The Cultured Traveller, June-August 2020 Issue 30 by The Cultured Traveller

RESORTS ON EVERY CONTINENT from the comfort of your armchair

6 SPECTACULAR SUITES for a postpandemic splurge

In conversation with PAUL OAKENFOLD, KELLY HOPPEN & JACOB COLLIER

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Mankind will ultimately find a way to live with Covid-19... potentially through the discovery of a vaccine or more effective ways to prevent its spread. But it might take time. Our lives will eventually return to a new normality and we will one day be able to travel again. For now, we can dream about where we might visit next and use the time to plan and research the places that excite us most. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU EDITOR-IN- CHIEF

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Kachi Lodge, Uyuni Salt Flats, Bolivia

38 MOROCCO’S NEW HO S P I TA L I T Y DE L IGH T

132 T H E SKY ’ S T H E L I M I T F OR JAC OB

Set amidst 28 acres of bucolic grounds, olive and orange groves, in the shadow of the Atlas Mountains, THE OBEROI MARRAKECH was more than seven years in construction and is home to just 84 super-deluxe rooms, suites and villas, most of which boast private pools and gardens. The Cultured Traveller takes a look.

As multi Grammy award-winning singer and genre-blurring virtuoso musician JACOB COLLIER prepares to release a new album, The Cultured Traveller sits down with the talented creative dynamo at his home in North London.

10 9 B L I S S F U L LY DISCONNECTED IN THE SRI LANKAN JUNGLE Almost totally off the grid and devoid of modern comforts, Alex Benasuli visits the remote, lantern-lit yoga retreat of ULPOTHA, where the setting is as idyllic as the classes.

74 S P E N D F OU R N I G H T S I N C U B A’ S C H A R I S M AT IC H E A RT Stylish new SO/ Paseo del Prado hotel is just a minute from the heart of Old Havana. Win a four-night stay overlooking Havana’s Malecón, including dinner for two at the hotel’s happening rooftop bar and restaurant, HI SO.

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128 C OOK U P A GOURMET STORM One of the world’s most famous chefs and part of a dynasty of culinary wizards, MICHEL ROUX JR. shares two of his classic recipes with The Cultured Traveller, so you can whip up some gourmet cuisine at home, while the restaurant scene still reels from the effects of the coronavirus pandemic.

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CONTENTS 13 E D I T OR ’ S L E T T E R

76 S U I T E E N V Y

14 W H E R E T O N E X T ? While globetrotting is largely on hold at the moment, this is the only question currently on the lips of The Cultured Traveller team!

As much of the world is still in some state of lockdown or at the very least carefully emerging from hibernation, The Cultured Traveller checks into six of Europe’s most fabulous hotel suites, any of which would be perfect for a decadent post-pandemic splurge!

26 R E ST YOU R H E A D

The Cultured Traveller virtually jets around the globe, dropping anchor at some of world’s most fantastic resorts, including the newest distinctively British hotel estate, THE NEWT IN SOMERSET; hip Swedish destination for global culture vultures and art lovers, WANÅS; luxurious MOMBO CAMP in the thick of the African wilderness; MIAVANA on the private island of Nosy Ankao off Madagascar’s northeastern shore, and Bill Bensley’s incredible SHINTA MANI WILD, built along a river valley in the Cambodian rainforest.

90 FIVE MINUTES WITH Named the world’s number one DJ twice, Paul Oakenfold has shaped dance music and EDM culture for more than four decades. The Cultured Traveller grabs five minutes with the music industry legend.

92 NO SHOE S REQUIRED Integrated in primary healthcare in India for decades, Ayurveda is today taken more seriously in the West as an alternative medicinal system. As

143 the world navigates its way out of the coronavirus crisis, The Cultured Traveller rounds-up the BEST AYURVEDIC RETREATS on the planet, to reset our bodies and glean the most from one of the world’s oldest holistic healing systems.

10 6 T R AV E L L E R L OW D OW N A veritable melting pot of cobbled lanes, hidden bars, art galleries, foodie heavens and vibrant nightspots, Dawn Gibson explores Australia’s most culturally sophisticated city: MELBOURNE.

11 8 T A S T E & S I P R E V I E W At NOBU MIAMI in Mid-Beach, Alex Benasuli discovers that the famed Japanese restaurant brand founded in 1994, which today numbers more than forty locations spanning multiple continents, more than still lives up to the hype.

12 4 TA S T E & SIP EXPERIENCE

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Brainchild of Gucci’s superstar creative director Alessandro Michele, Nicholas Chrisostomou visits the global brand’s unique restaurant, gallery and concept store in Florence, GUCCI GARDEN, where the fine diner, museum goer and fashion aficionado gracefully coalesce.

14 3 S T Y L I S H GLOBETROTTER The Cultured Traveller discovers the secrets to the phenomenal success of the globetrotting author, entrepreneur and ambassador for brand Britain, KELLY HOPPEN, who has been at the top of the design game for the best part of four decades.

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

N I C H O L AS C H R I S O STO M O U P U B L I S H E R C O C O L AT T É DESIGN STUART MANNING PICTURE EDITING STELLA ALEVIZAKI THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS

Alex Benasuli, Joe Mortimer Dawn Gibson, Robert Sherwood Carolyn McKay, Paul Burston WITH THANKS TO

Lauren McCarthy, Joe Baxter The Cultured Traveller magazine is published by Coco Latté Advertising and sponsorship enquiries: ads@theculturedtraveller.com Editorial enquiries words@theculturedtraveller.com Subscription enquiries subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com

T H E C U L T U R E D T R AV E L L E R ➤ ISSUE 30 © 2020 Coco Latté. All rights reserved Reproduction in part or in whole of any part of this magazine is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of its respective contributors and writers and are not necessarily shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff. The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles, photographs or other materials submitted.

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EDITOR’ S LET TER

From left to right: Ulpotha, Sri Lanka; Michel Roux Jr.; Conrad Bora Bora Nui; One & Only Gorilla’s Nest

WE ARE LIVING in uniquely challenging times. Pulling together a publication dedicated to globetrotting and discovery has not been an easy task in these extraordinary circumstances, but with every restriction comes an escape of sorts. So I am hopeful that in this special Lockdown Issue we provide you with a means to hope and see beyond the gloomy present to a much brighter future. Mankind will ultimately find a way to live with Covid-19 – potentially through the discovery of a vaccine or more effective ways to prevent its spread. But it might take time. Our lives will eventually return to a new normality and we will one day be able to travel again. For now, we can dream about where we might visit next and use the time to plan and research the places that excite us most. When I was young and first started to travel, I would type the addresses of my family and school friends onto sheets of sticky labels, so that I could send postcards to everyone while I was away. When my travelling became more frequent and technology developed, I would produce the labels using my computer. Every destination I visited was researched intensely, weeks before I set-off. When the Covid-19 pandemic ensued, most of us didn’t have the time or inclination to properly study the places we were jetting to. In fact, some of us just put pins in maps, booked flights and took-off. In many respects, it’s not such a bad thing that those days are gone. The silver lining to the current crisis is that travelling will become more valuable to every one of us. Flying will become special again, rather than an everyday experience akin to getting on a sky bus. We will take time to do our homework before reaching a destination, so that we can make the most of it on arrival. All of this will put the magic back into travelling and that magic starts here on the pages of this special edition of The Cultured Traveller.

In this, our 30th issue, we drop anchor at two dozen of the world’s most alluring resorts, spanning every continent on the planet (p26). The team checks into six of Europe’s most fabulous hotel suites, any one of which would be perfect for a decadent post-pandemic splurge (p76). While restaurants everywhere are shuttered, Michel Roux Jr. opens his cookbook so you can try your hand at preparing gourmet food at home (p128). We round-up the best places for an Ayurvedic retreat to reset our bodies after the coronavirus crisis has passed (p92). And we chat with iconic DJ Paul Oakenfold, interior designer Kelly Hoppen and Grammy award-winning musical dynamo Jacob Collier. I hope that you find something in The Lockdown Issue which inspires you to travel again, when we’re allowed to do so. For to travel is to discover and to discover is to learn; and life is all about learning.

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief

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where to next?

➤FERNANDO DE NORONHA PAU L B U R S T O N ➤ @paulburston1

THE TIP OF A SUBMERGED VOLCANIC formation off the northeast tip of Brazil, Fernando de Noronha is one of the most magical places I’ve ever visited. One of 21 islands which make up the

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archipelago, all of which are environmentally protected and only one of which is inhabited (Noronha), visitor numbers are strictly controlled to preserve the island’s untamed nature and there’s virtually no traffic. The island is sparsely populated. There are only a handful of small hotels. Many of the

beaches can only be reached by foot and are totally unspoiled, making Noronha the nation’s most paradisaical destination. As well as seabirds, reptiles and several endemic species, Noronha is home to the largest population of spinner dolphins anywhere in the world. There are lookout points where people

gather at dawn to watch them swimming in from the open ocean. It’s an incredible sight. If you’re lucky, you’ll encounter a pod while snorkelling. Diving with giant shoals of blue and neon green fish, while rays and skates glide over the sandy sea floor and turtles paddle just under the waves, is the norm in this stunning marine heaven.

Morro do Pico, overlooking Cacimba do Padre beach on Fernando de Noronha island

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➤ O K A V A N G O D E LTA , B O T S W A N A ROB E RT SH E RWO OD ➤ @robert_sherwood

A MAZE OF OVERGROWN ISLANDS, glistening lagoons, seasonal ponds and wandering channels, Botswana’s Okavango Delta is one of the planet’s greatest wetlands and sustains a wealth of natural life. This is one part of the world untouched by the

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coronavirus which is terrorising its human population. Flying in from the region’s gateway of Maun to the landing strip of your lodge, provides a unique and important opportunity to view the geography of the delta, which is important to know when on terra firma. The further in you fly the more water you see, especially during the peak months of June through

August, when the abundance of water attracts the most animals, thereby creating one of Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatest concentrations of wildlife. By opening trails that become channels, elephants add to the deltaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s geographical dynamism. The experience of riding in a traditional mokoro, to one of the deltaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s many islands, and

then tracking lion behind a gun-less ranger, makes one look at nature and our role in it in a very different way. Ending the day in a boat, with hippo at your side and wild birds calling, to the backdrop of a glowing sunset, is one of the most memorable natural travel experiences on the planet.

Wild hippopotamuses in the waters of the Okavango Delta in Botswana

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➤M A R R A K E C H C A R O LY N M c K AY ➤ @newcarolyn

THERE ARE FEW places on the planet as atmospheric and such an all-round sensual assault as the souks of Marrakech. I positively relish the day I emerge from a riad and step into the maze of laneways that make

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up Marrakech’s lively medina, enclosed by kilometres of 12th Century walls. The perfect day here is to wander and wonder, with no set plans, and be swept along in this ancient city brimming with life. After the virus crisis has subdued, the hustle and bustle will undoubtedly be welcome. All lanes lead to famed Jemaa el-Fnaa,

Marrakechâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main square and the happening epicentre of the medina. By day it is filled with vibrantly clad water carriers, teeth pullers, snake charmers and magicians. Carts are piled high with ruby red pomegranates and succulent oranges. As dusk settles, food stalls abound and the smoky haze entices visitors to take a seat at

tables filled with fresh breads, grilled seafoods and overflowing tagines. As you pause at charming CafĂŠ Des Epices to sip some mint tea, the mosaic of colour and energy below and air laden with the scents of cinnamon, ginger and chili will remind one how travelling the world dazzles and excites and life goes on.

The atmospheric souks of Marrakechâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s medina

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➤SOUTHERN THAILAND D AW N G I B S O N ➤ @dawncreativeme

DIPPING ONE’S TOES in crystalline waters on a white sand beach fringing the Andaman Sea is pure bliss and somewhat hard to beat. While Phuket in southern Thailand has sadly become a byword for some of the worst indulgences of

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modern tourism, it is also a gateway to a plethora of idyllic islands nearby, with some of the more obscure providing the best experiences. Part of Phang Nga province and just over 80 kilometres northwest of Phuket, the protected Similan Islands is a paradise-like archipelago of eleven isles, access to which is limited to

protect the environment. Here, one can snorkel in sleepy turquoise coves overlooked by lush greenery and giant boulders, dive to see octopus in the wild and marvel at the balletic elegance of a stingray’s glide. Whale sharks – those gentle giants of the deep – can also be spotted between January and May.

Named after a rock on the north side of the bay that resembles the cartoon character, Donald Duck Bay, located on the northwest side of Ko Similan, provides shallow, crystal-clear waters perfect for easy diving and snorkelling. As you bob around, you will almost certainly chance upon large green turtles which call the bay their home.

Fringed by a pristine beach, Donald Duck Bay is one of the most photogenic in southern Thailand

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➤NAMIBIA ALEX BENASU LI ➤ @lonealex69

AN EPIC LAND OF VAST BEAUTY, whilst Namibia’s breathtaking landscape is mostly filled with desert, it is also incredibly diverse. From the serene splendour of the Namib Desert to the desolate Skeleton Coast and the rich wildlife

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sanctuaries of Etosha, Namibia is nothing if not extreme and brimming with natural wonders. Forgo a 4x4 in favour of chartering a private plane to get a birds-eye view of Namibia’s charismatic coastline. Then criss-cross the country, from one landing strip to another, each more hidden than the next, and revel in your

personal African adventure. The north of the country takes in Etosha National Park, home of the elusive black rhino as well as the Kunene River on the Angolan border, where the ancient Himba tribe lives in mud huts. Flying south, hundreds of kilometres along the desolate but striking Skeleton Coast sees

the carcasses of shipwrecks past, plus one of the largest seal colonies in the southern hemisphere. Also in the south, the Soussuslevi sand dunes are the world’s highest. Their unique, rust-coloured silhouette, offset by bright blue skies and salt-formed white valleys, is one of the most iconic natural images on the planet.

Namibia’s Cape fur seal colony is one of the largest in the world

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➤ PATAG O N I A JOE MORT I M E R ➤ @joemorts

IF NATURAL HISTORY HAS TAUGHT US anything, it’s that isolation means survival. Just look at the penguin colonies of South Georgia, or the flocks of blue-footed boobies that cover the beaches of the Galapagos. Nature thrives in the

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places where man’s impact is least. We’ve all been in some form of isolation for the last few months, to limit human contact to slow the spread of the terrible coronavirus. Confined within four walls, I’ve frequently been transported back to the spectral landscapes of Patagonia, where howling winds lash the land

and mighty peaks make visitors feel insignificant and humble. Photographs of a condor circling high above, or a herd of guanaco grazing in a meadow ringed with wildflowers remind me that, as the streets of world capitals are far less busy than usual, life goes on in those wild places, now undisturbed

by the presence of man. I wonder what the sublime scenery of Torres del Paine National Park in southern Chile looks like today, bereft of visitors. I like to imagine mountain hare prancing through empty campsites and solitary Patagonian puma prowling around the visitor centre.

A guanaco stands on the edge of Lake PehoĂŠ in Torres del Paine National Park, in the Magallanes region of southern Chile

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SI NC E W E A R E A L L ST I L L V ERY M UC H GROU N DED, A S T H E C O R O N AV I R U S P A N D E M I C C O N T I N U E S T O P R E S I D E O V E R O U R P L A N E T, H E R E T H E C U L T U R E D T R AV E L L E R V I R T U A L L Y J E T S YOU A R OU N D T H E GL OBE, DR OP P I NG A NC HOR AT S OM E OF WOR L D’ S MO ST A L LU R I NG R E S ORT S I N T H E M O S T FA N T A S T I C D E S T I N A T I O N S , A N Y O F W H IC H WOU L D BE PER F E CT T O EX PL OR E J UST A S S O O N A S W E ’ R E A L L O W E D T O T R AV E L A G A I N

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E P O R U E

THE NEWT IN SOMERSET

SOMERSET ➤ ENGLAN D

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BORDERING GLOUCESTERSHIRE TO THE NORTH, Wiltshire to the east, Dorset to the south-east and Devon to the south-west, the English county of Somerset is one of the country’s most enchanting. Rolling open countryside and stunning sandy beaches are punctuated by wildflower meadows, waterfalls, ancient wells, strawberry fields and hidden, underground reservoirs. Not to mention a plethora of well-known landmarks which, despite seemingly familiar, conceal a multitude of captivating secrets. Six years in the making, author and former editor of Elle Decoration South Africa, Karen Roos and her husband Koos Bekker, who is chairman of technology group Naspers, purchased Grade II-listed Palladian-fronted Hadspen House in 2013. Formerly the seat of the Hobhouse family since the late 18th century, the South African power couple slowly drew up plans to breathe new life into the 800-acre estate by invigorating its gardens and opening a hotel, spa, farm shop and more. Complete with cafés, a gelateria, cider press and garden museum, The Newt in Somerset (as the estate is now known) is one of the most exceptional country house hotels in the UK today, having opened only last year with little fanfare. Located in the same part of the world that spawned Babington House two decades ago, which in itself introduced a whole new breed of distinctively British hotel estates to the unsuspecting well-to-do upper middle classes, The Newt in Somerset has seemingly taken this hospitality genre to a whole new level of smart sophistication and contemporary design. In a deft melding of the historic and new, The Newt’s 23 en-suite guest rooms are simple yet utterly comfortable, skilfully juxtaposing the old and modern. As well as the countless activities surrounding the main house, hotel guests may also avail themselves of a range of onsite leisure facilities more akin to a full-scale resort property, including a spa with sauna, salt steam room and beautiful pool leading to a heated outdoor hydrotherapy pool. There is even a glass walled gym tucked away in the garden. Discreet yet deluxe British country retreats don’t come much more refined and polished than The Newt.

➤ www.thenewtinsomerset.com

KNISLINGE â&#x17E;¤ SWEDEN

WA N Å S

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SET ON A LARGE ESTATE that includes one of Sweden’s biggest organic dairy farms, Kristina and Baltzar Wachtmeister are the ninth generation of the family to be running Wanås (pronounced “Vanoos”). Thanks to its unique mix of a lush country setting, historic architecture, cuttingedge art and a rather good restaurant and inn, Wanås has become a destination for culture vultures and art lovers from around the world. With a history dating back to at least 1440, Wanås estate is home to numerous buildings erected in a variety of architectural styles, anchored by a 1560s step-gabled Renaissance-style castle, to which two wings were added in the 18th century. Beyond the fairytale-like main building, several 19th century farm buildings serve as art spaces, a shop and deli, plus a modest yet stylish 11-room inn and restaurant, the latter serving locally-focused dishes using ingredients from Wanås’ organic farm. Located just outside the village of Knislinge, Wanås makes for a perfect day trip from either Malmö or Copenhagen, both of which are roughly a 90-minute drive away. If you are going to make the 3½ hour train journey from Stockholm followed by the 30-minute taxi ride from the station, you might as well stay overnight in one of Wanås’ eight individually decorated rooms and three junior suites,

which combine Nordic design and sustainability with locally sourced materials in contemporary elegant fashion, mixing vintage furniture, contemporary art, natural materials and rustic walls. Vintage pink-tiled bathrooms, limestone and oak floors, soft beds and custom-made furniture complete the carefully curated rustic-chic aesthetic. More than 80,000 people visited Wanås last year and obviously not all of them stayed at the inn! Most made the trip to visit the world-class art park, Wanås Konst, where more than seventy works are scattered across the property’s 100 acres. You will need a good few hours to see them all. Not to be missed is Ann Hamilton’s “Lignum”, which occupies all five floors of a former farm building. Two multi-sensory installations in the forest are also worth foraging for: Nathalie Djurberg and Hans Berg’s “In Dreams”, and Robert Wilson’s “A House for Edwin Denby”. Other pastimes include walking in the majestic beech forest, relaxing in front of a roaring fire in the lounge, stargazing on a starry night or enjoying a long Scandinavian summer evening. The inn’s mudroom is equipped with boots and rain jackets to cater for every outdoor eventuality. After uncovering many of the estate’s hidden gems, guests venturing out for a short evening stroll have been known to return late into the night. ➤ www.wanas.sew

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HARADS ➤ SWEDEN

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A NATION OF ICE FLOWS AND FROZEN WASTELANDS, quiet forests and reindeer herders, the Northern Lights and cosy cottages, Sweden boasts countless natural beauties. Add to this an outstanding foodie scene with a huge variety of dining options and it’s not hard to see why millions of tourists visit Sweden annually, especially around Midsummer, which is the most important celebration of the year for many Swedes. If you head in the same direction long enough in Sweden, you’ll almost certainly hit an archipelago. You’ll find them off the country’s north, south, east and west coasts. They’re centres of Swedish cultural heritage and immense natural beauty, offering a laid-back lifestyle and numerous nature activities. There are roughly 24,000 islands in the Stockholm archipelago alone, about 150 of which are inhabited. Many Swedes have summer homes on these islands. And now there’s one more, albeit man-made. Positioned on Luleå River and situated downstream from the

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bridges of the village of Bodträskfors opposite Harads in Lapland – in a prime location to experience the Northern Lights - Arctic Bath is a Swedish island like no other. The brainchild of the team behind Sweden’s now famous Treehotel, Arctic Bath is a floating six-room hotel and spa that freezes into the river ice in the winter and floats on top of the water in the summer. The design of Arctic Bath is inspired by the timber floating era, reminiscent of how felled trees were transported down the river for processing. The open centre of Arctic Bath has been designed for ice bathing and experiencing the Northern Lights or star-filled skies. A dip in the open-air cold bath is consistent with the Arctic tradition of a coldwater plunge combined with a sauna. Larger, split-level rooms on land feature a spiral staircase and softlit living area. Rooms on the river are smaller but boast north-facing, sloping roof windows – ideal for seeing the Northern Lights. Private decks provide access for swimming in the river during the summer months. ➤ www.arcticbath.se

T R E M E Z Z I N A ➤ I TA LY

GRAND HOTEL TREM EZ ZO

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LAKE COMO HAS BEEN SEDUCING VISITORS since Roman times and before. For much of the 18th and 19th centuries, European royals and the Lombardian aristocrats of northern Italy decamped to lavish lakeside villas for their summer holidays. It is with this spirit of refinement and luxury that Grand Hotel Tremezzo opened its doors more than a century ago. While the property’s glamorous Belle Époque roots assure a style and level of discernment that is enchanting, it is its impressive array of facilities executed to the highest standards, complete with impeccable service, that propel Grand Hotel Tremezzo to worldclass luxury hospitality prominence. Situated half-way up Como in Tremezzina, arguably the sunniest spot on the lake, the hotel’s waterfront position assures jaw dropping views from almost every angle and most guest rooms. There is hardly a more convenient spot on the lake to take full advantage of its numerous gems. Boat tours set off a stone’s throw from the hotel entrance and the public passenger ferry is a few hundred metres away. Villa Carlotta is but a few minutes’ walk from the hotel. At night, Bellagio’s twinkling lights, dancing against the water, are directly across from Grand Hotel Tremezzo for its guests to enjoy. Art nouveau accents are sprinkled throughout the hotel. Decadent, inlaid marble and exquisite multi-wood parquet floors are offset by vibrant upholstery and ornate, palace-like detailing. Grand spaces and sprawling terraces boasting endless lake views are punctuated by countless nooks in which to rendezvous or lounge more privately. It is not easy to blend vintage palatial elegance with mystery, romance and contemporary 21st century nods, yet Grand Hotel Tremezzo achieves this with panache. As if multiple swimming pools, a Turkish bath, Mediterranean-

themed steam room and a sauna were not enough, award-winning T-Spa boasts an indoor infinity pool with a wall of floor-to-ceiling windows opening onto a terrace bedecked with loungers afforded unobstructed views of Lake Como and the Alps beyond. Wellequipped fitness rooms also look onto the lake’s azure waters. If it were not for the absolute splendour that is Lake Como and its gorgeous villas, charming towns and villages, you might be tempted to never leave Grand Hotel Tremezzo. But if you do, hop aboard one of the hotel’s two private launches and enjoy Lake Como’s many charms from the water. Either way, whether from the palatial surrounds of its regal interiors or the wooden deck of a classic Italian speedboat, Grand Hotel Tremezzo is everything a discerning traveller could ever wish for in a Como hotel.

➤ www.grandhoteltremezzo.com

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THE BLUE L AG O O N R E T R E AT HOTEL

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LOCATED IN THE HEART of an 800-year-old moss-covered lava flow on the Reykjanes Peninsula, Iceland’s unique man-made geothermal spa - Blue Lagoon - is famous the world over and routinely billed as one of earth’s health-giving wonders. Just a 30-minute drive from Reykjavik in the island’s southwest, politicians, royalty and pop stars alike have swum in its clear blue mineral-rich waters, all of them basking in its unique composition of silica, algae and minerals. But Blue Lagoon is also one the country’s most crowded attractions, with one million visitors descending upon its geothermal waters last year alone. So, when Blue Lagoon opened its very own five-star boutique hotel, it transformed the complex into the perfect destination for a wellness break. A 62 all-suite luxury hotel set within the Blue Lagoon complex, the retreat was a hospitality game-changer for both the worldfamous spa attraction and the country. Complete with deep, freestanding tubs overlooking the surrounding volcanic landscape and furnished in tasteful Scandinavian style, all suites offer floor-to-ceiling windows enabling travellers to best enjoy in the destination’s unique setting. Suites on the hotel’s lower level have private terraces facing the lava fields and surrounding waters. Many also have direct access to the geothermal waters via private terraces. Upper level suites have private balconies and benefit from dramatic, sweeping vistas of the moss-covered lava fields. Unsurprisingly, wellness is a big component of the onsite spa, which offers a range of deluxe amenities including a steam room, in-water massages and a cold well, plus a full-service restaurant serving sushi and fresh-pressed juices. Spa guests staying at the retreat can also take part in a Blue Lagoon Ritual, whereby guests travel through a series of interconnected rooms, covering their bodies with healing silica, algae and minerals as they go. And if all the healing and pampering is a little bit too much for you, beyond the lagoon, complimentary yoga classes are available, as are guided hikes and bespoke tours to see the Northern Lights.

➤ www.bluelagoon.com/retreat

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V O L C A N O E S N A T I O N A L P A R K â&#x17E;¤ R WA N D A

T H E O N E & O N LY G O R I L L A’ S N E S T

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THERE CAN’T BE MANY HOTELS on the planet which offer guests an audience with mountain gorillas. Yet One&Only Gorilla’s Nest does just that. Known primarily for its luxury beach resorts, One&Only is actively evolving its brand with the introduction of nature resorts, two of which are in Rwanda. Located near the village of Kingi and set within the enchanting mists that surround the foothills of the Virunga volcano range, this grass-thatched traditionally styled Rwandan lodge guarantees an hour-long encounter with one of the eight local families of mountain gorillas in their natural habitat. Guests are also able to explore the Virunga conservation area, which consists of eight major volcanoes, most of which are dormant yet known far and wide for their endangered residents. Virunga conservation area ranges from Northwestern Rwanda covering Volcanoes national park, southwestern Uganda covering

Mgahinga gorilla national park and eastern Congo covering part of Virunga national park. Whilst this region is well known for its endangered mountain gorillas as well as its golden monkeys, there are many other authentic experiences that nature lovers and adventure tourists can enjoy while visiting the Virunga Mountains. These range from forest walks and volcano hiking to trekking, birding and visiting Dian Fossey’s original scientific base, Karisoke, founded in 1967 to study endangered mountain gorillas. After your gorilla encounter, guests at One&Only Gorilla’s Nest are able to refresh in simple, en-suite, rustically-furnished lodgings, take a long hot shower, feast on farm-to-table cuisine served in the lodge’s restaurant and relax in an onsite spa which draws on traditional African elements to provide a range of unique therapies. ➤ www.oneandonlyresorts.com

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MARRAKESH ➤ MOROCCO

THE OBEROI MARRAKECH

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SET AMIDST 28 ACRES of beautifully landscaped gardens, fragrant olive and orange groves with spectacular views of the pink-hued Atlas Mountains, few Marrakesh resorts can compete with the new upscale Oberoi, which eventually opened at the end of last year having been more than a decade in planning and construction. While Oberoi decided to open in Morocco at the turn of the millennium, it wasn’t until 2007 that the right opportunity arose via a partnership with an ambitious property developer hell-bent on building the best and most spacious hotel in Marrakesh. Construction began in 2012, under Casablanca-based architect Patrick Collier and included the creation of a 787-foot-long grand canal which runs through the middle of the property’s grounds. Unveiled to the world in December 2019, The Oberoi Marrakech is home to 84 super-luxurious rooms, suites and villas, 76 of which have large private pools and private gardens.

The sprawling property features three restaurants showcasing a range of international and local culinary specialities, crowned by showpiece, fireplace-lit Siniman – a classic Moroccan restaurant lined with ruby velvet banquettes underneath an elaborate ceiling. Meanwhile, the hotel’s regal bar and expansive terrace overlook the property’s extensive gardens and the Atlas Mountains beyond. In fact, there is literally nowhere in this oneof-a-kind property that doesn’t present incredible views. The Oberoi also boasts the city’s only resident Ayurvedic doctor. In an age when the ancient five-thousand-year-old holistic Indian system of Ayurvedic medicine is fast becoming as important as the food that passes the lips of discerning travellers, the Oberoi Marrakech is a new purist hospitality monument to time-honoured tradition, refinement, 21st century trends and first-class service. ➤ www.oberoihotels.com

C H I E F ’ S I S L A N D ➤ B O T S WA N A

MOMBO CAMP

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DESIGNED TO TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE of its incredible location and offering unparalleled luxury in the thick of the African wilderness, Mombo Camp and Little Mombo (next door) together offer a dozen super deluxe tents on the northern tip of Chief’s Island, within the Okavango Delta’s 45,000-hectare Moremi Game Reserve. Chief’s Island is so named because at 70 kilometres long it is the largest isle within the delta, was once the sole hunting ground of the local chief and is quite possibly home to the richest concentration of wildlife in Botswana. Consequently, the plains surrounding the camp are teeming all year round, making Mombo one of the most lusted-after safari destinations in the world for more than three decades. The camp’s design aesthetic is distinctly vintage throughout (think antique brass, Chesterfields, clubby chairs, embroidered cushions and a tonal colour palette), combined with top-end luxuries including crisp Belgian bedding and handmade Mervyn Gers ceramics. A regularly changing menu offers everything from nourishing buddha bowls, pastas and curries to blow-out burgers with truffle fries, all of which is served wherever and whenever guests wish. Home-cooked breakfasts, brunch, late lunches, afternoon tea on your private terrace while watching zebras meander by or dining under the stars are all possible at Mombo, where nothing is too much trouble for the camp’s gracious staff, many of whom have been attending to guests for many years. In between game drives, guests can partake of a private yoga class, relax in the library, swim in the infinity pool, have a massage in the small onsite spa or workout in the gym which boasts views of giraffe and other wildlife gently grazing on the plains. There’s no wi-fi or television at Mombo, but who needs either when one is surrounded by the best live wildlife show on the planet?! ➤ www.wilderness-safaris.com

ISSUE 30 ➤ JUNE – AUGUST 2020

W I N DHOE K ➤ NA M I BI A

O M A A N DA

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MEANING RHINOCEROS IN OSHIWAMBO, Omaanda was the fourth property in the Zannier Hotels collection, a Belgium-based hospitality group that specialises in small, boutique properties with a pared-down yet sophisticated design aesthetic. Inspired by the Ovambo tribe, Omaanda takes its name from its location in the heart of the 9,000-hectare private Zannier game reserve, located in savannah near the Namibian capital of Windhoek. The reserve is managed by N/a’an ku sê, one of the country’s premier conservation organisations, which strives to sustain the preservation of natural spaces - a conservation mission that aligns with the values of the Zannier Reserve, which is home to a rich sanctuary of flora and fauna as well as wildlife. Like the lodge’s name, everything about the property flows organically from the sights, sounds and culture of this wild corner of Namibia. And thanks to their traditional Ovambo architecture of rounded, natural clay walls topped with hand-finished thatched roofs, the camp’s hut-like buildings appear to rise out of the dusty plains and look right at home in their surroundings. Inside the lodge’s ten deluxe guest lodgings, long-time Zannier

Hotels’ collaborator, Géraldine Dohogne, approached the decor with a natural respect for the region’s ancestral architectural techniques. The result deftly combines Dohegne’s signature stripped-back approach to luxury with one-of-a-kind antique pieces sourced from Namibia and neighbouring countries. From large, private terraces, guests enjoy views stretching towards the mountains in the distance. While in the mornings, guests often rise to find curious baboons lounging on their polished concrete decks. Banded mongoose, pangolins and caracal are often spotted alongside zebras, giraffes and hyenas during daily game drives. Though elephants and rhinoceroses do not roam freely through the reserve, at its center is a hospital for injured or abandoned rhinoceroses and elephants, funded by the JoliePitt Foundation, the main aim of which is to raise awareness and educate the planet on the need to support and preserve the wild world. At the hospital, guests can get up close and personal with animals and gain a deeper appreciation for those that champion the massive conservation efforts that have helped rehabilitate the country’s wildlife, which has flourished since protective programs which were put in place in the mid-1990s. ➤ www.zannierhotels.com/omaanda

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SÃO TOMÉ AND PRÍNCIPE 42

ISSUE 30 ➤ JUNE – AUGUST 2020

S U N DY PRAIA

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AS IT RECOVERS FROM A DARK HISTORY and its native wildlife thrives, sustainable tourism is transforming the twin West African islands of São Tomé and Príncipe, which together form one of the world’s smallest nations. Quite honestly, it is something of a miracle that these two stunning equatorial islands, which lie 210 kilometres off the coast of West Africa, have remained under the tourist radar for quite so long. Part of the reason that these former Portuguese colonies were overlooked is that they lacked the quality of properties to attract all but the most adventurous traveller. This was until some ten years ago, when tech billionaire Mark Shuttleworth visited Príncipe, the smaller and quieter of the two islands but still a riot of dense jungle and volcanic rock. Shuttleworth fell in love with the place and its people, bought the island and embarked upon a dynamic investment programme in tandem with an enthusiastic president. The result is a harnessing of sustainable tourism to reinvigorate Príncipe’s ailing economy, provide employment and protect the island’s fragile ecosystem. The island’s dark history of slavery was completely flipped. Plantations that once exploited Angolans and Cape Verdeans were transformed into hotels, organic farms and small-scale co-operatives. Fashioned by French architect Didier Lefort and located on a secluded Príncipe bay, handsome Sundy Praia lodge consists of 15 seriously smart and spacious tented villas, beautifully designed and elegantly furnished. Each boasts a mammoth stone bath standing in a windowed alcove, a huge bed offering stunning vistas of the beach and sea through floor-to-ceiling windows and a private pool on a sprawling timber wooden deck. Toiletries, spa products and even mini-bar snacks are made using organic and sustainable local ingredients. Everything is cocooned using indigenous plants, soaring bamboos and massive trees populated by monkeys and 28 bird species found nowhere else on earth. The oldest of three oceanic volcanic islands in the Gulf of Guinea, the whole of Príncipe was declared a UNESCO biosphere in 2012 since it’s an area of great interest for the conservation of global biological diversity. If you are craving a Galapagoslike adventure in Africa, a visit to Sundy Praia on Príncipe will certainly not disappoint. ➤ www.sundyprincipe.com

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NO SY A N K AO ➤ M A DAGA S CA R

M I AVA N A

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OFF THE SOUTHEAST COAST OF AFRICA, pretty much everything about isolated Madagascar is special. Five per cent of all known animal and plant species on the planet are to be found here, on the world’s fourth-largest island, but getting to it all is quite literally a mission, not least since Madagascar’s roads are dreadful. For those who relish an adventure however, Madagascar is a one-ofa-kind adventure and an utterly unique wildlife destination, where the incredible diversity of landscapes and abundance of endemic animals, flora and fauna far outweigh the lack of creature comforts. Situated on the private island of Nosy Ankao off the country’s northeastern shore (Madagascar has 5,000km of coastline), since the unveiling of Miavana, travellers and wannabe explorers have been able to recover from their energetic daytime adventures in super luxe surroundings. Fringed by white sand beaches and sprawling coral reefs, Miavana quite literally feels like a haven of luxury at the end of the earth and is

ISSUE 30 ➤ JUNE – AUGUST 2020

undoubtedly one of the most exclusive beach resorts in Africa. Set within the Loky Manambato Protected Area, which is essentially a marine park of pristine coral reefs, guests can snorkel, dive, fish and even whale-watch literally just off-shore. Two helicopters also ferry guests to nearby islands and Miavana’s staff will even set up private sleep-outs under the stars. Guests are accommodated in 14 individual solar-powered villas which range in size from one to three bedrooms. Mid-century-style furniture fills their rooms and flowing soft turquoise curtains line their floor-to-ceiling windows. All villas face the sea on the western side of the island and provide occupants with total privacy. Needless to say, all come with shimmering private pools and round-the-clock butler service, making staying at Miavana the ultimate destination for the modern adventurer and quite possibly the most exclusive castaway escape on the continent.

➤ www.timeandtideafrica.com/camp/miavana

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SEYCHELLE S

FOUR SEASONS RESORT S E Y C H E L L E S AT DESROCHES ISL AND

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THERE ARE PLENTY OF GORGEOUS ISLAND NATIONS in the waters off the coast of Africa, where jet-setters can hang out on white sand beaches or hide away in overwater bungalows dangling above pictureperfect archipelagos. For many however, the Seychelles in the Indian Ocean is the continent’s crown jewel. More than 100 beautifully pristine islands, countless far-flung resorts and (more recently) a variety of private island escapes make the Seychelles a perennial favourite amongst the well-heeled, celebs and royals seeking to unwind in private, unadulterated luxury. Located on the outer edge of the Seychelles and a 35-minute flight southwest of the largest island of Mahé, it’s safe to say that if you land on Desroches you are not stopping-off en route to somewhere else. Sparsely populated 933-acre Desroches is a low-lying stretch of coral, awash with lush vegetation and enveloped by spectacular dive sites and exceptional fishing options. The island’s animal sanctuary cares for over a hundred Aldabra tortoises and a Creole village provides an insight into the Seychellois way of life. Intimate Four Seasons Resort Seychelles at Desroches

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Island (formerly called Desroches Island) is the well-known American hospitality brand’s second property in the country, and has been designed to strike just the right balance between the energy of larger sister property Four Seasons Resort Seychelles on Mahé and a secluded private-island retreat, the latter of which are rapidly gaining popularity amongst discerning travellers. Guests are accommodated in just forty breezy beach suites and bungalows, all of which boast private plunge pools, indoor-outdoor bathrooms, and a casual-cool island aesthetic. Families or small groups can settle into one of eleven swishy private villas, liberally spaced along the island’s nine miles of sugary beaches - each of which feature three, four or five bedrooms, a full kitchen and a dedicated butler. Four Seasons does butlers very well indeed, and, perhaps just coincidentally, British Airways recommenced its service between London and the Seychellen capital of Victoria at the same time as the opening of Four Seasons Resort Seychelles at Desroches Island back in March. Perhaps because it was the most exciting new resort to emerge in a destination already awash with lavish hotels? ➤ www.fourseasons.com

S A B I S A N D GA M E R E S E RV E ➤ S OU T H A F R ICA

A N D B E YON D TENGILE RIVER LODGE

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SITUATED IN A SERENE SETTING on a bend of the Sand River, in private 65,000-hectare Sabi Sands Game Reserve which flanks the south western section of South Africa’s famed Kruger National Park, andBeyond Tengile River Lodge was sustainably built with local materials in an extremely light footprint so as to minimise its impact on the incredible surroundings and provide guests with a tranquil experience. Sand camouflages the lodge’s rooftops and water treatment systems recycle wastewater for irrigation. “Tengile” translated means tranquil and this lies at the very heart of the lodge’s design. Just nine, spacious air-conditioned suites offer expansive space for living, relaxing and sleeping. Raised above ground level, they give the impression that they’re floating over the riverbed and provide exceptional views from the dappled shade of a cool riparian forest - a setting that’s unique to Sabi Sands. Complete with sunken lounges, elegant bedrooms, sprawling en-suite bathrooms (featuring both indoor and outdoor rain-showers) and decks with private lap pools, all suites open into the forest creating private spaces for guests to sit or dine al fresco. In the main lodge areas, bespoke pieces of artwork and furniture, together with contemporary African fabrics and finishes, celebrate the talent of local designers and artists. Meanwhile, the floorplan ensures a seamless indoor-outdoor flow, the viewing deck being a focal point. Discerning travellers will know that Sabi Sands is renowned for its prolific Big Five sightings and the incredible wildlife is obviously the main focus of every stay, with twice daily game drives and interpretive bush walks an inherent part of the safari experience. Outside of these activities, the lodge features a gym and in-suite massages are arranged. Gourmet food paired with delectable South African wines combined with intimate and attentive service courtesy of warm and friendly staff make andBeyond Tengile River Lodge a unique and special safari paradise. ➤ www.andbeyond.com

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

K WA Z U L U - N ATA L ➤ S O U T H A F R I C A

A N D B E YO N D P HIN DA H O M EST E A D

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STRETCHING FOR 800 KILOMETRES along the east coast of South Africa, the country’s KwaZuluNatal province is divided into eight, distinct geographical destinations centred around the capital, Pietermaritzburg and its largest city, Durban. The three coastal regions and their beaches bordering the Indian Ocean comprise the thin lowland strip of the South Coast, dotted with resort towns stretching towards the Eastern Cape; the North Coast – also known as the Dolphin Coast – between the Umdloti and Tugela Rivers, and the more remote Elephant Coast with its internationally important wetland parks. Formed in 1991 and located in the latter – between Mkuze Game Reserve and the Greater St. Lucia Wetland Park – Phinda Private Game Reserve boasts a rich diversity of ecosystems. Situated in an area of KwaZulu-Natal that is home to many protected parks and reserves which are among the best in Africa, Phinda Reserve offers unique opportunities to see the Big Five as well as many rare and endangered species. Tucked into the edge of a dappled forest, sole-use safari lodge

AndBeyond Phinda Homestead re-opened on 28,555-hectare Phinda Private Game Reserve last year after a completely rebuild, following a devastating fire in December 2016. Inspired by the lodge’s natural surroundings and local Zulu culture, interiors are furnished in clean lines and earthy tones, highlighted by burnt clay, aloe and red. Traditional Nguni hides, intricate basketwork and colourful craft pieces – all sourced directly from local communities - are featured throughout the property, paying homage to the area’s proud and vibrant heritage and the reserve’s past as a cattle and pineapple farm. An interactive kitchen brings the lodge’s private chef into the center of the guest experience. Homegrown herbs enhance the hearty fare prepared for guests. Inviting guest areas, open to the cooling breezes, blend perfectly into private bedrooms and spacious bathrooms, where oversized deep-soaking tubs look out onto beautiful landscape and the surrounding bush. The overall result is an elegant yet warm contemporary home-awayfrom-home and the perfect base from which to explore the thousands of surrounding hectares. ➤ www.andbeyond.com

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IA S A

OU BAK ROTEH ➤ CAMBODIA

S H I N TA M A N I W I L D

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CAMBODIA IS A VIBRANT LAND of incredible sights, scents, flavours and experiences. American architect Bill Bensley is renowned for his hospitality creativity, novel ideas and conceptualising unique hotels for a range of clients spanning the globe. Put these two together and you get Shinta Mani Wild: a super exclusive luxury tented camp, built along a river valley in the Cambodian rainforest, within a private nature reserve of more than 300 hectares. Not the easiest place to reach but well worth the effort, the adventure begins with a road trip from Phnom Penh (three hours) or Sihanoukville (two-and-half hours) followed by 20 minutes in a 4x4 traversing rugged terrain. Once at the perimeter of the resort, adventurous guests are encouraged to take to the skies and whizz into Shinta Mani Wild via a 350-metre zipline over the forest canopy and Tmor Rung River, gliding in to touch down at the “Landing Zone Bar” (which juts out over a waterfall) where an expertly-prepared cocktail awaits. Those who prefer a more conventional arrival can of

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course opt for a jeep. If this all sounds a little Indiana Jones that’s because it is, but Shinta Mani Wild has been executed with a tasteful eccentricity that only Bensley knows how. Imagine Jackie Kennedy on a jungle safari and you’ll be on the same wavelength as Bensley. Skilfully combining first class eco-friendly design with some serious conservation goals, guests are accommodated in one of 15 lavish tents, spaced sporadically along a long stretch of the river. Each feels like it is the only tent for miles around. The hefty room rates cover pretty much everything and include all food and drink, a bevy of camouflage-clad butlers at your beck and call, organic treatments in a thatched onsite spa, a multitude of experiences and guided tours and transfers over land from Phnom Penh or Sihanoukville airport. If you’ve ever had a jungle fantasy or fancied yourself as Tarzan for a weekend, Shinta Mani Wild is the place to live it out in wacky yet refined and tasteful luxury. ➤ www.bensleycollection.com/shintamani-wild

SH A NGH A I ➤ C H I NA 52

ISSUE 30 ➤ JUNE – AUGUST 2020

A M A N YA N G Y U N

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WHILE ALL AMAN RESORTS beguile with their discreet luxury, exquisite attention to detail, otherworldly service, special privileges and breathtaking locations, Amanyangyun is undoubtedly one of the hotel group’s most incredible properties to date. A magical, fairytale-like hospitality journey into Chinese history, bordering Qizhong Forest Park in the Minhang district of greater Shanghai and surrounded by ancient camphor trees, Amanyangyun lies in Maqiao Town, approximately an hour away from the city centre. Comprising just 37 keys, at the heart of Amanyangyun are 13 ancient villas which were originally situated 700 kilometres away in Fuzhou, Jiangzi Province. Since the construction of a dam would have submerged the precious Ming and Qing dynasty villas forever, local entrepreneur Ma Dadong set about preserving them, a feat which involved moving and storing them, piece by piece. 15 years later they

were lovingly reassembled at Amanyangyun and Australian architect Kerry Hill designed minimalist interiors to suit, employing plenty of wood, stone and bamboo. Hill also drew inspiration from the design of the ancient villas – with their courtyards, wooden lattice work and black stone – to create the rest of the resort, carefully blending typical, minimal Aman styling into the mix. At the same time as the ancient villas were saved from destruction, Dadong also arranged to transport 10,000 similarly threatened ancient trees – many more than 1,000 years old – to a site just outside Shanghai. The majority survived the process and a forest of them was planted at Amanyangyun. To say that the overall effect is impressive is something of an understatement. What Aman and Kerry Hill created together at Amanyangyun is nothing short of a hospitality masterpiece and a property which will only further improve with age.

➤ www.aman.com/resorts/amanyangyun

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H AV E L O C K I S L A N D ➤ A N D A M A N S

TA J E X O T I C A R E S O R T & S PA , A N D A M A N S

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BOASTING BREATHTAKINGLY BEAUTIFUL COASTLINES, lush forests and deserted beaches, all just a 2-hour flight from Chennai, the all season Andamans in the Bay of Bengal are the perfect place to either ramble or stretch out on the sand and recover from the mental effects of a pandemic. Best known for their palm-lined sandy beaches, twisting mangroves and tropical rainforests, the coral reefs surrounding this stunning Indian archipelago provide incredible diving opportunities and support a huge variety of marine life including sharks and manta rays. Whilst indigenous Andaman islanders inhabit the more remote islands like Barren and Narcondam, rendering them inaccessible to travellers unless by special permission, government-run ferries and faster private catamarans run from Port Blair to the major islands and upmarket resorts arrange private transfers via speedboat. Repeatedly voted one of the world’s best beaches, you haven’t really experienced the Andamans unless you’ve visited picture-

postcard perfect Radhanagar Beach on Havelock Island. Here, vast expanses of champagne-coloured sand are gently caressed by white foam necklaces and emerald blue waves. Needless to say, experiencing a sunrise or sunset on Radhanagar is an utter delight. Luxurious Taj Exotica Resort was the first luxury property to arrive on Radhanagar, which is one the world’s few remaining unspoilt beaches. But, inspired by indigenous Jawara huts, the hotel has been built on stilts so as to minimise its impact on the natural landscape. Occupying a 46-acre site, the hotel’s 75 individual villas start at 144sqm, are decorated in contemporary yet classic Taj style and each boasts a private plunge pool. The hotel spa floats on a lake. Jungle trekking and turtle-spotting expeditions are among the range of standard activities on offer. And an on-site fine dining restaurant fusing southeast Asian and Bengali flavours, together with an eatery specialising in coastal curries, keeps gourmands satiated. ➤ www.taj.tajhotels.com

BALI ➤ INDONESIA

COMO UMA CANGGU

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A 40-MINUTE WALK ALONG THE BEACH from Seminyak on Bali’s south-west coast, Canggu’s streets are not teeming with tourists, the village market sells produce at local prices and the beaches are not packed. A selection of cool cafés serving healthy food sit side-by-side with funky beach clubs, hip bars and yoga studios. Canggu may not be sleepy, but it’s a damn sight quieter than much of the rest of Bali and its locals are friendly, engaging and happy to chat about the surf. Canggu essentially consists of three parallel villages, each with their own beach areas: Berawa, Batu and Echo. All are bordered by a busy road to the north, Jalan Raya Canggu, which is about five kilometres inland. Fronting Echo Beach, uber cool COMO Uma Canggu was the first international five-star brand to land on Canggu’s onyx-black volcanic sands. Skilfully designed to take advantage of some of Bali’s most coveted surf breaks, the resort also beautifully reflects Canggu’s relaxed coastal lifestyle, complete with a fabulous beach club fashioned by Milan-based architect and interior designer Paola

Navone, which forms the hub of the resort. A partnership with luxury Australian surfing experts Tropicsurf ensures that both novice and veteran surfers are well catered for at this essentially surfingfocused property. The minimalist interiors of the resort’s 119 rooms were designed by Japanese-born designer Koichiro Ikebuchi. Think Japanese screens, chic courtyards and outdoor showers. Some have direct access to the resort’s 115-metre lagoon pool. Penthouses boast sweeping oceanic curves, private rooftop pools and incredible sea vistas. A luxe, eight treatment room Como Shambhala Spa offers Asian-inspired therapies. Meanwhile an impressive fitness centre offers twice-daily yoga and Pilates, plus classes ranging from hatha and fast-paced rocket yoga through to yogalates. After a hard day’s surf, guests head to the beach club for freshly barbequed fare served to a backdrop of live musicians and DJs together with some of the most spectacular sunset views on the island. ➤ www.comohotels.com/en/umacanggu

MALDIVES

BAG LIO NI RESORT MALDIVES

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ESTABLISHED IN THE MID 1970S, when Roberto Polito – working with his wife Lisa – opened his first hospitality establishment in Tuscany, Baglioni is a family-owned business which prides itself on taking guests on a journey through Italian style, culture and tradition in every one of its exclusive hotels, which are mainly housed within period buildings located in the historical centres of Europe’s major cities of art. Unveiled last year, Baglioni Resort Maldives was a departure for the upscale hotel brand in that it ushered in a less formal and more subtle vision of Italian hospitality elegance. This fresh direction was courtesy of the family’s younger generation, namely Guido Polito, the group’s CEO, who is guiding the company towards innovative new international projects which will inject a youthfulness into the Baglioni brand. Just a 40-minute hop by seaplane from the Maldivian capital of Malé and set on the bone-white sands of secluded, private Maagau island in Dhaalu atoll, Baglioni’s first tropical resort features 96 garden, beach and over-water villas, including a two-storey three-bedroom presidential villa. All are ocean-facing. Some snake out towards the enticing Indian Ocean. All are decked out in the finest linens and decorated with supreme Italian taste and style thanks to close attention to detail, the careful selection of materials and a skilful balance between tradition and modernity. Four restaurants – including an al fresco Japanese eatery serving up fresh sushi under the stars – cater to guests’ every gastronomic need. A dive centre with resident marine biologist offers child-friendly scuba experiences in addition to the vast range of traditional Maldivian aquatic offerings. Guests can burn off cocktail calories in the yoga pavilion or a beach gym set on the sands. And for those for whom no vacation is complete without a little pampering, a deluxe spa offers Ayurvedic and Thai therapies utilising indigenous Maldivian ingredients. Awash with natural beauty, oozing luxury and finished with Italian flair, Baglioni’s paradise isle provides the brand’s exclusive international clientele with unforgettable stays seamlessly blending relaxation, sport and gourmet dining.

➤ www.baglionihotels.com

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

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ANAMBAS ISLAN DS ➤ IN DON E SIA

B AWA H RESERVE

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LOCATED 150 NAUTICAL MILES NORTHEAST of Singapore, in Indonesia’s remote Anambas Archipelago, Bawah Reserve is a cluster of six private and pristine paradise islands enveloped by lush tropical greenery and turquoise waters. Surrounded by azure blue lagoons and coral reefs, the pristine and previously uninhabited marine conservation area in which the exclusive resort sits, is now home to 35 lavish eco-villas which cater to discerning guests with a penchant for outdoor adventures, seasoned travellers with an appetite for indulgence and paradise seekers looking for relaxation. Visitors to Bawah Reserve arrive via Singapore, travelling north on a one-hour ferry ride to the island of Batam, before hopping on the resort’s private seaplane for a 1¼-hour flight across the South China Sea. Designed by Singaporean architect Sim Boon Yang to refreshingly feel neither slick like the Seychelles nor manicured like the Maldives, each villa has been lovingly hand-built using bamboo, recycled teak, santigi wood and driftwood and is either hidden among the islands’ jungle foliage, strung along a white-sand beach or set on stilts over-the-water. Roofs are thatched with extra-large palm leaves from a neighbouring island and tables and chairs are fashioned from flotsam. Muslin-draped beds and huge copper baths further

accentuate the overall smart/castaway feel of the place, while huge daybeds on the verandas of the overwater villas positively encourage relaxation. The result is a resort that feels earthy and organic yet cool, decadent and cosy. Spa treatments are included in the nightly rate and are dispensed in a series of thatched domes situated on a hillside close-by. Bawah Reserve is the ideal place to quietly chillax on a daybed with a fat tome, unwind with a long massage in the hands of an expert therapist, sip a hand-crafted dragon-fruit cocktail in the bar, or loll around on the sand with a book from the library. Essentially, Bawah Reserve is perfect for disconnecting and switching-off from the troublesome outside world. ➤ www.bawahisland.com

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N A E B IB R A C

P O I N T L O N S DA L E ➤ AU S T R A L I A

L O N R E T R E AT & S P A

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MARKED BY A TRADITIONAL LIGHTHOUSE erected more than a century ago, Point Lonsdale is situated on a rocky outcrop at the south-eastern end of the Bellarine Peninsula in the Australian state of Victoria, 100 kilometres south-west of Melbourne. Boasting everything from rugged coastal bike trails to wineries and five-star lodgings, Melbourne’s western peninsula has long stood in the shadow of its eastern cousin, the Mornington. But in recent years, savvy travellers have begun to realise that the Bellarine coastal region has just as much to offer. At the end of a long winding driveway, hidden away on a hill by the ocean and set on over 200 acres of rural and conservation land, adult-only Lon Retreat & Spa was once an old bed and breakfast until the sixth generation of the Gemes family decided to give the property a dramatic overhaul. The original main building may remain, but the interior spaces have been dramatically revamped. The sympathetic design of this eco-friendly property tastefully brings the great outdoors in courtesy of floor-to-ceiling windows, wood-burning stoves and smooth concrete which gently contrasts

with timber ceilings, hand-crafted furniture and a colour palette that reflects the surrounding farmland. Influenced by the Bellarine, the artwork was produced by a variety of local artists. Wallpapers are inspired by the Wathawurung Aborigines who originally inhabited the area. And the gin in the honesty bar is locally produced. Lon’s seven contemporary suites are liberally scattered throughout the sandstone retreat, each with its own unique, earthy style inspired by its surroundings, named after a type of cloud and decorated with colours taken from the fields, sea and sky. Some have private courtyard gardens while others have two bedrooms. All have a lounge, fireplace, heated flooring, kitchenette, king-sized bed, rain shower, mineral water-fed stone bath, a Weber barbecue and incredible vistas of the peninsula’s rolling dunes. The landscape pretty much persuades you to slow right down, take a load off and pause for thought, which is precisely what Lon’s owners encourage. Indeed, the environment is perfect for this purpose. Once you’ve stocked the fridge, got the fire going and put on some soothing music, you may never want to leave Lon.

➤ www.lonretreat.com.au

B O R A B O R A ➤ F R E N C H P O LY N E S I A

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CONRAD BORA BORA NUI

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HALFWAY BETWEEN AUSTRALIA and the USA and fifty minutes by ‘plane northwest of Tahiti in the heart of the French Polynesian South Pacific archipelago, Bora Bora rises from the sea like a veritable jewel, seemingly protected by one of the planet’s most stunning lagoons. It’s a tiny speck of a volcanic island with a total landmass of just over 30 square kilometres. Being surrounded by beautiful coral reefs and islets quite literally make Bora Bora a dream destination. Famous for its crystal waters in fifty shades of blue and all-luxury accommodation much of which is over-water bungalows, Bora Bora is popular honeymooners and just about anyone who enjoys being pampered on an island and always a stone’s throw from tropical waters. Naturally, vacationing in such surroundings doesn’t come cheap, making Bora Bora the playground of the rich and famous or a one-off treat for newlyweds. Presiding over the longest stretch of white-sand beach of any Bora Bora hotel, on the southwest end of Motu To’opua, the Conrad was previously a Hilton before an extensive multi-million-dollar

refurb. As a Hilton it was the first resort to feature Bora Bora’s now iconic over-water suites. As a Conrad, the property boasts 29 garden and beach villas plus 86 overwater bungalows, including the island’s only double-storey Presidential Suites which comprise two master bedrooms, a pool, hot tub and sauna, as well as the obligatory butler service. Approaching Conrad Bora Bora Nui on one of the resort’s motorboats, across impossibly blue waters, the resort genuinely looks like a screensaver which has come to life and it soon becomes apparent that guests’ every whim is amply catered for. A fleet of luxe golf carts whisk residents from their lodgings to a variety of restaurants and bars, sprawling hilltop spa, 18-hole mini golf course, huge tiered oceanfront pool and the sea, where complimentary stand-up paddleboards, kayaks and snorkel gear await. As if this wasn’t enough to occupy guests, Conrad’s “Stay Inspired” program offers a multitude of destination-focused activities and excursions, which on Bora Bora includes snorkelling with manta rays.

➤ www.conradhotels.com

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N A E B IB R A C

NA S S AU ➤ BA H A M A S

RO S E WO O D BAHA MAR

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FEELING MORE LIKE THE MEDITERRANEAN than Southern California, it’s hard to believe that the rambling 102-acre Terranea Resort, on the Palos Verdes Peninsula overlooking Catalina Island, is only 30 minutes from the melting pot of bold creatives and eclectic world cultures that is Los Angeles. Conveniently positioned between LAX and Long Beach airports offering easy highway access to Hollywood and Disneyland, Terranea inherited the site of the old Marineland oceanarium, designed in the 1950s by architect William Pereira, who was responsible in part for LAX’s iconic Theme Building. In the 1980s, after Marineland went bust, the site lay dormant for decades, which was perhaps a blessing in disguise since this preserved its original coral trees. More than two decades after Marineland shipped off its whales and closed its gates, the culmination of 10 years of planning and costing some half a billion Dollars to build, the 582-room resort opened in 2009 atop the same ocean bluffs in Rancho Palos Verdes. So large it can host five weddings at the same time and with one of the largest ballrooms in Los Angeles County, Terranea occupies one of the most spectacular settings of any hotel in the States. Just last year, the resort unveiled a USD 40 million restoration courtesy of Chicago-based design firm BAMO. Retaining the hotel’s classic Spanish Colonial style, the redesign embraced the casual elegance of coastal California. Today, guests face the daily option of choosing between the sybaritic life or one of adventure. You can sip cocktails in front of the Lobby Bar’s fireplace, out on its heated terrace or around the private fire pit outside your own bungalow or villa. Guests can also lounge at any of four saltwater-treated swimming pools - two of which are adults-only - and frolic down a 140-foot waterslide in another. More than 350 of Terranea’s guest rooms are located in the main hotel. With full kitchens, 50 three-bedroom ocean view casitas and 32 villas are nicely private. The twenty bungalows in front of the spa and closest to the sea cliffs have their own little secluded vibe. Crowning it all, a massive deluxe spa boasts 25 treatment rooms for endless pampering. ➤ www.terranea.com

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A SO M U E T R H IC A

SALAR DE UYUNI ➤ BOLIVIA 67

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K AC H I LODG E

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SITUATED AT THE CONFLUENCE OF Bolivia, Chile and Argentina in the Daniel Campos Province of southwest Bolivia and lying at a nausea-inducing altitude of 3,656 metres above sea level, Salar de Uyuni is the world’s largest salt flat and one of the most extraordinary sights in all of South America. Stretching for more than 12,000 square kilometres, the salar was originally part of a prehistoric salt lake, Lago Minchín, which once covered most of southwest Bolivia. When it evaporated long ago, it left behind a few seasonal puddles plus several salt pans, one of which is Salar de Uyuni. Here, a thick crust of salt extends to the horizon, blanketed by quilted, polygonal salt patterns rising from the ground which make for an awe-inspiring spectacle. The salar’s famed mirror effect occurs during the wet season, after heavy rains, between January and March. The first luxury lodge of its kind on the Bolivian Altiplano and unveiled last year at the foot of Tunupa Volcano, Kachi Lodge is a unique property resembling a space station made up of six geodesic domes designed for optimal stargazing, each with a centrally positioned bed to provide the best possible views through transparent panels. Offering the creature comforts of a typical hotel room yet in the middle of an otherworldly landscape, each dome contains everything a discerning traveller needs to make the most of staying in this remarkable part of the world. Top notch fare is provided by celebrated restaurant Gustu in La Paz helmed by Latin America’s best female chef Kamilla Seidler (so even the most discerning of gourmands will be happy) and Kachi Lodge’s inclusive rates include soft drinks, wines, spirits, local transfers and a range of activities. Feasting on delicious Bolivian food and wines, hiking to the lower lip of a volcano crater, exploring an island covered in giant cacti, visiting archaeological sites and biking on the salt flat make staying at Kachi Lodge an inimitable all-round experience and so much more than mere gazing at the beautiful star-studded sky.

➤ www.kachilodge.com

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A NO M R E T R H IC A

LOS ANGELES ➤ USA

TERRANEA RESORT

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T U LU M ➤ M EX IC O

H A B I TA S

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TULUM’S SPECTACULAR COASTLINE, 1,000-year old ruins, new age vibe, cobalt waters and idyllic beaches have long made this trendy yoga town 90 minutes south of Cancun one of Mexico’s hottest travel destinations. Formerly a sleepy beach resort, even non-sun worshippers find it hard to resist Tulum’s white sand beaches, balmy breezes and swaying palms. Coupled with a smattering of world-class nightspots including beach parties, happening bars and jumping jungle-shrouded restaurants, it’s not hard to see why Tulum has become a perennial favourite, especially amongst upwardly mobile millennials. Built in collaboration with local carpenters and artisans, sustainability is key at environmentally aware Habitas, a boutique lifestyle hotel with a hippie-chic vibe, cocooned in Tulum’s beachfront jungle. Offering everything and more to satisfy savvy millennial travellers, booking one of Habitas’ tentlike lodgings is to commit to a full-on eco experience. Arriving guests are invited to take pinches of ground copal-tree resin (prized by the Mayans for its spiritual properties) and sprinkle it on glowing embers while mindfully releasing their worries. Habitas’ 32 roughly-hewn but stylish guest rooms are built on elevated platforms so as to not disrupt the area and surrounding jungle. Each is constructed from indigenous materials including a natural palapa roof. Inside, furniture is handmade from local hardwood and married with raffia lamps, vintage dressers, animal hide stools, mismatched rugs and local textiles. Bathrooms feature private outdoor rain showers and bespoke allnatural toiletries. Sliding glass doors on semi-enclosed terraces open up to vistas of the Caribbean Sea crashing over slate grey rocks. In the resort’s clubhouse (the only fixed structure onsite), using local ingredients, chef Federico Cappi creates delectable fare such as wood-fired octopus with purple-sweet-potato purée and cheesecake made with goat’s curd and served with guavas and pistachios. Visit Habitas to vacation sustainably and revitalise your mind, body and soul. ➤ www.habitastulum.com

C A N Y O N P O I N T, U TA H ➤ U S A

CAMP SARIKA BY AMANGIRI

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SITTING WITHIN THE UNITED STATES’ Four Corners region at the Utah-Arizona border, Canyon Point is a dream destination for outdoor enthusiasts. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, this Western oasis offers some of the nation’s best hiking together with spectacular natural wonders and incredible vistas that stretch as far as the eye can see. Located in the middle of the desert, far from the bump and grind of big-city life, Camp Sarika is a serene encampment encircled by starkly beautiful landscape punctuated by deep canyons and vermillion rock formations. 10 tented pavilions with individual private plunge pools make up this new luxury encampment, surrounded by 600 hectares of raw wilderness in the heart of the desert, close to much-loved Amangiri resort. With its own central pavilion and restaurant, two spa suites, a large main swimming pool and Jacuzzi all set within unparalleled proximity to nature, Camp Sarika has been created for escapism, adventure, solitude and privacy. Surrounded by five national parks, each offering unique and diverse scenery, not to mention numerous national monuments and the Navajo Nation Reservation, Camp Sarika provides a deluxe back-to-nature wilderness experience for discerning guests who enjoy the utmost comfort alongside mesmerising, otherworldly landscapes and intriguing remnants of Native American culture at every turn. ➤ www.aman.com/camp-sarika

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T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

WIN a four-night stay

at the new so/ paseo del prado la habana

ISSUE 30 ➤ JUNE – AUGUST 2020

P R IZ E D R AW

W I N A F OU R - N I GH T S TAY IN A SO COSY MALECÓN R O O M AT S O / PA S E O DE L P R A D O, I NC LU DI NG D A I LY B R E A K FA S T S PLUS ON E DI N N ER F OR T WO AT T H E H O T E L’ S TOP FLOOR HI SO BAR A N D R E S TAU R A N T, COMPLETE WITH W E L C OM E C O C KTA I L S.

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A MASTERPIECE OF LUXURY and style, SO/ Paseo del Prado boasts 250 guestrooms on nine floors including eight suites, located at the intersection of Paseo del Prado and Malecón, just one minute on foot from the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Old Havana. The décor of every guest room is infused with the spirit of one of three dance styles - classical ballet, salsa or son cubano – balanced with spectacular floor-to-ceiling views of the sea, the neighbouring Malecón, Paseo del Prado and the hotel’s sweeping terraces. Organic and wholesome breakfast fare is served at idyllic Cosecha Restaurant. Buzzing lobby bar MIXO attracts stylish Habaneros and international guests alike. The hotel’s SO/ SPA, SO/ FIT gym and infinity pool provide ample opportunities for rejuvenation, wellbeing and lounging. And in the evenings, HI-SO bar and restaurant, set on the hotel’s magnificent rooftop, delivers delectable cuisine and hand-crafted cocktails with a dash of glamour, to a backdrop of DJ beats and breathtaking views.

➤ www.sofitel.accor.com

TO ENTER Email your contact details to ➤ win@theculturedtraveller.com The draw will take place after 1 September 2020 and the winner will be notified via email. This prize can be used any time before 31 August 2021 subject to availability when booking. Blackout dates may apply. This prize is not transferable to another person. The Cultured Traveller will not share your details with third parties. Multiple entries will be disqualified and excluded from the draw. All entrants will be added to The Cultured Traveller’s mailing list.

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The Presidential Suite Raffles Europejski Warsaw, Poland

ISSUE 30 ➤ JUNE – AUGUST 2020

AS MUCH OF THE WOR L D IS ST I L L I N S OM E STAT E OF L O C K D OW N OR AT T H E V ERY L EA ST C A R E F U L LY E M E R GI N G F ROM H I BER NAT ION, THE CULTURED T R AV E L L E R V I S I T S A SEL E CT ION OF V ERY SPECIAL HOTEL SUITES, A N Y OF W H ICH WOU L D BE PERFECT FOR A D E C A D E N T, P O S T-

suite envy PA N D E M I C S O J O U R N

OF EUROPEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; S MOST FABULOUS SUITES

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THE PRESIDENTIAL SUITE

➤ R A F F L E S E U R O P E J S K I WA R S AW

RIGINALLY OPENED IN 1857 as Hotel Europejski and occupying a beautiful Enrico Marconi-designed neorenaissance palace, a huge collection of Polish modern art now takes centre stage at this 160-year-old Warsaw hospitality landmark, which re-opened its glamorous doors in the summer of 2018 as a Raffles property, after a painstaking four-year refurb.

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Back in the day, this grand edifice on Warsaw’s Royal Route was the favoured hangout of the city’s elite, attracting artists and luminaries from around the world for, amongst other things, piano recitals in its vaulted-ceilinged Pompejanska Room. The same spectacular room is now a central part of Raffles Europejski Warsaw’s 270-square metre Presidential Suite, the hotel’s most opulent accommodation. Entering the suite – via a single, unobtrusive door set behind the suite’s high-backed private bar – is a WOW moment if ever

SUITE ENVY

furniture liberally positioned throughout. Off one side of the main living space is a dining area dominated by a huge marble table and leather armchairs, above which hangs a modern interpretation of a chandelier, skilfully juxtaposing modern lighting with the vintage crystal chandeliers in the adjacent space. Directly opposite and off the other side of the main room is a beautiful dark wood desk, large enough for even the most egotistical of CEOs, behind which tall bookcases are filled with hardbacks, vintage vases and objets d’art.

there was one. An unabashedly flash and OTT space, one is instantly transported to a decadent world of 21st century luxury in a historical setting brimming with beautiful, modern design at every turn. The overall effect is nothing short of spectacular. Soaring ceilings dominated by a pair of mammoth crystal chandeliers share centre stage in the former Pompejanska Room with a fully restored 19th century Budynowicz concert grand piano, which pays homage to the recitals that took place in that very same place many decades earlier. Yet, despite its size, the piano doesn’t look at all large at one end of the enormous room. At the other end, a chic bar and high stools are poised for a mixologist to entertain guests, enclosed by high glass-fronted cabinets containing a multitude of hand-cut crystal of all shapes and sizes, together with antique decanters, vases and jugs. A pair of vast, curved sofas imitate the gently circular contours of the room, accessorised with contemporary armchairs, occasional tables and countless other pieces of custom-made

OFF THE MAIN ROOM, AN INK BLUE VELVET two-seater couch sits at the centre of a dark wood-lined study, above which a stunning abstract piece by Symon Szewczyk hangs. Not dissimilar to a bijou gentlemen’s club, this room provides a more intimate space to curl up with a book or catch the day’s news on one of the suite’s four screens. In this part of the suite, a warm palette of muted pastels and gold accents prevails, which is in stark contrast to the bright whites of the main entertaining spaces. From the study, a corridor leads to the main bathroom and master bedroom, both of which are luxurious but modest compared to the rest of the suite’s vast proportions. Completing the suite’s collection of interconnected rooms and entertaining spaces, are a glitzy, dimly lit guest powder room, and a sleek black kitchen. Further bedrooms can be added via a connected lobby to enlarge the suite to two or three bedrooms. From PLN 20,000 per night ➤ www.raffles.com/warsaw

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THE INFINITY SUITE

➤ THE LANGHAM, LONDON

HE APPROACH TO THE LANGHAM, along London’s Regent Street, gives little indication of the splendour that awaits once inside the hotel’s imposing lobby. Soaring pillars, acres of polished marble, a huge fireplace, exquisitely scented air, lush flower arrangements and regal décor collectively exude style and grace, wholly befitting of a hotel which celebrated its one hundred and fiftieth anniversary in 2015, but giving away very little of the building’s interesting, historic past. Dating back to 1814, when architect John Nash bought the plot and built a mansion upon it, it was not until some fifty years later that the property was turned into The Langham. Since then, the hotel has hosted everyone from writers Oscar Wilde, Mark Twain and George Orwell, to countless pop stars, world leaders and royalty. Indeed, The Langham’s Infinity Suite, one of London’s largest, is undoubtedly more palace than hotel. Entered via a long, dramatic entrance hall and lobby, the 300 square metre Infinity Suite boats two bedrooms en suite, his and hers dressing rooms (his with its own butler’s entrance), kitchen

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with CCTV system to keep a watchful eye on the outside world, a chic guest cloakroom and a divine, spa-like master bathroom, the latter featuring an OTT overflow infinity tub at its centre, after which perhaps the suite was named. The suite’s crowning glory is a huge, high-ceilinged, semi-circular living and dining room, featuring floor-toceiling windows offering views of Regent Street. Refurbished in 2017 and predominantly decorated in an understated and contemporary palette of cream carpets and dark wood, golden fabrics, carefully placed books and objets d’art, a plethora of artwork and copious amounts of fresh flowers provide points of interest throughout, while designer chandeliers add glamour. A suite of such a huge size, anywhere in the world, inevitably hangs on a precipice of impersonality and tackiness. Yet, the Infinity Suite is quite the opposite, skilfully marrying cozy touches and practicality throughout – evoking the comfort of a grand, private residence – with just the right amount of opulence and glamour. From GBP 15,000 per night ➤ www.london.langhamhotels.co.uk

WELCOME TO LAKESIDE LUXURY THE FONTENAY is a reflection of modern Hamburg - an homage to Germanyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest waterfront city. The new luxury hotel is located

on the tranquil banks of Alster Lake in the heart of the city. The fascinating, sculpture-like architecture mirrors the fluid lines of the lake and lush parkland, creating the perfect balance between nature and urbanity. Designed as an ultimate urban escape, THE FONTENAY epitomizes pure lakeside luxury while offering a contemporary and cosmopolitan way of life.

Fontenay 10 | D-20354 Hamburg | Germany Tel: +49 (0)40 605 6 605-0 | info@thefontenay.com | www.thefontenay.com

THE PENTHOUSE SUITE

➤ KING GEORGE, ATHENS

ORMERLY A ROYAL PALACE and prime ministerial residence, and perfectly located in the epicentre of the Greek capital presiding over Syntagma and Parliament in the middle of the city’s constitutional square, is famed King George hotel. The King George gained fame from the 1950s for its superstar clientele, hosting a pantheon of stage and screen stars including Grace Kelly, Marilyn Monroe, Brigitte Bardot and Frank Sinatra. But it’s the sense of serenity and unruffled order – once through its massive metal main doors – which are unique to a hotel in such a central location. Even when the King George is running at 100 per cent occupancy, you’d never know it, such is the level of calm and Athenian class that permeates its majestic walls. In stark contrast to its slightly more brash hospitality sibling up the road, Grande Bretagne, the King George has a unique, upscale, boutique-like atmosphere, skillfully combined with a tasteful, contemporary edge. Doormen smile warmly, greeting guests like family. Front desk staff are friendly, attentive and engaged. Porters move luggage around the building inconspicuously. Telephone operators are patient, mannered and speak perfect English.

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While it is clear from the get-go that any visit to the King George will be an exceptional experience, to set down one’s cases in the hotel’s spectacular 350-square metre penthouse suite is almost certainly to stay in the Greek capital’s most extravagant rooftop pad. With direct lift access and filling the entire ninth floor of the hotel, as one would expect of hotel accommodation in which Madonna and Beyoncé have slumbered (amongst others), King George’s penthouse suite is quite literally show-stopping. Yet, its capacious, classical layout, regal furnishings and acres of marble flooring give way to a plethora of deluxe creature comforts which take the edge off the enormous floor-plan and embrace its lucky inhabitants like a warm, oversized cashmere blanket, providing supreme and decadent comfort infused with a delicate sense of style.

SUITE ENVY

Whilst outwardly showy, proper and stately, behind the gilt, silk and satin exterior lies an apartment-like relaxation zone begging guests to unpack, scatter their possessions and make themselves at home. The suite’s sizeable lounge, with seating for a dozen guests, boasts an open fireplace at its center and is dotted with original 19th century antiques and paintings. Off the lounge, a large dining room, with a huge circular glass table at its center, can comfortably seat eight. Two tranquil bedrooms, each with a fireplace and en-suites are well separated from each other. There are no feeble interconnecting doors or thin walls in this suite! In every aspect it’s a beautifully proportioned, well laid out, two-bedroom full-service penthouse pad, complete with a service entrance for discreet room-service deliveries and a butler’s kitchen.

The suite’s pièce de résistance is, without doubt, its sprawling outdoor terrace, large private swimming pool and ten-person jacuzzi, all on eye-level with the Parthenon. Amply sized to comfortably host a cocktail soirée for sixty, a seated al fresco dinner for thirty or a happening pool-party, its majesty and glamour cannot be properly illustrated by any photograph. Seeing is genuinely believing. To be able to luxuriate in a private swimming pool, eye-to-eye with one of the world’s most iconic monuments, makes the Penthouse Suite at King George one of the most unique hotel rooms in the world. From EUR 7,000 per night ➤ www.kinggeorgeathens.com

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4 A RM AN D BL ATON SU ITE

➤ HOTEL AMIGO, BRUSSELS

RCHITECTURAL EXCELLENCE, artistic flair and a wealth of cultural treasures conspire to make Brussels one of the most appealing cities in Europe for discerning travellers, and there’s no better base from which to explore it than Rocco Forte’s Hotel Amigo. Housed within a magnificent building on the site of an old prison, Hotel Amigo was born in 1957. Instantly recognisable as the most prestigious hotel in all of Brussels, smartly uniformed bellboys attended to the lords and ladies of Europe who would emerge from limousines in front of the hotel. Situated on its namesake Rue de l’Amigo in the heart of Brussels’ historic quarter, a stone’s throw from La Grande-

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Place and its astonishing architectural riches, Hotel Amigo is part of the fabric of the city. When Rocco Forte Hotels acquired the property in 2000, little had changed since its 1957 opening. A major overhaul ensued under the vigilant eye of the group’s design doyenne Olga Polizzi, sister of Sir Rocco, who spent months sifting through the antique shops that line the nearby Place du Grand Sablon for vintage furnishings and artwork with which to fill the 154 rooms and 19 suites. Chief among them is the Armand Blaton Suite, a gracious 240-square metre pied-à-terre with one sumptuous bedroom, a spacious living room, separate dining room and kitchen, and an outdoor terrace that’s the envy of Brussels. Upon entering the suite, one feels immediately at home, or rather, at the home of some wealthy and stylish friends.

SUITE ENVY

The décor and furnishings are refined and timeless, the epitome of understated elegance. There’s no ostentation or pretence; the space is calm, demure and decidedly European. Named in honour of the hotel’s founder, the suite evokes some of Armand Blaton’s own interests, with an art collection featuring several pieces from the family’s private collection, including original prints by Belgian sketch artist Goosens and landscape artist Jean Francois Roffiaen. In the living room, other works by British painter John Piper line the wall above one of two plush dove-grey sofas, while a scattering of bright cushions and flowers add a splash of colour to the muted tones. A collection of hardback design and fashion tomes are dotted throughout the living room, ideal for leafing through in front of the open fireplace in the chic Mies van der Rohe Barcelona Chair. Light floods in through three sets of double doors leading to the flower-lined terrace, where heads of state, visiting royalty and EU bigwigs have all enjoyed al fresco breakfasts and latenight supers at the most exclusive dining table in town. A glass of champagne in the lingering twilight, gazing out over the gothic spire of the Town Hall, is the perfect way to end the day. When the weather is less fair, the 10-seat private dining room provides an intimate space for friends, family or colleagues to dine, but it could just as easily double as a boardroom for private

meetings. Columns of shelves are lined with jade coloured pottery and elegant purple glassware, and in the corner, a silver drinks tray is ready and waiting when the time comes to toast a special occasion. In the bedroom, a natural palette of light lemon yellows, earthy beiges and leafy greens complements the antique furnishings, which are bathed with light from the double doors leading outside to a smaller private terrace. A regal four-poster bed takes centre stage and next to it, a dressing table and two armchairs topped by cushions printed with famous works by René Magritte. A wide corridor with generous wardrobe space leads to the master bathroom, where the vanity unit is hewn from green Carrara marble. A classic Tin Tin print looks down on green mosaic tiles of the same marble and a deep bathtub. Amenities are by Forte Organics, the company’s paraben-free organic skincare line, and Rocco Forte-branded bathrobes and slippers are on hand to offer comfort after a long day walking around the city. On a hot summer’s day, when the streets of Brussels are brimming with tourists, returning to the sanctuary of this suite, with its vintage art, antique furniture and spectacular terrace, seems like the most appropriately Bruxelloise thing to do. After all, where else can you enjoy so many of Brussels’ cultural treasures in such perfectly private surroundings? From EUR 7,500 per night ➤ www.roccofortehotels.com

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DUOMO PRESIDENTIAL SUITE

➤ H O T E L S AV O Y, F L O R E N C E

OSITIONED IN THE HEART OF Italy’s cultural capital, Hotel Savoy deftly combines the personality of an Italian grande dame with the warmth and charm of a boutique property. An imposing, long and narrow 19th century rectangular building positioned in the heart of Firenze, Hotel Savoy has been welcoming travellers for more than a century and is renowned for being one of the finest places in the city to rest one’s head. Revelling in its unbeatable location, Hotel Savoy takes pride of place in the very middle of everything. The Duomo is mere seconds away and the

Ponte Vecchio but just a few minutes’ walk. The Uffizi is five minutes on foot. Unveiled in 2018 as part of a complete remodelling of the hotel to reduce the number of keys to 80 and create more than thirty suites, exquisite fabrics and plush soft furnishings are a hallmark of the Duomo Presidential Suite, which occupies its own wing on the fourth floor of the hotel. A sumptuous home-away-from-home, the suite’s many rooms lead off a central, large and airy dual-aspect lounge. Dominated by a massive, mirrored square coffee table laden with books, candelabra and other gorgeous items, and flooded with natural light thanks to the generous fenestration of the building’s façade, the room boasts show-stopping views of Brunelleschi’s iconic cupola, Giotto’s bell tower and the façade of Florence’s signature monument. Yet, despite the room’s size, the adaptable space is as well suited to a chic cocktail party as it is to a movie night. A separate dining room, guest cloakroom, spacious master bedroom, bath and walk-in closet, not to mention a second bedroom en-suite, complete the suite’s collection of rooms, making it a veritable super-luxe pied-à-terre in the center of the Italian Renaissance world and the perfect base from which to reacquaint yourself with Florence’s many charms after being cut off from culture during the virus crisis. From EUR 7,000 per night ➤ www.roccofortehotels.com

➤ THE PRESIDENTIAL SUITE PA R K H YAT T V I E N NA

NE OF THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS addresses in the Austrian capital, Park Hyatt Vienna occupies an imposing six-storey edifice, complete with a stately columned portico, which was designed by star architects of the time, Ernst von Gotthilf and Alexander Neumann, and erected between 1913 and 1915. From the outside and considering its slightly intimidating façade, one would imagine that staying at Park Hyatt Vienna – amidst the huge columns, fine marble, gleaming brass, wood panelling and alabaster ceilings – might be a stifling and staid experience. But one couldn’t be further from the truth for, once inside, sofas beg to be lounged on, cushions squeezed, chairs sat in and every handsome detail, exquisite nook and charming cranny longs to be discovered. The entire building feels like it

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SUITE ENVY

has been designed to be used, by people, rather than devised for looks alone with functionality and aesthetics coming second. Nowhere is this more evident that the hotel’s best suite. Situated on the high-ceilinged bel étage of Park Hyatt Vienna, the hotel’s Presidential Suite strikes just the right balance between tasteful opulence and inviting comfort. The suite’s oval salon is dominated by a massive Lobmeyr crystal chandelier, which was apparently increased from its original size to have greater impact. Whilst huge and OTT it really is a thing of beauty. An antique 1937 Bosenddorfer grand piano sits coolly to one side. A three-metre curved sofa echoes the shape of the room, facing a large hi-tech TV screen casually sitting on the floor in front of a curved bank of soaring windows and plush drapes. Beyond them, a balustraded balcony overlooks the city’s most fancy shopping street. In the dining room, a dreamy Casper Faassen painting enjoys pride of place in the middle of a huge wall, looking down on a silver leafed table equally equipped for eating and conferencing. Towering walnut bookcases laden with tasteful objets d’art fill one wall of an executive office, where a large L-shaped desk, inset with champagne-coloured stingray skin, is complemented by a deep-buttoned ivory leather armchair. While every space throughout the suite screams quality and oozes with exquisite detailing, standout are a spectacular wall of lapis in the master bathroom, a 3-metre mother-of-pearl encrusted mirror in the guest cloakroom, a mirrored bath tub fit for a pop diva and a custom-designed silvered four-poster canopy bed. Even the suite’s slick black kitchen is equipped with every convenience, complete with a separate entrance for clandestine room service deliveries, of which there will undoubtedly be many if you unpack your cases in such regal lodgings for a luxe, post-pandemic break. From EUR 6,000 per night ➤ www.vienna.park.hyatt.com

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NA M ED T H E WOR L D’ S NO.1 D J T W I C E , OAKENFOLD HAS SHAPED DA NC E M USIC A N D EDM C U LT U R E F OR MOR E T H A N FOUR DECADES. THE C U L T U R E D T R AV E L L E R C H AT S W I T H ON E OF T H E GLOBAL MUSIC SCENE’S LEADING FORCES

MINUTES WITH

paul oakenfold

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How did you land your first paid DJ gig? I was

DJing for a friend at a bar, when a club owner heard me play and offered me a paid show.

Becoming a resident DJ at a clubnight called Spectrum at Heaven in London, which attracted 2,000 clubbers on a Monday night.

A pivotal moment in your DJing career? Has it always been about dance music for you? I enjoy making people feel good

through dance music. Saying that, no, I worked for hip-hop labels before dance. Which musicians/bands inspired you as a teenager? T. Rex, U2, The Beatles

When I was asked to be the support act for U2 on their Zoo TV Tour in the early 90s. The favourite venue you have ever played? The Hollywood Bowl, which

I played twice, is an incredible venue. Also, the main stage at Coachella.

DJ-led sound known as Balearic Beat, worked perfectly at the time and is what made Ibiza so very special.

Do you most enjoy playing big arena gigs or really small shows? I really like

playing small clubs because I’m much closer to the crowd and can really feel the energy. Is there anyone you’d like to collaborate with? Billie Eilish, Dr. Dre, Lewis

Capaldi or J Balvin.

and Elvis. What was your breakthrough moment?

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In its heyday, what made Ibiza so special? The island’s collective, eclectic

Tell us about DJing at Stonehenge?

It was an incredibly special event

INTERVIEW

I’m really looking forward to generally getting out and travelling the world again in September 2018 in a supremely spiritual location and one of the world’s wonders. To be the first artist to play there meant a great deal to me. And playing the world’s highest DJ gig at Everest Base Camp? I had to train

really hard to do this show because I had never hiked or slept in a sleeping bag at that altitude before. It was minus 17 °C and we slept on the ground. What do you most enjoy about touring?

Traveling the world, meeting people, seeing, listening and learning. And, most importantly, sharing my music with people who simply love to dance.

What are you currently working on?

I’m scoring a new series for Showtime in the States, which is based on biohacking. And I’m finishing my new album which will come out very soon.

Your favourite hotel in the world and why? I don’t think you can beat The

Beverly Hills Hotel on Sunset Boulevard for comfort and style. What do you most enjoy about working on music for movies? Since I’m a big

fan of film, I love scoring movies and writing cues. Your label, Perfecto, celebrated its thirtieth anniversary last year. What is at its core? Perfecto has always been

about new talent and great music, whether it’s underground or commercial. Perfecto is now one of the longest lasting dance independents and has sold more than 10 million records worldwide.

Your favourite place to kick-back and relax? I love being at home, sitting by

Do you still have time to seek out and nurture new talent? I’m all about new

the pool.

talent and new artists. This is what keeps me going.

What inspires you to make new music?

Your most memorable holiday in recent years? I don’t take many vacations, but

My inspiration doesn’t come from a particular place. When I get ideas, I just try them out to see if they work.

the Turks and Caicos Islands, southeast of the Bahamas, was a wonderful place to chill-out and relax.

The first place you plan to visit once the coronavirus pandemic has passed?

I’m really looking forward to generally getting out and travelling the world again. But I would love to visit Buenos Aires. ➤ www.pauloakenfold.com

Above, left to right: The Beverly Hills Hotel; The Turks and Caicos islands; Oakenfold on Mount Everest. Left: Buenos Aires; Oakenfold DJing at Stonehenge

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I N T E GR AT E D I N PR I M A RY H EA LT HCA R E I N I N DI A F OR D E C A D E S , AY U RV E DA I S T O DAY TA K E N M O R E S E R I OU S LY I N T H E W E ST A S A N A LT ER NAT I V E M EDICI NA L SYST EM. T H E CU LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R R O U N D S - U P T H E B E S T PLACE S ON THE PLANET TO RE SET OUR BODIE S AND GLEAN THE MOST F ROM ON E OF T H E WOR L D’ S OL DE ST HOLISTIC HEALING SYSTEMS

the world’s best ayurvedic retreats Ayurveda Resort Sonnhof, Austria

FTEN REFERRED TO AS A sister science to yoga, having originated from India’s Vedic culture more than 3,000 years ago, Ayurveda is much more than a mere system of remedying illnesses. It’s a way of life, a way of being and, for some, a way of day-to-day living. First developed by the nation’s great sages, Ayurveda is

D E S T I N AT I O N NO SHOES REQUIRED

COMO Shambhala Retreat, Indonesia

an unequivocally holistic Indian tradition that reaches far beyond the realms of physical health, healing and the prevention of disease. Not least, it offers a body of wisdom designed to help us stay vibrant and healthy while better realising our full potential. The philosophy of Ayurveda is rooted in the idea that each of us is born with an individualised blueprint for optimum health. Think of it as your core constitution or a personal medical flipchart, of sorts. Ayurveda is a remarkably intimate

healing system and places the focus firmly on you as a unique individual. There are no routines, menus or “one size fits all” remedies in Ayurveda. In fact, it’s entirely the opposite. Ayurveda considers all the levels and influencing factors of an individual – including the spiritual, emotional, intellectual, behavioural, familial, social and environmental, as well as the physical – and heals from the root-cause of an illness rather than merely treating the symptoms. ➤

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O N E W O R L D AY U RV E D A B A L I , I N D O N E S I A A reasonably priced detox retreat, situated amongst lush rice fields in the hills of Ubud, Oneworld Ayurveda is dedicated to Ayurveda Panchakarma with a touch of added Balinese healing. Retreats are led by Ayurvedic physicians and designed to restore visitors to equilibrium. Programmes are meticulously curated and closely monitored by a team of experts and include 7, 14 and 28-day Panchakarma rituals tailored to detox, relieve stress and help those suffering from chronic insomnia and muscle and joint diseases. Panchakarma can also help to slow down the ageing process and rebalance mentally and emotionally. Days are filled with sunrise and sunset yoga, meditation, dosha-specific meals, hands-on massage therapies, deep detoxification techniques, herbal medicines and juices, cleansing baths, walks and periods of complete silence. Local Balinese cultural experiences are also available, including an indigenous fire cleansing ceremony and the chance to bathe in holy temple waters. ➤ www.oneworldayurveda.com

AY U RV E D A R E S ORT S ON N HOF T I ROL , AU ST RI A

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FEW PLACES OUTSIDE OF ASIA can deliver Ayurvedic therapies with the same degree of authenticity and effect as a resort in India. However, located on the high plateau of the picturesque Thiersee Valley in Austria, Ayurveda Resort Sonnhof most certainly can. What makes Sonnhof special, is that the resort has pioneered a distinctly European approach to healing, combining the ancient system of Ayurveda with the latest western medical research. At Sonnhof, an individual’s treatment plan is complemented by organic, locally sourced produce, to leave a guest feeling better connected to their core being as well as the surrounding world. Whether relaxing on the sun terrace or taking in the crisp Alpine air on a guided walking tour, Sonnhof’s stunning location and the intense beauty of its natural surroundings gently encourage guests on their personal journeys back to wellness, at the same time improving energy levels and inner strength. ➤ www.sonnhof-ayurveda.at

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NO SHOES REQUIRED

K R I PA L U MASSACHUSETTS, USA

ANAN DA U T TA R A K H A N D, I N DI A

WHILST ITS MAIN BUILDING may not be the prettiest, North America’s largest yoga retreat centre couldn’t be situated in a more stunning spot. And with Kripalu’s size comes a large and highly respected faculty of in-house and visiting teachers, plus superb year-round Ayurvedic services. The dean of Kripalu’s Ayurveda program has been teaching Ayurvedic tools for living for more than a decade and has advanced training courtesy of the Rishikesh College of Ayurvedic Medicine. A one-on-one consultation with Kripalu’s dean is the best way to kick-off a stay, which can be three or four nights, weeks or even months. Alongside Ayurvedic treatments, Kripalu boasts a host of wellness experts who lead yoga and fitness retreats, teach reiki and promote mindfulness. While nothing is compulsory, a typical day involves twice-daily yoga classes, a guided hike, experiential workshops and empowering life-coaching lectures. Food is natural, organic, wholesome and abundant and simple macrobiotic fare is offered for guests on a serious health kick. Breakfast is eaten in total silence and there are even dedicated quiet rooms for those who wish to eat all of their meals in peace. ➤ www.kripalu.org

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JUST 10 MILES FROM RISHIKESH, which was beloved by The Beatles in the 1960s and is known as the ‘yoga capital of the world’, world-class wellbeing retreat Ananda stands in a 100-acre estate surrounding a 19th century maharaja’s palace. Located in the foothills of the Himalayas and enveloped by mountains and feels removed from the world, Ananda’s setting is pristine and peaceful. Its elevated yoga pavilion overlooks the treetops. Further down, an outdoor swimming pool, extensive spa and golf course are surrounded by Sal forests and lush, sprawling grounds complete with preening peacocks in residence. Ananda skilfully integrates traditional Ayurveda, yoga and Vedanta with international wellness experiences, fitness and healthy organic cuisine to restore balance and harmonise energy. A bevvy of polite and gentle therapists expertly administer everything from head massages to reflexology sessions and Ayurvedic treatments. The best of Ananda›s packages is its Ayurvedic rejuvenation program, which is designed to restore the body’s vitality by eliminating toxins through Panchakarma treatments, and enhance the body’s immunity via a combination of Ayurvedic treatments, a body type-based diet and yoga. ➤ www.anandaspa.com

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COMO SHAMBHALA E S TAT E BALI, INDONESIA

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FOR MANY DISCERNING TRAVELLERS, upscale COMO Shambhala Estate is the best property in Bali and it’s not hard to see why. Designed with an exquisite eye for detail in a breezy but smart East-meetsWest style, this spa-resort veritably celebrates nature and is all about the incredible setting. Employing some of the world’s top practitioners of Chinese medicine, Western medicine and Ayurveda, guests can book a three or four-day Ayurvedic wellness retreat, during which an onsite Ayurvedic doctor will devise a personal holistic and all-natural treatment plan based on your prakruti (personal constitution). Expect detox treatments, bodywork, a tailored diet, plus lots of yoga and meditation, surrounded by overflowing infinity pools, gushing waterfalls and trickling rivers seemingly everywhere. Indonesian-styled bedrooms adorned with incredible beds and the finest linens are further encouragement to embrace the hip barefoot vibe. ➤ www.comohotels.com

VA N A DEHRADUN, INDIA SET IN THE COOL, VERDANT and hilly north of India, when Vana Malsi Estate began welcoming guests in 2014 it raised the bar for the spa junky travellers of the world looking for an authentic experience in a natural setting without compromising luxury and pampering. There is something about choosing India for a retreat which always feels like returning to the spiritual mothership. Vana has made this experience even more special by redefining the benchmark for luxury wellness. At its core, Vana is a place of physical and spiritual healing. But whilst Ayurvedic treatments and cuisine are at the heart of the Vana experience, Tibetan medicine (also known as Sowa-Rigpa) is promoted alongside. In fact, the Tibetan Healing Center at Vana is one of only a handful that exist outside of Tibet, and at Vana it is common for guests to subscribe to a combination of both Ayurvedic and Tibetan therapies. Either way, if you’re looking for a luxury wellness retreat in India, Vana should be your first choice. ➤ www.vana.co.in

D ESI G N ED F O R TH OS E W H O S E T TH E TR E N D Ope n-m i nd e d s pa ce s w i t h a c h o i c e o f p o o l v i l l a s, s u n de c k s a n d b e a c h - c h i c v i b e s.

NIKKI BEACH RESORT & SPA DUBAI

PEARL JUMEIRA

NIKKIBEACH.COM

NIKKIBEACHHOTELDUBAI

+971 4 376 6000

AY U RV E D A PA R K S C H L Ö S S C H E N T R A B E N -T R A R B A C H , G E R M A N Y

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OPENED IN THE EARLY 1990S by German businessman Wolfgang Preuss and his wife Brigitte, and located in a stunning 11-acre park surrounded by vineyards and the gently flowing Mosel River, Ayurveda Parkschlösschen is synonymous with five-star Ayurvedic detoxing in Europe. The interior of Ayurveda Parkschlösschen was designed in accordance with Vastu - the traditional Hindu approach to architecture, with an emphasis on sustainability and the natural world. Indeed, this unique health resort’s architecture

and beautiful location, coupled with soul-nurturing vegetarian food, various forms of therapy, treatments, exercises, yoga and meditation based on the principles of Ayurvedic healing, are designed to cleanse and regenerate from within. Ayurveda Parkschlösschen›s two- or four-night Take A Break programmes offer the perfect introduction to Ayurveda and the resort’s central European location is easy to reach. ➤ www.ayurveda-parkschloesschen.de

D E VA A Y A - A Y U R V E D A & NAT U R E C U R E C E N T R E GOA, INDIA WHILE GOA USED TO HAVE A REPUTATION for being a party destination, things have seriously changed in the past decade. Nowadays, Goa perpetuates an identity that appreciates art, culture and holistic living, and a number of high-end resort hotels cater to discerning international travellers. Situated in Divar Island, ten kilometres from Goa’s capital of Panaji, coconut palms swinging to the rhythm of the breeze set the scene at Devaaya and four in-house Ayurvedic doctors plus around thirty trained therapists preside over the sixty guest rooms. Naturopathy is a way of life at this deluxe Ayurvedic retreat that brings together the essential elements of Panchakarma with yoga, meditation, music, lifestyle correction, diet planning and medicinal treatments. That the entire resort has been designed based on the science of Vaastu Shastra adds to the overall harmony and calmness of Devaaya. ➤ www.devaaya.com

FOUR SEASONS R E S ORT M A L DI V E S AT L A N DA A G I R A AVA R U B A A AT O L L , M A L D I V E S

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THERE ARE MANY MORE REASONS to make the trek to the Maldives than diving, surfing and over-water bungalows! Four Seasons’ sophisticated, tropical Landaa Giraavaru resort offers the science of life in addition to the intense levels of comfort and luxury discerning travellers have to come to expect from the top end hospitality brand. Situated in the remote yet absolutely stunning Baa Atoll – a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve – a variety of all-inclusive health-based one, two and three-week Ayurvedic programs are offered, all of which focus on diet, exercise, balance and sleep, and include daily treatments and ample private consultations. The resort’s Ayurvedic physicians work with a resident yogi and an onsite team of therapists and chefs to personally meet guests exacting needs. There are also stand-alone Ayurvedic treatments for those who wish to get a feel for the medicinal system without being fully immersed. ➤ www.fourseasons.com

S O M AT H E E R A M AY U RV E D I C H E A LT H R E S O RT KERALA, INDIA NINE KILOMETRES SOUTH OF famous Kovalam beach, nestled on a palm tree-filled hillock, is the world’s first dedicated Ayurvedic resort. Spread across an expanse of lush greenery, Somatheeram is very much a getaway destination for those in search of an Ayurvedic haven away from the cacophony of metropolitan life. Founded in 1985 and welcoming guests for more than three decades, simple and colourful Somatheeram was one of the first to offer Ayurvedic vacations and meditation breaks, not to mention foster and grow a culture of healing and restorative holidays amongst international travellers. A combination of the resort’s peaceful location by the sea, positivity provided by authentic Ayurvedic therapies and a healthy and wholesome diet provide guests with everything they need to unwind and rejuvenate, with spectacular vistas more than making-up for the resort’s rustic feel. ➤ www.somatheeram.org

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MELBOURNE

➤AUSTRALIA

australia’s cultural capital A V ER I TA BL E M E LT I NG P O T OF COBBLED LANES, HIDDEN BA R S, A RT GA L L ERI E S, FOODI E H E AV E N S A N D V I B R A N T N I G H T S P O T S , D AW N G I B S O N E X P L O R E S A U S T R A L I A’ S M O S T C U LT U R A L LY S O P H I S T I C AT E D C I T Y

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D E S T I N AT I O N T R AV E L L E R LOW D OW N

FTEN REFERRED TO AS THE most European metropolis in the antipodes, it is doing Melbourne a disservice to consider it merely as ‘Australia’s second city’. It may be less well known and marginally less populous than Sydney, but the capital of the state of Victoria is a unique and delightfully modern world city, complete with a genuinely kind, welcoming heart. Elegant and steeped in Victorian charm yet brash, edgy and bristling with feisty attitude, Melbourne combines all the elements that appeal to a seasoned traveller: intriguing streetscapes mixing contemporary design with handsome 19th century terraces and glorious art deco landmarks; a worldrenowned foodie scene punctuated by a plethora of incredibly good restaurants; an established bar culture producing delectable hand-crafted cocktails; world-class art galleries and superb museums; tree-lined streets filled with chic boutiques and vintage shops.; lush parks and sprawling gardens and, last but by no means least, some of the best coffee shops on the planet. It is not hard to see why Melbourne was named the most liveable city in the world in 2017. Founded in 1835 on the north bank of the Yarra River, taking advantage of the natural bay of Port Phillip, Melbourne ➤

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Royal Exhibition Building

is made for exploration on foot, as the well-spaced streets are designed in an easily navigable grid. However, if you’re short of time, getting around by public transport or taxis is relatively stress-free. Melbourne has the largest urban tram network in the world and tram rides within the city centre are free. For travel by train, tram and bus, buy a re-usable ‘myki’ smartcard at main train stations or online. ➤ www.ptv.vic.gov.au/tickets/myki Contemporary Melbourne deftly achieves a harmonious balance between a glorious past and a thriving present. Just decades after it was founded, the fledgling community on Australia’s south-eastern coast became one of the richest cities in the world thanks to the 1850s gold rush. As hundreds of thousands of prospectors flocked to its shores, glorious Victorian architecture sprung up, much of which is still happily evident today. Following the federation of Australia in 1901, Melbourne served as the new nation’s temporary seat of government until 1927. As a result of its pivotal role in national history, Melbourne is home to some of Australia’s oldest and most significant cultural landmarks, including the UNESCO World Heritage protected Royal Exhibition building and the city’s famous cricket ground.

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FOR A FIRST-TIME VISITOR, it’s best to visualise Melbourne as a network of neighbourhoods radiating out from the Yarra River, each with its own style and ambience. Each is worth setting aside half a day to investigate and absorb its unique sights, sounds, tastes and scents. But a meteorological word of warning: while Melbourne enjoys a temperate climate of warm summers and cool winters, the weather is notoriously fickle, so a bright sunny morning can easily turn into a raging thunderstorm in the space of an hour. The song Four Seasons in One Day by Crowded House sums up Melbourne’s climate perfectly! The natural place to start is the city business district, where al fresco cafés and semi-hidden bars jostle for space along cobbled laneways with antique emporiums, jewellery shops and boutiques showcasing Australian and international designers. Of course, there are department stores and the global chains you find everywhere, but it is the original and quirky which make Melbourne’s CBD such a fascinating place to explore. Begin in Flinders Lane, the hub of Melbourne’s rag trade in the mid-20th century. Head towards Russell Street and turn right into Hosier Lane, known for its colourful graffiti and street art. After snapping some Instagram-worthy shots,

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stroll back to Flinders and on to Centre Place, one of Melbourne’s most famous and photographed laneways. Always a hive of activity, pause here for a latté before walking to Collins Street, Melbourne’s luxury shopping enclave, where Prada, Gucci, Dior and Hermès reside. The east of Collins is known as the ‘Paris end’ due to its grand architecture, while the west of the street is referred to as the ‘New York end’, a nod to its modern buildings and financial institutions. Don’t miss The Block Arcade, between Collins and Elizabeth Streets, built in the 1890s and inspired by Milan’s Galleria Vittoria. ➤ www.theblock.com.au A glorious tribute to the delights of shopping, the arcade features intricate mosaic floors, a glass canopy and carved stone finishes, as well as the traditional Hopetoun Tea Rooms, where the window groans with sinfully tempting cakes. ➤ www.hopetountearooms.com.au From Elizabeth Street, turn right and walk past the junction with Little Collins, until you reach Royal Arcade on the right. Opened in 1870, this is the oldest surviving arcade in ➤

Left: Hopetoun Tea Rooms; Above centre: Royal Arcade; Above right: The Block Arcade

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Left: Attica; Below left: Chinatown; Below right: Little Italy

Australia, featuring a light-filled interior topped with arched windows similar to famed Burlington Arcade in London. Close by, Degraves Street and Hardware Lane are also worth visiting for their bars, cafés and shops. Wherever you wander, you are bound to build up an appetite. Happily, Melbourne is one of the best places in the world to satisfy it. For decades, the city has been known for its wonderfully diverse multicultural foodie scene, the legacy of waves of immigration since its Gold Rush days. Make your way to Chinatown, at the eastern end of Little Bourke Street, to be spoilt for choice in terms of contemporary and traditional Chinese cuisine, including scrummy street food. Don’t leave the area without sampling some steamed dumplings, with a piping hot centre of pork or bean curd. For coffee, head to Little Italy – a section of Lygon Street, in the inner-city suburb of Carlton – to sip a cappuccino in the place where Melbourne’s café culture began. The city’s restaurant scene is fiercely innovative and staffed by some superbly talented, visionary chefs, all making excellent use of abundant local produce. Gourmands in the know are sure to have heard of Attica. Chef Ben Shewry’s clever use of native ingredients and his ability to deliver a dining experience many rave about for weeks, have

resulted in the restaurant being namechecked as one of the world’s top 50. ➤ www.attica.com.au But you don’t need to spend a fortune to eat good food in Melbourne, and the city’s culinary diversity makes it possible to sample a wonderful variety of cuisines without blowing your holiday budget. ➤

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Melbourne Arts Precinct

Fitzroy

Southbank

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SIMILARLY, MELBOURNE’S BAR AND NIGHTLIFE scene is brilliantly varied, eclectic and ever-changing. The city is particularly known for its late-night wine and cocktail bars and its music – Nick Cave, The Avalanches, Jet, The Temper Trap, Missy Higgins and pop icon Kylie Minogue all hail from Melbourne. Rooftop bars are an enduring favourite when the weather is fair, and a multitude can be found scattered throughout the inner-city. One neighbourhood popular with foodies, night owls and fashionistas alike is bohemian Fitzroy, known for its vibrant mix of hip bars, art galleries, cafés and home-grown designers. Many of the boutiques and cafés were hipster haunts (before hipster was a thing) and the upbeat vibes in the air are positively contagious. Gorgeous twenty-somethings, donning corduroys and flower-patterned shirts, canoodle over falafel wraps seated on distressed benches painted bright orange. Meanwhile, couples with small children and giant dogs shop for succulents and Nepalese textiles. Southbank is another locale worth dipping into, either for an afternoon or an evening. An urban renewal precinct on prime riverfront real estate, right next to the city centre, Southbank boasts a glitzy promenade bursting with stylish eateries and trendy bars. Most venues are unsurprisingly heavily tourist-orientated and priced accordingly, but this can easily be forgiven on one of those perfect but not too warm Melbourne days, when it would be a shame not to be sitting next to the river people-watching and sipping a glass of crisp white wine.

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Southbank is also the site of the Melbourne Arts Precinct, the home of Australia’s largest performing arts centre as well as The Australian Ballet, the Australian Centre for Contemporary Art, the Melbourne Theatre Company and the Melbourne Symphony Orchestra. Also here, the National Gallery of Victoria, Australia’s oldest and largest art museum, is worth devoting a few hours to. Its superb permanent collection spans everything from Renoir and Picasso to Warhol and Picasso ➤ www.ngv.vic.gov.au . Melbourne is a city where it is virtually impossible to be bored. Almost tangible, the city is brimming with creativity that bursts to the surface of the everyday in its urban art and café culture. There is always a new experience around the corner or just down a lane. Expressed as equally by the thousands who throng excitedly to gallery openings and first nights, as it is by the city’s buskers who play to appreciative crowds in the open-air malls, it is unlikely you’ll leave Melbourne without some of its creativity having rub off on you. ➤ www.visitmelbourne.com

National Gallery of Victoria

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Feast your eyes on unrivalled views of majestic sunsets over the Indian Ocean whilst enjoying a cuppa on the iconic Chequerboard â&#x20AC;&#x153;For a Spot of Ceylon Tea at the Sourceâ&#x20AC;? - 1000 Places to See Before You Die

2, Galle Road, Colombo 03, Sri Lanka T. (+94) 112 541 010 E. information@gallefacehotel.net www.gallefacehotel.com

D E S T I N AT I O N SPOTLIGHT

blissfully disconnected in the sri lankan jungle A L M O S T T O TA L LY O F F THE GRID AN D DEVOID OF MODERN COMFORTS, ALEX BENASU LI VISITS THE REMOTE LANTERN-LIT YO GA R E T R E AT OF U L P O T H A , WHERE THE SETTING IS AS IDYLLIC AS THE CLASSES

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HILST AN INTENSELY fascinating country, a large part of Sri Lanka’s attraction is that it offers every facet of a south Asian experience condensed into a far smaller territory. Not least, diverse landscapes, palm-fringed beaches, emerald forests, delectable cuisine, ancient religious sites and the spirituality of India fill the tropical island nation. Underlying it all is a deep rootedness in spiritual traditions and the gentle rhythms of village life. Sri Lanka is nothing if not a vibrant and enticing spiritual and cultural melting pot. Theravada Buddhism – which runs through much of Sri Lankan life – is the religion of the country’s Sinhalese majority. The Buddha himself paid three visits to Sri Lanka, the first of which was in 528 BC. His teachings on the nature of human suffering and the path to enlightenment are enshrined in Buddhist traditions, beliefs and spiritual practices. But since Buddha is not a god, Buddhists can’t ask him for things. Instead, Sri Lankans might go to a Hindu temple to make specific appeals. For in Sri Lanka, Hindus have folded Buddhism into their canon by making him an avatar of Vishnu. Sri Lankans routinely attend each other’s religious festivals and pilgrimage sites. Bus drivers leave cash at Buddhist shrines along the road and white stupas dot the horizon throughout the land. Because religious strife in Sri Lanka has at times been fierce, centuries of coexistence on this Indian Ocean island have blurred spiritual lines and life in Sri Lanka today is rather more shaped by spirituality, in its varying forms, than it is by any one faith.

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SPOTLIGHT ULPOTHA

Oozing mystery, tradition and nature, Ulpotha is a unique retreat that time appears to have forgotten

PART OF SRI LANKA’S APPEAL AS A TOURIST destination has always been its cultural mélange married with beautiful nature and a rural, laid-back pace. Yet, while Sri Lanka has been swiftly modernizing following the civil war which ended a decade ago, there remains a palpable, strong and inextricable connection to the country’s cultural and spiritual DNA. About 30 kilometres west of Dambulla and a few hours from Kandy, set in jungle surrounded by the Galgiriyawa Mountains where monks still live in remote temples and caves, few places on the island are as spiritually connected to the motherland as Ulpotha. Almost totally off the grid and oozing mystery, tradition and nature, Ulpotha is a unique wellness retreat that time appears to have quite literally forgotten. Just over three hours from Colombo airport and so far off the beaten track that Google Maps can’t exactly pinpoint its location, Ulpotha emerges discreetly out of a patchwork of hilly tropical forests, rice paddies, lakes and reservoirs that are distinctive of this part of the island. Arriving at Ulpotha is to truly leave behind one world and enter another. A mile from the nearest road, the retreat’s 11 mud huts are liberally scattered across 22 acres of forest which is home to all manner of wildlife. ➤

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The land was bought in 1994 by two friends – Viren Perera and Giles Scott – who repurposed it as a jungle party hideaway. It morphed into a wellness retreat completely by chance when Scott met a yoga instructor at a party and invited him to host a holiday amongst the huts. A quarter of a century later, Ulpotha is revered by yogis around the world and those who have stayed at the retreat instantly earn the highest level of respect from global wellness travellers. It is clear from the get-go that Ulpotha is unique. The set-up is akin to a remote Sri Lankan village into which the guest facilities have been integrated. Locals manage the grounds and decisions are made and disputes resolved by an elected committee and elders. The men wear colourful sarongs and the women wear saris. They busy themselves preparing meals, tending crops, maintaining the extensive grounds and running their own households, while keeping a watchful and warm eye over Ulpotha’s guests. IN TODAY’S HOSPITALITY JARGON, ULPOTHA MIGHT be described as an environmentally sustainable eco lodge. But this doesn’t really capture it. For starters, there is no electricity, wi-fi or mobile ‘phone coverage so no emails, WhatsApp or hair dryers. Ulpotha is essentially all about offering world class yoga in a setting as close to nature as is humanly possible. At the heart of Ulpotha, in a clearing carved out of the jungle landscape, is its gracious, restored ma-in house or walawwa, built around a central stone courtyard with an ancient well. It is filled with a jumble of colonial furniture, various carvings of the Buddha and Hindu deities and flower blossoms arranged in water-filled bowls. Collectively, they create a shabby-chic sense of home, like visiting a favourite, older and somewhat eccentric relative. Ulpotha attracts quite an eclectic crowd. During my stay, I met CEOs, entrepreneurs, a variety of creative types and a pair of supermodels. All ranged vastly in age. For many it was their

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second, third or fourth stay. Over the decades, guests have gone on to marry and have babies. Visit Ulpotha once and you too will almost certainly become part of its extended family. Though it is not chronicled that the Buddha stopped at Ulpotha during one of his visits to Sri Lanka, he may as well have, so exquisite is its natural setting and perfectly conducive to cultivating a deep inner peace. There is perhaps no better location on earth to restore one’s physical, mental and spiritual wellbeing. Frangipani, hibiscus and flame lilies are dotted throughout. A maze of paths cut through the dense terrain and connect all parts of the property. Foot bridges traverse small riverbeds which spill into waterfalls. Ulpotha is the kind of place where every tree has a story to tell. While Ulpotha’s heart may be its walawwa, its soul is the sprit-enhancing natural world in which the estate resides. To the rear of the walawwa is a generous, sprawling reservoir built more than 1,000 years ago, fed by spring water and fringed by blossoming trees whose leaves dance in the breezes. Ancient root systems fused with massive weather-beaten boulders complete this primeval looking slice of aquatic paradise. Egrets, cranes and butterflies float around the silky-smooth waters. Embedded in a far hillside, the white stupa of a small Buddhist temple casts a reassuring eye. Various hanging chaises, dotted strategically around the water’s edge, offer regal settings in which to put up one’s feet and absorb the sublime environs. A lot of time at Ulpotha is spent lounging by the lake, swimming and kayaking and doing so is akin to enjoying a taste of nirvana. The ribbons of steep hills that surround the reservoir and

SPOTLIGHT ULPOTHA

Ulpotha are mesmerizing, literally and figuratively cutting Ulpotha off from the outside world. From the waters’ edge, a fifteen-minute hike up a camouflaged path takes you to Monkey Rock. From the top, the thick verdant canopy of Sri Lanka’s mountainous hinterland unfolds as far as the eye can see. As cool breezes waft and birds circle overhead, watching the sun rise or set here is remarkable. On the way up and down I met a tribe of monkeys, miniature deer and a mongoose. More than half of Ulpotha’s guests stay for the recommended fortnight. Visiting yoga instructors teach in twoweek stints, many of whom have loyal followings and return year-after-year. It takes a special teacher to deliver classes that appeal to both beginners and advanced yogis. Despite their different styles and personalities, all of Ulpotha’s teachers have many years of experience. ➤

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There are typically two yoga classes daily at Ulpotha: vigorous in the early morning and more restorative late afternoon. Although Ulpotha’s yoga shala is perfect in every way, classes are sometimes held outside under a majestic banyan tree, or at Monkey Rock during sunset. International body work therapists also visit Ulpotha, usually in tandem with the yoga instructors. They run the gamut from physiotherapists to more esoteric energy healers. At the time of my stay, a wunderkind multi-faceted acupuncturist healed decades-long injuries after just a few sessions. In a completely different way, another therapist summoned the elements and healed using intuitive touch. Treatments are dispensed in semiexposed huts complete with a natural soundtrack of breezes, birdsong and babbling streams. A full range of Ayurvedic treatments are offered at Ulpotha for those seeking a more comprehensive healing journey, including Panchakarma which is a complete rejuvenation of body, mind and consciousness. In tune with Ulpotha as a whole, its Ayurvedic offerings are down-to-earth yet deeply authentic. FOOD IS A MAIN PILLAR OF ULPOTHA’S WELLBEING formula and mealtimes are a warm and social affair for guests to share their stories and wisdom and forge life-long friendships. Served in an open-sided ambalama adjoining the walawwa – which boasts beautiful views towards the surrounding hills – the mostly vegan and naturally gluten free food is exceptional. Each dish presented is visually more pleasing and freshly prepared with love. Almost all of the produce used in Ulpotha’s food comes from the village’s own rice paddies and vegetable

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Mealtimes are a warm and social affair for guests to share their stories and wisdom and forge life-long friendships gardens which are lovingly tended by the community. When the sun sets over Ulpotha is gets seriously dark and so the grounds are lit by a network of kerosene lanterns that illuminate the meandering paths. At night, village watchmen are strategically placed throughout the property to help guide guests in the right direction when they invariably lose their way. If you fear that Ulpotha is all about mung bean stew and crack of dawn sun salutations, you would be mistaken. Its full moon celebrations are legendary and an opportunity to get weird and wild. Ad hoc ecstatic sunrise dance practices on top of Monkey Rock are life changing. And tears of joy and raucous laughter constantly rumble through Ulpotha. At Ulpotha, luxury is defined by being completely exposed to nature in sync with its diurnal and nocturnal tempos. It’s about human relationships and a sense of community. It is seeing, believing and living a village life that is fast disappearing. Tempting as it may be for us to slip into despair about the pandemic crisis and state of the world, or fall down a rabbit hole of suffering over our less-than-perfect lives, Ulpotha shines light on a different path, highlighting what is possible when we are willing to ditch the rule book, enable dreams to be born and allow inspiration to transmute into action. After two weeks embedded in the best of Sri Lanka’s slow lane, I will almost certainly never be the same again. ➤ www.ulpotha.com

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taste&sip OUR FOOD AND DRINK E X P E R T S T R AV E L T O MIAMA BEACH AND FLORENCE

NOBU MIAMI ➤ MIAMI BEACH, USA

GUCCI GARDEN ➤ F L OR ENC E, I TA LY

RECIPES FROM THE KITCHEN OF

MICHEL ROUX JR.

Nobu Miami, USA

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A L E X B E NA SU L I DI S C OV ER S T H AT T H E FA M E D J A PA N E S E R E S T A U R A N T B R A N D F OU N D E D I N 19 9 4 , W H I C H T O DAY N U M BE R S M OR E T H A N F ORT Y L O C A T I O N S S PA N N I N G M U L T I P L E CONTINENTS, MORE THAN STILL LIVES UP TO THE HYPE

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Squid Pasta

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FOOD ATMOSPHERE

MIAMI IS ONE OF THE MOST dynamic cities in the States and a hot tourist destination pretty much yearround. While its Latin American-infused culture, legendary night life and beaches have always been a global draw, its culinary scene is now equally part of Miami’s appeal and a bevvy of awardwinning chefs are now thriving in the ‘Magic City’. Miami Beach and its iconic strip of restored art deco and 1950s hotels retain their allure, not only as luxury lodgings, but also as decadent social hubs for tourists and locals alike. In fact, the stakes are ever rising. Signature restaurants driven by big name chefs have become somewhat de rigueur. However, intense competition and the fickle nature of some Miamians (many of whom are constantly on the look-out for the next hot thing), mean that many new restaurants simply don’t survive. Against this backdrop, Nobu’s Miami restaurant is the de facto leader of the pack. ➤

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Tuna Tataki

SET WITHIN NOBU HOTEL MIAMI Beach on Collins Avenue, sharing space with the iconic Eden Roc hotel, Nobu Miami restaurant is set within Miami modern architecture merged with Nobu’s signature style to evoke a contemporary Japanese beach house. The overall effect is chic simplicity at its finest. Complete with neighbours like the Fontainebleau and Soho House, Miami’s Mid-Beach neighbourhood has now become one of the city’s most fashionable. Before the explosion of the celebrity chef phenomenon and restaurant brands with global presences, there was Nobu. From humble beginnings, Nobuyuki “Nobu” Matsushita has created a worldwide empire of design forward, buzzy, Japanese restaurants that have created a cult following amongst his

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legions of fans. To walk into Nobu is always to be transported to another world where the dining experience is the perfect mélange of culinary theatre, luxurious and sexy modern interiors, surpassed only by the highest quality, innovative takes on Japanese gastronomy. Walking through Eden Roc’s lobby instantly rekindles 1950s Miami Beach glamour. Terracotta floors, sweeping staircases and cathedral like ceilings surround, as you make for Nobu. An elegantly appointed maître d’ greets guests in a discreet vestibule, before guiding them to their tables through a cleverly divided cavernous space brimming with elegant design details. The extensive use of natural materials, particularly wood, harmoniously create

TA S T E & S I P

Wagyu Hot Stone

ingredients and savour every bite, so subtle, distinctive and utterly rewarding to one’s taste buds is every dish.

the dining experience is the perfect mélange of culinary theatre and sexy modern interiors an aesthetic that is both calming and pleasing to the eye. A giant honeycoloured set of geometric patterned ribbons acts as a sculptural camouflage to the ceiling. This work of art is not only visually exciting but also makes the massive space seem more intimate. Pillars wrapped in golden lattice work emerge like underwater rock formations. Wood panels of different hues and textures break up the wall spaces. Creative interpretations of the classic Japanese lantern emit warm and sexy lighting. The overall effect is that of a

golden-hued fantastical paradise that is entirely real. This room’s design sensibility is a metaphor for the Nobu culinary experience. Rooted firmly in Japanese cuisine but with more than a nod to more exotic tastes and flavours, Nobu practically invented Japanese/Peruvian fusion cooking. There is just enough creativity and innovation to veer into groundbreaking territory, but never so much that the brand’s origin is lost. When dining at Nobu, you really must pay attention to every dish and its

WHILE NOBU AFICIONADOS WILL have a cultivated sense of their favourite dishes, the servers are extremely knowledgeable and can deftly guide guests through the menu. Though there is a stable of classic dishes, each location has its own executive chef and unique local offerings which add to the fun of discovering different Nobu outlets. During this visit, I surrender completely to my waiter for the evening’s culinary expedition. Classic nibbles like edamame with Japanese sea salt are jazzed up with Peruvian corn. Rock shrimp tempura are deep fried to perfection and served with a spicy, citrusy slow-whisked mayonnaise. Specific to Nobu Miami, red snapper sashimi arrives wrapped in butter lettuce and wasabi relish infused with chili. Salmon sashimi is served with finely sliced Nashi pears, seasoned with olive oil, truffle essence, a hint of lime and sun-dried miso powder. Though it would have been tempting to double up on each of these dishes, one of Nobu’s all time classic lighter dishes was to come next. Yellowtail Hamachi with jalapeño, cilantro and yuzu (a mandarin orange hybrid found in northeast Asia) is all time favourite. Each bite is a symphony of flavours, with explosions of citrus, sweetness and spice rolling over my taste buds in waves. ➤

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Almost certainly Nobu’s most famous dish, an original concoction from the brand’s early days that has since been much copied the world over, is black cod with miso. Marinated in sweet miso and then baked in the oven, the rich miso glaze and buttery flakiness of the fish are melt-in-your-mouth delicious. To have taken a traditional Japanese home cooking favourite practically unknown to the West, and establish it as a core staple of upscale Japanese cuisine, is a testament to Matsushita’s influence on the global culinary scene. Though the menu choices at Nobu at times seems encyclopedic, it is hard to imagine a meal at Nobu without black cod with miso. For many it would be inconceivable to go to a Japanese restaurant without having sushi. At Nobu, the sushi preparation is more old school. There are no spicy tuna or dragon rolls. The quality of the fish speaks for itself with only a trace of sea salt, olive oil or chili flakes to enhance its flavour. Soy is frowned upon since it can overwhelm the palette. Yet, it’s not all fish at Nobu. The wagyu beef is a delicacy to die for. Nobu’s version is cooked on a hot stone at the table, which adds a dash of excitement.

Whitefish Dry Miso

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Chef Handroll

The wagyu is delectable. Also at Nobu Miami, grilled tenderloin with yuzu and truffle-infused butter, topped with shaved black truffle, is a decadent and delicious option for meat lovers. A VISIT TO NOBU IS ALWAYS MORE than the food. There literally isn’t a bad seat in the house. There are tables in the thick of Nobu’s buzzy scene, as well as hidden in discreet nooks. Die-hard fans or solo diners often prefer the sushi counter with views into the open kitchen. It is certainly the best spot to enjoy Nobu’s legendary omakase or tasting menus, where the chefs decide daily what to serve based on guests’ tastes and what is freshest. To be honest, Nobu’s omakase menu, at any location, is something of a bespoke gastronomic orgy. Miami Beach and Nobu work perfectly together. Both possess a contemporary sexiness and a casual chicness that perfectly straddle a sense of occasion with a relaxed and fun meal. Designer dress-clad ladies and their dates, families with children, businessmen entertaining clients and celebratory gatherings dine in the same glamorous venue. Miami is always a prime people watching destination and Nobu is undeniably one of its centre stages. A place to break the rules, let your hair down and go a little wild, Nobu Miami is an inherent part of the city’s social scene and its tantalising food and energizing ambiance a treat for the senses.

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EXECUTIVE CHEF: Thomas Buckley ADDRESS: 4525 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach, FL 33140, USA TELEPHONE: +1 305 695 3232 EMAIL: miamibeach@noburestaurants.com WEBSITE: ➤ www.noburestaurants.com CUISINE: Japanese LUNCH: Every day from noon in the bar DINNER: Sun–Thu 18:00–23:00, Fri–Sat 18:00–00:00 DINNER PRICE: Yellowtail Jalapeno USD 28; Black Cod with Miso USD 40; Prime Tenderloin with Yuzu Truffle, Crispy Onions USD 68; Valrhona Dark Chocolate Fondant Cake USD 14 IDEAL MEAL: Omakase Menu USD 110–USD 200 RESERVATIONS: Essential WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes CHILDREN: Highchairs available. No kids’ menu CREDIT CARDS: All major PARKING: Valet with dine-in-discount Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service and, separately, the atmosphere in the dining room

Home Homeof ofThe The SriLankan Lankan Sri LagoonCrab Crab Lagoon

www.ministryofcrab.com www.ministryofcrab.com reservations@ministryofcrab.com reservations@ministryofcrab.com ministryofcrab | ministryofcrab ministryofcrab | ministryofcrab

SHANGHAI 231 Nanjing Road West,People's Park, Shanghai | +8 6 21 6 31 8 0219 SHANGHAI 231 Nanjing Road West,People's Park, Shanghai | +86 21 631 80219 MANILA Shangri-La at the Fort, Manila | (6 3 2) 8 8 20 08 8 8 MANILA Shangri-La at the Fort, Manila | (63 2) 8820 0888 MUMBAI Zaveri House, Khar West, Mumbai, India | +91 771 089 8 8 11 MUMBAI Zaveri House, Khar West, Mumbai, India | +91 771 089 8811 MALDIVES The Marina @ CROSSROADS, Maldives | +96 0 741 2722 MALDIVES The Marina @ CROSSROADS, Maldives | +960 741 2722 BANGKOK S am- ed @ S ukhumv it Soi 31 |+6 6 9 8 58 98 6 554 BANGKOK Sam-ed @ Sukhumvit Soi 31 |+669 858 986 554

taste &sip BRAINCHILD OF GUC C I ’ S S U P ER STA R C R EAT I V E DI R E C T OR ALESSANDRO MICHELE, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU VISITS THE GLOBAL BRAND’S U N I Q U E R E S TAU R A N T, GA L L ERY A N D CONCEPT STORE IN FLORENCE, WHERE THE FINE D I N E R , M U S E U M G O E R A N D FA S H I O N A F ICIONA D O GR AC E F U L LY C OA L E S CE

Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura

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WHAT ALESSANDRO MICHELE has achieved at Gucci during the past five years is nothing short of a complete overhaul of the iconic brand. So the opening of Gucci Garden, two years ago in Italy’s cultural capital, was a natural progression of the designer’s creative spirit and came as little surprise to fashion aficionados and those that know him. Few will know that Guccio Gucci founded the house of Gucci in Florence in the early 20th century. His first talent being his craftsmanship in leather goods, Gucci first opened a saddlery shop in 1906. It was 1921 when Gucci founded the fashion house bearing his name. Gucci grew and prospered in Florence and its surroundings where the leather and textile industry was thriving. Several years ago, Gucci moved its design headquarters to Rome, where it occupies a grand Renaissance building called the Palazzo Alberini. Completed in 1519, the erection of the palazzo followed a plan which is widely believed to have been penned by Raphael and many art historians recognise his touch in the building’s elegantly geometric façade. The former chapel of the palazzo is now

the office of Gucci’s creative director. Since January 2015 this position has been held by Michele, a Rome native in his forties, who worked at Gucci for 14 years before his ascension. In December 2014, Michele was second-incommand at the company, overseeing its accessories line. The following month it all changed when he stepped into the role of creative director. Within his first week, Michele had overseen the design of an entirely new men’s collection. The complete antithesis to his predecessor’s unadventurous designs, Michele’s first menswear collection for Gucci included a blouselike red shirt fastened at the neck with a pussycat bow. In addition, Michele injected a distinctly modern edge into the runway show by presenting the garments on both male and female models. Two days after the show, Michele was officially promoted to creative director of Gucci. Michele is a man who looks at modern fashion with a historical eye. Inspired by life rather than fashion, in the past five years, he has infused the famous Italian fashion house with a vitality and 21st century relevance that it had been lacking for many years. ➤

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Purple corn tostada

Tasked with resurrecting the brand following a number of disappointing seasons of underwhelming sales, as well as appealing to millennial customers while still maintaining Gucci’s legacy as a premium brand, the Roman designer deftly achieved all three by pivoting towards gender fluidity, bucolic imagery and downright maximalism. Nowhere is this more on display than Gucci Garden in Florence. A historic jewel in the crown of the quintessentially Florentine fashion house, Gucci Museo next to Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio previously served as a shrine to the brand’s history, from Guccio Gucci’s beginnings through to Tom Ford’s tenure and beyond. But in Michele’s mind it had become tired and dated,

Taka bun

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The result is smart yet unpretentious fare, with plates alive with tastes and textures not least because today, the industry in which Michele is making waves embraces all corners of the fashion world. With Michele in the driving seat the reimagined museum was always going to be unique. Pushing the fashion-food envelope to the next level, the historic 14th century Palazzo della Mercanzia now houses a multifunctional exhibition space spread over two floors, Gucci Garden Galleria, which visually traces the history of the brand; a unique boutique, Gucci Garden, bedecked with a variety of one-of-a-kind items spanning everything from chairs to clothes in a kaleidoscopic range of colours, and a Gucci-branded restaurant, Gucci Osteria, conceptualised by much celebrated Italian chef Massimo Bottura. Bottura’s three Michelin starred restaurant Osteria Francescana, located in the modest Italian town of Modena, topped the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2016, was voted number 2 in

2017 and returned to pole position in 2018 as outright winner of The World’s Best Restaurant award. To deliver one of the world’s finest dining experiences, Bottura combines nods to tradition with culinary modernity and serves plates bursting with good, old-fashioned flavours. It’s an award-winning formula. For Gucci Osteria at Gucci Garden, Bottura fashioned a fresh and modern menu in tandem with the restaurant’s chef de cuisine, Karime Lopez. The result is smart yet unpretentious fare, with plates exquisitely presented and alive with tastes and textures. Unsurprisingly, Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura was awarded a Michelin star less than two years after opening its chic doors. Guests enter the restaurant via the Gucci Garden boutique and are seated without drama or fanfare. A plush, long, bottle green velvet banquette runs the length of one wall, while circular

TA S T E & S I P

Tortellini with parmigiano reggiano cream

Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura

Il Maschile Room

tables fill the length of the other. Staff are warm, friendly, knowledgeable and dressed in Gucci. Fine white linen graces the tables. Food is served on distinctive Gucci crockery crafted in Richard Ginori porcelain. But despite being a Gucci restaurant, the branding isn’t obviously in your face. It is subtle and has been executed in a skilful, tasteful fashion. Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura is a reflection of Florence’s historical significance as a cultural confluence and creative melting pot during the Renaissance period, an important theme

Detournement Room

and inspiration for both Bottura and Lopez. Meanwhile, the restaurant’s seasonally changing menu is inspired by the team’s culinary travels, global experience and a combined passion for art and music applied to Italian cuisine. Bottura’s spins on global dishes are complete triumphs. I could have eaten another three of the Chinesestyle steamed bun filled with pork belly meat, which I wolfed down in rather unGucci-like fashion. Every dish that was delivered to the table, as part of a sevencourse tasting menu, elicited delight

in either my companion or I. The wine pairing was spot-on throughout. A gastronomic highlight of the meal was Bottura’s signature tortellini dish, with parmesan cream, which was simply divine. If you have a few hours to spare, it is undoubtedly worth opting for the tasting menu with paired wines. In a city which is often so busy it’s difficult to stop for breath, if you are going to pause anywhere in Florence, pit stop at Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura and feast on some of the best fare in Tuscany. ➤ www.gucci.com/ us/en/store/osteria-bottura

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COOK ON E OF T H E WOR L D’ S MO ST FA M O U S C H E F S , PA R T O F A DY NA ST Y OF C U L I NA RY W I Z A R D S, MICH E L ROU X J R. SH A R E S T WO OF HIS CLASSIC RECIPES WITH T H E C U L T U R E D T R AV E L L E R ’ S R EA DER S, R EA DER S, S O YOU CAN WHIP UP SOME GOURMET C U I SI N E AT HOM E, W H I L E T H E R E S TAU R A N T S C E N E S T I L L R E E L S FROM THE EFFECTS OF THE C O R O N AV I R U S P A N D E M I C

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SOFT BOILED EGG WITH SMOKED SALMON, ASPARAGUS TIPS & CAVIAR

INGREDIENTS 30 small asparagus tips 4 slices smoked salmon 2 tablespoons double cream 2 tablespoons horseradish relish 4 eggs 120g sevruga caviar 12 round brioche bread toasts (1cm thick, 3-5cm wide) Olive oil

PREPARATION ■ Peel the asparagus and trim to 4cm lengths. ■ Cook the asparagus in boiling salted water until just tender (5-7 minutes), then immediately refresh in ice-cold water and drain. ■ Cut the smoked salmon into 18 rounds, using a cutter which is the same diameter as the brioche. ■ Whip the cream and add the horseradish relish. ■ Cook the eggs in boiling water for 3½ minutes, hold under cold running water for 10 seconds and then peel while still hot. ■ Put the eggs into a warm dish and break them up with a fork - the yolks should be runny and the whites solid. ■ Season with a little pepper and gently fold in the caviar. ■ Reheat the asparagus in boiled salted water, drain and roll in a little olive oil to make them glossy.

ASSEMBLY ■ Put a small dollop of horseradish cream in the centre of each plate, then a smoked salmon round, more horseradish and then the lightly toasted brioche slice. ■ Repeat the layers to finish with brioches and three smoked salmon rounds on each plate. ■ Arrange the asparagus on top and spoon the egg and caviar mixture around. ➤

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ICED RED BERRY SOUFFLÉ

INGREDIENTS 1kg mixed berries (e.g. strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, blackcurrants) plus extra to decorate 4 egg whites 400g caster sugar Juice of one lemon 500ml water 80ml whipping cream

PREPARATION ■ Hull and, if necessary, wash the fruit. Blend with 150g of the sugar, then pass through a fine sieve and add lemon juice to heighten the taste if required. ■ Prepare 10 individual soufflé dishes (9cm diameter x 6cm deep) by tying a piece of greaseproof paper around the edge to form a collar that stands 5cm above the rim. ■ Put the egg whites into the bowl of an electric mixer. In a perfectly clean saucepan, dissolve the remaining 250g of sugar in the water over low heat. When the sugar has completely dissolved, bring to the boil, skim off the foam and cook to 120°C / 250°F on a sugar

thermometer. Beat the egg whites until foamy, then, with the whisk still running, pour the hot sugar directly on the egg whites, avoiding the beaters. Continue beating until the meringue is cool. ■ Whip the cream until soft peaks form and fold into the fruit pulp. Delicately fold in the meringue, then spoon into the prepared soufflé dishes. Freeze for 12 hours.

ASSEMBLY ■ Decorate with fresh berries. ■ Optionally serve with a sauce made by pureeing 500g berries with 100g caster sugar, sharpening the taste with a touch of lemon juice.

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M USIC & NIG HT LIFE

THE S KYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S THE L I M IT FOR

A S M U L T I G R A M M Y AWA R D - W I N N I N G S I N G E R A N D GE N R E -BLU RR I NG V I RT UO S O M USICI A N JA C O B C O L L I E R P R E PA R E S T O R E L E A S E A N E W A L B U M , T H E C U L T U R E D T R AV E L L E R S I T S D O W N W I T H T H E TA L E N T E D C R E AT I V E DY NA MO AT H I S HOM E I N NORT H L ON D ON

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What was the first instrument you picked-up?

My first instrument was the human voice. Since I think that’s where many people begin their musical journey, mine was no different. I would listen to as much music as I could and try to accomplish as much of it as possible using my voice alone, before branching out to other instruments. Since it has had a profound effect on your career, please tell us about your musical family?

I was brought up primarily by a single mother, alongside two younger sisters. My mother is one of the most musical human beings I’ve ever known. But, even more than that, she had a profound intuition for how to provide a space for the three of us where being creative and being ourselves felt utterly natural. What popular artists or musicians influenced young Jacob?

Stevie Wonder, Bobby McFerrin, Bach, Benjamin Britten, Earth Wind & Fire, Joni Mitchell, Prince, Incognito, Sergio Mendes, Deerhoof, Dirty Projectors, Bjork, Skrillex, Beck, Gwilym Simcock and Stravinsky. Basically, all sorts! What ignited your experimentation with complex arrangements and re-harmonisation at such an early age?

Early on, I was drawn to music that was dense and multilayered, since I had the kind of brain that loved a lot of colourful stimulation, rich with detail and intention. I was introduced to the music of mavericks like Django Bates and Take 6, and their use of harmony was unlike anything I’d ever heard before. I wanted to create music that felt like that, with all the twists and turns I found so satisfying. When did you first discover YouTube and how did you use it initially?

YouTube was founded when I was ten years old. By 12–13 I was using it fairly regularly to deep-dive into ideas and musicians who excited me. It wasn’t until 2012 [aged 17] that I uploaded my first video. From there, it was a matter of experimenting as much as I could until something clicked for me. When I figured out how to make videos with multiple “Jacob faces” on the screen at the same time, I was hooked.

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I was, since technology evolved at exactly the right speed for things to be newly possible in my creative life and career over the last ten years in an astounding way. Since day one, your YouTube videos have always had a strong visual element. Tell us why visuals are important to your work? Aside from YouTube, what other tools were available to young Jacob, which were pivotal to the early development of your career?

I had one microphone – Shure SM58 – a small Focusrite recording interface and a Mac computer with Logic Pro. Most crucially, I had a space in the house where I felt safe to create as much music as I needed to problem-solve. Other than the house piano, there wasn’t a great deal of music equipment around. I don’t think anybody needs a lot of gear to create meaningful music. When did you first fuse technology and music? Was it akin to an awakening for you?

When I realised that it was possible to layer tracks on top of one another easily using Logic Pro, something clicked in my mind and I found a way to make music the way I was hearing it – with multiple layers and all the precision that I needed to really craft what was in my mind. I feel very lucky to have been born when

I have always loved symmetry and order and been fascinated with shape and form, both literally and conceptually, despite never being a ‘visual artist’ per se. Once I stated making videos to visualise the things I was hearing, it was another ‘click’ moment and realised that I had been honing the attention to detail needed to work this skill into my arsenal. I fell in love with visuals right away. How do you convey the visual aspect of your work during a live performance in a concert hall?

This process has changed over the years. When I was touring with my one-man-show – 10 instruments in a circle, alone on stage, with lots of live looping – I had a video screen behind me duplicating real-time versions of myself as I looped multiple instruments. Nowadays, with my 5-piece band, I send a lot of musical data to the lighting console, bringing the entire stage to life in a crazy way. How important is technology to your work?

Technology is a huge part of my process. It provides an incredible canvas, not only for crafting meaningful things, but also for sharing them with the world.

➤

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Quincy saw a YouTube video I uploaded, covering a Stevie Wonder song called Don’t You Worry ‘Bout A Thing. That was back in 2013. I still can’t believe it! Since 2014, how has Quincy Jones’ management company supported you?

I often have a lot of crazy ideas. Most notably, the idea of touring the world alone, with a one-man show, was an idea that took a lot of planning and guidance from a business and logistics perspective. Since those days, we’ve done many crazy things together. Across the (almost) four albums I’ve released, Quincy’s management company has been integral to my processes and given me infinite creative space to drive things the way I want ➤ to. At this point, they almost feel like family.

Today, does technology fuel or feed into your creative process?

Being able to create what is in my head, with such ease nowadays, means that I never think an idea is impossible, since everything is possible with technology. As an artist, I get to think only about what’s important for me to say, not whether or not I am able to say it. I find this amazing. At what age did you first notice jazz music?

I fell in love with jazz aged about 16. I was drawn to it for a few reasons, but mainly because I was so obsessed with musical harmony and I loved how jazz musicians played melodies that felt harmonic. I began to learn jazz standards and figure out how to improvise over them. This led me to love and challenge a lot of fundamental musical constructs. When were you first noticed by Quincy Jones?

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SO MUCH MUSICAL UNDERSTANDING COMES FROM JAZZ AND BLUES

stupendous level to be recognised on that kind of world stage. It’s meant I have been able to work on my own terms in such a consistent way. I’m forever grateful and forever humbled by that day.

Tell us about In My Room? Do you get much real time with the great man himself?

Whenever we’re in the same city, Quincy and I always try to hang out. I love him to pieces and have the most incredible amount of respect for the man. He’s the greatest. I’m extraordinarily grateful for all that he has given to the world and given to me. Tell us about your #IHarmU campaign?

My first album In My Room was released entirely independently. To fund it, I set up a page on Patreon.com and built a campaign for fans to send their 15-second melodies which I harmonised and uploaded to social media. The campaign lasted over a year and more than 130 melodies were sent it. It tripled my social media following and taught me a hell of a lot about harmonising at speed! We raised enough money to make four music videos for the album, which was awesome.

In My Room was the first album I created and released. It was recorded, composed, arranged, engineered and mixed entirely alone in my room at home in north London. It was the first time I’d ever written songs. It felt good and I learned so much. How did your career change after winning a Grammy?

Doors that had been closed until that point were suddenly opened. It was a profoundly exciting turning point in my life. Last year, at the Jazz FM Awards in London, you won the prestigious PRS for Music Gold Award. How did it feel to be the award’s youngest ever recipient?

Again, it’s not the kind of thing you ever expect so early on in a career. It was a great day and I was very honoured to accept the award. What does jazz mean to you today?

In 2018, aged 22, you picked up two Grammy Awards for your debut album In My Room. How did it feel?

It was a beautiful, thrilling moment. I never expected something like that to happen so early in my career. It was validating on a

I don’t think “jazz” accurately describes the music I make. I have learned a great deal from studying where jazz came from. But now music is changing fast, which is wonderful and exciting. Quincy often describes jazz as ‘the classical music of pop’. When it comes to song writing, so much musical understanding comes from jazz and blues. How did it first feel to be part of the BBC Proms and perform at the Royal Albert Hall?

To be given my own prom at such a young age was an unforgettable moment and an honour I shall never forget. The Albert Hall is one of my favourite rooms on the planet. You have already collaborated with Herbie Hancock, Hans Zimmer and Pharrell Williams. Who, today, would you most like to collaborate with?

I’d love to collaborate with Kendrick Lamar and Stevie Wonder. My current project, Djesse, which is a four-volume epic, has seen a lot of my collaboration dreams come true. So far, there are about 30 collaborators! Now you regularly perform concerts, is YouTube still as important to your career?

More so than ever. I think of it as the ultimate ‘catalogue’ of ➤

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I feel like artists are thriving a lot, because of their inherent alchemy chops. Tell us about your four-volume album Djesse, the first two parts of which were released in 2019?

content – more so than Instagram, Facebook or Twitter. It’s the ultimate content destination. Things last forever on YouTube. What do you most enjoy about travelling the globe?

I love getting tastes of places that feel unfamiliar and finding what’s familiar about them. I find it very inspiring to be surrounded by things I don’t fully understand. I love breathing the different types of air, tasting the food and meeting the people. All except airport queues, that is! Of all the countries you’ve travelled to, which have you most enjoyed?

I adored travelling to Reunion Island, New Zealand and Australia; across Europe to Morocco, South America – Buenos Aires was incredible – and Brazil, and to Canada and the USA. India took my breath away. The world is truly an incredible place. How have you continued to be creative during the coronavirus crisis?

I feel very well equipped to create during this period of time and I am profoundly lucky to have my room, where so much is possible creatively. Psychologically, it’s very strange to see the world on pause. I was meant to be kicking off a world tour right about now, but I’m grateful I’ve had such time to think.

Djesse is a massive extravaganza, traversing every musical genre and sound world under the sun. In total it’s about 50 songs long, stretching across four full-length albums. I conceived it as four separate musical spaces: Volume 1 being the dawn-into-morning – huge, acoustic, orchestral and expansive; Volume 2 being the afternoon-evening – cozy, worldinspired, acoustic, gentle and filled with songs; Volume 3 being the night – wild, experimental, euphoric, dark, digital and deep; and Volume 4 being the re-emerging dawn. There a total of around 40 collaborations scattered across the spectrum of genres. As the sole producer, conceiver, arranger and songwriter of Djesse it’s quite the endeavour!     When will volume three of Djesse be released?

Volume 3 is the one I am most excited about. It will be out this summer. It has forever changed my musical landscape and I cannot wait for you to hear it. Do you ever switch off from music and/or how do you do to relax?

It is very rare that I’m not thinking in some way about music, or what it has the power to do. I’ve never been busier in my life than I am right now, which is incredible. That said, downtime is very important. I’ve been enjoying spending some time with family whilst everybody’s home. What is the destination you would most like to travel to when there are no restrictions?

I’ve always wanted to explore Alaska. And there are so many parts of Africa I am musically drawn to – like Senegal and Benin – that I feel would be wonderful to visit. During a tour, one only ever really scratches the surface. I particularly can’t wait to get back to New Zealand. But even travelling into central London would feel amazing right now! Djesse Vol. 3 will be released this summer ➤ www.jacobcollier.com

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THE CULTURED T R AV E L L E R D I S C O V E R S THE SECRETS TO THE PH ENOM ENA L SUC CE S S OF THE GLOBETROTTING AU T HOR , E N T R E P R E N E U R AND AMBASSADOR FOR BR A N D BR I TA I N, W HO H A S BEEN AT T H E T OP OF T H E DE SIGN GA M E F O R T H E B E S T PA R T OF FOUR DECADES

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Bottom left: Young Kelly with her father Seymour in Courchevel. Right: A private London home designed by Kelly Hoppen. Below right: An apartment in Shenzhen designed by Kelly Hoppen

Tell us a bit about your upbringing?

My family moved to London when I was a toddler. But at 16, when my father died, I returned to South Africa and went a bit wild. I went touring with a band and was even arrested for mixing with black musicians. I have wonderful memories of South Africa and spending time in my grandparents’ home. Their house outside Cape Town called “Stone House” was the most incredible family home and we visited every Christmas. It was a very traditional home with log fires and antique heirlooms. I remember the drawing room with its fabric combinations of suedes, leather, chenilles, velvets and lots of buttoning on cushions – these played a big part in my interest in home design. What ignited your love affair with design and interiors?

I’ve been obsessed with design and interiors for as long as I can remember! When I was growing up, instead of wanting to play with friends, I would ask my mum to look at showhouses. My mother worked in the art world and no doubt this inspired me along the way. Regularly visiting my grandparents’ home when I was young, and feeling the space, smells and textures, also played a part.

And fuelled your entrepreneurial drive?

I didn’t enjoy school since I’m severely dyslexic. My father dying while I was so young was a real turning point for me, since I didn’t want to depend on anyone. It was at this point that I started my business with a lot of passion and a fearless attitude. What was your first paid job?

Designing the kitchen of a family friend when I was 16. They placed an incredible amount of belief and trust in me and despite a few hiccups along the way, I completed the job and moved on to the next and the next.

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My style is clean, modern and layered. A fusion of the deep textures of the East and the sleek lines of the West

INTERVIEW

Your signature style summed-up in one sentence?

Clean, modern and layered, topped off with a delicate fusion of the deep textures of the East and the sleek lines of the West. What interior design style most offends you?

Overdone design with patterns over patterns and clutter for the sake of it. Interiors that you can’t breathe in suffocate me. You founded your studio in 1975, without any investors or loans, and haven’t looked back since. How?

Once I started the studio and I had the independence to make my own business and design decisions, my confidence grew quickly and I loved it. After my first kitchen job, a girlfriend of mine knew a racing driver – Guy Edwards – who wanted his house done up. I ended up doing the whole house and that was my first big job. My next client was Keke Rosberg, the Finnish racing driver. By the time I was 17 and a half, I was running a fully-fledged business. It wasn’t daunting – I loved every minute of it. If you love what you do, it makes a huge difference. To what do you attribute such early success in your career?

The tragedy of my father’s death gave birth to an ambitious, hard-working and ‘independent Kelly’. I always knew this is what I wanted to do so, as soon as I had my foot on the ladder, I didn’t stop pursuing it. Was there a pivotal moment?

There were two: when I received the Andrew Martin Designer of the Year award in my early 20s. To be ➤

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recognised in the industry at such a young age led to many amazing things. And publishing my book East Meets West solidified my unique style, which was something that no one else was doing. What do you love most about creating a new interior?

The sheer joy of the ideas and the client’s happiness at being able to achieve what they want. Is there somewhere you particularly love to visit which inspires you?

I love being in the countryside and I love the outdoors and being surrounded by nature. It really relaxes me and truly inspires me. How did it feel, in 2009, to be awarded an MBE for your services to interior design?

To be honoured by the Queen meant everything to me and was just so humbling and surreal. Your books are very popular and published across the world. How do you translate your signature style and designer interiors onto paper, to make them accessible to readers?

A huge part of my business ethos is to share my knowledge and experience with others. My books are hugely visual and I break things down in detail to explain how I design. It’s hugely important to me to share my knowledge and skills to make my style more accessible to others. What did you most enjoy about Dragons’ Den?

I absolutely loved being a part of the show and being able to work with so many dedicated and creative

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A hotel’s interiors should provide a calming atmosphere and a sense of ease

I’ve always stayed true to my signature East-meets-West style, but it has evolved naturally as I myself and interior fashions have changed. I’ve always been a firm believer in the luxurious capacity of simplicity; this belief is what has given my career such longevity and made my designs a success globally. Have your clients’ needs changed much in the past 40 years?

entrepreneurs. Dragons’ Den opened up a lot of great business relationships for me. I also enjoyed being able to help take the businesses, in which I invested, to the next level. Many of them went on to achieve great success, such as Skinny Tan and Reviveaphone. And least enjoy?

Being on Dragons’ Den consumed a lot of time, which detracted me from running my own business. After two fantastic years, I decided to step down to focus on a number of exciting business ventures. You have been designing for more than four decades – has your signature style changed during that time?

The biggest change has been technology and sustainability. Peoples’ lives have become increasingly busy and they need things in their homes to be convenient and their spaces to work well for their lifestyle. It is also important for many of our clients to find the best ways to be sustainable with materials, and ensure some spaces have versatile and multiple functions. This is as true with commercial projects – such as cruise ships, hotels and development buildings – as it is with private homes. Things are about to change again, in light of the coronavirus. We’re all going to spend much more time in our homes, so people will want to invest more in and ensure that they love the space in which they live.

INTERVIEW

Are clients more or less educated when it comes to interior design?

Definitely more educated. Platforms like Instagram and Pinterest have created these infinite worlds of inspiration which are accessible to anyone. People are a lot more forthcoming with ideas, which are great springboards for my team and I. However, a lot of people come to me because they want my style and always end up listening to my advice! While you and your team have put your stamp on countless homes over the years, during the past decade you have increasingly worked on a number of resort hotels. How did this branchingout come about?

I actually designed the Murmuri Hotel in Spain many years ago, but my work with LUX* Island Resorts came about after I visited one of their old properties, and during my stay I met the CEO, Paul Jones. I told him exactly what I thought about the design (which wasn’t a lot!) and he then ask me to get involved. That was many years ago. Since then, I’ve now designed several LUX* properties which I’ve enjoyed immensely. Please tell us about your work with LUX* in Mauritius?

I’d always loved Mauritius and its incredible white sand beaches. The whole project was three years in the

making. When I arrived, the property was oppressive and dark. The aim was to brighten the whole place up and make it a lighter luxury experience which we achieved through introducing amazing natural textures, a neutral colour palette and accents of traditional Mauritian shades of orange, blue, greens and pinks. When you set foot in the hotel, you want to relax and get rid of the stresses of the city, and this could only be achieved with a pared back, simplistic design. What do you aim to achieve when designing a hotel room?

For me, a hotel should be a home-awayfrom-home and its interiors should provide a calming atmosphere and a sense of ease. Designing a hotel room requires balance; whilst it is crucial that each room provides homely touches and plenty of storage, this must not be sacrificed for luxury. ➤

Left to right: One of Kelly’s many books; Honeymoon suite at LUX* Belle Mare, designed by Kelly Hoppen; Murmuri Hotel designed by Kelly Hoppen; Kelly on Dragons’ Den

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What do you most enjoy about travelling the globe?

I love being in a new place, experiencing new cultures and meeting new people. I also love seeing how different places around the world are designed. It’s truly a magical experience to be able to travel and experience somewhere new, taste new foods, understand a different culture and see new art. What is your favourite hotel on the planet to kick-back and relax?

La Scalinatella on the island of Capri, which boasts the most incredible views of the Faraglioni rocks and the bay of Marina Piccola, a wonderful team and an incredibly relaxing atmosphere. I also love LUX* Belle Mare in Mauritius which feels like my second home! And your favourite city hotel?

The Upper House in Hong Kong is amazing – cutting-edge and comfortable with impeccable service. Somewhere you’d love to visit but haven’t got to yet?

When things improve for travelling, I would love to visit Japan. It’s been on my list forever and it’s unbelievable that I haven’t made it there yet! I can’t wait to immerse myself in the culture, architecture and, of course, the food.

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I love seeing how different places are designed. It’s a magical experience to be able to travel and experience somewhere new

And how do you handle the ‘off days’ that everyone inevitably has?

If I’m having an ‘off’ day I go back to basics; I call my daughter or one of my friends. It’s important to have a good support system. I go for a walk in the sun and enjoy watching Netflix with my partner. I think it’s very important to remember that these are very strange times and we shouldn’t put too much pressure on ourselves to feel and act ‘normal’ 24/7. Has working from home been easy for you and your team?

I was ready for the lockdown very early – I knew it was coming and everything was in place very quickly. To be honest, some of the team have even managed to get more done at home than usual and I’ve become a master at multitasking. I can be on a conference call while changing the bed sheets. Of course, I miss seeing and working with the team, but a few of us who can walk to the studio have started going back in while still socially distancing. What is the destination you would most like to travel to when there are no restrictions?

Australia. I have become obsessed with and want to be by the sea. As soon as we can, I will go to Australia and explore. Until then, I’ll dream. You’re also working with Celebrity Cruises?

I have designed interiors for Celebrity Cruises’ new “Celebrity Apex” cruise ship. I also designed various spaces, including the residences and spas, for “Celebrity Edge”. We really pushed design boundaries, with every space oozing ground-breaking luxury and modernity, particularly the suites and villas, which combine luxury with home comforts to ensure that guests are totally relaxed. How have you kept in good spirits during

the coronavirus crisis?

I’ve worked really hard to maintain a positive frame of mind, not only for myself but also for my family and my team. I believe that we have to adjust to, rather than resist, the lifestyle changes the virus crisis has enforced and try to see the good in a bad situation. I’ve never had so much time to chat with friends, interact with my Instagram community or contribute to panels and discussions with my peers. It’s been incredible for communication and connection. But I miss my family terribly and cannot wait to see them.

Left to right: The Upper House, Hong Kong; Kelly at home in London; Kelly’s London home; La Scalinatella, Capri

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LOOKS BLING BLING, SOUNDS BOOM BANG TICKETS AVAILABLE ON WWW.ELBPHILHARMONIE.COM

WEB ADDRESSES FOR EVERY PLACE AND PERSONALITY FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE OF

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

➤ www.aman.com/resorts/amanyangyun

HOTEL AMIGO, BRUSSELS

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AMANYANGYUN

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RAFFLES EUROPEJSKI WARSAW

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ROSEWOOD BAHA MAR

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SUNDY PRAIA ➤ www.sundyprincipe.com

BAWAH RESERVE ➤ www.bawahisland.com

KRIPALU ➤ www.kripalu.org

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SOMATHEERAM AYURVEDIC HEALTH

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SO/ PASEO DEL PRADO LA HABANA

➤ www.sofitel.accor.com

KELLY HOPPEN

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COMO SHAMBHALA ESTATE

➤ www.bensleycollection.com/shintamani-wild

RESORT ➤ www.somatheeram.org

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CAMP SARIKA BY AMANGIRI

SHINTA MANI WILD

KACHI LODGE ➤ www.kachilodge.com

BAGLIONI RESORT MALDIVES

LON RETREAT & SPA ➤ www.lonretreat.com.au

MIAVANA

TAJ EXOTICA RESORT & SPA, ANDAMANS

➤ www.taj.tajhotels.com TERRANEA RESORT ➤ www.terranea.com THE BLUE LAGOON RETREAT HOTEL

➤ www.bluelagoon.com/retreat THE LANGHAM, LONDON

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➤ www.thenewtinsomerset.com

CONRAD BORA BORA NUI

➤ www.timeandtideafrica.com/camp/miavana

THE OBEROI MARRAKECH

➤ www.conradhotels.com

MICHEL ROUX JR. ➤ www.michelroux.co.uk

➤ www.oberoihotels.com

MOMBO CAMP ➤ www.wilderness-safaris.com

➤ www.devaaya.com

NOBU MIAMI ➤ www.noburestaurants.com

DEVAAYA - AYURVEDA & NATURE CURE CENTRE

ULPOTHA ➤ www.ulpotha.com

OMAANDA

VISIT MELBOURNE

MALDIVES AT LANDAA GIRAAVARU

➤ www.zannierhotels.com/omaanda

➤ www.visitmelbourne.com

➤ www.fourseasons.com

ONE&ONLY GORILLA’S NEST

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FOUR SEASONS RESORT

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ONEWORLD AYURVEDA

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➤ www.grandhoteltremezzo.com

PARK HYATT VIENNA

GRAND HOTEL TREMEZZO

INDEX

LIT T L E B L AC K B O O K

VANA ➤ www.vana.co.in

WANÅS ➤ www.wanas.se

GUCCI OSTERIA

➤ www.vienna.park.hyatt.com

➤ www.gucci.com/us/en/store/osteria-bottura

PAUL OAKENFOLD ➤ www.pauloakenfold.com

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room with a view S U I T E G R E TA ➤ G R A N D H O T E L T R E M E Z Z O , L A K E C O M O , I TA LY

NAMED AFTER ONE OF THE FIRST Hollywood sirens to fall in love with Lake Como, Suite Greta is located on the first floor of extraordinary palace-like Grand Hotel Tremezzo, which dates back to 1910. Indeed, Greta Garbo immortalised the hotel in the 1932 movie Grand Hotel, in which she describes Tremezzo as “that happy, sunny place”. From the private terrace of Suite Greta, guests enjoy

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panoramic vistas across the water towards the beautiful village of Bellagio on the opposite shore, which is perched on the tip of a long hilly promontory, between the two southern branches of Lake Como. Beyond Bellagio are the Grigne mountains, which hug the eastern branch of Lake Como. The range’s two main mountains – Grignone and Grignetta – rise to more than 2,000 metres in the distance. ➤ www.grandhoteltremezzo.com

A heavenly abode that escorts you into the world of Omanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beauty, culture and rich past. An experience like no other, tailormade for you. Alila Jabal Akhdar, awaits you.

e jabalakhdar@alilahotels.com

t +968 2534 4200 or +968 9910 4204

#AlilaJabalAkhdar @alilajabalakhdar

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