➤ ISSUE 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022 UK £10 EU €10 WHERE THE ANCIENT & MODERN COLLIDE Cairo EIGHTH ANNIVERSARY EDITION KOSRAE ISLAND ➤ PAUL VAN DYK ➤ RAFFLES SINGAPORE SHEKU KANNEH-MASON ➤ SHINTA MANI WILD VIENNA’S FOOD SCENE ➤ BIBLIA CHORA
Tucked between Lake Como and Lake Garda and oozing authentic Italian charm, Emily Millett ventures to Northern Italy to explore the pre-alpine landscapes of LAKE ISEO and VAL CAMONICA.
124 VEGETARIAN CHIC IN THE HEART OF PARIS
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48 AN ANCIENT CAPITAL FULL OF NEW SURPRISES
In Europe’s gastronomic capital, Nicholas Chrisostomou discovers that the coming together of a high-end fitness club and vibrant new bar and Israeli vegetarian restaurant TEKÉS is a Parisian lifestyle marriage made in heaven.
ITALY’S RUSTIC LAKESIDE NEWCOMER
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Set on a private island in the middle of a lake and evocative of a grand country estate, one of our lucky readers will enjoy first class hospitality at RAFFLES UDAIPUR, including half board for two, airport transfers and Raffles’ renowned butler service.
SPEND FOUR DAYS IN SPELLBINDING RAJASTHAN
The wonders of ancient Egypt have mesmerised the world for centuries, but travellers typically only stop in its capital for a few days before fleeing to the Red Sea or Valley of the Kings. Offering so much more than pyramids and antiquities, Dawn GibsonFawcett explores the vibrant city of CAIRO.
ISSUE 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 20224 Pyramid of Khafre, Giza, Egypt highlights ISSUE 39 ➤ SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022 EIGHTH ANNIVERSARY EDITION
MICRONESIA’S NATURAL JEWELLERY BOX
The easternmost of the Caroline Islands, KOSRAE is bedecked with mangrove forests and fringed by sandy beaches looking towards reefs where coral gardens are home to an array of marine life. Samantha Henderson visits this eco island delight.
66 FIVE MINUTES WITH Superstar DJ and record producer PAUL VAN DYK, who has twice been named the world’s best DJ, chats to The Cultured Traveller about his early career and forthcoming new studio album.
Around the world, on almost every day of every month of every year, a fascinating cultural event, unusual tradition or exciting festival is afoot. During the coming months, Venice’s canals will be filled with antique boats and sumptuous gondolas crewed by sailors in period regalia for the extravagant REGATA STORICA DI VENEZIA; male Saharan clan members will paint their faces and don ceremonial costumes to impress female judges in a bid to be named the most attractive clansman at CURE SALÉE; the world’s only alpine crane species will be celebrated in a picturesque Bhutanese valley during the BLACKNECKED CRANE FESTIVAL, and thousands of macaque monkeys will descend on the historic Khmer temple of Prang Sam Yot north of Bangkok, for Thailand’s annual LOPBURI MONKEY BANQUET.
131 124 43 66 34 29 96 CONTENTS 8 1210CONTRIBUTORSEDITOR’SLETTERNEWSFLASH
26 REST YOUR HEAD In the Eighth Anniversary Edition of The Cultured Traveller, the team checksout a dozen new hospitality offerings around the world, including one of Helsinki’s most storied hotels, which was also the city’s tallest building for 45 years, HOTEL TORNI; perched atop Bairro Alto’s main hill in the very heart of Lisbon, new boutique hotel PALÁCIO LUDOVICE was once the private residence of João Frederico Ludovice, 18th century royal architect to Portuguese King João V; incredible SIX SENSES FORT BARWARA is housed within the solid stone walls of a massive 700-year-old Indian fort, 100 kilometres from Jaipur. And embodying a colourful past spanning 100 years, recently unveiled 60-room ON RESIDENCE hotel is positioned directly on Thessaloniki’s iconic waterfront.
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The Cultured Traveller takes to the skies, from Helsinki to Singapore, to experience FINNAIR's new AirLounge business class. 88 HOSPITALITY ICON Named after the founder of Singapore and one of the city-state’s most historic properties, RAFFLES SINGAPORE is a hospitality grand dame. A truly iconic hotel, Nicholas Chrisostomou explores her storied past and basks in her colonial splendour. 116 MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE Catapulted to global fame after winning BBC Young Musician and performing at Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s wedding, celebrated 23-year-old cellist, SHEKU KANNEH-MASON talks to The Cultured Traveller about growing up in Nottingham and race issues within classical music. 128 TASTE & SIP FOOD SCENE
Cantilevered over the raging Timor Rung River in the shadow of the Cardamoms in Southwest Cambodia, Nicholas Chrisostomou revels in the regalness of a unique luxury tented suite at SHINTA MANI WILD, which harks back to the days of Khmer rule.
SUITE ENVY
The Cultured Traveller team discovers that Austria’s grand capital of VIENNA boasts a thriving food scene, teeming with a range of restaurants serving thoughtfully reimagined Viennese fare. 138 TASTE & SIP EXPERIENCE Nicholas Chrisostomou travels to the little known Pangaion Hills mountain range in Northern Greece to visit one of the country’s greatest oenological treasures, the winery of BIBLIA CHORA. 145 LITTLE BLACK BOOK Web addresses for everywhere featured in the Eighth Anniversary Edition of The Cultured Traveller 146 TRAVEL TIPS Travel addict, seasoned globetrotter and founder and editor-in-chief of The Cultured Traveller, Nicholas Chrisostomou finally shares his travel tips.
78 SKY BRIEF For the first time in years courtesy of the pesky pandemic, The Cultured Traveller rounds-up notable global AIR TRAVEL NEWS. 84 BOARDING PASS
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CONTRIBUTORS
THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS Dawn Gibson-Fawcett, Emily Millett Samantha Henderson, Howard Healy WITH THANKS TO Lee Sutton - Dynamic PR, Urban Rebel PR Ilaria Tortora - DOC-COM, Fox Comms. Raffles Hotels & Resorts, Universal Music
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER COCO LATTÉ 5 MERCHANT SQUARE LONDON W2 1AY UK
➤ CITY FOCUS ON CAIRO Dawn is a professional writer and editor who has visited more than 30 countries and lived on four continents. She is equally at home indulging in Michelin-starred cuisine at a chic European eatery, scuba diving in the Red Sea and exploring the mysteries of ancient religious sites in Asia.
DAWN GIBSON-FAWCETT
EMILY MILLETT ➤ SPOTLIGHT ON LAKE ISEO Born into a family of avid world travellers, Emily has had a nomadic spirit for as long as she can remember.
Former editor of TTG MENA Luxury and now a travel writer, Emily contributes to a number of in-flight magazines and high-end publications from her bases in London and Nicosia.
SAMANTHA HENDERSON ➤ ISLAND HOPPING ON KOSRAE Travelling is a passion, hobby and way of life for Sam. She has lived in many countries, is multilingual and is a pro at setting-up home in foreign climes. In 2006, Sam ventured round the world via Canada, the United States, Western Samoa, New Zealand and Australia. Sam is currently running a hotel in South Africa with her family.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU PUBLISHER COCO LATTÉ DESIGN TAHIR IQBAL EDITORIAL JEMIMA THOMPSON ADVERTISING JEREMY GORING RETOUCHER STELLA ALEVIZAKI
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ➤ ISSUE 39 © 2022 Coco Latté. All rights reserved Reproduction in part or in whole of any part of this magazine is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of its respective contributors and writers and are not necessarily shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff. The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles, photographs or other materials submitted. Download the digital edition of issue 39 of The Cultured Traveller magazine at ➤ www.issuu.com/theculturedtraveller/docs/3 9
The Cultured Traveller is published by Coco Latté Advertising and sponsorship enquiries: ads@theculturedtraveller.com Editorial enquiries words@the culturedtraveller.com Subscription enquiries subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com
Follow The Cultured Traveller on @theculturedtraveller @culturedtraveller
coquillade.fr +33 (0) 490 74 71 71 | reservations@coquillade.fr Coquillade Provence Resort & Spa Provence, France n enchanted village, with surrounding vineyards and olive trees and the serenade of the South of France’s eternal cica das. Deep in the Provençal hills, five-star nights tinged with the heady fragrance of lavender and pine. Relish the balmy Mediterranean breeze whispering across your skin, treat your taste-buds to flavour at its finest, and step into a dream world enclosed within the sun-baked walls of a luxury hotel and spa in Provence. A
LETTEREDITOR’S
IN THIS LANDMARK ISSUE, DAWN GIBSON gives us her insider tips to navigate one of the world’s largest cities. Too often used as a steppingstone by tourists, modern Cairo is a mesmerising melting pot and seriously worthy of a dedicated city-break (page 48). On the other side of the world, Sam Henderson visits the Micronesian island of Kosrae in the Western Pacific, where mangroves, coral gardens, lush forests and sandy beaches enchant her family (page 96). Emily Millett investigates a gorgeous, unspoilt alpine valley in Northern Italy, surrounding Lake Iseo, which hasn’t yet been overrun by tourists like its bigger neighbours (page 106) And I literally zip-line into a unique Bill Bensley-designed 15-tent resort, set along a 1.5 kilometre stretch of the raging Thmor Rung River in southwest Cambodia, in the shadow of the Cardamom Mountains (page 68). I told you that it’s time for some adventure!
AS WITH EVERY ISSUE, OUR EIGHTH Anniversary Edition also contains a NewsFlash event round-up, interviews and foodie features, plus we check-out a dozen standout new hotels and resorts around the globe. You can even win a stay at Raffles’ magnificent palace-like property in magical Udaipur, India’s city of lakes (page 46).
SINCE THE SKIES HAVE COMPLETELY re-opened for business, use The Cultured Traveller to help you find the right places to go, the best hotels to check-in to and the coolest new destinations to discover on this incredible planet of ours.
A BIRTHDAY, OR ANY anniversary really, is generally cause for some sort of celebration. Writing about eight years of The Cultured Traveller seemed like an unreachable goal not so long ago in 2020. How things have thankfully changed since then and most of us are travelling again today. And, for the most part, certainly in Europe anyway, the restrictions of the past few years have passed and flying between countries is a pretty painless experience. As travellers, we have an awful lot to thank the vaccine for.
From left to right: Kosrae; Cairo; Peschiera Maraglio, Lake Iseo; Shinta Mani Wild Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief
NOW THAT CORONAVIRUS TRAVEL requirements have greatly relaxed, it’s time to discover new destinations never seen before or journey to places that feel a bit like an adventure. Pre-pandemic, I propagated an unwritten rule to visit two new countries every year. The pesky virus put pay to that, of course. But I have recently reintroduced it, and so I’m now positively encouraging everyone to venture to places they haven’t visited before, for it is this kind of travel which most fascinates and enamors.
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EXPLORE THE DESTINATION AT WWW.MATILDPALACE.COMaffiliates.itsorInc.,International,Marriottoftrademarksthearelogosandmarksnames,AllReserved.RightsAllInc.International,Marriott2020© Stay in an authentic, 1902 Belle Epoque Hungarian palace, lovingly reimagined as a 21st century hospitality heaven and Budapest’s newest luxury hotel star. HOTELS THAT DEFINE THE DESTINATION ™
BRAEMAR
FASCINATING CULTURAL EVENTS AND OUTSTANDING FESTIVALS HAPPENING AROUND THE WORLD IN THE COMING MONTHS
Consisting of a flotilla of antique boats, elaborate bissone and sumptuous gondolas, complete with sailors and passengers sporting period costume, this extravagant spectacle is an incredible sight to behold. University crews from different countries also compete in a captivating event, racing in eight-oared galleons. 4 September www.regatastoricavenezia.it/en2022
GATHERING
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WHILST VENICE’S colourful carnival may be the city’s most famous annual event, devoted fans of La Serenissima never miss the Regata Storica.
news
REGATA STORICA DI VENEZIA
ROUTINELY ATTENDED by members of the British Royal family, these old military exercises remain the same as they have for hundreds of years yet have grown into a worldwide exhibition. Everything from traditional tug-of-wars and caber-tossing to dance competitions and solo bagpipe performances are used to determine the skill, prowess and endurance of those competing. Often divided into categories of heavyweight competition, dance and music, the burly strongman events have evolved into something of a Scottish rite of passage. The caber toss is considered by many to be Scotland’s signature event and sees logs of more than a dozen feet long carried by hulking men and women. Other more inventive ways of pitting man against man include the Maide Leisg , which sees two men sitting on the ground with the soles of their feet pressed against each other. Holding a stick between their hands, they pull back and forth until one of them raises off the ground. 3 September www.braemargathering.org2022 2022
Dating back to the 13th century, this intensely historical regatta takes place on the first Sunday of September each year and is an opportunity to see the city’s iconic waterways as they might have looked when Venice ruled the seas, and Venetian artists like Canaletto immortalised Venice in paintings. Often led by an ornate, historical boat, also known as a bissona , a regal water procession kicks off the regatta at 4pm, starting in the waters off St. Mark’s Square and ending at the gothic palace of Ca’ Foscari.
BAYAN-ULGII IS A far-off land of mountains, torrents and glaciers in the extreme west of Mongolia, inhabited by the minority Kazakh people who herd yaks and goats and hunt with trained eagles. The culture of the Kazakhs is different from the Mongols. Running for more than two decades, Mongolia’s annual Golden Eagle Festival showcases Kazakhstani culture of the world and promotes Kazakh heritage to new generations. Organised by the Mongolian Eagle Hunters’ Association, despite this festival being held in a pretty hard to reach location, where the country borders Russia, China and Kazakhstan, it often attracts a large number of tourists and photographers, for up to eighty eagle hunters come together to participate in this unique two-day event. Adept at falconry, the hunters test their skills by comparing their birds’ accuracy in a variety of different tournaments relating to Golden Eagles, which are some of the largest, fastest and nimblest raptors on earth.
GOLDEN FESTIVALEAGLE 13THE CULTURED TRAVELLER NEWSFLASH
17-18 September 2022
ONAM
KERALA IS DEFINED BY its varied and layered landscape, including hundreds of kilometres of coastline and beaches fringed by the Arabian Sea. Having been exposed to so many foreign influences, it’s a world away from the rest of India and boasts a unique culture and diverse religious traditions. According to popular legend, Onam harvest festival is celebrated to welcome King Mahabali, whose spirit is said to visit Kerala at the beginning of Chingam, the first month of the Hindu Malayalam calendar. This is a time when, after three months of heavy rains, the skies clear and turn blue, forests become a lush, deep green, lakes and rivers overflow and lotuses and lilies are in full bloom. People put flower mats in front of their houses to welcome the king, reap the harvest, celebrate and generally rejoice. Traditional activities during Onam are centered around worshipping, music, dancing, sports and, above all else, eating, the most impressive part of the festival being a grand, 26-dish feast called Sadya. 8 September www.onamfestival.org2022
CURE SALÉE A male member of a Saharan clan – with a painted face and wearing ceremonial costume – is ready to impress the female judges in a bid to be named the most attractive man of his clan at this annual tribal gathering, harvest festival, marketplace and, most importantly, unique male beauty parade. 16-17 September 2022 ISSUE 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 202214
NEWSFLASH THE CULTURED TRAVELLER 15
OKTOBERFEST
DRINK BEER BY THE LITRE , feast on traditional Bavarian foods, be entertained by live bands and carouse away the days and nights with thousands of other revellers from all over the globe at the world’s largest volksfest, held annually in Munich, Bavaria’s capital. Oktoberfest is a 16-day folk festival running from mid-September through to the first weekend of October held in the Theresienwiese area (often called the Wiesn for short) located close to Munich’s city centre. The Schottenhamel tent is the place to be if you want to catch the official opening ceremony on 17th September, since it is here, at 12 noon, that the Mayor of Munich taps the first keg of Oktoberfest beer. Now in its 187th year, the festival is spread over 35 hectares with dozens of beer tents and a massive fairground including the largest transportable rollercoaster in the world, Olympia Looping, with five full inversions! 17 September - 3 October 2022 www.oktoberfest.de/en
ANIMASYROS DESPITE BEING ONE of the smallest Cycladic islands, internationalSyros’animation festival is the largest of its kind in Greece and one of the twenty most important globally. Wholly dedicated to Europe’s animation narrative, Animasyros is held in Hermoupolis, the picturesque capital of the Cycladic islands, which offers the perfect mix of typical Greek island beauty and a variety of Hellenic culture (pictured). The festival comprises special screenings, tributes to international animation festivals, artists and studios, media literacy activities for children, youngsters and adults, parties and numerous parallel events. This year – the Animasyros’ fifteenth outing – the festival expands its program for an extra day and is dedicated to highlighting the innovative animation scenes that are flourishing in the Baltic countries of Estonia, Lithuania and Latvia. Also for 2022, seven competition sections have been added and an industry event offers various networking opportunities which focus on the countries of the East Mediterranean region. 20-25 September www.animasyros.gr2022
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HELD EVERY YEAR IN mid-October since 1956, showcasing exceptional British filmmaking alongside international work, the 2022 BFI London Film Festival’s programme spans features, shorts, fiction, documentary, artists’ moving images, restorations, animation and films for families, as well as a number of titles destined for awards-season glory. The 66th outing of this much celebrated movie fest will present a wide array of features over 9 days in more than a dozen venues, representing a variety of languages, genres and filmmaking styles. The huge schedule of events, the quantity of films shown as well as the large number of creators in attendance make this festival one of the most important of its kind in Europe. Every film is presented with an introduction or Q&A session and the programme also includes a range of free-to-access additional works and events including screen talks with major filmmakers and actors. 5-16 October www.bfi.org.uk/lff2022
NEW YORK CITY WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL
13-16 October www.nycwff.org2022
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19-23 October www.buchmesse.de2022
BFI LONDON FILM FESTIVAL
FRANKFURTER BUCHMESSE
BORN IN 2007 AS A one-nighter called SWEET, the New York City Wine and Food Festival (NYCWFF) is considered to be the largest foodie gathering in the state, featuring more than 80 events providing something for every palate. NYCWFF is widely recognised for its tasting events that celebrate America’s favourite foods, intimate dinners with world-famous chefs, late night parties, hands-on classes, educational seminars and coveted wine tastings. Driving the festival is a commitment to support New York’s leading provider of lifesustaining meals and nutrition counselling, God’s Love We Deliver. Over the course of the festival’s four days and offering a diverse range of dishes and culinary experiences at a range of price points across New York City, culinary giants, celebrity chefs, mixologists, vintners and foodies from around the globe unite to eat and drink with 100% of the festival’s proceeds going to hunger relief organisations.
PEDRO’S FIRMLY established as one of the most important events in the global literary calendar, thousands of publishers, authors, retailers, illustrators, librarians and multimedia suppliers from around the globe converge on the German powerhouse city of Frankfurt for its annual book fair to exchange information, launch books and negotiate the sale of international publishing rights. This year, the festival is exploring new ways for people to talk to each other and exchange information and cultures across borders, with literary works being interpreted and adapted into other languages, different media and new contexts, thus opening new doors and creating fresh perspectives. And for 2022, the book fair’s guest nation is Spain, with visitors encountering the country’s enormous range of literature in Frankfurt, from fiction to poetry, children’s books to comics and essays to audio books, including the unique literatur that hails from the Catalan, Galician and Basque language regions.
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Many participants in Phuket’s annual vegetarian festival perform ritualised mutilation upon themselves and one another, without anesthetic but while under a trance-like state, including piercing their mouths, cheeks, ears and arms in dramatic fashion. September - 5 2022
FESTIVALVEGETARIANPHUKET
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October
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FIELDSSTRAWBERRY
DIWALI
FESTIVALS FORM AN integral part of India’s culture and are at the heart of people’s day-to-day lives across the vast nation. The country’s biggest annual celebration of Diwali –commonly referred to as The Festival of Lights – is an ancient five-day festival celebrated on the 15th day of the Hindu month of Kartika. It marks the victory of light over darkness, hope over despair, and the freedom of Guru Hargobind Ji from imprisonment in 1619 by Mughal Emperor Jahangir, who at the same time released 52 political prisoners from Gwalior Fort. Hence, Diwali is the cause for much reverence and nationwide good cheer. An important tradition in India, participants clean their homes before the festival and celebrate with friends and family by sharing food and exchanging gifts. At night, houses are lit with electric lights, candles, lamps and torches and numerous fireworks are set-off, providing spectacular displays that symbolise the awareness of inner light and the triumph of good over evil. 24 2022
FOUNDED IN 2009, STRAWBERRY Fields is held in a beautiful Murray River site in Tocumwal, a New South Wales town in Yorta Yorta Country on the Victorian border. Over three days, Strawberry Fields celebrates the finest music of the present day, complete with art installations, market stalls and workshops, whilst respecting the ancestors and elders of the people of Tocumwal and Berrigan Shire where the festival is held. Visitors are invited to arrive on the Thursday to secure the best camping sites and mark the start of the festival at a party that night, before embarking on days of adventures which include exploring music in all its forms and discovering new grooves across five stages set on the banks of the river. Live jazz quartets play alongside musical legends, disco DJs and emerging new artists, laying down everything from techno and house to hip-hop, funk and experimental sounds, making Strawberry Fields a veritable musical carnival for those lucky enough to attend. 28–30 October www.strawberry-fields.com.au2022
FESTIVALGIGANTESBARRILETES
HALLOWEEN PARADE
WHILST MANY countries worldwide mark the Christian festival of All Saints’ Day with family gatherings and silent prayers, Guatemala’s residents transform their country into a land of colour with their Barriletes Gigantes festival, which translates to “giant kites” in English. Dating back to the preColombian era, before the arrival of European influences on the American continent, this traditional festival is a year-long endeavour which takes place in the towns of Sumpango and Santiago Sacatepequez on the first day of November annually. Made from thick paper stretched over bamboo frames, with some more than nine metres in diameter, the enormous kites are painted by hand throughout the year by locals and flown over the graves of their family members while flowers are strewn on the ground below. With dozens of kites on display, all promoting peace and companionship for the living, Barriletes Gigantes is a fascinating and colourful festival to experience. 1 November 2022
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NEWSFLASH VILLAGE
NEW YORK CITY’S ANNUAL Halloween parade is perhaps America’ wildest public participatory event, held in arguably one of the most vibrant and diverse cities on the planet. Unlikely to disappoint, the 49th annual Village Halloween Parade promises to be as wild, colourful and creative as ever and will see tens of thousands of costumed party-goers parade through the streets of the Big Apple. Founded almost fifty years ago by master mask-maker and puppeteer
Ralph Lee, this year’s ghouls will be led by puppeteers Alex Kahn and Sophia Michahelles together with hundreds of puppets, dozens of bands of varying musical styles, dancers, circus performers and floats, all watched by a multitude of spectators. The theme for 2022 is “ALL Together NOW!”, with the organisers inviting children to submit drawings that will be turned into the giant puppets that lead the parade. 31 October www.halloween-nyc.com2022
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30 September - 2 October 2022
WHALEHERMANUSFESTIVAL
A few hours’ drive from Cape Town, from June until early December, the waters off the coast of the South African seaside town of Hermanus team with southern right whales mating, calving and rearing their young, whilst giving whale-watchers phenomenal displays of their raw power and water acrobatics.
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8 November 2022 24 ISSUE 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022
11 November
THAT FESTIVALLUANG LAOS BOASTS LITERALLY
JAZZFEST BERLIN INCREDIBLY POPULAR AS A music destination for both fans and artists alike, Berlin is simply teeming with musical variety. From jazz to opera and everything in between, some of Berlin’s clubs are open all weekend while many of its music venues attract some of the biggest names. Founded in 1964 in West Berlin by the Berliner Festspiele and originally called the Berliner Jazztage, JazzFest Berlin is an annual, globally renowned jazz festival. Curated by Nadin Deventer who strives to create an open and diverse festival, which showcases established and younger jazz artists with different musical backgrounds, the festival collectively celebrates the diverse styles of jazz music. Increasingly presenting artists from all around the globe, with an emphasis on contemporary European jazz, gigs are held in Berlin’s well-established jazz clubs across the city, including Quasimodo and A-Trane, and often sell-out so get your tickets early! 3-6 November www.berlinerfestspiele.de2022
hundreds of monasteries,Buddhisttemples and stupas. Located on the north-eastern bank of the Mekong, Vientiane’s relaxed atmosphere is something of a rarity amongst the world’s capitals. Its grand stupa, Pha That Luang was built over an ancient stupa in the 16th century by King Setthathirath, when he moved the capital (pictured). It has since become the national symbol of Laos and is profoundly revered by all its countryfolk. Once a year for three days, That Luang stupa is the focus of a three-day religious festival celebrated at full moon in November, beginning with a pre-dawn gathering of thousands of pilgrims from Laos and Thailand who listen to prayers and sermons chanted by hundreds of monks all representing Lao wats. There follows a grand procession to pay homage to Lady Si Meuang, who was crushed to death as the city’s foundation pillar was about to be planted. The procession ends with a giant firework display.
CONSIDERED A SACRED bird in Bhutan and the only alpine crane species in the world, the black-necked crane is celebrated annually during this unique festival, which takes place in one of the county’s oldest and largest Nyingmapa monasteries. Revered as a symbol of longevity, every November, several hundred cranes travel from their summer breeding grounds on the Tibetan Plateau to this picturesque Bhutanese valley to feed on the dwarf bamboo that grows in its alpine wetlands. An opportunity for the Bhutanese to rejoice and celebrate the arrival of this endangered and majestic bird – which becomes an inseparable part of their daily lives during the winter months – locals sing folk songs and perform cultural dances and conservation-themed dramas themed around the environment and the protection of the graceful cranes, whose presence is believed to bring about bountiful harvests and prosperity. Drawing an increasing number of travellers, the one-day festival also creates a valuable revenue stream for Bhutanese residents. 2022
CRANEBLACK-NECKEDFESTIVAL
HIGANTES FESTIVAL
BANQUETMONKEYLOPBURI
AROUND THE SAME time as Thanksgiving,celebratesAmericathe last Sunday of November is reserved for the Lopburi Monkey Banquet which is held north of Bangkok in central Thailand’s provincial capital of Lopburi. In this part of the world, countless monkeys have adapted to life in an urban environment and become an inherent part of the local culture. Despite their pick-pocketing tendencies and unpredictable attitudes, these fellow primates have free reign of the metropolis and are welcome to enter public buildings and traverse roads just like any other citizen. And, once a year, the world’s wildest dinner party is held in honour of the city’s macaque monkeys at the historic Khmer temple of Prang Sam Yot. As you can imagine, the sight of some three thousand macaques tucking into a lavish feast – which includes tons of fresh produce, rice, ice cream and other tasty monkey treats – is quite a spectacle. 27 November 2022
25THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
THE LOCATION OF the PetroglyphsAngono (the country’s oldest known work of art) and arguably the arts capital of the Philippines, the town of Angono has continuously attracted art lovers from across the nation, not to mention globally. The town particularly comes alive every year during Higantes, when towering colourfully-painted papier-mâché giants, designed to express a person’s character or a unique idea, are paraded through Angono’s streets, much to the joy of excited crowds. According to locals, this practice began when locals in Angono created a dummy to portray a mean landlord who was best recognised by his foul mannerisms and imposing height. For globetrotters visiting Angono, a detour to the Blanco Family museum gives an insight to the origins of this fascinating festival, including a large collection of giant higantes created by renowned higante designer Argana Tori.
NEWSFLASH
26 ISSUE 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022
rest your
head BEGINNING WITH A HISTORIC HOTEL IN HELSINKI, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER CHECKS OUT TWELVE SPECIAL NEW HOSPITALITY OFFERINGS AROUND THE WORLD ➤ HELSINKI ➤ JUNAGADH ➤ LAKE BACALAR ➤ NEW YORK ➤ OKAVANGO DELTA ➤ CONCA DEI MARINI ➤ GENEVA ➤ LISBON ➤ PÉREZ ZELEDÓN ➤ IBIZA ➤ CHAUTH KA BARWARA ➤ THESSALONIKI THE CULTURED TRAVELLER 27 Six Senses Fort Barwara, Chauth Ka Barwara, India
Torni remained Helsinki’s tallest building for 45 years, changing not only the cityscape but also the city’s culture, as it became the favoured meeting place for many cultured Finns, including composer Sibelius and Nobel literature prize winner Frans Eemil Sillanpää. The hotel has also hosted politicians, international dignitaries and royals in its time.
Putting the “H” into Happiness are the staff at Hotel Torni in Helsinki, who are naturally helpful and hospitable from the get-go, when guests check into their landmark property.
During a renovation of Torni in the 1980s, the adjacent 1903 residential building, Kyllikki, was incorporated into the hotel, added a garden space and more guest rooms.
Behind reception, a stunning domed skylight dominates the American Bar, complete with original Paavo Tynell wall lighting discovered during the renovation. A decadent space designed to enjoy hand-crafted cocktails, the bar is the perfect place to kick-off a night on the town.Occupying an entire floor one level down, on the corner of Yrjönkatu and Kalevankatu streets, Restaurant OR is a stylish lounge, wine bar and brasserie all rolled-into one. Presided over by the hotel’s talented head chef, Janne Kantola, the food served at OR is fresh, contemporary and delicious, making the best use of the vast array of ingredients available in Finland.Crowning the hotel is the city's first rooftop bar, Ateljee. Spanning two floors and something of a tourist attraction, begin your stay at Torni by taking in the panoramic views from Ateljee’s terraces, while sipping a G&T made with a Finnish gin and garnished with rosemary and Boastingcranberries.splendid interiors, an impressive collection of Finnish art and original detailing in every historic corner, to stay at new-look Hotel Torni is to be based in one of Helsinki’s best locations while being surrounded by Finnish design and enjoying the happiest of service.
EVERY YEAR SINCE 2012, THE SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT SOLUTIONS Network (a global initiative for the United Nations), has used Galllup survey data to determine the life satisfaction rankings of 150 different countries around the world. Its findings are published in the World Happiness Report. Top of the list in 2022, for the fifth consecutive year, was Finland. Many Finns attribute their sense of contentment to how they use their time, the country’s natural beauty, being surrounded by stunning scenery and connecting with nature as much as possible. Indeed, it takes a lot to dissuade a Finn from swimming in the sea, even when it is covered in ice. And during the summer months, Helsinki is alive with locals outside.
Theconcept.hotel reopened just a few months ago, brimming with restored architectural detailing and glistening interiors, and The Cultured Traveller was invited to experience the new Torni.
HELSINKI
Inside, the refreshed lobby and reception areas delight with distinctive furnishings, including some gorgeous statement pieces. All around, elegant new elements complement the building’s original architecture.
SOLO HOTELSOKOSTORNI
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
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Following decades of continuous service, Torni closed in 2018 for a comprehensive topto-bottom renovation, the immense history of the building guiding the new interior design
A charming, restored Art Nouveau cage lift is supplemented by two new elevators to ensure that guests don’t wait long to be transported to the hotel’s 150 tasteful rooms and suites.
Located in the centre of Kamppi in the middle of downtown Helsinki (an area which is now known as the Design District), Hotel Torni was designed by architects Jung & Jung. It was the city’s tallest building when it opened in 1931, not to mention the first in Finland to use electricity throughout.
One immediately feels a sense of history pulling-up in front of Torni, its tower overshadowing the hotel’s main entrance, albeit a modest 13 storeys.
www.sokoshotels.fi/en
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LOCATED ABOUT 60 KILOMETRES FROM JUNAGADH IN the Saurashtra region, surrounded by the Arabian Sea and vast swathes of forest, Sasan Gir National Park is one of India's oldest sanctuaries and covers an area of almost 1,500 square kilometres of the Gujarat peninsula. Close to the towns of Junagadh and Amreli and often known simply as Gir, the park was established to preserve the sole natural habitat of the Asiatic lion. Yet as well as several hundred lions, Gir is home to jungle, desert and rusty spotted cats, a healthy population of leopard and a myriad of mammals including sloth bears, striped hyenas, golden jackals, wild boars and Indian pangolins, not to mention at least 300 species of birds. And because Gir was not always a national park, its animals and birds uniquely co-exist with the remaining settlements of cattle herders. Situated on the edge of this much lauded sanctuary, wildlife enthusiast Jimmy Patel’s newest hospitality offering, Aramness Gir, is an Indian safari lodge experience steeped in local culture, considerately designed to exude authenticity and luxury in equal measure and provide its guests with an up-close-and-personal opportunity to see Asiatic lions, as well as Gir's extraordinary plethora of wildlife. Skillfully designed by Johannesburg-based Fox Browne Creative, guests are accommodated in 18 beautiful double-storey kothis , built by local craftsmen using local materials including reclaimed stone and wood and set within a village-style setting which is typical of this part of India. Distinctly design-led and sophisticated using understated luxury and subtlety to convey Aramness Gir's message, each one- or two-bedroom villa gives its occupants a taste of authentic India within the wildlife context of its surroundings.
ARAMNESS GIR When guests are not spotting lions or swimming a few laps in their private, non-chlorinated pools (each villa has its own), they are most probably dining al fresco on a fresh, local and daily changing menu of authentic Kathiyawadi food, or enjoying a relaxing spa treatment using products made from herbal ingredients and cold-pressed oils. A complete off-the-grid experience providing everything one could possibly want from an Indian safari, super luxe Aramness Gir is undoubtedly fit for the Sultanate of Guzerat, who presided over this Indian kingdom seven centuries ago. www.ramness.com
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HABITAS BACALAR
SPANNING SOME 100 KILOMETRES ALONG THE MEXICAN Caribbean coastline, running south from Puerto Morelos to Tulum with Playa del Carmen in between, the Riviera Maya offers everything from glamping and family-friendly resorts to sophisticated adults-only enclaves and everything in between. Within this beautiful resort district and located near Mexico's border with Belize, on the southern end of Los Rapidos , narrow 42 kilometre Lake Bacalar is known locally as La Laguna de los Siete Colores , or the seven colour lagoon. With a white limestone bottom making its waters incredibly clear, this stunning multi-hued freshwater lake offers holidaymakers the perfect habitat for swimming, diving and Locatedsnorkeling.on the edge of the crystalline lake, holistic eco-oasis Habitas Bacalar opened less than a year ago with a focus on conservation, complete with an environmental program to help preserve the iconic lagoon. The resort’s serene setting lends itself perfectly to the creation of tranquil moments amid a sense of timelessness. 35 neutral and earthy A-frame cabanas either face the jungle, the mangroves or the lake. Identical apart from the views, each is comfortable and minimalist yet boasts a king-sized bed, comfy robes, fluffy towels, panoramic windows and an outdoor shower. Within the resort and presided over by supremely warm staff, a restaurant with an open-air kitchen, a spa and wellness area and a communal gathering space offer guests a wealth of opportunities to forge
BACALARLAKE MEXICO a deeper connection with the planet via floating meditations, temazcal ceremonies and suchlike. Habitas Bacalar also partners with a variety of local businesses to offer a range of complimentary activities, including sunrise paddleboarding, yoga lessons and guided meditations, enabling guests to connect with the local community. www.ourhabitas.com
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YORKNEW STATESUNITED AMAN NEW YORK
The culmination of years of work, the 83-suite hotel and 22 residences bring the peace promised by Aman’s Sanskrit-derived name to the heart of the city that never sleeps, ushering in a new hospitality era in New York. Transporting guests away from the frenetic pace of the city below into a world of hospitality chic and calm, as well as its flagship Aman Spa, the hotel offers a variety of spaces for socialising and dining, including Italian and Japanese restaurants, a wine library, a jazz club and a wraparound outdoor terrace offering spectacular midtown views, complete with reflective pools and firepits. www.amannewyork.com
HISTORICALLY ONE OF THE MOST PRICEY MIXED-USE properties in the United States, New York's landmark Crown Building is positioned on the corner of Fifth Avenue and 57th Street in an area known as Millionaire’s Row, mere steps from The Museum of Modern Art, Radio City Music Hall and one of the world’s most famous shopping districts. The first ever high-rise in the city and designed by Warren and Wetmore – architects of some of New York’s most influential buildings, including Grand Central Station – the historic 1921 Beaux-Arts building has presided over Midtown Manhattan for more than a century. Occupying all 25 storeys of the majestic Crown Building, Aman New York opened last month following the building’s painstaking transformation into a super-luxe hotel, including a grand double-height atrium on the 14th floor and a three-storey 2,300 square metre spa.
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34 ISSUE 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022 COVERING THOUSANDS OF KILOMETRES OF THE KALAHARI Desert in Botswana, the Okavango Delta is home to some of the world’s most endangered species of large mammal. Comprising permanent marshlands and seasonally flooded plains, the entire delta is an exceptional example of the natural interaction between climatic, hydrological and biological processes and its wetland system is almost completely intact. Located in the magical wilderness of the northern Okavango Delta, Duke’s Camp began welcoming guests just a few months ago and is open yearround, since each season offers its own unique character and opportunities for adventure. Named after Sarefo ‘Duke’ Sarefo, who was born 80 years ago on the very island that Duke's now occupies, the camp is pitched on raised wooden decks beneath a canopy of ebony and leadwood trees.
Comprising a dozen deluxe tents exuding old world safari glamour and yesteryear charm (4 of which will open in March 2023), each is a carefully considered mix of African memorabilia, plush fabrics and vintage furniture. Hand-carved four-posters take centre stage, accessorised by mahogany sideboards, rich kilims and plush fabrics. Guided by safari experts honed in the ways of the bush and the laws of the Delta, guests discover the Okavango's wild landscapes by quietly gliding through its watery channels, embarking on traditional game drives or soaring over the incredible scenery in hot-air balloons. At the end of the day, lavish dinners of delectable fare served on antique silverware and fine wines served in crystal glasses provide the perfect opportunity for guests to trade tales, sitting amidst cabinets of African curiosities gathered over decades by Ralph Bousfield, son of a crocodile hunter-turned animal conservationist and the creator of Jack’s Camp. www.naturalselection.travel
DELTAOKAVANGO BOTSWANA
DUKE'S CAMP
YOUR VERY OWN LONDON ADDRESS... No.1 Great Scotland Yard greatscotlandyard.com 3-5 Great Scotland Yard, London, United Kingdom, SW1A 2HN
Comprising just 29 guest rooms and 16 suites, each of which has access to Borgo’s private beach, every room is a serene haven of peace and tranquility bedecked in mid-century furniture and Italian objets d’arts. Floors are laid in beautiful hand-painted tiles. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide panoramic sea vistas. And 8 suites have private plunge pools. Three restaurants cater to guests’ every culinary whim, including a smart beach club serving casual fare in stylish surroundings and delivering cocktails to thick-cushioned sun loungers. Rather than people watch (for which the Amalfi coast is renowned), to stay at Borgo Santandrea is to enjoy the glorious views, five-star service and wonderful food, and revel in a rare privacy in the heart of one of Europe’s most exclusive destinations. https://borgosantandrea.it
ITALY
SURROUNDED BY ORCHARDS AND PERCHED ON A HILL CLOSE to the coast between Amalfi and Furore, in the Campania region of south-western Italy, charming Conca dei Marini is something of an Italian pearl. Once little more than a tiny fishing village, today Conca dei Marini is one of the Amalfi Coast’s most exclusive destinations. Yet it is still home to just a few hundred inhabitants, who either live in cottages set directly on the beach, or in white houses tucked into the rock, like precious stones sculpted into the cliffs. Rumour has it that Conca dei Marini was founded by the Etruscans, who named it Cossa , before being conquered by the Romans. Offering incredible views at every turn and top-notch service to match, family-owned Borgo Santandrea was the first new luxury hotel to open on this iconic coastline in 15 years. A historic, standout property set on a cliff just above Conca Dei Marini, its unique position gives it a special allure of its own. Over a period of 4 years, the former hotel’s original bones were reimagined by local Amalfitano artisans to create an entirely new ultra-luxe hospitality experience.
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One of the world’s most important centers for science and innovation, as well as home to dozens of international organisations including the United Nations and the International Red Cross, Geneva exudes stature and culture throughout. And a trip to the city’s picturesque Old Town feels like stepping back in time, its ancient maze of secret passages, narrow cobblestone streets and picturesque squares brimming with inviting cafés, excellent restaurants and enticing art galleries. Positioned on Quai Wilson directly opposite Lake Geneva, offering breathtaking views of the water, the city’s landmark jet d’eau and majestic Mont Blanc beyond, The Woodward opened late last year and is The Oetker Collection's first hotel in Switzerland.
SITUATED ON THE SHORE OF ONE OF EUROPE'S LARGEST freshwater lakes, its crystal-clear waters fed by melted snow that comes directly from the Alps, the French-speaking Swiss city of Geneva is completely surrounded by natural beauty.
GENEVA SWITZERLAND
Home to just 26 impressive suites designed by renowned French interior designer Pierre-Yves Rochon, of which 21 face the lake, The Woodward boasts the longest swimming pool in the city and a host of luxury leisure facilities and premium dining options, including Geneva outposts of Le Jardinier and L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon. And a private digestif and cigar lounge deftly brings the building’s banking history into the present day via the skillful transformation of a former vault.
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Perched atop Bairro Alto’s main hill in the very heart of this avant-garde mélange – directly opposite the famous Glória tram and Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint – Palácio Ludovice was the former private residence of João Frederico Ludovice, 18th century royal architect to King JoãoAfterV.
six years of painstaking renovation and restoration works under the guidance of renowned Portuguese architect Miguel Câncio Martins, the palace has been reimagined as a deluxe boutique hotel which opened just a few months ago, and The Cultured Traveller was invited to stay at Palácio Ludovice during the hotel's soft opening. Throughout the building's five floors, original 18th century blue and white tiles have been meticulously restored together with countless frescos
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LISBON PORTUGAL
Considered by many to be the artistic heart of the Portuguese capital, Bairro Alto is the perfect place to be based if you like your city breaks hip and happening.
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DATING BACK TO THE EARLY 1500S AND ONE OF LISBON’S most picturesque neighbourhoods today, bohemian Bairro Alto has traditionally been the favoured haunt of the city’s artists, writers and creativeLiterallytypes.meaning 'upper neighbourhood', its maze of narrow roads weave up and down, in and around the hill. By day they are quiet and pretty much asleep. But by night, the hill comes alive with tiny street cafés, funky wine bars and hidden nightspots which together generate a cool, hipster vibe, especially at the weekends.
www.palacioludovice.com
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A property fuelled by wine, which was also once home to a bar managed by Portugal’s Port and Douro Wines Institute, Palácio Ludovice is a very special hotel where design, hospitality, wines and food effortlessly come together under one historic roof in the centre of one of Europe’s most vibrant capitals.
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER and stucco ceilings. Wherever possible, original brickwork is exposed and architectural detailing is on show. Indeed, every one of the hotel’s 61 rooms and suites is different, each sporting its own style and décor and furnished in beautiful new mid-century themed pieces and gorgeous contemporary fabrics. All rooms skillfully juxtapose modern-day comforts and luxurious hospitality amenities with historic elements. Some lodgings look in towards the hotel’s central, vertical garden, while others afford guests a bird's eye city views. Top of the line is the hotel’s grand 65 square metre Ludovice Prestige suite, set at the front of the palace and boasting high ceilings, twin balconies and spectacular vistas towards the castle, directly above Bairro Alto’s bustling streets.
In the centre of the hotel and bathed in natural light from above, a large square courtyard surrounded by vertical hanging gardens is home to Federico restaurant. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Federico serves as both a restaurant and a meeting place and is the gastronomic and oenological heart of the hotel.
Just off the central restaurant and contained within an ancient brick vault, the hotel’s bar is a wine lovers’ hotspot, lined from floor-to-ceiling with more than 300 vintages and presided over by bubbly and knowledgeable in-house sommelier, Tanya Da Silva. No stay at Palácio Ludovice is complete without a bespoke wine tasting created by Da Silva and a cocktail or three hand-crafted by the hotel’s talented mixologist, Daniel Palma.
HACIENDA ALTAGRACIA, AUBERGE COLLECTIONRESORTS
ZELEDÓNPÉREZ RICACOSTA
Rooted in the belief that transformative well-being should be both peaceful and exhilarating, AltaGracia seeks to stimulate its guests' senses with exploration and meditative escape, complemented by inspiring Latin American cuisine that utilises the best regional natural produce.
Drawing on local healing traditions and cutting-edge science, THE WELL at Hacienda AltaGracia enables guests to reset, rewind and recharge while rekindling their connection to Mother Earth via a variety of wellness offerings that includes East-meets-West therapies, transformative treatments, expert-led health coaching and much more. Indeed, in tandem with Auberge Resorts, THE WELL at Hacienda AltaGracia provides the ultimate opportunity for the cleansing and renewal of one’s mind, body and soul in one of the most beautifully biodiverse places on the planet. www.aubergeresorts.com www. the-well.com
A SPECTACULAR MOUNTAIN RANGE IN COSTA RICA, RISING the sea in the Caribbean to more than 3,500 metres and dropping back down to the Valle General on the Pacific side, the Talamanca Mountains protect some of the most beautiful cloud forests, wildlife habitat, pristine mountain rivers and waterfalls anywhere in the world. Set in the verdant foothills of the Talamancas in Pérez Zeledón, Auberge Resorts’ Hacienda AltaGracia opened towards the end of 2021 offering a unique wellness and adventure retreat, cradling nature and inspiring holistic well-being in partnership with celebrated New York-based wellness specialists, THE WELL. Guests arrive by prop plane to the property’s private airstrip on the edge of a 70-hectare site teeming with birdlife, before being transferred to one of 50 one- and two-bedroom casitas fashioned by designer Nina Gotlieb and decorated in warm, neutral tones punctuated by leathers and linens. Most boast heated private plunge pools, lilac-covered pergolas, hanging daybeds and terraces with spectacular valley and forest views.
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www.standardhotels.com
HAVING ENCHANTED TRAVELLERS FOR MORE THAN 3,000 years and been world famous for its buzzing nightlife, throbbing clubs and rocking beach bars for decades, the third largest Balearic island has recently grown-up somewhat and is today much more than a party destination.Ibizanow attracts visitors year-round for its quaint villages, secluded aquamarine coves, world-class eateries and vivid sunsets, not to mention the warm climate outside of the hectic summer months. And far outside Ibiza's old town with its 16th century ramparts, Ibiza’s bucolic countryside, dotted with olive and citrus groves, offers an array of natural delights which attract everyone from hippies and families to celebrities and the super-rich. Housed within a former movie theatre in the heart of Ibiza Town, where locals used to gather throughout the year, The Standard’s new White Isle outpost is cloaked in a clean, stark white building which would almost go unnoticed were it not for its maximalist rooftop lounge and pool, Up, and happening groundfloor restaurant, Jara. Both became two of the island’s most popular haunts soon after the hotel opened in April 2022. Inside, 67 rooms and suites were designed by Lázaro Rosa-Violán to be a respite from the business of the town and the hotel's public spaces. All sport a pared-back, beach-villa look, with retro-informed furnishings that speak to the hotel's former bohemian identity. A freestanding private residence, Casa Privada, completes The Standard Ibiza’s accommodation offerings, all of which celebrate the resurgence of the energy that originally attracted so many to Ibiza. The hotel is also just steps from the port where guests can take a short boat trip to the many cultural sites around Ibiza, or island hop to the likes of Formentera.
IBIZA SPAIN THE STANDARD, IBIZA
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Situated just over 100 kilometres from Jaipur and sitting directly opposite Chauth ka Barwara Mandir temple, Six Senses Fort Barwara opened in October 2021.
43THE CULTURED TRAVELLER BARWARAKACHAUTH INDIA
A one-of-a-kind hotel steeped in centuries of regal history, to stay within the fort’s walls is to enjoy a unique hospitality experience backdropped by the Aravalli hills. For behind its 1.5-metre-thick solid sandstone ramparts, relaxed luxury prevails in every nook and cranny of the sprawling property, providing guests with a multitude of swimming pools and leisure facilities, restaurants in which to feast, and 48 lavish, brass-accented suites in which to rest their heads. Famed for its population of Royal Bengal tigers, Six Senses also offers daily safari drives into Ranthambhore National Park, which is just half an hour from the fort, as well as trips to Jaipur’s buzzing bazaars. www. sixsenses.com
During World War II, Raja Man Singh, from the noble family of Barwara, fought alongside the British. In appreciation of his services, he was given the fort together with the title of Rao Bahadur. Singh’s grandson Prithviraj was responsible for restoring the massive 700-year-old site and converting it into a luxury hotel. Led by a team of conservation experts, the palatial transformation took almost a decade but was undoubtedly worth the wait.
SIX FORTSENSESBARWARA
LOCATED IN RAJASTHAN’S RENOWNED TIGER DISTRICT OF Ranthambore, Barwara Fort was constructed in the 14th century by the Chauhans and was conquered by the Rajawat Dynasty in 1734.
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The result is a striking 60-room seafront hotel encompassing historic Olympos Naoussa restaurant, a new bar, a new rooftop members club and a new al fresco dining area set in a lush, enclosed garden to the rear of the property. Every element was evidently executed with incredible attention to detail and affection for the building’s rich heritage.
GREECE’S YOUNG-HEARTED AND GASTRONOMICALLY RICH second city may often be dwarfed by the nation’s capital, but Thessaloniki is superior to Athens in many ways.
A standout property that deftly combines the past with the present and adds a layer of luxury to the art of Greek hospitality, ON Residence is the hottest new place to stay in Thessaloniki and, helmed by celebrated chef Dimitris Tassioulas, Olympos Naoussa has been reborn as a culinary tour de force in Greece’s gastronomically rich second city. www. onresidence.gr
Whilst the site’s redevelopment was far from easy, the design vision behind the restaurant’s rebirth and the creation of the new hotel respected its architectural heritage whilst anchoring the building in the present and creating a new city landmark for generations to come.
Located in the north of the country, this vibrant port city is energetic, youthful, teeming with creative spirit and exudes a very different flavour to Athens, particularly when it comes to gastronomy. The area surrounding Thessaloniki is incredibly fertile, the sea is on the city’s doorstep, a cluster of celebrated vineyards are half an hour away and a wealth of fresh produce is locally and readily available. This makes Thessaloniki Greece’s number one city for many Greek gourmands and the word is spreading fast. Positioned directly on the city’s iconic waterfront overlooking the Aegean Sea, recently opened new ON Residence hotel, together with its storied inhouse restaurant Olympos Naoussa, boast a colourful past spanning 100 years, which began when the original two-storey building was occupied by Olympos beer and Naoussa ice factory. When the brands were sold in the mid 1920s, the new owners named their restaurant Olympos Naoussa and the new eatery traded until World War II, when German occupiers commandeered the space and turned it into a music hall. After the war, the building was acquired by a restaurateur who dedicated his attention to establishing Olympos Naoussa as one of the city’s best restaurants, complete with silver cutlery, monogrammed crockery, impeccably turned-out servers and an adventurous menu which drew the attention of international food connoisseurs. Indeed, in 1968, the UK’s Daily Telegraph mentioned Olympos Naoussa in a newspaper article titled 'The Best Food in Greece’, and the following years saw the restaurant
While the massive 1978 Thessaloniki earthquake marked a turning point in the restaurant’s fortunes and new legislation forced Olympos Naoussa to remain closed at weekends, the restaurant retained cult culinary status amongst locals until it closed in the mid-90s, having been declared a cultural heritage site by the Ministry of Culture. It was not until some 30 years later that the building was given a new lease of life, Olympos Naoussa was re-born and ON Residence was created.
become the social hub of Thessaloniki’s elite, not to mention the favoured haunt of celebrities, artists and politicians, including a number of Greek Prime Ministers.
46 a WINrafflesofstaythree-nightintheheartrajasthanatudaipur ISSUE 38 JUNE - AUGUST 2022
Positively oozing a rare, hushed yet decadent elegance throughout, Raffles Udaipur is a modern and refined hospitality palace meticulously fashioned for today's discerning traveller.
TO ENTER Email your contact details to ➤ win@theculturedtraveller.com
47THE CULTURED TRAVELLER PRIZE DRAW ENJOY FIRST CLASS HOSPITALITY IN A FLAMINGO SIGNATURE ROOM FOR FOUR DAYS, INCLUDING HALF BOARD FOR TWO PEOPLE, LOCAL BUTLERRAFFLES’TRANSFERSAIRPORTANDRENOWNEDSERVICE
The draw will take place after 1 December 2022 and the winner will be notified privately via email. This prize can be used any time before 1 September 2023 subject to availability when booking. Blackout dates apply. The prize is not transferable to another person. The Cultured Traveller will not share your details with third parties. Multiple entries will be disqualified. Entrants will be added to The Cultured Traveller's mailing list.
As well as a feast for the eyes, Raffles Udaipur is a veritable feast for the tastebuds courtesy of a cluster of onsite restaurants and bars catering to guests every culinary whim, including Sawai Kitchen, which serves old Indian recipes hailing from Rajasthan’s ancient royal households, and a Raffles signature Long Bar. A peaceful space bathed in natural light, the hotel’s sumptuous spa offers a private escape from the world’s stresses, its authentic treatments encouraging a sense of nurturing and the promotion of both emotional and physical wellbeing.
EVOKING THE AMBIANCE OF A grand country estate, Raffles Udaipur is a magnificent hotel set on a 21-acre private island in the middle of serene Udai Sagar lake, away from the hustle and bustle of the city, Surrounded by beautifully manicured gardens, the imposing dome-topped Palladian property is home to 101 guest rooms and suites, all of which exude a warming east-meets-west design aesthetic and boast uninterrupted lake views, private gardens, balconies and plunge pools.
www.raffles.com/udaipur
AN ANCIENT CAPITAL FULL OF NEW SURPRISES AHEAD OF THE OPENING OF THE WORLD’S LARGEST ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM, DAWN GIBSON-FAWCETT EXPLORES CAIRO’S BUZZING ART SCENE, FASCINATING ARCHITECTURE AND VIBRANT NIGHTLIFE CAIRO
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HOW DOES ONE EXPLORE a city as culturally rich as Cairo? For centuries, the wonders of ancient Egypt have so mesmerised travellers, that the many layers of history which have settled over the metropolis since have often been brushed aside like fine desert sand. Typical whistle-stop Cairo itineraries allow just enough time to marvel at the Pyramids of Giza and be awestruck by Tutankhamun’s treasures before fleeing the city to a Red Sea resort or the Valley of theWhenKings.the massive, new and much-anticipated Grand Egyptian Museum opens in Giza, it will be the largest archaeological museum complex in the world, providing visitors with an opportunity to view the entire Tutankhamun collection in one place, as well as thousands of priceless artefacts complemented by state-of-the-art displays. However, Cairo offers much more than pyramids and antiquities.
CITY CAIROFOCUS
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LOCATED IN NORTHERN EGYPT WHERE THE Nile River and the Nile Delta meet, attracting for millennia travellers venturing from the Levant in the east and the Mediterranean in the north, if you delve beneath the surface of Cairo, you will find worlds within worlds where the past and present collide. The streets of this megacity tell stories of the earliest Christians, as well as wave after wave of Islamic dynasties, the latter leaving their legacy in the form of glorious architecture that resulted in Cairo’s moniker as “the city of a thousand minarets”. Keep exploring and you will find much to surprise and delight, from affluent Zamalek district on Gezira Island, which bristles with art galleries, restaurants, upscale nightlife and chic rooftop bars, to Al-Azhar Park, where 30 hectares of gorgeous gardens provide lush respite from the grit and hustle of the city.
THE LARGEST CITY IN THE ARAB WORLD and the sixth largest on the planet, the capital of Egypt is home to around 22 million people.
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And Cairo continues to expand, with new satellite cities being built at a scale almost impossible to comprehend. Apartment buildings stretch into the distance as far as the eye can see and a new stateof-the-art monorail is under construction to alleviate roadThecongestion.besttime to visit is October through April, when daytime temperatures range from 19°C to 30°C. March and April are particularly lovely as Cairo’s leafier suburbs burst into spectacularly blazes of bright orange, magenta and yellow. Ideally, stay at one of the many international five-star hotels that flank both sides of the Nile near the districts of El Manial and Zamalek. There, you will be close to most of the cultural landmarks and attractions. While Cairo has an efficient metro system –which can be a fast way of getting around outside peak hours – Ubers and taxis are plentiful and cheap: a fare of EGP 120 (approx. GBP 5) will usually buy you a 30-minute journey, depending on the time of day.
AN IDEAL PLACE TO START YOUR ADVENTURE is Coptic Cairo or Old Cairo, not least because it is one of the easiest parts of the city to negotiate on foot. The decision by ancient Romans to construct a fortress here was pivotal in the creation of the modernWhilstcity.the story behind its construction and date are disputed, the Fortress of Babylon is believed to have been built around 30 BC at the entrance to a canal that linked the Nile to the Red Sea. Named after the ancient Macedonian capital, more than 2,000 years later the fort’s distinctive red and white-banded ruins still stand sentinel over an area which includes numerous churches, the Ben Ezra Synagogue and the Coptic Museum. If you only have a few hours in Coptic Cairo, not to be missed is one of Egypt’s oldest churches. Commonly known as the Hanging Church for its position above a gatehouse of the fortress, the current structure is believed to date back to the 7th century and was the setting for the selection and burial of Coptic patriarchs as well as other important ceremonies.
Hanging Church Ruins of Fortress of Babylon
The oldest mosque in Cairo to survive in its original form, the Mosque of Ibn Tulun is popular for its beauty as well as its significance. Built in 876-879 around a vast, open square courtyard, much of the majestic structure recalls the Abbāsid architecture of Iraq.
SURROUNDING COPTIC CAIRO, ISLAMIC CAIRO is another of the city’s UNESCO world heritage sites, with the calls to prayer and preponderance of domed mosques providing constant reminders that you are in a part of Cairo which existed long before the city’s modern expansion. Described by UNESCO as “one of the world’s oldest Islamic cities, with its famous mosques, madrasas, hammams and fountains”, wondering around Islamic Cairo is a visual feast. When the Muslims first conquered Egypt in 640, they shifted the capital from Alexandria to a city they called Fustat, built on a site near the Fortress of Babylon. In the 10th century, the Fatimid empire founded a new fortified city northeast of Fustat, originally called al-Mans.ūriyyah. When Caliph alMu’izz li Din Allah arrived from Tunisia in 973, he renamed the city Qāhirat al-Mu’izz. It is from this that present-day Cairo (al-Qāhira) originates. By the 14th century, Cairo had a population of almost half a million people (by comparison, London had 50,000 inhabitants at the time) and had CAIROFOCUS Mosque of Ibn Tulun
The most prominent icon in Islamic Cairo is the Citadel of Saladin, which has loomed over the city as a symbol of power and governance for more than eight centuries. While best known in the West for his The oldest Jewish temple in Cairo, according to local folklore, the Ben Ezra Synagogue is located on the site where Pharoah’s daughter found Moses floating in the Nile. Round off your time in the city’s ancient heart at Africa’s oldest mosque, Amr ibn al-As, which was built in 641 by the leader of an invading Arab army. www.coptic-cairo.com
54 ISSUE 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022 established itself as an influential hub of Islamic scholarship and culture.
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capture of Jerusalem from the Crusaders, Saladin was the first sultan of both Egypt and Syria and the founder of the Ayyubid dynasty. Construction of his citadel began in 1176, in the Mokattam Hills area, which is the highest point in Cairo. A succession of subsequent rulers unsurprisingly left their stamp on the building, which served as the seat of government for almost 700 years. Muhammad Ali, the founder of modern Egypt, is largely responsible for the way the citadel looks today, including the construction of an Ottoman-style mosque where he is buried.
Citadel of Saladin
A SΙXT car is waiting at your destination beyondTravel the ordinary contact: +30 211 95 50 000 sixt.gr sixtgr
https://azharpark.com THE DRIVE FROM ISLAMIC CAIRO TO Zamalek is around 20 minutes. Once there, it immediately feels like you have landed in a different world, as beautifully restored 19th and early 20th century apartment buildings compete for attention. Zamalek is where wealthy Cairenes and expats play, peruse art in galleries, shop for antiques, meet friends in hip cafés, dine in Cairo’s best restaurants and sip cocktails at smart clubs.
www.diwanegypt.com Diwan is a minute’s walk from Aisha Fahmy Palace, a 1907 Italianate mansion built for an Egyptian aristocrat. Now used to host temporary exhibitions, while the palace is not always open, it Al Azhar Park
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While the view from the citadel is wonderful on a clear day, nearby Al Azhar Park provides a reverse perspective, softening its commanding architecture with a foreground of greenery, fountains and lakes. Taking a break within the park’s tranquil gardens, it is hard to believe that Cairo’s frantic streets are mere minutes away.
On the right as you arrive in Zamalek across 15 May Bridge, Diwan Bookstore is owned and managed by women, was the first of its kind in Cairo and marked something of a literary revolution in Egypt. Today it stocks an extensive range of books which includes a wonderful selection of coffee-table books about Egyptian history and culture.
58 ISSUE 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022 is worth going to the entrance to enquire, since its lavish rococo interiors are worth seeing, not least its grand staircase and salons. You will need to leave your passport with security to get in. In the surrounding streets, a cluster of galleries showcase modern and contemporary Egyptian art. These include the Picasso, which has been showcasing the work of emerging young artists for more than half a century. IG @picassoartgallery. Meanwhile the Zamalek hosts two exhibitions every month for established artists and new talent respectively. www.zamalekartgallery.com And located within the landmark 1920s Baehler Mansions, built by famous Swiss hotelier Charles Baehler, Al Masar exhibits work by leading and recognised Egyptian artists. almasargallery.com If gallery hopping gives you an appetite, take a break at Granita, a modern version of the grand cafés where the well-to-do were seen in 1930s and 1940s Cairo. Tucked away in the grounds of All Saints Cathedral, Granita is the perfect place to indulge in a calorific cake or something more substantial while listening to the resident pianist tinkling the ivories. https://granita-cairo. business.site
www.cairoopera.org
www.zoobaeats.com Round off your time in Zamalek at the National Cultural Centre of Cairo, which incorporates the city’s opera house and the Egyptian Modern Art Museum. The opera house is a contemporary complex of seven theatres, including a main auditorium which seats 1,200 and hosts everything from orchestral recitals and ballet to traditional Arabic music.
For classic street food, head to Zööba on 26 July Street to sample Egypt’s national dish, koshary, a scrumptious carb fest of pasta, rice and lentils topped with tomato-based sauce, garlic vinegar and crispy fried onions. Be warned: the large serving is only suitable if you are absolutely famished! You may come across Zööba eateries throughout Cairo, but the 26 July Street location is the original.
Across from the opera house in the Gezira Exhibition Grounds, Cairo’s modern art museum Koshary
celebrates the extraordinary wealth of Egyptian talent to have emerged from the early 20th century to the present day. As the day ebbs away, find a comfy perch in one of Cairo’s many waterfront venues to watch the sun descend over the Nile. NOX rooftop lounge at The Nile Ritz-Carlton hotel offers spectacular views and a curated menu of cocktails and small plates. As the party boats put on a glittering display beneath your feet, sip a ‘Skyfall’ handcrafted from saké, vodka, rose water, ginger, strawberry, lemon and honey.
Another popular venue with river frontage is the Crimson Bar & Grill. Take the lift to the fourth floor of 16 Kamal Al Tawil Street and emerge into a glamorous rooftop terrace featuring a chic bar. Book ahead for an outdoor table, as close as possible to the dazzling city and river views, and sample Mediterranean-style tapas or heartier plates. The prices are on the high side, but you will remember the views long after the last morsels pass your lips.
59THE CULTURED TRAVELLER CITY FOCUSCAIRO
IG @crimson.cairo
Zamalek Aisha Fahmy Palace Picasso Gallery
www.ritzcarlton.com
THERE IS ONLY ONE PLACE ON THE PLANET where it is still possible to see an intact wonder of the ancient world. Photos of the Great Pyramid – the tallest man-made structure for almost four millennia – are often deceptive on two fronts.
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The Pyramids at Giza
Khufu’s son, Khafre, built a second smaller pyramid a few hundred metres away, and is also believed to have been responsible for commissioning the colossal limestone statue of a recumbent sphinx, which depicts his face and is also located in Giza.
Completed sometime between 2560 BC and 2540 BC, the Great Pyramid was almost 150 metres tall when it was built by Pharaoh Khufu on a plateau on the west bank of the Nile. Over centuries, the white marble outer casing was removed, reducing the pyramid’s height by more than 10 metres.
Firstly, it is impossible to appreciate the sheer size of this 4,600-year-old engineering marvel until it is towering above you. And secondly, it is not sitting in the middle of an empty desert but very close to the modern city, to the extent that the pyramids at Giza often appear as a silhouette on the horizon while negotiating Cairo’s anxiety-inducing freeways.
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Great Sphinx of Giza
The third pyramid at the Giza plateau is much smaller and was built by Khufu’s grandson Menkaure in around 2510 BC. To see all three pyramids in the best light, visit Giza early in the morning before the sun is too high and the site becomes crowded. And consider hiring a professional guide. The day-price is very reasonable (around GBP 30) and a guide will not only give you a greater appreciation of the site but also keep annoying hawkers at bay. Two recommended guides are Mohamed Maher (+20 100 173 0562) and Shrouk Mamdouh (+20 115 700 9368) both of whom are friendly and extremely knowledgeable.
A 10-MINUTE TAXI RIDE FROM THE MUSEUM of Islamic Art, historic Khan El-Khalili market is Cairo’s answer to Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar. Dating back to the late 14th century, there is some order to the chaos within its sprawling, narrow lanes, with 63 Egyptian Museum Museum of Islamic Art National Museum of Egyptian Civilization
An easy, straight and level 25-minute walk from the Egyptian Museum, the fabulous Museum of Islamic Art is often overlooked yet provides artistic serenity in the heart of the city. Inaugurated in 1903, the museum is home to one of the most extensive collections of Islamic artifacts in the world, from incredibly intricate woodwork, stunning ceramics and exquisite carpets to objects that illustrate Islamic innovation in astronomy, navigation and medicine. egymonuments.gov.eg
CONTINUE YOUR CAIRO IMMERSION AT THE National Museum of Egyptian Civilization (NMEC) and the original Egyptian Museum, both of which are on the other side of the Nile. Not to be confused with the new Grand Egyptian Museum under construction, the NMEC opened in 2021 and provides a unique overview of Egyptian civilisation. Its star attraction is the Royal Mummies’ Hall, where visitors can get up-closeand-personal to the Pharaonic mummies of 18 kings and 2 queens from the 17th through 20th dynasties. Whilst staring at the faces of people who lived thousands of years ago is a little unnerving, visiting this grand hall is a must when in Cairo. www.nmec.gov.eg At the imposing salmon pink 1902 Egyptian Museum on Tahrir Square, designed by French architect Marcel Dourgnon, while the mummies may have moved to the NMEC there are still thousands of antiquities worth seeing. egymonuments.gov.eg
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER CITY FOCUSCAIRO
Khan El-Khalili
different sections specialising in different goods. The jewellery souq is amongst the most interesting, as are the districts dedicated to spices, copper and handmade carpets, although one can find almost anything at Khan El-Khalili, from beautifully crafted furniture and wooden keepsakes to bellydancing outfits and oriental lamps. The area really comes alive at night and is a spirited place to end a visit to Cairo. But keep moving to avoid over-zealous shopkeepers and be prepared to haggle hard when you find something you want to buy.
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FROM THE ENDURING MONUMENTS OF ancient Egypt to the architectural legacy of the early Christian and Islamic dynasties, Cairo is undoubtedly one of the world’s most fascinating cities. A bustling, pulsating metropolis that resolutely refuses to stand still, past glories solidly live on in juxtaposition with brash new modern realities throughout the city. Meanwhile centuries of multiculturalism contribute to a rich tapestry of cultural expression which is as evident on Cairo’s archaic streets as it is in its slick new galleries. Take the time to explore the captivating Egyptian capital and you will surely be rewarded with a city break experience that is unlike anything else on earth.
65THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
You started your career as a music producer in the early 1990s?
For many producers, the music we liked did not exist in those days, so we had to create it ourselves. It wasn’t until the mid 90s that the genre and style I preferred, both in clubs and studios, came to be known as ‘trance’.
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My debut LP record 45 RPM. I remember the moment when I held the test pressing in my hands – I was in the subway and smiling like it was my birthday, Christmas and Easter all rolled into one. DJ AND PRODUCER, WHO HAS TWICE BEEN NAMED THE WORLD’S BEST DJ, CHATS TO THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ABOUT HIS EARLY CAREER AND ELEVENTHFORTHCOMINGSTUDIOALBUM
Which track marked a turning point in your fortunes?
THE SUPERSTAR
5dykvanpaul
WITHMINUTES
To what do you attribute the longevity of your three decade-long career? I do what I do because I love music and I believe this comes across. Music is much more than a passion of mine.
How do you physically maintain such a hectic global tour schedule? Staying healthy and being conscious about what to do and what not to do to help my lifestyle.
How does Paul Van Dyk relax? We have the most amazing little dog that puts a smile on my face every time. Walking and exploring with her is bliss. www.paulvandyk.com
Technology has changed considerably since the 1990s – was it easy for you to adjust? I have always considered myself to be more of an artist than solely a DJ, so as soon as it was possible to take studio equipment on-stage to perform, I did. I have now been using sequencers, keyboards and computers on stage for more than 20 years.
You have collaborated with dozens of artists over the years - who was your favourite? I always enjoy working with other artists, but it’s an even better experience when the collaborator is a very good friend, like Johnny McDaid, who I have written and produced multiple tracks with over the years.
The first place you ever DJd for a fee? It was an event called The Brain Party and I asked to be paid upfront so I could buy records!
When it comes to music,electronicIam the same freak now as I was back in the early days!
Do you enjoy experimenting with and developing your own music as much today as you did 30 years ago? Oh yes. When it comes to electronic music, I am the same freak now as I was back in the early days!
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And the clubbing experience for club goers?
My albums mark important parts of my life, each with their own memories. Some of the music on my new album THE RECORD was created during lockdown times and is therefore somewhat different. So the album will be released in three phases: Off The Record features deeper sounds; For The Record is what a music lover might hear at a festival, and The Record will feature all of the above and more.
Yes I did, but it was a very different process. My musical inspiration is life in general. Everything I see and encounter somehow ends up in my music. So, as you can imagine, being locked down and experiencing very little made it difficult to make music.
Tell us You’re about your new album?
Has electronic music always been your favourite kind? As a kid, I also enjoyed British indie and rock music, including The Smiths, for example. But I always had a passion for electronic sounds. I am still a big fan of Depeche Mode, which bridged the British indie rock and electronic music worlds with its new wave style.
In 2003, you were nominated for a Grammy in the then New Best Electronic/Dance Music category, for Reflections . How did it feel to be globally recognised? It was a special moment, of course. But I don’t make music to attract awards. I make music to see the joy and smiles on the happy faces of people enjoying my music. You were voted DJ Magazine’s world’s best DJ in 2005 and 2006. How did this feel? It was amazing because it happened at a time when social media didn’t exist and people didn’t have smartphones. So the people who voted for me went out of their way to vote and make their voices heard. How would you say the dance music scene has most changed?
Did you manage to make music during the Covid lockdowns?
There are many more opportunities today to enjoy all aspects of electronic music. Indeed, we have never been so connected or had such easy access to the music we all love.
In the beginning, the DJ was something of a freak in the corner whilst everyone else had fun. Today, DJs are up front and central; some DJ stages are massive and of epic proportions and there is a lot of emphasis on visuals, although the latter can sometimes detract from the music.
suite envy a regal stay on the wild side THE CAMBODIAN ROYALTY TENT ➤ SHINTA MANI WILD, THMOR RUNG 68 ISSUE 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022
URROUNDED BY DENSE, TROPICAL rainforest, during the rainy season, the Thmor Rung River is the swirling heart and raging soul of Shinta Mani Wild. Adding to the drama and theatre of it all, the river is apparently at its highest ever as I literally zip into the luxury tented camp in dramatic fashion. Nestled in the foothills of the Southern Cardamom Mountains in southwest Cambodia, Shinta Mani Wild is a three-hour drive from Phnom Penh Airport, or a helicopter hop to the resort’s private helipad.
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SOUTHWEST
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CANTILEVED OVER THE RAGING THMOR RUNG RIVER IN CAMBODIA, NICHOLAS
CHRISOSTOMOU REVELS IN THE REGALNESS OF A UNIQUE TENTED SUITE WHICH HARKS BACK TO THE DAYS OF KHMER RULE
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IT IS PERHAPS LITTLE SURPRISE THAT Shinta Mani Wild was the brainchild of renowned hotel designer Bill Bensley, who has a reputation for creating extraordinary properties and out-of-thebox hospitality experiences. One either loves or hates Bensley’s work. Some of his projects are restrained and elegant whilst others are outrageous and maximalist. Shinta Mani Wild falls somewhere in between on the calmer side. Tasteful, warm, inviting and somewhat restrained for Bensley, Wild's incredible location obviously takes centre stage throughout. It’s all about the Thmor Rung River running through the property.
It takes me days to start writing this piece because I am totally beguiled by my surroundings, have been romanced by the omnipresent river and cannot take my eyes off the lush scenery stretching as far as I can see, way beyond the rushing waters. The captivating scene is like nothing I have been immersed in before and I soon discover that the experience of staying at Shinta Mani Wild is probably like nothing else in Asia, if not the planet.
WILD WAS CONCEIVED WHEN A GOOD FRIEND of Bensley, Sokoun Chandpreda and Chandpreda's father, chanced upon a 350 hectare parcel of Cambodian wilderness for sale at a logging auction in 2010. They won the auction and became the proud owners and 70
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IN BENSLEY’S HIGHLY CREATIVE MIND, Wild was the setting for one of Jackie Kennedy and Cambodian King Sihanouk’s first excursions into the untouched wilderness of the Cardamoms. Kennedy and the King may not have actually walked through the valley that is today home to Wild, but she did visit him in Cambodia in 1967, and Kennedy and the King strolled around Angkor Wat together. It was a time when travel was not a common occurrence and globetrotting exuded a special sense of romance.
BUILT BY LOCALS, MANY OF THEM EXpoachers who were trained by Bensley’s Shinta Mani hospitality school to become fledgling hoteliers, Wild was something of a game-changer when it opened at the tail end of 2018. Its primary aim is to preserve the raw, waterfall-adorned river valley in which it sits and protect its sanctuary-like surroundings, whilst offering premium adventure-based stays for discerning travellers. A conscientious and nature-focused luxury eco-resort with scruples, tassels and bells, every lovingly detailed facet of the property, personally chosen by Bensley, contributes to Wild’s story. And what a story Bensley dreamt up for Wild..
SUITE ENVY hence conservators of a Central Park-sized forest sandwiched between two national parks. Once upon a time, the area was home to an abundance of Asian elephants, river otters, pangolins and gibbons. Increased access to the area damaged its wildlife and ecosystem but thankfully they survived. Today the area is walking a tightrope to a much healthier future, supported by a team of Wildlife Alliance rangers funded by the resort, which polices the Southern Cardamoms more effectively and stops illegal logging and poaching.
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FROM THE RESORT’S HQ, liberally spread out along a 1.5 kilometre stretch of the river and connected by winding, graveled paths through the rainforest and bridges crossing babbling brooks, Wild’s 15 luxury tents are sufficiently spaced apart so as to afford the occupants of each an unsurpassed amount of privacy. Akin to extravagant glamping, every one-bedroomed 100 square metre tent boasts a covered, opensided lounge cum dining area complete with a bar over-stocked with complimentary premium spirits, international wines, mixers, cocktail-making tools and ice. Extending from the lounge, an al fresco deck is dominated by an opulent, freestanding outdoor tub to bathe at one with nature. Inside, in air-conditioned
Decades later, none of this romance is lost at Wild, which is bedecked with a carefully curated assortment of antiques, vintage finds, objets d’art and regal embellishments, all of which add to the theatre of the place and complement the functionality of the resort. This is especially apparent in the main building –known as Headquarters – where guests dine on fine fare at any hour of the day or night, or sip a hand-crafted cocktail in the adjoining Landing Zone Bar, which sits at the end of a zip-line that dramatically crosses the river above a massive waterfall. Much fuss has already been made about guests ziplining into Wild and being greeted with cocktails as their luggage is transported to their luxe lodgings. It is indeed an extraordinary arrival experience not to be missed. Actually a series of two zip-lines spanning some 400 metres, incoming guests fly over the tree canopy and the river directly into Landing Zone Bar. And they can zip-line every day of their stays if they wish. But zip-lining is just one element of the inimitable Wild experience and there is much more to occupy or relax guests depending on what’s needed, guided by the resort’s team of attentive and well-trained adventure RADIATINGbutlers.
splendour, the kingly bed is massive, the shower is walkin and deep armchairs are positioned to best appreciate the glorious views. The main difference between each of the 15 tents is their location along the river, with one tent standing out for its enviable position and supremely stately décor.
TENT NUMBER ONE, NAMED THE CAMBODIAN Royalty Tent, was the very first to be designed and built at Wild and occupies the resort’s most coveted position, cantilevered over the Thmor Rung’s wild and rocky rapids, an enchanting 10-minute walk from HQ. When I check-in, the furious river is raging after heavy rains, the noise is thunderous and the atmosphere is wild and tempestuous. Crossing the tent’s private bridge and walking onto its deck suspended over the turbulent river completely takes my breath away. Mesmerised, it takes a short while to register that this is where I am staying, in such a splendid and moody spot, dominated by the thundering sound of crashing water.
IN THE LOUNGE AREA, A GENEROUS COUCH IS upholstered in a bright, animal-inspired print. It is here that I spend my mornings with my feet up, sipping tea and enjoying the unbelievable setting. All around, the walls are hung with all manner of regal paraphernalia appertaining to the tent’s royal theme. It’s fun and theatrical but not OTT and the entire space simply begs to be used and enjoyed. I set-up my laptop on a huge dining table, facing the river. A chest fridge/freezer contains enough alcohol and ice for a small party. Crystal decanters are filled with premium spirits. Ground coffee and a selection of teas are contained within small glass jars. The attention to detail is aboveand-beyond.Inside,ahand-painted map of Phnom Penh’s royal quarter adorns the back of the headboard of an oversized bed. The surrounding shelves are stacked with old trunks, offering boxes and books interspersed with framed antique prints of the Cambodian royal family, original artworks by Kate Spencer and vintage pieces
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AT THE START OF MY STAY I AM CONNECTED via WhatsApp to my personal adventure butler, Lucky Hong. Super polite and helpful, Lucky acts as my guide, coordinator, organiser and overseer of basically everything, arranging my activities, meals, room service, spa treatments, laundry and transportation without any fuss whatsoever. Literally nothing is too much trouble for Lucky. I am not generally a spa person, but the opportunity to have a massage in the privacy of my tent, with the river crashing around me, is too great to pass up. The treatment is so good that in the following days I have two more, even making time for a half-hour head and shoulders massage just before I check-out.
FOR THE FIRST FEW DAYS, I REALLY DON’T want to leave my tent, such is the level of comfort and service afforded to Wild’s guests. I would stay a week if I could. For to check into Shinta Mani Wild is to experience something else, akin to staying in a different universe. Imagine walking onto a spectacular living, breathing film set of Indiana Jones proportions, where everything is real, the food is top-notch, the service is first-class and anything requested is promptly delivered with genuine care. This is the essence of Wild. And I love every minute of my stay on the Wild side. A three-night all-inclusive stay for two people in The Cambodian Royalty Tent at Shinta Mani Wild starts at USD 8,880 excluding taxes, inclusive of meals, beverages, activities, excursions, spa treatments, laundry, roundtrip private airport transfers and more.
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one might have found at Phnom Penh Palace. Gold processional umbrellas act as a canopy over the bed. The theming is full-on but completely in-keeping, adds an intense warmness to the room and I immediately feel at home and begin to unpack and enjoy the space.
SUITE ENVY
THE CULTURED TRAVELLER’S SEASONAL ROUND-UP OF GLOBAL AIR TRAVEL NEWS
Renowned for bringing a modern contemporary twist to the classic British institution of tailoring, it is expected that Boateng’s sharp designs for the airline will propel BA into the next chapter of its fashion history.
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ANNOUNCED A FEW YEARS AGO BUT DELAYED FOR various reasons, not least by the pandemic, celebrated British-Ghanaian Savile Row tailor Ozwald Boateng is in the throes of putting the finishing touches to the new uniforms for the UK’s national flag carrier, British Airways. They will be worn by more than 30,000 British Airways staff including pilots, cabin crew, ground staff, engineers and ramp workers, and it is rumoured that they will be introduced in late 2022/early 2023.
www.britishairways.com UNIFORMS FOR
BOATENG’S NEW
British Airways has worked with a number of famous designers throughout the airline’s 103-year history, including Paul Costelloe, Roland Klein, Baccart Weatherall and Hardy Amies. Julien MacDonald designed the airline’s outgoing uniform, which was introduced in 2004.
EARLIER THIS YEAR, SINGAPORE AIRLINES resumed its non-stop Singapore to Newark Airbus A350 service, considered to be the longest flight in the world, with a flying time of 17 and a half hours to cover 15,349 kilometres. But the battle for the world’s longest distance flight continues..
https://wolfgangpuck.com
Air New Zealand recently announced a 17-hour direct flight from New York to Auckland, which was soon followed by Qantas announcing a new Dallas-Melbourne route which will also take 17 hours. Qantas has also revealed plans to operate the world’s longest commercial flight by the end of 2025, shuttling passengers between Sydney and London on Airbus A350 aircraft in a touch over 19 hours.Meanwhile, due to the Russian invasion of Ukraine, Cathay Pacific is changing the flight path of its Hong Kong-New York route, which may just make it the longest in the world, since avoiding both Russian and Ukrainian airspaces will increase the distance flown from 12,990 to a crazy 16,618 kilometres on one flight!
BATTLE FOR THE WORLD’S LONGEST CELEBRITYFLIGHTCHEF OPENS EATERY IN VIENNA AIRPORT 79THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
AUSTRIAN CELEBRITY CHEF WOLFGANG PUCK HAS added another venue to his global food and beverage empire of more than 100 restaurants, in the form of a new eatery in terminal 3 of Vienna Airport. Opened in partnership with British SSP Group, Wolfgang Puck Kitchen + Bar features an open kitchen, bar and takeaway area, and serves classical international food, Wolfgang Puck signature dishes and gourmet pizzas. In an attempt to attract outside business, Vienna residents who are not flying can park in designated parking bays at Vienna Airport free of charge if their bill at Wolfgang Puck Kitchen + Bar exceeds EUR 20. Puck’s success story began in 1982 with Spago on Canon Drive in Beverly Hills. For decades Puck has cooked for the stars on Oscars night in Hollywood. Today, the original Spago is the flagship restaurant of global Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group and is still as popular as it was 40 years ago.
Last year, Icelandic airline PLAY began flying between Iceland and the United States. Soon it added routes to Baltimore and Boston from Reykjavík, as well as flights from its hub to two dozen European cities. PLAY flights to New York land at Stewart International Airport which is an hour’s drive from Manhattan in New Windsor, but fares are considerably cheaper than flights into JFK, and transiting Reykjavik is a piece of cake. Just watch the prices for carry-on bags and checked luggage, which vary greatly depending on your destination, the time of year and whether you pay online or at the airport. www.flyplay.com
ASKING TRAVELLERS A VARIETY OF QUESTIONS AT MORE THAN 500 AIR termini around the world, every year, airline consulting group Skytrack comes up with the best airport on the planet. Stealing the prize from Singapore for the second year running, Hamad International Airport was named the 2022 World’s Best Airport at an award ceremony held earlier this summer in Paris. Tokyo Haneda Airport came in second and Changi Airport Singapore was ranked third. Featuring a state-of-the-art wellness centre complete with a swimming pool, hydrotherapy tub, gym, squash courts and a full-service spa that offers anti jet-lag massages as well as facials, travellers transiting Doha can even take a nap before their connection in a private, airconditioned sleep pod or cabin.
AFTER BEING PRETTYmuch grounded for two years courtesy of coronavirus lockdowns, the demand for air travel right now is almost insatiable. But sky-high fuel prices and the impact of the Russian invasion of Ukraine have contributed to air fares soaring past pre-pandemic levels. This has prompted a number of new lowcost airlines to take to the skies, many sporting colourful liveries and cheeky names like ZIPAIR, Breeze and PLAY, offering cheap and attractive deals, on the face of it..
NEW TOAIRLINESLOW-COSTTAKETHESKIES DOHA’S AIRPORT VOTED THE WORLD’S BEST 80 ISSUE 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022
https://dohahamadairport.com
theDiscoverUSand Asia in elevated comfort The New finnair.comFinnair
THE CLOSURE OF airspace due to Russia’s military aggression and the opening of borders to Ukrainian refugees have collectively begun to exert influence on all of our global travel freedoms. While there’s been little change at the top of the list of countries with the so-called most powerful passports, the Ukrainian conflict has begun to shake things up lower down the index compiled by London-based global citizenship and residence advisory firm, Henley & Partners. Since war broke out at the end of February, many countries have either amended their entry policies or dropped visa requirements for Ukrainian passport holders completely, prompting Ukraine to rise to 34 on the index, with its nationals now able to travel to 143 destinations visa-free (or visa-on-arrival). Russia, on the other hand, has dropped to 49, a position which is expected to worsen as the conflict continues. At the top of the list, Japan and Singapore share the number one spot, with nationals of these two countries able to travel to 192 destinations visa-free. Although it’s worth mentioning that this does not take into account any temporary restrictions imposed on any nation.
www.virginatlantic.com
www.henleyglobal.com
JAPAN POWERFULAREPASSPORTSSINGAPORE’S&THEMOST NEW VIRGIN UPPER CLASS A330 SUITES 82 ISSUE 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022
THE FIRST UK AIRLINE TO ANNOUNCE A FIRM ORDER FOR AIRBUS A330 NEOS in 2019, reaffirming its commitment to flying one of cleanest and greenest fleets in the sky, Virgin Atlantic recently unveiled its latest A330 neo interiors, including a slick, new-look upper class cabin developed in collaboration with Factorydesign. While the airline’s award-winning social space, The Loft, remains a focal point of the cabin design and is a core part of Virgin’s Upper Class experience, the 30 new, all forward-facing Upper Class Suites on each of Virgin’s new A330 neo aircraft will offer more space and storage as well as a fully-closing privacy door with a DND feature. Inside, passengers can control the mood lighting and watch movies on a 17.3” touchscreen TV. The innovative Thompson Vantage fully-flat bed seats in Virgin’s new Upper Class are courtesy of Thompson Aero and offer superlative passenger comfort.
NORTH OF THE CAPITAL AND CONVERTED FROM MILITARY SANTA LUCIA AIRBASE into a commercial airport by Mexican President Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador, Felipe Ángeles International Airport was inaugurated earlier this year while it was still somewhat uncompleted and will not be served by a train connection until 2023. Following a contentious October 2018 referendum he promoted, Obrador ditched a partly-built new airport in Texcoco, to the east of Mexico City, arguing that the project was riddled with corruption. It cost the country almost USD 2 billion to pay-off the Texcoco bondholders. Obrador then put the Mexican army in charge of building the new airport, which had cost close to USD 4 billion by the time it partially opened. To say that Felipe Ángeles International Airport has had a slow start is something of an understatement. based Helbig has been in the fashion spotlight for more than 25 years, since launching her eponymous brand in 1996 encouraged by her talented mother who, as a professional seamstress and dressmaker who, encouraged her daughter’s early passion for fashion. Combining craftsmanship with avant-garde materials, Helbig’s new uniforms for Iberia were designed to feel comfortable, look elegant, be timeless and make the staff wearing them feel proud to be part of the airline. https://teresahelbig.com
THE CULMINATION OF A REBRANDING PROCESS WHICH began in 2013, a 20-garment collection of chic new uniforms purpose designed for Iberia by Teresa Helbig has been rolledout to flight and airport personnel at the airline’s Madrid hub. The rest of Iberia’s 7,000 staff should be wearing the new designs by 2023, which include dresses, skirts, trousers and coats in navy blue, fawn, red and yellow, as well as a range of coordinated accessories including scarves, ties, gloves and bags. Renowned for designing timeless, fresh, romantic, feminine and sophisticated clothes with a provocative and punk touch, Barcelona-
IBERIA’S NEW TERESA HELBIG UNIFORMS GO INTO SERVICE USD 4 BILLION FELIPE ÁNGELES AIRPORT OPENS 83THE CULTURED TRAVELLER SKY BRIEF
classbusinessreimaginesfinnairtravel THE CULTURED TRAVELLER TAKES FLIGHT FROM HELSINKI TO SINGAPORE TO EXPERIENCE FINNAIR’S NEW AIRLOUNGE BUSINESS CLASS PRODUCT Finnair BusinessA350-900ClassCabin 84 ISSUE 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022
EADQUARTERED AT HELSINKI Airport, which has just been the subject of a EUR 1 billion development program and is within an easy 20-25 minute drive of the city centre, Finnair was founded almost a century ago in 1923 and is hence one of the world’s oldest operating airlines. Finland’s national flag carrier, Finnair has gradually grown from a small airline to a strong and respected member of the aviation industry. Currently serving more than 70 destinations, Finnair today is a truly international carrier and is consistently ranked as one of the world’s safest airlines. A member of the same Oneworld alliance as Cathay and BA, Finnair has also repeatedly been named by Skytrax as Northern Europe's Best Airline. Following a global pandemic which has had a dramatic impact on the aviation industry, Finnair is specialising in connecting passengers and cargo traffic between Europe, Asia and the United States via the shortest northern routes, with sustainability being at the heart of everything the airline does, as it drives to achieve carbon neutrality by the end of 2045.
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PASSBOARDING Finnair
TO BE THE FIRST CHOICE FOR ALL TYPES OF passengers travelling between Europe and Asia and provide them with a premium experience in every cabin drove the airline’s recent EUR 200 million investment AirLounge
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Helsinkiseat
CONCEIVED BY PRIESTMANGOODE in London, the new business class seat concept was further developed by Collins Aerospace, with customisation and final design execution by Finnair and its design partner, Tangerine.
Clockwise from top left: In-flight entertainment; Iittala x Finnair Kuulas glass; Finnair A350-900
Taking its inspiration from lounge furniture and attempting to create more of a residential environment in the sky, Finnair’s new AirLounge seat is designed to maximise business class passengers' comfort and freedom to move during long-haul flights, not to mention the functionality of their personal space. By doing away with complicated seat adjustment mechanisms and surrounding each business class passenger with a high, cocoon-like fixed shell which provides increased privacy, passengers are able to move around more freely in their seats and assume more positions than traditional business class seats allow, emulating the comforts and freedoms one enjoys at home. Something of a complete departure from a traditional business class seat, most radically, Finnair's new AirLounge seat does not recline.
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in the Finnair customer experience, which focused on creating more space on long-haul flights. Introduced earlier this year on the its Airbus A350 and A330 long-haul aircraft, with the complete rollout planned for completion by early 2024, Finnair’s entirely new business class product is perhaps the most innovative and radical new premium seat design the European aviation scene has seen in a decade, if not ORIGINALLYlonger.
A FIRM BELIEVER IN EXPERIENCING A NEW airline product without being pre-influenced by reviews before flying, I’m a few hours into my HelsinkiSingapore flight in seat 2A before I realise that there is no recline button. I don’t look for it until I am mid-way through a movie being shown on a wide 18” screen, with the best in-flight sound I am experiencing in years, courtesy of Bose, of course. In those first few hours, I naturally make the increased seat space my own, arranging my body into a few different positions. These include having my legs on the seat, bolstered by a couple of squishy cushions, as I would if I was watching a movie at home. Indeed, with the electrically operated seat extension in the upright position, the seat feels a lot like an armchair embracing me, and various lighting options allow the ambiance of my nest to my customised, including a cool wall lamp doubling as a reading light. When it comes to sleeping, a narrow infill panel flips up manually to create a long flat surface, with a quilted mattress and a cosy duvet turning the space into a pretty decent bed. Extra space around my head enables me to move my arms into a comfortable position – this alone makes it easier to sleep in a Finnair AirLounge seat than a traditional, reclining business class seat. And throughout the cabin, bespoke mood lighting inspired by Nordic nature and designed in partnership with Hamburg-based Jetlite combats the effects of jetlag and subtly promotes well-being.
ALL CLEAN LINES AND DARK, COMFORTING colours, a nifty seat-back storage cupboard homes my phone, wallet and glasses for the flight and contains a small corded remote and USB A, USB C and PC charging points. Meanwhile, compartments near my feet house my laptop and man bag, with space for bottled water and other bits and bobs all within easy reach. Just my holdall is stored overhead. A fixed, arm-length table to one side of the seat incorporates a wireless mobile charging point, from under which a very solid adjustable table slides out. Together, the two tables can be arranged in such a way that the space either feels like an efficient workstation or a generous dining area. The tables particularly work in tandem beautifully when I decide to work and the space allows plenty of room for moving elbows. What I find especially cool is that the adjustable table can be sufficiently moved out of the way, with my laptop still on it, to allow for easy access to the aisle and washroom without disturbing cables or multiple drinks. This is something one usually only enjoys in a first class cabin. Needless to say, the A350-900 on which I’m flying is
PASSBOARDING
IN LINE WITH FINLAND’S WORLD-RENOWNED design heritage, Finnair worked with a few top Finnish design houses to complete its new business class experience with beautiful textiles and custom tableware.
THE BUSINESS CLASS AMENITY KIT IS compact but beautifully designed by Finnish fashion house Marimekko for Finnair. Containing the basics I need to stay hydrated in-flight and spruce-up prior to landing, it includes a light chamomile and lavender face cream and an almond and coconut lip balm, both by 100% natural Swedish skincare brand, L:A Bruket. The kit also contains a covetable Marimekko face mask, quality ear plugs and a good toothbrush complete with Australian White Glo paste. I also find L:A Bruket products in the washrooms when I change out of my sleepwear. Made from 100% recycled PET, I pop a pair of dark grey Finnair felt slippers in my carry-on before we touch down and feel sufficiently rested and energised to go straight out to dinner in Singapore, barely an hour after landing. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU Finnair’s new business class AirLounge seat is currently available on the airline’s routes to Singapore, Hong Kong, New York, Chicago and Dallas. www.finnair.com
Although I kick-off the meal with an excellent 2018 Labouré-Roi Chablis le Beaunois, my braised beef short ribs main dish is accompanied by a rather good, fullbodied 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon from Chateau Puyarbe Côtes du Bourg. Including Champagne, there are nine wines to choose from, including two dessert, which pleases the oenophile in me.
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In between the main meal and breakfast of onion and chorizo frittata, a tray brimming with sweet goodies and snacks is passed around by the friendly cabin crew, and I help myself to a small bag of Haribo and a box of handmade crisps to nibble during my second movie.
equipped with internet connectivity, which is provided free of charge to business class passengers for one hour.
Four courses (or five, if you count the two cold starters) are served on more chic Iittala chinaware, which is part of Koskinen's contemporary home-inspired Kuulas collection.
Almost as soon as we’re in the air, my Helsinki Gin and tonic (ordered pre take-off) is accompanied by warmed cashew nuts served in a bijou china bowl designed by Harri Koskinen for Iittala. The bowl is replenished a few times before the meal service begins.
the globalmakingshotellegend RAFFLES SINGAPORE SINGAPORE 88 ISSUE 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022
SHORTLY AFTER SWISHING INTO THE hotel’s graveled driveway in a discreet Raffles S-Class to check-in for a weekend in the Lady Sophia suite, I am immersed in genuine old world splendour, surrounded by regal interiors and ushered into an atmosphere of hushed opulence. With the exception of a mammoth Czech chandelier which dominates the spectacular three-storey lobby, glistening with more than 8,000 crystals recalling flower blossoms, Raffles is a modest palace of hospitality where luxury, history and modernity co-exist in harmony. Framed by a grand staircase, the light and airy lobby, lit from above by glass-panelled skylights, positively invites me in. This is contrary to what I expect to feel upon arriving at such an illustrious and imposing hotel.
AN INTERNATIONAL HOSPITALITY CELEBRITY, CHRISOSTOMOUNICHOLAS
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EADING A GLOBAL procession of luxury hotels, palaces and resorts which will soon stretch from one side of the planet to the other, Raffles Singapore is the brand’s flagship property and is the stuff of hospitality legend. Designated a national monument in 1987, whilst the Singaporean star retains the same colonial-era façade, incredibly high ceilings, beautiful verandahs and Victorian pillars, and is one of the world’s few remaining truly grand 19th century hotels, Raffles has adjusted to the needs of modern-day travellers and its hive of attentive staff move at a nimble 21st century pace.
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CHECKS INTO THE ICONIC HOTEL THAT LAUNCHED A GLOBAL LUXURY BRAND
ONE OF JUST FOURTEEN SUITES IN THE main building, the Lady Sophia was named after the wife of Sir Stamford Raffles, the founder of modern Singapore. A new addition to Raffles’ inventory following the hotel’s most recent renovation, the 100 square metre suite was fashioned from a former boardroom and consists of a parlour for living and dining, a butler’s kitchen, a guest cloakroom, an airy, triple-aspect bedroom with windows on three sides, a huge Bianco Dolomite marble-clad bathroom and a private outdoor veranda which looks towards Singapore’s business district. On the morning of Singapore’s 57th National Day, I sit on a rattan sofa on my veranda and gaze at the cloud-skimming skyline, sipping a cup of English Breakfast tea as the island nation wakes up. Nestled in the front-most corner of the main building overlooking the hotel’s main entrance and Beach Road, in the late 1800s, my lodgings would have been within a minute’s walk of Singapore’s beachfront. Today, high-rises and shopping malls stand between Raffles and the waters of the Singapore Strait, but the hotel still remains the most legendary property in Asia and I am ensconced by its warmth and stories. I also feel completely at ease despite Raffles’ intense grandeur.
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THROUGHOUT THE COMING DAYS, I FEAST on exquisite fare in an array of on-site restaurants, I sip delectable hand-crafted cocktails, I am relaxed to the point of slumber in the sprawling Raffles Spa, I work-out in a well-equipped gym and I enjoy impeccable service from a bevy of butlers. Only a true grand dame of the hospitality world knows how to gracefully fulfill the needs of her well-travelled guests with such effortless efficiency, class and panache, and Raffles Singapore is Sarkies clan room the lobby)
HOSPITALITY ICON RAFFLES SINGAPORE
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Palm Court
nothing if not a seasoned hospitality pro, with 135 years of service under her Fendi belt. As British playwright and novelist Somerset Maugham once wrote, “Raffles stands for all the fables of the exotic East”. Maugham was not wrong.
THE STORY OF RAFFLES BEGINS WHEN an enterprising doctor, Charles Emerson, leases a charming Singapore beach house in 1878 and converts the seafront property into a small hotel. Sadly, his aspirations of being an international hotelier are short-lived when he dies five years later and the hotel closes. After a few years, the old Emerson Hotel attracts the attention of the renowned Sarkies Brothers, who had recently opened the Eastern & Oriental hotel in George Town, Penang and achieved overnight success. The brothers proceed to renovate the site and reopen it as 10-roomed Raffles Hotel, which they name in honour of Singapore’s founder. Before long, the hotel is the centerpiece of society gatherings and crazy things happen at Raffles. Within a decade of opening, the Sarkies add three new buildings to the existing structure in an attempt to meet guests’ accommodation needs, increasing Raffles’ inventory to 75 rooms. A ballroom and billiards hall are also added and the Sarkies kit out every guest room with the finest of the era’s fittings, including electric lighting and ceiling fans. By the late 1890s, such is the demand for rooms at Raffles, that the Sarkies hire architect Regent A. J. Bidwell to rebuild the hotel for the next century. Creating the hotel’s now iconic façade by fusing a blend of design styles which become known as Singapore’s colonial architecture, many consider Bidwell’s greatest achievement to be
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AFTER THE WAR, CHARLIE CHAPLIN AND Noel Coward (who both stayed at Raffles in the 1930s) return to the hotel along with Elizabeth Taylor, Ava Gardner, Maurice Chevalier and other stars of stage and screen. To this day, Noel Coward’s biggest hit, I’ll See You Again, is played every evening when the oldest piece of furniture in the hotel, the grandfather clock in the lobby, strikesUnder8pm.private ownership, Raffles resumes its place as Singapore’s premier hotel, a fact that is seemingly confirmed when much of Guy Green's 1967 British comedy, Pretty Polly, is filmed within its buildings and extensive grounds.
HOSPITALITY ICON RAFFLES SINGAPORE his work on Raffles. The hotel’s new look greatly contributes to its emergence as one of Asia’s premier hotels and Singapore’s growth as one of Asia’s most popular destinations. During the following years, as Raffles’ popularity swells in society circles, a number of renowned luminaries drop anchor and spend time at the hotel.
THE GREAT DEPRESSION OF THE LATE 1920s unfortunately marks a drastic turn in Raffles’ fortunes, as the last surviving Sarkies brother files for bankruptcy and the industrialised world suffers the worst economic downturn in history. The hotel subsequently recovers under new ownership, until the outbreak of World War II and the ensuing Japanese invasion and occupation of Singapore in 1942. As Japan’s army descends on Singapore, legend has it that Raffles holds one last waltz in order to distract Japanese soldiers, while the hotel’s silver is hidden in the Palm Court.
1972 IS THE YEAR WHEN BOTH HM QUEEN Elizabeth II visits Raffles for the first time and one Mr. Leslie Danker joins the hotel’s staff. HM Queen Elizabeth II visits Raffles again in 1989. When Her Majesty stays at the hotel on her third visit in 2006, she is introduced to Danker. Today, Danker is the hotel’s resident historian. Something of a walking Raffles history book, having been with the hotel for 50 years, 80-year-old Danker conducts heritage tours for hotel guests and is often fully booked all day. Indeed, the grandfather clock in the lobby and Leslie Danker are Raffles’ two most valuable historical pieces. In 2012, Danker meets the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, when Kate and William follow in their grandmother’s regal footsteps and stay at Raffles. Writers Bar Singapore SlingLa Dame de Pic
www.raffles.com/singapore
WITH A KNACK FOR THE THOUGHTFUL renovation of hugely historic hotels, in 2017, Champalimaud Design begins the mammoth task of overseeing the revamp of every part of Raffles, including the sensitive reimagination of its public areas and all guest rooms. Some two years later, Raffles gracefully emerges from the three-phased restoration with 115 new-look guest suites. Tastefully and elegantly reborn for modern travellers, the property’s social spirit is restored via restructured spaces which positively invite the local community into the hotel.
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A sophisticated space dominated by a gorgeous brass bar and a striking contemporary chandelier overhead, sipping a Writers Bar signature Million Dollar Cocktail, made with Sipsmith Raffles 1915 Gin, is the perfect prelude to dinner.
HOSPITALITY ICON RAFFLES SINGAPORE
A variety of new, high-end restaurants complement the revitalised hotel, including Alain Ducasse and Jereme Leung venues, and La Dame de Pic, an offshoot of culinary maestro AnneSophie Pic's three Michelin-starred Maison Pic in southeast France.
WHILST IT WOULD BE RUDE NOT TO partake of a Singapore Sling while staying in the hotel, since the nation’s cocktail was created in 1915 by Raffles bartender Ngiam Tong Boon, instead of tourist-filled Long Bar, I pull up a stool at Writers Bar for an aperitif.
Set in an elegant, feminine-inspired dining room, of all the excellent meals I enjoy at Raffles (none of which can be faulted), the tasting menu I relish at La Dame de Pic stands out for a multitude of reasons, not least the complex and evocative flavours of every course, the wonderful cheese trolley and the entire experience being unstuffy for fine dining.
SET WITHIN A LUSH 5-ACRE COMPLEX IN the heart of Singapore, Raffles is a rare example of an iconic and intensely storied hotel which successfully straddles the old and new. Deftly offering its guests contemporary facilities, upto-date food and beverage experiences and every conceivable comfort, while keeping one foot firmly in the past and celebrating its enormous heritage every day, makes Raffles Singapore a hospitality icon of the modern world.
KOSRAE MICRONESIA jewellerymicronesia’sboxfornaturelovers
DESTINATION HOPPINGISLAND BEDECKED WITH MANGROVE FORESTS AND EDGED BY SANDY BEACHES LOOKING TOWARDS REEFS WHERE CORAL GARDENS ARE HOME TO AN ARRAY OF MARINE LIFE, SAMANTHA HENDERSON VISITS THE ECO ISLAND DELIGHT OF KOSRAE THE CULTURED TRAVELLER 97
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A VOLCANIC ISLAND, KOSRAE WAS PROBABLY first settled around the first millennium AD. Thereafter, Malayo-Polynesian seafarers were attracted to Kosrae by its lands rich in fish, birds andByvegetation.theMiddle Ages, the island’s population had grown to around 40,000 and there are fascinating ruins and archeological sites on the island dating back to this period. But the following 200 years saw the establishment of a Spanish colony and the decimation of the population by smallpox to less that 1,000. Thankfully the islanders embraced the beliefs of the early Christian missionaries who followed closely in the wake of the decadence and disease brought by pirate and whaling ships in the 1800s, and many traditional skills were not lost.
SET ON A SERIES OF ISLANDS IN the South Pacific, if you’ve watched Walt Disney’s animated movie Moana you’ll have met Te Fiti. A fictional Polynesian princess with the ability to create life, Te Fiti gifts the movie’s heroes a magical fish-hook, an outrigger canoe and the winds to sail it, before she lies down to sleep, her body forming the shape of a verdant green island. Populated by one of the most peaceful and gracious people on the planet, the “Island of the Sleeping Lady” is what locals call Kosrae in the Western Pacific Ocean, since the luxuriant isle resembles the figure of a reclining woman. Situated 8 hours west of the Hawaiian capital of Honolulu and 5 hours south of American Guam, Kosrae is the smallest of the Caroline Islands and is often referred to as the jewel of Micronesia due to its pristine reefs, lush vegetation, peaceful islanders and relaxed pace of life.
ISLAND HOPPINGKOSRAE
Traditional Kosrean stick dance
A HALF-HOUR DRIVE FROM THE AIRPORT, which is positioned on an artificial island some 150 metres from the coast and connected to the main island by a causeway, Pacific Treelodge Resort was built more than three decades ago by the Sigrah family, one of the oldest on Kosrae.
ISLAND HOPPING KOSRAE
The Spanish were followed by the Germans, the Japanese and, eventually, the Americans. Indeed, sovereign Micronesia is still associated with the United States today. Fine weaving from hibiscus, pandanus and coconut palm; wood carving; traditional canoe and cottage construction, fishing and farming continue to be practiced regularly on Kosrae, as they have been for hundreds of years, and are handed down through the generations. Yet while it is still possible for travellers to experience some of Kosrae’s original culture, of more interest to most visitors is the prospect of observing, in close proximity, some of the oldest and most productive ecosystems on earth.
One of the first hotels to be erected on the island and now the most established and intimately in tune with local culture and customs, Pacific Treelodge’s environmental, economic and social policies include measures to recycle waste materials, conserve energy, protect the mangrove forests and monitor the health of the ocean. Consequently, Pacific Treelodge plays host to many of the island’s eco-driven visitors including scientists, health professionals,
government officials and US military personnel from the nearby Marshall Islands. Throughout the resort the atmosphere is relaxed, casual and laid-back. Guests are treated like friends and the Treelodge’s welcoming and sociable owners, Mark and Maria, are a hive of knowledge, tips and connections. Outdoor paths and bridges – fashioned from an ingenious mix of crushed recycled glass and cement – crisscross the tropical grounds. The simple, air-conditioned accommodation is bright, clean and functions well, as does the wi-fi, which is a rarity in Micronesia! If you have a choice, the rooms veiled by mangroves and mere footsteps from a sandy bay, lapped by warm clear blue waters and fringed by coral reefs, are the ones to book. kosraetreelodge.com
KOSRAE’S COASTAL MANGROVE FORESTS and sprawling, fringing reefs are considered to be some of the healthiest in Micronesia and support a small but growing diving and ecotourism industry. Such intense, natural ecological richness is still present in very few locations around the world, making Kosrae something of a unique destination. Begin your Kosrae adventure by kayaking upriver into the heart of the island’s mangroves, squeezing through narrow channels, ducking under low hanging branches and catching the incredible reflections in the still waters. During full moons, exceptionally high tides enable kayakers to venture further, following tranquil seawater channels miles upstream. Within the intricate mesh of roots beneath the water you will undoubtedly spot small crabs, colourful fish and giant red mangrove crabs. Return for dinner on the deck of Bully’s, Treelodge’s onsite restaurant situated on a beautiful lake. Sip a coconut-infused cocktail, watch the sunset and feast on huge, fresh mangrove crab, caught minutes from your table. Served with a
101THE CULTURED TRAVELLER Kosrae Fruit Dove
CONNECTED TO KOSRAE BY A CAUSEWAY, Lelu Island was once the location of a massive walled city, built between the 13th and 14th centuries for Kosraean royalty. Known as the ancient capital of the Pacific Ocean, the city’s ruins, which are being slowly enveloped by the jungle, are hidden behind thick tropical vegetation in the kind of isolated setting you might imagine trekking hours to find. But you can still see the dwelling compounds of high chiefs, two royal burial mounds, a few sacred compounds and a number of large walls built from large hexagonal basalt planks stacked like a log cabin. The ruins of the enigmatic ancient civilization Ruins Ginger
102 ISSUE 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022 cup of mangrovetheKosraeantraditionalsoup,earthytasteofcrabis unique and the claws are large and meaty. If you’re lucky, your dinner may be accompanied by the soothing sounds of a Kosraean lullaby strummed by a local lady on a ukulele.
LOCATED HALFWAY BETWEEN THE SURF line and the shore across from the Kosrae Nautilus Resort, visiting the Blue Hole is a must when on Kosrae. Offering calm waters ideal for snorkelers of all skill levels, this large hole in the reef flat features a number of coral heads providing plenty of hiding places for tropical fish. As you walk over the sandy banks, through the slender sea grasses toward this natural fish sanctuary, look out for sea cucumbers and stingrays. The grasses gradually give way to coral, then to the hole itself, which is protected by an outer reef making it easy to snorkel without interference from currents or choppy waves. Once you’ve had your fill of snorkeling, join the locals hunting for small shells, which they use to create handmade crafts. Be sure to take lots of bottled water and sunscreen to the Blue Hole and tread carefully to avoid damaging the corals.
The Lelu
ISLAND HOPPINGKOSRAE Ruins
The Lelu
A SECOND HIKE THE FOLLOWING DAY, TO the top of Mount Oma, 1,555 feet above sea level, The Blue Hole
ON KOSRAE AND locals are only permitted to go to church, but tourists can quietly carry on their explorations. Deciding that some exercise is in order, we embark upon a gently hike of one-hour each way, toward the prehistoric Menke Ruins in the centre of the island. Menke is a religious archaeological site where islanders used to worship Singlaku, the goddess of breadfruit. Our affable local guide Salik is part of the family that owns the ruins and kindly cuts some walking sticks for us. As we gently climb, we eat crunchy mountain apples picked in the rainforest and drink fresh water from tree vines. And we learn about the three types of tropical ginger growing on Kosrae: one is used for cooking and wrapping, while the others are used for flavouring and shampooing/conditioning respectively. Eventually the hike reaches the Menke Ruins, the oldest on Kosrae. Because they predate the Lelu Ruins (and even Nan Madol on Pohnpei) the basalt columns that remain are mostly obscured by dense undergrowth. In any event, to pause at Menke and consider just how long humans have been living and thriving on this tiny island is awe-inspiring.
104 ISSUE 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022 which occupied this city, which history tells us enjoyed a unique relationship with the coral reefs, is unparalleled in modern day. Today, the Lelu Ruins are globally significant because they hold important information about the customs and structure of the ancient Kosraen people, preceding European SUNDAYScontact.ARESACRED
AFTER A DAY’S REST, CARLOS IS HIRED AGAIN, this time to take us kayaking through the uninhabited mangrove channels of Utwe-Walung Marine Park towards the ocean. En route we stop to snorkel the calm waters of Utwe's coral gardens, where we see various sponges, tropical fish and a massive conger eel. When we eventually reach the ocean, we swim out through the breakers to see incredible mushroom-like coral structures, in an assortment of vivid colours, growing up from the seabed.
SPENDING A WEEK LOST ON KOSRAE IS truly an ecotourist’s dream and the island’s attractions are sufficiently numerous and varied. Whether trekking through jungles, canoeing in mangroves, marveling at Neolithic ruins or diving pristine reefs, or simply doing nothing at all bar escaping from today's stressful world, this unspoilt Micronesian island wonder is nothing short of a jewellery box for travelling nature lovers. www.visitkosrae.com
ISLAND HOPPINGKOSRAE is a steep and fairly strenuous 4-hour climb. But at the summit we are rewarded with breathtaking vistas of the entire island and the Blue Hole. On the way down we wander around cool caves dug by the Japanese Army to protect them from American bombing during World War II, and swim under crystal clear waterfalls. A local botanist and guide, Carlos, who travelled from Puerto Rico to Kosrae with the Peace Corps 40 years earlier, married a local and never left, tells us about the local flora and fauna. He also helps us with the paperwork needed to hike the mountain. There’s almost always a fee involved to access private land on Kosrae and some fees can be pretty high.
LAKE ISEO ITALY EXPLORING THE PASTORAL, PREALPINE LANDSCAPES OF NORTHERN ITALY IN SEARCH OF LESSER-KNOWN LAKES, EMILY MILLETT FINDS A UNIQUELY UPSPOILT VALLEY STEEPED IN BUCOLIC CHARM italy’s lakesiderusticnewcomer 106 ISSUE 39 SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBER 2022
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M ost cultured travellers will be familiar with the popular destinations of Lake Como and neighbouring Lake Garda. Long established for their glitz and glamour, as well as their undeniably stunning landscapes, these two legendary lakes have held celebrated audiences captive for generations. But have you not heard about the smaller but equally alluring Lake Iseo? Tucked in between its limelight hogging siblings, this unspoilt secret beguiles with the rustic authenticity of a destination yet to be properly uncovered, hinting at hidden secrets that make its discovery all the more tempting.
Home to just over 100,000 inhabitants, the valley is one of the largest in the central Alps, spanning 90 kilometres from its highest height, more than 1,800 Castro
Numerous age-old traditions, customs and businesses live on through generations of fishermen, farmers, artisans, wine producers and village dwellers. With the well-preserved off-the-beaten track beauty of the area inherent to its allure.
AROUND AN HOUR’S DRIVE FROM MILAN and 40 minutes from Bergamo in the province of Brescia in eastern Lombardy, Lake Iseo is the basin concluding River Oglio’s journey from Ponte Di Legno, high in the Alps, down through the lush Camonica Valley. In this endlessly green gorge, the intrinsic bonds between a land and its people are still strong and palpable.
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metres above sea level in Passo Tonale. Val Camonica (as it is known locally) is characterised by rich landscapes of lakes, forests, glaciers and grasslands, all peppered with picturesque villages clinging to hillsides or lining lakeshores. Italy’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979, the area is also a unique biosphere reserve, teeming with natural and historical surprises. But despite the diversity and richness of this destination, its main allure is arguably Lake Iseo. For while the landscapes around the lake make visitors stop in their tracks and stare, it is the lake’s velvety emerald depths that instil a lasting sense of serenity and stillness in all who see it.
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Peschiera Maraglio
A LARGE PART OF THE PULL OF LAKE ISEO and the surrounding Camonica Valley are their untouched architecture and natural landscapes. This means that there is a noticeable lack of super luxe hotels lining the lake’s shores, which one would find in their dozens in Como and Garda.
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OF COURSE, IT’S NOT ALL PEACE, QUIET and La Dolce Vita in the valley! Daily life bustles around the lake, almost always married with an enchanting, laid-back element. And whilst many pretty villages of varying sizes adorn the lakeside, the jewel in the valley’s crown is surely the quaint commune of Monte Isola. Poised majestically in the heart of the lake, the floating atoll of Monte Isola is actually the largest lake island, not only in Italy, but in all of South and Central Europe. It is also one of the best places to stay while exploring the area, complete with 360° views of the lake from two sides of the island and a handy little network of ferry boats that acts as public transport, shuttling people around day and night. EUR 12 for a day pass, locals enjoy some of the most incredible lake views during their daily commute.Asthe ferry nears its destination, Monte Isola’s main harbour comes into view, leaving behind equally inspiring mainland vistas. Alighting the ferry at the fishing village of Peschiera Maraglio on Monte Isola is to step into an almost otherworldly place, steeped in rural appeal.
Overlooking the village rooftops towards the expanse of water beyond, from its perch above Peschiera Maraglio, Residence Castello Oldofredi is a stately and welcoming property housed within a fabled stone castle that echoes with the memories of its noble inhabitants. One of the best accommodation options on Monte Isola, its rooms, suites and apartments are dotted throughout the restored medieval building. All ooze unpretentious class. And like an eccentric artist’s grand summer pile, the entirety of this charming property radiates Renaissance Italian luxe. Soak up the tremendous vistas from the hotel’s pool that peeks out from behind the shade of olive groves. Or sit out on the grassy terrace beside the restaurant and enjoy the cool breezes with a chilled glass of vino, as the sun sets and the lights begin to twinkle across the inky stillness of the lake.
But what Lake Iseo lacks in five-star luxury is more than made-up by genuine, local hospitality and elegant, understated lodgings.
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www.oldofrediresidence.it
FROM CASTELLO OLDOFREDI, WINDING down the hillside from the hotel, steep, narrow lanes shade passers-by. All lead to the water’s edge, where fishing boats bump against each other in the gentle swell of the lake and strings of sardines dry in the sun. Decorative in their own picture-postcard way, these dried lake fish actually make up a staple part of the area’s unique culinary offering. The verdant landscape and region’s deep-rooted agricultural and fishing history make for some distinctive local variations of Italian cuisine. Characterised by simple, traditional fare based on old recipes that make the best use of seasonal fresh produce, the food served around Lake Iseo
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and throughout the valley is unfussy, comforting and deliciously authentic. Think fresh seafood, cured meats and local cheeses. The local pizzoccheri flavoured with mountain herbs, a classic dish of Lombardy, is simply divine.
FOR A LAKESIDE LUNCH THAT EMBODIES the simple charm that typifies the region, head around the island’s southern tip to the sleepy fishing village of Sensole and Trattoria del Sole. Exuding the laid-back Italianità that has delighted travellers to the country for time immemorial, this unpretentious eatery is all about long languid lunches enjoyed on the water’s edge. Here, al fresco dining under the dappled shade
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of olive trees is complemented by a humble yet mouth-watering menu of local delicacies. Start with a selection of antipasti and follow with the ravioli di pesce. And don’t miss the sardines marinated in agrodolce. (+39 030 9886101) For a more refined dining experience, Ristorante Albergo La Foresta is one of the best options in the area. Founded by two brothers (one a fisherman, the other a chef) this familyowned business serves polished Italian fare with a contemporary twist, making the best use of lake fish and local produce only. Be sure to sample the delectable fish roe, bottarga di lago, handmade by Chef Silvano. www.forestamontisola.it/ristorante.php
THE AREA IS ALSO MAKING A NAME FOR itself as one of Italy’s leading wine producing regions. Famed for its rising star, sparkling Franciacorta, a parcel of land between the southernmost shores of Lake Iseo and the foothills of Camonica Valley is designated as a DOCG. At the top of the wine label pyramid, the Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin certification is used to identify some of the most prestigious Italian wines, including Barolo and Amarone della Valpolicella. Distinguished by high-quality bubbles and produced in the same traditional méthode champenoise process used in the Champagne region of France, Franciacorta is more complex than Prosecco and delivers much of the finesse of its French counterpart, albeit with a much shorter history. Only some 20 million bottles of Franciacorta are produced annually, many of which are drunk in Italy. Taking advantage of the ideal climate for viticulture, more than 120 wineries are packed into the Franciacorta area, each producing wines with different characters. Located in Provaglio d’Iseo, Bersi Serlini is a small, family-run winery with a rich history that dates back to 1886. The ideal place for those who enjoy the interaction between wine and nature, it offers an intimate wine-tasting experience of its excellent vintages set within traditional 12th century stone buildings once used by Cluny monks. www.bersiserlini.it
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LAKE ISEO AND THE PRE-ALPINE CAMONICA Valley it calls home still have one foot proudly entrenched in the past while they amble into the future, tenderly enchanting visitors with tasty foods, fine wines and a warm welcome. Thankfully the bucolic rural landscapes, almost chocolate boxy in their beauty, have deftly preserved customs and cultures for a new generation of visitors to enjoy. Indeed, cultured travellers need look no further than this unspoiled quintessentially Italian lakeside destination to indulge in some of the finest things Italy has to offer.
SPOTLIGHTLAKEISEO DAY TRIPPING IN CAMONICA VALLEY IS ALSO a rich cultural experience. Dotted around the lake, mighty castles watch over pretty villages nestled into the same undulating curves and folds that also hide impressive historical rock engravings and thermal springs. One such spring is located near the Dezzo river at the mouth of Val di Scalve, around 40 kilometres from Monte Isolo. Set within a vast green park spanning more than 35,000 square metres, a visit to Angolo Terme spa provides a welcome sojourn from touring. Whilst the area’s therapeutic properties were only discovered in the 20th century, its unique microclimate and delightful surrounding nature have since made it a destination for locals and travellers in-the-know.
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117THE CULTURED TRAVELLER shekuKANNEH-MASON CATAPULTED TO GLOBAL FAME AFTER WINNING BBC YOUNG MUSICIAN AND PERFORMING AT THE WEDDING OF PRINCE HARRY AND MEGHAN MARKLE, THE CELEBRATED CELLIST HAS ALREADY BUILT A WORLDWIDE REPUTATION. THE 23-YEAR-OLD CHART-TOPPER TALKS TO THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ABOUT GROWING UP IN NOTTINGHAM AND RACE ISSUES WITHIN CLASSICAL MUSIC MUSICNIGHT&LIFE The Kanneh-Mason Family
Tell us a bit about growing-up in Nottingham. Nottingham has an amazing concert hall, which I would say is one of the best in the UK, and very cheap tickets for the under-18s meant that I could watch some of the best orchestras and enjoy worldclass classical music. To have been able to see and be
It was always a mixture of musical genres, from a young age. There was a lot of classical music, of course, plus a lot of reggae and 90s hip-hop. We also listened and often danced to Michael Jackson.
From a young age, my first teacher was very good at putting performance very much at the heart of what we did
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You were born into a very close-knit and musically orientated family. How did this impact your childhood?
Massively, because it felt like music was very much a natural part of my family life and something that we could share and enjoy together. And the combination of family and music meant that music always came from a place of enjoyment. When did you first touch and play a musical instrument? I started learning the piano when I was five or six. But we always had a piano at home, so I probably tinkled before then.
What kind of music were you exposed to as a youngster?
As a family, the Kanneh-Masons reached the semifinals of series 9 of Britain’s Got Talent. Did you enjoy it? It was a fun experience, very different to the anything I had done before and have done since. It was good to perform live on television and useful to understand everything that it entails. It took some getting used to, I have to say, but I learned a lot from appearing on Britain’s Got Talent.
For sure and all the time. Sometimes in small ways and sometimes in big ways. Growing up, it is difficult to see yourself doing something when no one who looks like you is also doing it. I remember going to a lot of concerts and being the only member of the audience who was black, apart from my family, and certainly not seeing black people on stage within classical music and in orchestras. Sadly, this is still very much the case today. So it was important to have had the support, help and encouragement of my family, friends and teachers, for which I am incredibly grateful. Without this support, it would have been even more difficult than it was.
When did you first perform as a solo cellist?
Coming from an immigrant family of colour, have you ever faced any issues of race within classical music?
What was the first landmark concert hall you played as a soloist?
From a young age, my first teacher was very good at putting performance very much at the heart of what we did. This actually makes a lot of sense, given that one of the most important ways to experience music is through performance. At the end of each term or each year, we’d have a class performance at which everyone played and saw everyone else play. It was really nice and inspiring to be a part of that. Of course, it meant that there was a sense of occasion and pressure on that performance. But the more I performed the more natural it became and the more comfortable it felt.
It’s a special feeling to be able to inspire others.
INTERVIEW exposed to very high-quality music in Nottingham, rather than having to have taken the train to London, which would have been expensive, was really important and valuable as I was growing up. Nottingham is also a very open and creative city, brimming with a variety of opportunities. I played a lot of football. I went to the theatre. And there is a unique sense of community and support in Nottingham. It’s nice coming from a smaller city and feeling that it supports you. Which artist most influenced young Sheku musically?
Have you been able to use your position, as a successful and well-known black musician, to help others?
Jacqueline du Pré had the biggest influence on me as a cellist and a musician. Bob Marley also influenced me. These two I’ve listened to most and have always returned to. What both have in common is a very direct commitment and honesty when it comes to music, which I think is very, very special.
In 2016, you were the first black musician to win the BBC Young Musician competition. How did this affect your career? This very much started my career, because it is a platform which a huge number of people watch. When you look at the classical music scene in the UK, much of it is shaped by winners of the BBC Young Musician competition. I grew up seeing and being inspired by people like Nicola Benedetti, Guy Johnston and Jennifer Pike. The competition undoubtedly has a huge influence on the shape of classical music within the UK. To have won that competition was very important and a turning point in my career.
I hope so. I think one of the most special feelings is performing a concert and afterwards meeting a young person who’s been inspired to take up the cello or become interested in classical music through seeing me perform.
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The Barbican Hall, which is one the country’s finest auditoriums. This is where the finals of BBC Young Musician were held. Performing at Barbican Hall was the first large concert venue in which I performed in a professional setting. It honestly felt amazing. There’s nothing that can really prepare you for playing in a such a large concert hall, other than actually playing in a concert hall that size. When I was younger, Nottingham’s Royal Concert Hall gave me some slots when I could spend a few hours practicing in the concert hall alone to get used to the feeling. This was very helpful, because most of the time I practiced in a small room which was often a tiny box. So the few sessions in the Royal Concert Hall were good preparation for Barbican Hall.
I have been very lucky to perform at many incredible venues around the world which have inspired me in different ways. Performing at the BBC Proms is always a special occasion.
I was very lucky to have been asked to perform at such an important and iconic occasion. And it was a fun day. A year or so before the wedding, being half Antiguan, I was invited to perform at an event, attended by Prince Harry, which supported a charity in Antigua. I have a lot of family in Antigua. A few months later, Meghan called and asked me to perform at their wedding. One of the most memorable parts of the day was the journey to the wedding. I was driven from my student house in London to St. George’s Chapel at Windsor Castle with police outriders in front and behind the car, which was cool!
You were the first cellist in history to reach the UK top 10 with your second album Elgar released in 2020, and you have won two Classical BRIT Awards. How does it feel to be breaking records at such a relatively young age? Everything has been happening to me at a relatively young age! I’m aware of the fact that this can be difficult for some young musicians to handle. But it has always felt natural to me, not least because of the people around me. I’ve always had an incredible team supporting me, in terms of great teachers, professional management and a supportive label. Do you ever have time to travel for pleasure?
You were 19 when you performed at Prince Harry and Meghan Markel’s wedding in 2018. How did you come to be booked for such a notable event?
The favourite country you have visited to date? Antigua. I love its beaches, the music, the weather and the food. Antigua is a place where I feel relaxed, free and open. Tell us a bit about your latest album, Song. Song is an honest and true representation of who I am as a musician today and embodies the many musical elements that make me the musician I am today, including jazz, folk, pop and classical music.
How do you kick-back and relax?
Your next big events? On 10th September I’m playing the Last Night of the Proms at the Royal Albert Hall. On 29th September 2022, I’m playing Haydn’s Cello Concerto No.1 in C and Cello Concerto No.2 in D, as well as pieces by Strauss and Ravel, at the Royal Festival Hall with the wonderful Philharmonia Orchestra. www.shekukannehmason.com
Any advice to young musicians starting out? Make the most of the fact that you can easily listen to almost anything that has ever been recorded. This is one of the things that I have always been most grateful for.
Two of the three pieces you played at the wedding were your recommendations. How did you choose them? They were pieces that I liked, I enjoy playing and felt appropriate for the occasion. Two of the pieces I had recorded in the past. The other piece I had been playing for a long time.
I quite literally kick back and relax! I don’t get a lot of free time, but when I do, I watch a lot of football and TV. The variety of content on offer at the moment, on streaming platforms like Netflix, is amazing.
Sheku with his sister Isata
Today you are in demand from renowned orchestras and concert halls worldwide. Tell us about your most memorable concert performance to date?
I have a hectic schedule crisscrossing the globe for concerts, but I try to make time to travel for pleasure too.
INTERVIEW I've always had an incredible supportivemanagementteachers,insupportingteamme,termsofgreatprofessionalandalabel ALIOLLIEIMAGE: 121THE CULTURED TRAVELLER
A SOHO INSTITUTION Since 1927 48 Greek Street Soho, London W1D 4EF Tel +44 (0) 20 7439 7474 info@lescargot.co.uk
TEKÉS ➤ PARIS, FRANCE VIENNA’S FOOD SCENE ➤ AUSTRIA BIBLIA CHORA ➤ KAVALA, GREECE Biblia Chora, Kavala, Greece IN THE EIGHTH ANNIVERSARY EDITION, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER VISITS RESTAURANTS IN PARIS AND VIENNA PLUS A RATHER SPECIAL WINERY IN NORTHERN GREECE
NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU DISCOVERS THAT THE COMING TOGETHER OF A HIGH-END FITNESS CLUB, A COCKTAIL BAR AND A VIBRANT ISRAELI VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT IS A PARISIAN LIFESTYLE MARRIAGE MADE IN HEAVEN
FROM ESCARGOTS to écrevisse, France is renowned for food and some of the world’s best restaurants are located in its capital. Not only is Paris a gourmand’s paradise, boasting bistros, brasseries, restaurants and fine dining to suit all tastes and budgets, but due to its longstanding association with food, the City of Lights is often the setting for highend restaurant débuts and the launchpad for exciting new culinary concepts. But when in Paris, it can sometimes feel like the French don’t cater as well as they could to vegetarians or those who don’t consume animal products. I am not one of them, but I do appreciate vegetarian cuisine and more and more of us have friends who don’t eat meat.
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Renowned for their use of butter in cooking and their predilection for meatbased dishes, relatively few French chefs, especially in Paris, are keen to cook vegetarian fare. And even fewer investors and restaurateurs are willing to support vegetarian restaurants, for fear of alienating a vast swathe of potential customers throughout their establishments. It is pretty obvious that there is still a high degree of vegaphobia in France, especially amongst older French chefs and dedicated carnivores. But times are changing in Paris, albeit somewhat slower than the rest of the culinary LITERALLYworld.JUST A HOP, SKIP AND a jump from bustling Les Halles and the Pompidou centre, Paris’ cheery pedestrianised Montorgueil district in the 2nd arrondissement has a remarkably village-like feel. Referred to as the belly of the capital in bygone
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Kussa days, for many centuries, Montorgueil fed Paris and a large chunk of France beyond, courtesy of wholesalers and retail merchants who sold every conceivable type of food.
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Now in the heart of Paris due to the expansion of the city, Montorgueil is home to one of Paris' permanent street markets, located on its main artery, Rue Montorgueil, which is also lined with a variety of food shops. A vibrant thoroughfare at the center of a thriving local community, walking along Rue Montorgueil can take one back to the bustling atmosphere of yesteryear Paris, especially in the early hours when delivery trucks abound. Indeed, a number of historic, die-hard local dining spots still exist in the area today. One of them, L’Escargot Montorgueil at number 38, was the favoured eatery of Marcel Proust and Salvador Dali and has been feeding generations of Parisians since 1832.
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OCCUPYING WHAT WAS ONCE AN old book warehouse and designed by architect Behar Cyril Durand, Klay is a members-only industrialchic gym offering a wealth of facilities to its members who pay handsomely for the privilege. The wet area in the basement, comprising a swimming pool, sauna, Turkish bath and jacuzzi, is particularly stunning. From Rue Saint-Sauveur, Klay is entered via an enclosed brick courtyard which is occupied by Tekés’ bar and some casual dining areas. Seemingly open-air but covered with a glass roof a few storeys up, the warm and inviting space is bathed in plenty of natural light and feels alfresco. Here, during the day, healthy food is served to-go together with freshly squeezed fruits and vegetables. At night, the space takes on a completely different personality, as funky music plays and the bar comes alive with mixologists. A place to meet gym buddies by day and friends by night for pre-dinner cocktails, the courtyard-cum-conservatory is an ingenious interlude between Klay and Tekés which works well.
T HE DAILY PRESENCE OF A BUSY market surrounded by a plethora of boucheries, fromageries and poissonneries tends to focus a French neighbourhood on eating and drinking and Montorgueil is no exception. In the streets around the market, a variety of new restaurants and bars have opened in recent years, mostly in Rue Bachaumont, Rue Greneta, Rue Saint-Sauveur and in the Passage du Grand Cerf. At number 4 Rue Saint-Sauveur, it was a chance meeting between the owner of a high-end gym, a group of restaurateurs and a famous chef which resulted in the opening of a rather special vegetarian restaurant earlier this THEyear.MARRIAGE OF A HIP FITNESS club, a vibrant restaurant and a cocktail bar may not seem like a natural one on paper. One is a place to lift weights, take classes and keep fit. The other is a place to eat, drink and be merry. In many ways they are at opposite ends of the fitness spectrum. But designer gym Klay and Israeli restaurant Tekés have come together beautifully in a gorgeous, renovated 19th century building in Montorgueil. So much so, that if it weren’t for the restaurant windows to the street and the subtle signage, you may very well walk past without noticing that Klay and Tekés are even there. But there they are and subtle they are not. Au contraire..
TEKÉS' SEPARATE STREET entrance leads to its main dining room, complete with a small bar-like open kitchen towards the front and an open main kitchen in the belly of the restaurant, presided over by head chef Cecile Levy and her team. A warm and earthy room punctuated by wood, Head chef Cecile Levy
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marble, blown glass and hammered metal, the restaurant’s décor tones perfectly with its architectural setting and provides an inviting space to enjoy the natural, vegetarian food served within its walls. Meanwhile the sounds and heat of the fires blazing in the kitchen warm the entire restaurant, welcoming guests from the moment theyUnpretentiouslyenter. fusing and creating culinary dialogue between East and West, Tekés is a natural gastronomic celebration promoting the tastes of Jerusalem, its modern vegetarian cuisine inspired by the legacy of past Israeli cooking techniques. The result is a lively, Levantine vegetarian restaurant like no other in France, run by vivacious, engaging and fun staff who contribute positively to every diner’s Tekés experience. For to dine at Tekés is to enjoy an experience, not simply a meal. This is perhaps unsurprising when one learns that the people behind Tekés are the same as the people behind Balagan, including Israeli Michelin-starred chef Assaf Granit, minus the l’Expérimental team. At the helm of the kitchen at Tekés, French born Cecile Levy learnt her craft at Lycée Hôtelier de Marseille before working in various top-end kitchens in Israel. She attracted the attention of Assaf Granit when she competed in the Israeli TV series Game of Chefs where he was her mentor. The rest, as they say, is history. Levy is visibly in command of her creative domain at Tekés, yet friendly and obviously completely in sync with her team. The food she produces is nothing short of moreish, every dish lovingly executed. The hummus I enjoy is quite possibly the best I’ve ever tasted and the mouthfuls of the feast that follow create pockets of silence between my dining companion and I, as the wealth of flavours sing together and entertain my tastebuds. Halfway through the meal, I declare that I have never tasted vegetarian fare so good anywhere. Yet we are in Paris. www.tekesrestaurant.com
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THE CULTURED TRAVELLER DISCOVERS THAT VIENNA’S THRIVING FOOD SCENE IS TEEMING WITH EXEMPLARY AUSTRIAN RESTAURANTS AND THOUGHTFULLY REIMAGINED VIENNESE FARE
Slap bang in the middle of Naschmarkt and run by an Israeli-Austrian family, NENI was born in 2009 at this location, serving tasty and moreish Israeli and Middle Eastern fare. The brainchild of matriarch Haya Molcho and her sons Nuriel, Elior, Nadiv and Ilan (NENI), the food is so good that the brand has since been exported across Europe, mainly into 25Hours hotels. There are now a dozen NENI restaurants on the continent.
For decades, Vienna’s food scene was largely traditional and uninspiring. Featuring little more than the global specialties which it made its own when it was the capital of the Habsburg Empire, if you had visited Vienna after the turn of the millennium, there was very little to write home about foodwise, apart from the odd Michelin-starred establishment serving over-fiddly food. But times have changed in the Austrian capital in the past 10 years and today the city’s food scene is alive and blossoming courtesy of a new generation of talented chefs striving to bring Vienna into the gastronomic 21st century. You only need drop anchor at NENI in Naschmarkt to feel the culinary bohemia.
In many ways, NENI was a catalyst of the food revolution in Vienna, nudging bohemian chefs to set out their stalls in the Austrian capital, and causing the city’s food scene to explode with new culinary concepts.
THE GRAND CAPITAL OF Austria has always been a bastion of tradition, history and elegance. Some would say that it is also shy and retiring. Granted, Vienna is not the most exciting of capitals and it is certainly not a party city. But almost everywhere you walk, the city impresses with its imposing buildings, lavish palaces, lush parks, allround grandeur and stately architecture. Indeed, some of its buildings are stop-you-inyour-tracks stunning.
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Today, visitors to the Austrian capital are gastronomically spoilt, for they can find almost every food trend within Vienna’s city limits, not least vegan, organic, foraged, farm-to-table, zero-waste and fermented. Not to mention re-imagined AustroHungarian fare.
To best appreciate the city's blossoming food scene of today, one should start a gastronomic break in Vienna by dining at a landmark venue which has been serving up top notch classic Viennese fare for almost 150 years: Café Landtmann.
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Some of the waiting staff are too rushed-off-their-feet for pleasantries. But others, such as Rudolf Lenzhofer, who presides over the historic dining room and has worked in the job for 27 years, make visiting Café Landtmann a uniquely enjoyable experience.
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LOCATED ON THE Ringstrasse in the inner first district, on a prominent corner at 4 Universitätsring opposite the Burgtheater, when Franz Landtmann opened this quintessential Viennese cafe in 1873, he essentially founded the city’s coffee house institution. Today the landmark restaurant, coffee house and pastry shop all rolled into one is a Viennese F&B institution. Café Landtmann is cosy, traditional, familiar and brimming with atmosphere from every pore, for while the outside world has changed in the past century and a half, its interior still retains an authentic old-world charm. A favoured haunt of Gustav Mahler, Sigmund Freud and Marlene Dietrich back in the day, today Café Landtmann is almost always packed and buzzing. It is a place where deals are done, businessmen meet, families get together, friends gather for lunch and tourists stop to snap pics for their social media. Many Viennese routinely drop in for a coffee and a piece of cake as they pore over the daily paper.
To get a feel for its classic, well-executed Austrian and Viennese cuisine, order some signature dishes, put them in the middle of the table and share. The traditional tafelspitz (braised beef in broth) and beef goulash are not to be missed. Round-off the meal with a selection of delectable pastries and decadent Mozart liqueur coffees. www. landtmann.at Rudolph Lenzhofer
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EPITOMISING THE CHARM of Vienna’s most historic hotel, Rote Bar is a mainstay of famed family-owned Hotel Sacher and is a glamorous champion of Austrian cuisine. Set within a gloriously decadent red room hung with period oil paintings and crystal chandeliers and an adjoining glass conservatory to the front of the hotel, directly opposite Vienna’s opera house, plush Rote Bar serves refined, traditional Austrian dishes and time honoured Viennese classics supremely well, with subtle contemporary touches. Consistently making the best use of the finest quality fresh produce sourced from local suppliers, every dish is exquisitely presented. The service is attentive, polite and cannot be faulted. And in the evenings, a pianist tinkles the ivories at a baby grand to complete the opulent tableaux. In many ways, Rote Bar is the bijou Rolls Royce of Austrian restaurants in Vienna. Start your meal with the goose liver tarte and follow with the Chateaubriand for two, and the quality of the beef tenderloin will render you speechless, as it did
A rich chocolate cake renowned globally as a gastronomic symbol of Austria, the nation’s most famous dessert, Sacher-Torte, was invented in 1832 at Hotel Sacher. Hence it would be criminal not to order a slice, served with whipped cream, to end your meal at Rote Bar on a sophisticated and sweet high. www. sacher.com
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EUGEN21
NAMED AFTER PRINCE Eugene Francis of Savoy, who was a Habsburg dynasty army field marshal during the 17th and 18th centuries and died in Vienna in 1736, Eugen21 is a modern Austrian tavern which imagines how the prince would have dined in the 21st century. It is located in the 10th district on the street level of funky lifestyle hotel Andaz Vienna Am Belvedere, which was designed by renowned architect Renzo Piano. A spacious, warm and unpretentious establishment, in keeping with its theme of a modern Austrian inn, the hearty fare produced by talented chef Richard Leitner and his team seeks to combine old traditions and contemporary gastronomy in a meaningful way. This it achieves admirably, making the best use of fresh vegetables the Austrian-Czech border, the pork is roasted with beer, apricot juice and vegetables. After roasting, the pork is then stewed. The resulting juice is lightly set with butter before serving. The result is undoubtedly one of the best roast dinners in all of Vienna. www. restaurant-eugen21.at and produce sourced from the surroundingComplimentedarea.by a wellpriced wine list, standout on the food menu is the restaurant’s signature roast pork dish which is unmissable when dining at Eugen21. Using prime organic meat from BOA farm in the Lower Austrian Weinviertel on BOA Pork Roast
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A true local experience for inspired cosmopolitans
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A SHORT WALK FROM Museumsplatz, lovingly designed Hotel Motto opened last year occupying a historic wedge-shaped 17th century building on Schadekgasse and Mariahilfer Strasse in the sixth district, giving guests and locals a slice of contemporary Viennese life married with 1920s Art Deco-era Paris in a different, vibey part of town. Crowning the hotel on the top floor is Chez Bernard, bedecked in greenery and bathed in light, which has already become something of a social hub for Viennese locals in-the-know, fashionistas and the city’s trendyPartlyset.contained within the original building and partly enclosed by a modern, angular extension which provides a stunning visual backdrop to the restaurant’s bar, Chez Bernard is a fashionable and happening place to have breakfast, grab a quick bite, indulge in a long lunch, sip a few cocktails or meet friends for dinner, with a funky musical soundtrack setting the stylish tone throughout the day and night.
Award-winning chef Markus Winkler is in charge of the kitchen, which dispenses well executed French-Austrian bistro classics with a distinctly Parisian feel, accompanied by exemplary breads courtesy of the hotel’s in-house bakery. A rather good wine list features a carefully curated selection of some of Austria’s finest organic and natural vintages. Order some Fine de Claire oysters to start (the shallot vinaigrette is excellent) followed by the restaurant’s signature bouillabaisse of cod, halibut, clams, crevettes and mussels. The coq au vin made with corn-fed chicken is a culinary triumph. For dessert, it’s worth waiting for Chez Bernard’s chocolate fondant, made with 70% Valrhona Chocolat Noir and served with homemade blackberry sorbet. www. chezbernard.at
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THE &BRASSERIEBANKBAR
LOCATED IN THE HEART of the first district on Am Hof Square, housed within the imposing former HQ of an Austrian bank, Park Hyatt Vienna is an elegant and stylish but unstuffy hotel. In the center of the hotel, accessed via the lobby or a dedicated entrance on Bognergasse, The Bank is the beating food and beverage heart of the property and is open pretty much all day andAnight.vastand grand yet welcoming space with soaring ceilings, since Park Hyatt Vienna opened in 2015, The Bank has become a meeting place for everyone from Viennese socialites and local businessmen to upscale tourists and designer shoppers who are attracted by consistently fine fare, superb cocktails, an impressive wine list and a great value plats du jour
Diners can even watch their meals being prepared by the restaurant’s talented Hungarian-born chef, István Törzsök at his chef’s table, or in a large open kitchen to one side of the sprawling room. Hand made with truffle, confit egg yolk and mustard caviar, The Bank’s beef tartare is one of the best in Vienna. Cooked on a lava stone grill, the prime Atterox Tomahawk steak for two is a showstopping main course, served with seared pimientos de padrón and a divine onion relish. To finish, order the Sour Cream Schmarrn, which is also known as Kaiserschmarrn . A classic Austrian dessert that's also popular in Bavaria, the dish resembles a fluffy pancake that’s cut into bite sized pieces and served with hay milk ice cream and a seasonal fruit compote. Scrummy. www. restaurant-thebank.com Chef István Törzsök Beef Tartare
3-course menu at EUR 74 for two, including a glass of champagneEfficientlyeach.managed by friendly Nadja Ibrahim, The Bank focuses on turning out reinterpreted brasserie classics as well as some updated Austrian dishes utilising sustainable, well-researched and locally sourced ingredients.
Wiener
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https://meisslundschadn.atJürgen Gschwendtner Schnitzel
SOMETHING OF A TEMPLE TO Wiener Schnitzel, Meissl & Schadn opened five years ago bearing an old and much-loved restaurant name dating back to the turn of the 20th century. Steeped in culinary history, the original Meissl & Schadn at 2 Neuer Markt opened in 1896 and burnt down in 1945 during the liberation of Vienna at the end of World War II. Since the storied name stands for everything that once made the city's gastronomy memorable in the minds of many Viennese, the new restaurant has been incredibly popular since it opened, not least for its open schnitzel show kitchen. Here, Austria's most famous dish is lovingly and traditionally prepared and pan fried to perfection, with an unswerving and constant commitment to quality. Cut from the finest quality veal, the cutlets are expertly pounded flat before being dredged in free-range eggs and covered in breadcrumbs from an artisanal bakery. After being fried to the perfect shade of golden brown, the schnitzels are presented with a choice of garnishes and sides and delivered to eager diners seated beneath a huge, glittering chandelier worthy of such a historicMadedish.with hand-stretched dough, the apple strudel is also delicious, so be sure to leave room for dessert. And for those keen to learn the secrets to cooking the perfect schnitzel, classes are held every Tuesday, helmed by the restaurant’s head chef Jürgen Gschwendtner, no less.
MEISSL SCHADN&
Saddle
and Marinatedblackberriessalmontrout with jalapeno cucumber broth Chef
APRON LOCATED IN THE THIRD district of Heumarkt pretty close to Vienna’s historic heart, APRON is a one Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant that skillfully serves modern Austrian cuisine in a contemporary and relaxed setting without being pretentious. This cannot be said for most of the Austrian capital’s somewhat stuffy Michelin starred establishments, which makes APRON standout and popular in Vienna. Devoid of airs and graces yet civilised and refined, APRON is helmed by Lower Austrian native and much lauded chef Stefan Speiser. Having won a Michelin star for his previous restaurant, Opus, Speiser has an established skill for bringing together the finest seasonal produce in his carefully considered dishes which are precisely executed and exquisitely presented, complete with regional references which firmly root them in Austria. Differing textures and contrasts add unusual accents to Speiser's food, making dining at APRON a fun experience. A semi-open kitchen also offers diners an insight into how their dishes are prepared before arriving at the table. www. restaurant-apron.at of venison with pick led beetroot SpeiserStefan
KIRCHGASSERLUKASIMAGE: KIRCHGASSERLUKASIMAGE:
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HAVING BEEN making it since around 2000 BC, wine has unsurprisingly been an integral part of Greek culture and society for centuries. And in the ancient world, Greece was one of the principal producers of wine. Yet despite the country’s rich wine heritage, modern Greek wines were often overlooked and underrated, until they relatively recently started winning awards. Lots of awards. We are not talking about retsina here, although young Greek producers are currently experimenting to offer a new generation of Greece's most famous wine. We are talking about Greek wines hailing from all corners of Greece and its stunning islands, that are so highly regarded today by seasoned sommeliers around the world, they appear on the lists of some of the finest restaurants on the planet. IN NORTHERN GREECE, 100 kilometres from its second city of Thessaloniki, known as the nation's gastronomic capital, burnt grape seeds dating back more than 6,000 years were found in the prehistoric settlement of Dikili Tash, near the archaeological site of Philippi. And nearby Kavala has been famous since antiquity for the cultivation and quality of its wines.
EXPERIENCE BIBLIA CHORA
SOUTHEAST OF SERRES AROUND 40 kilometres from Kavala, the little known Pangaion Hills mountain range is rich in flora, fauna, birdlife and butterflies and is characterised by significant biodiversity. Part of Mount Pangaion was declared a permanent wildlife refuge in 1979 and more than 700 plant species have been recorded in the area, including some that are not found anywhere else in Greece. The area is punctuated by picturesque mountain villages, a multitude of monasteries and impressive vegetation, beginning at the foot of the mountains with typical Mediterranean plants which slowly ➤ KAVALA, GREECE
NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU TRAVELS TO NORTHERN GREECE TO VISIT ONE OF THE COUNTRY’S GREATEST OENOLOGICAL TREASURES, THE WINERY OF BIBLIA CHORA EXPERIENCE
change, as the altitude increases, into dense forests of beech, fir, chestnut, plane and oak trees covering slopes and ITravines.ISHERE, IN THE COASTAL region of Pangaia within an unspoilt part of Greece, that Vassilis Tsaktsarlis and Vangelis Gerovassiliou set-up their winery in 1998, nestled in the foothills of the Pangaions, close to the sea. The winery takes its name from a sacred vine variety known as biblia ampelos, which was first cultivated in the area by the Phoenicians and from which the ancient Greeks produced a wine called Biblinos Oenos. According to the writings of Greek poets thousands of years ago, the region became famous for vine growing and was known throughout Ancient Greece as Biblia Chora.
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IT’S A RAINY AFTERNOON IN December, with grey skies overhead, when I arrive at modern-day Biblia Chora winery for a personal showaround and tasting. The imposing, purpose-built main building, which resembles a very large yet tasteful stately home, sits directly in front of striking Mount Pangaion. Vineyards surround the building, at an altitude of 380 metres above sea level, and my eyes are drawn towards the Aegean Sea in the distance, to the front of theSeaestate.breezes from the Strymonic Gulf blow upwards towards Biblia Chora, Ktima Biblia Chora
Vassilis Tsaktsarlis and Vangelis Gerovassiliou
ALTHOUGH 16 YEARS APART IN age, Gerovassiliou and Tsaktsarlis both grew up in Epanomi and attended the University of Thessaloniki followed by the University of Bordeaux.
Tsaktsarlis also studied oenology in Bordeaux, under Denis Dubourdieu and Pascal Ribereau-Gayon, returning
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providing a Mediterranean climate by day, a continental climate by night, hot summers and mild winters. The region is also renowned for plenty of wind and cold nights, its wide diurnal range encouraging the slow maturing of grapes in a more balanced way. It was given Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status in 1995. The very stony, flinty soil with loam and clay give Biblia Chora’s wines their firm backbone, fresh natural acidity, good tannin structure and noble finishes.
BIBLIA CHORA WELCOMES EVERY day, by appointment, almost anyone to its estate who has a love for Greek wine. I’m a great fan of this ‘by appointment' philosophy, not least because a few of the vineyards that I used to enjoy visiting are now sometimes over-run by smartphone-wielding tourists with little knowledge of oenology.
Gerovassiliou studied in Bordeaux under Emile Peynaud before returning to Greece in 1976 to work as oenologist at Porto Carras. In 1981, he established Ktima Gerovassiliou in Epanomi. Four decades later, it is probably the most famous Greek winery for all the right reasons.
I AM WARMLY MET BY CHRYSANTHI Economidou and my personal tour begins, firstly of the wine-production area and fermentation hall, followed by the bottling line, which is in full swing during my visit. We talk about the criteria for the organic cultivation of wines and the various varieties produced at the winery, including wines produced from an uncategorised Greek grape variety, discovered by Tsaktsarlis in 2002 in an old vineyard set on a rough part of Mount Pangaion, outside the estate. The story surrounding the discovery of this grape, and Biblia Chora’s efforts to showcase and produce high-quality wines from it, are fascinating stuff and testament to Tsaktsarlis’ intense passion for his craft.
in the summer months to work at Ktima Gerovassiliou. After graduating at the top of his class in Bordeaux in 1992, Tsaktsarlis began working as oenologist at Domaine Costas Lazaridis in Drama. Soon he noticed the potential of grapes from Kavala. Together, Tsaktsarlis and Gerovassiliou planted the first 7 hectares of Ktima Biblia Chora’s vines in 1998 and their first wines were vinified in 2001. Now covering approximately 65 hectares, Biblia Chora was designed from the get-go to be an organic winery, combining their immense love for wine and winemaking knowledge. Their philosophy is to produce excellent wines which exhibit the unique characteristics of the area’s terroir and Pangaia’s ecosystem. To achieve this goal, all cultivation and vinification techniques are applied with special care, combining their knowledge and experience alongside winemaking traditions and modern technology. All vineyard work at Biblia Chora, including grape picking and leaf thinning, is done by hand.
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Before long, we move downstairs to the bottle maturation rooms and impressive underground cellars and my tour ends in the wine tasting room where informality is key. Despite first impressions, Biblia Chora is not a stuffy or pretentious winery, which makes the enjoyment of visiting all the more pleasurable. The wine tasting takes place at a large bar, which dominates one corner of the huge, but not over-done space.
I CANNOT BE SURE, BUT I BELIEVE that I taste some 16 wines before we are joined by hospitable Tsaktsarlis, who breaks out some incredible old red vintages which are spectacular in their depth. Of all the wines I taste, the ones than most impress (me) are unoaked white blend Sole Vidiano, its skillful marriage of Cretan Vidiano (92%) and 8% Assyrtiko creating a remarkable full-flavoured freshness that’s rich on the palate. And one of Biblia Chora’s most recognised wines, Ovilos red, which has won countless awards, not only in Greece but internationally. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and aged for 16 months in new French oak barrels, staying in the bottle for two years before release, this rich, complex and full-bodied red is an enduring showstopper.Awinewhich surprises me (and I have since ordered in restaurants) is fresh, new-world South Africanstyle Sole Pinot Noir. Delicate, dry, sophisticated and summery on the palate, this wine delights on all levels.
LASTLY, I TASTE RED BIBLINOS Oenos, made from the uncategorised Greek grape discovered by Tsaktsarlis on Mount Pangaion. Elegant with a divine, spicy nose of cassis, pomegranate and other dark fruits, Biblinos Oenos boasts a unique depth. Convinced that this wine will age beautifully, I vow to return to Biblia Chora and the beautiful Pangaions next year to sample the same wine again.
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https://bibliachora.gr/en
LITTLE BLACK BOOK WEB ADDRESSES FOR EVERY DESTINATION AND VENUE MENTIONED IN THE EIGHTH ANNIVERSARY EDITION OF THE CULTURED TRAVELLER MAGAZINE A AL AZHAR PARK ➤ www.azharpark.com AL MASAR GALLERY ➤ AMANwww.almasargallery.comNEWYORK ➤ ANGOLOwww.amannewyork.comTERMESPA ➤ ANIMASYROShttps://termediangolo.it ➤ APRONwww.animasyros.gr ➤ ARAMNESSwww.restaurant-apron.atGIR ➤ www.aramness.com B BERSI SERLINI ➤ BIBLIAwww.bersiserlini.itCHORA ➤ https://bibliachora.gr/en BFI LONDON FILM FESTIVAL ➤ BORGOwww.bfi.org.uk/lffSANTANDREA ➤ BRAEMARborgosantandrea.itGATHERING ➤ BRITISHwww.braemargathering.orgAIRWAYS ➤ www.britishairways.com C CAFÉ LANDTMANN ➤ CAIROwww.landtmann.atOPERA ➤ CAMONICAwww.cairoopera.orgVALLEY ➤ CHEZwww.bresciatourism.it/enBERNARD ➤ CITADELwww.chezbernard.atOFSALADIN ➤ COPTIChttps://egymonuments.gov.egCAIRO ➤ www.coptic-cairo.com D DIWAN BOOKSTORE ➤ DUKE'Swww.diwanegypt.comCAMP ➤ www.naturalselection.travel E EGYPTIAN MUSEUM ➤ EUGEN21https://egymonuments.gov.eg ➤ www.restaurant-eugen21.at F FINNAIR ➤ FRANKFURTwww.finnair.comBOOKFAIR ➤ www.buchmesse.de G GRANITA CAIRO ➤ business.sitehttps://granita-cairo. H HABITAS BACALAR ➤ HACIENDAwww.ourhabitas.comALTAGRACIA ➤ AIRPORTHAMADwww.aubergeresorts.comINTERNATIONAL ➤ HENLEYhttps://dohahamadairport.com&PARTNERS ➤ www.henleyglobal.com J JAZZFEST BERLIN ➤ www.berlinerfestspiele.de L LAKE ISEO ➤ www.bresciatourism.it/en M MEISSL & SCHADN ➤ ART,MUSEUMhttps://meisslundschadn.atOFISLAMICCAIRO ➤ https://egymonuments.gov.eg N NATIONAL MUSEUM OF EGYPTIAN CIVILIZATION ➤ &NEWwww.nmec.gov.egYORKCITYWINEFOODFESTIVAL ➤ www.nycwff.org O OKTOBERFEST ➤ ONAMwww.oktoberfest.de/en ➤ www.onamfestival.org ON RESIDENCE ➤ www.onresidence.gr P PACIFIC TREELODGE RESORT ➤ PALÁCIOwww.kosraetreelodge.comLUDOVICE ➤ PAULwww.palacioludovice.comVANDYK ➤ PLAYwww.paulvandyk.com ➤ www.flyplay.com R RAFFLES SINGAPORE ➤ RAFFLESwww.raffles.com/singaporeUDAIPUR ➤ REGATAwww.raffles.com/udaipurSTORICADIVENEZIA ➤ OLDOFREDIRESIDENCEwww.regatastoricavenezia.it/enCASTELLO ➤ RESTAURANTwww.oldofrediresidence.itROTEBAR ➤ LARISTORANTEwww.sacher.comALBERGOFORESTA ➤ www.forestamontisola.it S SHEKU KANNEH-MASON ➤ SHINTAwww.shekukannehmason.comMANIWILD ➤ https://shintamani.com SIX SENSES FORT BARWARA ➤ SOLOwww.sixsenses.comSOKOSHOTELTORNI ➤ STRAWBERRYwww.sokoshotels.fi/enFIELDS ➤ www.strawberry-fields.com.au T TEKÉS ➤ TERESAwww.tekesrestaurant.comHELBIG ➤ THEhttps://teresahelbig.comBANKBRASSERIE&BAR ➤ THEwww.restaurant-thebank.comNILERITZ-CARLTONHOTEL ➤ THEwww.ritzcarlton.comSTANDARD,IBIZA ➤ THEwww.standardhotels.comWELL ➤ THEwww.the-well.comWOODWARD ➤ www.oetkercollection.com V VILLAGE HALLOWEEN PARADE ➤ VIRGINwww.halloween-nyc.comATLANTIC ➤ VISITwww.virginatlantic.comKOSRAE ➤ www.visitkosrae.com W WOLFGANG PUCK ➤ https://wolfgangpuck.com Z ZAMALEK GALLERY ➤ ZÖÖBAzamalekartgallery.com ➤ www.zoobaeats.com INDEX THE CULTURED TRAVELLER 145
ARRIVING After a long flight, I put on a fresh, grey marl t-shirt before landing, brush my teeth, apply some eye gel and freshen my face with whatever moisturiser is handy. I also have a little spritz of my favourite scent - Aoud Crystal by Roja Dove. His 7.5ml ‘Discovery Atomisers’ are perfect for travelling. ➤ https://rojaparfums.com
TRAVEL ADDICT, FLYER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF OF THE CULTURED TRAVELLER , NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU SHARES HIS SECRETS FOR SURVIVING HIS HECTIC LIFE OF PRESS TRIPS AND GLOBETROTTING chrisostomounicholas
TRAVEL TIPS FROM
SKINCARE I swear by Body Shop’s Elderflower Eye Gel - I’ve been using it for years. The same goes for Carmex for my lips. Luckily I don’t need to be prissy about the moisturisers I use on my face, but if I had to choose one, it would be A.D.C. 01 created by make-up artist Adam de Cruz. It feels amazing on my skin. ➤ www.adcbeauty.com
LONG-HAUL On recent flights to Asia, I changed into a pair of PJ bottoms and a long-sleeved t-shirt both by British Boxers ➤ https://british-boxers.com . I love their quality. Changing clothes on long flights is a must for me. I also put on some comfy cashmere socks. And I almost always have a large, shawllike lightweight batik scarf by Arizali in my carry-on, which is multi-purpose.
IN-FLIGHT If I’m not working on my laptop, I try to relax on a flight, because organised chaos usually ensues once I reach a destination for work and I literally don’t stop if I’m on a press trip. I treasure my quiet and personal time on a plane and I generally avoid connecting to in-flight wi-fi.
MUSIC I literally cannot be without music morning, noon and night, especially on a plane, so I travel with JBL Under Armour Flash X in-the-ear headphones, which are great for sound. The case is a little clunky but it provides dozens of hours of playtime. I also carry a pair of Apple AirPods which are the best for having a conversation.
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CARRY-ON I like the flexibility of a leather holdall and a small, separate laptop bag. Both will usually fit under a seat, which means they’re close to me during a flight and I can retrieve bits and bobs easily. I very rarely put anything in overhead bins.
SEASONED
LUGGAGE I’m not a fan of expensive luggage, because if you travel as much as I do, it’s bound to get bashed or damaged, and pulling a dented new Rimowa off a luggage carousel is not a happy start to anyone’s trip. Having had too many suitcases destroyed by airlines or baggage handlers, I am currently travelling with a hard-sided Samsonite which has lasted almost three years and is still going. It’s not the sexiest of cases, but it’s bloody tough, and it also does a good job of protecting bottles, which is handy when bringing home a gin from overseas!
PACKING I have duplicates of everything important (electric toothbrush, toiletries bag, vitamins, charging cables, etc.) so when it comes to packing for a trip, the basics are already in my case and I’m never without my essentials when I reach a destination.
Löyly, an architectural sauna and restaurant in the heart of Helsinki, was named one of the World’s 100 Greatest Places by Time Magazine. Follow us @loylyhelsinki
ENJOY WINTER, HE L SINKI STYLE.
