The Cultured Traveller, December 2020-February 2021 Issue 32 by The Cultured Traveller

➤ ISSUE

DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

UK £10

EU €10

Larnaca A CULTURAL GEM IN THE EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN

IDYLLIC ISLAND ESCAPES ➤

DAME SHIRLEY BASSEY

F L O R I D A’ S PA R A D I S E C O A ST ➤ H A R R Y C O N N I C K J R . C H R I ST M A S G I FT G U I D E ➤ N I C H O L A S K I R K W O O D

Photo Credit: Chris Reist

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LARNACA SALT LAKE CYPRUS Thousands of migrating flamingos call Larnacaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s salt lake complex home between November and March annually

I S S U E 3 2 ➤ D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 – F E B R U A RY 2 0 21

highlights

3 8 U N S P O I LT S E Y C H E L L E N SERENITY

DAME SHIRLEY’S F I N A L C U R TA I N C A L L sS I B SS bows out with what’s been described as her final album, aul Burston pays tribute to the girl from ales who became an international superstar, selling million albums during an incredible seven decade career

A C U LT U R A L G E M I N T H E E A ST E R N M E D Scratching beneath the surface of the ypriot port city of , mily illett uncovers a dynamic energy that pulsates through its cobbled streets and sun drenched promenades, transforming this travel hub into a cultural destination with cosmopolitan attitude

erfect for a post pandemic adventure and completely uninhabited with the e ception of a stunning private lodge, IS is a uni ue oasis of indigenous flora and rare endemic wildlife, set amidst tropical forests and pictures ue beaches

1 S W I S S C H O C O L AT E H E AV E N

Inspired by a boy with an additional chromosome, icholas hrisostomou visits small, family run I in ucerne, that lovingly handcrafts utterly delectable, all natural and preservative free chocolates

W I N A S U I T E STAY I N C OV E N T GA R D E N ne of our readers will end 2 2 by winning a four night stay in a lu ury suite at ondon’s newest designer hotel I I , located in the very heart of ovent arden

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

120 150 CONTENTS 10 C O N T R I B U T E R S 12 E D I T O R ’ S L E TT E R 14 N E W S F L A S H

Our fascinating round-up of cultural events happening around the world in the next three months includes urkey’s famous festival of whirling dervishes, one of the oldest surviving street festivals in the aribbean, in the Bahamas the last stop on the annual men’s championship surfing tour, BI B I S S one of the most impressive sights in apan, S I the largest annual ice and snow festival on the planet in BI , and the world’s oldest and grandest carnival of all, I I

o ambi ue IB S S located on Shoal Bay ast, one of nguilla’s best beaches adults only super e clusive oceanfront retreat B , in the northeast corner of ew ealand’s orth Island, and S I, set in a spectacular kaleidoscopic lagoon in the aldives’ oonu toll 66 SUITE ENVY

Designed by celebrated architect an St rmer, crowning amburg’s most stylish contemporary hotel and boasting spectacular, panoramic vistas of ake lster, S I is undoubtedly one of ermany’s most impressive hotel rooms Nicholas Chrisostomou checks in 84 SPOTLIGHT

2 8 R E ST Y O U R H E A D

138

In issue 32, The Cultured Traveller drops anchor in a dozen sublime resorts, any of which would be just perfect for a restorative, post pandemic stay, including breathtaking B B IS off the coast of ilanculos

Famous for its legendary Back Bowls literally on top of the world, offering dramatic views towards some of orth merica’s highest peaks, Alex Benasuli reveals his insider tips to the upscale Colorado winter destination of I , that also positively shines in the summer

30 28

50 84 96 FIVE MINUTES WITH

13 0 TA ST E & S I P :

Celebrated European-based American jazz singer-songwriter MELODY GARDOT tells us about her sultry new album, much of which was recorded whilst she was locked down in France.

SOMMELIER

9 8 T R AV E L L E R L O W D O W N

Straddling everything from upscale shopping and world-class restaurants to wild beauty spots and championship golf courses, cultured travellers want for nothing on I ’S IS COAST. Sophia Amos explores thirty miles of languid beaches and natural wilderness in merica’s sunshine state 10 9 M U S I C & N I G H T L I F E

The Hollywood, Broadway and recording star HARRY CONNICK JR. has been performing since he was five years old. The New Orleans native talks faith, fortune, Mardi Gras and music with Stefan Kyriazis . 12 0 TA ST E & S I P : R E V I E W

Indian food is beloved the world over for its rich sauces, succulent meats and accomplished vegetarian dishes. Since opening in 2009, INDIAN ACCENT in New Delhi has been consistently ranked as the one of the country’s top dining destinations Alex Benasuli checks out its culinary credentials.

Thanks to a warming climate, major investment and increased skill and professionalism, ENGLISH S I I S are doing better than ever, and more people are opting for ngland’s homegrown rather than French champers. The Cultured Traveller looks at some of the country’s finest

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13 8 C H R I ST M A S G I FT G U I D E

From Merino wool socks to a rare 38-year-old single malt, The Cultured Traveller team has taken the hassle out of your Christmas shopping with a handpicked selection of chic gifts, all of which can be ordered online from the comfort of your sofa. 14 9 L I TT L E B L A C K B O O K

eb addresses for everywhere featured in issue 32 of The Cultured Traveller magazine. 15 0 T R AV E L T I P S F R O M T H E TO P

Focusing on high-quality craftsmanship and technical innovation, NICHOLAS I ’s beautiful shoes are modern and irreverent. The celebrated shoe designer tells us how he travels the globe.

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T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

E M I LY M I L L E TT ➤ CITY FOCUS ON LARNACA Born into a family of avid world travellers, Emily has had a nomadic spirit for as long as she can remember Former editor of TTG MENA Luxury and now a travel writer, Emily contributes to a number of in-flight magazines and high-end publications from her bases in ondon and icosia

E D I TO R - I N - C H I E F

N I C H O L AS C H R I S O STO M O U C O C O L AT T É A N N E M E TCA L F E JEMIMA THOMPSON STELL A ALEVIZAKI

PUBLISHER DESIGN E D I TO R I A L P I CT U R E S

T H I S I S S U E ’ S C O N T R I B U TO R S

Paul Burston, Emily Millett, Stefan Kyriazis, Sophia Amos, Alex Benasuli, Dawn Gibson, Ashlee Starratt

CONTRIBUTORS

PA U L B U R ST O N

➤ DAME SHIRLEY BASSEY aul Burston’s books include critically acclaimed psychological thrillers The Black Path and his latest, The Closer I Get is journalism has appeared in he uardian and he Sunday imes, amongst others aul is the host of olari literary salon in ondon’s and is the founder of he olari Book ri e

W I T H T H A N KS TO

Julien Macdonald, Jenny Kern, Jori White, Joe Mortimer, Caitlin Buller The Cultured Traveller magazine is published by Coco Latté Advertising and sponsorship enquiries: ads@theculturedtraveller.com Editorial enquiries words@the culturedtraveller.com Subscription enquiries subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com

SOPHIA AMOS ➤ FLORIDA’S PARADISE COAST assionate about travel, food and film, Sophia has travelled e tensively e ploring urope, sia, frica and ustralia and feels most at home in destinations that offer warmth, nature and culture ith a fondness for the S , to date she has visited seven states with plans hitYallM of them E M to IL I L LbyE2T T

Reproduction in part or in whole of any part of this magazine is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of its respective contributors and writers and are not necessarily shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff. The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles, photographs or other materials submitted.

➤ CITY FOCUS ON LARNACA

Born into a family of avid world travellers, Emily has had a nomadic spirit for as long as she can remember ormer editor of TTG MENA Luxury and now a travel writer, Emily contributes to a number of in-flight magazines and high-end publications from her bases in ondon and icosia

ST E FA N K Y R I A Z I S ➤ HARRY CONNICK JR. Stefan grew up travelling the world with a reek father who worked on passenger liners Based in London, he is the arts editor for a national newspaper, with a particular love for theatre and dance Stefan is equally happy in a bow tie at an opera house or flipflops with a book on the beach

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

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E D I TO R ’ S L E T T E R

From left to right: Fregate Island; Shirley Bassey; Harry Connick Jr.; Max Chocolatier

WITH A VARIETY OF vaccines now on the horizon and an increasing number of airlines offering rapid Covid testing, the aviation industry is a few steps closer to resuming worldwide services. And with that in mind, we can all be more hopeful that 2021 will see a resumption of regular leisure travel, albeit at reduced levels. I have visited a handful of countries during the past few months and found that travelling around the EU by air was far from straightforward and completely devoid of glamour, irrespective of where on the plane you happen to be sitting. I didn’t berate any of my friends who decided not to travel this year, but I do feel that now is the time to begin planning trips again, subject to the appropriate cancellation policies. I hope that The Cultured Traveller provides you with some inspiration. Music has always had the power to heal, lift and transport us to another place. And so, embodying a spirit of optimism, issue 32 has a decidedly musical feel, led by a special feature about the legendary Shirley Bassey, who is celebrating 70 years in the music business. The only performer to have ever had an album in the UK top 40 in seven consecutive decades, Dame Shirley speaks exclusively to The Cultured Traveller (p73). We also sit down with New Orleans-born Harry Connick Jr., who is globally adored for his jazz, swing and

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

big-band numbers (p109). And sultry songstress Melody Gardot tells us about recording her new album during lockdown (p96). Because we will all be in need of a restorative adventure next year, we drop anchor on a dozen idyllic island retreats around the world, any of which would make for the perfect postpandemic getaway. Our foodies check out the finest English sparkling wines (p130) and review a rather special restaurant in New Delhi that has reinvented Indian cuisine (p120). Meanwhile, earlier this year, I was lucky enough to visit a boutique, family-owned chocolate factory in Lucerne that produces some of the best truffles on the planet (p126). Although this festive season will be far from normal, I do believe that Christmas is a time to be optimistic, to look forward and believe that better things await all of us in the New Year. Surely this is a cause for celebration?!

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief

You have to stay here at least once in your lifetime. Situated on a private quay uniquely poised between Cape Townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vibrant V&A Waterfront and the tranquil yacht marina, Cape Grace is the ideal retreat from where to enjoy the splendor of the Mother Cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural and cultural beauty, as well as the warmth of our people. Cape Grace Hotel info@capegrace.com V & A W a t e r f r o n t , C a p e To w n , S o u t h A f r i c a

newsflash

G L O B A L F E ST I VA LS A N D C U LT U R A L EVENTS IN THE COMING MONTHS

I G L O O S AT S O M E R S E T H O U S E THE GLOBAL PANDEMIC has meant that markets, fairs and seasonal celebrations have been cancelled across Europe. It will undoubtedly be a very different Christmas for all of us this year, but we must try to look forward to 2021 with some optimism. In such a period of uncertainty, this has unfortunately meant that London’s Somerset House has had to cancel its festive outdoor ice rink, Skate, which is a much-loved staple of the annual festivities in the British capital. But keen to provide a unique gathering space this Christmas, which, after prolonged

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECE

periods of being apart, feels more important than ever, the Somerset House team has installed a cluster of stunning igloos in the middle one of Europe’s most beautiful courtyards. Decorated with Christmas trees and decorations, each self-contained igloo is available for groups of up to six people to book for lunch, afternoon tea or dinner. With no minimum spend applying to lunch and afternoon tea reservations, the igloos are the perfect place to pause after a day of Christmas shopping, or gather in the evening for an indulgent family gathering surrounded by the spectacular neoclassical facades of Somerset House. Until 1 January 2021 ➤ www. omerset .org.uk

BER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

KRAMPUSNACHT DESCRIBED IN BAVARIAN FOLKLORE as a horned, anthropomorphic halfgoat half-demon which haunts the central European mountainous region that supposedly birthed the creature, and derived from the German word krampen which means “claw”, Austria’s Krampus come alive annually for one night only to spread some not-so-merry pre-Christmas terror! Nowhere does this devil rampage more frighteningly than the town of Klagenfurt – the capital of the southern Austrian province of Carinthia, on the eastern shore of Lake Wörthersee. Here, the biggest and most rowdy Krampusnacht unfolds every year, brimming with ghastly demons quite literally everywhere. The highlight of Krampusnacht is essentially an alcohol fueled Krampuslauf race which winds through the city centre, complete with a multitude of alpine-jogging contestants dressed as scary, child-napping, horned and furry devils. So terrifyingly demonic are some Krampus costumes, that a constant debate rages throughout Austria involving a number of eminent psychologists who want the creature banned because it is so terrifying for children! 5 December 2020 ➤ austria.info/en

BILLABONG P I P E M A ST E R S

MEVLÂNA F E ST I VA L THE STUFF OF LEGENDS and famous the world over, few people haven’t heard of Turkey’s famous whirling dervishes. Commemorating the death of 13th century Sufi poet Mevlâna Celaleddin Rumi, one of the world’s great mystic philosophers, Mevlâna annually attracts visitors from all corners of the world to the Anatolian city of Konya – an hour by plane from Istanbul. Rumi’s work in poetry and religious writings are amongst the most cherished in Islam and beyond. Also known as Mevlâna, he is a best-selling poet in the States with legions of loyal fans. Throughout Mevlâna, the mevlevi, dressed in white robes with voluminous skirts, dance as if they are in a trance, under the observance of their seyh (master). These performances can best be described as both mesmerising and mystifying – the ecstatic spinning accompanied by orchestral music and chanting making for a truly spellbinding spectacle. The festival’s highlight is the last night, when the entranced dervishes spin furiously to commemorate Rumi’s wedding night. 7-17 December 2020 ➤ www.goturkeytourism.com

THE LAST STOP on the annual men’s championship tour, designed to foster world-class surfing around the globe from Europe to the South Pacific, the Billabong Pipe Masters was established in 1970 and attracts only the world’s very best surfers. One of the ten most deadly waves in the world, Hawaii’s Banzai Pipeline is famous for its heavy swells that can reach up to ten metres, breaking over shallow, rocky coral reefs at high speeds to form barrelling curls of water. Not only are these the perfect waves for those willing to charge, but also for onlookers watching the incredible spectacle and often death-defying boarding. Part of the allure of the Pipe Masters is that with surfing perfection occasionally come devastating consequences. The Banzai Pipeline is arguably one of the most dangerous waves on the planet and has claimed more lives than any other wave in the world, on average one fatality a year, not to mention numerous injuries and broken boards. 8-20 December 2020 ➤ www.worldsurfleague.com

HARBIN ICE F E ST I VA L KNOWN AS CHINA’S “ICE CITY” for its huge influx of winter tourists and extensive winter activities, not to mention one of the nation’s most bitterly cold winters, Harbin’s world-famous ice and snow festival is the largest of its kind on the planet. It takes fifteen thousand ice sculptors and artisans – working painstakingly for weeks cutting over one hundred thousand cubic metres of ice blocks from Songhua River’s frozen surface – to create the breathtaking, illuminated ice sculptures and statues, including full-size buildings and figures, dotted around the city. While the sculpture festival doesn’t open until the first week of January, two huge exhibition areas – Sun Island and Ice & Snow World – open just before Christmas, offering eager visitors everything from ice slides and Yabuli alpine skiing to snowmobile driving and winter-swimming in the Songhua River. An abundance of more conservative winter attractions is also found throughout the city, including a delightful ice lantern exhibition in Zhaolin Garden in central Harbin. 24 December 2020 - 25 February 2021 ➤ www.icefestivalharbin.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

R H YT H M & VINES

JUNKANOO WHEN NASSAU’S MAIN ARTERY OF BAY STREET is transformed into a sea of sight and sound, you know that it’s Junkanoo! Delighting and entertaining all who experience this annual happening and the high point of the festive season for all Bahamians, Junkanoo traces its roots back to the late 18th century music and dance spectacles of West Africa and is one of the oldest surviving street festivals in the Caribbean. Legend has it that slaves of old decorated themselves using whatever scrap materials were available, the easiest to lay their hands on being paper and feathers, which were sewn onto their clothes. Meanwhile, flour paste was used to paint their faces. Nowadays, Junkanoo is a wonderful celebration of life and freedom and the major cultural festival of the Bahamas. But you’ll need stamina to be part of Junkanoo, because it is celebrated annually in the early hours of Boxing Day, followed by the main event on New Year’s Day. 26 December 2020 + 1 January 2021 ➤ www.bahamas.com/junkanoo

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

THE FIRST PLACE in the world to enjoy the first sunrise of 2021 will be New Zealand, and what better place to see the back of this dreadful year and welcome the new than Rhythm & Vines, the country’s annual, award-winning music festival. Held at Waiohika Estate family vineyard close to the city of Gisborne (hence “vines” in the name), this year’s lineup is spread across three days and multiple stages. Past headliners have included Calvin Harris and Mark Ronson. On 31st December 2020, Benee (pictured) will close her breakthrough year with a headline New Year’s Eve performance on the Vodafone Vines Stage, performing Supalonely, On An Island and Soaked, plus some of her other hits. Undoubtedly one of New Zealand’s most successful musical exports, having been founded in the Wellington’s club scene two decades ago, Fat Freddy’s Drop will also perform on the Vines main stage on the last day of 2020. 29-31 December 2020 ➤ www.rhythmandvines.co.nz

P ROTOTY P E ACCORDING TO THE NEW YORKER, PROTOTYPE is “essential to the evolution of American Opera” and it took just five years for this premier festival of opera-theatre and music-theatre to achieve this status. Today, PROTOTYPE is almost certainly the most important presenter of innovative new operas, experimental theatre and musical works in New York, mounting both complete performances as well as works-in-progress through partnerships with local performing arts venues. Since launching, PROTOTYPE has produced and presented over a hundred performances, shared the works of countless local, national and international artists, exposed visionary work to thousands of people and filled numerous stages across the multiple boroughs of New York City. The program for the festival’s ninth season includes new digital, auditory and visual journey Modulation – a selfguided exploration of our society and world, as we continue to exist in a form of socially distanced suspended animation. 8-16 January 2021 ➤ www.prototypefestival.org

NEWSFLASH

AT I - AT I H A N ATI-ATIHAN IS THE PHILIPPINES’ MOST SPECTACULAR FESTIVAL and its historical roots can be traced back to early settlers in Borneo. While Filipinos are known worldwide for their gracious hospitality and friendly nature, this particular feast festival – held annually in January in honour of the Santo Niño (the Infant Jesus) – allows visitors a glimpse of their wild, colourful and playful side, a facet of these devout and thoughtful people rarely seen in public. Ati-Atihan is a festival of constant movement, drumming and feasting – essentially a non-stop riot of exhibitionism, costume, music and dance. Soot black-painted faces, feather headdresses and animal bones create a show-stopping visual treat throughout the proceedings. After days of relentless drumming and festivities, it’s nigh on impossible for even the most reluctant and restrained traveller not to get covered in soot and join in the raucous and romping closing, all-night masquerade ball. 10-19 January 2021

T I M K AT TIMKAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT festival for Orthodox Christians in Ethiopia. Celebrating the baptism of Jesus Christ in the River Jordan by John the Baptist, this three-day affair is rich in colour and comprises various ceremonies all conducted with great pomp. On the eve of Timkat, known as Ketera, sacred replicas of the Ark of the Covenant, known as tabots, are wrapped in luxurious cloth and placed on the heads of priests to be

carried out of the church in procession with the clergy. The pilgrimage halts just outside of the city at Fasilides’ Bath, whereupon a divine liturgy is celebrated at 2am, attended by crowds who bring picnics to eat by the light of oil lamps. At dawn, a priest extinguishes a candle burning on a pole set in a nearby river using a ceremonial cross. Many in the congregation then leap into the river. Escorted by horsemen, the tabots are then taken back to the churches while the festivities continue. 19 January 2021

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

MEVLÂNA F E ST I VA L Few people haven’t heard of Turkey’s famous whirling dervishes, whose ecstatic spinning accompanied by orchestral music and chanting make for a truly spellbinding spectacle. ➤ 7-17 December 2020

NEWSFLASH

K E Y W E ST FOOD & WINE F E ST I VA L “FLIP FLOPS REQUIRED” is the motto of this annual Floridian foodie gathering which is widely regarded as one of best food and wine festivals in the States. Over the course of five flavour-filled days, Key West attracts epicureans from across the state who indulge in creative cuisine and a vast range of wines at dozens of unique events including waterfront tastings, winemaker and chef collaborations and funky happenings that present an authentic taste of Key West. The 12th annual incarnation of the festival features “Wine on the Roof Tour & Tasting” on 28th January 2021, kicking-off at 328 Duval Street and taking in Key West from above at a selection of unique open-air locations where culinary delights are paired with delectable wines. Another key event of the festival is its annual “Shrimp Boil”, held at award-winning Matt’s Stock Island Kitchen & Bar on 30th January 2021. 27-31 January 2021 ➤ www.keywestfoodandwinefestival.com

WA K A K U S A YA M AYA K I ONE OF THE MOST IMPRESSIVE SIGHTS in Japan effectively sees an entire mountainside go up in flames in a controlled burn. A former volcano rising almost three hundred and fifty metres above sea level, Mount Wakakusayama, in the Japanese city of Nara, is the location for this annual event held on the fourth Saturday of January. Following a parade that includes a giant rice cracker tossing competition, a torch is lit with sacred fire at Shinto shrine Kasuga Taisha. Buddhist

monks then carry the sacred fire down to a small shrine at the foot of the mount. First, members of Kasuga Taisha and Buddhist temples Kōfuku-ji and Tōdai-ji ignite it. Then hundreds of fireworks are launched, followed by the ritual burning. For roughly an hour, the grasses covering the slopes of Mount Wakakusayama blaze as if a red hell is draped over the mountainside. When all of it is eventually alight, like a gigantic torch, unsurprisingly the fire can be seen for miles around. 23 January 2021 ➤ jnto.go.jp

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

NEWSFLASH

VENICE C A R N I VA L FOR GENERATIONS, the world’s oldest and grandest carnival of all, Carnevale di Venezia, has led revellers through the ancient backstreets and canals of this wonderfully beautiful and vibrant Italian city, revealing hidden parties, exclusive costume balls and secret rendezvous. At its centre, in the city’s beating heart of Piazza San Marco, people dressed in magnificent 18th century costumes and beautifully ornate masks parade around the square, stopping in front of the colonnaded porticos and the domed basilica to be photographed. By day it’s fun just to wander the streets and take in the sheer glamorous and decadent atmosphere of it all. By night, keep away from San Marco’s busy streets and head to the areas of Cannaregio and Dorsoduro. Not to be missed is the carnival’s spectacular official ball, held in the splendid Renaissance rooms of the majestic Ca’ Vendramin Calergi Palace overlooking Venice’s Grand Canal. 30 January - 16 February 2021 ➤ www.carnevale.venezia.it/en

S A P P O R O S N O W F E ST I VA L THE FIRST SAPPORO SNOW FESTIVAL was held in 1950 and consisted of just six snow statues built in Odori Park by local high school students. Today the festival is one of Japan’s most popular winter events and has snowballed into a sprawling white wonderland, attracting people from around the world to the capital of the mountainous northern Japanese island of Hokkaido, a popular ski spot also known for its beer. Known

as Yuki Matsuri locally, the snow festival centers on Odori Park in downtown Sapporo, where giant sculptures of snow and ice stand along a trail of more than a kilometre which is illuminated at night. There are two other sites: Tsudome, a community dome with large snow slides and a tobogganing zone, where the festival starts a few days earlier on 31st January; and Susukino Ice World, where visitors can touch and ride some of the sculptures. 4 - 11 February 2021 ➤ www. nowfes.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

D I N A GYA N G Marked with flamboyant costumes and traditional dances, and one of the Philippines’ largest annual cultural and religious festivals, Dinagyang celebrates the rich heritage, colourful history and passionate devotion of the Ilonggo people. ➤ 22-24 January 2021

NEWSFLASH

QUÉBEC WINTER C A R N I VA L WHILE MOST PEOPLE spend the winter months doing their best to avoid ice and snow, the inhabitants of the picturesque French-speaking province of Québec City do the very opposite and positively revel in the frigid surroundings, celebrating the joie de vivre of carnival season in freezing, subzero fashion. Québec City held its first large carnival in 1894, but the annual event was interrupted by two wars and an economic crisis before the first official edition of the Québec Winter Carnival took place in 1955. The largest winter shindig in the world has been an annual event ever since and comprises parades, an outdoor amusement park, giant ice slides and snow sculpture competitions. Not to mention a fair amount of eating, drinking and general merry making, plus traditional dogsled and canoe races. Not to be missed is the Ice Palace, constructed with compacted snow bricks and lit at night with tons of coloured lights. 5-14 February 2021 ➤ arnaval.qc.ca

FIS ALPINE WORLD SKI CHAMPIONSHIPS HELD EVERY TWO YEARS and almost certainly the most important event in alpine ski racing, the last FIS Alpine World Ski Championships were held in the leading Scandinavian ski resort of Åre in Sweden. In 2021, Cortina d’Ampezzo in the Northern Italian province of Belluno in the Veneto region of Italy will be hosting this prestigious winter gathering of more than six hundred athletes from seventy countries, who will compete in a packed two-week

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

schedule of competitions and racing events. Watched by millions of people all over the world, new world champions will be crowned in downhill, super-G, giant slalom, slalom, alpine combined and the alpine team event, amongst others. For an especially warm Dolomite welcome, purchase a VIP ticket to watch the races from a panoramic terrace overlooking the slopes and the Cortina d’Ampezzo valley, while being fed gourmet Italian fare. 7-21 February 2021 ➤ www.cortina2021.com/en

NEWSFLASH

L A N T E R N F E ST I VA L MARKING THE ARRIVAL OF SPRING after new year, held during the “Yuan Xiao” period and dating back decades, the annual lantern festival is one of the most important and romantic dates on the Taiwanese calendar. In 2021 the city of Hsinchu will host the festival and six lantern sites will be connected along the axis of Dongda Road. These will encompass the old city districts of the train station, the city moat, Dongda Road, Hsinchu Park, Long En Canal and the

Cultural Affairs Bureau, and include plans for performances and a parade. An open call for international lantern submissions for the Long En Canal site has provided a platform for international artists and designers to come together, nurture new ideas through their work and spread positive energy during the global virus pandemic. While thousands of lanterns take to the skies, locals traditionally eat rice dumplings with sweet and savoury fillings known as tangyuan. 26 February – 7 March 2021 ➤ hclf2021.hccg.gov.tw

BERLINALE CELEBRATED ANNUALLY since 1978 having been founded in West Berlin in 1951, Europe’s most respected film festival will kick off on 11th February 2021 headlined by a nostalgic presentation of Mae West (pictured), Rosalind Russell and Carole Lombard’s work. Showcasing the comedic oeuvre of these three well-known American actresses in a retrospective, some thirty films will be shown at the Berlinale that bear the unmistakable signature of each actress in a classic Hollywood comedy. All three actresses worked with renowned directors such as Howard Hawks and Alfred Hitchcock, as well as directing greats of the comedy genre including Alexander Hall and Ernst Lubitsch. In addition, hundreds of films of varying genres, lengths and formats will be shown during the festival in a variety of special presentations, including some international or European premieres, plus celluloid offerings from promising new talents of the German film scene. 11-21 February 2021 ➤ www. erlinale.de

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VENICE C A R N I VA L Extravagantly dressed partygoersattired in magnificently detailed 18th century costumes - pose for photos in the beating heart of Venice, Piazza San Marco, en route to the carnival’s official ball held in majestic Ca’ Vendramin Calergi Palace. ➤ 30 January - 16 February 2021

NEWSFLASH

I DY L L I C ISLAND ES CA P ES

rest your T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R D R O P S A N C H O R I N

A DOZEN SUBLIME RESORTS AROUND THE WORLD, ANY OF WHICH WOULD BE WONDERFUL FOR A R E ST O R AT I V E , P O ST PA N D E M I C L U X U R Y STAY

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CAS MB ➤M LOU ANG K AW A L AY I A OD IA EH BAK R I OT

➤ B A Z A R U T O A R C H I P E L A G O ➤ M O N E M VA S I A ➤ ANGUILLA ➤ KOH SAMUI ➤ LANAI ➤ RHODES ➤ F R E G AT E I S L A N D ➤ T O K O R I K I I S L A N D ➤ W H A N G E R E I ➤ N O O N U AT O L L ➤ G R A N D C AY M A N ➤ H O N S H U I S L A N D

head

THE ST. REGIS LANGKAWI THE SERENE 99-ISLAND ARCHIPELAGO of Langkawi has long been the weekend destination for Singaporeans and Kuala Lumpans in need of a quick fix of sea and sand away from metropolitan madness. For the UNESCO World First Geopark, located off the western coast of northern Malaysia, has largely remained everything that Bali has not, i.e. relatively undeveloped, with just a few luxe resorts, discreet nightlife, ancient rainforests and pristine beaches. Unveiled five years ago, The St. Regis Langkawi was the first luxury hotel to open in Langkawi for a decade and was the upscale brand’s Malaysian debut. Tucked away in its own private cove on

Langkawi’s southern-most tip, it was also the first luxury all-suite resort on the islands. The building’s architectural footprint follows that of a vast, private residential palace, nestled within steep rocky hills, forming two small peninsulas along a sandy shore. A six-storey central mansion – with two lagoon suite wings cascading outwards towards the shorelines – is fringed by a private white sand beach overlooking the emerald green waters of a natural swimming lagoon, also private, which merges with the shimmering Andaman Sea. Post pandemic, can you think of anywhere more divine to spread out? ➤ www.stregis.com/langkawi

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BA Z A R U TO A RC H I P E LAG O ➤ MO Z A M B I Q U E 30

ANDBEYOND BENGUERRA ISLAND ANY VISIT TO THE SPECTACULAR BAZARUTO ARCHIPELAGO, off the coast of Vilanculos in Mozambique, makes for the quintessential Indian Ocean vacation. Since much of the archipelago is a protected national park, the turquoise waters surrounding the islands are filled with colourful fish, dolphins, loggerhead, leatherback and green turtles, providing first class opportunities for diving and snorkelling. And are dozens of species for birders to see, including fish eagles and pink flamingos. A vision of pearl and dreamy blues, assuming that the helicopter ride is timed just right, arriving guests enjoy a breathtaking first glimpse of the island’s dazzling natural wonders. Benguerra first opened as a fairly basic fishing lodge more than thirty years ago. Since then, it gently evolved into something nigh on sophisticated, until conservation outfit andBeyond purchased the stunning island five years ago with the aim of transforming it into a multifaceted eco retreat. Today, it is as an upmarket yet unpretentious beachside retreat, minus the gimmicky nonsense of some of the other hotels in the Bazaruto Archipelago. Laid out in a simple safari camp-style configuration, andBeyond Benguerra’s cottages are strung along a splendid crescent of sand looking over the national park. Consisting of ten casinhas, two cabanas and one three-bedroom casa, each is imbued with a decidedly chic yet authentic Afro-Portuguese aesthetic that’s distinct to Mozambique. Hidden behind high walls, the secluded, thatched luxe lodgings boast private plunge pools, outdoor showers, canopied beds,

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welcoming verandas and beachside cabanas. Inside, the rooms are quiet colonial-style sanctuaries of copper and cream, lifted with touches of royal blue that deftly mimic the shades of the waters that lie beyond. Shuttered windows close out the heat of the sun. Creature comforts abound. From horseback riding to big-game fishing and sunset dhow cruising to collecting crabs on the sand, everything and anything is possible at this wondrous resort. ➤ www.andbeyond.com

M O N E M VA S I A ➤ G R E E C E

KINSTERNA HOTEL & SPA MEANING ‘SINGLE ENTRANCE’ IN GREEK, Monemvasia’s only link to the southern Greek mainland is a narrow, 200-metre causeway, so it is almost an island. To reach this Grecian gem, it’s best to travel by road from Athens, which takes about four hours. Famous poet Yiannis Ritsos once called this hidden, Byzantine fortress town “a ship of stone”. Those who have visited rave about Monemvasia’s rugged beauty that provides a complete escape from the real world. If you really need to privately recharge after the effects of the pandemic, you’d be wise to unplug and hide out on Monemvasia. Days can be wiled away looking for traces of Byzantine, Frankish, Venetian and Ottoman influences in the town, which boasts impressive architecture and history at almost every turn. Just a few kilometres out of town is Kinsterna Hotel & Spa, on one of the four fingers of the Peloponnese that make up this gorgeous, less-visited corner of southern Greece. Kinsterna opened in 2010, just before the country’s economic woes reached crisis point. Yet, whilst any other hotel might have suffered, Kinsterna has since thrived, not least thanks to its stunning 13th century manor house. The former estate of an Ottoman judge, it was skillfully renovated to both blend in perfectly with its surroundings and provide an oasis in the Hellenic landscape, winning countless accolades in the process. Kinsterna’s main buildings are a historical hotchpotch of characterful architecture from different periods. Inside the lovingly restored stone walls, interiors are sparsely decorated with a muted palette of earthy colours, punctuated with sparkling crystal chandeliers, ornate mirrors and modern furniture. Many of Kinsterna’s twenty-seven suites have vaulted ceilings and most have original fireplaces. The Kinsterna Suite, whose rooms are the largest, affords its inhabitants spectacular views across the Aegean Sea and surrounding groves and orchards. The hotel’s natural cool spring has been cleverly channeled to create a large, river-like swimming pool that sits at the heart of the property. The water that runs down through the hotel’s walls and into gurgling troughs is one of the most magical things about Kinsterna. In places, floors are cut away and paneled with glass so guests can see the tiny streams that lie beneath. Indeed, the sound of trickling water is so peaceful and relaxing that you may never want to return to the real world. ➤ www.kinsternahotel.gr

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ANGUILLA

ZEMI BEACH HOUSE RESORT & SPA LOCATED ON SHOAL BAY EAST, one of Anguilla’s best beaches, Zemi Beach House was the first resort to open in East End and the first new-build to open on the island in more than half a decade. Developed as a mix of hotel rooms and luxe residences, to meet the demand of celebrities and the global jet-set wishing to hideaway and escape the world in relatively unpretentious Anguilla, Zemi was designed by internationally renowned Caribbean architect Lane Pettigrew, to mirror the transcendent nature of the island and offer guests an opportunity to renew, reflect and evolve through meaningful encounters. The resort›s architecture was inspired by Anguilla’s natural environment, blending modern, clean lines with classic Caribbean detailing. All guest rooms feature private balconies or terraces with views of the surrounding crystalline waters. The interiors of the public spaces were created by Miami-based

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designer Cuba Fernandez and include a dramatic, oceanfront pool, which is glass panelled on the side which faces the beach. At the epicentre of the resort is Zemi Thai House Spa, the property’s serene crown jewel, housed within an authentic 300-yearold Thai house that was transported to Anguilla in the 1980s. Lovingly restored to offer an intense wellness experience, Zemi’s vast spa includes the island’s first co-ed ‘House of Wellbeing’ and Anguilla’s only hammam with a heated göbek taşı at its core, plus a sun deck for mud and salt body treatments, meditation garden, outdoor showers and a vitality pool. Central to the spa is Zemi’s Taíno Bathing Ritual, which offers guests an opportunity to journey through different temperature changes, using ancient plants and herbs used for hundreds of years by Anguilla’s native Taíno Indians. ➤ www.zemibeach.com

SOFITEL LEGEND THE GRAND AMSTERDAM FIVE-STAR LUXURY IN A UNIQUE HISTORICAL AMBIANCE Sotel Legend The Grand Amsterdam offers ve-star luxury in a unique historical ambiance. Furnished with French elegance and grandeur, the hotel welcomes a variety of visitors, from the trendy Amsterdam elite to famous international movie stars. In all of the rooms and suites (including butler service), the restaurants, the halls, and the beautiful inner garden, the heritage and luxury of this opulent landmark will charm all who visit. Over the course of the centuries, this exquisite Amsterdam landmark has been ripened and enriched by countless special events and, during the process, has also acquired tremendous culinary fame.

Chef de Cuisine Raoul Meuwese and his team invite guests to enjoy the varied selection of dishes available in our restaurant Bridges, in Oriole and on our awarded Garden Terrace. Our traditional

Dutch

brown

café,

The

Flying

Dutchman,

serves

a wide assortment of Dutch and local Amsterdam beers and local delicacies, while our Library ‘Or’ is the ideal place to order The Grand Afternoon Tea. The Sotel SPA is the ideal place to unwind; pamper yourself with a beauty treatment or relax in our hammam or steambath after having had a few laps in our pool.

Sofitel Legend The Grand Amsterdam - Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197 - 1012 EX Amsterdam T +31(0)20 555 31 11 - www.sofitel-legend-thegrand.com T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

KO H SA M U I ➤ T H A I L A N D

THE RITZ-CARLTON KOH SAMUI LOCATED OFF THE EAST COAST OF THE KRA ISTHMUS in Thailand, Koh Samui, the country’s third largest island, is a veritable cosmopolitan melting pot, attracting everyone from backpackers and budget travellers to the mega wealthy. Like the island’s food and beverage offerings, which range from cheap beer and beach bars to world-class international fare and designer restaurants, the mood also swings from brash and noisy Chaweng to the soft thud of a coconut falling on a fine stretch of deserted sand. Spread across 58 acres of a former coconut plantation, Koh Samui’s Ritz-Carlton is unabashedly aimed at discerning travellers and has been designed to seamlessly combine the brand’s legendary service standards with the traditional spirit of Thai hospitality and colourful Samui island life. Overlooking the tropical setting’s turquoise waters, the oceanfront resort is home to 175 suites and pool villas, its contemporary architecture paying homage to the heritage of the

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site via the extensive use of local natural materials which help to immerse guests in the destination. Amongst the expansive resort’s facilities is a spa village anchored in the healing culture of the region, complete with eight treatment suites, three massage pavilions, a dedicated yoga pavilion, health bar and a lap pool with private cabanas. Koh Samui’s Ritz-Carlton also offers a one-of-a-kind temperate swim reef teeming with over fifty different species of fish. The largest of its kind in Southeast Asia, it offers unique snorkeling and fish-feeding experiences, plus two white sand beaches, a beachside pool and a water sports centre. A variety of onsite drinking and dining venues includes a funky Thai street food restaurant, a cevicheria and a hip bar and lounge which produces top-end hand-crafted cocktails and Asian-inspired small bites. The resort’s signature restaurant, Pak Thai, offers modern interpretations of traditional southern Thai cuisine in a fine dining environment overlooking the swim reef. ➤ www. itzcarlton.com

JUST NINE MILES OFF OF THE COAST OF MAUI, for the most part Lanai is all rocky coasts and barren scrub and to many, Hawaii’s smallest inhabited island seems otherworldly. A throwback to how the Central Pacific archipelago looked and felt ages ago, and locally known as Pineapple Island because it once was home to a massive plantation, there are only thirty miles of roads on Lanai and not a single traffic light. According to local Hawaiian legend, the island was once ruled by the god of nightmares for thousands of years. This was obviously not a deterrent for Oracle co-founder Larry Ellison, who in 2012 bought a 98% stake in Lanai and took over pretty much everything, including small local businesses, two golf courses, the community swimming pool, the water company and even a cemetery. Ellison previously owned the two five-star Four Seasons resorts on the island. Following USD 75 million of renovations lavished upon it courtesy of Ellison, the former Four Seasons Lanai at Manele Bay was reborn five years ago as Four Seasons Resort Lanai, with more than a quarter of the hotel’s 217 rooms upgraded to suites punctuated by teak and zebra wood walling, hand-woven wool rugs and mahogany floors. The resort has since become a haven for those seeking peace, tranquility and solace in the serenity offered by Lanai. Rich timbers, slate and stone abound throughout the resort and its verdant gardens brim with lush botanicals and tropical Hawaiian plants beside streams and ponds. An 18-hole Jack Nicklaus-designed championship golf course, Peter Burwash international tennis facility, multiple swimming pools and an adults-only retreat cater to discerning guests. By curating every aspect of guests’ stays, instead of relying on third-party operators, Four Seasons has radically transformed the Lanai experience, ensuring that guests enjoy an incredibly high level of service throughout their visit, even when straying into the island’s desert-like interior. ➤ www.fourseasons.com

L A N A I ➤ H AWA I I

FOUR SEASONS RESORT LANAI

RHODES ➤ GREECE

CASA COOK SCATTERED ACROSS THE AEGEAN like a string of broken pearls sprinkled by Aphrodite, of Greece’s 6,000 jewel-like islands only a few hundred or so are inhabited. Many serve as sun-washed playgrounds for those who throng to their shores to bask in the food, history and culture of one of the world’s oldest civilisations. Rhodes holds pride of place as the historic capital of the Dodecanese islands in the southeastern Aegean. Closer to the Anatolian coast of Turkey than to the shores of Greece, Rhodes was once known as ‘The Island of the Knights’ after it was conquered in 1306 by the Knights of Saint John of Jerusalem. Alexander the Great once claimed the island and its walled city as part of his expanding empire. And the Colossus of Rhodes was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Those in search of respite and relaxation in the arms of ancient Greece will find it on Rhodes’ eastern shore at Casa Cook. This adults-only haven, set against the rugged backdrop of Tsambika Mountain, has pegged itself as a ‘bohemian lifestyle hotel’ with traditional Greek architecture, low-lying white buildings, sapphire pools and olive groves accentuating its heavenly location. The interior décor – realised by Berlin-based Lambs and Lions – is a blend of barefoot luxury, Mediterranean frills and earthy, iconoclastic elements. All guest rooms offer pool access, with private verandas offering exceptional seclusion and interiors that feature handpicked accessories and organic amenities by Korres. Some swim-up rooms are also available. Foodies can indulge in the resort’s funky Kitchen Club, which offers bites, beats and breezy beach vibes in a sundowner setting. Think healthy, fresh and nourishing fare. Yogis can get their ohm on at the hotel’s small but well-equipped fitness the ancient monastery that sits atop its peak. If you’re seeking a centred, European, post pandemic retreat, you’ll almost certainly find bliss amidst Casa Cook’s Grecian sanctuary. ➤ www.casacook.com

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Middle E

A L I F E S T Y L E LU X U R Y C O V E N T G A R D E N H OT E L , R E S TA U R A N T A N D B A R

Immerse yourself in the soul of the city

“

In music, a middle eight injects variety into a song; it lifts the composition by changing key or tempo. Our hotel does the same. It adds to the vibrant, bustling nature of Covent Garden and offers something new and exciting whilst still feeling very much part of the neighbourhood. For those who expect luxury and care about how it’s delivered.

MIDDLEEIGHT.COM

66 Great Queen Street, Covent Garden, London WC2B 5BX T: 020 7309 9300 | E: hello@middleeight.com Facebook | Instagram | LinkedIn

Middle Eight Advert - Cultured Traveller 06.11.indd 1

09/11/2020 09:37:49

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

MORE THAN 100 MILLION YEARS AGO, the landmass that is now India broke away from the Gondwanaland supercontinent beginning a long, slow drift across the ocean. In its wake, more than a hundred small granite fragments were left behind, forming a cluster of islands scattered across one of the remotest spots on the planet, a thousand miles from the nearest mainland. Untouched by humans throughout much of their history, the Seychelles, as they’re now known, were once home to some of the world’s most unspoiled environments, since the archipelago was left to evolve in splendid natural isolation until the 18th century. What the first French settlers found was positively primitive, with forests of prehistoric trees inhabited by huge tortoises and exotic birds, and powdery white sands fringed by turquoise waters. Unfortunately, the intensive crop farming of the plantation era left many of the Seychelles’ islands stripped of their native woodland. But just four degrees south of the equator, Fregate Island is a sensitively developed verdant Seychellois paradise which still embodies the spirit of a primordial wildlife heaven. Completely uninhabited with the exception of a stunning private lodge, Fregate’s owners have worked for decades to restore the island’s ecosystems and replant indigenous flora following the country’s destructive plantation era. Thanks to their efforts, unique and endangered wildlife is flourishing again amidst restored forests and picturesque beaches. Several endemic species are also being conserved, including the Seychelles magpie robin and the Seychelles warbler, both of which have been brought back from the brink of extinction. And following the establishment of a nursery for Aldabra giant tortoises, Fregate’s resident conservationists have successfully increased their population from 150 to a few thousand. The stunning lodge comprises sixteen private pool villas plus one grand estate. All beautifully crafted from native mahogany, topped with thatched rooves and seemingly hidden away on the island’s shores, the villas are large, spacious and luxurious, complete with private infinity pools, rainforest showers and every conceivable mod con. Some are nestled in the trees or surrounded by lush tropical gardens, whilst others are perched along the rocky shoreline or tucked in amongst granite cliffs. All guest accommodation provides the perfect base from which to explore the the wild isle, enjoy some of the only beaches on the planet where turtles nest during daylight hours, watch thousands of rare birds flit through the trees or just flop out and be looked after. And on Fregate Island, you’re more likely to run into a giant tortoise than another guest. ➤ www. regate.com

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F R E GAT E I S L A N D ➤ S E Y C H E L L E S

FREGATE ISLAND

TO KO R I K I I S L A N D ➤ F I J I

TOKORIKI ISLAND RESORT WITH ITS PALM-FRINGED BEACHES AND LUSH GREENERY, Fiji is the epitome of what a luxury beach holiday destination should look like. Each of its islands is a sliver of sun-soaked paradise, where days are satisfyingly long and leisurely, punctuated by ocean swims and hammock naps. Amongst more than 300 islands that make up the archipelago is Tokoriki, upon which Tokoriki Island Resort is one of only two properties. Arriving at the resort is an adventure in itself. After landing at Fiji’s Nadi International Airport – a 10-hour flight from the west coast of the States or three and a half hours from Australia’s east coast – travellers must take a 12-minute helicopter ride or a one-hour speedboat journey to reach Tokoriki Island. However, once there, any traces of travel weariness soon dissipate when welcomed by genuinely warm Fijians and the picture-perfect surroundings.

There are just three dozen freestanding ‘bures’ (a luxurious interpretation of a traditional Fijian hut) and villas dotted around tranquil tropical gardens, each fronting the pool or the beach. Opt for a roomy sunset pool villa and the facilities include a separate living area, a private deck and a personal infinity pool – a mini version of the resort’s opulent central infinity pool. Tokoriki boasts a world-class dive centre and access to some of the most pristine waters you will ever explore, home to beautiful coral gardens, turtles, giant clams and more than 1,000 species of fish. Guests can also take a day trip to nearby Monuriki, where the Tom Hanks movie Cast Away was filmed. Despite the effort required to get to Tokoriki, there are simply very few spots left on earth that are quite so pristine. ➤ www.tokoriki.com

NAMED THE WORLD’S BEST NEW LUXURY HOTEL in 2016 yet consisting of just five suites capable of accommodating no more than ten people, every conceivable convenience has been incorporated in Helena Bay to ensure that its guests literally want for nothing. Owned by Russian billionaire Alexander Abramov, this adults-only oceanfront retreat is a three-hour drive north of Auckland, situated on two miles of stunning coastline in the northeast corner of New Zealand’s North Island. While the size and scale of this boutique property is as breathtaking as the detailing and decadence of the place, it’s as much about what you cannot see as what you can. In a modern take on Upstairs Downstairs, a rabbit warren under the main residence comprises rooms within rooms, including services on a par with a vast commercial venture, hidden corridors running the length of the main swimming pool and kilometres of ducting, pipes and underground corridors to ensure that the main residence’s comfort levels are top of the line. Helena Bay is the first hotel to offer accommodation directly on one of New Zealand’s beaches, while being embraced by lush forest and a tranquil cove. Guests are accommodated in two huge, separate beachfront villas along with five massive suites, all boasting sliding doors to the waterfront. Five staff members attend to the whims of each guest, who slumber in rooms kitted-out with the finest European linens and mosaic-lined bathrooms yet are intentionally a little architecturally bland so as not to distract from the beautiful setting. Facilities include a private European-style spa, art gallery and heated outdoor pool. The hotel’s executive chef, Michele Martino, creates traditional Italian cuisine using produce from the property’s own farm, including vegetable and herb gardens, greenhouses, orchards, cattle and sheep. Lamb and Wagyu beef come directly from the on-site farm and are served ‘estate to plate’. There are even beehives on the property producing Helena Bay’s own honey. ➤ www. elenabay.com

WHANGEREI ➤ NEW ZEALAND

HELENA BAY

N O O N U ATT O L ➤ M A L D I V E S

SONEVA JANI FOUNDED BY SONU AND EVA SHIVDASANI – he a British-Indian businessman and she a former Swedish model – their first hotel, Soneva Fushi, opened in 1995 and pioneered around-the-clock butler service, a strong environmental code and a determination to completely disconnect visitors from the stresses of the outside world. For instance, arriving guests are politely asked to remove their shoes which are slipped into linen bags until they leave the island. When Soneva Jani opened in October 2016, it redefined luxury vacationing for a new affluent, seasoned and demanding generation of holidaymakers. Soneva Jani consists of five little sand and palm-fringed islets, set in a spectacular kaleidoscopic lagoon in the Noonu Atoll. Snaking off the biggest island (a former vegetable farm) is a 1.8 kilometre jetty connected to just two dozen palatial overwater villas, each one bigger than some hotels. The largest of Soneva Jani’s villas can comfortably accommodate a family of ten. But whilst the scale of the villas may be extraordinary, everything else about this resort is sophisticatedly understated, thanks in large part to Eva, the interior design guru, who showcases beautiful yet functional Scandinavian restraint in all of Soneva Jani’s individually designed villas Every villa is a lesson in how to execute luxury, functionality and style in absolutely perfect Maldivian unity. Light and bright with vaulted ceilings, bamboo floors, white rattan furniture, oval windows, portholes in the floors revealing the marine life below, push-button retractable ceilings above the beds to unveil the starry night skies above, and round sunken sofas littered with hand-dyed soft furnishings, some even feature water slides. Every detail at Soneva Jani has been carefully considered and lovingly executed. It’s this level of attention and detailing which make Soneva resorts so achingly beautiful and uniquely special. ➤ www.soneva.com

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Around ninety miles south of Cuba, Grand Cayman is by far the largest and most populated of the Cayman Islands in the Caribbean Sea. Though Grand Cayman is most celebrated for its aquatic activities, there’s no shortage of diversions to please landlubbers, history buffs, eco-warriors and families, from turtle sanctuaries and butterfly farms to Michelinstarred cuisine and ruined fortifications. Indeed, if you venture away from the capital’s souvenir shops, you’ll find an island paradise with a rich history and a diverse population that includes well over a hundred different nationalities ranging from Jamaican to Canadian. Understandably, with such cultural diversity comes an incredible variety of food and entertainment. Yet with all that’s happening day-in-day-out on Grand Cayman, it’s hard to believe that when the Kimpton Seafire opened four years ago, it was Grand Cayman’s first new hospitality offering to have been built on the island in more than a decade. Located on Grand Cayman’s Seven Mile Beach, Seafire was Kimpton Hotels’ first property outside the States. Situated where the Courtyard Marriott once stood, the site’s new incumbent consists of Cayman’s first pair of 10-storey buildings, one housing the 266-room hotel and the other just over sixty condos. Three

roomy bungalows are sited adjacent to the beach. The hotel was designed as a highly social, active resort and, with somewhat bohemian-meets-mid-century decor, it wholly embodies the sense of playfulness and irreverent hospitality that characterises the Kimpton brand. Very quickly, Seafire became one of the hippest hotels in the Caymans and ushered in a new era of contemporary luxury to the British territory. The resort is luxurious, funky, tech-savvy and, just like Kimpton’s other properties, dogfriendly. Stay here and you’ll find it hard to escape the hotel’s extensive facilities. Hotel rooms boast balconies with ocean views and deep tubs to soak in. For those with a touch more cash to splash, six separate deluxe suites are contained within three bungalows mere steps from the sand and cloistered between tropical swimming pools. In addition to a very full schedule of wellness programming ranging from yoga to an al fresco boot camp and pilates, a beach kiosk offers unlimited use of snorkeling equipment, paddle boards, kayaks and mini catamarans, the sprawling central pool has its own bar, and the beachfront has plenty of secluded cocoon-like chaises perfect for soaking up the Caribbean sunshine in style. ➤ www.seafireresortandspa.com

G R A N D C AY M A N ➤ C AY M A N I S L A N D S

KIMPTON SEAFIRE RESORT & SPA

AMANEMU LOCATED IN MIE PREFECTURE, within Ise-Shima National Park in the southwest of Honshu Island off Japan’s eastern coastline, the area around Amanemu abounds in outstanding natural beauty and cultural significance. Forested, rolling hills give way to beautiful Ago Bay, known as the Bay of Pearls, and the complex is located close to one of Japan’s holiest Shinto sites, the Ise Grand Shrine, not to mention the UNESCO World Heritage designated Kumano Kudo pilgrimage trails. In Amanemu, the Aman group has created a sublimely chic interpretation of a Japanese onsen. In other words, a minimalist yet luxurious hot spring sanctuary. Hence, Amanemu is a place to truly relax and restore in style. Pagoda-style structures – fashioned out of wood, bamboo and stone – frame garden courtyards, an infinity pool and various sitting areas, all of which look out towards the calm and blue waters of Ago Bay.

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At the heart of the Amanemu experience is the onsen (or hot springs) which have been an intrinsic part of Japanese wellness and bathing culture for more than a millennia. All twenty-four suites and four two-bedroom villas feature a private onsen. The property’s wellness centre is designed around a large onsen and also features two private onsen pavilions, in addition to treatment rooms and a well-equipped fitness centre. Dining options focus primarily on refined and farm-to-table Japanese cuisine with some carefully curated Western inclusions. Fish and shellfish come straight from Ago Bay, fruit and vegetables from local farms and Wagyu beef from locally reared cattle. Between exploring the local sites and surroundings and relaxing in the supreme comfort of its luxe accommodations and wellness facilities, a stay at Amanemu is an utterly unique and restorative experience. ➤ www.aman.com

H O N S H U I S L A N D â&#x17E;¤ J A PA N T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

HAMBURG ➤ GERMANY

FAIRMONT HOTEL VIER JAHRESZEITEN SINCE OPENING IN 1897, Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten has been Hamburg’s most exclusive hospitality address and has consistently been voted one of Germany’s best. Indeed, on 31st July 2020, the hotel was named the best city hotel in Europe by business magazine BILANZ, beating one hundred other fine city hotels to win the much coveted top honour. Conceived as a grand hotel in the classic European tradition, the property exudes elegance, heritage and luxury. Occupying a prime spot right on Hamburg’s inner city Binnenalster Lake, the Vier Jahreszeiten - with its distinctive white façade and oxidized green copper roof - is a city landmark, situated amongst numerous other iconic buildings in the city’s most prestigious district. The views from its front facing rooms and outdoor Jahreszeiten Terrace are amongst the best in the city. Upon entering the hotel, the atmosphere is one of an elegant gentlemen’s club, complete with acres of marble flooring, rich wood paneling, luxe fabrics and beautifully upholstered furniture amply filling the main public spaces. The tone throughout is warm, hushed and calm. This is a place for seasoned globetrotters, entrepreneurs, leisure travellers-in-the-know and the local business community. Under its roof, the Vier Jahreszeiten hosts some of Hamburg’s most well-known restaurants, most notably 100-yeart-old Haerlin, an exquisite two Michelin-starred offering by Christoph Rüffers, who’s Mediterranean and Francophone cuisine is

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

known throughout the country. Jahreszeiten Grill, just off the lobby, sports many of its original Art Déco features and serves excellent Hanseatic cuisine. A restaurant considered by many to be a local treasure, Jahreszeiten Grill’s dining room is a favourite amongst Hamburg’s movers and shakers. Meanwhile, NIKKEI NINE serves superb Japanese and Peruvian fusion cuisine, in a sumptuous gold and bronze setting, with DJs adding a hip edge Thursday through Saturday. For many, NIKKEI NINE is the most fashionable and happening restaurant in Hamburg today. All of the hotel’s 156 guestrooms and suites have recently been renovated to the highest standards and offer lighter tones of white and cream with added gold, green, red and purple accents. No two rooms are identical, adding a personal experience to staying at Vier Jahreszeiten. On the top floor there are separate wings for the spa and fitness areas. The generous use of natural materials and bleached timbers, as well as nods to the romantic side of maritime adventure, combine to create a sense of escape and fantasy. Atop the spa, a roof terrace is open in warmer months, which offers a truly amazing view over the Binnenalster. With so much style, facilities and luxury, it comes as little surprise that Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten has been spoiling locals and guests with the highest levels of service for more than 120 years and will doubtless continue to do so for decades to come. ➤ www. airmont-hvj.de

A DV E R TO R I A L

Clockwise from left to right: Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten, Hamburg; Deluxe lakeview room; Nikkei Nine; Wohnhalle; Haerlin

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WIN a four-night suite stay at new middle eight in london’s covent garden W I N A F O U R - N I G H T STAY F O R T W O I N A S U I T E AT M I D D L E E I G H T , I N C L U D I N G D A I LY B R E A K FA ST S , P L U S O N E D I N N E R F O R T W O AT T H E H O T E L ’ S S I G N AT U R E I TA L I A N A L L - D AY D I N I N G R E STA U R A N T, SYCAMORE VINO CUCINA.

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

P R I Z E D R AW

FOR THOSE WHO APPRECIATE LUXURY and care about how it’s delivered, new lifestyle luxury hotel Middle Eight, located in the heart of London’s Covent Garden, offers an immersive experience in an elegant and relaxing setting. First impressions set a tone that is continued throughout the hotel with a double-height entrance, contemporary design aesthetic and natural hues creating a lively and warm ambiance. This bright and airy feel continues throughout the hotel’s 168 rooms, which combine effortless style with peerless comfort. In addition, 12 individually designed suites set new standards for hotel living, with a number featuring signature indoor gardens and private outside spaces for al fresco dining. Whether it’s bespoke furniture, sumptuous bedding, exquisite Egyptian cotton linen or the use of natural renewable materials, nothing has been overlooked at Middle Eight to create the ultimate deluxe London hotel. ➤ www. iddleeight.com

TO ENTER Email your contact details to ➤ win@theculturedtraveller.com The draw will take place after 1 March 2021 and the winner will be notified via email. This prize can be used any time before 31 December 2021 subject to availability when booking. Blackout dates may apply. This prize is not transferable to another person. The Cultured Traveller will not share your details with third parties. Multiple entries will be disqualified and excluded from the draw. All entrants will be added to The Cultured Traveller’s mailing list.

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S C R AT C H I N G B E N E AT H T H E S U R FA C E O F T H E C Y P R I O T P O R T C I T Y, E M I LY M I L L E TT U N C O V E R S A D Y N A M I C E N E R G Y T H AT P U LS AT E S T H R O U G H I T S C O B B L E D ST R E E T S A N D S U N - D R E N C H E D

PROMENADES,

T R A N S F O R M I N G T H I S T R AV E L H U B I N T O A C U LT U R A L D E ST I N AT I O N W I T H C O S M O P O L I TA N ATT I T U D E

Larnaca street art by Paparazzi

L A R N AC A A

C U LT U R A L THE

GEM

EASTERN MED

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ERCHED ON THE EASTERN EDGE OF EUROPE, in a far-flung corner of the Mediterranean, Cyprus is a nation steeped in a rich and often turbulent history. Consequently, throughout the centuries, the island has been used as a canvas for cultural expression by numerous civilizations that called it home, drawn by its opportune location at a crossroads between Europe and the Middle East. Today, charmingly quaint villages and bustling cities still paint a picture of those who came before. And while yprus’ uni ue culture and history have magnetic appeal, it’s the island’s hundreds of kilometres of golden coastlines, vertiginous mountain ranges and verdant valleys that make up its spectacular natural landscapes which really have the power to inspire awe any of yprus’ most attractive facets come together in arnaca a region presided over by the oldest inhabited city on the island and set against a scenic backdrop of the glistening Mediterranean and surrounding hills. Known in ancient times as Kition and then later, during the Middle Ages and Ottoman Empire as Skala, thanks to its dock which acted as the island’s main port, arnaca’s fascinating history is coloured by the multicultural threads of the many people who helped weave it over time. Roman emperors, rankish crusaders, By antine hristians, Venetian queens and English colonists have all made their mark on arnaca, leaving evidence of their occupation in its architecture, art, culture and cuisine. B I ’S B S , for yprus’ former capital is currently undergoing something of a reinvention. Once characterised as unexciting, today Larnaca is emerging as an edgy, urban hive of creativity and innovation fuelled by the vision of a new generation of artists and entrepreneurs with big ideas. Here, the ancient architecture and nostalgic neighbourhoods of long-gone communities sit side-by-side with happening food, art and nightlife venues that form part of a constantly evolving cultural scene. Already an international hub for air travel, Larnaca welcomes daily flights from many major carriers, including B , mirates and atar, which land from all corners of the globe and fly to urope, the ulf and beyond But where visitors would once disembark and swiftly leave the airport for the island’s more commercial resorts, arnaca is increasingly tempting travellers to stop and explore. Sea views should be a principal prerequisite when deciding where to rest one’s head in arnaca or a room with a breathtaking view of the editerranean, adults only iao Stelio hotel is conveniently located five-minutes by taxi from the airport or arnaca’s old town, and commands a piece of prime coastal real estate between the end of Piale Pasha road and the start of the acken ie Beach strip ➤

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

St. Lazarus Church

Ciao Stelio hotel

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Larnaca Castle

Finikoudes promenade

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

With just fifty-one rooms and suites, this modern boutique hotel has an intimate feel offset by a distinctly design hotel vibe lamorous dark marble walls, large fish tanks and a tastefully eclectic collection of contemporary artwork welcome guests in the lobby But it’s the guest rooms that really set Ciao Stelio apart. A picture of island chic living, minimal décor is complemented by light wood accents and white-washed floors, completed by floor-to-ceiling windows opening onto private balconies offering spectacular, unobstructed views of the Mediterranean. ➤ heciaostelio.com ick off your arnaca stay with a stroll along iale asha towards the city centre his two kilometre coast road recently underwent a major makeover, connecting arnaca astle with acken ie by a dedicated pedestrian walkway on the water’s edge s you walk, with the editerranean expanding all the way to the horizon on your right and the silhouette of the old town up ahead, the salty sea air seems laced with the magic of a city on the cusp of stepping into its true potential.

CITY FOCUS L A R N AC A Loukoumades

STOP OFF FOR SOME SWEET SUSTENANCE in appropriately nicknamed “ice cream alley” a inci serves the best , before soaking in the atmosphere at the old psarolimano fishing harbour where traditional wooden boats, still used by local fishermen today, bob gently up and down in the water patiently waiting to be taken out to sea stone’s throw from the glassy waters you will chance upon a smattering of traditional eateries and fish tavernas, some of which have popped up recently in response to the area’s flourishing popularity rading for forty five years on the edge of the harbour, Zephyros serves the best locally caught fresh fish in Larnaca and its traditional meze is not to @zephyrosbeachtavern be missed. ➤ On your way into the centre, be sure to pit-stop at Alasia for an authentic taste of Cyprus. This cosy, family-run tavern has been passed down through generations of strong women and is now in the capable hands of current owner, manager and chef, Christina. Committed to maintaining the quality that lasia has long been known for, she serves homemade ➤

Fish meze at Zephyros

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Alasia cafe

ypriot fare cooked with love and served with sea views hat makes lasia stand out is its focus on making everything from scratch, including the hand-ground koupes that first made it famous Be sure to leave room for hristina’s famed bourekia an indulgently sweet homemade pastry, filled with delicately fragrant Cypriot @alasia-cafe anari cheese. ➤ ucked away just behind lasia lies the slightly crumbling old urkish uarter nce home to arnaca’s urkish ypriot community before the division of , time seems to have stood still in this atmospheric, higgledy piggledy network of narrow, winding lanes History has been frozen in peeling white-washed houses with traditional bay windows, colourful wooden shutters and red tiled rooves. Here, development and modernisation have been snubbed in favour of preserving the old-world, dilapidated charisma that now characterises the area. S IS S I I B S, artists have now moved in, transforming some of the abandoned stone buildings into artisan studios and infusing the area with a touch

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

of bohemia t mira ottery, visitors can take part in workshops run by owner and skilled artist ichalis ichael nce you’ve tried your hand at the potter’s wheel, browse the showroom where Michalis sells his ceramic creations made according to age-old techniques. ➤ emirapottery.com.cy short walk away and distinguishable by a large poppy streetlamp sculpture outside, visit Christiana haralambous’ studio for a contemporary take on classic pottery hen she is not working on projects to beautify the urban landscape with public art, Christina creates individual, modern ceramics encompassing ancient influences. ➤ @chr.charala Another Larnaca neighbourhood currently being revived by artists in residence is the hip and uirky area around Kalogera Street, in the city centre. Prolific artists, including riana akou and aria ristidou have set up shop here and, as if to claim the zone as their own, street artists have adorned the walls and buildings with colourful murals. enowned reek street artist, muralist and arnaca resident Paparazzi is fascinated by different approaches to art and its relationship with the environment. ➤

Emira Pottery

Street art by Paparazzi

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In his work, he attempts to bridge the gap between street art and fine art via constant experimentation and the synthesis of styles See how many works by apara i you can spot while losing yourself in the edgy yet convivial character of the area apara i’s studio is located at 2 araoli Dimitriou. ➤ aparazziartstudio.com While the centre of Larnaca is small enough to explore on foot, another way to really get under the skin of this captivating destination is on a half-day guided tour. Expert local guides double-up as historians, university lecturers and authors and are palpably passionate about sharing their indepth knowledge of the island ➤ ytouristguides.com In the company of a guide, you’ll learn all about prominent Islamic pilgrimage site ala Sultan ekke the burial place of the rophet ohammed’s aunt, mm aram which sits peacefully on the banks of arnaca Salt ake he lake comple is in fact one of the most important habitats for waterfowl in Europe, including thousands of migrating flamingos that call it home between November and March. I I S that make up the beautiful By antine church of St a arus, which watches over a buzzing little square in the centre of arnaca e t, saunter along palm fringed inikoudes seafront promenade, from the old port all the way to arnaca’s medieval castle, which was built during the Middle Ages.

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

But arnaca is much more than a sum of its historic pasts Food has always been a huge part of Cypriot culture and life, and Larnaca is emerging as a worthy ambassador for the island’s wonderfully rich culinary heritage To treat your taste buds to a tour of Cypriot cuisine, book an epicurean adventure with yprus aste ours n these dedicated walking tours, friendly local food connoisseurs take their guests to five of arnaca’s hidden culinary gems, stopping for a bite to eat at each, while imparting in-depth information about the history and origins yprustastetours.com of each delicacy. ➤ For lunch downtown, head to Alchemies, the brainchild of a pair of entrepreneurial local brothers who saw potential in this once derelict part of the city. A cool cafécum-restaurant by day, Alchemies transitions into a cosy wine bar at night. Contemporary Mediterranean fare is served to the tables which line a buzzing little arcade and sunny square out front. The area surrounding Alchemies is now one of the hippest corners of Larnaca. ➤ @alchemies_larnaca fter lunch, stroll down arnaca’s main shopping street of Ermou towards St. Lazarus for a spot of wine tasting under the romantic, vaulted ceilings of ak ree ine ellar ittle known to many, yprus boasts an impressive, emerging viniculture and ak ree’s owner Sergios atodritis is a font of knowledge on the subject ➤

St. Lazarus church

The Japanese believe that food should be prepared with great care, be beautifully presented and should satisfy all of one's senses. The exquisite Japanese cuisine served at Nippon will satisfy all of your senses, and more. Reservations +357 24 400 330

www.nipponjapanese.com

Garfinkelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

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Nippon

SI S, S S I I S, the island’s winemaking industry has e panded significantly, with the quality of its wines improving in tandem with the increasing number of producers. The reason why yprus’ wines remain something of a secret on the global stage is because the best wines come from the smaller producers, who only make enough to keep the locals uenched! uring Sergios’ intimate wine tastings, guests sample ten Cyprus wines, which are served alongside platters of Cypriot cheeses and bread so crusty it’s moreish mongst others, I sipped a chilled organic vegan ros from siakkas inery a delectably crisp and subtly floral Persefoni white made from high altitude inisteri grapes a rare, full bodied red from olios inery, made from indigenous aratheftiko grapes nd the oldest of all ypriot wines ommandaria ➤ cypruswinesonline.com With an appetite oiled by a newfound appreciation for ypriot wines, it’s time for a dinner date at one of the undisputed champions of yprus’ culinary scene ippon Upwardly mobile and well-turned out Cypriots hailing from all corners of the island, descend upon Nippon every night of the week for its superb apanese cuisine which could give Nobu a run for its money. A visiting epicurean simply cannot leave Larnaca without experiencing the culinary perfection routinely produced by ippon’s skilled chefs Start your dinner in style with indulgent lobster ceviche, before savouring expertly crafted sushi and ending on a high note with melt in the mouth black cod served in a sweet miso glaze. Wash it all down with a fine wine selected from ippon’s e tensive list, but don’t leave without sampling one of the restaurant’s vast collection of gins, so many that they warrant their own menu. ➤ ipponjapanese.com I , I ’S B I I I scene beckons, with its growing selection of eclectic bars, cocktail lounges and Ibi a es ue beach clubs luring out even the most discerning for an evening beverage, or two. In arnaca, a generation of innovators have returned from stints abroad and are now hard at work injecting a fresh dose of creativity and dynamism into the city’s bars and clubs Amongst them is Panayiotis Savva, a veritable wizard behind the bar and owner of Spritzeria Ermou, an all-day café-bar where he masterfully crafts cocktails featuring spirits that he passionately ages in gourds, leather bladder flasks and @spritzeriaermou traditional clay pots. ➤ fter an indulgent night e ploring arnaca’s many nocturnal offerings, refresh your senses with a change of scenery and take a day trip to the pictures ue village of hoirokit a, about twenty five kilometres away ars are easy and ine pensive to hire in yprus, one of the island’s best car rental agencies being AER, close to Larnaca airport ➤ ➤ aercar.com

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

PHOTOGRAPH: RIC STOVALL

Spritzeria Ermou

Ammos

I I I ’S of flowerfilled cobbled lanes, from a beautifully renovated traditional ypriot house, etros ikolaou runs an e clusive little business introducing visitors to the traditional arts of basket weaving and making halloumi the latter being yprus’ national cheese, which has been produced on the island for centuries ou won’t taste better halloumi anywhere in @petros.nikolaou.5439 Cyprus. ➤ n your way back to arnaca, stop at the eolithic S orld eritage archaeological site of hirokitia or hoirokit a , which is one of the most important prehistoric sites in the eastern Mediterranean. Here, stone remains dating from the th to the th millennium B decorate the hillside like ancestral scars, reminding us of ancient civilizations. The findings from this site helped shed light on the evolution of human society in the region.

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

B I , the only way to end a sojourn embracing arnaca’s big town attitude and small town charm is over a long, hedonistically liquid lunch at achingly cool Ammos Beach Bar on the acken ie strip, five minutes by ta i from the centre or a few minutes’ walk from iao Stelio hotel auded as the venue that brought acken ie back to life, Ammos has now become something of an institution in Cyprus, first rising to notoriety for its heady beach parties that ran well into the early hours. Nowadays, Ammos has a reputation for its mouth-watering menu of fusion beachside cuisine, superb cocktails and attentive service Share freshly shucked oysters to start, before diving into a casserole of mussels and tucking into some succulent fresh octopus, washing it all down with a crisp white wine or a mojito or two Incoming planes fly low over mmos as they approach arnaca airport to land and there’s a distinctive lub Tropicana-chic feel to the whole place, as you dine and

drink in the editerranean bree es, so close to the sea that you can feel the sand between your toes. ➤ mmos.eu With the enticing offerings and dynamic edge of a much bigger city conveniently packed into an easily accessible centre, Larnaca is the embodiment of good things coming in small packages But don’t let this city’s cosy feel fool you! or things are constantly happening in Larnaca, as a new wave of artists, forward thinkers and creative types continuously work to elevate its cultural and culinary scenes he city may be easy to cover on foot but there’s still not enough time in a day to visit the plethora of boutique hangouts, stylish hideaways and off-piste secrets. And the best part? ultural preservation remains at the forefront of arnaca’s development aspirations, so one foot firmly rooted in the past is keeping yprus’ rising star grounded amidst a whirlwind of regeneration, revival and innovation. ➤ larnakaregion.com

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C R O W N I N G H A M B U R G ’ S N E W E ST F I V E - STA R H O T E L A N D B O A ST I N G S P E CTA C U L A R , PA N O R A M I C L A K E V I STA S , N I C H O L A S C H R I S O ST O M O U C H E C K S I N T O O N E O F G E R M A N Y ’ S M O ST I M P R E S S I V E H OT E L S U I T E S

suite envy F O N T E N AY ➤ T H E

S U I T E

F O N T E N AY,

H A M B U R G

VER SINCE THE OPENING of the lbphilharmonie three years ago amburg’s truly magnificent er og de euron designed concert hall unprecedented but well deserved international attention has been being lavished on ermany’s handsome and prosperous second city, helping to spawn record visitor numbers to this urban powerhouse of industry, culture and history, pre pandemic, of course he third largest city in the erman speaking world after Berlin and ienna , there are more billionaires and millionaires living in amburg than in any other erman metropolis s the richest metropolitan centre, in one of the world’s wealthiest countries, amburg understandably oo es a sense of confidence and success t the same time, it is down to earth, discreet and practical nd for a city that was nearly destroyed twice, amburg is astonishingly attractive ➤

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

PHOTOGRAPHS: ANN MARIE WILKINS, GAVIN BOND

The Fontenay, Hamburg

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amburg’s charismatic cityscapes seamlessly incorporate period and contemporary buildings and monuments its low rise architecture pierced by soaring church spires the industriousness of its inner city port the ju taposition of colourful gentrified working class neighbourhoods with posh elegant residential districts and the connection to nature from the harbour views to the lakes, canals and parks that crisscross the city hey say that there are more canals and bridges in amburg than in msterdam, Stockholm and enice combined Indeed, it is one of the attributes that make amburg such a visually interesting city and a great pleasure to stroll around pmarket amburg lies to the north of the city, in the areas that surround pper lster ake Bucolic, tree filled, lakefront and canal dissected districts like ppendorf, interhude and otherbaum are traditional villages that were incorporated into the city over a century ago unctuated by a number of beautiful parks inviting you to pause in pristine nature, hip students mingle with ladies who lunch in the elegant neighbourhood of otherbaum, located between amburg niversity and the pper lster n outwardly upscale and well heeled part of the city, yet oo ing charm, civility and calm, it is here that the architecturally flamboyant ontenay hotel is located

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

B I SI I I , he ontenay’s position, on the banks of the pper lster within a beautifully landscaped park, is truly uni ue ising above the surrounding treetops like a massive sculpture, the striking design for the eight storey building originated in an urban planning and architectural design competition, which was won by architects St rmer, urphy and artners in collaboration with interior designer atteo hun In his timelessly modern yet strikingly organic design, renowned amburg based architect an St rmer skillfully paid tribute to both the 2 st century modernity and the long history of the port city of amburg et, despite the building’s powerfully e pressive form, thanks to its ample free flowing contours, it harmoniously blends in with the park like terrain alongside the lake, and sits comfortably within the historical, predominantly white buildings from the post war period and late th century which surround it It was the hotel’s uni ue setting which inspired St rmer to design the building following the principles of eng Shui, with circular shapes being its main architectural feature choing the surface of the adjacent lake, the building is clad in a combination of glass and large white reflective ceramic panels, arranged in hori ontal strips ogether, they lend the building an intensely elegant and serene appearance and

SUITE ENVY From left to right: The Fontenay Bar, Library, Atrium Lounge, Lobby and Reception

cleverly combine urban nature with cosmopolitan amburg, the e tensive use of glass ensuring that every interior is flooded with natural light n the lake side, large treetops nestle gently into the building’s curved fa ades hree fluid circles merge in the middle part of the building where the elevators are located wo courtyards open up to the left and right one a roofed atrium, the other an open courtyard and the spectacular 2 metre atrium is hung with a massive, show stopping illiam Brand chandelier omprising handmade metal branches draped in silvery leaves, the chandelier sparkles in the flickering daylight which beams into the vast, church like space I IS that wherever one ventures through the building, he ontenay is a design led hotel, brimming with architectural detailing and hung with original works by eruvian artist ntonio ro very meal served at he ontenay is a supremely civilised affair hether taking breakfast in ground floor arkview restaurant which boasts a spectacular morning offering , enjoying a celebratory meal in one of he ontenay’s two private dining rooms, or feasting on haute cuisine in seventh floor akeside restaurant overlooking the pper lster, the service throughout is e emplary and the delicious fare matches the super stylish ambiance uests also enjoy

panoramic vistas of amburg from the si th floor ontenay Bar, where e cellent handcrafted cocktails are married with unmissable lake and city views he jewel of the hotel’s hospitality offerings is undoubtedly the sprawling, top floor ontenay Spa, with its indoor outdoor heated infinity pool, sun terrace, innish sauna, several rela ation areas and numerous treatment rooms, in one of which I e perienced the best deep tissue massage in living memory curved wall of floor to ceiling windows lines the hotel’s well e uipped gym, with views towards einrich ert ower amburg’s tallest building making working out a visual pleasure he circular theme continues throughout the hotel’s guest rooms and suites, all of which are characterised by an interesting trape oid shape, with curved walls and floor to ceiling panoramic windows letting in plenty of light ccupying more than two hundred s uare metres on the fifth floor, the curved, two bedroom ontenay Suite is the largest accommodation in the building erfectly positioned directly facing the lster, the suite is fringed by a continuous, wraparound balcony which connects every room with each other, nature and the water of the pictures ue lake beyond he views from each room are nothing short of breathtaking ultiple entrances from the corridor provide direct access into both bedroom suites, and a butler’s entrance enables ➤

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food and drink to be delivered directly into the suite’s kitchen, close to the dining room In terms of access, the design of the suite is spot on he ontenay Suite’s main entrance from the outside world opens into a lobby and huge lounge laden with enough sofas to comfortably seat a do en friends or host an elegant cocktail party nce I put down my bags, it is impossible not to open every curtain in the place s well as electrically opening and closing the curtains, touchpads control the mood lighting and air conditioning rom the suite’s lounge, two “wings” branch off to the left and right o the left, a dining room that comfortably seats ten around a beautiful marble table leads to a huge guest bedroom with a private, spa like en suite bathroom o the right of the lounge, nassis would have been happy to run his shipping empire from the dapper office, dominated by a huge desk, which provides a stylish and spacious place to work, while looking out at the boats bobbing up and down on the lake urther along, the master bedroom suite offers more incredible views from atop its massive bed, plus a rather special bathroom s well as the usual deep soaking tub and twin sinks, a walk in shower room, large enough for a small party, comes complete with two rain showers, multi coloured lighting and music S of soft tur uoise, light blue and shades of beige define the look and feel of the ontenay Suite, accented with royal blue and gold touches cept the bathrooms and guest cloakroom where natural sandstone dominates, the floors throughout are a beautiful oak par uet smart kitchen is e uipped with every appliance needed for a chef to prepare a gourmet meal for the suite’s occupants, although only the fridge is used to chill bottles during my stay!

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

SUITE ENVY

ontemporary furnishings throughout are complemented by leather, fine fabrics and plenty of wood, together with some classic ames armchairs, designer pieces and decorative objets d’art by anish design brand eorg ensen I count seven screens including those inset in the bathroom mirrors but there may well be more Slick, super lu e and impressive, yet comfortable, unpretentious and utterly usable, the ontenay Suite deftly achieves something that many top of the line five star hotel suites do not, namely ju taposing lu ury with usability and still impressing ith its curvy styling, idyllic lakeside setting and contemporary design blurring the boundaries between inside and out, the ontenay Suite is a incredibly special place to rest one’s head in ermany’s most charismatic city A night in the Fontenay Suite at The Fontenay costs EUR 9,000 including breakfast and taxes. ➤ www.thefontenay.com

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DA M E S H I R L EY BA S S EY

I OWE IT ALL TO YOU THE NEW ALBUM A COLLECTION OF SONGS CELEBRATING 70 YEARS OF UNFORGETTABLE MUSIC AND THE GRANDE FINALE

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ISSUE 32

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DECEMBER – JANUARY 2021

living legend

Dame Shirley A S S H I R L E Y B A S S E Y B O W S O U T W I T H W H AT â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S D E S C R I B E D A S H E R F I N A L A L B U M , PA U L B U R ST O N PAY S T R I B U T E T O T H E G I R L F R O M T I G E R B AY, W H O B E C A M E A N I N T E R N AT I O N A L S U P E R STA R

It seems hard to believe now, but she never planned to become a singer

GREW UP WITH SHIRLEY BASSEY. I don’t mean this literally e weren’t raised in the same household, more’s the pity But I can’t remember a time when I wasn’t aware of her rowing up in small town South ales, barely 2 miles from Bassey’s birthplace in iger Bay, she’s been a constant presence all my life a local legend as well as a global superstar y mother saw her perform in ardiff pubs and clubs before I was born er records were often played on the radio and on my parents’ record player I knew all the words to Kiss Me, Honey Honey, Kiss Me from the age of ten, which probably e plains a lot er appearances were a family affair e’d gather around the bo to watch Shirley the showstopper on he oyal ariety erformance, or Shirley sending herself up on the orecambe ise show nd then, of course, there were her theme tunes to the Bond films Diamonds Are Forever, Goldfinger and Moonraker It was these that helped seal her fate as a gay icon But first and foremost she is an entertainer hey don’t make them like Shirley Bassey anymore ➤

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I B I S S B SHIRLEY BASSEY hen he first began touring as iggy Stardust, Bowie was escorted to his dressing room by the manager of some venue or other e wasn’t impressed “But my dear man, there’s no lavatory,” he complained “ here am I supposed to piss ” o which the manager allegedly replied, “ se the sink If it’s good enough for Shirley Bassey, it’s good enough for you ” Bearing in mind Bowie’s lifelong habit of bending the truth for the sake of a good story, it’s hard to know whether this particular tale is true or not But I like to think it is It brings Bassey back down to arth the single mother from iger Bay, who became an international superstar but never forgot her roots She was born Shirley eronica Bassey in , the youngest of si children er father was igerian and her mother came from eesside hey weren’t what you’d call pushy showbi parents “ hen I sang at home, my family did not encourage me,” Bassey recalls “ e were young and my siblings said, ‘ um! Shirley’s singing again!’” espite showing early promise in the school choir, she wasn’t given much encouragement by her teachers She once told an interviewer, “ veryone told me to shut up!” It’s a measure of

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her indomitable spirit that she refused to shut up here’s always been an element of grit beneath the Bassey glamour, a rod of iron behind the se uins and feather boas rowing up mi ed race in South ales in the ’ s and ’ s can’t have been easy She’s a survivor because she’s had to be It’s no coincidence that some of her greatest songs are defiant anthems of self determination I Am What I Am and This Is My Life to name two of her most famous It seems hard to believe now, but she never planned to become a singer Instead, young Bassey harbored ambitions of becoming an air hostess, model or nurse So, what changed her mind “I couldn’t get any of those jobs, so I became a singer ” nd who inspired her musically “ y dear friend udy arland ” ike arland, Bassey has always been a very emotional singer who puts everything into her performances She had no formal training but turned to singing as a way of channeling her feelings “ hen things went wrong, instead of crying, I sang ” Something went wrong on her very first night on stage She had three songs planned “ nd the last one finished with a big ending and my arms in the air he elastic belt broke

on my skirt he skirt started to fall down I grabbed it and ran off the stage e fi ed it and I walked back on he show must go on!” er professional career began in , but it wasn’t until that she had her first hit with The Banana Boat Song, which reached number in the charts She made her merican stage debut that same year and in recorded two songs that would catapult her to superstardom As I Love You was initially released as a B side and didn’t do very well at first But in anuary , it reached the top of the charts and remained there for four weeks It was the first number single by a elsh artist eanwhile, her recording of Kiss Me, Honey Honey, Kiss Me climbed the top ten Soon she had two singles in the top three positions of the charts at the same time he ’ s were Bassey’s boom time er recording of As Long As He Needs Me from ionel Bart’s musical Oliver! reached number 2 and enjoyed a chart run of thirty weeks he same year, she made her merican debut on the d Sullivan Show ore hits followed, including What Now My Love, Reach For The Stars, Climb Ev’ry Mountain and I Who Have Nothing. ➤

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There aren’t many singers who can successfully reinvent themselves 30 years into their career

IN 1965 CAME THE FIRST OF HER BIG BOND THEMES. Goldfinger was a smash hit on both sides of the Atlantic and instantly became a defining song of her career, as strongly associated with her now as it was then. She first heard it when John Barry played her the instrumental track a year earlier, “ ohn Barry presented it to me without words I said, ‘I’m a singer, I need words ’ But he said ‘please, just listen ’ I’m glad I did because the very first verse of Goldfinger gave me goose pimples I said, ‘I don’t care what the words are like, I will sing it!’” nd as for that famous climactic note “ ell, I started to sing the end of Goldfinger, and when I had finished, ohn Barry turned to me and said, ‘Shirley, you have to hold that note till the end of the credits!’ p till then it was the longest note I had ever held I thought I was going to pass out, but I didn’t Bette avis once said that you know you’ve made it when drag queens start impersonating you. Bassey made it big with Goldfinger and drag ueens soon took note verything about Bassey is larger than life that powerful voice, those exaggerated facial expressions and those dramatic gestures. She is the perfect subject for drag performers ven today, somewhere in the world, you can pretty much guarantee that there’s a drag ueen doing a Shirley Bassey number s the ’ s drew to a close, her career began to flounder In 1967, one of her best-known singles, Big Spender, failed to make the top 2 She became a ta e ile and was unable to work in the for the ne t two years But she made a major comeback in the s, with hit singles like Something and Diamonds Are Forever, and a string of successful albums, from And I Love You So to Yesterdays. Two compilations made the top 2 Between and she scored an incredible hit albums in the charts In , she won the first ever Brit ward for best British female solo artist B SS ’S S ’ B I I S CONTROVERSIES. In 1981, she played Sun City in apartheid South Africa, breaking the cultural boycott. The following year, a concert in Cardiff was picketed by protestors In , her beloved daughter Samantha ovak died in suspicious circumstances in the iver von, near the Clifton suspension bridge in Bristol. Bassey has always maintained that her daughter’s death was no accident n in uiry returned an open verdict, though there was compelling evidence that a convicted murderer called ichael offat was somehow involved Bassey was so grief stricken, she was unable to sing for six months. Some fans thought she might never sing again hen in 1987, Bassey reached a whole new audience with The Rhythm Divine, written by Billy Mackenzie of The Associates and performed with Swiss electronic duo Yello. I still have vivid memories of that summer, hearing the song blasting out of Soho’s bars and across ykonos’ beaches I also recall seeing a Greek drag queen miming to the ➤

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There are depths of love and passion and pain you just donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get without commitment to people and to life

L I V I N G L EG E N D

She caused a sensation at the Glastonbury music festival, dressed in a pink Julien Macdonald dress and customised wellington boots

song in a club in a os ike I said, you’re never that far from a drag ueen doing a Shirley Bassey number oking aside, there aren’t many singers who can successfully reinvent themselves years into their career en years later in , Bassey did it again with he ropellorheads and the brilliantly knowing single History Repeating he song could have been a commentary on her career She’d seen it before and she’d seen it again, yet here she was, back in the spotlight and sounding better than ever She says she never used to get nervous before a performance “But as I got older the nerves started, and nerves sometimes make you make mistakes, like forgetting the words which is a singer’s nightmare!”

PHOTOGRAPHS: ERIK KABIK, LITTLE FANG PHOTOGRAPHY

SI S SI 2 when she caused a sensation at the lastonbury music festival, dressed in a pink ulien acdonald dress and customised wellington boots he girl from iger Bay was now a ame and her wellies were inscribed with the letters “ SB” in diamant “It was a fantastic e perience,” she recalls “ nce in a lifetime ever would I have seen myself perform at lastonbury and yet here I was he crowd was wonderful, the sun came out and we all had a good time ” s for being made a ame, she describes it as the highlight of her career “It was a wonderful e perience and I’ll cherish that moment forever ” In 2 , Bassey released a new album, Get The Party Started arking years since her first ever chart success, the album reached number in the album charts, proving, once again, that she could still compete with artists half her age In 2 , she continued to prove her cultural relevance with an album called The Performance ecorded with ames Bond composer avid rnold acting as co producer, the album ➤

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featured songs written especially for her by artists as varied as ufus ainwright, the anic Street reachers, ary Barlow, unstall, et Shop Boys, on Barry, on Black and ick odgson of the aiser hiefs Since then, she’s performed at the ueen’s diamond jubilee concert at Buckingham alace, recorded with aloma aith and sung with ichael Ball and lfie Boe as there been a favourite collaboration “ ach collaboration has been e tremely special,” she says tactfully “I can’t choose just one hen there are others who I always wanted to sing a track with but who are no longer with us, like Sinatra, Sammy avis unior and lvis ” I S there’s been a BB drama called Shirley depicting her early life and career, as well as numerous television and stage appearances marking national occasions or raising money for I S charities fter so many decades at the top of her game, she could be forgiven if she chose never to perform or record again et in 2 2 , at the age of and at the height of a global pandemic, ame Shirley Bassey has decided to release one last album I Owe It All To You is her first recording in five years and her th studio album It features tracks handpicked by the singer to reflect her long and illustrious career, as well as new songs written especially for her Britain’s most successful female solo artist of all time describes the album as a thank you to the fans who’ve supported her for all these years he album has been well received he inancial imes called it “a lavish lowering of the curtains ” er biographer ohn illiams has cast doubt on whether this really is the final curtain, telling BB adio ales, “ ith someone like Shirley, never say never hen you have been singing for as long as she has, which is about years, I wonder if she will really give it up ” aybe she won’t aybe there’ll be an encore She’s a diva, after all, and divas tend to live by their own rules “I love singing,” Bassey says “It has been my life and will always be ollow your passion!” But if this truly is Bassey’s final farewell, then it’s a hell of a way to go out I Owe It All To You shows her in fine voice It’s an impressive album by anyone’s standards or a woman of , it’s remarkable hat a singer hat a performance ow perfectly Shirley I Owe It All To You is out now on Decca Records

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the rocky mountain outdoor paradise A L E X B E N A S U L I R E V E A LS H I S I N S I D E R T I P S T O T H E S P E CTA C U L A R , U P S C A L E C O L O R A D O W I N T E R D E ST I N AT I O N , T H AT A LS O P O S I T I V E LY S H I N E S I N THE SUMMER MONTHS

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OASTING MORE THAN five thousand acres of some of the most diverse skiing on the planet, plus state-of-the-art ski lift and snow making technology, not to mention a smart and bu y centre with world class restaurants and shopping, it’s not hard to see why Vail is consistently ranked as one of the most popular, successful and most coveted ski resorts in the world. Indeed, Vail achieves excellence in almost every glamorous foot it puts forward. Add to this jaw dropping Rocky Mountain vistas, seven legendary Back Bowls spanning seven miles and masses of dry powder matched with brilliant sunshine and ruggedly irresistible estern merican charm, and ail more than lives up to its moniker of “like nothing on earth ” ➤

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From top to bottom: Vail village; Kayaking in Gore Creek

FOR A PLACE SO DEEPLY EMBEDDED IN NATURE, Vail is remarkably easy to reach. Eagle County Regional Airport is only half an hour away and served by direct flights from numerous US hubs. But despite the convenience of landing minutes from ail, there’s nothing like driving the two hour ascent along Interstate , olorado’s main mountain artery, from Denver to Vail. As you traverse this epic highway, the igh lains yield almost immediately to tree covered hills and mountains. Narrow passes and soaring peaks compete with national parklands and former mining towns to create a mounting sense of anticipation (verging on theatrical) well before arriving in Vail. A veritable Rocky Mountain experience from the very start, arriving into Vail on four wheels is a must for any first visit. Colorado Mountain Express provides regular connections between the airports and ail If you’re travelling solo, be sure to bag the front seat next to the driver for the most legroom and best views. ➤ oloradomountainexpress.com nlike other olorado ski resorts, purpose built ail was founded in the mid s by a group of friends who fell in love with the Gore Mountain Range in which the resort sits. More than seventy years later, their dream of creating a winter sports mecca is stronger than ever. And what Vail perhaps lack in period charm, it more than makes for it in terms of world class facilities and all round convenience

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

PHOTOGRAPH: TOM COHEN

S P OT L I G H T VA I L

VAIL VILLAGE IS A COMPACT AND PEDESTRIANISED CENTRE, built in charming Tyrolean style within a narrow valley pass enclosed by mountains on all sides. In the shadow of the ski mountain, the clock tower at the corner of Bridge Street and Gore Creek Drive is the de facto village square, surrounded by shops and restaurants. Gurgling in the summer and almost frozen in the winter, Gore Creek, a tributary of Eagle River, ambles through the middle of the mountain valley pass that makes up the length of town, connecting Vail Village to the adjacent neighbourhoods of Lionshead to the west and Golden Peak to the east. From one end of town to the other is a thirty minute walk ree bus services connect ailâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s three main areas and further afield, providing warmth, shelter and convenience during winter when skis, boots and snowboards are in tow. During the ski season, Vail Village is a magical winter wonderland, with snow laden tree branches glistening in the sun and moonlight. In summer, everything turns green and mountain flowers bloom a completely different yet e ually visually spectacular natural experience. The main event at Vail is obviously the ski mountain and what a main event it is. Surpassed only by Whistler in Canada, Vail has the largest number of skiable acres on the continent and the most groomed ski runs of anywhere in â&#x17E;¤

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PHOTOGRAPH: ANDREW MAGUIRE

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Two Elk

the world, appealing as much to beginners and intermediates as it does to experts and off-piste enthusiasts. Unlike most of Europe, where much of the skiing is above the tree line, the entire front of Vail Mountain is carpeted in evergreens, with the ski runs and connecting walkways carved in amongst them. This not only creates distinct runs and divides the mountain, but also provides for stunning scenery and, given the high altitude, Vail is virtually assured of good snow conditions throughout the season. Dry air delivers much loved champagne-like powder as well as frequent, crystal clear blue skies when the sun is out. VAIL IS FAMOUS FOR ITS LEGENDARY BACK BOWLS endless expanses of open, mostly south-facing, more advanced terrain. The Back Bowls and adjacent Blue Sky Basin border wilderness extending for miles and miles, literally on top of the world, offering dramatic views towards some of orth merica’s highest peaks ven during the season’s busiest period, you can be carving virgin tracks in fresh powder in the far reaches of the Back Bowls on any given day. During the rest of the season and for early risers, the terrain is so expansive that you can often have parts of it practically to yourself. ➤

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PHOTOGRAPHS: MILCHEV

ONE OF THE FEATURES OF SKIING OR SNOWBOARDING AT VAIL, is that beginners and intermediates have access to almost all parts of the mountain, including the upper reaches. This makes it possible for groups of various abilities to spend the day together, with the advanced and more intrepid peeling off from time to time and re-joining the group when they feel like it, either at the bottom of the chairlifts or at one the many slope side restaurants. Located near the top of chairs 14, 17, 21 and 36, the cavernous Two Elk sits at a lofty 3,425 metres atop the China Bowl and is a great option for a casual meal. Amazing views combined with traditional timber lodge architecture deliver an excellent resort-run mountain top dining experience or meeting place. ➤ +1 970 754 8245 For a more refined mountainside dining experience, complete with a menu of updated culinary classics with a quintessentially alpine feel, head to The 10th located atop Gondola One at Mid Vail. Here slippers are provided once ski boots have been removed and diners feast on lamb, venison, elk and bison whilst taking in spectacular mountain views. ➤ he10thvail.com For some, après ski means shopping and if you visit just one boutique in Vail let it be Gorsuch. Synonymous with high-end fashion, home accessories and lifestyle items, Gorsuch also

Below: The Sonnenalp

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From top to bottom: The 10th; The Lodge at Vail; Sweet Basil

offers an excellent range of ski equipment and winter wear. Be prepared to splurge but it will be worth it! ➤ orsuch.com In terms of après ski entertainment, Vail tends to be more relaxed and casual than upscale and fancy, with a friendly western US vibe pleasantly palpable in most venues arfinkel’s in ionshead or “ arfs” as it’s affectionately known locally), is conveniently positioned at the base of the slopes, has a large sundeck, popular happy hour and a DJ. ➤ arfsvail.com. In the heart of Vail Village, the landmark Red Lion is great for après ski people watching and often has live music. ➤ edlion.com. Meanwhile, Los Amigos serves basic yet tasty Mexican fare and offers great views towards Vail Mountain. ➤ osamigos .com

WHEN IT COMES TO PREMIUM DINING EXPERIENCES, visitors to Vail are spoilt for choice by a number of excellent restaurants that showcase the best contemporary American cuisine. A favourite is Sweet Basil, where a vibey bar for predinner drinks and nibbles gives way to a fabulous dining room overlooking Gore Creek. Coupled with a superb wine list, its innovative, American farm-to-table cuisine showcases the w eetbasilvail.com. For region’s freshest ingredients ➤ a slightly more casual meal head to Bully Ranch in the Sonnenalp Hotel, where southwestern and American classics including ribs, buffalo and beef burgers are the hearty onnenalp.com gastronomic order of the day. ➤ Those seeking an authentic Colorado culinary experience might fancy taking a twenty-minute drive to frozen-in-time Minturn, a former mining town just west of Vail and home to the inturn Saloon, established in the ‘ s ere, ta idermy and ’s ski posters adorn the walls of the bar, where skiers and boarders cluster by the fireplace downing pitchers of the legendary house margarita eanwhile, the saloon’s restaurant serves Mexican food, ribs and wild game in a rustic and boisterous setting, especially around pm on’t let the somewhat rowdy atmosphere put you off though Minturn Saloon is as firm a favourite with the well-heeled as it is with the locals! ➤ i nturnsaloon.com ➤

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PHOTOGRAPHS: JACK AFFLECK

Eagle Bahn Gondola

VAIL OFFERS A MYRIAD OF ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS, from motels to condos and luxe lodges to sumptuous five-star hotels with all the bells and whistles. hilst there’s a our Seasons in the village and a it arlton in ionshead, the grande dame of ail’s lu ury hospitality offerings is the odge at ail, one of the resort’s only truly ski-in-ski-out properties. Built in 1962 and operated in the style of a European chalet, the odge at ail was the resort’s first hotel and continues to set the bar for exclusivity whilst also being perfectly situated at the base of the mountain and just steps from Gondola One. Whether you stay in a room, studio, suite or private on-site residence of up to three bedrooms, all of the lodge’s accommodation is beautifully finished and oo es rustic elegance. There is basically no better address. ➤ odgeatvail.rockresorts.com or a slightly more intimate affair and arguably the resort’s best spa, you can’t beat he Sonnenalp for its alpine style, charming rooms and incredible breakfasts. Run like a familyowned property but achieving excellence in every way, The Sonnenalp is also home to some of ail’s best restaurants istening to a live performer’s rendition of ohn enver’s Rocky Mountain High beside a fireplace in the hotel’s ing’s Club lounge may well be the highlight of your visit to Vail! ➤ ➤ onne alp.com

ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

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IS S I I ,“ I B S S ” Indeed, the warmer months see fireside cosiness and snow-covered magic replaced by al fresco wonders and an eruption of different shades of green. Summer temperatures are comfortable rather than hot, with average highs of up to and evenings that necessitate a sweater and possibly also a jacket. Relative to buzz of the ski season, everything quiets down to a whisper, bar the gentle babbling of Gore Creek through the centre of town. Vail Mountain becomes a steep field of thick grass, where a forest of birches in full leaf joins the evergreens to complete a simply glorious tableau. The mountain and some of the lift network remain open for walking and hiking. Experiencing ail in summer can genuinely be described as spiritual it really is that beautiful. In the summer, the whole of Vail is an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise rom cycling to horseback riding and river rafting to fly fishing, there’s arguably a greater variety

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of things to do than during the ski season. Seven golf courses located within the valley, many of them awardwinning, feature spectacular views Summer also sees ailâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cultural scene explode with various music, arts and food festivals happening from June through to September. Though still popular, summer is technically off-season for Vail, meaning that great accommodation bargains can also be had. Winter or summer, jet-setter or local, everyone who visits Vail is drawn by the amazing scenery, a love of the outdoors and the allure of the American Southwest. And whilst superb restaurants, great shopping and a burgeoning arts scene are the icing on the cake, the real show-stopper are the majestic Rockies. Vail is undoubtedly one of the best places in the North American continent to enjoy this incredible mountain range and be immersed in the beauty of Mother Nature, whilst also enjoying the creature comforts of warm, 21st century hospitality. For me, Vail truly is like nowhere ail.com else on earth. â&#x17E;¤

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T H E C E L E B R AT E D A M E R I C A N S I N G E R - S O N GW R I T E R , M U C H L A U D E D F O R H E R S U LT R Y M U S I C WHICH FRINGES ON CLASSICAL A N D J A Z Z , T E L LS U S A B O U T H E R N E W A L B U M , M U C H O F W H I C H WA S R E C O R D E D D U R I N G LO C K D OW N

MINUTES WITH

melody gardot When did you first realise that you wanted to be a singer-songwriter? From

the age of 16, I had played in piano bars. But my musical journey really began with a serious car accident at the age of 19, after which music therapy greatly helped me overcome sight and sound perception issues, and memory and speech problems. Confined to bed but able to hold a guitar, I composed songs and taught myself to sing. Who influenced you musically during this difficult time? Stan Getz, Chet Baker and

Chopin. How did your accident affect you creatively? Such a challenge at the age

of 19, changed my point of view forever. It made me forever curious to learn. Since I did not experience collegiate study, I now want to keep learning until the day I pass. I believe that curiosity and wisdom make a great human being.

You’ve lived in New York, Los Angeles, Lisbon and currently Paris. Do you like moving around?! ot really I’m just

not able to be permanently installed anywhere yet. Due to the nature of my work, I’ve mostly lived out of suitcases for the past ten years or so. I use the short ‘off periods’ in between records to travel and visit places, but I don’t spend years in these locations. Saying that, despite the brevity of my travels, I do tend to dive into a new destination uite uickly I’m very interested in learning about new cultures, so I often chose places that I’ve never visited before, where I can absorb as much as I possible. Funnily enough, three months later, I can usually speak the language and know all of the local hot spots!

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Île Saint-Louis

I N T E RV I E W What influences the music you are making today? My new album Sunset In The

Melody in Paris

Blue is all about love, pure love. In the song choices and in the way that we had to work, it required a considerable amount of determination to make an album during such a strange time. Every single person who was involved with the album had to give so much, and in circumstances that really were not conducive to making music. So, the album really was a labour of love. What propels you to make a new album?

It depends on how much material I’ve written and where I have travelled to for inspiration. For example, Currency Of Man was an album that spoke primarily about the “value of a human life” It was made after spending time in LA. Meanwhile, The Absence came out of a period of travelling between Lisbon, Brazil and Argentina. In a nutshell, I tend to write everywhere I go, and once my wings are tired and my book is full, I say “ok, let’s make a record”

PHOTOGRAPHS: ANN MARIE WILKINS, GAVIN BOND

Was the first, long lockdown a productive time for you? After the initial shock

had set in, I decided that it was a good time to clean out the dust bunnies! Then it became apparent that musicians were struggling, and I wanted to do something to keep people working, so I put out a call on social networks for musicians to join me on a new project titled From Paris with Love. We received hundreds of online submissions, which we reviewed with producer Larry [Klein] and Vince [Mendoza] who wrote the arrangement. Released in May 2020, all musicians involved in the final track were paid a fee and it raised money for charity Protégé Ton Soignant, to purchase essential healthcare supplies for French hospitals and caregivers. So, yes, I was fairly productive! Which tracks on Sunset In The Blue are most meaningful to you? Moon

River, surprisingly, is one that stands out for me. I never expected

to sing it, but it came out of a moment where Larry [Klein] was pitching ideas. hen he mentioned how he hadn’t heard a version like udrey epburn’s in , we were sitting with Al Schmitt, who suddenly chimed in, saying “I know what you’re talking about I recorded it!” y jaw dropped to the floor it was the first record Al had produced and the first he won an award for. When put a smile on his face, it was at that moment that I wanted to sing that song, for Al, to make him happy. How was working with Sting?

Great, Sting is fantastic and a total gentleman It’s all about the music with him. Due to the situation, we worked on Little Something long distance. Whilst it was a challenge for us to work this way, I was happy that we could pull it off! First place you plan to visit in Paris after the current lockdown? If it’s Spring,

I’ll probably head to the river, to le Saint-Louis, sit under the trees and just look at the city in the sunlight here’s something beautiful about the bridges across the Seine and the way the sunlight hits them. Any other musicians you currently admire?

António Zambujo, who is the gentleman you hear singing on C’est Magnifique I’m thrilled that he is a part of this project, because I’ve admired his voice and work for quite some time. Where in the world do you most love to kick back and relax? Any

beach where the water is warm

António Zambujo

enough to swim and the stars are not blocked by city lights at night. What are you reading at the moment? I’m

a big fan of plays in general, because they’re non committal in the sense that I can jump in and out of the dialogue. ne of my favourites is om Stoppard’s 5-book Plays Series. That series is always with me. Arcadia, The Invention Of Love and Every Good Boy Deserves Favour are also fantastic. At the moment, I’m also reading atti Smith’s Devotion in French. The next destination on your “hot list” just as soon as we’re allowed to travel again?

hen the current situation ends, I’ll probably go to Rio. I love spending time there for composing and also to give back a little here’s a wonderful organisation in Brazil which we started to work with in 2012, that teaches music, dance and poetry to underprivileged kids. The sound of their laughter and to see the smiles on their faces is one of the best feelings in the world.

Tom Stoppard’s Play Series T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

D ESTINATION T R AV E L L E R L OW D OW N

F L O R I D A’ S PA R A D I S E C O A ST

wildislands, white sand & culture Seagate beach, Naples

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Naples Botanical Garden

T MIAMI INTERNATIONAL, I hop into my hire car and head west towards the ulf of e ico lorida’s southwest contains an array of truly enticing coastal gems In just under two hours driving through vast wetlands and sprawling natures preserves I arrive at my first stop

NAPLES stylish community often referred to as the region’s hub, aples is known for its sophisticated vibe that effortlessly blends nature and glamour owntown, tropical landscaped streets are dotted with designer shops, well heeled bouti ues, art galleries, pavement caf s and an impressive selection of high end restaurants serving fresh off the dock seafood owards the coast, sandy beaches and multiple adventures on the water await.

S O P H I A A MO S E X P LO R E S T H I R T Y M I L E S O F P R I ST I N E B E A C H E S A N D N AT U R A L W I L D E R N E S S I N A M E R I C A’ S S U N S H I N E STAT E , L A P P E D BY THE GULF OF MEXICO’S T U R Q U O I S E WAT E R S

hen I feel a warm sea bree e coming off the ulf, the beach begins to call In and around aples, there are many to choose from or nature lovers, elnor iggins State ark is one of the most natural stretches of dunes and protected beaches in the county acre park paradise, separated from the mainland by tidal creeks and mangrove swamps, resident gopher tortoise forage on wild sea oats and other low growing plants in the secluded dunes while visitors swim, scuba dive, kayak and fish along more than a mile of loridastateparks.org unspoiled white sugar sand beach ➤ lternatively, head to Barefoot Beach reserve, in a hidden corner of nearby ollier ounty, and spread out on more than two miles of palm-lined natural oceanfront, complete with shallow waters lapped by gentle waves, making it ideal for olliercountyfl.gov families. ➤ After a swim, head inland for some culture to the Naples rt istrict, which has blossomed during the last decade into the largest concentration of professional working artists in Southwest lorida ere you’ll find independent painters, ceramicists, sculptors, jewellers and photographers, many of whom welcome visitors into their working studios and aplesartdistrict.com ➤ galleries. ➤

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T R AV E L L E R L OW D OW N F L O R I DA’ S PA R A D I S E C OA S T

I I due south from the art district, aples Botanical arden is the perfect place for a rela ed, afternoon stroll through e pansive world class gardens on’t miss “ he reserve” a uni ue acre nature sanctuary filled with various habitats which are home to hundreds of animal species ranging from tree frogs to eagles If you’re feeling peckish, make a pit stop at ogg af for some uick, uality fare fashioned from fresh, local and seasonal produce aplesgarden.org by talented young chef ack aben ➤ Before heading out to dinner, a stop by historic, 2 year old landmark aples ier is a must bviously, it is prettiest at sunset s you watch the burnt orange ball slowly drop into the calm blue waters, you may well be lucky enough to spot a pod of dolphins racing each other across the hori on hen I arrive at Sea Salt for dinner, head hef abri io ielli recommends his popular “ ire Ice” platter to start, consisting of si oysters accompanied by crispy calamari o follow, I feast on a superb Swordfish uttanesca, which leaves easaltnaples.com me virtually no room for dessert! ➤ Wonderfully classy, stylish and refined, yet super familyfriendly thanks to an interactive environmental children’s program, aples’ it arlton is a laid back yet chic version of the upscale hospitality brand and the perfect place to rest your head ith guest rooms and suites, most of which enjoy spectacular views of the ulf of e ico, this secluded 2 acre property is positioned on the edge of pristine anderbilt Beach and feels more like a retreat than a hotel ➤ tzcarlton.com fter leaving aples, anthophiles and those with a penchant for orchids should make a slight detour due east for about thirty minutes to orkscrew Swamp Sanctuary, which is home to a number of threatened and endangered orchid species, as well as hundreds of alligators, otters, white-tailed deer and red bellied turtles ➤ orkscrew.audubon.org ➤

Clockwise from left: The Ritz-Carlton, Naples; Ghost Orchids, Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary

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Above: JW Marriott, Marco Island Right: Naples pier

MARCO ISLAND eading south for 2 miles, in just under thirty minutes I am at the start of the Ten Thousand Islands that stretch to lorida’s southern tip boatman’s paradise of hundreds of keys some no bigger than a basketball court , sheltered waterways and mangrove fringed cays, where dolphins, manatees and sea turtles compete for attention with gators and crocs, this beautiful watery wilderness has barely changed in more than a century. ome to some of merica’s most scenic and e pansive beaches, arco Island also offers easy access to the ulf of e ico and the estuaries of the verglades s I coast over S S olley Bridge and navigate towards my lodgings through charming, palm tree-lined streets, the pristine coastline comes into view ositioned in the heart of arco Island’s four miles of gorgeous beach, the spectacular arriott resort is laden with a fantastic array of top-flight amenities, setting is apart from other five star properties on the island he arriott is also perfectly placed for eco tours into the neighbouring en housand Islands ational ildlife efuge as well as the verglades themselves I head to the resort’s separate, adults only sanctuary of Balinese inspired rooms and suites, Sirene, which boasts its own rooftop pool and cocktail bar ➤ arriott.com little peckish, I head to much lauded uinn’s on the Beach, linked to the hotel, where I tuck into a delicious bowl of aribbean style shrimp and make a mental note to return for the fire dancing show at sunset! Water is a way of life in this historic, nautical community

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and so, after a uick browse of the shops at splanade arina, I hop aboard the emmingway ater Shuttle towards Keewaydin Island, to while away the afternoon reading and swimming on miles of untouched while sand. I spot a pod of dolphins as we cruise towards Keewaydin. After a few hours of snoo ing and la ing around in the loridian sunshine, I spot a beautiful conch shell to add to my collection and head back to arco or dinner, I head a little south from the arriott, to arco Island Beach cean esort ome to award winning Sale e epe, I take a seat on the restaurant’s terrace for an al fresco sunset meal of superb Italian cuisine prepared by chef ndrea irino y lobster linguini main is spectacular, served with a side of alabrian chili and garlic broccoli I end the meal on a caffeine high, courtesy of a classic Tiramisu accompanied by an espresso martini ➤ ale-e-pepe.com he following day calls for some adventure and arco Island is an ideal place for some activity on the water here is no better way to e plore the pristine a uatic landscapes, and get your adrenaline pumping, than aboard a ave unner ssentially a souped up jet ski, as I whi through the mangroves and spot dolphins and countless e otic birds, I feel like ames Bond for a few hours ➤ arcoislandwatersports.com or a more sedate water borne e perience, families can become scientists for a few hours aboard the olphin plorer a uni ue eco sightseeing boat, which studies wild dolphins, assists naturalists, collects data and logs photos as part of the , Islands olphin roject ➤ ➤ olphin-study.com

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Above: Keewaydin Island; Right: Derelict Cape Romano Dome House, south of Marco Island

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E V E R G L A D E S N AT I O N A L PA R K o trip to lorida’s aradise oast is complete without e ploring the stunning verglades ational ark fficially recognised as a S orld eritage Site and part of the largest wetland ecosystem in the States, this vast, subtropical region provides an important habitat for numerous rare and threatened species, including manatees, merican alligators and endangered lorida panthers ut of the park’s three entrances, each of which is close to a different city, the verglades ity ntrance is closest to ps.gov/ever aples ➤ overing an area of million acres spanning three counties, it’s best to e perience this majestic wilderness via one of the many professional guided tours on offer I opt for a guided kayak tour, which kicks off at sunrise hile paddling our way through winding mangrove tunnels and vast bays, my incredibly early start is rewarded with multiple dolphin sightings in close pro imity to my kayak or families, twisting through the en housand Islands from verglades ity to arco Island and ideal for a shorter adventure, the aradise oast Blueway provides miles of interconnected paddling trails suitable for kayakers, canoeists and stand up paddleboarders co verglades run tours throughout the year, complete with guides who know the waters well, including e actly where and when to spot wildlife ➤ ➤ coeverglades.com

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dine with us. stay with us

nobuhotelmiamibeach.com

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PHOTOGRAPH: G. GARDNER

FOR A BIT OF A THRILL, air boats are propelled by an aircraft type propeller and navigate the verglades’ shallow waters at varying speeds, providing an up close and personal view of acres of grasslands any guides provide running commentaries on the area’s ecosystem, which makes an air boat ride both fun and educational ➤w ootenseverglades.com In the evening I head into verglades ity, also known as the ‘Stone rab apital of the orld’, for it is here, from mid ctober through ‘til ay, that the meatiest claws in the state are caught by local fishermen Buttery, sweet and simply delicious, stone crab claws are widely celebrated at festivals and special events in restaurants throughout the city fter days of culinary indulgence, I opt for a casual spot and grab a local favourite from ity Seafood, which is set in a small fishing village Served straight from the chef’s boat, a fresh grouper sandwich is typical of verglades seafood fare and makes for a uick, delicious and filling meal! ➤ ityseafood1.com

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F E E D Y O U R M I N D , B O DY & S O U L lorida’s aradise oast is recognised as one of the most happy and healthy communities in the States he destination is also part of the Blue ones initiative, that recognises the importance of wellbeing and leading a healthy lifestyle. Beyond the untold natural benefits of being close to the beach and sea and all the associated activities, lorida’s aradise oast is brimming with ways to rela , recharge and keep well. oga is a popular activity, with many hotels and private studios throughout the region offering countless classes at varying levels he best way to find your inner self is to grab a mat and head for the beach at sunrise aples Beach and anderbilt Beach are amongst the favourites If biking is your thing, lorida’s aradise oast offers miles of pathways to explore on two wheels, not least throughout the pictures ue streets of aples and along arco Island’s gorgeous, long beach ou can pack everything you need for a beach day on a Beach Bum bike, including beach chairs! ➤ eachbumbikerentals.com If you enjoy nothing more than escaping to the greens, there are more than ninety golf courses in lorida providing the most holes per capita in the States ogether with three annual tournaments, the state is well known globally as a golfer’s paradise nd while many courses are private, e clusive access to some during low season ay late ovember can often mean greatly reduced rates for visitors

B I , lorida’s aradise oast is hard to beat Straddling everything from upscale shopping and world-class culinary experiences to languid beaches, wild beauty spots and championship golf courses, it’s a coastline that is relatively easy to reach from urope outside of a virus pandemic! and offers everything a cultured traveller could possibly desire ➤ aradisecoast.com

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MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE

Harry

Connick Jr.

T H E H O L LY W O O D , B R O A D WAY A N D R E C O R D I N G STA R H A S B E E N P E R F O R M I N G S I N C E H E WA S F I V E Y E A R S O L D . T H E N E W O R L E A N S N AT I V E TA L K S FA I T H , F O R T U N E , M A R D I G R A S A N D M U S I C W I T H ST E FA N K Y R I A Z I S

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Few people have started their careers as young as you. Tell us about that first public appearance. I remember I loved playing the piano when I was little, from around the age of three. I was always obsessed with how I could press the keys down and people responded. It was like magic. When I was five, my mother Anita really wanted me to play at this event for my father Joseph, who was seeking election as the district attorney of New Orleans Parish. I played he Star Spangled Banner. When it was over, my dad had to tap me on the shoulder to stop because I was ready to launch into something else. You played with the New Orleans Symphony at nine and recorded your first album at ten. That’s quite the prodigy! From the age of five, I would play on stage with professional bands alongside my childhood best friend Shannon Powell, who went on to become one of ew rleans’ great drummers It was my whole life. Even then I felt the insatiable desire to perform. That part of me has never changed. I still feel excited and inspired. I still feel like that little boy. I remember going to see my teacher, the legendary jazz pianist Ellis Marsalis, when I was a teenager and he was in his forties and fifties hen I’d go to his house, there would be music manuscripts sprawled everywhere and he’d

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be practicing I remember thinking, “ od, I hope I get to be that age and I’m still working, still passionate ” It’s art, there is no final chapter, we are always evolving and challenging ourselves. It is thrilling to be uncomfortable, to go to new places, to grow. What was it like growing up in New Orleans? It is an incredible place, but I didn’t realise how special it was until I left. Me and my sister Suzanna were raised blind to everything - colour, sexuality, creed. New Orleans is such a wild duality of deeply religious and debauched. The Mardi ras there is so cra y, but you have to get home that final uesday night or you’re arrested s midnight turns into sh Wednesday, the police come out and everybody is off the streets. he ne t day, everybody has their ashes on their forehead the same people who were out all night for two weeks It’s a fascinating study in functional religion and community. ew rleans’ ardi ras celebrates life, love and difference. These things co-exist in all of us. We are complex creations, but people have so many issues with what is different from them. I try to love as deeply as I can and believe in everyone It wasn’t until I moved to ew ork that I realised that this wasn’t normal everywhere else I was like, “ ait, why is that an issue here ”

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So, how did you end up in New York with a record deal, straight out of school? When I was 14, I won a jazz competition in New Orleans, staged by the ational ssociation of a ducators eorge Butler, who worked in A&R at Columbia Records, heard me play and said, “ hen you come to ew ork, call me ” s soon as I could, I moved to ew ork at and I called him every day trying to get a deal. In the meantime, I was just walking around trying to find places to play, whether it was a restaurant or church. I was just tapping on windows, peering in places to see if they had a piano. I needed the money and I would make $25 here, $50 there. And then I found jazz bar Chez Josephine. It was started by Jean Claude Baker, one of osephine Baker’s twelve adopted children e hired me and he was incredible, sweet and kind e used to feed me, pay me and yell at me for playing too loud e was unbelievable

I went back a few years ago and Jean Claude had died and bequeathed the place to the guy from Nicaragua who was the bottle washer when I was there It’s just incredible nyway, after about si months of hounding eorge Butler, he signed me to Columbia. After that, my manager, Ann Marie, came to hear me playing at Chez Josephine on her lunch hour to see if I was any good. We had met before, but she wanted to see for herself e hit it off and she took me on I was still only years old and the next year my first album was released. It was crazy.

PHOTOGRAPHS: MATTHEW MURPHY

When people try to censor or clean up parts of society they see as ugly, imperfect or just simply different, something is lost

When you were still only 22, the 1989 soundtrack of Sleepless In Seattle made you famous. Within two years you’d starred in Memphis Belle and been nominated for an Oscar, Emmy, Golden Globe and Grammy Awards. How did you handle all of that? I acted like an idiot, of course, but I was in my early twenties, e periencing things a lot of people don’t get to e perience, including flying all over the world and having people throw money at me enerally speaking, though, it didn’t last long And I knew right from wrong. I grew from the dumb things I did and then I met my wife Jill and we married in 1994. ➤

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Last year you released an album True Love: A Celebration of Cole Porter reinterpreting the music of the legendary composer who struggled with his personal life. How could you relate to that? A journalist asked me if it bothered me Porter was writing songs about men and I was like, “ irst, why would it Second, we are talking about one of the great composers of all time. ow offensive to assume everything he wrote was from personal e perience ” If I could only write autobiographically I’d have a very narrow perspective he whole point is to fantasise, explore different lives. I often imagine different versions of myself, with a different life, sexuality, faith. hat’s what artists do I revere the uality and talent which Cole Porter embodied. And he loved deeply.

You’ve been married for twenty-six years and have three daughters. What does family life mean to you? Well, all my life I mostly gravitated to women because I find them more interesting in so many ways. I truly love my wife and children. We are so proud of our girls who are functioning, contributing human beings. They challenge us and bring new perspectives every day. We just love each other, we dig each other e’re well aware of how fortunate we are that the five of us are so tight. I believe love comes above all. I have relationships with men and women in my life who I truly love. There are depths of love and passion and pain you just don’t get without commitment to people and to life hat’s what we try to teach our daughters. I try to think about what Christ wanted. Man, he loved everyone e didn’t judge I think about what some atholics say about gay people and I don’t believe that is what the man we worship wanted I also don’t believe in ‘tolerance ’ It implies there is something to overcome ou have to love a person for who they are.

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You then turned the album into a Broadway musical last Christmas, in which you headlined, as well as directing the show and arranging all the music. Are you a glutton for punishment? I know, right It had never been done before his show was uncharted territory. There was no handbook on how to be the headliner of a show, write the script and 1,400 pages of score, and direct. The amount of preparation was monumental, but once it went live it was also all about the errors and flaws that make it real in that moment hat’s what I’m proud of I can simultaneously be an obsessive control freak and let it all go in the moment, because they’re usually mutually e clusive hat’s what ja is Anyone can pick up a paintbrush and make it look like Picasso. But the greatest people learn perfection and then you can throw it away. Of course, there are great artists and musicians who haven’t learned that way reddie ercury, who I idolise, is probably the greatest example, but that is very, very rare. ➤

It’s art, there is no final chapter, we are always evolving and challenging ourselves

PHOTOGRAPHS: JUSTIN STANGEL

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There are depths of love and passion and pain you just don’t get without commitment to people and to life

How afraid are you for the performing arts during this global pandemic? We were about to take the show on tour, which has been cancelled probably right through 2 2 I’m terrified for the people who I worked with on Broadway and the tour. Not just performers, but all the people who drive the buses or set up the e uipment and sets hat’s their whole livelihood It’s scary I’m not afraid myself I am so blessed that we can wait this out. But there is a lot of social stuff going on that is scary and I have a lot of concern. Whether it is people affected by wildfires or social injustices, these are the things I worry and pray about. But my faith in humanity is not shaken. I am still an optimist. There is always something you can learn or grow from. This time has given me time to pause and ask myself what I can do to help. With the arts struggling worldwide, how important are they, not just to artists but to society? here are no statistics to art It’s not a football score It’s hard to articulate to people who are not wired that way, but it’s about humanity. Art takes over where words fail. It unites us but it has always co-existed next to the most difficult and troubling parts of life. When people try to censor or clean up parts of society they see as ugly, imperfect or just simply different, something is lost. What have you been doing during lockdown? e have been based at our summer house at ape od It’s been an awakening to discover that a lot of the things we used to do in person can be done online I don’t need to fly to LA just for a meeting and I have a recording studio at home where I’ve been working on a new album I’ve always wanted to do a gospel album, but I’ve never really had the chance until now It’s not gospel in the traditional sense, where it’s all liturgical and spiritual songs It’s more personal, a snapshot of all things related to faith

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good and bad uestioning if I believe in od, am I worthy, am I relevant It’s everything from celebratory to melancholy and all that’s in between I can’t record with anyone at the moment, so I have played all the instruments, laying down everything track by track. The content of the music has actually also helped me to get through these strange times. When you spend time with a song, you have to contemplate the lyrics. The music was perfectly in tandem with what I was feeling. What does it feel like when you are making art, when you lose yourself at the piano or on stage? It feels like you’re lying on the beach, your eyes are closed, you breathe the sea air and you feel fulfilled and your mind is at peace. For a moment you feel like you are ok with yourself, loving who you are and nothing else matters. Eventually you have to open your eyes and get on with your life. But for those moments it is magic and an incredible feeling. Speaking of the beach, what are your insider tips for Cape Cod? Many of the beaches in the area were protected by John Kennedy. There are miles and miles of undeveloped natural shoreline, where nature is untouched and unchanged. It is just so beautiful. The Cape is also these amazing little places famous for clam chowder, lobster rolls and fried clams. There are a million places at the fish pier where you can pick up boiled lobsters or crab cakes. I love to fish and catch tuna or striped bass. Jill is an amazing chef and can slice up raw tuna, add sesame, ginger, soy and avocados with rice crackers and it tastes incredible.

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By contrast, you also went on safari in South Africa earlier this year... I did it with Kate (my middle daughter) and it was just wonderful since it was so far from our regular lives. We love roughing it and being out in nature e’d be sitting in the jeep and the guide would stop and wait and there would be a lion three hundred feet away hen you blink and it’s ten feet from the vehicle ou just free e in awe of how small you feel e e perienced that every day e’d look at a termite mound and realise it goes fifty feet below the ground, with complex hierarchies, and we’d go back to our camp and oogle termites. We wanted to know about everything and learned so much, including the history of South Africa and apartheid. We visited the District Six Museum, which pays homage to a mixed-race community in Cape Town whose residents were forcibly removed from their homes in the 1970s. It was eyeopening for us e don’t get taught that in school back home in the S e don’t get taught our own history, much less other parts of the world.

Any other travel plans coming up? I’m taking a road trip with ate and eorgia my eldest to ew rleans e’re going to drive our down the ast Coast to spend time back home with my dad who is now 94. I have some work to do there and we will spend some time exploring the incredible country, which is something we love to do. What are your favourite things to do in New Orleans? The French Quarter is amazing. It is incredible because it is not only a tourist site but also a functioning neighbourhood with homes and swimming pools, restaurants and local grocery stores ou can appreciate all the history and architecture and hear a lot of great music. There is also a lot of history outside of the French Quarter. I suggest checking out some of the local neighbourhoods, like the musician’s village in the inth ard ou can see incredible local architecture and there are fish restaurants off the beaten path where you can try delicious local cuisine. I love ➤

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PHOTOGRAPHS: ERIK KABIK, LITTLE FANG PHOTOGRAPHY

Harry with his wife and daughters

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It is thrilling to be uncomfortable, to go to new places, to grow

traditional food like gumbo or red beans and rice. My wife is a crawfish freak and she’ll eat seven or eight pounds of it by herself hat’s a whole e perience hey dump these crawfish on the table in front of you and it’s a slow process as you peel them and remove the tail and shells. New Orleans Mardi Gras is one of the most famous in the world. How did you come to put your own personal stamp on it? New Orleans is a very celebratory city. They have festivals for everything they even have a fest fest celebrating celebrations! But for two weeks every year, ardi ras is a mammoth, city-wide blow-out. It brings everybody together. Even so, there were issues that bothered me in terms of race relations and gender representation over the years. All the parades were all white men, except one all-women and one all-black parade. For a celebration that is so socially significant, it seemed way out of whack to me back in 1993. It meant I couldn’t have my wife with me or my black friends So I was like, “I’m going to start my own parade, it’s a no brainer I’ve got black friends and women I want to ride on a float with ” hey still have ulu, an all black parade, which is fantastic and an all-female parade, but we started the rpheus parade in It’s for everyone and has become the biggest one at ardi ras every year What does a typical Connick Christmas look like? e’re super traditional e will open a present on hristmas Eve and then on Christmas Day we all sit around the tree. We might go to midnight mass or mass on Christmas Day. I see people saying they don’t want to call it “ hristmas” anymore but that’s what it is or so many people in the world it is what they celebrate. We talk about what it means, what we believe, what we uestion y od is love for everyone, whatever their ethnicity or sexuality. So, we talk about what the birth of esus means hat can we learn from this guy hat was he really like e didn’t look like the images we see in churches here e was an rab hether or not you

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believe he was the son of od, he was still as close to perfect as you can get hat did he really think and feel e try to humanise it and make it apply to us. What would Harry Connick Jr most want from Santa? rowing up, I really wanted a monkey but didn’t get one I still want a monkey y family are well aware of it, but it’s never going to happen. You just turned 54. What are your plans for the next 54 years? an, if I’m that lucky I ask myself, “ hat is the ultimate goal ow can you live at the highest level of your humanity ” I have experimented with many different ways. I have the utmost respect for the past, but ultimately it’s gone I prepare for the future, but I can’t control what’s coming So, living completely now is all that matters. Some days there are moments when I think I have nothing left to offer, I feel worthless nd the same day I’ll also still think I don’t have enough time to get all my ideas out. I need at least arryconnickjr.com another 50 years. ➤

PHOTOGRAPHS: ANN MARIE WILKINS, GAVIN BOND

PHOTOGRAPH: RIC STOVALL

I N T E RV I E W

TTHHEE CCUULLTTUURREEDD TTRRAAVVEELLLLEERR

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NIKKEI NINE at Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten I Neuer Jungfernstieg 9 I 20354 Hamburg www.nikkei-nine.com I +49 (0) 40 3494 3399 I nikkei.nine@fairmont.com

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INDIAN ACCENT NEW DELHI ➤ NEW DELHI, INDIA

M A X C H O C O L AT I E R ➤ LUCERNE, SWITZERLAND

HARROW & HOPE H ATT I N G L E Y NYETIMBER RIDGEVIEW Max Chocolatier, Lucerne

➤ ENGLAND

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

taste &sip

SINCE OPENING IN 2009, INDIAN ACCENT IN NEW DELHI HAS BEEN C O N S I ST E N T LY R A N K E D AS THE ONE OF THE C O U N T RY ’ S TO P D I N I N G D E ST I N AT I O N S . A L E X BENASULI CHECKS OUT ITS CULINARY C R E D E N T I A LS

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Puri aloo, sweet pumpkin, pickle

Tadka vegetables, roasted sesame salan

INDIAN ACCENT

➤ NEW DELHI

FOOD ATMOSPHERE

Manish Mehrotra

INDIAN FOOD IS BELOVED the world over for its rich sauces, succulent meats and evolved vegetarian dishes. Indeed, the subcontinent boasts vast and varied culinary traditions, many of which extend back centuries. In the north including the elhi area and ajasthan the food is heavily influenced by centuries of Mughal rule and includes Persian, Middle Eastern and Central Asian influences. Clay oven tandoori-style cooking originated in Persia and was brought to India via Afghanistan by Arabs. Meanwhile, Arabian and Portuguese trade and colonial links heavily influenced cooking in India’s southern coastal areas, where the food is spicier with a greater prevalence of chili and curry and an increased use of seafood. Across this vast nation, rice, millet, lentils and chickpeas are staples, while spices such as coriander, cumin, cardamom, ginger and garlic proliferate. Indian flat breads, such as naan and chapatis, and crisp breads including ➤

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Buratta chaat, crispy lotus root, summer tomato chutnet

poppadoms, are found throughout the country and accompany most meals. Almost every five-star hotel in Delhi incorporates a restaurant that serves Indian cuisine, but the emphasis is on delivering classic dishes at high standards. Some of these restaurants focus on regional offerings. But, while traditional Indian food is easy to find, as well as dishes prepared with less spices to appease Western palettes, innovative Indian fare is still relatively rare, and it is this that makes Indian Accent so unique. UNDER THE TUTELAGE OF AWARDWINNING CHEF Manish Mehrotra, Indian Accent has pioneered the fusion of traditional Indian heritage flavours with global influences and modern cooking techniques to offer Indianinspired cuisine with a contemporary twist, incorporating global influences and unorthodox yet tasty flavour pairings. Described by renowned restaurant critic ay aschler as “an unusually gifted chef”, at Indian ccent, ehrotra boldly shows the culinary world what the future of Indian cuisine looks like. As a result, since opening in 2009, Indian Accent has been consistently ranked as the one of the continent’s top dining destinations and is the only restaurant in India to repeatedly feature on the orld’s Best estaurants list

Indian Accent, New Delhi

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Baigan bharta cornets

TA S T E & S I P REVIEW

lies The Lodhi hotel. A former Aman property and a New Delhi icon, this modernist sanctuary, set amidst seven acres in the centre of the city, is unmissable for its honey-coloured, stoneclad exteriors.

Soy keema, quail egg, lime leaf butter pao

Today, it would be fair to say that Indian Accent in New Delhi is still something of an Asian gastronomic superstar, not to mention a go-to destination for global foodies core part of ehrotra’s inspiration comes from the super strict vegetarian home in which he grew up in atna a small town in eastern India ehrotra’s meat averse father was so insistent about what was consumed indoors, that his wife had to cook eggs for the children in separate cookware, outdoors on the terrace. Mehrotra has been known to trawl the food bazaars of Old Delhi, sampling street food in search of culinary stimulation. India has so much regional food diversity that his travels around the subcontinent also serve as inspiration. Add inherent pan Asian and Mediterranean food sensibilities, and it is hardly surprising that Mehrotra is widely regarded as the most exciting modern Indian chef in the world today. Playful and innovative, Indian Accent strives to offer dishes which are deliciously different yet familiar enough to appeal to the broadest and most discerning of palettes. Advance reservations of weeks and sometimes even months are required to assure a coveted seat at Indian Accent and serve as testament to its enduring popularity. My visit to its flagship New Delhi location confirmed the hype. Amidst the cacophony and managed chaos that is contemporary New Delhi

THE LODHI IS A WORLD AWAY from the traffic and street peddler-choked streets of New Delhi. However, since traffic throughout the city is notoriously bad and unpredictable, plenty of extra time should be allocated to arrive punctually for a reservation at Indian Accent. A verdant oasis of calm and unstuffy refinement, any semblance of stress that journeying to The Lodhi may create is expunged upon entering the hotel through a wall of intricate stone latticework, to be greeted by a pair of huge carved elephants. Boasting countless glass walls and lashing of dark wood paneling, 100-seat Indian Accent is situated on the ground floor of the hotel and includes three private dining rooms. Having moved in 2017 from The Manor, in the residential neighbourhood of Friends Colony, diners today enjoy an ambience at The Lodhi that compliments the spectacular food on their plates. nd the restaurant’s layout provides a dining experience that is calm, civilised and decidedly upscale, with a stylish bar adding to the sense of occasion. Dining at Indian Accent is a veritable journey of the senses. Taste, texture and presentation are executed flawlessly, laced with just enough fussiness to reveal the creativity and skill involved in showcasing each dish’s e otic flavours and seasonal produce in a unique way. The experimental and traditional are married in each dish with extreme skill and culinary success. More than anything, the food tastes wonderful, bursting with flavours. Although diners may order la carte, the chef’s tasting menu is the best way to sample the broad array of what’s on offer his being India, there is also a vegetarian tasting menu. Menus change seasonally to include fresh produce and introduce ➤

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DECEMBER – JANUARY 2021

TA S T E & S I P REVIEW

IND IAN AC C ENT, NEW D EL H I FOOD ATMOSPHERE

CORPORATE CHEF: Manish Mehrotra EXECUTIVE CHEF: Shantanu Mehrotra Indian Accent kulfis

ADDRESS: The Lodhi Hotel, Lodhi Road, New Delhi 110003, India TELEPHONE: +91 11 6617 5151 EMAIL: reservations. del@indianaccent.com WEBSITE: https://indianaccent.com CUISINE: Modern Indian OPENING HOURS: Daily 12:00-14:30 + 19:00-23:00 DINNER SITTINGS: 19:00 + 21:45 (last orders 22:30) LUNCH PRICE: Express tasting menu: 3-courses Rs. 2,800++, 4-courses Rs. 3,000++ DINNER PRICE: Chef’s tasting menu: vegetarian Rs. 3,600++, non-vegetarian Rs. 3,900++ IDEAL MEAL: Chef’s tasting menu

Mishti doi cannoli, sweet amaranth

RESERVATIONS: Essential WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes CHILDREN: 10+ years. No kids’ menu. CREDIT CARDS: All major PARKING: Free outside the restaurant TCT REVIEWER: Alex Benasuli for dinner Star ratings out of five reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service and, separately, the atmosphere in the dining room

new combinations and culinary developments. The tasting style of eating can often be tedious and stuffy but not at Indian Accent. Pulled pork quesadillas were enhanced by jackfruit. Wild mushrooms were served on a crisp paper-thin dosa and brought to life with a hint of wasabi raita. Tiger prawns were topped with morsels of bacon and homemade chutneys. John Dory was served with coconut barley and cashew pakora. My meal ended with a trio of desserts which included a saffron- infused ice cream which was so utterly sublime that the taste has lingered with me ever since. THE SERVICE THROUGHOUT MY MEAL WAS NOTHING SHORT OF EXCEPTIONAL, with every server able to explain each dish in easy-tounderstand detail. The delivery of each course was spot on, the entire dining experience flowing perfectly. While Indian food has always had its dedicated fan base, it has always bowed to tradition and classical preparation. Indian Accent shows that it can be exciting, modern and cutting-edge. Indian ccent’s ew ork outpost is routinely full booked for weeks, a testament to the brand’s broad appeal and ehrotra’s gift for making culinary inventiveness accessible and fun. By refashioning classical Indian dishes with global and modern twists, Mehrotra has firmly put Indian-inspired twenty-first century cuisine in the spotlight of the global food scene.

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taste &sip INSPIRED BY A BOY WITH AN ADDITIONAL CHROMOSOME, NICHOLAS C H R I S O ST O M O U VISITS A BOUTIQUE, FA M I LY - O W N E D S W I S S C H O C O L AT E FA CT O R Y, T H AT H A N D C R A FT S D E L E CTA B L E , A L L N AT U R A L P R E M I U M C O N F E CT I O N A R Y

Patrik and Max Koenig

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EXPE R

The Max Chocolatier boutique in Lucerne.

M A X C H O C O L AT I E R

➤ LUCERNE, SWITZERLAND

BOASTING A HISTORY of excellence in the field, Swiss chocolate brands Lindt, Toblerone, Läderach, Cailler and Nestlé are well-known globally, and have long been sold around the world. Indeed, Switzerland has played a long and important role in the history of chocolate as we know it today. In 1820, François-Louis Cailler rented factory space in Corsier-sur-Vevey in order to produce chocolate on a large scale, thus founding Swit erland’s first chocolate brand. In 1826, it was the turn of Philippe Suchard to set up a chocolate factory in Serrières, in the canton of Neuchâtel. Some fifty years later, Swiss chocolatier Daniel Peter was the first to successfully combine milk with chocolate, creating hugely successful milk chocolate, which was to link Switzerland with chocolate forever. And in 1879, Rodolphe Lindt created a specialist chocolate mi ing machine named a ‘conche’, because it was similar in shape to the seashell which is still used in the manufacture of chocolates to this day. Without these Swiss pioneers, the rest of the world may never have discovered the intense pleasure enjoyed when consuming truffles. Today, Switzerland is as famous across the world for its chocolate as it is for its skilled chocolatiers, many of whom are revered for the refined cocoa creations and delectable sweet treats they produce. Many Swiss chocolatiers still use traditional recipes and make every chocolate by hand. ➤

E RIENCE Manish Mehrotra

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taste &sip VERITABLE EXPERTS WHO REQUIRE LITTLE ENCOURAGEMENT to support their national industry, the most-keen supporters and top consumers of Swiss chocolate are the Swiss people themselves. Consuming between 11 - 12 kilos annually per person, the Swiss rank amongst the world’s top chocolate lovers ne such chocolate lover is Patrik König. Driven by a deep love for chocolate, as he travelled the world on business, König actively sought out the best chocolate, including visiting ateliers in Brussels, Paris, Barcelona, New York and Tokyo. Soon, König realised that whilst the IN D I A N FO O D I S B E LOV E D Swiss mass-produced a huge amount of T H E chocolate WORL V E R scale, quality onDanO industrial there was a distinct FOR IT S R I Cgap H inSthe A Umarket C E Sfor , gourmet, handmade Swiss confectionary, S U C C U L E N T M E AT S A N D the like of which Switzerland had never E V Obefore. LV E D E Gthe E TA IAN tasted So, V when bookRshop closed ne Et S to . Inig’s in E DISH N Dwatch E E Dstore , TH Lucerne, he took the opportunity to S U B C O N T I N E N T B O A ST S set-up Max Chocolatier, named after his VA Max. ST A N D VA R I E D son, lover who CAUchocolate LINAR Y T R dreamed A D I T IofO N S , owning his own chocolate factory, and the MANY OF WHICH EXTEND nig family’s hero, a was born with Bown’s ACK CENT RIES Syndrome asU a result of .having an extra copy of chromosome 21. Whilst own’s renders his life a little difficult at times, Max embodies untold qualities that his family seeks to share via its delightful chocolate. After Patrik König, his father and a young, award-winning chocolatier had scoured the planet for the highest quality ingredients and the finest cacao beans, and secured a grand cru couverture produced by Felchlin (which is the basic component of all its chocolates), Max Chocolatier opened its doors in 2009 on the corner of Lake Lucerne, making one young man incredibly happy. Since then, the brand has become known throughout

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TA S T E & S I P EXPERIENCE

Switzerland for its exquisite handmade truffles and exclusive single origin chocolate bars, the latter hailing from plantations in South America, West Africa, Asia and the Caribbean. Every delicious morsel produced by Max Chocolatier is handmade in small batches by a team of four chocolate-making magicians in a small factory above the shop in Lucerne using entirely natural, fair-trade and organic ingredients, without any preservatives whatsoever. SOMETHING OF A CHOCAHOLIC MYSELF having produced truffles as a child and sold them to friends and family I obviously couldn’t resist an invitation to explore the hallowed portals of Max hocolatier’s chocolate heaven nd so, on a sunny Swiss morning, I made the scenic kilometre drive from rich to ucerne Arriving at Max Chocolatier in Lucerne is a warm and cosseting experience, thanks in large part to the bouti ue’s elegant yet inviting interior, which makes extensive use of locally grown oak and granite from Vals, reflecting a respect for nature and tradition that are so important to the brand and its founders. nd then there’s the a hocolatier team, all of whom are chocolate lovers and obviously genuinely attached to the product. After meeting Nicolas Barmettler, the brand’s charming marketing and communications liaison, I’m introduced to isa elk who is to be my teacher, guide and taste master for the afternoon. After donning the appropriate hygiene wear to enter a chocolate making factory, we make our way upstairs to Manish Mehrotra where it all happens. In a room lined with shelves brimming with bo es and ribbons overlooking the promenade, Lake Lucerne and the Swiss lps beyond isa talks me through the

process of converting cacao to chocolate and recounts the various far-away places from which Max Chocolatier obtains its beans, not least the Bolivian jungle and the Dominican Republic. During a fascinating and relaxed hour, which includes a gentle introduction to the brand, I’m offered a rather palatable local sparkling wine to accompany the truffles, caramels, dragées, choco-fruits and chocolate squares I sample. Whilst every piece is delicious, the candied orange sticks coated in dark 68% grand cru Madagascan chocolate soon become my favourite. Next, we move into a rabbit warren of small rooms, each filled with all manner of chocolate making equipment, where I meet chef-chocolatier Daniel Huber. Reminiscent of a chocolate laboratory, here I learn about the various processes involved in making high-quality confectionary, and the vital role each machine plays, before Daniel demonstrates various processes. Fascinated by pretty much all of it and keen to discover what everything does, soon I’m invited to pour and decorate my own chocolate bar and put the finishing touches to some truffles It’s not as easy as it looks, but I end up with a fairly decent looking bar, made and personalised by my own fair hands, which tastes delicious even if it is not saleable in the shop downstairs! A few hours spent at Max Chocolatier in ucerne, in the company of the brand’s super-friendly and knowledgeable team, is to enjoy a unique and personal insight into the world of high-end Swiss chocolate making, learn some of the historic industry’s trade secrets and, most importantly, treat your tastebuds to the ultimate handmade chocolate delights. ➤ axchocolatier.com/en

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SOMMELIER

ENGLISH S PA R K I N G E N G L I S H S PA R K L I N G W I N E S A R E N O L O N G E R A N O V E LT Y A N D T H E U K I S N O W P O S I T I V E LY F I Z Z I N G W I T H G R E AT, B R I T I S H B U B B LY. T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R L O O K S AT S O M E O F T H E C O U N T R Y ’ S F I N E ST

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WHILE THE ALLURING I of a glass of bubbly has been synonymous with the vines and ch teau of rance’s Champagne region for more than three centuries, now into its fourth decade as a sparkling wine producer, England has amply demonstrated that its bubbly output is just as high quality. This is unsurprising to many, given that the French essentially stole the idea from England, which is the true, original home of sparkling wine. ngland’s Susse vineyards are on almost the same latitude as rance’s hampagne region, rainfall averages are year-on-year almost the same, and anyone who has ever taken the ferry from Calais to Dover has seen the white cliffs that reveal a soil type matching that of the northeast of France. The gentle climate allows the grapes to mature slowly, producing wines that are full of flavour and complexity. The chalky

soil imparts a minerality in the wines and growers have been particularly careful to clone the same grapes that are the lifeblood of the Champagne region. Regularly beating their French counterparts to gold medals and trouncing French Champagne in taste tests, the high uality of today’s nglish sparkling wines is largely thanks to a warming climate which brings riper grapes, major investment in establishing and running British wineries, and increased skill and professionalism of the people who grow the grapes and make the wine. Consequently, English sparkling wines are doing better now than ever before, and more people are opting for ngland’s homegrown rather than rench champers. Indeed, English sparkling wines can now be found on the wine lists of many of urope’s top restaurants, and some like openhagen’s Geranium and ondon’s Dinner by Heston Blumenthal even serve them by the glass. ➤

WINES

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HARROW & HOP E PHOTOGRAPHS: JACK AFFLECK, TOM COHEN

LOCATED IN MARLOW, Buckinghamshire, Harrow & Hope is owned by Henry Laithwaite, who is also the vineyard’s head winemaker and part of the Laithwaite family which is something of a vinous dynasty. The climate in Marlow is a little warmer than many South Coast vineyards, although the upshot of this is cooler spring temperatures, particularly at night, which come with a risk of frosts. Furthermore, the chalky site is full of flint, especially in the higher parts of the vineyard, meaning that the machinery needs to conquer more rugged terrain than usual. Hence the name, Harrow and Hope. Run by Henry and his wife Kaye, the relatively young brand’s very small team of six people (plus three dogs!) does literally everything on site in Marlow. They grow their own grapes and press, blend, bottle and label everything personally. A seriously hands-on business, every bottle is produced with love. Perhaps unsurprisingly therefore, arrow ope’s wines are already winning awards. In 2019, Harrow & Hope won UK winery of the year. Recently, its Blanc de oirs won the ’s best Blanc de oirs at the 2020 WineGB Awards, for the second consecutive year. ➤ arrowandhope.com ➤

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Owner and head winemaker, Henry Laithwaite

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PHOTOGRAPHS: THE ELECTRIC EYE

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H ATTING L EY VAL L EY

Hattingley Valley Vineyard

A FAMILY-OWNED BUSINESS which specialises in making premium English sparkling wines, Hattingley Valley was established in 2008 when owner Simon Robinson and his wife Nicola planted their first vineyard with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier on a north-facing slope atop the chalky soils of Hampshire. Today, more than 24 hectares (60 acres) of vines are managed across two well-situated sites, and nurtured throughout the growing year with an environmentally-sensitive approach to viticulture ensuring optimum ripeness, yield and quality of fruit. Sitting in quintessentially English

countryside yet the ’s first winery to use solar power, there’s a wonderful combination of the traditional and modern at Hattingley. Multiple award-winning head winemaker Emma Rice and the rest of her team oversee everything to the most minute detail, to ensure consistently elegant wines with finesse and a characteristic toasty flavour. ice’s winemaking style is deeply rooted in the traditions of Champagne, skillfully combining the extended barrel time and less ageing of the traditional Méthode Champenoise with the distinctive terroir of southern England. ➤ ➤h attingleyvalley.com

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PHOTOGRAPH: CAROL SACHS

Head winemaker Simon Roberts

R ID G EVIEW

Ridgeview’s Wine Garden

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SITUATED IN THE PICTURESQUE SOUTH DOWNS just north of Brighton, Ridgeview is nestled in a verdant basin with a warm microclimate, protected by the hills from the worst of the weather fronts sweeping in from the sea. An authentic family business founded by now deceased founder Mike Roberts, idgeview’s chief e ecutive amara Roberts runs the business and her brother Simon is the head winemaker. Both of their spouses, Mardi and another Simon, hold senior positions and four teenage lads are potential heirs to the cellar keys. Ridgeview has been producing worldclass English sparkling wine for more than two decades and five years ago was named the world’s best producer by the prestigious International Wine & Spirit Competition. It was the first time an English vineyard was named the world’s best producer in nearly half a century. Since winning the IWSC award, distributors from Germany, Belgium, Italy and Ireland have added Ridgeview to their rosters, in addition to the States, Scandinavia, the Netherlands, Japan and China which already buy Ridgeview idgeview.co.uk wines. ➤

TA S T E & S I P SOMMELIER

Head winemaker Cherie Spriggs and Nyetimber owner and CEO Eric Heerema

N YETIMB ER

Nyetimber Manor

THE HISTORIC NYETIMBER ESTATE was first mentioned in the Domesday Book in 1086. Back then, it was known as Nitimbreha. Nyetimber was the first in England to grow Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and notoriously fickle Pinot Noir - the revered trinity of grapes that make up the world’s finest sparkling wines. Today, such is the quality of yetimber’s wines, that in a blind tasting, yetimber’s 2 Blanc de Blancs caused a debate as to which area of France it came from. And the bold pricing of yetimber’s premium vintages would suggest that its top end sparkling

wines are aimed squarely at Cristal, Dom Pérignon and Krug. Produced by talented Canadian winemaking couple Cherie Spriggs and Brad reatri , key to yetimber’s exceptionally high quality wines is the acre estate’s south facing vineyards that lie on chalk or greensand soil, nestled across the South of England. Each Nyetimber vineyard was carefully selected to ensure the ideal conditions for the slow ripening of the grapes, to give the optimum level of acidity and the complexity and finesse for which Nyetimber is now world renowned. ➤ yetimber.com

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* christmas

SHOPPING

gift guide

W H I LST T H E F E ST I V E S E A S O N I S O B V I O U S LY S O M E W H AT

DIFFERENT THIS YEAR, IT IS

ST I L L A T I M E F O R T H E G I V I N G O F G I FT S A N D L I G H T I N G U P T H E FA C E S O F T H O S E N E A R E ST A N D D E A R E ST W I T H SOME WELL -CHOSEN PRESENTS. FROM MERINO WOOL SOCKS TO A R A R E 3 8 -Y E A R - O L D S I N G L E M A LT, T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R T E A M H A S TA K E N THE HASSLE OUT OF YOUR C H R I ST M A S S H O P P I N G W I T H T H I S H A N D P I C K E D S E L E CT I O N O F C H I C G I FT S , A L L O F W H I C H C A N BE ORDERED ONLINE FROM THE

C O M F O R T O F Y O U R S O FA W H I L E S I P P I N G A M A R T I N I , O R TWO .

12 3 8

I S SI SU SE U3E2 3 2 ➤➤ DD EE CC EE M M BB EE RR 2– 0J2A0N –U A F ER B Y R2U0A2 R1 Y 2 0 2 1

MAURICE DE MAURIAC L 3 S E E S R E D WAT C H AN EXQUISITE FUSION of classic Swiss watchmaking, futuristic design and retro styling, this unique ‘L3 Sees Red’ limited edition timepiece is hand crafted by celebrated Zürich based watchmakers Maurice de Mauriac. Since only one hundred of this striking watch will ever be made, make it a very special gift indeed. CHF 5,200 ➤ https://mauricedemauriac.ch

MA RG O S E L BY KO Z O T H R O W THIS LIMITEDEDITION ‘Kozo’ throw by British textile designer Margo Selby uses the format of the blanket as a canvas. Woven in Scotland in 100% lambswool, it features a subtle blend of monochromatic yarns cleverly constructed to reveal intricate patterning that changes within the bold geometric shapes of each piece. Who wouldn’t want to be wrapped-up in this on Christmas Day morning?! GBP 350 ➤ www.margoselby.com

R A N K I N : P L AY CONSIDERED BY MANY to be Britain’s most successful fashion photographer, Rankin’s portfolio is absurdly impressive. Since first picking up a camera, he has photographed countless iconic musicians, from the rock gods who helped shape our musical landscape to the indie icons of the Britpop era, and the genre-bending superstars who define the record industry today. 200-page PLAY is the first book focusing entirely on Rankin’s iconic music portraiture. GBP 35 ➤ www.amazon.co.uk

3 8 -Y E A R - O L D S I N G L E TO N WHISKY THE SINGLETON 38-YEAR-OLD is the latest release from the renowned Glen Ord distillery. Drawn from just eight casks, this special whisky has undergone a lengthy 26-year secondary maturation – the longest in The Singleton’s history. With only 1,689 bottles available globally, this rare single malt would be an incredible gift for even the most discerning whisky collector. GBP 2,100 ➤ www.malts.com

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VIS

IT OU

ONLINE

Glued to the sofa and in need of Swiss chocolate? You are just one click away from your handmade and unique chocolate dreams: www.maxchocolatier.com

SHOPPING

B R I T I S H B OX E R S WOMEN’S P YJ A M A S SLEEP FOR BRITAIN or lounge around the house in these gorgeous ‘Blooming Marvelous’ floral print cotton pyjamas. The traditional jacket is finished with a rounded collar and a handy breast pocket, while the trousers have a tie waist and pockets too. We particularly love the deep red piping around the collar, along the pocket and at the cuffs. GBP 79 ➤ www. ritish-boxers.com

K E N G O K U M A VA R I U S P E N CELEBRATED JAPANESE ARCHITECT Kengo Kuma uses materials to connect with people and the users of his projects. Combining two of Kuma’s favourite materials of slick steel and hinoki cypress wood, his unique, limited edition ‘Varius’ pen collection for Caran d’Ache is inspired by chidori – a traditional Japanese toy composed of interlocking pieces of wood. From CHF 800 ➤ www. arandache.com

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TO M AS Z D O N O C I K ST E L L A R S A N D FA L L E A R R I N G S C U TT E R & S Q U I D G E U LT I M AT E H A M P E R THE LUXURY ALL-NATURAL London bakery, which routinely whips up divine cakes, macarons, cookies and more, has put together this fantastic hamper for delivery anywhere in the UK. Filled with all manner of handmade sweet and savoury treats, including a rich vegan Christmas cake, the hamper also includes six of Cutter & Squidge’s delicious 100% vegetarian mince pies. GBP 155 ➤ utterandsquidge.com

HANNS-PETER K R A F FT S H E E P THESE BEAUTIFUL and characterful sheep by Hanns-Peter Krafft were originally designed in 1982 and are as popular today as they were back then. Made almost entirely by hand in Germany from beech and genuine sheep skin, complete with leather ears, each sheep is built like a piece of furniture and is strong enough to be used as a stool. Available in three sizes. From GBP 325 ➤ www. horstenvanelten.com

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BORN IN POLAND and raised in Austria, Tomasz Donocik now lives and works in London where he founded his eponymous brand in 2008. These stunning 18 carat rose gold earrings are set with white diamonds, white agate, Mozambique rubies, pink opal and hematite baguettes, and have detachable tassels for two completely different looks. GBP 11,300 ➤ www. omaszdonocik.com

SHOPPING

WAV E M U R A N O GLASS CANDLE ROBERTO BELTRAMI of Wave Murano Glass combines antique practices with modern silhouettes to create truly beautiful décor items. This candle, handmade in Italy, is covered in tiny specks of delicate black and white glass. When lit, subtle scents of leather and incense will warm up your home during the festive season. GBP 43 ➤ www. oox.com/uk

MEN’S MERINO WOOL FA R N E S O C K S

OSANNA VISCONTI BRONZE BOWL INSPIRED BY HER LOVE FOR NATURE and contemporary art, Roman born designer Osanna Visconti di Modrone’s one-off pieces make for very special gifts. This misshapen and fragmented bronze bowl was handmade by Visconti in her garden foundry, in the historic center of Milan, using the lost-wax casting technique. GBP 468 ➤ www. heinvisiblecollection.com

MADE IN LEICESTER, ENGLAND exclusively for British Boxers, these luxe weekend socks sport a classic country Fair Isle design in a chestnut colour palette. Fashioned from warm Merino wool in a chunky knit, they are perfect for walking, wearing with wellies or just to keep toes toasty around the house during the festive season. GBP 15.50 ➤ www. ritish-boxers.com

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PIGLET ROOM & P I L L O W M I ST THE LOVELY PEOPLE AT PIGLET are always looking for new ways to help us get a good night’s sleep and this wonderful spray does just that. Made with lavender, frankincense and chamomile, when sprayed generously onto bed linens and in the air around the bedroom, the day’s stresses simply melt away. GBP 17 ➤ www.pigletinbed.com

KNOCK OUT UNDI ES & NI GH TWEAR 20

ISSUE 32

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DECEMBER – JANUARY 2021

WWW.B RITISH-B OX E RS.COM

G O O D H O O D L E XO N T Y K H O SPEAKER & RADIO EASILY CHARGED via its Micro-USB port, this funky and compact bluetooth speaker and FM radio features a splash-proof silicone rubber case and built-in wireless connectivity, allowing music to be streamed directly from a smartphone or tablet. Finished in a vibrant, mustard yellow. GBP 65 ➤ https://goodhoodstore.com

NORMANN COPENHAGEN F U N FA I R VA S E THIS STRIKING PORCELAIN ‘Funfair’ vase, by Scandinavian design company Normann Copenhagen, brings a touch of fun and colour into the home. Its playful design references the well-known striped patterns often found on funfair rides and visuals from the circus world. Available in different sizes in jade green, lollipop red and black. From EUR 40 ➤ www.normann-copenhagen.com/en

KN O C KO UT UN D IES & NIGHTWEAR W W W. B RI T I S H - B OXE R S .C OM

H A D I D C AV I A R FOR TIME IMMEMORIAL, caviar has been coveted by kings, queens and the aristocracy as the ultimate gastronomic delicacy. Now father of world famous supermodels Gigi and Bella, renowned entrepreneur Mohamed Hadid has launched an elite, eponymous caviar brand. Having teamed up with Edward Gant, whose family has spent more than three decades working in the seafood industry, the collection features four superior, sustainable and 100% traceable caviars, each made using the traditional malossol method. Treat yourself to a little decadence for Christmas! From GBP 75 ➤ adidcaviar.com

JULIEN MACDONALD BEAUTY RELAXING KIT INSPIRED BY HIS GLAMOROUS fashion creations, renowned London-based fashion designer Julien Macdonald has partnered with Boots to create an exclusive beauty collection for this Christmas. This relaxing gift set includes everything a party queen needs to wind down in style, including luxe fragranced shimmer bath foam and a reviving mask. GBP 20 ➤ www. oots.com

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SHOPPING

GEORG JENSEN I C E F LOW E R MOBILE IN MANY COUNTRIES it is traditional to hang a new decoration on the Christmas tree each year. Both beautiful and collectible, this Georg Jensen ice flower is expertly crafted from brass, plated with 18 carat gold, and comes with both red and green ribbons. EUR 59 ➤ www. eorgjensen.com/europe

L A B O R AT O R I O PA R AV I C I N I P L AT E COSTANZA PARAVICINI handcrafts original decorative and functional dinner plates from her laboratory in Milan which she opened almost four decades ago. Today, she works alongside her daughter and continues to create delightful handmade and one-off objects for the table. This beautiful and vibrant plate will look wonderful on any Christmas table. GBP 78 ➤ www. oox.com/uk

NORDIC BEAR PRINT THE CALMING BLUES and teals of this dapper Nordic-styled bear illustration, which was lovingly created by Baldy And The Fidget, will add peace and sophistication to any room. All Baldy And The Fidget prints use non-toxic inks, museum-grade paper from FSC Certified mills and the packaging is recyclable. From GBP 27 ➤ www.baldyandthefidget.com

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WEB ADDRESSES FOR EVERY PLACE AND PERSONALITY F E AT U R E D I N T H I S I S S U E O F T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

AER CAR RENTALS ➤ www.aercar.com AMANEMU ➤ www.aman.com AMMOS BEACH BAR ➤ www.ammos.eu ANDBEYOND BENGUERRA ISLAND ➤ www.andbeyond.com AXIS ART GALLERY ➤ www.axisartgallery.co.za

BAREFOOT BEACH PRESERVE ➤ www.colliercountyfl.gov BEACH BUM BIKE RENTALS ➤ www.beachbumbikerentals.com BERLINALE ➤ www.berlinale.de BILLABONG PIPE MASTERS ➤ www.worldsurfleague.com BRITISH BOXERS ➤ www.british-boxers.com

CASA COOK ➤ www.casacook.com CIAO STELIO HOTEL ➤ https://theciaostelio.com CITY SEAFOOD, EVERGLADES CITY ➤ www.cityseafood1.com COLORADO MOUNTAIN EXPRESS ➤ www.coloradomountainexpress.com CORKSCREW SWAMP SANCTUARY ➤ www.corkscrew.audubon.org CYPRUS TOURIST GUIDES ➤ www.cytouristguides.com

FREGATE ISLAND ➤ www.fregate.com

GALLE FACE HOTEL ➤ www.gallefacehotel.com GARFINKEL’S ➤ www.garfsvail.com GORSUCH ➤ www.gorsuch.com

HARROW & HOPE ➤ https://harrowandhope.com HARRY CONNICK JR. ➤ www.harryconnickjr.com HARBIN ICE FESTIVAL ➤ www.harbinice.com HATTINGLEY VALLEY ➤https://hattingleyvalley.com HELENA BAY ➤ www.helenabay.com

IGLOOS AT SOMERSET HOUSE ➤ www.somerset.org.uk INDIAN ACCENT, NEW DELHI ➤ www.indianaccent.com

JW MARRIOTT MARCO ISLAND ➤ www.marriott.com JUNKANOO ➤ www.bahamas.com/junkanoo

KEY WEST FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL ➤ www.keywestfoodandwinefestival.com CYPRUS TASTE TOURS ➤www.cyprustastetours.com KIMPTON SEAFIRE RESORT & SPA ➤ www.seafireresortandspa.com KINSTERNA HOTEL & SPA ➤www.kinsternahotel.gr KRAMPUSNACHT ➤ www.austria.info/en DAME SHIRLEY BASSEY ➤ www.dameshirleybassey.world DELNOR WIGGINS STATE PARK ➤ www.floridastateparks.org LANTERN FESTIVAL ➤ https://hclf2021.hccg.gov.tw DOLPHIN EXPLORER, MARCO ISLAND LARNACA TOURISM ➤ www.larnakaregion.com ➤ www.dolphin-study.com LOS AMIGOS (VAIL) ➤ www.losamigos.com

ECO EVERGLADES TOURS ➤ www.ecoeverglades.com EMIRA POTTERY ➤ https://emirapottery.com.cy EVERGLADES NATIONAL PARK ➤ www.nps.gov/ever

FAIRMONT HOTEL VIER JAHRESZEITEN ➤ www.fairmont-hvj.de FIS ALPINE WORLD SKI CHAMPIONSHIPS ➤ www.cortina2021.com/en FLORIDA’S PARADISE COAST ➤www.paradisecoast.com FOUR SEASONS RESORT LANAI ➤ www.fourseasons.com

INDEX

L I T T L E B L AC K B O O K

OAK TREE WINE CELLAR ➤ www.cypruswinesonline.com

PAPARAZZI ➤ www.paparazziartstudio.com PROTOTYPE ➤ www.prototypefestival.org

QUÉBEC WINTER CARNIVAL ➤https://carnaval.qc.ca

RED LION ➤ www.redlion.com RHYTHM & VINES ➤ www.rhythmandvines.co.nz RIDGEVIEW ➤ www.ridgeview.co.uk

SALE E PEPE ➤ www.sale-e-pepe.com SAPPORO SNOW FESTIVAL ➤ www.snowfes.com SEA SALT, NAPLES ➤ www.seasaltnaples.com SOFITEL LEGEND THE GRAND AMSTERDAM ➤ www.sofitel-legend-thegrand.com SONEVA JANI ➤ www.soneva.com SONNENALP HOTEL ➤ https://sonnenalp.com SWEET BASIL ➤ www.sweetbasilvail.com

THE 10TH ➤ www.the10thvail.com THE FONTENAY, HAMBURG ➤www.thefontenay.com THE LODGE AT VAIL ➤ www.lodgeatvail.rockresorts.com THE RITZ-CARLTON, KOH SAMUI ➤ www.ritzcarlton.com THE RITZ-CARLTON, NAPLES ➤ www.ritzcarlton.com THE ST. REGIS LANGKAWI ➤ www.stregis.com/langkawi TOKORIKI ISLAND RESORT ➤ www.tokoriki.com

MAURICE DE MAURIAC ➤ www.mauricedemauriac.ch/en/ MAX CHOCOLATIER ➤ https://maxchocolatier.com VAIL TOURISM ➤ www.vail.com MELODY GARDOT ➤ www.melodygardot.co.uk VENICE CARNIVAL ➤ www.carnevale.venezia.it/en MEVLÂNA FESTIVAL ➤ www.goturkeytourism.com MIDDLE EIGHT HOTEL ➤ www.middleeight.com MINTURN SALOON ➤ www.minturnsaloon.com

NAPLES ART DISTRICT ➤www.naplesartdistrict.com NAPLES BOTANICAL GARDEN ➤ www.naplesgarden.org NIPPON, LARNACA ➤ www.nipponjapanese.com NYETIMBER ➤ https://nyetimber.com

WAKAKUSA YAMAYAKI ➤ www.jnto.go.jp WOOTEN’S EVERGLADES AIRBOAT TOURS ➤ www.wootenseverglades.com

ZEMI BEACH HOUSE RESORT ➤ www.zemibeach.com

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T R AV E L T I P S F R O M T H E TO P

nicholas kirkwood

FO C U S I N G O N H I G H - Q U A L I TY C R A FT S M A N S H I P A N D T E C H N I C A L I N N O VAT I O N , NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD’S BEAUTIFUL SHOES ARE M O D E R N A N D I R R E V E R E N T. H E R E T H E C E L E B R AT E D S H O E D E S I G N E R T E L LS U S H O W H E T R AV E LS T H E G L O B E

LUGGAGE I check-in a white Rimowa

because they have the best wheels by far and I can push a full case with just my little finger. White luggage is easy to spot from afar when I’m at a baggage reclaim and doesn’t stick out as much when travelling in Asia, since white bags seem to be much more popular there. CARRY-ON If I can travel with hand luggage only then I can check in online, turn up at the airport at the last minute, whizz through fast track and customs and head directly to the gate arriving 21 minutes before the plane takes-off. I’ve got it down to something of an art form and virtually never miss a flight, although inevitably it does occasionally happen, and I never hear the end of the “I told you so’s” from my team! COMFORT A pair of thin sweatpants

and a large t-shirt are far more comfortable than jeans when trying to sleep, so I change as soon as I’m onboard.

HYDR ATION It’s super

important to drinks plenty of water before take-off and in-flight. Face moisturiser is a must and I use Evolve

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BER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021

Daily Renew Facial Cream. Thick and made with natural ingredients, I also use it on my hands, especially when on a long-haul flight. GADGETS Because it’s annoying to get tangled up in wires and I also tend to go to sleep with them on, I use Beats wireless headphones onboard.And since I do all of my drawing on it, my iPad is always with me too. Much of my travelling is backwards and forwards to Italy, so I often finalise details and specifications on the way to the factory. IN-FLIGHT I avoid opening airline amenity kits since so much plastic goes to waste. Instead, I bring my own eye mask plus any other bits I typically need onboard. Flying is already bad enough for the environment, so why create unnecessary plastic waste by your journey? BODY CLOCK When I get on a plane

for a long-haul flight, I imagine that I am in the time zone of my destination and I try to eat and sleep accordingly, So, if its 2am at my destination, I won’t watch a movie or have a meal. I find that this really helps when I get to the other end. At my destination, I make sure that no matter how tired I am when I land, and even if I didn’t sleep on the plane, I stay awake until bedtime. Too many times I’ve thought ‘I’ll just have a little nap’ and then I’m completely out of sync for a few days.

JET-L AG If you’re brave enough, a good cure for jet lag is a cryotherapy session. It wakes me right up, reduces swelling and feels like a complete reset.

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Photo Credit: Chris Reist

➤ ISSUE

DECEMBER 2020 – FEBRUARY 2021 T H E C U L T U R E D T R A V E L L E R

UK £10

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ISSUE 32 ➤ DECEMBER 2020

Larnaca A CULTURAL GEM IN THE EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN

–FEBRUARY 2021

IDYLLIC ISLAND ESCAPES ➤

DAME SHIRLEY BASSEY

F L O R I D A’ S PA R A D I S E C O A ST ➤ H A R R Y C O N N I C K J R . C H R I ST M A S G I FT G U I D E ➤ N I C H O L A S K I R K W O O D