The Cultured Traveller, March-May 2023 Issue 41

A CITY OASIS

Shangri-La Colombo; your tropical sanctuary in the heart of the city. Nestled in the heart of Colombo’s business and entertainment district; Shangri-La Colombo offers luxurious living for those seeking either short or long terms stays in the city’s most exclusive neighbourhood. Elegantly appointed accommodation reflect the perfect balance between vibrant Asian hues and contemporary design complemented by an uncompromising selection of stylish dining venues celebrating exquisite culinary flavours.

1, Galle Face, Colombo 2, Sri Lanka | www.shangri-la.com

An enchanted village, with surrounding vineyards and olive trees and the serenade of the South of France’s eternal cicadas. Deep in the Provençal hills, five-star nights tinged with the heady fragrance of lavender and pine. Relish the balmy Mediterranean breeze whispering across your skin, treat your taste-buds to flavour at its finest, and step into a dream world enclosed within the sun-baked walls of a luxury hotel and spa in Provence.

A short distance from Cascais, the Cabo Da Roca monument marks the westernmost point of mainland Europe

44 THE PORTUGUESE ELITE’S SEASIDE PLAYGROUND

Offering an elegant taste of the best that Portugal has to offer in one perfectly formed package, complete with an abundance of sandy beaches and natural scenery, Nicholas Chrisostomou explores the stylish seaside city of CASCAIS, just half-an-hour from Lisbon.

132 REBEL WITHOUT A PAUSE

In a career which spanned six decades, VIVIENNE WESTWOOD reshaped British culture. From godmother of punk to queen of the Paris catwalks, her designs were always provocative, often outlandish, sometimes ridiculed but never boring. Paul Burston looks back at the career of a true British eccentric and a woman who lived by her own rules right up until her death.

98 WELLNESS AND NATURE UNITE IN AUSTRIA’S TYROL

The seamless equilibrium between nature and wellness is profoundly palpable in AUSTRIA’S TYROL, where Emily Millett finds that the picture-postcard Thiersee Valley offers the perfect place to escape, inspire and restore.

112 THE MOTHER CITY’S BOOMING RESTAURANT SCENE

With the Cape Winelands on its doorstep, surrounded by fertile farmlands and pounded by the Atlantic Ocean, it is perhaps unsurprising that Cape Town's restaurant scene is constantly buzzing with innovation, passion and originality. The Cultured Traveller team visits today’s standout restaurants in the Mother City.

42 WIN A FOUR-NIGHT STAY ON THE PORTUGUESE RIVIERA

HOTEL BAÍA was built six decades ago when Cascais was a fishing village. Today Cascais is a chic seaside city and Hotel Baía is positioned at the very heart of it. Spend four nights enjoying everything that Cascais has to offer in a sea-view room, including halfboard for two people.

CONTENTS

8 CONTRIBUTORS

10 EDITOR’S LETTER

12 NEWSFLASH

Throughout the year, on almost every day of every month, something fascinating or fun is happening somewhere in the world, be it a cultural event, a music festival or an unusual celebration. During the coming months, the largest tourism trade fair on the planet, ITB BERLIN, will showcase destinations in more than 150 countries; WARNER BROTHERS PICTURES will celebrate its centenary in Hollywood; two churches 400 metres apart on the Greek island of Chios will fire thousands of fireworks at each other during ROUKETOPOLEMOS; 6th May 2023 will officially mark the beginning of a new era for the British monarchy, when the St. Edward’s Crown is placed on KING CHARLES III’s head by the Archbishop of Canterbury; the

67th edition of the EUROVISION SONG CONTEST will be held in Liverpool; the historic Spanish city of Girona’s buildings, courtyards and monuments will be bedecked in spectacular floral displays, and the Spanish ‘King of Clay’, Rafael Nadal, will defend his French Open title at ROLAND-GARROS.

26 REST YOUR HEAD

From a biosphere reserve in Mexico to Al-‘Ula’s Ashar Valley, The Cultured Traveller team checks out a dozen new properties around the world, including the first cliffside property in the Turks and Caicos, ROCK HOUSE, which was six years in the making and occupies a five-hectare oceanfront site tucked into the rugged, untouched limestone cliffs of Providenciales’ north shore; the majestic new FAIRMONT TAZI PALACE, set within a lush and sprawling hillside site overlooking the ‘White City’ of Tangier; the SLS lifestyle brand’s maiden South American property, SLS PUERTO MADERO, located in Buenos Aires’ shiniest new district, and HÔTEL BARRIÈRE FOUQUET’S NEW YORK, which is the family-run French luxury brand’s

first property in the States, and deftly combines the charm of Parisian life with TriBeCa's distinctly laid-back vibe.

60 IN CONVERSATION WITH

The London-based author of a dozen books and founding host of award-winning LGBTQ+ literary salon Polari at the British Library, PAUL BURSTON, chats to The Cultured Traveller about his early life, growing-up as an activist, his new memoir out this summer and meeting his hero, David Bowie.

64 SUITE ENVY

At one of the world’s most famous hotels, Nicholas Chrisostomou road tests a new Champalimaud-designed ROYAL SUITE at EMIRATES PALACE, which quietly oozes Asian opulence and sophistication from every corner of its 280 square metres.

74 SPOTLIGHT

Since Finland has been repeatedly named the HAPPIEST COUNTRY ON THE PLANET, Nicholas Chrisostomou sets out to find out why the Finns are so happy.

88 TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

Famous for shiva and silk, Kevin Pilley experiences something of a cultural overload in the ancient north Indian city

of VARANASI, amidst an unforgettable atmosphere of pilgrimage, death, cremation and thanksgiving.

123 TASTE & SIP EXPERIENCE

Nicholas Chrisostomou meets a couple of former high-flying London lawyers, whose HOPE DISTILLERY is today at the forefront of the gin craze in the cosmopolitan city of Cape Town.

126 TASTE & SIP INTERVIEW

Iraqi-Lebanese-Swiss chef HUSSEIN HADID, who has cooked for everyone from his aunty Zaha Hadid to Madonna and Pavarotti, chats to Kelly Haddad about his family heritage, his Middle Eastern roots and a culinary journey spanning three decades and multiple continents.

141 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Web addresses for everywhere featured in issue 41 of The Cultured Traveller.

142 SUITE WITH A VIEW

A hospitality union of two of France’s most iconic design names – Jean Nouvel and Philippe Starck – the suites on new Parisian TOO hotel’s highest floors boast sweeping, panoramic views of the City of Lights.

PAUL BURSTON

➤ FASHION ICON - VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

Paul Burston is a critically-acclaimed writer and journalist. When he’s not penning a novel or hosting his Polari literary salon, you will find him at the theatre or bingeing box sets in London, relaxing in Hastings or visiting friends and swimming in sunny Sitges.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

PUBLISHER COCO LATTÉ

DESIGN TAHIR IQBAL

EDITORIAL JEMIMA THOMPSON, LISA WEYMAN

ADVERTISING JEREMY GORING

RETOUCHING STELLA ALEVIZAKI

THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS

Kevin Pilley, Paul Burston, Emily Millett

Kelly Haddad, Howard Healy

WITH THANKS TO Twysden Moore, Jasper Pääkkönen, Katja Pantzar Helsinki Partners, Cascais Visitors & Convention Bureau

The Cultured Traveller is published by Coco Latté

Advertising and sponsorship enquiries: ads@theculturedtraveller.com

KELLY HADDAD

➤ TASTE & SIP INTERVIEW - HUSSEIN HADID

Born in NYC and raised between the States and Qatar by Lebanese parents, Kelly grew up crossculturally, travelling often, experiencing international cuisines and connecting with people from all over the world. Her deep interest in the arts, food and culture continually drive her to embark on a variety of creative endeavours, including painting, writing and empowering creators to realise visions of their own.

Editorial enquiries words@the culturedtraveller.com Subscription enquiries subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

➤ ISSUE 41

© 2023 Coco Latté. All rights reserved

Reproduction in part or in whole of any part of this magazine is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of its respective contributors and writers and are not necessarily shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff.

The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles, photographs or other materials submitted.

Download the digital edition of issue 41 of The Cultured Traveller magazine at ➤ www.issuu.com/theculturedtraveller/docs/ 41

EMILY MILLETT

➤ WELLNESS - AUSTRIAN TYROL

Born into a family of avid world travellers, Emily has had a nomadic spirit for as long as she can remember. Former editor of TTG MENA Luxury and now a travel writer, Emily contributes to a number of in-flight magazines and high-end publications from her bases in London and Nicosia.

Follow The Cultured Traveller on @theculturedtraveller @culturedtraveller

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

COCO LATTÉ

5 MERCHANT SQUARE

LONDON W2 1AY UK

Elevated Style

I WAS RECENTLY reminded that the best stays are not always in the plushest hotels and I’m embarrassed to say that it came as something of a surprise. I obviously realise that I’m incredibly lucky to stay in some rather fine hospitality establishments. But because five-star comforts have become de rigueur for so many of us, it didn’t occur to me that I could enjoy a lesser starred stay quite as much.

Whilst doing a recce of a lesser known destination, to possibly feature it in a future issue of The Cultured Traveller, I hadn’t paid as much attention as usual to the hotel where I was staying. The small hotel, which bestowed on me such a standout experience, had forty rooms and one suite, the latter being smaller than an entry-level room at a premium five-star. Yet the manners, thoughtfulness and genuine warmth demonstrated by the staff left me raving about my stay, far more than I had after checkingout of some considerably more pricey hotels. Like always, the devil was in the details. But occasionally we all need reminding that the details don’t need to be designer.

I have since shared this story with hotel owners, general managers and friends alike. For it is not necessarily about how much you spend –it is where and how you choose to spend it. And during this period of higher flight prices, I am confident that The Cultured Traveller can help you select the perfect destinations and decide where to rest your heads more wisely.

In this issue, we feature destinations in Europe, the Middle East, India and Africa, which happily shows the distances we are comfortable travelling again.

The hills really are alive when Emily Millett takes a wellness break in the Austrian Tyrol and enjoys an ayurvedic immersion surrounded by picture-postcard scenery ( page 98). First time contributor Kevin Pilley visits one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on the planet, experiencing something of a cultural overload in ancient Varanasi in North India (page 88). Our team of hungry foodies roadtests a host of standout eateries in Cape Town, to provide a definitive guide to the Mother City’s best restaurants (page 112). Paul Burston looks back at the colourful career of the godmother of punk, Vivienne Westwood, who lived by her own rules right up until her death (page 132). And since there’s no such thing as being too happy, I set out to discover what exactly makes the Finns such contented people, after their country topped the 2022 World Happiness Index for the fifth consecutive year (page 74)

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief

From left to right: Austrian Tyrol; Helsinki; The Pot Luck Club, Cape Town; Varanasi

news

CULTURAL EXPERIENCES, STANDOUT FESTIVALS AND GLOBAL EVENTS

TAKING PLACE ON OUR PLANET IN THE COMING MONTHS

ITB BERLIN

F1 BAHRAIN GRAND PRIX

A MAINSTAY OF THE F1 calendar, 2023 will be the fifth time that the Bahrain International Circuit will host the opening race of the Grand Prix season. The first opportunity for fans to catch a glimpse of this year’s new supercars, the atmospheric night-time 57-lap race is held at Bahrain’s 5.4-kilometre Grand Prix Track designed by German architect Hermann Tilke, who also designed the Sepang International Circuit in Malaysia. Fans can usually expect great racing and decent

amounts of overtaking in Bahrain, where the drivers have to contend with wind, racing under floodlights and the difficulty of finding a decent set-up within the wide temperature fluctuations between sessions. The track’s most challenging point is the tight, downhill off-camber Turn 10 left-hander. Meanwhile the fast run through Turn 12 is another highlight, allowing drivers to really feel their cars coming alive.

5 March 2023

www.bahraingp.com

NOW THAT THE WORLD is travelling again, the planet’s largest tourism trade fair could be just the ticket to get inspired for your next cultured travelling experience! ITB Berlin is billed as a trip around the globe in a few hours and an opportunity to explore destinations in more than 150 countries. With thousands of exhibitors, ITB can be a bit of a nightmare to navigate, but thankfully it’s made easier by the fair being divided into regions and thematic sections, including responsible tourism, business travel, cultural tourism, adventure travel, medical tourism, travel technology and LGBT+ travel. A map of the exhibition is helpfully available online so that visitors can plan what to see before arriving. This mammoth event often has surprises around every corner, so expect everything from flamenco dancing to henna hand-painting, massages to cooking demonstrations and dance music to folk dancing. For travel industry professionals there are also press conferences, talks, product presentations and networking events.

7-9 March 2023

www.itb-berlin.de

LAS FALLAS

THIS NOISY, EXUBERANT celebration, which involves masses of fireworks and the burning of giant puppets, unsurprisingly attracts people from around the world to the port city of València, which lies on Spain’s southeastern coast. Held in honour of St. Joseph’s Day on 19th March, Las Fallas is believed to have originated in a pagan celebration of the spring equinox and is first recorded as having been held in the late 15th century. Each neighbourhood

HOLI

MARKING THE beginning of spring in India, this ancient Hindu ritual is essentially a two-day celebration of the triumph of good over evil. Also known as the ‘Festival of Colours’ due to the bright powder participants throw at each other, the proceedings begin with the lighting of Holika bonfires, symbolising how the god Vishnu helped burn the devil Holika, according to Hindu scriptures. The following day, Rangwali Holi is when people delight in covering their neighbours in water and a rainbow of gulal , or paint powder. Apparently, Lord Krishna, a reincarnation of Lord Vishnu, liked to prank village girls in this fashion. While Holi is observed throughout the world, the best places to experience this festival are undoubtedly India and Nepal, especially Delhi, Varanasi, Vrindavan and Jaipur.

8 March 2023

www.incredibleindia.org

in València funds the construction of its own falla – the wood and papier-mâché sculptures at the heart of the fiesta, which are often 15 metres tall and poke fun at local and international politicians and celebrities. The fallas are placed at key points around the city, so that visitors can wander around and check them out before they are burned on night of the final day, accompanied by stacks of fireworks.

15-19 March 2023

www.visitvalencia.com

ST. PATRICK’S DAY

An official Christian feast day since the early 17th century, St. Patrick’s Day is held to commemorate Ireland’s patron saint and the arrival of Christianity. In Dublin, a public holiday is the climax of a four-day party of street parades, festivals, concerts and carousing. 17 March 2023

TAGATA HŌNEN MATSURI

IN JAPANESE, HŌNEN means ‘prosperous year’ implying a rich harvest and a matsuri is a festival. Held annually at the Tagata Shrine in the city of Komaki, just north of Nagoya in Aichi Prefecture, Hōnen Matsuri is essentially a fertility festival marked every year on 15th March and watched by worshippers of all ages. The Tagata Shrine is thought to date back 1,500 years and houses a female kami (or ‘god’) which embodies fertility and renewal. The grounds are strewn with phallic-shaped rocks set tastefully amongst shady bushes and trees, whilst the shrine itself contains a selection of wooden members of varying sizes. The festival's main event centres on a somewhat lively procession of a two-metre wooden phallus, known as O-owasegata , which is carved annually from white cedar, housed in a mikoshi (portable shrine) and carried to the main shrine on the shoulders of a group of men aged 42. Throughout the procession, sake is freely distributed by cheerful volunteers in close proximity to the main attraction, so it’s wise to walk a good few metres away of the giant phallus if attending this festival!

15 March 2023

WARNER BROTHERS CENTENARY

ON 4TH APRIL 1923 , four brothers, Harry, Albert, Sam and Jack Warner founded Warner Brothers Pictures in Hollywood, California. Harry, the eldest of the brothers, was the company’s president and ran its headquarters in New York City, while Albert was the treasurer and head of sales and distribution. Sam and Jack ran the Hollywood studio. The company established itself as a leader in the American film industry before diversifying into animation, television and video games. Over the past century, Warner Bros. has created some of the

world’s most recognisable and beloved films, TV shows and characters ever made. Amongst the studio’s centennial celebrations are a three-part documentary about the history of Warner Bros.; programming marathons and special episodes are being shown across the company’s domestic and international networks; Turner Classic Movies is focusing on Warner Bros. titles throughout 2023, and Warner Bros. Home Entertainment is releasing a series of film and TV bundles on digital and home media.

4 April 2023 www.warnerbros.com

SNOWBOMBING

TRADITIONALLY HELD towards the end of the annual European ski season and often referred to as the ‘Glastonbury of mountain gatherings’, Snowbombing takes place in the stunning Austrian resort of Mayrhofen in the heart of the Tirol. Boasting breathtaking mountain scenery of the Zillertaler Alps, days are spent skiing, boarding, enjoying music in mountain-top locales, feasting on sumptuous spreads and relaxing in saunas and spas. Nights herald a completely different

ROUKETOPOLEMOS

IT IS IMPLAUSIBLE TO believe that on an idyllic Greek island, one of the most important dates in the Christian calendar is marked in a rather crazy fashion. But this is the case on Chios. On the island’s eastern end, in the small town of Vrontados, many of the residents are ship owners or shipbuilders and legend has it that Christopher Columbus spent time here to learn how to use maritime charts. Other folklore relates that the Greek poet Homer was born or lived near Vrontados. In any event, amidst the olive trees and almond groves of this breezy seaside village are the churches of St. Mark's

and Panaghia Ereithiani, built on hilltops around 400 metres apart. Like many proximate parishes around the world, there is a little rivalry between these two houses of worship and their respective congregations. But on Chios this is settled once a year with a rocket war on the night before Greek Easter Sunday, throughout which, as literally thousands of fireworks are being shot between the two, congregants go to church. The origin of Rouketopolemos is unclear, but it apparently dates back to the Ottoman era. The winning village is the one which scores the most direct hits on the other's church!

15 April 2023

https://chios.gr/en

WITCHES’ NIGHT

ALTHOUGH THERE ARE many variations of Walpurgisnacht (witches' night), this festival is usually celebrated with dancing and bonfires on 30th April or 1st May in central and northern Europe. It is held exactly six months after All Hallows' Eve, more commonly known as Halloween. And, like Halloween, Walpurgis has its roots in ancient pagan customs, including celebrating the arrival of spring with bonfires at night, since the night of 30th April is halfway between the spring equinox and summer solstice. In Germany, Walpurgisnacht is the night

experience with cutting-edge performances happening in a host of unique alpine venues, from pools and sky-high igloos to enchanted forest clearings and mountain stage sets. The DJ line-up for 2023 includes chart-topping Eliza Rose, SB family Andy C, and Eats Everything. Andy Cato and Tom Findlay – collectively known as Groove Armada and renowned for their meticulously crafted DJ sets – will also be return to Snowbombing for the first time since 2019.

10-15 April 2023

https://snowbombing.com

when the witches gather together at the Hexen-tanzplatz (witches' dance), from where they fly up as one to Mount Brocken where they convene with the devil. Legend says that evil ghosts represented by cold weather, snow and darkness meet with witches and demons in the Harz mountains. Their sinister cavortings around the fire are said to reunite them with the devil. Whilst this may sound like a load of superstitious nonsense, people from all over Germany head to Blocksberg mountain on 30th April, many dressed as witches, to mark Walpurgisnacht and celebrate the arrival of Spring.

30 April 2023

NANGHOL LAND DIVING

On Pentecost Island in a remote part of the South Pacific, brave men and boys of the Sa tribe prepare to hurtle towards the ground headfirst from a tall wooden tower, with nothing more than tree vines tied around their ankles and no safety equipment whatsoever.

Saturdays in April, May & June 2023

CORONATION OF KING CHARLES III

SATURDAY 6TH MAY 2023

will officially mark the beginning of a new era for the British monarchy, when King Charles III, the richest of all living members of the British royal family, is crowned at Westminster Abbey. The first to be crowned since the Queen Mother in 1937, Camilla, Queen Consort, will also be crowned at the same historic event, which is the first coronation to take place in almost seven decades following the late Queen's long reign. Reports suggest that the ceremony is likely to be less grand than that of Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. In any event, the St. Edward’s Crown will be placed on King Charles III’s head by the Archbishop of Canterbury. He will also be presented with the sceptre and orb which are part of the British crown jewels. It is not yet clear which crown will be placed on Camilla’s head, but the one that was used for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother is set with the priceless 105.6-carat Koh-i-Noor diamond, which is highly controversial because it was seized by the British from 10-year-old Maharaja Duleep Singh after they imprisoned his mother.

6 May 2023

CINCO DE MAYO

IN MID-20TH CENTURY AMERICA , the celebration of Cinco de Mayo became, amongst Mexican immigrants, a way of boosting pride in their heritage, not to mention an excuse to eat Mexican food and drink tequila all day! But in Mexico the holiday is celebrated a little bit differently, because Cinco de Mayo commemorates a military victory on 5th May 1862 when, despite being vastly outnumbered by the French, the Mexican army was triumphant. In Puebla, the day is celebrated with parades, speeches, mouthwatering meals and historical re-enactments of the famed 1862 battle. Visitors to Puebla experience an authentic, vibrant and colourful celebration featuring artistic spectacles, costumed paraders, Mexican dancers, mariachi bands, parties and dancing filling the streets. If you are in Puebla for Cinco de Mayo, be sure to sample mole poblano , which is turkey or chicken covered with a deliciously thick green chili sauce.

5 May 2023

https://visitmexico.com

RHINE IN FLAMES

EVERY YEAR, THE picturesque River

Rhine in Germany is lit up by dramatic and elaborate firework shows, in five different locations along this great, historic waterway. For onlookers, this multi-faceted event is nothing short of spectacular. Rhein In Flammen (Rhine in flames) kicks-off with the Bonn extravaganza on the first Saturday in May. Held at Rheinauen Park, thousands of fluorescent red Bengal fires light the way downstream for a fleet of dozens of decorated and illuminated ships along a 26 kilometre stretch – the longest part of any Rhine in Flames spectacle. While many board ships to see the displays from the water and feel more immersed in the incredible pageant, there are plenty of places to watch the fireworks along Bonn’s promenade. Meanwhile along the river's banks, wine festivals attract locals and visitors alike and keep everyone suitably merry late into the night.

6 May 2023 in Bonn

www.rhein-in-flammen.com

BRIGHTON FESTIVAL

OVER THE YEARS, Brighton Festival has firmly established itself as an annual celebration of music, theatre, dance, circus, art, film and literature, as well as a great supporter of the arts. Held annually in the bohemian British seaside city since 1967, the festival is a veritable creative cornucopia of world-class art and entertainment happenings, including debates, musical concerts and theatrical performances. Many of the festival’s events are specially commissioned and enjoy their first public outings every May. Previous

guest directors of this critically acclaimed mixed arts fest have included actress Vanessa Redgrave, artist Anish Kapoor and cartoonist David Shrigley. This year, the critically acclaimed musician, producer, DJ and broadcaster Nabihah Iqbal will be acting as the festival’s guest director (pictured). Nabihah’s 2017 debut album of viscerally satisfying electronic pop music, Weighing of the Heart , garnered huge praise from The Guardian and BBC Radio, amongst others. 6-28 May 2023

https://brightonfestival.org

Nabihah Iqbal

SANTA CLARITA COWBOY FESTIVAL

Every year since 1994, about thirty minutes north of Los Angeles, the city of Santa Clarita is home to one of the world’s biggest action-packed cowboy gatherings, staged to celebrate the state of California’s western heritage.

22-23 April 2023

THRISSUR POORAM ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

KNOWN AS THE cultural capital of the Indian state of Kerala and rich in history, brimming in cultural heritage and boasting a wealth of archaeological treasures, Thrissur’s annual elephant festival attracts those with a weakness for colourful Indian celebrations that both delight and assault the senses at the same time. In a region in which elephants are a common feature of religious festivities, Thrissur Pooram stands out as an

EUROVISION  SONG CONTEST

OFTEN QUESTIONED AS to whether it is a song contest or in fact a political platform, the 67th edition of the Le Grand-Prix Eurovision de la Chanson Européenne (as the contest is also known) will be held in Liverpool on 13th May. By tradition, the contest is usually held in the country which wins it the preceding year. But the Russian invasion has sadly made it impossible for the event to be held in Ukraine, despite Kalush Orchestra winning the 2022 contest in Turin (pictured). Whilst this annual singing competition between member countries of the European Broadcasting Union has been taking place since 1956, today it is as popular as ever, having gleaned a new generation of followers in recent years. As we went to press, a total of 37 European countries, including Ukraine and host nation the UK, have confirmed their participation in the 2023 Eurovision. Bulgaria, Montenegro and North Macedonia are not participating.

13 May 2023

https://eurovision.tv

observance that is especially endowed with the presence of these giants which are, of course, the main attraction, decorated with gleaming golden headdresses, ornamental bells, palm leaves, peacock feathers and beautiful intricate paintings. Ornate parasols – carried by the elephant riders on tall bamboo poles – add to the stunning, overall visual feast of it all, complete with fireworks, folk dancing, revelry and plenty of drumming.

10-11 May 2023

https://thrissurpooramfestival.com

Kalush Orchestra

GIRONA FLOWER FESTIVAL

LOCATED IN CATALONIA

beside the River Onyar, the historic Spanish city of Girona is best known for its medieval architecture, walled Old Quarter and the Roman remains of Força Vella fortress. But for ten days every year, Girona's buildings, courtyards, monuments and gardens are adorned with more than one hundred somewhat spectacular floral displays and arrangements, staged alongside a programme of traditional Spanish events and culinary happenings. Whole streets

HAY FESTIVAL WALES

FOR TEN DAYS annually at the end of May, when the playful British weather is most likely to be bright and sunny, thousands of literary buffs, young and old alike, descend upon Hay-on-Wye in Wales' beautiful Brecon Beacons National Park, essentially to sit and read books. The now world-famous Hay Festival celebrates great writing from poets and scientists, lyricists and comedians, novelists and environmentalists, not to mention the power of great ideas to transform peoples' way of thinking.

Hay strives to give everyone from children to professors an opportunity to enjoy the energy of the written word. The 36th spring edition sports a bold new programme full of fresh perspectives on a world in flux, including a number of events featuring internationally acclaimed novelists with new work, including Margaret Atwood and Eleanor Catton. Meanwhile Grammy award-winning singer and songwriter Dua Lipa will be presenting a live recording of her podcast, At Your Service

25 May - 4 June 2023

www.hayfestival.com/wales

THE FRENCH OPEN

ALSO KNOWN AS Roland-Garros, the French Open is held over two weeks at the Stade Roland-Garros in Paris. It is currently the only Grand Slam tournament in the world on clay. Located at the edge of the Bois de Boulogne and the Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil and named after the French aviator Roland Garros, the venue for the French Open was built in 1928 to accommodate French players' appearances in the Davis Cup. Expanded and updated many times over the years, the

become art installations, accompanied by music, lights, fountains and the intoxicating scent of thousands of flowers. Befitting its status and central location on the city’s bustling square of Plaça del Vi, Girona’s town hall always comes up with a well-executed and rather fantastic display. Throughout its flower festival, the wonderful ensembles of striking colours and penetrating aromas that accompany the cultural heritage of this beautiful Catalan city make Girona a must visit destination.

13-21 May 2023

stadium covers 12 hectares and has 18 clay courts. This year’s tournament will see Iga Świątek defending the Roland-Garros title she won in 2022 by defeating American star Coco Gauff 6–1, 6–3. Should she win, it would be Świątek’s third triumph at Roland-Garros. Rafael Nadal defeated Casper Ruud to land the men’s trophy in 2022. At the age of almost 37, will the Spanish ‘King of Clay’ be fit enough to win again this year? We shall see.

28 May - 11 June 2023

www.rolandgarros.com

Rafael Nadal

rest your

CASA CHABLÉ

A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE LOCATED ON THE EAST coast of the Yucatán peninsula, previously inhabited by the Maya people for more than a millennium, Sian Ka'an was protected as a biosphere reserve in 1986, when the Mexican government recognised that uncontrolled development would have a devastating effect on the region.

An awe-inspiring area of natural beauty, Sian Ka'an is today home to just 2,000 residents and thousands of species of flora and fauna within tropical forests, mangroves and marshes. More than half of the reserve is off limits to all with the exception of scientists carrying out research. The remainder of Sian Ka’an is reserved for sustainable development and low-impact activities including ecotourism.

A 35-kilometre drive from Tulum with its remoteness and secluded location pivotal to its charm, Casa Chablé is surrounded by almost five hectares of tropical jungle and fronted by white sand beaches on a private

islet. Visitors’ adventures begin at the entrance to the biosphere, where they are whisked on a private half-hour boat ride through lush mangroves before reaching the resort’s private dock.

Skillfully fashioned by award-winning interior designer Paulina Moran to straddle nature, comfort and luxury, guests are accommodated in five standalone beachfront villas plus a main building containing five suites each with their own private terrace. A private 200-metre beach is dotted with daybeds, tipis and hammocks for guests to relax in the sultry breezes.

An onsite restaurant serves gourmet fare conceptualised by renowned chef Jorge Vallejo to showcase regional cuisine and feature locally caught fish. An oceanfront al fresco wellness esplanade is the perfect place for yoga and meditation. And a rooftop lounge and bar provide incredible sunset vistas at the end of each blissful day.

https://chablehotels.com

head

FROM A BIOSPHERE RESERVE IN MEXICO TO AL-‘ULA’S ASHAR VALLEY, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER TEAM CHECKS OUT A DOZEN NEW STANDOUT HOTELS AND RESORTS AROUND THE WORLD

TOO HOTEL PARIS - MGALLERY

SITUATED ON THE LEFT BANK OF THE RIVER SEINE AND SET IN the middle of Paris’ three southern arrondissements, originally an industrial suburb, the 13th arrondissement has undergone considerable change since it was annexed by the French capital in 1860. Woods, fields and mills once filled the area which are streets and buildings today, so there are many titbits of fascinating history tucked away off its leafy, picturesque lanes.

Something of a Parisian secret and synonymous with multiculturalism and creativity, the 13th arrondissement is also home to Paris' main Asian community, the Quartier Asiatique, located in the southeast of the district. Brimming with street art by the likes of Conor Harrington, Pantónio and D*Face, feasting on scrummy Southeast Asian fare in Paris' Chinatown and stepping back in time in the picturepostcard village of Butte-aux-Cailles are just a few must dos in the 13th arrondissement.

The latest project by visionary entrepreneur Laurent Taïeb and famed French interior designer Philippe Starck, TOO Hotel opened in October 2022 and is already one of the hottest places to rest one’s head in the City of Lights. Situated between

the 17th and 24th floors of one of Jean Nouvel’s famous Duo Towers – which have swiftly come to define the 13th arrondissement of today – atop the hotel, one of the city’s highest rooftop bars, TOO TacTac Skybar, offers sweeping vistas across all of Paris.

Somewhat disrupting Paris' hospitality scene by offering designer city stays at accessible prices, every one of TOO’s 139 rooms and suites provides bird’s eye views across the metropolis via panoramic windows, beds carefully angled towards Paris' most well-known landmarks and a colour palette that draws upon the ever-changing colours of the sky, from cloud-like cream to sunset orange.

A sophisticated spa, complete with three treatment rooms, a well-equipped gym, a cedar wood sauna and a 10-person outdoor hot tub surrounded by trees overlooking the River Seine, is open exclusively to hotel guests. The elliptical bike in the gym was designed by Starck himself. Meanwhile, the hotel’s eponymous TOO Restaurant is set within a glittering gold-ceilinged glass cube balanced above the hotel, providing Parisians and visitors alike with a unique location to rendezvous in the sky and feast on fine food courtesy of chef Benjamin Six.

https://mgallery.com

ROCK HOUSE

LOCATED TO THE SOUTHEAST OF THE BAHAMAS AND north of the Dominican Republic just 90-minutes by air from Miami, the Turks and Caicos is an English-speaking archipelago of some 40 coral islands in the Atlantic Ocean. And its third largest island and the hub of tourism activity in this British Overseas Territory, Providenciales (or ‘Provo’ as the island is locally known) is something of a Caribbean jewel. Offering some of the most spectacular white sandy beaches, clear turquoise waters and vibrant reefs in the world, Providenciales' numerous snorkelling sites are ideal to see a variety of fish, stingrays and turtles up-close-and-personal. Water sports abound in the Turks and Caicos, as do beautiful wetlands, nature reserves and lush parks, and designer shopping and world-class cuisine, providing something to tickle the fancy of pretty much every vacationer. The Princess Alexandra National Park, on the northeast coast of Providenciales, is particularly outstanding and not to be missed.

Six years in the making and occupying a five-hectare oceanfront site tucked into the rugged, untouched limestone cliffs of Providenciales’ north shore, Rock House opened last year channelling Mediterranean vibes throughout the chic, eco-conscious resort, with natural landscaping central to its design.

The first cliffside property in the Turks and Caicos, Rock House’s 46 suites and residences pair vaulted ceilings with local limestone walls, and private pools with outdoor showers, complete with floor-to-ceiling windows maximising the incredible views of the island’s renowned turquoise waters.

Surrounded by day beds and parasols, the resort’s 30-metre elevated infinity pool is central to the resort’s wellness aesthetic, which includes in-room massages, yoga classes and a variety of walking and jogging trails. Punctuated by a serviced jetty that stretches some 40 metres into the Atlantic, Rock House guests also have access to an exclusive beach club and private beach, where oceanfront dining features Adriatic cuisine and a curated wine list with endlessly flowing rosé. https://gracebayresorts.com

ETT HEM

A CITY OF VIBRANT AND DIVERSE NEIGHBOURHOODS, mostly compact enough to explore on foot, spending time in Stockholm is a treat for even the most seasoned traveller. Nature lovers adore the parks, waterfront promenades and the archipelago. Culture fans are drawn to the city’s museums and historical sites. Design buffs become immersed in Scandinavia’s signature minimalist and practical yet warm style. And foodies relish mixing up Swedish culinary classics with Nordic farm-to-table experimental offerings.

Smart, elegant and wealthy Östermalm district is situated in the central eastern part of Stockholm, has some of the highest house prices in the country and is where the well-heeled and well-dressed live, work and play. Here you’ll find the city’s most fancy boutiques, smartest restaurants and upscale, turn-of-last-century apartment blocks and embassies.

A seductively stylish deluxe boutique hotel, Ett Hem was the brainchild of proprietor Jeanette Mix some 15 years ago. Originally set within one gorgeous 20th century townhouse re-imagined by Ilse Crawford, the property is quietly positioned amongst residential houses in Lärkstaden, an area often referred to as Östermalm’s embassy district. Despite being so close to the city centre the neighbourhood is calm and relaxed, yet high-end shops, restaurants and galleries are just a short hop away. The type of place one could move into permanently at the drop of a hat, Ett Hem’s collection of beautifully detailed and utterly tasteful salons and living rooms welcome guests, visitors and locals equally warmly.

Having universally enchanted ever since opening its doors in 2012, when Ett Hem celebrated its tenth anniversary it marked the occasion

by expanding into two adjacent townhouses at numbers 4 and 6 Sköldungagatan, creating ten new guest rooms, three residences for longterm visitors, a well-equipped gym, a new bakery and a new lounge. The hotel’s secret garden was also extended. Filled throughout with a carefully curated blend of vintage, bespoke and contemporary furniture and art, Ett Hem’s new rooms are as delightfully relaxed as the originals, providing even more excuses to stay or even just dine at this charming property when visiting the Swedish capital. www.etthem.se

FAIRMONT TAZI PALACE TANGIER

TANGIER IS A GATEWAY TO MOROCCO LOCATED ON THE Strait of Gibraltar where Africa meets Europe, a stone’s throw from Spain. An intensely charismatic port city rich in architecture and boasting a fascinating history, having been ruled through the ages by a variety of different conquerors, Tangier exudes a unique multicultural blend of cultures and influences.

Known as the ‘White City’, Tangier’s hillside medina, bazaars and souks are amongst Morocco’s most vibrant. Situated in the upper part of the medina, Tangier’s kasbah has served as the city's military and political center since the Roman era. Tangier’s bustling streets of lime-coated houses exude a charisma that captivates visitors, persuading them to return again and again. And numerous artists – not least Delacroix and Matisse –have unsurprisingly succumbed to the city’s charms over the centuries.

Mirroring Tangier’s seductive charm, majestic new Fairmont Tazi Palace hotel is set within a lush and sprawling hillside site overlooking the city, offering incomparable sweeping views and a high level of luxury throughout its 133 lavish rooms, suites and penthouses. Some rooms overlook the forested hillside, while others provide unobstructed views of the old city and mountains beyond.

Built a century ago as a residence for the King’s advisor but eventually abandoned, the property’s historic features have been meticulously restored to their original 1920s glory to provide today’s guests with a hospitality experience fit for royalty. A selection of vibrant dining venues and bars are complemented by a spectacular wellness centre encompassing a huge spa offering holistic experiences in ten treatment rooms. Within the

spa, outdoor spaces bathed in natural sunlight lead to a vitality pool, private spa, solarium and hammam.

The perfect base from which to explore Tangier’s many hidden gems, Fairmont Tazi Palace also offers a range of curated local experiences for guests who fancy exploring a little off the beaten track.

www.fairmont.com

SLS PUERTO MADERO

ARGENTINA’S DYNAMIC CAPITAL CITY OF BUENOS AIRES is a bustling, fast-paced and cosmopolitan metropolis which combines Belle Epoque architecture and grand leafy avenues with lively cafés, superb dining and happening nightlife. From La Boca’s brightly coloured buildings and cobblestoned streets to San Telmo’s antique shops and colonial architecture, Buenos Aires is imbued with Latin passion throughout its unique mix of old and new and everything in between.

Situated alongside the water and little more than a rotting wasteland twenty-five years ago, Buenos Aires’ shiny new district of Puerto Madero is home to lofty skyscrapers, regenerated brick warehouses, perfect sidewalks and well-equipped parks. Attracting young professionals and considered to be one of the world’s most successful urban waterfront regeneration projects, Puerto Madero is Buenos Aires’ wealthiest and fastest growing neighbourhood today.

Envisioned by renowned Italian designer and architect Piero Lissoni, SLS Puerto Madero opened last year consisting of 58 suites and 134 residences universally celebrating Buenos Aires’ creative spirit and distinctive energy. The SLS brand’s maiden South American property, the project was carefully designed to offer extraordinary experiences for guests and locals alike, including landscaping by Enzo Enea, world-class cuisine courtesy of chef Jose Icardi, an on-site Ciel Spa, outdoor swimming pool and state of the art gym, and a curated collection of museum quality art, which includes works from up-and-coming artists and masters alike. Highlights include a massive exterior mural by Graciela Hasper and sculptural installations by Eugenio Cuttica.

Exuding a playful yet sophisticated ambiance throughout, SLS Puerto Madero is both a resort hotel and an exploration base from which to discover the Argentinian capital and retreat to for luxe relaxation after a busy day of sightseeing or a hedonistic night on the town.

www.sbe.com

A true local experience for inspired cosmopolitans

HÔTEL BARRIÈRE FOUQUET’S NEW YORK

ORIGINALLY THE "TRIANGLE BELOW CANAL”, THE coveted TriBeCa patch of New York real estate bordered by SoHo to the north, Chinatown to the east, Broadway to the west and the Financial District to the south is a pricey Manhattan neighbourhood popular with celebrities, fashion designers and techies. Once home to old factories and industrial warehouses, today TriBeCa is one of the Big Apple’s most bohemian districts and is awash with fancy lofts, modern condos, high-end restaurants, cool bars and designer hotels, some of which enjoy spectacular views of the Hudson River on its western border. The area is also home to the Tribeca Film Festival, which brings world-class movie premieres to the city every year, courtesy of Robert de Niro who founded the festival in 2002 in response to the 9/11 terrorist attacks.

Combining the charm of Parisian life with TriBeCa's distinctly laid-back vibe, Hôtel Barrière Fouquet’s New York is the fourth-generation, familyrun French luxury brand’s first property in the States and is located at a cobblestoned intersection in the North Historic District, behind an industrialist red brick facade.

Featuring 97 rooms and suites set over eight floors, decorated from topto-bottom by renowned UK-based Swedish interior designer Martin Brudnizki, the Art Déco-inspired hotel positively exudes the spirit and French sense of style that can be found in every Barrière property. Super luxe fabrics and colours are reminiscent of the subtle yet chic interiors found on the French Riviera, while the custom Toile de Jouy wallpaper - made by Schumacher hospitality exclusively for the hotel - pays homage to the elegant union between Paris and New York.

A stylish French brasserie with a menu created by celebrated chef Pierre Gagnaire; a vegetarian café-restaurant serving delicious dishes throughout the day, and a vibrant bar that creates hand-crafted cocktails well into the early hours collectively satiate the food and beverage needs of discerning guests. Meanwhile a sumptuous subterranean spa is equipped with a hydrotherapy pool, relaxation beds, a sauna and a steam room as well as five treatment rooms and a cutting-edge fitness room equipped with Technogym machines and the city’s best personal trainers.

www.hotelsbarriere.com

SOFITEL BARCELONA SKIPPER

PRACTICALLY UNINHABITED UNTIL THE MID 18TH CENTURY, La Barceloneta is one of the most authentic and popular neighbourhoods in Barcelona today. An old fishing area located in the city’s Ciutat Vella (Port Vell) district, Barceloneta’s characterful narrow alleyways are lined with old buildings, churches, shops and cafés, many of which look exactly as they did a few hundred years ago, lending the entire area a sense of magic and history. Barceloneta also boasts one of the city’s best and longest beaches, which is very popular in the summer months. On the sand and throughout the neighbourhood, rows of restaurants and bars happily sit side-by-side with locals lounging in the streets and drying clothes on their small balconies in the sun. An atmospheric mix of old and new, Barceloneta is unique in the Catalonian capital.

Blending the best of Parisian and Catalan cultures in its own unique spirit of 'La Vida Chic', Sofitel Barcelona Skipper hotel opened towards the end of 2022 adjacent to Barceloneta and a few steps from Somorrostro beach in Vila Olímpica.

The design of Sofitel Barcelona Skipper was imagined by local architecture firm Factoria Uda, with an emphasis throughout the hotel on harmony, sophistication, refinement and the French art of living (art de vivre). The result is a hotel that is rooted in the history and culture of France yet is influenced and invested with the tastes and aesthetics of Catalan.

Dotted with touches of blue, the fresh décor was influenced by the Mediterranean on the hotel’s doorstep and the white of Parisian buildings. Familiar motifs of Barcelona are evident throughout the hotel, such as Antonio Gaudí-designed hexagonal panot which appear above the beds in all 225 guest rooms, alongside classic Parisian features including inlaid oak floors and black and white bathrooms.

Sofitel’s emphasis on art was realised via the work of Catalan artists Ya Ya Tur and Mario Ruiz, who were commissioned to transform the hotel’s rooms and corridors into veritable art galleries. Mario Ruiz used recycled automobile parts to create sculptures, while the hotel’s hallways are lined with Ya Ya Tur’s original paintings. This artistic lean extends to a year-round program of events related to the literary arts, visual arts and music, as well as special events to celebrate wine and food. Two restaurants, a cocktail bar, a rooftop pool bar, two street level terraces and two swimming pools complete Sofitel Barcelona Skipper’s stylish offerings for its pampered guests..

https:// sofitel.accor.com

HOTEL INDIGO BELGRADE

PROTECTED BY LAW AS ONE OF THE SERBIAN CAPITAL’S oldest and most valuable landmarks, Knez Mihailova Street, Belgrade's main shopping area, is named after Mihailo Obrenović III, Prince of Serbia. Located in the very centre of Belgrade, the street boasts a rich history and is lined with a number of townhouses and mansions dating back to the late 19th century. Many of these imposing building are well maintained or in a state of renovation, whilst some are boarded-up, lending the popular pedestrianised thoroughfare a realistic feel.

Cushioned between Knez Mihailova Street on one side and Cika Ljubina street on the other, Hotel Indigo Belgrade is positioned in the pedestrianised heart of the city, making it an excellent base from which to explore the Serbian capital. Kalemegdan Park, Belgrade Fortress, the National Museum and the largest Orthodox place of worship in the Balkans, Saint Sava Temple, are all within walking distance of the hotel, as is Belgrade's vibrant waterfront where a new St. Regis is scheduled to open later this year. Hotel Indigo Belgrade was conceived and designed to reflect local traditions and Serbian culture. Comprising 46 rooms, a fitness center and a large outdoor terrace perfect for al fresco dining in the summer months, the boutique hotel is brimming with interior detailing one might associate with a more fancy property, complete with warm and efficient service to match. Courtesy of interior designer Ivana Letić, the décor in the hotel’s public spaces, guest rooms and suite take their design cues from the local neighbourhood of Doréol. Bathrooms are sleek and equipped with rain showers and top-end fittings. Lining two massive walls either side of the outdoor terrace, huge colourful murals by Serbian street artist ARTEZ fuse

photorealism with illustration, lending the hotel a cool, urban feel. And wellknown restaurant Cveće Zla recently opened in the hotel, creating a vibey new venue for food and drinks in stylish surroundings, offering traditional Serbian cuisine with a modern twist courtesy of talented chef Stefan Zečević.

As a package, Hotel Indigo Belgrade is something of a game-changer for the city’s hospitality scene, not least for its enviable location right in the middle of it all, affordable room rates and it’s happening onsite restaurant. www.ihg.com

MONDRIAN MEXICO CITY CONDESA

ONE OF THE WORLD'S LARGEST CITIES WITH A POPULATION of more than 22 million, Mexico City is a mega city of gigantic proportions. Situated at an elevation of 2,200 metres above sea level and enclosed by mountains and volcanoes, Mexico City is both the largest in Mexico and the most populous in North America. It is also the oldest capital in the Americas and one of only two founded by indigenous people, making Mexico City one of great history dating back to 1325.

Being so huge, navigating Mexico City and its 300 neighbourhoods is not easy and visiting can unsurprisingly be a daunting prospect for a first timer. So it’s probably best to pick a few neighbourhoods and base oneself there, at least to start with.

Just west of Centro Historico, La Roma is a colourful neighbourhood of tree-lined streets punctuated by beautiful architecture, cute boutiques, contemporary art galleries and excellent coffee shops. The city’s hipster heart, La Roma is also close to many of Mexico City’s biggest attractions.

Sandwiched between Chapultepec Park to the west and Roma to the east, fashionable La Condesa is one of Mexico City's coolest neighbourhoods and has its finger on the pulse of what makes the Mexican capital so dynamic. Brimming with young, upwardly mobile professionals, La Condesa’s stylish cafés, happening nightlife, designer boutiques and beautiful parks give it a distinctly European vibe.

Ideally positioned at the crossroads of La Roma and La Condesa – two of the city’s most alluring neighbourhoods – luxury hospitality lifestyle brand Mondrian opened its first hotel in Latin America at the end of 2022. Both a cultural hub and a luxe hotel of 183 rooms including 2 penthouses and 16 suites, Mondrian Mexico City Condesa is located within the landmark i421 mixed-use complex formerly known as Conjunto Aristos. Indeed, the hotel’s diverse programming, commitment to arts and entertainment and four unique food and beverage concepts have already become a serious magnet for guests and locals alike, not to mention its wine shop, wellequipped gym and urban spa. www.mondrianhotels.com

COMO LE MONTRACHET

LOCATED IN BURGUNDY, 10 KILOMETRES FROM BEAUNE IN the heart of French wine country, the charming village of Puligny-Montrachet is unsurprisingly surrounded by vineyards and many of its 400 or so residents are wine lovers. Whilst just a small village, PulignyMontrachet is incredibly well-maintained and has the look and feel of an upmarket Parisian suburb, complete with a Michelin-starred restaurant. This almost certainly has something to do with the fact that Puligny-Montrachet is one of the most famous white wine locations in the world.

Located in the heart of this well-known wine village, COMO is opening its first French property in phases, across four 19th century heritage buildings which were formally historic Hotel Le Montrachet. The revamped and reimagined COMO hotel will eventually contain 31 rooms and suites, each a chic hospitality haven fashioned by famed Italian interior designer Paola Navone. Villa Christine will be the first to open in the spring of 2023.

Bringing the COMO brand’s contemporary flair to the much soughtafter Côte-d'Or region, COMO le Montrachet will surely become a destination for discerning wine aficionados and globetrotting gourmands, not least because the hotel will provide unparalleled access to some of the most famous vineyards in the country.

In time, the phased opening will also see the unveiling of a COMO Shambhala Retreat, which will be the first wellness sanctuary of its kind

in France. Needless to say, the hotel will also offer exceptional gastronomic and exquisite wine experiences in one of the most beautiful settings in Europe.

www.comohotels.com

BANYAN TREE ALULA

HAVING LONG BEEN HIDDEN IN PLAIN SIGHT, HITHERTO known mainly only to the people living in their proximity and a handful of scholars, Saudi Arabia’s archeological treasures are now becoming more apparent to the world thanks to the Kingdom's grand plan to move away from its over-reliance on oil, a key part of which is to become a major player in the global tourism industry. This led to Saudi officially opening Al-'Ula to international travellers in 2020.

Dating back millennia and brimming with ancient wonders, Al'Ula is essentially a spectacularly preserved ancient Arabic city located in the Medina province of northwestern Saudi, consisting of a number of archeological sites. Once the capital of the North Arabian Lihyanites and then the Nabataeans, Al-'Ula served as a meeting place for pilgrims, merchants and explorers for thousands of years, linking Arabia, Egypt and India.

Located 15 kilometres from the Kingdom’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site of Hegra, Banyan Tree AlUla opened towards the end of 2022 nestled

in the serene Ashar Valley, its key principles built around the concept to allow guests to be immersed in the resort and its magnificent surroundings in a multi-sensory experience.

A sustainable luxury resort of 47 tented suites, ranging in size from one to three bedrooms, Banyan Tree AlUla also includes two gourmet restaurants and a stunning swimming pool that sits in a natural crevice in the rocks. A veritable sanctuary for the senses, the resort’s Banyan Tree Spa is a place for physical, mental and spiritual renewal at the hands of expert therapists who impart treatments with a holistic approach based on traditional Asian healing therapies.

Outside the resort, guests can enjoy massages in secluded caves and soothing sound baths under the stars, to picnics in the sky aboard a hot air balloon or flying over Al-'Ula's incredible sites aboard a vintage plane. And a short Land Rover ride from Banyan Tree AlUla, the ancient Nabataean city of Hegra is famous for its preserved tombs with ornate facades carved in bare rock formations and you will find it pretty much deserted.

www.banyantree.com

WIN

a long weekend at hotel baía in cascais,

historic cascais, portugal

ONE LUCKY READER WILL WIN A FOURNIGHT HALF BOARD STAY FOR TWO PEOPLE IN A SUPERIOR SEA VIEW ROOM AT HOTEL BAÍA, INCLUDING A HALFDAY E-BIKE RENTAL COURTESY OF FULLYCHARGED-BIKES.COM AND A PICNIC BASKET TO ENJOY ON THE BEACH

THIRTY MINUTES’ DRIVE FROM LISBON, WHERE a number of former Portuguese Kings spent their summers, Hotel Baía was built in 1962 at a time when Cascais was essentially a fishing village, largely reserved for the aristocracy and bourgeoisie and as yet undiscovered by international travellers.

Today, some sixty years later, Cascais is an upmarket cosmopolitan city and European tourist destination and Hotel Baía is positioned at the very heart of it, overlooking the beautiful bay. In fact, there is no more central location in all of Cascais from which to explore the city and the stunning coastline upon which it is set.

Catering to visiting globetrotters and holiday-making locals alike, Hotel Baía’s rooms and suites are modern and well-equipped, with more than half of them overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, crowned by an indoor pool and large sundeck where sundowners are served year-round. On street level, tasty and hearty fare and an excellent range of delectable Portuguese wines are served in a bustling restaurant and sprawling al fresco terrace which connects the hotel with charming Cascais. www.hotelbaia.com/en

TO ENTER

The draw will take place after 1 June 2023 and the winner will be notified privately via email. This prize can be used any time before 1 March 2024 subject to availability when booking. Blackout dates apply. The prize is not transferable to another person. The Cultured Traveller will not share your details with third parties. Multiple entries will be disqualified. Entrants may be added to The Cultured Traveller e-mailing list.

CASCAIS

THE PORTUGUESE ELITE’S SEASIDE PLAYGROUND

CASCAIS

OFFERING AN ELEGANT TASTE OF THE BEST THAT PORTUGAL HAS TO OFFER IN ONE PERFECTLY FORMED PACKAGE, COMPLETE WITH AN ABUNDANCE OF SANDY BEACHES AND NATURAL SCENERY, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU EXPLORES THE STYLISH SEASIDE CITY OF CASCAIS, JUST HALF-AN-HOUR FROM LISBON

CHARISMATIC LISBON MAY BE THE crown jewel in Portugal’s touristic crown, complete with its famous trams and spectacular views from atop its seven hills, but just a 20-kilometre drive or a 40-minute train ride from the Portuguese capital, the chic seaside city of Cascais has been a favourite of the country’s elite since the mid 19th century, ever since King Luís took his first dip in its waters more than 150 years ago.

King Luís may have died in his palace in Cascais in 1889, but ever since he built a royal residence in the city, the former fishing village has been transformed into a tasteful, laid-back summer retreat for royalty, aristocrats and the simply well-off. Being located in the heart of the

Portuguese Riviera in the affluent coastal region to the west of Lisbon, just a half-hour drive from Humberto Delgado Airport, has also prompted many financially savvy expats to make Cascais their home in recent years, not least because many enjoy a 10-year tax exemption on their qualifying foreign income.

PORTUGAL’S CURRENT PRESIDENT, MARCELO

Rebelo de Sousa, often frequents his relatively modest house in the centre of Cascais. President Óscar Carmona chose Cascais Palace as the official residence for his family from 1928 until 1945. And to this day, guests of the presidency are often accommodated at Cascais Palace, with rooms permanently set-up to receive visiting

dignitaries. Indeed, set within a restored 15th century fortress, Cascais Palace is one of Portugal’s most lovingly restored historical properties, and is now at the center of a smart art-led district, which is the perfect place to begin a weekend’s immersion in this imposing coastal city.

A RECENTLY COMPLETED ONE-OF-A-KIND project, Cidadela Art District occupies the ancient fortress that once defended the western end of the Tagus estuary. Today it is a place for artistic creation and design inspiration, complete with galleries, boutiques and an art-led designer hotel containing half a dozen studios for artists. Not to be missed are the plethora of sculptural works liberally scattered throughout the district, produced

Gracinha Viterbo

CITY FOCUS CASCAIS

by a number of notable Portuguese artists, including contemporary figurative sculptor Rogério Timóteo, who was born a short drive away in the hamlet of Anços in Sintra.

DEPENDING ON WHAT TAKES YOUR FANCY, Cidadela Art District is within walking distance of pretty much all of Cascais’ must-see sights. Offering pretty much the same range of attractions as the Portuguese capital but on a smaller, more manageable scale, with a liberal sprinkling of elegance, what Cascais boasts that Lisbon does not are a number of inviting, sandy beaches. Spread along 30 kilometres, the coastline gets progressively more rugged and dramatic on the way to Guincho. The beaches from Cabo Raso going towards Guincho are also where the sea is choppier and the stronger winds are ideal for surfing.

You will find the calmest waters in Cascais between Estoril and the beach immediately in front of Hotel Baía, a hospitality landmark, having been owned and run by the same family for 60 years. Hearty, tasty fare is served in the hotel’s casual main restaurant on street level, directly opposite the beach, which is wonderful for people watching. Meanwhile the hotel’s rooftop Blue Bar is one of the best spots is Cascais for sundowners. www.hotelbaia.com

FOR A SPOT OF CULTURE, CASCAIS’ MUSEUM quarter, which is somewhat hidden in plain sight behind the old town, parallel with the seafront, includes the standout Casa das Histórias Paula Rego and a couple of charming parks. Immediately recognisable thanks to its pair of striking pyramid-shaped red

Casa das Histórias Paula Rego

CITY FOCUS CASCAIS

concrete towers, Casa das Histórias Paula Rego was designed by architect Eduardo Souto de Moura, who was chosen by Rego herself. The museum sits within a verdant setting in the heart of Cascais, surrounded by ancient trees. Inside, its well-designed exhibition spaces flow from one to the other, and a good onsite café and al fresco seating make spending a few hours at the museum a calm cultural experience.

One of the city’s most emblematic buildings, the eclectic, almost Disney-esque architecture of Count Castro Guimarães Palace is reflective of a particular style which originated in the Portuguese Riviera in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when the region first became popular with the ruling royal family. Built between 1897 and 1900 for Jorge O’Neill, an aristocrat of Irish descent, it was later acquired by the Count Castro de Guimarães. In 1931 it was turned into a museum and casually strolling through its rooms today is something of a visual feast. Afterwards, head behind the palace into its well-tended gardens which now adjoin beautiful Marechal Carmona Park. At its centre, a large pond teems with turtles while hens, cockerels and peacocks wander around freely. It’s a tranquil place to pause for breath during a day of sightseeing in Cascais, and you’ll often see locals and tourists alike lying on the park's lawns soaking-up the sun.

Sushi Design Farol Hotel

Santa Maria House and Santa Marta Lighthouse

CITY FOCUS CASCAIS

FIVE MINUTES' WALK DOWNHILL FROM

Palacio Seixas, the narrow alleys, lanes lined with pastel buildings and picturesque squares of the city's old town are worthy of an afternoon's exploration, not least to pit stop for a pretty decent espresso for less than a Euro, or tuck into some simply prepared seafood accompanied by a quaffable Portuguese wine. Amongst the many shops you’ll amble past in the old town is gallery-like Cais 16, which is brimming with gourmet treats, handmade gifts and candles and soaps hailing from Portugal. cais16 craftgallery Also worth seeking out is Gracinha Viterbo’s Cabinet of Curiosities, which is set within a series of small rooms in a villa, filled with everything from books and ceramics to cushions, wallpapers and furniture, all

handpicked by the designer herself. A veritable playground of interior design objets d’art, Viterbo’s store is one of Cascais’ most characterful and loved. https://viterbointeriordesign.com

PORTUGAL IS A COUNTRY NOT SHORT OF excellent food and superb wines and nowhere is this truer than Cascais, which offers a wide variety of quality restaurants to suit every holiday budget.

In the centre of town, just across the road from Hotel Baía, Panorama da Villa serves excellent top-notch local fare with an emphasis on fresh fish and seafood. Not to be missed is its traditional Portuguese sizzling shrimp dish of gambas à guilho. For main course, order

Casa Da Guia

the restaurant's speciality hake fillets with cockles, prepared with white wine and lime juice and served with a moreish oven-roasted rice. The restaurant’s extensive wine list includes a number of bottles produced by the owner, including a delectable oaky red blend, Pacto do Diabo, made from Merlot, Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. You can’t go wrong with seafood and a full-bodied red in Cascais! www.villacollection.pt

Ten minutes’ walk from the centre, boutique 33-room Farol Hotel is probably the city’s most fashionable address to rest one’s head and boasts one of Cascais’ most stunning swimming pools, perched directly above the Atlantic, surrounded by a stylish pool deck that wouldn’t look out of place on the pages of Vogue. Set within a restored 19th

century mansion formerly owned by the Count of Cabral, plus an added contemporary extension, the hotel is an aesthetically pleasing union of classic and modern styles, is a member of Design Hotels, and a number of its suites were decorated by renowned Portuguese fashion designers, including Ana Salazar. For a special occasion, Farol is also home to an exceptionally good Japanese restaurant, Sushi Design. https://farol.com.pt

WHAT MAKES CASCAIS SO SPECIAL IS THE stunning coastline upon which it is set, so no visit to the city is complete without spending some time exploring it at a gentle, relaxed pace. With countless routes to follow, hiring an electric bicycle in Cascais makes light work

CITY FOCUS CASCAIS

of covering long distances in relatively short periods of time and enables visitors to see as much of the glorious coastline as possible. Pick-up one of Fully Charged’s chunky e-bikes from one of a number of central Cascais hotels and head out of town, along the coast, towards the surfer’s paradise of Guincho. www.fullycharged-bikes.com

EN ROUTE TO GUINCHO, YOUR FIRST STOP should be Casa Da Guia, where rambling cliff-top gardens are presided over by a handsome 19th century palace

which has been painstakingly restored and painted bright yellow. Surrounding it, a variety of quirky shops, cool restaurants and imaginative exhibition spaces make the best use of their unique location and together provide a destination to spend a good few hours if not longer, chilling-out, sipping cocktails and enjoying the magnificent Atlantic views. In the summer months, Casa Da Guia becomes a buzzing hive of activity every day and night of the week.

casadaguia

A PLACE OF INSPIRATION ...

Located between Estoril and Cascais, a preferred location for many Kings and Aristocrats, for its beauty and excellent weather all year round, the hotel offers a luxurious ambient of refinement with breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean, with 192 rooms, including 20 suites, 2 restaurants and bar, Miragem Water Lounge with relaxation area, Spa, Health Club and a service of excellence.

Tel: (+351) 210 060 600 | www.cascaismirage.com

Av. Marginal nº 8554, 2754-536 Cascais

CYCLING ONWARDS TAKES YOU ALONG A PURPOSE built and an easy-to-navigate cycle path which follows the dramatically rocky coastline. After a few kilometres, when you see a compact buff-coloured standalone fortress, you have reached Fortaleza do Guincho and the most westerly point in mainland Europe.

Perched above the ocean on a rocky promontory and built in the 17th century as a defensive fortress, Fortaleza do Guincho is a both a plush 27-room boutique hotel and a destination gastronomic venue for Cascais' most discerning gourmands. On one side of the fort is the lighthouse of Cabo de Roca, marking the European

mainland's westernmost point. On the other side is golden Guincho beach, famous for its sunsets and superlative surfing conditions. For those who love nothing more than bracing and invigorating surroundings, to stay at Fortaleza do Guincho is to experience the wind and waves crashing onto the cliffs beneath you. And one of the first restaurants in Portugal to be awarded a Michelin star in 2001, which it has consistently retained for more than two decades, the creative cuisine served in the hotel’s fine dining restaurant conveys a distinct sense of place, with dish upon dish impressing diners year after year.

www.fortalezadoguincho.com

A LITTLE BEYOND THE FORT, THE VAST SANDY expanse of Guincho Beach, on the edge of the Serra de Sintra National park, is an area of immense natural beauty some five kilometres from the centre of Cascais.

If surfing is your thing, this is the place to hit the waves, and the best place to hire a board or have a lesson is Moana Surf School. https://moanasurfschool.com

For a chilled, family-friendly meal overlooking Guincho Beach and the spectacular sunset beyond, unpretentious Bar do Guincho is the place to unwind and enjoy the views. www.bardoguincho.pt

AFTER REFUELLING, GET BACK ON YOUR BIKE and head inland towards the upscale residential area of Quinta da Marinha, to take a short cut back towards the city centre.

One of the most desirable places to live in Portugal, amongst those who have homes here is Cristiano Ronaldo, whose residential property is reputedly Portugal’s most expensive. For keen golfers, the neighbourhood is home to two excellent golf courses, one of which, Oitavos Dunes, is said to be the country’s finest. At the centre of Quinta da Marinha, a low-lying 146-room Sheraton resort hotel is tucked under an umbrella of pines and almost goes unnoticed as you coast past on your way back to Cascais.

EXCEPT FROM THE HUSTLE AND BUSTLE OF A European capital, Cascais offers a dashing taste of the best that Portugal has to offer in one perfectly formed package, complete with a selection of sandy beaches and an abundance of unrivalled natural scenery on its doorstep. And whilst its royal history and presidential connections undoubtedly add cachet to the city, Cascais’ biggest asset is its small beach town vibe and old-world charm which it has skillfully managed to maintain. Most of the best things to do in Cascais actually involve doing very little, apart from perhaps getting on a bicycle, wandering its historic lanes or surfing its waves. For what makes Cascais a textbook destination for cultured travellers is its cultivated pace of life, 300 days of sunshine per year and the city’s mature sense of style and composure. www.visitcascais.

Fortaleza do Guincho and Guincho Beach beyond

CONVERSATION WITH paul burston

THE LONDON-BASED WRITER OF A DOZEN BOOKS, AND FOUNDING HOST OF AWARD-WINNING LGBTQ+ LITERARY SALON POLARI AT THE BRITISH LIBRARY, CHATS TO THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ABOUT HIS EARLY LIFE, GROWING-UP AS AN ACTIVIST, HIS NEW MEMOIR OUT THIS SUMMER AND MEETING HIS HERO

Did you write or were you creative as a child?

I wrote stories from a very young age, when I was at junior school. A friend would illustrate them. They were about the adventures of a character called Jim and they were heavily influenced by whatever I’d seen on TV. Daleks were a regular feature. I also began and abandoned several novels, but that was when I was a little older. I also liked to paint and draw, and by 15 I was a member of the school drama club. I had a small role in a school production of The Importance of Being Earnest and a larger role in Billy Liar. I was always far more interested in the arts than science.

Was English your favourite subject at school?

Always. I’ve always loved books. I’ve always loved stories. Stories are important. They’re how we make sense of the world and our place in it. I had very encouraging English teachers and my mother always encouraged me to read. She’d take me to the local library once a week to borrow books. I read everything and anything I could find and my tastes were very eclectic.

Tell us a little bit about your upbringing in Wales.

It was a small town with quite a small town mentality. Back then, Bridgend was famous for its rugby team. The captain of the Welsh national team came from Bridgend - JPR Williams. Rugby was the be all and end all. The head boy at school had to be a rugby player. And I hated the game. I liked cross country running. I also loved cycling and joined the local cycling team. And the town was near the coast, so I spent a lot of time on the beach. But by the time I was in my mid-teens I couldn’t wait to escape.

Did you have activist tendencies as a teenager?

Very much so. In my early teens I became friends with two brothers whose parents were left wing. Their father came from Iraq and was very politically active. I used to join them on CND marches, much to the amusement of my Tory voting parents. I was often the odd one out – even before I came out. When I was voted in as student governor at school, representing the student body at meetings of the board of governors, it wasn’t because I was popular. It was because I had dyed orange hair and wore makeup and earrings. The other kids knew it would annoy the headmaster, who was very traditional.

When and why did you move to London?

I arrived in London in September 1984 to study English and religious studies at university. But it was a Catholic college and I didn’t like the way the priests taught religious studies, so I

changed courses to English and drama instead. The drama course was very practical and inspiring. We studied everyone from Chekov and Ibsen to Tennessee Williams and Samuel Beckett. I loved every minute of that course. It rekindled my love of writing and I started writing plays. Then I went back to college to study for an MA in drama and film studies.

And then the AIDS epidemic struck..

At first, I was only vaguely aware of AIDS. I was 19, new to London and enjoying my sexual freedom. AIDS

didn’t really hit home until I was 23 and a good friend tested positive for HIV. Then everything changed. I went to the first meeting of ACT-UP at the London Lesbian and Gay Centre in Farringdon. Soon it took over my life. My friend died and I needed at outlet for my grief and my anger, and ACT-UP provided it. ACT-UP stood for AIDS Coalition To Unleash Power and being part of it felt very empowering.

As an ACT-UP activist, you reputedly stormed the House of Commons during the debate over the age of consent?

That was in 1994 and I was part of a group mourning Derek Jarman, who’d died a few days earlier. I was at a very peaceful candlelit vigil, where the mood was solemn but respectful. Then the result of the vote was announced – MPs voted against equality – and a spontaneous riot broke out. I thought it was an appropriate response. Some of us stormed the building. Nobody was harmed. No property was damaged. But the next day the newspapers reported on “gays on the warpath”. I loved that. It was a refreshing change from being referred to as victims.

i became a journalist because i was an activist. for me one was an extension of the other

Mario Frangoulis & Deborah Myers

Burston protesting with Act-Up, 1990

IMAGE: KRYSTYNA FITZGERALD-MORRIS

IMAGE: GORDON RAINSFORD

When did you begin to use your platform as the editor of Time Out’s LGBT Section to speak up for the rights of the community?

I became a journalist because I was an activist. For me, one was an extension of the other. Journalism was a way of campaigning directly to the readership. I applied for the job at Time Out because I wanted a platform in the mainstream media, not just a column in the gay press. I wanted to reach a wider audience and raise awareness. The editor Dominic Wells actively encouraged me to be outspoken and provoke debate. He’s on record as saying he wanted a troublemaker and he found one in me.

Was there a particular book that persuaded you to write your memoir?

I don’t think there was one single book but a variety. I think you need to read widely if you’re to find your own style and not just slavishly copy your favourite writer. Derek Jarman was a big influence on me in many ways – as an activist and as a writer. He wrote very openly about his personal life, believing, as I do, that the personal is political. His first memoir Dancing Ledge had a profound impact on me when I was in my 20s. I put off writing my own memoir because there’s been a lot of trauma in my life and for a long time I was afraid to face it. But then a playwright friend asked if he could interview me as part of a play he was developing. I agreed and soon he was playing me on stage in his one man play, Riot Act. Seeing the audience’s reaction to the play, and that

small segment of my life, gave me the push I needed to write my story. And I’ve been completely honest. I couldn’t see the point in writing it if I wasn’t.

Which writers have most influenced you?

Stephen King influenced me a lot as a storyteller. I first read Carrie when I was 11 or 12 and have reread it many times since. Armistead Maupin was another big influence. His were the first novels I read where LGBTQ+ characters were presented as part of life’s rich tapestry, rather than living in a separate gay world. I’m also a huge fan of James Baldwin. He had an extraordinary ability to highlight injustice and fight for equality with both righteous anger and the power of persuasive argument. Everyone should read Baldwin. He was writing things in the 60s and 70s which could have been written a few years ago. He was writing about intersectionalism before the term was even coined. He was a prophet.

You have written for multiple magazines and national newspapers - which article are you most proud of having published?

I wrote a lot of campaigning pieces about gay rights for newspapers like The Guardian. But I also wrote profiles of people for the Sunday Times Magazine - people like the gay American comedian Steve Moore, who used to joke about having AIDS in order to tackle the stigma around HIV. I also profiled Jude Law just as he was on the cusp of becoming a major film star. I’m proud of those pieces.

Have you met many famous people you truly admire?

I’ve met a lot of the people I grew up admiring, including Debbie Harry, Siouxsie Sioux, Marianne Faithful and my all-time hero, David Bowie. Interviewing Debbie Harry was a career highlight. But meeting Bowie was possibly the most exciting moment of my entire life. There’s a reason I named my memoir We Can Be Heroes, after his song. I’ve been listening to his music since I was 14. We met at an after-show party. I was drunk and gushed at him like a star struck teenager. He was absolutely charming and very good humoured. He didn’t disappoint me in the slightest. People say that you shouldn’t meet our heroes but I’m glad that I met mine.

How did you cope with the lockdowns?

With great difficulty. I found it very hard to write or even read. The first lockdown coincided with the start of a major tour of my literary salon, Polari. Obviously the tour was severely disrupted as venues closed. I think some people assume that writers are solitary creatures and would adapt well to lockdowns. But I need to be out in the world to feed my imagination. I’m inspired by people I meet and observe, or conversations I overhear. Without that access to other people, I found it all extremely difficult. I struggled with anxiety and I drank heavily. 2020 was an awful year.

Burston with Vivienne Westwood

Burston with Derek Jarman

Why is now the right time to tell your story? I was starting work on my seventh novel when Covid arrived and suddenly found that I just couldn’t write. My agent and I had discussed the possibility of me writing a memoir at some point and it seemed to me that now was the ideal time. We were living through another pandemic. There were lots of similarities with the AIDS pandemic, and lots of differences, too. People weren’t being stigmatised in the same way, but there were fears of infection and questions of personal responsibility and care for others. It brought back

a lot of old memories. As a writer, you know when the time is right for a particular story. The time was right for this one. It was a story I knew I had to write. After months of struggling with writers’ block, it just seemed to pour out of me. When a book seems to write itself, you know you’re onto something.

Everyone has demons. Has writing your memoir helped to overcome yours? Very much so. I had to face a lot of things from my past, a lot of traumatic events from my childhood and early 20s, and also times in my life when I

behaved in ways that I’m not proud of. And I learnt a lot. I saw patterns of behaviour I hadn’t really understood before. I stopped drinking alcohol on 1st January 2021 and haven’t looked back since. That wouldn’t have happened had I not written the memoir.

Tell us about the Polari literary salon you founded and the Polari Prize for LGBTQ+ writing.

It was borne in 2007 out of my frustration at how LGBTQ+ writers are marginalised. I’d published 7 books in total by then – 4 non-fiction books and 3 novels – and never once had I been invited to take part in a book festival. So I created a platform to provide opportunities for writers like me to promote their books. It started small, in a bar in Soho. Within 2 years we’d moved to the Southbank Centre and now we’re at the British Library. We’ve also toured regularly since 2014, all over the UK and beyond, supported by the Arts Council. It’s been quite a ride. The prize grew out of the salon. It began in 2011 and has gone from strength to strength. We now have three prizes - for debut, non-debut and children’s and YA books.

If you could be anywhere on the planet with a book, where would it be and what would you be reading?

I’d be on a remote island somewhere, possibly in the Azures, and I’d be reading the latest novel by Stephen King or Lisa Jewell.

Would you call yourself a Cultured Traveller?

I’d like to think of myself as a cultured traveller. I enjoy exploring other cultures and seeing other ways of life. I’ve travelled a fair bit and visited many different parts of the world. I’ve swum with dolphins, been whale watching and dived with great white sharks. But I also have a tendency to be quite lazy on holiday and can happily spend a whole day on the beach with my face buried in a book. But reading is cultured, isn’t it?

Paul Burston’s memoir We

Can Be Heroes will be published on 1st June

stories are important. they’re how we make sense of the world and our place in it

IMAGE: KRYSTYNA FITZGERALD-MORRIS

palatial opulence at the world’s grandest hotel

AS WE SPEED DOWN THE HIGHWAY from Dubai towards the capital of the United Arab Emirates, I reflect on the last time I visited Emirates Palace. Some eight years earlier in 2015, the “Palace” was a stop on Abu Dhabi’s hop-on hop-off sightseeing bus tour, the hotel was pretty much plagued day and night by camera wielding tourists (through whom I once had to be escorted by two butlers simply to workout in the gym), and the property was managed by Kempinski. Back then, I was picked-up from AUH airport in a Bentley, which was one of many owned by the Palace. Today I am in the back of a black long wheelbase BMW, which is

infinitely more discreet but every bit as comfortable, complete with excellent wi-fi and a soundtrack of classical music, which seems apt as we approach the monumental property. Emirates Palace has been managed by Mandarin Oriental since January 2020, although we all know what dominated the years since then, so little materially changed until recently and the hotel is still being re-branded as we speak.

BUILT AND PAID FOR BY THE GOVERNMENT of Abu Dhabi for national prestige, rather than to actually turn a profit, the hotel was constructed to the highest possible standards with literally no

ROYAL SUITE 3601

➤ EMIRATES PALACE

suite envy

AT ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS HOTELS, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU ROAD TESTS A NEW CHAMPALIMAUD-DESIGNED SUITE WHICH QUIETLY OOZES ASIAN OPULENCE AND SOPHISTICATION FROM EVERY CORNER OF ITS 280 SQUARE METRES

expense spared. Costing an estimated USD 3 billion and chiefly designed by British architect John Elliott, when it opened in 2005, Emirates Palace was the third most expensive hotel ever built in the history of hospitality. Amazingly given its immense size and palatial lavishness, it took little more than three years to erect thanks to a workforce of almost 20,000 builders and craftsmen.

Set on a huge reclaimed waterfront site spanning 100 hectares and bordered by a 1.3 kilometre beach for which its pristine white sands were especially imported from Algeria, the overall design of the Palace speaks to the region’s classical architectural language via its use of domes, columns, arches and light. Indeed, the building is crowned by 114 domes, is hung with more than 1,000 crystal chandeliers and is paved with almost 93,000 square metres of granite and marble, which in many parts was jet-cut in supersized slabs before being laid.

Outside, more than 8,000 trees populate the lush, sprawling gardens that surround the property attracting some 150 bird species. Every year, staff harvest 20 tons of dates from the Palace's palms and it takes a team of 78 full-time gardeners to maintain the extensive grounds. Yes, 78 gardeners. All of this extravagance makes Emirates Palace one of only two so-called seven-star hotels in the world, the other being the Burj Al Arab in Dubai.

THANKS TO ITS ELEVATED POSITION, THE

Palace can be seen from many kilometres away and the long drive up towards the main entrance takes us through gardens, past water fountains and under arches. By the time we pull-up underneath its vast porte-cochère, which could probably accommodate more than a dozen limousines at any one time, such is its immenseness that it's easy to forget that the Palace is in fact a hotel.

After a very smooth check-in experience, I am ushered under the hotel’s absolutely enormous 72.6 metre dome towards my suite, stopping in my tracks to gaze up at the spectacle above me. Floor-to-ceiling one of the biggest internal spaces in the world and physically bigger than St Paul’s Cathedral, on balance it is perhaps unsurprising that so many tourists visit the Palace year-round to take photos underneath its triumphal dome. Yet despite being so enormous, there is a hushed, serene and sanctuary-like feel to actually being inside the Palace. Given the size of the place, I cannot for the life of me explain why.

BUT LIVING IN A PALACE DOESN’T COME without its issues, namely the distances one must cover on foot to get to pretty much anywhere. First world problems? Almost certainly, so I try not to complain as I pass through regal halls and grand passageways, under ornate arched ceilings and past cascading internal fountains to reach Royal Suite 3601, which is to be my home for

the weekend. So that they arrive on time, during the coming days, I pre-warn visiting friends that it’s a good 10-15-minute walk from the entrance to my suite, but they will be pleasantly distracted by the acres of stone, gold and mother of pearl en route.

FROM THE DIPTYQUE TOILETRIES IN THE

bathrooms to the plethora of gorgeous orchids and splendid flower arrangements liberally scattered throughout, the 280 square metre one-bedroom Royal Suite 3601 is every inch Mandarin Oriental and quietly oozes Asian opulence and sophistication from every corner, beginning with an impressive entrance hall. A touch at odds with the marble and gilt overload outside its entrance, the suite’s floors are laid with beautiful wood parquet flooring with detailed borders.

Renowned for its transportive interiors and having revived a number of legendary properties – including Raffles Singapore and the Hotel Bel-Air in Los Angeles

– New York-based firm, Champalimaud, designed the suite. The go-to design firm for iconic hotels and properties with pedigree, Champalimaud was obviously the perfect choice for Emirates Palace, for the suite I am ensconced in eschews a sophisticated yet understated residential sensibility, with an obvious focus on craftsmanship and detailing. Luxurious in every aspect – from the overall concept and colour scheme to the mood of the lighting and the tactile feel of the fabrics – the brilliant attention to detail is obvious everywhere and the suite is surprisingly homely despite its massive size.

I set-up my laptop at a generous desk in the corner of the mammoth square lounge, facing into the room beneath

a shimmering contemporary chandelier, and within an hour I have effectively moved-in.

IN THE LOUNGE, ENOUGH WELL-APPOINTED sofas to seat at least a dozen people are covered with an abundance of fine silk pillows of abstract patterns adorned with handmade embellishments. And a substantial wall cabinet, with sliding doors decorated with a nod to Arabic lettering, conceals what must be an 80-inch television. Sculptural table lamps and bespoke artworks complete the stylish feel of the room.

Outside the lounge, a large wraparound balcony – covered and sheltered from the sun and boasting

panoramic views of the hotel’s beach and the Persian Gulf beyond – sports a variety of inviting seating for both dining and lounging. This is where I have the first meal of my stay, which is one of the best chicken Caesar salads I have ever tasted.

Off the lounge, a refined dining room, discreetly equipped for meetings, is set with an elegant leatheredged polished wood dining table and eight exquisite burr walnut leather-upholstered chairs, all by Bentley. A functional butler’s pantry is close-by to serve as a food and drink preparation area for any occasion.

One of my favourite areas of the suite, the oversized bedroom suite is equipped with separate, spacious walkin dressing and wardrobe areas, complete with towering angled mirrors and ample open hanging space.

Throughout the suite, Italian vases, exotic marbles, stingray leathers and boldly veined woods with hightouch finishes abound, together with details and patterns that are inspired by local traditions, setting the suite apart from the rest of the Palace but imbuing the rooms with a sense of place in Abu Dhabi.

A BEAUTIFULLY EXECUTED EXAMPLE OF hospitality design at its very best, with clearly no expense spared in the furnishings, fittings, fabrics and décor, Emirates Palace’s Royal Suite 3601 is a hotel room of such an exceptionally high standard, that it may possibly be unsurpassed in terms of finishing and attention to detail in all of the UAE. And coupled with the Palace’s outstanding leisure facilities, array of onsite restaurants, expansive luxury spa and central location, make residing in this suite an incomparable hotel stay experience for a wealth of palatial reasons.

A night in a Royal Suite at Emirates Palace costs

AED 60,000 including breakfast, a personal butler, access to the club lounge and airport transfers.

http://www.emiratespalace.com

REPEATEDLY VOTED THE HAPPIEST COUNTRY ON THE PLANET, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU INVESTIGATES THE REASON WHY FINNS ARE SO CONTENTED AND THE SECRET BEHIND THEIR INHERENT SISU

FINLAND

WHAT MAKES THE FINNS THE HAPPIEST

FINLAND

HAPPIEST PEOPLE ON EARTH?

Helsinki Harbour, Pohjoisranta Shore

EVERY YEAR, THE UNITED Nation's Sustainable Development Solutions Network uses survey data to determine how people in countries around the world evaluate their lives. What could be deemed as a measure of the steps taken by nations to look after the mental health of their citizens, the findings are published annually in the aptly named World Happiness Index. Top of the list in 2022 was Finland, which beat 145 countries including New Zealand and Sweden to be the happiest nation on earth. Finland coming out on top yet again, for the fifth consecutive year, is no mean feat. So what is it that makes Finnish people the happiest on the planet and Finland such a great place to live? And how does a nation in the northern corner of the world, with a largely cold climate and six months of winter and darkness, produce the happiest people? To find out more, I visit the charismatic capital of Helsinki; Finland's historic former capital of Turku, which dates back to the Middle Ages, I drop into a unique summer opera festival set amidst the breathtaking beauty of Finland's Lakeland region, and I chat to a few Finns in-the-know.

WHAT IT’S IMPORTANT TO KNOW FROM THE outset, is that Finns are active people and know how to make the best use of their time, and neither rain and wind nor the cold and snow are going to stop them from cycling, jogging or even taking a dip in a frozen lake via an avanto, which is essentially a hole cute in the ice over frozen water.

When the weather is warmer during the summer, Finns are immediately outside and energetic, socialising, playing sports, kayaking, hiking, camping and more.

WHILE IN FINLAND, I MEET with author and avid winter swimmer, Katja Pantzar, who is a proponent of some simple practices that make Finnish life so stable, sustainable and healthy for the mind and soul.

About Finnish people being so happy, she says, “a difficult history and long cold winters have helped Finns to cultivate a resilient mindset, a unique Finnish form of fortitude in the face of challenges called sisu.”

the idea that every person, regardless of socioeconomic status, has access to a good, healthy life with equal opportunities, is an inherent part of the finnish happiness formula

Katja Pantzar

Katja Pantzar

IMAGE : KATJA TÄHJÄ

Pantzar continues, “this mindset means that we celebrate winter through a range of outdoor activities including winter swimming, which is going for a refreshing dip in a hole carved into the ice of a lake or the sea. This popular Finnish activity sets off the body’s happy hormones: endorphins, serotonin, dopamine, and oxytocin. Following up an icy dip with a session in a hot sauna helps us deal with whatever life throws at us.”

PERCHED ON A PENINSULA FACING

THE Baltic Sea on Finland’s south coast, Helsinki is one of Europe’s finest small cities. Compact in size and pretty much level throughout, as I stroll Helsinki’s spotless streets, it is apparent that Finns who live in the capital are surrounded by beautiful architecture and good desi gn throughout their lives and it is therefore unsurprising that Helsinki was named the World Design Capital in 2012. The combination of a dynamic and burgeoning food scene, an array of world-class museums, excellent shopping, an assortment of leafy urban squares and open green spaces and Helsinki’s waterfront location clearly make the Finnish capital standout for countless reasons.

Linking Erottaja Square downtown with Market Square on South Harbour, Esplanadi is the city’s green heart, and the sheer length of this long, treelined continental-style park gives the centre of Helsinki a distinctly positive and cosmopolitan feel. In the warmer months it comes alive with ice cream vendors, trendy locals lounging on the grass, buskers and a smattering of market stalls. From May through August, Espa Stage hosts dozens of artists and groups, and Esplanadi is surrounded by high-end but inviting stores, including Finnish glass and tableware company Iittala, and Finnish design company Marimekko, which is renowned for its brightly coloured fabrics. Even in the designer stores, there is little in the way of pretense and everyone is warmly welcomed.

www.myhelsinki.fi/en

Esplanadi, Helsinki

Helsinki

IMAGES HELSINKI PARTNERS

AT THE END OF ESPLANADI, MARKET SQUARE is a year-round outdoor market which sells an array of fresh seasonal produce and hand-crafted items. In contrast to the mass-produced rubbish that has become ubiquitous to many European markets, Market Square is still somewhere one can converse with the farmers and craftsmen who have produced or made what you’re buying, as well as haggle over reindeer furs and sample some strong Finnish coffee. Speaking of which, Finland is the world’s top consumer per capita of the coffee bean and is obvious that Finns love their caffeine. So I visit much lauded Kaffa Roastery to sample some of the best coffee Helsinki has to offer. Here, head roaster Mike Atkins tells me that Kaffa prides itself on personally sourcing all of its beans and making direct trade agreements with the farmers it works with, since the roastery is a strong believer that good coffee should also do good for the people who grow it. It feels like wholesome ethics abound in Helsinki. https://kaffaroastery.fi

FINNISH DESIGN IS OUTSTANDING AND THE scenery is undeniably beautiful, especially outside of the nation’s cities. But the one element of Finnish culture which is paramount to the Finns way-of-life is their saunas. They are simply fanatical about getting naked with their friends and family in a heated wooden box, and this historic year-round passtime may go some way to explaining why Finns are so contented.

following up an icy dip with a session in a hot sauna helps us deal with whatever life throws at us

Katja Pantzar

Lonna Island

IMAGE EETU AHANEN

While saunas are not unique to Finland, they have an ancient history in the country and have long been an integral part of everyday life, with the earliest dating back many millennia and the first written reference in Finnish history appearing in 12th century text.

Before hot water was on tap, a sauna was the best place to wash during freezing winters and it was the most hygienic environment for mothers to give birth. But from practical beginnings and the untold health benefits, saunas have become a

meeting place for Finns to both relax and socialise. And so today, there are saunas literally everywhere in Finland: in boats, next to lakes, in apartment buildings and office towers, in tiny country cottages and even in Parliament. Yes, the country’s president and prime minister both official saunas. Today, there are more than 3 million saunas in a country of just 5½ million inhabitants, which is more saunas than there are cars on Finland’s roads. Business deals get made in them, family and friends bond in them and Finns relax in them and benefit from a marked increase in their mental well-being, amongst many other positives. Not least of which, regular sauna users enjoy better sleep and an increased ability to easier manage stress, which, in light of the unsettled world we live in today, must surely give the Finns an advantage over the rest of us.

ONE OF THE BEST THINGS ABOUT A FINNISH sauna is the diversity. You can go completely old-school with a rustic sauna in the wilderness, pamper yourself at a fancy resort, or mix with the locals at a public facility. And public does not necessarily mean basic. On the contrary, Löyly – Europe’s most awarded

IMAGES : HELSINKI PARTNERS

sauna complex – set a high new international sauna benchmark when it opened almost six years ago on the edge of Helsinki, overlooking the Baltic. As a matter of fact, no visit to the Finnish capital is complete without spending a few hours at Löyly. www.loylyhelsinki.fi

”While Finland boasts one of the most equal societies, with much less separation between social classes than most western countries, nowhere is this more true than in a Finnish sauna, where all titles, hierarchies and status symbols are left in the dressing room,” says Jasper Pääkkönen, Finland’s most famous actor and founder of Löyly. “This sense of equality – in or outside a sauna – creates a strong feeling of safety and contentment in one’s everyday life and is the most important contributing factor to Finns feeling happy with their lives.”

Heslinki's central library, Oodi

Recharge your soul.

Quality restaurants. Authentic sauna experiences. Cutting-edge art and design destinations. Hundreds of islands to visit. Welcome to Helsinki –a truly unique combination of urban culture, nature, space and silence.

Your local guide to Helsinki. MyHelsinki.fi

FINLAND IS A COUNTRY WHERE THE CRIME rate is generally low, so people naturally feel safe, secure and happier. Having radically overhauled its education system years ago, it is now one of the best in Europe, if not the world, and produces some of the best results, leading to more varied and widespread opportunities for young people.

ANOTHER FACTOR WHICH MAKES FINLAND standout from other western countries is a sense of equality for everyone, no matter their socioeconomic background. With a very large middle class, there is little poverty in Finland and the rich traditionally don’t flaunt their wealth. The most affluent people get around Helsinki on bicycles or on foot and only really use their cars to travel out of town. Even then, you will rarely see a Lamborghini on the streets of the Finnish capital.

About equality equating to happiness in Finland, Katja Pantzar tells me, “when we talk about happiness in Finland, the infrastructure of wellbeing is key. Finland is a relatively safe country where

children can walk, bike or travel by public transport to school on their own. We all have free education from primary school through to university, high-quality healthcare and access to nature – every person living in Finland is on average about 200 metres from the nearest green or blue space. There’s a high level of trust between people and in institutions and government. The idea that every person, regardless of socioeconomic status, has access to a good, healthy life with equal opportunities is an inherent part of the Finnish happiness formula.”

AROUND HELSINKI’S COASTLINE, MORE than 300 islands are accessible for the recreational use of Finns and tourists alike. As well as the UNESCO world heritage site and former fortress of Suomenlinna, there are plenty of smaller islands that feature sea-view restaurants and saunas. Lonna Island

Löyly sauna complex

Jasper Pääkkönen

is just one of many, where you can dine al fresco on fresh seafood under a magical blue and pink sky, sit and enjoy the serenity after a meal, and take a heat bath in the sauna a few metres from the table. www.lonna.fi/en

FOR HAPPINESS OF A COMPLETELY different kind, Helsinki is also home to one of the most authentic and family-orientated amusement parks in Europe. Owned and operated by a Finnish Foundation that gathers and donates funds annually for children’s welfare, Linnanmäki is located less than 10 minutes’ drive from the city centre and features a wide variety of rides to suit everyone from children to thrill-seekers. Aside from the seven rollercoasters, three tower rides, a classic river rapids ride and countless others, not to be missed is the park’s original 1951 wooden rollercoaster, Vuoristorata, which was built in the winter of 1950 by Linnanmäki's staff. www.linnanmaki.fi/en

IT TAKES JUST UNDER TWO HOURS TO COVER the 190 kilometres between Helsinki and Turku, as I gaze out of the windows and take in the charming passing scenery. The train is clean, well-equipped, departs and arrives on time and the on-board wi-fi works. Straddling Finland’s southwestern coast, the characterful port city of Turku, rich in seafaring history, is the oldest in Finland and was formerly the nation’s capital. Divided into two by the Aura River, Turku is the gateway to a beautiful archipelago which reaches all the way to Stockholm, the estuary to which is guarded by an imposing Gothic castle dating back to the late 13th century, which was once Finland's administrative center.

There’s plenty in Turku to keep you occupied for 48-hours and everyone I meet is warm and friendly, beginning with my talkative taxi driver who ferries me from the station to the supremely central Scandic Hamburger Börs.

while finland boasts one of the most equal societies, with much less separation between social classes than most western countries, nowhere is this more true than in a finnish sauna, where all titles, hierarchies and status symbols are left in the dressing room

Jasper Pääkkönen

Taiga at Linnanmäki

Book

https://www. scandichotels.com

Very much its heart and soul, Turku grew up around the river, and whilst the city is small it is brimming with riverside eateries, vibrant bars catering to its large student population and some top-notch restaurants, one of which, Smör, is unmissable for a serious gourmand. For a fine-dining establishment, not only is the food superb and the service excellent, but there’s a unique buzz in Smör's dining room and the guest profile is pleasantly mixed and unpretentious.

https://smor.fi/en

I spend time walking from the country’s national shrine, Turku Cathedral, towards the castle along the Aura and simply taking in the riverside scenes, enjoying the relaxed pace of life and occasionally pit-stopping at the

odd museum, including the fascinating Museum of Archaeology and Contemporary Art. Spending any amount of time in Turku is a somewhat delightful sojourn from Helsinki. https://en.visitturku.fi

BEING SOMETHING OF AN OPERA FAN,

I can’t resist an offer to fly to Finland’s spectacular Lakeland region, where a rather special festival takes place every summer during the month of July. The small plane flies in low over incredible scenery as we approach our destination and I see nothing but pristine blue lakes and small tree-covered islands through the windows.

Held in medieval St. Olaf's Castle, which is spectacularly set on an island surrounded by water, the Savonlinna Opera Festival has been established for more than a century and there are dozens of performances throughout the month seen by some 60,000 people. I am mesmerised by both the setting of the 2,000-seat auditorium within the castle’s walls and a visually impressive contemporary interpretation of Aida. Post-opera, a century-old steamboat takes me on a tour of Finland’s largest lake, and fuelled by fine wines and good conversation

a junior suite on the hotel’s 7th floor for great city centre views and plenty of space.

Smör

Turku Turku Cathedral

Aida at the 2022 Savonlinna Opera Festival

IMAGE JEMINA SORMUNEN

Lake Saimaa in the Finnish Lakeland region

with complete strangers, indelible memories are made in a visit to Savonlinna which lasts less than 24-hours door-to-door. That’s Finland for you.

https:// operafestival.fi/en

IT IS CLEAR THAT THE COUNTRY’S OVERALL lack of pretension is one of the main reasons why Finns are so all-round happy, and this comes down to good governance and the same standard of living being offered to all. The country’s most famous people walk the streets unbothered by anyone and last year even Finland’s prime minister was famously seen letting her hair down at Helsinki’s Flow music festival. Having travelled a small part of the country and witnessed little obvious division between the classes everywhere I went, it’s easy to see why people are infinitely more contented in Finland.

"On lottovoitto syntyä Suomeen” is a phrase often heard in Finland. It means that being born in Finland is like winning the lottery, which refers to the perceived fortune of Finns at their high standard of living. Nobody knows for sure who first coined the phrase but I have to say that I concur. For from the provided foundations of well-being, personal freedoms and encouraged healthy work-life balances for all, to the earned trust between the government and the public, everything in Finland works together in harmony to create an exceedingly well-functioning society and an inherent culture of looking out for one another which is wholly unique in the western world today.

St. Olaf's Castle

india’s great city

of learning and burning

FAMOUS FOR SHIVA AND SILK, KEVIN PILLEY EXPERIENCES

SOMETHING OF A CULTURAL OVERLOAD IN THE ANCIENT NORTH INDIAN CITY OF VARANASI, AMIDST AN UNFORGETTABLE ATMOSPHERE OF PILGRIMAGE, DEATH, CREMATION AND THANKSGIVING

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN VARANASI

IRRESPECTIVE OF HOW MANY TIMES

you visit India or whereabouts in its colourful massive you drop anchor, it will most likely move you and generate more visual memories than pretty much anywhere else on earth. Indeed, there is so much to take in and contrarily so much to keep out, that travelling around India is like encountering a non-stop sensual blizzard. But perhaps nowhere in this vast country assaults the senses more than one of the world’s oldest inhabited cities: Varanasi.

SOME 800 KILOMETRES FROM NEW DELHI, IN THE south-eastern part of the state of Uttar Pradesh, Varanasi lies on the left bank of the Ganges and is considered by many to be the spiritual capital of India. If you have never before visited India, Varanasi is the perfect place to begin or end a tour of the world's largest democracy and get an up-close-and-personal insight into its largely Hindu population of some 1.2 billion and rising.

THE NAME VARANASI WAS SPELT BARANASI IN Pali, which ultimately gave birth to the name Banaras. The name Banaras is still widely used today, spelt it a variety of ways. Enthralled by the legend and sanctity of Benaras, Mark Twain once wrote, “Benaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together". One of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on the planet – older than Athens, Jerusalem and Byblos – Varanasi was once the capital of the ancient kingdom of Kashi Mahajanapada. Some of its thousands of temples have outlived Thebes and Nineveh and the city has been a centre of Sanskrit study since ancient times.

In 1791, the then Governor of Bombay, Jonathan Duncan, established Sanskrit College in Varanasi for the study of Hindu law and philosophy. Now known as Sampurnanand Sanskrit University and one of the earliest Gothic Revival structures in India, it is worth visiting to appreciate the stunning architecture. www.ssvv.ac.in

Sampoornanand Sanskrit University

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN VARANASI

MANY OF INDIA’S GREAT SPIRITUAL TEACHERS ARE closely associated with Varanasi. Circa 528 BC, Buddha gave his first sermon in the deer park at Sarnath, 10 kilometres northeast of Varanasi, near the confluence of the Ganges and the Varuna rivers. One of the earliest Tirthankaras of Jainism, Parshvanatha, was born in Varanasi in 872 BC. Hence, for many Hindus, Varanasi is the embodiment of heaven on earth, and 85 percent of all Indians are Hindu.

VARANASI IS BOUNDED BY A ROAD KNOWN AS Panchakosi which every devout Hindu hopes to tread at least once in their lifetime in the hope of finding salvation. This journey can only be done at certain times of the year. Pilgrims carry all of their belongings on their heads and find rest and food wherever they can along the way, mostly under trees by the roadside. Good Hindus offer food, refreshment and resting places to these pilgrims. Varanasi boasts the longest river frontage in India, with kilometres of ghats, or steps, for the pilgrims’ religious bathing.

TRY TO ARRIVE LATE AT NIGHT, GO STRAIGHT TO bed and get a very early morning call – perhaps several – so that you don’t miss the sunrise. A whole day in Varanasi is the most wonderful introduction to the sights, scents, sounds and tastes of this great multicultured country. Let India enter your ears, eyes and nostrils. Let its soul greet your soul. Let ineradicable memories form and be carried away by your feelings.

For if you submit to Varanasi from the first morning, you may appreciate why the city is so pivotal to the Hindu world.

FLOWING FROM GAUMUKH TO GANGA SAGAR, the power of the sacred Ganges, known to Hindus as Mother Ganga, is invokable and available anywhere. But nowhere are her powers as strong as they are in Varanasi.

Naked but for his "Country Cotton" Y-fronts, an old man bends down at the river's edge, murmurs his prayers and then takes out his dentures and proceeds to rinse them thoroughly in the Ganges’ holy waters. Beside him – their sarees glued to their bodies – three women submerge themselves in the river, embracing Mother Ganga with open arms. Holding their noses, they immerse themselves five times in quick succession. A baby girl screams as her grandmother shaves her head with a rusty blade, offering the child's first hair to the gods. Meanwhile a riverside barber, as yet clientless, picks clean his teeth with a mangrove root. Welcome to Varanasi.

ALONG THE BANKS OF THE GANGES, HOLY MEN perform their pujas offering prasada to the scummy waters while faeces float by. Nearby, under a sacred pipal tree, a goat is bleating. Two dogs are fighting over a bone. Monkeys scavenge rice grains being swept towards them by a toothless old woman with a broom. Vultures circle overhead. And myna birds screech from the trees.

Children play with marbles. Head masseurs and boatmen tout for work. Sat cross-legged on mats, professional renunciants dip fingers in brass pots and anoint the foreheads of bathers with vermilion and sandalwood paste, opening their third eyes for a mere rupee.

WHILE THEIR MOTHERS AND SISTERS FLOG their clothes clean on stone slabs at the waterfront, boys play cricket on the ghats beside the river. Above them, the tiered 18th century facades of the crumbling homes of former Hindi nobles and princes are draped with drying sheets and blankets and daubed with advertising for hippy guesthouses, illegible graffiti, omkara signs and directions to yoga training centres. Ash-smeared babas, also known as sadhus, watch on from sun-dazed, glassy eyes. A train, longer than the bridge itself, clatters over the 135-year-old double-decker Malviya bridge delivering a constant flow of pilgrims to Varanasi, to wash away their accumulated sins at India's most sacred spot.

THE HINDU TERM OF MOKSHA IS THE SALVATION point of enlightenment, liberation and release from the anguish of the cycle of birth and death. Because it is said that dying in the city is a sure-fire way to attain moksha, an estimated one million Hindus travel to Varanasi every year to either purify themselves in the Ganges or end their lives by the polluted waters flowing through the city. For those who die in Varanasi, eternal peace is guaranteed and enlightenment assured amidst the noisy crowds, the dust, the incense, the clangourous rickshaw bells and the raw sewerage. And there is no better place for a Hindu’s life to end than at a Varanasi guesthouse known as Mukti Bhavan.

Essentially a death hotel, Mukti Bhavan provides accommodation solely to those who wish to breathe their last in Varanasi. In the past 60 years, something like 20,000 people have died within its decaying walls.

But for people checking into Mukti Bhavan desperate to attain moksha, they have exactly two weeks to die. For if death does not come to them in a fortnight, they are politely asked to leave.

CLOSE TO THE GANGES, MEN SPEND ALL DAY splitting logs for funeral pyres. Their work never stops and is never forsaken. Downstream, a young priest offers camphor to the gods accompanied by the bedlam of double-sided drums, cymbals and the singing of devotional bhajans. Bodies arrive all day on bamboo stretchers and atop taxi roofs, accompanied to their final burning places with the traditional Hindi chant of ram naam satya hai Mourning is considered bad luck by the men who attend the funeral pyre. Women are forbidden. The deceased’s eldest son, head shaven, walks around the fire and sets it alight. It takes three hours to burn a body. In Varanasi, four hundred dead are cremated every day. The size and type of conflagration depends on your wealth. An average cremation cost 18,000 rupees.

Male corpses are swaddled in white, young women red, and old people gold. There are prescribed burning

areas for the police and army, business people and members of higher castes. Pregnant women, babies, children under twelve and victims of leprosy and smallpox are rowed into the middle of the river and tossed in with stones tied to them. The Indian government once released 25,000 flesh-eating turtles into the Ganges in an attempt to clean up its murky, corpse-ridden waters. Guides boast that the river is clean because it flows swiftly. They say that wildlife thrives in the river. The Ganges has many dolphins –or so they say.

ALSO KNOWN AS THE ‘CITY OF LIGHT’, ANYONE seeking an intensely cultural and spiritual experience should make the pilgrimage to ancient Varanasi, pay their respects to Shiva at Vishwanath temple, and experience the great cremation ground of Mahashmashana. Boasting an incredibly rich history integrated with Hindu mythology, Varanasi is the sum of thousands of years, temples and mesmerising rituals, making it a unique destination for cultured travellers to experience at least once.

TYROL AUSTRIA

wellness an unite in austria’s

THE SEAMLESS EQUILIBRIUM BETWEEN NATURE AND WELLNESS IS PROFOUNDLY PALPABLE IN AUSTRIA’S MAJESTIC TYROL, WHERE EMILY MILLETT FINDS THAT THE PICTURE-POSTCARD THIERSEE VALLEY OFFERS THE PERFECT PLACE TO ESCAPE, INSPIRE AND RESTORE

nd nature austria’s tyrol

THERE’S SOMETHING MAGICAL about the Austrian Tyrol. Up here, the air seems fresher, nature’s colours more vibrant and the energy of peace and tranquillity more intensely tangible. Crystal clear alpine streams meander through verdant valleys dotted with quaint, little villages, all set against a backdrop of forestclad mountains. In fact, these bucolic landscapes have long been revered for their arresting beauty, as well as their intrinsic link with an almost spiritual sense of holistic wellness. Whether as a place to escape everyday life, a destination to inspire and encourage natural healing, or an al fresco adventure playground for being at one with the great outdoors, the Austrian Tyrol delivers every time.

STRETCHING ALONG THE WESTERN SIDE OF Austria bounded by Salzburgerland to the east and Voralberg to the west, nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts are spoilt for choice when it comes to places to explore within this majestic region, much of which covers the Eastern Alps. From the Kitzbühel’s renowned ski slopes to the glassy depths of Lake Achensee and the numerous lush valleys of Ötztal, Brixental, Zillertal and countless more, Tyrol simply enchants in all seasons. And its charms are not only nature related. The region is also famous for its picturesque villages and culture-rich towns where age-old customs and traditions are still going strong, and distinctive local cuisine is characterised by fresh regional produce and highland influences.

ONE PARTICULARLY LOVELY SPOT, THAT has managed to stay relatively undiscovered, is the municipality of Thiersee, close to the border with Germany. Home to a series of small villages and hamlets including Landl, Hinterthiersee and Voderthiersee, the area boasts majestic mountains, gorges, lakes and rolling hills, while magnificent views sweep all the way to the larger town of Kufstein in the Inntal Valley and the Kaiser Mountain range beyond.

Throughout the area, classic Tyrolean chalets have been transformed into quaint guesthouses where visitors can enjoy an authentic taste of the area’s famous hospitality. But nowhere are such offerings more uniquely packaged and authentically delivered than multi award winning Ayurveda Resort Sonnhof in the pretty village of Hinterthiersee – the perfect complement to the surrounding environs of absolute peace and tranquillity.

Ayurveda Resort Sonnhof

IMAGE: VANMEY PHOTOGRAPHY

FOR A PLACE THAT FEELS SO SERENELY secluded and removed from the hustle and bustle of urban life, Thiersee Valley and Ayurveda Resort Sonnhof, in the town of Kufstein, are surprisingly easy to reach – just an hour by car or train from Munich or a four-hour direct train ride from Vienna Airport.

The train journey from Vienna is something of a visual treat. Dense urban cityscapes slowly give way to more pastoral panoramas, fields and meadows interrupted by placid lakes, rushing rivers and country villages marked by traditional onion-domed churches. All as the distant mountains rumble ever closer, growing in size as they close in around the landscape, as a constant reminder of the final destination’s alpine attributes.

ONCE IN THIERSEE VALLEY, THE MOUNTAINS are the perfect backdrop for year-round outdoor

exploration, as well as a fitting complement to Sonnhof’s calming energy of healing and wellness. From lake bathing in the summer to snow sports in the winter, Thiersee Valley also offers spectacular hiking throughout the year with infinite trail options for walkers of all levels.

To start gently, take the Mühlwaldrunde trail from Hinterthiersee through fragrant pine forests, past a stone meditation maze, around the farmstead of Modalwald and back. Or head to head to pretty Hinterthiersee village – the route takes walkers past a horse farm, up to tiny Kapellen chapel perched on a hilltop above the village, then along the crest of the adjacent meadows and back via the tiny hamlet of Grub. Views here extend on either side of the Thiersee Valley, towards the villages of Mitterland and Voderthiersee to the east and Landl to the west. In fact, these satellite settlements are all well worth a visit in their own right.

WELLNESS AUSTRIAN TYROL

Voderthiersee, for its lakeside setting; Landl, for traditional dining in riverside chalets and Mitterland for its easy access to the Pendling mountain trail.

AN EXHILARATING WAY TO DISCOVER THE area is on two wheels using the complementary e-bikes provided by Sonnhof. Not only do bicycles allow for greater distances to be covered in less time, the additional power provided by e-bikes makes the many lofty inclines significantly less effort to ascend!

Venture in any direction and you’ll find a plethora of routes, each one more pleasing than the next. But the loop over the over the Feuerköpfl peak has it all – from jaw-dropping valley views to pit-stops

at rustic alpine inns. Start at Langkampfen and head uphill towards Bärnbad. Pause to admire the little chapel in the beautiful clearing near the Bärnbadhaus, before heading up to the peak and down to the rolling green plateau where the alpine refuge of Höhlensteinhaus awaits. Pit stop at this traditional restaurant for a Tyrolean snack on its sunny terrace. Once satiated, head in the direction of Niederbreitenbach, over the Rudersburg peak with its viewpoint resting spot, then past the waterfall and back via Kreit.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK, EXPLORING THE hillsides above Landl, Ascherdörfl, Schmiedtal and Trojer will take you past waterfalls, wooden cottages and fields ringing out with the sound of cowbells.

Detox & Regeneration

THE POWER OF THE MOUNTAINS, THE

Soft purification, revitalizing detox, and a healing new beginning - all with respect to our mantra „I feel really good!“ Our repeatedly awarded concept of European Ayurveda ® helps to balance body, mind, and soul. You will experience a unique time-out that is perfectly tailored to your needs. The holistic symbiosis of the medical experience and expertise of many years with the traditional Indian healing philosophy will turn your stay at the European Ayurveda Resort Sonnhof into an exclusive hideaway. Located in the middle of nature on the border between Tyrol and Bavariathe perfect energetic place for the path to a healthier life.

KNOWLEDGE OF MEDICAL EXPERTS, THE HEALING EFFECTS OF EUROPEAN AYURVEDA ® .

But if you embark upon only one excursion from Sonnhof, make it a trek up Pendling mountain in the Brandenberg Alps.

Looming vertiginously above the area and covered in a dense carpet of fragrant pines, this majestic mountain is the highest in the resort’s immediate surroundings at a pinch over 1.5 kilometres high. As such, the route up can be steep and arduous in parts, albeit easier with the powered boost of a trusty e-bike. But the effort is absolutely worth every last muscle pounding pedal, since reaching the summit make way for the most spectacular 360-degree views across the valley as far as the eye can see. And here, atop the mountain, is the little traveller’s refuge of Pendlinghaus, where weary climbers can quench their thirst with a mug of ale and tuck into some Tyrolean dumplings while soaking up the sweeping panoramas. While the uphill cycle takes around an hour on an e-bike,

the return is harder on the brakes than the legs, delivering you back to Mitterland in 20 minutes or so. www.pendlinghaus.at

CULTURED TRAVELLERS LOOKING TO explore further afield can take advantage of Sonnhof’s Beecar E-Carsharing service. At just EUR 5 per hour, this affordable and eco-friendly option is more flexible than traditional car hire and makes destinations such as nearby Kufstein more accessible.

Encircled by the dramatic Wilder Kaiser mountain range and traversed by the Inn River, Kufstein is still relatively untouched by tourism, despite being locally renowned as ‘the pearl of Tyrol’. Home to a charming medieval centre and commanding fortress, Kufstein’s attractions include the famed Riedel glass factory and museum, which have been family-run for more than 250 years.

www.riedel.com/en/factory-museum

Kufstein Riedel Glass Factory

Innsbruck

FROM KUFSTEIN, DRIVE ON TO THE LOCAL gem of Hintersteiner See (lake), tucked away in the heart of the Wilder Kaiser nature reserve, above the village of Scheffau. Considered to be the cleanest of Tyrol’s mountain lakes, this crystal-clear body of water exudes a palpable air of tranquillity, with snow-capped peaks reflected in its mirror-like surface and countless shades of blue shifting from turquoise to deep indigo. Outdoor swimming enthusiasts will be in their element, while an easy trail allows hikers to soak in the spectacular lakeside vistas all-year-round.

JUST AN HOUR FROM SONNHOF BY CAR lies the capital of the elegant Tyrolian capital of Innsbruck. This baroque beauty is a rich cultural hub, where enchanting streets and squares are lined with architectural expressions of the medieval, Renaissance and Habsburg eras that shaped the city. Made his imperial capital 500 or so years ago by Emperor Maximilian I, don’t miss Innsbruck’s Innenstadt, where the old town

(Altstadt) is located. Characterised by cobbled streets and narrow winding medieval alleyways, this district is also home to upscale boutiques, galleries, restaurants and must-visit landmarks such as the gilded Golden Roof, the Gothic church of Hofkirche and the Imperial Palace with its glorious frescoed interiors.

WHETHER VISITING TO ENJOY OUTDOOR pursuits, soak in local culture or explore traditional Tyrolian gastronomy, architecture and history, in the Thiersee Valley and surrounding Tyrol, you will find a place to escape everyday life and experience a holistic wellness that is deeply rooted in the healing powers of nature. As Johann Wolfgang von Goethe wrote of Tyrol in 1829, “Here, finally, I have found a place of quiet – a place of peace the like of which I could have only wished for.” Indeed, Tyrol positively exudes absolute peace, quiet and serenity throughout, surrounding visitors with aweinspiring landscapes and magnificent views which are impossible not to surrender to.

AYURVEDA RESORT SONNHOF

HINTERTHIERSEE, AUSTRIA

NESTLED DEEP WITHIN TYROL’S SEEMINGLY ENDLESS layers of undulating green landscapes, in the village of Hinterthiersee, lies a true hospitality treasure: multi-award-winning Ayurveda Resort Sonnhof.

Over the decades since it opened, this cosy yet undeniably high-end resort has earned an internationally celebrated reputation for uniquely fusing the ancient healing of Ayurveda with authentic alpine hospitality. It’s a heady combination that leaves guests feeling invigorated, pampered and thoroughly relaxed, and it’s all down to the Mauracher family, together with its team of wellness experts and innate hospitality professionals running the property with passion, heartfelt warmth and genuine, personalised care. Of course, the resort’s picture-postcard location, on the high plateau of the Thierseetal Valley also helps, framed by oversized windows throughout giving way to breathtaking views.

Luxurious yet unpretentious in equal measure, an air of rustic Austrian chalet chic is offset by subtle Asian influences that hint at the Ayurvedic influence at the very core of the resort. With the property’s Ayurvedic centre and spa presided over by a team of experts and certified doctors, it is perhaps unsurprising that Sonnhof is renowned as one of Europe’s leading centres for Ayurvedic medicine and wellness. Onsite professionals work with guests to determine their doshas and deliver consultations, personalised dietary

plans and recommended treatments and therapies to complement their individual needs. And the menu of available treatments is extensive. From full detoxes and complimentary medicine to full body massages, scrubs and beauty treatments. Meanwhile, spa facilities include a heated indoor pool, sauna and steam rooms, relaxation spaces, a well-equipped gym and an infrared chamber. Guests can also dip in and out of a daily schedule of yoga and qigong classes, breathing and meditation workshops, singing bowl sessions and lectures.

The Ayurvedic way of life at Sonnhof even extends to the hotel’s excellent culinary offerings, which utilise fresh produce from the family’s farm to create wholesome, healthy and creatively presented fare, from bounteous breakfast spreads to five-course dinners with Ayurvedic, vegan and fish options.

Despite the plethora of outdoor adventures and rich cultural experiences one can enjoy in Tyrol, one could just as easily stay put, not leave the grounds and spend an entire week indulging in Ayurveda Resort Sonnhof’s exceptional holistic hospitality and abundance of first-class wellness offerings.

https://sonnhof-ayurveda.at

INSPIRED BY NATURE

Blending panoramic sea views with exceptional Cape cuisine, the culinary experience at The Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa takes its cue from the remarkable natural beauty surrounding the hotel. Sample freshly made sushi in the Café Gr ill, sip creative cocktails in the laid-back Leopard Bar or savour the sunset across the sparkling Atlantic Ocean from Azure Restaurant’s outdoor terrace.

Victoria Road, Camps Bay, Cape Town, 8005, South Africa

T: +27 21 4379000 | E: reservations1@12apostles.co.za

WWW.12APOSTLESHOTEL.COM

The Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa

IN THIS ISSUE, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER FOODIES HAND-PICK THE BEST RESTAURANTS

IN CAPE TOWN, VISIT A SOUTH AFRICAN GIN DISTILLERY, AND INTERVIEW A STANDOUT

IRAQI-LEBANESE-SWISS CHEF WHO HAS COOKED FOR EVERYONE FROM HIS AUNTY

ZAHA HADID TO PAVAROTTI

CAPE TOWN’S RESTAURANT SCENE

➤ SOUTH AFRICA

HOPE DISTILLERY

➤ SALTRIVER, CAPE TOWN

HUSSEIN HADID

➤ BEIRUT, LEBANON

Belly of the Beast Cape Town

CAPE

RESTAURANT SCENE

CAPE TOWN’S SPECTACULAR location at the northern end of the Cape Peninsula, in the shadow of Table Mountain, with nearvertical cliffs falling into the cold waters of the Atlantic to the city's west and the warmer Indian Ocean waters to the city’s east, make for an inimitable setting unmatched by any other metropolis on the African continent. Coupled with stunning surrounding scenery and fringed by gorgeous beaches and miles of magnificent coastline has meant that the ‘Mother City’ has been an incredibly popular tourist destination for decades.

The city was given a serious cultural boost in 2017 when the world-class Zeitz MOCAA museum was unveiled.

Chef Jason Kosmas The Pot Luck Club

TOWN

Carved into the city’s century-old grain silos by British starchitect Thomas Heatherwick, the museum is both an international architectural and cultural magnet. But nowhere is Cape Town’s global appeal more palpable than in its cosmopolitan and constantly evolving food culture.

AS THE CONTINENT’S MOST VISITED city, Cape Town has always boasted a happening restaurant scene, with an array of eateries offering a range of cuisines reflecting the many international influences which have had an indelible effect on the country’s food culture. Indeed, it was the arrival of European settlers, with their new spices and cooking methods, that led to many changes in South African food, although red meat continues to figure prominently and is still the centrepiece of most meals. This is best exemplified by the

traditional South African barbecue or braii. Short for braaivleis which means 'grilled meat' in Afrikaans, a braai is a barbecuing tradition that’s as much a South African social custom as it is a culinary event.

WITH THE CAPE WINELANDS ON ITS doorstep, surrounded by fertile farmlands and pounded by the Atlantic Ocean, it is perhaps unsurprising that Cape Town's restaurant scene is constantly buzzing with innovation, passion and originality, with talented chefs routinely making the most of the vast variety of fresh meats, fish and vegetables readily available locally. In the following pages, The Cultured Traveller visits a selection of standout restaurants that have contributed to Cape Town often being name-checked as a global gastronomic destination for globetrotting foodies.

Chef Neal Swart Belly of the Beast

Cavalli Estate

GRAND PAVILION + HARRY’S BAR

277 BEACH ROAD

➤ SEAPOINT

THERE IS ALWAYS ONE PLACE in Cape Town where diners and the young party set head to for a touch too much fun over dinner and perhaps a few too many cocktails before bedtime. That place right now is Grand Pavilion and club-like Harry’s Bar which is hidden away behind the restaurant. But Harry’s Bar is where all the fun happens.

By day, Grand Pavilion is a mid-century fusion of relaxed beach and restaurant vibes combined in a laid-back dining venue boasting views across Seapoint promenade. Unpretentious and casual, it is perfect for lunch or cocktails and chef Desmond Ntombana’s extensive menu makes the most

KLOOF STREET HOUSE

30 KLOOF STREET

➤ GARDENS

THE VERY DEFINITION OF a hidden hospitality gem and set within a gorgeous and inviting shabby-chic Victorian

of the venue’s oceanfront location with plenty of fresh fish to choose from. The Asian Oysters or West Coast Mussels are the perfect accompaniment to a bottle of sparkling South African white as the sun is slowly setting.

Once the sun has set and the evening beckons, so does Harry’s Bar with its louche, naughty vibe. The modern equivalent of a speakeasy but somewhat more spacious and opulent, Harry’s Bar

is nothing without its inimitable host, Robin Wilmans, who is often as bejewelled and covered in as many crystals as the happening venue over which he presides, complete with his bevy of gorgeous staff who are easy on the eye, incredibly well-mannered and know how to have a good time. No visit to Harry’s Bar ends quietly or soberly but you will surely enjoy every glittery moment.

www. grandpavilion.co.za

house, visiting Kloof Street House for dinner is much more than simply eating out. It is an experience as authentic, casual and as homely as one could possibly enjoy in Cape Town, complete with a happening bar and scrumptious food served by a friendly team. Down-to-earth, honest and hearty dining, rather than an opulent and haughty affair, merely walking off

the street through Kloof Street House’s gates into its secret front garden is enough to give you goosebumps, and the experience only gets better inside, where every one of its characterful interconnecting rooms and spaces is bursting with charm and usually brimming with happy, animated people.

Very popular with locals for obvious reasons, if you allow the waiters to select a wine for you they will almost always get it spot on and some very good vintages are served by the glass, including the divine 2020 Diemersdal Estate Reserve Pinotage which The Cultured Traveller sipped while tucking into an entrée of perfectly pan-seared Patagonian calamari, followed by a tender Chalmar sirloin steak, sliced and served pink with truffle mash, wild mushrooms, tender-stem broccoli and a delicious béarnaise sauce.

www. kloofstreethouse.co.za

Harry's Bar

THE TEST KITCHEN FLEDGELINGS

THE OLD BISCUIT MILL

➤ WOODSTOCK

ONE RARELY SEES THE words ‘fun’ and ‘fine-dining’ used in the same sentence to describe a restaurant, but they are absolutely appropriate here. Fronted by Sandalene Dale-Roberts and her celebrated British-born chef and husband Luke Dale-Roberts (who studied in Switzerland and England and spent five years at restaurants across Asia before landing in SA), The Test Kitchen Fledgelings quietly launched in April 2021 at 88 Shortmarket Street. Initially a pop-up upliftment initiative designed to enable ambitious young chefs to get a foot in the door of the food and beverage industry, almost two years later, TTK Fledgelings is now a muchloved and bustling permanent fixture on Cape Town’s restaurant scene, occupying the Biscuit Mill

premises in Woodstock which were formally home to DaleRoberts’ flagship eatery, The Test Kitchen, which closed towards the end of 2021.

TTK Fledgelings is no ordinary restaurant, however. What sets it apart from the rest of the city's restaurant scene (apart from the wonderfully eclectic background music and all-round funky vibe) is that TTK Fledgelings is essentially a live, hands-on culinary training ground for those willing to put in the hard work to potentially carve out a future career for themselves in the hospitality industry. The fledgelings are mentored on-the-job by professional chefs and front of house staff from Dale-Roberts’ other restaurants. And while they are learning their trade and gleaning knowledge from industry experts and established professionals, the fledgelings are earning a salary and are continuously developed and up-skilled. The result is

both a positive place for everyone working at TTK Fledgelings and a vibrant destination venue for diners to enjoy a first-class, unpretentious meal in happy, uplifting surroundings.

The food served is creative, fresh and moreish – literally everything that The Cultured Traveller sampled was utterly delicious. The service is swift, friendly and unassuming, with most of the down-to-earth waiting staff being simply delightful. Prices are very reasonable for the quality of food. And the crowd traverses all age ranges and includes tourists and locals alike.

https://ttkfledgelings.co.za

TASTE & SIP RESTAURANT SCENE

CAVALLI ESTATE

SOMERSET WEST

SOMERSET WEST IS BARELY a 40-minute drive from Cape Town and Cavalli Estate is the perfect excuse to leave the city to spend a leisurely afternoon dining and drinking in the beautiful Helderberg region of Stellenbosch, surrounded by vineyards and fynbos gardens. Also something of a South African ecological triumph, the estate’s photovoltaic panels harvest solar energy, geothermal systems regulate the restaurant’s heating and cooling and wastewater is recycled back into the estate’s gardens. So despite thousands of people visiting Cavalli year-round, the estate doesn’t create a carbon footprint. Cavalli’s restaurant was also the first in the country to be Green-star accredited for sustainability. Indeed, as MD Lauren Smith explains, “From the vineyards to the landscaping to the public spaces, the ethos of the estate revolves entirely around sustainability.”

Located beneath the restaurant, Cavalli’s sexy underground tasting room is open to the public five days per week and offers a number of reasonably-priced wine tasting packages. During the winter months, the plush space can also be privately booked for groups to sip wines around the fireplace. On the same level at the tasting room, Cavalli’s somewhat hidden contemporary art gallery is one of the Cape Winelands' best kept secrets, and promotes local artists via its gallery space and sculpture spots dotted throughout the property.

Celebrated for its style by South Africa's prestigious Eat Out Awards, Cavalli’s restaurant is fresh, airy and elegantly executed with panache. Throughout the space, plentiful natural light and

clean lines give way to cool, modern furnishings which are contemporary yet inviting and functional. Very much the social epicentre of the estate, the restaurant takes full advantage of Cavalli’s spectacular setting, with floor-to-ceiling glazed doors opening onto to an expansive terrace. Guests dining al fresco enjoy 180-degree vistas across a tranquil lake, verdant gardens and leafy vineyards, complete with artfully presented, flavourful and hearty fare courtesy of chef Lucas Carsten, that honours the seasons and makes the best use of the estate’s vegetable gardens. Married with some of the delectable wines produced on the estate makes visiting Cavalli a relaxed and elegant way to spend a gastronomic afternoon just a short drive from Cape Town.

https://cavalliestate.com/dining

Chef Lucas Carsten

TASTE & SIP RESTAURANT SCENE

FYN 37 PARLIAMENT STREET ➤ CBD

SINCE OPENING IN 2019, FYN has gleaned a loyal following and a litany of accolades, including being placed at number 37 on the 2022 World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, which is something of an achievement for a restaurant which is not yet four years old, more than two years of which were dominated by the Covid pandemic.

Channelling a distinctly downtown Manhattan feel courtesy of a sharp, design-led interior design aesthetic, it is not just the sophisticated menu that skilfully marries South African and Japanese flavours which currently makes FYN one of Cape Town’s most popular restaurants, but also a superlative front of house team, led by Jennifer Hugé, which deftly delivers a fine-dining experience with a friendly and relaxed edge.

Positioned five floors up on the corner of Church Square and Parliament Street in the heart of Cape Town’s CBD, the doubleheight dining room is dominated by a show-stopping Japanese abacus-inspired art installation by German craftsman Christoph Karl, whose strings of wooden discs fill the ceiling above the tables and kitchen, while a sultry darkness permeates the walls and floors. It’s fine dining with a chic disco edge.

FYN's menu follows a kaisekistyle multi-course dining concept and is packed with interesting dishes courtesy of much-lauded chef Peter Tempelhoff and the restaurant’s tattooed culinary director Ashley Moss. If you opt

for the 7-course tasting menu, expect to start with an exquisite bento box of delectable bite-sized canapés, every one as delicious as the other, followed by a Hokkaido milk bun served with a divine burnt mushroom custard. A kaiseki tray of slightly larger portions forms the next course, which is followed by the meal’s star attraction of Hoba grilled wagyu. Literally every plate served to The Cultured Traveller was delectable and every wine paired perfectly with each course. Unfaultable from start-to-finish, for a seasoned and well-travelled gourmand, no visit to Cape Town is complete without dining at FYN, which is wholly deserving of all the praise it is currently receiving. https://fynrestaurant.com

BELLY OF THE BEAST

110 HARRINGTON STREET ➤ CITY CENTRE

THE BRAINCHILD OF CHEFS

Anouchka Horn and Neil Swart, who met in 2010 in the kitchen of Terroir Restaurant in Stellenbosch, Belly of the Beast offers secret, changing and seasonal tasting menus for lunch and dinner in their 30-seater modern-industrial yet warm and inviting dining room. A completely open kitchen lines one side of the restaurant opposite a bank of street-facing windows. Guests are seated in between and served every course by the chefs and their friendly waiting staff, making for a personal and involved dining experience which is very popular with locals and tourists alike. There are no menu options or set number of courses – although dietary requirements are catered

THE POT LUCK CLUB

THE OLD BISCUIT MILL

➤ WOODSTOCK

ONE OF CAPE TOWN’S MOST enduring and year-round popular eateries, The Pot Luck Club seemingly floats above Cape Town’s

for by prior notice, Horn and Swart essentially decide what you eat and often drop surprises into service. Everything that comes out of their kitchen has been developed, created and taste-tested by Horn and Swart, including the wine pairings, and they want diners to taste everything. And pretty much everything is beyond tasty! Reservations are exclusively made online, allowing Horn and Swart to focus on the food and

beverages. Dining at Belly of the Beast for dinner is a longer and more leisurely affair and can be preceded by a cocktail, as long as you arrive well before the 6.45pm start time, when dishes start flying out of the busy kitchen. Unmissable for a dedicated gourmand, dining at Belly of the Beast should be close to the top of your Cape Town hit list.

https://bellyofthebeast.co.za

funky Woodstock district on the sixth floor of a former silo, presiding over the entire Old Biscuit Mill complex. Boasting a relaxed, New York loft-style feel, expansive windows around the perimeter of the spacious 120 seat dining room provide panoramic vistas of the ocean,

port, city, Table Mountain and Lion’s Head. An open-plan kitchen illuminated by studio lighting gives the impression of a stage for talented head chef Jason Kosmas to create his culinary magic and prepare a menu of moreish sharing and tasting dishes which draw inspiration from South America to Southeast Asia. A handful of dishes skillfully reflect Kosmas’ Greek/ Italian heritage. Staff are friendly and engaging and there are no airs and graces at the Pot Luck, which often sells-out two sittings every night of the week, especially during high season, so reserving well in advance is a must. Sunday brunch is especially popular and includes a bottomless DIY Bloody Mary bar where you can assemble and guzzle as many as you wish!

https://thepotluckclub.co.za

NOBU CAPE TOWN

ONE&ONLY CAPE TOWN

SET WITHIN THE ONE&ONLY hotel complex, which is perched on the edge of Cape Town's buzzing V&A Waterfront district, the Cape Town outpost of Nobu Matsuhisa’s global restaurant brand has been welcoming guests for more than 14 years yet has remained a popular dining destination for locals and international guests alike, not least because the quality of the Japanese-Peruvian fusion fare served is top notch and the service is lightning fast.

The sprawling restaurant spans two floors and includes private booths both upstairs and down, the upper level’s overlooking the double-height main dining room. After arriving, kick-off with a lychee martini (or two) and

some nibbles at the bar upstairs, before descending the stairs and taking a seat to enjoy the culinary action. For the best view in the house or if you happen to be dining alone, pull up a stool at the sushi bar at the far end of the dining room and watch talented

head chef Prajal Rana strut his culinary stuff while feasting on a flurry of exquisitely presented dishes, including wagyu beef tacos to start and not forgetting the signature black cod dish for which Nobu is famous the world over.

https://oneandonlyresorts.com/cape-town

AUBERGINE

39 BARNET STREET

➤ GARDENS

SOMETHING OF A CAPE TOWN culinary icon and somewhat hidden in plain sight on narrow Barnet Street in Gardens neighbourhood, Aubergine is a relaxed, fine dining institution helmed by German chef-patron Harald Bresselschmidt, who cut his teeth at the likes of The Savoy in London. Housed within the confines of a historic house said to date back to 1830, the dining room oozes character

which is perfectly in keeping with the warm and lovingly prepared cuisine served within. Prepared by Bresselschmidt himself, dishes are fed by two organic kitchen gardens and include à la carte dishes and summer small-plate lunches to a full dégustation menu. Aubergine also boasts one of the best wine lists in the city, which showcases small local producers, a range of champagnes and some rare South African vintages. www. aubergine.co.za

VISIT ZEITZ MOCAA

Located in Cape Town, South Africa, the iconic Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (Zeitz MOCAA) exhibits, collects, preserves and researches contemporary art from Africa and its diaspora; conceives and hosts international exhibitions; develops supporting educational, discursive and enrichment programmes; encourages intercultural understanding; and strives for access for all. Spanning over 9,500sqm of customdesigned exhibition space, the museum’s award-winning architecture is carved out of 42 disused industrial grain silos and boasts a breath-taking atrium. Venture to its sixth-floor restaurant, Ocular Lounge, before heading outdoors to the rooftop terrace with 270-degree views across Table Mountain, Table Bay Harbour and the city. The museum also sports a Centre for Art Education, Gantry Café and a museum shop where you can make purchases inspired by past and current exhibitions.

zeitzmocca.museum

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU MEETS A COUPLE OF FORMER HIGHFLYING LONDON LAWYERS WHO ARE TODAY AT THE FOREFRONT OF THE GIN CRAZE IN THE COSMOPOLITAN CITY OF CAPE TOWN

EXPERIENCE

HOPE DISTILLERY

DESPITE MANY believing that it would tail off, the global gin renaissance of the past decade or so continues apace, no doubt somewhat fuelled by the Covid pandemic, which turned half of the world into alcoholics and saw many wine and spirit suppliers run out of stock. Now that we are post pandemic, the gin segment of the worldwide alcohol market is projected to continue growing, by some 7.5% from now until 2027, so it is only natural that distillers are keenly competing for a larger slice of the pie.

PERHAPS WITH THE EXCEPTION of the UK, few countries produce as many gins as South Africa, where it is estimated that more than 500 different gins are currently distilled, largely to feed local consumers who are keen to be seen wearing the right clothing brands, driving the right cars and consuming the most fashionable drinks. Indeed, gin is now the second most popular spirit in South Africa, having overtaken vodka years ago. But out of the hundreds of gins produced in SA (many of which do not survive for long), perhaps no more than 50 are of the same high standard as the best craft gins produced in the UK and Europe.

CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA

Leigh Lisk and Lucy Beard

WHILST GINS CAN BE MADE FROM a variety of base spirits – such as wheat, cane, grape or barley – the unifying characteristics of gin, no matter where it is produced, is that it must be flavoured with juniper. What gives a craft gin its unique taste, is the combination of botanicals that are added to the mix, including flowers, leaves, roots, barks, fruits and berries. This is where South African gins shine, for the best of them incorporate some of the unique plants that are indigenous to only South Africa, in particular those which grow in the beautiful Cape of Good Hope and its coastal surrounds, located around 60 kilometres from Cape Town. In fact, so exotic and distinctive are the plants which grow in this area, that they fall under their own floristic designation, named the Cape Floral Kingdom.

INSCRIBED ON THE WORLD

Heritage list almost two decades ago for being one of the world’s great centres of terrestrial biodiversity, while the Cape Floral Kingdom is the smallest of just six such recognised geographical regions in the world, it features the most diverse range of plant species of any of them. And of more than 9,000 plant types which grow in the area, more than 6,000 species are endemic, meaning that you won’t find them anywhere else on the planet. Known collectively as Cape Fynbos, this is veritable manna from heaven for budding gin makers, on top of which, the wider nation boasts a wealth of outstanding flora, some of which is also rare.

OF COURSE, IT IS NOT EASY TO

make a good gin, irrespective of the array of botanicals readily available, which is perhaps why so many South African producers routinely try and fail. But one couple are successfully leading and actively working with South Africa's gin industry, and not only distilling their

own rather excellent gins but are also distilling a number of gins for clients.

THEY ARE SOUTH AFRICAN husband-and-wife team, Lucy Beard and Leigh Lisk, who lived and worked as high-flying London lawyers for many years, until they ditched their corporate lifestyles in search of something different. In 2013, during a year off road-tripping around southern Europe and Morocco in a camper van, they decided to turn their hands to distilling, inspired by the Spanish gin craze which was just beginning to peak.

ASIDE FROM LEIGH OWNING A student pub in the small South African university city of Grahamstown (which is where they met), the couple knew very little about the drinks industry other than serving and consuming! So setting-up their own distillery in Cape Town, before the world of craft gin was well known to the South African market, was something of a baptism of fire.

DESPITE A DISTINCT LACK OF understanding around the legal requirements to distil spirits in South Africa, Hope was the first distillery to be licensed by the City of Cape Town and opened in 2014. Even Hope’s Salt River location is funky, on the edge of the constantly evolving Woodstock neighbourhood, where hipster cafés,

veggie eateries and galleries occupy old factories covered with street art and murals.

TODAY, THE COUPLE DISTIL A wide range of gins, for themselves under the Hope brand and for others under contract. And what started as taking on just one client gin to help cover overheads and to keep the distillery running, has turned into something of a business, not to mention a means to experiment with different botanicals and develop different recipes from their constantly growing knowledge and increasing mastery of botanicals. Today, 20 different gins are produced at Hope Distillery and no two gins are alike, ranging from their own relatively straightforward classic London dry, to Southern Cross Gin which is the complex result of 21 botanicals and three different types of water.

The Cultured Traveller’s favourite of the distillery’s own brand gins is its 100% natural Hope African Botanical. Infused with fynbos from the coastal regions and dunes of the Cape Floral Kingdom, including kapokbos (a wild rosemary) and buchu (a highly fragrant fynbos shrub), the gin is aromatic yet not overpowering and the flavour profile is deliciously distinct and moreish.

RECENTLY DELEGATING A chunk of responsibility to Hope’s stillman Ranga Mlambo – who passed the Institute of Brewing & Distilling General Certificate in Distilling exams with flying colours, during lockdown –has freed up Lucy and Leigh to focus on other areas of the business, not least the launch of Hope’s new cocktail lounge just a few months ago: StrangeLove overlooks the distillery floor, and offers a carefully curated combination of hand-crafted cocktails paired with small bites served as three courses.

The addition of StrangeLove to Hope’s offerings has markedly transformed 7 Hopkins Street from a relatively underthe-radar distillery and tasting rooms into a must-visit Cape Town destination for gin aficionados, foodies and cocktail lovers alike.

www.hopedistillery.co.za

Leigh Lisk

INTERVIEW

hussein hadid

THE INTERNATIONAL IRAQI-LEBANESE-SWISS CHEF AND BORN HOST HAS COOKED FOR EVERYONE FROM HIS AUNTY ZAHA HADID TO MADONNA AND PAVAROTTI. HERE HE CHATS TO NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU AND KELLY HADDAD ABOUT HIS FAMILY HERITAGE, HIS MIDDLE EASTERN ROOTS AND A CULINARY JOURNEY SPANNING THREE DECADES AND MANY CONTINENTS

As a child, was there a lot of cooking in the Hadid home?

Both sides of my family, the Hadids and the Es Saids recognised the need to regularly unite around a table to indulge in good food and conversation. In my free time, I would spend hours observing and tasting the food that was being prepared. We had so many great cooks, but foremost was Isabelle from Armenia, who made simply divine food for us. There was also Chafika, our housekeeper, who made a deliciously soft marble cake that would be kept hidden from everybody for my sister Rana and I to eat.

Did your family do a lot of hosting?

We spent a lot of time at the summer home of my grandparents who loved to entertain, and we were always dressed-up and ready to eat! My grandmother, Salwa Es Said, was president of Lebanon’s historic Baalbeck International Festival, she entertained all the artists who visited Lebanon to perform and so, by default, I was exposed to cultural events filled with music and good food from an early age. I watched my family receive many famous and important guests from around the world and my grandmother had a great impact on me as a child. There is an art and authenticity to successful hospitality and my family did it impeccably, with simplicity and elegance married with lots of warmth and love.

Your favourite foods as a child?

I loved to eat! But picking one favourite food is a little difficult for me. Growing up in Beirut, I loved home cooking, especially traditional Lebanese food and any dishes with yoghurt on the side. With the outbreak of the Civil War, we moved to London where I was exposed to many more cuisines and my palette was greatly expanded. Since no one cooked for me like they did at home, I became independent when I began to board at Gordonstoun School, and started to venture into international street food culture, regularly eating all kinds of cuisines, which developed my culinary knowledge.

What prompted you to pursue a career in finance?

My grandfather, Mohammad Hadid, was Iraq’s minister of finance and the first Arab to attend the London School of Economics. My dad, Haytham Hadid, was an economic consultant and attended Cambridge University. So it felt natural to follow in the path of the men in the Hadid family. But once I was immersed in the world of finance, I quickly discovered that my passions were food and cooking.

At the time, there was talk of me going into hotel management, but I didn’t know what was involved, so it was easier and safer choice to stay in finance. Perhaps I felt pressured to please my traditional-minded father and grandfather. It wasn’t easy being the only son carrying the Hadid surname!

And your sudden switch to making cooking your profession?

Nothing great comes easy in life. Finance was my first choice, but I was not happy. The 1987 US stock market crash was a sign for me to change and gave me a chance to live out my dream of being around food in the hospitality industry. I reached out to a cousin in London who had opened an upscale Lebanese deli and asked to help set it up. The will to

there is an art and authenticity to successful hospitality and my family did it impeccably

start from scratch and learn was my motivation and inspired me to take my food career to the next level. Then I travelled to the States to work with another relative who was managing a food service operation in Allentown. This was something of an eye opener on many levels because I realised how food transcended into all industries, and I learnt that food can heal and make people feel good. The more I worked, the more I wanted to be a person who made people feel happy through food.

Luckily, one of the best cities in the world to train as a chef was a two-hour drive away, so I headed to New York and enrolled on an intensive training course at the French Culinary Institute. After completing the course, I worked back in Allentown, until I was offered a job as a chef at San Domenico, which was one of the most renowned Italian restaurants in the city at that time and owned by famed restaurateur, Tony May, who was pivotal in bringing quality Italian fare to the Big Apple. Moving to New York was life changing for me. It’s a tough city, but it set me up and I loved it!

Which chefs influenced your cooking?

Chefs like Alain Sailhac and Jacques Pépin influenced my early career. Theo Shoenegger was my teacher and is

the person I owe most to, along with Tony May who taught me about Italian cuisine. Today, my cooking is heavily influenced by French and Italian cuisines as well as by my Arab and Mediterranean roots.

You have cooked for everyone from your celebrated aunty Zaha Hadid, to probably the greatest opera singer the world has ever seen, Luciano Pavarotti. Is the pressure greater when cooking for a celebrity?

I focus my mind on cooking a meal that will please and think little of the pressure. With every guest, the better you understand their needs, the better the service is.

My aunty Zaha loved the tender shoulder of lamb that I’d make for her, with pomegranate sauce, served with aromatic and fluffy basmati rice.

Because she lived in London, she always missed the Middle Eastern cuisine she grew up with.

Cooking for Pavarotti was definitely a highlight of my three years at San Domenico NYC. The need to maintain a healthy voice meant that he always ordered chicken noodle soup. After a long concert at the Met, the team would prepare his favourite Spaghetti alla Chitarra con Pomodoro, followed by a mushroom risotto and ending with a whole prime rib of beef for one. Being an operatic tenor took a lot out of Pavarotti energy-wise, thus his extreme hunger after a concert.

Do you feel that cutting your teeth in New York set you up well for the future?

Absolutely. New York has a way of building you up and equally breaking

you down, and I needed the harshness of the city’s culture to become disciplined and fight for my art – for something bigger than myself. I believe that my true grit drove me to succeed.

What motivated your 1995 return to your home country of Lebanon?

My family and my heritage. In order to be the international chef I envisioned, I needed to return to my roots and cook with the ingredients I had known since my childhood. And it was time for me to take what I learnt in New York and apply it in Beirut.

How was the Beirut food scene at that time?

Lebanon was still raw and Beirut’s food scene was beginning to grow, with Bechara Nammour at the forefront of the city’s restaurant scene. He created concepts that the Lebanese community was in dire need of, including an American steakhouse, a French bistro, an Italian trattoria and a traditional Lebanese restaurant. His concepts educated the city via the international chefs he brought to Beirut to helm them. Lebanese people began to embrace foreign cuisine more, which paved the way for others to invest in the hospitality sector.

My expertise in French and Italian cuisine couldn’t have come at a better

time for the food scene in Beirut. I saw an opportunity to fill a space by providing a high-end, personalised catering service to clients’ homes, and staging lunches and dinners in the Hussein Hadid Kitchen.

The Lebanese are known to enjoy eating and socializing. Are you a born entertainer? Entertainer is a big word. I like to please. It’s in my blood to exude warmth and joy through my food when I am hosting. It is a trait that runs in the family. My mother taught my sister Rana and I how to host. I cook, Rana does her magic with flower arrangements and the set-up of the kitchen and table and my wife Zeina receives the guests. It’s a team effort and a family affair at the Hussein Hadid Kitchen in Beirut. Once I am done cooking, I enjoy chit-chatting with the guests.

You effectively set-up shop in your mother’s home in Beirut. Unknowingly, my mother had bought two plots of land close to our family home. She was plotting my return and envisioned a kitchen in our compound. By early 1998, a professional, state-ofthe-art kitchen had been built which became my working home. It was my chance to do what I always wanted and dreamed of doing and I am forever grateful to my mother for this.

Your ‘chef’s table’ really is a table in the middle of your kitchen?

Yes! I created a concept called the Kitchen Table Experience, where I can host up to 30 seated guests at a table in my kitchen. I was inspired by the way my family would entertain as I was growing-up, and I wanted to entertain in a similar fashion within my kitchen. The arts of setting a table and floral design play a huge role in the experience, so without my sister Rana, the Kitchen Table Experience would not be possible.

Have you ever wanted to open your own restaurant?

My time in New York made me realise that restaurant life was not for me.

i create seasonal dishes that are bursting with flavours yet simple and elegant in their presentation

It was draining and took too much energy out of me. My private catering business in Beirut means that I can host guests for an experience in my kitchen, cook for people in their homes around Lebanon, or consult for clients overseas.

The first meal you prepared as a professional chef in Beirut?

Upon returning to Lebanon from the States, my mother wanted to introduce me to her Lebanese friends and test the waters with my cooking. I prepared a chilled fava bean soup, homemade Uovo in Raviolo with ricotta and spinach, Parmigiano Reggiano and hazelnut butter, risotto with caramelised baby onions in a balsamic glaze, and a classic tiramisu.

Chefs are notoriously temperamental. Have you ever lost your rag in the kitchen?! Chefs are often misunderstood for our tempers and tendencies to shout in the kitchen. I have definitely yelled in the kitchen out of frustration, especially when extremely time pressured. To me the kitchen is like an army operation, especially the last 20 minutes before it’s time to serve. Everything must be synchronized so that the food is not only good and presentable, but that it also gets out on time.

Why do you think that Levantine cuisine is becoming more popular globally?

Dieticians and nutritionists believe that Levantine cuisine is one of the healthiest in the world, thanks to its emphasis on vegetables, rice and grains, alongside olive oil, spices and all manner of nuts and dried fruits. Also, Levantine cuisine offers more vegan and vegetarian options, which cater to more people.

What’s your core cooking philosophy? My philosophy revolves around quality, simplicity and beauty. I create seasonal dishes that are bursting with flavours yet simple and elegant in their presentation. There is always a comfort in my cooking and I believe that guests feel it through my food.

Your favourite ingredients to cook with?

Bou Sfeir, which is a unique citrus fruit that is highly flavoursome. Sumac, to add a lemony zest. Zaatar I sprinkle on anything! Pomegranate juice in vinaigrettes and pomegranate molasses

I drizzle on salads. Fava beans and green chickpeas to eat raw or throw into salads. When in season, porcini mushrooms and white truffles for pastas and risottos. Grape syrup is a healthy sweetener. And mastika for deserts.

One of your most popular dishes?

Truffled goat meat tartare or Habra Nayyeh which means ‘raw meat’ in Arabic. It’s a very traditional Lebanese dish, but I made it my own following my travels to the Italian city of Alba, where raw meats are often eaten and white truffles are revered. I shave white truffles over the goat meat tartare and top with grated Parmigiano Reggiano. It’s my most sought-after dish!

When you are not working, who does the cooking in the Hadid household?

My lovely wife Zeina, who cooks very traditional homemade Lebanese cuisine including Laban Immo, Shish Barak, Daoud Basha and many more delicious dishes. The kids and I are lucky to have her.

it’s in my blood to exude warmth and joy through my food when I am hosting

How do you relax after a long day in the kitchen?

I love to spend time at home watching movies with my family. When I can, I also play tennis, in an attempt to workoff all the food I taste on a daily basis!

Do you enjoy traveling to different countries to cook?

Very much so. When I returned to Beirut and established myself, I was presented with many opportunities to cook in Europe, including at Hotel Longemalle in Geneva and Prince de Galles hotel in Paris. I still do a lot of work in Geneva today.

Which cities do you most love to visit for their food?

London, Paris, Alba and New York City all inspire me since there is always something happening in their culinary scenes.

The devastating port blast affected everyone in Beirut. How did it affect you and your family?

4th August 2020 was the worst day for the Lebanese people and it was a slap in the face after the 2019 economic crisis. I was very fortunate that my family was away in the mountains at the time of the explosion, but many of our friends experienced otherwise. Due to the initial shock we all experienced, it took a few days for everyone to comprehend the seriousness of what had happened. We were all hurt and affected by what we saw: the deaths, the injuries, the destruction and the refusal of our government to react. The date is forever ingrained in us as Lebanese.

The Lebanese are very resilient people. Do you feel that Beirut is bouncing back? Despite all the chaos, Lebanon always seems to manage. How? I have no clue, other than the fact that the Lebanese people are strong and resourceful. Without this mindset, I don’t think Lebanon would bounce back as many times as it has in the past few decades. Moving forwards, we desperately need a stable economy in order for Beirut’s restaurant scene and Lebanon’s hospitality industry to thrive once again. https:// husseinhadid.com

WAS AWARE OF VIVIENNE

Westwood long before we met. How could I not be? I was a teenager during the late ’70s and early ’80s. Her influence was everywhere, from punk rock and the Sex Pistols to her pirate collection and Adam and the Ants. Without Westwood, the New Romantics might never have existed and the youth cults I grew up with would have looked very different indeed.

WHEN I MOVED TO

London to study for a degree in the mid ’80s, one of the first things I did was make the pilgrimage to King’s Road and gaze through the windows of her famous shop at World’s End. I was too intimidated – and too strapped for cash – to even think about venturing in. By this point, Westwood was one of the UK’s leading fashion designers – a position she would maintain until her death in December 2022, aged 81. But it wasn’t the grand dame of British fashion I first met in the early ’90s. It was the cousin of the mother of a man I happened to work with.

THE VIVIENNE I MET WAS DOWN TO EARTH, full of fun and still lived in a council flat in Clapham. She came to my rented flat in Stockwell for dinner, drank rather a lot of wine and cycled home afterwards. She invited me to a bonfire night party at her place and we danced around the fire to Elvis Presley records, which she played on an old record player. Later, she insisted that my friend and I escort her new husband Andreas to the local gay bar, The Two Brewers. But where did this extraordinary woman come from, who led such an unconventional life and left such an indelible impression on British fashion?

VIVIENNE ISABEL SWIRE WAS BORN IN Derbyshire and spent her teenage years in Harrow. She studied at teacher training college and became a primary school teacher before meeting Malcolm McLaren and setting up shop in King’s Road, where she began by making clothes for Teddy Boys. The infamous shop went through many incarnations – including Let It Rock, and Too Fast To Live, Too Young To Die –before settling on Sex. By now Westwood had swapped drape jackets and drainpipes for fetish gear and bondage trousers. She made mohair jumpers with knits so big you could see through them. She made T shirts with seams on the outside, decorated with zips, chains and safety pins. Arguably the most iconic of all punk accessories, safety pins were a symbol everyone could afford – whether they shopped at Sex or not. It was at the shop that the Sex Pistols were first formed. And the rest, as they say, is history.

fashion is very important. it is lifeenhancing and like everything that gives pleasure it is worth doing well

Vivienne Westwood

rebel without a pause

IN A CAREER WHICH SPANNED SIX DECADES,  VIVIENNE WESTWOOD  RESHAPED BRITISH CULTURE. FROM GODMOTHER OF PUNK TO QUEEN OF THE PARIS CATWALKS, HER DESIGNS WERE ALWAYS PROVOCATIVE, OFTEN OUTLANDISH, SOMETIMES RIDICULED BUT NEVER BORING.  PAUL BURSTON  LOOKS BACK AT THE CAREER OF A TRUE BRITISH ECCENTRIC AND A WOMAN WHO LIVED BY HER OWN RULES RIGHT UP UNTIL HER DEATH

HISTORY WAS HUGELY IMPORTANT TO Westwood. It fuelled her imagination. Self-taught, she learned how to design clothes by tearing old garments apart to see how they were put together. “Rip it up and start again”, as the song goes. And she often looked to history for inspiration for her designs, from 1981’s hugely influential pirate collection to the mini crinolines and bustles of later years.

As her career progressed, she moved away from street style and youth culture and focused more on traditional tailoring techniques and British fabrics, adding her own signature style. It was tartan with a twist. She developed a taste for corsetry and took inspiration from 17th and 18th century art. It was at this stage in her career that we first met. I later interviewed her for Attitude magazine and still have the Christmas card she sent me that year.

VIVIENNE WAS A GIFT TO INTERVIEW –endlessly quotable and provocative. “The mark of a middle class person is that they see no value in art beyond what it is supposed to bring on the market,” she told me. She revelled in what some would call elitism, insisting that “the problem is that not enough people nowadays find time to cultivate anything that could properly be described as taste. Popular culture is a contradiction in terms.” She also spoke about ecology. “Everyone knows that we are in the middle of an ecological crisis. What they don’t realise is that the cultural crisis is just as acute, and just as chronic.”

popular culture is a contradiction in terms. if it's popular it's not culture

Vivienne Westwood

THE ONE THING SHE DIDN’T WANT TO TALK about , certainly not at length, was the thing for which she was most famous – fashion. Eventually I got her to sum up her aesthetic. “I like feminine touches in menswear,” she told me. “It’s all about playing with the polarities of masculine and feminine, and with ideas about dress and undress. I’ve said this before, but fashion is about eventually being naked. I still think that sums it up quite well. Fashion is all about the body. I know a lot of people probably see fashion as a very trivial thing, and I do think you run the risk of sounding pretentious if you make claims to try and change the world through fashion. But I believe that my clothes are a criticism of mediocrity and orthodoxy. So it’s fine if people object to my clothes for whatever reason, or even poke fun at them. At least they’re saying something.”

what i'm always trying to say to the consumer is: buy less, choose well, make it last

Vivienne Westwood

Westwood with her husband, Andreas Kronthaler

WESTWOOD’S CATWALK SHOWS WERE ALWAYS a talking point. In 1993, her Anglomania show at Paris Fashion Week made world headlines when Naomi Campbell tripped and fell in her towering nine-inch Westwood heels. Westwood’s clothes were certainly statement pieces, but they weren’t always easy to wear – even for a professional like Naomi.

The Anglomania collection was followed by Café Society, which saw Westwood reappropriating the traditional make-up and hairstyles of the Elizabethan era and placing them on the world’s top supermodels. I had the privilege of seeing the show first-hand and watching Kate Moss strut her stuff in a mini crini and not a lot else.

ONE EPISODE SUMS UP MY PERSONAL experience of Westwood better than any other. In 1994, I accompanied her to the Stonewall Group’s annual Equality Show bash at the Royal Albert Hall. The organisers had expressly banned me from attending the after party, as I’d recently criticised Stonewall in a column for London listing magazine, Time Out. Vivienne was aggrieved on my behalf, arguing that campaigning for diversity without allowing for diversity of opinion was hypocritical in the extreme. She insisted that I escort her to the party, where she was guest of honour. She was wearing a dress with a long train, and as we approached the venue, I noticed that the train was littered with cigarette butts and other debris from the dirty London streets. I pointed this out to her and offered to clean it off. “Don’t be silly, Paul!” she replied. “Fashion isn’t meant to be hygienic!”

Westwood with Naomi Campbell

Westwood with Paul McCartney

OVER THE YEARS, WESTWOOD’S VIEWS ON fashion attracted ridicule as well as respect. She was often mocked for her eccentricities and openly laughed at on television chat shows. But she took it all in her stride and stayed true to her vision, which is what made her such an important figure in the first place. Who else would accept an OBE from the Queen, then give the press photographers a twirl, revealing that she wasn’t wearing any knickers? Who else would align herself with climate change campaigners while profiting from an industry hardly renowned for its environmental credentials?

LATER IN LIFE, SHE ENCOURAGED PEOPLE to buy less but to buy better – and by ‘better’ she meant clothes designed by Vivienne Westwood. Like many great artists, she was a mass of contradictions – anti-establishment yet unashamedly elitist, a punk provocateur whose clothes were only affordable to those on higher incomes, a fashion designer who fell into fashion more by accident than design.

“I did it to help Malcolm, basically,” she once told me. Had she not made it as a designer, she said she’d have quite liked to have been a writer of fiction. As for the charge that she had somehow sold out, she was defiant. “I know some people think that what I’m doing now means I’ve calmed down, that I’ve gone over to something more established. I don’t think that at all. Society needs its orthodox rebels, to prove that there is some sort of free society. I mean, we still have people trying to look like James Dean! And when you see punks now, it’s all become so petrified. It’s all one look. It wasn’t like that in the beginning. There were a lot of different fashions that all happened in the space of about six months, then they disappeared. People got tired of it, and so they went on to something else –the truly innovative people, that is.”

Westwood in 2021

prince charles is definitely my hero; he uses his position to do only good in this world

Vivienne Westwood

suite with a view

TOO HOTEL OPENED IN THE City of Lights in October 2022, uniting two of France’s most iconic design names – Jean Nouvel and Philippe Starck – with entrepreneur and hospitality visionnaire, Laurent Taïeb.

TOO occupies floors 17 through 24 atop one of Jean Nouvel’s acclaimed Tours Duo skyscrapers in the 13th arrondissement. Meanwhile Philippe Starck fashioned the hotel, inventing his own take on modernity through the mixing of natural

materials with gleaming chrome and the latest cutting-edge technology.

ON TOO’S HIGHEST FLOORS, THE HOTEL’S

Eiffel Tower Deluxe Junior Suites, of which there are eight, boast sweeping, panoramic views from an over-sized bed and decadent bathtub, with every Starck-designed detail drawing upon contrasts and playing around with variations and the unexpected. And since the bed does not touch the walls, it feels like you are floating above the incredible view when lying down. https://toohotel.com

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