The Cultured Traveller - Sixth Anniversary Edition, September-November 2020 Issue 31 by The Cultured Traveller

CARTAGENA COLOMBIA’S CARIBBEAN QUEEN ➤ I S SU E 31

UK £10

SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

Cultured T H E

EU €10

In conversation with celebrated photographer

RANKIN

T R AV E L L E R

th anniversary edition QUEEN OF THE SKIES Five decades of the game-changing Jumbo

THE PENTHOUSE SUITE Atop Zürich’s 700-year-old hospitality icon

GAL OYA NATIONAL PARK Sri Lanka’s last natural frontier

SIXTH ANNIVERSARY EDITION ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

highlights 6 2 C O L O M B I A’ S CARIBBEAN QUEEN

Embraced by the Pacific and Atlantic oceans, Colombia is one of the most fascinating countries on the planet. Nicholas Chrisostomou drops anchor in its 16th Century city of CARTAGENA de Indias – a fairytale destination of historic beauty, romance, legends and secrets contained within centuries-old stone walls.

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

11 3 T H E L E G E N D

BEHIND THE LENS

Over the past four decades, renowned British magazine publisher, filmmaker and photographer RANKIN has shot some of the world’s most iconic figures, published dozens of books and travelled the globe. He talks exclusively to The Cultured Traveller.

134 GREEK W I N E DELIGH T Nestled amongst the slopes of Epanomi, just outside Thessaloniki, Nicholas Chrisostomou enjoys a sophisticated

Greek wine experience at one of the country’s top vineyards: KTIMA GEROVASSILIOU.

46 TRA NQUILITY

6 0 W I N A LU X U RY,

TWO - CENTRE SRI L A N K A N VA C A T I O N

IN CENTRAL TOK YO

One lucky reader of The Cultured Traveller will win

When Hoshino Resorts opened an 84-room luxury ryokan

dinner at celebrity chef Dharshan Munidasa’s Kaema

property slap bang in the middle of the Japanese capital’s

Sutra restaurant. Plus, three nights at Shangri-La’s

frenetic Otemachi financial district, it turned the typical

Hambantota Golf Resort & Spa in the south of the

Tokyo city break on its head. The Cultured Traveller checks-in.

island, including a riverboat safari.

two nights at Shangri-La Hotel, Colombo including

➸

GHOULISH REVELLERS dressed in elaborate costumes – young, old and some even beautiful – creep through the streets of Oaxaca City, 280 miles south-east of the Mexican capital, during the ancient, ritualistic Day of the Dead parade. ➤ 1 November 2020

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

128 CONTENTS 10 C O N T R I B U T O R S

104

146

12 EDI T OR’ S LET T ER 14 N E W S F L A S H

Browse our round-up of the most fascinating cultural experiences happening around the world in the next three months, including tribal male beauty parade CURE SALÉE in the Agadez region of northeast Niger; the bizarre PHUKET VEGETARIAN FESTIVAL in Thailand; Bacolod’s worldfamous MASSKARA celebrations; New York’s annual VILLAGE HALLOWEEN PARADE; India’s biggest annual celebration, DIWALI; the Philippines’ HIGANTES FESTIVAL led by towering papier-mâché giants, and Laos’ THAT LUANG FESTIVAL in Vientiane.

stunning, historic, art-led RAFFLES EUROPEJSKI WARSAW in the heart of the Polish capital; slick boutique hotel THE MERCHANT HOUSE adjacent to vibrant Bab el-Bahrain souk in Manama, and sprawling vacation resort and gourmet destination W DUBAI – THE PALM in the UAE.

70 SUITE ENVY

A collection of nine historic buildings skillfully sewn together, the oldest of which dates back to the 13th Century, WIDDER HOTEL, located in the heart of Zürich’s old town, is a sophisticated fusion of the old and the new. Nicholas Chrisostomou road tests Widder’s crowning hospitality glory, the hotel’s Penthouse Suite.

78 FIVE MINUTE S WITH J A S P E R PÄ Ä K K Ö N E N

2 8 R E ST YOU R H E A D

As the world’s cities tentatively begin to reopen, The Cultured Traveller checks into two dozen standout metropolitan hotels, including the uber-cool FONTENAY on the edge of Lake Alster in Hamburg; divine 18th century VERRIDE PALÁCIO located in Lisbon’s hipster Chiado quarter; playful 25HOURS HOTEL TERMINUS NORD in Paris’ exuberant 10th arrondissement;

Finland’s most famous actor fly-fishes in far flung destinations, is driven to rid the planet of environmentally damaging dams and stars in Spike Lee’s latest movie, Da 5 Bloods.

8 1 B O A R D I N G PA S S

Affectionately known as the Queen of the Skies, the double-decker plane with the humped fuselage is one of aviation’s

70 most recognisable aircraft. As many of the world’s carriers retire their fleets of BOEING 747s, The Cultured Traveller looks back at more than five decades of the game changing jumbo jet.

88 NO SHOE S REQUIRED

Dawn Gibson follows in the footsteps of The Beatles to RISHIKESH, on the banks of the Ganges, to get a deeper cultural understanding of northern India and find out whether visiting the selfproclaimed yoga capital of the world is the ultimate tonic for the soul.

9 6 HO S P I TA L I T Y

The Cultured Traveller sits down with renowned Bangkok-based hotel designer BILL BENSLEY, who has masterminded more than two hundred one-of-a-kind luxury properties in dozens of countries and injected fun, glamour and storytelling back into the hospitality industry.

10 4 S P O T L I G H T

Located almost 400 kilometres from the capital of Colombo in the east of the island, Alex Benasuli ventures to remote GAL OYA NATIONAL PARK. A sprawling, untamed natural habitat teeming with elephants, leopards and birds, it is one of Sri Lanka’s last unspoilt frontiers to open up to adventure tourism.

12 8 TA S T E & S I P R E V I E W

It was more than thirty years ago that Nobuyuki Matsuhisa opened his first eatery in Beverly Hills. Today, the Nobu name is burnished on more than forty restaurants across the globe. Crowning iconic Royal Monceau’s food and beverage offerings, MATSUHISA PARIS serves Joe Mortimer a dining experience that tantalises all of his senses.

13 8 I S TA N BU L’ S FOOD SCENE In modern-day Istanbul, the bustling streets are a theatre of culinary creativity and dining out is a fundamental part of the country’s national identity. To get an appreciation of the nuances of Turkish cuisine, Joe Mortimer suggests walking the streets of Istanbul and following your nose.

14 5 L I T T L E B L A C K B O O K Web addresses for everywhere mentioned in the Sixth Anniversary Edition of The Cultured Traveller.

14 6 T R AV E L T I P S FROM THE TOP Make-up artist ADAM DE CRUZ takes time out of his hectic schedule, attending to the faces of supermodels and actresses across the globe, to give his tips to keep your skin looking its best while hurtling through the sky at 30,000 feet.

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T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

N I C H O L AS C H R I S O STO M O U

JOE MORT I M E R ➤ ISTANBUL’S FOOD SCENE

CONTRIBUTORS

A UK-based travel writer and editor who specialises in luxury travel and high-end hospitality, and former editor of Destinations of the World News in Dubai, Joe currently contributes to titles including National Geographic Traveler, Robb Report and TTG Luxury, as well as a collection of prestigious inflight and hotel magazines.

P U B L I S H E R C O C O L AT T É DESIGN STUART MANNING EDITORIAL JEMIMA THOMPSON PICTURES STELLA ALEVIZAKI THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS

Alex Benasuli, Joe Mortimer, Dawn Gibson WITH THANKS TO

Sofia Wilkinson-Steel, Roman Migliorato Lee Sutton, Nikita Harrison

The Cultured Traveller magazine is published by Coco Latté Advertising and sponsorship enquiries: ads@theculturedtraveller.com Editorial enquiries words@theculturedtraveller.com Subscription enquiries subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com

D AW N G I B S O N ➤ RISHIKESH, INDIA

Passionate about travel, fashion, food, culture and the arts, Dawn was raised in Australia and is now UK-based. She has visited more than thirty countries and lived in three. A former magazine editor and senior newspaper journalist, Dawn currently contributes to several international publications.

T H E C U L T U R E D T R AV E L L E R ➤ ISSUE 31 © 2020 Coco Latté. All rights reserved Reproduction in part or in whole of any part of this magazine is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of its respective contributors and writers and are not necessarily shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff. The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles, photographs or other materials submitted.

Read the digital version of Issue 31 of The Cultured Traveller magazine online at

➤ www.issuu.com/theculturedtraveller/docs/31

ALEX BENASU LI ➤ GAL OYA, SRI LANK A

London-based Alex has been globetrotting his whole life. He has explored Europe, Asia and Africa, as well as North and South America intimately. As passionate on a highbrow urban cultural break as he is on an off-the-beaten-track adventure, Alex uses travel to explore his love of history, design, nature and wellness.

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

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T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R 3-6 KENRICK PLACE, LO N D O N W 1 U 6 H D, U K

EDITOR’ S LET TER

From left to right: Widder Hotel, Zürich; Gal Oya National Park, Sri Lanka; Rankin; Rishikesh, India

THESE ARE UNDOUBTEDLY strange times for travel. With concepts such as social distancing and self-isolation part of the so-called ‘new normal’ and governments changing regulations at impossibly short notice, it’s understandable that many prefer to defer their travel plans for 2020. I hear you. But for those who do take the plunge and book that flight, sipping a glass of white while gazing over a serene lake or a warm sea will be a much more profound experience than it was before Covid-19 reared its destructive head. For travelling today is a treat and a freedom that we can appreciate more than ever. After the UK lockdown eased, I spent a week in Switzerland and enjoyed every second of being abroad. Yes, my first flight after being grounded for three months was slightly more challenging than usual. But once you get into the swing of checking the immigration regulations of the country you plan to visit and adapting to the new rules for flying, travelling in the time of Covid is something that can be enjoyed safely and relatively easily. In this Sixth Anniversary Edition of The Cultured Traveller we tempt you to rediscover the joys of landing in a place you’ve never visited before, to taste new foods, see new sights and experience different cultures. As the world’s cities tentatively begin to reopen, The Cultured Traveller checks into two dozen standout metropolitan hotels, including a number which are architecturally stunning

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

(p28). Alex Benasuli explores a wild corner of Sri Lanka which only relatively recently openedup to tourism (p106), while Dawn Gibson discovers her inner self in the Indian yoga town of Rishikesh (p90). Joe Mortimer treads the streets of Istanbul and follows his nose to culinary delights (p140), while I unpack in a swish penthouse suite atop a hotel which embodies 700 years of history (p72). And we chat with celebrated British photographer Rankin, Finland’s most famous actor Jasper Pääkkönen and flamboyant hotel designer Bill Bensley. Travelling is all about adapting to new places and fitting into new environments. Covid may have changed the travel landscape, but the world is still a beautiful place waiting to be explored. We all just need to be more mindful than ever about our impact on the places we visit and the people we encounter. Perhaps, to some extent, Covid will make better travellers of all of us.

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief

newsflash news

G L O B A L F E S T I VA L S A N D C U L T U R A L EVENTS IN THE COMING MONTHS

CUR E SALÉE EVERY MID-LATE SEPTEMBER, towards the end of the rainy season, Saharan clans gather at the salt flats and pools near the tiny West African town of In-gall, in the Agadez region of northeast Niger, to refresh their herds and prepare for the trip south so they can survive the dry season. But, before heading south, tens of thousands of nomads converge on In-Gall to celebrate Cure Salée – an annual gathering that serves as a harvest festival, marketplace and tribal gathering and, most importantly, a spectacular male beauty parade. Here the roles are reversed, since it is the men who paint their faces, don ceremonial costumes and sing and dance to impress the female judges, in an effort to be named the most attractive man of their clan. The talent portion of the show, known as Yaake, is akin to line dancing, with men swaying shoulder-to-shoulder, singing and chanting in a hypnotic fashion. Fueled by a tea made of fermented bark, rumored to have a hallucinogenic effect, enables them to dance wildly, often non-stop, for hours on end. 10–20 September 2020

O NA M THE SLENDER INDIAN COASTAL STATE of Kerala is defined by its varied and layered landscape, including hundreds of kilometres of glorious coastline and beaches fringed by the Arabian Sea. Having been exposed to so many foreign influences, Kerala is a world away from the rest of India with a unique culture and diverse religious traditions. According to popular legend, Onam harvest festival is celebrated to welcome King Mahabali, whose spirit is said to visit Kerala at the beginning of Chingam, the first month of the Hindu Malayalam

calendar. This is a time when, after three months of heavy rains, the skies become clear and blue again, forests turn a lush deep green, lakes and rivers overflow and lotuses and lilies are in full bloom. People put flower mats in front of their houses to welcome the king, reap the harvest, celebrate and generally rejoice. Traditional activities during Onam are centered around worshipping, music, dancing, sports and, above all else, eating good food. The most impressive part of the festival is a grand, nine-course feast called Onasadya consisting of more than a dozen dishes. 2 September 2020 ➤ www.onamfestival.org

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

BFI LON DON FILM FEST IVAL THE 2020 BFI LONDON FILM FESTIVAL will be the first ever outing of the festival to be widely accessible across the UK, with 50 virtual premieres available to be enjoyed at home, giving film lovers a unique opportunity to connect and be immersed in both live and digital screenings across the festival’s 12 days. Adapting to the extraordinary challenges of this year, the LFF will offer audiences an opportunity to see the best new cinema from around the world within the same festival framework including fiction, documentary, animation, artists’ moving image, and restored classics from the world’s archives. Every film will be presented with an intro or Q&A and the programme will also include a range of free-to-access additional works and events to include an international short film programme, screen talks with major filmmakers and actors, salons and roundtables and a brand new virtual exhibition of XR and immersive art. 7–18 October 2020 ➤ www.bfi.org.uk/lff

A N I M AS Y R O S 1 3 DESPITE BEING ONE OF THE SMALLEST CYCLADIC ISLANDS, Syros’ international animation festival is the largest of its kind in Greece and one of the twenty most important globally. Animasyros is wholly dedicated to Europe’s animation narrative. Held in Hermoupolis, the capital of the Cycladic islands, Animasyros comprises special screenings; tributes to international animation festivals, artists and studios; media literacy activities for children, youngsters and adults; parties and numerous parallel events. This year –

the festival’s thirteenth annual outing – Animasyros welcomes animation scenes from the Czech Republic and Mexico, while the annual thematic priority, under the title “Animation Is Great!” is dedicated to Great Britain. Dozens of animated films will also be screened, plus the festival features three separate international competition sections, for professional, student and feature films. Animasyros is free and takes place at the imposing Apollo Theatre and other locations within the beautiful neoclassical town of Hermoupolis. 23–27 September 2020 ➤ www.animasyros.gr

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

A LBA I N T ER N ATION AL W HITE TR UFFLE FA I R

NEW Y O R K C I T Y WINE & FOOD FES TI VAL BORN IN 2007 AS A ONE-NIGHTER CALLED SWEET, this year’s New York City Wine and Food Festival (NYCWFF) will be its thirteenth, annual outing and whilst the festival may look and feel different, its commitment is unchanged – to continue the celebration of the NYC restaurant and bar community and fight to end world hunger. For four days every autumn culinary giants, celebrity chefs, mixologists, vintners and foodies from around the globe unite to eat and drink with 100% of the festival’s proceeds going to hunger relief organisations Food Bank For New York City and No Kid Hungry. Offering a diverse range of dishes and culinary experiences at a broad range of price points across New York City, including intimate dinners with world-renowned chefs, late night parties, hands-on classes, educational seminars and wine tastings, NYCWFF provides passionate gourmands with something for every palate. 8–11 October 2020 ➤ www.nycwff.org

EVERY YEAR, THE PRETTY TOWN OF ALBA – nestled in the Piedmont region of northern Italy, about an hour by car from Turin – hosts the annual Alba International White Truffle Fair to coincide with the late autumn harvest period of Tartufo bianco di Alba. Known as the town of a hundred medieval towers, Alba’s old centre is beautifully preserved. Strolling its streets and piazzas, with a gelato in hand, is one of life’s great pleasures. As the truffle fair approaches, international chefs, gastronomy buffs, oenophiles and travelling foodies all descend upon Alba to sample the decadent, aromatic and wildly exclusive white prizes, which are characterised by their irregular shape, due to the unevenness of the soil in which they grow. During the fair, the little unattractive mushrooms – sniffed out by trained dogs and pigs – are cleaned, meticulously preserved and shaved sparingly over pasta, risotto, grilled vegetables and just about everything else. 10 October–8 December 2020 ➤ www.fieradeltartufo.org

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

FR AN K FURT BOOK FAIR THE FRANKFURT BOOK FAIR IS FIRMLY ESTABLISHED as one of the most important events in the global literary calendar. Thousands of publishers, authors, retailers, illustrators, librarians, self-publishers and multimedia suppliers from around the globe converge annually on the German powerhouse city to exchange information, launch books and negotiate the sale of international publishing rights. For this year, the festival’s seventysecond outing, Frankfurter Buchmesse 2020 has supplemented its usual offerings with a number of virtual presentations, with digital events acting as multi-media stages for exhibitors, authors and creative artists, bringing the international publishing industry and creative scenes together in a virtual space. BOOKFEST will showcase bestseller readings and poetry slams to roundtable talks and performances. Meanwhile, THE ARTS+ business festival, aimed at the cultural and creative sectors, runs side-by-side with the book fair and offers top-notch speakers, technology innovations, creative presentations and networking events. 14–18 October 2020 ➤ www.buchmesse.de

NEWSFLASH

PHU K E T V E G E TA R I A N FESTIVAL WHILE THE ORIGINS OF THIS FESTIVAL are a little fuzzy, the most agreed-upon version of events is that a wandering Chinese opera company fell ill en mass with Malaria while performing in Phuket. In an attempt to beat the disease, the group adopted a strict vegetarian diet and prayed intensely to the nine emperor gods for purification of their bodies and minds to be cured. Surprisingly, the group made a miraculous and complete recovery and celebrated by originating a festival to honour

the gods. Thus, Phuket’s Vegetarian Festival was born. Now an annual happening attended by thousands, the festival features a number of rituals, including participants performing ritualised mutilation upon themselves and one another, without anaesthetic but while under a trance-like state, including piercing their mouths, cheeks, ears and arms with fishhooks, knives, razor blades and bamboo poles in dramatic fashion. Offerings of food and drink are also made to the gods in temples throughout the city. 16–25 October 2020 ➤ www.phuket.com

MASSK AR A KNOWN AS THE ‘CITY OF SMILES’, Bacolod’s world-famous MassKara festival, celebrating its fortieth anniversary this year, is a popular celebration that traces its roots back to 1980 when it was introduced as a way to boost morale after poor sugarcane sales and a tragedy that took the lives of 700 people many of whom were from Bacolod. Since then, this vibrant and highly coloured festival has become a much revered annual happening. Named from a combination of the English word mass and the Spanish word kara meaning face, MassKara is recognised by the ornate smiling masks worn by thousands of revellers performing in the streets. Spectators are also treated to food festivals, live music, street dance competitions and a parade of illuminated floats and giant puppets. Sports events, pageants and street parties also feature during the main few days of MassKara, but what makes this festival particularly standout is the genuine warmth and friendliness of the welcoming locals. 25 October 2020 ➤ www.lovepilipinas.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

CU R E S A L É E

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MEN WITH PAINTED FACES and wearing ceremonial costumes line-up in the West African town of In-gall, in the Agadez region of northeast Niger, in an effort to be named the most attractive man of their clan during the annual Cure Salée gathering. ➤ 10–20 September 2020

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

NEWSFLASH

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

VILLAGE H ALLOWEEN PAR A DE A VAST AND VIBRANT EVENT which sees thousands of costumed party-goers parade through the streets of New York, it would take more than a virus pandemic to stop the city’s annual Village Halloween Parade which was founded in 1974 by mask-maker and puppeteer Ralph Lee. This year’s ghouls will be led by master puppeteers Alex Kahn and Sophia Michahelles, together with hundreds of puppets, dozens of bands of

PI RATES W E E K WHILE THE CAYMANS ARE RENOWNED for being the most notorious tax haven on earth, once a year the pirates take over its three stunning islands. So, if you enjoy the revelry of swashbuckling combined with a western Caribbean climate, Pirates Week is undoubtedly the best time for you to visit this beautiful part of the world. Every November, pirates run amok throughout the islands in this family-friendly festival of Cayman culture and pirate folklore that brings to life the famous Pirates of the Caribbean, complete with simulated pirate invasions, parades and fireworks displays, street dances, costume contests, parties and fancy dressed revellers at the end of every gangplank. While festivities take place on Cayman Brac (30 Oct–1 Nov) and Little Cayman (13–15 Nov), the main event happens on Grand Cayman (5–14 Nov) where more than a week of fun will mark Pirates Week’s forty third year. Immediately following Grand Cayman’s festivities, special “District Days” celebrate the various aspects that make these islands so unique. 30 October–15 November 2020

➤ www.piratesweekfestival.com

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

varying musical styles, dancers, circus performers and floats, all watched by a multitude of spectators. While every year has its theme, any costume is welcome and is indeed a must to participate. USD 25 buys you into the themed costume section, including a secret entry point for early admission, no queues, a special DJ soundtrack for an in-parade party and the chance to meet other crazy costumed fiends! 31 October 2020 ➤ www.halloween-nyc.com

NEWSFLASH

DÍA DE LOS M U ERT O S NESTLED IN A Y-SHAPED VALLEY in the Sierra Madre mountain range, 280 miles south-east of the capital, Oaxaca City has a rich indigenous history and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. And, every November, Oaxaca City is probably the best place on the planet to experience 3-day 3,000-year-old Día de los Muertos, which dates back to pre-Colombian times. During these 72-hours, the dead are honoured and their souls welcomed home as a blessing, while images abound of animated calaveras skeletons which were invented by 19th century printmaker Jose Guadalupe Posada and popularised by artist Diego Rivera. 30th October is a day of preparation, when the women clean the house and get food ready while the men build clay altars. Día de los Angelitios (Day of the Little Angels) on 31st October is dedicated to children. The main event on 1st November – Día de los Muertos – is a more adult affair with bigger and more elaborate costumes, more complex rituals, spicier foods and plenty of tequila. 1 November 2020

DIWALI INDIAN FESTIVALS FORM AN INTEGRAL PART of the nation’s culture and are at the heart of people’s day-to-day lives. The country’s biggest annual celebration – commonly referred to as The Festival of Lights – is an ancient five-day festival celebrated on the 15th day of the Hindu month of Kartika. It marks the victory of light over darkness, hope over despair and the freedom of Guru Hargobind Ji from imprisonment in 1619 by Mughal Emperor Jahangir who at the same time

released 52 political prisoners from Gwalior Fort. Hence, Diwali is the cause for much reverence and good cheer. An important tradition in India, participants clean their homes before the festival and celebrate with friends and family by sharing food and exchanging gifts. Houses are festooned with electric lights. At night, candles, lamps, torches and fireworks are lit, providing a spectacular display of light that symbolises the awareness of inner light and the triumph of good over evil. 14 November 2020

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

M A S S KAR A

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BRIGHTLY DRESSED LOCALS dance and parade through the streets of Bacolod, on the northwest coast of Negros Island in the Philippines, during the city’s colourful annual MassKara festival. ➤ 25 October 2020

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

NEWSFLASH

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

PU S H KAR CA M EL FA I R IN THE AJMER REGION of the northeastern Indian state of Rajasthan, the somewhat sleepy lakeside town of Pushkar which borders the Thar Desert, springs to life every year for a unique and incredibly colourful camel fair which coincides with the religious festival of Kartik Purnima. While the festival sees thousands of devotees bathe in Pushkar Lake on the pageant’s last day, close to 50,000 camels are trimmed, coiffured and decorated in order to be entered into beauty contests and raced. Adorned with silver bells and bangles around their hoofs and embellished with all manner of vibrant adornments, they are paraded past the golden sand dunes to an excited crowd and intense scrutinisation and judging. Aside from the thousands of camels also traded during the course of the fair, other livestock are haggled over, bought and sold, as well as local textiles, arts and crafts, saddles, jewellery and a variety of camel finery and embellishments. 22–30 November 2020

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

H IGAN TES FESTIVAL ARGUABLY THE ARTS CAPITAL of the Philippines, as well as being the site of the Angono Petroglyphs (the country’s oldest known work of art), the artistic town of Angono has continuously attracted art lovers from across the nation, not to mention globally. The town comes alive every year during Higantes, when towering papier-mâché giants (designed to express a person’s character or a unique idea and painted in vibrant colours) parade through

the streets, much to the joy of vivacious crowds. According to locals, this practice began when locals in Angono created a dummy to portray a mean landlord who was best recognized by his foul mannerisms and imposing height. For globetrotters visiting Angono, a detour to the Blanco Family museum gives an insight to the origins of this fascinating festival, including a large collection of giant higantes created by renowned higante designer Argana Tori. 22–23 November 2020

NEWSFLASH

L O PBU R I M O N K E Y B AN Q UET NORTH OF BANGKOK in central Thailand’s provincial capital of Lopburi, around the same time as the Americans celebrate Thanksgiving, the last Sunday of November is reserved for the Lopburi Monkey Banquet. In this part of the world, countless monkeys have adapted to life in an urban environment and become an inherent part of the local culture. Despite their pick-pocketing tendencies and unpredictable attitudes, these fellow primates

have free reign of the metropolis and are welcome to enter public buildings and traverse roads just like any other citizen. And, once a year, the world’s wildest dinner party is held in honour of the city’s macaque monkeys at Prang Sam Yot, a historic Khmer temple. As you can imagine, the sight of some three thousand macaques tucking into a lavish feast – which includes tons of fresh produce, rice, ice cream and other tasty monkey treats – is quite a spectacle. 28–29 November 2020

TH AT LUANG FESTIVAL THE SOUTHEAST ASIAN COUNTRY of Laos boasts literally hundreds of Buddhist monasteries, temples and stupas in just about every city. Located on the north-eastern bank of the Mekong, Vientiane’s relaxed atmosphere is something of a rarity amongst the world’s capitals. Its grand stupa, Pha That Luang (pictured), was built over an ancient stupa in the 16th century by King Setthathirath, when he moved the capital. It has since become the national symbol of Laos and is profoundly revered by all its countryfolk. Once a year for three days, That Luang stupa is the focus of a three-day religious festival celebrated at full moon in November, beginning with a pre-dawn gathering of thousands of pilgrims from Laos and Thailand who listen to prayers and sermons chanted by hundreds of monks all representing Lao wats. There follows a grand procession to pay homage to Lady Si Meuang, who was crushed to death as the city’s foundation pillar was about to be planted. The procession ends with a giant firework display. 30 November 2020 ➤ www.tourismlaos.org

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PU S H KAR CA M EL FA I R

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A HIGHLY COIFFURED CAMEL waits with its handler to be paraded past judges at the annual camel fair in Pushkar, a small town bordering the Thar Desert in the northeastern Indian state of Rajasthan. ➤ 22–30 November 2020

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

NEWSFLASH

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

CIT Y SPECIA L

rest your AS THE

WORLD’S CITIES T EN TAT I V ELY BEGIN TO REOPEN, T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R CHECK S INTO T WO DOZEN STA NDOUT METROPOLITA N HOTELS ACROSS THE PLANET

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

The Long Bar at Raffles Europejski Warsaw, Poland

head

➤ H A M B U R G ➤ L I S B O N ➤ PA R I S ➤ WA R S AW ➤ B E R L I N ➤ LONDON ➤ BARCELONA ➤ AMSTERDAM ➤ MANAMA ➤ DUBA I ➤ DELHI ➤ BA NGKOK ➤ TOKYO ➤ SH A NGH A I ➤ B E I J I N G ➤ S H E N Z H E N ➤ S Y D N E Y ➤ S A LVA D O R ➤ RIO DE JA NEIRO ➤ GR A NA DA ➤ NEW YORK ➤ S A N F R A NC I S C O ➤ WA S H I NG T ON ➤ DET R OI T 29

WELCOME TO LAKESIDE LUXURY THE FONTENAY is a reflection of modern Hamburg - an homage to Germanyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest waterfront city. The new luxury hotel is located

on the tranquil banks of Alster Lake in the heart of the city. The fascinating, sculpture-like architecture mirrors the fluid lines of the lake and lush parkland, creating the perfect balance between nature and urbanity. Designed as an ultimate urban escape, THE FONTENAY epitomizes pure lakeside luxury while offering a contemporary and cosmopolitan way of life.

Fontenay 10 | D-20354 Hamburg | Germany Tel: +49 (0)40 605 6 605-0 | info@thefontenay.com | www.thefontenay.com

E U R O P E

H AMBU RG ➤ GERM AN Y

T H E F O N T E N AY

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AS THE RICHEST METROPOLITAN CENTRE in one of the world’s wealthiest countries, Hamburg oozes a sense of confidence and success. Three years ago, the opening of the Herzog & de Meuron-designed Elbphilharmonie concert hall drew the world’s attention to the German port city – a maritime-meets-modern juxtaposition architectural marvel of centuries-old warehouses and sleek steel and glass. The following year, the city’s first brand new luxury hotel to open in decades was unveiled in the elegant form of The Fontenay, designed by renowned local architect Jan Störmer. With its bold and bright contemporary design, curvy facades and idyllic lakeside location, The Fontenay began making waves as soon as it started coming out of the ground. Once completed, it soon

became an icon of luxury lakeside hospitality. Covered in white porcelain tiles that echo the surface of adjacent Lake Alster and fashioned as a reflection of modern Hamburg, the hotel seamlessly combines urban nature with a cosmopolitan way of life and stunning, sculptural architecture that ensures every interior is flooded with natural light. The wow factor continues inside where guests are welcomed by a show-stopping 27-metre-high glass atrium, before unpacking in one of 131 curved-walled guest rooms. The hotel’s unique design and near absence of straight lines meant that literally every piece of furniture had to be custom made. Floor-to-ceiling windows amplify the sense of space, while private balconies blur the boundaries between inside and outside for a very special stay experience. ➤ www.thefontenay.de

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L ISBON ➤ P ORT UGA L

V E R R I D E PA L Á C I O S A N TA C ATA R I N A

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IN RECENT YEARS, Lisbon has emerged as the weekend destination atop many a discerning traveller’s list, the city’s charismatic mix of Baroque and 19th century buildings and scenic bay forming a large part of the Portuguese capital’s allure. Located in the city’s hipster Chiado quarter and straddling two distinct districts from its perch on the crest of hilltop Santa Catarina (famous for its views over Lisbon’s red roofs and the Atlantic), handsome, painstakingly restored four-storey 18th century Verride Palace houses 18 luxe rooms including two sumptuous suites. All are lavishly adorned with original rococo stucco work and fine furnishings, wrapped in a muted palate of light browns and greys and lined with raw linens and pale silks. In skillfully and meticulously restoring the palace’s Pombalino interiors, architect Teresa Nunes da Ponte walked a fine line between retaining the ancient but still beautiful bones of the

building, whilst injecting a sophisticated yet edgy modernity. The result is truly breathtaking and nothing short of a visual treat. Sumptuous oversized beds are dressed in 800-thread-count Egyptian cotton sheets. Bathrooms are a minimalist’s dream, executed in marble and limestone, with the exception of the grand Queen’s Suite, where hand-painted tiles surround a stark, white, oversized oval bathtub. Original coffered wooden ceilings and Portuguese and Greek marble in the public spaces have all been lovingly restored. A graceful, spiral, wrought-iron staircase twirls upwards throughout the building’s old limestone walls, linking all floors of this delightful revitalised palace. And two restaurants complete Verride’s palatial offering, with breakfast served poolside as Lisbon wakes below you. If sleeping like royalty and dining like a king appeals, book a stay at Verride Palace. ➤ www.verridesc.pt

PA R I S ➤ F R A N C E

25HOURS HOTEL TERMINUS NORD

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LOCATED IN THE HEART OF THE FRENCH CAPITAL, in Paris’ 10th arrondissement – directly opposite Gare du Nord station providing connections with Eurostar, Thalys, TGV and RER trains – playful 25hours’ Parisian outpost is a modern city hotel in the heart of the French capital and a veritable homage to the exuberant district in which it is located. Designed by prestigious Parisian firm Axel Schoenert Architects, assisted by art expert Alex Toledano, who wrote his graduation thesis on the people and history of the neighbourhood, the listed building was considerately redeveloped to reflect the lively spirit of the hotel’s bustling location and the colourful mix of cultures in the 10th arrondissement, particularly the African and Asian residents of the quarter. 237 guests rooms, punctuated by bold prints and an eclectic mix of style elements in invigorating colour schemes, provide relaxing and comfy retreats from the busy city. Personal objets d’arts reference the location’s diverse mix of cultures. Filigree lamps adorn the walls. Ceramic basins add a touch of the Orient to bathrooms. All rooms feature high-quality beds, air-conditioning, bluetooth speakers and free high-speed wi-fi connectivity. Some also boast wonderful views of the Gare du Nord, Montmartre and the inimitable Sacré Coeur. The best in the house are “Extra Large Plus” rooms which offer the most space and provide the perfect Paris pied à terre for two. Downstairs, NENI restaurant with its delectable Israeli-Mediterranean cuisine, and Sape Bar with its large counter and inviting leather armchairs, together form the pulsating heart of the hotel. Meanwhile, the ground-floor reception is reminiscent of a French kiosk and is open 25/7 to guests and locals alike for anything they may need, from grabbing a quality coffee to hiring one of hotel’s Schindelhauer bicycles. ➤ www.25hours-hotels.com

WA R S AW ➤ P O L A N D

RAFFLES EUROPEJSKI WA R S AW

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FIRST OPENED IN 1857 as Hotel Europejski and occupying a beautiful neo-Renaissance palace in the heart of the Polish capital, a huge collection of Polish modern art takes centre stage at this city landmark, culturally embedding Raffles Europejski Warsaw in its historic location. Back in the day, this grand edifice on Warsaw’s Royal Route was the favoured hangout of the city’s elite. Today, it is almost certainly the finest hotel in Poland and its 21st century grace, poise and sophistication have captivated Varsovian movers and shakers. The massive building’s classic exterior façades and modest columned portico give little clue as to the hotel’s glamorous interior. But, once inside, it is immediately obvious that Raffles Europejski Warsaw is a rather special property. An elegant street-level foyer, peppered with custom-designed furnishings, is where guests first encounter the hotel’s art collection. A few steps up and guests find themselves on a long Leon Tarasewicz striped carpet and beneath an undulating series of 160 large hand-blown glass pebbles by Filip Houdek, each of which signifies a year of the building’s life. It is these statement pieces which set the contemporary artistic tone that permeates the entire building and make an emphatic design declaration that is utterly unique in Poland. Four “Memory” Rooms, located in different parts of the hotel, celebrate the nation’s artistic diversity while preserving its heritage for generations to come. Art also features heavily in the hotel’s food and beverage venues,

which skillfully revive and marry old gastronomic traditions with new culinary trends. In Europejski Grill, warm interiors fashioned by Spanish designer Lázaro Rosa-Violán are juxtaposed with cuisine that is both loyal to Poland’s culinary heritage and re-imagined with a modern twist. Warsaw’s Long Bar is a swanky incarnation of the world-famous original Singaporean venue. Leather club chairs, original movie posters and moody lighting create a members’ clublike space in Humidor, for guests to kick-back with a cigar and sip quality spirits in louche luxury. And for those with a sweet tooth, Lourse Warszawa Patisserie pays homage to the illustrious history of the Europejski, when a café of the same name was a well-known haunt of artists, writers and poets of the day. Upstairs, Raffles butlers preside over 106 exquisitely appointed rooms including 40 decadent suites. Even entry-level rooms are very generously proportioned. Bathrooms are elegant and highly detailed and every room is hung with original artworks. Subterranea, a plethora of wellness, relaxation and revitalisation facilities provide an oasis in the centre of Warsaw and include a Raffles Spa with half a dozen treatment rooms, an indoor swimming pool, sauna, steam room, ice fountain, experience showers and a cutting-edge gym. Rarely does staying at a landmark grand dame property satisfy all the usual requirements of a five-star hotel but also feed the senses, please the eye and provoke the mind. Raffles Europejski Warsaw achieves all of this and more, with lashings of style and panache to boot. ➤ www.raffles.com/warsaw

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BERLIN ➤ GERM AN Y

P R O V O C AT E U R

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FAMED THE WORLD OVER for its diversity, never-ending nightclubs and anything-goes attitude, Berlin has busied itself with becoming one of the most stimulatingly colourful, creative and cultural cities in Europe since the fall of its world-renowned wall. It is a city that truly offers something for everyone and is an infamous hub for hedonists and hipsters, where parties can go on for days rather than hours and all manner of sexual goings-on within the walls of some of its establishments is tantamount to normal. In the midst of this shamelessly sensual mélange, to the west of the centre, a little farther out than the usual West Berlin hubs of Wittenbergplatz and Zoologischer Garten, lies flamboyant boutique 58room Provocateur. A hotel, restaurant and club opened in February 2017, Provocateur was fashioned by Amsterdam-based hotshot Israeli interior designer Saar Zafrir, who is the fêted name behind a number of Europe’s most talked about properties. Designed to push buttons and encourage guests to push their boundaries, the hotel’s ethos is to be provocative and explorational, catering to the up-all-night and sleep-all-day traits in both hotel guests and nightlife enthusiasts alike. What was once a residential property has been given a fun and seductive makeover by Zafrir that’s characterised by the bold and lavish use of reds, golds and blues, married with sensual fabrics and decadent furnishings. The result is sultry and seductive rooms in four categories which all feature slightly erotic interiors of red walls, Asianstyle wardrobes, minibars that resemble actual bars and blacktiled bathrooms with high-end showers and heavy ceramic sinks with brass fittings. Every room has a “provocateur mode” allowing guests to set the mood and drift to a different world as the room’s lights dim, seductive tunes entertain the ears and video art plays, all designed to encourage you to stay in bed or linger longer with your lover.

➤ www.provocateur-hotel.com

LONDON ➤ UK

KETNER’S TOW N H O U S E

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THE SOHO RESTAURANT FOUNDED IN 1867 by a man once thought to be a former chef of Napoleon III, has been reborn as an affordably glamorous hotel courtesy of Soho House Group – the private members club which backs onto Kettner’s. In its heyday, it is said that Auguste Kettner’s establishment was the location of trysts between Edward VII and actress Lillie Langtry, who were able to rendezvous in secret courtesy of a tunnel network between the restaurant and Palace Theatre across the road. Oscar Wilde was a Kettner’s regular, as was Agatha Christie. In restoring and enhancing the beautiful building’s many listed features, the upstairs dining rooms (which apparently saw much naughtiness in the past!), were transformed into 33 luxe bedrooms which deftly mix Frenchinspired touches with William Morris headboards. Heavy on pattern and texture, they retain many original features including Georgian fireplaces and wooden floorboards. The room to book is the first floor Grade II-listed Jacobean Suite, which not only boasts a spacious art nouveau-decorated living and dining area, but also a large freestanding copper bath and its own private entrance on Greek Street. Downstairs, the creamy, delicate plasterwork, listed moldings and original mirrors of the restaurant and two bars have been returned to their former glory, thankfully without losing Kettner’s slightly naughty past. Even the mosaic floor in the champagne bar was painstakingly restored. Whilst no tunnels were discovered during the building’s renovation, arranging a discreet tête-à-tête at today’s Kettner’s is infinitely easier than it was 150 years ago, and the Soho institution that first brought French cuisine to London has embarked upon another interesting chapter in its long and colourful history. ➤ www.kettnerstownhouse.com

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B A R C E L O N A ➤ S PA I N

SIR VICTOR

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CAPTURING THE HEARTS OF DISCERNING TRAVELLERS with its thoughtfully curated, one-of-a-kind hospitality experiences, positioned in prime, European city-centre locations, Sir Hotels group is slowly but steadily expanding its portfolio. Its Barcelona outpost, Sir Victor, was formerly Hotel Omm and is set just off of the grand shopping boulevard of Passeig de Gràcia, a stone’s throw from Gaudí’s Casa Milà and close to the Avinguda Diagonal, home to many of the Catalonian capital’s designer boutiques. Famous for its unique limestone façade designed by Catalan architect Juli Capella, which orientates the windows in such a way as to allow maximum sunlight in yet maintain the privacy of hotel guests, the Omm was innovative in Barcelona when it first opened in 2004. Sir Victor has gone some way to maintaining this uniqueness. Tel Aviv-based designers Baranowitz + Kronenburg – renowned for their clever design of W Amsterdam hotel across two historic

buildings – were engaged by Sir Hotels to work their architectural magic on the property’s multifaceted ground floor space. The result is a journey through contrasting landscapes, inspired by the seaside and the mountains, which engages when you first enter the building’s bright and playful lobby and changes as you delve deeper into the hotel, where earthier tones create a more intimate and intriguing ambiance. Upstairs, 91 rooms and suites ooze understated grooviness and are laden with the kind of uber-cool mid-century modern designer trappings that one expects of a hotel with such style-led credentials, including a drinks trolley for whipping-up a cheeky pre-dinner cocktail, and a selection of booked inspired by Catalan author Victor Català, after which the hotel is named. Crowning Sir Victor is a secluded rooftop bar, restaurant and pool, where guests swim, eat and sip whilst drinking in captivating views of Gaudí’s Casa Milà and La Sagrada Familia to a backdrop of funky sounds provided by hip DJs. ➤ www.sirhotels.com

SOFITEL LEGEND THE GRAND AMSTERDAM FIVE-STAR LUXURY IN A UNIQUE HISTORICAL AMBIANCE Sotel Legend The Grand Amsterdam offers ve-star luxury in a unique historical ambiance. Furnished with French elegance and grandeur, the hotel welcomes a variety of visitors, from the trendy Amsterdam elite to famous international movie stars. In all of the rooms and suites (including butler service), the restaurants, the halls, and the beautiful inner garden, the heritage and luxury of this opulent landmark will charm all who visit. Over the course of the centuries, this exquisite Amsterdam landmark has been ripened and enriched by countless special events and, during the process, has also acquired tremendous culinary fame.

Chef de Cuisine Raoul Meuwese and his team invite guests to enjoy the varied selection of dishes available in our restaurant Bridges, in Oriole and on our awarded Garden Terrace. Our traditional

Dutch

brown

café,

The

Flying

Dutchman,

serves

a wide assortment of Dutch and local Amsterdam beers and local delicacies, while our Library ‘Or’ is the ideal place to order The Grand Afternoon Tea. The Sotel SPA is the ideal place to unwind; pamper yourself with a beauty treatment or relax in our hammam or steambath after having had a few laps in our pool.

Soﬁtel Legend The Grand Amsterdam - Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197 - 1012 EX Amsterdam T +31(0)20 555 31 11 - www.soﬁtel-legend-thegrand.com

AMSTERDAM ➤ NETHERLANDS

THE HENDRICK’S HOTEL

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NAMED AFTER MISCHIEVOUS PRINCE HENDRICK – a colourful character who married into the Dutch Royal family and whose love of women was well known – eccentric elegance exudes at this quirky 25-room hotel, located on the Prins Hendrikkade in Amsterdam city centre, a stone’s throw from Central Station. Housed within two 18th century buildings which are joined together internally but appear as separate houses to passers-by, the property was formerly occupied by Twentsche Bank. The buildings then fell into disrepair and were inhabited by squatters, until five years ago when the current owners were able to purchase the properties. In conjunction with Fusion Interiors, they then set about converting them into a funky hotel. The designers’ creative approach to the hotel’s decor and theming is what sets apart The Hendrick’s Hotel from Amsterdam’s other boutique properties. Individually styled guest rooms are themed around trade, travel and romance – all major influences in the world of Prince Hendrick. The lobby in styled as Prince Hendrick’s living room, complete with bookshelves brimming with eclectic antiques from the Prince’s personal collection. Ropes reimagined as light fittings and a huge yacht wheel hanging on the spiral staircase add a nautical feel to the proceedings, create a unique atmosphere and bring-to-life the Prince’s interesting and slightly playboyesque world. Whilst every bedroom is different, they are separated into eleven room types. “Royal” rooms feature ceilings with exposed beams and are decorated in silvery greys and royal blues with gold accents. Two have deep red freestanding baths. The Vault Suite is the hotel’s largest room and very much one-of-a-kind in Amsterdam – the characterful, open-plan space occupying the area that was once-upon-a-time a 17th century bank vault. Today, double-glazed windows and privacy curtains keep wondering eyes from seeing what goes on inside the suite. Even the hotel’s DND signs say that the guest inside is busy “having way too much fun”. The Hendrick’s Hotel is outwardly an establishment where one can enjoy both the cultural highs and naughty lows of the famed Dutch capital. But what goes on behind its closed doors is another story! ➤ www.thehendrickshotel.com

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

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A bijou onsite spa with a pair of treatment rooms restores weary travellers to a state of equilibrium using the finest aromatherapy oils and organic skincare products. On the mezzanine level, a carefully curated collection of hundreds of books lines the walls of the library, divided by armchairs which beg to be sat in and more artwork adorning the walls, including original works by Chagall and Matisse. The ground floor is home to a double-height rock-star lobby, reception area and café, its walls covered with huge statement works which set the tone for the entire, super-stylish property.

MANAMA ➤ BA HRAIN

HOSPITALITY GURU GORDON CAMPBELL GRAY has a distinct knack for knowing exactly how to showcase the best of a destination in properties he is responsible for conceptualising. This is almost certainly the result of Campbell Gray’s natural sense of style and fine eye for design, both of which seem attuned to the needs of discerning 21st century travellers, who care less for gimmicks and more for quality, functionality and good design all of which are evident at The Merchant House, located in the Bahraini capital city of Manama. Located adjacent to vibrant Bab el-Bahrain souk, close to the Old Customs House, the opening of the Kingdom’s first five-star deluxe boutique property last year came at a time when downtown Manama was being revived and a new generation of Bahrainis were looking for cool places to socialise. Indeed, within just a few months of opening, the hotel’s rooftop bar and restaurant, Indigo, was already attracting the city’s movers and shakers and soon became the go-to gathering spot for Bahrain’s most cultured set who feast on a broad menu of classic dishes, Mediterranean fare and Asian-fusion offerings. Slick service is the norm throughout The Merchant House. The hotel’s rooftop also boasts a small 24-hour gym, glass-sided lap pool and sun terrace - all perfectly formed and beautifully executed. Downstairs, 46 suites across seven floors are separated by wide corridors hung with wonderful original artworks that are lit like a gallery, making walking to one’s suite a visual pleasure. Every suite features an open-plan kitchenette and dining area, as well as a sitting room designed to appeal to both business and leisure travellers alike. Beds are dressed in the finest linens. Bathrooms are ergonomically designed and feature huge walk-in showers.

LE D T ID S M EA

THE MERCHANT HOUSE

➤ www.campbellgrayhotels.com

D U B A I ➤ UA E

W D U B A I – T H E PA L M

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LOCATED ON PALM JUMEIRAH – which has become a veritable hotbed of global culinary talent of late – iconic W Hotels’ resort on the palm is positioned on a long sandy stretch perfectly primed for water sports, jogging and strolling in the warm waters. With a somewhat futuristic, neon-illuminated exterior façade, massive five-storey atrium and a sprawling pool and party deck fringed by an inviting beach and the Arabian Sea, W Dubai - The Palm is a vacation resort, designer hotel, party pad and gourmet destination all rolled into one. And since pets under 20kg are also welcome, don’t be surprised to bump into a pooch or two during your stay. Onsite epicurean delights are offered in the form of playful, all-day diner LIV; very popular Torno Subito courtesy of celebrated

chef Massimo Bottura, and Akira Back for a modern take on Japanese cuisine with Korean influences, complete with views of Dubai’s glittering skyline. Upstairs, all 350 rooms and suites come with a terrace offering partial or full sea views, a W MixBar, sound systems and Bliss amenities. Rain showers and freestanding tubs are in the bedrooms and all accommodation elicits a fun and carefree vacation vibe. For sundowners, it’s hard to beat Latino-Miami-styled rooftop bar SoBe, which boasts spectacular 360° vistas and hot DJ talent. W Dubai - The Palm may be only 30 minutes from Dubai Airport (DXB) and 25 minutes from downtown, but staying there feels like being on the happening, glamorous riviera of a South American nation. ➤ www.wdubaithepalm.com

IA S A

A N DA Z D E L HI

➸ DELHI ➤ INDIA

THE VIBRANT AND COSMOPOLITAN CITY OF DELHI – the traditional and present-day capital of India – is regarded as the heartbeat of the diverse nation. A bustling and heady mix of new and old, holding onto centuries of traditions and heritage, it challenges stereotypes with modern technology, colourful nightlife, world class shopping and an emerging food and restaurant scene. Andaz’s motto, global in scale while local in perspective is evident in the unique ambience and philosophy of every Andaz property and the brand’s Delhi outpost doesn’t disappoint. On the contrary, Andaz Delhi truly reflects the vibrancy and energy of Delhi, its contemporary and pared back design aesthetic – complete with clever touches and chic detailing – perfectly illustrating the heritage of its diverse location and making the hotel itself a worthy destination. Upon arrival, hosts welcome guests with the story behind the book that sits in each of Andaz Delhi’s 401 rooms and suites: “401 Reasons to Fall in Love with Delhi”. Written by travel writer Fiona Caulfield, it is the hotel’s tribute to Delhi and every guest room is hung with its own original piece of artwork representing one of the reasons to fall in love with Delhi. Local inspirations are dotted throughout Andaz Delhi and are an intrinsic part of guests’ stays. Wooden floors, crisp white linen, thoughtfully positioned lighting, an oversized day bed, a generously proportioned desk and closets that resemble travel trunks from a bygone era make guest rooms feel like cool, loftstyled apartments. Large soundproofed windows, kitted-out with black-out blinds, offer arresting airport views. Andaz Delhi offers several dining and drinking options, each with its own unique ambience. Fashioned in the style of a

European food hall, AnnaMaya is a colourful option for all day dining. Meanwhile, live music, an inviting lounge and a sumptuous interior design scheme combine to make Hong Kong Club a unique, multi-level nightlife destination. For a more relaxed drink, Juniper – India’s first gin bar – is the perfect spot to socialise with friends and sample a home-infused gin. An onsite Andaz Spa with six treatment rooms offers innovative treatments, using an apothecary approach based on guests’ Chakra energies. A 24-hour fitness centre, pool and sundeck complete the hotel’s leisure offerings. A vibrant and lively part of the city’s hip scene, Andaz Delhi offers guests memorable stays that both embrace the energy and cultural diversity of Delhi and cleverly showcase the Indian capital’s inimitable spirit. ➤ www.delhi.andaz.hyatt.com

BANGKOK ➤ THAILAND

S O/ BA N G KO K

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DEFTLY JUXTAPOSING LUXURY FACILITIES with modern conveniences and attentive yet unobtrusive service, all seamlessly delivered in one purpose-built, fun-loving hospitality tower, SO/ Bangkok is the perfect place to unpack your cases for a city break in the Thai capital. The SO/ Bangkok experience begins at BKK airport, where one of the hotel’s leather-lined BMW 5-Series saloons or long wheelbase Mini Clubmans whisk guests in air-conditioned comfort through the teeming streets to the hotel. Located in a prime position on the corner of Sathorn and Rama IV Roads, on arrival at the hotel, suite guests and VIPs are whisked directly to the sophisticated 25th floor Christian Lacroix-designed Club Signature executive lounge to check-in at leisure over a refreshing cocktail. Here, premium guests also enjoy complimentary à la carte breakfast, high tea, evening cocktails and snacks. The hotel’s 237 themed guest rooms and suites have been thoughtfully designed around the natural elements of metal, wood, earth and water. Since each was conceptualised by a different artist, the design features vary between all four, providing guests with differing stay experiences. All feature dramatic floor-to-ceiling windows, expansive park and city views, over-sized tubs, walk-in showers, huge beds and every creature comfort one needs to handle a city as vibrant as Bangkok. Inspired by the Southeast Asian myth of the Himmapan Forest, the hotel’s SoSPA is a veritable urban retreat from non-stop metropolitan life, and the perfect place to take a few hours out to rebalance and cleanse your mind, body and spirit. On the same level as the spa, saunas, steam rooms, a wellequipped gym, a yoga studio, a 32-metre infinity pool and a large lawned garden complete the hotel’s array of leisure facilities. Gourmands are as well catered for as health enthusiasts at SO/ Bangkok by a range of F&B venues to suit every palette. On street level, a high-end coffee bar churns out some of the best lattés in the

city whilst gourmet Chocolab produces sweet treats for guests to indulge in. Guests can even sign up for a chocolate cooking class and make their own truffles to take home. Red Oven restaurant is set out like a street food market, while Park Society is a high-end modern fine dining venue. Crowning the property is HI-SO, the hotel’s jumping, split-level rooftop bar which boasts spectacular views over Lumpini Park towards the Bangkok cityscape beyond. The views from HI-SO never tire and it’s the perfect meeting place to start, end or spend the entire night. ➤ www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

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T O K Y O ➤ J A PA N

H O S H I N O YA TO K YO

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INTERNATIONAL TRAVELLERS GENERALLY VISIT TOKYO to zip around the city filling themselves with uni, see as much of the hectic Japanese capital as possible, shop ’til they drop and drink Japanese whisky, before leaving to a more rural part of the country to recover and unwind. But Hoshino Resorts turned the typical Tokyo city break on its head, by opening a 84-room luxury ryokan property, Hoshinoya Tokyo, located in a slick, 18-storey skyscraper slap bang in the middle of the frenetic Otemachi financial district. For the uninitiated, a ryokan is typically a traditional Japanese-style inn that offers an immersive cultural experience. Staying at a ryokan usually means sleeping on a futon on a tatami (straw mat) floor, bathing in a communal hot-spring bath and eating a multi-course kaiseki-style meal while wearing a kimono, all of which is highly recommended but rarely happens in a city centre. Hoshinoya took the best elements of a ryokan and repurposed them – in an utterly traditional style – for modern travellers visiting one of the world’s busiest cities. The result is one of the most peaceful urban hotels anywhere on the planet and a true urban escape. Even when the property is running at 100% occupancy you’ll rarely see or hear another guest. The entrance from the street is devoid of typical concierge desks, ringing phones or any commercial activity. In their place are an art installation and a quiet space where you’re encouraged to remove your shoes which the kimono-clad staff store inside bamboo lockers. Guests are expected to pad around barefoot, even in the privacy of your bedroom, which, whilst taking some getting used to (particularly after a day on the streets of Tokyo) soon feels surprisingly liberating and makes the whole building feel like home. Hoshinoya Tokyo’s main attraction, however, is its open-air onsen, the area’s first natural hot-spring bath, where women and men bathe in waters rich in therapeutic minerals, in separate rooftop spaces each open to the skies yet enclosed by towering walls. This free and liberating experience is both the ideal tonic to a busy day of sightseeing and the perfect prelude to a night out in the Japanese capital. ➤ www.hoshinoyatokyo.com

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SH A NGH A I ➤ C H I NA

THE MIDDLE HOUSE

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PART OF THE MIXED-USE DAZHONGLI DEVELOPMENT in the heart of Shanghai’s popular Jing’an district, the most recent addition to Swire Hotels’ portfolio, The Middle House was inspired by the city’s rich heritage of craftsmanship and comprises two towers linked below ground by a warren of beautifully designed and extraordinarily well executed leisure facilities. At the hands of renowned Italian designer and architect Piero Lissoni, contemporary design has been skillfully blended with traditional Asian elements in The Middle House’s 111 guest studios and 102 serviced apartments. Whilst the tone throughout th is largely dark wood, in the guest accommodations, bold lines and clean silhouettes prevail by way of custom furniture inspired by traditional Chinese pieces. Original Chinese artwork is displayed alongside rich woods and crisp linens. Transparent room dividers and clear glass walls dividing living spaces from oversized bathrooms open up the studios. All feature large walk-in closets. Whilst the result is a chic blend of Shanghainese decor and an utterly Italian approach to interiors – offering guests a sensory respite from the pulsating metropolis outside and a reliable oasis of calm in one of the world’s busiest cities – the property’s overall style is undoubtedly sealed by its outstanding art collection.

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

Curated by Alison Pickett, who is responsible for all of the House Collective’s art-centric hotel interiors, The Middle House’s theme is ‘I Dream of China’. This has been brought to life via more than 650 cutting-edge pieces liberally scattered throughout the property: from an extraordinary Chinese robe covered in 12,000 ceramic butterflies which hangs in the lobby, to striking paintings by Richard Winkworth. Onsite food and beverage options abound courtesy of Café Gray Deluxe overlooking buzzing Nanjing West Road; homely Italian Frasca, where classic Italian sharing dishes prevail, and modern Chinese restaurant Sui Tang Li which fuses contemporary local cuisine with traditional elements in both the venue’s design and food. Frasca and Sui Tang Li are exceptionally good restaurants. The Middle House’s seemingly immaculate design aesthetic flows into the hotel’s tranquil basement, deep below the towers, where guests have the run of a huge subterranean swimming pool, sauna, steam rooms, sprawling gym, yoga studio, juice bar and HYPOXI room, plus a massive Mi Xun Spa where a signature massage or Ling Lian facial will almost certainly restore your equilibrium after a long flight. ➤ www.themiddlehousehotel.com

BE I J I NG ➤ C H I NA

T H E P U X UA N H O T E L & S PA

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LOCATED ON THE EDGE of Beijing’s Forbidden City, Büro Ole Scheeren’s strikingly cool Guardian Art Center elicited waves of appreciation when it was unveiled in one of the world’s most significant historical areas, where it neighbours governmental buildings, the National Art Museum of China and Beijing’s most popular shopping belt, Wangfujing. Billed as the world’s first custom-built auction house, the massive structure is something of a hybrid between museum, gallery and market, accommodating a variety of facilities ranging from art galleries and art conservation to event spaces and public transport infrastructure. Early last year, the 92-key PuXuan hotel opened in the upper part of the building formed of translucent glass bricks, adding a welcome hospitality element to the center. The fifth property from Urban Resort Concepts and conceived as a pure, modern and authentic hotel that goes beyond conventional luxury, The PuXuan’s polished interiors were designed Shanghaibased MQ Studio, which opted for a rich colour and material palette balanced with a combination of handcrafted and artisanal furniture and antique and contemporary art pieces. The result is a slick, calm and beautifully executed hotel that skillfully balances past and

present, and acts as a bridge between patrons and the auction house, should one wish to purchase an artwork while in residence. Lined in walls of light timber, bedrooms and suites juxtapose Beijing’s charm and heritage with a luxurious and contemporary aesthetic. The finishes are second-to-none throughout. State-ofthe-art technology prevails. Intelligently designed bathrooms can be seamlessly integrated into the room experience or enclosed as an entirely private space. Every room features a full-sized walk-in wardrobe. PuXuan guests can check in and out at any time of the day or night. A private TV channel is available for proxy bidding. And every guest room contains a safe large enough to contain a couple of small artworks. Elsewhere within The PuXuan, the legacy and creativity of Chinese culture are channeled through the hotel’s facilities: from a spa, where ancient healing techniques are employed; to the fine cuisine served at Fu Chun Ju restaurant which pays resolute homage to traditional Cantonese flavours, and a Tea Room that positively celebrates Asia’s rich tea history. ➤ www.thepuxuan.com

SH E NZ H E N ➤ C H I NA

RAFFLES SHENZHEN

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JUST 30 YEARS AGO, Shenzhen was a small seaside town. Today it is an economic powerhouse, one of China’s largest and most important cities and the mainland’s coolest metropolis. Upon closer inspection it’s not hard to see why. The city’s urban sprawl and cloud-piercing towers make for an imposing metropolitan silhouette. Connected to Hong Kong via bullet train means that tourists can reach Shenzhen from downtown Kowloon in around 20 minutes. And what Shenzhen lacks in ancient temples and historic monuments to typically lure cultured travellers, it more than makes for with strikingly modern architecture, artsy pedestrian districts, excellent cocktail bars and exceptional Cantonese cuisine. Shenzen also boasts an array of luxury hotels, the newest of which, Raffles, opened last year in prestigious One Shenzhen Bay tower in Nanshan District, topped with a helipad for VIP access and helicopter sightseeing tours of Shenzhen Bay. Occupying floors 33-45 as well as 70-71 of the 72-storey tower (which also contains Raffles residences), arriving guests check-in on the 34th floor, which serves as a veritable lobby in the sky. As with every Raffles property, the service is attentive and discreet. Occupying floors 35 through 45, the hotel’s 168 sumptuous and overly spacious rooms and suites offer breathtaking views across the sea and cityscape. At 60 square metres, entry level rooms are larger and more decadent than many European hotel suites. Every guest room in the hotel is served by Raffles’ inimitable 24-hour butler service, providing everything from morning newspapers to freshly brewed coffee at the touch of a button. The onsite Raffles Spa is a welcoming haven of relaxation after a busy day on Shenzhen’s bustling streets and offers a range of rejuvenating treatments to restore mind, body and soul. Atop the hotel, Raffles’ six sky-high food and beverage venues include top notch Yun Jing restaurant, which showcases Cantonese fare and boasts 10 private dining rooms and Kokoni, which offers a Japanese culinary adventure spanning everything from kaiseki and premium steaks to sushi and sashimi. Also at the top of the hotel is a Raffles signature Long Bar. Because some things never go out of fashion, here one can sip an iconic Singapore Sling, created in 1915 at Raffles Singapore by Chinese bartender Ngiam Tong Boon. ➤ www.raffles.com

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

O C E A N IA

S Y D N E Y ➤ AU S T R A L I A

PA R A M O U N T HOUSE HOTEL

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SURRY HILLS IS LOCATED in the south-east corner of Sydney’s business district and is very much the city’s go-to dining and drinking neighbourhood. Fancy, high-end restaurants happily sit side-by-side with bijou bars, clothing boutiques, quirky shops, public parks and art galleries. Conceptualised from the outset to have a distinct personality and interact with its surrounding urban environment, Paramount House Hotel is housed within two carefully stitched together buildings in Surry Hills – the original 1940s former Australian headquarters of Paramount Picture Studios, and the adjoining film storage warehouse. The 29-key hotel shares the space with the Golden Age Cinema and Bar, Paramount Coffee Project Café (serving some of the best blends in Sydney), Paramount Recreation Centre and a chic co-working area called The Office Space. Hyde Park is just a few minutes’ walk away. The hotel’s reception is so understated that it wouldn’t be difficult to miss and is simply marked by copper herringbone doors either

side and a concrete sign that says, ‘Permanent Vacation’. Guests checking-in are routinely greeted with a glass of wine or a cold beer. Upstairs, the 27 bedrooms and two suites – occupying four floors of what was once the film storage warehouse – have a distinctly industrial feel to them, offset with a multitude of stylish touches and gorgeous accessories that will have you asking the inner-city hipster staff where it all came from. Contemporary tapestries hang on the walls. Bed linen in soft shades of blue and apricot is adorned with merino blankets. Colourful Pakistani kilim rugs offset tiled floors, cement ceilings and exposed copper pipework. Most rooms have enclosed plant-bedecked terraces or balconies. Some of the terrazzo-tiled bathrooms feature stunning Japanese-inspired wooden tubs. There’s a gym on the roof and always so much going-on in the building that you will almost certainly be reluctant to leave.

➤ www.paramounthousehotel.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

A SO M U E T R H IC A

S A L VA D O R ➤ B R A Z I L

F E R A PA L A C E HOTEL

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SLEEP INSIDE A LIVING PIECE OF SALVADOR’S HISTORY at this lovingly restored boutique hotel, 200 metres from Lacerda Elevator and 300 metres from the Mercado Modelo. Built in 1934 in the style of New York’s Flatiron, the then Palace Hotel – an impressive art deco landmark in Salvador de Bahia’s Pelourinho quarter – was for a brief shining moment the hotel of choice for the likes of Carmen Miranda, Orson Welles and Pablo Neruda. By the time Marcelo Lima and Antonio Mazzafera bought the property in 2011, it had already been shuttered for a decade. The façade of the building still retains its original 1930s art deco charm, but inside everything has been given a luxuriously modern makeover under the precise eye of Danish architect Adam Kurdahl. The result is an effortlessly stunning property, executed with panache, featuring 81 spacious rooms, many of which boast sweeping view across All Saints Bay. The interiors, also by Kurdahl, retain the original windows, while guest rooms and public spaces all feature aged brushed steel fixtures and solid Chesterfields. The mirrored drinks cabinets in guest rooms are a louche touch. Quirky art-deco flourishes lend a bohemian edge throughout the entire property.

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

Onsite facilities including a chic lobby bar, cosy restaurant, sauna with massage rooms and a well-equipped fitness centre. But Fera Palace’s crowning glory is its plush top floor spa, gorgeous 25 metre infinity pool, exquisitely furnished roof terrace and stylish bar, which together set the scene for perfect evenings and offer a tantalising taste of the Bahia-influenced culinary delights prepared by executive chef Wellington Santos and served in refreshingly informal Adamastor Restaurant. ➤ www.ferapalacehotel.com.br

R IO DE JA N E I RO ➤ BR A Z I L

H OT E L FA S A N O RIO D E JA N E I R O

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PART OF RIO’S ALLURE has always been its ability to marry tropical elegance with the casual and an “anything goes” ethos to create an intoxicating tonic like no other. It is this Rio that one experiences when staying at Hotel Fasano Rio De Janeiro, which embodies the best of the city and its motherland. The Fasano family arrived in Brazil more than a century ago from Italy, and first established its reputation for attentive and upscale hospitality in São Paulo. Known initially for its gastronomic excellence in cafés and then restaurants, the family opened its São Paulo hotel in 2003 to immediate acclaim. The family’s name has since become a synonym for discreet luxury. Located in the Arpoador section of Ipanema, the beachfront Fasano in Rio benefits from being on a somewhat quieter part of the beach, affording a sense of intimacy and discretion, while at the same time being a stone’s throw from the cafés, boutiques and parade of gym-toned bodies that make Ipanema so desirable and fun. Being Philippe Stark’s first hospitality project in Brazil, the Fasano is a love story to Brazilian modernism, known for its ingenious combinations of tropical woods, man-made materials, curvilinear shapes, light shafts and spaces that seamlessly flow from in to outdoors. The lobby is a symphony of wellconsidered soft furnishings in leather, carved wood tables and sophisticated upholstery, with cleverly positioned blinds revealing walls of windows that look out to garden nooks and more ocean. Upstairs, 89 rooms and 10 suites continue the tropical-chic look and play with dark accents, mirrors and natural light to create spaces that are as comfortable as they are easy on the eyes. Be sure to splurge on a deluxe room for unobstructed ocean views. Onsite Al Mare all-day-dining restaurant focusses on Italian-inspired seafood. The hotel’s moody bar, Baretto Londra, boasts brown leather and cowhide seating, is evocative of a private members’ club and is one of the city’s most exclusive watering holes. Yet it is the hotel’s rooftop pool that truly impresses, boasting incredible, panoramic vistas up and down the coastline.

➤ www.fasano.com.br

C E M NT E R R A IC L A A

TRIBAL

➸ G R A NA DA ➤ N I C A R AGUA

ONE HOTEL, MORE THAN ANY OTHER, has helped to put the UNESCO-protected colonial town of Granada on the tourist map. The brainchild of New York restaurateur JeanMarc Houmard and his business partner Yvan Cussigh and feeling a little like their own, personal holiday retreat, Tribal is tucked away on a quiet residential street, a stone’s throw from the main square and just five minutes’ walk from the action. A riot of colour, the hotel’s design aesthetic can best be described as global, ethnic chic, inspired by the guys’ travels to India, Bali, Thailand, Morocco, Turkey and Kenya. Contemporary art works and photographs are liberally distributed throughout. The furniture and pottery were handmade by local artisans. Fashion and fine art magazines abound, begging to be flicked through. The five eclectically decorated bedrooms and two junior suites surround an open-air patio with a photogenic, bijou splash pool at its center. Whilst rooms are intimate, all have an indoor/outdoor feel with private terraces, air-con and queensized beds. White t-shirt and blue jeans-clad staff are on hand to spoil guests with expertly made cocktails and nibbles, served to sultan-like divans and loungers that adorn the public spaces. Cussigh literally lives around the corner and is onsite almost all the time, his attention to detail and panache as a host ensuring that guests are always in excellent and caring hands.

➤ www.tribal-hotel.com

H T A R IC O N ER M A

N E W YO R K ➤ U N I T E D S TAT E S

THE BEEKMAN

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THE BEEKMAN IS A RARE HOSPITALITY GEM that manages to temporarily transport guests into lives that are more beautiful, more glamorous and more effortlessly stylish that their normal day-to-day existences, without making them feel like they’ve stepped into Disneyland or onto the set of a movie. Occupying a landmark 1881 Queen Anne building, originally constructed by architecture firm Silliman & Farnsworth, formerly known as Temple Court and erected at the height of New York’s early golden age, The Beekman has incredibly good genes. In its heyday, the building served as a white-collar hub of industry, where more than 200 businesses operated, from accountants and lawyers to publishers and press agents. And the glorious redbrick turreted structure has a magnificent nine-storey Victorian atrium and pyramidal skylight as its crowning glory. There’s a palpable sense of cultural history as one enters the lobby. The hotel’s interiors – designed by much-celebrated hospitality firm Martin Brudnizki Design Studio – are sensitive to the

building’s history, without turning it into kitsch or farcical lodgings. This is core to The Beekman’s architectural success. For instance, in the Bar Room, leather club chairs sit next to bookshelves, floors are piled with Oriental rugs and portraits of famous authors hang on the walls. Yet it has all been executed with exceptionally good taste and lashings of style. The 285 rooms, plus two turret suites which ring the soaring central atrium, all retain their original moldings, understated chandeliers and high ceilings. Furnished in a mix of antique and custom pieces, studded leather headboards, bar carts and chinoiserie lamps, they’re balanced with contemporary accessories and a funky colour palette. Large bathrooms are clad in a Carrera version of timeless New York subway tiles and can be closed off with giant barn doors. The overall effect is the tasteful revival and reimagination of a long-time neglected beauty, while maintaining its unique and original patina. For cool lower Manhattan lodgings, The Beekman is almost certainly one of the best. ➤ www.thebeekman.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

S A N F R A NC I S C O ➤ U N I T E D S TAT E S

PROPER HOTEL

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CULTURED TRAVELLERS KNOW that San Francisco is positively brimming with charm, cultural attractions, great shopping, superb restaurants and happening bars. And it has a number of deluxe hotels to accommodate discerning travellers. But, one thing San Fran was lacking on the hospitality front, was a hip hotel where trend setters and globetrotting hipsters could hang, be creative and rest their artistic heads. This changed in late 2017 when the Golden City finally got the design-led boutique lodgings it so desperately needed. Located at Market Street between Seventh and Sixth streets, the Proper opened in a historic flatiron building erected in 1904 by the city’s pioneer of lavish Beaux-Arts architecture, Albert Pissison. The building sits in the heart of San Francisco’s emerging Mid-Market neighbourhood, where elite tech companies inhabiting abandoned landmarks and Michelin-starred chefs helming upscale eateries

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

have regenerated this funky part of downtown. Inspired by the historic building’s colourful past, renowned interior designer Kelly Wearstler took a warm approach when kitting out its insides and filled it with a cheerful pastiche of classic and modern styles. Deep colours, rich textures, classic design pieces and vintage furniture positively clash with bold fabrics and mad wallpaper. This makes walking into the Proper an assault on the visual senses. Not to mention an Instagrammer’s dream! Staff wear check suits, striped shirts and floral ties which project a fun, fresh and fashionable aesthetic which sits well within the hotel’s urban setting, with Union Square’s designer shops, theatres and SFMOMA all just a few blocks away. Upstairs, the Proper’s 131 guest rooms (including 11 suites) are considerately furnished to provide a functional, Scandinavianesque stay experience, laden with enough cool touches to keep even

the most tech-savvy happy. TVs come with Google Chromecast and all rooms boast wireless bluetooth-enabled Vifa speakers so guests can stream their own entertainment. Bedside tablets facilitate room service, local recommendations, reservations for meals and complimentary bicycles. Slick bathrooms have walk-in rain showers and Aesop toiletries. The Proper’s F&B three venues are hung with local artworks by a variety of emerging talent, connecting the venue to the pulse of the neighbourhood. Thankfully residents are given preference at the Proper’s rooftop bar, Charmaine, which routinely has locals queueing down the block. Still the coolest hotel in town almost three years after it threw open its playful doors, the Proper is so on trend that it’s little wonder it has become a destination unto itself.

➤ www.properhotel.com

WA S H I N G T O N , D C ➤ U N I T E D S TAT E S

THE LINE DC

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HOUSED WITHIN WASHINGTON’S FORMER 110-year-old First Christ of Scientist neoclassical church – perched on the corner of Euclid Street and Columbia Road, in the diverse and buzzing Adams Morgan neighbourhood – the first spinoff of LA’s hip Koreatown hotel is truly like no other hotel in routinely stiff D.C. For starters, The LINE DC’s dramatic entrance is nigh on monumental. Just watching people weave their way up and down the front steps and through the towering columns is an attraction in itself. Once inside, 20-metre vaulted ceilings crisscross a spectacular lobby, above which the church organ’s pipes have been reimagined as a striking chandelier which hangs in the center. Lobby seating has been fashioned from repurposed mahogany church pews adorned in midnight blue velvet, lifting them way beyond their original use. Staff are stylish, laid back, polite and knowledgeable with a hint of hipster. The hotel’s soundtrack is live, non-profit, culinary-driven internet radio station and podcast network Full Service Radio, created by Heritage Radio alumni Jack Inslee, which broadcasts from the lobby and a rooftop terrace. Salvaged pages of old hymn books have even been re-used to create art pieces. Like its sister hotel in Los Angeles, The LINE DC artistically perpetuates a stylish aesthetic that pays homage to both its structure and the surrounding neighbourhood, creating a supremely social, community-like vibe which is unlike any other Washington hotel. A selection of drinking and dining options, helmed by local talent, further bed the hotel and its F&B venues into Adams Morgan, including modern lobby café The Cup We All Race 4, which serves Counter Culture Coffee and delicious, no-nonsense food courtesy of celebrated chefs Spike Gjerde and Erik Bruner-Yang. Unlike the hotel’s restaurants, bars and public spaces, which positively encourage meeting and mingling, the vibe of the 220 guest rooms and suites upstairs has been thoughtfully designed to promote a sense of calm and relaxation. Brass beds, curated local artwork and mini libraries sourced from nearby Idle Times Books make staying at The LINE DC like being in a cozy home-away-home and as check-out time approaches, leaving is likely to be the last thing you’ll want to do.

➤ www.thelinehotel.com/dc

Le Royal Monceau - Raffles Paris Contemporary Palace of Living Arts

PARIS - WARSAW - ISTANBUL - MALDIVES - SEYCHELLES - DUBAI - MAKKAH - SINGAPORE - PHNOM PENH - SIEM REAP - HAINAN - SHENZHEN - BALI - JAKARTA - MANILA UPCOMING: LONDON - BOSTON - UDAIPUR - MANAMA - JEDDAH

RAFFLES.COM/PARIS

DE T R OI T ➤ U N I T E D S TAT E S

THE SIREN HOTEL

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COMMONLY KNOWN AS the Motor City, pre-pandemic, Detroit was brimming with culture, life and creative energy. A singular metropolitan representation of the American experience, while news headlines about Detroit had tended to dwell on its decay and bankruptcy, in reality and on the ground there’s plenty to impress even the most discerning of travellers in this vibrant, progressive and charming city. In the decades before it sat silently decaying, the Wurlitzer Building at 1509 Broadway was filled with music, home to one of the largest music stores in the world and helped to thrill thousands of theatre-going Detroiters. Designed by Detroit architect Robert Finn in an elegant Renaissance Revival style, built by the Otto Misch Company and opened on 8th December 1926, the 14-storey building once housed the Wurlitzer Company which made pianos, organs, radios and, most famously, jukeboxes. The Wurlitzer Company left sometime before the 1970s and was followed by various tenants, although the building was never again fully let. By the mid 1980s, without any tenants, the tall, narrow and abandoned building fell into disrepair. Sadly, the historic landmark started to fall to pieces at the beginning of the last decade. Thankfully, in 2015 the Wurlitzer Building was rescued from what seemed like almost certain demolition, when developer ASH NYC bought it to renovate and transform into The Siren Hotel which opened a few years ago retaining many 1920s features which were preserved during its conversion. Original terracotta signage, beautiful travertine floors and plaster ceiling details were updated with pastel colours and rich materials to maintain the essence of the building. The 106 off-white guest rooms are accentuated with timber floors, white veined black marble, hues of pinks and oxblood and plush, angular, navy blue-upholstered furniture. Custom blankets on the beds were designed by graduate students from a nearby art academy. Unusually for such a small hotel, the building also includes seven dining and drinking areas, two retail spaces, and a rooftop bar that boasts impressive views into Canada across the Detroit River.

➤ www.thesirenhotel.com

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

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WIN a five-night

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ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

W IN T WO NIGHTS IN A PREMIER OCEA N V IEW ROOM AT SH A NGRI-L A

P R IZ E D R AW

HO T E L , C OL OM BO, I NC LU DI NG DA I LY B R E A K FA S T S P LU S O N E D I N N E R FOR T WO PEOPLE AT CELEBRIT Y C H E F D H A R S H A N M U N I D A S A’ S FA M E D K A E M A S U T R A R E S T AU R A N T. PLUS, T H R EE N IGH TS I N A PR EM I ER O C E A N R O OM AT S H A NG R I - L A’ S H A M B A N T O TA G O L F R E S O RT & S PA I N C LU D I N G D A I LY B R E A K FA S T S A N D A R I V E R B O AT S A FA R I F O R T WO PEOPL E. A L S O I NCLU DED A R E COMPLIMENTA RY A IRPORT A ND INTER-RESORT TR A NSFERS

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INSPIRED BY THE LEGENDARY LAND featured in James Hilton’s 1933 novel Lost Horizon, Shangri-La is one of Asia Pacific’s leading luxury hotel groups and has grown to encapsulate a high level of serenity and service for which the brand’s properties have become renowned worldwide. Combining modern luxury with authentic Sri Lankan charm, Shangri-La’s Colombo hotel is home to more than 500 guest rooms, 34 suites and 41 apartments. All boast uninterrupted views of the Indian Ocean, Beira Lake or the city’s skyline and are decorated in a luxe and smart yet warm and inviting colour palette to reflect the coastal surroundings. Multiple onsite food and beverage venues cater to every taste and a spa, pool and fitness centre provide plentiful leisure options. ➤ shangri-la.com/colombo/shangrila Built upon the grounds of a former coconut plantation and hugging a beautiful stretch of coastline, Shangri-La’s Hambantota Golf Resort & Spa is a retreat towards rediscovering Sri Lanka’s wild heart. Set amongst lush tropical gardens and sprawling across almost 59 hectares, the country’s largest resort is home to an 18-hole championship golf course, an expansive spa and a unique artisan village, as well as 300 guest rooms and 21 luxe suites.

➤ www.shangri-la.com/hambantota/shangrila

TO ENTER Email your contact details to ➤ win@theculturedtraveller.com The draw will take place on 1 December 2020 and the winner will be notified via email. This prize can be used any time before 30 April 2021 subject to availability when booking. Blackout dates may apply. This prize is not transferable to another person. The Cultured Traveller will not share your details with third parties. Multiple entries will be disqualified and excluded from the draw. All entrants will be added to The Cultured Traveller’s mailing list.

Shangri-La’s Hambantota Golf Resort & Spa

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C O L O M B I A’ S CARIBBEAN QUEEN

C A R TA

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

CIT Y FOCUS

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MBRACED BY THE PACIFIC and Atlantic oceans, Colombia is a nation of rich flora and fauna unlike anywhere else, including the Amazon rainforest and Andes mountains. Coupled with modern cities, vast farmlands, unique gastronomy, ancient civilizations and an abundance of authentic colonial charm make it one of the most fascinating countries on the planet. Turning the tide on a long running and bloody terrorist insurgency, in recent years, Colombia has undergone a remarkable transformation and made huge strides in restoring security and stability to the nation. Today, the country’s boundless energy and genuine spirit fill every corner of the land and music, dance, food, art, fashion and style saturate its conurbations. On the northern coast of Colombia, Cartagena’s historical and political heritage is undeniable. Founded in 1533 by Spanish commander Pedro de Heredia, the city quickly established itself as the leading trade and governmental seat of the New World Conquistadors. Gold tombs and Indian reserves were immediately pillaged by the invaders and the city became a veritable bank vault for the precious jewels, silver and bullion that the Spanish took from Colombia, neighbouring Peru and shipped to Europe. Seven miles of fortified walls (the largest in Latin America) were built to defend Cartagena against the many pirates and other nefarious characters who frequently tried to ransack the plundered wealth stored within the imposing fort. Largely governed by the Spanish, they have all left their fingerprints firmly in the aesthetics of Cartagena’s architecture. The French, Dutch and British also invaded and ruled for brief periods of time. Such a mixture of influencing cultures, although incredibly tumultuous, instilled Cartagena with a unique and special identity; part African, a dash of pirate, a slice of European, a significant Caribbean flavour, a smidgen

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

CITY FOCUS C A R TA G E N A

of Native Indian but one hundred per cent Colombian, encompassing all the colour, passion and vibrancy that runs through the veins of this extraordinarily diverse country. THE WALLED CITY OF CARTAGENA was granted UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 1984 and remains one of the most authentic and well-maintained examples of Spanish period colonial architecture in the world. A maze of cobbled alleys, ornate bougainvillea-covered balconies, colourful 400-year-old houses, crumbling mansions and massive churches that cast their shadows across plazas, music, aromas and pulsating rhythms greet visitors at every corner of Cartagena. Horses and carts clatter through the streets and flash mobs dance in pretty squares. Whilst the whole of Colombia is designed to be explored at ground level, once visited, the nation’s undisputed Caribbean queen saturates with her architectural gems and embraces with her alluring charms to such an extent that it’s truly hard for one to leave. The best way to explore the captivating walled city is to basically throw away the guidebook, forget all normal

sightseeing routines and simply walk out the front door of your lodgings and stroll through the old town by day and night. Don’t bother with a map – you will find where you’re going, eventually, in good old Caribbean time. A long weekend is the right amount of time to enjoy the jewel in Colombia’s crown. Book accommodation within the walled city but don’t be afraid to explore beyond, because the outer town – teeming with traffic and populated by the working classes – is a charmingly chaotic experience that can leave you delightfully dazed and confused in minutes, but somehow addicted to the madness of it all. A hospitality landmark in the heart of the old city and most probably the most famous hotel in Colombia, Bill Gates, Mel Gibson, Francis Ford Coppola, Mick Jagger and Plácido Domingo (amongst countless famed others) have all stayed at Sofitel Legend Santa Clara. Formerly a monastery and a convent, the property’s architectural 17th Century heritage has been carefully incorporated to impress yet not bedazzle guests. Suites are spacious and provide a contemporary vintage feel bedecked with modern-day amenities. The hotel’s butler ➤

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service is particularly efficient without being OTT. A variety of gourmet dining options and a well-stocked cellar, deluxe spa and a large palm tree-fringed swimming pool are just some of the facilities on offer to pamper guests. Wandering around the hotel brings you face-to-face with intriguing artifacts that were recovered from pirate attacks, original architectural features and priceless religious pieces. Meanwhile, walking a few steps in any direction from Santa Clara opens up a veritable selection of history, culture, gastronomy and colour, making this an ideal place to base oneself for the numerous adventures Cartagena offers. ➤ www.sofitel-legend.com For more than a decade, Café del Mar has provided visitors to Cartagena with uninterrupted views of the city’s striking crimson sunsets that transform the colours of its ancient buildings. Located on the western-most point of the ancient walls, a round of sundowners at Café del Mar will undoubtedly kick start a weekend in dramatic fashion ➤ www.en.cafedelmarcartagena.com.co . But don’t linger too long, because there is much more to see, for as night falls on Cartagena, a multitude of venues offer more up-tempo beats that get hotter and louder as the skies grow darker. An easy 10-minute walk from the walled city is Getsemaní, a hip and recently gentrified area of Cartagena. Originally the abode of freed slaves, merchants, tradesmen and those who fought (and won) against the Spanish to gain independence in 1821, this charming area retains the small-town appeal of somewhere that has not quite been fully discovered. Largely inhabited by bohemian artists, writers, musicians and other creative types, Getsemaní’s artistic underbelly is reflected in the plethora of street art, live music and dancing

Demente

Sofitel Legend Santa Clara

in the main square and the good selection of über-cool establishments in the neighbourhood, one of the best of which is Demente. A Cuban-inspired tapas bar in a quirky speakeasy-style setting, Demente is presided over by talented and friendly staff and frequented by everyone from locals to cultured travellers. Settle into a rocking chair and lose yourself in the eclectic music whilst sipping a potent cocktail, or feast on scrumptious pizzas in the characterful garden out back and make a night of it. ➤ www.demente.com.co Once you’ve been sufficiently fuelled and fed at Demente and gathered enough Dutch courage to warm up your dancing feet with a spot of salsa with the locals in Plaza de la Trinidad (immediately in front of Demente), head to Café Havana to really let your hair down. Stepping into this joyous sweatbox is akin to being transported into the sheet music of a Cuban song. Sensual, heady and packed, the only thing that’s missing is the smell of Cuban cigars. Agile dancers fill the floor moving to infectious salsa played live by world-class bands, whilst anxious newbies sip on some of the best mojitos in town before joining in. Make new friends, dance ‘til you drop and embrace the irresistibly sexy Colombian energy of it all. ➤ www.cafehavanacartagena.com

Café Havana

CITY FOCUS C A R TA G E N A

Café Del Mar

Above: Getsemaní Right: Gabriel García Márquez

GABRIEL GARCÍA MÁRQUEZ WAS A LONG-TIME RESIDENT of Cartagena and used the city as inspiration for his novels, amongst them the classic Of Love and Other Demons. His home is adjacent to Sofitel Legend Santa Clara and is still a photographic pitstop for tourists. The multi-million selling magical realism author and Nobel prize winner – affectionately known as Gabo in Colombia – can be evoked through a walking city tour that can be downloaded to a smartphone. These captivating audio guides, which are cleverly intertwined with passages from Márquez’s literature, conjure the sights, sounds, smells, period and romance of Cartagena. They can also be tailored to individuals and delivered directly to your hotel. ➤ www.tierramagna.com/en/cartagena-de-gabo While you’re discovering the exquisite city Márquez portrays in his unique writings, be sure to pick-up a scrumptious arepa de chocolo, made with sweet corn and topped with cheese, from a street vendor by the clock tower. Arepas come in different shapes and varieties depending on what area of Colombia you’re in, but these thick and cheesy types are scrummy, especially while you’re on-the-go. Cartagena is hot and humid. Thankfully nights are cooler and there are dozens of enticing ice cream shops within the old city. You could spend a month in Cartagena and probably road test a different gelateria every day. Maria Nevett’s glorious ice cream parlour, Gelataria Paradiso, pairs French-inspired floral boudoir frills with homemade ice cream thrills to create the ultimate place to stop and chill. It’s the kind of place every kid dreams of and is the most charming ice cream shop in the city. New flavours are introduced daily, alongside classics, so you can try someone new every day. ➤ www.instagram.com/gelateriaparadiso ➤

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Cartagena’s rich culinary scene is largely fueled by a plethora of talented and creative Colombian chefs happy to be back in their motherland after stints in fancy restaurants overseas. So visitors are spoilt for choice and the prices are not as steep as dining at an equivalent restaurant back home. Created by Bogotá-born internationally trained chef Alejandro Ramírez, who prepares a fresh take on traditional food served in a striking and fun interior, María is a modern culinary haven. A firm believer in sustainable eating, Ramírez works closely with native fishermen and farmers, ensuring a daily supply of fresh local produce to fuel his fusion menu of global cuisine, from Asian-accented ceviche to a traditional take on British fish and chips. The drinks list is equally inventive, featuring cocktails such as Cactus Margarita and Mango Mojito to name just a few. María is the perfect place to eat well and people watch before heading to Alquimíco a few doors down the road. ➤ www.mariacartagena.com The city’s Palenquera fruit sellers are as much a fixture of Cartagena as the Catedral de San Pedro Claver. Their bright dresses and smiling faces have become an integral part of the city’s very fabric. You only need look into the bountiful bowls carried on their heads to see the incredible range of exotic fruits readily available in Colombia. Lulo, feijoa, piña, curuba, pitahaya and guayaba are just some of the fruits Colombians used almost exclusively for juices for years, meanwhile drinking their liquor straight. Until Jean Trinh came along, that is. Trinh was one of the first to infuse rum with local fruits and spices. The result is delectable handcrafted cocktails served at Cartagena’s cocktail alchemist, Alquímico. Housed within a beautiful mansion dating back more than a century, Alquímico has transformed drinking in Cartagena into an art form and elevated the city’s nightlife scene. And on Friday and Saturday nights, Alquímico’s roof terrace provides space to dance and groove, so there’s no need to move on to a traditional club. ➤ www.alquimico.com

Above: Maria; Below left: Alquímico; Right: A Palenquera fruit seller

CITY FOCUS C A R TA G E N A

El Boliche Cebichería

AFTER A NIGHT OF MERRYMAKING, there’s no better way to kick-start a new day than quality, freshly brewed coffee. But, like its rum, Colombia’s coffees need an expert hand to guide you through the best way to enjoy them. Across the street from the cathedral, San Alberto Café was borne of its namesake plantation: Hacienda San Alberto – located in the province of Quindío, in the heart of the country’s coffee triangle roughly 900 kilometres due south of Cartagena. San Alberto has been producing high grade beans for more than forty years and has won countless international awards. So at San Alberto Café, as well as shaking off the previous night’s excesses, you will enjoy superb Colombian coffee. Expert baristas can talk you through the process of planting, harvesting, classifying and producing the country’s top brew and, if you have time, you can book a coffee baptism ritual or sample some of San Antonio’s premium offerings. Either way, stopping-by San Alberto Café will undoubtedly fuel you for the day ahead. ➤ www.cafesanalberto.com/en Cartagena’s prosperity in the 1500s made it a destination that attracted explorers, architectural pioneers and tradesmen, but also infamous pirates and thieves who wreaked havoc in

the city for decades. Walls and castles that still stand proud – built to protect the city’s borders from the incessant raids – are design features of a by-gone colonial era that define the city’s inimitable aesthetic to this day. Though ceviche originated in Peru, Colombia has put its own distinctive spin on it, and there are few better places in Cartagena to have a seafood party in your mouth than tiny El Boliche Cebichería. Launched almost a decade ago by chef Oscar Colmeranes (who perfected his craft at Martin Berasategui’s eponymous three Michelin-starred San Sebastian restaurant), his ceviche skills are equally matched by his insistence on using only freshly-caught produce fished by artisans. Colmeranes’ cebichería serves attractive, balanced dishes, incorporating local fruit and herb combinations, which leave even the most seasoned of palates satisfied yet not weighted down by over-strong flavours. Focusing on quality over quantity, the grilled seafood platter, crab empanadas and ceviche in a suero costeño reduction are all worth ordering. ➤ www.facebook.com/elbolichecebicheria At the end of a successful city break I often end it at the place where it began, or at the very least doing the same sort of thing. Boasting 360-degree views of the old city, harbour and downtown Cartagena’s skyscrapers, there is nowhere better to view the city’s historic sites, juxtaposed with the Miami-esque skyline of its contemporary architecture, than from the rooftop of the Movich hotel. The contrasting buildings on show, offset by the setting sun’s vivid colours, make for a very special backdrop to a sundowner or two. ➤ www.movichhotelcartagenadeindias.com Colombia’s Caribbean queen is colourful, charismatic and utterly charming. At a time when travelling anywhere is much more hassle than it was pre-Covid 19, experiential destinations that deliver on multiple sensory levels is what is now needed. A colonial riot of colour, steeped in tradition and bedecked with historic sites, luxury hotels and superb restaurants, Cartagena is arguably the perfect destination for a post-pandemic city break.

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NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU U N PA C K S H I S LU G G A G E I N A SLICK ROOFTOP SUITE, PERCHED A BOV E THE HEA RT OF ZÜRICH’S CH A RISM ATIC OLD TOW N, A ND FEELS LIK E 007 FOR A WEEK END

suite envy ➤ THE PENTHOUSE SUITE WIDDER HOTEL, ZÜRICH

ITH A RICHLY STORIED PAST dating back more than 5,000 years, few places in Switzerland’s largest metropolis are as charming and well-preserved as Zürich’s old town. In many ways the heart and soul of Zürich, the old town’s picturesque lanes, hidden alleys and quaint squares form the very core of this sophisticated and innovative 21st Century world city and at its epicentre is the Widder Hotel. A collection of nine meticulously restored historical residences skillfully sewn together, the oldest of which dates back to the 12th Century, Widder is a prime example of everything that the Swiss do so very well. Not least, marrying the old and traditional with the new and cuttingedge without losing a single thing. ➤

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Widder restaurant

BOASTING MORE THAN SEVEN HUNDRED YEARS of history in one hotel, each of the buildings which form part of the Widder were erected, decorated, remodelled and occupied by descendants of noble families, guild masters, artisans and merchants before coming together as an utterly unique fivestar hospitality establishment that is now renowned around the world. Firstly, the Widder’s location is literally second-to-none. As a visitor you could not wish for a better base, with the main train station five-minutes’ walk away, the financial district just around the corner, Zürich’s main historical sights on the doorstep and Bahnhofstrasse’s designer boutiques at the end of the street. If it weren’t for the hotel’s entrance, it would be easy to overlook Widder’s shuttered façade on Rennweg, so seamlessly do its lovingly restored and carefully maintained houses blend into the local architectural vernacular of Zürich’s most prestigious street until the 19th Century.

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Once inside, the obvious marriage of old and new instantly impresses. A veritable architectural work of art courtesy of star Swiss architect Tilla Theus, Widder is a bright and joyful maze which begs to be explored. Indeed, staying in the hotel is akin to being Alice in a hospitality wonderland, with a new surprise at the end of each corridor and different spaces to be discovered on every level. Virtually unheard of in the hospitality industry, when UBS acquired the property in 1984, it gave Theus carte blanche with regards to the hotel’s design, art and décor budget. Thus, painstaking detailing abounds throughout Widder’s public spaces and spotting it is just one of the joys of spending time in this wonderful building. Floors are carefully inlaid with fine marble and granite.

SUITE ENVY

The Library

Structural steel is set between medieval beams. Doors are fashioned from some of the most beautiful timbers on the planet. You will notice furniture by Le Corbusier, Charles and Ray Eames and Josef Hoffmann amongst notable others. And valuable artworks casually hang on ancient stone walls throughout, including pieces by Andy Warhol and Robert Rauschenberg. WHILE ALL OF THIS MAY SOUND A LITTLE MUSEUMLIKE, Widder couldn’t be further from an exhibition space. Such is the clever design of the hotel that guests feel embraced the minute they enter, and the incredibly warm and attentive team takes the Widder stay experience to another level without being too familiar. Staff are universally knowledgeable and helpful while being professional and super-polite at all times. At the hotel’s core, a house was gutted to make way for a staircase and pair of striking chrome, steel and glass elevators.

Bathed in natural light from above and akin to functioning architectural art, the lifts glide up and down amongst irregular walls and centuries of layering, transforming a mere lift experience into something of an archaeological journey through the heart of the building. The ground floors of the hotel are home to two excellent restaurants with an emphasis on meat – Widder and AuGust – plus one of the best bars in town which stocks more than a thousand spirits. There is also a live music venue, a library for guests and a leafy, retreat-like courtyard garden and summer lounge. In the basement, a plentiful selection of gym equipment is broken up by mammoth 16th Century pillars in a charismatic fitness room which was once-upon-a-time a museum dedicated to butchery. Since the hotel is part of Zürich’s butcher’s guild and Widder means ‘ram’, cute little hints to the building’s heritage are evident here and there. ➤

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Upstairs, literally no expense was spared during the design of Widder’s forty-nine guest rooms and suites. Every one is a unique space decorated individually, furnished with one-off pieces, illuminated by bespoke lighting and hung with original artworks. No two rooms are the same, either in their layout or design style. PERCHED ATOP THE PROPERTY LIKE A JAMES BONDesque apartment and lookout point, built into the eaves of 14th Century Haus Zum Widder, is the hotel’s penthouse suite – Room 708. Formerly a laundry room before Theus waved her magic design wand transforming the space, the rather special splitlevel lodgings are entered via a single, discrete baur walnut door which opens to a half staircase leading up into the suite’s main salon. Comprising an open-plan lounge and dining area, the room is lit by windows on three sides and dominated by a showstopping open fireplace. Slick white designer couches provide ample seating. A beautifully crafted baur walnut drinks cabinet is the perfect place from which to craft and serve cocktails. Blinds throughout the suite electrically close at the touch of a button. ➤

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Just off the lounge, a chic guest powder room is handy when hosting a soirée. Beyond, the spacious master bedroom is triple aspect, with dormer windows looking out over the city’s wonky rooftops. In fact, as you move around the suite, the feeling is not unlike being at the top of a historic, whimsical castle. A MASSIVE BED IS ADORNED BY A HUGE ARTWORK by Charlotte Schmid, which hangs just above a low white leather-padded headboard with floating gold leaf-clad tables on either side. Wardrobes in two walls provide ample hanging space for even the most luggage laden traveller. The second of the suite’s two desks looks towards Zürich’s charismatic old town. A cobalt blue marble-lined bathroom boasts a jacuzzi bath for two, corner shower, his and hers basins and a thoughtful dressing table, every inch of which is carved from the same, stunning stone. But the penthouse suite’s crowning glory is surely its private roof terrace. Accessed via an elaborate, remotecontrolled electric glass hatch at the top of a white granite staircase, it offers spectacular 360-degree vistas of the old town and looking towards Lake Zürich, breathtaking views of the Swiss alps beyond. Budget permitting, the Widder’s penthouse suite is hands down one of the coolest hotel rooms in Zürich. A chic entertaining space, designer lounge, cosy city centre refuge, decadent boudoir and rooftop party pad all rolled into one neat, functional and beautifully finished package, the multipurpose suite is just the ticket for a luxe weekend enjoying everything that Switzerland’s most vibrant city has to offer. A night in the Penthouse Suite at Widder Hotel costs CHF 3,000–3,900 including taxes and breakfast. ➤ www.widderhotel.com

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SUITE ENVY

F I N L A N D ’ S M O S T FA M OU S AC T OR F LY- F I S H E S I N FA R - F LU N G D E S T I N AT IO N S , IS DRIV EN TO RID THE PLANET OF EN V I RON M EN TA L LY DA M AGI NG DA MS A ND STA RS IN SPIK E LEE’S L ATEST MOV IE, DA 5 BLOODS

MINUTES WITH

jasper pääkkönen

➸

Where did you spend the lockdown and how was it for you?

I spent all of lockdown in my home country, Finland. It is wrong to try and find good things about the pandemic, but I must say that it was a welcome break from all of the constant work-related traveling I have been doing for the past couple of years. In 2018, Time magazine named Löyly, your Helsinki sauna complex, as one of the world’s 100 greatest places. This must have been quite a compliment?

When Time let me know Löyly had won, I first thought that it was a practical joke

someone was pulling on me! After only a few years since opening, it was the biggest compliment anyone could have paid. I believe that the combination of an ancient Finnish health and wellness method, sauna, and contemporary Finnish timber architecture make Löyly special. Tell us about the design of Löyly.

Löyly is largely built of FSC-certified wood. We gave our architects, Avanto, free hand to create something striking that would hopefully become a Helsinki landmark. It looks like we have succeeded, because Löyly is one of the top three most visited sites in the city.

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How does Finnish culture standout from other Nordic nations? Finns are

very humble and down-to-earth. We don’t much care about appearance or superficial stuff. We’re not into small talk. We are pretty quiet. But we are very honest. As a Finn, I feel that the closest to us are the Norwegians, since they have much the same laid-back mentality towards life. Finns also have a touch of Icelandic craziness! What inspired you to become an actor?

My dad is a theatre actor and I spent much of my childhood running around the corridors of the Finnish National Theatre.

Fly-fishing is my number one passion, more so than acting or anything else for that matter

Clockwise: Jasper fly-fishing in Brazil; with Spike Lee; Löyly

You achieved international fame by playing Halfdan The Black in Vikings. How does working on a series differ from a movie? First of all, a series like

Vikings shoots for 10–11 months in one go. Being away from home for such a long time can take its toll. Luckily, the Vikings cast and atmosphere on set were incredible and we all became close friends. Otherwise, it would have been a very long and demanding job! On a film, an actor often only works on set for a few weeks. Besides these practical aspects, I don’t believe that TV and film are so different anymore. Not least, many of the world’s greatest film makers are now producing movies for TV since there is more money and artistic freedom.

And the environmental causes you support? I am a fierce advocate for

As a Finnish actor, how did it feel to be cast in the movie BlacKkKlansman and how did you prepare for the role?

I have admired visionary filmmaker and human rights activist Spike Lee since I was a teenager. As a relatively unknown Finnish guy, to be cast as the villain in BlacKkKlansman was nuts. We just clicked at my audition and were immediately on the same page. I will be forever grateful to Spike for giving me a chance to work on this film which, in my opinion, is not only a powerful movie but also an incredibly important political statement about today’s world.

JUHA MUSTONEN; @THEFLYFISHINGNATION

How was working with Spike Lee? Spike

is the best. He knows exactly what he wants, he is efficient, he is fast and, most importantly, he is a blast to work with. There are always lots of laughs on set with Spike. You play ‘Seppo’ in Spike Lee’s latest American war drama, Da 5 Bloods. Tell us about the movie and your role? Da 5

Bloods is a highly political and timely

film principally about the return of four African American vets to Vietnam to find the remains of their fallen friend and the buried gold fortune he helped them hide. My character, ‘Seppo’, is a member of the LAMB land mine removal outfit. My role is much smaller than it was in BlacKkKlansman, but when Spike called to ask whether I wanted to shoot a film with him in Thailand, I didn’t hesitate for one second! Away from acting, you’re a keen flyfisherman? Fly-fishing is my number one

passion, more so than acting or anything else for that matter. I am lucky to be able to travel to some incredible, off-thebeaten track locations to fish. Places that no one would travel to, like the Bolivian jungle where I hiked and fished with the local Tsimané tribe, some remote corners of the Russian tundra where I fished for Atlantic Salmon, and the outer atolls of the Lakshadweep islands.

removing dams. The fact that many people still consider hydroelectric power environmentally friendly and green is absurd. How can an energy source that has destroyed the majority of world’s rivers be labelled ‘green’? Dams worsen the impact of climate change, release greenhouse gases, deprive ecosystems of nutrients, destroy natural habitats and displace poor communities. Every chance I have, I try to educate people about the damaging effects of hydroelectric power. Can you name something positive about the coronavirus pandemic? The travel

and hospitality industries have taken a massive hit courtesy of the pandemic. But it is clear that the planet has benefitted from a much-needed break. Moving forwards, I believe that our travel habits will change dramatically, and the new luxury will be isolation, remoteness and peace and quiet in destinations which have a strong emphasis on eco-tourism. What’s the next destination on your ‘hot list’? I would love to visit Bhutan

because it looks like a magical and fascinating country.

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B OA R D I N G PA S S

the retires from our skies A S M A N Y OF THE WORLD’S CA RRIERS RETIRE THEIR F L E E T S O F B O E I N G 747 S , T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R LOOK S BACK AT MORE TH A N FI V E DECA DES OF THE GA ME - CH A NGING JUMBO JET TH AT DEFINED L O N G - H A U L A I R T R AV E L A N D S E T T H E PA T H F O R M O D E R N C O M M E R C I A L AV I A T I O N ➤

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AFFECTIONATELY KNOWN AS the Queen of the Skies, the double-decker plane with the humped fuselage is one of the world’s most recognisable aircraft and has been criss-crossing our skies for more than half a century, making flying more affordable for travellers. It was more than fifty years ago on 30th September 1968 that Boeing unveiled its new 747 wide bodied jetliner to the world, in the north-east corner of Paine Field near Everett in Washington state. Named the City of Everett, it was the world’s largest civilian airplane, its debut was a glamorous affair and every airline wanted to be part of this milestone in the evolution of air travel. It all started in August 1965 when Pan Am – Boeing’s biggest customer and the most influential international airline of the time – wanted a jet capable of carrying upwards of 400 passengers. Pan Am had already launched two large airliners – Boeing’s 707 and Douglas’s DC-8 – each capable of carrying around 140 passengers. But Pan Am now wanted a really huge aircraft to move air travel into the next generation. Had it been up to Pan Am’s founder, Juan Trippe, the new aircraft may well have been a double-decker version of Boeing’s single aisle 707, since he pushed the plane’s designers to come up with a two-storey configuration. It took a Boeing executive’s initiative, at a meeting in a Pan Am boardroom, to persuade Trippe to go for Boeing’s second idea: a twin aisled plane which

became known as the widebody. Boeing’s 747 was designed at a time when the airline industry expected supersonic transport to be the future of commercial air travel. The world’s first supersonic aircraft, the Sovietdesigned Tupolev Tu-144, had made its maiden flight in 1968. And the Anglo-French Concorde took to the air a few months later. So, because experts predicted that the 747 would have a short lifespan as a passenger jet, eventually giving way to supersonic aircraft, Boeing’s designers futureproofed the jumbo by engineering it to carry cargo. Requiring Boeing to risk much of its net worth to develop, it took 75,000 engineering drawings, 50,000 employees and 29 months from conception to rollout to produce the first 747. Bringing to life, back in the ‘60s, a jet which was taller than a six-storey building, with a takeoff weight of more than 300 tons, was a formidable and costly undertaking. Yet on 9th February 1969, the world’s then-largest passenger aircraft took off from Everett for its maiden flight over western Washington. The aircraft’s flight test program lasted ten months, required more than 1,500 hours of flying and used five different ‘planes. The 747 was eventually

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certified for commercial service in December 1969. The 747’s interior was developed in association with Seattle-based firm Teague, Boeing’s long-time cabin design partner. It was the first plane to have almost vertical sidewalls and a high ceiling, giving passengers a sense of space and openness. Instead of a long, thin tube, the main cabin was split up into rooms, with galleys and lavatories acting as dividers. It’s a shape that has since defined long-haul air travel. ➤

B OA R DIN G PA S S

It took 75,000 engineering drawings, 50,000 employees and 29 months to produce the first 747

Clockwise from top left: The first Boeing 747 takes its maiden test flight in 1969; Boeing 747-121 RA001 on public display at Paine Field in 1968; Early examples of the Boeing 747

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A 1980 advertisement for Cathay Pacific’s 747 first class cabin; Below: An early Boeing 747

ON 21ST JANUARY 1970, Pan Am flew passengers on the first commercial 747 flight from New York to London. Spiral staircases connected the two decks. Widescreen movies were played in the cabins. People had room to breathe and move around and first-class passengers lounged upstairs. When the 747 went into service was a time of major societal change, when people were just waking up to the possibilities that air travel offered. So, the new, spacious and social aircraft quickly drove an incredible growth in air travel, tourism and connections between people around the world, and quite literally revolutionised air travel. With its four engines, the 747 also represented a significant technological leap forward. It was faster and could travel further, using less fuel than any previous jet. It had a range of

6,000 miles and could carry more than twice as many passengers as the largest airliner previously in use. In 1968, Pan Am placed an order worth more than USD500 million for twenty-five of the 747. It was the largest order in the history of commercial aviation. However, despite the initial excitement, the 747 wasn’t an immediate success, partly due to the economic downturn that began in 1969. But as the economy slowly recovered so did the fortunes of the 747, which soon became an airline status symbol and the flagship for every major carrier.

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Within a relatively short space of time, any airline which didn’t have a 747 in its fleet was considered to be second-class. In its first year, a fully loaded 747 cut the cost of flying a passenger by half, making flying much more accessible to more people. The jumbo also allowed airlines to reach new destinations, while achieving greater profitability by lowering operating costs per seat. It has to be said that the 747 pretty much ruled the skies for the next four decades, during which the big Boeing was joined in the long-haul wide-body

B OA R DIN G PA S S

market by offerings from McDonnell Douglas, Lockheed and Airbus. Transoceanic and long-distance routes were exclusively covered by the 747 and its fellow three or four-engined widebody jumbos, not least because, when it came to the engine count on an airliner, the thinking was that there was safety in numbers. Jumbo jets could also carry the most passengers, of course. In late 1971, Boeing followed up the original 747-100 with a new 200 variant which boasted more powerful engines and a longer range, making it even more cost effective to operate. But

Spiral staircases connected the two decks. People had room to breathe and move around some airlines preferred its passengers to party at 30,000 feet and reduced capacity rather than maximise it! American Airlines removed sixty seats from its fleet of luxury 747s in order to build a lounge large enough to fit both a piano and a bar that served complimentary cocktails. Meanwhile,

Continental equipped its 747 fleet with a flying pub serving complimentary booze, complete with arcade-style games. These redesigns were largely the result of the lifting of the airline industry’s longstanding two-drink in-flight limit, which freed passengers to imbibe as much as they wanted on-board. ➤

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Right and below: Boeing 747-8 InterContinental

A DECADE LATER, after a number of studies which looked at increasing the aircraft’s seating capacity, Boeing introduced the 747-300 model. Its distinctive, stretched upper deck could seat up to 69 economy class passengers. But the 300 series didn’t prove to be as popular as Boeing would have liked, so in October 1985 the 747-400 was introduced. Featuring modern avionics, including a two-crew digital flight deck, a fully glass cockpit and a longer range, it was the best-selling model of the 747 family and more than 600 were sold. In 2005, Boeing launched the latest version of its iconic jumbo jet, called the 747-8 Intercontinental. At a few inches over 250-feet long, it is the longest airliner in the sky. A special version of the 747 has been used as the American President’s Air Force One jet since 1990. Another specially adapted version was used to carry space shuttles for NASA. In total, Boeing has delivered more than 1,500 747 passenger jets in the past half

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

Left: Space shuttle Atlantis being transported on a Boeing 747; Right: Air Force One

B OA R DIN G PA S S

Last month, Boeing confirmed that the very last 747 would roll out of its factory in 2022

century, which is something of a feat for an aircraft that was designed in the 1960s. As aviation regulations have changed and jet engine technology has improved, making it safer for aircraft to fly long distances with just two engines, for a few years there has been virtually no demand for new passenger 747s or new Airbus A380s. And just last month, Boeing confirmed that the very last 747 would roll out of its factory in 2022. Today, as the coronavirus pandemic continues to grip the planet and the aviation industry reels from the catastrophic effects, numerous airlines â&#x20AC;&#x201C; including Qantas, British Airways, Air France â&#x20AC;&#x201C; have retired their ageing 747 fleets and so far fewer of the iconic jets remain in service. Yet, while spotting a Queen of the Skies is surely becoming rarer, the regal jetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s place in aviation history is undoubtedly assured, and she will forever be known as the game changing plane that democratized modern, global, long-haul air travel.

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the ultimate tonic for D AW N G I B S O N F OL L OW S I N T H E F O O T S T E P S OF THE BEATLES IN RISHIK ESH, ON THE BA NK S OF THE REV ERED GANGES, TO ACQUIRE A DEEPER CU LT U R A L U N DER STA N DI NG OF NORT H ER N I N DI A

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

D E S T I N AT I O N NO SHOES REQUIRED

the soul

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HE UNSETTLING NATURE of the coronavirus pandemic and uncertainty it has wrought makes real relaxation more important than ever before. Well before the current crisis, our fastpaced modern lives meant that taking time off from the daily grind was key to maintaining a good work-life balance and using down time wisely was vital. In recent years, it’s unsurprising that mountain retreats and countryside sanctuaries have become so popular, welcoming thousands of stressed-out city dwellers, year-in-year-out, enticed by the lure of a break from the rigours of living a metropolitan lifestyle. But for those tired of typical retreats and looking for a more intense respite from the everyday, visiting an ashram in India has become a regular means to challenge oneself and get a refreshed perspective on life. A dedicated centre for meditation, yoga and spiritual awakening, traditionally presided over by a religious guru and his disciples, ashrams have existed in India for thousands of years and provide a safe and stress-free environment for intense inner reflection and addressing life’s bigger questions. However, for the uninitiated, visiting an ashram is not to be entered into carelessly, since it is indeed a challenging experience, from both a physical and a mental point of view. This said, the number of people who return to

The Beatles with Maharishi Mahesh Yogi in Rishikesh

NO SHOES REQUIRED RISHIKESH

India year after year to visit ashrams is a glowing testimony to the relevance of this ancient practice to our increasingly stressful lives. While there are countless ashrams throughout India, I was lured to Rishikesh in the northern state of Uttarakhand, the self-proclaimed yoga capital of the world. From New Delhi itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a 50-minute flight to Jolly Grant Airport (DED) at Dehradun, followed by a 20-kilometre taxi ride to Rishikesh. A pilgrim destination for centuries, The Beatles put Rishikesh on the adventure tourism map when they travelled to Northern India in February 1968 to attend an advanced transcendental meditation course at the ashram of Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, writing much of the material for their legendary White Album during their visit. â&#x17E;¤

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Though the ashram that hosted the Fab Four is now in ruins, Rishikesh itself continues to thrive. The Hindu faithful flock to the banks of the Ganges at dawn and dusk to bathe in its soul cleansing waters, which are visibly much less polluted here than in towns downstream. Sadhus (holy men) in their distinctive bright orange robes sit watching passersby with eagle-sharp eyes, while sacred cows wander amongst the new age tourists and crowds of women bedecked in jewel-coloured saris. Numerous vegetarian restaurants and cafés line the river, named in honour of Buddha or Shiva, together with stalls selling decorated statues of gods in bronze, jade and plastic. Alcohol and meat are banned in Rishikesh. Named after its patron deity – Tryambakeshwar, or the Three-eyed Lord – unmissable 13-storey Tryambakeshwar Temple (aka Tera Manzil Mandir) is almost certainly Rishikesh’s most famous building. Shaped like a pyramid, it contains shrines to dozens of Hindu gods and is designed in such a way that visitors end up seeing most of them on the way up. ONE CANNOT WANDER FAR IN RISHIKESH without chancing upon signs advertising yoga classes of all variations, catering to every skill level. If you just wish to dip

your toe in, metaphorically speaking, classes are available at most of the town’s hotels on a pay-as-you-go basis. It is worth investigating several ashrams personally before signing-up for a course, since the quality of accommodation and what’s on offer varies dramatically. One ashram I visited had rooms so spartan that they could have passed as prison cells, with shared toilet facilities that any decent prisoners’ union would surely protest about. Another had a 4.30am daily wake-up call – an experience I decided I could do without. Some ashrams offer free classes while others operate on a donation basis. Basically, some proper research is needed before booking any course, and the Himalayan Yoga Academy is a good place to start ➤ www.yogaacademy.in I chose a seven-day course, with meals and accommodation included, at Shri Sant Sewa Ashram near Lakshman Jhula, one of the two pedestrian bridges. Rooms are basic but clean and functional, with the largest sporting balconies overlooking the river, providing a prime viewing spot for the powerful and spiritually uplifting Ganga Aarti candle ceremony, every evening, as dusk descends. ➤ Above: Tryambakeshwar Temple, Rishikesh; Left: Lakshman Jhula foot bridge

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MY COURSE INCLUDED TWO HOURS OF HATHA YOGA each morning and evening, followed by an hour of meditation. Hatha yoga, a very popular branch of the ancient practice, was developed in the 15th century and draws upon traditions that date back to at least 200 BC. Asanas (physical postures) and pranayama (breathing exercises) are used to bring balance and peace to the mind and body, as well as preparing the body for deeper spiritual practices such as meditation. Yogis believe that each asana has specific health benefits, ranging from improving digestion to reducing aches and pains and even curing sexual problems. While I had taken a few yoga classes in the past, it did little to prepare me for the intensity of my first day at the ashram. Even though the classes were advertised as ‘beginners’ yoga’, my body protested mightily as yogi Kamal Pandey encouraged me to manoeuvre spine and limbs through ‘the camel’, ‘the cobra’ and ‘the mountain’. After four hours of practice, I was unsure which part of me was more fatigued. So, it was almost inevitable that the following meditation session was a bit of a failure. Instead of closing my eyes and taking a mental journey to a temple to meet God, as I was supposed to be doing, I was soon dozing on my mat. When I eventually opened my eyes, I was secretly pleased that I had not been the only one to have nodded off in our small group of eight participants. I also wondered whether a vegetarian diet would be enough to sustain my body until the end of the week! There were more tests of endurance to come. In keeping with hatha yoga’s philosophy of bodily purification, I was expected to perform morning rituals that escalated in difficulty. The first purification ritual, kunjal kriya, almost had me heading for the door. Dr Pandey (a wiry gentleman, who had been teaching yoga and naturopathy for decades) told us that he wanted us to ‘give back his water’. This essentially necessitated swallowing as much lukewarm salt-water that my stomach would allow, before vomiting the mixture back up. This detoxifying yoga technique helps to not only cleanse but also strengthen one’s

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

NO SHOES REQUIRED RISHIKESH

Above: Ganga Aarti candle ceremony

digestive system, especially the oesophagus and stomach. Although it sounds absolutely revolting, the ritual became more palatable as the days went by. Yes – really. I found the initial revulsion faded with repetition, especially as I was doing it on an empty stomach. While I never really got to grips with the rituals, the asanas did get easier and I found my flexibility improve to a level I had not experienced since my teenage years. I even managed the upward bow pose – urdhva dhanurasana – something I thought I would never achieve, and as I packed to depart, I undoubtedly looked visibly healthier and slimmer. Upon leaving the ashram, back into the bustle of Rishikesh’s streets with their cows and sadhus, I vowed to return. It had definitely been a different sort of travel adventure, quite literally a world away from the tropical beaches I had favoured for unwinding. But reaching a level of relaxation that I had never previously experienced was almost certainly something I would want to enjoy again in the future.

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IN C O N V E R S AT I O N WITH

bill bensley

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

H O S P I TA L I T Y

T H E CU LT U R ED T R AV E L L E R S I T S D OW N W ITH THE RENOW NED BA NGKOK-BA SED HOTEL DESIGNER WHO H AS M ASTERMINDED MORE TH AN 200 ON E - OF-A-K I N D LU X U RY PROPERTIES IN DOZENS OF COUNTRIES, A ND INJECTED FUN, GL A MOUR A ND STORY TELLING BACK INTO THE HOSPITA LIT Y INDUSTRY

➸

ISSY CROKER

You were a landscape architect before becoming an interior and hotel designer. What prompted the change in direction?

My first projects in Asia focused on landscape and often our gardens were used as a balm to cover up the mistakes of architects. I thought we could do better. So, in 1995, when Four Seasons Langkawi was on our gardening boards and my classmate Lek Bunnag was the architect, I just assumed that we were also the interior designers. Without a contract, we just produced the interior designs, presented them to the owners and we were in. Another step was working with Jeffrey A. Wilkes on The Oberoi Udaivilas in India. I have Jeffrey to thank for teaching me what I know today about interiors.

Which property was your first hotel design success story?

Although not the first success, I would say that Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle in Chiang Rai really put us in the spotlight. It was named Condé Nast Traveler’s best hotel in the world three years in a row. With only 15 rooms, each selling for USD3,000 a night, it has already paid for itself many times over. The idea was a high yield low impact hotel which saved elephants from the nasty streets of Bangkok. There is an incredible uniqueness to your properties and an inherent sense of fun not found in hotels designed by others. Where does this stem from?

Our motto at Bensley is the Balinese Lebih Gila, Lebih Baik, in other words, the odder the better. So, if it’s not fun, ➤

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Bensley Collection Shinta Mani Wild

Bill at work

I am driven to use hospitality for purposeful objectives like conservation we simply don’t do it. This love of fun and a spot of madness seeps into every project we do, be it a rather serious city hotel or a bonkers beach property. In general, playfulness and creativity come naturally to me. Which hospitality-oriented designers do you admire and do you take inspiration from anyone?

I absolutely take inspiration from people. I think Kelly Wearstler is a rock star of interior design and I just love the work of Kit Kemp. Frank Lloyd Wright is another hero of mine, in that he could design everything from teaspoons to cities to perfection. What is researched when building in a new region or country which is unfamiliar?

The history, the stories a location has to tell and the local architectural

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vernacular. I often begin researching in places of worship, because that’s where societies generally pour money and craftsmanship into and there is a great deal to learn from them. We do a deep dive into a place’s history and people, find the most interesting characters and bring their stories to life.

Now I want to design unique pretty hotels with a purpose for at this point it is no longer about just putting heads on beds, it is about teaching people something new and, most of all – for this is something we weave into every project – teaching sustainability and conservation. This is most important to me.

What are your main aims when designing a hotel for a client?

You’re renowned for being committed to societal sustainability?

To build with a purpose. These days I only embark upon projects that have a real meaning. It can be as simple as the education of a guest about a certain part of local history, to as complex as educating a village of children about dental care. I am driven to use hospitality for purposeful objectives like conservation, wildlife protection, higher education or making cleaner water available for the less fortunate. I have designed lots of unique pretty hotels.

Over the past two decades, the Shinta Mani Foundation in Cambodia, started by Sokoun Chanpreda and I, has taught us to offer a hand up but never a handout. We have been helping with housing, wells, cleaner water, small loans to start micro businesses, education and dentistry for children. We empower Cambodians to help themselves. Along the way we have built numerous houses, dug hundreds of wells, administered dentistry for children, distributed

ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

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Four Seasons Langkawi

water filters and organised small loans for start-ups. We run a hotel school for 30 young adults every year and a farm that distributes plants to the community. Shinta Mani hotels work with the foundation and a small percentage of each room sale to fund the work. Sometimes it doesn’t take all that much and this is something that more hotels need to integrate into their operations. Community outreach is essential. Notwithstanding the coronavirus pandemic, why would you say that seasoned globetrotters are more interested in experiential travel these days?

Anyone can stay at a hotel, go to a pool and see some nice monuments. It is not going to make an interesting postcard, nor a popular Instagram post and you are probably not going to learn anything. But, ziplining into the lobby of your hotel

and then accompanying anti-poaching rangers on their patrol, and being on the front lines of conservation? Those are experiences globetrotters want to have! It’s about learning, being part of something and taking it with you when you leave. What has been your most ambitious and challenging project to date?

Shinta Mani Wild, by far. Not only because of the tents built in seemingly impossible natural locations, without harming so much as a single tree, but because of the purpose of camp which was built as a sustainable way to protect the forest and wildlife from loggers and poachers. We work with Wildlife Alliance and have built their seventh ranger station on the property. The rangers are armed, can enforce Cambodia’s laws and can – most importantly – prosecute offenders. Guests are invited to join them on their patrols and almost every time

The Oberoi Udaivilas

find snares, chainsaws or catch offenders red-handed. During the pandemic, despite the camp being closed, we have continued our fiscal support of USD6,000 per month to keep the daily patrols going since they are critically important. What was your thought process behind acquiring the 1,400 acres of Cambodian forest which is now home to Shinta Mani Wild?

It was purchased as part of a government sale of logging land, saving it from becoming a titanium mine. It included some 875,000 trees, 4.5 kilometres of wild river and three waterfalls. It was clear to me that we had to protect this corridor of rainforest – which is the size of New York’s Central Park – in what is now the biggest and last great forest in Southeast Asia. So, we created a high-yield low-impact camp, its main mission being to sustainably support the policing of the forest via Wildlife Alliance. We fund the alliance’s work via 15 luxury tents. So far, we have confiscated almost 3,000 chainsaws and protected hundreds of hectares. I think we are quite close to the vision: a tented camp that welcomes travellers who care about mother earth; protecting the ➤

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Left: Bensley Collection Shinta Mani Siem Reap; Above: JW Marriott Phu Quoc

We created a hotel that was the reconstruction of my dream university forest for future generations; teaching locals to be stewards of their beautiful land, and running a sustainable model of protection and conservation that will remain long after I am gone. Tell us about the design of Shinta Mani Wild’s tents and the eclectic mix of antiques and objets d’art they are filled with.

The guiding DNA we followed when designing Shinta Mani Wild was, “what would it have been like to be here on safari with Jackie O and King Sihanouk, during her Cambodian travels of 1967?” Jackie and King Sihanouk each have a tent dedicated to them, as well as Conservationist’s

and National Geographic tents, King Jayavarman’s tent and more honouring the forest’s many natural inhabitants. The accessories and artwork are unique to each tent’s character and comprise upcycled pieces and antiques sourced from all over the world, proving that everything in a hotel need not be new! Is your creativity at all stifled when you’re working on a project for a big hotel brand?

Brand standards have a way of trying to dumb things down, so it has happened. But we push back and, on most things, especially the most important, we generally get our way. When we started working on the JW Marriott Phu Quoc –

or, as I call it, Lamarck University – there was some scepticism. We created a hotel that was the reconstruction of my dream university, inspired by JeanBaptise Lamarck [Darwin’s predecessor] and dedicated to the study of all things natural. At first, the idea of a universitystyled hotel led to words like ‘theme park’ and ‘Disney” being thrown around. But as soon as the mock-up was built the quality, detail and sophistication of our designs shone through. Naysayers went quiet and it remains one of our most profitable projects in South East Asia, and through its whimsy is a firm favourite with Instagrammers. What differs when designing a hotel in which you’re a financial stakeholder?

It is a whole lot more fun because I get to play around more, push the experience we offer to the limits, and make it all the things I would want most out of a hotel experience. That being ➤

Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle

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Where the wild things are

Two unrivalled experiences in the Kingdom of Cambodia Embark on a unique journey with Bensley Collection

Bensley Collection - Shinta Mani Wild: Cambodia’s most unique tented camp experience From the exhilarating moment of arrival via a 400m zip line, there is no such thing as a typical day at this eco-luxury tented camp nestled deep in the Cambodian jungle. Experience the Cardamom forest in total comfort as your Bensley Adventure Butler tailors each adventure to your taste: from cruising along the backwaters, foraging with our resident chef, or joining Wildlife Alliance rangers in vital conservation work.

Bensley Collection - Shinta Mani Siem Reap: Serenity in the heart of Angkor Tucked awayunder the shade of Royal Residence’s gardens, each spacious pool villa offers the utmost comfort and privacy, from the outdoor bathtub and rain shower to the private rooftop terrace for star gazing. From high walled facades with intricate Khmer designs to the oversized lap pool, these 156sqm art deco-inspired villas raise the bar of luxury: complete with your Bensley Butler to ensure a flawless stay.

Book now...

www.bensleycollection.com

wild@shintamani.com

+ 855-63-969-234

The finer details… Bensley Experience inclusions are based on minimum 3 nights stay at both hotels. Offer is valid all year round except for peak period. Accommodation and inclusions are for up to two persons sharing one room, additional guest will be charged accordingly. Hotel credit must be used during stay, and is non-transferable nor redeemable for cash and other services. One way domestic flight in economy class will be arranged on guests’ behalf at discretion of the hotel. Transfers between airport to/from hotel are by private car, helicopter transfer is available at additional cost. Daily laundry service excludes dry cleaning. Upgrade to Waterfall Tent is subject to availability at time of booking. As per Wild policy guest must be 10 years and above. Rates are subject to government taxes and service charge and availability at time of booking. Offer not combinable with other promotions. Normal booking terms and conditions apply. Hotel reserves the right to withdraw the offer without prior notice.

Left: Caption; Artist’s impression of WorldWild in China; Below: Hôtel de la Coupole

said, the Bensley Collection hotels were also the hardest projects I have ever built, since it is so much easier to spend someone else’s money! Is offering a sense of escapism a USP of Bensley Collection hotels?

I would say so, yes. Bensley Collection hotels are firmly rooted in their locations and tell the stories of Siem Reap and the Cardamom Forest in a totally new way. For instance, at Bensley Collection Shinta Mani Siem Reap, each villa’s walls are covered with mouldings inspired by the robes of Khmer King Jayavarman. It’s a completely new take on Khmer art. What’s more, each villa has its own private pool, garden and rooftop terrace to sleep under the stars. Guests are mere steps away from the city and the temples but have their own haven to escape into. What would you like guests to take home after staying at a Bensley Collection hotel?

I hope that they pushed their boundaries, learnt something about Cambodia and learnt something new about themselves. Most of all I hope that they learnt about conservation and spread the word on their return. What’s been your most treasured find while scouring the planet?

I am particularly fond of a 1930s Vietnamese bamboo hat covered with white and watermelon polka dots, found in Paris some six years ago while ferreting the less posh streets of north

Paris. That little treasure inspired an entire hotel - the Hôtel de la Coupole in Sapa, Vietnam in that I based the hotel’s story on how local hill-tribes influenced Paris haute couture in the early 20th Century. Name something in hospitality that really excites you?

True, real sustainability, rather than greenwashing. And unique stories which teach travellers something new. Everyone has designed something they now wish they hadn’t! What’s yours?

I once built a yellow submarine on the

Artist’s impression of Intercontinental Khao Yai Swan Lake Resort

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bottom of a swimming pool in Singapore. Gosh, what a disaster that was! What projects are you currently working on?

One of my favourites is WorldWild, which began when we were approached by a good client to design a zoo with 2,000plus hotel rooms on a huge chunk of land in southern China’s Guangdong province. After visiting as many zoos and animal parks as I could in China, I went back to my client with the idea to dedicate 95 percent of his land for animals to run free and five percent of the land for people to observe animals but stay confined to that five percent in “jails” for people, in other words, hotels, which in this case will involve Conrad and Hilton. My dream is that the mistreated animals of overpopulated zoos in China can run free here. I want to set an example that gives animals the respect they deserve.

H O S P I TA L I T Y

This pandemic has made us all think about travel more deeply

Another is Intercontinental Khao Yai Swan Lake Resort which is opening later this year. It’s essentially a train station tucked away in the mountains of north-east Thailand, two hours from Bangkok, which offers an escape into a wildlife-rich landscape, with upcycled abandoned train carriages converted into sumptuous guest rooms. Where does Bill Bensley go to unwind?

I retreat to my home Baan Botanica in Bangkok, a jungle in the city, and paint up a storm! Every weekend is spent either wandering the city’s antique stores and markets or painting friends in my wild gardens. My painting studio is a favourite retreat.

Huka Lodge in New Zealand; Hoshinoya in Kyoto; Ballyfin in Ireland and Mombo Camp in Botswana. All of these are hands-down heart-stopping! Somewhere you return to, year-afteryear, to holiday?

I visit Mongolia every year and take my Thai staff that have never seen real wilderness. I camp Mongolian style for two to three weeks and love to fly-fish with barbless hooks. No cell reception. No emails. I catch 500-plus trout and never see another person. That’s luxury. And to see the faces of young Thai people when they catch their first ever fish is priceless.

Your favourite hotel in the world to stay which was not designed by you?

Can you name a positive way in which the current coronavirus pandemic has affected travelling and holidaying?

There are quite a few: Awasi in the Atacama Desert in the north of Chile;

Pre-Covid-19, I travelled 30 weeks a year and would jump on a plane at the

drop of a hat. Now I am grounded, I have realised that I was flying too much and didn’t need to. Ordinarily I would take a plane to fill a ballroom with drawings to make a presentation. Now, after a few months of Zoom, I have realised that all of the props might have been unnecessary. In addition, I think this pandemic has made us all think about travel more deeply. In light of all the restrictions we will surely travel less, but we will also be more selective as to where we go, and hopefully invest in holidays that are more environmentally friendly and experience driven. These are pluses for our world. Where to next? As soon as we’re all allowed to travel again!

I have visited almost 100 countries. Next I would love to explore Zimbabwe, Gabon, Tanzania, Madagascar and Ethiopia.

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sri lanka’s natural fro ALEX BENASULI EXPLORES REMOTE GAL OYA N A T I O N A L PA R K – A N U N T A M E D N A T U R A L H A B I T A T A N D O N E O F S R I L A N K A’ S L A S T U N S P O I LT

ELISE HASSEY

F RON T I ER S T O GEN T LY OPEN U P T O V ISI T OR S

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ISSUE 31 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2020

last ntier

RI LANKA IS A NATURE LOVER’S paradise. From countless beaches with legendary surf to dense jungle and cool hilltop tea plantations, this relatively small island nation packs a lot of punch when it comes to cultural and environmental diversity. In recent years, Sri Lanka has become increasingly renowned for its national parks. Numbering more than two dozen, they cover almost ten percent of the nation’s land mass. Coupled with its own “Big Five” (leopards, elephants, sloth

D E S T I N AT I O N SPOTLIGHT

bears, blue whales and sperm whales) and a vast amount of flora and fauna unique to the island, Sri Lanka’s parks have made the island a must visit destination for nature lovers – both amateur and die hard. Unfortunately, this popularity has rendered many of Sri Lanka’s national parks routinely overrun, especially during high season when queues of jeeps filled with impatient, time-constrained tourists inevitably take their toll on the island’s animals and infrastructure. But for those seeking a raw, more remote and less-frequented slice of the natural world, unlike any other in Sri Lanka, Gal Oya National Park beckons. ➤

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LOCATED OFF THE TOURIST TRAIL in Sri Lanka’s densely forested eastern hinterland, around 350 kilometres from the country’s main airport, what makes Gal Oya so special is its freshwater and savannah-dominated habitat. Created in 1956, Gal Oya National Park was formed around Senanayake Samudraya, the largest man-made lake in the country and a catchment point for numerous streams and rivers. Combined with the surrounding grass lands, the topography is more reminiscent of the African plains than the typical Sri Lankan pastiche of jungle and mountains. The year-round water and grasses are the perfect breeding ground for all sorts of animals. Birds particularly love it. Waterlurking avian species including storks, egrets and cranes are plentiful, as are Sri Lanka’s largest birds, the lesser adjutant and the red-faced malkoha. Raptors including the white-bellied sea eagle and grey-headed fish eagle regularly patrol the skies in majestic formations and swoop dramatically to the water’s surface in search of prey. The relatively open horizon of the lakes, small islands and grasslands make Gal Oya a paradise for bird watchers. It turns out that this ever-present source of water and grasslands is also an ideal habitat for elephants. Their numbers may have decreased over generations, but Sri Lanka

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SPOTLIGHT G A L O YA

still has an elephant population of around five thousand. In most parts of the country, elephants are migratory, moving around with the shifts from the dry to wet seasons in search of water and food. But many elephants have made a year-round home of the islands dotted throughout Senanayake Samudraya reservoir, while visiting elephants have found a safe and stable source of sustenance. The forested mountains, rocky out crops and surrounding jungle that make up Gal Oya are home to all sorts of other animals including leopards, sloth bears, wild boar and a variety of monkeys, including the toque macaque which is native to the region. Due to the vastness and density of the terrain, this animal world can remain elusive to the human eye, except under the charge of local tribesmen and guides. Even then, chance is a factor. It is said that the Buddhangala section of Gal Oya was visited by the Buddha on the last of his three visits to Sri Lanka in the second century BC. Temple ruins mark the spot, bestowing on Gal Oya a somewhat mystical reputation. The park’s remoteness has also contributed to it being the last domain of the Vedda people – the only indigenous tribe still in existence in Sri Lanka. Dating back to the sixth century BC, the last handfuls of the hunter-gatherer Veddas live in Gal Oya’s forested parts.

UNTIL RELATIVELY RECENTLY, accommodation options in Gal Oya were extremely limited and somewhat basic. The remoteness and lack of tourist infrastructure had rendered this part of the country almost off-limits, except to the most intrepid of travellers. So when Gal Oya Lodge opened in 2015, the allure of visiting this national treasure changed overnight. Taking advantage of its remote jungle setting and striking just the right hospitality chord, with plentiful creature comforts and stylish touches to create the perfect base from which to experience the park, to stay at Gal Oya Lodge is to be immersed in deeply rural, off-the-grid natural Sri Lanka at its best. Carved out of thick jungle vegetation and mountainous terrain, the lodge is a forty five-minute drive from the nearest hamlet and mobile phone signal. For those for whom spending a few days in the wilderness is paradise – literally and figuratively cut-off from the real world – this is the place. ➤

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The last ten minutes of the drive take visitors down a bumpy dirt track, deep into the forest. A short walk later and you arrive at the main lodge, which is a double-height open air temple-like structure constructed out of wood and other natural materials. Crowned by a high, pitched thatched roof, the structure has seemingly been born of the surrounding vegetation. Over welcome drinks and a chilled face towel, it doesn’t take long to acclimatize to the sounds of bird song, howling monkeys and the breezes stirring through the jungle canopy that surround the property. Ten bungalows comprise the guest lodgings, also constructed from natural materials by local craftsmen employing building techniques passed down over generations. Semi-enclosed outdoor bathrooms and ample terraces – most with views over the mountains or forest – enhance the stay experience of being completely embraced by nature. Flashlights, bug repellant and mosquito nets are provided in each room. Staying at Gal Oya Lodge offers the opportunity to commune with untamed and raw Sri Lanka. WHILE STAYING AT GAL OYA LODGE is an adventure in itself, it is the opportunity to explore the surrounding park that is obviously the real draw. Lodge-planned excursions from the property are impeccably organised. For most, the highlight will be a water safari of Senanayake Samudraya reservoir to see elephants swimming and frolicking in the water and on the many islands nearby. The property’s guides are excellent and extremely passionate about conservation and sharing this littleknown part of their country with visitors. In a world with ever shrinking natural habitats, any opportunity to see wildlife in its element is truly breathtaking. Everything from a guided one-hour nature walk around the property’s twenty-acre private forest, to half- or full-day hikes can be arranged based on individual guest interests, be they bird watching, nocturnal exploring or more exhilarating pursuits. Hikes deep into the jungle or up mountains to ➤

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capture jaw-dropping panoramic views are often arranged. The lodge can also arrange visits with members of the indigenous Vedda community, whose knowledge of medicinal plants offers a window into how Sri Lankan ayurvedic practices evolved over thousands of years. OUTINGS FROM THE LODGE help to reinforce the area’s sense of remoteness. To have even built such a lodge is a feat of imagination, dedication and hard work. The property’s swimming pool surrounded by steep hills is a piece of aquatic heaven. The food served is an excellent combination of local and western cuisines. Senior staff act as charming hosts, more akin to long lost friends and relatives welcoming you into their home. Pre- and post dinner cocktails are opportunities to meet other guests and compare global travel notes and adventure tales. At almost six hours by car from Colombo’s airport, five hours

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SPOTLIGHT G A L O YA

from Galle or just over three hours from Kandy, Gal Oya Lodge is decidedly more off-the-beaten-track than most. If you have never been on a Sri Lankan road trip you are in for a treat. Throughout the country, the white silhouettes of Buddhist stupas are evident. Orange-clad monks meander through the streets to and from temples. Statues of Hindu deities are everywhere. The beginning and end of the school day sees students of all ages, with their rucksacks and cricket bats, spilling out onto the roads. Lush vegetation abounds. It is easy to see why so many people fall in love with Sri Lanka. The journey to Gal Oya is worth it. For those who are passionate about one-of-a-kind, down-to-earth wilderness experiences, right now there is no better place in all of Sri Lanka to be immersed in its unspoilt nature than Gal Oya Lodge and the stunning park surrounding it. â&#x17E;¤ www.galoyalodge.com

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culture

R A

N K I N

O V E R T H E PA S T F O U R D E C A D E S , T H E R E N O W N E D B R I T I S H M AGA ZINE PUBLISHER, FILMM AK ER AND PHOTOGRAPHER H A S SHOT SOME OF THE WORLDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MOST ICONIC FIGURES, P U B L I S H E D D O Z E N S O F B O O K S A N D T R AV E L L E D T H E G L O B E . R A N K I N T A L K S E XC LU S I V E LY T O T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

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THE FIRST TIME I LOOKED THROUGH THE LENS AND WATCHED AS THE PHOTOGRAPH CAME TOGETHER WAS LIKE MAGIC!

Tell us a little about young John Rankin Waddell’s childhood.

Initially, I grew up in Scotland. My parents were working class. However my father, having left school at 15, was very clever and went on to do very well. From Scotland we moved to Yorkshire and then to St. Albans just outside London. I grew up wrapped in cotton wool but with a strong moral compass. My parents gave me incredible self-belief. I guess I was the apple of their eye, so could do no wrong and was told I could do anything I wanted. I have never felt like something wasn’t achievable. id you have a particular interest in D cinema, film or photography as a k id?

Not really, but my dad was a big film fan, so we watched a lot of movies together. Saying that, I think BBC Two and then Channel 4 had a lot to do with my education. Public broadcasting is an incredible thing. You almost became an accountant?!

At school I was quite good at maths, careers advice was very traditional and I was told to go for accountancy. However, when I arrived at the halls of residence to start my accountancy foundation, I was placed in a house with lots of art students where seeds of doubt were sown.

for Easter, after my second term, and thinking that I didn’t want to do accountancy anymore. A mate of mine had a camera so we went out for the day taking pictures. The first time I looked through the lens and watched as the photograph came together in front of me was like magic! I got the bug there and then. That addiction has stayed with me ‘til today. I just love photography. How was your chosen creative c areer path handled by your family?

When I told my Dad, he went ballistic. ➤

hat first attracted you to W photography?

Around the age of 19, I was going out with a lovely girl called Samantha Jones who was studying fashion and we would look at magazines together. I thought, “Wow, wish I could create these types of images.” Then, when I went to college, I was very influenced by the art students in my halls of residence who were doing 12-hour weeks while I was doing 48-hour weeks. They were also having a lot more fun and questioning the world in a way which really appealed to me. I remember going back home

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Arnold Schwarzenegger

RANKIN PHOTOGRAPHY LTD.

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Quentin Crisp

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We didn’t speak to each other for about a year. However, I would never have chosen that path unless they had given me the confidence to follow my heart. My mum once said to me, “If you choose something you love, you’ll never work a day in your life.” I have always followed that advice. Funnily enough my Dad came round. He came to one of my shows and stood by my work for the evening. In the car, on the way home, he told me that I would either be incredibly successful or fail miserably. Whichever way it went, I had his blessing. I n the early days of your career, how did you afford to take photos?

Honestly, it was really tough. But I loved it with such a passion that I would do anything to pay for film, chemicals and paper. It was an addiction. I worked as a cleaner, a theatre porter at Edgware hospital and an usher in the local cinema. I was very lucky I was to find my path early on.

hat beliefs and qualities would you say W most come through in your work?

When I’m working, I am inquisitive and excited about life. A little bit like a puppy. I just love humans and the person in front of me. I think you can see that in my photographs. The other thread that runs through my work is trying to make the viewer/audience not only feel something but also think something. For example, when I shoot fashion or beauty work, there is always something conceptual behind it. our favourite photographers? Y In the early days and today.

Definitely Robert Doisneau, the Life photographers, Don McCullin. For portraiture, David Bailey, Richard Avedon and Irving Penn. Now, I’m just one big fan boy and always on the lookout for new talent! ➤

I DIDN ’T HAVE AN ARTISTIC FAMILY, SO I HAD NO INGRAINED TASTE

ell us about the themes of your first T photos and what, in your opinion, g ot them noticed?

Looking back, I think one of the most important things about my work is that it had no reference. I didn’t have an artistic family, so I had no ingrained taste. My taste came from reading books, watching films and going to galleries. When I went to the London College of Printing, I remember going into the library and just starting at the ‘A’ section and working my way through. All of this meant that my work was very raw, like a blank piece of paper. Back then I was influenced by people like Susan Sontag and John Berger and very confident in experimenting and exploring light. I was obsessed with light for years in fact, probably too much, and I was excited just to put images out into the world that were brash and confident. I was very into finding a way to express myself, my thoughts and my ideas.

Ewan McGregor

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Jude Law

any of your photos are edgy, deal M with duality and border on the surreal at times. What are the thought processes behind your work?

I have always loved creating a question, like “What am I looking at and why is it like this?” I’ve never wanted my images to be obvious, so I like playing with themes and exploring photography as a medium. I think that one of the most seductive elements in photography is to create intrigue and images that demand to be inspected. This can be very effective. I also love to laugh, so you’ll find a lot of humour in my work. any successful photographers’ M work just seeks to show the glamour, especially in fashion. This doesn’t

interest you, correct?

I’m very seduced by it but I don’t love the glamour like some photographers do. I want my photographs to have some meaning and I have an affinity for portrait photography, so I always want to forefront the models and sitters more than the clothes. For me, glamour is literally as deep as the paper it’s printed on. What’s Rankin’s spin on fashion photography?

I wish I knew! I get very intimidated by fashion photography and I’m not naturally very good at it compared to people like Nick Knight, David Simms, Glen Luchford or Mert and Marcus. I often get called a fashion photographer

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because I do editorials and have started magazines, but, truthfully, I would never describe myself as that. our job necessitates getting along Y with people quickly to photograph t hem. How do you achieve this?

I listen to them and try to collaborate rather than push or provoke. Having a good sense of humour is important. The main thing is trying to tune in to who they are, how they feel in that moment and what they want to get out of the session. Your most favourite subject to date?

There are too many to mention but I do love Heidi Klum and there’s a reason I’ve photographed her time and ➤

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Robert Downey Jr.

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Queen Elizabeth II

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time again over the almost 20 years we’ve known each other. She is always incredible fun to work with. Robert Downey Jr. is an absolute pleasure too, and one of the funniest people I’ve ever met. On set, both he and Ricky Gervais make me laugh so much. They are like joke machine guns. The humour comes so quickly you’re laughing at four jokes behind them. This type of energy makes it very exciting to be in a room with them. nd your most objectionable subject A to date?

I’ve learnt never to kiss and tell on record! But I will say that lots of people, including very famous people, don’t like having their photos taken. It can feel like you’re under a microscope. So we have to be empathetic to that. Plus, I only spend a few hours with each of my subjects. People have bad days, me included and I respect that. Dazed & Confused was very much your calling card. What prompted you to launch the magazine?

Jefferson and I had worked on two college magazines together. So, before we left the London College of Printing,

Derek Jacobi

Stephen Graham

we were quite experienced in how to make magazines work. We were very influenced by Malcolm McLaren and Andy Warhol. DIY culture really inspired us, so we thought let’s just do it ourselves. The name Dazed & Confused really summed up our state of mind at the time. Dazed & Confused became famous because of you and you became famous because of the magazine. How did this affect your career?

The magazine meant everything to me. We all gave it so much. In a way, the intensity kind of burnt us all out. The love of the magazine felt like a mission. To blow up the world. I just wish I’d taken a moment to take that in and enjoy the people I was doing it with. What I’m most proud of is the fact that the magazine still exists and it helped a lot of people along the way. This makes me feel like it was worth it. You used to have a bit of a reputation for being loud-mouthed and n aughty. What changed?!

I grew up, got married, got happy and I got myself some therapy. Thank god! re-pandemic, you must have crissP crossed the globe continuously to take photos. To date, which was your

favourite country to visit?

Cuba is definitely up there, as is Brazil. But what travelling always makes me realise is how much I love Britain. I actually get excited to come back. As I fly back into London I genuinely get dizzy with excitement. ow did you come to be commissioned H to take photos of the Queen for h er golden jubilee?

To be honest, I don’t know. At the time, I was represented by a picture agency called Camera Press which has, for years, looked after the Royal Archives. So it was probably something to do with that. How was the Queen?

Incredible. My respect for her is immense. She has a presence you can feel immediately. But she’s also a person, she laughs and is charming. W hilst your humanitarian images demonstrate a strong knowledge of documentary photography, they are also noticeably different to the norm. Tell us about your “Cheka Kidogo” images shot in the Congo in 2008 for Oxfam.

At the time, my theory was that we had seen enough images of people in Africa being victims, that narrative didn’t work, and we should treat all people as equals. I had an idea to ➤

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photograph the refugees as if they were celebrities. White backgrounds and major eye contact. I thought that placing them in front of a celebrity lens might make a difference to how we viewed them. ou’re a notoriously hard worker and Y detail driven. Is that still true today, does it get tiring at times and are you still as hungry?

I’m definitely still hungry and not afraid of hard work. But I have realised the importance of having time off. Recharging my batteries is important and helps me to be inspired. ou revel in providing a platform for Y young and emerging talent. Why is t his so important to you?

It started back with Dazed & Confused and has never gone away. I love seeing new ideas and get excited to share

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them with the world. I know my way of thinking and working isn’t the only way, so I use my platform to highlight others and promote people from all backgrounds. I n light of the #MeToo movement, the casting couch was probably p revalent in the photographic industry a few decades ago. How do you feel that models were treated back then?

Well, I actually did a couple of photo projects based on how I felt; one of them was called “Livestock”, which was a parody on how I felt models got treated. I photographed models in a farmyard, highlighting the idea that we treated models like bits of meat, not people. It has definitely improved a lot since then though. I used to hate it when someone would call a model “too big” or “not pretty enough” or look at them up-and-down in a disparaging and

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judgemental way. Now they have a voice and are using it, which is ace. It’s also really good to see that social media can be used for good. hotographing everyone from the P Queen of Pop to the Queen of England must have taught you an awful lot about people?

100% and I’m still learning, every day. What I have really learned is to never presume you know someone. I’ve been wrong about lots of people. Human beings are very complex and it is very important to respect that. Your incredible 2018 Portrait Positive campaign challenged perceptions of beauty via a series of striking images of women with visible facial and b odily differences. What prompted you to get involved in this project?

The women in this project were

INTERVIEW

Pete Doherty

awesome and it was such an empowering day for me. It’s always great to see the people I photograph get excited about the images. It’s really why I do what I do – to prompt those kinds of reactions. I’ve been doing projects like this my whole career. I’ve always

thought it was important to confront ideas of what people think is beautiful because it’s so subjective and can be very influenced by advertising and the media.

to the people who are shaping and changing our consciousness. Whether that be a writer, an activist, a politician or a comedian.

Is there anyone you would love to photograph but haven’t yet?

o mark 72 years of the NHS, you T recently took portraits of 12 NHS workers whose jobs have been critical in the current coronavirus crisis. H ow did this project come about?

I used to want to photograph everyone on the planet, so there are quite a few to go! At the moment I’m very drawn

I’ M DRAWN TO THE PEOPLE WHO ARE SHAPING AND CHANGING OUR CONSCIOUSNESS

This project will stay with me forever. As the coronavirus pandemic started unfolding, like many people, I faced lockdown unsure of what was going to happen and so grateful to the people who risked their lives on the front line every day. I wanted to find a way to say a real thank you to the dedicated NHS workers, to pay tribute to their efforts and also find a way to document who they are and their roles in fighting the virus. After spending some time ➤

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here does Rankin go in the world W to switch-off?

lthough I honestly find it hard to A switch-off I love going to Hampstead Heath. I can walk there from my studio and it’s my favourite place to walk the dogs and have a moment to think. For me, it’s not just about going to a location, it’s finding something to occupy my mind, so I love to dive into a book. o you feel like that you have more D work to produce – more to say?

Yes, I think I’ve got more to say now than ever. In some ways I feel that I’m only just getting going! hat advice would you give to a W talented young photographer trying to b reak into the industry today?

Björk

Never be satisfied with okay, keep pushing for excellent and brilliant. Don’t box yourself in by shooting on one medium, for it’s ridiculous to think that either one thing or another is the only way to work. Learn as much as you can every day. Keep being inquisitive and try hard not be arrogant. Respect the people around you now as they will be with you in 30 years. W hat’s your next project of note?

thinking about the project, I offered to capture 12 portraits, making sure that the project covered as wide a breadth as possible of NHS jobs. The shoots were unlike any I’d ever done before. With the disease spreading so quickly, we had to take precautionary measures to maintain the safety of everyone who took part. We were socially distanced during the whole process and during shooting the subjects and I were separated by a plastic sheet. It was incredibly surreal since I’d never worked that way before. Since my portrait process involves building a connection with my sitters, I had to figure out how to do this when I couldn’t even shake someone’s hand! Hearing stories of what it was like as an NHS worker at the peak of the pandemic made me incredibly

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thankful for the sacrifices people made and continue to make. Hearing the subjects laugh and tell me that they’d have words with me if I didn’t make them look like Kate Moss also created a human connection. I really hope the photographs show that every key worker is a hero. re you comfortable being at the A top of your game? Comfortable in your own skin?

Certain people believe strongly that once you’ve made it, that’s it. But for me, the only person I’m competing with these days is myself. I’m definitely comfortable with what I’ve achieved so far but this doesn’t mean that I want to give up. Physically I’ve never really felt comfortable in my own skin but I’ve just grown to accept it.

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I’m currently working on an ace book with Rizzoli called Play about my music photography. And I’m hopefully doing a museum show in Belgium next year.

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Debbie Harry

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taste&sip OUR FOOD AND DRINK E X P E RT S T R AV E L T O PA R IS, T H E S S A LON I K I AND ISTANBUL

M ATSUHISA PA R I S

➤ PA R I S , F R A NC E

G E R OVA S S I L IOU WINERY ➤ EPA NOM I , GR EE C E

ISTANBUL Harvesting the grapes at Gerovassiliou vineyard

➤ TURKEY

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taste &sip

CROW NING THE LEGEN DA RY ROYA L MONCEAU’S FOOD AND BEVERAGE OFFERINGS, M ATSUHISA PA R I S S E R V E S JOE MORTIMER A CELEBR ATORY DINING EX PERIENCE TH AT TA NTALISES ALL OF HIS SENSES

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Right: Chef Nobu Matsuhisa

M AT S U H I S A PA R I S ➤ PA R I S , F R A N C E FOOD

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ATMOSPHERE

VIEW

IT WAS MORE THAN 30 YEARS AGO that Nobuyuki Matsuhisa opened his first restaurant in Beverly Hills, featuring a menu inspired by his experiences of working in kitchens across Japan and South America. Classical Japanese cuisine was embellished with the addition of Peruvian flavours and ingredients: spicy peppers, punchy sauces and unique dishes like ceviche and tiraditos. Below the equator, they called this genre of Japanese-Peruvian cuisine nikkei, but Matsuhisa had another term for it: Nobu-style. The restaurant quickly attracted a cult following in LA and regular diner Robert de Niro invited the chef to team up and open a restaurant in New York. The rest, as they say, is history. Today, the Nobu name is burnished on more than forty restaurants across the globe: an empire stretching from Honolulu to Tokyo. The first ever Nobu hotel was an instant classic when it opened in 2012 at Caesar’s Palace in Vegas, with the promise of the restaurant’s food available via room service. Numerous hotels have opened ➤

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since and the brand’s growth doesn’t look likely to slacken any time soon. While the expansion of Nobu-branded restaurants has been well publicised, the chef has also quietly grown his original Matsuhisa concept, with a small collection of independent restaurants that blend the chef’s signature style with more destination specific dishes that evoke a sense of place in each location. MATSUHISA PARIS OPENED in Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris in 2016, where the restaurant takes pride of place among the culinary offerings at the Parisian hospitality landmark, just a few hundred metres from the Arc de Triomphe. As I arrive, the hum of conversation floats above the music, which is provided by a DJ stood somewhere out of sight. Great domed lights float above the restaurant, which is essentially an openplan space with intimate alcoves along both sides, broken up by wood-panelled columns and translucent drapes that hang from the high ceiling. Glitzy, mirrored waiters’ stations lend a splash of Art Deco style, a nod perhaps to the roaring 1920s and that great French institution: the cabaret. At the back of the room, in front of a backlit wall of lime green bamboo,

This image and above right: Chefs Nobu Matsuhisa and Hideki Endo

Spicy tuna maki

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The food is celebratory, designed to elicit sensory pleasure, conversation, surprise and delight

TA S T E & S I P REVIEW

the Omakase Bar and sushi kitchen take centre stage. Here, in front of a live audience, a brigade of sushi chefs prepares elaborate raw dishes akin to works of art. I pull up a pew and wait for the performance to begin. ANYONE FAMILIAR WITH JAPANESE chef’s cuisine will be instantly at home in Matsuhisa Paris. The menu is full of familiar Nobu dishes, as well as a sprinkling of plates clearly inspired by the Parisian location: wagyu beef with foie gras ravioli grabs my attention, as do the crispy oysters with caviar. But, since most of the dishes on the à la carte menu are designed for sharing, I opt for the Omakase menu: an eight-course degustation that promises to showcase the best of Matsuhisa’s cuisine, executed here under the leadership of executive chef Hideki Endo, who cut his teeth in Nobu kitchens in Japan and Hong Kong before landing in Paris. From the privileged position at the Omakase Bar, diners can observe Endo’s handiwork as he carefully slices through gorgeous fillets of fresh tuna and salmon, selects edible flowers and the best-looking slivers of vegetables, and transforms them into fantastical ensembles. He flashes a grin when I suggest that it looks easy, but his concentration is steadfast as he simultaneously prepares two exquisite

looking dishes. A junior chef approaches with two plates of a house special, red mullet sashimi, for approval. Both are spectacular, delicate and whimsical, almost too good-looking to eat. Endo nods his satisfaction. Whilst the restaurant has a weighty wine list and a handsome selection of Japanese sakes, I start with a cocktail: a harmonious blend of aged tequila, ginger infusion, fresh lime and agave syrup, collectively called Gold Rush. A medley of flavours perfectly balanced to complement the style of cuisine, it’s a triumph and a wonderful start to what promises to be a fantastic gastronomic experience. The culinary journey begins with Scottish salmon tartar, topped with French Imperial caviar and wasabi flowers, surrounded by a wasabi

and soy sauce with a glossy sheen. It’s a tantalising introduction to the playfulness of ‘Nobu-style’: silky salmon and salty caviar that contrasts beautifully with the wasabi soy, setting the tone for the menu. To finish, a delicious little Japanese peach is popped in whole and whoosh: palate cleansed. Another elegant plate follows: yellowtail sashimi on cucumber slices and thin slivers of spicy jalapeño, basking in a yuzu soy, flaunting Matsuhisa’s passion for incorporating South American ingredients in classical Japanese cuisine. An assortment of nigiri comes next – tuna, sea bass and Saint-Jacques scallops – accompanied by a California roll and a delicate Japanese omelette, embossed with the Matsuhisa logo, all served directly onto a banana leaf on the bar top. The wasabi is grated fresh, the ginger is chunky and moreish and the soy sauce is wonderfully tangy. But it’s the live preparation that really make this course stand out, turning a simple dish into an exclusive experience. While I savour the sushi, one of the chefs prepares a spectacular platter of king crab with burrata and pepper sauce, a beautiful dish that takes a full 10 minutes to assemble. Like many on the à la carte menu, the plate is meant for sharing and creates an instant wow-factor at the table. That, I believe, is the spirit of this restaurant: the food is celebratory, designed to elicit not only sensory pleasure, but conversation, surprise and delight. It’s an exploration in gastronomy: a journey down the rabbit hole of Nobuyuki Matsuhisa’s creative mind. ➤

Red mullet sashimi

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Miso black cod

It’s an exploration in gastronomy: a journey down the rabbit hole of Nobuyuki Matsuhisa’s creative mind The Omakase menu is more of an introduction to the oeuvre: an overview of the chef’s vision that focuses on flavours and textures, rather than aesthetics. A case in point: the seared tuna tataki salad and addictive Matsuhisa dressing is delicious, and the sauce is extraordinary, but the presentation lacks the flair that’s evident on many of the beautiful plates emerging from the sushi bar. SIGNATURE BLACK COD is an essential part of any Nobu or Matsuhisa dining experience and this one doesn’t fail to impress. Presented simply on a banana leaf with a thin shoot of pickled ginger, the diner is forced to devote their attention to the piece of fish and savour every bite. And it’s every bit as good as it should be. Chunks of voluptuous, silky cod flake at the lightest touch of the chopstick and melt in the mouth. The fish is cooked to perfection and, after 24 hours marinating in yuzu miso, it’s infused with a deep, rich flavour that verges on buttery. This is Nobu-style at its best: taking a simple ingredient and

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Chef Nobu Matsuhisa

TA S T E & S I P REVIEW

MATSUHISA PARIS

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FOOD ATMOSPHERE

EXECUTIVE CHEF: Hideki Endo ADDRESS: 37 Avenue Hoche, 75008 Paris, France TELEPHONE: +33 (0)1 42 99 88 00 EMAIL: bookus.paris@raffles.com WEBSITE: The dining room at Matsuhisa Paris

finding the best possible expression of it to delight diners. I’m still lost in a pleasant post-cod reverie when the next dish arrives: two mini-fillets of beautifully cooked wagyu beef with shitake mushroom, asparagus and crispy broccoli, and a smear of Peruvian anticucho sauce. Like the cod, it’s simple but perfectly executed, as is the next course: a punchy miso soup with pieces of silky tofu and several cockles. Unfortunately, the magical mystery of my debut cocktail cannot be repeated. The second one (which takes more than half an hour to arrive) turns up during the miso course. But the aged tequila has, bafflingly, been replaced with cachaça, which is much too overpowering to be paired with such delicate cuisine. An apologetic server acknowledges the mistake and that’s that. The culinary performance concludes with a whisky iced cappuccino, a Matsuhisa Paris signature, which looks like a regular mug of Cappuccino but contains a chocolate crumble and whisky mousse within.

The Omakase menu contains a selection of dishes from the Nobu repertoire that have been delighting diners for years: perfectly executed concepts that demonstrate an incredible ability to balance flavours and bring out the best of an ingredient. It is a retrospective rather than an exhibition: a celebrationW of time-proven dishes, rather than a showcase of new creations that are unique to this particular restaurant and locale. If you have never dined at a Nobu or Matsuhisa restaurant before, it offers a journey into the heart of the chef’s cuisine, and the EUR 130 price tag is quite reasonable for an eightcourse gourmet experience in Paris. Although it’s the sharing plates from the à la carte menu that are the most visually impressive – showing off the artistic and whimsical presentation that make Nobu’s cuisine unique – it’s the simple things that resonate and remain with a discerning diner. After all, it’s hard to find fault in any chef who can turn a simple piece of cod into a culinary symphony.

➤ www.leroyalmonceau.com CUISINE: Peruvo-Japanese LUNCH: Daily 12:00–14:30 DINNER: Monday–Wednesday 19:00–22:30, Thursday–Saturday 19:00–23:30, Sunday 19:00–22:30 LUNCH PRICE: Signature bento box EUR 65 containing rock shrimp tempura, tuna sashimi salad, Matsuhisa dressing, black cod saikyo yaki, sushi selection, spicy sautéed vegetables, whisky iced cappuccino DINNER PRICE: Yellowtail sashimi EUR 8; salmon tataki EUR 22; baby spinach salad EUR 26; rock shrimp tempura EUR 29; black cod saikyo yaki EUR 54; sushi selection, mochi EUR 15 IDEAL MEAL: Eight-course Omakase menu EUR 130 per person RESERVATIONS: Essential WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes CHILDREN: Highchairs available. No kids’ menu CREDIT CARDS: All major PARKING: Free valet parking TCT REVIEWER: Joe Mortimer for dinner Star ratings out of five reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service and, separately, the atmosphere in the dining room

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EXPERIE

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G E R O VA S S I L I O U W I N E R Y ➤ E PA N O M I , G R E E C E

NESTLED AMONGST THE SLOPES OF E PA N O M I , J U S T O U T S I D E T H E S S A L O N I K I , NICHOL AS CHRISOSTOMOU ENJOYS A SOPHISTICATED GREEK W INE EX PERIENCE AT ON E OF T H E COU N T RY ’S TOP V I N EYA RDS

ENCE

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ALTHOUGH GREECE MAY STILL HAVE some work to do before it can completely shake off its reputation for retsina, it’s safe to say that Greek wine has officially been ‘having a moment’ for a few years now. And quite rightly so. Not least because Greece has (of course) a rich and celebrated history of winemaking, which is as ancient as the marble columns that line the Parthenon. Greek archaeologists have uncovered winemaking artefacts that date as far back as 1600 BC, confirming that the country played a significant role in the early wine trade. The Greeks can even be credited with establishing an appellation system to ensure quality and place of origin! Yet, whilst winemaking is an ancient art form that has been around for centuries in Greece, due to technological advances, it has only recently begun moving forward at pace, whilst retaining longstanding traditions. Greece’s rugged landscape provides the perfect terroir for red, white, rosé and even sparkling wines and, in its modern incarnation, the Greek winemaking industry thankfully seems determined to avoid the Chardonnay and Cabernet-only trap. Moreover, updated winemaking technology, coupled with the nation’s 300 indigenous grape varieties, have done much to elevate the modern-day perception of Greek viticulture. ➤

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The Gerovassiliou family

Ample sun, minimal rainfall and an abundance of rough soil set the stage for some serious grape growing and collectively make for a winning combination and Greece’s winemakers of today – with a respectable nod to antiquity – are working tirelessly to bring Greek wine back into vogue. Few people have championed and progressed Greek wine more than Vangelis Gerovassiliou and his family, who have been involved in vine cultivation and winemaking for almost four decades and today produce a variety of internationally renowned and awardwinning wines. APPROXIMATELY 25 KILOMETRES southwest of Thessaloniki on the Greek mainland – in a verdant area characterised as Mediterranean by mild winters and warm summers that are gently tempered by sea breezes – lies idyllic Ktima Gerovassiliou winery, nestled amongst the slopes of Epanomi. Surrounded by sea on three sides, with views of mythological Mount Olympus in the distance, renders this relatively small but perfectly formed 63-hectare vineyard utterly peaceful and verging on magical. The grounds are festooned with lush foliage and fragrant herbs as well as an array of eye-catching modern sculptures, including a few by famed Greek artist Kostas Varotsos, who designed the 30-foot-tall glass sculpture of running man Dromeas which can be seen in front of the Athens Hilton in the capital. Hailing from a local agricultural

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family based in Epanomi, after finishing his studies at the School of Agronomy at Thessaloniki’s Aristotle University, Gerovassiliou furthered his education by specialising in oenology and viticulture at the University of Bordeaux in South-West France. Here Gerovassiliou developed such an intense passion for winemaking that, in 1981, he revived the family vineyard by planting the almost extinct Greek grape variety, Malagousia. With the help of Aristotle University Professor of Viticulture, Vassilis Logothetis, Gerovassiliou effectively saved this old and forgotten variety from extinction and became the first to produce wine from this native grape. To this day, Gerovassiliou vineyard continues to research and experiment with Greek and foreign grape varieties and strives to produce exclusive and high-quality wines from grapes cultivated in privately owned vineyards. This is part of the charm and beauty of the estate, where the passion for Greek grapes and wines is palpable amongst the family and team. All of Gerovassiliou’s three children are involved in different aspects of the family business – their collective enthusiasm very much evident in the taste of the domaine’s wines. And Epanomi’s unique microclimate means that the wines also embody distinct characteristics from the region that cannot be found anywhere else in Greece. Gerovassiliou now grows a large number of grape varieties – both Greek and international – and there are few

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Above: Horizon by Kostas Varotsos; Right: The Tasting Room

TA S T E & S I P

Left: The Balancer by George Lapas

better ways to enjoy some quality down time than relaxing on the veranda of the vineyard’s modern and smart yet informal visitor centre, completed five years ago. AT GEROVASSILIOU VINEYARD, a short visit can easily turn into a delightfully long and lazy afternoon, taking in the gorgeous setting and looking out across the vines while dining al fresco on freshly prepared and intensely appetising Greek dishes, all reasonably priced, served informally and accompanied by the estate’s superb wines. Of the whites, Gerovassiliou’s Malagousia is most popular. A floral and peachy wine, with bright acid and a whiff of honey, sipping it is a little like walking in a rose garden. The grape that Gerovassiliou revived from near extinction, Malagousia delivers a luscious range of citrus and tropical notes.

Now a perennial favourite of mine is Gerovassiliou’s Sauvignon BlancFumé. Cultivated in several blocks of the estate’s vineyards, after skin contact, this wine is fermented in French oak barrels and then aged on lees for a few months resulting in a bouquet of tropical notes, a rich yellow-gold colour and a toasty vanilla taste on the palate. Of the estate’s reds, Gerovassiliou’s Avaton – made up of three different Greek grapes: 40 per cent Limnio, 40 per cent Mavrotragano and 20 per cent Mavroudi – is a divine blend. Limnio was first mentioned in the writings of ancient Greek writers, including Homer, Hesiod and Polydefkis, thus making it an artefact of ancient viticulture. Avaton is a plush and elegant wine that drinks like an expensive sports car: racy but refined, with a dark berry fruitiness and vanilla undertones. The beauty of visiting Gerovassiliou vineyard is in the marriage of the informal and the sophisticated in one breathtaking location. Gerovassiliou’s wines and fare are accomplished and sophisticated whilst the environment in which they are served is welcoming and relaxed. This makes any visit an opportunity never to be missed, even if only to pick up a bottle or two, although it would be a shame not to stop, relax and enjoy the wonderful setting. ➤ www.gerovassiliou.gr

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I T WOU L D TA K E A L I F ET I M E T O F U L LY A PPRECI ATE THE NUA NCES OF TURK ISH CUISINE, SO JOE MORTIMER SUGGESTS WA L K I N G T H E S T R E E T S O F I S T A N B U L A ND FOLLOW ING YOUR NOSE

I S TA N B FOOD

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UL SCENE

FOOD CULTURE DOESN’T happen overnight. Rather, it is born from necessity and availability, shaped by tastes and fashions, influenced by a nation’s prosperity and adapted according to the lifestyle of its population. In the case of Istanbul, it was forged during centuries of trade and conquest. While empires rose and fell around it, Istanbul’s gastronomic repertoire grew increasingly sophisticated. Spices arrived from the Far East and India, grilled meats and sticky sweets from Mesopotamia and the Levant, fish from the Black Sea, vegetables, olives and wine from the Balkans and Mediterranean, hearty stews from the Caucasus, and eventually, potatoes and tomatoes from the Americas. All made their mark on the Turkish kitchen. In modern-day Istanbul, the bustling streets are a theatre of culinary creativity and dining out is a fundamental part of the national identity. From Ortaköy to Sultanahmet, the city is packed with restaurants, cafes and food stalls that feed the 14 million inhabitants of this insatiable city, who consider eating out not just as necessity, but a part of the social landscape. Wherever you are in Istanbul there’s always something good to eat. And where there’s good food there’s usually some sort of performance, whether it’s the calls of the roasted chestnut and grilled corn sellers of İstiklal Avenue, the stuffed mussel vendors of Beşiktaş, or the Maraş dondura ice-cream parlours, where customers must snatch their cone from a long scoop, skilfully operated by deadpan vendors. ➤

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Simit

BREAD BASKET Walking through the winding lanes of Karaköy, the heady aroma of baked goods fills the air. Few have time to enjoy a full formal Turkish breakfast before work, so on the morning commute, workers grab freshly baked simit – a sesame-covered pretzel – from little carts found throughout the city, usually accompanied with a steaming glass of sugary Turkish tea (or chai). As the morning turns into lunchtime, other bread-based snacks take centre stage. Lahmacun is a thin flatbread topped with finely chopped parsley, onion and tomato mixed in with minced beef or lamb, liberally coated in paprika and cumin. This delicious snack is usually rolled up with a handful of fresh parsley, raw onion, tomato and a squeeze of fresh lemon, and eaten like a wrap. Lahmacun’s close relative pide is more

like a Turkish-style pizza. Pide has a slightly thicker base and its edges are rolled-up to keep the topping inside (often melted cheese, peppers, ground meat or spinach), forming a boat-shaped snack that’s enjoyed throughout the day and can be comfortably eaten on the move, as so many of Istanbul’s residents always seem to be. Stroll from Karaköy to Eminönü, past the fishermen who line the railings of Galata Bridge, and you’ll find it hard to resist the temptation of balık ekmek, a simple but delicious sandwich of grilled fish with onion and lettuce, that’s sold on both sides of the Bosphorus. Elsewhere in the city, you might find the same hunk of bread filled with grilled meat or chicken, the street food equivalent of Turkey’s other famous mainstay: the kebab.

Karaköy’s streets

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Lahmacun

UP IN SMOKE Men have grilled meat on open fires since time immemorial, but in Turkey, they have refined it to an art form. Homer mentioned kebabs in his epic poem The Odyssey, which was written almost 3,000 years ago, but it’s impossible to say exactly when or where the kebab as we know it originated. Traditionally, kebab meat is marinated for hours in various herbs and spices, giving a deep, rich flavour and a smoky finish from the coals of the Turkish ocakbaşi grill. Different regions claim ownership to certain varieties, but all can be found in Istanbul, where the kebab is a diet staple. Succulent chunks of marinated chicken, beef or lamb are grilled on skewers over open flame to make şiş kebap (or shish kebab), which is usually served with rice and a simple salad. Legend has it that this ubiquitous dish was created by Turkish soldiers, who skewered meat on their swords and

grilled it in campfires. Today you’ll find it everywhere from fine dining restaurants to back-alley diners. Minced beef and lamb are mixed with onion, garlic and spices and grilled on sticks to create adana kebap, similar to the Middle Eastern kofte, and kebab connoisseurs might want to look out for çöp şiş, a smaller kebab made from lamb offcuts marinated in garlic, pepper and oregano that turns crisp and delicious in the flames. Great towers of lamb and chicken are cooked for hours on upright rotisseries, then carved into pita wraps to make döner kebap, arguably one of Turkey’s most famous exports. There are dozens of varieties, with small differences in marinade, spices or serving style, but the best way to discover them all is to visit Istanbul with an open mind and an empty stomach. It is uncomplicated food, but well-seasoned and made with fresh ingredients, the kebab is the workhorse of a high-protein Turkish diet. ➤

Kepab

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After almost a millennia of creativity, nowhere does it better than Istanbul Baklava

SWEET INSPIR ATION Outside of Paris, the best pâtissiers in the world are found in Istanbul, a quirk often attributed to the fact that European fashions were hugely popular in the Ottoman court. Patisseries that have been open for more than a century can be found among the streets of Beyoğlu, especially on İstiklal Avenue, where shop windows are filed with familiar French creations such as millefeuille and profiteroles. But to attribute this passion for sweet things only to the sultan’s predilection for European finery is to do Istanbul’s chefs a disservice. For centuries, Turkish pâtissiers have made an art form of baklawa, the sweet Middle Eastern filo pastry treats that ooze with golden syrup and ground pistachio. And there are few confections in the world more alluring than lokum, or Turkish Delight, which comes in a kaleidoscope of colours and flavours and is often embellished with rose petals and nuts. Turkey’s foremost pastry-based snack is not sweet at all. Börek, or böreği, is an entire genre of savoury dishes made from delicate filo-pastry, prepared in various ways but usually stuffed with spinach and cheese or minced meat and potato. Kol böreği takes the form of a

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Böreği

Turkish delight

wound spiral of stuffed filo, which is cut into slices like a cake. Su böreği is made using filo that’s boiled before being filled, forming a chaotic jumble of layers, similar to lasagne. Other varieties take the form of samosas of pasties; some are baked, other deep-fried: all are delicious. For a true Istanbul experience, buy a selection of warm bö reği and enjoy with a glass of chai, preferably while soaking in the views of the Bosphorus from a panoramic vantage point. The essence of Turkish flavour can be found at the Spice Bazaar, a labyrinthine

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17th Century complex where dozens of merchants sell mountains of colourful spices, great piles of dried fruits, nuts and seeds, and mounds of delicious Turkish Delight. Visiting is a treat for all the senses and guaranteed to build an appetite, but haggling isn’t for everyone. For a more refined shopping experience, the Spice Bazaar at Aila, the fine dining Turkish restaurant at Fairmont Quasar Istanbul, is a study in traditional Turkish flavours. Here, chef de cuisine Emre Inanir has created a museum of spices displayed in shelves piled high

with mason jars and packed into the drawers of traditional spice cabinets. Alongside familiar cinnamon, turmeric and peppercorns are some of the more exotic spices used in the Turkish kitchen, like sumac, mastic and dusted rose. There are spices for sherbet – a sweet beverage that can be enjoyed hot or cold – like tamarind and star anise, and others that are used in infusions such as marjoram, hibiscus and juniper. The restaurant’s ‘Signature Spices’ range of flavour extracts, rubs and seasoning, can be purchased to take away; an exchange best completed before sitting down to eat. After savouring the colourful feast of beautifully presented mezze at Aila, you won’t feel like shopping. THERE’S NO DOUBT THAT TURKISH FOOD is having a renaissance. All it took was one social media savvy chef to sprinkle some salt on a steak a few years ago and the genre was back in the spotlight! Today, you can find modern Turkish restaurants in cities all over the world. But, after almost a millennia of creativity, nowhere does it better than Istanbul, where the chaotic streets are an openair theatre of culinary performance.

WEB ADDRESSES FOR EVERY PLACE AND PERSONALITY FE AT U RED IN T H IS IS SU E OF T H E CU LT U R ED T R AV ELLER 25HOURS HOTEL TERMINUS NORD

HOTEL FASANO RIO DE JANEIRO ➤ www.fasano.com.br

➤ www.25hours-hotels.com

ADC BEAUTY ➤ www.adcbeauty.com AILA ➤ www.fairmont.com/istanbul ALBA INTERNATIONAL WHITE TRUFFLE FAIR

➤ www.fieradeltartufo.org

RAFFLES ISTANBUL ➤ www.raffles.com/istanbul

KETTNER’S TOWNHOUSE

➤ www.kettnerstownhouse.com KTIMA GEROVASSILIOU ➤ www.gerovassiliou.gr

➤ www.axisartgallery.co.za

➤ www.raffles.com/warsaw RAFFLES BALI ➤ www.raffles.com/bali

ALQUÍMICO, CARTAGENA ➤ www.alquimico.com

AXIS ART GALLERY, CAPE TOWN

RAFFLES EUROPEJSKI WARSAW

JETFUEL ➤ www.jetfuelyou.com

ANDAZ DELHI ➤ www.delhi.andaz.hyatt.com ANIMASYROS 13 ➤ www.animasyros.gr

RAFFLES SHENZHEN ➤ www.raffles.com/shenzhen RANKIN ➤ www.rankin.co.uk

SAN ALBERTO CAFÉ ➤ www.cafesanalberto.com SIR VICTOR ➤ www.sirhotels.com SHANGRI LA HOTEL, COLOMBO

LABOTESSA, CAPE TOWN ➤ www.labotessa.com

➤ www.shangri-la.com/colombo

LE GRAY BEIRUT ➤ www.legray.com

SHANGRI LA’S HAMBANTOTA GOLF RESORT & SPA

LE ROYAL MONCEAU – RAFFLES PARIS

➤ www.shangri-la.com/hambantota

➤ www.raffles.com/paris

SO/ BANGKOK ➤ www.so-bangkok.com

SOFITEL LEGEND THE GRAND AMSTERDAM

MARÍA, CARTAGENA ➤ www.mariacartagena.com

➤ www.sofitel-legend.com

CAFÉ DEL MAR, CARTAGENA

MASSKARA ➤ www.lovepilipinas.com

➤ www.en.cafedelmarcartagena.com.co

MATSUHISA PARIS

CAFÉ HAVANA, CARTAGENA

➤ www.leroyalmonceau.com/restaurants

➤ www.cafehavanacartagena.com

MAURICE DE MAURIAC ➤ www.mauricedemauriac.ch

MINISTRY OF CRAB, COLOMBO

THE BEEKMAN ➤ www.thebeekman.com

➤ www.ministryofcrab.com

THE CHEDI MUSCAT ➤ www.ghmhotels.com

MOVICH HOTEL, CARTAGENA

THE FONTENAY ➤ www.thefontenay.com

➤ www.movichhotelcartagenadeindias.com

THE HENDRICK’S HOTEL

➤ www.thehendrickshotel.com

NEW YORK CITY WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL

➤ www.campbellgrayhotels.com

➤ www.facebook.com/elbolichecebicheria

➤ www.nycwff.org

THE MIDDLE HOUSE

NIKKI BEACH RESORT & SPA ➤ www.nikkibeach.com

➤ www.themiddlehousehotel.com

NOBU HOTEL MIAMI BEACH

THE PUXUAN HOTEL & SPA

➤ www.nobuhotelmiamibeach.com

➤ www.thepuxuan.com

BENSLEY COLLECTION ➤ www.bensleycollection.com BFI LONDON FILM FESTIVAL ➤ www.bfi.org.uk/lff

DEMENTE, CARTAGENA ➤ www.demente.com.co

EL BOLICHE CEBICHERÍA

FAIRMONT QUASAR ISTANBUL

➤ www.fairmont.com/istanbul FERA PALACE HOTEL ➤ www.ferapalacehotel.com.br FRANKFURT BOOK FAIR ➤ www.buchmesse.de

ONAM FESTIVAL ➤ www.onamfestival.org

➤ www.sofitel-legend-thegrand.com SOFITEL LEGEND SANTA CLARA

THAT LUANG FESTIVAL ➤ www.tourismlaos.org

THE LINE DC ➤ www.thelinehotel.com/dc THE MERCHANT HOUSE

THE SIREN HOTEL ➤ www.thesirenhotel.com TRIBAL ➤ www.tribal-hotel.com

PARAMOUNT HOUSE HOTEL

VILLAGE HALLOWEEN

GELATARIA PARADISO, CARTAGENA

➤ www.paramounthousehotel.com

➤ www.parade halloween-nyc.com

➤ www.instagram.com/gelateriaparadiso

PHUKET VEGETARIAN FESTIVAL ➤ www.phuket.com

GAL OYA LODGE ➤ www.galoyalodge.com

HOSHINOYA TOKYO ➤ www.hoshinoyatokyo.com

PIRATES WEEK ➤ piratesweekfestival.com PROPER HOTEL, SAN FRANCISCO

➤ www.properhotel.com PROVOCATEUR ➤ www.provocateur-hotel.com

INDEX

LIT T L E B L AC K B O O K

VERRIDE PALÁCIO SANTA CATARINA

➤ www.verridesc.pt

W DUBAI – THE PALM ➤ www.dubaithepalm.com WIDDER HOTEL ➤ www.widderhotel.com

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adam de cruz

PROFESSIONA L M A K E -UP A RTIST A DA M DE CRUZ TA K ES TIME OUT OF HIS HECTIC SCHEDULE OF ATTENDING T O T H E FA C E S O F S U P E R M O D E L S A N D ACTRESSES ACROSS THE GLOBE, TO GI V E US HIS TIPS TO K EEP YOUR SK I N LOOK I NG I TS BE ST AT 30,0 0 0 FEET

TRAVELLING My work means that I travel quite a bit and, since I’m often only confirmed the day before I need to leave, I have a bag that is always semipacked and ready-to-go. LUGGAGE My trusty, silver Rimowa has been with me for years and contains my full make-up kit which fluctuates between 22-26 kilos depending on the type of shoot. Over the years I’ve decanted a lot of products into smaller glass bottles to make my kit lighter. But now, with all the cleaning solutions and extra protective gear needed on set, the kit is much heavier. I also have a heavyduty nylon Eastpak holdall for my clothes, which sits on the Rimowa so everything is easily wheeled around. CARRY-ON I carry-on another heavy-

duty nylon Eastpak holdall which is essentially ready-to-go in between trips and contains my passport, a black mohair face mask, electric toothbrush, a cotton eye mask (just in case I need a little nap but it’s bright in the cabin), everyday skincare staples and a thin wool beanie because it sometimes gets cold when one has very short hair. My chargers never leave my hand luggage. Also in the bag are Susanne Kaufmann hand sanitiser, Breathe Mist by AMCK FIT and a bottle of my A.D.C. 01 highperformance moisturiser, of course. ➤ www.adcbeauty.com

IN-FLIGHT I love flying and have a bit

of a routine. I don’t like rushing, so usually arrive at the airport in good time, dressed fairly smart. I eat something before getting on the plane. As soon as I’m on board, I spray my seat and hands with the sanitiser and get changed into Sunspel jogging bottoms. I then spray Breathe Mist into my hands and take deep breaths – this really centres me, calms me down and takes me to a very relaxed place fast. I then slap on some moisturiser and will usually sleep for 45 minutes. I don’t know why, but the nap happens without fail! Then I’ll start flicking through the movies. I love long-haul flights because they’re time alone when I can watch what I like without interruption. Sometimes I will do a little bit of work, such as look through researched images. But usually I have a day off before working so the flight is me time. SKINCARE + STAYING HYDRATED

I drink plenty of water – when I’m not passed-out – and my A.D.C. 01 moisturiser keeps my skin hydrated throughout a flight and glowing on arrival. I don’t drink alcohol when I’m on business flights since they’re not like flying to go on holiday. Plus, it’s important for me to be on point when I turn up to work. SCENT I don’t like wearing scents

on flights. The essential oils and

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wonderfully calming and relaxing aromas of Breathe Mist work wonders for me. READING MATTER

A long flight is the perfect place for me to read up on accumulated research about ingredients, products and new ideas, or to focus on the impending work when I arrive at my destination. LOOKING HEALTHY I truly believe you

look how you feel and since I like to look as good as possible for work, I always stick to my routine when flying.