The Cultured Traveller, June-August 2021 Issue 34

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The mythical views and the history of Europe’s oldest capital, Athens, promise to compose an unsurpassed cultural journey through its indigenous sights and unique flavors.

5

Ridgeview Wine Estate, Ditchling, UK

5 2 T H E B A LT I C ’ S B E AT I N G C U LT U R A L H E A R T Behind the closed doors of impressive architectural icons that characterise RIGA, Emily Millett finds forward thinking locals transforming this quiet, northern European metropolis into an emerging hub of art, culture, innovation and urban regeneration.

74 E U R O P E ’ S F I N E ST S PA S From mountain retreats to lakeside havens, Europe is brimming with

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13 6 E N G L I S H C H A M PA G N E I S N O L A U G H I N G M ATT E R !

standout spas and unique sanctuaries to rebalance one’s mind, body

As the Covid-19 lockdown eases in England, Liz Bingham heads to

and soul, and recover from the pandemic with a little pampering. The

RIDGEVIEW estate in the beautiful South Downs, where a range of award-

Cultured Traveller visits a selection of the continent’s best.

winning British sparkling wines are produced.

111 FA S H I O N ’ S O R I G I N A L DISCO DESIGNER

5 0 W I N A F O U R - N I G H T STAY I N W E ST M I N ST E R

Globally known by his middle name, American designer HALSTON first found

A short walk from Buckingham Palace, THE GUARDSMAN is a sophisticated

fame as head milliner for Bergdorf Goodman, until Jackie Kennedy wore one

new boutique hotel that offers the atmosphere and personal service usually

of his hats to her husband’s presidential inauguration. Then, his sensuous,

associated with a private members’ club. Win a four-night stay at this exclusive

sexy and streamlined dresses made him a global fashion name.

new London hospitality address, courtesy of The Cultured Traveller.

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highlights

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

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CONTENTS 10 CONTRIBUTORS 1 2 E D I T O R’ S L E T T E R 14 NEWSFLASH

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The world is a truly fascinating place.

Every day, of every month, of every year, a cultural event or unique happening is taking place somewhere on our planet.

In NewsFlash, browse The Cultured Traveller’s round-up of global cultural experiences happening during the life of this issue, including the modern-day reenactment of ancient Inca festival INTI RAYMI in Peru; KIRKPINAR OIL WRESTLING in Turkey; the somewhat bizarre WORLD WIFE-CARRYING CHAMPIONSHIPS in Finland; the UK’s biggest surf and music festival, BOARDMASTERS; the MOUNT HAGEN CULTURAL SHOW in Papua New Guinea and the spectacular BRISTOL INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FIESTA.

Kengo Kuma-designed ACE HOTEL KYOTO, housed within a historic former telephone company building in the heart of the Japanese city famed for its temples and tea ceremonies; British interior designer Luke Edward Hall’s first hotel project – the exuberant LES DEUX GARES in Paris, and ONE&ONLY DESARU COAST, which was one of the last projects designed by the late, great Australian architect Kerry Hill.

64 SUITE ENVY

Straying off north India’s welltrodden tourist trail, 90-minutes from Rajasthan’s capital, 40-room AMANBAGH resort is nestled within a mystical, almost-untouched wilderness en route to the foothills of the ancient Aravalli mountains. Here, Emily Millett checks into an idyllic hospitality oasis of serenity, where Asian authenticity meets palpable yet understated luxury.

92 FIVE MINUTES WITH

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3 0 R E S T YO U R H E A D

In issue 34, The Cultured Traveller team checks into a dozen new hotels which have opened during t he past year, including HABITAS NAMIBIA wildlife reserve, offering an interesting blend of safari, wellness and culture;

With his feet still resolutely on terra firma, versatile London-born model ADAM COWIE has walked Harvey Nichols’ catwalk, modelled for Levi’s, Barbour and Hugo Boss, and is ‘Dante’ in the popular actionadventure game Devil May Cry 5.

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1 3 0 TA S T E & S I P: R E V I E W

A city of folklore, legends, dozens of museums, hundreds of pubs, countless monuments and a happening gastronomic scene, DUBLIN is one of the world’s most popular capitals for a multitude of reasons. Gordon Hickey gives us the inside craic about his colourful and vibrant hometown.

Combining longstanding gastronomic traditions of Parisian fine dining with the global reputation for luxury and excellence that Peninsula properties are renowned for, LILI is an exotic yet chic culinary destination in the French capital. Alex Benasuli checks it out for The Cultured Traveller.

102 MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE

1 4 2 TA S T E & S I P:

Dubbed The Ambassador of the Great American Songbook and considered to be one of the foremost interpreters of American standards, the celebrated singer, pianist and music revivalist MICHAEL FEINSTEIN talks to The Cultured Traveller about his childhood, his friendship with Ira Gershwin and his forthcoming new album recorded in Nashville.

FOOD SCENE

121 SUMMER FA S H I O N S TA P L E S

Many of us are finally looking forward to once again holidaying overseas, with positivity and sustainability being pivotal to our new travel ethos. Fashion wise, there is now a greater focus on decluttering, up-cycling and making the most of fewer quality pieces. In our Stylish Globetrotter section, Jackie Needleman hand picks some versatile his and hers wardrobe staples for this summer.

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Over the past few years, one of the world’s largest financial centers has markedly upped its culinary credentials and is fast emerging as one of Europe’s hottest foodie destinations. Nicholas Chrisostomou and Dawn Gibson sees past the dour bankers in business suits to explore ZÜRICH’S creative and quirky food scene.

151 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Hyperlinks to everywhere featured in issue 34 of The Cultured Traveller.

1 5 2 PA M A N N ’ S T R AV E L T I P S

With her sharp tongue and outspoken views, the air hostess alter-ego of Australian comedienne Caroline Reid, gives us PAM ANN’s top tips for flying through the skies in her inimitable style.

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E OR ED DIIT TO R’ ’S S L LE ET TT TE ER R

to right: FromFrom left toleft right: One & OnlyEstefan; Desaru Coast; Gloria Zürich; The Johri at Lal Haveli; Lake Como; Lošinj Island Adam Cowie; Riga

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WITH EUROPE ABOUT SPRING IS A TIME OF to re-open its borders to renewed energy, fresh goals neighbouring nations on and, most fun of all, booking the continent, and the UK summer holidays. With the increasingly green-lighting silly season all but a distant additional countries for leisure memory, at the first sign of travel, our world is slowly daffodils’ slim green blades but surely coming back to appearing in March, I’m all life. Consequently, more about planning my mid-year and more of us are making trips and looking ahead to plans to get away and it’s not the warmer months. Yet, before time! For I suspect that something I’ve only learnt being pretty-much grounded in the past few years: one since March 2020 has been doesn’t necessarily have to unbearable for most readers travel far to be immersed in a of The Cultured Traveller who, rather special experience. like me, essentially live to travel.

Until visiting the Croatian island of Lošinj – For someone who has a phobia of needles in the central northern Adriatic, just a stone’s and is disinclined to be vaccinated against throw from Italy – I didn’t realise that such anything, the prospect of getting a Covid-19 near-pristine natural beauty could be enjoyed jab wasn’t something I jumped at. But it within just a few hours’ flight from London. quickly dawned on me that being protected And until relatively recently, Zürich was against the virus would make it much commonly associated with business and semieasier and safer to travel. And when I was secretive banking rather than being an exciting vaccinated, it felt like the most positive thing I city break destination. Both are featured in this had done in ages, not to mention a step in the issue, as Dawn Gibson discovers that around direction of really living again. I think you get every cobbled corner, there is much to intrigue the message! a seasoned globetrotter in Switzerland’s largest city (p50), while I jump off a boat into clear IN THIS, OUR 34TH ISSUE, WE CHECK turquoise waters off the coast of uninhabited into a dozen brand new hotels which have islands in the Lošinj archipelago (p122). swung open their glamorous doors during the As he’s speeding across the waters of pandemic (p30), and take a deep breath at Lake Como, Alex Benasuli rediscovers that some of Europe›s finest spas, any one of which old school Italian glamour never goes out of is ideal for a restorative stay (p74). fashion (page130); Ashlee Starratt gets her We chat with the celebrated singer, pianist fingers dirty feasting on fresh Sri Lankan and music revivalist Michael Feinstein (p102) mud crab at one of Asia’s 50 best restaurants and handsome London-born model Adam (p142) and, from humble markets to the lofty

JUNE - AUGUST 2021

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

Cowie (p92), while Pam Ann heights of Michelin stardom, gives us her tips for flying Joe Mortimer discovers the through the skies in her secrets of Barcelona’s enticing inimitable style (p152). food scene (p152).

Liz Bingham visits an A titan of the industry and award-winning British one of the greatest designers vineyard producing fine of all time, we look back at the English sparkling wines career of Karl Lagerfeld – a (p136), Emily Millett finds true fashion legend (p171), that the Latvian capital of and we sit down with the Riga is emerging as a original Latin pop icon, Gloria European hub of art, Estefan, to chat about being culture and innovation (p52), a hotelier and her incredible and Jackie Needleman has career (p158). put together a capsule With Switzerland, Spain, collection of fashion staples to the Maldives, Panama, see you through this summer (p121).

Thailand, South Africa, Sri Lanka and many more countries visited in this issue, The ALTHOUGH THE SUMMER OF 2021 Cultured Traveller showcases the world’s will be far from normal, hopefully many of us travel hotspots so you can spend more time will get away and see a new part of the world planning your next exciting excursion. I hope or, at the very least, soak up some rays on a that you find a destination in this issue to blissful beach. It feels a little like the start of persuade you to book your next trip and have a new beginning, so let’s live for the moment something colourful in your 2020 diary to look and get out and enjoy our new-found freedoms. forward to.

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief

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OG RH TA IM LJIO Z EB M IN ME ORB E ➤ SCENE ➤ ISTANBUL’S TASTE & SIPFOOD EXPERIENCE

SinceAretiring fromtravel corporate lifeand in 2017, Lizwho devotes UK-based writer editor her time to in longhand’.

In other words, specialises in‘Living luxurylife travel and high-end hospitality, slowing everything down and being present in the and former editor of Destinations of the World moment. An inveterate traveller, Liz is looking forward News in Dubai, Joewhen currently contributes to titles to turning left again the planes start flying and including National Geographic Traveler, Robb resuming her frequent sojourns.

Report and TTG Luxury, as well as a collection of prestigious inflight and hotel magazines.

CH HR R II S NNI ICCHHOOLL AA SS C SO O SSTTO OM MOOUU P U B L I S H E R C O C O L AT T É P U B L I S H E R C O C O L AT T É DESIGN STUART MANNING DESIGN D E A N C H I L L M A I D DIITTO OR RIIA AL L JJ E EM M II M MA EED A TT H HO OM MPPSSOONN C TU UR RE ES S S STT EE LL LL A A A PPIICT A LL EE VV II ZZAAKKI I

HIIS S IISSS SU UE E ’’ S S C CO ON NT TR R II B TTH BU UT TO OR RSS

Alex Millett, Benasuli, Mortimer, Emily LizJoe Bingham OBE,Dawn DawnGibson Gibson Jackie Needleman, Alex Benasuli, Gordon Hickey WITH THANKS TO

Sofia Wilkinson-Steel, Roman Migliorato Sutton,Traveller Nikita Harrison TheLee Cultured magazine

CONTRIBUTORS CONTRIBUTORS

is published by Coco Latté The Cultured Traveller magazine Advertising and sponsorship enquiries: is published by Coco Latté ads@theculturedtraveller.com Editorial enquiries words@the culturedtraveller.com Subscription Advertising enquiries subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com and sponsorship enquiries: ads@theculturedtraveller.com Editorial enquiries words@theculturedtraveller.com Subscription T H E enquiries C U L Tsubscribe@theculturedtraveller.com U R E D T R AV E L L E R

N M GIL BL SO ED MAIW LY EN TT ➤➤CITY FOCUS ON RIGA RISHIKESH, INDIA

Born into a family of avid world travellers, Emily and has Passionate about travel, fashion, food, culture had a nomadic spirit for as long as she can remember. the arts, Dawn was raised in Australia and is now Former editor of TTG MENA Luxury and now a travel UK-based.

She has visited more than thirty countries writer, Emily contributes to a number of in-flight and lived in three.

A former magazine editor andin magazines and high-end publications from her bases London and Nicosia. senior newspaper journalist, Dawn currently contributes to several international publications.

T H E C U L T U R E D T R AV E L L E R ➤orIinSwhole S U ofEany3part 1 of this magazine Reproduction in part is prohibited.

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Reproduction in part or in whole of any part of this magazine The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced its respective contributors and writers and are not necessarily without written permission from the publisher. shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff.

The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions, its respective contributors and writers and are not necessarily but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles, shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff. photographs or other materials submitted.

The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles, photographs or other materials submitted.

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AK LE X N BE E ND AL SU JAC IE EL MIA N ➤ ➤STYLISH GLOBETROTTER GAL OYA, SRI LANK A An established, London-based consultant, London-based Alex has beenfashion globetrotting his Jackie has been at the cutting-edge of high street retail whole life. He has explored Europe, Asia and for years. Her career has taken her to almost every Africa, and as well as North and South continent countless countries, whereAmerica she enjoys intimately.

As passionate on a highbrow urban shopping for designer brands and vintage pieces as much break as she as relishes uncovering rare finds in cultural he is on an off-the-beaten-track flea markets. adventure, Alex uses travel to explore his love

of history, design, nature and wellness.

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G L O B A L F E S T I VA L S A N D C U LT U R A L EVENTS IN THE COMING MONTHS

DUANWU FROM THEIR FEARSOME snouts to their scaly tails, the sight of China’s rivers filled with colourful craft decked out to look like dragons, can only mean one thing: the annual dragon boat festival. This flamboyant yearly event is certainly a lot of fun, but the festival’s roots lie in tragedy, since it commemorates Qu Yuan, a revered humanitarian politician and poet, who drowned himself in the Miluo River in 278 BC, to protest against the Qin state’s invasion of his land. The dismayed common people took to their boats and tried to keep the fish and evil spirits away from Qu, by splashing their oars and beating drums. Qin eventually conquered all its rival states and created China, but the patriotic poet is nonetheless honoured. One of the best places to catch Duanwu Jié and cheer the contestants as they row frantically towards the finish line, is the Miluo River in the southern province of Húnán, where Qu Yuan met his end.

14 June 2021

LAJKONIK

14

THE SOUTHERN

oriental attire and a huge beard – “gallops”

POLISH CITY of

into the market square to meet Kraków’s

Kraków, near the

mayor. His name is Lajkonik and this exotic

country’s border with

figure commemorates the triumph of

the Czech Republic, is not short of the

Polish commoners against the troops of

odd legend or two. Maiden-devouring

invader Genghis Khan. According to Polish

dragons, enchanted pigeons and sorcerers

legend, when the head of Kraków’s defenses

who fly about on giant cockerels are all

defeated the marauders back in the 13th

rumoured to frequent the city’s well-

century, Lajkonik slipped into the Mongolian’s

preserved medieval core. And every summer,

robes and triumphantly rode into the city. The

one of the most peculiar of them all springs

historic event has been reenacted annually

to life in the city’s old town, when a bizarre

ever since, for more than seven centuries.

looking rider – sporting a wizard’s hat,

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NEWSFLASH

INTI RAYMI PERU IS FAMED FOR its spectacular festivals featuring traditional, brightly-coloured clothing, vibrant dancing and delicious foods, and Inti Raymi is no exception. In Quechua, //Inti// means “sun” and //Raymi//, “celebration”. The ancient Inca so feared the diminished effects of the sun during the winter months, that they would fast, create lavish banquets to honour the sun, and sacrifice hundreds of llamas to ensure a bountiful crop. The modern-day re-enactment of Inti Raymi still retains all of the festival’s majestic glory and Inca symbolism, minus the mass animal slaughter!

Marking the beginning of a new year, sprawling food spreads, festive music, historical recreations and much dancing praise the Inca, celebrate traditions and will for a fruitful harvest season. Rituals are accompanied by dancing and the sound of shells and musical instruments. The festivities culminate in an epic, day-long event, with just one animal sacrificed at the climax of the day’s celebrations. 24 June 2021

STONEHENGE SUMMER SOLSTICE FESTIVAL FOR THOUSANDS OF

scientists. Held within the vicinity of

YEARS, the prehistoric

Stonehenge, this four-day mini festival is the

site of Stonehenge has

one and only camping and live music event

been a place of worship

within the vicinity of the renowned world

and celebration at the time of the summer

heritage site, and hence it provides a rare

solstice. Literally meaning a stopping or

chance for members of the general public to

standing still of the sun, the summer solstice

walk amongst the ancient stone circle. Visitors

is when the sun is directly above the northern

can either pitch their tents at the Stonehenge

hemisphere, indicating midsummer. For time

campsite, or stay in shabby-chic glamping

immemorial, it has been celebrated

pods equipped with memory foam mattresses

by everyone from ancient druids performing

and set in a separate area of the site.

rituals at stone circles, to new age, neo-Pagan,

18-21 June 2021

hippie revelers and even modern-day

www.stonehengefestivals.co.uk

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BOULIA CAMEL RACES CAMELS DASH TOWARDS THE finish line in the remote Australian town of Boulia, in a bid to win the longest annual camel race in the Land Down Under and take home the Boulia Camel Cup. 16-18 July 2021

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NEWSFLASH

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GION MATSURI RUNNING THE ENTIRE MONTH of July every year, Kyoto’s Gion is probably Japan’s best-known festival and one of the longest. Named after the city’s Gion district and centered around Yasaka Shrine, its roots date back to 869, when the people of Kyoto gathered to pray for respite from a plague that befell the city. Today, it is by far the country’s best event for geisha enthusiasts and photographers seeking candid photos of geisha and maiko. Whilst traditional rituals and events relating to Gion are held throughout the month, the grand processions of floats (// Yamaboko Junko//) on 17 and 24 July are particularly spectacular. Two types of parade float follow a three-kilometre route along Shijo, Kawaramachi and Oike streets: //Yama// and //

KIRKPINAR OIL WRESTLING

Hoko// floats, collectively called //Yamaboko//. A typical //Hoko// is generally 25 metres tall, can weigh up to 12 tons and at least thirty people are needed to move it. July 2021

KNYSNA OYSTER FESTIVAL

THIS LONG-RUNNING TRADITION was reportedly

ONE OF THE RAINBOW

conceived by Ottoman

NATION’S most popular

raiders, whose military

annual lifestyle and

commander, Süleyman Pasa, would let his bored

Knysna Oyster Festival is a ten-day family-

actual battle. According to legend, on one

orientated event aimed at foodies and sports

particularly memorable occasion, as the

lovers, held in the heart of South Africa’s Garden

Ottoman army was returning to the Ottomans’

Route. Oyster eating, oyster shucking, oyster

Asian stronghold in Bursa after conquering parts

farm tours, oyster recipe challenges and gourmet

of Thrace, forty men scuffled at once, with the

oyster-themed dinners happen throughout the

two fiercest fighters going at each other until

festival, alongside wine and champagne tastings

past midnight, when both died of

aplenty. Whilst some of this year’s festival will be

exhaustion. When the remaining army had

happening virtually thanks to the pandemic,

conquered Edirne, the victors referred to the

visitors will still descend on the beautiful Western

forty soldiers in the name of Kirkpinar, near

Cape town to stay in the stunning surroundings

Edirne in Turkey, where the wrestling competition

and slurp and swallow their way through

has taken place every summer since 1346. The

thousands of oysters, at the many dedicated

idea is to prevent your opponent from getting a

venues which serve the delectable molluscs au

good grip, so more than one hundred barrels of

naturel or cooked in a variety of creative ways.

oil are used during the tournament. This really is

The festival will also be hosting a number of

no-holds-barred wrestling, with contestants

competitive sporting events, with the appropriate

literally grabbing anything to win! With a solid

Covid-19 protocols in place at all approved

gold belt awarded to the victor, there’s everything

activities. 9-18 July 2021

to play for. 28 June - 4 July 2021

18

sporting gatherings, the

soldiers unwind by wresting, in between bouts of

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www.oysterfestival.co.za

NEWSFLASH

BOULIA CAMEL RACES HELD EVERY JULY IN the spectacularly remote town of Boulia – which is essentially a tiny, dusty settlement on the edge of the desert in Outback Queensland – Boulia’s Camel Cup is the longest camel race in the Land Down Under. It is run over 1.5 kilometres and is a prized win amongst fierce competitors on Australia’s professional camel racing circuit. The sport’s appeal lies in the beasts’ unpredictability and stubbornness! Camels snarl, gurn, bite and are known to spit for metres. At the start of a race, they might move forwards, stay right where they are or even reverse. But, when they get going at full speed, jockeys have a serious job to stay aboard. This desert extravaganza offers all sorts of other attractions in addition to the main race, including a hilarious camel tagging competition, yabby races, fireworks and children’s amusements, plus live entertainment in the evenings. 16-18 July 2021 www.bouliacamelraces.com.au

WORLD BODYPAINTING FESTIVAL FROM MAKE-UP TO

years. Although the name divulges basically

TATTOOS, the human

what goes on, there is far more to this visual

body has been used as

treasure trove than you might think, with

a canvas by people all

artists and models from a multitude of

over the world for thousands of years, with

countries doing their best to shock and

almost every culture in history painting or

entertain visitors. Happening over the course

adorning themselves in some form of

of a week in the Austrian city of Klagenfurt, on

celebration or ritual. One of the most colourful

the eastern shore of Lake Wörthersee, the

and unusual festivals you are ever likely to see,

World Bodypainting Festival has grown into

the World Bodypainting Festival has been

the foremost and most well-known event of its

celebrating visual culture and music, and

type on the planet. 18-24 July 2021

wowing audiences, for more than twenty

www.bodypainting-festival.com

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NEWSFLASH

WORLD BODYPAINTING FESTIVAL THE FINAL TOUCHES ARE APPLIED to a contestant competing in the most well-known event of its type on the planet, held annually in the Austrian city of Klagenfurt.

18-24 July 2021

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WORLD WIFE-CARRYING CHAMPIONSHIPS THIS BIZARRE ANNUAL COMPETITION, which has been running for thirty years, has its roots in the tribal practice of pillaging neighbouring villages for womenfolk! Apparently, a robber by the name of Rosvo-Ronkainen was particularly keen on the practice of thieving other people’s wives in the late 1800’s. Today, what started as a light-hearted attraction in the small Finnish town of Sonkajärvi has become a world-recognised event, which sees forty pairs from seven countries fight to complete a 253.5 metre-course in the fastest time. The track is made up of sand, grass and various obstacles, including two log hurdles plus a one-metre-deep water obstacle. If the wife weighs less than 49 kilos, she must wear a rucksack to reach this minimum weight. Various techniques are employed to carry the wife, the most popular being the “Estonian” style, where the crash helmet-wearing wife is dangling upside down on the man’s back!

30-31 July 2021

BORYEONG MUD FESTIVAL THE MAIN

essentially turned into a giant mud

ATTRACTIONS OF

wonderland, so that visitors can enjoy mud

South Korea’s most

wrestling, mud sliding and even swim in a

popular annual festival

mammoth mud bath. This the festival’s

are pools, slides and wrestling arenas filled

twenty-fourth outing will be, for many South

with mud! Originally conceived in 1998 as a

Koreans, their ultimate summer

marketing tool for Boryeong mud cosmetics,

fun destination. Particularly energetic visitors

over time, this festival has become a vastly

attempt the marine mud-training course.

popular attraction for visitors and locals alike.

Meanwhile, those looking for something more

Mud rich in minerals (especially germanium

relaxing chill in the mud massage zone. In

and bentonite, which are particularly beneficial

the evening, music and fireworks fuel a party

to the skin), is taken from the Boryeong mud

atmosphere.

flats, 200 kilometres south of Seoul and driven

23 July - 1 August 2021

to the Daecheon beach area. Here, it is

22

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JUNE - AUGUST 2021

www.mudfestival.or.kr

https://eukonkanto.fi

NEWSFLASH

THE EDINBURGH FESTIVAL FRINGE FROM MAKE-UP TO

name. More than seven decades later, the

SPRAWLING and diverse

world’s largest arts festival is still true to its

with a hefty dose of crazy,

founding spirit and is basically open to anyone

“The Fringe” (as it is

and everyone who can afford to get themselves

affectionately known) began in 1947 when eight,

to the diverse Scottish capital in August.

alternative theatre companies arrived uninvited

Essentially a bit of literally everything, this year

and proceeded to perform on the edges of the

expect to see both online and in-person

inaugural Edinburgh International Festival, which

performances by student theatre companies

was effectively the main event. The following year,

next to TV celebrities, comedians alongside jazz

more groups arrived to perform (again, uninvited)

musicians, and complete novices vying for

and were documented by playwright

attention slap bang next to seasoned pros.

Robert Kemp, as performing “round the fringe of

6-30 August 2021

the official festival”. This is how The Fringe got its

www.edfringe.com

BOARDMASTERS THE UK’S BIGGEST SURF

for the next evening’s festivities, as well as all the

and music festival,

partying, Boardmasters celebrates the region’s

Boardmasters, returns this

beloved watersport with numerous professional

August after two years off,

surfing competitions over five days. Meanwhile,

promising to make up for lost time and host the

amateurs and even non-surfers come out to enjoy

best Boardmasters yet. A grassroots outdoor

the diverse beachside fun. Boardmasters 2021 will

summertime gathering, Boardmasters takes place

be headlined on the Saturday night by Damon

along the Cornish coastline in the UK’s premiere

Albarn and Jamie Hewlett’s Grammy award-winning

surfing mecca of Fistral Beach and Watergate Bay.

virtual band, Gorillaz. And all non-essential single

Offering music-led parties that continue until late

use plastic will be eradicated from the festival.

night, plus beautiful beaches upon which

11-15 August 2021

to relax and recover during the day in preparation

www.boardmasters.co.uk

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BRISTOL INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FIESTA DOZENS OF HOT AIR balloons take to the sky over the Clifton Suspension Bridge in beautiful South West England, during Europe’s largest annual meeting for ballooning enthusiasts.

12-15 August 2021

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NEWSFLASH

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BRISTOL INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FIESTA BRISTOL’S ANNUAL HOT AIR balloon extravaganza takes place in the delightful surroundings of Ashton Court Estate, which was once the gracious home of the Smyth family and is now a historic 850-acre park, just ten minutes from the city centre in beautiful South West England. North Somerset’s annual hot air balloon extravaganza is Europe’s largest yearly meet for ballooning enthusiasts, attracting more than one hundred hot air balloons from across the globe. Witnessing a mass ascent of balloons in all shapes and sizes, lifting into the sky at once and instantly filling it with glorious colours, is truly a spectacular sight to behold. Not to be missed is the festival’s famous “Night Glow” event, on Saturday night 14 August, which sees multitudinous balloons glowing to music after the sun has set, followed by a dazzling fireworks display. A variety of entertainment, arena events and a giant fairground complete the weekend’s carnival-like feel. 12-15 August 2021 www.bristolballoonfiesta.co.uk

ESALA PERAHERA

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ONE OF THE OLDEST,

Sacred Tooth Relic, which is itself a renowned

grandest and most

pilgrimage site. Famous for its large

important festivals in

processions of dancers, flag bearers,

the Buddhist calendar,

drummers, fire eaters, acrobats and

Esala Perahera is held in the revered UNESCO

colourfully-adorned silk-costumed elephants,

World Heritage city of Kandy, Sri Lanka’s

with each night, this ten-day festival gets more

second largest metropolis, located in the

animated and the crowds get bigger. Esala

middle of the Indian Ocean island nation. The

Perahera ends with a “water cutting”

festival is based on an ancient legend that a

ceremony at the Mahaweli Ganga

tooth, stolen from the Lord Buddha’s funeral

River, ritualising the divide between pure and

pyre during the 4th century AD and smuggled

impure and honouring the water gods for a

from India to Sri Lanka, is now kept in Kandy’s

good year ahead.

Sri Dalada Maligawa, The Temple Of The

14-24 August 2021

NEWSFLASH

IL PALIO

WORLD BOG SNORKELLING CHAMPIONSHIPS

DEEPLY ROOTED IN RELIGION, for two days every year, Italy’s most

THE SMALL WELSH

famous annual sporting event, Il Palio, takes over the Tuscan city of

TOWN of Llanwrtyd Wells

Sienna with its epic horse race. As much

– set amongst the

about pageantry, civic identity and Sienese pride

Cambrian Mountains – has

as it is about bareback horse racing, whilst the

hosted the World Bog Snorkelling Championships

three-lap race lasts for barely a minute-and-a-

for more than thirty years. This rather unusual

half the celebrating lasts for days. But the sight is

and somewhat dirty competition requires

truly epic and worth seeing at least once in your

individuals to swim two lengths of a 55-metre

lifetime. The 16 th August race - Palio dell’Assunto

water-filled trench – cut through the middle of the

- has been held almost uninterruptedly in Siena’s

weed-infested Waen Rhydd peat bog – in the

civic hub, Piazza del Campo, since 1644. Ten

shortest possible time. Not your average

of the city’s seventeen districts are represented

sporting event but nevertheless one that seems

in the race. The seven districts that didn’t race in

to be fast growing in popularity, bizarrely what

the previous July or August compete by right and

started as a fundraiser in 1985 has grown into

are joined by horses from three repeat districts

something of a global curiosity, with some years

drawn by ballot. More than half the riders get bucked, which greatly entertains the Sienese crowd squeezed into the piazza on race day.

16 August 2021

MOUNT HAGEN CULTURAL SHOW

seeing more than 150 hardy competitors pay fifteen Pounds to throw themselves into the filthy waters. The rules stipulate that competitors must wear a snorkel and flippers and complete their swim without using any conventional swimming strokes. The fastest in the separate

FIRST STAGED IN 1961

ladies and mens categories on Sunday 29 August

before PNG’s

2021 will be declared the winners.

independence as an event

29 August 2021

to unify tribes, every year since 1964 during the third weekend of August, the city of Mount Hagen has hosted one of the largest gatherings (known locally as “sing-sings”) in the country. Taking place in the large fertile Wahgi Valley in the Western Highlands Province of central mainland Papua New Guinea, and named after an old eroded volcano, the Mount Hagen Cultural Show is staged at Kagamuga Show Ground. With more than one hundred tribes in attendance, the concept of this peaceful event is pretty simple: each tribe – clad in elaborate body paint, extravagant colourful headdresses, and jewellery fashioned from bones, tusks and shells – shares their cultural traditions through costume, dance and music, and performs a primal dance based on its own unique legend. Quite simply, the winning performance is the one which receives the most applause from the crowd. 21-22 August 2021

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MOUNT HAGEN CULTURAL SHOW TRIBAL DANCERS – CLAD IN elaborate body paint, extravagant headdresses and jewellery fashioned from bones, tusks and shells – participate in one of the largest annual tribal gatherings in central mainland Papua New Guinea.

21-2 2 August 2021

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NEWSFLASH

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W I NDHOE K

➤ W I N D H O E K ➤ J U A N L E S P I N S ➤ K YOTO ➤ D E SA R U ➤ J A I P U R ➤ PA R I S ➤ K R U G E R N AT I O N A L PA R K ➤ C O P E N H A G E N ➤ S E O U L

rest your ➤ L A N Z A R O T E ➤ H VA R ➤ H A M N E S K Ä R

NAMIBIA

HABITAS NAMIBIA FROM THE HIP HOTEL GROUP that opened its first permanent

has white rhinos, giraffes, zebras, wildebeest and hippos, all of which you are

property four years ago in the trendy Mexican beach town

very likely to see. Spotting predators, such as leopards and cheetahs, may not

of Tulum, comes the brand’s funky take on a safari camp, set in the thrilling, otherworldly landscapes of Namibia.

Set on 50,000 hectares of private land previously used for hunting but now

Made from natural materials and designed to have minimal impact on the surrounding landscape, 15 large, standalone and simply furnished tented

being rehabilitated for wildlife, Habitas Namibia is just over an hour’s drive

suites are positioned atop the ridge of a hillside, connecting guests with

from the Namibian capital and 45 minutes from Windhoek airport, making it

nature and affording them incredible sweeping views of the vast plains. Inside,

well-located if you need a PCR test for Covid-19 during your stay or before

each features a king-sized bed, rain shower, generous wraparound deck and a

returning home.

fire pit, and is decorated with local crafts and custom-made furnishings. There

Offering an interesting blend of safari, wellness and culture overlooking seemingly endless acacia-studded plains and dramatic rolling hills, the reserve

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be so easy. There are plans to introduce elephants in the next year or so.

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is also a large private villa on the property, which sleeps 10 and can be hired exclusively.

head

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R TEAM VISITS A DOZEN NEW H O T E L S W H I C H H AV E O P E N E D D U R I N G T H E PA S T Y E A R

Habitas Namibia is different to a classic safari experience in that it offers an experience-led approach which aims to connect guests to their surroundings and each other. This may not be everyone’s cup of tea, of course, particularly if you value your privacy. But for those with a sense of adventure, in addition to game drives and nature walks, guests at Habitas Namibia enjoy live local music and dance gatherings, outdoor screenings of educational films and documentaries, lectures on conservation efforts, cooking and medicinal plant workshops, daily yoga and meditation sessions, plus a host of other activities. Daily rates from USD 600 per person per night include two daily safari drives, all meals, beer and wine and all daily programming.

https://ourhabitas.com/namibia

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J U AN L ES PINS

HOTEL LE SUD A SMALL AND CHIC yet utterly charming French town in the AlpesMaritimes, positioned to the west of famous Cap d’Antibes, the seaside resort of Juan-les-Pins boasts beautiful beaches of golden sand and secluded little coves, and smart outdoor eateries and fashionable boutiques line its pretty seafront. Positioned just a few hundred metres from the sea and a veritable homage to the South of France, interior designer Stéphanie Lizée has fashioned privately-owned boutique Hotel Le Sud to reflect the region’s warm, bright and laid-back ambience.

Native to France›s Côte d’Azur, the town›s sandy beaches and seafront promenades were key reference points for Lizée, resulting in bright white walls, rattan, wicker and striped furnishings punctuating the hotel’s 29

FR AN CE

unpretentious guest rooms, inviting bar and hip terrace, much of which was custom made by local craftsmen. Colourful Vallauris ceramics and amphoras, vintage frames and wicker lights complete the look.

A cocoon-like oasis of warmth and calm in the heart of Juan Les Pins, the hotel evokes the atmosphere of a friend’s sunny villa, simply decorated with taste and style.

Rooms are offered at affordable prices and include a homemade breakfast served in the hotel’s gorgeous, verdant garden, complete with a small pool in which to cool off. After a day of sightseeing, we can think of nowhere better to chill-out in peace and quiet with a cocktail, or two.

With the beach just a stone›s throw away, Hotel Le Sud is the perfect base from which to explore the region’s broad gastronomic scene and happening nightlife, dependent upon the type of holiday you’re looking for. www.hotellesud.com

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K YOTO JA PA N

ACE HOTEL KYOTO HOUSED WITHIN THE HISTORIC, former Kyoto Central Telephone Company building, designed by architect Tetsuro Yoshida in the 1920s, Ace Hotel Kyoto opened less than a year ago in the Karasuma Oike district of the Japanese city famed for its temples and tea ceremonies.

Designed by much lauded architect Kengo Kuma and Los Angeles-based design studio Commune, it is the US brand’s first hotel in Japan.

Part renovation and part new-build, Kuma oversaw the building›s conversion into a 213-room hotel, including the construction of generous communal spaces, garden courtyards and three restaurants. Commune collaborated with Kuma to design the bespoke interiors, the concept for which was rooted in an exchange between East and West through arts and crafts. Indeed, more than 50 artisans were involved in Ace Hotel Kyoto, resulting in a colourful celebration of Japanese and American craft, referencing throughout the work of western architects and creatives who spent time in Japan.

The lobby conveys a refreshingly playful atmosphere and sets the tone for the entire property. Beneath an industrial ceiling of interlocked Japanese kigumi joinery – complete with large, wooden eaves inspired by Kyoto’s temples – sits a doughnut-shaped front desk fashioned from handhammered copper, bright textile art by Shobu Gakuen, forest-green Shigaraki tiles and mid-century-inspired furniture. A long wooden table, referencing Ace’s community concept, cuts through the centre of the lobby. A large coffee pot sign by Yunoki marks the entrance to Japan’s first Stumptown Coffee Roasters café, courtesy of the Portland-based coffee company.

Upstairs, the modern guest rooms showcase a similar east-west fusion of Ace’s American hipster DNA and Japan’s artisan culture and feature curved edged furniture, TEAC turntables and bright local artworks. The 27 guest rooms in the historic building have a loftier, lighter architectural feel, with the original high ceilings and wide windows creating a loft-style ambiance.

Common spaces include three restaurants serving tacos, Italian and comfort food and a rooftop bar. A private karaoke room is set to open soon.

Thanks to its central location on Karasuma Street, surrounded by small restaurants and chic boutiques, Ace Hotel Kyoto is a hip and happening place to rest one’s head when exploring the atmospheric city. www.acehotel.com/kyoto

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ONE&ONLY DESARU COAST FOUR HOURS’ DRIVE FROM the Malaysian capital or 90

inner courtyard complete with a private plunge pool, framed by verdant

minutes in a taxi from Singapore, Desaru is a coastal resort

greenery, and offers exceptional privacy and plentiful space in which

area which sits on Malaysia’s east coast, in the state of Johor.

Romantically referred to as ‘The Golden Chersonese’ by Roman geographers, Desaru was a popular seaside hangout in the 1970s

to relax or entertain. An exclusive, four-bedroom private villa is also available.

Undeniably an architectural gem, thanks to Hill’s skillful weaving of

before its popularity faded. But thanks to an ambitious USD 1 billion

local art and nature into every inch of the property, One&Only Desaru

masterplan to reinvent the region, Desaru has now been reincarnated

Coast offers a luxe beach break and complete retreat from city life, within

as a deluxe Southeast Asian vacation resort, sufficiently swish enough

a drive of two of Southeast Asia’s most dynamic cities.

to persuade upscale One&Only hotel group to premiere its fourth Asian

www.oneandonlyresorts.com

outpost here. Located in a pristine corner of Desaru and set within 128 acres of raw jungle and unspoilt wild flora and fauna, edged by a stunning 1.5 kilometre sweep of sandy Malaysian coastline, the resort feels much like a private tropical holiday playground, complete with a buzzy vibe courtesy of Singapore’s upwardly mobile work-hard play-hard crowd.

Adding to the property’s cachet, One&Only Desaru Coast was one of the last projects designed by the late, great Australian architect Kerry Hill, most renowned for his stunning Aman properties. The pioneering hotel designer, who almost single handedly invented the modern tropical hospitality aesthetic and conceptualised some of the world’s most iconic properties, has left no corner of One&Only Desaru Coast unadorned with his glorious indoor-outdoor aesthetic.

A veritable study in clean lines employing acres of natural materials, lofty pavilions and airy verandas are inspired by a traditional Malay village. Every one of the resort’s 44 suites opens into a shady

DESURU M ALAYS IA T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

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J AI PUR INDIA

THE JOHRI AT LAL HAVELI LOCATED IN JAIPUR’S JEWELLERY district within the walled Old City, a stone’s throw from lines of veteran vendors selling sweets, fresh vegetables and gem stones, The Johri at Lal Haveli is set back just 250 feet from the main road, its ornate, arched entranceway flanked by bowls of fresh marigold petals.

Occupying a huge late-19th century limestone building with a terracotta facade, for decades, it was used as a private home for part of the Kasliwal family, members of which have made jewellery for maharajahs, kings and queens since the 16th century. Today, the family business, Gem Palace, is run by ninth generation jeweller and entrepreneur, Siddharth Kasliwal.

When Kasliwal’s relatives reached out to him a few years ago, to ask whether he’d be interested in turning Lal Haveli into a boutique hotel, he embarked upon a journey to create a uniquely personal and elegant property, the like of which didn’t hitherto exist within the walls of the Old City, that reflected local customs and its special setting.

Designed by New York-based designer Naina Shah, the resulting five-suite hotel – The Johri at Lal Haveli – pays homage to Rajasthan’s rich culture and heritage in every part of the reimagined former home.

The spacious and contemporary yet obviously opulent suites are blatantly luxurious, incorporating a number of traditional decor elements – including antique furniture and local textiles – to give guests a distinct sense of place.

Downstairs, the hotel›s 70-seater vegetarian restaurant is tucked into a lane off the main colonnaded street that helped get the “Pink City» onto UNESCO›s World Heritage list. Making use of organic, farmfresh and seasonal produce, delicious takes on local and regional specialties are prepared by chefs Vikram Arora and Sonu Kumar.

Guests can also visit the Pukhraj Lounge, which serves signature high-chai (tea) in the afternoon. And, in the evenings, the lounge transforms into an intimate cocktail bar, serving creative handcrafted cocktails and tasty light bites.

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www.thejohrijaipur.com

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PARI S FRA N C E

LES DEUX GARES TUCKED DOWN A NARROW street in Paris’ 10th

A coffee table in the style of Jean Royère sits in front of a pair of statement

arrondissement, set between two of the city’s major train

armchairs which were custom made by Italian architect and designer, Paolo

stations, Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est (hence its name), Les Deux

Buffa. While the ensemble is somewhat arresting, the chairs just beg to be

Gares is British interior designer Luke Edward Hall’s first hotel project and

sat in!

what a wonderfully bold and exuberant property it is!

The five-storey building was vacant for a number of years before Hall was brought on board to fashion its interiors, which have been

and gilt furniture inspired by French Empire antiques, and 1970s-style

lavished with a multitude of bold colours and heavy patterns, typical of

geometric carpets woven in England. Headboards are candy-striped and

his design style.

the lamp shades on the walls are decorated with Hall’s drawings. Some

Feeling much like an art collector’s home, an arresting, electric

have unobstructed views of the train tracks, while others look towards

pea green lobby sets the tone for the rest of the hotel. Comprising an

neighbouring Haussmannian buildings. Those on the fifth floor all have

intriguing mix of furniture, including a 19th century French gilt wood table

balconies. Gorgeous 1920s-inspired guest bathrooms feature pastel-

and a pair of mid-century pink ceramic table lamps hailing from Spain, it

coloured fittings, egg yolk-coloured walls and pillar wall lights.

also features a mirror designed and decorated by Hall himself, inspired by William Kent Palladian masterpieces. It’s a riotous yet welcoming coming together of patterns and colours.

A brash lobby cum siting room is dominated by a traditional Toile de Jouy wallpaper depicting villagers, animals and cherubs amongst scrolling foliage.

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Upstairs, the bold palette continues in the 40 bedrooms which have been painted sky blue, violet or olive green, and feature ebonised

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Downstairs, a pared-back traditional bistro turns out tasty French classics and there’s a sauna and small but beautiful gym in the basement.

The warm staff, great-value rooms and convenient location make Les Deux Gares a perfect base from which to explore the French capital. www.hoteldeuxgares.com

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W Dubai - The Palm West Crescent, Palm Jumeirah, Dubai, UAE T +971 42 455 555 wpalmreservations@whotels.com @wdubaipalm

K RUG E R NAT I ONA L PA RK

KRUGER SHALATI ONE HUNDRED YEARS AFTER Kruger was first declared a

safari lodge-type accommodation in world-famous Kruger National Park,

national park, and trains began to stop overnight on the very

in that it affords guests staying in its 24 glass-walled Carriage Rooms,

same bridge as part of a nine-day rail journey, an utterly unique boutique

incredible views along the length of the majestic Sabie River, complete with

hotel opened towards the end of last year, occupying a converted

hippos, elephants, buffalo and other wildlife in their natural habitat below.

steam train permanently parked on 300-metre-long Selati Bridge

7 Bridge House rooms, alongside the hotel’s honeymoon suite, are situated

above Sabie River, which is one of the most biologically diverse rivers in

next to the bridge on dry land and will open later this year. All rooms are

South Africa.

furnished with luxe furniture and fittings which celebrate African design in

Paying homage to the first tourists that visited Kruger in the early 1920s, Kruger Shalati is a place to rest your head like no other, offering 31 luxury rooms that hark back to a bygone era of privilege, exploration and adventure.

collaboration with local artists and craftsmen, and are tailored to provide guests with every comfort.

High above the riverbanks, aligned with the floor level of the train, a pool deck offers a swimming experience unlike any other. And a decadent

Suspended high above the water, in an modern engineering feat

lounge carriage, complete with opulent bar, makes the perfect place to

that romantically balances heritage status with sound environmental

recline with a G&T after a game drive and enjoy the incredible setting.

management, Kruger Shalati is a complete departure from conventional

www.krugershalati.com

S O UTH A FRI CA T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

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COPE NHAG E N D E N M A RK

VILLA COPENHAGEN HOUSED WITHIN COPENHAGEN’S CENTURY-OLD neo-Baroque Danish Post and Telegraph office and located adjacent to Tivoli Gardens, Villa Copenhagen was one of Europe’s most anticipated hotel launches of 2020 when it opened on 1st July last year in the heart of Denmark’s capital city, with the idea of “conscious luxury” forming the foundations of everything that the property stands for.

The hotel’s location in Copenhagen’s central neighbourhood, artfully combines the rough and hip Vesterbro area with an opportunity for guests to stay in a historic, re-imagined landmark building. Meanwhile, ‘Villa’ in the hotel’s name underlines an atmosphere of something residential, homely and intimate. This is reflected in the property’s 390 rooms and suites which have been designed in a timeless style. Akin to a high-end, classical apartment in a well-to-do corner of Copenhagen, high ceilings, restored original windows, gold accents and muted colour palettes pay homage to paintings by 19th century Danish master Vilhelm Hammershøi. And serene bathrooms come with aromatic SKOG ‘Calm of the Boreal Forest’ amenities.

Despite being a sizeable hotel of almost four hundred keys set in an old building, Villa Copenhagen is a thoroughly modern hotel with strong 21st century eco credentials, decked-out in furniture made from sustainable materials and running on energy from renewable sources. An outdoor 25-metre lap pool is heated with excess heat generated by the hotel’s cooling system. There are no plastic mineral water bottles or other singleuse items, and unnecessary and unsustainable items that you often see in hotel guest rooms you won’t find at Villa Copenhagen. Elegant carafes and glasses provided in all rooms encourages guests to drink pure Danish tap water, while a noticeable absence of single-use slippers persuades guests to walk barefoot across the gorgeous oak floors in their rooms.

Overall, guests staying at Villa Copenhagen can genuinely look forward to a hospitality experience that is indisputably sustainable and eco-conscious. www.villacopenhagen.com

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SEOU L

MONDRIAN SEOUL ITAEWON RENOWNED FOR ITS COLOURFUL K-pop scene and fashion-

S OUT H KOREA

forward outlook while remaining deeply rooted in culture and tradition, Seoul is one of Asia’s most dynamic and happening cities, constantly evolving and moving forwards. It is little surprise, therefore, that the fifth property in Mondrian’s portfolio and the hospitality lifestyle brand’s first hotel in Asia Pacific, Mondrian Seoul Itaewon, is an immersive, style-led destination fuelled by bold, captivating design and an expressive, playful mindset. This, in turn, is in keeping with the hotel’s location in the South Korean capital’s multicultural Itaewon district, which is known for its cosmopolitan dining and nightlife scenes attracting a hip, late-night crowd.

Fashioned by award-winning Singaporean interior design company Asylum, the hotel’s 296 rooms and suites, in a variety of categories, tempt guests to leave reality behind and discover a modern fairytale, complete with wellstocked minibars, espresso makers, 55-inch LED screens, separate sitting areas and rainfall showers in the bathrooms.

The hotel also boasts a wealth of food and beverage venues catering to hipsters and gourmands alike. Whether it›s a Mediterranean feast at Asia’s first Cleo restaurant in the lobby, a party at Privilege rooftop bar, a sophisticated cocktail at Blind Spot, or a glass of vintage fizz in the Rumpus Room, there appears to be something cool for everyone at Mondrian Seoul Itaewon.

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www.sbe.com/hotels/mondrian

LANZ AROT E

HOTEL FARIONES A SMALL VOLCANIC ISLAND located in the Atlantic Ocean off the coast of Morocco, and the fourth largest of the Canary Islands archipelago, Lanzarote has been a popular yearround destination for decades. Aside from basking in the sun, visitors revel in exploring the island’s extraordinary volcanic landscapes. Indeed, from the air, Lanzarote looks like an inhospitable island of volcanic cones and fields of lava rocks. But upon closer inspection, charming white-washed villages,

S PA I N

verdant valleys, dramatic cliffs, gorgeous beaches and deserted coves make an appearance.

Located in the centre of Puerto del Carmen on the southeast coast of Lanzarote, just a 10-minute drive from the airport, Hotel Fariones was the first hotel built on the island in 1967 and has enjoyed its enviable beachfront location for more than half a century, surrounded by tall, swaying palm trees, complete with direct access to an idyllic sandy cove and Playa Grande beach.

Following an extensive refurbishment courtesy of the privately-owned PY Hotels & Resorts family (which also owns the acclaimed Princesa Yaiza resort), Hotel Fariones reopened on 1st September 2020 sporting a much more modern take on a Seventies hotel resort plus a wealth of new facilities, all designed to make the best of Lanzarote’s year-round sunshine.

Many of the hotel›s 213 contemporary rooms and suites offer guests panoramic views across the Atlantic Ocean. The expansive, top-of-the-line Royal Suite Fariones boasts a huge outdoor terrace and private Jacuzzi.

On terra firma, a sea view infinity pool and two outdoor Jacuzzis provide a tranquil setting to chillout with a cocktail, while a rooftop pool offers the best sunset views on the island, overlooking Fuerteventura and Isla de Lobos.

www.pyhotelsandresorts.com

BEAUTIFUL AND WELCOMING, THE Croatian island of Hvar is

Croatian hospitality counterparts, Maslina Resort is a veritable love letter

known as the queen of the Dalmatians and has been famous

to the Mediterranean, executed with style and panache and brimming with

for centuries thanks to its rich history, untouched nature, cultural heritage

breezy beachfront coolness throughout its six interconnected pavilions

and important strategic position. These days, while its harbour may

and three seafront villas.

be filled with superyachts, visitors to Hvar reassuringly hail from an

Making use of local materials including Brac Island stone and Iroko wood, every guest room enjoys stunning views of the shimmering

castle sits majestically above the harbour and a piazza below evokes

Adriatic and feels like a pied-à-terre designed for unwinding. Suites boast

the Italian riviera, lined with market stalls and elegant restaurants. It’s a

private pools. There are five pet-friendly garden suites. And three villas are

delightful scene.

positioned on the coast, affording its inhabitants endless sea views from

an idyllic sandy bay with shallow shores and gently lapping

every room.

A cool beach bar serves tasting bites all day, while the restaurant focuses

waters, surrounded by olive groves and terraced vineyards. Nestled

on classic fare fashioned from the freshest seasonal and local ingredients.

amongst two hectares of lush pine forests bordering Maslinica Bay, new

The resort’s Pharomatiq Spa uses products that have been manufactured

Maslina Resort was built with sustainability in mind, its non-intrusive

locally without any artificial ingredients. And guests can choose from a menu

architecture blending with the beautiful natural environment in which it’s

of morning activities, including Pilates and ashtanga yoga

located. The UNESCO-protected town of Stari Grad – one of the oldest in the eastern Adriatic – is 15 minutes’ walk away.

A chic island hideaway marking a clear departure from its big-name

CROAT IA

assortment of backgrounds, nationalities and age groups. A medieval

Located 2.5 kilometres southwest of the city center, Maslinica is

HVAR

MASLINA RESORT

For those not on Hvar to party, Maslina is a calm and civilised base from which to explore the island and amble Stari Grad’s narrow, cobblestoned lanes.

www.maslinaresort.com

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HAMNE SK Ä R

SWEDEN

PATER NOSTER BUILT IN 1868 BY acclaimed engineer Gustav von Heidenstam

appropriate property for such a unique location. Adopting the name of the

and perched in the middle of the tiny, desolate and craggy

island’s most iconic feature, the lighthouse, Pater Noster opened last year as

Swedish island of Hamneskär, 22 miles from Gothenburg on Sweden’s west

a sustainably operated hotel and conference venue and has fast become one

coast, this former home for generations of lighthouse keepers and their

of the most desirable places to stay in Scandinavia.

families (together with the occasional shipwreck survivor), today offers an

The hotel sleeps 18 people in nine rooms and, during the summer months,

alternative take on a luxury vacation for adventurous travellers seeking

also offers an exhilarating outdoor sleeping area for two, offering incredible

something a little bit different. Not to mention remote!

views of the crashing sea and stars above.

Part of Swedish nautical history, Hamneskär was for a long time

Meals are served in the Boathouse, the Lighthouse Keeper’s dining room

considered uninhabitable due to the hazardous waters surrounding it. Feared

or – weather permitting – al fresco in the outside café, with gourmet menus

for centuries, anxious seafarers routinely read The Lord’s Prayer – //Pater

planned around the freshest catch of the day.

Noster// in its original Latin – when their ships approached the treacherous archipelago, which caused countless shipwrecks over the years.

Now, a group of entrepreneurs have turned the island’s isolation into its biggest selling point and used design agency Stylt to deliver an

Having arrived by helicopter or rib boat from Marstrand or Gothenburg, guests can deep-sea fish, sail, kayak, scuba dive or learn how to cook. Or simply rent the entire island for the ultimate private getaway! www.paternoster.se

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WIN a four-night stay

at the guardsman hotel in london’s westminster

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P R I Z E D R AW W I N A F O U R - N I G H T S TAY F O R T W O I N A LU X U R I O U S R E S I D E N C E A T SET AMONGST SOME OF LONDON’S

T H E G U A R D S M A N , I N C LU D I N G

most historic and prestigious

D A I LY B R E A K FA S T S P LU S O N E

landmarks, with Buckingham Palace and the

D I N N E R F O R T W O AT T H E

Guardsman is a stunning new luxury boutique

H O T E L’ S C H I C R E S TA U R A N T, THE DINING ROOM.

Houses of Parliament just a short walk away, The hotel that offers the atmosphere, discretion and personal service usually associated with a private members’ club. Here, guests are offered a true home-away-from-home experience with their wants, needs and preferences personally addressed.

The Guardsman features 53 luxurious bedrooms, whilst the top three floors encompass six exclusive residences. The latter have been designed as the perfect London pied-à-terres and comprise either one, two or three bedrooms, along with sumptuous living spaces, dining areas and fully fitted kitchens. The top floor Astor residence features a wraparound terrace and signature Japanese soaking tub, whilst two other terraces offer expansive outdoor entertaining space.

Open to residents and their guests only, The Guardsman’s social spaces comprise the cosy and contemporary Drawing Room, The Library and the Dining Room, a restaurant where there are no service times, just suggestions. www.guardsmanhotel.com

TO E N TE R

Email your contact details to ➤ win@theculturedtraveller.com The draw will take place after 1 September 2021 and the winner will be notified via email. This prize can be used any time before 1 September 2022 subject to availability when booking. Blackout dates may apply. This prize is not transferable to another person. The Cultured Traveller will not share your details with third parties. Multiple entries will be disqualified and excluded from the draw. All entrants will be added to The Cultured Traveller’s mailing list.

R E PA I N T I N G H I S T O R Y W I T H B A LT I C O P T I M I S M

R IGA

BEHIND THE CLOSED DOORS OF IMPRESSIVE A R C H I T E C T U R A L I C O N S T H A T C H A R A C T E R I S E T H E C I T Y, E M I LY M I L L E TT F I N D S F O R W A R D T H I N K I N G L O C A L S T R A N S F O R M I N G T H I S Q U I E T, N O R T H E R N E U R O P E A N M E T R O P O L I S I N T O A N E M E R G I N G H U B O F A R T, C U LT U R E , I N N O V A T I O N A N D U R B A N R E G E N E R A T I O N

C

OMFORTABLY TUCKED between the Baltic countries of Lithuania and Estonia, with neighbouring Russia and Belarus also at its borders, Latvia exudes an enigmatic mystery that characterises lesser-known northern European destinations. This is somewhat surprising, really, considering that the country boasts a wild natural beauty and the type of beguiling authenticity that is so sought after by today’s more discerning cultured travellers.

At the country’s very core – surrounded by lush wetlands and verdant pine forests – lies the capital city of Riga. With an expressive skyline punctuated by Gothic spires, medieval

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Clockwise from left: Gothic spires, medieval turrets; Vecrīga; Grand Hotel Kempinski Riga

turrets and Art Nouveau flourishes, it is the buildings which immediately impress in Riga. Painting a picture of the destination’s turbulent history, it is here, in the rich and varied architectural remnants of bygone eras, that one sees the marks left by previous occupations and rulers.

IN ITS PAST, RIGA HAS BEEN OCCUPIED BY THE Polish, the Germans and the Swedes, while also enduring the harshness of communist rule as a former Soviet state until as recently as three decades ago. It is little wonder then that today, free of the shackles of the Soviet era, the city is thriving as a consequence of sheer local determination to carve out a renewed national identity of its own. The result of these efforts

– which include a pioneering art scene, innovative urban regeneration projects and spirited food and entertainment offerings – are obvious throughout the city.

While the beautifully restored historic centre of Vecrìga (Old Riga) and its immediate surroundings house most of the typical, must-see tourist sights, just slightly outside the centre, more intrepid explorers will find numerous displays of Baltic optimism in hip gallery spaces, eclectic bars, funky cafés and slick restaurants.

Its undeniable charm and convenient location in the heart of the city makes Vecrìga the best place to rest one’s head in the Latvian capital. And for visitors looking for a hotel that seamlessly merges heritage with timeless European luxury, Grand Hotel Kempinski Riga is the place to stay.

The building that has housed Riga’s Kempinski since 2017 has long been a mainstay of high-end hospitality in the city.

First opened in the 1880s as Riga’s first ever five-star hotel, the property became an icon of Latvian luxury under its former moniker, Hotel Riga. Grand Hotel Kempinski Riga continues this legacy with style, offering the timeless elegance, comfort and sophistication that travellers have come to expect from the brand. ➤ www.kempinski.com Right next door to the Kempinski is the grandiose Latvian National Opera House, built in the early 1860s in a Greek classical style, complete with an ionic portico. The brilliant white building has become something of an architectural icon and city landmark, and one of the best places to take in

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the full magnitude of its majesty is from Stage 22 bar and restaurant at the Kempinski, which overlooks the opera house from the hotel’s rooftop. On your first evening in Riga, order a handcrafted cocktail, take a pew at Stage 22 and watch the sun set and the opera house light up as night falls and the city glitters all around. www.opera.lv/en KICK START YOUR FIRST DAY EXPLORING RIGA WITH a smooth cup of coffee at one of the many hip artisan cafés dotted around the city centre. Local Latvians are serious about their caffeine, so quality coffee is easy to find. But for a morning cup served up with a side of history and atmosphere, Sienna Art Café is as eclectic as they come. This little cabinet of curiosities is a cross between your grandma’s living room and an imperial high-tea shop. But perhaps the café’s most alluring feature is its cosy corner location, right at the beginning of Riga’s ostentatious Art Nouveau district. ➤ www.sienna.lv While Riga may still be waiting in the wings for its moment in the tourism spotlight, one thing the city is already globally recognised for, is its fabulous collection of hundreds of Art Nouveau buildings. Renowned as the European capital of Art

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Nouveau, Riga has the highest concentration of Art Nouveau architecture on the continent, with around a third of the buildings in the centre of the city created in this flamboyantly ornamental style.

Most of the Art Nouveau buildings in Riga appeared during the industrial boom of the early-1900s, driven by a determination to break away from the more rigid architectural styles that had dominated in previous eras.

Looking up at the impressively detailed facades of the stately buildings that line Alberta Street and Elizabetes Street, it is easy to see how this style marked a new freedom of expression for prolific architects of the time.

CITY FOCUS RIGA

ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS OF THESE ARCHITECTS IS Mikhail Eisenstein, whose eye-catching designs characterise the Jugendstil movement associated with the Latvian capital.

Don’t miss Eisenstein’s lavish blue and white façade of 10 Elizabetes Street – arguably his most famous building, and instantly recognisable for its striking colour, giant faces and curling vine motifs. Indeed, a stroll down any of the streets in Riga’s Art Nouveau district reveals a carnival of curvaceous goddesses, grimacing gargoyles and twirling tendrils carved into ornamental facades. Art Nouveau aficionados can delve deeper into the architectural genre at the Riga Art Nouveau Centre, which is housed in a stunning building at 12 Alberta Street, erected in 1903 by celebrated Latvian architect Konstantìns Pékšéns. ➤ www.jugendstils.riga.lv Another important stop in Riga is its historic, UNESCO World Heritage centre, Vecrìga. But before diving into Vecrìga’s tangle of cobbled lanes, pit-stop for a healthy plantbased lunch at Green Pumpkin on Pétersalas Street. The tempting vegan and raw menu illustrates this hip little diner’s innovative take on clean, green cuisine, with 100% plantbased burgers, sandwiches, pastas and mains served in a minimal interior. @greenpumpkin.riga SUFFICIENTLY SATIATED, IT’S TIME TO GET LOST IN the higgledy-piggledy streets and alleys that make up Riga’s historic centre, Vecrìga. Put away your map, turn off your phone and let your instincts guide you around this quaint district. The narrow, winding streets are a tad free-for-all, but it’s a small area which can easily be covered on foot in one afternoon, even when allowing time to pause for a coffee or craft beer at one of the welcoming little establishments tucked

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Clockwise from main: Riga Castle; Vecrīga (Old Town); Latvian Academy of Sciences; National Library of Latvia

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away in its gorgeous, restored buildings.

The historic centre of Riga is also home to a collection of fascinating buildings including the House of the Black Heads, with its ornate red-brick façade; 13th century Riga Cathedral on lively Dome Square; St. Peter’s Church with its lofty steeple, and turreted Riga Castle, which is now a presidential residence. Don’t miss the much-Instagrammed Three Brothers – the oldest group of restored medieval dwellings in the city.

Today they are home to the Latvian Museum of Architecture and the State Inspectorate for Heritage Protection.

END YOUR CULTURED-FILLED DAY WATCHING THE sun set over Riga from atop the imposing Latvian Academy of Sciences. From the 360-degree observation deck of this 1961 Stalinist-style building, visitors are afforded breath-taking views over Vecrìga’s rooftops and across the Daugava River, towards the left bank. ➤ www.lza.lv/en Notably, this lesser visited side of the city is home to impressive modern structures such as the Swedbank skyscraper and the National Library of Latvia. The huge, mountain-shaped library was designed by Latvian-American architect Gunnar Birkerts and built in 2008. It has been fondly nicknamed ‘Castle of Light’ after a Latvian folklore myth, which claims that lost wisdom can be reclaimed after the darkness of war or occupation. ➤ www.panoramariga.lv

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SOFITEL LEGEND THE GRAND AMSTERDAM FIVE-STAR LUXURY IN A UNIQUE HISTORICAL AMBIANCE Sofitel Legend The Grand Amsterdam offers five-star luxury in a unique historical ambiance. Furnished with French elegance and grandeur, the hotel welcomes a variety of visitors, from the trendy Amsterdam elite to famous international movie stars. In all of the rooms and suites (including butler service), the restaurants, the halls, and the beautiful Garden Terrace, the heritage and luxury of this opulent landmark will charm all who visit. Over the course of the centuries, this exquisite Amsterdam landmark has been ripened and enriched by countless special events and, during the process, has also acquired tremendous culinary fame.

Chef de Cuisine Raoul Meuwese and his team invite guests to enjoy the varied selection of dishes available in our award-winning restaurant Bridges, in our Mediterranean gardenbistro Oriole and on our beautiful Garden Terrace; an oasis of peace and tranquility, situated in the heart of the city. Our traditional Dutch brown café, The Flying Dutchman, serves a wide assortment of Dutch and Amsterdam beers and local delicacies, while our Library ‘Or’ is the ideal place to order The Grand Afternoon Tea. If you are looking for the perfect place to unwind in the heart of Amsterdam, pamper yourself in our Sofitel SPA with a beauty treatment or relax in our hammam or steambath after a few laps in the pool.

Sofitel Legend The Grand Amsterdam - Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197 - 1012 EX Amsterdam T +31(0)20 555 31 11 - www.sofitel-legend-thegrand.com

CITY FOCUS RIGA Clockwise from main: RIBOCA; Restaurant 3

BACK IN THE OLD TOWN, A HANDFUL OF EXCELLENT restaurants await seasoned gourmands. At Restaurant 3, diners enjoy an authentic taste of traditional Latvian cuisine, based around a slow-food concept and presented with artistic flair. The menu at this unpretentiously sophisticated eatery creatively illustrates the nation’s passion for foraging for wild ingredients. Only top-quality, seasonal wild-food and organic natural produce – all locally-sourced in Latvia – are used to create the à la carte menu, as well as a seven-course dégustation menu, aptly named ‘The Trail of Undiscovered Tastes’. ➤ www.restaurant3.lv Of course, Riga’s dining scene is not only about haute cuisine. Part of the city’s food and beverage scene is dedicated to Latvia’s love of music, singing and merry making. And nowhere does this better than the atmospheric ancient wine cellars of Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs. Here, live traditional music is performed nightly, the Latvian fare is hearty and plentiful, and don’t be surprised to see enthusiastic locals jump up for an impromptu sing-a-long! ➤ www.folkklubs.lv EAGER TO EXPLORE OUTSIDE THE CITY CENTRE and old town, my first port of call on day two is a bicycle rental shop, to pick-up my wheels for the day’s mission to discover why Riga has been hailed one of Europe’s most up-and-coming art hubs. By chance, the much-lauded Riga International Biennial of Contemporary Art (RIBOCA) is taking place during my visit. And while pop-up installations and exhibitions are being held around the city centre, it is further

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away in the grittier outskirts that the real arty action is to be found.

First launched in 2018 to critical acclaim, RIBOCA has a reputation for bringing a breath of fresh air to the slightly overcrowded biennial art scene. Turning the trend of ‘biennialisation’ on its head, the all-female crew of curators focus on the local and regional art scene through a geopolitical and historical lens. When I visit, thoughtprovoking multi-media and fine art exhibitions are being hosted in eight unique locations, including the former Bolshevichka textile factory, and a rusty old boat floating in the waters of the former industrial harbour of Andrejsala.

The next RIBOCA is scheduled for 2022. ➤ www.rigabiennial.com Art lovers needn’t wait for the next biennale to enjoy Riga’s art scene though. This rising metropolitan star is also home to a slew of achingly cool contemporary art galleries.

Such as Kim? Contemporary Art Center, whose name is a clever acronym for the age-old question ‘what is art?’, which is ‘kas ir máksla?’ in Latvian. Although the gallery may not have the answer, it always stages interesting exhibitions which champion contemporary local talent. ➤ www.kim.lv Another local art gem is Alma Gallery, which was founded in 2005 by Astrída Rinke and Ilva Krišane, with the goal of promoting new contemporary Latvian art. ➤ www.galerija-alma.lv

EVEN LUNCH CAN BE AN ARTISTIC AFFAIR IN RIGA, not least if you make a booking at the intimate restaurant at Galerija Istaba. First, peruse the changing art collections on display in the exhibition space. Then browse the eclectic design shop for unique, locally made objets d’arts. Finally, take a seat upstairs in the gallery’s boho-chic eatery for a bite. @galerijaistaba Creativity and innovation must be in the water in Riga, because the city has also seen a recent surge in the creative reuse of abandoned buildings and derelict areas, in part pioneered by the “Free Riga” social movement and NGO. The goal of this go-between organisation, when it was founded in 2013, was to find legal solutions for the city’s numerous empty buildings, in a way that would improve the cultural environment of the capital.

Amongst the tangible results, is the establishment of a series of creative quarters and territories, where small local businesses, start-ups and indie cultural activities and events take place in empty industrial spaces. With its quaint wooden buildings, the Kalnciema Creative Quarter, on the western side of the Daugava River, is particularly pretty. While Spíkeri Creative Quarter, on the riverside behind the central market, has become a serious cultural hub for arts and dining, hosting regular open-air concerts, events and flea markets.

TALLINN STREET QUARTER IS ANOTHER MORE recently established creative territory, which has repurposed a former medical emergency vehicle yard into a space for exhibitions, contemporary dance events and concerts. Food stalls, restaurants and bars have also dropped anchor here and, pre-pandemic, were open every day. In fact, it is usually in and around these creative territories that the hottest new cafés, bars, restaurants and pop-up shops can be found. ➤ www.tallinasielaskvartals.lv A cycle out to the former harbour area of Andrejsala is the perfect way to conclude a city break in Latvia’s enchanting capital.

Located just a few minutes by bike from the historic centre, this shapeshifting district has undergone many evolutions over the years: from industrial harbour, to renegade creative quarter and, finally, its current incarnation as a commercial hub for high-end entertainment. Sip on a chilled glass of something bubbly at one of the luxe restaurants or trendy bars that line the pier overlooking the Daugava. Aqua Luna is regarded as one of the best. ➤ www.aqualuna.lv It’s a mystery why Riga is still a relative stranger to tourists. The picturesque Latvian capital is veritably screaming out to be your next, undiscovered city break destination. For whilst centuries of history are apparent in its narrow lanes, elaborate facades and open squares, behind the scenes, a hum of creative activity lends the city an alluring air of contemporary cool. With daily flights to Riga from main European hubs resuming in the coming months, now is the time to turn your Baltic wanderlust into reality.

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S T R AY I N G O F F N O R T H I N D I A’ S WELL TRODDEN TOURIST TRAIL, E M I LY M I L L E TT C H E C K S I N T O

A N I D Y L L I C O A S I S O F S E R E N I T Y, WHERE ASIAN AUTHENTICITY M E E T S PA L PA B L E Y E T U N D E R S TAT E D LU X U RY

suite envy P O O L PAV I L L I O N S U I T E

➤

A M A N B A G H ,

R A J A S T H A N

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IVILISATION SEEMS TO DISSOLVE INTO the blurry heat haze of the horizon, with every potholed turn on the 90-minute drive from Rajasthan’s gloriously bustling capital, en route to the foothills of the ancient Aravalli mountain range where Amanbagh hotel is located. Outside the car window, the traffic and constant chaos of the pink city is gradually replaced by sleepy roadside villages linked via tangles of dusty red dirt tracks and framed by arid hills.

While the Rajasthani crown jewels of Jaipur, Udaipur and Jodhpur may shine the brightest to international visitors exploring the more classic routes prescribed for the state, the Aravalli Range still feels like a secret since most tourists to India don’t venture out so far. But for those who do, the rewards are even more plentiful.

Cleaving its jagged path through the region for some 670 kilometres, from the outskirts of Delhi all the way to Gujarat, this important wildlife corridor is filled with lush forests rich with biodiversity. Meanwhile, rural Indian life quietly hums

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on in small farming villages that punctuate the vast plains and hide in the shadows, folds and crevices of this mighty mountain range.

Here, barefoot children chase bicycles through dusty villages, watched by sun-weathered old men whiling away the heat of the day under the shade of mango trees.

And while these rural outposts seem to have not yet caught up with the 21st century, the remains of ancient temples and crumbling forts sitting precariously atop craggy peaks are a constant reminder of just how old

this land really is.

Traversing these landscapes where time seems to stand still feels like being let in on a little-known secret. Like the red dust that our tyres kicked-up as we bumped over ruts in the road for the last hour of the journey, something tangibly special had settled in the air.

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NESTLED WITHIN THIS MYSTICAL, ALMOSTuntouched wilderness, seemingly in the middle of nowhere and surrounded by Rajasthani countryside, lies 40-room Amanbagh. Set within a walled compound bursting with verdant gardens of palm, eucalyptus and mango trees, the property is almost impossibly serene, making it the perfect antidote to the intensity and energy of north India’s cities.

Derived from the words aman, meaning “peace” in Sanskrit, and bagh meaning “garden” in Hindi, Amanbagh is a jawdroppingly deluxe union of the two.

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Once used as a staging post for royal tiger hunts in a former preserve of the Maharajah of Alwar, the contemporary resort that stands in the place of the one-time Mughal hunting lodge was styled after the exquisite haveli mansions that characterise the region. Dreamt into being by Aman’s go-to architect Ed Tuttle, (who sadly passed away last year), Amanbagh’s pink sandstone cupolas, vaulted entrances and domed pavilions pay homage to their Mughal roots and are effortlessly befitting of the property’s regal heritage.

PULLING UP ALONGSIDE THE HOTEL’S immaculately manicured polo lawn and stepping into an expansive, marble-clad lobby infused with the heady scent of incense and freshly cut marigolds, I feel like I am entering an alternate universe that is both in sync with its surroundings yet absolutely exclusive.

In true Aman style, dining at the hotel is a flexible affair dictated by the whims and habits of individual guests, who can eat whenever they want and wherever they want. Whether dining in the palatial surrounds of the hotel’s restaurant or in

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the privacy of a suite, sumptuous menus marry the wellnessdriven principles of Ayurvedic cuisine with the rich flavours of North India, incorporating fresh ingredients sourced from the on-site organic garden.

Amanbagh’s focus on Ayurvedic wellness extends to the resort’s spa, where a holistic range of treatments and signature wellness immersions pay homage to India’s traditional medicinal system.

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NOWHERE IS AN EXCLUSIVE SENSE OF SECLUSION more evident than in Amanbagh’s premium accommodation offering – its Pool Pavilion suites – where I am residing for the coming days. My palatial, individual sanctuary of just over two hundred square metres is completely walled off from the hotel’s public spaces, thus providing me with utter privacy in which to completely switch off and relax.

Entering through a scalloped pink sandstone archway leads

SUITE ENVY to a lawned courtyard peppered with giant palm trees. At the end of this immaculately maintained lawn lies the suite itself, perfectly mirroring the Mughal majesty of the rest of the hotel yet proffering a warm intimacy that makes me instantly feel at home.

A light-filled domed entrance atrium opens on either side to the rest of my luxe lodgings, which include an expansive bathroom and a sprawling bedroom cum lounge. The pièce

de résistance is a luxuriant private garden complete with a sparkling swimming pool.

In the bathroom, a massive dark green marble bathtub takes centre stage right in the middle of the spacious spa-like space. Carved from a single piece of verde guatemala Udaipur Green Marble, the decadent statement piece’s smooth surfaces, swirling grains and ample space for two make bathing a tempting proposition even in the heat of a Rajasthani summer.

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And the giant tub’s octagonal shape matches the unique layout of the room, with each of the eight sides having a function of its own, including two separate walk-in closets and wet room with rain shower.

In tune with the hotel’s commitment to being plastic-free, an array of toiletries in the suite’s bathroom are provided in beautifully carved stone dishes and dispensers fashioned by local artisans. Including indulgently fragrant soaps, shampoos and shower gels, that have been specially produced for Amanbagh by high-end Indian cosmetics, skincare and perfume company, Forest Essentials.

TO THE RIGHT OF THE ATRIUM IS THE SUITE’S enormous bedroom. A calming, sandstone-hued space boasting high ceilings, its marble floors merge seamlessly with the marble base of a huge bed. Bedecked with an embroidered mattress courtesy of luxury Indian home furnishers Rateria, and laid with crisp, white linen, the extravagant ensemble is incredibly inviting.

Next to the bed, freshly cut lilies spill out of a vase on a desk cut from a single slab of marble, filling the air with their sweet aroma. Although work is the furthest thing from my mind during this particular stay, I am tempted to take a seat in the elegant wooden and cane desk chair, complete with ornate silver lion heads adorning the end on each arm.

In the opposite corner, a plush chaise is the perfect spot for an afternoon nap.

Light spills into the room from the window above the desk, casting a natural glow onto the minimal elements and clean lines. Meanwhile, expansive French windows, leading from the bedroom directly into the garden, can be opened to allow breezes to waft through the entire space.

A VERITABLE PRIVATE JUNGLE OASIS, THE SUITE’S garden soon becomes my sanctuary. The generous space stretches the full length of the pavilion and features chic canvas daybeds dotted around an alluring, cerulean blue swimming

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pool. In a shaded sunken seating area, l enjoy lazy al fresco breakfasts of freshly baked croissants and homemade jams, followed by juicy mango so fresh it still has its leaves attached.

When I visit, a blanket of muggy heat that permeates the air for most of the day in this part of India means that most afternoons are spent poolside, slipping in and out of the water and sipping handcrafted cocktails, to a backdrop of monkeys chattering close-by.

One evening, after a particularly rewarding hike to a temple clinging to the top of a nearby hilltop, I decide to stay cocooned in my bubble of luxury and have dinner in the

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garden. As dusk turns the sky an ethereal inky blue, and a myriad of candles twinkle in the reflection of the still surface of the pool, I feel like a Mughal princess, as artistically presented dishes are prepared by a personal chef.

AMANBAGH IS CHARACTERISTIC OF THE INIMITABLE interpretation of luxury that Aman has so expertly honed over the years. It is evident in the intuitive yet invisibly attentive service; in the flawless yet thoughtfully regional design aesthetic and, perhaps most obviously, in the way it makes Aman guests feel.

Fit for a queen and bathed in a seductive air of magic and majesty, staying in a Pool Pavilion Suite at Amanbagh compels its inhabitants to slow down, relax and simply soak up the understated opulence and beauty of the space and the serene resort in which it is located. Mughal royalty wouldn’t be disappointed.

A night in a Pool Pavilion Suite at Amanbagh starts at GBP 930 including daily breakfast for two and taxes. ➤ www.aman.com

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F R O M M O U N TA I N R E T R E AT S T O L A K E S I D E H AV E N S A N D A N AWA R D -W I N N I N G A R C H I T E C T U R A L C O M P L E X O N T H E E D G E O F T H E B A LT I C S E A , E U R O P E I S B R I M M I N G W I T H S T A N D O U T S PA S AND UNIQUE SANCTURIES TO REBALANCE ONE’S M I N D , B O DY A N D S O U L A N D R E C O V E R F R O M T H E PA N D E M I C W I T H A L I T T L E PA M P E R I N G .

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A S E L E C T I O N O F T H E C O N T I N E N T ’ S B E S T.

europe’s finest spas

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DESTINATION NO SHOES R EQ U I R E D

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T H E DOL DE R GR A N D SPA

T H E D OL DE R GR A N D, Z Ü R IC H , S W I T Z E R L A N D

PERCHED ABOVE ZÜRICH ON A PEACEFUL hilltop boasting magnificent views of the city and the Swiss Alps, the Dolder Grand has a long history of attracting illustrious guests, including Winston Churchill and Sophia Loren. Part art gallery and part health spa, a striking collection of works, including pieces by Salvador Dalí and Andy Warhol, line the walls of this hospitality grande dame, right up to its seductive spa.

Encompassing 4,000 square metres, the multiaward winning Dolder Grand Spa offers an extensive range of treatments and activities, presented in an inspirational environment designed to appeal to all of the senses.

The Aqua Zone houses a large swimming pool with a view of the beautiful natural surroundings; a reclining area with outdoor whirlpools; a sanarium; a steam bath and a snow paradise for cooling off. Guests can experience Japanese-style relaxation courtesy of the wonderfully warm sand in the spa’s sunaburo.

Separate areas for him and her each offer a sauna, steam bath, kotatsu foot bath, aroma pool, steam pot, cold-water basin and solarium.

Deluxe treatments use exclusive products from La Prairie, Dr Burgener and Amala. And specialists from a network of renowned Swiss doctors offer professional medical wellness services. ➤ www.thedoldergrand.com/en

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T H E F ON T E NAY SPA

T H E F ON T E NAY, H A M BU R G, GE R M A N Y A CURVACEOUS ARCHITECTURAL statement located on the banks of Hamburg‘s Außenalster lake, the beautiful Fontenay hotel opened just a few years ago, introducing a new style of five-star luxury into Hamburg’s prosperous second city.

Situated high above Hamburg’s rooftops on the hotel’s sixth floor, offering calm, uninterrupted views of sailing boats and ferries on the serene lake, the Fontenay Spa in a veritable world of relaxation in the heart of one of Europe’s most dynamic cities.

In this warm and sunny atmosphere, the finest equipment combined with knowledgeable experts

and skilled therapists come together in a menu of bespoke treatments carried out with warmth and care, using unadulterated natural products ethically sourced from around the world for their powerfully regenerative and therapeutic qualities.

Facilities include a sun terrace, a panoramic Finnish sauna, a steam room, an ice well and a 20-metre indoor/outdoor heated swimming pool, the waterline of which appears to merge with the lake.

The Cultured Traveller recommends Nordic-inspired wellbeing treatment The Alster Ritual, which utilises birch oils and essences to refresh the body’s energy and vitality. ➤ www.thefontenay.com/en

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A M A N ZOE

K R A N I DI , GR E E C E A MARBLE-HEWN, DORIC-COLUMNED hilltop homage to classicism, located on Greece’s eastern Peloponnesian peninsula, Amanzoe is an exclusive temple of relaxation and luxury imagined as a modern-day acropolis by renowned hotel designer Ed Tuttle, who was pivotal to crafting the blueprint for Aman’s properties.

As with all Amans, the spa is a superlative experience. At Amanzoe, its 2,850 square metre spa features treatments inspired by the holistic healings of Hippocrates, complete with breathtaking vistas of the surrounding Peloponnese countryside. The spa offering combines diet, gymnastics, exercise, massage and sea bathing with modern natural products and treatments. Lavender scents the air and sunlight streams into the spa’s stone courtyards, where water features reflect the light.

Aman’s signature massages, facials, body scrubs and wraps, as well as a range of specialty treatments, are offered in five indoor and two outdoor spa suites. Amanzoe’s spa is also home to a Watsu pool, where an aquatic therapy session involves floating in warm water, supported by a therapist’s arms. A yoga pavilion set on a serene hilltop, a Pilates studio, a stateof-the-art gym, six swimming pools, changing areas with hammams, saunas, a cold plunge and a steam room, plus a dedicated salon for manicures and pedicures, complete the spa’s extensive offerings. ➤ www.aman.com/resorts/amanzoe

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T H E P E N I NSU L A SPA

T H E P E N I N S U L A PA R I S , F R A NC E SITUATED IN THE HEART OF PARIS JUST steps from the Arc de Triomphe, within walking distance of many of the French capital’s most famous monuments, the opulent Peninsula Paris is a contemporary grand dame hotel where the service is attentive and the facilities are outstanding, not least, the city’s biggest hotel pool.

The French capital’s largest luxury hotel spa, The Peninsula Spa embraces the very best of both the hotel’s defining cultures, seamlessly combining the elegance of French beauty and time-honoured Asian practices and knowledge, offering residents and day guests alike a unique and original spa experience.

Devoted to beauty and fitness, featuring a savvy blend of culture and know-how, treatments are tailored to each individual by conducting a dermo-cosmetic analysis, and utilising formulas with high concentrations of active ingredients specially adapted for bespoke facials.

A 20-metre indoor pool, two Jacuzzis, eight treatment rooms (including two for couples), a relaxation room and two state-ofthe-art fitness rooms combine to create a spa and relaxation experience unlike any other in the heart of the City of Light. ➤ www.peninsula.com/en

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SE NSE

R O S E WO OD L ON D ON, U K HIGH HOLBORN MAY be one of London’s busiest thoroughfares, but once you pass through Rosewood London’s ornate wrought iron gates, the hustle and bustle melt away in favour of grand Edwardian hospitality delivered with style and panache.

Central to the hotel, Sense spa is a soothing, black slatelined haven of tranquility featuring a relaxation room, his and hers sauna and steam facilities and luxe treatment rooms equipped with heated beds.

Refined over hundreds of years, the spa’s nurturing Lost Remedies treatments are based upon a variety of British healing traditions, deftly merging classically English ingredients, like Epsom and rose, with exotic elements and a touch of Europe. A separate range of Sense Journeys encompass a series of treatments designed to create a state of bliss and solitude.

Aiming to offer something for everyone, bespoke treatments for couples and families and offered alongside some specially created for expectant mothers, providing an opportunity for everyone to relax, unwind and enjoy the powerful benefits of an exquisite spa experience at Rosewood London. ➤ www.rosewoodhotels.com/en

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T H E R A F F L E S SPA

R A F F L E S E U R OP E J S K I WA R S AW, P OL A N D ORIGINALLY OPENED IN 1857, THIS GRAND DAME OF WARSAW hotels once again swung open its glamorous doors five years ago as a Raffles property, bringing 21st century luxury, an impressive Polish art collection, a serious spa and the brand’s famous butlers to the Polish capital.

A revitalising oasis in the center of Warsaw, Raffles Spa features exclusive rejuvenation treatments inspired by Asian, Middle Eastern and European traditions utilising products by Aromatherapy Associates and Sisley. Also on the menu are a variety of personalised treatments offering a holistic approach – from a guided mindfulness meditation, to a ritual of essential oil inhalation through to a meditative “return to reality”.

Separate his and hers relaxation areas boast saunas and steam rooms. With six soothing treatment rooms, a luxurious VIP suite for couples who wish to relax together and a state-of-the-art upstream indoor pool, Warsaw’s finest spa is undoubtedly a deluxe urban haven of tranquility and wellbeing. ➤ www.raffles.com/warsaw

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OMAN’S EXHILARATING SEASIDE OASIS Nestled between the golden mountains and the glittering waters of the Sea of Oman, Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa promises an authentic taste of Oman’s rich culture along a truly memorable backdrop.

Experience the holiday of a lifetime at this extraordinary award-winning destination located on the beautiful Omani coastline.

Shangri-La Cares, our global health and safety commitment ensures your well-being and comfort throughout your stay.

For reservations, please contact: +968 2 477 6262, reservations.slmu@shangri-la.com Discover more at www.shangri-la.com/barraljissahresort

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L ÖY LY

HELSINKI, FINLAND A THOUGHTFULLY DESIGNED URBAN oasis and multi-award-winning architectural gem, occupying a stretch of beautiful Helsinki waterfront, Löyly is one of Helsinki’s most visited tourist destinations and offers a warm welcome and numerous delights for locals and visitors alike.

Name-checked by Time magazine as one of the “world´s 100 greatest places to visit”, on a beautiful summer’s day, there is no better place to hang out in Helsinki than Löyly’s gorgeous terraces.

The only Finnish word to travel to English and countless other languages, ”sauna” is essentially the focus of everything

at Löyly, and it is one of the few places in the Nordics where a visitor can experience a traditional wood burning sauna. Since visiting the Finnish capital without visiting a sauna would be nigh on criminal, dropping into Löyly really is a must when in Helsinki.

Three different types of sauna at Löyly are all heated with wood: a continuously heated sauna, a once-heated sauna (heated in the morning and warm all day) and a traditional smoke sauna. Experience all three during a visit to Löyly and, in between saunas, relax in the spa area or fireplace room.

When you’re ready to cool-off, all saunas offer direct access to an outdoor seating area and the Baltic Sea for a refreshing swim. For those who dare, during the winter months an “avanto” hole in the ice, for a polar plunge in the icy waters, is a popular hobby in Finland. ➤ www.loylyhelsinki.fi/en

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T SPA

GR A N D HO T E L T R E M E Z Z O, L A K E C OMO, I TA LY LOCATED IN 18TH CENTURY Villa Emilia adjacent to main palace-like Grand Hotel Tremezzo, T Spa is decorated in palatial style and comprises five elegant treatment rooms and a hammam suite, plus a brand new humid area that includes a Mediterranean bath, steam bath and sauna, all of which offer stunning views on Lake Como.

T Spa also boasts an ice fountain, emotional showers and a relaxation area decorated with a beautiful, restored fresco ceiling, preserved and restored seminato flooring and a classic fireplace. Completing the extensive facilities are a nail studio, an infinity pool, a well-equipped three-storey gym and private-access Suite Emilia for VIP guests and couples’ treatments.

Guests enjoy the very best anti-stress, anti-ageing and rebalancing resultsdriven treatments, all custom designed

by Officina Santa Maria Novella

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Firenze, Italy›s finest skin care line.

Rituals implemented into the advanced treatments performed by highly trained therapists concentrate on stress-relief, optimising health and age defying results.

Lake Como’s only hammam is designed using precious Italian white Lasa marbles for its large and airy

chamber and boasts a domed ceiling and full-sized scrub plinth. The spa’s traditional hammam cleansing ritual, designed especially for Grand Hotel Tremezzo, is the perfect way to revitalise the mind and the body, with a giant rainfall shower, vitality pool and steam room completing the experience. ➤ www.grandhoteltremezzo.com/en

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B E L L E V U E SPA C L I N IC

HO T E L B E L L E V U E , M A L I L O ĥ I NJ, C R OAT I A A SHINING EXAMPLE OF ECO-TOURISM AND known in recent times as the ‘Island of Vitality’, the Croatian island of Lošinj in the northern Adriatic has become a natural destination for those seeking wellness, thanks not least to its top quality air, pine forests, crystal clear sea, moderate Mediterranean micro-climate and abundant medicinal plant life.

A stylish, contemporary lifestyle spa set within Hotel Bellevue on Lošinj›s picturesque Cikat Bay, 2,500 square metre Bellevue Spa Clinic was named Croatia’s Best Hotel Spa at the 2020 World Spa Awards.

A well-designed wellness enclave that harmoniously blends advanced medical science, fitness and nutrition with innovative beauty services and traditional holistic spa therapies, the clinic appeals to those seeking an

uncomplicated path to looking good and feeling good.

Guests can embark upon integrated wellness programmes and enjoy beauty treatments performed by worldclass specialists using the best luxury products, including a range of cutting-edge, non-invasive medical therapies, not to mention anti-ageing treatments delivered by a team of resident aestheticians, doctors and dermatologists.

The largest wellness facility in the region, Bellevue Spa Clinic features seven treatment rooms and two deluxe couples’ suites. In addition, embracing the healing benefits that Lošinj is renowned for, an open-air spa garden offers guests an ethereal atmosphere of complete relaxation complete with a sauna, hot tub, plunge pool and pergola-shaded al fresco treatment areas. ➤ www.losinj-hotels.com/en

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E U R OP E A N AY U RV E DA R E S ORT S ON N HOF T H I E R S E E , AU S T R I A

A PLACID PLACE OF WELL-BEING nestled in a natural Tyrolean paradise, Ayurveda Resort Sonnhof is dedicated to Ayurveda, skillfully combining it with relaxation, gentle exercise, Ayurvedic therapies and nutrition based on regional products – all safely embraced by the surrounding nature acting in unison as a place of power.

Far from a classic spa realm, Sonnhof is a carefully curated sauna and steam bath landscape that also rebalances the body’s Ayurvedic bioenergies – called doshas – through selected fragrances and soothing plays of colour.

Sonnhof’s Shirodhara treatment is the centerpiece of a carefully and sustainably developed Ayurveda concept, which combines health and social aspects of Central Europe with the ancient Indian healing philosophy. The warm, fragrant sesame oil – which flows slowly but steadily onto the forehead – calms the body and mind in no time. And this therapy, combined with a relaxing Ayurvedic massage, not only opens the third eye, but also prepares guests for the balancing experiences at the resort’s spa.

Courtesy of a team of experts hailing from around the world, European Ayurveda at Sonnhof expertly and lovingly combines the energetic, seasonal nature of the Tyrolean mountains with treatments that truly help to relieve the stresses of everyday life. ➤ www.sonnhof-ayurveda.at/en

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E

Detox DETOX WITH E UROPEAN AYURVEDA AND THE POWER OF THE MOUNTAINS Let go, cleanse, switch off your mind, enjoy and learn for your everyday life: European Ayurveda is not only an eclectic mix of the knowledge of Western medicine and the ancient Indian healing teachings, but also a sustainable and healthy guide for your everyday life. Take a detox cure at the European Ayurveda Resort Sonnhof in the midst of the Tyrolean mountains, feel this immense place of power and take the valuable knowledge of European Ayurveda home with you.

Because you deserve it.

Because you do feel really good!

AY U R D E T O X – I N T E N S I V E P R O G R A M M E Gentle internal cleansing combines with full body oil, bag and energy massages to help release toxins. Additional treatments are tailored to your individual needs and designed to boost your immune system and intestinal functions.

7 NIGHTS

6 TREATMENT DAYS AYURVEDIC DIET

> Consultation and pulse diagnosis > Concluding consultation > Therapeutic supervision

> Virechana – day of purification

> Treatments tailored to suit your personal medical history like a Vishesh energy massage, a Shirodhara flowing oil treatment or a Udvartana herbal powder massage > Hot water and ginger drinking treatment > Herbs for the duration of your stay

> Weekly programme of Yoga and meditation > Use of the Ayurveda Spa

W W W. S O N N H O F - AY U R V E D A . AT

T H E K U L M SPA ST. MOR I T Z

K U L M HO T E L S T. MOR I T Z , SWITZERLAND THE VERY FIRST hotel to be built in the upscale Swiss mountain resort of St. Moritz, opening its doors in 1856, Kulm offers an incomparable combination of luxury, tradition, modern comfort and warm hospitality coupled with a central location and incredible views over the lake.

Created in 2012 following a multimillion Swiss franc investment, The Kulm Spa St. Moritz is one of the finest wellness addresses in Switzerland, spread over 2,000 square metres incorporating indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a whirlpool, saunas, relaxation areas, treatment rooms and a gym with aerobics studio.

The spa’s wellness concept is based upon the three pillars of relaxation, detoxification and regeneration. And throughout the spa, the stunning views helping to instill a sense of calm.

Tailored treatments catered to each

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individual’s specific needs utilise either the harmonising power of natural products, or new high-tech active ingredients, to ensure that guests find inner peace, comfort and harmony on every visit and leave with more energy, renewed vitality and a sense of joie de vivre.

Treatments available include Valmont facials, organic seaweed-based detox treatments created by Irish family-owned company Voya, and special treatments using OxyGeneo technology for unparalleled skin nourishment and oxygenation ➤ www.kulm.com/en/wellness

#kulm ho #kulm telstmori tz l #kulm ifestyle feelin g @kul mho tel @kul mhot elst.m oritz

welcome to the alps‘ summer paradise The Kulm Hotel is one of Switzerland‘s undisputed icons of hospitality. Situated in St. Moritz in the heart of the Swiss Alps, it provides guests with an incomparable variety of cultural highlights, experiences of nature, wellness moments and culinary delights as well as a truly luxurious setting.

Kulm Hotel · 7500 St. Moritz

T +41 81 836 80 00 · info@kulm.com · www.kulm.com

W I T H H I S F E E T S T I L L R E S O L U T E LY ON TERRA FIRMA, THE VERSATILE LONDON-BORN MODEL HAS WA L K E D H A RV E Y N I C H O L S ’ C AT WA L K , M O D E L L E D F O R L E V I ’ S , BARBOUR AND HUGO BOSS, AND IS ‘ DANTE’ IN THE POPULAR ACTIONA D V E N T U R E G A M E D E V I L M AY C R Y 5

MINUTES WITH

adam cowie Was being a male model a career choice?

Not to begin with. I was working in sales and marketing until my employer went bust, which was not a reflection on my advertising prowess, you understand. As a result, I was made redundant. But it just so happened that a few weeks earlier, my wife had sent some images of me to a local modelling agency, which agreed to take me on. To be honest, it was perfect timing.

Were you interested in fashion as a child?

The Mickey Mouse sweatshirt and joggers combo I’m wearing in an early photo of me suggests not!

Your favourite modelling jobs to date?

A couple standout but for completely different reasons. I flew to Serbia a few years ago so that my face and body could be scanned for a video game called Devil May Cry 5, in which I was the lead character, Dante. This was huge for me, because I used to play Devil May Cry games when I was at university

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and loved them. I’ve received loads of positive and kind feedback from fans of the game, and I really hope that they decide to make another. It was a pretty successful game, so there’s every chance they will. The other job was driving at high speed around a racetrack in a brand new, state-of-the-art Jaguar sports car. That was loads of fun!

Which clients have you most enjoyed working with?

Most of the designers I’ve worked for aren’t big fashion houses – they are businesses which are successful in their own countries, but don’t have the

Hilton La Romana

I N T E RV I E W global reach of say Armani or Prada.

Having said that, I’ve worked a few times for Levi’s and Barbour and once for Hugo Boss. I also model regularly for this great, up-and-coming British underwear company called British Boxers, which I enjoy.

The most exotic places modelling has taken you?

This is one of the reasons I love my job so much! I did a 10-day wedding shoot in Mauritius, which is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever visited.

Modelling has also taken me to Brazil, Costa Rica, South Korea and Lebanon.

Your most embarrassing modelling-related moment?!

I don’t embarrass easily but the first fashion show I ever did, they had us walk around a shopping mall wearing tight Y-fronts, rigger boots and some intricate body jewellery, all the while sporting a fake tan that would make a reality TV star blush! What’s worse is that they filmed the whole thing.

Hopefully the tape is trapped in a dusty cave somewhere, or at the bottom of a very deep hole.

Harvey Nichols

judged. Sometimes, when I walk into a casting, the casting team barely gives me the time of day. Occasionally, it almost feels like an inconvenience that I have disrupted their conversation, even though they invited me there. This is a rarity though and, generally, most clients are kind, welcoming and treat me like a friendly colleague, which is obviously the best way to get great results.

Is working in the fashion industry as cutthroat as it’s rumoured to be?

The favourite ensemble you have ever worn for a modelling assignment?

Yes, it is, and models need to have a thick skin because we’re immediately

Y-fronts, rigger boots, body jewellery and a fake tan.

The last catwalk you walked?

Adam as ‘Dante’ in Devil May Cry 5

What clothes are you most comfortable wearing?

At home, joggers and a t-shirt.

To what do you attribute the longevity of your career thus far?

Your favourite hotel in the world?

I think they’re still letting me do it because I enjoy modelling, and this generally rubs off on the clients.

Hilton La Romana in the Dominican Republic, which was the last place I worked before lockdown.

Being a handsome chap, have you ever felt objectified in your work?

Any in-flight tips for getting off a plane at your destination looking good?

Sometimes people refer to me as ‘the model’, but I just use this as an excuse to introduce myself.

I’m not even sure this is possible! But I always take a hot towel if offered one.

How does Adam Cowie relax?

Is it hard to stay in such great shape, especially when your livelihood depends on it?!

Not at all. I like to stay fit, not least so I can run around with my kids and, hopefully one day, my grandkids too.

Friday film nights with the family.

When it’s my choice, I get to push the nostalgia button. You can’t go wrong with 1990s Robin Williams.

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DUBLIN IRELAND

europe’s capital of fun GORDON HICKEY GIVES US THE INSIDE CRAIC

A B O U T T H E C O L O U R F U L A N D V I B R A N T I R I S H C A P I TA L

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T R AV E LLER DESTINA TION L OW D O W N T R AVD EU LB LL EI N R L OW D OW N

W

ELL PAST THE ECONOMIC crisis of ten years ago and positively thriving once again, the capital of the Republic of Ireland is a diverse metropolis boasting one of the most colourful and multicultural populations in the world. The warm people of Dublin, affectionately known as “Dubs”, have repeatedly been namechecked as some of the friendliest townsfolk on the planet, and there’s a unique magic to the city, commonly referred to as the craic in Ireland. An infectious, fun and happy energy that floats in the air of this bustling cosmopolitan capital, visitors can fully experience the craic by a complete immersion in the local culture and diving headfirst into the medieval streets that are the pumping veins of Dublin.

IN TERMS OF ITS LOCATION, DUBLIN IS geographically blessed. The city sits on the east coast, which is one of the driest places on this usually rainy island. The

tranquil Irish Sea lies to the east, the historic lands of Boyne Valley to the north, the rolling Dublin Mountains to the south and lush green fields to the west. This means that there are countless places to visit, a multitude of sights to see and many things to do within a short hop, skip or jump of the city limits.

Although home to more than one million people, Dublin is an easy city to navigate on foot. The city centre is compact and most of the main tourist attractions are nestled together. The majority of Dublin’s must-see spots are located on the south side of the River Liffey that divides the city in half.

THERE’S NOTHING LIKE A TRADITIONAL, HEARTY irish breakfast to fuel you through a busy day and the café atop the Kilkenny Shop on Nassau Street serves ones of the best. Meanwhile, the shop (below the café) actively promotes Irish craft and design and showcases some great Irish talent, including clothing, jewellery and art produced by local designers and artists, so be sure to have a gander after breakfast. www.kilkennyshop.com

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Just around the corner on Kildare Street, visit the National Museum of Ireland to see ceramics, glass, Viking artifacts and many other archaeological objects found in Ireland and around the world, including 3,000-year-old gold chalices. You can learn about St. Patrick and Ireland’s religious past and see Cashel Man – Ireland’s oldest bog body – who lived and died in the early Bronze Age. www.museum.ie/archaeology After the National Museum, stroll across to Trinity College, a veritable oasis of calm in the heart of the city. The university dates back to 1592 and is home to one of the most beautiful libraries in the world – The Long Room Library – that looks like something straight out of a Harry Potter novel. The library was built between 1712 and 1732 and houses some of the oldest books in the world, including the extraordinary 9th century Book of Kells, Ireland’s greatest cultural treasure, generally considered to be the finest, surviving illuminated manuscript produced in medieval Europe. Every day, the library carefully turns a page and reveals a little bit more of the book. www.tcd.ie/visitors/book-of-kells

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T R AV E L L E R L OW D O W N DUBLIN

Five minutes’ walk from Trinity College is the Irish Rock ‘n’ Roll Museum Experience, which offers a peek into the careers of U2, Sinead O’Connor, Thin Lizzy and other musical legends that hail from The Emerald Isle. www.irishrocknrollmuseum.com If you’re in the mood for some culture of a different kind, jump in a taxi and head three kilometres out of the city centre to Kilmainham Gaol. Built in 1796 to replace Dublin’s former county prison, the jail was the site of public executions and housed many of the prominent revolutionaries involved in the 1916 Rising. Closed in 1924 by the Irish Free State government, it reopened as a museum fifty years ago. www.kilmainhamgaolmuseum.ie

Clockwise from left: National Museum of Ireland; George’s Street Arcade; Kilmainham Gaol; The Dublin Writers Museum

DUBLIN’S MAIN SHOPPING AREA RUNS RIGHT through the city center, south of the Liffey. A pedestrianonly zone during business hours, Grafton Street is the Irish equivalent of a British high street. Here you will find famed swanky Irish department store, Brown Thomas, which stocks everything from Marc Jacobs to Gucci, as well as homegrown designers including Orla Kiely and Louise Kennedy. www.brownthomas.com For a more intimate retail experience, head to George’s Street Arcade. An airy Victorian-era shopping experience, the arcade houses a long series of shops along either side, together with some quirky temporary stalls in the middle, which sell everything from vintage clothing to records. www.georgesstreetarcade.ie If you love nothing more than a good book and literature interests you, you’ll need to arrange your time wisely, because Dublin has a rich literal history and many celebrated writers – including James Joyce, Bram Stoker and Oscar Wilde – have called Dublin home at some point in their lives.

The Dublin Writers Museum, occupying an original 18th century house on Parnell Square, is a great place to find out more about some of Dublin’s literary celebrities, spanning the past three centuries. www.writersmuseum.com Also worth visiting, on the other side of the river, the bleak exterior of Whitefriar Street Church contrasts with its splendid interior, which holds the relics of St. Valentine, the

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Clockwise from left: The Brazen Head; Dublin Castle; Gravity Bar; Temple Bar.

patron saint of lovers. Whilst the saint’s shrine is obviously the place to be on 14tth February, if you’re sick of love or indeed lovesick, nearby is the medieval statue of Our Lady of Dublin, which has a tumultuous history and is one of the few remaining medieval pieces in the city. www.whitefriarstreetchurch.ie A short walk away, 13th century Dublin Castle is the 800-year-old heart of the Irish capital and the former seat of British power in Ireland. Whilst it is not a «real” fortress-like castle in the traditional sense, two Anglo-Norman towers remain and the richly decorated state apartments are worth seeing. www.dublincastle.ie IN YOUNG AND VIBRANT DUBLIN, YOU ONLY NEED cast your eyes to the nearest corner to find a watering hole catering to the city’s many drinkers. While the beautiful cobbled streets of the renowned Bar district are lovely to walk, its bars are overpriced and usually way too busy to enjoy a relaxing libation, and the tacky, Irish-themed bars should be avoided at all costs!

Located at the James’ Gate Brewery, the Guinness Storehouse offers visitors a unique chance to assimilate the 250-year history of the country’s famous “black stuff”, and enjoy a perfectly poured pint at the rooftop Gravity Bar, which boasts spectacular views across the city. www.guinness-storehouse.com ONCE UPON A TIME, IRELAND WAS THE MOST catholic country in the world and the hundreds of churches dotted throughout Dublin are a testament to this. In recent years, the church has seen a massive decline in people attending mass and so it has sold off a large proportion of its property portfolio. The Church Bar and Restaurant has

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preserved the religious elements of the building’s past and is one of the most historic bars in Dublin to enjoy a cocktail. www.thechurch.ie Another cool bar which pays homage to its past is The Bank on College Green, which retains many of the original fittings from its financial days, including Chatwood safes in the basement. The seafood chowder served here is delectable. www.bankoncollegegreen.com For EUR 25, enjoy a 40-minute fully guided tour of John Jameson’s original Bow Street distillery in Smithfield, including a comparative whisky tasting. www.jamesonwhiskey.com Originally built in 1754 as a coaching inn, on the site of a merchant’s dwelling dating back to at least 1613, there has been a hostelry on the site of The Brazen Head, Ireland’s oldest pub, since 1198. And beside the pub, Father Matthew Bridge crossing the River Liffey marks the spot of Dublin’s very first river crossing www.brazenhead.com Lastly, for something of a New York vibe, visit Sophie’s on the top floor of funky Dean Hotel on Harcourt Street. A bar, restaurant and terrace, Sophie’s offers 360-degree city views and is consequently one of Dublin’s hottest hangouts, particular in warm weather. www.deandublin.ie FROM LODGINGS IN CLASSICAL GEORGIAN HOUSES to modern hotels in the city’s regenerating docklands and classic seaside properties, the Irish capital offers a range of cool places to rest one’s head.

Situated on the banks of the Liffey on the north side of Dublin, the four-star Morrison boutique hotel is close to all of the city’s main attractions. Erected at the beginning of the century, all of the hotel’s 145 bedrooms were stylistically overhauled in 2013 courtesy of leading Irish architect Nikki

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O’Donnell. The hotel’s spacious penthouse suite looks out across the city and has hosted many world-famous stars of rock and pop. Meanwhile, the ground floor bar offers a unique Gentlemen’s Afternoon Tea until 6pm daily, swapping finger for steak sandwiches, beer sliders, smoked rasher scones and whisky chocolate truffles, all washed down with a pint of Wicklow Wolf. www.morrisonhotel.ie On the opposite side of the river, The Clarence Hotel is famed for hosting the celebrity crowd when they descend upon Dublin. Naomi Campbell, George Clooney and a host of other A-listers favour this boutique, mid-range 49-roomed property, which is also home to three notable food and beverage venues, not least Cleaver East By Oliver Dunne, where hearty fare, dry-aged steaks and Irish seafood all served in an industrialinspired dining room. www.theclarence.ie HOME TO MORE THAN A DOZEN MICHELIN-STARRED restaurants, Dublin’s established food scene offers everything

from quaint pavement cafés to destination restaurants for a gastronomic feast. With countless world cuisines available on the city’s streets, there is literally something for every palate and pocket.

A stone’s throw from Grafton Street, Dawson Street is a busy thoroughfare jammed with happening cafés and funky bars catering to every palate and pocket. At Peruke & Periwig, guests dine on modern Irish cuisine and sip expertly prepared cocktails under the watchful eyes of Victorian-era portraits that adorn its elegant interiors. www.peruke.ie Situated below the Dublin Writers Museum on Parnell Square, Chapter One is perhaps the city’s most consistently well-rated upmarket eatery, serving contemporary Irish cuisine using the finest local ingredients. www.chapteronerestaurant.com Situated in the heart of Georgian Dublin and established for more than three decades, standout restaurant, L’Ecrivain, is run by much-lauded chef Derry Clarke and his wife,

Clockwise from left: Cleaver East By Oliver Dunne; Peruke & Periwig. The Church Bar and Restaurant.

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T R AV E L L E R L OW D O W N Sallyanne. www.lecrivain.com Finally, for a completely different culinary experience, head to Temple Bar food market on a Saturday, grab some wonderful Irish cheeses, homemade pesto and a loaf of freshly bread baked, and park yourself on a bank of the River Liffey for a DIY picnic.

DUBLIN

LITERALLY BURSTING AT THE SEAMS WITH cultural experiences, memorable sights and wonderful places to eat and drink, Dublin is an incredibly sociable city that feels more like a friendly village due to its low-rise and compact centre. Céad míle fáilte is a Gaelic phrase Irish people like to use to welcome people into their homes, towns and cities. Literally, it means ‘a hundred thousand welcomes’, and it is very much a way of life, rather than just a saying.

Once you have visited Dublin for the first time, you will likely have a hundred thousand reasons to return again and again. www.visitdublin.com

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michael

feinstein DUBBED THE AMBASSADOR OF

THE GREAT AMERICAN SONGBOOK AND CONSIDERED TO BE ONE OF THE FOREMOST INTERPRETERS OF A M E R I C A N S TA N DA R D S , T H E CELEBR ATED SINGER, PIANIST AND M U S I C R E V I VA L I S T T A L K S A B O U T HIS CHILDHOOD, HIS FRIENDSHIP WITH IR A GERSHWIN AND HIS FORTHCOMING NEW ALBUM

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MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE

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When I was very young, I listened to a lot of old 78 RPM records which my parents kept in the basement of our home

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Above: Michael with Liza Minelli.

Who influenced young Michael as a child?

When I was very young, I listened to a lot of old 78 RPM records which my parents kept in the basement of our home.

So, right from the get-go, rather than popular music, I listened to older and traditional music, including Fats Waller, Rosemary Clooney, Bing Crosby, Glenn Miller and the Glenn Miller orchestra. It was very much a mixed bag, dependent upon the odd selection of recordings my parents owned.

At an early age, I also discovered the score of Broadway musical Finian’s Rainbow, written by E.Y. Harburg, with music by Burton Lane. Burton later became a close friend with whom I collaborated on a number of albums.

When did you first notice the works of legendary songwriter Ira Gershwin?

I first discovered Gershwin when I was 13 or 14 and heard Rhapsody in Blue which was life changing for me. I’d never before heard a piece of music that affected my insides quite the way that that piece did and, from that point on, I strove to find everything I could get my hands on relating to George Gershwin. After exhausting his instrumental concert works, I started discovering the songs that he wrote with his brother as lyricist. Then I became a fan of Gershwin songs all the time. Before long I was playing them by ear on the piano.

The first lyricist to be awarded a Pulitzer Prize, what particularly drew you to the works of Ira Gershwin?

As a kid, I was captivated by the way his words expressed romance, love and humour in such unconventional ways. The timelessness of his work was also a draw for me, because it expresses the eternal human condition in ways that we can still relate to, and people are still attracted to his body of work today.

How did you come to meet Ira Gershwin in 1977?

When I met Ira Gershwin in 1977, it was as if fate had been preparing me for that moment my entire life thus far. The actual introduction came through a wonderful lady named June Levant, who was the widow of famous concert pianist and Gershwin interpreter, Oscar Levant. June remained friends with Ira and Leonore Gershwin after her husband Oscar passed away in 1972. I met June through a series of odd coincidences and eventually she introduced me to the Gershwins. The whole thing was a little eerie, because shortly after I moved to Los Angeles from my hometown of Ohio, I visited a psychic, to whom I paid USD 25 and she told me, without provocation, that one day I would meet Ira Gershwin.

Tell us about your relationship.

I met Ira when he was 80 years old and I was 20. Whilst there was a 60-year age gap between us, we spoke the same language. I knew everything about his career, or a great deal about it, I should say. Ira was quite surprised that somebody of my age understood his references.

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Our very warm relationship was like that of buddies and good friends. And he was a mentor for me in numerous ways.

I was like the son or grandson that he never had. Ira was very shy, quiet and self-effacing, which was the complete opposite of his older brother, George, who was a firecracker.

Socially, George Gershwin was the most dazzling and desired bachelor in New York. Ira, on the other hand, was very sedentary, solitary and did not consider himself to be attractive to the opposite sex. So, the difference between the two brothers was both noticeable and extraordinary.

Most of all, Ira was a very kind and gentle man and really shepherded me. I wouldn’t have a career without him.

You were also friendly with American singer and actress Rosemary Clooney?

She lived in the house that Ira and George occupied when they first arrived in Hollywood in the 1930s. Rosemary became my second Mum, called me her sixth kid and I adored her deeply.

She was a remarkable talent who still, to this day, remains my favourite female singer. Over the years, we performed together at more than 200 concerts.

On my first album, I asked Rosemary to be a guest and sing a duet with me. It was then that she taught me something that I have never forgotten: We rehearsed the duet once in the studio. Right before we started to record it, she said, “smile honey, people can hear it, even though they can’t see it.”

Tell us about your first performances in front of a live audience?

My earliest performing memories were at family gatherings at our home in Ohio. I was a ham at that time and I really loved to perform. But as my parents asked me to perform more and more often, I became shy and resisted doing it, even though I still enjoyed playing the piano, which I started playing by ear at the age of five.

I was in my teens when I started performing in front of strangers. My first was a wedding for which I was paid USD 25. I was amazed that somebody would give me money to perform at an event. Slowly I started getting paid gigs, performing at weddings and other events in and around Columbus, Ohio. From there, I was hired to work in a restaurant. It was all very heady stuff for someone in their mid-teens because I was making a lot of money at the time.

The first time I worked in a restaurant, as a solo act rather than in the background (playing for someone else), I was nervous as hell because I was still learning how to relate to an audience, how to get their attention and how to put together a sequence of songs. I learnt a lot during the many years I played in nightclubs and restaurants and people were very, very kind to me.

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What did it feel like to have a recording hit?

The first time I had a hit recording, I was blindsided because I was singing music. Then, as it is now, my first recordings were primarily of classic, older music. At the start of my recording career, I didn’t know or ever really believe that I would build an audience that would be substantive.

When I started playing at piano bars, I was sometimes fired because I would not or could not play contemporary songs. The odd thing is that playing classic songs is what ended up giving me my career and I’ve now sold millions of records!

Your favourite recording to date? (album or single track) That would be my first album, recorded in 1989 with an orchestra, called Isn’t It Romantic, which was produced in

collaboration with the great composer and arranger Johnny Mandel. A brilliant musical legend, Johnny died last year and I miss him greatly. Working with Johnny was one of the highlights of my career. A song that Jonny wrote, called Where Do You Start? remains one of my most requested numbers to this day.

What propels you to make a new album?

Generally, the need or idea to express something I haven’t previously said musically. When I feel an urge to record something new, it’s because I feel that the song resonates with my soul and it is something that I wish to share.

Your first performance on Broadway?

Like many things in my career, it came unexpectedly in 1988, in a one-man show called Isn’t It Romantic: Michael Feinstein in Concert. The show was an immediate hit and ran for many months. The producer wanted to keep it going, but being a solo performer on stage, performing eight shows a week, was exhausting. So we closed over the summer of 1988

and reopened again in the fall (autumn). The acceptance of the Broadway community, by way of the awards I received as a result of that show, were extraordinary and set me up for a much broader career, because once you’re a success on Broadway, you can tour for years.

Today, you’re widely considered to be the world’s ambassador for the Great American Songbook?

One day, somebody started calling me the ambassador for the Great American Songbook in print and somehow the phrase stuck. It’s not something I have ever called myself and I have never considered myself to be the definitive expert in American popular song. But I do know a lot of songs and I’m grateful that people often think of me when they think of America’s great songwriters.

Tell us about The Great American Songbook Foundation?

A non-profit organisation whose mission is to inspire and educate, I founded The Great American Songbook Foundation in 2007 and it has been incredibly rewarding. Not least, it has

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given me the opportunity to give back to young people and younger generations of musicians and singers, and teach them about the Great American Songbook. These songs are timeless but in danger of disappearing unless there is somebody to share the music and to acquaint young people with it.

Every year, we run a High School Song Book Academy in which 40 young people, from all over America, participate and learn how to interpret this music. We have celebrity judges, talented teachers and great mentors, and I see, first-hand, how this changes their lives. Even if these young people don’t become professional musicians, the experience of the academy and exposure to this music stays with them for the rest of their lives and has made me a sort of musical godfather to hundreds of them. My involvement in the foundation has grown to become one of the most fulfilling things I do.

How have you been coping with the Coronavirus and making the most of your time at home?

It’s fascinating to see how the Coronavirus pandemic has fundamentally changed our world. Yet, in the midst of such sadness, tragedy and loss, reckonings have come for many that have led to realizations that might not have come in any other way. Mind you, I’m not in any way diminishing the gravity of what has happened to our planet. Personally, this experience has given me an opportunity to turn inward on a level that might not have otherwise happened because I’m not on the road traveling with the many distractions that come from daily life. So, I’ve spent a great deal of time meditating, going deeper into the areas that I wanted to explore, and trying to clear the cobwebs out of the places where I feel uncomfortable in my soul. It’s also taught me to be present, be in the moment and stay aware of what is happening right now because obviously that’s all we have.

The other thing that has come out of the past year or so of isolation, is the feeling of being connected to everyone and everything. It may sound odd that the isolation has led to a greater feeling of connection for me, but that’s exactly what has happened, because I’ve discovered that I can connect with people in many ways, in addition to the physical.

You must have seen a lot of the world on your travels. What’s your all-time favourite hotel?

Having stayed at hundreds of hotels over the years, it is not easy to select a single one. There are several that stand out.

But my current favorite is the St. James’s Hotel & Club in London. It is a small hotel, tucked away in a quiet cul-desac in gorgeous Mayfair, that is run impeccably and offers intimacy, privacy and great service. The suite that I’m always given is on a rooftop and has a balcony affording me incredible views of majestic city. I also love the staff who are kind and talented people.

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How do you relax?

Walking in nature, experiencing the Arroyo in Pasadena, Griffith Park in the Los Feliz neighbourhood of Los Angeles, the Monon Trail in Indiana (where I’m a resident) and Central Park in New York. It’s great to commune with nature.

Sometimes I take off my shoes, so that I can feel my feet on the ground and feel connected to the earth.

I also love listening to music in my car, because the way it sounds in my car is different from any other listening experience. I have an ancient car which I refuse to trade-in because it has a CD player and a cassette player. Yes, I repeat, a cassette player. I have hundreds of old cassettes that I play in my car and give me great pleasure.

What’s the next destination on your “hot list” when we can travel again?

I’ve been to various parts of Germany but never Munich which I’m keen to visit. There’s something about Munich that’s calling me. I would also like to visit New Zealand.

What’s next for Michael Feinstein?

I am excited to have some live concert dates in the UK this October. And I’m putting together a podcast, which will feature a selection of recordings from my massive archive, all of which have never before been heard publicly. Some are legendary or environmental recordings that are just too good not to be shared.

I have also recorded a new album, recently completed, that will be released in 2022, called Gershwin Country. It was recorded in Nashville with some extraordinary duet partners all of whom are country singers, including Dolly Parton and Lyle Lovett. Country singers are the last bastion of vocalists who tell a story when they sing. The idea of revisiting Gershwin with a Nashville-based band and traditional Nashville instrumentation is the realisation of a dream for me. Indeed, Gershwin Country may turn out to be my favorite album ever, which I don’t say lightly, because I don’t like listening to my own music!

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Genesis genesis_boho_lifestyle www.genesiswithlove.com Malta - Valletta - Marquis de Vissac shop 169 St Lucia's street

FAS H IO N I CON

H A L S T O N FASHION’S ORIGINAL DISCO DESIGNER

ONE OF THE EARLIEST AMERICAN DESIGNERS TO EXTEND HIS B R A N D T O M U LT I P L E L I N E S , F O R A C O M PA R A T I V E LY B R I E F B U T G L I T T E R I N G M O M E N T, H A L S T O N C O M P L E T E LY R U L E D T H E FA S H I O N W O R L D . F O L L O W I N G T H E N E T F L I X M I N I S E R I E S W H I C H H A S R E I G N I T E D T H E B R A N D , T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R L O O K S B A C K A T T H E C A R E E R O F A T R U E FA S H I O N I C O N

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Clockwise left to right: Halston with Virna Lisi, 1964; Halston at home in New York, 1968; Halston at Bergdorf Goodman, 1965; Jackie Kennedy wearing a Halston pillbox hat; Halston in the early 1960s

purpose-designed for high-octane nights on a disco dancefloor.

KNOWN SIMPLY BY HIS MIDDLE name and almost certainly one of the greatest American designers who ever lived, the glittering rise and dramatic fall of Halston was nothing if not spectacular and is now the stuff of international fashion legend.

Liberating women from constrictive suiting and formal dresses that stood up by themselves, Halston created the perfect bridge between working-fromhome leisurewear and high fashion, and his sexy and streamlined dresses were

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BORN IN 1932 IN DES MOINES in the American Midwest and reared in Indiana, Roy Halston Frowick was the son of a NorwegianAmerican accountant and his stayat-home wife. As a boy, he developed an early interest in sewing from his grandma and loved to alter and make clothes for his mother and sister. Soon he began creating hats.

As a young man, he worked as a fashion merchandiser at upscale department store Carson Pirie Scott, meanwhile attending night classes at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago (SAIC).

Lover and hairdresser André Basil gave Halston his first break, by setting up a display of Halston’s hats in his

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prestigious hair salon at the landmark Ambassador East Hotel in Chicago’s Gold Coast neighbourhood. Halston’s first client was Fran Allison of the Kukla, Fran and Ollie TV show. Soon after, when Basil opened his Boulevard Salon on North Michigan Avenue, he offered Halston half the space for display.

When Halston’s personal relationship with Basil ended in 1958, Halston upped sticks and moved to the Big Apple. At this point, he was twentysix with a small reputation as a hat designer earned in Chicago. Yet, whilst Halston had been invited to work for the well-known milliner Lilly Daché, from the moment he arrived in Manhattan, he sought out Chicago-born designer Charles James, who was best known for his incredible ballgowns.

TO HALSTON, JAMES WAS A veritable dressmaking legend.

Balenciaga once called James “the greatest couturier in the world” because he was one of the few

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IN 1961, AMERICA’S FIRST LADY and one of the world’s greatest fashion influencers of the time, Jacqueline Kennedy, made Halston famous when she wore a pillbox hat of his design to her husband’s presidential inauguration. Virtually overnight, Halston’s friends and clients included some of the most alluring and well-known women in the world, including Rita Hayworth, Marlene Dietrich and Liza Minnelli, the latter becoming both his muse and his partner-in-crime. Over the years and by all accounts, the Halston-Minnelli partnership was not simply an artistmuse relationship, but something truly collaborative, supportive and special.

designers to elevate fashion into fine art. Halston was enthralled by fun, knowledgeable and unpredictable James, who became a profound influence on him, also becoming a confidant and mentor to the young milliner. James also introduced Halston to a number of important and influential social and business contacts.

Lilly Daché said, “Halston learned a great deal from Charles James about designing and the world of style and society.”

Using all manner of jewels, flowers and fringing to decorate hoods, bonnets and coifs, Halston’s hat designs were both fantastic and whimsical. By the turn of the decade, when Halston left Daché to become head milliner at luxury retailer Bergdorf Goodman, he was blessed with the admiration of perhaps the single most powerful fashion press person on the planet: Diana Vreeland.

Fashion editor at Harper’s Bazaar and Editor-in-Chief at Vogue, extravagant Vreeland enticed stars old and new onto her magazines’ pages and was not known for compromising or settling for second best. Of Halston, Vreeland said, “He was probably the greatest hatmaker in the world, an absolute magician with his hands.”

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IN THE SUMMER OF 1964 IN FIRE Island, Halston met Twenty-Fouryear-old Edward J. Austin Jr., who was an assistant buyer in the menswear

Clockwise left to right: Halston with his Halstonettes, 1974; Halston in 1973; Anjelica Huston modelling Halston, 1972; Halston with Liza Minnelli

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department of Alexander’s department store. For the next five or six years, Austin was Halston’s weekly sex partner, and they met at Halston’s penthouse on East 55th Street. Perhaps in an attempt to protect his image, Halston didn’t make the relationship public and kept Austin hidden from his friends.

IN 1968, HALSTON ESTABLISHED his own millinery company which speedily evolved into a full ready-towear line, leading to the opening of his own salon on Madison Avenue in December of that year, thanks to millionaire investor Estelle Marsh.

There may have been only twenty-five pieces in that first collection, but it

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defined the clean, elegant and simple yet luxurious and rich look that was to become Halston’s trademark style.

Ultrasuede shirt dresses and printed kaftans fashioned from silk and chiffon soon followed.

The morning after his new salon opened, Halston discovered Babe Paley waiting at his front door. One of the greatest trendsetters of the time, Paley wanted an argyle pantsuit made-to-order. Thus, the made-to-order side of Halston’s business began and all the fashionable ladies he knew from Bergdorf Goodman poured through his doors, including

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Catherine Deneuve, Bianca Jagger, Ali MacGraw, Lauren Bacall, Raquel Welch and Barbara Walters to name

but a few. Even the new First Lady, Patricia Nixon, began to shop at Halston.

Famous for his lunches at the salon, held when it was closed to customers, Halston charmed his guests with food, wine and show-business gossip.

After lunch, a few of his house models would casually appear wearing pieces that Halston felt were appropriate for his guests, all the while reclining on a zebra-striped banquette, stroking his Pekingese dog.

FOLLOWING A FEW YEARS during which Halston unsuccessfully attempted to resurrect the dead career of Charles James, including a disastrous June 1970 collection that mingled their work and met with terrible reviews, Halston fully realised his talent, discarded James, designed the most fabulous clothes from the early seventies onwards and his dresses routinely appeared on the front cover of Women’s Wear. In August 1972, American model Karen Bjornson was featured on the cover of Newsweek wearing Halston, with the headline, “Ease and Elegance Designed by Halston”.

YET THE DESIGNER’S SOCIAL and personal lives were quite the opposite of elegant. In fact, the image of fashion design being a glamourous and exciting profession owes much to Halston’s behaviour in the 1970s. For, during his heyday, the world-famous Studio 54 disco club became both a showroom for Halston’s designs and a stage for the man himself, who was often accompanied by

FA S H I O N ICON Clockwise left to right: Halston at a fitting with Karen Bjornson, 1982; Elsa Peretti and Halston at the Plaza Hotel, 1976; Roy Halston with Chris Royer, Pat Cleveland and Karen Bjornson wearing his spring 1982 collection; Halston with Bianca Jagger and Andy Warhol, 1973

an entourage of beautiful women who became known as “the Halstonettes”.

Meanwhile, Halston’s personal life was a little tragic, especially for a man whose career had been celebrated on the cover of Newsweek. Since his relationship with Austin had fizzled out, Halston had taken to phoning rent boys, who regularly visited his East 55th Street home.

One night in 1972, twenty-four-yearold Victor Hugo from Caracas turnedup at Halston’s home, moving in with the designer shortly thereafter and changing the pace of his life forever.

Halston’s recreational drug-taking reached new highs and the designer regularly partied through the night.

BY 1973, HAVING GROSSED RETAIL sales of an estimated USD 30 million during the previous five years and won three Coty American Fashion Critics’ Awards, Halston was the undisputed prince of fashion. American fashion writer and prolific newspaper columnist Eugenia Sheppard declared 1973 to be “the year of Halston.” So, it seemed like an inspired business move,

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when it was announced in October of that year, that the huge American conglomerate Norton Simon was acquiring Halston’s company and his design services in exchange for USD 12 million in stock.

Halston remained lead designer of his many collections, working at a frenetic pace, creating all of the uniforms for the winter and summer 1976 US Olympic athletes and making costumes for Martha Graham’s ballet production, Lucifer.

By now, products bearing Halston’s name included perfumes, luggage, home linens, coats, rainwear and even wigs.

AT THE BEGINNING OF 1978, Halston moved his business into a wholE floor of the Olympic Tower skyscraper, high above Manhattan. The official opening party was held in mid-February, with the showroom receiving spectacular reviews, as did Halston’s newest collection, which was one of his best in years. Towards the end of the show, Liza Minnelli walked the long runway in a slinky black Halston dress singing “New York, New York”, stopping midway to hand Elizabeth Taylor a red rose.

But the move to Olympic Tower marked a turning point in Halston’s behaviour. By now, cocaine had become a constant in his daily pharmacopoeia of drugs, along with cigarettes, marijuana and alcohol. He began to wear sunglasses day and night and his demeanour became increasingly moody and changeable.

HALSTON’S DEAL WITH JCPENNEY – for the creation of an exclusive line that was, as he put it, “for the American people” – was ultimately the professional beginning of the end for the designer.

Essentially secured to facilitate a huge cash injection to prop up the company, literally overnight, nervous high-end stores, including his early employer, Bergdorf Goodman, feared that the prestigious Halston name was tainted by its presence on the racks of a massmarket retailer. And maintaining a consistent direction over such a diverse

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FA S H I O N ICON array of lines proved to be impossible for Halston. Many things were lost along the way, not least, the cachet and the allure that had made Halston.

Before long, Bergdorf Goodman dropped Halston altogether.

BY 1983, WHILE HALSTON enterprises was generating an estimated USD 150 million in annual sales, the designer was burning through money as fast as he was earning it, and his excessive spending and erratic behaviour increasingly left decisions to businessmen, eventually leading to him losing creative control.

In the summer of 1983, a stunned Halston was informed that Norton Simon had been sold to consumer-goods conglomerate Esmark, and Halston Enterprises had instantly been relegated to a subsidiary of a company best known for producing bras.

In 1984, when the ownership of the parent company changed hands again, Halston became even more estranged and angry with his corporate owners, who repeatedly tried, unsuccessfully, to rein in his profligate spending.

Eventually, in the summer of 1984, Halston stormed out of Olympic Tower in a tantrum and stopped working altogether. On 12th October 1984, he was summarily removed from his position as president of his own company.

Halston’s corporate deals had effectively cost him the right to use his own name.

BY THE LATE EIGHTIES, HALSTON was dealing with more personal issues, testing positive for HIV in 1988 and opting to live the rest of his life in selfimposed exile. The man who was only as good as the glamorous people he dressed, sadly ended up dressing no one at all.

As Halston’s health deteriorated, America’s first superstar designer moved to San Francisco to be with family, far away from his friends.

At the age of fifty-seven, the Midwest all-American boy, whose name became synonymous with the slinky, sensual fashion of New York’s heady disco era, succumbed to Kaposi’s sarcoma, an AIDS-related illness, on 26th March 1990.

Clockwise left to right: Halston at Olympic Towers, 1983; Halston, Elizabeth Taylor and Liza Minnelli, 1981

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CHAMPIONS SINCE 1870 www.british-boxers.com

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FTER THE TESTING, pandemic-ridden year that we have all had to live through, many of us are finally looking forward to once again holidaying overseas, with positivity and sustainability being pivotal to our new travel ethos.

Fashion wise, there is undoubtedly now a greater focus on decluttering, up-cycling and making the most of fewer quality pieces, bought to last and teamed with cool and on-trend accessories.

L O TT Y B B A N A N A TREE SARONG LUXURY RESORT AND SWIMWEAR brand Pink House is inspired by the Caribbean island of Mustique, where every item is designed by Lotty, and most are made by local seamstresses and artisans. Taking up a tiny amount of luggage space yet unfolding to a generous size, this exotic silk crêpe-de-chine sarong is an indispensable holiday staple, which can be used as a scarf, cover-up, skirt or belt, to name but a few options.

GBP 225 ➤ www.pinkhousemustique.com

SANDRO HOMME P O LO S H I R T PARISIAN LABEL SANDRO WAS founded in the French capital’s trendy Marais district in 1984 as a womenswear label and was pretty much an overnight success.

Sandro’s menswear line was introduced in 2008, tailored to dress gents who are non-conformist but always chic. This classic yet stylish 100% linen polo shirt can be worn with everything from shorts to a suit. And in this gorgeous tobacco colour, will ensure that you look dapper from India to Lanzarote.

GBP 100 ➤ https://uk.sandro-paris.com

ORLEBAR BROWN E D E N SW I M SHORTS BASED IN LONDON, ORLEBAR Brown launched in 2007 offering a more tailored and high-quality approach to men’s beach and swim shorts, expanding into a full resort range in 2010 including T-shirts, polo shirts, knitwear and accessories. The brand received a significant boost when Daniel Craig wore a pair of Orlebar Brown swim shorts in Skyfall. These vintage-inspired floral print Eden shorts will last for years and comfortably take you from the beach to lunch and on to a pool party, safe in the knowledge that they are made from premium recycled polyester.

GBP 225 ➤ www.orlebarbrown.com

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A E Y D É K ATT I S A N DA LS FOUNDED IN 2015 BY design duo Luisa Dames and Constantin Langholz-Baikousis, Aeydē oozes a contemporary aesthetic while its attitude to craftmanship is more traditional. All of its footwear is crafted in Italy’s Marche region from the finest materials, and the superior quality of its shoes has put them on the feet of some of the world’s bestdressed women. Mules are a key style this season and these effortlessly stylish leather Katti sandals will surely last the test of time. Their versatility also makes them a vacation staple.

EUR 225 ➤ www.aeyde.com

NAGHEDI TA N G I E R T O T E DRIVEN BY A DESIRE to produce bags that can be carried through the seasons, Sara Naghedi launched her eponymous brand in 2016, after 15 years of working in the world of accessories, where she constantly fought against the wastefulness of seasonal fashion. Designed with sustainability in mind and made in New York, these neoprene Tangier totes are individually hand-woven in a wide weave, by skilled weavers who can only produce one or two bags per day. The Tangier is modern and sleek, with a matching interior purse, and will happily take you from Copenhagen’s streets to happening Seoul.

USD 355 ➤ https://naghedinyc.com

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GRENSON C H A DW I C K S A N DA LS A BRITISH HERITAGE FOOTWEAR brand established in Northamptonshire in 1866, Grenson’s shoes are designed to last a lifetime and the brand even offers a repair service on those of their range which sport Goodyear triple welted soles.

Keeping up with the times as well as being on trend, Grenson launched a vegan range in 2020 which is biodegradable and recyclable. This classic Chadwick slider, in black hand-painted calf leather, is a simple slip on sandal for men with a supremely comfortable moulded footbed.

GBP 180 ➤ www.grenson.com/ukk

ALIGHIERI NECKLACE LONDON-BASED ROSH MAHTANI set up Alighieri after studying French and Italian at Oxford University. Upon graduating in 2012, she was inspired to create modern heirlooms, born from the literature she had studied, in particular, Dante Alighieri’s //Divine Comedy//. Following two years working with e-commerce stylists and without any formal training, Mahtani launched Alighieri in 2014. Every battered, imperfect and slightly melancholic Alighieri piece tells a story, and is cast in recycled bronze and plated in gold or sterling silver. Sure to compliment pretty much any ensemble, this Silhouette of Desire necklace is a nod to the outline of the moon, in the moments that it is barely visible but even more enticing.

GBP 155 ➤ https://shop.alighieri.co.uk

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A C N E ST U D I O S F LO R A L S H I R T BASED IN STOCKHOLM, ACNE Studios produces a variety of versatile ready-to-wear men’s and women’s clothing and footwear. In addition to the brand’s fabulously stylish collections, it often collaborates with other creative industries and uniquely talented individuals to produce limited edition pieces, including Bianchi Bicycles, Lanvin, Lord Snowdon and Liberty of London, to name but a few. Made of viscose with a large, floral print, this shirt can be paired with jeans or shorts, dressed up or dressed down, has a single chest pocket to hold your sunglasses and is unlikely to go out of fashion for years.

GBP 290 ➤ www.acnestudios.com/kr/en

JACKIE O H H R AY B A N S MOST FAMOUS FOR ITS Wayfarer and Aviator ranges, the Italian-American brand’s sunglasses are as stylish and desired today as they were when Ray-Ban premiered many decades ago. By no means merely another pair of sunglasses, the back story behind Ray-Ban’s distinctive Jackie Ohh nylon frames is inspired by Jackie Kennedy, the 1960s fashion icon and wife of US President John F Kennedy. Durable and comfortable with soft upswept lines that flatter all face shapes, these sunglasses are for women who want to turn heads and add a bold look to their style this summer.

GBP 158 ➤ www.ray-ban.com/uk

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MAJE GUIPURE LACE DRESS LAUNCHED IN PARIS IN 1998, Maje achieved rapid success and there are now more than 150 stores in France and overseas. Sketching a subtle difference between modernity and quirkiness in its authentic pieces with sharp detailing, the spirit of the Maje brand is resolutely feminine, understated yet glamorous and bold.

This short and elegant straight-cut white lace dress features cut-outs in the hems of the sleeves and dress, and a removable slip, enabling it to be worn in a variety of scenarios, from a cocktail party in Nice to the beach clubs of Ibiza.

GBP 349 ➤ https://uk.maje.com

R I V E GA U C H E C A N VA S T O T E THE FAMED LUXURY FRENCH fashion house founded in 1961 by Yves St Laurent and Pierre Berge is still considered one of the world’s most prominent today, renowned for both its modern and iconic pieces. This large branded tote is fashioned from 100% cotton linen and finished with tubular leather handles. Inside, a zipped pocket will keep your valuables secure and within easy reach. A timeless and versatile accessory, this bag will take you from the designer shops of London’s Sloane Street to the beaches of the Côte d’Azur.

GBP 945 ➤ www.ysl.com

S T Y L I S H G L O B E T R O OT E R C RO C H E T T R I L BY PA N A M A H AT MORE THAN THIRTY YEARS ago, Jenny Froehlich falling in love with the art of making panamas when she visited the small Ecuadorian town of Cuenca, heralded the founding of The Panama Hat Company, her main being to pay local weavers fairly for making such beautifully handmade hats. This flexible and robust Panama hat has a crocheted crown, and a traditional Brisa weave brim, and is a fashionable and inexpensive way to keep the sun off your face.

GBP 68 ➤ https://panamahats.co.uk

HUNZA G SW I M S U I T ORIGINALLY BORN IN 1984 under the direction of Peter Meadows, the label enjoyed huge success with its signature crinkle-stretch fabrication and high-cut leggy designs, with its Hunza dress becoming an iconic piece after Julia Roberts wore it in Pretty Woman.

Today, Hunga G is a British swimwear label. Its fabrics are knitted in the Midlands, dyed locally and the collection is made in its London studio, with scrunchies and headbands produced using excess fabric to reduce wastage. This square neck swimsuit with a scooped low back, can be worn high or low on the leg and is exclusively available online.

GBP 130 ➤ https://hunzag.com

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I N I S S U E 3 4 , T H E C U LT U R E D

T R AV E L L E R’ S F O O D I E S T R A V E L T O PA R I S , ZÜRICH AND A BEAUTIFUL B R I T I S H V I N E YA R D

LILI ➤ PA R I S , F R A N C E

RIDGEVIEW W I N E E STAT E ➤ DITCHLING, UK

Widder Restaurant Zürich, Switzerland

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REVIE EVOKING THE OPERA OF 1920’S BEIJING, ALEX BENASULI DINES AT

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Steamed fillet of John Dory with minced Iberico ham and Chinese premium black mushroom

IL RISTORANTE – LUCA FA N T I N L ➤ IBLV IL G A R I R E S O R T ,

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➤ PA R I S , F R A N C E BALI

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FOOD ATMOSPHERE

SINCE CHEF LUCA FANTIN PARIS IS FAMOUS THE WORLD collaborated a decade ago with timeless over for its fine food and superb Italian luxury brand Bvlgari to open restaurants. From casual cafés Il Ristorante – Luca Fantin in Tokyo, and neighbourhood bistros to fine the chic Michelin-starred Italian dining restaurants and gastronomic eatery, occupying the top four floors of institutions, the French capital has, for Bvlgari Ginza Tower, has won countless centuries, shown the rest of the world accolades and been lauded as one of how to eat well and create a culinary the finest dining experiences in the sense of occasion. And since more than Japanese capital. At the restaurant’s ninety Parisian restaurants have at heart is Fantin’s drive and passion for least one Michelin star, the city is producing refined Italian classics with a undoubtedly one of the world’s culinary playful twist, married with the style and capitals. classical elegance of Bvlgari.

Understandably, throughout Uniquely perched atop dramatic cliffs Paris, the emphasis remains on on Bukit Peninsula, at the island’s French gastronomy, which is so well southern-most tip, Bvlgari Resort Bali loved and cultivated that it features boasts unrivalled vistas across the on UNESCO’s list of Intangible Indian Ocean. Throughout the property, Cultural Heritage. Rich in sauces sophisticated, contemporary design, and benefitting from France’s diverse blending traditional Balinese influences geography, climate and agricultural with bespoke Italian style, highlights traditions, French cuisine encompasses the locale’s breathtaking natural beauty. the freshest seafood, poultry, meat, Naturally, this sophistication extends to vegetables and fruit. And the nation’s the resort’s premiere restaurant. wines and cheeses are as worldFollowing the immense success of his renowned as its desserts.

Tokyo Fantin flagship, two years ago, In the shadow of such established the eponymous chef opened a second Il and celebrated local cuisine, Parisian Ristorante at Bvlgari’s deluxe Balinese restaurants delivering international resort. The restaurant debuted in 2017 ➤ and exotic fare at the highest standards have been few and far between with notable exceptions. So, when LiLi opened in 2017 – offering Cantonese T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R cuisine at the same level as Paris’ finest dining establishments – people noticed.

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LILI WAS ALWAYS DESTINED TO be standout. Combining longstanding gastronomic traditions of Parisian fine dining with the global reputation for luxury and excellence that Peninsula properties are renowned for, LiLi makes for a chic and glamorous experience.

Originally hailing from Hong Kong, LiLi’s chef, Dicky To, brings to the table

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both an illustrious pedigree and a true passion for Cantonese gastronomy.

His culinary career – which has included leadership roles in some of Asia’s most prestigious kitchens – has won him widespread acclaim.

Drawing upon the hotel brand’s Hong Kong roots, LiLi is a divine ode to Cantonese cooking, flawlessly presented in an opulent yet tasteful setting, firmly rooted in the 21st century with nods to bygone oriental eras.

Located in Paris’ moneyed 16th arrondissement within The Peninsula’s classic fin de siècle Haussmann building, on grand tree-lined Avenue Kléber, although LiLi has its own dedicated off-street entrance, making one’s way through the hotel’s palatial ground floor spaces creates an inimitable sense of occasion. And crossing from the hotel’s contemporary yet classical take on period interior architecture, into LiLi’s threshold, is to be instantly transported to another world.

THE DÉCOR IN LILI IS AS ONE would imagine in the villa of A wealthy

The décor in LiLi is as one would imagine in the villa of a wealthy 1920s Hong Kong tai-pan, realised by a flamboyant French interior designer 1920s Hong Kong tai-pan, realised by a flamboyant French interior designer.

Rich dark wood columns, panels inlaid with intricate patterns and fiery red curtains are offset by oversized electric blue tassels and fanciful chandeliers.

A circular central ceiling fixture from which a single light pendant dangles adds a sculptural dimension.

Ambient low lighting completes the seductive, stage-like setting. You would be right in thinking that all of this sounds a bit dramatic, because it is. Chinese opera served as one of the inspirations for LiLi’s interior aesthetic,

Stir-fried noodles with bean sprouts and chives in dark soy sauce

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the restaurant having been named after a famous Chinese opera singer.

Lacquered wood detailing, screenprinted images of seductive Chinese operatic characters and wall-mounted costumes and masks add avant-garde accents to the theatrical space.

An intimate foyer gives way to the ample main dining room with soaring ceilings, adorned with private alcoves around its perimeter. Contemporary artworks skillfully mixed with antiques add the warmth of a sumptuous personal residence, whilst high backed chairs and banquettes add an element

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of stylish formality. Of course, all of this elegant decadence just whets the appetite for the main event – delicious Cantonese food at its best.

THE MENU IS EXPANSIVE, WITH six and eight-course set options plus page upon page of à la carte choices.

Divided into sections including seafood, meat, poultry, vegetables, noodles and barbeque, the biggest challenge at LiLi is deciding what to settle on as it all sounds so delicious. It’s best to arrive hungry and share plates to sample as many different dishes as possible.

My dish of Kamchatka crab with enoki mushrooms and cucumbers is tender, meaty and fresh. Minced foie gras served with chopped rice crackers to be rolled in lettuce leaves is utterly addictive – I was truly sad when this dish had been consumed.

Bresse chicken paired with jellyfish, daikon and sesame sauce not only tastes divine but proves that the chef is unafraid to mix non-conventional delicacies with the best local produce.

For many, no Chinese feast is complete without Peking duck. LiLi’s version is traditional, classic and quite possibly the best I have ever tasted. The meat is succulent, the skin dark golden and perfectly crispy and the pancakes are thin. If the meal had ended there and then it would have been a triumph.

However, the gastronomic ascension continues.

Obsiblue prawns from the Pacific island of New Caledonia are lightly grilled in Chinese spices. A unique variety of prawn, Obsiblue have iridescent deep blue tails, are famed for their sweetness and texture and are served in only a handful of the world’s best restaurants. They are magnifique.

The sweet and sour duck is the perfect combination of sweetness and savoury. Steamed monk fish from Brittany is accompanied with black bean sauce and bean curd. In fact, throughout the meal,

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Throughout the meal, superior traditional Cantonese fare is continuously enhanced by the best French ingredients

Citrus custard, orange flower, kumquat, caramelised pine nuts

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L ILI FOOD ATMOSPHERE EXECUTIVE CHEF: David Bizet CHEF DE CUISINE: Dicky To ADDRESS: The Peninsula Paris, 19 Avenue Kléber, Paris 75116, France TELEPHONE: +33 1 58 12 67 50 EMAIL: lilippr@peninsula.com WEBSITE: www.paris.peninsula.com CUISINE: Cantonese OPENING HOURS: Daily 12:00-14:30 + 19:00-22:30 LUNCH PRICE: 7-course set lunch EUR 88

superior traditional Cantonese fare is continuously enhanced by the best French ingredients.

This being France, the wine list is encyclopedic and offers even the most cultivated oenophiles something to ogle and open their wallets for, with Lili’s sommeliers on hand to expertly pair wines with dishes.

DÉCOR REMINISCENT OF THE ming dynasty combined with delicious cuisine and classic dishes refashioned in a dynamic way all contribute to make LiLi a truly unique destination restaurant. Private enough for romantic and discreet outings, grand enough for special occasions and sufficiently gastronomically creative to broaden the palette of even die-hard Cantonese food connoisseurs, LiLi is undoubtedly one of Paris’ best dining establishments.

DINNER PRICE: 8-course set dinner EUR 118 IDEAL MEAL: Chef’s selection of steamed dim sum (EUR 30); Barbecued Kintoa pork glazed with honey (EUR 32); Scotland Red Label salmon Lo Hei served with wasabi sweet and sour sauce (EUR 38); Peking duck (EUR 138); Deep-fried prawns with garlic, chili and Chinese spices (EUR 48); Charolais Beef with snap peas and pickled daikon radish in dark soy sauce (EUR 42); Stir-fried noodles with bean sprouts and chives in dark soy sauce (EUR 26); Black sesame with caramel passion fruit sauce and caramelised nuts (EUR 21).

RESERVATIONS: Essential WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes CHILDREN: Highchairs available.

No kids’ menu CREDIT CARDS: All PARKING: Free valet for diners TCT REVIEWER: Alex Benasuli for dinner Star ratings out of five reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service and, separately, the atmosphere in the dining room

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AS THE COVID -19 LOCKDOWN EASES IN ENGLAND, LIZ BINGHAM HEADS TO THE BEAUTIFUL SOUTH

D O W N S , T O V I S I T A N AWA R D -W I N N I N G B R I T I S H S PA R K L I N G W I N E P R O D U C E R

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➤ D I T C H L I N G , U K NOW, I’M NOT saying that I had cabin fever after the UK’s third pandemic lockdown, but when The Cultured Traveller’s editor-in-chief asked if I would like to visit Ridgeview Wine Estate, I more-or-less stampeded to the door!

The day of my Ridgeview visit is bright and sunny, with a divine Mediterranean-blue sky overhead – perfect conditions to visit 2018’s Best International Winemaker, as determined by the prestigious International Wine & Spirit Competition.

I must confess to a personal interest, over and above wanting to get out of the house. I was first introduced to Ridgeview by the sommelier at Amberley Castle, a boutique hotel in Sussex, steeped in centuries of history, where I celebrated a landmark birthday.

At the time, I was of the opinion that only champagne from France’s eponymous region would do, since my view of ‘sparkling wine’ was almost certainly influenced by memories of drinking lukewarm Lambrusco at parties. And so, I needed some persuading as to the merits of English sparkling wine. I needn’t have worried, for the Ridgeview sparkling wine served at Amberley Castle was a triumph and I instantly became a convert!

ENCE

Manish Mehrotra

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Founder Mike Roberts

Head winemaker Simon Roberts

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CHARACTERISED BY ROUNDED and grass-covered hills typically composed of chalk, Ridgeview Wine Estate is situated on the wonderfully named Fragbarrow Lane in the Sussex part of the glorious South Downs. The estate would honestly not look out of place in California, South Africa, New Zealand or indeed any major wine producing area of the world.

The vineyard was established in 1995 by Mike Roberts MBE, who, with his wife, took a leap of faith by buying 30 acres of farm and woodland and converting 17 of them into a vineyard.

Establishing a new vineyard is not for the faint hearted, not least because, after planting, it is a full three years before any fruit develops, and then a further three years of fermentation before the first bottle is ready to pop.

Boasting spectacular views in every direction, the South Downs shelter the vines and help to create a special microclimate that enables the production of sensational wines. I am met by the brand’s charming director of communications, Mardi Roberts, who is married to Ridgeview’s head wine maker, Simon. Part of the second generation of the Ridgeview dynasty, it is clear from the outset that everyone involved in this family-owned business is intensely passionate about their craft.

This area of England – which happens to be at the same latitude as

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the Champagne region – enjoys a cool climate with a long growing season, thus delivering the perfect balance of fruit and acidity so necessary for top quality sparkling wine.

WITH A KEEN FOCUS ON QUALITY, initial annual production of 20,000 bottles was increased to 500,000. This was achieved by the Ridgeview team working closely with other farming families that share the same passion and commitment to quality.

Today, grapes are sourced from nearly 300 acres under vine, hailing

from a variety of English counties including Kent, Suffolk and Norfolk.

The different terroir of these partner vineyards provide a diversity that enables Simon to achieve outstanding depth and complexity in Ridgeview’s wines.

As they march in regimented formation across the estate’s gentle slopes, the vines are a magnificent sight even this early in the year, when bud burst is just beginning. I have promised myself a return visit later in the season, to see them in full fruit. A small, native woodland separates the

two vine-planted areas, and the bonus of a spring visit is to see it resplendent with bluebells.

Ridgeview grows three grape varieties: the classic champagne grapes of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, as well as the lesser known Pinot Meunier, which is a grape gaining recognition for the body and richness it contributes to champagne.

THE ROBERTS FAMILY ADOPTS the motto ‘never resting’ in pursuit of perfect sparkling wines. Ridgeview uses

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the labour intensive process of méthode traditionnelle to produce its wines, by which, after the primary fermentation and bottling, a second fermentation occurs in the bottle, through the addition of sugar and yeast in closely guarded secret quantities. This second fermentation delivers the signature pin-prick bubbles loved by champagne aficionados the world over. Whilst this is an expensive method of production, as with all aspects of the Ridgeview business, there is simply no desire to cut corners.

Whilst English sparkling winemakers are not lawfully able to use the word ‘champagne’, it is worth remembering that it was 17th century English physician and scientist Christopher Merret who was the first person to document the deliberate addition of sugar for the production of sparkling wine. Merret spent much of his life living and working in London, and in tribute to his contribution to the fine art of sparkling wine production, Ridgeview has named each of its non-vintage wines after an area of London; Bloomsbury, Cavendish and Fitzrovia.

On the day of my visit, I opt to sample Ridgeview’s non-vintage fizzes, kicking off with Ridgeview’s signature Bloomsbury NV. Chardonnay is the dominant grape, with lovely depth and character added courtesy of the Pinots. I have two bottles of Bloomsbury NV in my fridge and can attest to it being a perfect match for just about any food! Mardi advises that it will age gracefully, as the Chardonnay matures, but I fear that there is no chance of that in our house!

Next up is Ridgeview’s traditional blend, its Cavendish NV. This is the reverse of the Bloomsbury, being Pinot dominant supported by Chardonnay. It has a rich golden colour with hints of red fruit on the nose. A more complex wine, the Cavendish definitely benefits from being served with food, even if it is just canapés.

FINALLY, FITZROVIA ROSÉ NV IS sampled. This charming, Chardonnaydominant fizz has a small amount

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of the Pinot grapes added with their skins on, to give the wine a delicate salmon colour. Personally, I find rosé wine and fizz hard to pull off, as they are often too sweet for my taste. This wine, however, will be perfect for rosé sundowners once the weather has warmed up. In discussion with Mardi, she advises that Ridgeview Rosé de Noirs 2016 gives Laurent Perrier Rosé a run for its money!

Ridgeview has won more awards than can be listed in this article. But do visit the website to see how much global recognition the wines have achieved.

In the genuine pursuit of excellence, Ridgeview is a true collaborator and a standard bearer for the entire English sparkling wine industry. For, not only does the team work closely with local chefs and restauranteurs, but the family also has a philosophy of coopetition, whereby it collaborates with competitors for the greater good of the whole industry. Ultimately, this can only benefit us as consumers.

The devastating global health and economic effects of the Covid-19 pandemic have given many of us pause

for thought about which businesses we now engage with. Ridgeview has admirably achieved Certified B Corporation status, which recognises a business that balances purpose and profit, and is part of a global movement of people using their businesses as a force for good. Add this to its truly exceptional range of award-winning wines, make it the the perfect excuse to engage with Ridgeview via its wine club, OurView which, amongst other benefits, provides advance tastings of

all new wines released.

Promising to deliver “a memorable moment in every glass”, as we emerge from a global pandemic, what better way to live out Ridgeview‘s motto of “life is for celebrating” than by raising a glass of top notch English fizz with those nearest and dearest, produced by a vineyard that meets the highest possible standards of social and environmental performance. ➤ www.ridgeview.co.uk

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O V E R T H E PA S T F E W Y E A R S , ONE OF THE WORLD’S LARGEST FINANCIAL CENTERS HAS M A R K E D LY U P P E D I T S C U L I N A R Y C R E D E N T I A L S A N D I S FA S T EMERGING AS ONE OF EUROPE’S HOTTEST FOODIE DESTINATIONS. N I C H O L A S C H R I S O ST O M O U A N D D AW N G I B S O N S E E PA S T T H E

DOUR BANKERS TO EXPLORE ZÜRICH’S FOOD SCENE

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FROM ENCHANTING medieval laneways to funky post-industrial districts, the Swiss city of Zürich constantly surprises. With a storied past stretching back more than 5,000 years, the juxtaposition of old and new and the contemporary and traditional is a large part of Zürich’s appeal.

A city that constantly looks forward to stay at the forefront of finance, IT, environmental issues and social trends, Zürich’s modernity is firmly anchored in cultural traditions and a multifaceted history which even extends to its culinary heritage, for the city which brought us Lindt chocolate in the mid19th century today boasts a booming culinary scene.

21ST CENTURY ZÜRICH IS VERY much a thriving foodie city, boasting a wealth of authentic, international

and modern young culinary concepts offering everything from traditional Swiss dishes to contemporary cuisine.

A surging restaurant scene is mingling gastronomy with rock ‘n’ roll, while the city’s night life encompasses everything from experimental cocktail bars to micro-breweries and a regular flurry of pop-ups keeping things interesting year-round.

TRADITIONAL SWISS CUISINE is notoriously heavy, but it would be bad form not to try some local favourites, not least Zürich delicacy, Zurcher Geschnetzeltes, which is an indulgent dish of sliced veal, white wine, cream, onions and mushrooms, often served with rösti. Alternatively, for a bit of a cheesy overload, opt for a classic fondue or raclette.

While fondue is the quintessential Swiss national dish, Zürich lays claim

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to being its culinary home, since the first recipe was published in a Zürich cookbook in 1699.

Of course, it’s not all bread, meat and cheese in Zürich, and the city is also home to the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant, Hiltl, which was founded in 1898.

At Hiltl, guests can order à la carte or help themselves to a sprawling buffet featuring more than 100 home-made delicacies, freshly squeezed juices and more. www.hiltl.ch/en WHILE THE HISTORIC CENTRE OF Zürich, with its cobbled streets, quaint cafés and traditional architecture is usually the main draw for tourists, many of the city’s outer areas have

Clockwise from left to right: Raclette; Frau Gerolds Garten; NENI; NENI

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been transformed into fashionable new districts, where contemporary design meets industrial charm, the coolest of which is undoubtedly Zürich-West.

Occupying a part of the city which was pretty much an industrial wasteland a decade ago, Zürich-West has been transformed into a hotspot for night owls and fashionistas and is peppered with hip places to sip and dine.

Where ships were once built and engines bolted together, art, design, food, culture, shopping and architecture are now the center of attention. Head to Zürich-West late afternoon to browse the funky shops and end the day at Frau Gerolds Garten to eat, drink and people watch.

A veritable urban oasis of greenery and colour, Frau Gerolds is an incredibly popular meeting place for Zürich’s hipsters, creatives and arty

Clockwise from left to right: Baur’s; Baur’s; Lily’s; Confiserie Honold

types and destination central for city lovers of all ages over the summer months, when people meet in the garden to socialise, have fun and chill out.

In line with its urban gardens which cover more than a quarter of the site, Frau Gerolds offers local, simple and seasonal fare. In the summer, the lunch and dinner menus change daily.

Think barbequed sausages served with seasonal salads and pasta dishes topped with thinly sliced Parmesan, all served in eco-friendly 100 percent compostable plates.

In the winter, Frau Gerolds completely changes its appearance, when a huge timber building is erected in which a log fire burns at the centre and cheese fondue is served to hundreds. Whatever time of the year you happen to be in Zürich, a pit stop at Frau Gerolds is a must. www.fraugerold.ch JUST SOUTH OF ZÜRICH-WEST, the red-light district of langstrasse (district 4), once dominated by factory workers during the city’s industrialisation, is once again evolving due to a gradual process of gentrification. Today, gritty Langstrasse is known for its buzzing nightlife, lively pubs and fusion restaurants.

Named for the initials of her four sons, chef and restaurateur Haya Molcho is a big fan of the term ‘balagan’, or ‘pleasant chaos’ in Hebrew, so much so that it’s the title of one of her cookbooks. Balagan is also an apt description for her NENI restaurant at 25hours Langstrasse Hotel, where an eclectic mix of Zürich foodies come together to dive into flavourful sharing plates of eastern Mediterranean cuisine in a lively environment anchored by a bustling, open kitchen.

Banquettes curve around the centre, surrounded by tables in front of giant street-facing picture windows, while a muddle of rainbow-striped lamps, faintly reminiscent of a Middle Eastern bazaar, give off a warm glow. The

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expansive menu has something to suit most tastes, including vegan and vegetarian diners. Highly recommended is the groaningly large Sabich, NENI’s take on Tel Aviv street food, combining scrumptious fried eggplant and softboiled organic egg with tahini, salsa and humus. www.neni.ch/en/langstrasse Fronting Langstrasse, Lily’s has been a comforting fixture on Zürich’s dining scene for more than two decades, renowned for its pan-Asian menu and fast service. The décor is contemporary and very casual, with long wooden benches for communal eating set around an open kitchen in a spacious setting of clean lines and minimal design.

However, Lily’s menu is anything but minimalistic – more a culinary journey through the flavours of Japan,

Thailand, Vietnam, China, Sri Lanka, Korea, Indonesia, India and Pakistan.

While the curry selection is very popular, the Pad Thai Gai is a musttry for its satisfying combination of textures and flavours.

Also ensure that you at least peruse Lily’s extensive /teekarte//, which includes a range of herb, spice and blossom-infused brews with interesting names such as “Sherpa’s Mystery” and “Hypericum Sunshine”. With a focus on fresh flavours done well, it’s easy to see why Lily’s has such a loyal following. www.lilys.ch BACK IN THE CITY’S HISTORIC centre and occupying eight, adjoining heritage buildings dating back to medieval times, smart Widder Hotel has been at the heart of Zürich’s hospitality

TA S T E & S I P

FOOD SCENE

scene for decades. In addition to offering 49 rooms and suites each individually designed to sympathetically accentuate its ancient framework, the hotel is also home to a number of excellent food and beverage venues including Widder Restaurant, AuGust Brasserie and Widder Bar, the latter being an established old town drinking den for locals and tourists alike.

When, in 2017, the hotel added fine dining Widder Restaurant to its gastronomic offerings, the venue was skillfully woven into the fabric of the building by celebrated Swiss architect and interior designer, Tilla Theus. Today, the food side of things is amply taken care of by award-winning chef Stefan Heilemann, who delivers delectable, modern dishes inspired by a range of reinterpreted global flavours using the freshest local produce.

Heilemann’s culinary talent fused with Theus’ sharp yet warm old-meets-new interior décor scheme makes Widder Restaurant a must for gourmands visiting Zürich. www.widderhotel.com ONE OF ZÜRICH’S INTRINSIC attractions is how simple it is to get around on foot. The Limmat helpfully divides the old city into two sections, so,

if you have a rough idea of the direction of the river, it’s hard to get lost and many of Zürich’s main attractions are within easy walking distance of each other. Within a few minutes’ walk of the Widder is Confiserie Honold, which has operated a tea room on the same site for more than a century and its enticing chocolates and sinfully calorific cream cakes are hard to pass by. www.honold.ch/en AS IS THE CASE WITH FONDUE, raclette’s history is steeped in swiss cultural tradition dating back centuries. The term ‘raclette’ refers to both the type of cheese – a semi-hard Alpine cheese with an agreeable aroma – and the dish, created by heating the cheese and scraping off the melted part. It is believed to have originated with cow herders in the mountains, who would place their cheese next to a campfire in the evenings.

In a prime spot in the heart of Zürich’s old town, the Raclette Factory serves up traditional cheesy goodness until late at night, catering to famished sightseers and bar-hoppers alike. The mostly wood eatery is cosily simple and Alpine shabby chic, finished with black and red chairs. The menu is also straight-forward, with Switzerland’s famous melted cheese dish served in an abundance of varieties, from blue to truffle-infused and chili to sapsago clover, accompanied by no-nonsense sides including potatoes and pickled onions. It’s warming, hearty fare served quickly, which is perfect after a busy day of exploring. www.raclette-factory.ch

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Clockwise from left to right: Bottega Berta; the River Limmat at night; Brasserie Lipp

LOCATED IN A QUIETER PART of the city, with a lakeside setting and A warm elegance that hints at its 175-year-old history, Baur au Lac is a hospitality grande dame, whose newest gastronomic offering opened in 2019 to much widespread acclaim.

The brainchild of sixth-generation hotelier and owner of Baur au Lac, Andrea Kracht, Baur’s has been designed in the style of an arty, local brasserie, complete with an eclectic art collection covering its walls and Murano glass chandeliers overhead.

The result is a vibrant, friendly and endearing venue, which is both contemporary and timeless and doesn’t hurt the purse strings.

Indeed, eating at Baur’s is relatively reasonable for such high-quality fare delivered to the table by a distinctly affable team. And capitalising on the vast array of fresh seasonal vegetables, meats and fish readily available locally, the straightforward menu allows the top-quality produce to shine. Dishes are cooked to perfection and an excellent wine list is competitively priced. www.baurs-zurich.ch/en

FOR A QUINTESSENTIALLY French brasserie experience in zürich, with A health dash of Parisian joie de vivre in a bustling setting – complete with waiters moving at high speed in every direction – head to Brasserie Lipp just off Bahnhofstrasse.

Modelled on the original restaurant of the same name in Paris, Zürich’s

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Fruits de Mer options. Also worth ordering are the home made fish soup and fresh tartare prepared-to-order with tuna, salmon or beef.

If you happen to be in the neighbourhood around lunchtime, Lipp’s seasonal Parisian-style lunch menu is ideal for a cheeky mid-afternoon winefuelled sojourn to break up the day. www.brasserie-lipp.ch/en

incarnation deftly celebrates traditional French home cooking in a vast 200-seater restaurant decorated in an Art Deco style, with more than an aura of La Belle Époque.

The fresh fish and seafood are particularly good, especially the numerous types of oysters and various

WE CLOSE WITH A LOCAL favourite that more than lives up to international expectations. A short walk from fashionable Idaplatz, booking ahead is vital at Bottega Berta, since the restaurant has just two dozen seats, although this expands in the summer with the addition of some outside tables.

A pared interior of wood-paneled walls, mismatched chairs, a red-bricked floor and old-fashioned blackboard menus only adds to the charm.

The food is Italian-focused Mediterranean fare, based around the universal principle of top ingredients cooked beautifully and pared with quality wines. While the menu changes daily, the hedonistically creamy ricotta

ravioli with truffle is worth looking out for. And be sure to sample some grappa, or, if the heady Italian spirit is not to your taste, try the white port and tonic with mint, as a refreshing alternative to a G&T. Run by Chris Eckstein, Oliver Gotz and Hamdi Hebibi for more than a decade, Bottega Berta is a lovely combination of friendly service and exquisite cuisine. www.bottegaberta.ch THANKS TO AN INFLUX OF talented young chefs looking to make their mark, as well as the city’s efforts to revitalise many metropolitan districts, Zürich’s culinary scene has never been more happening and its menus have never been more tempting. And whether you’re looking for a fine dining experience, traditional Swiss fare or sustenance of a more earthly kind, Zürich offers a range of cuisines to suit every taste and pocket, all set within the confines of a city bursting with character, life and history, making it the perfect destination for a foodie break.

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INDEX

L I T T L E B L AC K B O O K WEB ADDRESSES FOR EVERY PLACE AND PERSONALITY F E A T U R E D I N T H I S I S S U E O F T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

A

ACE HOTEL KYOTO ➤ www.acehotel.com/kyoto AMANBARGH ➤ www.aman.com AMANZOE ➤ www.aman.com AQUA LUNA ➤ www.aqualuna.lv

B

BAUR’S ➤ www.baurs-zurich.ch/en BOARDMASTERS ➤ www.boardmasters.co.uk BOOK OF KELLS ➤ www.tcd.ie/visitors/book-of-kells BOTTEGA BERTA ➤ www.bottegaberta.ch BOULIA CAMEL RACES ➤ www.bouliacamelraces.com.au BORYEONG MUD FESTIVAL ➤ www.mudfestival.or.kr BRASSERIE LIPP ➤ www.brasserie-lipp.ch/en BRISTOL INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FIESTA ➤ www.bristolballoonfiesta.co.uk

C

CHAPTER ONE ➤ www.chapteronerestaurant.com CONFISERIE HONOLD ➤ www.honold.ch/en

D

DUBLIN CASTLE ➤ www.dublincastle.ie

E

EUROPEAN AYURVEDA RESORT SONNHOF ➤ www.sonnhof-ayurveda.at/en

I

IRISH ROCK ‘N’ ROLL MUSEUM ➤ www.irishrocknrollmuseum.com

J

JAMESON’S DISTILLERY ➤ www.jamesonwhiskey.com

K

KILKENNY SHOP ➤ www.kilkennyshop.com KILMAINHAM GAOL ➤ www.kilmainhamgaolmuseum.ie KIM? CONTEMPORARY ART CENTER ➤ www.kim.lv KNYSNA OYSTER FESTIVAL ➤ www.oysterfestival.co.za KRUGER SHALATI ➤ www.krugershalati.com KULM HOTEL ST. MORITZ ➤ www.kulm.com/en

L

LATVIAN ACADEMY OF SCIENCES ➤ www.lza.lv/en LATVIAN NATIONAL OPERA ➤ www.opera.lv/en L’ECRIVAIN ➤ www.lecrivain.com LES DEUX GARES ➤ www.hoteldeuxgares.com LILI (PARIS) ➤ www.peninsula.com/en/paris LILY’S (ZÜRICH) ➤ www.lilys.ch LÖYLY ➤ www.loylyhelsinki.fi/en

F

M

G

N

FOLKKLUBS ALA PAGRABS ➤ www.folkklubs.lv FRAU GEROLDS GARTEN ➤ www.fraugerold.ch

GEORGE’S STREET ARCADE ➤ www.georgesstreetarcade.ie GRAND HOTEL KEMPINKSI RIGA ➤ www.kempinski.com GRAND HOTEL TREMEZZO ➤ www.grandhoteltremezzo.com/en GREEN PUMPKIN ➤ https://greenpumpkin.lv GUINNESS STOREHOUSE ➤ www.guinness-storehouse.com

H

HABITAS NAMIBIA ➤ https://ourhabitas.com/ namibia HILTL (ZÜRICH) ➤ www.hiltl.ch/en HOTEL BELLEVUE ➤ www.losinj-hotels.com/en HOTEL FARIONES www.pyhotelsandresorts.com HOTEL LE SUD ➤ www.hotellesud.com

MASLINA RESORT ➤ www.maslinaresort.com MICHAEL FEINSTEIN ➤ www.michaelfeinstein.com MONDRIAN SEOUL ITAEWON ➤ www.sbe.com/hotels/mondrian

NATIONAL LIBRARY OF LATVIA ➤ www.panoramariga.lv NATIONAL MUSEUM OF IRELAND ➤ www.museum.ie/archaeology NENI (LANGSTRASSE) ➤ www.neni.ch/en/langstrasse

O

ONE&ONLY DESARU COAST ➤ www.oneandonlyresorts.com

P

PAM ANN ➤ https://pamann.com PATER NOSTER ➤ www.paternoster.se PERUKE & PERIWIG ➤ www.peruke.ie

R

RACLETTE FACTORY ➤ www.raclette-factory.ch RAFFLES EUROPEJSKI WARSAW ➤ www.raffles.com/warsaw RESTAURANT 3 ➤ www.restaurant3.lv RIDGEVIEW WINE ESTATE ➤ www.ridgeview.co.uk RIGA ART NOUVEAU CENTRE ➤ www.jugendstils.riga.lv RIGA BIENNIAL (RIBOCA) ➤ www.rigabiennial.com ROSEWOOD LONDON ➤ www.rosewoodhotels.com/en

S

SIENNA ART CAFÉ ➤ www.sienna.lv SOPHIE’S (DUBLIN) ➤ www.deandublin.ie STONEHENGE FESTIVALS ➤ www.stonehengefestivals.co.uk

T

TALLINN STREET QUARTER ➤ www.tallinasielaskvartals.lv THE BANK ON COLLEGE GREEN ➤ www.bankoncollegegreen.com THE BRAZEN HEAD ➤ www.brazenhead.com THE CHURCH BAR & RESTAURANT ➤ www.thechurch.ie THE CLARENCE HOTEL ➤ https://theclarence.ie THE DOLDER GRAND ➤ www.thedoldergrand.com/en THE DUBLIN WRITERS MUSEUM ➤ www.writersmuseum.com THE EDINBURGH FESTIVAL FRINGE ➤ www.edfringe.com THE FONTENAY ➤ www.thefontenay.com/en THE GUARDSMAN ➤ www.guardsmanhotel.com THE JOHRI AT LAL HAVELI ➤ www.thejohrijaipur.com THE MORRISON, DUBLIN ➤ www.morrisonhotel.ie THE PENINSULA PARIS ➤ www.peninsula.com/en

V

VILLA COPENHAGEN ➤ www.villacopenhagen.com VISIT DUBLIN ➤ www.visitdublin.com

W

WHITEFRIAR STREET CHURCH ➤ www.whitefriarstreetchurch.ie WIDDER RESTAURANT ➤ www.widderhotel.com WORLD BODYPAINTING FESTIVAL ➤ www.bodypainting-festival.com WORLD WIFE-CARRYING CHAMPIONSHIPS ➤ https://eukonkanto.fi

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pam ann

T R AV E L T I P S F R O M T H E TO P

RENOWNED FOR HER SHARP TONGUE AND OUTSPOKEN VIEWS, THE AIR H O S T E S S A LT E R - E G O O F A U S T R A L I A N C O M E D I E N N E C A R O L I N E R E I D H A S A G L O B A L C U LT F O L L O W I N G . H E R E , PA M A N N G I V E S U S H E R T O P T I P S F O R F LY I N G T H R O U G H T H E S K I E S I N H E R I N I M I TA B L E S T Y L E BEING PREPARED I’m always ready to fly.

MUSIC Everyone needs a take-off song -

All I need is my passport, keys, my cell ‘phone and a fresh pair of knickers.

mine is Michael Jackson’s Can You Feel It. My landing song is Patsy Gallant’s From New York To L.A..

LUGGAGE Who carries

luggage when you have houses all over the world?! The only bags I have are the ones under my eyes, especially after a long-haul flight to my motherland, Australia. But If I pack a bag, it will be my vintage 1970s Gucci monogram carry-on.

The matching suitcases don’t have wheels because I have people. I’m Pam mother f*****g Ann, dahhhlings.

BOARDING When boarding a Boeing you

must do so with style, class and glamour. I love nothing more than hearing the sound of ice being broken up, in preparation for that first drinks service. American Airlines international routes have an open bar upon boarding, unlike British Airways, which serves thimbles of champagne prior to take-off.

I love a few G&T’s before take-off because they give me an extra buzz as we’re thundering down the runway at full throttle. What makes it even more special is when the crew know who I am, and my drink is waiting for me before I’ve even sat down. Now that’s impeccable on-board service!

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IN-FLIGHT Once we are cruising

at 37,000 feet I will slip into my XXL First-Class pyjamas (I love extra-large PJ’s ‘cos they’re super cosy), I’ll have the crew make my bed, tuck me in, pour me another cocktail and then I will recline and enjoy the First-Class service.

THE CREW Flying, for me, is all about

the cabin crew. I once flew from Dallas to Sydney in the First-Class cabin of an A380 and, let me just say that I didn’t sleep the entire 16 hours, and I drank my way over the Pacific. As I was disembarking, the Qantas queens even gifted me two bags of vintage champagne and wine, worth over USD 1,500. Now that’s First-Class service!

printed British newspaper either. I do miss flicking through the bizarre products in the now defunct SkyMall shopping catalogue. I mean, who doesn’t want to buy a Bigfoot Garden Yeti Statue, or a Darth Vader Toaster Set whilst cruising through the clouds?!

SKIN CARE Flight attendants around the

world, including myself, use Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream. I have actually created my own version of this, called PAMAROID Cream 2000, which is based on a haemorrhoid cream and is a real opener! Never forget to touch up before you touch down.

SCENT I wear Jo Malone’s Lime, Basil and Mandarin, especially during the summer in Mykonos. I also wear my own Pam Ann fragrance called Fuck Off Spray, which is very strong and keeps people at least six feet away.

STAYING HYDR ATED I recommend

vintage champagne and caviar.

READING MATTER

Nothing beats a bit of porn… just kidding! I like to finger through random on-board magazines like Architectural Digest, Men’s Health, Forbes and the in-flight magazine. You can’t beat a freshly

SLEEP I never sleep on a flight, so if I am not watching a movie, you will most likely find me in the galley, chatting with the crew, taking selfies and discussing the passengers we want to shag.

ARRIVING I don’t do family and friends

greeting me at airports. I have a driver/ lover in every port.