The Cultured Traveller, December 2019-February 2020 Issue 28 by The Cultured Traveller

➤ ISSUE

DE C EM BER 2019 – F EBRUA RY 2020

Cultured T H E

T R AV E L L E R

Cape Town THE AFRICAN CONTINENT’S CULTURAL CAPITAL

SEATTLE ➤ AUSTRIAN TIROL ➤ DEBBIE H ARRY ST. P E T E R S B U R G ➤ T I M WA L K E R PA RIS ➤ A N T ON IO BE R A R DI

REJUVENATE IN STYLE: LUXURY WELLNESS ESCAPES Unwind in high style at The Chedi Muscat. Our peaceful beachside sanctuary by the Gulf of Oman becomes the backdrop for your luxury rejuvenation journey – 2, 4 or 6-day wellness getaway in our upper category Chedi Club Suites. This transformative programme comes with GHM’s legendary Club benefits like private airport transfers to pamper you from start to finish and daily breakfast to kick-start your mornings. Get your adrenaline going in our 1,500-square-metre relaxation and fitness haven, tapping your happiness endorphins with activities including yoga, kinesis and Pilates. Allow our expert therapists to help heal your body and soul with soothing daily spa therapies, paired with fresh and healthy meals prepared especially for you throughout your stay.

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MH.T.E.: 0206K015A0021500

ETERNAL ELEGANCE

5 2 S O U T H A F R I C A’ S C U LT U R A L CA P I TA L

10 8 5 M I N U T E S W I T H … MICHEL ROUX JR.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU finds that CAPE TOWN has become the Rainbow Nation’s cultural capital, thanks to the world-class Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa, a burgeoning arts scene boasting dozens of cutting-edge galleries and the uber-cool Silo District.

The renowned chef explains why Le Gavroche is still at the top of London’s restaurant game, champions mentorship in the industry and tells The Cultured Traveller about his Christmas Day.

1 8 8 T R AV E L T I P S FROM THE TOP Celebrated fashion designer ANTONIO BERARDI tells The Cultured Traveller what he simply can’t take to the skies without.

152 L E S S SHOW A N D M O R E TA S T E I N PA R I S JOE MORTIMER discovers that the void between fine dining and brasseries in the French capital is being plugged by a new wave of chefs who celebrate seasonal ingredients and regional cuisine above showy tasting menus

17 0 B E Y O N D T H E PA G E S O F V O G U E TIM WALKER has been a prolific presence in international creative circles since shooting his first Vogue story at the age of 25. DAWN GIBSON experiences the extraordinary creative process of one of the world’s most imaginative photographers at an immersive London retrospective.

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

50 WIN FOUR NIGHTS I N BA L I N E SE LUXU RY Nestled amongst tropical gardens bordering the white sands of Jimbaran Bay, one lucky reader of The Cultured Traveller will win a deluxe stay at five-star INTERCONTINENTAL BALI RESORT. The view towards Table Mountain from The Sky Terrace at The Silo Hotel in Cape Town

IS SU E 2 8 ➤ DE C EM BER 2019 – F EBRUA RY 2020

highlights

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

132 CONTENTS

32 116

10 E D I T O R ’ S L E T T E R 12 C ON T R I BU T OR S 16 N E W S F L A S H We round-up the most fascinating cultural experiences and unmissable festivals happening on our planet in the coming months, including Turkey’s famous MEVLÂNA FESTIVAL of whirling dervishes; Scotland’s HOGMANAY New Year’s Eve celebrations; one of the oldest surviving street festivals in the Caribbean, JUNKANOO; the Philippines’ colourful ATI-ATIHAN; Denmark’s renowned VINTERJAZZ fest, and the world’s most riotous carnival in Rio.

3 2 R E ST YOU R H E A D

160

The Cultured Traveller checks into super-luxe tented camp SHINTA MANI WILD in the Cambodian rainforest; PERRY LANE HOTEL in the historic heart of beautiful SAVANNAH in America’s deep south; boutique ecofriendly LON RESORT, 100 km south-

west of Melbourne; New Delhi’s reborn OBEROI; Lake Zürich’s swishy new contemporary boutique hotel ALEX, and the Paris of the East’s most expensive place to stay, BVLGARI HOTEL SHANGHAI.

98 SUITE ENVY During its 145-year history, BELMOND GRAND HOTEL EUROPE has welcomed to St. Petersburg more heads of state, VIPs, royal families and high-profile celebrities than any other. Joe Mortimer checks out the hotel’s sumptuous IMPERIAL PRESIDENTIAL SUITE – the city’s largest lodgings.

110 B O A R D I N G PA S S The Cultured Traveller takes a look around Beijing’s new architecturally stunning USD 12 billion DAXING AIRPORT, conceived by trailblazing architect Zaha Hadid before her death.

116 N O S H O E S R E Q U I R E D From his retreat-like base at AYURVEDA RESORT SONNHOF,

132

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

tucked away in a picture-postcard mountain valley surrounded by forests, Alex Benasuli finds that the Austrian hills are not only singing but positively pulsating with life.

13 2 S P O T L IGH T Alex Benasuli discovers in SEATTLE a vibrant oceanic city with a bustling downtown, charming neighbourhoods, a burgeoning foodie scene and a multitude of cultural attractions.

1 2 4 T R AV E L L E R L OW D OW N Punctuated by ancient forests, acres of desert, fertile vineyards, sandy beaches and snow-capped mountains, Sophia Amos, Harriet Ball and Rachel Santa Cruz take us on their ultimate winter road trip of NORTHERN CALIFORNIA.

14 6 T A S T E & S I P REVIEW Situated within Bvlgari Resort Bali, IL RISTORANTE – LUCA FANTIN, delights Carolyn McKay with an intimate gastronomic experience, deftly showcasing creative

interpretations of classic Italian fare.

110 16

16 0 T A S T E & S I P EXPERIENCE Nicholas Chrisostomou heads out of Cape Town to the winelands, to visit a sophisticated South African wine farm that hits multiple cultural notes.

16 4 S T Y L I S H GLOBETROTTER Take the hassle out of your Christmas shopping with The Cultured Traveller’s gift guide compiled by Adrian Gibson. Whether a chic gift for your loved one, a novelty present or a fun stocking filler, we have something to create a smile or two.

17 8 M U S I C & NIGHT LIFE Punk Marilyn, pop goddess and icon of cool – DEBBIE HARRY has been all these things and more. As the Blondie singer publishes her autobiography Face It, Paul Burston looks back at her extraordinary life.

18 6 L I T T L E BLACK BOOK

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EDITOR’ S LET TER

From left to right, Seattle’s Space Needle; Cape Town’s Zeitz MOCAA museum; Debbie Harry; Michel Roux Jr.

GOOD ARCHITECTURE has the power to regenerate a city, transform a destination or even put a country on the global travel map, especially when it comes to buildings that resonate with some sort of cultural significance. The Sydney Opera House is not only a great artistic monument, but also a symbol of the accessibility of culture to society at large, which is why it has become such a global icon. Similarly, Frank Gehry’s architectural marvel in Bilbao has shown the world the incredibly transformative power of art and architecture, especially when the two are used in tandem. The impact that the opening of Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa has had on Cape Town has been tremendous and far-reaching. South Africa’s first museum dedicated to contemporary art embodies a transformative narrative that came at a crucial time for the Rainbow Nation. And since it opened last year, the Zeitz MOCAA has propelled South Africa onto the global cultural stage and filled a void in Cape Town’s art scene. It is for these reasons that the museum is on the cover of this issue. The building is truly unique and Cape Town will undoubtedly feel its positive effects for decades to come. In this issue, guest contributor Robert Sherwood takes us on a tour of Cape Town’s best museums and art galleries (p60); Alex Benasuli finds that the hills of the Austrian Tirol really are alive, although not necessarily with the sound of music (p116); and Joe

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

Mortimer explores Saint Petersburg’s largest suite, set within the Russian city’s most storied hotel (p98). Because Christmas is just around the corner, fashion editor Adrian Gibson rounds-up an array of gift ideas including some novel stocking fillers (p164). As Blondie singer Debbie Harry publishes her autobiography, Paul Burston looks back at the extraordinary life of pop’s original ambitious blonde (p178), and Dawn Gibson checks out the immersive Tim Walker retrospective at London’s V&A (p170). We also chat with celebrated fashion designer Antonio Berardi (p188) and chef extraordinaire Michel Roux Jr. (p108). As you can see, we have launched into our sixth year freshly remodelled from coverto-cover, with a design that’s that’s bold, contemporary and accessible. I really hope that you enjoy The Cultured Traveller’s new look, and find the magazine’s pages as inspiring as I found Cape Town’s Zeitz MOCAA.

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief

CONTRIBUTORS

JOE MORTIMER

A L EX BENASU L I

➤ PARIS’ FOOD SCENE

➤ SPOTLIGHT ON SEATTLE

Joe is a UK-based travel writer and editor who specialises in luxury travel and high-end hospitality. Formerly editor of Destinations of the World News in Dubai, Joe now contributes to titles including National Geographic Traveler, Robb Report and Jetsetter, as well as a collection of prestigious in-flight and hotel magazines.

London-based Alex has been globetrotting his whole life. He has explored Europe, Asia and Africa as well as North and South America intimately. As passionate on a highbrow urban cultural break as he is on an off-the-beaten-track adventure, Alex uses travel to explore his love of history, design, nature and wellness.

PAU L B U R S T O N

C A R O LY N M c K AY

➤ DEBBIE HARRY PROFILE

➤ TASTE & SIP REVIEW

Paul Burston’s books include critically acclaimed psychological thrillers The Black Path and his latest, The Closer I Get. His journalism has appeared in The Guardian, The Sunday Times and other publications. He is the host of Polari literary salon at London’s Southbank Centre and founder of The Polari Book Prize.

Via her teaching, photography and writing, Carolyn has lived in Jakarta, London and New York and travelled to numerous destinations in between. Currently based in Sri Lanka and using her Indian Ocean base to explore Asia, Carolyn loves nothing more than exploring markets, quality coffee and people watching.

D AW N G I B S O N

ROBERT SHERWOOD

➤ TIM WALKER AT THE V&A

➤ CAPE TOWN CULTURE

Dawn Gibson is a globe-trotting journalist who has visited more than 30 countries and has yet to meet a cuisine she doesn’t like. Based near London, her recent adventures include a sojourn to England’s picturesque Peak District, where she discovered ridiculously large Yorkshire Puddings.

A Cape Town-based interior designer and gallery owner, Robert has worked on a variety of projects around the world, including hotels in the Middle East and even the airport in his hometown. A sought-after art consultant, assisting clients with their collections, art has played a major part in Robert’s life since childhood.

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

LOOKS BLING BLING, SOUNDS BOOM BANG TICKETS AVAILABLE ON WWW.ELBPHILHARMONIE.COM

Cultured T H E

T R AV E L L E R EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

N I C H O L AS C H R I S O STO M O U P U B L I S H E R C O C O L AT T É , LO N D O N FA S H I O N E D I T O R A D R I A N G I B S O N DESIGN STUART MANNING PICTURE EDITOR STELLA ALEVIZAKI THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS

Joe Mortimer, Alex Benasuli, Robert Sherwood Paul Burston, Carolyn McKay, Dawn Gibson WITH THANKS TO

Adam Martinovic, Electra Caralis, Sophia Amos, Harriet Ball, Rachel Santa Cruz, Martin B. Jones The Cultured Traveller magazine is published by Coco Latté, London, UK Advertising and sponsorship enquiries: ads@theculturedtraveller.com Editorial enquiries words@theculturedtraveller.com Subscription enquiries subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com

T H E C U L T U R E D T R AV E L L E R ➤ ISSUE 28 © 2019 Coco Latté. All rights reserved Reproduction in part or in whole of any part of this magazine is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of its respective contributors and writers and are not necessarily shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff. The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles, photographs or other materials submitted.

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newsflash CULTURAL

EXPERIENCES

FOR THE COMING MONTHS

SOMER SET H OUSE SK ATIN G CELEBRATING TWO DECADES of stylish skating at Somerset House this year, don your finest winter togs to trip the ice fantastic at Edmond J. Safra Fountain Court, which must surely be one of Europe’s most stunning locations to skate. No matter how advanced or amateur your skills, a visit to this 900-metre square outdoor rink will look the very picture of glamour in your Instagram posts! Skating by day is a veritable family affair with kids and parents of all ages on the ice. After sunset, “Skate Lates” feature a specially curated programme of music throughout the festive season, including takeovers by the likes of Hot Chip’s Joe Goddard, hip hop turntablist DJ Yodaand and London collective Krankbrother. Après skate, recharge at Fortnum & Mason’s Lodge, in the west wing of Somerset House, where you can munch on British classics like Welsh Rarebit and mince pies with clotted cream. Until 12 January 2020 ➤ www.somerset.org.uk

V I ENN A C H R I S T M A S MAR K ETS AUSTRIA’S MAJESTIC, REFINED and beautiful capital is a city of grand palaces, world-class art museums and elegant coffee houses. Formerly the epicentre of the AustroHungarian empire, the Austrian capital exudes stateliness, importance and respectability, yet, from mid-November onwards, Vienna’s prettiest squares are transformed into magical Christmas markets and an aroma of bakery items and hot punch creates a festive atmosphere throughout the city. There are truly few

places in Europe where the essence of the festive season is more alive than here. For Vienna Christmas World, the Rathausplatz becomes a twinkling fairytale land with a 150+ booths selling Christmas gifts, tree decorations, sweets and warm drinks. Visitors can also skate a 3,000m² ice rink and numerous paths through the park. Close by at the Christmas Village on MariaTheresien-Platz, visitors can buy traditional handicrafts and cutesy gifts. The Old Viennese Christmas Market on Freyung, in the heart of the city, dates back to 1772. Until 26 December 2019 ➤ www.wien.info

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

K R AMPUSN ACH T

M EV L Â N A FES TI VA L FEW PEOPLE HAVEN’T heard of Turkey’s famous whirling dervishes. The stuff of legends and famous the world over, Mevlâna attracts more than 100,000 visitors annually to the Anatolian city of Konya (an hour by plane from Istanbul) to commemorate the death of 13th-century Sufi poet, Mevlâna Celaleddin Rumi, one of the world’s great mystic philosophers. His work in poetry and religious writings are amongst the most cherished in Islam and beyond. Also known as Mevlâna, he is a best-selling poet in the USA with legions of loyal fans. Throughout this festival, mevlevi (also known as whirling dervishes) dressed in white robes with voluminous skirts, dance as if they are in a trance, under the observance of a seyh (master). Their performances can best be described as mesmerising and mystifying – the ecstatic spinning accompanied by orchestral music and chanting making for a truly spellbinding spectacle. The festival’s highlight is the last night, when the entranced dervishes spin to commemorate Mevlâna’s wedding night. 7–17 December 2019 ➤ www.mevlanamuzesi.com

DERIVED FROM THE German word krampen, meaning claw, and described in Bavarian folklore as a horned, anthropomorphic half-goat half-demon which haunts the central European mountainous region that supposedly birthed the creature, Krampus comes alive during an annual festival which spreads some not-so-merry pre-Christmas terror! Nowhere does this devil rampage more frighteningly than the town of Klagenfurt, the capital of the southern Austrian province of Carinthia, on the eastern shore of Lake Wörthersee. Here, the biggest and most rowdy Krampusnacht unfolds every year, brimming with ghastly demons quite literally everywhere. The highlight of Krampusnacht is essentially an alcohol-fuelled Krampuslauf race which winds through the pedestrian-friendly city centre, with a thousand alpine-jogging contestants dressed as scary, child-kidnapping, horned and furry devils. So terrifyingly demonic are Krampus costumes that a constant debate rages throughout the country involving a number of eminent psychologists, who want the creature banned from society because it is so scary for kids! 8 December 2019

BILLABONG PIPE MASTER S THE BILLABONG PIPE Masters is the last stop on the 2019 Men’s Championship Tour, designed to foster world-class performances around the globe, from Europe to the South Pacific. One of the ten most deadly waves in the world, Hawaii’s Banzai Pipeline is famous for its heavy swells that can reach up to 10 metres, breaking over shallow, rocky coral reefs at high speeds to form barrelling curls of water. Not only is it the perfect wave for those willing to charge, but also for onlookers on the beach watching the incredible spectacle and often death-defying boarding. Part of the allure of the Pipe Masters is that with surfing perfection occasionally come devastating consequences. The Banzai Pipeline is arguably one of the most dangerous waves on the planet and has claimed more lives than any other wave in the world, on average one fatality a year, not to mention numerous injuries and broken boards. 8–20 December 2019

➤ www.worldsurfleague.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

FÊTE D E S L U M I ÈRE S

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UPWARDS OF 3 MILLION PEOPLE flock to the French city of Lyon annually, to be dazzled by an incredible display of street and architectural illuminations that transform the cityscape into a sparkling wonderland. ➤ 5-8 December 2019

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

NEWSFLASH

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

H AR BIN ICE FESTIVAL RENOWNED FOR ONE of the most bitterly cold winters in China, Harbin is also known as the “Ice City” for its huge influx of winter tourists and extensive winter recreations, not to mention its world-famous ice and snow festival – the largest of its kind on the planet. It takes 15,000 ice sculptors and artisans, working painstakingly for weeks cutting 120,000 cubic metres of ice blocks from Songhua River’s frozen surface, to create the breathtaking illuminated iced sculptures and statues, plus full-size buildings and figures,

BU R NI NG TH E CL OC K S A BRIGHTON TRADITION for more than two decades, Burning the Clocks is a unique community event that brings together the entire south coast seaside city to mark the Winter Solstice. Created in 1994 by the award-winning community arts charity Same Sky as a way to celebrate the holiday spirit regardless of people’s religious beliefs, more than 20,000 spectators now routinely turn out to watch the 2,000-strong parade and take part in this unique event, which is essentially a peaceful yet dramatic rebellion against the modern-day excesses of Christmastime commercialism. Brighton locals make beautiful paper and willow star lanterns and after the procession that slowly snakes through the city, they put them into a blazing bonfire on Brighton beach to mark the end of the year. While the main event is free to attend, GBP 100 buys a pair of VIP wrist bands providing the very best view of the fire show and fireworks, right on the beachfront. 21 December 2019

➤ www.facebook.com/burningtheclocks

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

all dotted around the city. While the sculpture festival doesn’t open until the first week of January, two huge exhibition areas – Sun Island and Ice & Snow World – open just before Christmas, offering eager visitors everything from ice slides and Yabuli alpine skiing to snowmobile driving and winterswimming in the Songhua River. An abundance of more conservative winter attractions are also found in abundance throughout the city, including a traditional ice-lantern exhibition in Zhaolin Garden. 24 December 2019–25 February 2020

➤ www.icefestivalharbin.com

NEWSFLASH

JU NK A N O O THE HIGH POINT of the season for all Bahamians is when Nassau’s main artery, Bay Street, is transformed into a sea of sight and sound that delights and entertains all who experience Junkanoo. Tracing its roots to the music and dance spectacles of West Africa, Junkanoo is one of the oldest surviving street festivals in the Caribbean, dating back to the late 18th century. Legend has it that slaves of old decorated themselves using whatever scrap materials were available, the easiest to lay their hands on being paper and feathers, which were sewn onto their clothes. Meanwhile flour paste was used to paint their faces. Nowadays, Junkanoo is a wonderful celebration of life and freedom and the major cultural festival of the Bahamas. But you’ll need stamina to be part of Junkanoo, because each year it is celebrated in the early hours of the morning on Boxing Day, followed by the main event on New Year’s Day. 26 December 2019, 1 January 2020 ➤ www.bahamas.com/junkanoo

CARTAGENA MUSIC FES T IVAL

H OGMAN AY REPEATEDLY NAMECHECKED as one of the top one hundred things to do before you die, three days of spectacular events, big bands and electrified crowds from every corner of the globe come together in Edinburgh every year for one of the world’s biggest and best New Year’s Eve celebrations. See Shetland Vikings bearing fire lit torches, hear beautiful choral singing in St Giles’ Cathedral, enjoy birling to traditional Scottish music in the Old Town, and watch incredible fireworks from Princes Street Gardens. In years gone by, 150,000 revellers from over 70 countries have even been known to join hands for the world’s biggest rendition of Auld Lang Syne! This year’s jam-packed programme includes a street party hosted by Jonnie Walker with music by Love Island’s Aftersun DJs, The Mac Twins; Ronnie Scott’s Big Band performing in the magnificent surroundings of historic McEwan Hall, and Grammy and Oscar award-winner Mark Ronson bringing-in 2020 in the gardens. 30 December 2019–1 January 2020

FOR TEN DAYS every January, the historic Colombian walled city of Cartagena opens to the public some of its most charming, colonial indoor and outdoor spaces for its annual Festival Internacional de Music. Performances by classical musicians from around the world quite literally fill Cartagena with music, including Teatro Heredia, Plaza San Pedro Claver and the beautiful chapels of hotels Santa Clara, Santa Teresa and Iglesia de Santo Toribio. The festival program is divided into three, with the audience hearing music composed in Europe, New World music from different eras and European works with influences from unpublished New World languages. In 2020, the festival seeks to highlight the transition from classicism to early romanticism in Vienna – a period during which the figure of Franz Schubert had a particular role. So, five of the Viennese composer’s nine symphonies will be presented at the festival, along with works that reflect the emergence of a romantic sensibility. 4–12 January 2020 ➤ www.cartagenamusicfestival.com

➤ www.edinburghshogmanay.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

TA I WA N’S L A NTER N FES TI VAL

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EVERY YEAR, THOUSANDS of shining decorative lanterns, bearing the wishes of their owners, are released into the night skies over the small hillside village of Shifen in New Taipei county. ➤ 8-9 February 2020

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

NEWSFLASH

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

VIN TER J AZZ

ATI -ATI H A N FOR LOVERS OF all things mardi gras, Ati-Atihan is the Philippines’ most spectacular festival and its historical roots can be traced back to early settlers in Borneo. Whilst Filipinos are known worldwide for their gracious hospitality and friendly nature, this particular feast festival, held annually in January in honour of the Santo Niño (the Infant Jesus), allows visitors a glimpse of their wild, colourful and playful side, a facet of these devout and thoughtful people rarely seen in public. Ati-Atihan is a festival of constant movement, drumming and feasting – basically a non-stop riot of exhibitionism, costume, music and dance. Soot black-painted faces, feather headdresses and animal bones create a show-stopping visual treat throughout the proceedings. After days of relentless drumming and festivities, it’s nigh on impossible for even the most reluctant and restrained traveller not to get covered in soot and join in the raucous and romping all-night closing masquerade ball. 10-19 January 2020 ➤ www.atiatihan.ph

WAK AK USA YA MAYAK I A FORMER VOLCANO rising 342 meters above sea level, Mount Wakakusayama, in the Japanese city of Nara, is the location for this annual event held on the fourth Saturday of January, which sees the entire hill fired-up in a controlled burn. Following a parade that includes a giant rice cracker tossing competition, a torch is lit with sacred fire at Kasuga Taisha Shrine. Buddhist monks then carry the sacred fire down to a small shrine at the foot of the hill. First, interfaith members of Kofuku-ji, Todai-ji and Kasuga Taisha ignite the hill. Then hundreds of fireworks are launched, followed by the ritual burning of the hill, for roughly an hour, with the grasses on the slopes blazing as if a red hell is draped over the mountainside. When all of Mount Wakakusayama is eventually alight, like a gigantic flickering torch, unsurprisingly the fire can be seen from miles around. 25 January 2020 ➤ www.jnto.go.jp

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

SPANNING THE GAMUT from electronic to experimental, funk to free and mainstream to modern, Denmark’s world-renowned winter jazz festival has been thawing the Scandinavian chill with smoking tunes for more than fifteen years, gradually growing into one of the biggest European gatherings of the musical genre. Taking place over three weeks, there are more than 500 concerts to experience at 100+ different venues across Denmark. International stars on tour, new award-winning productions and different concert themes drop anchor in numerous of the country’s cities and suburbs. Hence, Vinterjazz very much kick-starts the season for the country’s clubs and helps keep the music playing throughout the year. Headlining the 20th anniversary edition of Vinterjazz is the Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra led by the internationally acclaimed multiple Grammy- and Pulitzer Prize-winning Wynton Marsalis (pictured), who is one of the world’s most outstanding jazz musicians and trumpeters of his generation. 6-29 February 2020 ➤ www.jazz.dk

The Capital Cub Dubai is the Business Hub of Dubai located in the heart of Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC). The Club attracts major Emirati, Expat & Finance businesses in the city.

Benefits of the club include: Entry to 100 reciprocal clubs worldwide Exclusive invitations to a wide range of club events Access to the corporate roster of members and members’ companies Conveniently located in the heart of the DIFC district For membership inquiries kindly contact mihaela.nina@capitalclubdubai.com“

A few reciprocal clubs include: British Club Singapore - Singapore Clubhouse Brera - Milan, Italy Cape Town Club - Cape Town & Johannesburg, South Africa Le Yacht Club – Beirut, Lebanon Princeton Club - New York, United States of America The Adelaide Club - Adelaide, Australia The Faculty Club - Toronto, Canada The Royal Scotts Club – Edinburgh, United Kingdom Please include an A4 photo of the club (outdoor) and 2 other photos (potentialA Private Members Business Club set in the heart of the DIFC. ly the Bollinger Garden with Emirates Towers in the background and one really Established in 2008 the UAE’s only Business with over goodClub meeting room1000 image) members including leading business figures from both Emirati and International background who have shaped and continue to develop the future of Dubai. With comprehensive hospitality and business facilities, excellent membership benefits, an extensive calendar of business and social events and over 100 reciprocal Clubs worldwide membership is open for applications from like minded souls from the Middle East and Overseas.

His Excellency Sheikh Nahayan Mobarak Al Nahayan, Minister of Tolerance, speaking at the Philosophy of Tolerance event (30th January 2019)

A few prestigious reciprocAl clubs below: the club at the ivy

London, United Kingdom

royal Automobile club

London, United Kingdom

the core club

New York, United States of America

the faculty club

Toronto, Canada

the sind club

Karachi, Pakistan

british club singapore

Bukit Tinggi Road, Singapore

For membership inquiries kindly contact membership@capitalclubdubai.com

V EN I CE CA R NI VA L

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ORNATELY DRESSED PARTYGOERS, dressed in magnificent 18th century costumes and ornate masks, pose for photos in Piazza San Marco en route to the carnival’s official ball, held at Venice’s majestic Ca’ Vendramin Calergi Palace. ➤ 8-25 February 2020

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

NEWSFLASH

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

S APPOR O S N OW F E STIVAL

S U PER BO W L 54

NOW ONE OF JAPAN’S most popular winter events, the first Sapporo Snow Festival was held in 1950, featuring just six snow statues built in Odori Park by local high school students. Since then, the event has snowballed into a winter wonderland which attracts more than two million people from around the world to the capital of the mountainous northern Japanese island of Hokkaido, a popular ski spot also known for its beer. The annual festival, known as Yuki Matsuri locally, is centred on Odori Park in downtown Sapporo, where giant sculptures of snow and ice are erected alongside a 1.5km trail that is illuminated at night. There are two other sites: Tsudome, a community dome with large snow slides and a tobogganing zone – where the festival starts a few days earlier on 31st January – and Susukino Ice World which provides an opportunity to touch and ride some of the sculptures. 31 January–11 February 2020 ➤ www.snowfes.com

THE MOST IMPORTANT day of the professional American football season, when millions of fans who can’t make it to the stadium are glued to the couch for the duration of what is often the most watched US television program of the year, Super Bowl LIV will be the 54th Super Bowl and the 50th modern-era National Football League championship game. It will decide the league champions for the 2019 NFL season, be played at Hard Rock Stadium in Miami, Florida and be broadcast live by CBS. Super Bowl’s halftime show has always attracted major talent: Janet Jackson had her infamous wardrobe malfunction in 2004. Coldplay, Beyoncé and Bruno Mars have also featured. Lady Gaga wowed in 2017 and last year Maroon 5’s Adam Levine brought his Jagger-like moves to the biggest televised musical event of the year. This year, for the first time ever, two pop mega stars will co-headline the halftime show: Jennifer Lopez and Shakira. 2 February 2020 ➤ www.nfl.com/super-bowl

BER LIN ALE FOUNDED IN WEST BERLIN in 1951 and celebrated annually since 1978, the seventieth anniversary of Europe’s best respected film festival will kick off at the Berlinale Palast on Thursday 20th February showing around 400 films of varying genres, lengths and formats in a variety of sections and special presentations, including a number of international or European premieres and new discoveries, plus promising talents from the German film scene. Straddling a broad spectrum – from feature films to documentaries and artistic experiments – the audience is invited to experience highly contrasting milieus, ways of life and attitudes, to test their own standpoints and prejudices and reinvigorate their experience of seeing and perceiving in the realm between classic narrative forms and extraordinary aesthetics. In addition, since the Berlinale programme positively thrives on discussion and contact with its audiences, a rich array of spoken-word events, audience discussions and expert panels facilitate an active dialogue throughout the festival. 20 February– 1 March 2020 ➤ www.berlinale.de

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

NEWSFLASH

R I O CAR N I VA L ATTRACTING MORE THAN two million people per day onto the streets of the famous Brazilian city, from different parts of the globe, Rio is considered the world’s biggest and most glittering carnival and the party of a lifetime for many, with those who attend prepared to samba the day and night away for five days straight. Beginning with the crowning of King Momo (the Fat King), who is presented with an over-sized silver and gold key by Rio’s mayor, street bands, dancers and party folk take over the squares and the streets as the festivities

get underway, led by traditional samba schools hailing from the city’s favelas. While the main parade at the Sambodromo might be the most iconic in the world, the real festivities happen in and around the streets, with more than 500 parties taking place across the city before and after carnival weekend, bringing the huge metropolis to a colourful and loud standstill. Be sure to catch a Bloco, sometimes called bandas, which are free street parties that take place throughout the city, plus at least one outrageous costume party. 21–25 February 2020 ➤ www.rio-carnival.net

BAR R AN QUIL L A CAR N IVAL THE START OF A NEW year is not just about fresh goals and aspirations for the people of Colombia, it also marks the beginning of carnival season. This vibrant, four-day extravaganza (the biggest in the world after Rio) may kick in late February, but the party atmosphere starts weeks earlier, when enthusiastic participants adding finishing touches to elaborate floats, and rehearsing dancers can be seen on Barranquilla’s streets. Pre-carnival events include the crowning of King Momo (the leader of carnivals) and the Carnival Queen, and the reading of the Lectura del Bando, which serves as a call for citizens to begin celebrating. The Queen leads the first day’s festivities with the main event - the Batalla de Flores - with spectators in fancy dress filling the streets, cheering the passing floats. The Grand Parade on day two features a multi-coloured mass of flamboyant characters bedecked in lavish costumes, all vying for a place in next year’s main event. 22–25 February 2020

➤ www.carnavaldebarranquilla.org

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TH E A CA D EM Y AWA RD S

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HONOURING THE BEST FILMS of 2019, broadcast live and beamed around the planet from the Dolby Theatre in Los Angeles, Hollywood’s night of nights is a prime opportunity for some serious star gazing as well as some good gossiping! Will you be watching the 92nd Oscars? ➤ 10 February 2020

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

NEWSFLASH

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

OU BAK ROTEH ➤ CAMBODIA

rest your S H I N TA MANI WILD

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CAMBODIA IS A VIBRANT LAND OF INCREDIBLE SIGHTS, scents, flavours and experiences. American architect Bill Bensley is renowned for his hospitality creativity, novel ideas and conceptualising unique hotels for a range of clients spanning the globe. Put these two together and you get Shinta Mani Wild - a super exclusive luxury tented camp, built along a river valley in the Cambodian rainforest within a private nature reserve of more than 300 hectares. Not the easiest place to reach, the adventure begins with a road trip from Phnom Penh (3 hours) or Sihanoukville (2½ hours) followed by 20 minutes in a 4x4 traversing rugged terrain. Once at the perimeter of the resort, adventurous guests are encouraged to take to the skies and whizz into Shinta Mani Wild via a 350 metre zipline over the forest canopy and Tmor Rung River, gliding in to touch down at the “Landing Zone Bar” (which juts out over a waterfall) where an expertly-prepared cocktail awaits. Those who prefer a more conventional arrival can of course opt for a jeep. If this all sounds a little Indiana Jones that’s because it is, but Shinta Mani Wild has been executed with a tasteful eccentricity that only Bensley knows how. Imagine Jackie Kennedy on a jungle safari and you’ll be on the same wavelength as Bensley. Skilfully combining first class eco-friendly design with some serious conservation goals, guests are accommodated in just 15 lavish tents, spaced sporadically along a long stretch of the river. Each feels like it is the only tent for miles around. The hefty room rates cover pretty much everything and include all food and drink, a bevy of camouflage-clad butlers at your beck and call, organic treatments in a thatched onsite spa, a multitude of experiences and guided tours and transfers over land from Phnom Penh or Sihanoukville airport. If you’ve ever had a jungle fantasy or fancied yourself as Tarzan for a weekend, Shinta Mani Wild is the place to live it out in wacky yet refined and tasteful luxury.

➤ www.bensleycollection.com/shintamani-wild

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

O F W H AT ’ S N E W, H O T A N D HAPPEN ING IN THE HOTEL WORLD ➤ OU BAK ROTEH ➤ KYOTO ➤ DUBAI ➤ S AV A N N A H ➤ P O I N T L O N S D A L E ➤ K E N D WA ➤ N E W D E L H I ➤ Z Ü R I C H ➤ SHANGHAI ➤ MELBOURNE ➤ PA R I S ➤ E A S T M O S E L E Y

ELISE HASSEY

head

OUR SEASONAL ROUN D -UP

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K Y O T O ➤ J A PA N

AMAN K YOTO

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FOR MORE THAN A MILLENNIUM UNTIL 1868, Kyoto served as the capital of Japan and the seat of its political, military and religious power. Therefore, the Japan of samurais and geishas, of grand temple complexes and sublime gardens, of mountain backdrops and crystal-clear streams and of cherry blossoms and autumn foliage are all evident in Kyoto, which combines big city sophistication with small town charm. The city’s glorious past and gorgeous nature-filled surroundings are literally waiting to be discovered around every corner, including 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Joining the brand’s two other upscale properties in Japan, Aman Kyoto opened last month, set in an exquisite secret garden within more than 30 hectares of wild forests at the bottom of the Hidari Daimonji mountain in the forested region of Takagamine. Aman Kyoto’s incredibly quiet location, in the northern district of the city approximately 60 minutes’ drive from Osaka International Airport, couldn’t be further removed from the tourist-filled temples in the city centre. Yet, probably Kyoto’s most famous site, Kinkakuji Temple’s Golden Pavilion, is just 15 minutes’ walk from Aman Kyoto. While the hotel grounds are liberally scattered with minimalist pavilions housing 26 spacious guest rooms, an Aman signature spa (where guests can soak in warming, mineral-rich hot spring onsen waters) and two top-notch onsite restaurants, the showstopper here is the gloriously calm and natural setting. Think towering cedar, cherry and maple trees punctuated with wild flowers, winding pathways and bright, green moss. The scenery is nothing short of magical. If younger guests tire of exploring the secluded grounds (which are part of what was once an artistic community that gave rise to the revered Rinpa school of painting four centuries ago), they can develop their creative talents with letter drawing, flower arranging and origami workshops. It seems that Aman, again, has thought of everything.

➤ www.aman.com/resorts/aman-kyoto

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

D U B A I ➤ UA E

M A N DA RIN O R I E N TA L J U M E I R A

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NOW BEING PUBLICISED IN DOZENS of countries by Black Eyed Peas singer and American rapper will.i.am, Dubai’s Expo 2020 is driving growth in the gleaming city-in-the-dessert as the emirate is pushing to complete more than 150,000 new hotel rooms in time to welcome an additional five million visitors expected during ‘The World’s Greatest Show’. Recently adding 256 rooms and suites to Dubai hospitality inventory is Mandarin Oriental’s first property in the UAE, located in the heart of Dubai, literally a stone’s throw from the water’s edge in one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods. Overlooking both the pristine Arabian Gulf and Dubai’s glittering skyline, Mandarin Oriental Jumeira is probably the closest luxury beachfront resort to Downtown Dubai and many of the city’s main attractions. 15 minutes in a taxi from the hotel and you’ll find yourself at the Burj Khalifa and Dubai Opera. Arriving guests are greeted by door staff attired in standout blue fedoras and frock coats as they enter a massive, forest-inspired lobby,

where hundreds of leaf-shaped lights, crafted from hand-blown crystal, are attached to two parallel rows of bronze trees. The sight is striking if not slightly OTT, but since Dubai is all about making an entrance, interior designer Jeffrey Wilkes is on the money. Beyond the lobby, the parallel rows continue outdoors toward the beach with lines of real palm trees. This is an arrival experience like few others in Dubai. Throughout the property, contemporary layering of patterns and textures, warm woods and marble create a minimalist design, which is balanced by a sumptuous colour palette and peppered with contemporary touches to remind guests that they are in multicultural Dubai. Complete with a serene spa, five swimming pools, a state-of-theart fitness centre, a “Movement Studio” featuring the first Outrace equipment in a Dubai hotel, multiple bars and six restaurants, Mandarin Oriental Jumeira offers literally everything a well-to-do globetrotter could possibly need during a stay in the U.A.E.’s most vibrant city.

➤ www.mandarinoriental.com/dubai

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

dine with us. stay with us

nobuhotelloscabos.com

S AVA N N A H ➤ U S A

PERRY L ANE HOTEL

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ESTABLISHED IN 1733 ON A MAJOR RIVER in the southeastern United States and positively brimming with Southern charm, Savannah is the oldest city in the state of Georgia and its rich history makes it a simply lovely place to visit. Renowned for its manicured parks, horse-drawn carriages and mid19th century pre-war architecture, Savannah’s historic district is filled with cobblestoned squares and beautiful green spaces shaded by old oak trees covered with Spanish moss. Set in two buildings facing each other across Perry Lane, on the southern side of Savannah’s historic district, the architecture blends in so well that at first glance it’s hard to tell whether they are new builds or renovated properties. But new builds they are, constructed so conscientiously (with the input of local artisans) that the hotel sits completely naturally within its famous surrounds. It took NYC real

estate development firm Flank five years of carefully studying the local lifestyle, not to mention an awful lot of research, to get the Perry Lane Hotel just right. Inside, the decor is warm and residential with a whiff of retro, particularly in the public spaces which abound with comfy leather seating, eclectic artwork and vintage maps. Upstairs, the 167 crisp and uncluttered guest rooms (including 12 luxurious suites) sport gorgeous beds, Turkish rugs, leather chairs and rain showers. Meanwhile, up on the roof, a plush swimming pool open year-round and “Peregrin” bar boast stunning 360-degree views of the city’s skyline. The perfect base from which to explore one of America’s most picturesque states makes Perry Lane Hotel a must if you’re touring the USA. ➤ www.perrylanehotel.com

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L O N R E T R E AT & S PA

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MARKED BY A TRADITIONAL LIGHTHOUSE erected more than a hundred years ago, Point Lonsdale is situated on a rocky outcrop at the south-eastern end of the Bellarine Peninsula in the Australian state of Victoria, 100 km south-west of Melbourne or just over an hour’s drive from the big city. Boasting everything from rugged coastal bike trails to wineries and five-star lodgings, Melbourne’s western peninsula has stood in the shadow of its eastern cousin (the Mornington) for too long. But in recent years savvy travellers have begun to realise that the Bellarine coastal region has just as much to offer. At the end of a long, winding driveway, hidden away on a hill by the ocean and set on over 200 acres of rural and conservation land, adult-only Lon Retreat & Spa was once an old bed and breakfast until the sixth generation of the Gemes family decided to give the property a dramatic overhaul. The original main building may remain, but the interior spaces have been dramatically revamped. The sympathetic design of this eco-friendly retreat tastefully brings the great outdoors in, courtesy of floor-to-ceiling windows, a wood-burning stove and smooth concrete which

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ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

gently contrast with timber ceilings, hand-crafted furniture and a colour palette that reflects the beautiful surrounding farmland. Influenced by the Bellarine, the artwork was produced by a variety of local artists. Wallpapers are inspired by the Wathawurung Aborigines who originally inhabited the area. The gin in the honesty bar is locally produced. Lon’s seven contemporary suites are liberally scattered throughout the sandstone retreat, each with its own unique, earthy style inspired by its surroundings, named after a type of cloud and decorated with colours taken from the fields, sea and sky. Some have private courtyard gardens while others have two bedrooms. All have a lounge, fireplace, heated flooring, kitchenette, king-sized bed, rain shower, mineral water-fed stone bath, a Weber barbecue and incredible vistas of the peninsula’s rolling dunes. The landscape pretty much persuades you to slow right down, take a load off and pause for thought, which is precisely what Lon’s owners encourage and the environment is perfect for this purpose. Once you’ve stocked the fridge, got the fire going and put on some soothing music, you honestly may never want to leave Lon.

➤ www.lonretreat.com.au

K E N D WA ➤ Z A N Z I B A R , TA N Z A N I A

ZU RI Z ANZIBAR HOTEL

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WHILE ZANZIBAR IS JUST A 35 KM HOP from mainland Tanzania, life on this semi-autonomous archipelago is completely different. Its politics, religion, culture and even the local fare varies from its East African motherland. Zanzibar also pretty much has it all within the bounds of its idyllic islands, not least spectacular scenery and stunning, white sand beaches. It’s a place where visitors can escape, explore or do a bit of both in secluded, intimate and fun surroundings. Set on the main island of Unguja – 50 km from the airport on a 300 metre stretch of private, sunset-facing beach on the northern west coast – Zuri Zanzibar eco-resort is the Tanzanian archipelago’s first Design Hotels’ member and delivers Afro-chic style with panache.

High-end design is evident everywhere, not least in resort’s 56 suites, bungalows and villas fashioned by Jestico + Whiles. Hidden in a large tropical garden, all are set above the ground, to protect the native flora and fauna, and clustered together in the style of a traditional African village. Dressed in warm, Tanzanian teak and topped with thatched or shingled roofs, each boasts luxe furnishings, indoor/outdoor bathrooms and is within a short walk of the Indian Ocean’s azure waters. Four bars and three restaurants offer a fusion of European, African, Arabic and Indian cuisines. So many onsite gastronomic options, within the bounds of Zuri’s gorgeous 5-hectare hospitality domain, mean that guests need never leave the resort, let alone think about shoes for the duration of their stay. ➤ www.zurizanzibar.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

NEW DELHI ➤ INDIA

THE OBEROI, NEW DELHI

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DESPITE THE FACT THAT INDIA’S CAPITAL has been continuously inhabited since the 6th century BCE and has served as the first city of various kingdoms and empires throughout its history, what New Delhi is most famous for today is its shockingly bad and much-publicised pollution. But one of the city’s hotels has taken the dramatic and costly step of ensuring that its in-house guests can breathe freely in the knowledge that its air is clean and harmless. Set in more than five acres of attractively landscaped gardens off a busy road in one of city›s most fashionable areas, overlooking the 16th century tomb of Emperor Humayun, The Oberoi is a much-storied hospitality landmark, having been welcoming guests for more than fifty years. Built from the ground up by the group’s owning family, when The Oberoi first opened in 1965, it was the first property in India to offer butlers, 24-hour room service and a 24-hour restaurant. For a time, it was renowned as the poshest place to rest one’s head in the whole of India. Today, the hotel has been reimagined by way of a major two-year top-

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

to-bottom makeover costing a reputed USD 100 million. The result is a chic, contemporary incarnation of the enduring hotel’s former self, married with a more modern sense of style courtesy of New Yorkbased hospitality designer Adam Tihany. The number of keys has been reduced from 283 to 220 to provide larger guest rooms with more spacious baths. The Wi-Fi is now lightning fast throughout. Indoor and outdoor pools plus a Zen-like spa offer countless possibilities for relaxation and rejuvenation. Holistic treatments combine aromatherapy, Eastern and Western influences and there is free yoga every morning. And, most importantly from a health perspective, a sophisticated indoor air purification system prevents the entry of harmful air particles into the hotel. It would be a shame to never visit such a historic city at least once in your lifetime. Now you can stay at luxury lodgings in New Delhi safe in the knowledge that you are breathing the cleanest air possible, while you are indoors at least!

➤ www.oberoihotels.com/hotels-in-delhi

ALEX

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PUNCTUATED BY THE HISTORIC TOWER of St Peter Kirche dominating its picture postcard skyline, Zürich has been gently buzzing with gradual transformation since the makeover of its former industrial district into a vibrant cultural corner in the west of the city. Today, Switzerland’s largest and wealthiest metropolis is efficiently run, visually pleasing and more culturally alive than ever before, making it one of Central Europe’s coolest city-break destinations. However, until recently, it has to be said that the majority of Zurich’s top-end hotels veered towards old school and a tad stuffy. Without naming names, you would have been hard pushed to find a stylish place to stay among the city’s 5-star properties. Thankfully this has now changed with the arrival of uber-cool Alex, a CampbellGray hotel positioned on Lake Zurich’s western shore in Thalwil, 5 km from the city centre. It is ALEX’s unique location – sitting directly on the water’s edge – which makes it one of the chicest places to stay in Zürich today. Huge expanses of glass fronting the hotel’s destination

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

Boat House restaurant, terrace and bar, open 365 days per year, make the most of its enviable setting. Here you will find some of the best and most reasonably priced classic fare in Zürich, served morning, noon and night. Upstairs, London-based designers BradyWilliams – the talented duo behind a number of Corbin & King restaurants – have bedecked the hotel’s 44 generously proportioned studios and penthouses with timber flooring, soft linens, kitchenettes and French doors that open directly onto glorious lake views. Shower rooms are spacious, chic and function perfectly. Black-out blinds electrically glide into place to ensure a restful sleep. Every conceivable mod-con has been built-in but doesn’t feel gimmicky in any way. On the contrary, the overall effect is one of class and sophistication married with a connectivity to the water that may be unsurpassed anywhere else around Lake Zürich.

➤ www.campbellgrayhotels.com/

alex-lake-zurich

ZÜRICH ➤ SWITZERLAND T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

SH A NGH A I ➤ C H I NA

BVLGARI HOTEL SHANGHAI

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IN RECENT YEARS, A NUMBER OF SWISHY NEW HOTELS have opened in the Paris of the East – the most notable among them being Capella, Edition, Middle House and Amanyangyun – meaning that Shanghai now caters much better to the needs of premium travellers. Positioned on the scenic banks of Suzhou Creek just a few minutes’ walk from the Bund, Bvlgari Hotel Shanghai is the latest high-end property to throw open its glamorous doors in China’s most cosmopolitan city. With room rates more than double that of its nearest super luxury competitor, Bvlgari’s newest hotel is already attracting China’s mega rich to its hallowed granite, leather and bronze-clad portals. Occupying six floors towards the top of a 48 storey Italian-designed tower (which is also home to Bvlgari residences), the hotel is linked to the now completely restored 1916-built Neoclassical renaissance former chamber of commerce building. This attachment to a historic Shanghai building cleverly bestows a sense of place upon the slick new hotel. Elegantly combining a sophisticated palette of creams and ambers with dark timber floors and mirror-glossy black lacquered furniture in its 63 indulgent rooms and 19 exquisite suites, all accommodation soars above the city bridging Shanghai’s historic past with 21st century hospitality design and luxurious facilities. And being the only high-rise in the neighbourhood affords guests unsurpassed views of the Pudong skyline, Bund and surrounding area.

➤ www.bulgarihotels.com/shanghai

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

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Paris- -Opéra Opéra- -Place Placede del’Opéra, l’Opéra,44rue rueMeyerbeer Meyerbeer--75009 75009Paris Paris--T:+33 T:+33(0)1 (0)177 7748 4894 9494 94 WWParis

M E L B O U R N E ➤ AU S T R A L I A 46

U N IT E D P L AC ES

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OFTEN REFERRED TO AS AUSTRALIA’S CULTURAL CAPITAL and the most European metropolis of the antipodes, it is doing Melbourne a disservice to consider it merely as ‘Australia’s second city’. It may be less known and marginally less populous than Sydney, but the capital of the state of Victoria is a unique and delightfully modern world city complete with a genuinely kind, welcoming heart and an elegant, Victorian charm. Melbourne combines in one city all the elements that appeal to a seasoned traveller: intriguing streetscapes mixing contemporary design with handsome 19th century terrace houses and glorious art deco landmarks; a world-renowned foodie scene that includes some of the best restaurants you could ever wish to raise a fork in; an established bar culture and exciting nightlife; internationally revered art galleries and covetable designer fashion; shopping destinations which tug insistently on the purse strings and lush parks and sprawling gardens. While Melbourne boasts a vast range of hotels catering to every

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

type of visitor, few, if any, are truly individual or privately-owned and run. So, to stay at bijou boutique hotel United Places is truly a breath of hospitality fresh air. Located in South Yarra (one of Melbourne’s most picturesque suburbs), to be a guest at United Places is to enjoy Melbourne like a local, which, as every cultured traveller knows, is the best way to see any city and experience its authenticity. The brainchild of Melbourne local Darren Rubenstein, who fused his travel, hospitality and design experience to create United Places, this unique property offers its guests a truly personal and curated approach to the services it provides. With only a dozen beautifully executed suiwtes (including three, two-bedroom penthouses), staying at United Places is a calm, intimate and stylish experience. And returning to such sophisticated, fuss-free lodgings – after a day in the city or an evening out on the town in vibrant Melbourne – feels much like arriving back at the chic home of a well-to-do globetrotting friend. ➤ www.unitedplaces.com.au

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TUCKED BETWEEN THE HISTORIC BOURSE and hip Sentier neighbourhoods in the second arrondissement, on first impressions it seems that Hôtel des Grands Boulevards is located on a street which is way too hectic for a sophisticated stay to be even vaguely possible. Thankfully, we soon discover that the hotel is to be found at the end of a short, discreet passage, out of earshot of the riotous happenings on busy Boulevard Poissonnière. The latest Parisian lifestyle property from the Experimental Group, Hôtel des Grands Boulevards was built shortly after the French Revolution and was once a cinema before becoming a bourgeois residence and now a boutique hotel brimming with history. Marrying 18th century Parisian elegance with slightly off-the-wall accents and retro touches, design whizz Dorothée Meilichzon found

PA R I S ➤ F R A N C E

HÔTEL DES GRANDS B O U L E VA R D S inspiration in a French queen of old for her interior decor scheme, which sees elegant canopy beds and rustic nightstands paired with bevelled mirrors and velvet headboards in the hotel’s 50 guest rooms. Ranging in size from cosy “Petit Boulevard” to “Grand Boulevard”, every room offers 300 thread count sheets, vintage-styled Revo radios, VoIP phones for free calls, mirror TVs, espresso machines (de rigueur in Paris), organic coffee and large bathrooms. Downstairs, a retractable glass ceiling tops the Grand Restaurant where chef Giovanni Passerini revisits the great classics of FrenchItalian country cooking using local fresh and organic produce. After dinner, head up to the hotel’s hidden rooftop bar, The Shed, to relax with an expertly crafted cocktail away from the hustle and bustle of the big city. ➤ www.grandsboulevardshotel.com

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ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

EAST MOSELEY ➤ UK

KINGS ARMS HOTEL

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CONTAINING ALMOST A KILOMETRE OF PATHS and planted sometime between 1689 and 1695 by George London and Henry Wise for William III of Orange, Hampton Court Maze is England’s oldest surviving hedge maze and has been baffling visitors for more than three centuries. Located within Hampton Court Palace in the London borough of Richmond upon Thames, the maze is just a small part of more than 60 splendid acres of enchanting gardens which surround the palace and typify this beautifully leafy part of the British capital. Opposite the Royal Deer Park, adjacent to Hampton Court’s 17th century Lion Gates and backing onto the palace’s world-famous maze, Kings Arms Hotel boasts a storied past, dating back hundreds of years, which is almost as fascinating as its royal neighbour. Having been a pub, hotel or inn since the early 18th century (if not earlier), the landmark, Grade II listed building is almost certainly the oldest surviving business in the area. Privately acquired a few years ago and having since undergone an extensive, two-year top-to-toe refurb, the reimagined Kings Arms re-opened earlier this year as a 14-room boutique hotel, incorporating a rather splendid restaurant called The Six, whose menu was conceptualised by fast-rising Michelin-starred chef Mark Kempson (of Kitchen W8 fame) and uses fresh veggies and herbs from Hampton Court Palace’s kitchen garden. Also, on the ground floor, are an inviting lounge, multiple bars and a semi-private dining room for special occasions. Out front, a spacious, enclosed private terrace – fashioned by landscape designer Christine Wilford – provides ample seating for guests to dine and drink al fresco in the summer months. Upstairs, given the historic nature of the building, guest rooms naturally differ in size and shape. Some boast bay windows overlooking the terrace to the front, while others gaze upon the famous maze behind the property. All are hung with interesting original works or limited edition prints by a variety of up-andcoming Zimbabwean artists, including Kudzanai Chiurai and May Sibande. Curtains are made from stunning printed botanical and nature-themed velvets courtesy of Boho & Co. Super-comfy beds are made-up with top quality linens, and slick en-suites feature mosaiced rain-showers and full-size Jenny Betts toiletries. It’s easy to forget that the British capital is surrounded by a multitude of parks and magnificent belts of lush green countryside. Spending a weekend at the Kings Arms Hotel will give you a different perspective on London, which you may just enjoy more than Covent Garden!

➤ www.kingsarmshamptoncourt.com

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WIN a luxury four-night stay at intercontinental bali resort

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NESTLED AMONGST LUSH TROPICAL GARDENS alongside a stretch of white sand beach, recently renovated InterContinental Bali Resort deftly immerses its guests in the ambiance of a tranquil Balinese village. One of the most renowned and enduring hotels on Jimbaran Bay, this five-star deluxe property was the first of its kind to be built on the bay’s beautiful shores to best enjoy the island’s stunning sunsets. The recipient of multiple international awards, InterContinental Bali Resort seamlessly accommodates the needs of every type of visitor. And traditional Balinese architecture, seamlessly interwoven with modern conveniences, provides guests with a diverse array of world-class facilities onsite. Set within its own private wing and secluded enclave, complete with exquisite gardens, the resort’s premium Club InterContinental is an exclusive haven offering discerning, cultured travellers a luxurious ‘resort within a resort’ to further enrich and elevate their InterContinental Bali Resort stay experience. ➤ www.bali.intercontinental.com

P R IZ E D R AW TO ENTER Email your contact details to ➤ win@theculturedtraveller.com The draw will take place after 1st March 2020 and the winner will be notified via email. This prize can be used any time before 31st December 2020 subject to availability when booking. Blackout dates apply. This prize is not transferable to another person. The Cultured Traveller will not share your details with third parties. Multiple entries will be disqualified and completely excluded from this draw. All entrants will be added to The Cultured Traveller’s mailing list.

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THE AFRICAN C U LT U R A L

RETURNING AFTER ALMOST A DECADE, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU FINDS AN I N T E N S E LY E N E R GI S E D C I T Y R E B O R N ➤ 52

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T O W N CONTINENTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

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HE PORT CITY OF CAPE TOWN has always been an entertaining, edgy and happening place to visit. Its spectacular location, in the shadow of larger-than-life Table Mountain at the northern end of the Cape Peninsula bordered by impressive scenery, gorgeous beaches and miles of magnificent coastline, has permanently bestowed upon South Africa’s most vibrant metropolis the status of the continent’s most visually pleasing city. Near-vertical cliffs falling into the cold, crystal-clear waters of the Atlantic on Cape Town’s west and the much warmer jadecoloured waters of the Indian Ocean to the city’s east, make for an inimitable cityscape that cannot be matched by any other metropolis on the planet. If you are lucky enough to see Cape Town through the window as you come in to land, that first glimpse is indelible. The city’s setting is truly incomparable. Boasting a diverse topography and an inordinate variety of striking natural wonders, nature lovers can hike, bike, climb, glide, boat, surf, swim, explore and much more, all within the city’s limits. None other of the world’s cities-on-the-sea can offer such a huge range of activities. Moreover, the Western Cape is brimming with opportunities to be outdoors all year round, and it never gets European cold, not even in the winter months. The country’s apartheid past, by which black people were institutionally segregated and excluded from cities – especially from Cape Town where the government maintained they had no historical right to live – today provides a number of tourist sites for history buffs to visit, including Robben Island, seven kilometres off the city’s coast in Table Bay. It was here that ➤

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You have to stay here at least once in your lifetime. Situated on a private quay uniquely poised between Cape Townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vibrant V&A Waterfront and the tranquil yacht marina, Cape Grace is the ideal retreat from where to enjoy the splendor of the Mother Cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural and cultural beauty, as well as the warmth of our people. Cape Grace Hotel info@capegrace.com V & A W a t e r f r o n t , C a p e To w n , S o u t h A f r i c a

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South Africa’s first democratically elected president – Nelson Mandela – spent 18 years incarcerated in prison. However, for all its historical and natural allure, and despite being repeatedly name-checked as the world’s most beautiful city, until relatively recently Cape Town could not compete on a cultural level with its international peers, particularly in terms of art. For this reason, it was always considered by many to be a tourists’ playground and a “fun” place to visit, rather than highbrow or sophisticated in cultural terms. But, the recent emergence of a cutting-edge art scene, crowned by the 2017 unveiling of a world-class museum and uber-cool adjoining district, have shaken everything up and catapulted Cape Town onto the world’s artistic stage where it now has a permanent seat. IT HAS BEEN NINE YEARS SINCE I LAST VISITED Cape Town. A distinct lack of cultural substance, an everpresent division along racial lines and a noticeable increase in Cape Town’s crime rate are the reasons I stopped visiting at around the time of the 2010 FIFA World Cup. Before then, I

literally couldn’t get enough of the place. A combination of the South African sun, the city’s party spirit, superb food, jumping bars and a favourable exchange rate routinely combined to continuously draw me back to Cape Town year-in-year-out for a decade. But when my safety and cultural hunger outweighed my need to party, it was time to give the city a break. South Africa’s crime rate is notorious and I began to feel it in 2010. It must be mentioned at the outset of planning to visit Cape Town, one must get to grips with the flaws underneath its intensely picturesque façade from the get-go. As visitors we cannot fix inequality or help the poor in any country we visit. Like an elephant in the room, in Cape Town there’s no getting away from it. We can only hope that our tourist Pounds will in some way seep down to those who need it most. When I return to South Africa in 2019, I soon find that Cape Town still has the ability to surprise. And surprise me it does, mostly by its art and culinary scenes. Thanks in large part to The Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (Zeitz MOCAA), the gritty Silo District and an electrified food scene helmed by a new generation of innovative chefs, I find an energised city reborn as the Rainbow Nation’s cultural capital. Even crime appears to be under control, ➤

Nelson Mandela at Robben Island

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perhaps thanks to a new network of more than 1,500 CCTV cameras and visibly more police in touristic areas. Despite the obvious inequity between the wealthy and the rest of its 4 million Capetonians, the city feels safer. I walk the streets of the CBD alone and browse the shops and galleries. Cape Town feels different and art has everything to do with it. BUILT IN 1921, CAPE TOWN’S FAMOUS GRAIN SILOS were the industrial heart of the city’s harbour area for the best part of a century and the nation’s tallest buildings for a long time. They were also a geographical landmark for millions of South Africans. Everyone knew the unsightly grey concrete building in the middle of Cape Town, which was bizarrely listed as a UNESCO world heritage site. So, when British architectural genius Thomas Heatherwick spent ZAR 500 million carving a thrilling museum out the silos, the first such institution of its kind in Africa, anchored by a show-stopping cathedral-like atrium celebrating art, everybody noticed and the city was changed, for the better, forever. Named after Jochen Zeitz – the former CEO of Puma whose art forms the basis of its permanent collection – when Zeitz MOCAA opened two years ago, I doubt that anyone foresaw the magnitude of the effect the museum would have, not just on the city of Cape Town and the country of South Africa, but on the African continent. Zeitz MOCAA has utterly transformed the cultural landscape of Cape Town and its artistic influence is being felt throughout Africa. For want of a better analogy, Zeitz MOCAA has become South Africa’s Tate Modern and its cultural spell is far reaching. Where contemporary African art was once limited to small, private galleries, it is now one of the hottest artistic genres on the planet and being shown in every notable museum on the world stage. And all of this is feeding back into Cape Town, resulting in an electrification of its art scene like never before and a new-found citywide cultural momentum. Furthermore, the energy being generated by Zeitz MOCAA is fuelling many other cultural facets of Cape Town, not least gastronomy, which has taken-off Concorde-style in recent years.

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BORN IN ENGLAND AND TRAINED IN SWITZERLAND, Luke Roberts is just one of a new breed of owner-chefs who have been reinvigorating Cape Town’s restaurants with a fresh approach, new flavours and exciting concepts. A scene which was largely dominated by traditional and often fuddy-duddy food and beverage offerings when I last visited the city, is now positively bursting with new talent and culinary creativity, so much so that I cannot possibly visit all the restaurants I really want to during my 10-day stay. Decided by over 1,000 respected chefs, food writers and gourmands, for the fifth consecutive year, Roberts’ Test Kitchen restaurant in Cape Town was included in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. But what Roberts is doing to Cape Town’s food scene is just the tip of the city’s gastronomic iceberg. In the past few years, the world-wide gin craze has also landed in South Africa, making the most of the abundance of unique fynbos indigenous to the region. The Western Cape is more botanically diverse than the richest tropical rainforest in South America, and many of its 9,300 species of fynbos pair rather well with gin’s essential ingredient, the juniper berry. Consequently, there are now more than 50 registered gin distilleries countrywide, at least 30 of which are in the Western Cape, and some 200 gins are produced in South Africa, many of which are world-class. The marriage of a booming art scene with first-class wines, charming wine estates and a myriad of new and exciting eateries, makes visiting Cape Town an outstandingly attractive proposition to culture vultures who thrive on art, good food and fine wine. Now sporting a vitality that has never been so evident before, Cape Town today is a dynamic city on the cultural rise awash with creative energy and an intensely artistic spirit. Visit now to soak it all in and you will almost certainly leave the Mother City thoroughly culturally satiated.

C A P E TOW N ’ S WO R L D - C L A SS ART SCENE IN TERIOR DE SIGN ER A N D ART A F FICIONA DO ROB E RT SH E RWO OD ROU N D S -U P S OM E OF CAPE TOW N ’ S BE ST GALLERIE S

AVING BEEN BORN IN THE LATE 60S to creative parents in Cape Town, at a time when South Africa was renowned for its politics rather than its art scene, it has been fascinating to see how the city’s artistic landscape has changed, developed and matured over the years. More recently, it has been a pleasure to share my passion for art, with visitors from around the world, at my Bree Street showroom. Witnessing so many people descend upon the Mother City, to enjoy the burgeoning art and design scene that has proliferated in the past few decades, has been a treat. A number of exceptionally good artists have always lived and worked in and around Cape Town and a few galleries have remained loyal in showcasing their work. Founded in 1872 with a donation of 45 paintings from Sir Thomas Butterworth, the Iziko South African National Gallery has grown into a staple of the Cape Town art scene, where you can see a good mix of old masters and contemporary works which creates an interesting discussion between the past and present. The museum’s beautiful setting in historic Company’s Garden – originally created in 1650 to replenish ships rounding the Cape – is further reason to visit. ➤ www.iziko.org.za Two major institutions have recently added hugely to Cape Town’s artistic credibility, one of which is the Zeitz Museum ➤

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of Contemporary African Art (MOCAA). Designed by multiaward-winning British architect Thomas Heatherwick, the museum is housed within the V&A Waterfront’s old grain silos and is a nothing short of a modern architectural masterpiece. Complete with a jaw-dropping entrance, Zeitz MOCAA’s 33 metre-high central atrium, cut out of towering old concrete grain silos, is truly a sight to behold. Running until 23rd March 2020, the museum’s current William Kentridge exhibition, Why Should I Hesitate: Putting Drawings to Work, showcases more than 40 years of the internationally acclaimed artist’s output. ➤ www.zeitzmocaa.museum

The other major Cape Town art player is Norval Foundation, housed within a striking contemporary pavilion in the southern suburb of Steenberg. The brainchild of founder Louis Norval – a South African businessman with a very keen interest in local art – the foundation is home to the Homestead Art Collection. Assembled by the Norval family over two decades, this leading collection of 20th century South African art is one of the world’s best. Presently, Norval is showcasing two decades’ worth of three-dimensional works by William Kentridge, in Why Should I Hesitate: Sculpture, which runs until 23rd March 2020 in tandem with his exhibition at Zeitz MOCAA. Both are unmissable. ➤ www.norvalfoundation.org It is worthwhile mentioning that Zeitz MOCAA and Norval largely came about due to what preceded them, namely a vibrant art and gallery scene. The city is incredibly lucky to have gallerists who go to great lengths to promote work by South African artists. Not especially grouped together in one ➤

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area (although Woodstock is home to many), these galleries are dispersed throughout the city and surrounding winelands. Run by Justin Rhodes and Ashleigh McLean, WHATIFTHEWORLD recently moved into a cool, new space in Buiten Street. Recognised both within South Africa and internationally, what stands out about this gallery is its skill for displaying world-renowned artists alongside those just starting out and fortunate enough to have caught the eye of Rhodes and McLean, who are both committed to developing innovative local talent. Very active overseas, you may well have seen WHATIFTHEWORLD at The Armory Show in New York or 1-54 in London. A star of the gallery is Athi-Patra Ruga, whose tapestry and photographic pieces have been shown in most major cities. ➤ www.whatiftheworld.com Pre-eminent since 1966, Goodman Gallery’s home, in a former industrial building in Woodstock, is a traditional white cube space which hosts exhibitions of some of the major players in the South African and African art scenes, including William Kentridge. ➤ www.goodman-gallery.com Also located in Woodstock and founded in 2003, Stevenson’s exhibition openings are always hot ticket events, since this gallery has a unique viewpoint and showcases the work of an interesting array of diverse artists. In particular, Nandipha Mntambo’s work using cowskin is ground-breaking. Wim Botha’s fractured bronzes are just one highlight of his long career. ➤

FOU R DEC A DE S OF A RT M A K I NG 19 75 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2 019

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And another heavyweight of Stevenson’s stable, Johannesburgbased Nicholas Hlobo’s large sculptural works, have attracted much attention internationally. ➤ www.stevenson.info THE CENTRE OF CAPE TOWN IS ALSO HOME TO A number of smaller galleries that play an important role in diversifying the city’s art scene. A number of great spaces along Church Street veritably burst at the seams every First Thursday – an initiative started a few years ago, which sees the city’s galleries and shops stay open until late on the first Thursday monthly. If you happen to be in Cape Town on First Thursday, do come into the CBD and see what everyone is showing. ➤ www.first-thursdays.co.za If you venture out of town to the Cape Winelands – particularly to Stellenbosch and Franschhoek – you will be surprised by the amount of art on display alongside exceptional wines to be tasted. A number of wine estates have a distinctly artistic lean, including Delaire Graff, Grande Provence and Cavalli.

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Given the vast assortment of art on offer, Franschhoek’s main road will almost certainly have you gallery hopping! A major force in the South African art world and the oldest commercial player on the continent, dropping into Everard Read’s Franschhoek gallery is not an option. ➤ www.everard-read-franschhoek.co.za

For discerning travellers, the mix of visiting Cape Town museums and galleries in the centre, and spending a few days in the winelands, makes for an unforgettable, cultural vacation experience. And, like most people who visit South Africa’s shores, you can always come back for more if you miss something! ➤ www.robertsherwooddesign.com

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F O C U S

S TAY CAPE TOWN â&#x17E;¤ SOUTH AFRICA

THE SILO KENSINGTON PLACE LABOTESSA

THE SILO HOTEL Cape Town, South Africa T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

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TH E SILO

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A PIVOTAL PART OF THE VERY BEGINNING of the settlement of Cape Town, the Victoria & Albert Waterfront dates back to the 17th century. The discovery of gold and diamonds in South Africa in the 1880s meant that the V&A’s Alfred Basin was not large enough to accommodate the increased number of ships, and so the Victoria Basin was constructed and completed 1920. While this part of the harbour still boasts an array of heritage buildings, the V&A has developed, improved and moved with the times as the centuries have passed. It’s this progression that has kept the V&A popular for so many years, with multiple generations of tourists and locals alike, and made it an intrinsic part of life in the Mother City. Nestled in the harbour between the basins and the cruise terminal and costing an estimated ZAR 2 billon, when the new Silo District opened in 2017 it changed the face of the V&A Waterfront and catapulted Cape Town into an exciting new artistic era, thanks in large part to the incredible Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (MOCAA). The focal point of the district (if not the whole of central Cape Town), Zeitz MOCAA and the surrounding area have completely rejuvenated this part of the city which was hitherto derelict and ignored. Today, the Silo District is the first stop for every visitor to Cape Town with a cultural or architectural lean and its hotel is the place to stay. Filling the top six floors above Zeitz MOCAA, atop the former grain silo, sits the crowning glory of Royal Portfolio’s group of unique hotels: The Silo. To say that this hotel has redrawn Cape Town’s hospitality landscape is something of an understatement. In effect, The Silo has introduced a new layer of luxury to Cape Town’s hotel scene by adding a glamorous property the like of which Capetonians had never seen before. Staying in one of The Silo’s 28 individually-designed rooms and suites is like looking out through the fanciful crystal-like windows of a bejewelled trinket box suspended in the sky, with all of Cape Town sparkling around you. “Unique” doesn’t do The Silo justice - the hotel is special in every way. “Showstopping” is more like it. As one would imagine, the service is faultless. The front desk and concierge teams connect with in-house guests via WhatsApp to ensure that every whim is catered for. Completely in sync with the building, you either love or hate Liz Biden’s interior design style, which can best be described as flamboyant yet inviting. Vibrant silks and deep velvets vie for attention with animal skins, lacquer work, Egyptian-crystal chandeliers, floral prints and gloss finishes. Every bathroom is massive and rockstar chic. If you are a minimalist The Silo is not the place for you. If you have a zest for life, love colour and live for the moment you will adore The Silo and everything about it, especially the glass-sided rooftop pool and residentsonly Sky Terrace which crown the building and provide 360-degree vistas of the surrounding area, plus quite possibly the city’s best views of Table Mountain.

➤ www.theroyalportfolio.com

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CAVALLI ESTATE

TO EXCITE YOUR EVERY SENSE... Cavalli, South Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s foremost contemporary wine estate, home to award-winning cuisine, wines, art, local design and a world class equestrian centre, situated in the heart of the Cape Winelands. With passion in every detail, your visit may last longer than you expect....

CAVALLIESTATE.COM 72

P: +2721 8553218

E: Info@cavalliestate.com

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KENSINGTON P L AC E

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SOMEWHAT UNIQUELY, CAPE TOWN offers visitors a large number of privately-owned, individually styled boutique hospitality gems, that skilfully manage to combine the standards of a five-star hotel with the level of calm, relaxed intimacy and personal service of a well-staffed private house, perhaps owned by a tasteful friend. In all our years of globetrotting, The Cultured Traveller has never come across a city which offers such an array of small, high-quality hotels that cater to the needs of discerning international travellers quite so well. Some are located along the coast in Cape Town’s bays and boast water views and sea breezes, while others are positioned on the slopes of the city’s mountains and hills, offering panoramic city vistas and bucolic gardens. Kensington Place is the latter, and has been routinely voted one of Cape Town’s best boutique hotels since it opened just over two decades ago. An inconspicuous, eight-room property in upmarket Higgovale, Kensington Place is conveniently positioned on the lower slopes of Table Mountain, seemingly off-the-beaten-track but within 10 minutes of central Cape Town’s in an Uber. Camps Bay’s beaches are about a quarter of an hour away by car in the opposite direction, making Kensington Place nice and centrally positioned to easily access all parts of the city. A small swimming pool, deck and walled gardens surround the property, which is well secluded from the road offering guests a great deal of privacy. Inside, a multitude of tasteful design touches, a high level of finishing and general attention to detail abound. It’s obvious that Kensington Place has been thoughtfully and lovingly executed and is fastidiously maintained.

The service is warm, casual and staff are ever-present but not in your face. Having something pressed or laundered doesn’t cost the earth and nothing is too much trouble for the tight-knit team. In particular, Gillian is a diamond and Ngonie as helpful as any guest could wish for. Akin to a junior suite in a conventional hotel, The Cultured Traveller’s second floor superior room was spacious enough, complete with an oversized sofa and private terrace with sun-loungers and patio table/chairs for two. Bedecked with the kind of features you’d expect in a five-star hotel, as well as the usual king size bed, luxe linens and huge flat screen TV, the quality toiletries in the slick shower room were full size, and the panoramic vistas of the mountains and surrounding landscape were wonderful. What’s especially fab about Kensington Place is the lack of formality or airs and graces. Breakfast is served throughout the day and you can literally eat it anywhere – in your room, in the garden or in the dining room. And, as well as a buffet, an excellent range of à la carte options – include eggs prepared in countless ways and a variety of fresh-pressed juices - is offered for no extra charge. Room service is very reasonably priced, making having a “night off” and staying-in financially viable without breaking the bank. Food ordered at night was readied swiftly, delivered to The Cultured Traveller’s room and tasted delicious. Offering luxury lodgings with first class service at sensible prices, Kensington Place is perfect for travellers who value privacy above all else. ➤ www.kensingtonplace.co.za

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L ABOTESSA

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TO STAY IN ANY CITY’S CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT is to be up close and personal with its daily comings-and-goings and Cape Town is no different. A menagerie of cultures, nationalities, ages, genders, personalities and styles converging in the beating heart of the Mother City results in a unique melting pot of people from all walks of life and corners of the globe. Synonymous with having a good time and consequently brimming with bars and restaurants, bohemian Long Street is the CBD’s main artery and Cape Town’s most famous party strip. Two streets across, running parallel with Long, bustling Bree Street is home to a plethora of trendy restaurants, cool cafés, contemporary art galleries and funky shops interspersed with beautiful colonial buildings. On the other side of Long Street, Greenmarket

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

Square was originally the site of a market selling fresh produce grown in Company’s Garden nearby, hence its name. Today, stall holders sell everything from jewellery to craft goods and toys to haggling tourists while buskers provide the soundtrack. A few minutes’ walk away, Church Square couldn’t be more different. Cobbled and bordered by historic buildings yet somewhat less busy than Greenmarket, it is a relatively quiet enclave that is still very much in the middle of it all. It is here, at 5 Church Square, that swanky Labotessa boutique hotel opened its chic doors earlier this year. Occupying a charming five-storey Heritage Blue-painted building in the corner of the square, topped by a duplex penthouse, immaculately turnedout Labotessa wouldn’t look out of place in Europe and cuts a fine figure. Dating back to the 16th century, the storied building once played host to Cape Town’s first congregational church while Groote Church was being erected on Adderley Street. Today, Groote Church is South Africa’s

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oldest formal place of worship and 5 Church Square is a deluxe urban retreat. Boasting half a dozen overly spacious suites ranging in size from 65 sqm upwards, Labotessa offers luxurious and well-considered apartment-style living complete with the services of an attentive and friendly concierge-like team. While The Cultured Traveller was in residence, a broken watch strap was fixed quickly and without fuss and a Saturday shopping route was planned in-line with shops’ various closing times. Crowning Labotessa is its rather special three-bedroom 300 sqm Governor Suite. Spread over two levels and providing the ultimate accommodation and entertaining space, the suite boasts multiple terraces, a private splash pool, SONOS system and a slick all-singing-all-dancing kitchen. Basically, the perfect place for a party. Cleverly, all of Labotessa’s rooms are accessed directly from the elevator, meaning that your digi-key takes you directly to your lodgings without meeting other guests en route. Lounge windows look directly at Lion’s Head

Mountain. A high-top table – with a built-in power and USB tower – is the perfect place to check emails on-the-go. A personal kitchenette means that foods can be warmed-up if you fancy having a night-in. Shower rooms are small but perfectly formed and laden with a plentiful supply of super-luxe Diptyque toiletries. The free mini-bar is well-stocked with everything from mineral waters to South African wines and local craft gins. Don’t be surprised to find a delicious mini picnic in your fridge on arrival which is refreshed daily. Turn-downs are accompanied by handmade chocolates or some other naughty sweet treat. Housekeeping staff access suites via a different door at the back of each suite so the elevator is for guests’ use only. A refined place to rest one’s head, Labotessa has been elegantly and carefully finished to provide the highest quality stay in the epicentre of bustling Cape Town and wholly succeeds on every level.

➤ www.labotessa.com

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NOT TO BE M IS SED IN CAPE TOW N

SEE VISIT ZEITZ MOCAA

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THE WORLD’S LARGEST MUSEUM dedicated to contemporary art from Africa and its diaspora, since opening in 2017, the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (Zeitz MOCAA) has catapulted South Africa onto the global art stage and the incredible building has already gained near iconic status, certainly within the continent. Housed within 9,500 sqm of custom designed space spread over nine floors, the museum was carved out of a disused grain silo complex comprising 42 tubes that densely packed the building. Now repurposed, Zeitz MOCAA stands as both a monument to Cape Town’s industrial past and a beacon of architectural and artistic creativity moving forwards into the future. Even if you’re not a fan of museums or an art aficionado, set aside a few hours to see the building – the atrium is breathtaking and the views from the rooftop sculpture garden, towards Table Mountain, are unmissable.

➤ www.zeitzmocaa.museum

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HIKE LION’S HEAD MOUNTAIN NOT ONLY CAN YOU GAZE FOR MILES around in all directions from atop Lion’s Head, but the mountain’s position, in the very centre of Cape Town, provides a unique perspective of the cityscape and surroundings suburbs. The spectacular vistas of Table Mountain and the Twelve Apostles peaks, that run along the Cape Peninsula south of Cape Town, are also mesmerising. Ascending Lion’s Head takes 60-90 minutes and doesn’t require any special equipment - just some decent trainers and sensible clothing. While the hike only requires a degree of fitness and sensibility rather than experience, it’s always best to be guided by an expert. The Cultured Traveller enlisted the assistance of Kosta Papageorgiou, who is admirably making the ascent 500 times as part of his Lion 500 challenge to raise ZAR 500k for the #beahumblehero fund in support of Cape Town charities Rape Crisis, Fallen Angels and Depression SA (facebook.com/pg/ thelion500). A morning spent with charming Kosta, conquering Lion’s Head, is something you’re not going to forget in a hurry.

➤ lion500challenge@gmail.com

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MEET AFRICAN PENGUINS COLLOQUIALLY KNOWN AS Boulders Bay and located 45 km southeast of Cape Town, close to Simon’s Town, Boulders Beach is punctuated by huge, ancient granite boulders which protect it from the wind and large waves, making it a very nice spot for some sheltered swimming. In 1983, a colony of African penguins obviously thought the same because they settled and have been resident ever since. Classified as an endangered species, only found on the coastlines of South Africa and Namibia and known for their distinctive donkeylike braying, the penguins wandering freely in a protected environment have become something of an attraction for local and tourists alike. Being one of only a few land-based penguin colonies in the world today, incredible conservation efforts have grown the Boulders colony to over 2,000 birds in recent years. The best time to see them is early morning or late afternoon when the penguins are at their most active and photogenic! ➤ www.sanparks.org

RIDE FRANSCHHOEK’S WINE TRAM

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BOASTING ONE OF THE MOST beautiful wine producing regions in the world, no visit to South Africa is complete without spending some time in its Cape Winelands, and taking a ride on the Franschhoek Wine Tram is almost certainly one of the best ways to take in see the pristine scenery while at the same time visiting a selection of vineyards and sampling some fine wines produced by some of the nation’s oldest and most distinguished estates. A particularly lovely way to spend an afternoon, the vintagestyle railway tram’s curated wine experiences include a tram ride to a local wine estate, a wine lecture by a knowledgeable oenophile, a guided cellar tour, three-course gourmet lunch (with wines, of course) and tastings at two more premium wine estates. Sit back and let someone else do the driving while you enjoy the delicious wines! ➤ www.winetram.co.za

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

SEE EXPLORE DE WATERKANT

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LOCATED BETWEEN THE BO KAAP neighbourhood and the city centre, this uplifting and fascinating little village is something of a cosmopolitan hub where locals, the LGBTQ community and visitors from around the world gather to drink coffee, eat, party and socialise. An area steeped in history and home to a variety of restaurants, shops, spas, yoga studios and quaint cottages, De Waterkant has a style all of its own, is one of the oldest parts of Cape Town and one of the few to have retained much of its original character. Nestled against the steep slopes of Signal Hill, the first houses were built in the late 18th century. Today, the area owes much of its innate character to its relatively domestic single storey flat-roofed architecture – some Cape Dutch, some Georgian – painted in a variety of charmingly bright and pastel colours. ➤ www.capetown.travel

DRIVE TO CAPE POINT TO LITERALLY FEEL LIKE YOU’RE AT the end of the earth, nothing beats visiting Cape Point. 60 km from Cape Town by road, it’s one of the most beautiful drives, so rent a topless car and feel the wind in your hair as you coast along the Cape Peninsula. Reaching out into the crashing waters like an elongated claw at the bottom of Africa, Cape Point is surrounded by tempestuous oceans and battered by gale-force winds and makes for a brutally elemental afternoon in amongst the ancient mountains, Cape fynbos and firedependent botanicals. 238 metres above sea level, the old (upper) lighthouse can be easily accessed courtesy of a funicular. Needless to say, the views from its perch are spectacular. Take the funicular up and walk down for the best of both worlds. The new lighthouse which replaced it, built exactly a century ago, is the most powerful light on the African continent. ➤ www.capepoint.co.za

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CAPE TOW N ’ S FINEST R E STAU R A N T S

TA S T E BELLY OF THE BEAST

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UTTERLY UNMISSABLE FOR A dedicated gourmand, this superb restaurant located in East City Precinct should be at the top of your Cape Town hit list. The brainchild of chefs Anouchka Horn and Neil Swart, Belly of the Beast offers a changing, seasonal tasting menu for lunch and dinner in their 20-seater modernindustrial dining room. A completely open kitchen lines one side of the restaurant opposite a bank of street-facing windows. Guests are seated in between and served every course by the chefs and friendly waiting staff, making for a very personal and involved dining experience which The Cultured Traveller adored on the evening we visited for dinner. There are no menu options or set number of courses. Dinner service starts at 7pm and if fancy a pre-dinner cocktail you may show up from 6pm. Reservations are made online, alleviating Horn and Swart from the hassle and allowing them to focus on the food which is very good indeed. Dining at Belly of the Beast is an impressive gastronomic experience from start-to-finish, which when coupled with such personal service and attention to detail, makes this restaurant stand out.

➤ www.bellyofthebeast.co.za

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

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TA S T E

THE POT LUCK CLUB ONE OF THE CULTURED TRAVELLER’S favourite restaurants in Africa, the sister restaurant to celebrated British chef Luke Dale-Roberts’ famed Test Kitchen, The Pot Luck Club, seemingly floats above Cape Town’s funky Woodstock district, on the sixth floor of a former silo presiding over the Old Biscuit Mill complex. Boasting a relaxed, New York loft feel, expansive windows around the perimeter of the spacious 120 seat dining room provide panoramic vistas of the ocean, port, city, Table Mountain and Lion’s Head. An open-plan kitchen illuminated by studio lighting gives the impression of a stage, where talented head chef Jason Kosmas (appointed this year) serves a menu which draws inspiration from South America to Southeast Asia (pictured above). A number of tasty new dishes recently added reflect Kosmas’ Greek/Italian heritage. Literally everything about the Pot Luck is cool and stylish, including the affable staff. Serving world-class food in a laid-back environment is the key to this venue’s incredible success – often selling-out two sittings every night of the week, especially during high season – so reserving well in advance is a must or prepare to miss out.

➤ www.thepotluckclub.co.za

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THE DUCHESS OF WISBEACH LOCATED IN A LITTLE SIDE STREET off Sea Point’s main road, this intimate Cape Town culinary institution, comprising a medley of splendidly decorated rooms adjoining a characterful and buzzing bar, recently celebrated its tenth birthday. Run by inimitable chef and hostess-with-the-mostess Theresa Beukes, a night spent with “the Duchess” can range from a quiet and refined dinner to a full-on party complete with music, sparklers, glitter, dancing and more. For this reason, the Duchess is incredibly popular with local folk and only tourists in-the-know find their way through her hallowed, decadent portals. Here you will feast on well-executed, no-nonsense fare, perhaps kicking off with mussels from South Africa’s west coast steamed in a carrot, tomato and leek broth. Follow with a roast rack of lamb served with roast potatoes, peas, gravy and homemade mint sauce. To finish on a sugary high, order the hot sticky apricot pudding with fudge sauce and ice cream. Nostalgic, discreet, a little glam and a touch romantic, the best night to visit is surely Thursday, when the post-dinner antics are at their maddest and the tequila-fuelled fun often continues past midnight.

➤ www.duchessofwisbeach.co.za

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

TA S T E

THE ATHLETIC CLUB & SOCIAL HOUSED ON THE EDGE OF THE CBD on Buitengracht Street, within a gorgeous, brown-hued three-storey heritage building dating back to the 1900s, The Athletic Club & Social opened its doors about a year ago to much and immediate critical acclaim and has been on the rise ever since. The brainchild of co-owner and seasoned restauranteur Athos Euripidou, who has lovingly honoured the building’s heritage while simultaneously breathing new life into its labyrinth of interesting spaces, every detail has been carefully executed to reflect the grandeur of the 1920s and 1930s. The result is a venue that could be located in any fashionable world metropolis yet is intrinsically South African and proudly representative of the country’s storied past. The tapas bar and restaurant offers a moreish menu that skilfully fuses Greek, Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flavours, featuring many beautifully executed vegetarian and vegan dishes. All meats and fish are sustainably and ethically sourced. Staff are friendly, knowledgeable and unstuffy. The round table directly in front of the kitchen is the one to book if you like to people watch and see your food being prepared. In the basement, a warm, club-like space, reminiscent of a louche 1920s salon, comes alive at the weekends when a DJ plays disco, soul, jazz, funk and afrobeats.

➤ www.theathletic.co.za

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SALSIFY

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A PARTNERSHIP BETWEEN TWO of the Western Cape’s fine dining connoisseurs, Luke Dale-Roberts and Ryan Cole, Salsify opened a little over a year ago in the upper level of the historically-significant Roundhouse building, which sits in a leafy pocket of Camps Bay overlooking an exquisite stretch of the Atlantic Ocean, making it the perfect venue for a nice long lunch! Dating back to 1786 when the building served as a guardhouse then a hunting lodge for Sir Lord Charles Somerset, Salsify is bedecked with interesting art that both pays homage to the building’s history and makes some strong statements about Somerset’s naughty antics! Of note are works by Brooklyn-based Louis de Villiers AKA SKULLBOY and a striking statue by Jan Otto du Plessis. Drawing inspiration from the eatery’s name, chef Cole is gently pushing flavour and technique boundaries to produce refined, classical dishes with a modern touch. The result is an opulent yet relaxed dining experience, with first-class service lifting Salsify to Cape Town’s top ten.

➤ www.salsify.co.za

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

TA S T E FYN

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CHANNELLING A DISTINCTLY DOWNTOWN MANHATTAN feel, it’s not just the menu that blends South African and Japanese flavours at Cape Town’s newest designer urban eatery, FYN, its interiors are also a harmonious balance of the two contrasting cultures. Positioned five floors up on the corner of Church Square and Parliament Street in the heart of Cape Town’s CBD, the space is dominated by a show-stopping Japanese abacus-inspired art installation by German craftsman Christoph Karl, whose strings of wooden discs fill the ceiling above the dining room and kitchen.

FYN’s menu follows the kaiseki, multi-course dining concept and is packed with interesting dishes courtesy of much-lauded chef Peter Tempelhoff. If you opt for the tasting menu, expect to start with an exquisite bento box of bite-sized canapés, followed by bread served with a dusting of bone marrow coal and wagyu butter. A kaiseki tray of slightly larger portions forms the main course, followed by a ramen dish and then a palate cleanser before a trio of desserts. The wine flight pairings are good, but you’d be better advised to select your own bottle from FYN’s rather fine list. ➤ www.fynrestaurant.com

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T H E BE ST C O C KTA I L S IN CAPE TOW N

SIP THE ART OF DUPLICITY

MICHELLE PARKIN PHOTOGRAPHY; LEA CRAFFORD

HIDDEN AWAY IN A FORMER warehouse at the back of a late 19th century storefront, you’ll need the address and a password to get into this secret speakeasy-style bar in East City Precinct. Once inside, you’d be forgiven for feeling like you’ve just been teleported back to prohibition era New York, when illegal establishments thrived on members of high society living life to the full. Dominated at one end by a huge bar, The Art of Duplicity is helmed by mixology master Brent Perremore, who is personally responsible for some of the best menus in Cape Town. Unsurprisingly therefore, the cocktails served are top notch and drinks are presented with careful attention to detail. On Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, live jazz completes the immersive experience. The Art of Duplicity is probably the best venue in Cape Town to spend a sophisticated yet low-key evening, sipping premium cocktails.

➤ www.170120.co.za

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

S TAY

HOPE DISTILLERY

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PIONEERS IN THE SOUTH AFRICAN craft gin game, hands-on husband and wife team Leigh Lisk and Lucy Beard left behind their high-powered London jobs to return to South Africa and pursue their passion for making artisanal spirits, particularly mother’s ruin. Launching in 2014 in gritty, largely industrial Salt River, at a time when premium craft spirits were relatively new and uncommon in South Africa, Hope was the first licensed small batch distillery to open in Cape Town. Five years later, Lisk and Beard have made a good name for themselves among the discerning gin-drinking community for their high-quality products and their bottles are stocked by numerous restaurants and bars across town. If you fancy a quality G&T while you’re in Cape Town, head to Hope’s experiential tasting room which offers an up-close-and-personal introduction to the brand. Alternatively, treat yourself to a gin flight, order some nibbles and spend a few hours relaxing and getting gently “ruined” South African style!

➤ www.hopedistillery.co.za

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THE SILO ROOFTOP

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PERCHED ATOP CAPE TOWN’S MOST TALKED ABOUT HOTEL, The Silo, this chic rooftop bar is partly open to the public every day from noon until sunset, offering expertly prepared cocktails amid some of the most spectacularly panoramic views in the Mother City, from the tallest building in the V&A Waterfront. Cocktails and South African wines are complemented by a range of culinary treats including fresh oysters, pulled pork sandwiches and a variety of tasty salads and snacks. While the hotel’s stunning glass-sided rooftop pool and upper-level Sky Terrace are only accessible to guests actually staying in the hotel, you can stylishly kick-start an evening’s proceedings at this chic rooftop venue without having to book for a room for the night! ➤ www.theroyalportfolio.com/the-silo

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

SIP

THE HOUSE OF MACHINES

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THE BRAINCHILD OF AVID motorcycle enthusiasts Brad Armitage, Paul van der Spuy and Drew Madacsi, The House of Machines is a unique urban space, located in Cape Town’s city centre, which somehow fuses a coffee shop with a bar, men’s fashion outlet and a bike workshop at the back. The bar element of the operation serves a good range of artisan beers and some excellent throwback cocktails. Staff are very well versed, friendly and keen to impress, whether with a latté or a cocktail creation. The Corpse Reviver, Side Car and Smoked Old Fashioned are all well-prepared and punchy. There’s almost certainly nowhere like The House of Machines anywhere else in the Western Cape, and while motorcycle fans will obviously love the place, the drinks and atmosphere have been designed, as a whole, to appeal to a far wider crowd.

➤ www.thehouseofmachines.com

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CAUSE | EFFECT COCKTAIL KITCHEN

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THE BRAINCHILD OF AWARD-WINNING BARTENDER AND beverage consultant Kurt Schlechter and his bartending business partner James Philips, Cause Effect’s mission is to deliver unique cocktail experiences inspired by its South African surroundings, including Cape Town’s fynbos, oceans, emerging artists, the surrounding vineyards and the mountains. Winners of South Africa’s cocktail bar of the year and best bar team of the year in 2018 and 2019, Schlechter and Philips know a thing or two about making drinks, and the aforementioned elements are not only

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reflected in the fantastic decor of the venue but also in the spectacular cocktails created. The bar also offers one of the largest collections of award-winning Cape potstill brandies and local bitters, vermouths and tinctures. For a show-stopping cocktail, order “The Rocket” – made with Bacardi 8, passion fruit, orange, rooibos and sparkling water – served in a large rocket ship handmade out of red and white beads, complete with haze emanating from the door which opens to reveal the drink inside.

➤ www.causeandeffect.co.za

SIP ASOKA

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OCCUPYING A RELATIVELY unobtrusive Victorian townhouse in the midsection of Kloof Street, its weekly Tuesday live jazz and deep house nights are the night at ASOKA and have been a veritable institution among the Mother City’s hip afterdark crowd for some time now. Sporting an exotic design aesthetic that takes you on a journey from Turkey to Thailand, and a vibe that can best be described as elemental fusion, beyond the homely terrace out front and timber sash windows, the space is comfortable, seductive and somewhat otherworldly, making it ideal for the many purposes ASOKA has become popular: cocktail bar; sundowner spot; live music venue; late-night dance floor and dinner venue. Overall, ASOKA is a friendly warm and the service is great, so well worth dropping into a while you’re in Cape Town, especially on Tuesday nights if you fancy a little boogie!

➤ www.asoka.za.com

TJING TJING ROOFTOP BAR

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LOCATED WITHIN A FASTIDIOUSLY RENOVATED 200year-old heritage building at 165 Longmarket Street in the heart of the CBD, Tjing Tjing offers four distinctly different experiences in one venue, each of which interprets Japanese food and culture with a contemporary edge. At the top of the building and open since 2011, Tjing Tjing’s rooftop bar has been voted one of the world’s best by Conde Nast Traveller. Enveloped in wooden mansards, the former attic space of the

building is today an eclectic mix of old and new, presided over a Japanese shrine-inspired red bar offset by a black and white Tokyo and Kyoto photo wall. The bar opens up to an airy, al fresco rooftop terrace. Well-known locally for indie and electronic music, here you can enjoy a good selection of well-executed hand-crafted bespoke cocktails, together with spirits, wines and Otsumami (snacks) in a chic yet fun-loving environment.

➤ www.tjingtjing.co.za

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WHERE TO SHOP IN THE MOTHER CITY

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Cape Cobra Leathercraft

Mungo

S TAY MUNGO ESTABLISHED IN 1998 BY MASTER WEAVER Stuart Holding, Mungo is a family-run business that specialises in the production of natural fibre homeware textiles, individually woven at Mungo’s own mill in Plettenberg Bay. The wide range of homeware textiles available includes everyday classics inspired by historic patterns, as well as contemporary designs influenced by African textile traditions. Behind every product is real South African people, thousands of carefully sourced natural fibre yarns, traditional tools, history and knowledge – both learned and inherited – used to manufacture well-designed products that last. At Mungo’s Hout Street store, as well as the full Mungo range you’ll find a cool experiential inner-city micro mill, where contemporary textile design meets traditional weaving on a one hundredyear-old Hattersley loom. ➤ mungo.co.za

CAPE COBRA LEATHERCRAFT

Merchants on long

CAPE COBRA LEATHERCRAFT FOUND INTERNATIONAL ACCLAIM in the 1990s and has since become Africa’s largest exporter of luxury exotic leather goods, manufacturing for some of the fashion industry’s top design houses. A third-generation family-run business, the brand’s name pays homage to the Cape Cobra snake which is native to Cape Town. Timeless luxury, refined designs and impeccable craftsmanship have made Cape Cobra popular around the globe for many decades and put its goods into the hands of everyone from the British Royal Family to Jennifer Lopez. At Cape Cobra’s swanky Bree Street retail store, shoppers can browse a vast array of beautifully finished goods fashioned from Nile crocodile, ostrich, python and Asian vine snake skins sourced from trusted sustainable farms in the Far East and South Africa. ➤ www.capecobra.com

ANPA A UNIQUE SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLER based in the adorable suburban Cape Town fishing village of Kalk Bay, with another outlet in Franschhoek’s winelands, ANPA’s prêt-à-porter pieces exhibit an organic, hand-finished style that highlights the precious metals and gems used in their production. A range of sculptural statement pieces – fashioned from gold, silver, black diamonds, tanzanite, African emeralds and a myriad of precious stones – distinctly echo Africa and make for excellent mementos. ANPA has also fine-tuned the art of custom made jewellery, crafting beautiful, one-of-akind pieces that can encapsulate a client’s personality and individual taste. Good value custom-made pieces can sometimes be made on fairly short notice by ANPA designers Andreas Betzold and Patrizia Litty, who have been collaborating for almost 20 years, striving to create high quality jewellery with significant visual appeal. ➤ www.anpa.co.za

MERCHANTS ON LONG

Anpa

A TRIBUTE TO THE VAST ARRAY OF HIGH QUALITY GOODS available on the African continent, Merchants on Long opened in 2010 in one of the street’s most beautiful and historic buildings, complete with a gorgeous terracotta Art Nouveau facade, to showcase Pan-African design spanning everything from jewellery, clothing and shoes to homewares and gifts. Reputed to be the first concept store in Cape Town to offer such a wide variety of African fashion and designer wear under one roof, here you will find exquisite items such as Zulu-inspired sandals, the divine scents of Karen Frazer and gorgeous woven baskets handmade to exacting standards by artisans. Distinctive MaXhosa knits by Laduma explore the Xhosa culture through graphic printed knits. Ghanaian YEVU produces ethical clothing using a reinterpretation of traditional African fabrics. And owner Hanneli Rupert’s own Okapi line of bags – incorporating exotic materials like springbok horns and ostrich skins in her designs – are also worth checking-out.

➤ www.facebook.com/merchantscapetown

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Greenmarket Square

ALEXANDRA HÖJER ATELIER HOUSED ON THE GROUND FLOOR of a historic 17th century building on fashionable Bree Street, Swedish clothing designer Alexandra Höjer moved to Cape Town in 2006 to start her eponymous clothing line and her beautiful store exudes her unique sense of personal style. A seemingly effortlessly curated collection of unique props – including rusted steel cabinets and an array of vintage amber glass – sit elegantly alongside contemporary furniture and fittings that subtly defer to Höjer’s contemporary-chic womenswear which takes centre stage. Reflecting an innate femininity, all of Höjer’s locally made ready-to-wear garments fuse a touch of rock ’n’ roll with a sense of modern nostalgia, and display a grittiness that makes them bang on trend right now. Separated from the shop by glass is the studio where Höjer and her small team toil, allowing customers to witness the manufacturing process and make a connection with their garments. ➤ www.alexandrahojer.com

AFRAID OF MICE FAR FROM THE DUSTY RACKS OF CLOTHES one might normally associate with a vintage store, Afraid of Mice on the corner of Long and Longmarket streets is well merchandised, bright and entirely pleasing on the eye. Filled with “the clothes you wish your mother had kept for you” is the mantra of owning-sisters Simone and Bianca Brandi, who decided to follow their passion for fashion after an inspirational trip to the States where vintage is such a big thing. Afraid of Mice is brimming with big-brand vintage and collectable pieces accessibly priced which is the key to the stores’ success. Beautiful clothing shines against a backdrop of simple white walls. Designer vintage pieces from America and Europe hang on rails. Everything is carefully and lovingly handled. There is literally something for everyone, which means that the shop is often busy on Saturdays, so try to visit during the week.

➤ www.afraidofmice.com

GREENMARKET SQUARE ONE OF CAPE TOWN’S LIVELIEST AND MOST HISTORIC public hubs, this bustling cobbled square in the very centre of the Central Business District was originally home to a fresh fruit and vegetable market, where the produce grown in nearby Company’s Garden was sold. Today, Greenmarket Square is filled with stalls selling everything from jewellery and beaded animal figurines, to painted ostrich eggs, wood carvings, blankets, throws and all manner of souvenirs. If you keep your expectations low, chances are that something will catch your eye and you’ll be trying to haggle down the price before you know it. Around the perimeter of the square, a number of cute cafés serve a fairly decent latté, so if you’re not in the mood to shop, just take a seat and watch the colourful characters passing by. ➤ Burg Street

& Longmarket Street

CAROLE NEVIN DESIGNS A TALENTED CAPETONIAN ARTIST who started making beautiful handpainted textiles from her garage in 1992, Carole Nevin now employs and trains previously disadvantaged South Africans from local communities to produce her designs which are retailed in Cape Town’s CBD, the V&A Waterfront and a studio/factory shop in Muizenberg. Over the years, the range of Carole Nevin items has grown to include table, kitchen and bed linens, cushions, curtains, bags and upholstery. Hand-painted and hand-printed fabrics are also available by the metre. The colourful nature and originality of Carole Nevin’s products make them sought after by tourists looking for a gift to local game lodges and the hospitality industry. ➤ www.carolenevin.co.za

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

Alexandra Höjer Atelier

SPEND

Carole Nevin Designs

Alexandra Hรถjer Atelier

Afraid of Mice

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ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

JOE MORT I M E R E NJOYS A TA ST E OF I M P E R I A L RU S S I A IN THE CITY’S LARGEST SUITE, AT A L E GE N DA RY S A I N T PETERSBURG ADDRESS WHERE R OYA L S A N D W O R L D L E A D E R S H AV E C R O S S E D P A T H S F O R MORE TH A N A CEN TURY

suite envy THE PRESIDENTIAL SUITE

➤ BELMOND GRAND HOTEL E U R O P E , S T. P E T E R S BU R G

TAND IN THE CENTRE OF ARTS Square in Saint Petersburg, next to the statue of Russian poet Alexander Pushkin, and you’ll find yourself surrounded by the whispers of history. The grand buildings that circle the square tell myriad tales of Russian life, from the Imperial era of Tsar Nicholas 1 and the post-Revolution years of the early 20th-century, to the modern day, when the city stands at the crossroads of east and west. ➤

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On the northern side, the neoclassical Mikhailovsky Palace, designed by Italian architect Carlo Rossi, is now home to the Russian State Museum: a trove of Russian artistic treasures spanning almost 900 years, and the largest collection of Russian fine art in the world. On the western side is the Mikhailovsky Theatre, one of Russia’s oldest, where the great works from Russian, French and German masters have been performed for the city’s cultured inhabitants since its curtain first rose in 1833. The building that occupies much of the south side of the square is one of Saint Petersburg’s most fabled; one also created by Carlo Rossi after splicing together three existing townhouses behind one impressive façade. Belmond Grand Hotel Europe is the grande dame of Saint Petersburg; a historic property that has welcomed more heads of state,

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VIPs, royal families and high-profile celebrities than any other address during its 144-year history. Running the length of Mikhailovsky Street, connecting Arts Square with the threemile long, boutique-lined Nevsky Prospect, the hotel is the most prestigious and storied in the city. THE MOST MAGNIFICENT OF ALL ITS 266 GUESTROOMS is the hotel’s Presidential Suite, a grand two-bedroom apartment festooned in rich textured fabrics, antique furnishings and elaborate foil and silk wallcoverings, which welcomes guests into its ornate environs through a golden domed entrance hall. Residents and visitors are whisked ➤

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away to a world of tsars and tsarinas in this elegant abode, which takes its inspiration from the classic Imperial period thanks to a 2014 refurbishment courtesy of New York-based Tihany Design, which counts Four Seasons, Mandarin Oriental and The Beverly Hills Hotel among its prestigious portfolio. Designer Adam Tihany has captured the grandeur and opulence of the era throughout the 350-square-metre corner suite, which overlooks the twinkling lights of Nevsky Prospect and Mikhailovskaya Street and claims the honour of being the largest suite in Saint Petersburg. Parquet floors in dark oak create a warm residential feel in the spacious living room, private lounge bar and ten-seater dining room, where Murano crystal chandeliers hang overhead.

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An extensive art collection is exhibited throughout the suite, including a dramatic 1976 photograph of Bolshoi Theatre prima ballerina Natalia Bessmertnova, by German photojournalist Robert Lebeck, which hangs in the living room alongside a piece by contemporary Russian artist Natalia Sitnikova. GENTLY PUSH A PANEL IN THE SUITE’S PRIVATE library and the entire bookshelf gives way to reveal a secret entrance to the master bedroom, which features its own secluded living area and a magnificent four-poster canopy bed. A standalone clawfoot bathtub takes pride of place in the master bathroom, which is clad top-to-toe in dazzling marble inlaid with fine gold glass tiles and features its own hammam sauna. Marble is used extensively throughout this historic hotel, but nowhere is it felt more prominently than in the Presidential ➤

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Suite’s grand entrance hall, where four tall marble pillars surround an elaborate mosaic floor, leading the eye to what is perhaps the highlight of the apartment: an antique C.M. Schroeder grand piano. The beautiful instrument was built in the 19th century at the Saint Petersburg factory of Carl Schroeder, who became the official supplier to both the Saint Petersburg and Moscow conservatories (music schools) for his award-winning pieces. The Grand Hotel Europe acquired one of his pianos shortly after its opening in 1875, and since then, the talented fingers of Tchaikovsky, Strauss, Prokofiev and Shostakovich have danced across its keys. The piano is one of six in the hotel, the most magnificent of which is a museum-worthy grand piano, inlaid with obsessively intricate birds and flowers, made by Belgian master Herman

Lichtental. The antique instrument’s ivory keys have been coaxed into life by some of the world’s greatest pianists and composers over the decades, many of who have been regular guests at the Grand. Luciano Pavarotti practiced on another piano during his stay in 2014, and Elton John famously entertained guests in the hotel during a tour of Russian in 1979. At the same time as the transformation of the lavish Presidential Suite, Tihany Design created five Avant-Garde Suites inspired by 20th century Russian artists. Each of these unique, one-bedroom apartments is decked out in a manner that reflects the style and familiar tones of each artist, with specially commissioned artworks also reflecting the nuances of the Russian greats. With five styles to choose from, there’s one for every taste, but the highlight is surely the Kandinsky Suite, which echoes the abstract style of Wassily Kandinsky via varied textures, patterns and colourful jewel-toned furnishings and décor. ➤

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IN ADDITION TO THESE RELATIVELY NEW SIGNATURE suites, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe is home to 10 Historic Suites created by French designer Michel Jouannet. The Dostoevsky Suite, named after regular guest and ‘Notes From the Underground’ author Fyodor Dostoevsky, commands superb views of Arts Square, with an ample writing desk in the corner living room and a bathroom finished in contrasting marbles: two of the 30 types of marble used throughout the hotel. The Lidval Suite was created in honour of architect Fyodor Lidval, who oversaw a major refurbishment of the hotel between 1908 and 1914. During the transformation, he overlaid his ornate Art Nouveau style on the Lobby Bar and Krysha Ballroom, as well as the main stairway leading up to the Historic Floor. The Rossi Suite is dedicated to the man who created the hotel’s iconic façade, while the focal point of The Stravinsky Suite is a glossy black grand piano. Music remains an integral part of the hotel experience, from the solo pianist who performs at breakfast beneath a stainedglass window in L’Europe (which turns into one of the city’s most beloved fine dining restaurants in the evening) to the nightly jazz at the extremely elegant Lobby Bar. Dining takes a contemporary twist at AZIA, where chef Larissa Kordik

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prepares modern, pan-Asian cuisine in a sleek, modish venue created by Japanese design firm Super Potato. The strains of classical guitar and violin also accompany an evening at the Caviar Bar & Restaurant, an essential destination for anyone visiting Russia for the first time. Start with a selection of regional caviars (beluga, oscietra, sterlet and salmon, to name a few) paired with Russian vodkas, both distilled and traditional varieties, and marvel at how the potent spirit cuts through the unctuous roe. Follow with a selection from the main menu, which combines classical and contemporary Russian dishes: try the country rabbit blinis with a rich cherry sauce, followed by a deconstructed beef Stroganov, a modern take on a traditional Russian dish. Don’t miss the opportunity to try some surprisingly good Russian wines: the sparkling white Temelion, made from chardonnay and pinot noir grapes in the northern Caucasus, is exceptional. Beyond Arts Square, there’s a whole city of architectural marvels and cultural riches to be discovered in Saint Petersburg, and Belmond Grand Hotel Europe is well positioned for guests to visit all of them on foot. The imposing Kazan Cathedral is just around the corner, and the extraordinary State Hermitage Museum and its unfathomable collection of treasures is a short walk away. A few blocks north of the hotel you’ll find the Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood, the onion-domed edifice built on the spot where

SUITE ENVY

Emperor Alexander II was assassinated in 1881. To the east is Shuvalov Palace, now home to the FabergĂŠ Museum, where 15 magnificent Imperial Easter eggs are among the highlights of the incredible collection, bought from US publisher Malcolm Forbes after his death in 1990. Exploring them all takes time and stamina, but returning to the divine comforts of the Presidential Suite in the evening ensures a taste of the elite lifestyle that has been so carefully preserved at this legendary hotel. A night in The Presidential Suite at Belmond Grand Hotel Europe starts at RUB 600,000 including taxes, room only. â&#x17E;¤ www.belmond.com

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5 michel roux jr. MINUTES WITH…

THE RENOW N ED CHEF

EXPLAINS WHY LE G AV R O C H E I S S T I L L A T THE TOP OF LONDON’S R E STAU R A N T GA M E , CHAMPIONS MENTORSHIP I N TH E I N DUSTRY A N D TELLS US ABOUT HIS C H R I S T M A S DAY

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INTERVIEW

➸

When did you first realise that cooking was to be your life’s passion? I can’t really think of

a definitive moment of clarity, because it has always been something I knew I wanted to do. I was pretty much born in the kitchen. My earliest memories are the smells from my father and uncle’s cooking. After being immersed in that world growing-up, it’s only natural that I developed a deep interest in cooking, which has progressed and carried me through to where I am today.

The first dish that awoke your palette? My father’s handchurned vanilla ice cream. I’ll never forget it and I am yet to find an ice cream that compares!

time to do. I take great pride in the fact that countless talented chefs have walked through my doors. The Roux Scholarship is key to this. An annual cooking competition that each year rewards the successful scholar with a three-month stage at any Michelin-starred restaurant in the world, the Roux Scholarship also welcomes them into the Roux family’s support network of mentors for the rest of their careers. It’s like a big family and we’re incredibly fortunate to have many talented chefs involved in the program. For the 2020 national final, Sweden’s first three Michelin-starred chef Björn Frantzén will head the judging panel. I can’t wait to see the new culinary talent! ➤ www.rouxscholarship.co.uk

What advice would you give an emerging chef today? Always More than fifty years after the restaurant first opened, to what do you attribute Le Gavroche’s continued success and three Michelin stars? The family values and ideals

manifested within Le Gavroche just cannot be replicated elsewhere. It’s a family restaurant through-and-through. We treat all of our guests like friends and for a long time our regulars have felt like a part of our family. My father still pops in every now and again and he knows and greets our guests too. I think this is where the success lies, in the relationships we build with our diners and the amazing experiences that come out of them. ➤ www.le-gavroche.co.uk How did it feel to take over the reins of Le Gavroche from your father Albert? It felt like

The family values within Le Gavroche just cannot be replicated elsewhere

Name a young chef to watch and tell us why?

My son-in-law Diego Ferrari who was head chef at Le Gavroche before opening Caractère with my daughter Emily. His food appears simple on the surface, but the complexity and depth of flavours he achieves are exceptional. ➤ www.caractererestaurant.com What is your guilty pleasure food? I have

a lot of responsibility! I say this with humility, but when Le Gavroche first opened during the sixties, it set the bar for restaurants in London and across the UK and began a rich, award-winning legacy. Since then, one of the essential parts of what I do at Le Gavroche is to live up to this legacy and maintain everything that our family restaurant is about.

always loved high quality dark chocolate with a minimum of 70% cocoa solids. The simple pleasures are important to me, like sharing a square or two with my wife and catching-up on each other’s days. A glass of champagne doesn’t go amiss either!

Tell us about Le Gavroche’s pop-up nights? We love to have

Your perfect Christmas Day lunch? Slow-cooked stuffed goose, damson and chilli sauce, roast potatoes, sprouts with bacon and chestnuts. Delicious.

guest chefs at Le Gavroche and the latest was Davide Oldani of Michelin-starred D’O in Cornaredo near Milan. A master of his craft, Oldani’s standout cooking skilfully reinterprets Italian classics and his light, aromatic dishes make the best use of premium seasonal produce. ➤ www.cucinapop.do You have been in the kitchen, in a professional capacity, for more than 40 years. What keeps you interested? I don’t think I will

ever lose interest since cooking is my absolute passion. This being said, being able to be greet and chat with my guests at Le Gavroche is one of my favourite parts of the job. Sometimes their feedback can really make one’s day. ISSY CROKER

ask questions and never give up – this is the advice I was given as a young chef and it’s the best advice I could give to any emerging chefs today. It’s a tough old industry and it’s even tougher if you don’t have enough determination. It’s important to start at the very bottom and work your way up – this is also the best way to learn.

Tell us about The Roux Scholarship? Mentorship is a key part

of the industry and it’s something I really enjoy taking the

Where will you be spending 25th December? Feet up by the fire, glass of whisky in hand, surrounded by family in France. They’re all so important to me, it would feel wrong to celebrate Christmas in any other way. What do have planned for 2020? In the Spring and for the first time ever, I’ll be taking Le Gavroche to the sea by offering a specially curated tasting menu of some of my favourite dishes, in one of Cunard’s fine dining venues, The Verandah. I am also designing a menu for a gala evening in the main restaurants onboard. Guests on this special crossing will also be able to ask me the questions they’ve always wanted to ask. I’m very excited! ➤ www.michelroux.co.uk

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zaha’s spectacular aviation legacy: daxing airport

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T H E C U L T U R E D T R AV E L L E R T A K E S A L O O K A R O U N D B E I J I N G ’ S N E W A R C H I T E C T U R A L LY S T U N N I N G , U L T R A - H I G H -T E C H U S D 12 B I L L I O N M E G A A I R P O R T, C ONC E I V E D BY T H E L AT E Z A H A H A DI D ➤

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WITH MORE PEOPLE TAKING TO the skies than ever before, flying today having more in common with mass transit, and there being no sign that the growing aviation industry will ever slow down, the drive to build bigger airports to handle more passengers as quickly as possible is quite literally unstoppable. No sooner has the world’s largest airport or the planet’s biggest new terminal swung its airbridges into position to offload passengers, than a newer, bigger and more shiny aeronautical behemoth nears completion, with another in the works and many more in the pipeline. In the past five years alone, the accolade of being the world’s most expensive new airport has passed between half a dozen countries and billions have been spent to create more elaborate and fanciful structures dedicated to air travel, or temples to flying, if you will. In 2020, more money will be lavished on elaborate new airports than ever before. This is because airports have principally become status symbols for countries and governments are hiring starchitects to create them, with the next generation of designers focusing on the airport as a destination rather than a thoroughfare. Consequently, verdant gardens, towering real trees, translucent roofs, cascading indoor waterfalls, sprawling shopping malls, integrated rail transportation and even cinemas have all become regular features of a 21st century airport. This has often been at the expense of the traveller, who, at some new airports, must walk kilometres before reaching the baggage reclaim. So,

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there is still a long way to go to make new mega airports more people friendly. RIGHT NOW, IN THE MIDDLE EAST and Asia for sure, every major new airport is essentially a status symbol erected to demonstrate the wealth, strength and power of its location. If China wanted to assert its prominence on the world trade stage, it has achieved this and more via the recent opening of Beijing’s breathtaking new Daxing Airport. What’s more, Daxing simply acts as a second airport for the Chinese capital, relieving the pressure on Beijing’s Capital International Airport, which hit its annual capacity of 100 million passengers some time ago. In terms of architectural aviation

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beauty, Trump’s America doesn’t have an airport that comes close to Xi Jinping’s latest cathedral to air travel, which cost an estimated USD 12 billion to build. Unsurprisingly, Daxing was designed by the late, great architect Zaha Hadid and current studio principal Patrik Schumacher, along with airport specialist ADPI. In Daxing, the legacy of trailblazing Iraqi-born Hadid – the best-known female architect of all time – very much lives on. In her astounding ➤

B OA R DIN G PA S S

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and audacious buildings – edifices she skilfully fashioned to act as emblematic symbols strewn across our planet – Hadid left behind theatrical beacons of architectural hope upon her untimely passing in 2016. Spanning 18 square miles and boasting four runways (with three more planned), construction of Daxing began at the end of 2014 under Jinping, took just shy of five years to complete and opened bang on time. That’s Chinese efficiency for you. By comparison, Qatar’s massive Hamad International Airport opened four years late in 2013 amid countless delays and much acrimony. Resembling an enormous space-age starfish, 46km south of the Chinese capital, Daxing is the largest singlebuilding terminal in the world. Courtesy of its five-armed design, 79 airbridges are connected directly to the terminal. The passengers of six, full double-decker A380 aircraft can be disembarked simultaneously without blinking. That’s more than 3,000 passengers coming off multiple aircraft in a matter of minutes. WHERE SO MANY MODERN airports let passengers down, Daxing positively shines, since due to the radial configuration of its compact 700,000 sqm terminal, the farthest boarding gate can be accessed in just an 8-minute walk. Echoing the basic principles of traditional Chinese architecture that organises interconnected rooms around a central courtyard for ease of access, Daxing seamlessly guides passengers

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through the relevant zones towards a grand, multi-layered meeting space at the center of the terminal – the airport’s beating heart. Bathed in natural light, thanks to a vaulted glass roof and a network of linear skylights, Zaha Hadid Architects refers to this inner area as a “central orientation space dome”. Daxing’s check-in island, international and domestic security desks and domestic retail area are arranged on four different levels here. Colossal structural spans, some of up to 100 metres, create generous and absolutely beautiful public spaces, enticing travellers to pause, linger and look. Attention to detail and architectural beauty abound at Daxing, which seamlessly merges aviation with form and function. A sixth arm – the Northeast Pier –

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radiating outwards from the centre, contains an 80,000 sqm ground transportation hub which offers fast and direct connections to Beijing, the national high-speed rail network and local train services, as well as offices and a hotel. Given the grandeur of Daxing, it’s only fitting that the airport’s only in-terminal hotel should be equally as grand and 215-room Aerotel Beijing doesn’t disappoint. Spread across two floors and more than 9,000 sqm, the hotel is positioned just 10 minutes from the airport’s international check-in desks. Six room categories, sporting a minimal and neutral design aesthetic, offer high-quality bedding, pillow menus, power showers, multiple light settings, high-speed Wi-Fi and in-room IPTV. Guests can stay for 3, 6, 9 or 12 hours, so there’s no need to pay for a full day if you’re transiting Daxing and just need to catch-up on some shut eye. myaerotel.com Whilst nothing can make up for the emissions coming from the aircraft taking-off from it, Daxing is the most environmentally friendly airport in the world. Powered by solar panels with a centralised heating system and waste heat recovery supported by a groundsource heat pump, Daxing also has inbuilt rainwater collection and water management systems. Already capable of serving 45 million passengers per year, Daxing is expected to accommodate 72 million by 2025. Further planned expansion will increase the airport’s annual capacity to 100 million travellers and 4 million tonnes of cargo. Not just an architectural marvel but also a delight to look at and a joy to pass through, hopefully the newest holder of the title of the world’s biggest airport will retain its crown for a few years, not least due to Daxing’s overwhelming aviation splendour. ➤ www.daxing-pkx-airport.com

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A PLACE FOR YOU TO RELAX AND REJUVENATE

the hills are F R O M H I S R E T R E AT- L I K E B A S E AT AY U R V E D A R E S O R T S O N N H O F, T U C K E D AWA Y I N A P I C T U R E - P O S T C A R D M O U N T A I N VA L L E Y S U R R O U N D E D B Y F O R E S T S , A L E X B E N A S U L I D I S C OV E R S T H AT T H E AU S T R I A N H I L L S A R E N O T O N LY S I N G I N G B U T P O S I T I V E LY P U L S AT I N G W I T H L I F E ➤

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really alive

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RAVELLERS HAVE BEEN enjoying the invigorating mountain air of the Alps for centuries. As part of the Hapsburg Empire, the Tyrol attracted a cosmopolitan nobility and emerging middle class escaping the cities and large towns during the heat and pestilence of the summer months. The stress of urban life, industrialization and threats of war drove people to the mountains as a place of refuge. Spa towns emerged around thermal springs and alpine lakes as centres of physical and mental well-being. In time, it became fashionable to spend a few weeks every year communing with nature as a way of nurturing one’s mind, body and spirit. Nowadays the area is a popular as ever. From May to October there are seemingly endless opportunities for hiking, walking and cycling through mountains, valleys and forests. In winter, in addition to skiing, there is ice skating, snowshoeing and sledding. The Tyrol appeals equally to adrenaline junkies as it does to more sedate holidaymakers, its universal allure being its spectacular scenery, authentic culture and down-to-earth charm. In the bosom of its historic town centres, mountain meadows and snow-capped peaks, it is hard not to sense a spiritual connection or at the very least feel especially alive. As the pendulum swings for those in affluent western

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societies towards more holistic and healing holidays, people are drawn increasingly to Asia’s healing traditions and spiritual practices. For many, however, a trip to India or further east is just too daunting. As the Tyrol shows, Europe has some spots of incredible natural beauty that stimulate profound inspiration. But it is sometimes challenging to find resorts that successfully merge the best of both Eastern and Western cultures in a location closer to home. If you are wondering what a near-perfectly executed and authentic Indian Ayurvedic-oriented spa might look like in a European alpine setting, look no further then Ayurveda Sonnhof in Hinterthiersee. Located in the heart of the Tyrol, an hour by car from Innsbruck and ninety minutes from Munich, Hinterthiersee is the type of place that a location scout would lock down for a bucolic, alpine movie scene. The high plateau of Thiersee

NO SHOES REQUIRED

into the colour palette of the interior design, or the sprinkling of Indian deity and Buddhist imagery throughout the property. Perhaps it is the spiritual quotes and positive aphorisms stenciled on the various walls and doorways. The energy is instantly both uplifting and calming at the same time. Ayurveda Sonnhof is the culmination of almost two decades’ work to fuse the best of Ayurveda with fine Austrian alpine hospitality, infused with heart and soul. So often a luxury retreat centre or spa hotel can tick all of the boxes in terms of facilities, treatments offered and high levels of service, but lack warmth, feeling and a sense of purpose. This is simply not the case at Ayurveda Sonnhof. A sense of positivity, a genuine care for guests’ wellbeing and light touch spirituality are at the core of the experience here. Ayurveda is one of the world’s oldest holistic healing systems, stretching deep into antiquity. It believes that physical and mental well-being come from balancing the mind, body and spirit. Today, Ayurveda is gaining in popularity around the globe as a way to treat common ailments ranging from insomnia, migraines and digestion issues to more serious chronic illnesses of all types. ➤

Valley sees green pastures slope upwards on either side of the road towards forested mountains. The village’s church spire is the tallest man-made structure as far as the eye can see. Down valley is a perfectly framed picture of evergreen trees and undulating hills creating a mini self-contained world of serenity and visual bliss. The only sound apart from the occasional passing car and wind blowing through the trees is that of tinkering cow bells. At night you can literally hear a pin drop. FROM THE OUTSIDE, AYURVEDA SONNHOF LOOKS like a classic high-end Tyrolean chalet – an attractive and wellmaintained pair of half-timbered houses adorned with bright red flower boxes. However, it is inside where the real magic takes place and it doesn’t take long to figure out that there is something very different about this place. Maybe it is the orange and yellow tones with red accents that are subtly woven

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IN THE AYURVEDIC WORLD, WE ARE ALL DIVIDED into three mind/body types or doshas. Those governed by Pitta are made up of the fiery elements and tend towards high levels of energy, impatience and anger. Earth and waterbound Katha is the opposite – calm and centered but prone to laziness. Vata, governed by air, is creative but inclined to anxiety. While all of us have a dominant dosha, we experience all three to different degrees. Ayurveda is about identifying which doshas are out of sync and how, through diet, herbs, various mind and body treatments and a long list of other potential remedies, to bring them back into balance. You don’t have to disavow western medical research to find wisdom, practical common sense and easy-to-follow treatment plans in Ayurveda. The mostly Indian-born and trained clinical team at Ayurveda Sonnhof spends up to an hour with every guest at the beginning of a stay, listening to what ails them, explaining the Ayurvedic way of looking at things, defining a stay’s objectives and setting out the best course of treatments. Most programs are based around detox, weight loss or nervous system rebooting with a fair amount of individual customization. The grandfather of Ayurvedic treatments, Panchakarma is an intense regimen for a minimum of one week which includes massage, oil treatment, a strict diet, purging and other purifying practices aimed at eliminating the toxins and returning one’s body and mind to a purer state. There are few places outside of India that offer Panchakarma in a traditional and well-supported way. Ayurveda Sonnhof is one of them. Not every traveller visits Hinterthiersee for an Ayurvedic immersion. A full program of daily yoga and meditation

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classes, led by passionate and inspired facilitators, are vehicles for contemplation, self-exploration and the expansion of one’s consciousness. The resort’s “AyurvedaCentre” boasts a wide variety of steam rooms and themed saunas plus infrared heat cabins, peace and meditation rooms and a gym, and offers everything from Vata gemstone and saltwater therapy to classic spa treatments. Therapists and instructors are not only extremely professional and proficient but also warm and mindful, approaching guests more like a family member than staff. Whether looking for a full-on detox, some relaxing downtime or something in the middle, Ayurveda Sonnhof offers a wide range of treatments and activities to suit every guest seeking some time out. The Tyrol’s clean mountain air and gorgeous scenery work perfectly in tandem with Ayurveda as a salve to the body and mind to create a life-changing stay. Though there are regular, scheduled mountain and forest walks offering outdoor mindfulness in a group dynamic, it is just as easy to get out and explore on one’s own. There are countless trails of various durations and difficulties that literally begin right outside the resort’s front door. WITHIN 15 MINUTES YOU CAN BE OFF THE BEATEN track with the scent of pine trees and ferns filling the air. Tree covered mountain passes illuminated by dappled light suddenly give way to slope side views across the valley towards riverbeds and more mountains. Though all the paths are ➤

Luxury Beachfront Villas & Suites WWW.SRIVILLAS.COM SRI VILLAS COLOMBO-GALLE MAIN ROAD 69 KM POST MAHA INDURUWA, SRI LANKA

INQUIRIES@SRIVILLAS.COM +94 774951646 +94 912264873

clearly signposted, one can walk for hours without seeing another soul. It’s criminal to be in this part of the world and not wander the trails for an afternoon or embark upon a hike that takes in some of the quaint surrounding villages. In order to cover more ground in a shorter period of time and climb higher altitudes with greater ease, the hotel has a fleet of electric bicycles on hand for guests. Within 30 minutes on an e-bike, I am in to Höhlenstein. Even on an e-bike it’s a bit of a push to get up through the forest, but the views from the top, towards the Alps and the River Inn below, are incredible. The down-hill ride back is nothing short of exhilarating. Further down valley in the adjacent village of Thiersee, a small alpine lake is perfect for swimming on a hot summer’s day. Visiting a farm might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but it lends itself perfectly to introducing or reinforcing a new way of living based on greater awareness of our connection to the land while at the same time promoting healthier and more conscious eating. It is also a window into rural Tyrolean life and adds a dose of down-to-earth realness to one’s stay. Free range takes on a new meaning when one sees animals roaming happily in green, open fields. It’s not rocket science to understand that carefully cultivated meat and produce has a positive impact on the world and our health. Most of the fruit

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and vegetables served in the excellent restaurant at Ayurveda Sonnhof, not to mention many of the herbs in the teas and various treatments, are sourced from the resort’s very own farm. After just a few days at Ayurveda Sonnhof, the idyllic setting really starts to work its magic and the stresses of urban life soon drift away. Living healthier and more in balance actually begins to seem like a god given right, not an obligation. We tend to think that our lives need major overhauls or fixes. While this is sometimes the case, especially if in a period of crisis, much of the time moderate detoxes combined with mindful practices like yoga and meditation can work wonders. Add a renewed relationship with nature and you can literally change your outlook on life. Most of the guests at Ayurveda Sonnhof are repeat visitors and it’s easy to understand why. At the end of my four-day stay I am bursting with vitality matched by an inner peace, and as I am heading to Innsbruck airport, not only are the hills positively alive but so am I. ➤ www.sonnhof-ayurveda.at

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THE ULTIMATE CALIFORNIAN WINTER ROAD TRIP

sand & snow in california A VA S T L A N D O F C O N T R A S T S P U N C T U A T E D B Y A N C I E N T F O R E S T S , A C R E S O F D E S E R T, F E R T I L E V I N E YA R D S , S A N D Y B E A C H E S A N D S NOW- CA P P E D MOU N TA I N S , S OP H I A A MO S, H A R R I E T B A L L A N D R AC H E L S A N TA C RU Z TA K E U S ON T H E I R U LT I M AT E W I N T E R ROA D TRIP OF NORTHERN CALIFORNIA

ROLLING HILLS AND WINERIES After landing at San Francisco International, we immediately head east for 50 kilometres towards a triangle-shaped region of the eastern San Francisco Bay Area known as Tri-Valley. Often overlooked in favour of Napa, Tri-Valley is one of California’s hidden viticulture and outdoor gems and boasts award-winning wineries, delightfully diverse restaurants, charming downtowns and unspoiled hiking trails. ➤ www.visittrivalley.com

Blend your own vino at the oldest family-run winery in the States ➤ www.wentevineyards.com , yoga between the vines at Concannon ➤ www.concannonvineyard.com or simply hop on the Livermore Wine Trolley and leisurely trundle through miles of lush, rolling hills. ➤ www.livermorewinetrolley.com In the evening, head to Sabio on Main. The décor may be Spanish inspired but co-owner/chef Francis X. Hogan’s menu is deliciously global, fashioned from the best local produce and bursting with flavours. From the octopus terrine starter to the black cod entree served with black rice, oyster mushrooms, baby bok choy and a miso broth, Sabio is one of finest places to eat in the Bay Area. ➤ www.sabiopleasanton.com Rest your head overnight at The Rose, located in the heart of Pleasanton’s historic downtown. A boutique hotel that deftly marries the charms of a B&B with first class hospitality, The Rose offers easy access to the region’s plethora of restaurants, ➤ shops, wineries and golf courses. ➤ www.rosehotel.net

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TH E ORIGI NA L CA L I FORN I A N BEACH TOW N We jump in the car and head south for an hour to Santa Cruz – the quintessential beach town. ➤ www.santacruz.org . Offering visitors an abundance of activities and laid-back Californian culture, Santa Cruz is home to an iconic boardwalk, sandy beaches, an eclectic culinary scene, year-round wildlife and more than a dozen state parks. The oldest – Big Basin Redwoods State Park – is a veritable emerald gem, where visitors can marvel at the majestic trees and embark upon the Berry Creek Loop: a 5-6-hour hike through redwood-lined canyons and dramatic ridges, culminating in the Berry Creek Falls which are at their thundering best in winter. ➤ www.parks.ca.gov/bigbasin Not only is surfing the official sport of California and now recognised as an official Olympic sport, Santa Cruz is the birthplace of mainland surfing in the States. Since Hawaiian royalty rode the waves on surfboards crafted from redwood trees in 1885, many surfers have been drawn to the area for its challenging sets and breaks along the rugged coastline. Jack O’Neill – surfer, ocean conservationist and founder of the eponymous surf brand – helped bring the sport to the world stage by developing the modern-day wetsuit. His son, Pat, introduced the earliest form of surfboard leash. Rent a board for USD 50 per day or have a beginners’ lesson at local surf school Club Ed for 100 bucks. ➤ www.club-ed.com Log-cabin inspired and enveloped by nature, we descend through a bucolic jungle-like garden on a hillside tram to reach Shadowbrook. Along the way, we pass a herb garden where

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2-hour Yosemite Valley Floor Tour, which can be enjoyed from the comfort of a heated coach during the winter months. ➤ travelyosemite.com

Brunch amid granite pillars and cathedral-like windows under a soaring cross-beam ceiling at chandelier-lit Ahwahnee Dining Room, which is as spectacular as it is inviting. Built a century ago and sporting a striking granite façade, reserve a parlor at Yosemite’s only AAA four-diamond hotel, The Ahwahnee, and combine it with a room to create a deluxe suite. the restaurant’s chefs pluck seasonal greens. We plump for sustainably raised and organically fed Pacific Rim salmon, served with sea greens, julienne vegetables, ginger-wasabi and a Miso vinaigrette. The fish is divine. Then we can’t resist the “Jack Daniel’s Mud Pie”, served with a moreish whiskeychocolate sauce. ➤ www.shadowbrook-capitola.com Perfect for a beach break, stay in a cozy studio at Seascape Beach Resort. Located on more than 20 kilometres of secluded beachfront in Aptos, this all-suite property features three swimming pools, hot tubs, a spa, two on-site restaurants and an extensive tequila list! ➤ www.seascaperesort.com

A M E R I C A’ S I C O N I C N AT I O N A L PA R K Next, we head east to explore some of America’s most incredible inland sights. Nestled in the heart of California, Yosemite Mariposa County is a resplendent natural wonderland. Home to soaring granite icons including Half Dome and El Capitan, this holy grail of outdoor adventure has been inspiring authors, poets and artists for decades. Soar above the park by plane, hike through a valley of waterfalls or take a classic car for a spin. Everything is possible in Yosemite. ➤ www.yosemite.com Led by rangers and naturalists, experience the park’s highlights and learn about its history, flora and fauna on a

HISTORIC T UOLU M N E C OU N T Y After visiting Yosemite, swing northwards to Tuolumne County. A rich destination for California history buffs, Tuolumne’s roots lie in the mid 19th century Gold Rush era. ➤ www.visittuolumne. com But when the snow is falling, winter wonders await and Dodge Ridge beckons. Spend a day on the slopes and follow in the footsteps of generations of skiers and snowboarders who have been enjoying Dodge Ridge since the 1950s. Alternatively, for some full-on fun, head to Leland High Sierra Snow Play park, where 15 acres of tubing terrain to suit every age make for a laughter-filled day. ➤ www.snowplay.com Located in the heart of the Californian motherland, Columbia State Historic Park is a living gold rush town comprising the largest single collection of original gold rush-era structures in the state. Akin to travelling 150 years back in time – complete with the sights, smells and sounds of a 19th century mining town – visiting Columbia is a fun and family-friendly way to spend an afternoon. ➤ www.visitcolumbiacalifornia.com Positioned on a corner in Main Street, St. Charles Saloon looks exactly as it did back in gold mining days. Served inside are some of the best pizzas in the state, offered (in true American style) in five different sizes. Eat in the main dining ➤

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room, surrounded by taxidermy, and feel like you’re on a movie set. ➤ www.facebook.com/pizzawizzard Spend the night surrounded by towering peaks, alpine meadows, lakes, wildlife and more at secluded McCaffrey House B&B, hosted by friendly owners Steph and Mike. ➤ www.mccaffreyhouse.com

H O L LY WO O D E L I T E ’ S MOU N TA I N R E T R E AT We take Highway 120 south east to reach a year-round Californian adventureland in the Eastern Sierra. Mighty in scale and awesome in beauty, Mammoth Lakes is the state’s best kept secret, its name referencing the vast number of crystal-clear alpine lakes. Mammoth Lakes is also home to LA’s closest ski resort, making it a longstanding favoured getaway of Hollywood’s elite, so here you can indulge in everything from high-altitude mountain biking to unadulterated outdoorsy hedonism. Whether you plan to ski Mammoth Mountain or its familyfriendly sister resort June Mountain, the terrain is epic, the scenery is stunning and the season is exceptionally long. With over 300 days of sunshine per year, Mammoth Mountain offers visitors a truly Californian experience in the snow. ➤ www.visitmammoth.com

Named after the Viking goddess of hunting and skiing, upscale Skadi offers fine alpine cuisine with a fresh, Californian twist. The brainchild of chef Ian Algerøen, his exquisitely executed fare reflects both his Norwegian heritage and his work in the Swiss Alps and is paired with a carefully curated wine list. We dine, at one of just ten tables, on house smoked trout with a horseradish cream, followed by Canadian duck breast with arctic lingonberries and feel like queens! ➤ www.skadirestaurant.com

Mere steps away from the Village Gondola offering quick access to the ski slopes, we drop anchor overnight at the petfriendly Westin Monache for the in-room fireplace and some fullservice hospitality in the heart of Mammoth. ➤ www.marriott.com

N O R T H A M E R I C A’ S PUREST LAKE Upon leaving Mammoth, we drive due north into the heart of the stunning Sierra Nevada mountain range, towards South Lake Tahoe. The hottest spot for cold weather adventures in these parts, nestled on the border of California and Nevada and boasting breathtaking lake and desert views, South Lake Tahoe offers countless ways to spend a day on t he slopes. ➤ www.tahoesouth.com If you have a need for speed, book half-an-hour on a ➤

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EUROPE

NO SHOES REQUIRED

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Vattanac Capital Tower 66 Monivong Boulevard, Sangkat Wat Phnom, Khan Daun Penh Phnom Penh, Kingdom of Cambodia

rosewoodhotels.com/en/phnom-penh | +855 23 936 888

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snowmobile and feel the wind in your hair as you whizz round a professionally prepared circuit. ➤ www.tahoesnowmobiles.com For adrenaline junkies, enjoy incredible views as you glide through the sky on a one-kilometre-long zip line, launching from a starting elevation of 3,000 metres and hitting a top speed of 80 kmph. ➤ www.skiheavenly.com Both a retreat and an alpine getaway, the Coachman Hotel is a simple yet stylish Californian property with modern and highly functional guest rooms kitted-out with high-quality beds and linens. Book a king suite for more space and a big sofa to laze on. Soak your slope-weary joints in a hot tub before bed and kick start the next day with a mug of good coffee before heading off to Sonoma County. ➤ www.coachmantahoe.com

W H A L E WA T C H I N G IN SONOMA Despite cooler temperatures and the occasional mist, rain or fog, the weather remains largely mild in California’s wine country throughout the winter. During low season, many Sonoma wineries offer behind-the-scenes tours and tastings, while visitors can take advantage of more than 80 kilometres of dramatic Pacific coastline largely devoid of tourists. ➤ www.sonomacounty.com Sonoma’s coastline provides plenty of opportunities to observe gray whales as they breach, spout water through their blowholes and play during their annual north-south winter migration along the county’s coastal peaks. One of the best places to see these gentle giants of the sea is Bodega Head – a small, rocky peninsula that shelters Bodega Bay. For a meal that is fresh, healthy and bursting with flavours, head to The Girl & The Fig which serves “country food with a French passion” in an unpretentious environment matched with some excellent wines. ➤ www.thegirlandthefig.com Just off the North Coast Highway and dramatically perched above the Pacific Ocean in the charming Californian coastal town of Jenner, Timber Cove Resort is a contemporary, one-of-akind hotel that pays homage to its 1960s architecture. Fall asleep to the sound of crashing waves and dream of the gentle whales you saw during the day. ➤ www.timbercoveresort.com

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C A L I F O R N I A’ S COOLEST CITY To experience Californian city life before heading home, make your final stop in San Francisco to explore its unique neighbourhoods, iconic landmarks and world-class food scene. Avoid the traditional tourist haunts and head to some of San Fran’s lesser-known neighbourhoods. SoMa (South of Market) is home to SFMOMA which holds more than 30,000 works spanning painting, sculpture, photography, architecture and design ➤ www.sfmoma.org To pause and reflect, visit Yerba Buena Gardens, where the sound of water, the scent of flowers and the warmth of the Californian sunshine creates a serene oasis in the middle of the city’s downtown bustle. ➤ www.yerbabuenagardens.com Get up close and personal with the Golden Gate Bridge on a Blazing Saddles guided bike tour ➤ www.blazingsaddles.com , wander around hip Haight-Ashbury neighbourhood and browse its vintage boutiques, and visit the Ferry Building’s artisan market to sample some of the state’s freshest produce. ➤ www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com

Now open for two decades, satisfy your appetite with hearty fare and entertain your mind with a movie at Foreign Cinema, an innovative restaurant which weaves food, wine, film and art into one harmonious locale. foreigncinema.com At China Live – situated in the heart of San Francisco’s Chinatown – enjoy an interactive culinary experience in one of three restaurants, while being educated about the rich history of the ingredients in the food you’re eating. ➤ www.chinalivesf.com We end our Californian road trip with some unadulterated five-star luxury at the St. Regis San Francisco, which combines magnificent architecture with refined lodgings set within the 20th century landmark Williams Building in the heart of the SoMa district ➤ www.stregissanfrancisco.com . A veritable haven in the middle of the city, the St. Regis’ Remède Spa is the perfect place to unwind at the end of a memorable vacation and toast California with a glass of bubbles! ➤ www.visitcalifornia.co.uk

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A CULTURED, INSIDER GUIDE TO SEATTLE

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thriving emerald city I N T H E S H A D OW O F T H E O LY M P I C M O U N TA I N S T O T H E W E S T A N D T H E C A S C A D E M O U N TA I N S T O T H E E A S T, ALEX BENASU LI DIS COV ERS A V IBRA N T OCEA N IC CITY W ITH A BUSTLING DOW N TOW N, CHARM ING NEIGHBOURHOODS, A BURGEONING FOODIE SCENE AND A M U LT I T U DE OF C U LT U R A L AT T R AC T ION S â&#x17E;¤

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VEN THOUGH THE EMERALD CITY (as it is affectionately nicknamed) is the largest metropolitan area in America’s Pacific Northwest, Seattle is meeting the 21st century headon, with more growth and development than ever before, while striving to maintain its much-loved unpretentious down-to-earth charm. Surrounded by water and forested mountains, Seattle is blessed with a proximity to nature that few cities on the planet can rival. Combine this with a humming downtown, a variety of enchanting neighbourhoods, restaurants and bars to rival NYC and an abundance of water views and it’s not hard to see why Seattle is one of the most desirable places to live in the United States. When the sun is shining the city literally glistens, so it’s best to visit between April and October. Upon departing Seattle’s SeaTac Airport (having most likely landed on a locally-manufactured Boeing aircraft) the feeling is evocative of a frontier outpost, somewhat cut-off from the rest of the United States by undulating carpets of woodland, towering evergreens and mountain ranges, with the only access to the outside world being the city’s harbour. Today, of course, the lush landscapes and abundant waterways are interspersed by a high-rise urban downtown core and a low-rise semi-urban periphery and

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the Port of Seattle is one of the Pacific Northwest’s leading economic engines, but the overall sense of physical space lends a unique, laid-back feeling to the place which makes Seattle inherently appealing. The best place to get a broad perspective of the city and its immediate surroundings is atop Seattle’s most famous building, the Space Needle. Built in 1962, standing at almost 185 metres tall and presiding over the city centre for more than half a century, the structure’s flying saucer-shaped observation decks offer visitors Seattle’s only 360-degree indoor and outdoor panoramic vistas of downtown, picturesque Queen Anne neighbourhood, Mount Rainier, the Puget Sound and the Cascade and Olympic mountain ranges. Following a recent USD 100 million top-to-bottom renovation there is no better time than now to visit the Space Needle and enjoy the inimitable views it offers. ➤ www.spaceneedle.com What is remarkable about the city’s skyline is how quickly it is changing. Seattle is one of the fastest growing major metropolitan hubs in the United States. New buildings are popping up everywhere, many of which are architecturally noteworthy. Looking down through the rotating glass floor of the Space Needle’s lower observation deck, South Lake Union is a neighbourhood that barely existed five years ago. When Seattle was founded in 1851, it was the backwater of a backwater town. Today, South Lake Union is not only ➤

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at the city’s geographical center but also pivotal to the exploding knowledge economy and biotech industry which are transforming Seattle. In the middle of South Lake Union are The Spheres, which form a dramatic part of Amazon’s sprawling USD 4 billion Seattle headquarters. Open for public tours by appointment only and casually sitting in the middle of the city looking like they’ve landed from another world, this trio of massive glass domes serves as a space for Amazon employees to work and collaborate with their colleagues while relaxing among flora and fauna from every corner of the planet. Containing more than 25,000 plants of 200 different species, The Spheres’ four-storey living wall is in itself a sight to behold. ➤ www.seattlespheres.com AWASH WITH SHINY GLASS BOX-LIKE OFFICE buildings and newly minted bars, cafés, restaurants and boutique fitness clubs, South Lake Union is an impressive work in progress and a testament to the changing fortunes of this progressive and resourceful city. Juxtaposed adjacent to this hive of activity, on the banks of Lake Union, are the house boats, seaplane terminal and patchwork of ships, docks and warehouses that reflect the maritime culture of historic Seattle. With its year-round snow-capped volcanic dome and its forested lower tiers, if you are lucky enough to visit the Space Needle on a clear day, when Mount Rainier is visible, you are in for a visual treat. More than 4,000 metres high and akin to a gargantuan alien mother ship hovering over the city, seeing this active volcano from the Space Needle makes extraterrestrial comparisons even more apt. To get a better understanding of the city’s historical roots, head to the site of Seattle’s earliest settlement, Pioneer Square ➤ www.pioneersquare.org . Though most of the original buildings were destroyed in the Great Seattle Fire of 1889, it is still the oldest part of the city. ➤

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After the great fire, the city grew rich as the main trading hub and infrastructure supplier for the 100,000 prospectors who migrated to the Klondike region of the Yukon looking for gold, and the seeds were planted then that led to Seattle becoming one of the largest container ports in North America. Hidden away in the historic Cadillac Hotel building in Pioneer Square, the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park is actually more of a museum, filled with all kinds of fascinating exhibits about the Gold Rush era and Seattle’s connection to it. ➤ www.nps.gov/klse Not only does Pioneer Square offer a plethora of drinking, dining and shopping options, it is also home to the largest concentration of art galleries, innovative exhibition spaces and working artist studios in Seattle. This vibrant neighbourhood also hosts the longest established art walk in the United States, which is held on the first Thursday of every month. A monorail ride to Westlake Center or an easy 15-minute walk from Pioneer Square is the city’s original farmers market, established in 1907. With its larger-than-life retro neon signage, Pike Place Market is Seattle’s most popular tourist destination and one of the most visited attractions on the continent. The upper floors house the oldest, continuously operated public farmer’s market in the United States, with everything on display from seasonal produce and cut flowers to an array of fresh fish and crustaceans. Fishmongers routinely flinging the catch of the day through the air between them, to be caught and wrapped behind the counter, has become something of a crowd-pleasing attraction. The rest of Pike Place Market is a haven for the local arts and crafts community. Browse for quirky curios, vintage comics,

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vinyl records and all manner of objets d’art. Since a lifetime could be spent exploring the market’s nooks and crannies, best you set a time limit before arriving! It was in the Market that the original Starbucks opened in 1971. 48 years later, visitors to Starbucks’ very first store at 1912 Pike Place wait in a long line to drink a piece of caffeine history, their patience a testament to how ingrained in daily life this chain of coffee houses has become. ➤ www.starbucks.com Opened by three Greek brothers 100 years ago adjacent to the Market, the Athenian is still hard to beat for the freshest seafood. (athenianseattle.com) Alternatively, grab a cup of award-winning chowder and head to one of the many terraces overlooking the bay towards West Seattle to take in the view. ➤ www.pikeplacechowder.com A short walk from Pike Place will take you through Belltown, a gentrified former industrial district made up of handsome brick and stone buildings that now house upscale apartments, bars and restaurants. Shiro Kashiba arrived in the city 50 years ago and has since become a Seattle sushi legend. ➤

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While Kashiba now has three restaurants in Seattle, Japanese food connoisseurs still flock to his first outlet, 25 years after it opened in Belltown, simply because it serves the best sushi in town. ➤ www.shiros.com ON THE WATERFRONT, AT THE NORTHERN EDGE OF Belltown, is the city’s award-winning nine-acre Olympic Sculpture Park. Monumental works by Richard Serra, Alexander Calder and Jaume Plensa (amongst others) set the park apart as world class. The setting alone, overlooking the Puget Sound with the Olympic mountains visible on a clear day, makes the park worthy of a visit and entry is free year-round. ➤ www.seattleartmuseum.org For those on foot or pedalling around the city, the sculpture park is connected via an array of attractively landscaped walking and cycling paths. If your cultural appetite is not yet satisfied and you fancy a visual feast, you must visit long term exhibition Chihuly Garden and Glass which opened at Seattle Center in 2012 to showcase the work of master glass artist, locally born Dale

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Chihuly. Chihuly’s staggeringly beautiful work is the result of incredible craftsmanship and a wild imagination. A set of indoor galleries, a massive conservatory and a stunning garden are all filled with his blown glass creations and viewing them makes for an utterly enchanting few hours. ➤ www.chihulygardenglass.com Chihuly’s lifelong passion for collecting is the theme of Collections Café adjacent to the exhibition, which offers a fresh and uniquely Northwestern dining experience for lunch, brunch or a quick bite, in a colourful space inspired by Chihuly’s iconic boathouse on Lake Union. For sunset, make your way to Volunteer Park in the historic Capitol Hill neighbourhood of Seattle. This beautiful 48-acre urban park was laid out in the early 1900s in a naturalistic American romantic style by the Olmsted Brothers, the same team responsible for New York’s Central Park. From its western perch, the Space Needle, downtown and the bay are all in full view. One of Seattle’s countless Instagramable shots is the Space Needle as seen through the centre of Isamu Noguchi’s doughnut-like Black Sun sculpture in the park. Seattle is a city on the move. Its industrial and maritime past spawned a down-to-earth quirkiness and honesty that is baked into its DNA. And now, thanks to the technology boom, Seattle is moving through the 21st century as a metropolitan leader, not a follower. For many however, the city’s near idyllic position on an isthmus between the Puget Sound and Lake Washington will always be its main selling point. Indeed, from the top of the Volunteer Park Water Tower – the highest point on Capitol Hill – Mount Rainier, illuminated by the setting sun, is nothing short of spectacular. The light dancing through the trees and green spaces, reflecting off the various bodies of water that surround Seattle, gives new meaning to the word emerald in this sparkling gem of a city. ➤ www.visitseattle.org

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FA I R M O N T O LY M P I C HOTEL

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WHILE SEATTLE APPEARS TO BE IN the midst of a hotel building boom, there remains only one Olympic. Located in the heart of downtown and originally simply known as “The Olympic”, when the hotel first opened in 1924 it was designed to provide the city with lodgings fit for a president. Today, the building’s Italian Renaissance facade is not only a city landmark but also a national treasure, and this grande dame is as beloved by generations of Seattleites as it is by business and leisure travellers from all over the globe. Afternoon tea served in the ornate Georgian dining room is an institution. Locals will tell you fondly that they or their parents or even grandparents married, celebrated an anniversary or marked a special occasion at the Olympic. Many employees have worked at the hotel for 20, 30 or even more years. Guests are treated like family whether first timers or returning regulars. The Olympic simply oozes tradition, hospitality and history at every turn. The hotel’s cavernous central lobby, lounge and reception area – with its floor-to-ceiling wood paneling, broken-up by columns and opera house-like viewing boxes – is as grand as it is welcoming. 450 rooms and suites spread out over 14 floors were recently renovated to a high standard and boast a contemporary colour palette of grays, whites, creams and blues. Traditional soft furnishings add a warming touch. Some corner rooms boast water views towards Elliott Bay. Toiletries by luxury NYC-based perfume brand Le Labo add a dash of cool to the bathrooms in all Fairmont properties. Every one of the hotel’s food and beverage venues are institutions. Collectively they make the hotel one of the city’s most upscale social hubs. The dark and moody Terrace Lounge is one Seattle’s favourite watering holes. In addition to Washington State-sourced wines and local craft beers, guests can enjoy the hotel’s very own Olympic Honey Vodka infused with honey from its rooftop beehives. One of Seattle’s oldest oyster bars, old-school Shuckers is as renowned for its 1930s oak paneling and tin ceilings as it is for its fresh fish, seafood and cocktails. (shuckersseattle.com) Undoubtedly the hospitality heart and soul of the city, the Fairmont Olympic is as prominent today as it was in the 1920s and makes the perfect, full-service five-star base from which to explore Seattle’s many multicultural charms. ALEX BENASULI ➤ www.fairmont.com/seattle

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taste&sip OUR FOOD AND DRINK E X P E RT S T R AV E L T O PA R I S , B A L I A N D T H E CAPE WINELANDS

PA R I S ’ F O O D S C E N E IL RISTORANTE – LUC A FA N T I N ➤ BALI, INDONESIA

C AVA L L I E S TAT E ➤ CAPE WINELANDS, SOUTH AFRICA

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taste &sip

REVIE S I T UAT E D W I T H I N S U P E R LUX E BV L GA R I R E S ORT BA L I , I L R I S T O R A N T E – L U C A FA N T I N D E L I G H T S C A R O LY N M c K AY W I T H A N I N T I M AT E DI N I NG EXPERIENCE SHOWCASING C R E AT I V E I N T E R P R E TAT ION S OF C L A S S I C I TA L I A N FA R E

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IL RISTORANTE – LUCA FA N T I N ➤ BV L GA R I R E S ORT, BALI

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SINCE CHEF LUCA FANTIN collaborated a decade ago with timeless Italian luxury brand Bvlgari to open Il Ristorante – Luca Fantin in Tokyo, the chic Michelin-starred Italian eatery, occupying the top four floors of Bvlgari Ginza Tower, has won countless accolades and been lauded as one of the finest dining experiences in the Japanese capital. At the restaurant’s heart is Fantin’s drive and passion for producing refined Italian classics with a playful twist, married with the style and classical elegance of Bvlgari. Uniquely perched atop dramatic cliffs on Bukit Peninsula, at the island’s southern-most tip, Bvlgari Resort Bali boasts unrivalled vistas across the Indian Ocean. Throughout the property, sophisticated, contemporary design, blending traditional Balinese influences with bespoke Italian style, highlights the locale’s breathtaking natural beauty. Naturally, this sophistication extends to the resort’s premiere restaurant. Following the immense success of his Tokyo Fantin flagship, two years ago, the eponymous chef opened a second Il Ristorante at Bvlgari’s deluxe Balinese resort. The restaurant debuted in 2017 ➤

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to much fanfare. Today, it is often name-checked as the best the popular Indonesian island has to offer in terms of fine dining. The intimate 36-seat dinner-only restaurant is helmed by resident head chef Fabrizio Crocetta, who brings to the table a wealth of experience from various Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy and Asia. With consistency as its key and under the careful tutelage of Fantin, Crocetta inventively recreates traditional Italian fare utilising local ingredients. Befitting a premium dining experience, the service is warm and personal as I am swiftly seated within one of two open-air pavilions which are flawless in their simplicity. A warm breeze, tinted with the scent of frangipani, drifts through the air. Lanterns cast delicate, abstract shadows. Clean lines and a monochromatic black colour scheme dominate throughout. Chic framed portraits, retrieved from Bvlgari’s archives, grace the back wall. Understated floral arrangements adorn fine linen-clad tables in readiness for the chef’s creations to take centre stage. The overall effect is one of simple elegance, expertly executed with the high level of panache that only a historic Italian brand knows how. THE MENU IS A CELEBRATION OF the contemporary without forsaking authenticity. This is definitely not a fusion of Italian and Balinese cuisine, rather a seductive Italian dining experience making the best possible use of the finest quality local and organic produce available. Traditional Balinese staples – including mango, kaffir lime, coconut, tuna, squid and suckling pig – complement Fantin’s desire to showcase natural and refreshing flavours in this tropical idyll. ➤

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Below: Luca Fantin and Fabrizio Crocetta

Home Homeof ofThe The SriLankan Lankan Sri LagoonCrab Crab Lagoon

www.ministryofcrab.com www.ministryofcrab.com reservations@ministryofcrab.com reservations@ministryofcrab.com ministryofcrab | ministryofcrab ministryofcrab | ministryofcrab

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An affable and polite server explains the menu. The à la carte options thoughtfully include a range of wellknown dishes as well as some more modern culinary creations. Three tasting menus are offered – I opt for 6-courses priced at IDR 1,900k (USD 135) excluding wine pairing. As one would expect of a restaurant of this calibre, its cellar is well stocked with an extensive variety of vintages, mainly Italian and numbering over 200, which is huge for Bali where such a range of fine wines is rare. Having been furnished with a glass of champagne to kick-off with, the meal is preceded by a selection of irresistible amuse-bouche. Exquisitely presented and bursting with flavours, these divine mouthfuls of food heaven prepare my palate for what is to come and provide a tantalising insight into the gastronomic delights ahead. A dish of tagliatelle with scallops, corn and caviar creates a pleasantly unexpected combination of flavours and textures in my mouth – the sweet crunch of the corn with the scallop, delicate and buttery, surprisingly balanced by

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the saltiness of the caviar. The dish is perfectly balanced and served with a glass of Pol Roger Brut Réserve. WHILE FANTIN’S SIGNATURE DISH of cold squid ink spaghetti is not on the menu, an alternative of cold spaghetti with smoked eel is most welcome on a warm evening. The pasta is faultless – its delicate sauce harmoniously singing a chorus of flavours, together conjuring images of an Italian summer’s day by the sea. The paired Gaja Rossj-Bass Chardonnay and Sauvignon blend, from Langhe in Italy, is spot-on for the pasta dish, gently echoing its slightly zesty sauce with a cool and crisp nose of flowers and succulent tropical fruit on the palate. An impeccable dish of Ravioli ai Crostacei, delicately topped with a small pile of fresh crab meat, provides divine bursts of intense flavours in every

TA S T E & S I P

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FOOD ATMOSPHERE

HEAD CHEF: Fabrizio Crocetta ADDRESS: Bvlgari Resort Bali, Jalan Goa Lempeh, Banjar Dinas Kangin, Uluwatu 80364, Bali TELEPHONE: +62 361 8471000 EMAIL: restaurant.reservations @bulgarihotels.com WEBSITE: ➤ www.bulgarihotels.com CUISINE: Italian fine dining LUNCH: Closed DINNER: 18:00 - 23:00 (last orders 22:30) DINNER PRICE: Three courses à la carte IDR 1,240k - IDR 2,000k (excluding government tax + 10% service) IDEAL MEAL: Bvlgari menu IDR 1,900k + wine pairing IDR 2,000k (excluding government tax + 10% service) RESERVATIONS: Essential WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No CHILDREN: Aged five and under not allowed in the dining room CREDIT CARDS: All major PARKING: Valet parking available Reviewed by Carolyn McKay for dinner in March 2019 Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service and, separately, the atmosphere in the dining room

mouthful. The paired Trabacchetto Percorino, from the Abruzzo region of central Italy, is medium-bodied yet crisp and light and marries well with the velvety ravioli. Although petite in size, the next dish of Pesce al Pomodoro is noticeably more rich, especially the glorious concentrated tomato and caramelised onion sauce. Somewhat surprisingly it is paired with a light French Burgundy, Le Clos de L’Abbaye from Domaine Anne Gros. Obviously a carefully considered choice to serve with seafood, the Pinot Noir grape is the perfect match, the wine’s berry notes and smooth, supple tannins contrasting nicely with the acidity of the tomato sauce and the meatier texture of the fish. Vitello alla Milanese, served with a moreish spinach and saffron sauce, is the evening’s standout plate, garnished with lightly fried baby spinach leaves. As I take my first bite, the veal melts and an unexpected crunch of spinach leaves adds a welcome textural contrast. The dish is an all-round gastronomic triumph and the pairing – with a Gaja Sito Moresco blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Nebbiolo grapes – lifts the ensemble to another culinary plane. The meal is closed by a citrus granite served with homemade almond ice cream, served with a glass of superb Riesling dessert wine from the Dr. Loosen estate on Germany’s Mosel River. To serve such refined and intensely flavoursome cuisine in a major world city, where ingredients are more easily obtained, would be worthy of commendation. But to serve these dishes on an Indonesian island in a sub-tropical climate is deserving of far higher praise. Every dish presented was carefully considered, lovingly assembled and pure entertainment for my taste buds, their careful preparation not only reflected in the exquisite flavours but also their impressive visual execution. Eating at the Balinese outpost of Il Ristorante – Luca Fantin is nothing short of contemporary al fresco fine dining at its tropical, Italian designer best.

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FOOD SCENE JOE MORT I M E R DI S C OV E R S T H AT THE VOID BETW EEN FIN E DIN INGA AN D BRASSERIES IN THE F R E NC H CA P I TA L I S BE I NG PLUG GE D BY A N E W W AV E O F C H E F S W HO C E L E BR AT E SEASONAL INGREDIENTS AND RE GIONAL CU ISIN E ABOV E SHOWY TA ST I NG M E N U S

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FROM THE BANKS of the Seine to the streets of Pigalle, Paris is a city in constant motion: a seething sea of humanity where everyone has somewhere to be. Those that are not on the move have already found their destination: an outside table at a corner café, a place at the bar in a neighbourhood brasserie, or perhaps a comfortable seat at a finedining restaurant. Food is the fuel that keeps this city moving: a source of sustenance, but also conversation, intrigue and passion. It’s a way to mark the passing of time; its raison d’etre. It wouldn’t be a stretch to say that food is the heart and soul of Paris. Great chefs like Joël Robuchon and Pierre Gagnaire have made an indelible mark on Parisian culinary history over the past 60 years, elevating French haute cuisine to a class of its own. But while tradition casts the Parisian gastronomic landscape in tones of fine dining overlaid with a patina of Michelin stars, things are changing in the French capital. New ideas and priorities are creeping in, as chefs ➤

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take a fresh look at the country’s culinary traditions. Today, some of the most captivating chefs are going back to the roots of French gastronomy, celebrating seasonal ingredients, traditional cooking techniques and rustic regional recipes. Restaurants are embracing the past, paying homage to France’s long history of culinary excellence. In essence, Parisian cuisine is beginning once again to reflect the wider French kitchen. The result is a more inclusively French dining scene than ever before, with less pomp and haughtiness, more heart, and a rich heritage that infuses menus with nostalgia and respect for times gone by. It’s the modern yet instantly familiar face of French dining.

L E JA R DI N FRANÇAIS Head out of Paris in any direction and it’s not long before the urban sprawl gives way to rolling fields and open countryside; the great, verdant Gallic garden that extends across the length and breadth of the country. Here, yearround, farmers raise an abundance of crops and livestock, while hunters and foragers seek game and wild ingredients in expansive woodland and hillsides. At the fringes of this landscape, fishermen

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harvest oysters, langoustine and other seafood from the waters of the Atlantic and Mediterranean and pluck plump fish from the great rivers that snake from sea to sea. In rural France, everyone from home cooks to restaurant chefs buys their fresh ingredients from regional producers at local markets, the foundation of a culinary cycle that changes with the seasons: root vegetables, tubers and hearty stews in the winter months; lighter fresh fruit and veg in the summer. Since time immemorial, events like truffle hunting or asparagus harvesting have marked the changing of the season, bringing together families and communities to enjoy dishes that can only be savoured at a certain time of year. Chefs in Paris, who have been spoiled by the year-round availability of imported ingredients, are re-engaging with this seasonality, creating concepts that are healthier, environmentally sustainable and more in touch with the natural rhythms of the planet. In the very heart of Paris, acclaimed chef Christian Constant has opened a branch of his successful Les Cocottes at Sofitel Arc de Triomphe, where traditional food served in cast iron pots (cocottes) â&#x17E;¤

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captures the simplicity of country fare in a stylish setting. Like its clientele, the venue is convivial and effortlessly chic, with elegant interiors in golden honey and toffee coloured hues. ➤ www.lescocottes.paris

Meanwhile, on the eastern flank of the city in the 16th arrondissement, Hotel Molitor occupies the site of the former Piscine Molitor, an Art Deco community swimming pool built in 1929, which was once a vibrant hub of urban life. The first ever bikini was revealed to the public here in 1946 and during the long hot summers, hundreds of bathers would sprawl on loungers and attend glamorous events. The pool was abandoned in 1989. In the years it lay empty, the site became a hotbed of counter-culture activity and was largely covered in graffiti. Today, Molitor has breathed new life into the neighbourhood as a 124-room property built around the refurbished swimming pool. The hotel’s Brasserie Urbaine captures the dichotomy of modern Paris and its gritty urban underbelly, with original Art Deco touches embellished with bold contemporary art and a menu comprising classical dishes and seasonal ingredients presented in a bold and contemporary manner, courtesy of chef Julien Mercier. ➤ www.mltr.fr/en/restauration

CHOICE CUTS The phrase “you are what you eat” has never been more relevant than it is today: an age in which people increasingly define themselves by their ➤

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SHANGHAI

BEIJING

CHENGDU

XI’AN

PHNOM PENH

Eat Local Our culinary experiences will get you oﬀ the beaten path to try a variety of authentic dishes where the locals eat.

Discover our experiences at lostplate.com

Hand-made soup dumplings, Shanghai (Lost Plate Food Tours)

dietary choices. All over the world, the food and beverage industry is catering to more and more niche dietary requirements, from the growing demand for vegan and vegetarian options to the heightened awareness of allergies and intolerances. Chefs in Paris are meeting the challenge head on, putting heart and soul into thoughtful menus with broad appeal, without compromising their concepts. A few steps from the Place du Concorde, Sofitel Le Faubourg is a stylish pied-à-terre for well-heeled travellers and its dining options are equally elegant. The hotel’s signature restaurant, Blossom, epitomises the city’s newfound respect for provenance and story-telling with a menu inspired by the seasons that changes every three months. Chef Alexandre Auger’s list of entrées includes a large number of vegetarian dishes such as a ‘Totally Green’ salad, and a butternut velouté with roasted chestnuts: a winter warmer imbued with the spirit of the season. Moreover, it’s encouraging to see restaurants catering more to vegetarian and vegan diners, a trend that has permeated even Paris’ noble dining scene. ➤ www.sofitel-paris-lefaubourg.com In the up-and-coming Bercy neighbourhood, Espirit du 12ème is the signature restaurant at Pullman Paris Centre hotel. Here, chef Julien Roby celebrates the best of fresh French produce with his ‘bistronomique’ cuisine, provides ample menu space for meatfree dishes and daily specials showcase whatever’s fresh. ‘The Leek’ is an extraordinary celebration of the humble vegetable, a vibrant terrine of pressed leek cooked in a bain marie, with a pinch of sea salt and a lemon confit dressing. It’s a novel way to treat the humble legume and encouraging to see a chef putting

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so much energy into a vegetarian dish. For all its creativity and style there’s nothing fussy or pretentious here, just excellent seasonal food at reasonable prices. Espirit du 12ème is proof that dining well doesn’t have to cost the earth. ➤ www.pullmanpariscentrebercy.com

PLUS ÇA CH A NGE Although Paris’ effervescent dining scene is in a state of flux, with positive evolution towards a more sustainable and thoughtful way of eating, it’s reassuring to note that some things remain unchanged. The boutiques of Pierre Hermé, Ladurée and Fauchon still pop with rows of colourful macaroons and the chocolatiers of the 1st arrondissement entice visitors inside with their lusty aromas. The waft of garlic mussels emanates from Left Bank restaurants and neighbourhood brasseries still offer affordable fixed price formules midi lunch deals. When the sun goes down, you can be assured

that locals still gather at bars and cafés all over the city for l’apero, the predinner tipple that often continues well into the evening. The row of open-fronted restaurants selling mugs of hot wine and ham and cheese-stuffed galettes (buckwheat pancakes) on the northern side of NotreDame Cathedral are still an irresistible attraction; and the literary haunts of the Boulevard du Montparnasse continue to lure in customers with their mounds of succulent oysters. Who can pass the storied facade of the Closerie de Lilas without stopping off for a half-dozen briny Belon bivalves and a glass of Sancerre? And therein lies the great irony of this modern-day dining revolution. Some of the oldest restaurants in Paris have been serving regional cuisine and seasonal dishes for more than a century, for the simple reason that there was once no other choice but to follow the natural rhythm. Now we’ve come full circle: let the gastro beat go on.

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EXPERI NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU HEADS OUT OF THE MOTHER CITY TO THE CAPE WINELANDS, TO SPEND AN AFTERNOON ON A S OP H I ST ICAT E D SOUTH AFRICAN W I N E FA R M T H AT HITS MULTIPLE CULTURAL NOTE S

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C AVA L L I E S T A T E ➤ SOUTH AFRICA

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VISITING CAPE TOWN and not spending an afternoon on a wine farm would be akin to taking a child to Hamleys and not buying a toy. Seriously. The Western Cape’s winelands have long been renowned as the golden gourmet trail of South Africa, and being some of the most beautiful in the world they are deserving of more than an afternoon. Many days and wine-fuelled evenings can easily be spent sampling some of the best vintages the Rainbow Nation has to offer, feasting on gourmet fare and other epicurean delights, and spending nights in luxe boutique hotels. A multitude of the latter are liberally scattered throughout the scenic area from Stellenbosch to Franschhoek, and routinely cater to international gourmands and oenophiles. South Africa’s wine estates are an inspiring mix of modern architecture and historic Cape Dutch properties, hitting multiple cultural notes and wowing in different ways, the common denominator being wine, which South African farmers have become expert at producing and exporting. About an hour outside Cape Town, Somerset West was a lesser known wine region until Cavalli Estate opened five years ago to much fanfare. Deftly combining luxe wine-tasting facilities, a contemporary art gallery, stables and world-class equestrian centre, an award-winning restaurant, ➤

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splendid indigenous fynbos gardens designed by Keith Kirsten and an impressive 350-seat events space, it’s not hard to see why Cavalli has become a popular destination with discerning travellers and locals alike. One would be hard pushed to find a more stylish place in South Africa to taste wine and feast on good food, not to mention that visiting a wine estate is a decadent way to spend an afternoon! AS WE ARRIVE AT CAVALLI, a large, bronze horse sculpture at the entrance gates, by South African artist Arend Eloff, suggests that the owning family is into their horses. Approaching the main building via a long driveway, it is also obvious that a great deal of time and money has been lavished on the site. At every turn the magnificent 100-hectare estate impresses. We glimpse racehorses in deluxe stables attached to a sprawling paddock; well-tended beds and gardens brimming with lush, local botanicals, and people coolly arriving and leaving without drama. Moreover, a sense of grace and calm is palpable throughout. A masterclass in fine design, attention to detail and organisation, visiting Cavalli is a stress-free and slick experience from the get-go. Also something of an ecological masterpiece, the estate’s photovoltaic panels harvest solar energy; geothermal systems regulate the heating and the cooling of the restaurant, and wastewater is recycled back into the gardens. So, despite thousands of people visiting Cavalli year-round, the estate doesn’t create a carbon footprint. Cavalli’s restaurant was also the first in

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the country to be Green-star accredited for its sustainability. A member of the owning family and a professional architect, who was part of the team which designed the estate, MD Lauren Smith explains, “the design of Cavalli was all about capitalising on the beauty of the site. From the vineyards to the landscaping to the public spaces, the ethos of the estate revolves entirely around sustainability.” Before lunch, we meet some of the horses whose names grace the bottles of many of the estate’s vintages. ‘Cremello’ and ‘Warlord’ are particularly magnificent animals, as is ‘Wine Women And Song’ – one of the world’s 50 top sires. Each lives in equine luxury, with a dozen or so stablemates, in an impressive, purpose-built facility fashioned from structural steel and warm oak and awash with natural light. Stable tours are free. Hour-long carriage tours of the farm are not but include a bottle of the estate’s finest. Wine-tasting on horseback is offered to experienced riders only, for obvious reasons. Located beneath the restaurant, Cavalli’s sexy underground tasting room is open to the public five days per week, and offers tasting packages of six premium wines or three ‘passion’ wines for just ZAR 80 (USD 5) or ZAR 40 respectively. Probably one of the plushest tasting rooms in all of South Africa, the space can be privately booked for parties to sip wines around the fireplace during the winter months. On the same level at the tasting room, Cavalli’s concealed 600 sqm art gallery is one of the winelands’ best kept secrets, and promotes local artists via

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its gallery space and sculpture spots dotted throughout the main building. In between the tasting room and art gallery, a smart onsite retail boutique showcases a curated range of rather gorgeous South African items. Celebrated for its style by South Africa’s prestigious Mercedes Benz Eat Out Awards, Cavalli’s restaurant is fresh, airy and elegantly executed with panache. Throughout the space, plentiful

natural light and clean lines give way to cool, modern furnishings which are contemporary yet inviting and functional, including a striking copper bar. Very much the social epicentre of the estate, the restaurant takes full advantage of Cavalli’s spectacular setting with floor-to-ceiling glazed doors opening onto to an expansive terrace. Guests dining al fresco are surrounded by 180-degree vistas across a tranquil lake, verdant gardens and leafy vineyards, framed by the majestic Helderberg Mountains in the distance. The backdrop for a gourmet meal couldn’t be more apt and here wines compliment the food rather than dominate. Produced from grapes harvested in the Golden Triangle of the Stellenbosch wine region, Cavalli’s wines are refined and largely expressive of fruit characteristics. Cremello is wonderfully playful between sweet and citrus notes, delivering lovely vanilla elements on the palate. Meanwhile, the estate’s beautifully smooth signature red blend, Warlord, has a nose of cassis and blackcurrant, with delicate nuances of vanilla and strong notes of plum and cherry. We taste six wines in all, each one demonstrating different qualities and impressing in numerous ways. Head chef Michael Deg prepares accomplished, flavourful and hearty fare that honours the seasons and makes the best use of the estate’s vegetable gardens. Married some delectable wines selected from an extensive list that showcases South Africa’s finest vineyards, we enjoy three courses of delicious food exquisitely presented and are thoroughly satiated all round. Delivering on many pleasurable levels simultaneously makes Cavalli an inimitable choice to experience fine hospitality, wine and culture in one stylish setting. Whether you visit the Mother City for a weekend or longer, make time to head out of town and immerse yourself in viniculture for an afternoon. Your taste buds will be forever grateful – ours certainly were! ➤ www.cavalliestate.com

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GLOBETROT TER

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perfect presents for all ✳

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TA K E T H E H A S S L E OU T OF YOUR CHRISTM AS SHOPPING WITH THE

C U L T U R E D T R AV E L L E R ’ S GIFT GUIDE COMPILED BY A DRIAN GIBSON. W H ETH ER A CHIC GI FT FOR YOUR LOV ED ON E, A NOV ELTY PRESENT OR A FUN STOCKING FILLER, THERE’S SURE TO BE SOMETHING HERE TO EFFECT A GOOD FEW SMILES

VERSACE HOLIDAY PLATE

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PART OF FAMED ITALIAN fashion house Versace’s new home collection, this 18cm Rosenthal fine porcelain plate features a vintage archival print with Barroco lettering, Baroque leaves and festive motifs of holly and mistletoe.

GBP 72 ➤ www.versace.com

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ALESSI LUNCH BOX ALWAYS STRIVING TO bring beautiful design to the masses, this cute multi-level lunchbox looks more like a fashion accessory. Inspired by the Japanese bento box, it has three separate compartments for different foodstuffs, which cleverly stack separated by internal lids.

GBP 44 ➤ www.alessi.com/ gb_enenthusiasts

MARWOOD BOW TIE SET FASHIONED IN THE UK to the highest standards and made to last, this elegant, handmade English lace mesh bow tie, duetted with a chic silk jacquard pocket square, is sure to enhance the party outfit of any gentleman this holiday season.

GBP 165 ➤ www.marwood.life

SHRIMPS SHELLY BAG

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INSPIRED BY GREEK MYTHOLOGY, intricately decorated with shell-shaped clusters of apricot and black beads and fully-lined with an internal pocket, London-based designer Hannah Weiland’s statement Shelly bag is fun, on-trend and is sure to turn heads over the festive season.

GBP 525 ➤ www.shrimps.com

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LARQ WATER BOTTLE

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CONTRIBUTING TO THE social effort to reduce singleuse plastic, LARQ’s reusable water bottle is not only stylish but it’s also the most high-tech water bottle on the market. The lightweight bottle has builtin LED technology which self-cleans water in 60 seconds, as it’s filled, providing pure water on-the-go.

GBP 95 ➤ www.livelarq.com

V&A GARDENING TOOLS DECORATED IN A PRETTY PRINT by Irish 18th century botanical illustrator William Kilburn, this lightweight and durable aluminium trowel and fork set, presented in a stylish gift box, is an ideal and inexpensive gift for garden lovers as well as pattern enthusiasts.

GBP 23 ➤ www.vam.ac.uk/shop

A.D.C. 01 MOISTURISER WORLD RENOWNED make-up artist Adam de Cruz’s plant-based moisturiser contains super herb and Ayurvedic medicine staple Gotu Kola, mangosteen fruit extract to reduce redness and puffiness and Korean Perilla oil to give the skin a luxurious finish.

GBP 98 (100ml) ➤ www.adcbeauty.com

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www.loudalton.com

DOIY STADIUM BOTTLE OPENER BARCELONA-BASED DOIY creates playful, well-designed items that bring cheer to our hectic lives. Founded by two friends Elodie and Jamie in 2008, they design everything in-house and sell worldwide. This bottle opener, in the shape of a football stadium, is an obvious stocking filler for him.

BRITISH BOXERS TOSCANA COBI SLIPPERS

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RECENTLY LAUNCHED BY LUXURY INTIMATES BRAND British Boxers, these stylish and super comfy ladies slippers are handmade in Cornwall from fine, purple-dyed sheepskin and trimmed with long Toscana fur to keep her feet warm and toasty on even the coldest of nights.

GBP 76 ➤ www.britishboxers.com

EUR 14.95 ➤ www.doiydesign.com

MILENA ZU BANGLES INSPIRED BY NATURE and endangered animals, these lovingly made brass bangles, by Italian jewellery designer Milena Zu, are hand crocheted by artisans using a tiny hook and beautifully combine texture and colour with contemporary style.

Available in the V&A’s online shop ➤ www.vam.ac.uk/shop GBP 225 ➤ www.milenazu.com

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CARAN D’ACHE X NESPRESSO PEN ROJA PARFUMS CHRISTMAS CANDLE

SWISS BRAND CARAN D’ACHE has been making luxury writing implements since 1915 and this year they have teamed up with contemporary coffee maker Nespresso. Made from recycled Nespresso pods, this cool new version of the iconic 849 pen gives renewed value to what was previously considered waste.

BENOWNED FOR HIS luxury fragrances made using only the finest ingredients, British perfumer Roja Dove’s limited edition 2019 Christmas candle will fill your home with a magical scent of majestic pine, cedar wood, cocoa and frankincense on 25th December.

GBP 39.95 ➤ www.carandache.com

GBP 95 ➤ www.rojaparfums.com

SHAKE IT BABY SNOW GLOBE

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SHAKE IT BABY SPECIALISES in producing snow globes with stylish, bold and sophisticated illustrations, courtesy of Dutch designer Marie-José van den Ende. A fun stocking filler, this plexiglass globe with winking eye motif can be personalised by easily inserting your own message or image. EUR

29.95 ➤ www.shake-it-baby.com

DOIY STADIUM DENHAM WEEKEND BAG MADE IN ITALY BY Amsterdam-based British designer Jason Denham, this chrometanned leather weekend bag has a detachable shoulder strap and top handles making it durable, stylish, easy-to-carry and perfect for a weekend away.

EUR 750 ➤ www.denhamthejeanmaker.com

ALESSI LUNCH BOX

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beyond the PAGES of

VOGUE EXPERIENCES THE EXTRAORDI NARY C R E AT I V E PRO C E S S OF ONE OF THE WORLD’ S MOST I M AGI NAT I V E PHOTOGRAPHERS, AT A N I M M E R S I V E T I M WA L K E R R E T RO S P E C T I V E AT LONDON’S V&A

Tim Walker at London’s V&A Museum

ATE MOSS, Nicole Kidman, Timothée Chalamet, Sir David Attenborough, Tilda Swinton, David Hockney, Daniel Day-Lewis, Whoopi Goldberg and Björk – what do all of these celebrities have in common? They have all appeared before the lens of British photographer and filmmaker Tim Walker, a prolific presence in international creative circles since he shot his first Vogue story at the age of 25. Since the late 1990s, it has been difficult to pick up a fashion magazine without chancing upon Walker, because his shoots have featured in the American, British and Italian editions of Vogue, as well as numerous other leading style-led publications. His distinctive approach blends whimsical flights of fancy and fairy tales with dramatic, carefully considered settings and a nod to prominent photographers of the past. The theatrical flavour of his compositions makes his images superbly suitable for their latest showcase, Tim Walker: Wonderful Things, the largest ever exhibition of the photographer’s work, celebrating his creativity over the past quarter of a century. ➤

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TIM WALKER STUDIO

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THE EXHIBITION IS LESS OF A retrospective and more of an invitation to step into the fantastical world concocted by Walker and his long-time collaborator, designer Shona Heath, who has created a series of striking sets. Three years in the making and inspired by the V&A’s enormous collection, images veer from an angry crimson-tinged Grace Jones in tribute to the jewel-like colours of 16th century stained glass panels, and a bright blue elephant in front of a floating temple in Rajasthan, to supermodel Karen Elson (a favourite muse of Walker’s) photographed in Bhutan wearing an Alexander McQueen gown resplendent with crescent moons and pearls. Also on display, are more than 150 new works influenced by an eclectic range of the V&A’s objects, including a 50-metre hand-painted photograph of the Bayeux Tapestry and an elegant bejewelled snuffbox, decorated with a dragon. These new works were the result of an extensive research process that included Walker meeting with dozens of curators, exploring the V&A’s collections in storage as well as in the public galleries and even scaling the museum’s roof! “To me, the V&A has always been a palace of dreams – it’s the most inspiring place in the world,” Walker explains. “Many of the objects I saw during my research at the museum made my heart swell and I wanted to try and create a photograph that would relate not only to the physical presence and beauty of that object, but also to my emotional reaction to it.” The exhibition begins in a stark white rectangle featuring a selection of Walker’s pictures from the past 25 years, arranged according to the themes of muses, gardens and more. Here you will see Kristen McMenamy as a mermaid in a vertical fish tank; Nicole Kidman in a surreal, all-white Comme des Garçons ensemble and Kate Moss in multiple ➤

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Each room is a visual feast of photography, artistic works, film and props

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settings, including the Coco Chanel suite at Ritz Paris and posing on a rooftop. In a little nook in the back you will also find miniatures of Moss reclining nude. Unusually, Walker has personally written the introductions to each part of the exhibition, explains Susanna Brown, the V&A’s photograph curator: “It’s not the conventional museum voice or the curatorial voice – it’s much more personal and emotional than that. From the moment our visitors enter the galleries, I think they will feel that Tim is really taking you by the hand and guiding them on a fantastic journey through his imagination.” Walker began to understand the history of photography by discovering the work of leading lights such as Sir Cecil Beaton and Richard Avedon when he worked in the Vogue archive as an 18-year-old, so there’s naturally a selection devoted to

fashion photography. While the genre borders are a little blurred, exquisite imagery courtesy of Dolce & Gabbana, Balenciaga, Chanel, Saint Laurent and Balmain standout throughout. “Fashion photography is the dream department of photography,” he explains in the introduction to the fashion images. “When you’re a fashion photographer, everything is an illusion from the start.” FROM THE WHITE ROOM, VISITORS can explore 10 adjoining rooms, each devoted to a different shoot, with the objects that inspired each shoot prominently displayed. Each is a visual feast of photography, artistic works, film and props spanning multiple centuries and continents, which makes it difficult to decide where to look first. And as one wanders through the rooms, dreamlike garden landscapes and serene

supermodels are often juxtaposed with a frisson of the dark. The Cloud 9 shoot is among the most arresting. Inspired by 16th century paintings of Hindu gods, the vibrantly colourful photos appear to explode in their black-roomed surroundings, reminiscent of India’s Holi festivities. Interestingly, the models are posing in a delphinium field in rural England during a heatwave, underlying Walker’s theme of fashion imagery as illusion. To underline the point, a menagerie of stilt-legged fantastical beasts hang from the ceiling.

When you’re a fashion photographer, everything is an illusion from the start T I M WA L K E R In delicious contrast, Box of Delights is a claustrophobia-inducing pink room lined in ghastly floral wallpaper and matching carpet. On the walls, illustrator and model James Spencer cavorts in a sumptuous floral gown, the setting inspired by a 17th century embroidered casket which is on display nearby. An 18th century court Mantua gown – the starting point for Spencer’s dramatic costume – is also on show. Box of Delights is the height of camp and Heath’s favourite room. “I like the fact that it has what you would class as horrible wallpaper, but you can make it work, and that to me is a challenge and very good fun,” she says. “I am always inspired by the kitsch. I like the freedom that comes with people not knowing ➤

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The theatrical threads stitched into Walker’s shoots have been woven into an immersive, surreal experience what it is that they are meant to like.” Having worked with Walker for 20 years, Heath describes him as a risk taker who pushes her beyond her boundaries, recounting an incident where he coerced her into going up in a hot air balloon. “I have done my most reckless things with Tim,” she says with a laugh, telling another tale that’s too likely to lead to trouble to print. Heath is one of several long-term collaborators among Walker’s circle of stylists, models, hair and make-up artists and it’s clear that he inspires a wealth of devotion and admiration among those he works with. His willingness to share the spotlight is evidenced by the list of names accompanying his in the introductions to each room.

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BROWN SAW THIS COLLABORATION in action during the ambitious shoots leading up to the exhibition. “You realise it is not only about Tim’s aesthetic skill and craftsmanship as a photographer, but it is also about him being like the conductor of the orchestra or the director of the play,” she says. “Tim does that with such grace and he makes it look very effortless. I think part of the reason he often collaborates with the same people is because, once you find those people you know are willing to give 110% every time and who can see the magic in the way that you see it, that’s very precious.” Collaboration is also at the heart of the many short films showcased alongside the photographs. And beyond the exhibition, several of Walker’s films feature in the V&A’s permanent galleries. His latest, The Steadfast Tin Soldier, is a balletic interpretation of a Hans Christian Andersen fairytale, with

music by Björk and narration by Game of Thrones star Gwendoline Christie. Fans of Walker’s fashion imagery can expect to be both satiated and confronted by Wonderful Things, which he aptly describes as an “attempt to capture my encounter with the sublime.” Throughout the exhibition, the theatrical threads stitched into Walker’s shoots have been skilfully woven into an immersive, surreal experience, that plays with the diverse influences which have inspired the photographer’s work over the years. Yet, Wonderful Things is much more than picking apart the tangles of Walker’s past – it’s about exploring new strands of creativity and looking beyond conventional notions of beauty under a myriad of guises. What a wonderfully rich and magical tapestry Walker’s world is. ➤ Tim Walker: Wonderful Things runs

until 8 March 2020 at London’s V&A

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the face of blondie P U N K M A R I LY N. POP GODDESS. ICON OF COOL. DEBBIE H ARRY H AS BEEN ALL THESE THINGS A N D M O R E . N O W, A S THE BLONDIE SINGER PUBLISHES HER AU T O B I O G R A P H Y FA C E I T, PAU L B U R S T O N L O OK S BAC K AT A N EXTRAORDI NARY L I FE AND RECALLS AN EARLIER ENCOUNTER W ITH POP ’ S ORIGINAL AMBITIOUS BLONDE

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M USIC & NIG HT LIFE

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EBBIE HARRY IS DEBATING whether to buy a shirt she has seen in Joseph. “It’s really beautiful,” she sighs, running a gentle hand over her bleachedblond tresses and smiling happily. It’s a smile so wide it looks almost painful, a smile so familiar it immediately brings back memories of school discos, skinny ties and Heart Of Glass. Then it’s gone. She frowns and fixes me with those sleepy, blue eyes. “But, y’know what?” she says. “It is very expensive. I’m not sure. What would you do?” I tell her that I would probably buy it now and worry about it later and she snorts with laughter. “He’s a great believer in that,” she says, gesturing towards Chris Stein, co-founder of Blondie, one-time boyfriend and still her right-hand man. “I think you should buy it”, Stein says. “You never know what could happen. You could die in a minute. A meteor could come through this ceiling and kill you right now.” The year is 1999 and I’m interviewing Debbie Harry for The Guardian Weekend Magazine to mark the reunion of Blondie. A few weeks from now, the band’s comeback single Maria will shoot

It’s hard to imagine how anyone could have overlooked Blondie in the band’s heyday to number one in the UK charts. Thankfully, a meteor didn’t come crashing through the ceiling and kill them before they could enjoy their second flush of success. But, for now, Harry and her bandmates seem a little uncertain about how well their much-publicised reunion will be received. IT’S HARD TO IMAGINE HOW ANYONE COULD HAVE overlooked Blondie in the band’s heyday. Between 1978 and 1981, Blondie clocked up an impressive five number-one singles in Britain (Heart Of Glass, Sunday Girl, Atomic, Call Me and The Tide Is High), plus a string of top-twenty hits that guaranteed their place in pop history (Denis, Picture This, Hanging On The Telephone, Union City Blue). Their musical range was extraordinary, combining the sweet sounds of sixties girl bands and surf music with the harsher elements of New York punk, art pop, disco, reggae and rap. And there, at the centre of it all, was Debbie Harry: the original ambitious blonde pop goddess, the punk Marilyn, the prototype Madonna. By the time I met Harry she’d gained a reputation as a notoriously difficult interviewee. I have to say, this wasn’t my experience of her at all. She was clearly wary of the press, as anyone would be after some of the things that had been written about her. She was 53 when we met, and the tabloid knives were out for a woman who had the audacity to front a band and look the way she did – not quite the sex symbol of yesteryear, but still an enormously charismatic star with a ➤

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With fame came introductions to other famous people, not least Andy Warhol, William Burroughs and David Bowie somewhat idiosyncratic sense of style. Harry is the only woman who ever looked good in a day-glo yellow jumpsuit, and is the same woman who made a dustbin-liner dress look magnificent in the iconic video for Blondie’s smash hit, Atomic. The day we met, she’d opted for something slightly more-demure: a blue check two-piece, complete with bum-bag and chunky boots. I asked about her reputation. Was it true that she spent an entire interview trying to slip the word ‘masturbation’ into the conversation as many times as possible? Yes, it was. On another occasion, did she really challenge the man interviewing her to a fist fight, over the telephone? She laughed. “But I say these things as jokes, y’know. Some of the people they send to interview you are so straight. I say these things to amuse myself, and then they start scribbling them down.” So, it wasn’t true that she once planned to run away with Patti Smith and live in a lesbian commune? “I do live in a lesbian commune,” she said, trying her best to sound convincing. “Write that down. Debbie Harry lives in a lesbian commune.” For the record, Harry did not live in a lesbian commune then and does not live in a lesbian commune now. She may be a committed ally of the LGBTQ community, but she lives alone with her dogs. Her morning routine is simple. She walks the dogs, makes herself a coffee and reads in bed for an hour. I know this because she’s finally written her autobiography, and a fascinating read it is too, filled with insights and illustrated with famous portraits, backstage photos and fan art. Face It tells the story of how an adopted little girl from New Jersey grew up to become a pop icon and the international ambassador of New York City cool. Why Face It? Partly because Harry knows that her face is her fortune. “I take advantage of my looks and I use them”. Partly because she’s never been afraid to face facts. “I was playing up the idea of being a very feminine woman while fronting a male rock band in a highly macho game”, she writes of her 70s Blondie persona. “I was saying things in songs that female singers really didn’t say back then. I wasn’t submissive or begging him to come back. I was kicking ass, kicking him out, kicking my own ass too. My Blondie character was an inflatable doll with a dark, provocative, aggressive side.” It’s fair to say that not everyone appreciated this at the time. In the late 70s and early 80s, female singers weren’t supposed

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to go out on stage without any knickers, playing the part of the blonde bombshell and refusing to apologise for their sexuality. As Harry sang on the band’s third single, there were plenty of people willing to “rip her to shreds.” “All the things that Debbie got rapped for are really commonplace now,” drummer Clem Burke told me in 1999. “To be a beautiful woman, and to play rock music, and to use her sexuality like that – people really came down hard on her. I remember there was one picture of Debbie with her tongue sticking out, licking a record. That caused so much trouble.” “I did it all very consciously,” Harry asserted. “I wanted to inject some of that film-star glamour and I didn’t want to be portrayed as a victim. I felt that a lot of women in music sang songs about being victimised. I mean, I love Janis Joplin and I love a lot of the old soul singers, but I really didn’t want to do that. I wanted to be more playful about it and also sing in the third person, like with Sunday Girl. It was more like telling a story.” IN FACE IT, HARRY WRITES OPENLY ABOUT THE pitfalls of fame and the sex, drugs and rock and roll lifestyle. “Fame was a sensual sort of feeling, initially,” she writes. “It felt like having sex, a wash of electricity coursing through your fingers and up your legs, sometimes a flushed feeling at the base of your throat.” And with fame came introductions to other famous people, not least Andy Warhol, William Burroughs and David Bowie. In one memorable scene, Harry is backstage with Bowie and Iggy Pop and Bowie pulls out his penis in front of her “as if I were the official cock checker or something. Since I was in an allmale band, maybe they figured I really was the cock-check lady.” In another chapter, Harry and Chris Stein are attacked by a man who breaks into their apartment, steals Stein’s guitars and then forces himself sexually on the singer. “The stolen guitars hurt me more than the rape”, Harry writes, somewhat controversially. In an another equally disturbing incident, our heroine accepts a lift from a smartly dressed man. They drive in silence, until the man’s body odour becomes so overwhelming she tries to open the car window, only to find that there’s no window crank or door handle. “The hair on the back of my neck stood up. Every instinct was on full alert.” She managed to escape and thought no more of it until 15 years later when she opened a newspaper and read about the execution of notorious serial killer Ted Bundy. “There was a photo of him. He gave the journalist a description of his car and his modus operandi and how he got his victims and it matched exactly what had happened to me.” Others have argued that Bundy was in Florida and not New York at the time of Harry’s abduction, but she remains adamant, “It was him.” She’s refreshingly open about the fact that she’s had plastic surgery. “I think it’s the same as having a flu shot, basically, another way of looking after yourself.” But there have been times when she didn’t look after herself as well as she might ➤

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As Debbie Harry writes in Face It, she’s still a New York punk at heart commitment to Madonna, and this feeling that I was being viewed as some sort of competitive thing that they couldn’t devote much time or energy to.” She turned her attention to acting, earning plaudits for her roles in films like Hairspray. In the mid 90s, she appeared as a featured vocalist with contemporary free-jazz outfit the Jazz Passengers. “I think I’ve been kind of lucky with that,” she told me in 1999. “I’ve had the chance to do a bit of experimentation, retreat from the spotlight of being a pop star, and just work as a singer and as an artist. All artists need to hide behind closed doors sometimes.” Still, when people started turning up at Jazz Passengers gigs dressed in vintage Blondie T-shirts, Harry couldn’t resist the pull of nostalgia.

have done. She’s disarmingly honest about her drug use. “I didn’t care for coke too much – it made me jittery and wired and it affected my throat.” But she soon developed a taste for heroin. “I felt a kind of rush I’d never felt before. And I thought, Oh, this is so nice, so relaxing, aah, I don’t have to think about things.” In classic rock and roll style, it was drug addiction that contributed to Blondie splitting in the early 80s, at the height of their success. Then Chris Stein became ill with a rare autoimmune disease and Harry spent the next few years nursing him back to health. “The press were trying to portray me as the second coming of Mother Theresa,” she writes in Face It. “But that’s ridiculous. He was my partner. Of course I would look after him.” But when she wasn’t by his bedside, she was out looking for a fix. “The heroin was a great consolation. I would head out in the middle of the night and score by myself.” In the mid 80s, she pursued a solo career. But by now she was pushing forty and there was another ambitious blonde on the same record label, a young wannabe by the name of Madonna. “My relationship with Warners was really over by then,” Harry told me in 1999. “I felt overshadowed by their

IT’S NO COINCIDENCE THAT BLONDIE’S 1999 comeback album was called No Exit. The title comes from a play by Jean Paul Sartre, with its famous quote, “Hell is other people”. From the time the band split in 1982 until they reformed in 1997, hell was other members of Blondie. “I can’t speak for everyone,” Debbie told me back then. “But Chris and I were certainly estranged for a while.” In the past, she had been less tactful about the split, saying that “hate had a lot to do with it”. Since their 1997 reunion, the band has remained together, more or less. The line-up may change, but Harry and Stein remain as professionally committed to one another as they’ve been since first forming Blondie way back in 1974. The band’s most recent album, Pollinator, is as good as anything Harry and Stein have produced. In her book, Harry explains that the title refers to the cross-pollination of musical influences which have been part of Blondie’s sound since the start. But she also keeps bees and is personally dedicated to “the desperate plight of honey bees and other pollinators struggling to live with pollutants and pesticides”. For the accompanying live shows, she appeared on stage wearing a giant bee head and a jacket that read “Stop Fucking The Planet.” As she writes in Face It, she’s still a New York punk at heart. The book ends with Harry hinting that there may be a follow up. “I still have so much more to tell, but being such a private person, I might not tell everything.” This is exactly what you’d expect a queen bee of her calibre to say. Forty-five years after Blondie played the band’s first gig, Debbie Harry shows no sign of slowing down. “I’m still here,” she writes. “I have had one fuck of an interesting life and I plan to go on having one.” With her track record, I’m sure she’ll make it glorious. ➤ Face It by Debbie Harry is published by Harper Collins

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LIT T L E B L AC K B O O K

AFRAID OF MICE ➤ afraidofmice.com

ALEX ➤ campbellgrayhotels.com/alex-lake-zurich

FOREIGN CINEMA ➤ foreigncinema.com

ALEXANDRA HÖJER ATELIER ➤ alexandrahojer.com

FRANSCHHOEK WINE TRAM ➤ winetram.co.za

AMAN KYOTO ➤ aman.com/resorts/aman-kyoto

FYN ➤ fynrestaurant.com

ANPA ➤ anpa.co.za ASOKA ➤ asoka.za.com ATI-ATIHAN ➤ atiatihan.ph AYURVEDA RESORT SONNHOF ➤ sonnhof-ayurveda.at

GOODMAN GALLERY ➤ goodman-gallery.com

BELLY OF THE BEAST ➤ bellyofthebeast.co.za

BELMOND GRAND HOTEL EUROPE ➤ belmond.com

HOGMANAY ➤ edinburghshogmanay.com

BARRANQUILLA CARNIVAL ➤ carnavaldebarranquilla.org

HARBIN ICE FESTIVAL ➤ icefestivalharbin.com

BERLINALE ➤ berlinale.de

HOPE DISTILLERY ➤ hopedistillery.co.za

BIG BASIN REDWOODS STATE PARK ➤ parks.ca.gov/bigbasin

HÔTEL DES GRANDS BOULEVARDS ➤ grandsboulevardshotel.com

BILLABONG PIPE MASTERS ➤ worldsurfleague.com

BURNING THE CLOCKS ➤ facebook.com/burningtheclocks

BVLGARI HOTEL SHANGHAI ➤ bulgarihotels.com/shanghai

INTERCONTINENTAL BALI RESORT ➤ bali.intercontinental.com

BLAZING SADDLES ➤ blazingsaddles.com BLOSSOM ➤ sofitel-paris-lefaubourg.com BRASSERIE URBAINE ➤ mltr.fr/en/restauration

CAPE COBRA LEATHERCRAFT ➤ capecobra.com CAPE POINT ➤ capepoint.co.za CARACTÈRE ➤ caractererestaurant.com

IL RISTORANTE – LUCA FANTIN, BALI ➤ bulgarihotels.com IZIKO SOUTH AFRICAN NATIONAL GALLERY ➤ iziko.org.za

JUNKANOO ➤ bahamas.com/junkanoo

CAVALLI ESTATE ➤ cavalliestate.com

CHIHULY GARDEN AND GLASS ➤ chihulygardenglass.com

KINGS ARMS HOTE ➤ kingsarmshamptoncourt.com

CHINA LIVE ➤ chinalivesf.com

KLONDIKE GOLD RUSH NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK ➤ nps.gov/klse

CAROLE NEVIN DESIGNS ➤ carolenevin.co.za CARTAGENA MUSIC FESTIVAL ➤ cartagenamusicfestival.com CAUSE | EFFECT Cocktail Kitchen ➤ causeandeffect.co.za

CLUB ED SURF SCHOOL ➤ club-ed.com COLUMBIA STATE HISTORIC PARK ➤ visitcolumbiacalifornia.com CONCANNON ➤ concannonvineyard.com

DAXING AIRPORT, BEIJING ➤ daxing-pkx-airport.com

ESPIRIT DU 12ÈME ➤ pullmanpariscentrebercy.com EVERARD READ, FRANSCHHOEK ➤ everard-read-franschhoek.co.za

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FERRY BUILDING ➤ ferrybuildingmarketplace.com

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KENSINGTON PLACE ➤ kensingtonplace.co.za

LABOTESSA ➤ labotessa.com LE GAVROCHE ➤ le-gavroche.co.uk LELAND HIGH SIERRA SNOW PLAY ➤ snowplay.com LES COCOTTES AT SOFITEL ARC DE TRIOMPHE ➤ lescocottes.paris LION 500 ➤ facebook.com/pg/thelion500 LIVERMORE WINE TROLLEY ➤ livermorewinetrolley.com LON RETREAT & SPA ➤ lonretreat.com.au

F E AT U R E D I N T H I S I S S U E O F T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

STEVENSON ➤ stevenson.info SUPER BOWL 54 ➤ nfl.com/super-bowl

MEVLANA FESTIVAL ➤ mevlanamuzesi.com

MICHEL ROUX JR. ➤ michelroux.co.uk

THE ART OF DUPLICITY ➤ 170120.co.za

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, JUMEIRA ➤ mandarinoriental.com/dubai MCCAFFREY HOUSE B&B ➤ mccaffreyhouse.com MERCHANTS ON LONG ➤ facebook.com/merchantscapetown

MUNGO ➤ mungo.co.za

NORVAL FOUNDATION ➤ norvalfoundation.org

OLYMPIC SCULPTURE PARK ➤ seattleartmuseum.org

PERRY LANE HOTEL ➤ perrylanehotel.com PIKE PLACE CHOWDER ➤ pikeplacechowder.com PIKE PLACE MARKET ➤ pikeplacemarket.org PIONEER SQUARE, SEATTLE ➤ pioneersquare.org

THE ATHLETIC CLUB & SOCIAL ➤ theathletic.co.za THE COACHMAN HOTEL, TAHOE ➤ coachmantahoe.com THE DUCHESS OF WISBEACH ➤ duchessofwisbeach.co.za THE GIRL & THE FIG ➤ thegirlandthefig.com THE HOUSE OF MACHINES ➤ thehouseofmachines.com THE OBEROI, NEW DELHI ➤ oberoihotels.com/hotels-in-delhi THE POT LUCK CLUB ➤ thepotluckclub.co.za THE ROSE, PLEASANTON ➤ rosehotel.net THE SPHERES, SEATTLE ➤ seattlespheres.com THE SILO HOTEL & ROOFTOP ➤ theroyalportfolio.com THE ST. REGIS SAN FRANCISCO ➤ stregissanfrancisco.com TIMBER COVE RESORT ➤ timbercoveresort.com TJING TJING ROOFTOP BAR ➤ tjingtjing.co.za

UNITED PLACES ➤ unitedplaces.com.au

VIENNA CHRISTMAS MARKETS ➤ wien.info VINTERJAZZ ➤ jazz.dk

RIO CARNIVAL ➤ rio-carnival.net

VISIT CALIFORNIA ➤ visitcalifornia.co.uk

ROBERT SHERWOOD DESIGN ➤ robertsherwooddesign.com

VISIT MAMMOTH ➤ visitmammoth.com

ROUX SCHOLARSHIP ➤ rouxscholarship.co.uk

VISIT SEATTLE ➤ visitseattle.org VISIT TRI-VALLEY ➤ visittrivalley.com VISIT TUOLUMNE COUNTY ➤ visittuolumne.com

SANTA CRUZ ➤ santacruz.org

SAPPORO SNOW FESTIVAL ➤ snowfes.com

WENTE VINEYARDS ➤ wentevineyards.com

SABIO ON MAIN ➤ sabiopleasanton.com SALSIFY ➤ salsify.co.za

WAKAKUSA YAMAYAKI ➤ jnto.go.jp

SEASCAPE BEACH RESORT ➤ seascaperesort.com

WESTIN MONACHE ➤ marriott.com

SHADDOWBROOK ➤ shadowbrook-capitola.com

WHATIFTHEWORLD ➤ whatiftheworld.com

SHINTA MANI WILD ➤ bensleycollection.com/shintamani-wild

SPACE NEEDLE, SEATTLE ➤ spaceneedle.com

SONOMA COUNTY ➤ sonomacounty.com

YOSEMITE ➤ yosemite.com

SOMERSET HOUSE SKATING ➤ somerset.org.uk

ZEITZ MOCAA ➤ zeitzmocaa.museum

SOUTH AFRICA NATIONAL PARKS ➤ sanparks.org

ZURI ZANZIBAR HOTEL ➤ zurizanzibar.com

SHIRO’S SUSHI, SEATTLE ➤ shiros.com SFMOMA ➤ sfmoma.org SKADI ➤ skadirestaurant.com

INDEX

W E B A DDR E S S E S A N D PAGE N U M BE R S F OR E V E RY P L AC E

YERBA BUENA GARDENS ➤ yerbabuenagardens.com

SOUTH LAKE TAHOE ➤ tahoesouth.com

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T R AV E L T I P S F R O M T H E T O P

antonio berardi

I F YOU ’ R E AT T H E T OP OF YOUR GA M E A N D A SEASON ED G L O B E T R O T T E R , W H AT S I M P LY M U S T BE W ITH YOU ON-BOARD A FL IGHT ? W E A S K E D C E L E B R AT E D FA S H I O N DESIGNER ANTONIO BERARDI

COLOGNE The first thing I think of packing is scent. I use Vetiver Extraordinaire by Frederic Malle on a flight, and Mouchoir de Monsieur and Jicky, both by Guerlain, day-to-day. I love subtle classics and tend to wear one on the front of the neck and one on the back because, when you greet someone, there should be deliciousness from all sides!

FACE CLEANSER Hand sanitiser is

a given on a flight but you also need something for a quick spruce up or to wash your face. A 50ml Caudalie Instant Foaming Cleanser Fleur De Vigne is always with me on-board and leaves my skin feeling clean and fresh. Eau Thermale Avène thermal spring water spray calms and softens skin and works amazingly on long haul flights. I also pack a bar of unscented soap since I’m not one for shower gels!

GLOBE-TROTTER CARRY-ON

A birthday gift from my best friend Sophia, this has become my favourite travel companion. Timeless, stylish, modern and functional – I never travel without it, and it has become something of a safety blanket, rather like Paddington bear’s suitcase! PJS + SLIPPERS I am dubious of

airline travel sets and like to be in my comfort zone on long-haul flights, so I always travel with a pair of pyjamas and slippers. BE PREPARED! I carry fresh underwear, socks and a clean shirt just in case my luggage doesn’t arrive, or I have a meeting as soon as I get off the plane. For a person who has lost so much luggage over the years I like to be prepared, at least for a day. WET WIPES As Naomi Campbell says, wet wipes should be everyone’s essential when travelling. Planes are not always cleaned between flights, so I always make sure I am prepared. I am also am not a fan of the hot towels passed around, so I have my own.

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BOOKS As a result of being a helpless

insomniac I’m a ferocious reader. I’ve been through a Kindle phase but much prefer the real thing. Above all, I love the smell of books, turning pages and underlining great phrases. I usually make room for two or three in my luggage depending on how long my trip is. Right now I’m reading The Painted Bird by Jerzy Kosinski and The Beautiful Ones by Prince – my all-time favourite artist. IPOD + B&O SPEAKER

I have far too much music to store on my phone so always carry an iPod, which I reach for once I have seen everything I want to see on the in-flight entertainment. The speaker kicks in when I get to my destination. Music is even more inspiring when travelling because it brings back memories and keeps me in the moment. Like books, music means that I am never lonely when travelling. NOTEBOOK + PENCIL

Unless I have tight deadlines I don’t tend

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to draw when I’m away, but I do like to make notes, which can be extremely expressive or just simple words and phrases. I take note of what I see, read and hear. The fun lies in deciphering my notes once I’m back on terra firma! HEADED CARDS, POSTCARDS + FOUNTAIN PEN Mainly for work

purposes, headed cards and envelopes are usually in my carry-on. If I need to thank someone or send flowers at the last minute, I like to be personal. I also carry a fountain pen with brown ink to write them with. There’s nothing like a fountain pen, which also comes in handy if you find beautiful postcards on your travels. To receive a wonderful postcard from someone feels like a special treat nowadays. Stamps can be left to the concierge!

The Cultured Traveller, December 2019-February 2020 Issue 28

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