The Cultured Traveller, June-August 2019 Issue 26

ISSUE 26 JUN-AUG 2019

SALVADOR DE BAHIA ANGKOR WAT • RAFFLES ISTANBUL • ISLAMORADA CHRISTIAN DIOR

@

THE V&A • GULF AIR’S FALCON GOLD CLASS • SERIFOS

HIGHLIGHTS JUN-AUG 2019 ISSUE 26

60 BRAZIL’S ORIGINAL METROPOLITAN HEART

For centuries, Brazil was the crown jewel in the Portuguese colonial empire and for more than two hundred years until 1763 SALVADOR DE BAHIA was its first city.

Alex Benasuli discovers that Brazil’s original capital beats to its own drum whilst embodying the fundamental elements of the nation’s heart and soul that make South America’s largest country such a seductive destination.

170 CHRISTIAN DIOR: DESIGNER OF DREAMS

Christian Dior is a giant of modern fashion. Since his first show in February 1947, the French fashion house has continued to impose its vision through elegant, architectural and endlessly feminine lines. Tracing the history and impact of the celebrated couturier, Adrian Gibson tours the V&A’s sell-out exhibition which runs until 1st September.

54 WIN A WEEKEND IN BEAUTIFUL VIENNA

Designed by celebrated French architect Jean Nouvel, SO/ VIENNA is undoubtedly the Austrian capital’s most stylish hospitality address. Win a three‑night stay in a SO Lofty suite in the heart of the beautiful Austrian capital, including breakfasts, welcome cocktails at BAR/Terre and a chef’s tasting dinner for two at Michelin-starred Das LOFT.

42 SINGAPORE’S NEW SUITE DREAMS

Perched on the 64th floor of I.M.Pei‑designed SWISSÔTEL THE STAMFORD, Nicholas Chrisostomou road‑tests one of the hotel’s new Crest Suites, which skillfully marry Swiss sophistication, precision and simplicity with deluxe facilities and 21st century technology.

Not to mention incredible sweeping vistas of Singapore.

32 MANAMA’S NEW HOSPITALITY ADDRESS

Hospitality guru Gordon Campbell Gray has a distinct knack for knowing exactly how to showcase the best of a destination.

Personally involved in all aspects of the creation, design and philosophy of every Campbell Gray property to date, the brand’s latest opening in the Bahraini capital further illustrates his skill for beautifully fusing culture and hospitality in a hotel setting.

Jun-Aug 2019 The Cultured Traveller 5

124

60

138

CONTENTS 8 EDITOR’S LETTER

54

10 CONTRIBUTORS 12 NEWSFLASH

We round-up the most notable cultural experiences and unmissable festivals happening around the world in the coming months, including MEADOWS IN THE MOUNTAINS in Bulgaria’s beautiful Rhodope mountains; China’s annual DUANWU JIÉ dragon boat festival; Austria’s colourful WORLD BODYPAINTING FESTIVAL; the bizarre WORLD WIFE-CARRYING CHAMPIONSHIPS in Finland; the RED BULL SOAPBOX RACE held at London’s Alexandra Palace; South Korea’s annual BORYEONG MUD FESTIVAL, and the grandfather of modern-day festival gatherings, GLASTONBURY.

24 REST YOUR HEAD

The Cultured Traveller cchecks into the coolest hotel in the Thai capital, SO/ BANGKOK; handsome SUNDY PRAIA lodge on a secluded Príncipe bay in West Africa; the super sophisticated MIDDLE HOUSE in Shanghai; ubercool BRANCO boutique hotel on the Greek party island of Mykonos; hippie-chic HABITAS cocooned in Tulum’s beachfront jungle; the slick

new W KUALA LUMPUR in the shadow of the Petronas Towers; and super luxe MOMBO CAMP on the northern tip of Chief’s Island in Botswana.

98 SUITE ENVY

Perched on a hill that rises high above the Bosphorus, RAFFLES ISTANBUL is a modern-day palace; a regal address where art, gastronomy and Turkish culture are interwoven. At the top of this 21st century eyrie, Joe Mortimer drinks in magnificent intercontinental vistas from the sumptuous surrounds of the CONTINENTS SUITE: the pinnacle of a luxury hotel from which sultans and CEOs can survey their city.

106 BOARDING PASS

Flying from its hub in Manama for almost seventy years, the national carrier of the Kingdom of Bahrain was the first commercial airline to be established in the Middle East, many decades before the likes of Emirates and Qatar Airways.

Nicholas Chrisostomou road tests GULF AIR’s new FALCON GOLD class, aboard one of the airline’s Boeing 787‑9 Dreamliners bound for Heathrow.

112 NO SHOES REQUIRED

Known as the “Village of Islands”

78

150

26

as well as the “Sport-Fishing Capital of the World”, ISLAMORADA spans fifteen miles and encompasses five different islands in the Florida Keys, at the most south easterly extremity of the United States. Alex Benasuli picks up the Overseas Highway, drives for ninety minutes south of Miami and finds himself in this exotic tropical island paradise.

124 SPOTLIGHT

Greece’s picturesque islands and islets form an inherent part of the nation’s culture and traditions, and every well-to-do Athenian makes for them during the summer months. Addicted to the wildness and beauty of the western Cycladic island of SERIFOS in the Aegean Sea, Nicholas Chrisostomou explains why he just can’t get enough of this Grecian gem.

138 TRAVELLER LOWDOWN Famed ANGKOR WAT draws more than two million visitors every year and is almost certainly Cambodia’s biggest tourist attraction. But mobbed by thousands every day of the year can make visiting the revered 12th century Buddhist monument hard work. So,

Nicholas Chrisostomou takes a different approach to tackling the world’s largest temple complex, on an Italian scooter no less!

150 TASTE & SIP REVIEW

From the coast of the Mediterranean to the plains and mountains of Anatolia, Turkish cuisine draws from an abundance of regional influences and thousands of years of history.

Where East meets West in the city of Istanbul, a cauldron of bubbling culinary creativity, Joe Mortimer discovers that one particular restaurant is giving traditional Turkish dining a modern makeover.

112 86

160 MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE

She’s been worshipped, mocked and vilified. She has delighted in causing controversy from the moment she became famous. She’s been written off more times than she’s changed her hair colour yet has outlasted most of her contemporaries, making records and breaking records. There’s a new MADONNA album on the way and opinion is divided. Paul Burston pays homage to a true pop survivor.

46

180 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

160

170

Jun-Aug 2019 The Cultured Traveller 7

From left to right: Angkor Wat; Raffles Istanbul; Salvador de Bahia; Princess Margaret wearing Christian Dior; Islamorada.

EDITOR’S LETTER

I

t would be remiss of me not to use this forum to highlight the terrible events which transpired in Sri Lanka on Easter Sunday, which prematurely ended the lives of more than 250 worshippers, tourists and their families, and obliterated the nation’s tourist industry upon which so many Sri Lankan people rely. In 1966 there were just 19k foreign tourist arrivals in Sri Lanka. Until recently, the tourism industry was worth almost USD 4.5 billion annually to the country’s economy. Without this income, which represented 5% of the country’s GDP, Sri Lanka faces island‑wide economic problems; many have already lost their jobs.

With cancellations overtaking bookings, some carriers have even discontinued the frequency of flights, and so every part of Sri Lanka’s hospitality industry is now suffering, from beach shacks and street hawkers to luxury hotels and even airlines. Colombo has been the hardest hit, invariably because the terrorist attacks mostly happened in the country’s capital.

I’ve been a fan of Sri Lanka and its overwhelming sense of serenity for many years and it’s no secret that I visit the island regularly. So it pains me to see the livelihoods of many Sri Lankan people being affected by a tragic turn of events which is out of their control.

Which is why now is the time to visit to Sri Lanka. Yes, now. Not only will you see the best of this beautiful island with its sublime beaches and perfect sunsets, but you will also meet its warm and genuinely welcoming people as they try to emerge from yet another national disaster.

Unfortunately, the events of Easter Sunday were too recent for us to feature Sri Lanka in this issue, but the island will be splashed across the pages of our Fifth Anniversary Edition out on 1st September.

In this our twenty-sixth issue, Alex Benasuli visits the colourful former capital of Brazil, Salvador de Bahia, with its gorgeous Portuguese colonial architecture (page60), and drives for ninety minutes south of Miami to the tropical island paradise of Islamorada (page112). Joe Mortimer lives like a sultan in the sprawling Continents Suite at Raffles Istanbul (page98). Tracing the history and impact of celebrated couturier Christian Dior, Adrian Gibson tours the V&A’s sell-out exhibition which has been extended until 1st September (page170). With a new Madonna album on the way, Paul Burston pays homage to a true pop survivor (page160). And I was lucky enough to visit revered temple complex Angkor Wat, on a Vespa, no less. (page138) Spare a thought for Sri Lanka and have a truly wonderful summer,

Nicholas Chrisostomou Publisher & Editor-in-Chief

ISSUU.COM/THECULTUREDTRAVELLER/DOCS • INSTAGRAM.COM/CULTUREDTRAVELLER • FACEBOOK.COM/THECULTUREDTRAVELLER • WWW.THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM SUBSCRIPTIONS SUBSCRIBE@THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM • ADVERTISING ADS@THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM • EDITORIAL WORDS@THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM 8 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

Luxurious Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Hamburg has become an icon of European grandeur. Since 1897 the elegant hotel welcomes guests from all over the world with refined style and timeless grace at the Inner Alster Lake in the heart of Hamburg.

156 luxuriously furnished guest rooms and suites combine international standards with local influences and exquisite materials. The culinary variety is outstanding, the hotel`s philosophy simple: service, service, service - genuine and authentic.

Neuer Jungfernstieg 9-14 | 20354 Hamburg, Germany | T +49 (0) 40 3494 0 | hamburg@fairmont.com | fairmont-hvj.de

CONTRIBUTORS JOE MORTIMER

SUITE ENVY

Joe Mortimer is a UK‑based writer and editor who specialises in luxury travel and high‑end hospitality. Joe has visited 60 countries and stayed in more than 100 luxury hotels and resorts, as well as having wined and dined in some of the best restaurants in the world. In between journeys, Joe Mortimer has interviewed high‑profile characters in the world of luxury including the chief executives and presidents of brands such as Lamborghini, LVMH, Hublot and Montblanc as well as legendary chefs including Pierre Gagnaire, Nobu Matsuhisa and Marco Pierre White.

ADRIAN GIBSON

STYLISH GLOBETROTTER Adrian worked as a professional fashion buyer for some of London’s leading department stores for more than two decades, including Selfridges, Harrods and Harvey Nichols. More recently Adrian has been working in the Middle East selecting designer threads for both Harvey Nichols and Bloomingdales in Dubai. An avid shopper, he enjoys nothing more than visiting stores, meeting designers and supporting new talent where ever and whenever he’s travelling the globe, as well as keeping a keen eye on the latest trends, both on the world’s most fashionable streets and online.

ALEX BENASULI

NO SHOES REQUIRED

Alex Benasuli has been traveling the world his whole life. Growing up in New York City, he would accompany his family every summer on visits to relatives in Spain, France and Germany. A successful two‑decade career in finance often took him to Brazil, Mexico, Turkey, Russia, India, Indonesia and all over the Far East. Today, as an avid yoga practitioner and part‑time teacher, Alex also has a keen appreciation for combining luxury highbrow urban travels with off the beaten track alternative destinations and experiences.

PAUL BURSTON

MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE Paul Burston’s books include critically‑acclaimed novels Shameless, Lovers & Losers, The Black Path and his latest psychological thriller The Closer I Get. His journalism has been published in numerous newspapers and magazines, including The Sunday Times, The Guardian and Time Out. A frequent contributor to TV and radio, he has also written and presented documentaries for Channel 4. Curator and host of award‑winning literary salon Polari at London’s Southbank Centre and founder of The Polari First Book Prize for new writing, Paul was born in Yorkshire, raised in South Wales and divides his time between London and Hastings.

10 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

DISTORTION

the whole thing in spectacular fashion, a two‑day weekend rave held at Copenhagen’s harbour (Distortion Ø).

Being such an eco‑friendly city, the street festivities are financed by partygoers purchasing a Gadearmbåndet street bracelet, so that the Distortion crew can properly clean up Copenhagen once the musical mayhem has ended.

This year’s line‑up includes talented London rapper, Nadia Rose and British DJ and music producer Mark Knight, who has played a pivotal role on the English house scene.

29 May – 2 June 2019 www.cphdistortion.dk

DENMARK Since 1998, Distortion has been pushing the limits of Copenhagen’s street life and party culture, attracting DJs from across the globe and seeing the city centre teeming with thousands of revellers for five days. More than twenty years on, Distortion is now a mammoth over‑the‑top party extravaganza that offers massive street parties during the day (think impromptu crowd surfing and street food aplenty), an intimate club festival exploring new music at night (Distortion Club) and, to round off

FESTIVAL OF SAINT-DENIS FRANCE This standout classical music festival is hosted inside the Basilica Saint‑Denis, a masterpiece of Gothic art, and is a good excuse to cross the périphérique and discover a delightful northern Parisian suburb. A main event annually in the French cultural calendar since 1968, the festival is organised by the city of Saint‑Denis under the auspices of the Île‑de‑ France region, the French Ministry of Culture and Communication, Le Centre des Monuments Nationaux 12 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

and Radio France, and has been established for more than fifty years.

International conductors and soloists perform side‑by‑side with prestigious Parisian orchestral acts plus some of the greatest artists on the international classical circuit. A highlight of the 2019 festival will undoubtedly be celebrated Montréal‑born singer‑songwriter Rufus Wainwright (pictured) performing his “Mother” programme, alongside his sister Martha. Specially designed for the Basilica and comprising pieces from Wainwright’s personal and family repertoire, this promises to be one of the most moving concerts of the festival.

3 June ‑ 3 July 2019 www.festival‑saint‑denis.com

MEADOWS IN THE MOUNTAINS BULGARIA Few places on the planet offer such an offbeat slice of unconventional community‑based collaborative action as Meadows in the Mountains festival, which takes place in an eerily beautiful space in the Rhodope mountains, which straddle the border between Bulgaria and Greece and provide the perfect setting and stunning vistas to tune out of everyday life and plug into some good, old‑

fashioned free‑spirited debauchery.

Meadows in the Mountains prides itself on its respect for and integration with the native community. Local inhabitants house attendees and the environmental policies are stricter than almost every other global gathering.

This is not a festival about global music superstars, but rather the wild and romantic atmosphere and an overall sense of escapism that comes as much from revellers as from the diverse range of musicians and artists performing across four stages, each of which has its own, distinct feel.

6‑9 June 2019 www.meadowsinthemountains.com

DUANWU JIÉ

protest against the Qin state’s invasion of his patch, Chu. The dismayed common people took to their boats and tried to keep the fish and evil spirits from Qu by splashing their oars and beating drums. Qin eventually conquered all its rival states and created China, but the patriotic poet is nonetheless honoured. If you happen to be in Beijing on 7 June, Xiadu Park hosts the city’s biggest celebration, with Beijing university’s students going head‑to‑ head in an annual inter‑university race.

7 June 2019

CHINA The sight of China’s rivers filling with colourful crafts decked out to look like dragons ‑ from their fearsome snouts to their scaly tails ‑ can only mean one thing: the annual dragon boat festival. This colourful yearly event may be a lot of fun, but the festival’s roots lie in tragedy, since it commemorates Qu Yuan, a revered humanitarian politician, who drowned himself in the Miluo River in 278BC to

KNYSNA OYSTER FESTIVAL SOUTH AFRICA One of the rainbow nation’s most popular annual lifestyle and sporting gatherings, the Knysna Oyster Festival is a 10‑day family‑ orientated event aimed at foodies and sports lovers, held in the heart of the Garden Route. Oyster eating, oyster shucking, oyster farm tours, oyster recipe challenges and gourmet oyster‑ themed dinners happen throughout the festival, alongside wine and champagne tastings aplenty. Attracting more than 70,000 visitors annually, oyster lovers

slurp and swallow their way through more than 200,000 oysters at a few dozen dedicated venues which serve the delectable molluscs au naturel or cooked in a variety of creative ways.

Meanwhile, the festival hosts two top‑ notch competitive sporting events: the two‑day family Knysna Cycle Tour on 22 & 23 June (http://knysnacycle.co.za) and the Knysna Forest Marathon (www.knysnamarathonclub.com), both of which are booked‑up months in advance due to their immense popularity. For aspiring marathon runners, there’s also a 5 km fun run on 29 June!

21‑30 June 2019 www.oysterfestival.co.za

RATH YATRA INDIA

GLASTONBURY U.K. The grandfather of modern‑day festival gatherings, Glastonbury launched in 1970 and is now more of a settlement than a music fest. Twice the size of Bath and more akin to five or six festivals rolled into one, Glastonbury’s more like a refugee camp for society’s arty and most liberal than anything you’ll see elsewhere during Blighty’s packed summer season. Such breadth offers something for pretty much everyone, attracting a vast and diverse selection of people of around 150,000, ranging from middle‑ aged backpackers with portable deckchairs, boozy jocks stripping‑off at the first sight of sunshine, spiritualists and yoga teachers, dedicated hippies, yuppies, hipsters and fashionistas.

Since Glastonbury is essentially a music festival above all else, unsurprisingly there’s an awful lot of musical talent to check out. This year’s line‑up is headlined by none other than Janet Jackson, Kylie, Stormzy and The Cure, plus many more acts to be announced across the festival’s one hundred stages.

26‑30 June 2019 www.glastonburyfestivals.co.uk 14 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

Rath Yatra is one of India’s largest and most important Hindu festivals, drawing more than a million pilgrims and devotees to the streets of Puri. Over the years, poets, saints and scriptures have consistently praised the good fortune associated with attending this “festival of the chariots”, since it is one of the only times annually that the deities leave the temple of Jagannath and allow non‑Hindus and visitors to see them.

The three figurines that make the trip are Jagannath (considered to be the lord of the universe and an incarnation of Vishnu ‑ the god of preservation); his older brother Balabhadra, and their sister Subhadra. They travel more than a mile in elaborate wooden chariots from the Jagannath Temple to the Gundicha Temple where they remain for nine days. During the loud procession, pilgrims vie for even a glimpse of the gods since they’re associated with extreme good fortune and the righting of wrongs.

4 July 2019 www.rathyatra.org

WORLD WIFECARRYING CHAMPIONSHOPS FINLAND This bizarre annual competition, which has been running for more than twenty‑five years, has its roots in the tribal practice of pillaging neighbouring villages for womenfolk.

Apparently, a robber by the name of Rosvo‑Ronkainen was particularly keen on the practice of thieving other people’s wives in the late 1800’s. What started as a light‑hearted attraction in the small Finnish town of Sonkajärvi has become a world‑recognised event, which sees forty pairs from seven countries fight to complete a 253.5 metre‑course in the fastest time. The track is made up of sand, grass and various obstacles, including two log hurdles plus a one‑ metre deep‑water obstacle. If the wife weighs less than 49 kilos, she must wear a rucksack to reach this minimum weight. Various techniques are employed to carry the wife, the most popular being the “Estonian” style, where the crash helmet‑wearing wife is dangling upside down on the man’s back!

5‑6 July 2019 www.eukonkanto.fi/en

RED BULL SOAPBOX RACE

of enthused fans. This unique, non‑ motorised racing event challenges both experienced racers and amateurs alike to design and build outrageous dream machines and compete against the clock. Over the years previous entries have included a piano, a giant baby carriage, a rodeo clown, a massive corn on the cob, a jail cell and even the Golden Gate Bridge. At this summer’s Red Bull Soapbox Race at London’s Alexandra Palace, teams will be judged on speed, creativity and showmanship. This assumes, of course, that they make it to the finish line!

7 July 2019 https://soapboxrace.redbull.com

U.K. A unique no‑holds‑ barred downhill race spectacle, in which drivers use only gravity and courage as fuel (plus perhaps a certain energy drink), Red Bull has held more than 100 soapbox races around the world since the first took place in Brussels in 2000. Now an international event staged everywhere from Australia to Italy, amateur drivers race homemade engine‑less vehicles in a colourful downhill battle in front of thousands

WORLD BODYPAINTING FESTIVAL AUSTRIA One of the most colourful and unusual festivals you are ever likely to see, the World Bodypainting Festival has been celebrating visual culture and music and wowing audiences for more than twenty years. From make‑ up to tattoos, the human body has been used as a canvas by people all over the world for thousands of years, with

SÓNAR SPAIN Officially billed as a festival of progressive music and multimedia art, music is by far the main focus of this annual, award‑winning music extravaganza held in Barcelona, which began in 1994 as a networking opportunity for the music industry.

Sónar now attracts 80,000 lovers of electronica every year, who visit the Catalan capital to worship cutting‑edge artists and DJs hailing from all corners of the globe and gather in the sunny Spain for three days and nights of avant‑garde 16 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

almost every culture in history painting or adorning themselves in some form of celebration or ritual. Although the name divulges basically what goes on, there is far more to this visual treasure trove than you might think, with artists and models from over 40 different countries doing their best to shock and entertain visitors. Happening over the course of a week in the Austrian city of Klagenfurt, on the eastern shore of Lake Wörthersee, the World Bodypainting Festival has grown into the foremost and most well‑ known event of its type on the planet.

7‑13 July 2019 www.bodypainting‑festival.com

music and spectacular multimedia art exhibitions. Sónar features an eclectic mix of music, technology and art, divided into two parts: Sónar by Day, complete with concerts, workshops and exhibitions; and the main event ‑ Sónar

by Night ‑ which consists of a series of extraordinary spectacles held in various locations throughout Barcelona.

Headlining the Saturday night are François Kervorkian, Danny Krivit and Joe Claussell ‑ collectively known as legendary New York clubbing brand Body & Soul ‑ playing a 6‑hour set.

18‑20 July 2019 www.sonar.es/en/2019

Welcome to Raffles Maldives Meradhoo A new paradise, your Marine Butler awaits you‌ Legendary Service since 1887

BORYEONG MUD FESTIVAL

THE EDINBURGH FESTIVAL FRINGE SCOTLAND

SOUTH KOREA

South Korea’s most popular annual festival attracts tens of thousands to pools, slides and wrestling arenas filled with mud!

Originally conceived as a marketing tool for Boryeong mud cosmetics in 1998, over time the festival has become a vastly popular attraction for visitors and locals alike. Mud rich in minerals, especially germanium and bentonite, which is particularly beneficial to the skin, is taken from the Boryeong mud flats (200 kilometres south of Seoul) and driven to the Daecheon beach area. Here it is essentially turned into a giant mud wonderland so visitors can enjoy mud wrestling, mud sliding and even swim in a mammoth mud bath. This incredibly popular festival is many South Koreans’ ultimate summer destination, complete with music and fireworks in the evenings to keep the party going.

19‑28 July 2019 www.mudfestival.or.kr

MAINE LOBSTER FESTIVAL U.S.A.

Two‑hours’ drive from Portland and four from Boston, this annual non‑profit celebration of all‑things lobster is held in the classic American working harbour town of Rockland, in the nation’s easternmost state of New England.

What began more than seventy years ago as an initiative to revive local Midcoast Maine marine communities, is today an internationally recognised celebration of local seafood. This family‑orientated gathering comprises a parade; live music; a 10km road race; arts and crafts; entertainers; cooking contests; fairground rides and local Maine craftsmen, not to mention the consumption of more than 20,000lbs of cooked lobster.

Add in clams, calamari, scallops and haddock ‑ all freshly sourced from the Atlantic Ocean ‑ and Maine Lobster Festival is without doubt a marine crustacean‑lovers dream!

31 July ‑ 4 August 2019 www.mainelobsterfestival.com

BOARDMASTERS U.S.A. Born in 1981, Boardmasters is a five‑day grassroots outdoor summertime surfing and music fest, that takes place along the Cornish coastline in the UK’s premiere surfing mecca of Fistral Beach and Watergate Bay. Offering music‑led parties that continue until late night plus beautiful beaches upon which to relax and recover 18 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

during the day in preparation for the next evening’s festivities, as well as all the partying, Boardmasters celebrates the region’s beloved watersport with numerous professional surfing competitions. Meanwhile, amateurs and

Sprawling and diverse with a hefty dose of crazy, “The Fringe” began in 1947 when eight alternative theatre companies arrived uninvited and proceeded to perform on the edges of the inaugural Edinburgh International Festival, which was effectively the main event. The following year, more groups arrived to perform, again uninvited.

They were documented by playwright Robert Kemp, as performing “round the fringe of the official festival” which is how the Fringe got its name. More than seven decades later, the world’s largest arts festival is still true to its founding spirit and is basically open to anyone and everyone who can afford to get themselves to the diverse Scottish capital in August. The Fringe really is a bit of everything, so expect to see student theatre companies and complete novices next to TV celebs and seasoned pros, all vying for the crowds’ affections.

2‑26 August 2019 www.edfringe.com

even non‑surfers come out to enjoy the diverse beachside fun. Since this year’s Boardmasters will be headlined

by English indie rock band Florence + The Machine, plus grime music pioneer, celebrated rapper, recording artist and record producer Dizzee Rascal, expect the festival to be a complete sell out and the parties more raucous than ever.

This is a part of the British Isles that plays hard and parties even harder!

7‑11 August 2019 www.boardmasters.co.uk

BRISTOL INTL BALLOON FESTIVAL U.K. Billed as “Four Days of Free Family Fun”, Bristol’s annual hot air balloon extravaganza takes place in the delightful surroundings of Ashton Court Estate, which was once the gracious home of the Smyth family and is now a historic 850‑acre park, just 10 minutes from the city centre in beautiful South West England. North Somerset’s annual hot air balloon extravaganza is Europe’s largest yearly meet for ballooning

enthusiasts, attracting more than 150 hot air balloons from across the globe.

Witnessing a mass ascent of balloons in all shapes and sizes, lifting into the sky at once and instantly filling it with glorious colours, is truly a spectacular sight to behold. Not to be missed is the festival’s famous “Night Glow” on Saturday evening 10th August, which sees the balloons glowing to music after the sun has set, followed by a dazzling fireworks display. A variety of entertainment, arena events and a giant fairground complete the weekend’s carnival‑like feel.

8‑11 August 2018 www.bristolballoonfiesta.co.uk

MOUNT HAGEN CULTURAL SHOW

the airport in Mount Hagen ‑ and with more than one hundred tribes in attendance, the concept of this peaceful event is pretty simple: each tribe ‑ clad in elaborate body paint, extravagant colourful headdresses, and jewellery fashioned from bones, tusks and shells ‑ shares their cultural traditions through costume, dancing and music, and performs a primal dance based on its own unique legend. Quite simply, the winning performance is the one which receives the most applause and biggest reaction from the crowd.

17‑18 August 2019 www.papuanewguinea.travel

PAPUA NEW GUINEA Taking place in the large fertile Wahgi Valley in the Western Highlands Province of central mainland Papua New Guinea, and named after an old eroded volcano, every year since 1964 during the third weekend of August, the city of Mount Hagen has hosted one of the largest gatherings (known locally as “sing‑sings”) in the country.

Staged at Kagamuga Show Ground ‑ conveniently located adjacent to

BURNING MAN U.S.A. For one week every year, Nevada’s unforgiving Black Rock Desert of Gerlach springs to life when 65,000+ revellers come together for Burning Man, the largest outdoor arts festival in North America and one of one of the most iconic festivals on the planet. Described as the ultimate culmination of community, art, self‑expression and self‑reliance, participants join in the effort to co‑ create Black Rock City, a temporary metropolis dedicated to art and 20 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

togetherness. The festival celebrates alternative lifestyles through music, art and the unique comradery that develops during the gathering. The vision is to “bring experiences to people in grand, awe‑inspiring and joyful ways that lift the human spirit, address social problems and inspire a sense of culture, community and personal engagement.” The event’s name comes from the ritual burning of a wooden effigy, which occurs on the last Saturday night of the festival, which this year will be 1st September 2019.

25 August ‑ 2 September 2019 www.burningman.org

BRISTOL INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FIESTA

Attracting hundreds of hot air balloons from across the globe, a mass of balloons ascents into the skies above Ashton Court Estate in South West England 8-11 August 2019 www.bristolballoonďŹ esta.co.uk

Rest Your Head

SHANGHAI • MALLORCA • SÃO TOMÉ & PRÍNCIPE • MANAMA • BANGKOK • LISBON CHICAGO • SINGAPORE • TULUM • CHIEF’S ISLAND • MYKONOS • KUALA LUMPUR

VERRIDE PALÁCIO SANTA CATARINA LISBON, PORTUGAL

SHANGHAI, CHINA THE MIDDLE HOUSE Shanghai is not short of top-end hotels.

On the contrary, deluxe properties seem to be popping-up in China’s biggest city at breakneck speed. Just last year saw stunning Amanyangyun, health and wellness-driven Anandi Hotel & Spa, and Las Vegas’ famous Bellagio all open in Shanghai, the latter minus the casino but replete with all the glitz of its American namesake.

Part of the mixed-use Dazhongli development in the heart of Shanghai’s popular Jing’an district, the newest addition to Swire Hotels’ hospitality portfolio and the fourth property courtesy of superstylish House Collective, The Middle House was inspired by the city’s rich heritage of craftsmanship and culture and comprises two towers linked below ground by a warren of beautifully designed and extraordinarily well executed leisure facilities.

At the hands of renowned Italian designer and architect Piero Lissoni, contemporary design has been skilfully blended with traditional Asian elements in 111 guest studios, ranging in size from 60-100 square metres, plus 102 serviced apartments. Whilst the tone throughout the studios and residences is largely dark wood, bold lines and clean silhouettes prevail by way of custom furniture inspired by traditional Chinese pieces, transparent room dividers and original Chinese artwork displayed alongside rich woods and crisp linens. Clear glass walls which divide the living space from the huge shower and stand-alone bath open up the rooms. All feature large walk-in closets. The Cultured Traveller particularly liked the oversized tassel, hanging over one of the bedside tables, to call for service. Whilst the result is a chic blend of Shanghainese decor and an utterly Italian approach to interiors - offering guests a sensory respite from the pulsating metropolis outside and a reliable oasis ►

Jun-Aug 2019 The Cultured Traveller 27

SHANGHAI, CHINA of calm in one of the world’s busiest cities - the property’s overall style is undoubtedly sealed by its outstanding art collection.

Curated by Alison Pickett - who is responsible for all the House Collective’s art-centric hotel interiors - the theme at The Middle House is ‘I Dream of China’, which has been brought to life via more than 650 cutting-edge pieces liberally scattered throughout the property: from an extraordinary Chinese robe covered in 12,000 ceramic butterflies which hangs in the lobby, to striking paintings by Richard Winkworth in Café Gray Deluxe, overlooking buzzing Nanjing West Road, where guests can indulge in New York¬-based chef Gray Kunz’s signature mix of modern European cuisine made with Asian ingredients.

Elsewhere within the hotel, there are two further restaurants for guests to feast in: homely Italian Frasca - where classic Italian sharing dishes prevail - and modern Chinese restaurant, Sui Tang Li, which fuses contemporary Chinese cuisine with traditional elements in both the restaurant’s design and food. Both Frasca and Sui Tang Li are exceptionally good stand-alone restaurants.

The Middle House’s seemingly immaculate design aesthetic flows into the hotel’s tranquil basement, deep below the towers, where you will find a huge subterranean swimming pool oasis, sauna, steam rooms, gym, yoga studio, juice bar and HYPOXI room, plus the hotel’s massive Mi Xun Spa where a signature massage or a Ling Lian facial will almost certainly restore your equilibrium after a long flight.

Miles away from the real world, it wouldn’t be difficult to spend an entire day in the serene bowels of The Middle House, such is the divine design of the space and seamless flow of its facilities. Saying that, moving around the entire place is somewhat akin to being in hospitality heaven. www.themiddlehousehotel.com

28 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

STUDIO 90 THE MIDDLE HOUSE

MALLORCA, SPAIN 1902 TOWNHOUSE The largest of the Balearics in the Mediterranean, you don’t have to dig too deep to discover that the old-school island of Mallorca boasts much more than beautiful weather and gorgeous beaches. A rich history, ruggedly dramatic interior landscapes, delicious fare and excellent local wines lend Mallorca a unique quality, complete with a picturesque coastline and sensational vistas at every turn.

Pristine coves sparkle with crystal waters. Historic towns and medieval villages stand side-by-side with glamorous seaside resorts and a charismatic capital presided over by a glorious Gothic cathedral. Culture and nature abound.

And a variety of accommodation options cater to every class of traveller, ranging from traditional Spanish fincas to wellness retreats and five-star hotels to design-savvy boutique properties.

Located in the island’s craggy north-west corner and set in a beautiful valley studded with citrus trees, Sóller is a traditional Majorcan town close to the sea, embraced by mountains and surrounded by woodland. It is impossible not to wake up in Sóller and smell the oranges, since the whole area is quite literally filled with trees laden with citrus fruits.

40 minutes’ drive from Palma airport and a five-minute stroll from Sóller’s main square, 1902 Townhouse is an elegant 20th-century townhouse that has been lovingly refurbished by its expat London owners to create a chic, clean and contemporary six-bedroom boutique property. Can Prunera Museu Modernista, located within an old art nouveau mansion built in the early 20th century, is also a few minutes’ walk away.

Thanks to gracious hosts Pete Holman and Martin Grant, guests at 1902 uniquely enjoy a warm and personal service, with all requests met with genuine care and attention.

Generously proportioned rooms are easy on the eye with Mediterranean textiles, neutral walls and furniture crafted by local artisans punctuated by textured feature wallpaper panels and modern chandeliers. King-sized beds are dressed with fine pillows and deep duvets, while spacious bathrooms boast twin sinks and walk-in rain showers.

Nespresso machines, smart TVs, air-con and a superb three-course breakfast menu fulfil the needs of even the most discerning modern-day traveller. www.hotel1902soller.com

30 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

SÃO TOMÉ AND PRÍNCIPE SUNDY PRAIA

As it recovers from a dark history and its native wildlife thrives, sustainable tourism is transforming the twin West African islands of São Tomé and Príncipe, which together form one of the world’s smallest nations.

Quite honestly, it is something of a miracle that these two stunning equatorial islands, which lie 210 km off the coast of West Africa, have remained under the tourist radar for quite so long. Part of the reason that these former Portuguese colonies have been overlooked is that they have lacked the kind of properties to attract all but the most adventurous traveller.

Then, eight years ago, tech billionaire Mark Shuttleworth visited Príncipe, the smaller and quieter of the two islands but still a riot of dense jungle and volcanic rock. Shuttleworth fell in love with the place and its people, bought the island and embarked upon a dynamic investment programme in tandem with an enthusiastic president. The result is a harnessing of sustainable tourism to reinvigorate Príncipe’s ailing economy, provide employment and protect the island’s fragile ecosystem. The island’s dark history of slavery was completely flipped. Plantations that once exploited Angolans and Cape Verdeans were transformed into hotels, organic farms and small-scale co-operatives.

Fashioned by French architect Didier Lefort and located on a secluded Príncipe bay, handsome Sundy Praia lodge consists of 15 seriously smart and spacious tented villas, beautifully designed and elegantly furnished. Each boasts a mammoth stone bath standing in a windowed alcove; a huge bed offering stunning vistas of the beach and sea through floor-to-ceiling windows, and a private pool on a sprawling timber wooden deck. Toiletries, spa products and even mini-bar snacks are made using organic and sustainable local ingredients. Everything is cocooned using indigenous plants, soaring bamboos and massive trees populated by monkeys and 28 bird species found nowhere else on earth. The oldest of three oceanic volcanic islands in the Gulf of Guinea, the whole of Príncipe was declared a UNESCO biosphere in 2012 since it’s an area of great interest for the conservation of global biological diversity. So, if you are craving a Galapagos-like adventure in Africa, a visit to Sundy Praia on Príncipe will surely not disappoint. www.sundyprincipe.com

MANAMA, BAHRAIN THE MERCHANT HOUSE Hospitality guru and former Hotelier of the Year, Gordon Campbell Gray, has a distinct knack for knowing exactly how to showcase the best of a destination in properties he conceptualises and develops from scratch. This is almost certainly the result of Campbell Gray’s natural sense of style and fine eye for design, both of which seem attuned to the needs of discerning 21st century travellers, who care less for gimmicks and more for quality, functionality and good design.

A dedicated art lover and natural taste maker, Campbell Gray’s abhorration of needless excess is renowned and comes across in every hotel he touches. Personally involved in every aspect of the creation, design and philosophy of each Campbell Gray property to date, the brand’s latest opening in the Bahraini city of Manama further illustrates his skill for beautifully fusing culture and hospitality in a hotel setting.

There is nothing quite like staying at a Campbell Gray property and this is evident from the moment The Cultured Traveller steps into the arrivals hall at Bahrain airport to be met by a smartly suited ambassador for The Merchant House. Moments later, a gleaming dark blue Maserati Quattroporte - branded with The Merchant House logo - is whisking The Cultured Traveller in rich leather-clad luxury towards Manama’s financial district.

Located next to the vibrant Bab el-Bahrain souk, close to the Old Customs House, the opening of the Kingdom’s first five-star deluxe boutique property earlier this year comes at a time when downtown Manama is being revived and a new generation of Bahrainis are looking for cool places to socialise. Nowhere is this more evident than The Merchant’s House rooftop bar and restaurant, Indigo, which just a few months after opening is already attracting the city’s movers and shakers on a regular basis and has become the go-to gathering spot for Bahrain’s most cultured set.

Helmed by former Nobu Shoreditch chef Rob Shipman, a broad menu of classic dishes, Mediterranean fare and Asian-fusion offerings is universally executed with panache and ►

32 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

CORNER SUITE THE MERCHANT HOUSE

MANAMA, BAHRAIN delivered to tables by a well-trained team. Slick and friendly service is a hallmark of Campbell Gray Hotels which hasn’t been overlooked in Bahrain. The comprehensive breakfast menu includes Eggs Shakshouka which is not an easy dish to pull off to such perfection. The rooftop also features a small 24-hour gym, glass-sided lap pool and sun terrace - all perfectly formed and beautifully executed.

Downstairs, 46 suites across seven floors are separated by wide corridors hung with wonderful original artworks that are lit like a gallery, making walking to one’s suite an intense visual pleasure.

Each suite features an open-plan kitchenette and dining area, as well as a sitting room designed to appeal to both business and leisure travellers alike. Jura coffee machines are standard in even the entry level rooms of Campbell Gray hotels and guests are furnished with jugs of fresh milk upon request. Beds are dressed in the finest linens. Bathrooms are ergonomically designed and feature huge walk-in showers. It’s usually impossible to fault the design of a Campbell Gray room and The Merchant House’s suites are no exception.

A bijou onsite spa with a pair of treatment rooms restores weary travellers to a state of equilibrium using the finest aromatherapy oils and organic skincare products.

On the mezzanine level, a carefully curated collection of hundreds of books lines the walls of the library, divided by armchairs which beg to be sat in and more artwork adorning the walls, including revered pieces by Chagall and Matisse.

The ground floor is home to a double-height rock-star lobby, reception area and café, its walls covered with huge statement works which set the tone for the entire, super-stylish property.

Dropping anchor at The Merchant House, even for just one night, is so much more than staying at a hotel. It’s like checking into a lovingly curated design-led art installation, with a sumptuous bed thrown in for good measure. If you can swing through Bahrain to experience it - do! www.campbellgrayhotels.com

Jun-Aug 2019 The Cultured Traveller 35

BANGKOK, THAILAND SO/ BANGKOK In a hot and hectic city like Bangkok, staying in a wellorganised centrally-located hotel, with slick service, spacious lodgings and multiple dining options, is a must. Otherwise, you stand little chance of properly experiencing the city and surviving the day-meets-night madness in one piece!

SO/ Bangkok is the perfect place to put down your cases for a long weekend immersion in the Thai capital, perfectly juxtaposing luxury facilities with modern conveniences and attentive yet unobtrusive service, all seamlessly delivered in one purpose-built fun-loving hospitality tower.

Complete with a superb onsite spa, sophisticated fine-dining restaurant and a happening rooftop bar, SO/ Bangkok quite literally has it all.

When staying at SO/ Bangkok the experience starts at BKK airport, where one of the hotel’s leather-lined BMW 5-Series saloons or long wheel base Mini Clubmans whisk guests in air-conditioned comfort through the teeming Bangkok streets to their slick home-away-from-home.

Arriving at one’s hotel relaxed and unstressed is undoubtedly the secret to tackling the Thai capital head-on and making the most of your visit.

Located in a prime position on the corner of Sathorn and Rama IV Roads, on arrival at the hotel, suite guests and VIPs are whisked directly to the sophisticated 25th floor Christian Lacroix-designed “Club Signature” executive lounge to check-in at leisure over a refreshing cocktail. Here, the hotel’s premium guests enjoy complimentary à la carte breakfast, high tea, evening cocktails and snacks every day, in peaceful and refined surroundings.

The hotel’s 237 themed guest rooms and suites have been thoughtfully designed around the natural elements of metal, wood, earth and water. Since each was conceptualised by a different artist, the design features vary between all four, providing guests with differing stay experiences depending upon their chosen theme. Irrespective, all rooms feature dramatic floor-to-ceiling windows opening out to expansive park or city views, over-sized bathtubs, walk-in showers, huge beds and every creature comfort one needs to handle a city as vibrant as Bangkok. If your budget permits, book a spacious SO Suite on a high floor to luxuriate in the space, entertain guests in the separate lounge and gaze upon the twinkling city below.

Whether visiting Bangkok on business or pleasure, no visit to Thailand is complete without a professional Thai massage, to either relax you after a long flight or soothe ►

Jun-Aug 2019 The Cultured Traveller 37

BANGKOK, THAILAND overworked muscles after a tough work-out.

Inspired by the Southeast Asian myth of the Himmapan Forest - said to be located below the Buddhist heavens in the Himalayas and invisible to the eyes of mortals who can never approach or enter - the hotel’s SoSPA on the 10th floor is a veritable urban retreat from non-stop metropolitan life, and the perfect place to take a few hours out to rebalance and cleanse your mind, body and spirit.

On the same level, saunas, steam rooms, a well-equipped gym boasting views towards Lumpini Park, a yoga studio, 32-metre infinity pool complete with rows of sun loungers and a large lawned “Solarium” garden complete the luxury leisure facilities afforded to guests staying at SO/ Bangkok. And once a month international DJs land on the 10th floor to ramp up the volume for the hotel’s legendary 8-hour SO Pool parties, providing an uber-chic music-led gathering place for locals and visitors alike.

Gourmands are as well catered for as health enthusiasts at SO/ Bangkok, with a range of F&B venues to suit every palette. On street level, a high-end coffee bar churns out some of the best lattés in the city, whilst gourmet chocolatier “Chocolab” produces decadent treats for guests to indulge in. You can even sign up for a chocolate cooking class and make your own truffles to take home.

Named after the restaurant’s French centrepiece Molteni oven, 7th floor Red Oven is set out like a street food market and is open all day from 6.30am daily, serving everything from local fare and regional Asian dishes to fresh seafood, Japanese robata-style grilled meats and excellent sushi.

Characterised by moody lighting and modern fine dining, Park Society on the 29th floor is a destination venue for a celebratory meal or a romantic rendezvous over delectable cuisine.

Crowning the property is HI-SO, the hotel’s jumping split-level rooftop bar, which boasts spectacular views over Lumpini Park towards the Bangkok cityscape beyond. The views from HI-SO never tire and it’s the perfect meeting place to start, end or spend the entire night.

With so much to see, do, eat and drink at super-stylish SO/ Bangkok, guests are invariably spoilt for choice, making a return visit virtually unavoidable. www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

38 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

SO LOFTY SUITE SO/ BANGKOK

CHICAGO, U.S.A. THE VICEROY Located in Chicago’s Gold Coast tree-lined neighbourhood with its streets of brownstones, and built on the site of the former 1920s Cedar Hotel, The Viceroy boasts a distinctive architectural twist in that its marries the carefully preserved reconstructed brick and terracotta façade of the old hotel with a gleaming new 18-floor pleated glass tower. In a city which is famed for its bold architecture and a skyline punctuated by skyscrapers, The Viceroy is a fittingly cool architectural statement on the outside which doesn’t disappoint on the inside.

Guests are greeted by a soaring marble-floored lobby dominated by an enormous blue poetry wall filled with quotations by Marcel Proust. This imposing and impressive space, known as The Library, is just a taste of things to come throughout the 180-room property, which is crowned by a huge penthouse suite, a top floor cocktail lounge and a rooftop pool open during the warmer months.

Bedrooms are bedecked in gold wallpaper, rich velvety curtains and mid-century-modern furniture and punctuated by retro touches and Art Moderne flourishes. Bathrooms are spacious with two sinks, deep tubs and separate glassenclosed showers laden with Natura Bissé body products and ROIL hair care treatments. Rooms on higher floors offers amazing views of the surrounding cityscape. Pets are welcome for 50 Dollars per night but are limited to two per room!

Elsewhere in this sleek urban haven you will find yoga and meditation classes plus an opulent all-day-dining restaurant which routinely offers seasonal dishes courtesy of celebrated Michelin-starred chef Lee Wolen. There is even a Tesla to whizz guests round the neighbourhood in eco-friendly style. www.viceroyhotelsandresorts.com

40 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

LISBON, PORTUGAL VERRIDE PALÁCIO SANTA CATARINA Somewhat stealthily, in recent years Lisbon has emerged as a must visit weekend destination at the top of many a discerning traveller’s list, the city’s charismatic mix of Baroque and 19th-century buildings and scenic bay forming a large part of the Portuguese capital’s allure.

Located in the city’s hipster Chiado quarter and straddling two distinct districts from its perch on the crest of hilltop Santa Catarina, famous for its views over Lisbon’s red roofs and the Atlantic, handsome painstakingly restored fourstorey 18th-century Verride Palace houses 18 luxe rooms (including two sumptuous suites), all lavishly adorned with original rococo stucco work and fine furnishings, wrapped in a muted palate of light browns and greys and lined with raw linens and pale silks.

In skilfully and meticulously restoring the palace’s Pombalino interiors, architect Teresa Nunes da Ponte walked a fine line between retaining the ancient but still beautiful bones of the building, whilst injecting a sophisticated yet edgy modernity. The result is truly breathtaking and nothing short of a visual treat. Sumptuous oversized beds are dressed in 800-thread-count Egyptian cotton sheets. Bathrooms are a minimalist’s dream executed in marble and limestone, apart from the one in the grand Queen’s Suite, where hand-painted tiles surround a stark, white oversized oval tub. Original coffered wooden ceilings and Portuguese and Greek marble in the public spaces have all been lovingly restored. And a graceful, spiral wrought iron staircase twirls upwards throughout the building’s old limestone walls, linking all floors of this delightful revitalised palace. Two restaurants complete Verride’s palatial offering with breakfast served poolside as Lisbon wakes below you. If sleeping like royalty and dining like a king appeals, you best stay at Verride. www.verridesc.pt

SINGAPORE SWISSÔTEL THE STAMFORD Despite Vegas-like behemoth Marina Bay Sands somewhat hogging Singapore’s hospitality limelight, I.M.Pei-designed Swissôtel The Stamford remains one of the city’s most desirable addresses for its incredible views, excellent facilities, superb location and easy access to Singapore’s stores and eateries. And following a recent top-to-bottom refurb of its 1,252 rooms and suites spread over 73 floors, the Stamford offers some of the best value and most spacious rooms in town: entry level Premier rooms are a very respectable 40 square metres of beautifully functional space, complete with stunning city views from private balconies that really instil a sense of being in Singapore.

Located at City Hall MRT station - with direct links to the East-West and North-South lines, which will take you almost anywhere in Singapore - makes staying at the Stamford the ideal choice for a first time visitor who wants to get around quickly and see as much as possible.

Pick-up a local SIM for SGD 15 in the shopping mall under the hotel and you’re good to go!

Perched on levels 64 and 66 of the Stamford, The Cultured Traveller road-tested one of the hotel’s 26 redesigned Crest Suites, which skilfully marry Swiss sophistication, precision and simplicity with deluxe facilities, 21stcentury technologies and contemporary hospitality touches. Replete with inimitable sweeping panoramic vistas of Singapore Bay towards Gardens By The Bay and the Singapore Strait beyond, make these Crest Suites some of the most desirable and well-designed lodgings in the city, and the perfect base from which to explore. The views alone from a Crest Suite are quite literally breathtaking.

Feeling very much like a chic city-centre apartment, every Crest Suite boasts separate living and sleeping rooms characterised and unified by the liberal use of woods imparting a sense of warmth throughout.

In the spacious living room, an oversized modular sofa, large ergonomic desk, various bijou side tables and a 65-inch television all function ►

42 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

CREST SUITE SWISSÔTEL THE STAMFORD

SINGAPORE efficiently and make lounging and working in the space an utter delight. A variety of beautiful detailing throughout the rooms, channelling a Swiss aesthetic of innovation and simplicity, lend an air of restrained sophistication to the entire space. The solid wood flooring includes hexagonal inserts reminiscent of a Swiss lodge.

Subtle references to the Swiss cross are apparent in stitchings, book shelves, robe hooks, door pulls and wall details. Even the rugs echo the timber flooring in their design. Contemporary artwork subtly weaves Singaporean and Swiss subjects into a continuous narrative. The Swiss home-away-from-home aesthetic is completed by the liberal use of vases, accessories and books carefully placed on the shelves of floor-to-ceiling bookcases which fill an entire wall of each room.

Next door in the generous bedroom, a large armchair begs to be sat in and one of the bedside tables appears to be a modern take on a Swiss life-saving brandy barrel. Everything is controlled by easy-to-use buttons on either side of the bed which operate the curtains, lights and airflow. Another 65-inch screen directly facing the bed makes spending a night under the duvet watching a movie a very tempting prospect.

Separated from the bedroom by a glass partition, guests can luxuriate in a deep soaking tub while peering out towards Singapore’s skyline. A walk-in shower, his and hers sinks and luxe fixtures by Laufen complete the ample bathroom. Plus there is a guest half bath in the suite’s entrance foyer.

On the 65th floor, guests staying in Crest Suites are afforded entry to a private gym and access to the exclusive “Living Room” for complimentary breakfast, all day soft drinks, evening bites and wines, the latter being just what the doctor ordered after a busy day pounding Singapore’s streets!

For a suite stay at a sweet price in almost certainly the best location in Singapore, the Stamford’s Crest Suites are hard to beat on numerous levels and have undoubtedly injected I.M.Pei’s iconic hospitality tower with a new sophisticated lease of life. www.swissotel.com

Jun-Aug 2019 The Cultured Traveller 45

TULUM, MEXICO HABITAS Tulum’s spectacular coastline, 1,000-year old ruins, new age vibe, cobalt waters and idyllic beaches have made this trendy yoga town 90 minutes south of Cancun one of Mexico’s hottest travel destinations.

Formerly a sleepy beach resort, even non sun worshippers find it hard to resist Tulum’s white sand beaches, balmy breezes and swaying palms. Coupled with a smattering of world-class nightlife including beach parties, happening bars and jumping jungle-shrouded restaurants, it’s not hard to see why Tulum has become a perennial favourite amongst upwardly mobile millennials especially.

Built in collaboration with local carpenters and artisans, sustainability is key at environmentally-aware Habitas, a boutique lifestyle hotel with a hippie-chic vibe, cocooned in Tulum’s beachfront jungle.

Offering everything and more to satisfy savvy millennial travellers, booking one of Habitas’ tent-like lodgings is to commit to a full-on eco experience.

Arriving guests are invited to take pinches of ground copal-tree resin (prized by the Mayans for its spiritual properties) and sprinkle it on glowing embers while mindfully releasing their worries.

Habitas’ 32 roughly-hewn but stylish guest rooms are built on elevated platforms so as to not disrupt the area and surrounding jungle.

Each is constructed from indigenous materials including a natural palapa roof. Inside, furniture is handmade from local hardwood and married with raffia lamps, vintage dressers, animal hide stools, mismatched rugs and local textiles. Bathrooms feature private outdoor rain showers and bespoke all-natural toiletries. Sliding glass doors on semi-enclosed terraces open up to vistas of the Caribbean Sea crashing over slate grey rocks.

In the resort’s clubhouse (the only fixed structure onsite), using local ingredients, chef Federico Cappi creates delectable fare such as wood-fired octopus with purple-sweet-potato purée and cheesecake made with goat’s curd and served with guavas and pistachios.

Visit Habitas to vacation sustainably and revitalise your mind, body and soul. www.habitastulum.com

Jun-Aug 2019 The Cultured Traveller 47

CHIEF’S ISLAND, BOTSWANA MOMBO CAMP Designed to take full advantage of its incredible location and offering unparalleled luxury in the thick of the African wilderness, Mombo Camp and Little Mombo (next door) together offer a dozen super deluxe tents on the northern tip of Chief’s Island, within the Okavango Delta’s 45,000-hectare Moremi Game Reserve.

Chief’s Island is so named because at 70 km long it is the largest isle within the delta; was once the sole hunting ground of the local chief and is quite possibly home to the richest concentration of wildlife in Botswana. Consequently, the plains surrounding the camp are teeming all year round, making Mombo one of the most lusted-after safari destinations in the world for more than three decades.

The camp’s design aesthetic is distinctly vintage throughout (think antique brass, Chesterfields, clubby chairs, embroidered cushions and a tonal colour palette) combined with top-end luxuries including crisp Belgian bedding and handmade Mervyn Gers ceramics.

A regularly changing menu offers everything from nourishing buddha bowls, pastas and curries to blow-out burgers with truffle fries, all of which is served wherever and whenever guests wish. Home-cooked breakfasts, brunch, late lunches, afternoon tea on your private terrace while watching zebras meander by or dining under the stars are all possible at Mombo, where nothing is too much trouble for the camp’s gracious staff, many of whom have been at the camp for years.

In between game drives, guests can partake of a private yoga class, relax in the library, swim in the infinity pool, have a massage in the small onsite spa or workout in the gym which boasts views of giraffe and other wildlife gently grazing on the plains. There’s no wi-fi or TV at Mombo, but who needs television when you’re surrounded by the best live wildlife show on the planet? www.wilderness-safaris.com

48 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

MYKONOS, GREECE BRANCO Located on one of Mykonos’ most popular beaches, providing endless people watching opportunities during the summer months when literally thousands of people descend upon Platis Yialos attracted by its golden sands and crystalline waters, boutique hotel Branco popped-up last year in the very middle of the melange introducing another design-led fashion-forward hospitality offering to the painfully hip Greek island.

Something of a contemporary take on classic Myconian architecture, designers K-Studio skilfully combined mid-century modern styling with Cycladic minimalism in a classic cluster of whitewashed cubes.

Inside, natural materials in earthy and sandy tones are married with pale wood furnishings and slate grey floors, allowing vistas of the turquoise Aegean to shine.

Deluxe Sea View rooms come with a private sun lounger adjacent to the pool, where visually pleasing staff attired in khaki linen swish around serving fruit platters and hand-crafted cocktails to guests, to a trippy soundtrack of house beats.

Meanwhile, in the pergola-covered restaurant, an inspired menu curated

by Athinagoras Kostakos spans the gamut of health-conscious salads, Greek dishes and global fare. Wagyu souvlaki is a favourite, as are Branco’s special Bloody Marys made with horseradish vodka, homemade Worcester sauce, local tomatoes and salted Greek honey.

For those who don’t mind missing out of the poolside parade for an hour or two, detox massages are a speciality in Branco’s spa cabana on busy Platis Yialos beach. For when you are staying at Branco, even when you’re having a massage, you’re still in the middle of it all. That’s Mykonos for you. www.brancohotel.com

Jun-Aug 2019 The Cultured Traveller 51

KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA W KUALA LUMPUR A sure sign of Kuala Lumpur’s continued growth, the skyline of Malaysia’s sultry capital, once dominated by the Petronas Towers, is increasingly becoming filled with new skyscrapers and high-rise developments. Whilst the Islamic-inspired 88-storey Cesar Pelli-designed buildings are still the world’s tallest twin structures, they will soon be dwarfed by the new Exchange 106 tower once it has topped out in the new fast-rising financial district a dozen blocks away.

A veritable feast for all the senses, visitor numbers to Kuala Lumpur have been steadily growing year-on-year, driven by an interest in the local Malay, Chinese and Indian cultures balanced with a constant drive to be moving at the same speed as the rest of the modern world. This increase in tourists visiting KL has spawned a spurt of new hotel openings, including a swanky St. Regis and a funky Aloft.

Undoubtedly topping the bill in the city’s fashion stakes, and located in the very center of KL just a few minutes’ walk from KLCC, 150-room W Kuala Lumpur opened towards the end of last year, after a delay of many years. Housed on floors 8 through 24 of a 55-storey tower, and fronted by an eye-catching glass and aluminium facade, it was almost certainly worth the wait, not least for the hotel’s WET Deck on the 12th floor which is dominated by an incredible vista of the Petronas Towers.

Views from the guest rooms facing the towers are similarly breathtaking and the hotel really makes the most of its superb position, which affords guests easy access to massive Suria KLCC shopping mall and public transportation facilities. Countless bars and restaurants are also close-by, should you tire of the hotel’s many in-house F&B offerings.

As with all W properties the focus is on flirtatious fun and so a sense of playful decadence is unsurprisingly apparent throughout the hotel. Yet, Veritas Design Group which collaborated with American firm Skidmore, Owings and Merrill have struck just the right balance between playfulness and luxury at W Kuala Lumpur, with all of the hotel’s F&B venues being bright, vibrant and slick without being at all tacky.

The hotel’s signature restaurant YEN serves a contemporary take on traditional Cantonese cuisine in a modern-imperial setting.

All-day dining restaurant FLOCK is all about its open kitchen concept, where chefs serve Australian-style farm-to-table dishes made using organic produce, with a focus on sustainability.

WOOBAR is the hotel’s chic all-day meeting place, where inventive cocktails and a vast array of spirits are offered and weekend DJs ramp up the volume.

Helmed by chef patron Emmanuel Stroobant, contemporary French restaurant SAINT PIERRE is privately-owned, but has already earned a Michelin star at its Singapore location, so no doubt KL’s star will follow soon.

Set on the 12th floor of the building, WICKED nightclub is also privately managed, but residents of the hotel are afforded preferential access and the place apparently rocks at the weekends.

Restoring the equilibrium of guests and locals alike is a huge and very good AWAY spa, boasting five treatment rooms, vitality pools, chroma-therapy steam baths and bio infrared saunas. And for those wanting to detox before they party, guests can work out in the hotel’s FIT gym which features an array of state-of-the-art equipment complete with floor-to-ceiling views of the city’s skyline.

Everything one needs to sleep, chill, eat, drink and party is conveniently offered in one uber-fashionable package at W Kuala Lumpur. The danger is, will you ever leave?! www.marriott.com

52 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

DAS LOFT

SO LOFTY SUITE

SO/ VIENNA

WIN A IN TH

Fashioned by located in th creative scen capital’s mos mo mention a m

Outside, the and diamon St. Stephen’s Stephen’ Once inside, way to num ceilings, com even a plant

At the heart overlooks th hand-crafted building on stands like a

A 3-NIGHT STAY IN A SO LOFTY SUITE AT SO/ VIENNA HE HEART OF THE BEAUTIFUL AUSTRIAN CAPITAL

y leading French architect Jean Nouvel and centrally he old Jewish district which now boasts a thriving ne, 182-room SO/ Vienna is undoubtedly the Austrian st stylish luxury-lifestyle hospitality address, not to masterpiece of 21st century architecture.

e towering building’s sleek monochrome surfaces nd-shaped roof, inspired by the city’s famous s cathedral, irresistibly catch the eye of passers-by. , a contemporary yet playful design aesthetic gives merous colourful artworks adorning the walls and mplete with video murals courtesy of Pipilotti Rist and wall designed by Patrick Blanc.

t of SO/ Vienna, bustling ground floor BAR/terre he Danube Canal and serves expertly-prepared d cocktails. Meanwhile, at the other end of the the 18th floor, one Michelin-starred Das LOFT a glass beacon, offering diners panoramic, sweeping

views above the city’s rooftops complete with innovative Michelin-starred cuisine made using the finest local ingredients. https://so-vienna.com/en

One lucky reader of The Cultured Traveller will stay for three nights in a SO Lofty suite at SO/ Vienna hotel, including daily breakfasts, welcome cocktails at BAR/Terre and one chef’s tasting dinner for two at Michelin-starred Das LOFT restaurant.

To enter this prize draw please email your contact details to win@theculturedtraveller.com. The draw will take place after 31st August 2019 and the winner will be notified via email. This prize can be used any time before 1st September 2020 subject to availability when booking. Blackout dates apply - the winner will be informed.

This prize is not transferable to another person. The Cultured Traveller will not share your details with third parties. Entrants will be added as subscribers to The Cultured Traveller’s mailing list.

Multiple entries will be disqualified and excluded from the draw.

Jun-Aug 2019 The Cultured Traveller 55

BURNING MAN

The art is in the clothing for one week every year in Nevada’s unforgiving Black Rock Desert, where Burning Man gives 65,000 revellers an excuse to create a new identity or play out a fantasy via some incredible outďŹ ts 25 August - 2 September 2019 www.burningman.org

Stay Exquisite Experience exemplary hospitality in a gracious setting in the heart of Washington, D.C. With refined accommodations, locally inspired dining and signature service, The St. Regis Washington, D.C. embodies timeless spirit in a modern locale.

Š2018 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.

The St. Regis Washington, D.C. 923 16th and K Streets, N.W., Washington, District of Columbia 20006 United States stregiswashingtondc.com

Stay exquisite at more than 40 St. Regis hotels and resorts worldwide. @stregishotels

Alex Benasuli discovers that Brazil’s original capital beats to its own drum whilst embodying the fundamental elements of the nation’s heart and soul that make South America’s largest country such a seductive destination

SALVADOR DE BAHIA

F

or centuries, Brazil was the crown jewel in the Portuguese colonial empire and from 1549 to 1763 Salvador De Bahia was its capital. Blessed by its strategic position on Brazil’s largest bay, facilitating easy trade with Europe, Africa and the Americas, Salvador grew fabulously rich on the back of sugarcane and slavery, quickly becoming the country’s main seaport.

As one of the oldest and wealthiest cities in the Americas, Salvador boasts some of largest and bestpreserved colonial neighbourhoods in the new world, a fact long acknowledged by UNESCO, which listed its historic city centre as a World Heritage Site in

62 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

1985. Visitors to Portugal will immediately recognise its aesthetic influences on Salvador. Ornate Baroque churches, imposing administrative buildings and blue, pink, and yellow pastel-coloured buildings with wedding cake-style white trims abound, concealing beautifully painted ceramic tiled floors and walls.

Head to Pelourinho in the upper city (Cidade Alta) for the highest concentration of colonial architecture. The steep, cobble-stoned approaches to Pelourinho, dotted with numerous historic, brightly-coloured monuments are enlivened by the exotic and unpredictable street life, giving this part of the city a Wizard of Oz-like quality. To spend time just wandering these streets, enjoying the

magnificent 17th and 18th century sherbet coloured buildings at every turn, is to enter another world.

Mornings are quiet in Pelourinho and offer an opportunity to explore its treasures in relatively cooler temperatures with fewer tourists. Salvador’s tropical sun can be punishing and avoiding sight-seeing during the mid-day heat is highly advisable. However, the effect of the abundant sunshine illuminating every nook and cranny of Salvador’s historical city centre is nothing short of breathtaking.

You will of course want to hit the architectural highlights.

Stroll down picturesque Cruzeiro de São Francisco

towards resplendent São Francisco church and convent of Salvador - one of Brazil’s most important and beautiful historical sites and best remaining examples of Portuguese Baroque architecture on the planet.

Baroque is known for its opulence and over-the-top displays of wealth. São Francisco does not disappoint.

Built in the 18th century, detailed wooden carvings adorn the walls of its magnificent interiors, whilst pillars and ceilings are decadently highlighted with gold leaf.

An eighty-kilo silver chandelier hangs majestically from the ceiling. The highlight of the convent cloister next door is the extensive classic blue and white Portuguese azulejos (or tiles) that surround it, depicting the life ►

SÃO FRANCISCO

of St. Francis of Assisi. The shady perimeter of the landscaped courtyard is an excellent place to enjoy some moments of contemplation and take a break from the heat. If there’s one church you see in Salvador, São Francisco should be it.

Pelourinho’s historical sites are plentiful and easy to discover. Though rebuilt many times, Palácio Rio Branco, Salvador’s historic seat of government, dates back to 1549. This splendid neoclassical palace boasts grand reception spaces and ornate design detailing which offer further glimpses of Brazil’s wealthy past. However, it is the shaded terrace perched high above the lower city (Cidade Baixa), revealing panoramic vistas of enormous All Saints Bay upon which Salvador de Bahia is located, that makes the visit worthwhile. Not to mention the gentle sea breezes!

Transporting goods and people from the lower city (where the ships docked) to the upper city used to be back breaking work. In the 1600s, the Jesuits designed a rope and pulley system to save time and energy. Over the years, the means of transporting goods and people became more elaborate. Built between 1869 and 1873, Elevador Lacerda was the first ever elevator to open to the public and is one of Salvador’s defining landmarks and most visited attractions. In 1928, steam elevators were replaced by an electric system. Now beautifully restored to its former art deco glory, its four elevators connect the upper city with Salvador’s bay side financial center and municipal transportation hub of Comércio in thirty seconds.

A short walk from the base of the elevator is Mercado Modelo, a replica of Salvador’s original Customs House, through which all goods and slaves passed.

Today the Mercado is a popular market, comprising more than 200 stalls brimming with local arts and crafts and typical Bahian souvenirs. Bargaining is de rigueur in Salvador. If shopping is not your thing, many of Comércio’s cafés, bars and restaurants offer vistas of All Saints’ Bay. There is a dark side to all the faded architectural extravagance and legacy of commercial activity upon which Salvador was built. Slavery was big business in Salvador. Brazil was the last country in the western world to abolish slavery in 1888. ► 64 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

COMÉRCIO SALVADOR

PELOURINHO

Forty percent of the slaves that were brought to the Americas were destined for Brazil, and Salvador was one of the largest slave ports on the continent. The Portuguese word “Pelourinho” literally means a pillory, the like of which was used as a means of punishment and humiliation for slaves who challenged their masters.

To this day, Salvador remains the Brazilian city that has retained the most African influences. With the more sinister legacies of slavery now in the past, AfroBrazilian culture thrives in Salvador and is a source of vibrancy and joy. Nowhere in Brazil is its unique cultural melting pot more in evidence than in Salvador.

66 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

In Pelourinho’s main squares and throughout the city, visitors often chance upon troupes of über fit and mostly black and male capoeira dancers. Capoeira is a Brazilian martial arts-based acrobatic dance style that was developed by enslaved Africans in Brazil in the 16th century. Combining reverence for ancestors and the spirit world with fighting techniques and trickery, it was practiced as a means for slaves to express and defend themselves. Ritualistic moves are accompanied by chanting and the playing of percussion instruments.

A highly athletic pursuit that fuses strength, dexterity and grace, watching capoeira dancers is truly mesmerising and the combination of music and dance adds a unique sprit to Salvador’s streets.

For a more authentic capoeira experience, head to Forte de Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, located at the edge of popular Santo Antônio neighbourhood, near Pelourinho.

Also known as Forte da Capoeira, this 17th century fort houses various capoeira schools that rehearse in the massive central courtyard. Here, capoeira enthusiasts of all ages, assemble to learn and practice this beautiful art form and keep alive this colourful thread of Brazilian culture. Even if there’s no capoeira happening, the area around the fort is well worth exploring and the views across All Saints’ Bay, particularly at sunset, are spectacular.

Pelourinho, minus the grandest of its historical buildings and also devoid of the tourist throngs and street hustlers that can often make Pelourinho a bit hectic and not the safest place to explore at night.

Santo Antônio, also known as Carmo, is as picturesque as

Heading from Pelourinho to Forte de Capoeira, along ►

It’s hard not to be seduced by Santo Antônio’s main drag, Rua Direita de Santo Antônio. More residential than Pelourinho, the rainbow-coloured 17th and 18th century former mansions that line this kilometer-long cobbled street positively ooze charm. Many of Salvador’s newest and most inviting bars, restaurants and boutique bed and breakfast lodgings are located here.

Rua Direita de Santo Antônio, most of the buildings on the right have terraces offering expansive views over the bay and lower city. It’s no surprise that the area has gentrified so quickly and become one the most desirable areas in Salvador to eat, drink and rest one’s head.

At night, the partying literally spills onto the streets with impromptu samba dancing and relaxed socialising.

Brazil is a laidback country and Salvador is one of its most easygoing cities. Casual and informal are rules of thumb when going out. Sensual and carefree are the predominant vibes. Very much on the rise, Santo Antônio effortlessly exudes Brazilian joie de vivre and 68 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

is the place where local residents and intrepid tourists meet in funky bars and restaurants that serve simple yet innovative takes on global and local cuisine.

Salvador’s traditionally bohemian haunt, Rio Vermelho, a twenty-minute taxi ride from Pelourinho and Santo Antônio in the city’s southern zone, is also going more upscale while firmly retaining it artsy and creative roots. Cliffside luxury skyscrapers jostle with cobble stone streets, art galleries, cafés and bars, as well as beaches, resulting in a truly eclectic vibe, both day and night.

Beachfront square Largo de Santana (or Sant’Ana) is

a lively social hub that explodes over the weekends. It’s one of the best places to sample acarajé, a mash up of black-eyed beans, shrimp, onion, salt and pepper, fried in palm oil (dendê) and served-up by Afro-Brazilian women attired in traditional a - a curious blend of ancient European Baroque with white lace detailing and multiple layers, accessorised by vibrant tropical jewellery and turban-like headdresses.

Throughout Salvador, in eating establishments catering to all budgets and tastes, you will find moqueca, Bahia’s national dish. This salt water fish stew is infused with a myriad of spices and slow-cooked for hours in terracotta pots. In Sant’Ana you will also find countless bars,

pubs and street stalls that are the perfect place to sip a cold beer or caipirinha - Brazil’s world-famous national cocktail made with cachaça, sugar and lime. A couple of caipirinhas will more than prepare you for a night of dancing, carousing and joining the tropical flow!

Every February, the beach at Rio Vermelho is the setting for Festa de Yamanjá, the Candomblé religion’s main annual festival, which along with capoeira are the most distinctive Afro-Brazilian and Bahian cultural additions to Brazilian society.

Born in the 16th century, Candomblé is a fusion of West African animist and spirit traditions with Catholic rites. ►

CARNIVAL

During Festa de Yamanjá, hundreds of white robed women light candles and make offerings to Yamanjá, a sea goddess with parallels to the Virgin Mary. Since Candomblé is a huge part of daily life in Salvador, unsurprisingly the festival becomes an all-night party.

Of course, there is no greater festival on the planet than Brazilian carnival. Salvador vies with Rio as having the biggest, best and wildest carnival in the world. Approaching a staggering two million revelers participate in Salvador’s carnival every year. This bacchanalian orgy of music, dancing, drunkenness and complete lack of inhibitions takes place every February or March in the days that lead up to the onset of Lent.

70 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

Unlike Rio, where the main events are based around the samba schools and parades, Salvador’s carnival is street party oriented and arguably even crazier than the action in Rio. The blocos (as the street parties are known) are organised around trio elétricos, which are decorated floats on trucks pumping out high-octane music.

These are followed by tens of thousands of wildly gyrating costumed and scantily-clad partygoers.

Whilst samba is the dominant beat in Rio, Salvador leans towards axé - a frenetic fusion of different Afro-Caribbean musical genres. Carnival in Salvador is not for the faint hearted and advance planning

PORTO DE BARRA BEACH

is essential to secure decent accommodation and tickets to the best blocos and musical acts. Safety is also a concern. It’s vital to get the lay of the land and at least have some strategy on how to tackle such a massive event. The payoff is being part of literally the most hedonistic party in the world.

- it’s hard to believe that such a beach exists in a city of three million. Here, in a seamless tapestry that can only be found in Salvador, fishermen, capoeira dancers and candomblé followers mix with families, lovers, beach volley and football players, as well as tourists.

Whilst Salvador is a steamy, sultry and tropical destination, the sea is never too far way. The beach at Porto de Barra, at the mouth of All Saints’ Bay in the middle of the city, has fine sand fringed by calm, translucent waters. Overlooked by a whitewashed church and bordered on one side by a colonial fort - the site of Salvador’s original European settlement

As the sun sets, seductively illuminating this Western facing stretch of urban paradise, it is impossible not to fall in love with this sexy, vibrant, melting pot of a city.

Though Salvador’s inimitable charms have evolved over many centuries, there has never been a better time than now to see this authentically seductive, bouncing Brazilian metropolis for yourself.

HOTEL FASANO SALVADOR The December 2018 opening of Hotel Fasano Salvador introduced a new level of hospitality to the capital of Bahia, from a brand synonymous with high quality, delectable food and impeccable service.

Carefully designed by renowned, award-winning architect Isay Weinfeld and primely located in Castro Alves Square in the historical center of Salvador, the hotel is housed within a magnificent historical building that, for almost half a century, was once home to the first headquarters of A Tarde, Bahia’s oldest circulating daily newspaper.

The hotel’s beautiful Art Deco entrance lobby was faithfully restored in Carrara marble and Alpe Green granite and is hung with a pair of gorgeous antique silver chandeliers from Bahia. And throughout the property, the hotel’s interiors skilfully combine trademark Fasano touches with original elements that keep the history of the building alive.

The result is an elegant hotel punctuated by authentic local antique furniture pieces and floors laid with dark Jacaranda wood.

Upstairs, 70 rooms spread over 11 floors range in size from entry-level 26sqm Superior rooms to 73 sqm Luxury Suites with blue standing out as the predominant colour. All feature handmade ceramics, plush carpets and premium linens.

Facilities include a rooftop pool offering sweeping views of the Bay of All Saints and the city’s Portuguese colonial architecture; a full-service wellness spa and fitness centre, and a signature Italian Fasano restaurant, complete with wine cellar, offering a variety of antipasti, pasta, meats, risottos and fish. www.fasano.com.br/hoteis/fasano‑salvador 72 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

STAY

FERA PALACE HOTEL Sleep inside a living piece of Salvador's history at this lovingly restored boutique hotel, 200 metres from Lacerda Elevator and 300 metres from the Mercado Modelo.

Built in 1934 in the style of New York’s Flatiron, the then Palace Hotel – an impressive art deco landmark in Salvador de Bahia’s Pelourinho quarter – was for a brief shining moment, the hotel of choice for the likes of Carmen Miranda, Orson Welles and Pablo Neruda. But by the time Marcelo Lima and Antonio Mazzafera bought the property in 2011, it had already been shuttered for a decade.

The façade of the building still retains its original 1930s art deco charm, but inside everything has been given a luxuriously modern makeover under the precise eye of Danish architect Adam Kurdahl. The result is an effortlessly stunning property, executed with panache, featuring 81 spacious rooms, many of which boast sweeping view across All Saints Bay. The interiors, also by Kurdahl, retain the original windows, while guest rooms and public spaces all feature aged brushed steel fixtures and solid Chesterfields. The mirrored drinks cabinets in guest rooms are a louche touch. Quirky art-deco flourishes lend a bohemian edge to the whole place.

Onsite facilities including a chic lobby bar; cosy restaurant; sauna with massage rooms and a well-equipped fitness centre.

But Fera Palace’s crowning glory is its plush top floor spa, gorgeous 25m infinity pool, exquisitely furnished roof terrace and stylish bar, which together set the scene for perfect evenings and offer a tantalising taste of the Bahia-influenced culinary delights prepared by executive chef Wellington Santos and served in refreshing informal Adamastor Restaurant. www.ferapalacehotel.com.br Jun-Aug 2019 The Cultured Traveller 75

HOTEL CASA DO AMARELINDO Salvador’s historic Pelourinho neighbourhood is the city’s beating heart and colourful soul and its vibrant streets and the candy-coloured buildings that line them are what have typically lured visitors to Salvador in the first place. And for good reason, since visitors to Pelourinho chance upon many of the sights and sounds that make up Salvador’s unique cultural fabric, not least magnificent Igreja de São Francisco, street-side capoeira performances, authentic street food, local art galleries, museums, bijou shops and the Mercado Modelo.

Situated 450 metres from the Mercado Modelo, 5 km from Salvador´s harbour and 25 km from the international airport, and housed within a 19th century colonial mansion on a historic block, charming boutique Hotel Casa do Amarelindo is something of a hospitality gem, located in the heart of Pelourinho facing Baía de Todos os Santos Bay. Run by friendly French owners Gilles and Didier, the hotel offers ten impeccably-outfitted guest rooms replete with first-class bedding, hot tubs or rainfall showers and huge windows. There’s an adorably petite rooftop swimming pool, two terraces, a popular bistro and a small fitness center.

Since children under 16 years of age are not welcome at Casa do Amarelindo the hotel is very much a grown-up affair with cocktails to match! In fact, the bar serves a fantastic range of caipirinhas, mixing rare cachaças with tropical fruits you have probably never have heard of. And the "no-time-limit" breakfast is a nice touch for those who may have partied Salvador style the previous night. www.casadoamarelindo.com

Jun-Aug 2019 The Cultured Traveller 77

SEE FUNDAÇ ÃO CASA DE JORGE AMADO Jorge Amado de Faria was a celebrated and well-known Brazilian writer who died in 2001 aged 88. He was the best-known of Brazil’s modern-day writers, his extensive works having been translated into some 30 languages and popularised in film, most notably Dona Flor and her Two Husbands, (in Portuguese, Dona Flor e Seus Dois Maridos) in 1978. Since he was born in Bahia and lived in Salvador, the city’s boasts two institutions in his name, both of which are open to the public. Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado exhibits the writer’s work and has a good gift shop plus a rather lovely café. A Casa do Rio Vermelho is the house where Amado and his wife, Zélia Gattai, lived. www.jorgeamado.org.br PALACETE DAS ARTES This small yet fascinating museum makes for the perfect breather from the bustling activity of Salvador's teeming streets. The villa that houses the Palacete das Artes was designed by Rossi Baptista to house the family of Portuguese Commander Bernardo Martins Catharino.

It was completed in 1912 in a style symbolic of the wealth and power of Bahian families. Even today, the villa remains one of the city’s most beautiful pieces of architecture. Serving as a museum of modern and contemporary art, it has a solid permanent collection which includes four sculptures created by French artist Auguste Rodin. Thanks to an ongoing relationship with Musée Rodin in Paris, the Palacete das Artes periodically borrows other Rodin works from France for its exhibitions. www.facebook.com/pg/palacetedasartes

IGREJA DE NOSSA SENHORA DO ROSÁRIO DOS PRETOS Opened in 1709 and built in a town that was home to Brazil’s first slave port, the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary of the Black People is a reminder of the determination of people who basically refused to give up on their faith. The slaves who worshipped here constructed this Roman Catholic church in the early 18th century because they weren't allowed in the settlers' churches. While the wooden ceiling is painted with ornate allegory, the rest of the baroque structure is relatively simple and functional in its design. Outside, on the front of the church, a plaque provides some background about the building in English. The graveyard behind the church is home to the remains of Anastasia, a local heroine who has become a legend in Brazil's colourful history. Largo do Pelourinho s/n, Pelourinho, Salvador, State of Bahia 78 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

PALACETE DAS ARTES

IGREJA DE NOSSA SENHORA DO ROSÁRIO DOS PRETOS

ELEVADOR LACERDA

MUSEU DE ARTE MODERNA

MUSEU DE ARTE MODERNA After spending a day in Pelourinho, it’s time to explore new parts of the city beginning with Salvador’s Museum of Modern Art (Museu de Arte Moderna) located within Solar do Unhão, a historical site dating back to the 16th century, on the edge of the Bay of All Saints. The renovation of the colonial structure was carried out by Dolores Landeiro, who was able to transform a dismissed site into a stunning exhibition space with 400 square metres of galleries spread over three floors, each boasting beautiful ocean views. Setting it aside from others, the museum is renowned for showing avant-garde works, including art installations, sculptures, paintings, photography, video art and live performances. After viewing the collection, head to nearby Largo de Santana in the boho neighbourhood of Rio Vermelho to snack on some of the best acarajé in the city and people watch. www.jamnomam.com.br/mam ELEVADOR LACERDA Transporting goods and people from the lower city (where the ships docked) to the upper city used to be back breaking work. In the 1600s, the Jesuits designed a rope and pulley system to save time and energy. Over the years, the means of transporting goods and people became more elaborate. Built between 1869 and 1873, Elevador Lacerda was the first ever elevator to open to the public and is one of Salvador’s defining landmarks and most visited attractions. In 1928, steam elevators were replaced by an electric system. Now beautifully restored to its former art deco glory, its four elevators connect the upper city with Salvador’s bay side financial center and municipal transportation hub of Comércio in thirty seconds. Praça Visconde de Cayru, Centro, Salvador, State of Bahia RIO BRANCO PALACE Located in Tomé de Souza Square (next to Elevador Lacerda), in the historical center of Salvador, Rio Branco Palace is a monument to the history of a nation. The original building was constructed at the same time as the city of Salvador de Bahia was founded in 1549, under the command of the first governor-general of Brazil, Tomé de Souza, and served as the government headquarters until 1763. During its life, it has been used as a barracks, a residence for Emperor Dom Pedro II and Empress Teresa Christina when they visited 1859, and even a prison.

Designed in a French Neoclassical style, in 1984 the palace was completely restored and today it houses the Pedro Calmon Foundation, the Cultural Foundation of Bahia and the Governors’ Memorial. Some of the historic palace's rooms are open to the public and worth seeing. Praca Tome de Sousa, Salvador, State of Bahia RIO BRANCO PALACE

Jun-Aug 2019 The Cultured Traveller 81

DENDÊ GASTRONOMIA BAIANA

TASTE DENDÊ GASTRONOMIA BAIANA Tasty, authentic Bahian cuisine served in a relaxed space perfect for a casual dinner or meeting friends basically sums up Dendê Gastronomia Baiana in one sentence! Characterised by an outdoor area for al fresco dining and people watching, plus openplan indoor seating decorated in typical Bahian style with lots of botanicals, the restaurant also offers cosy nooks for intimate meals and an atmospheric back yard. Inspired by Italian appetisers, during self-service “Happy Hour at Dendê”, diners can help themselves to mini acarajés and abarás, ceviche of crab or shrimp, a selection of cheeses and many other gourmet Bahian treats washed down with a good selection of wines and a range of Caprioskas. facebook.com/pg/dendegastronomiabaiana PARAISO TROPICAL Located away from the city center in the Cabula neighbourhood and housed within the same RUSTIC house for years, locals and tourists alike love award-winning organic Bahian restaurant Paraíso Tropical for its classic Brazilian fare served in an authentic and relaxed environment. Local fruits (harvested from the restaurant’s very own orchard in the back) are prepared as main courses and the restaurant's tropical moquecas, or Brazilian fish stews, are not to be missed. Try to bag a garden table and don’t miss the maturi pie - made with green cashew nuts, coconut and blackberries, it is simply to die for! restauranteparaisotropical.com.br ACARAJÉ This simple yet traditional food is the perfect snack between meals and is often served by black ladies with warm smiles on street corners, dressed in white lacy dresses and turbans. Acarajé are made from a batter of dried shrimp, skinless dried beans, onion and seasoning. Spoonfuls of the mixture are dropped into hot dendê oil (African palm oil) and deep friend until they puff up like elongated dumplings. Once removed from the oil, they are drained, slit down the center and filled with acarajé sauce made with malagueta peppers, shrimp, onion, ginger and palm oil. Acarajé are commonly garnished with fried shrimp and sometimes vatapá. If you wash down your acarajé with an ice-cold beer you might be mistaken for a local!

82 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

PARAISO TROPICAL

PARAISO TROPICAL

BAHIAN MOQUECA

AMADO

AMADO BAHIAN MOQUECA Originally wrapped in banana leaves and roasted in coals, this seafood stew is available throughout Brazil but is best sampled in the Bahia region. It’s among the more popular dishes available locally in Salvador, so expect to see it on plenty of menus. The stew is usually shrimp based but may contain other white fish, which is then mixed with garlic, parsley, pepper, onion, tomato paste, coconut milk and the secret ingredient – dendê oil (African palm oil).

This is all sautéed and stirred over a low heat and typically served with rice, which is often flavoured with cooked milk. Whilst moqueca is quite a heavy dish, you must try it while in Salvador. Classic Bahian moqueca at Dona Mariquita never disappoints. Dona Mariquita, R do Meio 178, Salvador +55 71 3334 6947 AMADO One of Salvador’s most modern restaurants and located directly on the water just a short taxi ride from the Mercado Modelo, Amado boasts a beautiful contemporary terrace overlooking the marina. Inside, immaculately laid tables are laden with superb steaks and modern Brazilian starters courtesy of a broad fine dining menu which also includes modern takes on traditional Bahian dishes. Any of Amado’s moquecas or the restaurant's signature Pescada Amarela are not to be missed. Save some space for Amado's Bahian chocolate mousse or you’ll be sorry! amadobahia.com.br VATAPÁ Another Afro-Brazilian dish with a creamy consistency, vatapá looks like a curry dish and can be nearly as heavy a meal as moqueca. Its main components are shrimp, coconut milk and bread, which is often softened first using the coconut milk. Add in peppers, ginger, ground peanuts or cashews and dendê oil (remember, this is African palm oil), mash everything into a paste and the vatapá is basically ready to eat. Vatapá is also served with rice, but is spicier and has a thicker, creamier consistency than moqueca.

Sometimes the shrimp is swapped out for other ingredients like cod, tuna or chicken.

VATAPA

Jun-Aug 2019 The Cultured Traveller 85

SIP RIO VERMELHO Whilst Salvador is a hub of activity and well known for its outrageously exciting parties, particularly during carnival time, the city’s bohemian neighbourhood of Rio Vermelho is the perfect place to spend an evening seeing another side of the city. Brimming with trendy bars and funky cafés, you can spend a whole evening in Rio Vermelho just bar hopping and people watching. Enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail at beach front Blue Praia Bar, where caipirinhas with fresh fruit or a simple chilled coconut water will quench your thirst (www.bluepraiabar. com.br). Rio Vermelho also has a ton of nightlife options, from dance clubs to English-style pubs. Three-storey San Sebastian club has one of the best sound systems in the city and plays a range of music including electronica, samba, axé, electropop, funk and Brazilian pop. www.sansebastianoficial.com.br HAVE A CAIPIRINHA You cannot visit Salvador without sampling the un-official national drink of Brazil! Most similar to a Cuban mojito, a traditional caipirinha is made with cachaça (a white alcohol made from sugar cane), sugar, and lime. Nowadays though, just about every fruit under the sun is used to make caipirinhas, with mango, pineapple, strawberry and passion fruit being the most common. One of the best places in Salvador for a Caipirinha is Bar Zulu - a popular ex-pat run haunt that opens out onto Pelourinho's cobbled streets. Here, Caipirinhas can be ordered according to quality and type of alcohol chosen, and live music and the chatter of a swelling crowd often fills the air late into the night. 15 Rua das Laranjeiras, Pelourinho, Salvador, State of Bahia CAFÉLIER Located in Santo Antonio neighbourhood, antique furniture, pictures covering the walls and a cat walking around combine to create a cosy and comfy atmosphere, brimming with character and verging on magical, complete with pictureperfect views at sunset. For this reason, Cafélier is super popular with visitors to Salvador and locals alike. It is possible to move seamlessly from coffee to cocktails or combine the two by trying a coffee with cachaça or brandy, chocolate liquor and chantilly. Cafélier's café com cravo e canela is a local speciality, made with cloves and cinnamon and best accompanied by some pastel de nata (sweet Portuguese tart). Wobbly tables on Cafélier's elevated terrace look straight out towards Salvador’s bay and a small menu of artisanal beers, Chilean wines and fruity caipirinhas go down well in front of the setting sun. www.facebook.com/cafelier‑184766574891635 86 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

RIO VERMELHO

CAFÉLIER

O CRAVINHO

VELHO ESPANHA - BAR E CULTURA

O CRAVINHO O CRAVINHO In Brazilian popular culture, cachaça is usually consumed in the form of the country’s beloved caipirinha – a national cocktail institution that mixes cachaça, lime juice, sugar and ice. However, Brazil’s traditional spirit can also be enjoyed on the rocks, as long as you know the right one to drink! One of the best places to properly experience Brazil’s national liquor is O Cravinho, a Salvador bar staple that has been serving cachaça for nearly 40 years. The bar is located in the historic Pelourinho district, making a great place to wind-up a day of sightseeing. With four different spaces all dedicated to enjoying a good drink, O Cravinho is definitely not to be missed. Be sure to try the bar's signature cachaça infusion of cloves, honey and lemon which makes for the perfect nightcap. www.ocravinho.com.br VELHO ESPANHA - BAR E CULTURA Velho Spain - Bar and Culture is a pulsating little corner in the center of the city. Located on the corner of General Labatut in front of the Biblioteca Central dos Barris, this 100+ year old watering hole first opened on 15th November 1818 and so is very much an institution in Salvador. Pictures in honour of old patrons Glauber Rocha and Setaro hang on the walls side-by-side with images of past carnivals. The hardwood ceilings and tiled floors are original but the bar was lovingly refreshed in 2017 without losing any of the venue’s charm. Stop here for an informal drink at a table outside and soak in the atmosphere of Salvador. Great music, chilled beer and affordable drinks make this bar suitable for pretty much everyone. www.facebook.com/velhoespanha TAKE HOME CACHAÇA Almost all spirits have a plant-based origin. For cachaça, it’s sugar cane. This fermented sugar cane juice is the most popular distilled alcoholic drink in Brazil, although it’s yet to catch on abroad on a significant scale. While it is normal to see perhaps a few bottles of different vodka or tequila in American or European bars, it’s hard to find more than one bottle of cachaça, if at all. In Brazil, the most popular and pleasant way to drink it is as a caipirinha, yet go to any pé-sujo bar (a cheap and cheerful Brazilian bar), and you’ll find some people from the older generations drinking neat cachaça, known as pinga, poured straight from an un-chilled bottle. A bottle of cachaça can make a great gift and it’s easy to find a range on sale in Salvador.

Jun-Aug 2019 The Cultured Traveller 89

PELOURINHO

SPEND PELOURINHO Salvador’s historic Pelourinho neighbourhood is the city’s heart and soul and its vibrant streets and the candy-coloured buildings that line them are what typically lure people to Salvador to begin with, and for good reason. Visitors to Pelourinho chance upon many of the sights and sounds that make up Salvador’s unique cultural fabric, among them magnificent Igreja de São Francisco, street-side capoeira performances, authentic street food, local art galleries, museums, bijou shops and the Mercado Modelo. The perfect place for sightseeing as well as shopping, if you stroll through Pelourinho you will surely pick up some trinkets to take home.

BRAZILIAN COFFEE Since Brazil is the world’s largest producer of coffee, finding a bean that suits your tastes is not difficult in Salvador. Brazil produces and farms the largest number of beans and also makes a wide variety of coffee, ranging from the mass-produced to speciality coffees. To be sure of buying a high-quality grind, head to a specialty coffee shop and always buy coffee in whole beans. Fazenda Progresso is a relatively young coffee farm that lies at around 1,150 metres in the mountainous Chapada Diamantina region of Bahia, in the north of Brazil. Whilst this 22,000-hectare family business started life as a vegetable farm in 1984, it recently diversified into coffee and its beans produce a delicious sweet and creamy coffee, with notes of hazelnut and milk chocolate. www.facebook.com/fazendaprogresso 90 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

PELOURINHO

FITA DE BONFIM RIBBONS Fita de Bonfim ribbons or wish bracelets are ubiquitous throughout 21st century Bahia and come in a variety of colours which signify different wishes or blessings for the wearer. For example, orange is usually worn to invoke joy and enthusiasm, whereas white signifies inner peace and wisdom. They are worn on the wrist, made into keychains, sewn onto hats and used in many other ways to bring good luck. As you walk around Salvador, you’ll see them tied to church fences and worn by Bahians throughout the city. A typical souvenir of Salvador, these bands are available throughout the city in many shops. Those which have “Lembrança do Senhor do Bonfim da Bahia” written on them, mean “A Souvenir of the Lord of Good Ends of Bahia.”

HAVAIANAS This now world-famous brand of rubber flip-flops started life 50 years ago as a basic shoe for poor plantation workers in Brazil. Yet Brazil's Havaianas brand took the humble flip-flop to new heights.

Selling about 200 million pairs every year, Havaianas is now a domestic and international phenomenon and across Brazil there are whole shops dedicated to selling them in all colours and styles. There are strappy ones, shiny ones, ones in the colour of your favourite football team, and even ones with huge platform wedges. Havaianas have become synonymous with Brazil, many carry a little Brazilian flag on their strap and they are much cheaper to buy in Salvador than on a European high street! havaianas.com.br Jun-Aug 2019 The Cultured Traveller 93

MERCADO MODELO Visiting Mercado Modelo is a one-stop shop for everything from antiques and artisan crafts to crocheted bikinis and herbal supplements. A large pastel yellow colonial building right on the harbour (sitting on the seafront under the shadow of Pelourinho up on the hill), this market is a great place to get all of your souvenir shopping done at once, and don’t be afraid to haggle on the prices! Handmade ceramics are a specialty of Brazil and Bahia in particular, and decorative items including pots and bowls featuring Brazilian designs make good mementos. Small statues of a Bahiana woman resting in the window sill with a longing look is just one of the ceramic treasures that travellers can pick up here. facebook.com/MercadoModeloBA BEACH SARONGS The Brazilian beach sarong, or canga in Portuguese, is an essential clothing item in the country and makes for a colourful and authentic yet inexpensive souvenir of your visit to Salvador de Bahia. A simple, thin, lightweight patterned cloth, often used in place of a beach towel, it also serves as a cover-up for ladies.

Sold in an infinite number of patterns and colours, finding one that suits your taste shouldn’t be hard. They are sold throughout Salvador’s beaches and shops. Haggling with a beach seller is to be expected - aim for 50% less than the asking price!

HAMMOCKS Although somewhat bulkier to carry, for the ultimate reminder of your dreamy days in Brazil, shop for a hammock, or rede in Portuguese, to take home.

The quality of the hammocks on sale in Salvador are pretty good and prices are negotiable. They come in tons of colours and many boast extra detailing such as lace or fringing on the sides.

Aim to buy a hammock which has been machine woven from the best quality Brazilian cotton.

94 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

GION MATSURI

A beautiful geisha riding on a traditional parade float in a procession as part of Japan’s Gion Matsuri festival, which runs the entire month of July every year in Kyoto’s Gion district July 2019 www.kyotoguide.com

I

t might be one of the seven deadly sins, but envy can be a motivator for good as well as nefarious deeds. In the early 1800s, Sultan Abdülmecid I, ruler of the Ottoman Empire, was becoming increasingly discontent.

While his European counterparts entertained world leaders in resplendent chateaux created by the foremost architects and artisans in the world, Abdülmecid was resigned to receiving foreign dignitaries in Constantinople’s Topkapi Palace, a sprawling mishmash of buildings assembled during the previous four centuries.

To quell his growing gloom, the Sultan commissioned a new residence on the shores of the Bosporus, a grand palace of neoclassical and baroque design that would showcase the great taste and wealth of the Ottoman Empire.

One of the last great buildings to have been built in Constantinople, Dolmabahçe Palace remains one of its most impressive. The sprawling complex contains 285 ornate rooms and 43 halls: the grand salons, state offices and reception halls of the selamlık on one side, and the private quarters of the harem (an inner sanctum reserved for the Sultan and his family) at the other.

Separating the two is a Grand Ceremonial Hall that’s more in keeping with the Byzantine style of the city’s historic buildings than the rest of the palace; a cavernous space where pairs of gigantic pillars soar 36 metres up towards a domed ceiling, from which a pendulous 4.5ton Bohemian crystal chandelier is suspended.

Gifts from kings, queens and emperors from all over the world decorate the palace’s interiors, including bear skin rugs from Russia, furniture from Paris and Asian ornamental vases.

But it is the grand, classic double horseshoeshaped Crystal Staircase of the selamlık that makes the most powerful impression.

When construction was complete in 1856, the palace was a modern marvel, a fitting home for the Ottoman court and an enduring legacy for Abdülmecid. But the building also demonstrated the duality of contemporary culture in Constantinople, a city torn between its Ottoman heritage and European aspirations.

Some 150 years later, this sense of mixed identity can still be felt in Istanbul, Turkey’s economic powerhouse, which remains on the brink of Europe, while other world powers pull it in opposite directions. ►

Joe M sump

Continents Suite Raes Istanbul

Mortimer drinks in magnificent intercontinental vistas from the ptuous surrounds of the Continents Suite at RAFFLES ISTANBUL

DOLMABAHÇE PALACE

RAFFLES

It was into this environment that Raffles Istanbul opened in 2014, part of the exclusive Zorlu Centre and a clear statement of Istanbul’s future-focused aspirations. Situated a few minutes uphill from the Bosphorus-facing Ortaköy neighbourhood, Zorlu is a mixed use-residential, commercial and hospitality development of the kind made popular in the Gulf during the past two decades.

Crossing the onyx-clad entrance into the hotel’s lobby, it’s impossible to miss the striking installation on the opposite wall: a photo-composite of the Crystal Staircase and the splendid interiors of Dolmabahçe Palace made from hundreds of images digitally stitched together. Created by French artist Jean-Francois Rauzier, the centrepiece immerses the viewer into the legend of the palace, a building that marked a major change in the city’s evolution in terms of architecture, design and identity. The parallel with Zorlu Centre is fairly clear.

Outside, the clean lines and angular shapes of the contemporary exterior are a marked contrast to the classical style exhibited in much of Istanbul’s historic centre, and the segregation of public and private areas connected by a ceremonial space (the performing arts centre) echoes the multi-functional format of the palace. But here in Raffles Istanbul, it is the ornamentation, refinement and attention to detail displayed in the photo wall that fuses the of ideology the two buildings.

100 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

ISTANBUL

Towering Byzantine columns of black marble inlaid with golden mosaic grace the lobby, leading the eye up to hand-blown glass chandeliers and partitions wrought in pre-Islamic geometric patterns. An abstract bronze figure reclining in a reflecting pool on one side of the lobby lounge is the work of sculpture Martin Dawe, bringing a touch of human emotion to the setting.

It’s a wonderful first impression, but I don’t have time to linger. Accompanied by a private butler, I’m whisked directly through the lobby to the elevator and escorted to my new home in Istanbul: the Continents Suite.

The last time I was in Istanbul, I ran from Asia to Europe as part of the Eurasia Marathon, a 26-mile race that started on the far side of the Bosphorus Bridge and ended in front of Hagia Sophia. The opening hour of the annual race is the only time of the year when the bridge is open to pedestrians, giving runners the unique privilege of crossing between two continents on foot. Six years later, I can confirm that drinking in the intercontinental views from the sumptuous surrounds of the Continents Suite is a much more satisfying privilege.

To the east are the swimming pools and apartment buildings of the exclusive Ukis residential neighbourhood. To the south, a trail of traffic snakes along the bridge, heading out to the suburbs on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. ►

RAFFLES ISTANBUL

Over in the west, the sun melts into the skies above the historic Beşiktaş and Karaköy neighbourhoods, where waterfront palaces line the Bosphorus and the distant minarets of Sultanahmet reach for the heavens. Sun loungers and a dining table tease with the prospect of lazy afternoons basking in the summer sun, but on this blustery winter evening, I’m quickly lured inside to the suite’s deluxe comforts.

An enormous L-shaped sofa dominates the living room, opposite a feature fireplace which soon warms up the suite. Overhead, a recessed ceiling in antique-style bronze gilt lends a stylish hint of nostalgia to this thoroughly contemporary space. Dark wooden floors and white walls are punctuated with pops of colour: blossom-pink alcoves filled with warm golden mosaic plates, and fuchsia-coloured orchids in a leaning palm-trunk vase.

Bookshelves are lined with Assouline and Thames & Hudson books on architecture, fashion and design, which demand to be devoured along with the complimentary fruit, nuts and lokum (Turkish delight) on one of the stylish wing-backed armchairs, and vibrant artwork adds a homely feel to the sumptuous surroundings.

The bedroom is almost as big as the living room, with a king-sized bed covered in elaborately embroidered sheets, and an abstract mural depicting the Hagia Sophia in dreamy purple hues covering the wall behind it.

102 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

A huge walk-in wardrobe makes the suite a viable option for long-term stays, and a window-facing armchair is a great spot for morning coffee. The hammam-style bathroom is a work of art, with acres of marble covering every surface and a freestanding bathtub positioned to enjoy views of the bridge while you soak.

At 224 square metres, the Continents Suite is one of the biggest in Istanbul. Double doors separate the living room from a six-seat dining room with direct access to the terrace, and there’s a Bang & Olufsen sound system in case of a lull in the conversation. The suite’s hardware is first-class throughout: a fullyfitted kitchen with Gaggenau appliances; curtains, blinds, air conditioning and lights controlled by digital wall panels; and a fully-loaded bedside iPad. But it’s the soft touches that make the Continents Suite extra special.

Since Raffles Singapore first opened in 1887, the Raffles butler service has been a brand standard. A constant supply of soothing ginger and lemon tea is delivered to the suite for my poorly partner and, returning one afternoon, we discover a bunch of balloons and Raffles teddy bear to celebrate her birthday. Downstairs, the concierge is just as thoughtful, calling ahead to Dolmabahçe Palace to check on the size of the queue before we visit during a heavy rainstorm, and recommending the best place to hail a reliable taxi in Sultanahmet. ►

But heartfelt service isn’t the only Raffles staple continued in Istanbul. Here, the famous Long Bar is a dark and sultry place festooned with artwork by Turkish artists: a pair of signature portraits by Şahi̇n Paksoy and suits of winged armour created by Serdar Tekebaşoğlu.

Stepping into the adjacent Champagne Room is like walking into an oversized golden crown. The lavish space for wine tasting and celebrations is surrounded by hundreds of bottles of champagne, and 500 glass baubles representing Turkey’s iconic whirling dervishes form an elaborate chandelier overhead. The Writers’ Bar has also been transposed from Singapore, interpreted here as the hotel’s executive lounge: a studious library with moody lighting, giant chess set and book-themed sculptures by local artist İsmai̇l Öklügi̇ l, who is just one of the dozens of national artists whose work is on display throughout the hotel.

The hotel achieves a wonderful sense of place courtesy of its culinary offerings. Glamorous all-day dining venue Rocca incorporates Turkish staples and a variety of egg dishes in its breakfast offering. Meanwhile, Isokyo turns its attention to the East, with a creative and contemporary menu that fuses local cuisine with flavours and ingredients from the Asian kitchen.

104 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

LONG BAR

The hotel’s successful marriage of contemporary style and traditional ideas shouldn’t come as a surprise. The Raffles brand itself is one steeped in history, yet with an increasingly forward-facing outlook. Heritage style hotels in Phnom Penh and Paris are now accompanied by contemporary urban escapes like those in Istanbul and Warsaw, and properties just opened in Shenzhen and the Maldives. Like Istanbul, the Raffles brand occupies a special space in time that celebrates the past and aspires to the future.

Looking out at the view on a clear morning, it seems that not a lot has changed in Istanbul since Abdülmecid sat on the throne. The city is still treading the line between east and west, striving to embrace western culture while retaining its unique identity. But here on a hill high above the Bosphorus, in the plush surrounds of the Continents Suite, it’s clear that the modern and traditional can quite happily co-exist, leading this extraordinary city into its next monumental era.

Joe Mortimer stayed in the Continents Suite at Raffles Istanbul in February 2019. The nightly rate for the suite in June, July and August 2019 is EUR 3,500 + VAT, inclusive of breakfast and airport transportation www.raffles.com/istanbul

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU ROAD TESTS GULF AIR’S FALCON GOLD CLASS, ABOARD ONE OF THE MIDDLE EASTERN CARRIER’S NEW BOEING 787-9 DREAMLINERS

T

he national carrier of the Kingdom of Bahrain was the first commercial airline to be established in the Middle East, many decades before the likes of Emirates and Qatar Airways, which currently dominate the region. Very much a legacy carrier, Gulf Air revolutionised travel in the region and quickly became synonymous with Bahrain.

Flying from its hub in Manama for almost seventy

years (the airline will celebrate its 70th anniversary in 2020), Gulf Air currently serves 47 destinations in 27 countries spanning three continents, transported more than 5 million passengers last year, and continuously acts as an ambassador for the kingdom and a catalyst for Bahrain’s economic growth.

Given its geographical advantage for connecting flights between far-flung places, there are very few of us international travellers who haven’t passed through Bahrain’s busy airport at some 106 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

stage, particularly in the 70s and 80s when Gulf Air dominated the region’s skies and only one of its three neighbours had a fledgling national airline (Emirates).

Back in the airline’s early days, Britain’s flag carrier British Overseas Airways Corporation (BOAC) becoming a major shareholder in Gulf Aviation meant that by the 1970s, Bahrain had the most developed airline infrastructure in the region. This prompted

Oman, U.A.E. and Qatar to invest in the Bahraini airline, creating multinational carrier Gulf Air, which quickly grew to dominate the Middle Eastern skies at a time when air travel was becoming increasingly popular.

But at the beginning of this millennium, Oman, U.A.E. and Qatar pulled out of Gulf Air and instead pumped vast amounts of money into their own national airlines. Emirates had already overtaken Gulf Air as the region’s most well-known airline.

Etihad and Qatar Airways copied Emirates’ business model. This left Gulf Air lagging behind its regional aviation competitors for some years. But the Bahraini airline now has a new strategy for growth, a new CEO (Krešimir Kučko) and has committed to buying dozens of new aircraft in the coming years. And since Gulf Air knows that it cannot compete on scale or price with its more cash-rich aviation neighbours, the airline is instead looking to exceed them in terms of customer satisfaction and product quality.

Q4, Gulf Air will open a slick new deluxe terminal at Bahrain Airport, complete with what is rumoured to be a game-changing premium lounge. And last year, the airline unveiled its new Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner premium cabin, which debuted on its Bahrain London route: Falcon Gold.

Indeed, the overarching theme of the airline’s recent rebranding (courtesy of Saffron Consultants) channels Gulf Air’s focus on innovation and the genuine warmth of the Bahraini people, gave the brand a modern lift and raised the quality of its customer experience. And the Gulf Air fleet’s new livery celebrates the airline’s impressive heritage.

brought Gulf Air’s premium product into line with its regional competitors.

Gulf Air is introducing new destinations yearly (Malaga and Salalah launch this month) and the airline is actively pushing into Western Europe. In

ffering a first class feel at a business class fare, the introduction of its slick new Falcon Gold cabin is very much an evolution for the Middle Eastern carrier and

Fashioned by internationally renowned design consultancy Tangerine, which took care of all elements of the new inflight experience, Gulf Air’s Falcon Gold product is distinctly different to the likes of Emirates and Qatar Airways, in that it offers something of an amalgamation of first and business classes, inspired by a fusion of Bahrain’s heritage and its modern spirit of today. ►

Whilst the in-flight service is distinctly business-like, the private capsule-like space afforded to Falcon Gold passengers is reminiscent of a top cabin class.

And despite a 2-2-2 configuration in the 26-seat Falcon Gold cabin, every passenger has direct aisle access.

Defined by a sweeping almond gold trim that draws the eye, the capsule is very well-designed, with plenty of nooks, pockets, shelves and storage

areas to keep valuables close-by and tuck away cabin baggage. I was travelling with a computer case and a fairly large holdall, both of which cosily fit underneath the large footrest, meaning that I didn’t need to put anything in the overhead bins.

It made a very pleasant change to not have to stow anything out of easy reach. Rather than use the clothes hook within the capsule, the friendly crew were only too happy to take away and hang my suit carrier.

108 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

Rich, dark brown leathers, evocative of a falconry glove, have been used on the seat headrests, arm caps and the footstool, all of which are beautifully stitched and detailed, creating a contemporary finish. Married with brushed gold accents, patterned dark brown velvet walls and elegant detailing makes for a sleek and visually sophisticated ensemble. And textured, raised privacy panels dividing the capsules, sporting 3D sculpted surfaces, create private, intimate zones.

The huge 22” screen at one end of the capsule was

almost certainly the largest I had seen in this airline class. However, the entertainment offering was limited to just movies, although the selection did include some recent Hollywood blockbusters.

The large, sturdy fold-out table swivels to allow for easy exit and access from the seat without having to put-away a laptop, for instance. Dual USB sockets plus a universal power outlet in a pocket beside the seat provide plenty of opportunity to power and recharge items in-flight.

Notwithstanding the limited wine selection, I found a very palatable Sancerre to sip. Overall, the meal service was good and the food quality high. What some dishes may have lacked in finesse was more than made-up for by generous portions and excellent, confident flavours. Not to mention warm and efficient service.

Relative privacy is also afforded to sleeping Falcon Gold passengers, since the capsule’s design effectively shades the head and upper body area from the view of others. A window seat is the one to book, thanks to a flip-down foot rest which gives window-side passengers the most bed space.

I loved that dessert was served on a traditional wheeled trolley, as was the British-style afternoon

With a new identity rooted in the airline’s historic heritage while also creating a modern aesthetic that is distinctively Bahraini, it is apparent that

tea, complete with finger sandwiches, scones and clotted cream.

every touch point visible to a Falcon Gold passenger has been carefully considered.

The piece de resistance of travelling in Falcon Gold class is the length of the bed once the chair is in the fully-flat position. I’m 6ft and there was still plenty of room past my feet, even when I lay completely flat, and the sleeping position was very comfortable, with a decent quality pillow and substantial duvetlike blanket complemented by a mattress pad and fitted sheet.

The result is an opulent and luxurious flying experience which undoubtedly heralds a new era for the Middle East’s original luxury carrier. www.gulfair.com

Nicholas Chrisostomou travelled in Falcon Gold class from Bahrain to London Heathrow in April 2019

KIRKPINAR OIL WRESTLING

Every year since the 14th century, wrestlers clad in shorts of black buffalo hide and slathered in olive oil, battle it out on a grassy field in a corner of north western Turkey, close to the country’s borders with Bulgaria and Greece 24-30 June 2019 www.facebook.com/kirkpinaroilwrestling

M

ISLAMORADA

Alex Benasuli road trips for ninety minutes south of Miami and ďŹ nds himself in an exotic island paradise

T

here is Florida: home of Disney World, Miami and hundreds of miles of sandy beaches fringed by the Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico. And then there are the Florida Keys. This string of islands, that stretches like a necklace strand from the southern tip of Florida for 120 miles in a westerly direction, are a tropical playground for boating, fishing, beach bumming and professional chill-axing.

Of the 1,700 islands that make up the Keys, some no bigger than a sandbar, only 43 are connected by bridges. The rest are uninhabited. Originally built as a railway line 100 years ago, since the 1950s, the Overseas Highway has connected Miami to Key Largo (closest to the mainland) and all the way to Key West, the most western and populous key.

114 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

By the very fact that it is literally the end of the States, at the nation’s most south easterly extremity, the Overseas Highway has near iconic status for road trippers. The longest of its bridges, the Seven Mile Bridge, was an engineering marvel when it was completed. To this day, with blues seas under and to both sides of the road, traversing the bridge is somewhat other-worldly. In essence, driving to the Keys is to leave the real world behind and enter an exotic, technicolour dimension where life slows down and enjoying oneself is paramount.

Islamorada is around 90 minutes by car from Miami airport. Known as the “Village of Islands” as well as the “Sport-Fishing Capital of the World”, Islamorada spans fifteen miles and encompasses five different islands. The various boat marinas,

independently-owned shops, restaurants and quirky art galleries give Islamorada a unique small-town charm. Yet whilst Islamorada is a popular tourist destination, it also has a strong local community.

overlooking the Gulf of Mexico – it was the closest thing to a designer hotel that the Florida Keys had ever seen. More than a decade later, it still stands out as one of the Keys’ coolest properties.

While all the keys abound in beautiful nature and an abundance of water vistas, a lot of the dining options either side of the Overseas Highway appear kitschy or outdated. This is not the case on Islamorada, which has evolved as a more upscale and bohemian enclave whilst also being firmly entrenched in the inherent laid-back nature of the Keys. Combined with its proximity to Miami, this makes Islamorada a highly desirable and convenient getaway.

Underpinned with tropical minimalism, understated and unfussy-chic best describe the décor and ambience at Casa Morada. Its founders were a group of NYC ladies who used to work for hotelier Ian Schrager, who is best known for his pared-back aesthetic, virtually all-white palette and clean spaces that flow smoothly.

Casa Morada is all of these things married with lush tropical gardens, a bay-front salt water pool and an open-air bar fashioned in the style of a white clapboard clubhouse, complete with some of the best waterside views in Florida. ►

When boutique hotel Casa Morada opened in 2008 – off a quiet lane on a waterfront spot

CASA MORADA

The property is divided into two main areas: a garden with jungle-like plants, strategically positioned hammocks and a Zen garden, plus a man-made island hovering over the bay, replete with sand, a swimming pool and sun loungers. A small foot bridge connects the two. Its quiet location, tropical garden and seafront position combine to make Casa Morada something of a complete escape. And the intimacy of the property and friendliness of its staff create a warm aura and sense of ease throughout.

the pool or in the gardens, Casa Morada boasts countless nooks and crannies to discover and lose oneself with a good book or a long drink.

Setting the tone for every stay, the unpretentious vibe begins at reception with a welcome cocktail.

Once settled, guests rarely want to leave, spending the whole time barefoot in bathing suits or shorts.

Shoes are essentially surplus to guests’ requirements at Casa Morada. Whether beside the sea, around

Surrounded by lush tropical foliage, gardenfacing rooms are perhaps the most private.

Some have outdoor showers and whirlpool tubs.

The property’s largest and most stylish suite, Iguana on the ground floor, has a secluded outdoor garden for lounging in private.

116 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

Casa Morada’s sixteen, uniquely-named suites are contained within the Garden House and Seaview House and have a minimalist, mid-century modern feel to them. Throughout, the emphasis is on authentic, down-to-earth facilities, laden with enough style and refinements to please almost everyone.

CASA MORADA

Sea-view suites range in size, with most having separate bedrooms and living rooms or seating areas. The second-floor Shangri-La Suite boasts a private terrace with panoramic water views.

Part of what make the Keys so special are its unique and well preserved eco system. Often known as “sea cows”, the number of large, lumbering manatees in our seas has dwindled significantly during recent years. Yet, families of manatees regularly visit the shallow waters around Casa Morada. A sure sign of how healthy the environment is around Islamorada, this also affirms the privileged spot Casa Morada occupies in terms of appreciating the natural world.

It would be a shame to visit the Keys and not take to the water. Casa Morada offers a number of different

excursions led by local marine environmentalist Captain Bill. A veritable font of local knowledge, his two-hour island tour takes in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, which extends from south of Miami westward to encompass the Dry Tortugas.

Awash with coral reefs, shipwrecks, seagrass beds, wet lands and mangrove forests, the sanctuary is well worth visiting. (floridakeys.noaa.gov) For the more hedonistic, a water borne bar-hopping trip can be a lot of fun, especially for a group of friends.

Taking-in a variety of watering holes, once anchor is dropped at Islamorada Sandbar, what begins as a few drinks often turns into an impromptu party, particularly on the weekends. It doesn’t get more Keys than being on the water with friends, socialising with other boaters and bathing in sunshine surrounded by clear blue seas. ►

For the active but less intrepid, Casa Morada offers complimentary kayaks and paddle boards which are an excellent way to explore the coastline whilst getting a bit of exercise.

Yoga is a way of life for millions of people around the world. At Casa Morada, residents can unwind three mornings per week to a backdrop of calming ocean sounds, without charge. Private sessions are also arranged.

Square. This quaint, shopping enclave, spread between a collection of candy-coloured plantationstyle buildings, features an eclectic mix of unique and individually-owned boutiques, including an art gallery and some good, simple food options (www. villagesquareislamorada.com). Bad Boy Burrito serves authentic Mexican fare made using local, organic produce (www.badboyburritoislamorada.com), while charming Café Moka is perfect for lunch.

If it all sounds like paradise, it pretty much is. However, Casa Morada does not have a restaurant, so whilst breakfast is served onsite every morning, guests need to leave the property for all other meals, providing visitors with an excuse to explore.

For a contemporary interpretation of a classic Floridian seafood restaurant, head to the Square Grouper at Islamorada Marina. Try to grab a table on the deck out back, overlooking the boats, and feast on the freshest catches of the day plus perennial favourites including conch chowder. (www.squaregrouperislamorada.com)

Just a few miles from the hotel is cutesy Village

Just off the Overseas Highway, Chef Michael’s is a

more upscale restaurant serving seafood, “dock to dish fish” and New American entrées in a slick, islandstyled environment. Its Sunday Brunch (served ‘til 2pm) is also very good, with Mimosas just USD 8 a pop! (www.foodtotalkabout.com) Of course, one cannot talk about eating in the Florida Keys without mentioning one of its most famous exports: Key Lime Pie. Locals are protective and particular about their Key lime pie. The original Conch version is essentially made using yellow Key limes, egg yolks, condensed milk, cream, butter and sugar, plus egg whites for the meringue topping. In Islamorada, Bayside Gourmet is undoubtedly one of the best places to sample this delicious local delicacy. (www.baysidegourmet.com) Whilst sunsets in the Keys are legendary, when observed from Casa Morada’s bar they are nothing

short of spectacular, complete with chess, checkers and backgammon tables set-up on the deck just in case you fancy indulging in a little board play as day turns to night. A pair of swing seats offer the perfect vantage point to watch the world go by – or at least the birds, boats and gently lapping waves – as blue skies erupt into shades of orange, gold and even purple.

It seems only fitting that since Jimmy Buffet’s famous 1977 song “Margaritaville” was originally written in the Florida Keys, one should sip a margarita as the sun goes down. Quite honestly, one doesn’t really grasp what it is to be in a truly footloose and fancy-free state of mind until experiencing a gorgeous Florida Keys sunset with a sundowner in one’s hand, and few places are better than Casa Morada on Islamorada to get with the program. (www.casamorada.com)

MOUNT HAGEN CULTURAL SHOW

It is evident that tribal identity is still a strong source of pride in Papua New Guinea, as more than one hundred tribes gather in Mount Hagen for the annual “sing-sing�

17-18 August 2019 www.papuanewguinea.travel

SPOTLIGHT

SERIFOS Nicholas Chrisostomou is addicted to the Cycladic wildness and breathtaking beauty of a particular Greek island

N

umbering quite literally thousands, Greece’s picturesque islands and islets are scattered throughout the Aegean and Ionian seas and form an inherent part of the nation’s culture and traditions. Every well-to-do Athenian heads to “the islands” during the summer months. Many celebrated Athenian restaurants also decamp to an island outpost for the summer season, returning to the Greek capital in September.

Since breath-taking scenery, pristine golden bays, stunning beaches, endless olive groves and charming whitewashed hillside villages are a feature of many of the 227 inhabited Greek islands, how does one choose which to visit? We all know that the most famous of anything is rarely the best and so if one is looking for genuinely unspoilt beauty, a tip-off from someone in-the-know is almost certainly what’s needed.

This is exactly how I discovered the western Cycladic island of Serifos and I have been making annual pilgrimages since.

My personal go-to destination to pause my hectic life to breath, chill, eat well, sleep properly and generally do as I please, just writing about

126 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

Serifos gives me goose bumps. It’s one of the few places I go where I honestly couldn’t care less whether I have a phone signal. Perfect to get off the grid for a short while yet be in touch with civilisation, whilst Serifos can be enjoyed with friends or families it is also wonderful to explore alone. There are very few rules on Serifos and I’m pretty sure that none of the island’s 1,500 permanent inhabitants much care what visitors get up to, as long as their way of life is not upset.

Serifos is located in the Aegean Sea, around two hours from Piraeus via high-speed catamaran during the summer months. Aegean flies direct to Athens daily from a multitude of European cities (aegeanair.com) and many Gulf carriers fly to the Greek capital, making Serifos reasonably accessible with a bit of planning. Piraeus is a 30-minute taxi ride from Athens airport. Getting to the Maldives is much more of a drama and I’d honestly choose Serifos every time.

The first time I stepped off the ferry from Athens, the town of Livadi seemed to resemble most other Cycladic ports, with fishing boats, ►

HOTEL RIZES

cookie-cutter tavernas, a couple of mini-markets and a few yachts refuelling. It didn’t seem special at all. But once I sped away from the port on the coastal road which circumnavigates every twist and turn of the island, the scenery which unfolded before my eyes was quite literally overwhelming. Merely turning a corner gave way to another picture postcard bay or sweeping sea vista, and the island appeared to exude a calmness and reassurance that rapidly connected with my senses. It was akin to revisiting a Greece that seemed to have stood still since the 70s, when I was a kid and island life was unspoilt by mass tourism. Areas of arid terrain and wild countryside, punctuated by intense deep blue swathes of the Aegean, made me ache to get down to the beaches. I’m not particularly a beach person but Serifos’ I just can’t resist.

The first thing to do in Serifos is unpack, eat a decent meal (preferably close to your lodgings) and get a good sleep. On your first night, turn in early and sleep as long as you need. For, if you’re anything like me, you will be itching to spend your first full day exploring the island.

128 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

HOTEL RIZES

There are just two quality hotels on Serifos: COCO-MAT Eco Residences and Rizes. Overlooking beautiful Vagia beach, COCO-MAT consists of a dozen two-storey residence-styled hotel suites, that skilfully merge traditional elements of local architecture with the industrial feel of the one-time grey-stone miners’ quarters, to create contemporary spaces in harmony with their surroundings. COCO-MAT is a unique and beautiful resort, but rates start at EUR 350 per night which is a little steep for somewhere you will essentially just kip! (serifos.cocomat-hotels.com/en) Family owned and efficiently run by Olga-Sophia, Rizes is situated on top of a hill overlooking Livadi and the coast on one side and Chora in front. Whitewashed, well-designed, comfortable and breezy, Rizes’ rooms make the ideal base for a Serifos adventure, both in terms of the hotel’s location and accommodation offerings. Plus, Rizes has a gorgeous swimming pool boasting panoramic views and its onsite restaurant serves delicious fare at reasonable prices. And if you fancy staying-in one night, some Rizes room service is not going to break the bank! However, because Rizes’ doesn’t charge the earth, its 14 rooms and two suites usually sell out through the summer months, ►

so you’ll need to book early. (www.hotelrizes.gr/en) You’d be wise to call ahead of your arrival on Serifos to arrange a quad bike from Blue Bird. (www.rentacar-bluebird.gr) Be sure to book a bike with a decent sized engine to cope with the island’s hills and winding roads. Once you’re mobile, make an immediate pit-stop at the small pie shop 50 metres from Blue Bird on your way to the port. Depending on the time of year, the shop’s lady owner serves the best spanakopita or cheese pie you will have ever tasted. Many mornings I by-passed a hotel breakfast and headed straight to her shop. Whilst Greeks are known for their warmth and hospitality, on Serifos you soon feel like part of an actual family. Locals are genuinely kind and generous. It’s a wonder the pie shop lady makes any money!

Some of Europe’s oldest civilisations developed on the Greek islands, so many have unique archaeological sites, a distinctive architectural heritage and fascinating centuries-old traditions. Serifos is no exception. The island’s mines and the people who worked them are a significant part of its past.

130 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

Rich in iron ore and precious minerals, Serifos was once home to a mining industry that thrived for eighty years, giving prosperity to the island and growing the population. The exploitation of Serifos’ mineral resources by Emilios Gromman and his family began in 1885 and continued until 1962 when the mines closed as reserves depleted, production costs increased and metal prices were in decline around the world. The rusty remains of mining machinery, tools and carts dot some of the island’s hills like poetic reminders of Serifos’ industrial past. In places it feels like the workers literally downed their tools, stopped the wagons and walked away forever, adding a butch yet rather romantic touch to the scenery.

It takes about an hour to drive around Serifos on a quad bike - a bit less in a car. This is assuming that you manage to resist the temptation to stop the engine every time a spectacular scene comes into view. And spectacular vistas are plentiful on Serifos. As are deserted golden beaches you often have to yourself, fringed by clear aquamarine waters in which to swim. ►

One of Serifos’ most alluring qualities is its beautiful beaches. According to the locals, they number more than seventy. Scattered around the island, even after many visits and weeks on the island, I still haven’t visited all of them.

Serifos is all about discovering hidden beach gems. A few minutes’ drive from Livadi on the south side of the island, look out for a turnoff marked Kalo Ampeli. Take the dusty road as far as possible before parking just above the small blue and white church and finding the footpath. Ten minutes later you’ll find a cove of golden sand lapped by turquoise waters bathed in sun. There are no restaurants on Kalo Ampeli beach so take provisions.

Travelling around Serifos in a clockwise direction works in tandem with the sun’s moving position during the day. Further on from Kalo Ampeli, you’ll come across Koutalas Bay, which features a trio of gorgeous beaches including Ganema and Vagia. Vagia beach is divine - you won’t believe how clear its waters are.

132 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

According to Greek mythology, Serifos was once inhabited by cyclopes, who were the first to discover the island’s mineral wealth. On the road between Koutalas Bay and Mega Livadi, stop at Psaropirgos to see the “Cyclops’ Throne” - a large edifice fashioned from massive oblong slates.

Named after the church that stands on the cove’s rocks and just ten minutes’ walk from Rizes, golden-sanded Agios Sostis beach is perfect for an early morning swim. You’ll be dry by the time you’ve walked back to the hotel and hungry for some breakfast.

The most enjoyable days on Serifos are spent on the back of a quad, moving around the island at your own pace, stopping-off at deserted beaches, having a dip in the sea, drying-off on the sand, moving onto the next beach and taking a break for lunch at a beachfront taverna.

Manoli’s on Psili Ammos beach is a favourite of mine. A no-frills taverna found at the bottom of an unassuming driveway marked at the top by a weather-beaten sign, EUR 25 will buy you a classic Greek salad made with tomatoes that actually taste like tomatoes and topped with ►

a slab of feta; enough fresh grilled octopus to satisfy even the most ravenous appetite and half a carafe of very drinkable local white. And while lunch is being prepared, you can take a dip in the sea twenty metres in front of your table. A Greek island holiday doesn’t get much better than this.

No visit to Serifos is complete without visiting its beautiful, fortified Chora, essentially the island’s capital. Built in a typical Cycladic architectural style, it is one of the most impressive in the Cyclades. Whitewashed houses and churches cover the hill leading up to the castle at the very top, which was built by the Venetians in the 1400s. The densely packed small houses surrounding it acted as a defensive wall. On the way up, stop at picturesque paved square Pano Piatsa for a coffee at Στου Στράτου in the shadow of the island’s handsome neoclassical town hall.

134 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

Once at the top of Chora, the magnificent views from the chapel of Agios Constantinos, at the island’s highest point, are nothing short of incredible and evoke a variety of emotions in visitors. For me, watching night fall over Serifos from the top of its Chora is a fitting place to end a visit to this most special of Greek islands.

If you have tired of Santorini sunsets and mad Mykonos beach clubs and are at a stage in your life when an easy-going genuinely Greek Cycladic experience appeals, choose Serifos. There’s a reason why a handful of smart Athenians have been visiting the island for decades. Its wildness and breathtaking beauty are completely addictive and will surely surpass your expectations at every turn. Just do me a favour and try not to tell too many people about it! www.discover-serifos.com/en

STONEHENGE SOLSTICE FESTIVAL

Thousands of people gather at the prehistoric site of Stonehenge, near the English town of Amesbury, to oer their salutations to the sun and celebrate the longest day of the year, the summer solstice 21 June 2019 www.solsticefest.co.uk

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN Nicholas Chrisostomou stylishly tackles the world’s largest, busiest and most famous temple complex: ANGKOR WAT

O

ur world is brimming with incredible sights, some of them veritable wonders.

But no one enjoys being one of thousands vying to get into an archaeological site or view a monument on any given day.

Queuing is often a necessity, especially when visiting somewhere like the Taj Mahal for instance, but there are ways, with a bit of forward planning, to tackle a tourist attraction slightly differently and turn what would otherwise have been a memorable trip into a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Such was my visit to Angkor Wat - the prized 12th century Buddhist temple complex which draws ►

138 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

“My afternoon’s adventures had a distinctly Indiana Jones flavour, as we followed lost paths and hidden trails to visit hidden, off-the-beaten-track temples and monuments in all corners of the vast Angkor complex”

140 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

two million tourists every year and is the main attraction of Angkor Archaeological Park, if not Cambodia.

30 minutes’ drive from Angkor, the resort town of Siem Riep is the Southeast Asian gateway through which every Angkor pilgrim passes or more likely stays. Located in the northwest of the country, as a result of its proximity to the park, a thriving, year-round tourist industry has developed over the years. Everything that a modern-day traveller could possibly wish for is available in Siem Riep, including a wide variety of accommodation ranging from hostels and budget B&Bs to deluxe resorts, five-star hotels and, at the top end of the scale, luxe private villas surrounded by rice paddies.

More than 90 percent of Cambodians practice Theravada Buddhism and hence they are a kind, industrious, hospitable and open-minded people. This makes for a positive visitor experience in Siem Riep. The archaeological park is also well organised. But, since visiting Angkor can be terribly exhausting (especially if you’re determined to get the “sunrise shot”), booking a full-service hotel with an experienced concierge team is a must, and getting the right guide is imperative.

One of Siem Reap’s major heritage landmarks and located roughly halfway between downtown and the park, Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor opened in 1932, is coming-up for ninety years old and is very much the region’s hospitality grand dame. Everyone from Charlie Chaplin to the Clintons have stayed here and following a very recent top-to-toe refurb, this truly grand colonial property is now amply equipped to handle the next generation of discerning international travellers. It was here that The Cultured Traveller checked-in for three days and we couldn’t have wished for a better base camp.

Most people don’t take advantage of a hotel concierge.

This is probably because they simply don’t know all that these hospitality professionals can do to help. Concierges have years of experience, tons of insider knowledge and an extensive network of contacts that can make or break a stay, particularly in a resort town such as Siem Riep which is entirely driven by tourists. One instinctively knows whether a hotel experience is going to be good based on the first communications, be it email or telephone calls. The Raffles concierge team was on the ball from day one which was just the start of what transpired to be a superb stay.

Three days is the perfect amount of time to be in Siem Riep. Whilst you would have to be superhuman (and mega patient) not to tire of the temple crowds after a day, 72 hours is just enough to get a good taste of Siem Reap and see enough of the park to get ►

PREAH KHAN TEMPLE GATE

that photo and tick Angkor off your bucket list.

On your first day in Siem Reap, take a load off, get some rest and eat well. Really well. For you will need to be fully-fuelled for the next day, when you’ll be getting-up at 4am and heading to Angkor while it’s still dark. As one would expect, you can feast like a king at Raffles at a variety of F&B venues.

Cambodia has a rich artistic legacy that stretches back thousands of years to the pre-Angkor era. While much of it came close to being wiped out during the reign of the Khmer Rouge (1975-1979), huge efforts have been made during the past few decades to particularly rekindle Apsara. Dating back to the 7th century, Aspara is the most popular form of classical Cambodian dance and formed an essential part of Khmer culture. Back then, these goddess-like women only danced for the royal family. Indeed, Apsara dancers can be seen carved into the walls at Angkor Wat. So, while you’re in Siem Reap, do try and take in a show. Raffles stages one of the most majestic Aspara shows in Siem Reap, which is held in 142 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

the hotel’s tropical gardens. Literally a few minutes’ walk from my suite and combining traditional Cambodian dance and Khmer martial arts, the show’s sumptuous setting was the perfect first night Angkor experience, complete with an excellent pan-Asian barbecue.

Unless you’re partial to loud music, neon signs, bars touting drink specials and rowdy groups of backpackers everywhere you turn, whatever you do, don’t be persuaded to visit Pub Street in the middle of Siem Reap, which is filled with late night watering holes and budget hostels. Steer well clear. Sipping an Airavata cocktail (rum, lime juice, crème de banana, pineapple and coconut juice) in Elephant Bar at Raffles is where you want to be the night before you visit Angkor Wat. For a once-in-a-lifetime insider Angkor experience, book the services of Vespa Adventures vespaadventures.com.

Passionate about what they do, the Vespa Adventures team pre-arranged a tailor-made day at Angkor Archaeological Park to suit my needs. This included an affable, hugely knowledgeable and dedicated guide

BAYON TEMPLE

(David) and a second Vespa with an experienced driver tasked with whizzing me around. Together these guys provided an unforgettable adventure, the like of which, quite honestly, I was not expecting. It all began with a 4.30am hotel pick-up. Armed with a Raffles breakfast packed in a chic canvas rucksack, we set off for Angkor Wat’s little-known back entrance.

Cambodians have free entry to the Angkor complex and it transpired that David often visited on his days off, to find hidden spots and look for small details that others may not notice. When the site opened at 5am, we arrived at the east gate to the rear of Angkor Wat, which is much smaller than the main west gate. The only other people I saw were a few fruit and water vendors setting-up their stands. I was literally the only tourist.

Armed with flashlights, David ushered us through the pitch-black temple compound, all the while talking about the history and culture of Angkor Wat. After perhaps 10-15 minutes of walking (with no one else around us) he trained a light on the back of Angkor Wat. I was

flabbergasted. Here I was at the back of one of the most famous temples in the world, essentially alone. My questions flowed uncontrollably as David guided me, in the dark, around the back and side of Angkor Wat. This remarkable morning was to set the tone for the entire day Vespa Adventures had carefully planned for me.

It’s impossible not to join the crowd if you want to see the sun rise over Angkor Wat. It was an astonishing sight. But soon after I was happy to move on. I spent an hour or so walking round the iconic temple and its towers with David chatting to me throughout. He was a marvel. Then we headed away from Angkor Wat and the fast-growing throngs to have breakfast.

After a 15-minute Vespa ride, I was nibbling on croissant in the shadow of a beautiful 12th century gatehouse on the south east corner of Angkor Thom, the last capital city of the Khmer empire. It was implausible to be completely alone in such a historic site, but there I was. So, fuelled by my first fix of caffeine that day, I took the opportunity to explore the gatehouse before we moved-on. ►

That morning we visited a number of other temples which were virtually deserted since the bulk were at Angkor Wat. Located on the left when entering Angkor Thom at the southern gate, the small, ancient Hindu temple of Baksei Chamkrong is well over 1,000 years old and one of the most ancient in Angkor.

At the heart of Angkor Thom, mesmerising 12th century Bayon temple – with its 54 towers decorated with 216 gargantuan smiling faces of Avalokiteshvara – was easy to see and get around. Timing is everything when visiting Angkor and David clearly had it sussed.

Just after noon I was deposited back at Raffles to rest and regroup in readiness for the second part of my Angkor experience – an explorer-like tour – which was to commence after lunch. But rather than take the opportunity to have a cat nap, I ventured to local Wat Preak Prom Rath monastery (10 mins from Raffles) to be blessed by a Cambodian monk in a private ceremony.

Travelling as much as I do, I didn’t think it could hurt to be imparted with some more positive vibes!

My afternoon’s adventures had a distinctly Indiana Jones flavour, as we followed lost paths and hidden trails to visit hidden, off-the-beaten-track temples and monuments in all corners of the vast Angkor complex.

With my trusty Vespa and driver acting like a time travelling machine, we whizzed from temple to temple, through the jungle, past hidden ancient cities, across bridges, under crumbling gates and around moats.

Still largely unrestored yet one of the larger complexes within the park, majestic 12th century Preah Khan temple was built for King Jayavarman VII to honour his father and was originally the centre of a substantial organisation of 100,000 officials and servants, surrounded by a moat. Words literally failed me.

To reach the late 12th century temple of Ta Nei, we had to take narrow (sometimes treacherous) dirt tracks through dense terrain – me on the back of one Vespa and my guide David on another – for a good few kilometres before we arrived at our destination. But it was so worth it. Built during the reign of King Jayavarman VII and dedicated to Buddha, small semi-ruined Ta Nei is located near the northwest corner of the East Baray, a large holy reservoir.

We were literally the only people at this remarkable temple. Again, I was virtually rendered speechless.

My day in Angkor Archaeological park ended on the magnificent entrance bridge leading to the south gate ► 144 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

ANGKOR WAT

BRIDGE TO ANGKOR THOM’S SOUTH GATE

of Angkor Thom. As the setting sun cast mellow light on the statues of gods and demons lining each side of the bridge, I reflected on the unique experience personally curated for me with such attention to detail

by Vespa Adventures, and felt nothing but gratitude.

Angkor is a humbling place and memories were made that day which will undoubtedly be with me for years.

After conquering Angkor Archaeological Park, the third day of any stay in Siem Reap should be stress-free, relaxing and slightly indulgent. Have a long lie-in, breakfast in bed and schedule an hour-long massage. Finally have that refreshing dip in the hotel pool and soakup some sun. Raffles has a great spa and a stunning pool. I spent some time on the terrace of my hotel suite, posted temple photos on social media and did a lit bit of sunbathing. Then I grabbed a tuk-tuk (which are plentiful in Siem Reap) and headed to Sister Srey.

A fun and funky café on the riverfront near Psar

Chaa, Sister Srey is a social enterprise which supports young Khmer students as well as APOPO Humanitarian Demining. (www.apopo.org) I sat at a large table on the sidewalk and watched Cambodia fly by as I lunched on western comfort food with a creative twist. (www.sistersreycafe.com) Charming Asana Old Wooden House is the only original house still standing in the old market district. (www.asana-cambodia.com) Now a unique bar, have an early evening Khmer cocktail class before heading back to Raffles for some room service.

Sihanoukville soft shell crabs and a glass of chilled Australian Clare Hill’s Riesling nicely closed off the perfect post-Angkor day and restored my equilibrium ready to deal with a chaotic Cambodian airport!

With thanks to both Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor and Vespa Adventures for hosting The Cultured Traveller

RAFFLES GRAND HOTEL D’ANGKOR SIEM REAP, CAMBODIA

S

urrounded by a 15 acre park, located less than five miles from Angkor Wat and taking its name from the capital city of the ancient Khmer empire which ruled much of Southeast Asia from 802 to 1431, when Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor first opened its glamorous doors in 1932, many considered it advanced for its time, for its rooms featured indoor plumbing and private bathrooms.

Famous French architect Ernest Hébrard who designed the huge French Colonial-style edifice even installed a wrought iron and wooden elevator in the hotel, which has remained popular with guests ever since.

hotel, from beautiful 19th century prints of Cambodian life in the marble-floored hallways, to a dedicated gallery featuring John McDermott’s seminal photographs of the Angkor ruins.

Over the many decades since the hotel opened almost ninety years ago, everyone from Charlie Chaplin and Jaqueline Kennedy Onassis to Princess Margaret, her husband Lord Snowdon and the Clintons have stayed at Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, as the property has hosted the cream of the world’s cultured travellers.

Hébrard incorporated elements of Khmer architecture, art and furniture throughout Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor; integrated features of French-Colonial architecture into the design of the hotel and wove strong Art Deco influences into the very fabric of the building. Much of his labour of love remains today.

Now something of a heritage landmark in Siem Reap and almost certainly the region’s hospitality grand dame, the hotel has recently undergone a complete refurbishment programme, bringing its 119 rooms and suites up to 21st century standards to welcome the next generation of discerning international globetrotters.

Nods to the hotel’s history can still be seen throughout the

Many rooms have private balconies or terraces. A wide variety

148 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

of room and suite categories caters to every type of guest, including Cabana Suites which boast large private terraces a few steps away from the hotel’s stunning swimming, and four specially curated Personality Suites which take their inspiration from people who have been closely associated with Angkor. Every room features dark wood floors, antique furnishings and huge beds dressed in the finest linens.

Dining venues include Restaurant Le Grand which serves traditional Royal Khmer cuisine handed down from chefs who worked at the Royal Palace; Café d’Angkor offering Asian and Continental fare indoors or on a large patio overlooking the pool and gardens, and The Conservatory for traditional afternoon tea. Sipping an Airavata cocktail (rum, lime juice, crème de banana, pineapple and coconut juice) in the hotel’s atmospheric Elephant Bar is where you want to be the night before you visit Angkor Wat. Tennis courts, a well-equipped fitness centre and a ful-service

spa with six treatment rooms are also onsite, the latter offering a range of intensely rejuvenating treatments incorporating Khmer traditions.

Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor’s piece de resistance and the beautiful centrepiece of the property is its magnificent outdoor swimming pool, reputedly the largest in the country, which exudes old world charm (pictured).

Service throughout the hotel is formal, uniformed and professional without being intrusive. The concierge team is superb, knows Angkor Archaeological Park and Siem Reap inside out and attends to guests’ needs with incredible efficiency.

The best hotel in Siem Reap, Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor is undoubtedly the most stylish and historic base from which to explore the most famous temple complex on the planet. www.raffles.com/siem-reap

REVIEW AILA

ISTANBUL Food Atmosphere

Joe Mortimer discovers that one particular restaurant in Istanbul is giving traditional Turkish dining a modern makeover

P

lanted at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, Istanbul’s culinary canon is the product of 2,000 years of modern history. The Greeks, Persians and Romans all claimed the city for their own over the years, from the era of ancient Byzantium to its halcyon days as prosperous Constantinople, when much of the world’s trade flowed through the city and with it, the tastes of those who passed by.

While empires rose and fell, Istanbul’s gastronomic repertoire evolved and grew. Spices arrived from the Far East and India, grilled meats and sticky sweets from Mesopotamia and the Levant, fresh fish from the Black Sea, vegetables, olives and wine from the Balkans and Mediterranean, hearty stews from the Caucasus, and eventually, potatoes and tomatoes from the Americas. All made their mark on the Turkish kitchen, but it was the Ottomans who made the most indelible impression on the city and its epicurean history, renaming it Istanbul and refining the smorgasbord of regional influences into the distinct Turkish style that we recognise today.

In modern‑day Istanbul, the bustling streets are a theatre of culinary creativity. High‑end restaurants overlooking the Bosporus pride themselves on the traditional Ottoman ‘palace cuisine’ created in the vast kitchens of the Topkapi Palace 500 years ago. More modest venues serve wonderful, humble dishes that form the backbone of Turkish casual dining: cheese, meat or vegetable‑topped breads like pide and lahmacun, and hearty kebabs overflowing with grilled lamb and beef. Café windows reveal trays full of borek (filled filo pastries), while bakeries display rows of golden baklava (nut and syrup‑covered sweet pastry treats) and colourful mounds of fragrant lokum, the aptly named Turkish Delight; while street vendors hawk bags of roasted chestnuts and warm crusty simit, the ubiquitous sesame seed‑covered bagels seen all over the city.

Somewhere between the lofty heights of palace dining and the simple but delicious street food is a collection of dishes that makes up an entire chapter of the Turkish culinary encyclopaedia: mezze. Every great civilization has a type of food designed for sharing, and in Turkey, they have made it an art form. Despite the bevvy of dining options in Istanbul, families still often eat at home and it’s usually mezze that brings them together.

It’s with mezze in mind that I arrive at Fairmont Quasar Istanbul in the upmarket Mecidiyeköy business district for dinner at Aila, the hotel’s sleek and stylish signature restaurant that promises a modern take on traditional mezze and a crash course on the Turkish kitchen.

Arriving through Aila’s private elevator, accessed via a dedicated door next to the main hotel entrance, guests step out into the Raki Bar, a sea of marble with warm golden accents that stocks a head‑spinning variety of the aniseed‑flavoured elixir. Part Byzantine palace, part contemporary bar, the anteroom is a wonderful place to start the evening.

Love it or hate it, raki is Turkey’s national drink, a variety of the spirit found throughout Europe and Asia in many forms: pastis in France, ouzo in Greece, arak in the Levant and sambuca in student bars all over the world. Known colloquially as aslan sütü (lion’s milk) the clear spirit turns milky white with the addition of water, which dilutes the high‑proof spirit to make it more palatable. The strong, sweet flavour of aniseed is known to cut through the rich, unctuous and often heavy Turkish cuisine, and its properties as an aperitif are useful when settling in for a long mezze session, all of which makes it the perfect accompaniment to dining at Aila. ►

152 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

The larger of the two dining rooms is a bright, open space with soaring ceilings and walls clad in marble and dark wood, with a standalone mezze bar where rows of mason jars packed with colourful pickles are stacked high in backlit shelves. The effect is a modern Ottoman temple of gastronomy, forming a palatial backdrop to live culinary performances each evening, and cooking classes and private events during the day.

On the far side of the Raki Bar is a more intimate dining area, with dark walls and heavy drapes, where a DJ spins contemporary Turkish tunes throughout the evening. Behind an ocakbaşi wood‑fired grill, Chef de Cuisine Emre Inanir and his brigade work in an open‑plan kitchen that hums with activity, adding some human theatre to the nightly spectacle.

Though the menu is inspired by regional food from all over the country, there’s nothing rustic about the presentation of the vibrantly hued plates that begin to arrive at my table. Borani is a dish of strained yoghurt with green pepper and parsley oil that’s usually served in a bowl for dipping.

Here, the borani has been shaped into a set roundel and embellished with jagged shards of frozen yoghurt, adding crunch and texture, and a wow factor at the table.

It’s not the only plate given a modern twist. The black carrot tarator is a fresh take on the traditional Anatolian dish: a creamy garlic and strained yoghurt dip turned mauve by the dark vegetable, topped with a bundle of crispy carrot slivers.

The hummus is flavoured with mushroom dust and truffle oil, while the vibrant purple kisir – a rich medley of bulgur wheat with orange sauce, sumac molasses and beetroot – is a piece of edible pop art that leaps off the table. Garlicy eggplant kopoglu is slow‑cooled for a deep rich flavour, and the addition of sumac and pomegranate molasses to a tomato, red onion and walnut salad is an absolute triumph, adding a bright, fresh dimension to the first round of mezze.

Legend has it that Turkish poet Nâzım Hikmet created piraye – a sauce of slow‑cooked tomato puree and pine kernels, served with a homemade yoghurt cheese – for his wife, Piraye, while he was a political prisoner.

While I lament the man’s plight, I’m grateful for his contribution to the mezze oeuvre: a delicious creation that I greedily scoop up with hunks of fresh‑baked bread.

When they’re not performing in the kitchen during a busy service, the affable Chef Emre and his close‑knit team spend their time exploring the chemistry of Turkish cooking, experimenting with traditional flavours and ingredients to see how far dishes can be enhanced and modernised. The results of their work can be seen in the Spice Library, a studious space behind the main dining room where more than 100 spices and homemade seasonings are displayed in tall glass jars or packed into drawers like the merchant stalls of the city’s Spice Bazaar.

Alongside the familiar labels like cinnamon, turmeric and peppercorns are some of the more exotic spices used in Turkish cuisine, like sumac, mastic and dusted rose. There are spices for sherbet – the sweet beverage that can be enjoyed hot or cold – like tamarind and star anise, and others recommended for infusions such as marjoram, hibiscus and juniper. All can be purchased to take‑away, or simply admired during a break between courses.

154 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

But it’s the Signature Spices that stand out: a selection of powders and rubs created in Aila’s kitchens that isolate powerful flavours like black kalamata olives, porcini mushrooms or red beetroot. Serving suggestions provide inspiration and guidance on which powders will liven up a salad or brighten up a dessert.

Want to sass up your fruit‑based cocktail? How about some quince powder to give it a tart finish? It’s a creative and playful concept that demonstrates the great lengths Aila’s chefs are going to incorporate fresh takes on traditional ingredients into the modern home dining repertoire.

Back at the table, I’m wowed by thin slices of lamb’s heart with little savoury boregi (filo pastry puffs) and awed by zucchini flower lalanga (deep‑fried batter balls usually served for breakfast) stuffed with roasted sea bass and fennel tarama. The crunch and crispiness of these hot mezze dishes take the meal in a new direction, playing with the texture and temperature to create new taste sensations.

Beautiful buttery sea bass is served with nutmeg fennel cream, Jerusalem artichoke and spinach root, and the perfectly cooked

beef tenderloin in bone marrow sauce comes with a bulgur pilaff and eggplant yoghurt. After such an extensive parade, there’s no room for dessert, but a potent Turkish coffee rounds off the experience with a bittersweet flourish: a punchy end to a meal full of surprises and style.

Aila Dokuzsekliz, to give the restaurant its full name, pays tribute to the roots of Turkish dining and culture: Aila was a popular girl’s name in the late 1970s and 80s and ‘dokuz sekliz’ refers to the 9/8‑beat tempo that’s often used in the country’s traditional music. But while the restaurant celebrates the wealth of heritage, the approach taken by Chef Emre and his team is modern and forward thinking, driven by a desire to ignite fresh interest in Turkish food.

It’s a modern and artistic menu that tells a story: a kaleidoscopic selection of beautifully presented dishes that bring this time‑ honoured fare firmly into the modern age. With restaurants like Aila and chefs like Emre writing new chapters in Istanbul’s epic culinary history, it’s clear that the future of Turkish cuisine is in safe hands.

AILA Food: Atmosphere: Executive chef: Address: Telephone: Email: Website: Cuisine: Lunch: Dinner: Dinner price:

Emre Inanır Büyükdere Caddesi 76, Mecidiyeköy Istanbul 34393, Turkey +90 531 258 33 33 info@ailaistanbul.com www.ailaistanbul.com Innovative Turkish Closed 19:00‑23:00 Rib ‑ Kale Wrap TRY 49 Lamb Loin TRY 128 Pirave TRY 34 Baklava TRY 38

156 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

Ideal meal: Reservations: Wheelchair access: Children: Credit cards: Parking:

Chef’s Tasting Menu TRY 220 Essential Yes High chairs available. No kids’ menu All major Hotel parking complimentary. Valet parking chargeable

Reviewed by Joe Mortimer for dinner on 13th February 2019 Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

SKAI Restaurant

Experience breathtaking views of the Singapore cityscape from 70 floors above. Delight in an innovative menu featuring prime beef cuts and fresh seafood specialties with Japanese accents and bring your meal to a sweet conclusion with visually stunning desserts.

LUNCH Sunday to Friday: 12.00pm to 2.30pm SATURDAY À LA CARTE BRUNCH Saturday: 12:00pm to 3.30pm DINNER Monday to Sunday: 6.00pm to 10.00pm

FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CALL +65 6837 3322, EMAIL SKAI@SWISSOTEL.COM OR BOOK ONLINE AT WWW.SKAI.SG LEVEL 70, SWISSÔTEL THE STAMFORD LIKE OUR

/SKAI.SG •

/SKAI.SG

WORLD PRIDE 2019

Spanning the entire month of June, this year’s Gay Pride events in New York include World Pride 2019 and Stonewall’s 50th anniversary, all culminating in the NYC Pride March on Sunday 30th June June 2019 https://2019-worldpride-stonewall50.nycpride.org

music & NIGHT LIFE MADONNA

Madonna has been worshipped, mocked and vilified and written off more times than she’s changed her hair colour, yet has outlasted most of her contemporaries. Paul Burston pays homage to a true pop survivor

T here’s a new Madonna album on the way and opinion is divided between those can hardly contain their excitement, those who never cared for her and those who say she’s too old and no longer relevant; and not for the first time. In 1993, less than a decade into her record-breaking, headlinegrabbing career, British pop magazine Smash Hits urged her to, “Put it away, Grandma!” Madonna was all of 35 at the time. Thanks to her strict diet and exercise regime, she’d never looked better. That same year she told the BBC’s Jonathan Ross that ageism was another battle she was prepared to fight. She had no intention of growing old gracefully. And she’s been true to her word ever since.

Given that this is a woman who has delighted in causing controversy from the moment she became famous, this should hardly come as a surprise.

Madonna has never done anything by the rule book. Why start now?

The unstoppable rise of Madonna was partly about timing. In 1983, Debbie Harry of Blondie was taking time off to nurse her partner, Chris Stein.

Often described as “the punk Marilyn Monroe”, Harry’s absence left a gap in the pop market for a sultry blonde with a Marilyn fixation. Early in her career, Madonna famously compared herself to Monroe. She even paid tribute to her in the video for Material Girl, with its visual echoes of Marilyn’s iconic performance of Diamonds Are A Girl’s Best Friend in the film Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. “But Marilyn was a victim and I’m not”, Madonna added, lest anyone be in any doubt. Asked by an interviewer to tell him her dreams, she quipped, “To rule the world”.

Timing isn’t everything, of course. Nor is unbridled ambition. You also need the talent to back it up. Madonna was the first to admit that she wasn’t the world’s greatest singer or dancer. What she had was perfect pop instincts and a work ethic that led feminist scholar Camille Paglia to nickname her “Our Lady Of Hard Work”. This was in evidence from the start. Madonna’s eponymous 1983 debut album spawned dance hits like Lucky Star and the enduringly infectious Holiday. Released the following year, her second album, Like A Virgin, raised her profile even further with chart toppers including the title track, Material Girl and Into The Groove.

But it wasn’t until her third album that she went from being a pop star to a global phenomenon. Released in 1986, True Blue revealed a new, gym-toned Madonna and one who was determined to use her fame to, in her own words, “push people’s buttons”. And did she ever. Papa Don’t Preach dealt with teenage pregnancy and abortion rights. Live To Tell was a song about female survival and still ranks as one of her finest ballads. And the video for Open Your Heart showed that this was a woman who understood the power of pop iconography and its potential for making bold statements about sexuality.

Here was Madonna the showgirl, performing inside a peep show. But there’s a twist. She’s the one calling the shots. The video is a knowing comment on the male gaze. And not all the men watching her are straight. At one point, a gay couple are seen peering through the glass.

Three years later, with her short and tempestuous marriage to actor Sean Penn on the rocks, Madonna released what was widely considered ► 162 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

164 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

her first truly substantial album. Like A Prayer marked a significant change in people’s perception of her as an artist. Yes, her voice was still thin – but feel the depth of the material. A soul baring album in many ways, the songs dealt with Catholic guilt, the death of her mother, her troubled relationship with her father and the breakdown of her marriage. Rolling Stone said the album was “as close to art as pop gets”. It was also hugely commercial, topping the charts in countries worldwide. Madonna’s Imperial Period had begun.

Had it been recorded by a man, Like A Prayer would surely have won awards.

Here was an artist digging deep and coming up with some of the best songs of her career – not just the gospel-inspired title track, but classics like the feminist anthem Express Yourself and the joyful Cherish. A landmark album in many ways, Like A Prayer proved the doubters wrong. Here was incontrovertible proof that Madonna wasn’t all style and no substance. She was and still is a serious artist. As if to drive the point home, the video for Express Yourself referenced Fritz Lang’s silent classic Metropolis and the artist Tamara de Lempicka. Madonna appears in androgynous garb reminiscent of Marlene Dietrich and grabs her crotch like Michael Jackson.

Then came Vogue. Borrowing heavily from the underground black gay dancehall culture of New York, Madonna brought voguing firmly into the mainstream. Described by one reviewer as “Madonna’s finest single moment”, the song topped the charts and offered further proof of her ability to fuse subcultural credibility with commercial success. A highlight of her career-defining 1990 Blonde Ambition world tour, it’s been a firm concert favourite ever since.

With costumes designed by Jean-Paul Gaultier and elaborate choreography combining Catholic imagery with overt sexuality, Blonde Ambition was famously denounced by the Pope and protested by Christian groups.

Scenes of female masturbation and displays of male homosexuality were not considered suitable viewing for pop audiences. The controversy added further drama to the documentary released the following year. Madonna: Truth or Dare (or In Bed With Madonna, as it was called outside North America) featured exhilarating colour footage of the live show, plus black and white behind-the-scenes footage of the star having her throat examined; squabbling with boyfriend Warren Beatty; visiting her mother’s grave and hanging out with her mainly gay male dancers. At one point, she dares two of the dancers to French kiss and whoops with delight when they oblige.

It may seem tame now, but scenes of two men kissing were not commonplace in 1991. Nor was it the done thing for a star of Madonna’s magnitude to talk openly about HIV stigma and to champion gay rights. But Madonna has never been shy about expressing herself. She has always openly acknowledged her gay fan base and paid her respects to the gay mentors who helped shape her as a person and as a performer. Is it any wonder that gay men were quick to justify their love for her?

In October 1990, having completed her Blonde Ambition tour, Madonna queered her pitch even further with the release of Justify My Love. ► Jun-Aug 2019 The Cultured Traveller 165

Co-written with Lenny Kravitz, the song was delivered in an intimate, spoken word-style Madonna would also employ on her next album. Filmed by JeanBaptiste Mondino in grainy black and white, the video for the single featured scenes of gender-bending, bisexuality, sadomasochism and voyeurism – and was subsequently banned by MTV and other TV networks. Never one to miss an opportunity, Madonna released the video on VHS and it quickly became a bestseller. This was the first time an artist had released a single in this format, making it a groundbreaking decision as well as a commercially lucrative one.

By now, people were getting used to Madonna’s talent for causing a commotion and turning it to her own advantage. But her next move would test the extent to which she could continue to push people’s buttons and still enjoy mainstream success. When it was revealed that her 1992 album Erotica would coincide with the release of a coffee table book called Sex, the knives were out. A collection of photographs of the star in various stages of undress and a variety of sexual scenarios with men and women, Sex attracted criticism from both conservative groups and feminist campaigners, who objected to the book’s pornographic rape fantasies. Author and Madonna fan Lucy O’Brien saw the book as “a curious act of self-destruction.”

Others complained that the images were derivative, lacked warmth and revealed Madonna as nothing more than a sexual tourist, flirting with queer imagery while enjoying all the benefits of heterosexuality. Personally, I think it was an incredibly brave thing for a woman in Madonna’s position to do in the sexually anxious early 90s. Yes, Sex was often cold, sometimes silly and verging on the ridiculous. But it was also sex-positive at a time when sexuality was linked with a deadly disease and sexual minorities were under constant attack. As for the question of authenticity, since when did a shapeshifter like Madonna ever lay claim to being authentic? After the various personas she adopted from Like A Virgin to Like A Prayer, I think of the early ’90s as her Like A Lesbian period.

Sadly, the controversy surrounding the Sex book overshadowed Madonna’s 1992 Erotica album, which received good reviews but sold poorly compared to her previous two releases. It did however spawn several hit singles, including the title track, Rain, Fever, Bad Girl and Deeper and Deeper. In hindsight, it’s easy to see Erotica as Madonna’s most experimental album so far, combining elements of dance, disco, rap and hip hop. It has certainly grown in stature of the years, with some even claiming it set the blueprint for modern pop with its blending of genres and the emotional rawness of the material. Yet even Madonna later admitted that her biggest disappointment was “the fact that my Erotica album was overlooked because of the whole thing with the Sex book. It just got lost in all of that.”

It wasn’t until 1998’s Ray of Light that her record sales recovered to the levels she enjoyed pre-Erotica. A commercial and critical success, Ray of Light spawned several hit singles, including Frozen and the title track. It also saw the star finally receiving the recognition she so richly deserved, winning a total of four Grammys and earning praise both for her songwriting ability and her vocal performance. A mix of electronica, dance, ambient, techno and trip hop, Ray of Light was produced by William Orbit, who also worked on her next album, Music. ► 166 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

Jun-Aug 2019 The Cultured Traveller 167

MADONNA & MALUMA PERFORMING MEDELLÍN AT THE 2019 BILLBOARD MUSIC AWARDS

168 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

Reviews of Music (Madonna’s eighth studio album released in 2000) were less favorable than Ray of Light, but the album was another commercial success, reaching the number one spot on both sides of the Atlantic.

Confession time. I’m a sometimes devotional, sometimes lapsed but ultimately unrepentant Madonna fan. Parts of Like A Virgin left me cold.

I was never a huge fan of True Blue. After a run of four or five albums I still listen to regularly, she lost me with American Life. Released in 2003, in the wake of the Iraq war, it tries hard to be politically relevant but lacks depth. Nothing Fails is magnificent – a rare transcendent moment on an otherwise uninspiring album. Elsewhere, Madonna’s observations about the hollowness of Hollywood and the emptiness of the American dream sound facile. And the cod English accent she adopted during her marriage to Guy Ritchie grates almost as much as hearing a mega-rich pop star bemoaning her privileged place in the world.

But then came Confessions on a Dance Floor. “Only when I’m dancing can I feel this free” she sang way back in 1985 on Into The Groove. Twenty years later on her 2005 Confessions album, Madonna got her groove back. The ABBA sampled Hung Up was a monster hit, topping the charts in 41 countries, and there were more where that came from. The singles Sorry, Get Together and Jump all made the top ten. The album won a Grammy Award, sold over ten million copies worldwide and went to number one in 40 countries, earning a place in the Guinness World Records. The following year’s Confessions Tour became the highest grossing concert tour ever undertaken by a female artist – a record Madonna subsequently broke with her next live tour, Sticky & Sweet, in 2008.

None of the albums she’s released since has had quite the same impact as Confessions. But there have been some great singles – 4 Minutes (featuring vocals by Justin Timberlake and Timbaland), Give It 2 Me featuring Pharrell Williams from 2008’s Hard Candy, and Ghosttown from 2015’s Rebel Heart.

There’ve also been some less than memorable moments – Girl Gone Wild and Bitch I’m Madonna (as one wag noted, a great song title in search of a song).

Despite Madonna’s storming May 2019 performance at the Billboard Music Awards (https://youtu.be/P2vt4YvwOQg), reaction to her latest singles Medellín and the anthemic I Rise has been muted, to say the least. And then there was her less-than-storming Eurovision performance, where she struggled to hit the high notes on Like A Prayer and gave the critics another excuse to declare her career over.

But don’t write her off just yet. It’s no accident that her 2004 live tour was called The Re-Invention Tour. Like David Bowie before her, Madonna has a talent for reinventing herself and has bounced back more times than any of her contemporaries. Her new album Madame X is out on 14 June, with a more intimate theatre tour to follow. And who knows? She may just surprise us yet. Bitch, she’s Madonna. www.madonna.com Paul Burston’s new novel The Closer I Get is published by Orenda Books. www.paulburston.com Jun-Aug 2019 The Cultured Traveller 169

T racing the history and impact of the celebrated couturier, Adrian Gibson gives The Cultured Traveller a tour of the V&A’s sell-out exhibition, CHRISTIAN DIOR: DESIGNER OF DREAMS “There is no other country in the world, beside my own, whose way of life I like so much. I love English traditions, English politeness, English architecture. I even like English cooking,” said the creative genius and founder of one of the world’s most influential fashion houses, Christian Dior.

Born in the Normandy seaside town of Granville in 1905, Dior was one of five children born to a well off fertiliser manufacturer. The family moved to Paris when Dior was aged five.

As a child, Dior sold sketches on the street to make pocket money. Soon after leaving school, he persuaded his father to fund the acquisition of a small gallery where he and a friend sold art by then relative unknowns, which included Pablo Picasso.

Following the stock market crash of 1929 and the onset of the Great Depression, the collapse of the family business and the death of his father, Dior was forced to close the gallery but managed to get a job working for Swiss-born fashion designer Robert Piguet. Dior was able to put his creative mind and sketching talents to good use at Piguet’s atelier on Paris’ Rue du Cirque, and worked with Piguet until he was conscripted in 1940. Hence Piguet is ostensibly credited with training Dior, not to mention a host of other renowned couturiers including Hubert de Givenchy and Pierre Balmain. Dior would later say, “Robert Piguet taught me the virtues of simplicity through which true elegance must come.”

After two years of military service, Dior became a primary designer (alongside Balmain) for couturier Lucien Long. Long is credited with the saving the French fashion industry from being moved to Berlin by the occupying wartime German forces.

When the war was over there were opportunities for many, including Dior, who was invited to become the artistic director of struggling fashion house Philippe et Gaston, which ten years ► 170 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

CHRISTIAN DIOR WITH MODEL LUCKY, CIRCA 1955

GLOBETROTTER

Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams

172 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

earlier had ranked alongside the likes of Chanel.

But Dior had his own ideas, believing that women were looking for something new and inspiring now that the war was over. Backed by cotton-fabric magnate Marcel Boussac, the house of Dior was founded in December 1946 in a Parisian townhouse at 30 Avenue Montaigne, with new employees and a new mentality. Out went the stark wartime style of sharp-shouldered suits. In came luxurious garments with cinched waists and generous skirts.

Dior showed his first impressive collection of 90 pieces in February 1947. Silhouettes were structured, waists defined and skirts billowing, with each piece designed to enhance the curvaceous figure of a woman and made using many yards of fabric, which was in stark and indulgent contrast to economical and cautious wartime fashions. Dior’s first collection deftly captured the enthusiastic mood of the time, as well as the attention of stars Rita Hayworth and Margot Fonteyn and the British royal family, the latter inviting the designer to privately present his garments at the Palace. So began the relationship between the British royal family and Christian Dior.

The following year, Dior established a luxury readyto-wear house on the corner of 5th Avenue and 57th Street in New York. It was the first of its kind in the world. The very same year he launched Dior Parfums, naming the first fragrance Miss Dior after his younger sister Catherine who survived the Nazi’s Ravensbrück concentration camp for women. In 1949, Dior was the first couturier to arrange the licensed production of his designs. The rest, as they say, is fashion history.

Whilst the V&A’s exhibition is based upon major 2017 exhibition Christian Dior: Couturier du Réve staged at Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, 60% of the London exhibits are different to those shown in Paris, and the London exhibition includes an additional section referencing the designer’s love for the British Capital and G.B. Not only did Dior stage his first U.K. fashion show at London’s famous Savoy hotel in 1950, but he also admired the grandeur of Britain’s great houses, grand hotels and gardens, not to mention Britishdesigned ocean liners including the Queen Mary.

Overseen by the V&A’s curator of modern textiles and fashion, Oriole Cullen, Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams traces the history and impact of the fashion house’s founder and the six artistic directors who succeeded him. ►

The exhibition is housed within the stunning Amanda Levete-designed subterranean Sainsbury Gallery, opened in 2017 and approached through the arches of Sir Aston Webb’s beautiful 19th century screen at street level. Divided into eleven themed rooms, Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams charts the history of the brand from its creation to the present day.

The exhibition boasts more than 500 objects, including 200 haute-couture garments exhibited alongside accessories, photography, perfume, make-up, illustrations and magazines. A selection of Christian Dior’s personal possessions is also on show. While the prospect of seeing so many items may be a little daunting for some, Cullen’s skilful curation of Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams, married with installations by Paris-based interiors studio Agence NC, make viewing the exhibition relatively easy via the individually themed rooms, each of which focuses on different aspects of the fashion house.

Moving from the designer’s early life to his Belle Époque-inspired couture gowns and onwards, important pieces worn by ballet dancer Margot Fonteyn and actress Jennifer Lawrence are on display, as are unique exhibits showcasing some of Dior’s collaborations with British manufacturers, including Dents (gloves), Rayne (shoes), Lyle and Scott (knitwear) and Mitchel Maer (costume jewellery).

The museum was also able to draw upon its own, extensive Christian Dior archive, to show pieces such as the iconic ‘Bar’ suit, which was one of the most popular items in Dior’s first ever collection and is the focus of the exhibition’s opening room, The New Look.

The Dior Line room charts the brand’s inaugural decade via ten, key garments, individually displayed in mirrored boxes, which were designed between 1947 and 1957 when Christian Dior was at the helm of his house.

The museum is particularly proud of the Dior in Britain room, which showcases the designer’s love for the nation and how his British clients reciprocated by loving his designs, including the romantic off-white gown Dior created for young Princess Margaret for 21st birthday, in which she was famously photographed

by Cecil Beaton for her official birthday portrait.

The Historicism room follows the influence of historic dress and decorative arts on Dior’s creations from 1947 to today, encompassing Dior’s passion for the 18th century, and the Belle Époque fashions worn by his mother, Madeleine Dior. ► 174 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

176 The Cultured Traveller Jun-Aug 2019

Travel and how different countries and cultures have inspired Dior’s designers is the theme of the next room, with Egyptian-inspired dresses designed by John Galliano taking centre stage.

In the Garden Room, faux hanging flowers surrounding a selection of beautiful gowns displayed behind curved glass, highlight the importance of florals and botanicals as a source of inspiration.

Designers of Dior features work by the brand’s six subsequent artistic directors post Dior’s death in 1957: Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Chiuri. Saint Laurent’s designs were somewhat daring for the early 1960s. Bohan helmed the brand for 29 years, updating many of Dior’s iconic designs during his long tenure.

Ferré’s designs reflect his architecturally-inspired aesthetic. Enfant terrible John Galliano’s creations for Dior were daring and exuberant. Simons’ twenty collections for Dior were signified by minimalist, sharp tailoring and creative colour combinations.

And lastly Chiuri – the first woman at the head of the house – who put the femininity back into Dior.

The final space is a lavish Ballroom, recreated from one of Britain’s great country piles where Dior staged many shows in the 1950s. On display are more than fifty spectacular evening gowns spanning the brand’s 70-year history and every creative force, against a glamorous backdrop of glittering walls, huge mirrors and crystal chandeliers. Dior said in 1954, “the ballgown is your dream and it must make your dream” and so, to this day, the house continues to attire celebrities on red carpets around the world.

To see Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams in supremely chic style, book a “Christian Dior at the Berkeley” overnight stay at The Berkeley hotel, which is five minutes in a taxi from the V&A. Including a pair of exhibition tickets, a deluxe room and breakfast in bed, the package also includes a hardback copy of the 192-page book produced to accompany the V&A’s retrospective, plus a bottle of Laurent-Perrier and Prêt-à-Portea Dior-themed catwalk cakes on arrival. After all, one can never have too much Dior! (www.the-berkeley.co.uk) Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams runs at London’s V&A until 1st September 2019 www.vam.ac.uk

PRINCESS MARGARET WEARING CHRISTIAN DIOR

PHOTOGRAPHED BY CECIL BEATON IN LONDON IN 1951

1 1902 TOWNHOUSE

D

hotel1902soller.com

DENDÊ GASTRONOMIA BAIANA

A

DISCOVER SERIFOS

AEGEAN aegeanair.com AILA www.ailaistanbul.com AMADO amadobahia.com.br APOPO www.apopo.org ASANA OLD WOODEN HOUSE www.asana‑cambodia.com

facebook.com/pg/dendegastronomiabaiana www.discover‑serifos.com/en

DISTORTION www.cphdistortion.dk

F FERA PALACE HOTEL www.ferapalacehotel.com.br

FESTIVAL OF SAINT‑DENIS

B

www.festival‑saint‑denis.com

BAD BOY BURRITO

floridakeys.noaa.gov

www.badboyburritoislamorada.com

BAYSIDE GOURMET www.baysidegourmet.com

BLUE BIRD www.rentacar‑bluebird.gr BLUE PRAIA BAR www.bluepraiabar.com.br BOARDMASTERS www.boardmasters.co.uk BORYEONG MUD FESTIVAL www.mudfestival.or.kr

BRANCO www.brancohotel.com BRISTOL INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FIESTA www.bristolballoonfiesta.co.uk

BURNING MAN www.burningman.org

FLORIDA KEYS NATIONAL MARINE SANCTUARY FUNDAÇÃO CASA DE JORGE AMADO www.jorgeamado.org.br

G GLASTONBURY www.glastonburyfestivals.co.uk

GULF AIR www.gulfair.com

H HABITAS habitastulum.com HAVAIANAS http://havaianas.com.br HOTEL CASA DO AMARELINDO

C

www.casadoamarelindo.com

CAFÉLIER

www.fasano.com.br/hoteis/fasano‑salvador

facebook.com/cafelier‑184766574891635

CASA MORADA www.casamorada.com CHEF MICHAEL’S www.foodtotalkabout.com COCO‑MAT ECO RESIDENCES SERIFOS serifos.coco‑mat‑hotels.com/en

HOTEL FASANO SALVADOR HOTEL RIZES www.hotelrizes.gr/en/index/index

I ITB BERLIN www.itb‑berlin.de

K

S

Knysna Oyster Festival

SAN SEBASTIAN CLUB

www.oysterfestival.co.za

www.sansebastianoficial.com.br

M www.mainelobsterfestival.com

SISTER SREY www.sistersreycafe.com SO/ BANGKOK www.so‑sofitel‑bangkok.com SO/ VIENNA https://so‑vienna.com/en SÓNAR www.sonar.es/en/2019 SQUARE GROUPER BAR & GRILL

MEADOWS IN THE MOUNTAINS

www.squaregrouperislamorada.com

www.meadowsinthemountains.com

SUNDY PRAIA sundyprincipe.com SWISSÔTEL THE STAMFORD www.swissotel.com

MADONNA www.madonna.com MAINE LOBSTER FESTIVAL

MERCADO MODELO www.mercadomodelobahia.com.br

MOMBO CAMP wilderness‑safaris.com MOUNT HAGEN CULTURAL SHOW www.papuanewguinea.travel MUSEU DE ARTE MODERNA www.jamnomam.com.br/mam

O

T THE BERKELEY www.the‑berkeley.co.uk THE EDINBURGH FESTIVAL FRINGE www.edfringe.com THE MERCHANT HOUSE www.campbellgrayhotels.com THE MIDDLE HOUSE www.themiddlehousehotel.com THE VICEROY www.viceroyhotelsandresorts.com

O CRAVINHO www.ocravinho.com.br

V

P

VELHO ESPANHA ‑ BAR E CULTURA

PALACETE DAS ARTES

VERRIDE PALÁCIO SANTA CATARINA verridesc.pt VESPA ADVENTURES https://vespaadventures.com VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM www.vam.ac.uk VILLA SQUARE, ISLAMORADA

www.facebook.com/pg/palacetedasartes

PARAÍSO TROPICAL restauranteparaisotropical.com.br

PAUL BURSTON www.paulburston.com

www.facebook.com/velhoespanha

www.villagesquareislamorada.com

R

W

RAFFLES GRAND HOTEL D’ANGKOR

W KUALA LUMPUR www.marriott.com WORLD BODYPAINTING FESTIVAL

ww.raffles.com/siem‑reap

RAFFLES ISTANBUL www.raffles.com/istanbul RATH YATRA www.rathyatra.org RED BULL SOAPBOX RACE soapbox.redbull.co.uk

www.bodypainting‑festival.com

WORLD WIFE‑CARRYING CHAMPIONSHIPS www.eukonkanto.fi/en