The Cultured Traveller, June-August 2023 Issue 42

Two stunning Maldivian islands. One unique Raffles resort. And service like no other

Diving in the Indian Ocean off the coast of the Maldives

48 THE ULTIMATE INDIAN OCEAN BEACH ESCAPE

Synonymous with over water villas, mesmerising diving and unrivalled luxury, the Maldives firmly remains an incomparable destination. With numerous resorts now competing to offer guest experiences beyond the expected, Dawn Gibson-Fawcett checks out five of the best.

81 A HOSPITALITY SYMBOL OF RESILIENCE AND REBIRTH

A Beirut landmark for more than six decades, Lisa Jerejian explores a legendary hotel that epitomises the enduring spirit and lasting appeal of the vibrant Lebanese capital.

118 L’ATELIER ROBUCHON ARRIVES ON APHRODITE’S ISLE

One of the most lauded chefs in culinary history, Joël Robuchon was renowned for his innovative approach to French cuisine. Set in Ayia Napa’s slick new yachting marina, Nicholas Chrisostomou road tests the newest Mediterranean outpost of the global Robuchon gastronomic empire.

46 WIN A LUXE FIVE-NIGHT TWO-CENTRE SRI LANKAN HOLIDAY

Combining modern opulence with authentic local charm, Shangri-La’s two Sri Lankan resorts are nothing short of spectacular. The lucky winner of issue 42’s prize draw will spend a total of five nights in the lap of luxury on the gorgeous Indian Ocean island, courtesy of Shangri-La and The Cultured Traveller.

CONTENTS

8 CONTRIBUTORS

12 EDITOR’S LETTER

14 NEWSFLASH

The summer 2023 festival season has already begun, with a mass of music gatherings happening over the coming months together with an array of cultural events taking place around the world, including DISTORTION in Copenhagen, which has been pushing the limits of the Danish capital’s party scene for 25 years; SOLSTICE FEST at Stonehenge, which is the only live music event held annually within the vicinity of the renowned world heritage site; China’s colourful annual dragon boat festival, DUANWU JIÉ, held on the Miluo River in southern Húnán province; the somewhat bizarre WORLD WIFE-CARRYING CHAMPIONSHIPS in the small Finnish town of Sonkajärvi, and the expansive and incredibly diverse EDINBURGH FRINGE, which was founded in 1947.

28 REST YOUR HEAD

From the spectacular new PENINSULA ISTANBUL, that occupies an unrivalled stretch of Bosphorus frontage at Galataport on the European shore of Istanbul, and Santa Monica’s historic 1930s oceanfront hotel, THE GEORGIAN, which is steeped in the history of old Hollywood, to Habitas’ veritable Moroccan playground on the water, CARAVAN DAKHLA, set on the shores of Dakhla Lagoon, and JW Marriott’s new luxury lodge on the banks of the River Talek within the Mara National Reserve, one of Africa’s most renowned wildlife conservation and wilderness areas, The Cultured Traveller team checks out a dozen properties around the world which deliver much more than your average hotel stay.

62 IN CONVERSATION WITH Recently bestowed with a lifetime achievement award by DJ Magazine, British DJ PAULETTE chats to The Cultured Traveller about her long career, and how the industry has changed during the past 30 years.

69 SUITE ENVY

Nicholas Chrisostomou unpacks his cases in an extraordinary multi-level suite, set within a 120-year-old tower atop MATILD PALACE hotel in Budapest.

74 SKY BRIEF

The Cultured Traveller seasonal round-up of global air travel news, including a first look at Kansas City’s new USD 1.5 billion airport terminal.

88 SPOTLIGHT

Barbara Kasasa travels to Serbia's tranquil mountains to explore the unique village of DRVENGRAD, sample local cuisine and check-out a rather special film festival.

92 CITY FOCUS

Carved into fiction and folklore courtesy of being the birthplace of Martin Luther King and where Margaret Mitchell wrote Gone With The Wind, Dilraz Kunnummal explores the American city of ATLANTA.

108 TASTE & SIP REVIEW

Joe Mortimer visits THE ETHICUREAN restaurant in the hills of North Somerset, where almost everything on the menu is grown in its beautiful walled garden.

114 TASTE & SIP NEWCOMER

With a decades-long reputation for the highest quality seafood prepared simply and served in elegant surroundings, Nicholas Chrisostomou dines at Costas Spiliadis’ new MILOS restaurant in Athens.

118 STYLISH GLOBETROTTER

Adrian Gibson rounds-up his SUMMER FASHION STAPLES for the months ahead, to keep you looking cool and stylish this vacation season.

131 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Web addresses for everywhere featured in issue 42 of The Cultured Traveller

132 SUITE WITH A VIEW

Fashioned by Portuguese and Italian master craftsmen, the majestic RAFFLES ROYAL SUITE at Raffles The Palm features three bedrooms, marblelined bathrooms and a sprawling terrace boasting panoramic views of Dubai’s skyline and the turquoise waters of the Arabian Gulf.

DAWN GIBSON-FAWCETT

➤ COVER STORY - THE MALDIVES

Dawn is a professional writer and editor who has visited more than 30 countries and lived on four continents. She is equally at home indulging in Michelin-starred cuisine at a chic European eatery, scuba diving in the Red Sea and exploring the mysteries of ancient religious sites in Asia.

JOE MORTIMER

➤ TASTE & SIP REVIEW - THE ETHICUREAN

A UK travel writer and editor who specialises in luxury travel and high-end hospitality, and former editor of Destinations of the World News, Joe is an avid wine enthusiast who spent most of lockdown studying for his WSET Level 3 exams. When he is not operating a corkscrew, Joe can usually be found wandering around the Mendip Hills or planning his next great adventure.

LISA JEREJIAN

➤ HOSPITALITY ICON - PHOENICIA, BEIRUT

A spirited writer, traveller and dreamer, Lisa is a naturalborn storyteller who seeks meaning in every journey. Her greatest joys in life include reviving old furniture, admiring art, volunteering and getting lost in nature. Having visited over 30 countries, Lisa is currently based in Beirut where she’s editor of Lebanon Traveler, a platform that champions the small Mediterranean country.

ADRIAN GIBSON

➤ STYLISH GLOBETROTTER - SUMMER FASHION STAPLES

For more than two decades, Adrian has worked as a professional fashion buyer for some of the world’s leading stores, in London and Dubai, including Selfridges, Harrods and Harvey Nichols. An avid shopper, he enjoys nothing more than visiting stores, meeting designers and supporting new talent wherever and whenever he’s travelling the globe, as well as keeping a keen eye on the latest trends.

BARBARA KASASA

➤ SPOTLIGHT - DRVENGRAD, SERBIA

A Belgian born serial entrepreneur, Barbara has lived in six different countries across three different continents and she’s not done yet! Travelling is her passion, whether she's glamping in the Cardamom Mountains, indulging in Kyoto, spotting endangered species in Kruger National Park or riding a motorbike through Ho Chi Minh City's chaotic streets.

DILRAZ KUNNUMMAL

➤ CITY FOCUS - ATLANTA, USA

A thirst for exploring the world drives Dilraz to travel and immerse herself in nature, culture and gastronomy. Fascinated by history, architecture and local customs and traditions, she has travelled to 18 countries and likes nothing more than sharing her adventures, and the beauty and diversity of our planet, with her children.

SOFITEL LEGEND THE GRAND AMSTERDAM

FIVE-STAR LUXURY IN A UNIQUE HISTORICAL AMBIANCE

Sofitel Legend The Grand Amsterdam offers five-star luxury in a unique historical ambiance. Furnished with French elegance and grandeur, the hotel welcomes a variety of visitors, from the trendy Amsterdam elite to famous international movie stars. In all of the rooms and suites (including butler service), the restaurants, the halls, and the beautiful Garden Terrace, the heritage and luxury of this opulent landmark will charm all who visit. Over the course of the centuries, this exquisite Amsterdam landmark has been ripened and enriched by countless special events and, during the process, has also acquired tremendous culinary fame.

Chef de Cuisine Raoul Meuwese and his team invite guests to enjoy the varied selection of dishes available at award-winning restaurant Bridges, Mediterranean Oriole Garden Bistro and on the beautiful Garden Terrace; an oasis of peace and tranquility, situated in the heart of the city. In the afternoon, you can withdraw to the Library

‘Or’ to enjoy The Grand Afternoon Tea, with or without a glass of champagne. If you are looking for the perfect place to unwind in the heart of Amsterdam, pamper yourself at Sofitel SPA with a beauty treatment or relax after a few laps in the pool.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

PUBLISHER COCO LATTÉ

DESIGN TAHIR IQBAL

EDITORIAL JEMIMA THOMPSON, LISA WEYMAN

ADVERTISING JEREMY GORING

RETOUCHING STELLA ALEVIZAKI

THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS

Dawn Gibson-Fawcett, Joe Mortimer, Adrian Gibson Lisa Jerejian, Barbara Kasasa, Howard Healy Dilraz Kunnummal

WITH THANKS TO Harry Greig, Shelley Sofier, Iro Orri, Shangri-La Sri Lanka

The Cultured Traveller is published by Coco Latté

Advertising and sponsorship enquiries: ads@theculturedtraveller.com

Editorial enquiries words@the culturedtraveller.com

Subscription enquiries subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

➤ ISSUE 42

© 2023 Coco Latté. All rights reserved

Reproduction in part or in whole of any part of this magazine is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of its respective contributors and writers and are not necessarily shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff.

The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles, photographs or other materials submitted.

Download the digital edition of issue 42 of The Cultured Traveller magazine at ➤ www.issuu.com/theculturedtraveller/docs/ 42

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THE CULTURED TRAVELLER COCO LATTÉ

5 MERCHANT SQUARE

LONDON W2 1AY UK

AS WE ALL KNOW, THE entire global tourism industry, particularly leisure and business travel, was devastated by the pandemic. Last month, the head of the UN World Health Organisation declared COVID-19 to no longer be a public health emergency, and if you’re one of millions of travellers passing through the world’s airports these days, you will have seen, first hand, how the travel industry has somewhat miraculously recovered. Today, it is positively booming, flights are full and holidaymakers are once again jetting off to destinations across the globe. Amidst the current air of travel rebirth, perhaps no beach destination has been as consistent as the Maldives, which was once only the domain of the super-rich. But not anymore.

SOME 50 YEARS AFTER THE FIRST RESORT opened in the Indian Ocean archipelagic nation and having skillfully navigated the pandemic, the Maldives has grown into a destination for all, from digital nomads and families to luxury travellers and the international jet-set. Now providing something for everyone, it is the Maldives' spirit of inclusivity that sees the quintessential beach getaway on the cover of issue 42 of The Cultured Traveller, and Dawn Gibson-Fawcett staying at five different resorts to experience the range of Maldivian offerings available today. (page 48)

BACK ON DRY LAND, JOE MORTIMER VISITS

a rather special restaurant set in the hills of North Somerset, close to the city of Bristol, where almost everything on the menu is grown in its walled garden (page 108). Barbara Kasasa travels

to Serbia’s tranquil mountains to explore the unique movie-set village of Drvengrad (page 88).

Dilraz Kunnummal delves into the American city of Atlanta, where Martin Luther King was born and Margaret Mitchell wrote Gone With The Wind (page 92). And Lisa Jerejian looks back at the history of a Beirut hospitality icon that epitomises the resilient spirit and lasting appeal of the Lebanese capital (page 81).

HONOURED WITH A lifetime achievement award by DJ Magazine last year, DJ Paulette chats about her enduring career and how she has witnessed the industry change during the past three decades (page 62) I unpack my suitcases in a spectacular multi-level suite, set within a 120-year old tower atop Budapest’s most storied hotel (page 69). And to keep you looking cool and stylish on beaches around the world this summer – whether you’re lucky enough to be heading to the Maldives or a sandy cove closer to home – Adrian Gibson hand-picks a collection of fashion essentials for him and her, from sunglasses and luggage to accessories and beach attire (page 122).

WHEREVER YOU KICK-BACK IN THE COMING months, I truly hope that The Cultured Traveller has been instrumental in helping you find your perfect escape.

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief

From left to right: Fairmont Maldives, Sirru Fen Fushi; The Ethicurean; Matild Palace, Budapest; Drvengrad, Serbia

news

SEASON

LAJKONIK

DISTORTION

FOR 25 YEARS, Distortion has been pushing the limits of Copenhagen’s party culture, attracting DJs from across the globe and annually filling the city centre with thousands of revellers for five days. Today Distortion is an over-the-top music extravaganza that offers mammoth street parties during the day, intimate club events by night (Distortion Club) and, to round off the whole thing in suitably loud fashion, a two-day weekend rave held at Copenhagen’s harbour

(Distortion Ø). Being such an eco-friendly city, the street festivities are financed by partygoers purchasing a Gadearmbåndet street bracelet, so that the Distortion crew can properly clean up once the musical mayhem has ended. This year’s line-up is headlined by Belgian KNTXT music label owner and acid techno DJ Charlotte de Witte, plus Chicago-born music producer and DJ Honey Dijon, whose brazen style blends all genres.

31 May - 4 June 2023

www.cphdistortion.dk

CLOSE TO THE COUNTRY’S border with the Czech Republic, the southern Polish city of Kraków is not short of the odd legend or two, with maidendevouring dragons, enchanted pigeons and sorcerers flying around on giant cockerels all rumoured to frequent the city’s well-preserved medieval center. And every summer, one of the most peculiar springs to life in the city's old town, when a bizarre looking rider, sporting a wizard's hat, oriental attire and a huge beard, “gallops” into the market square to meet Kraków’s mayor. His name is Lajkonik, and this exotic figure of a man commemorates the triumph of Polish commoners against the troops of invader Genghis Khan. According to Polish legend, when the head of Kraków’s defences defeated the marauders back in the 13th century, Lajkonik slipped into the Mongolian’s robes and triumphantly rode into the city. The historic event has been re-enacted annually for more than seven centuries ever since.

15 June 2023

https://visitkrakow.com

THE SUMMER 2023 FESTIVAL

HAS ALREADY BEGUN, WITH A MASS OF MUSIC GATHERINGS HAPPENING OVER THE COMING MONTHS, TOGETHER WITH AN ARRAY OF CULTURAL EVENTS TAKING PLACE AROUND THE WORLD

DJ Honey Dijon

SOLSTICE FEST

THE PREHISTORIC SITE of Stonehenge has been a place of worship and celebration for thousands of years, especially at the time of the summer solstice. Literally meaning a stopping or standing still of the sun, the summer solstice is when the sun is directly above the northern hemisphere, indicating midsummer. For time immemorial, it has been celebrated by everyone from ancient druids performing rituals at stone circles, to newage, neo-Pagan hippie revellers, and even modern-day scientists. Held within the vicinity of Stonehenge, this four-day mini festival is the one and only camping and live music event within the vicinity of the renowned world heritage site, hence it provides a rare chance for members of the general public to walk amongst the ancient stone circle. Visitors can either pitch a tent in the Stonehenge campfire field, or stay in a furnished bell tent in a quieter field set in a separate, enclosed area of the site.

18 - 21 June 2023

www. stonehengefestivals.co.uk

GLASTONBURY

GLOBALLY FAMOUS AND very much the grandfather of modern-day festivals, Glastonbury’s first outing was more than 50 years ago. Today the festival attracts some 150,000 people, is double the size of the city of Bath and is more like a temporary settlement than a music fest. So large that it easily feels like five or six festivals rolled into one, Glastonbury’s refugee camp-like feel is most liberal than anything you'll see elsewhere during Great Britain’s packed summer season. Such breadth offers something for everyone,

attracting a vast and diverse selection of society's most arty and open-minded, ranging from backpackers, hippies, spiritualists and yoga teachers, to yuppies, hipsters and fashionistas. Since Glastonbury is essentially a music festival above all else, unsurprisingly there’s an awful lot of musical talent to check out and it’s impossible to see it all. This year’s line-up is headlined by the Rocket Man himself, musical legend Sir Elton John, in what will be his final ever gig in the UK after more than 50 years on the road.

21 - 25 June 2023

https://glastonburyfestivals.co.uk

Elton John

BOARDMASTERS

The UK's biggest surf and music festival is once again taking place along the Cornish coastline in the premiere surfing mecca of Fistral Beach and Watergate Bay, with numerous surfing competitions over five days, together with music-led parties that continue late into the night.

9 - 13 August 2023

https://boardmasters.com

DUANWU JIÉ

THE ANNUAL SIGHT of China’s rivers filled with colourful vessels decked out to look like dragons, complete with fearsome snouts and scaly tails, only means one thing: the annual dragon boat festival. Whilst this flamboyant event is moreover a great deal of fun, the festival’s roots lie in tragedy, since it commemorates Qu Yuan, a revered humanitarian politician and poet, who drowned himself in the Miluo River in 278 BC, to protest against the Qin state’s invasion of his land. The dismayed common people took to their boats and tried to keep the fish and evil spirits away from Qu Yuan, by splashing their oars and beating drums. Qin eventually conquered all of its rival states and created China, but the patriotic poet is nonetheless honoured. One of the best places to catch Duanwu Jié and cheer on the contestants as they row frantically towards the finish line, is the Miluo River in the southern province of Húnán, where Qu Yuan unfortunately met his end.

22 June 2023

www.travelchina.org.cn/en

INTI RAYMI

USUALLY EXPLOSIONS of colour, Peru is famed for its spectacular festivals featuring traditional clothing, vibrant dancing and delicious foods, and Inti Raymi is no exception. In the Quechua languages, Inti means “sun” and a Raymi is a “celebration”. The ancient Incans so feared the diminished effects of the sun during the winter months, that they would fast, create lavish banquets to honour the sun, and sacrifice hundreds of llamas to ensure a bountiful crop. The modern-day re-enactment of Inti Raymi still retains all of the

festival’s majestic glory and Inca symbolism, minus the mass animal slaughter. Marking the beginning of a new year, sprawling food spreads, festive music, historical recreations and much dancing praise the Inca, celebrate traditions and wish for a fruitful harvest season. Rituals are accompanied by dancing and the sound of shells and musical instruments . The festivities culminate in an epic day-long event, with just one animal sacrificed at the climax of the celebrations.

24 June 2023

www.peru.travel/en

WORLD WIFE-CARRYING CHAMPIONSHIPS

TRADITIONALLY HELD towards the end of the annual European ski season and often referred to as the ‘Glastonbury of mountain gatherings’, Snowbombing takes place in the stunning Austrian resort of Mayrhofen in the heart of the Tirol. Boasting breathtaking mountain scenery of the Zillertaler Alps, days are spent skiing, boarding, enjoying music in mountain-top locales, feasting on sumptuous spreads and relaxing in saunas and spas. Nights herald a completely different

KNYSNA OYSTER FESTIVAL

HELD IN THE HEART OF South Africa’s Garden Route and one of the nation’s most popular annual lifestyle and sporting gatherings, the Knysna Oyster Festival is a ten-day familyorientated event aimed at foodies and sports lovers. Oyster eating, oyster shucking, oyster farm tours, oyster recipe challenges and gourmet oyster-themed dinners happen throughout the festival, alongside wine and champagne tastings aplenty. Meanwhile a two-day mountain bike tour, a number of

running events and the Knysna Forest Marathon keep energetic types occupied, the latter passing through deep forests and alongside the Goukamma river and boasting a wealth of breathtaking views, particularly in the last few kilometres. New for this year, a scenic, family-friendly six-kilometre fun run has been introduced, with the route including a number of spectacular bridge crossings and some magnificent scenery along the Knysna Railway.

30 June - 9 July 2023

https://oysterfestival.co.za

GION MATSURI

KYOTO’S GION MATSURI is probably Japan's bestknown festival, one of the longest, and runs for the entire month of July every year. Named after the city’s Gion district and centred around Yasaka Shrine, its roots date back to 869 when the people of Kyoto gathered to pray for respite from a plague that befell the city. Today, it is by far the country’s best event for geisha enthusiasts and photographers hoping to snap candid photos of geisha and maiko. Whilst traditional

experience with cutting-edge performances happening in a host of unique alpine venues, from pools and sky-high igloos to enchanted forest clearings and mountain stage sets. The DJ line-up for 2023 includes chart-topping Eliza Rose, SB family Andy C, and Eats Everything. Andy Cato and Tom Findlay – collectively known as Groove Armada and renowned for their meticulously crafted DJ sets – will also be return to Snowbombing for the first time since 2019.

30 June - 1 July 2023

https://eukonkanto.fi

rituals and events relating to Gion are held throughout the month, the grand processions of yamaboko junko (floats) on 17th and 24th July are unmissable. Two types of parade float follow a three-kilometre route along Shijo, Kawaramachi and Oike streets: yama and hoko floats, collectively called yamaboko . A typical hoko can be anything up to 25 metres tall, weigh up to 12 tons and at least 30 people are needed to move it.

July 2023

www.discoverkyoto.com

BRISTOL INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FIESTA

For four days every August, ascending from Ashton Court Estate in beautiful southwest England, more than one hundred colourful hot air balloons take to the skies above the city of Bristol and the surrounding countryside, in Europe’s largest annual gathering for ballooning enthusiasts.

10 - 13 August 2023

www.bristolballoonfiesta.co.uk

BOULIA CAMEL RACES

HELD EVERY JULY IN THE incredibly remote town of Boulia – which is essentially a tiny settlement on the edge of the desert in Outback Queensland – Boulia's Camel Cup is the longest camel race in the land down under. It is run over 1.5 kilometres and is a prized win amongst fierce competitors on Australia's professional camel racing circuit. The sport’s appeal essentially lies in the beasts’ unpredictability and stubbornness, since camels snarl, gurn and bite, and are known to spit for metres. At the start of a race, they might move forwards, stay right where they are or even reverse. But, when they get going at full speed, jockeys have a serious job to stay aboard. This dusty extravaganza offers all sorts of other attractions in addition to the main race, including a hilarious camel tagging competition, yabby racing, fireworks and children's amusements, plus live entertainment every evening of the three-day gathering.

14 - 16 July 2023

www.bouliacamelraces.com.au

KIRKPINAR OIL WRESTLING

THIS LONG-RUNNING TRADITION was reportedly conceived by Ottoman raiders, whose military commander, Süleyman Pasa, would let his bored soldiers unwind by wresting, in between bouts of actual fighting. According to legend, on one particularly memorable occasion, as the Ottoman army was returning to its Asian stronghold in Bursa after conquering parts of Thrace, 40 men scuffled all at once, with the two fiercest fighters going at each other until both collapsed and died of exhaustion. When the remaining army had conquered Edirne, the victors referred to the 40 soldiers in the name of Kirkpinar, near Edirne in Western Turkey, where the wrestling competition has taken place every summer since 1346. The idea is to prevent your opponent from getting a good grip, so more than 100 barrels of oil are used during the tournament. With a solid gold belt awarded to the victor there’s everything to play for, resulting in some seriously no-holds-barred wrestling, and contestants literally grabbing anything to win!

7 - 9 July 2023

https://goturkiye.com

BORYEONG MUD FESTIVAL

UNDOUBTEDLY

South Korea's most popular annual festival, the main attractions of Boryeong are its pools, slides and wrestling arenas filled with mud. Originally conceived in 1998 as a marketing tool for a range of mud-based cosmetics, over time, Boryeong has become a hugely popular attraction for travellers and locals alike. Mud rich in minerals – especially in germanium and bentonite which are particularly beneficial to the skin – is taken from the Boryeong mud flats, 200 kilometres south of Seoul, and driven to the Daecheon beach area. Once there, it is essentially turned into a giant mud wonderland for visitors to wrestle in mud, slide around in mud and even swim in a mammoth mud bath. The ultimate summer fun destination for many South Koreans, particularly adventurous visitors attempt a marine mud-training course, while those looking to relax chill-out in the mud massage zone. In the evening, music and fireworks fuel something of a muddy, party-like atmosphere.

21 July - 6 August 2023

https://mudfestival.or.kr/intro/view

OUTLOOK ORIGINS

SOMETHING OF A RETURN to the beginnings of the now well-known festival brand, the Outlook team return to Tisno in Croatia this summer for the third edition of Outlook Origins, which is essentially a sun-kissed celebration of sub-heavy sounds spanning drum & bass, dubstep, reggae, UK garage and everything in-between. Taking place at one of Europe’s best-loved festival sites, the Garden Resort in Tisno, which sits in its own private bay about halfway along the coast between Zadar and

Split, Outlook Origins brings together some of the continent’s biggest DJ names. By day, festival goers dance on the beach and party on boats, while three stages take the grooving deep into the night. Down the road, Barbarellas disco hosts heaving after-parties where DJs spin until the sun comes up. Fabio and Grooverider –recognised as originators of the British drum & bass scene – are just a few of the long list of DJs and acts which will be performing over the festival’s six music-filled days.

27 July - 1 August 2023

www.outlookorigins.com

Fabio and Grooverider

LA TOMATINA

Celebrating its 75th year in 2023 and held annually in the Valencian town of Buñol, La Tomatina basically involves thousands of participants hurling more than 100 tons of overripe Spanish tomatoes at each other for exactly one hour, at the end of which pretty much everyone is soaked through. 30 August 2023

https://tomatina.es/en

POL’AND’ROCK FESTIVAL

THERE AREN'T MANY large-scale music festivals in the world today that are completely free to attend. Pol'and'Rock, formerly known as Woodstock Festival Poland, is one of them, which almost certainly guarantees the festival’s mantra of "Love, Friendship and Music”. Inspired by America’s famous Woodstock of 1969, the Polish decedent’s runaway success and massive European popularity is due to the festival’s very simple approach that one of act of kindness will surely lead to another and

THE EDINBURGH FESTIVAL FRINGE

EXPANSIVE, RAMBLING and diverse with a hefty dose of crazy, The Fringe began in 1947 when eight alternative theatre companies arrived uninvited and proceeded to perform on the edges of the inaugural Edinburgh International Festival, which was essentially the main event. The following year, more groups arrived to perform, again uninvited, and were documented by playwright Robert Kemp as performing "round the fringe of the official festival". This is how the

festival got its name. More than 75 years later, the world's largest arts festival is still true to its founding spirit and is basically open to anyone and everyone who can afford to get themselves to the energetic Scottish capital in August. Basically a bit of everything, well over 1,000 shows can be booked in advance, with theatre, comedy, music, dance, circus, musicals, variety, cabaret, children's shows and more all represented in the extensive programme.

4 - 28 August 2023

www.edfringe.com

WAY OUT WEST

FAVOURING MUSICAL ingenuity over mainstream success and billed as "multi-genre madness in Sweden", for three days and nights every year, an idyllic parkland setting in southwest Gothenburg welcomes artists from the worlds of rock, pop, urban and electro music to perform on five stages around a duck-filled lake. Founded in 2007, Way Out West has won multiple awards for its atmosphere and eco-friendly programs, making it one of Scandinavia's most respected

another. Organised by the Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity to acknowledge all the supporters who participate in its massive annual fundraiser, and masterminded by Polish journalist and social campaigner Jerzy Owsiak, Pol'and'Rock is a peaceful gathering and much more than a simple festival. It’s mission is to be "as much about music as harmonious co-existence”, where the huge strain of social and economic hardship dissipates and love, awareness and understanding are palpable throughout..

3 - 5 August 2023

https://en.polandrockfestival.pl

annual happenings. Festivalgoers spend their days kicking back in the sun and enjoying the live performances, before spilling out into the city's throbbing bars and clubs for Stay Out West's infamous after parties. Amongst others, this year's proceedings are headlined by American indie rock supergroup Boygenius and celebrated Swedish musician Håkan Hellström. Meanwhile film screenings, art exhibitions and lectures aim to re-energise minds amidst all the rampant partying.

10 - 12 August 2023

www.wayoutwest.se/en

MOUNT HAGEN  CULTURAL SHOW

FIRST STAGED IN 1961 before PNG's independence as an event to unify tribes, every year since 1964, during the third weekend of August, the city of Mount Hagen has hosted one of the largest gatherings in the country. Known locally as "sing-sings”, taking place in the large, fertile Wahgi Valley in the Western Highlands Province of PNG’s central mainland, and named after an old eroded volcano, the Mount Hagen Cultural Show is staged at Kagamuga Show Ground. With more than 100 tribes in attendance, the concept of this peaceful event is pretty simple: each tribe – clad in elaborate body paint, extravagant headdresses and jewellery fashioned from bones, tusks and shells – shares their cultural traditions through costume, dance and music, and performs a primal dance based on its own unique legend. Quite simply, the winning performance is the one which receives the most applause from the crowd.

19 - 20 August 2023

https://papuanewguinea.travel

ESALA PERAHERA

SRI LANKA'S SECOND largest metropolis, the revered UNESCO World Heritage city of Kandy, is set on a plateau surrounded by mountains in the middle of the Indian Ocean island nation. One of the oldest, grandest and most important festivals in the Buddhist calendar, the festival of Esala Perahera is based on an ancient legend that a tooth, stolen from the Lord Buddha's funeral pyre during the 4th century AD and smuggled from India to Sri Lanka, is now kept in Kandy's Sri Dalada Maligawa, The Temple Of The Sacred

Tooth Relic, which is itself a renowned pilgrimage site. Famous for its large processions of dancers, flag bearers, drummers, fire eaters, acrobats and colourfully adorned silk-costumed elephants, with each night, this ten-day festival gets more animated and the crowds get bigger. Esala Perahera ends with a water cutting ceremony at the Mahaweli Ganga River, ritualising the divide between pure and impure and honouring the water gods for a good year ahead.

21 - 31 August 2023

https://kandyperahera2023.com

rest your

➤ SANTORINI ➤ DAKHLA ➤ PARIS ➤ SANTA MONICA

➤

SOUTH ISLAND ➤ TOKYO ➤ MASAI MARA ➤ CANNES

➤ RABAT ➤ NEW YORK ➤ ZÜRICH ➤ ISTANBUL

NOBU HOTEL SANTORINI

LOCATED ABOUT 200 KILOMETRES FROM THE GREEK mainland and more accessible than many of the islands courtesy of its own airport, which is connected to many international hubs around Europe as well as Athens, Santorini is famous for its volcanic-sand beaches, multicoloured cliffs and its dramatic crescentshaped Caldera, part of which is topped with whitewashed buildings. Undoubtedly one of the Aegean’s gems, Santorini is also something of a natural wonder, having been formed by a massive volcanic eruption thousands of years ago. Visitors enjoy fiery sunsets and spectacular panoramas aplenty, which makes Santorini incredibly popular and very busy during the summer months. So if you don’t like crowds, it’s best to visit in May or early June, or in mid-late September.

When it was unveiled last year on the island’s northeast coast, Nobu Santorini was the brand’s first full-service property in Greece and its 14th

hotel worldwide. Founded by Nobu Matsuhisa, Robert De Niro and Meir Teper almost 30 years ago, Nobu is today renowned for both its upscale restaurants and luxury lifestyle hotels. The first Nobu hotel opened a decade ago in Las Vegas.

Very much an exclusive boutique hotel, perched on volcanic cliffs just outside Imerovigli (which are some of Santorini’s highest), Nobu’s Santorini property houses a signature Nobu restaurant, a substantial gym, a gorgeous split-level infinity pool, 25 rooms and suites and five luxurious villas, all designed in typically Cycladic style, with a classic cave-like feel to pretty much everything. Think large expanses of white walls softened by warm timber furniture and flowing linen fabrics in neutral colours. Most rooms include private terraces with a jacuzzi or a pool. And almost every room boasts panoramic vistas of both the Caldera and sparkling Aegean Sea. https://santorini.nobuhotels.com

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FROM A KITESURFERS PARADISE IN THE DISPUTED TERRITORY OF WESTERN SAHARA TO A SPECTACULAR NEW PENINSULA LOCATED ON AN ENVIABLE STRETCH OF BOSPHORUS FRONTAGE IN THE HEART OF ISTANBUL, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER CHECKS OUT A DOZEN PROPERTIES AROUND THE WORLD THAT OFFER MUCH MORE THAN YOUR AVERAGE HOTEL STAY

CARAVAN DAKHLA

A VAST, WINDSWEPT EXPANSE OF CRYSTAL BLUE SALTWATER located in the extreme south of Morocco, served by an airport 30 minutes’ away, Dakhla Lagoon is 37 kilometres long and almost 400 square kilometres in size. Something of a Moroccan ecological treasure and a biodiverse paradise for migratory birds, this unique lagoon is renowned as one of the top kitesurfing locations on the planet for its consistent winds, which have propelled Dakhla into a world-class destination for kiteboarders, windsurfers and other explorers keen to indulge their sporting passions in a place where nature takes centre stage.

An immersive experience focused on reconnecting with nature through the pursuit of adventure, Habitas’ newest resort, Caravan Dakhla, positively

embraces its location by offering guests immersive experiences both in and out of the water, bringing a unique vibe to the region through its key pillars of adventure, music, wellness, food, learning, art and culture.

A home to explorers and adventure-seekers alike, as well as two dozen guest rooms, Caravan Dakhla offers a multitude of leisure facilities including a Moroccan-inspired restaurant and bar, a swimming pool, a yoga and wellness centre, an outdoor cinema, a barrel sauna, a cold plunge, and Habitas’ signature agora communal gathering spaces. And the resort’s onsite kitesurf school is a partnership with kitesurf brand Naish, which is owned by the renowned American Robert Staunton Naish, who has won 24 World Championship Windsurfing titles. www.ourhabitas.com/caravan-dakhla

LE GRAND MAZARIN

THE CITY OF LIGHT NEVER FAILS TO ENTERTAIN. FROM THE musical theatrics of the famed Folies Bergère and the wild carryings-on in the adjoining Pigalle district, to the eternal glamour of strolling the Champs-Elysées and the spectacular shows at the temple to the French can-can, the Moulin Rouge, there is much in Paris to excite visitors of all ages, making the French capital a quintessential European destination.

Within a 15-minute walk of Notre-Dame and Centre Pompidou, close to the Seine on the corner of rue de la Verrerie and rue des Archives, Le Grand Mazarin is a new boutique five-star property located in the heart of Le Marais. The latest addition to Maisons Pariente's portfolio of historical hotels reinvented for the modern traveller, courtesy of talented interior architect Martin Brudnizki, Le Grand Mazarin skilfully combines three storied buildings dating back to the 14th century to create a unique new hospitality landmark busting with character and original features.

Celebrating the heritage of Paris, the city’s enduring love of the arts and the French people’s sense of sharing, the hotel exudes relaxed and chic luxury throughout its 50 guest rooms and suites. An indoor swimming pool, a fitness center and a hammam – all right in the heart of one of the city’s buzziest and most popular quartiers – provide guests with everything they need to relax and recharge when they are not enjoying Paris’ renowned joie de vivre. And two in-house bars and a restaurant Boubalé helmed by Israeli chef Assaf Granit, satiate guests and visitors alike in supreme style.

https://legrandmazarin.com

THE GEORGIAN

A CLASSIC SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA BEACH TOWN, SANTA

Monica is as famous for its iconic pier as it is for its art galleries, shopping, vibrant restaurant scene and long sandy beach that borders Santa Monica Bay. Boasting warm weather year-round, Santa Monica is very much geared towards enjoying the outdoors, and blends the sophistication of an international coastal city with the laid-back vibe of a Californian beach town. And despite being just 20 kilometres west of downtown Los Angeles, it feels like a weekend getaway destination. The city also has a history of being home to celebrities and movie moguls, after a number of Hollywood stars and industry giants built homes in Santa Monica in the 1920s.

Perched above the Santa Monica waterfront on Ocean Avenue, The Georgian has been a fixture of the Southern California coastline since it made its debut in 1933, coinciding with the start of the golden age of

hospitality in America. The Georgian was the dream of Californian hotelier Rosamond Borde, who commissioned celebrated architect Eugene Durfee to design a hotel of grand proportions.

Steeped in the history of old Hollywood, the famed Art Deco property has seen several iterations over the years. Regular guests included Charlie Chaplin, Clark Gable and Marilyn Monroe. Dramatic in appearance but cosy and intimate inside, the landmark property was lovingly restored to its former glory before reopening in April 2023, its timeless elegance and historic significance now on full display.

Rooms embrace the hotel’s heritage and boast plush beds dressed in Italian linens, antique bar trolleys and Marshall speakers. Many also enjoy spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean and Santa Monica Pier, stretching from Santa Catalina Island across to Malibu, where some of the most breathtaking sunsets take place.

www.thegeorgian.com

FALCON BRAE VILLA

AT A LOWER ALTITUDE THAN ITS SIBLING AND ENJOYING an oceanic climate, New Zealand’s South Island is very different from North Island. Larger and generally considered more beautiful, and boasting a spectacular coastline, South Island is defined by the many mountains and fjords that punctuate it, not least the Southern Alps which run its length from north to south and include New Zealand's highest peak, Mount Cook at 3,724 metres above sea level, which sits amongst a rugged national park with 18 more peaks over 3,000 metres. The country’s only castle is also located on South Island. Built by William Larnach in 1871, Larnach Castle offers a fascinating insight into Dunedin's history and its tower provides visitors with sweeping views of the Otago Peninsula.

Located at the confluence of Stanley Brook and Motueka River near Nelson at the top of South Island, and set within a stunning 142-hectare estate complete with a private forest, Falcon Brae is a deluxe, exclusive-use off-thegrid villa which provides complete privacy for its cosseted guests.

Perched high above the river on a hill, providing panoramic 360-degree vistas of picturesque Motueka Valley and sprawling Kahurangi National Park, the villa offers its inhabitants every conceivable luxury, centered around a sumptuous great room with soaring 5-metre ceilings, a massive stone fireplace and a sunken bar. Because the villa’s owners are musicians and recording artists, the great room also benefits from excellent acoustics and a grand piano and guitars are available for the use of guests. The villa also contains a media theatre, games room, fitness equipment and arcade games.

The villa’s four bedrooms are sufficient to accommodate a large family, while its sister property, Stonefly Lodge, two kilometres away, can sleep another eight guests, making a total capacity of 18 between the two. Falcon Brae can seat everyone for meals in a variety of dining areas and there is even a show kitchen for theatrical chefs to entertain guests with their culinary talents. www.falconbraevilla.co.nz

BULGARI HOTEL TOKYO

JUXTAPOSING OLD AND NEW AND THE HISTORIC AND THE futuristic, massive multifaceted Tokyo is resolutely cuttingedge whilst keeping one foot firmly planted in the past. The city routinely astounds with its modernity at the same time as impressing with its refined, traditional culture. Ancient Buddhist temples, vintage teahouses and tranquil gardens offer ample opportunities to escape the hectic pace and enjoy a moment of serenity. Meanwhile, one traveller’s experience of Tokyo is often completely different to another’s, courtesy of 23 wards that are distinctive in their differences to each other. Yet despite the enormous scale of modern Tokyo, globetrotters universally leave the largest city in the world having had some of the most unforgettable metropolitan experiences of their lives.

Filling the top six floors from 40 upwards of the all-new mixed-use skyscraper Tokyo Midtown Yaesu, which overlooks the city's iconic train station, Imperial Palace Gardens and the surrounding cityscape, all the way to Mount Fuji, Bulgari Hotel Tokyo opened just a few months ago bringing modern Italian glamour to the heart of the Japanese capital.

Centrally located in Tokyo’s much sought-after midtown Yaesu district of Chūō, within walking distance of Nihombashi and Marunouchi financial districts, not to mention Ginza’s plethora of shopping and dining, the newest Bulgari hotel offers 98 rooms and suites decorated in an elegant, relaxed style by Milan-based architectural studio, Antonio Citterio Patricia Viel. The same design team was responsible for Bulgari Hotel Tokyo’s

public spaces and the signature look of all eight of the brand’s other hotels worldwide. The result is a decadent hotel that brushes Tokyo’s clouds while skilfully merging contemporary Italian design with Japanese craftsmanship, garnished with a generous sprinkling of Bulgari’s glamorous heritage.

www.bulgarihotels.com/tokyo

JW MARRIOTT MASAI MARA LODGE

NOTHING SHORT OF A PARADISE FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS AND nature lovers, covering a vast area of more than 1,500 square kilometres in the southwest of Kenya, the sprawling expanses of the Masai Mara National Reserve’s gently rolling savannah plains are quite simply breathtaking. The dramatic scenes that confront visitors daily are not dissimilar to that of a movie. And together with an abundance of elephant, buffalo, giraffe, lions and cheetah, the reserve is home to some two million wildebeest that make up the famous Great Migration, joined by a host of companions. Alongside the migratory wildebeest and zebra, leopards are frequently encountered in the reserve, endangered black rhino hide in the dense thickets and hippos and crocodiles are found in the Mara River. The reserve is also home to more than 400 bird species.

Amidst an untamed landscape of grassy plains and rolling hills and situated on the edge of the reserve on the banks of the River Talek, the Masai Mara Lodge is JW Marriott’s first venture into the safari market and the brand’s third property in Africa.

A luxury tented camp, the lodge employs the majority of its staff from the local community and offers guests an opportunity to observe the “Big Five” of African wildlife: lions, leopards, buffalo, rhinos and elephants. Between June and September, the lodge is also perfectly placed for guests to witness the northern end of the Great Migration.

Focusing on connecting with nature, guests are accommodated in 20 private tents which have been designed in harmony with the camp’s

surroundings via the extensive use of natural materials and a colour palette of earthy tones. Each tent enjoys a private al fresco hot tub and a terrace overlooking the river.

After game drives in customised vehicles, guests find peace and tranquillity in the lodge’s serene spaces as the hustle and bustle of the outside world fades away. Shared areas include a restaurant, a loungebar, a spa and gym, a large swimming pool and outdoor terraces complete with fire pits, the latter hosting traditional Masai dance performances in the evenings.

www.marriott.com

MONDRIAN CANNES

FAMED FOR THE MOST GLAMOROUS FILM FESTIVAL ON the annual movie calendar, upon whose hallowed red carpet everyone from Brigitte Bardot and Elizabeth Taylor to Princess Diana and Madonna have appeared, Cannes is perhaps unsurprisingly a perennial favourite amongst jetsetters, A-listers and stars of stage and screen. A magnet for big spenders positioned at the heart of the French Riviera, the town’s golden sandy beaches, designer boutiques, chic cafés, fancy bars and high-end restaurants contribute to its global reputation for being a playground for the rich and famous, with Cannes’ prestigious beachfront hotels being just the tip of its fame for luxury.

Housed within the town’s oldest luxury hotel, formerly known as Le Grand Hotel Cannes, following an extensive renovation, Mondrian Cannes opened a few months ago in one of the best spots on the legendary boulevard de La Croisette, overlooking the cinematic sweep of the bay. Indeed,

the new Mondrian is the only hotel on the Croisette and boasts its own lush gardens, private beach club and direct access to the rue d’Antibes shopping district.

Designed by Franco-Brazilian agency Triptyque, the Mondrian’s public spaces are imbued with a natural vitality, creating a dialogue between the iconic building's sophisticated interiors and the hotel’s gardens which lead down to the Croisette, employing a variety of materials along the way, including woods, marbles and leathers.

Art usually takes center stage at Mondrian hotels. In Cannes, the spotlight is on visual artist Mathilde de l’Écotais, who is inspired by nature and started out as a photographer.

Upstairs, 75 guest rooms including three suites, feature Art Deco furniture and a colour palette inspired by the ocean which combine to convey a classic, pleasingly fresh, French Riviera aesthetic.

www.mondriancannes.com

FAIRMONT LA MARINA RABAT-SALÉ

TOO OFTEN IGNORED BY TRAVELLERS WHEN VISITING

Morocco, Rabat in in North Africa boasts a rich history and offers a fascinating glimpse into modern Moroccan life. Sitting on the shores of the Bouregreg River and the Atlantic Ocean, culture rich Rabat’s streets and public squares are brimming with architectural masterpieces, not least of which is the 12th century Kasbah of the Udayas. A charming medieval fortress district that was the first settlement in Rabat, the kasbah’s majestic silhouette is softened by the surrounding gardens and the mouth of the river nearby. Enclosed by greenery and beautiful tiled fountains and built during the reign of Almohad ruler Yacoub el Mansour in the late 12th century, also not to be missed when visiting the Moroccan capital is Rabat’s most famous landmark, the 44-metre Le Tour Hassan (or Hassan Towers).

Located on the Bouregreg estuary close to the city’s international airport, barely a ten-minute drive from the center and designed by prestigious Foster & Partners in collaboration with Moroccan architect Abdelouahed Mountassir, Fairmont La Marina Rabat Salé opened in late 2022. A sprawling urban resort, the complex comprises more than 150 guest rooms, 27 plush suites and 88 elegant residences. All fuse modern Morocco with the timeless traditions for which the Kingdom is famous and combine authentic Moroccan craftsmanship with contemporary design elements. In addition to the slick and attentive service one expects of every Fairmont property, La Marina Rabat Salé offers a rich array of culinary experiences, from farm and ocean to table, via three onsite restaurants. The hotel also features a fitness centre and a year-round heated rooftop

pool, offering breathtaking sunrise and sunset vistas and 360-degree panoramas of some of Rabat’s most iconic landmarks. A sumptuous, onsite spa with 10 treatment rooms, a VIP suite and an authentic hammam provide sanctuary for weary travellers after a busy day of sightseeing.

www.fairmont.com/rabat

THE RITZ-CARLTON NEW YORK, NOMAD

SHORT FOR NORTH OF MADISON SQUARE PARK AND THE location of some great hotels and notable restaurants for some time, NoMad is today a stylish stopover between Manhattan’s midtown and downtown. But this fast-emerging New York neighbourhood, which encompasses the bottom part of NYC's infamous Tenderloin District, once had a salubrious past as a notorious red light district, particularly during New York’s Gilded Age. Founded in the 1600s, elegant brownstones and stately mansions once surrounded the park and historic figures including Franklin D. Roosevelt and Grover Cleveland lived in the vicinity. Now, as new developments and high-rises regularly pop up, prospective residents and tourists are flocking to NoMad, not least for its central position, luxury boutique hotels and fashionable eateries.

Located at Broadway and 28th Street and designed by famed Uruguayanborn architect Rafael Viñoly, there was a considerable buzz about NoMad’s new Ritz-Carlton long before it was unveiled in the summer of 2022. With a food and beverage program conceptualised and helmed by much celebrated Spanish-American chef José Andrés, and 219 luxe guest rooms and 31 suites spread over 50 floors, plus an additional 16 one and twobedroom penthouse residences, the hotel instantly became a new NoMad landmark when it opened.

Guests can dine at Zaytinya – which offers an innovative mezze menu inspired by Turkish, Greek, and Lebanese cuisines served up in a sleek and modern setting – or be transported to a Martin Brudnizki-designed jewel box

in the sky for cocktails, bites and sweeping 270-degree views at Nubeluz, which is one of the hottest new additions to New York’s nightlife scene. If a little rest and relaxation is needed, a massive subterranean oasis-like spa offers every conceivable treatment to unwind and rejuvenate weary bodies, cocooning guests from the fast-pace of life outside 25 West 28th Street. www. ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/new-york/nomad

IMAGE: MICHAEL KLEINBERG

IMAGE: BJÖRN WALLANDER

FIVE ZÜRICH

SOMETHING OF A CITY OF CONTRADICTIONS, ZÜRICH somehow melds resoundingly Swiss sensibility with the nation’s most exuberant side in a sprawling metropolis clustered around its large, famous lake. Dozens of museums provide ample matter for culture vultures. A vibrant restaurant scene satiates even the most discerning of gourmands. An array of shops and designer boutiques provide retail therapy for big spenders. And a vibrant nightlife scene equally entertains the partying younger generation and the young-at-heart. With something for everyone, Zurich is a city which should be on every traveller’s hit list.

Formerly a farming village, in 1893 Wiedikon became part of Zürich and is nowadays known as district 3. A lovely place to stroll, punctuated by small shops, bars and cafés, Wiedikon is located at the foot of the city’s only mountain which is known as Üetliberg. About a 20-minute drive from the airport, FIVE Zürich is located in the leafy heart of this green space, in the middle of a pretty private patch, with the urban sprawl spread out in front of the hotel and hilly, lush greenery to the rear. But what FIVE Zürich provides couldn’t be further from the peace and quiet of the serene area which the hotel borders.

Formerly an urban retreat known as Atlantis By Giardino with a starstudded history, since the venue hosted megastars including Elton John and Grace Jones amongst others, in its time, last year the site was re-born as a contemporary party palace, courtesy of UAE-based FIVE Hotels & Resorts.

FIVE had successfully operated two high-energy properties in Dubai when it premiered FIVE Zürich. Akin to a W hotel on steroids, FIVE Zürich is probably the only party-focused hotel of its kind in Switzerland, and what is offers it does very well, with bells-on, one might say.

45 glitzy suites, dozens of spacious rooms, a well-equipped gym, fullservice spa, seven dining and drinking venues and a rooftop nightclub provide sufficient lodgings and entertainment to warrant checking-in for a weekend and simply not leaving. The service is swift, friendly and reasonable to boot, which is something of a rarity in pricey Zürich. And the hotel operates its own fleet of vehicles – including a plush electric Mercedes van and a swanky EQE saloon – to whisk guests to-and-from the city centre in a matter of minutes. However, with so much happening on-site in the hotel, there really is no need to venture out of FIVE Zurich unless it’s time to pay your bill and catch a flight.

https://zurich.fivehotelsandresorts.com

THE PENINSULA ISTANBUL

THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN ISTANBUL AND THE SEA DATES back many centuries before Christ was born, when ancient Byzantium's first settlers decided to call the fledgling city's natural harbour their home. Since then, the city's waters have played a significant role in global maritime trade and are integral to Istanbul’s history. Today, Istanbul is dominated by its location on the Bosphorus Strait, which connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara and also links the European part of the city with its Asian part and thus remains a strategic waterway.

Located in the centre of Istanbul on the waterfront, in the neighbourhood of Karaköy in close proximity to the old town, Galataport is a unique and ambitious project to transform a 1.2 kilometre industrial strip along the Bosphorus Strait and forever change the relationship of Turkey’s largest city with shopping, gastronomy, the arts and the water.

Derived from the name of Istanbul’s famous 14th century tower, Galataport has effectively completely reinvented an inner part of the city and created a new retail, dining and entertainment mecca for locals and visitors alike. Within this new upscale district sits a vast new Peninsula hotel occupying some 250 metres of river frontage.

Exuding elegant period glamour from all three of its lovingly restored heritage buildings, alongside slick contemporary design in the hotel's fourth adjacent building, which is a newbuild, the most recent addition to Peninsula’s portfolio of super luxe properties worldwide is a veritable art gallery as well as a superlative hospitality experience. Indeed, The Peninsula Istanbul’s soft opening earlier this year immediately propelled the hotel to the very top of the city’s hospitality offerings, for the stay experience it offers is almost certainly unsurpassed anywhere in Istanbul, if not Turkey.

A standout property that has been incredibly well thought-through and executed with literally no expense spared – with extreme attention to detail and top-quality finishes evident throughout – to stay at The Peninsula Istanbul is to want for nothing and be waited on hand-and-foot by a team of staff so well-trained, that they appear to have landed in Turkey from a hospitality planet in another galaxy.

The Peninsula’s sprawling site encompasses a range of magnificently appointed rooms and suites, a variety of restaurants and bars, a massive indoor swimming pool and sumptuous subterranean spa and hamman, a huge and exceedingly well-equipped gym and an outdoor pool and bar, all punctuated by more than 80 artworks liberally sprinkled throughout the hotel and its grounds. Most importantly, it is all located along an enviable stretch of frontage directly on the Bosphorus Strait, in the beating heart of Istanbul, where the constant flow of river traffic provides non-stop entertainment, whether gazing out of the windows of your chic suite or sipping a latté on the water’s edge.

www.peninsula.com/en/istanbul

five-nights at shangri-la’s two spectacular resorts in sri lanka

WIN TWO NIGHTS IN A PREMIER

OCEAN VIEW ROOM AT SHANGRILA HOTEL COLOMBO, INCLUDING DAILY BREAKFASTS AND ONE DINNER FOR TWO AT DHARSHAN

MUNIDASA’S KAEMA SUTRA RESTAURANT. PLUS THREE NIGHTS IN A PREMIER OCEAN ROOM AT SHANGRI-LA'S HAMBANTOTA RESORT, INCLUDING DAILY BREAKFASTS, A RIVERBOAT SAFARI AND GROUND TRANSPORTATION IN SRI LANKA

FOUNDED IN 1971 BY TYCOON ROBERT KUOK IN Singapore, Shangri-La is today one of the world’s leading luxury hotel groups with more than 100 resorts on five continents.

Built upon the grounds of a former coconut plantation and hugging a beautiful stretch of coastline, Shangri-La's Hambantota Golf Resort & Spa is a retreat towards rediscovering Sri Lanka’s wild heart. Set amongst lush tropical gardens and sprawling across almost 59 hectares, the country’s largest resort is home to an 18-hole championship golf course, an expansive spa and a unique artisan village, as well as 300 guest rooms and 21 luxe suites.

www.shangri-la.com/hambantota

Combining modern luxury with authentic Sri Lankan charm, Shangri-La’s Colombo property is home to more than 500 guest rooms, 34 suites and 41 apartments. All boast uninterrupted views of the Indian Ocean, Beira Lake or the city’s skyline and are decorated in a luxe and smart yet warm and inviting colour palate to reflect the coastal surroundings. Multiple onsite food and beverage venues cater to every taste and a spa, pool and fitness centre provide plentiful leisure options.

www.shangri-la.com/colombo/shangrila/

TO ENTER

Shangri-La Hotel, Colombo

Shangri-La's Hambantota Golf Resort & Spa

THE MALDIVES

STILL THE QUINTESSENTIAL BEACH ESCAPE, 50 YEARS ON

MALDIVES ISLAND HOPPING

SYNONYMOUS WITH OVER WATER VILLAS, MESMERISING DIVING AND UNRIVALLED LUXURY, THE MALDIVES FIRMLY REMAINS AN INCOMPARABLE DESTINATION. WITH NUMEROUS RESORTS NOW COMPETING TO OFFER GUEST EXPERIENCES BEYOND THE EXPECTED, DAWN GIBSON-FAWCETT CHECKS OUT FIVE OF THE BEST

ONE OF THE BIGGEST LESSONS WE all learnt from the pandemic is the importance of time. Time with family. Time with loved ones. Time to oneself to recalibrate amidst the constant demands and responsibilities that come with life in the 21st century. So it is perhaps unsurprising that the appetite for experience-based luxury travel is growing, as we seek to make our time away from the everyday as memorable and as personal as possible. As arguably one of the world’s most aspirational destinations, the Maldives is riding this wave with effortless grace.

RESORTS SCATTERED AMONGST THE MALDIVES ’ 1192 islands, that are liberally distributed across the equator in the vastness of the Indian Ocean, have enjoyed a surge in demand since lockdowns eased in late 2020. Numerous properties compete with their neighbours to offer the most exclusive offerings and the biggest ‘wows’. An over water villa, fashioned by a famed interior designer, complete with a private infinity pool? Standard fare. Destination dining that fuses traditional island flavours with the latest international culinary trends? But of course. An in-villa butler at your beck-and-call to cater to your every whim? Most wouldn’t consider a Maldives stay without one.

In such a competitive market, it’s the details that make all the difference, not least, the genuine warmth of the staff, their knowledge, and their willingness to go the extra mile to make a guest’s journey that little bit better; an authentic commitment to sustainability as a way of life rather than a tick-box exercise; and the most expertly crafted and realised experience-based offerings.

IT MAY SURPRISE YOU THAT THE MALDIVES didn’t feature on the international tourism map until the 1970s. The first resorts opened fifty years ago and were instrumental in kick-starting the country’s transformation from a sleepy fishing-dependent nation to a byword for opulent escapism. Today, there are more than 160 resorts located on 26 atolls across almost 900 kilometres.

WHILST AVERAGE DAILY TEMPERATURES HOVER around the 30 Celsius year-round, the best time to visit The Maldives is between November and April, when successive hot and sunny days are the norm.

THE MALDIVES IS WELL-SERVICED BY FLIGHTS from all corners of the globe to Velana International Airport (MLE), which is close to the main island of Malé, the nation’s capital. You can be in Malé in little more than 10 hours from London and four hours from Dubai.

The method of onward travel to your resort depends on its geographical proximity to Malé, although some resorts are closer to the Maldives’ second largest international airport, Gan (GAN), which is a few hours’ flight from the Sri Lankan capital of Colombo. The closest resorts to Malé can be reached by speedboat, whilst those further afield necessitate a seaplane or domestic flight of anything up to an hour. Local transfers from Malé are almost always organised by the resorts and many also cover the cost. But in some cases, to get to your resort of choice can cost upwards of USD 500 per person. So be sure to check the cost of local transfers before you book.

DESPITE THE COST, A SEAPLANE FLIGHT IS THE most memorable way to begin your Maldivian adventure and will give you an appreciation of the geography and sheer magnificence of the destination. For while the Maldives covers a massive 90,000 square kilometres, less

than 300 square kilometres is dry land and only 200 of its islands are inhabited. From the air, these islands resemble a loose string of jewels, fringed by gleaming white sands and deep turquoise lagoons, making it abundantly clear why the name ‘Maldives’ is believed to have originated from the ancient Sanskrit for ‘garland’ and ‘island’.

A STOPPING POINT BETWEEN THE MIDDLE EAST and South Asia for centuries, with a storied Buddhist and Islamic history, the Maldives is a perennial magnet for divers and snorkellers due to its rich marine biodiversity. The coral reefs that are the foundation of the island nation are home to more than 1,000 species of tropical fish, as well as sea turtles, manta rays and playful dolphins aplenty. If you are fortunate, you may find yourself gasping at the size of a whale shark, as it swims alongside you. It is a fabulously beautiful but incredibly delicate ecosystem under constant threat from environmental change, with two significant coral bleaching events

already hitting the Maldives in 1998 and 2016. Also, considering that the Maldives is on average just one-anda-half metres above sea level, the entire nation is one of the most threatened on the planet by climate change and rising sea levels. So, as well as the designation of a number of protected areas, conservation efforts include coral regeneration projects, concerted efforts to protect sea turtles and regular beach and reef clean-ups.

ONE MORE POINT BEFORE DELVING INTO THE offerings of five of the archipelago’s acclaimed five-star resorts on the following pages: while you may be visiting one of the most Instagramable places on the planet, please ensure that you take the time to put down your mobile and really savour your surroundings. A place as precious and as beautiful as the Maldives deserves your complete attention. Toss away your shoes, take a deep breath and let us begin. This is your armchair guide to the luxe diversity of what the flawless Maldives has to offer.

THE FIRST THING ONE NOTICES WHEN arriving at Raffles Maldives Meradhoo is the noise. To be precise, the lack of it. The sound of small waves meeting powder-soft white sand competes only with the ocean breeze ruffling the palm trees and the occasional scuttle of a crab navigating the thick foliage.

SITUATED ON A REMOTE PRIVATE ISLAND IN Gaafu Alifu Atoll, amidst some of the most untouched coral reefs in the Maldives, it’s easy to see why this ultraexclusive boutique property is a favourite with privacyseeking celebrities and VIPs. Each over water or beachside villa and residence is a tranquil island within an island, screened by design and greenery from prying eyes.

The immaculate attention to detail is evident from the outset. After booking, guests are requested to communicate their preferences about everything from favourite foods and music to air-conditioning temperature. Would one prefer lavender, jasmine or lemongrass bathroom amenities? Buckwheat, reading, neck support or memory foam pillow?

THE RESORT IS REACHED VIA A ONE-HOUR flight from Malé to Kaadedhdhoo Island followed by a 20-minute speedboat ride. Upon landing, guests are met by a personal butler who is on hand throughout to facilitate requests and curate experiences. My butler, Yasir, immediately whisks me via golf buggy towards a sunrise beach villa, pointing out the sights along the way: the Raffles Spa; the water sports and dive centres and the al fresco Long Bar – a Maldivian interpretation of the brand’s iconic namesake at Raffles Singapore. The journey takes less than five minutes and Yasir is soon opening the gates to a tropical beachfront oasis which is to be my home for the coming days.

THE VILLA IS THE EPITOME OF ABSOLUTE LUXURY. A king-sized four-poster bed is positioned to maximise the view through wrap-around floor-to-ceiling windows over lush gardens and a private pool. A sand path leads from the veranda to the ocean, just a few steps away. Day beds are scattered throughout the 220 square metre expanse, while the marble-finished bathroom is replete with a square statement bath fit for Cleopatra. The smallest details are painstakingly considered, from the remote-controlled black-out screens to a bedside tablet for access to global magazines and newspapers for leisurely reading. Pops of teal and coral echo the ocean, while cowrie shell ornaments nod to local heritage (before paper money, Maldivian cowrie were used as currency in Asia and East Africa).

BOASTING TWO HOUSE REEFS JUST METRES from the shore, the clear waters around Meradhoo are a stand-out attraction for divers and snorkellers, with marine life that includes 25 critically endangered Hawksbill turtles and the occasional passing whale shark. Resident marine biologist Amandine Vuylsteke is available to take guests on guided snorkelling tours, in between working on the resort’s conservation projects.

Sustainability is a key theme here, noticeable in the lack of plastic and the daily purchase of line-caught local fish, which is served in the relaxed all-day-dining restaurant, Thari, and fine dining venue, Yuzu. The freshest catches of the day are also cooked over coal flame at Firepit, the resort’s magical sunset venue, literally on the beach.

SET WITHIN OPEN-AIR BEACHSIDE PAVILIONS and offering an array of Asian and European dishes tempered with local spices, the Maldivian breakfast at Thari is standout. While at Yuzu, chef Luis Gavancho Quibajo specialises in Nikkei cuisine, fusing Peruvian ingredients and Japanese cooking techniques to create exquisite dishes, the best of which is his Lobster Yakisoba, consisting of stir-fried lobster with noodles, vegetables and a teriyaki sauce.

WELLNESS IS A CENTRAL THEME AT RAFFLES

Maldives Meradhoo and is reflected in both the resort’s food and beverage offerings and its facilities, such as the oceanfront fitness centre (which never closes) and the sunrise yoga deck.

End your stay with a visit to the Feng-Shui designed over water Raffles Spa, surrounded by water and set under blue skies. Here you can indulge in an Island Relaxing Massage, using exclusive Sodashi massage oil, while looking down into the blue ocean. The serenity is matchless. https:// rafflesmaldives.com

SIPPING A GIN CITRUS COCKTAIL AT THE POOL bar at Mercure Maldives Kooddoo on a gloriously sunny day, the only decision one has to make is what to do next. Cool down in the expansive pool, or summon the energy to snorkel off the pristine white sand beach just a few metres away? Go for a dolphin cruise, indulge in a coconut oil spa treatment or simply order another cocktail? Mercure’s non-restrictive Maldivian resort has curated enticing offerings which enable guests to be as active or as laid-back as they wish during their stay in this veritable adults-only premium playground.

The resort’s all-inclusive offering covers meals and snacks in three dining venues: ALITA - an all-day-dining restaurant, which presents a dizzying selection of both buffet and à la carte Western and Pan-Asian dishes every day; its adjoining pool bar complete with incredible sea views; and an Italian-themed over water restaurant, Vista. Drinks wise, guests can take their pick from some 40 different wines, a plethora of cocktails and aperitifs, and their personal, fully stocked in-villa bars, which include premium spirits and are replenished daily. Also included are some complimentary excursions, kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding.

GUESTS ARRIVE VIA A 55 -MINUTE DOMESTIC flight from Malé to Kooddoo Airport. It is possible to fly to Kooddoo by seaplane, but it’s prohibitively expensive since it necessitates a refuelling stop en route, although this didn’t deter one Bitcoin billionaire.

From Kooddoo airport, it’s less than a five-minute ride by golf buggy to the resort, where beachfront villas are tucked away down quiet sandy paths flanked by palm trees and flower-studded shrubs. Looking out across the calm turquoise ocean, over water villas are arranged in a curved ribbon connected to the shore by a wooden pier.

THE MERCURE IS LOCATED ON KOODDOO ISLAND, which is geographically within the northern part of Gaafu Alifu Atoll, renowned for its picturesque beaches and turquoise waters as well as an abundance of sea life. Snorkelers and divers enjoy close encounters with manta rays, turtles and reef sharks plus an array of

THE ALL-INCLUSIVE ADULTS-ONLY PLAYGROUND

colourful reef fish. If you have never dived before, this is the perfect place to venture under the water for the first time and a scuba diving trial is part of the resort’s all-inclusive offering. Meanwhile certified divers can upgrade their skills or sign-up for boat dives.

Sunset fishing from a traditional Maldivian dhoni is also popular. If you manage to catch a fish (which is not especially difficult in such teeming waters), your catch will be cooked the following day, prepared in line with your preferences and served with a variety of side dishes.

A MERCURE MALDIVES KOODDOO “DINING BY Design” experience is worth the additional cost. At a

private beach dinner, your personal chef will prepare a gourmet feast, table-side, while you soak in the romantic under-the-stars ambience. Ensure you only have a light lunch that day, or skip lunch completely, because your dinner plate will groan under the weight of fat, juicy tiger prawns, lobster, delectably sweet reef fish, deliciously seasoned steaks and some of the best lamb chops you may ever taste.

A floating breakfast the following morning is equally generous. But, as delicious as it all sounds on the menu, be sure you can eat everything you order, because you may struggle to get it out of your private pool afterwards!

https://mercuremaldiveskooddooresort.com

THE CONSCIENTIOUS MARINE LOVER’S ECO-RETREAT

FAIRMONT MALDIVES SIRRU FEN FUSHI

➤ SHAVIYANI ATOLL

THE ADVENTURE BEGINS AS SOON AS ONE lands at Velana International Airport, the gateway to the Maldives. Drivers with plush electric Polestar cars escort guests to the well-appointed lounge at Malé’s seaplane terminal. Once aboard, the 55-minute flight passes too swiftly as the seaplane flies north over a panorama of coral atolls. The views are nothing short of jaw-dropping. It is not long before Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi comes into view, cradled within one of the country’s largest resort lagoons, in Shaviyani Atoll.

THE RESORT IS A TEARDROP OF DEEP GREEN bordered by white sands, pierced across its centre, like a cobalt blue belt, by the longest infinity pool in the Maldives. Over water villas stretch in two curved rows along a fish-shaped arrangement of timber piers. Guests choose between three types of luxe lodgings: over water villas, beach villas and tented villas. Each has a private pool. All enjoy a 24-hour butler service. Villas on the eastern side of the island enjoy the sunrise, while those in the west watch the sun setting across the water. All are mere footsteps from the ocean.

SUSTAINABLY SOURCED MALDIVIAN SEAFOOD

is the star attraction at the Fairmont’s stylish dining venues. Azure is not to be missed, and one must reserve a table to ensure an outdoor spot to appreciate the brilliant night sky while listening to waves break against the pier beneath your feet. Culinary highlights include the scallop ceviche and the macadamia-buttered barramundi.

On the other side of the resort, signature Japanese restaurant, Kata, is the perfect place to watch the sun sink into the ocean while feasting on fresh sushi and sashimi, followed by Robatayaki-style wagyū beef or salmon. The Fairmont’s beachfront all-day-dining restaurant, Raha Market, is equally upscale, and features one of the most beautifully presented buffet spreads you may ever cast your eyes on.

GIVEN THAT THE FAIRMONT IS LOCATED ON the fringe of a 600-hectare lagoon in one of the most northern, largely untouched atolls in the Maldives, the opportunities for exploring marine life are limitless. Book a guided snorkel or boat dive with the international team from Sub Oceanic and you’ll undoubtedly see dolphins, turtles and large schools of reef fish, including adorable clown fish living happily in their flower-like anemone homes. Divers routinely see reef sharks at cleaning stations, while, from December to April, magnificent manta rays glide through the water like underwater ballet dancers.

THE RESORT TAKES A MULTI-PRONGED approach to marine conservation and eco-tourism, spearheaded by a five-person sustainability team. Resident marine biologist and snorkelling guide Neus Segura has catalogued 33 endangered turtles living on the house reef, and works as part of the team to help protect turtle nesting sites. Segura also works with local schools to raise awareness about the threat posed by illegal poaching as well as abandoned fishing nets left to drift in the ocean.

THE RESORT’S OWN ON-SITE SUSTAINABILITY lab recycles discarded fishing nets and other plastic products retrieved from the ocean into colourful furniture, wearable art and turtle-shaped souvenirs. As well as working towards being the first zero-waste generating resort in the Maldives, the Fairmont also features the world’s first inter tidal art museum. Located just off-shore, the semi-submerged “Coralarium” by British eco-artist Jason deCaires Taylor is a gallery, coral regeneration project and marine life sanctuary, and exhibits a series of sculptural artworks on the skyline, inter-tidal waterline and seabed.

www.fairmont.com/maldives

THE FINE WINE AND WELLNESS HAVEN

MÖVENPICK RESORT

THE MIDDLE OF THE INDIAN OCEAN IS NOT AN obvious place to taste some of the world’s best wines, but that has not stopped guests being irrevocably drawn to the recently opened Oak Lounge. The latest venture by Mövenpick Resort Kuredhivaru is a beautifully realised space, where every detail from the Balinese driftwood tasting table to the Versace plates has been lovingly executed by immensely experienced Argentinian sommelier Lucas Girod, who has worked in the industry for more than two decades. And then there are the wines, more than 300 of them, hand-picked from selected vineyards and carefully freighted from 15 countries before being carefully stored at the resort. Open by appointment for pairing dinners and wine tastings, The Oak Lounge also offers al fresco lagoon tastings if

you fancy getting your feet wet while you sip.

KUREDHIVARU ISLAND IS SITUATED IN Noonu Atoll, A 45-minute journey north of the Maldivian capital by seaplane or domestic flight. The island is small enough that you can walk its length in around 10 minutes, giving it an intimate feel ideal for honeymoons or anniversaries. In contrast to some of the Maldives’ larger resorts, a genuine warmth and sense of fun is palpable amongst the Mövenpick’s staff that immeasurably enhances the guest experience. Accommodation choices include luxury over water villas, spacious beach villas and beach residences, all with their own private plunge pools, terraces and direct ocean access.

THE MÖVENPICK PRIDES ITSELF ON ITS FARMto-fork dining experiences. Every month, almost 70 kilos of fresh organic produce is harvested from the island’s hydroponic farm and garden.

Bodumas is the most glamorous of the resort’s dining venues. Set in an over water pavilion, with sweeping views across the ocean and the beach, while its locally sourced seafood is naturally popular, the plump roast duck breast with lotus root is delectable.

Located poolside, Latitude 5.5 is more relaxed, with a menu of burgers, pizzas, pastas and grilled meats, and is the perfect spot to watch the sunset while enjoying a hand-crafted cocktail.

Bamboo-roofed ONU Marché is the resort’s allday-dining restaurant and main gathering spot and features traditional Maldivian fare, including spicy curries and tuna dumplings, alongside a wide variety of Western cuisine. After dinner, the venue morphs into

something of a disco, complete with a DJ and a pair of salsa dancers hell-bent on getting as many guests as possible dancing!

WELLNESS IS ANOTHER KEY THEME AT THE Mövenpick. Multi-talented therapist Shagnika leads sunrise and sunset yoga sessions on an open-air platform at the end of a long wooden pier overlooking the water. She also offers sound healing sessions, acupuncture and cupping. Meanwhile, the resort’s multi-awardwinning Sun Spa by Healing Earth offers customisable treatments to rejuvenate and relax in over water rooms, where you can watch the fish play through a glass panel in the floor while a therapist works out your knots. One could of course argue that “vitamin sea” is itself a form of wellness therapy, and there are a multitude of ways to get your fix at Mövenpick Resort Kuredhivaru. https://movenpick.accor.com

THE FANTASY ALL-INCLUSIVE OCEAN ESCAPE

PULLMAN MALDIVES MAAMUTAA ➤ MAAMUTAA ISLAND, GAAFU ALIFU ATOLL

IF A ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME EXPERIENCE IS your raison d'être for visiting the Maldives, starting starting your day by waking up to the sight of bright, rainbow-coloured tropical fish darting amongst coral, from the comfort of your bed, is literally as unforgettable as it sounds. Pullman Maldives Maamutaa is one of only two resorts in the Maldives to boast an underwater bedroom experience, which is a novel way to appreciate the diversity of reef life. From dawn until dusk, the live show on the other side of the floor-to-ceiling glass wall in the submerged master bedroom in the resort’s duplex Aqua Villa is constantly changing. And the sight is quite simply mesmerising, especially when a reef shark casually cruises by.

The two Aqua Villas – each of which also includes a second bedroom, over water, with panoramic ocean views, not to mention a 10-metre private infinity pool – are also available to book for a special rinks experience.

SET AMONGST 18 HECTARES OF TROPICAL

greenery on Maamutaa Island in the south Maldives, guests arrive at the Pullman via a 55-minute flight from Malé to Kooddoo Airport followed by a 15-minute speedboat ride.

ASIDE FROM THE AQUA VILLAS, THE RESORT features a selection of over water and beachfront villas, many with private pools, and the Pullman is

renowned for its generous all-inclusive offering which encompasses meals, drinks and snacks across three restaurants and three bars. Guests have their own personal well-stocked in-villa bars (replenished twice daily) and a variety of activities are also complimentary, including sunset cruises, guided snorkelling, a golf simulator and karaoke.

THERE ARE A PLETHORA OF OPPORTUNITIES

to explore the water from above or below, including snorkelling with turtles, the ultimate adrenalin rush of fly-boarding, and diving one of the deepest lagoons in the area. And in keeping with the property’s eco-conscious credentials, a resident marine biologist hosts regular

evening events where guests can find out more about the habits of sharks, turtles and reef fish.

One of the resort’s most popular activities is a one-hour jet ski trip to a nearby island, guided by an experienced local with an intimate knowledge of the surrounding waters, who points out pods of dolphins as well as showing guests the best snorkelling spots, where the reef falls away into azure holes abundant with sea life.

A DAY OF WATER SPORTS IS ENOUGH TO PIQUE

anyone’s appetite, so it’s fortunate that the Pullman’s dining options are diverse. All-day-dining restaurant Mélange has live cooking stations featuring Arabic, Italian, Chinese, Indian, French and, of course, Maldivian cuisine (the tuna dumplings and the dim sum are excellent), while Phat Chameleon offers vegan and vegetarian fine dining within a Zen-style garden.

The over water Souq Oven (despite its slightly misleading Arabesque moniker) offers hearty pastas, steaks and seafood with Mediterranean flavours complemented by 80 international wines. The Filetto di Manzo alla Griglia is particularly good, made with a prime piece of Australian beef tenderloin and served with a moreish truffled mash.

End your stay by watching the sun slowly sink into the ocean, and spotting shapes in the gold and pinktinged clouds, at the aptly named Panorama Beach. It’s the ideal spot to sup a signature cocktail as you bid a fond farewell to Maamutaa Island.

www.pullmanmaldivesmaamutaa.com

IN CONVERSATION WITH dj paulette

RECENTLY BESTOWED WITH A LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD BY DJ

MAGAZINE, THE BRITISH MANCHESTER-BASED DJ, RADIO PRESENTER AND VOCAL ADVOCATE FOR DIVERSITY AND INCLUSION, CHATS TO THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ABOUT HER LONG CAREER AND HOW THE MUSIC INDUSTRY HAS CHANGED DURING THE PAST THIRTY YEARS

Were you musically inclined as a child?

I come from a very musical family. My six sisters and one brother all love and collect music. We all sing and dance and are all madly into clubs. And there was always music playing in our home, from Bessie Smith, Aretha Franklin, Count Basie and The Jacksons, to T-Rex, David Bowie, Roxy Music, Kate Bush and everything in between. My mum was a well-known jazz and cabaret singer through the 60s into the 90s, was often in the newspapers and headlined at numerous festivals. My grandfather was a celebrated double bass player and my mum and my aunts sang with his band. The first song I remember learning by heart was an old music hall song called Daisy Daisy that my mum taught me. I can’t have been more than two. When I was three, my sister Rhonda taught me the lyrics to Don McLean’s American Pie. I’ve never forgotten them.

What prompted you to become a DJ?

My brother Robert was a DJ in the 70s. I was taken by his box of 7” records and his sharp and cool look. He would often wear a three-piece suit with flared, high-waisted trousers and platform leather brogues. Fast forward to the 90s and a friend suggested me to the promoter of a night at the Number 1 club in Manchester. He told her that I had a massive record collection and, having been a podium dancer at the same club, was becoming a ‘face’ on Manchester’s club scene. I had never DJ’d before and didn’t have my own equipment. But I’d been clubbing since I was 15 years old, loved music and people and knew what made my family and I dance. I also drew upon my experience as a clubber at a variety of vastly different clubs, including Pips and The Gallery.

When was your first paid gig?

It was at the Number 1 club in

Manchester in 1992. I was paid £30 to DJ from 9pm ‘til 2am without a break, which was OK money back then. I spent my term’s grant (£150) on records but considered it a good investment. 30 years later I can happily say that I was right. Since I was known as a dancer there, I dressed in similarly revealing shorts and a bra top and was more concerned about being stopped by the police for what I was wearing, than I was about making a fool of myself on the decks. I had never used the equipment before, but instinctively knew what I needed to do. I asked the sound and lights technician for advice. He replied, ‘push this button, listen, push that button, slide that fader’. It was the most important DJ lesson I have ever had - thank you Ian Bushell! I made people dance all night and nobody left. I knew I’d done something life-changing, because immediately after, I was offered a weekly residency.

Tell us about your residency at Manchester’s famed Hacienda club. The Hacienda was a playground for me long before I DJ’d there. I was a regular at Nude Friday nights where Mike Pickering, Hewan Clarke and Graeme Park played. And I went to countless gigs there, including Mantronix and Jamiroquai. 80s and 90s clubbing was very chrome, mirrors, carpets and wine bars, so the Hacienda stood apart and stood out. It wasn’t a cheesy pulling palace. It was cool, edgy and stark. The

music was special and art was hanging on the walls. It was completely different to anything else in Manchester.

DJ’ing there took my experience up a notch. I got to play the main floor twice, which was nerve wracking as it was high up, overlooking a heaving dancefloor and removed from the crowd. For the rest of my residency I hosted The Pussy Parlour, which was the second room, located in the basement downstairs. It was always a sweat box because there was no air

conditioning. The decks were set up in the thick of the crowd on wobbly tables and could be toppled in an instant by over exuberant dancers. It was beautiful chaos and mayhem every month and I loved playing a lively selection of high energy disco, funk, soul and house to an adoring crowd. It was a pure baptism of fire.

Your favourite ever venue as a DJ? Sadly, many of my favourite venues don’t exist anymore. A few are Hacienda (obviously), Ministry of Sound, Fabric and Mix Club in Paris. But if I must choose just one, Cocoon in Frankfurt was as close to perfect as you can get as a DJ. Conceived by the legendary DJ Sven Vath, Cocoon was eye-popping in every way. It had a bespoke sound system and the DJ booth of every DJ’s dreams, including all the equipment one could ever want, its own private toilet and a well-stocked fridge. For the clubbers, no matter where you stood on the dancefloor, the sound was crystal clear. The VJ, lights, visuals and sound were next level. Private pods built into the walls seated groups of up to eight people. Lit with surreal neon green lighting, they surrounded the dancefloor. Inside a pod, you could regulate the sound from the main floor and waiters served you. There were also two restaurants including an excellent Japanese. I loved playing at Cocoon and cried when it closed in 2012.

You must have seen a tremendous amount of change in the three decades you’ve been a DJ?

I have seen ownership of music change from personal record collections to public streaming sites holding millions of rented libraries that we don’t in fact own. I have seen DJ’ing change from being a sexist boys club to a more inclusive environment that celebrates the achievements and talents of women and non-binary artists. I have seen party promoting change from word-of-mouth to social media blasting, while DJ events have grown from intimate 200-people gatherings to massive festivals and parties held in aircraft hangers which hold 10,000+ people and everything in between.

IMAGE: KT HALL

IMAGE: LEE BAXTER

DJ’ing was all about buying vinyl at record shops and proudly playing it at weekends on trusty Technics 1200 MK II turntables. Mixers didn’t have effects.

A small but elite group of radio stations (Radio 1, Kiss, Choice and Capital), and DJs including Pete Tong and Judge Jules, set the club and broadcasting standards for the rest of us to follow.

The advent of CDs prompted the development of new technology so that discs could be played by DJs in clubs. Around the turn of the millennium, there was talk of Serato, which was said to be ‘the future’, and not long after DJs were using their laptops to play in clubs. It was all change again in 2012 when Pioneer introduced the CDJ2000 nexus with USB capability. I used CDs until I moved to Ibiza in 2013 and have been a fully digital DJ ever since.

There were very few female DJs in 1992 when I started out. Now I am happy to say there are many more, but last year there were only nine women in DJ Magazine’s top 100 poll, and Smokin’ Jo is still the only female DJ to have ever been named DJ Of The Year.

What do you like about living in Manchester?

Manchester is all about the people. It’s a personable, friendly and helpful place. You can strike up a conversation with anyone about anything, anywhere without having to know them. It’s a place that nurtures talent, incubates ideas and protects the smaller grassroots clubs and theatres. It has plenty to offer in terms of arts, culture and events, from the Royal Exchange Theatre to the new purposebuilt Factory International building. But I am concerned about the rapid commercial construction, expansion and over gentrification of the city centre.

What career achievements are you most proud of?

I am honoured to have received the DJ Magazine Lifetime Achievement award in 2022. And, more recently, the Keychange Inspiration Award. Being recognised for my achievements

IMAGE: GORDON SOYAD MAHAT

i am honoured to have received the dj magazine lifetime achievement award in 2022

i love that I get to share my obsession with and love for music and people with like-minded crowds around the world

and career, by my industry peers, is a massive buzz, is vindication of my journey so far and is also very gratifying. Curating my Homebird exhibition for the Lowry Art Gallery in 2018 is also something I’m very proud of, having never curated anything on that scale, or in the art world, before.

Aside from DJing, what else keeps you busy?

I have two monthly radio shows: one on Reform Radio and a global residency for The Radio Department that is syndicated to stations worldwide. I am very involved with the Musicians Union and serve as a committee member in my region. I mentor for shesaid.so, which is a global community of women, gender nonconforming people and allies in the music industry. Most of all, between my mum, six sisters, one brother, a dozen nephews and nieces and more, my large family keeps me occupied in the best possible way.

What have been your greatest career challenges?

Rebuilding my career from scratch, when I returned to the UK in 2015, was intense. The landscape had changed completely in terms of clubs and many of my contacts no longer lived or worked in the city. My mum was also terribly ill and I was her primary carer, so I couldn’t work for the first two years. Achieving what I have over the past seven years is pretty good going, all things considered.

Navigating the two-and-a-half Covid years – when the nightlife industry was completely closed – was one of the biggest challenges of my DJ life. But through radio, live-streaming and Zoom interviews, I found a way to connect and engage with the music community worldwide despite the masks, social distancing and widespread shutdown. Thankfully, working and collaborating with people virtually maintained my profile, so that when we eventually came out of lockdown, I was more visible than ever before.

The best part of your job?

Doing what I love for a living is the best part of my job. I love that I get to share

my obsession with and love for music and people with like-minded crowds around the world, at events and on the radio. It’s a blessing and a gift and I’m very grateful for it. It’s awesome that I get to travel and experience different countries and cultures into the bargain. The hotels and hospitality around the world can also be top notch.

Tell us about your new book I always knew that I’d eventually put my English degree to use! I am currently putting the finishing touches to Welcome To The Club: The Life And Lessons Of A Black Woman DJ The book provides an overview of my career from selected tipping points, and discusses them with some of the legendary people I have worked for and with or was mentored by, to create a more rounded perspective. It’s my debut book and the first of its kind written from a black woman’s perspective, so expect some interesting views and opinions on the culture, the reporting of its history and the gender politics at play. The process of writing a book has been revelatory. Most other DJ books have been ghost-written. Mine came from my own head and hand directly to the pages. It’s part biography, part handbook, part love letter to a culture and industry and part a call to arms.

It’s an incisive, upbeat, revelatory, raw, honest, positive and funny read that I hope inspires people to pick up a pair of headphones, buy their own decks and follow this beautiful path.

How do you relax?

I like to cook and love to kick back with a hot cup of herbal tea or an infusion. I have a small garden that I love to plant and potter around in, come rain or shine. I am also a houseplant whisperer and occasionally adopt plants in need of TLC and transform them into beauties. I also keep fit, regularly do yoga, walk around five kilometres every day, swim and gym at least twice a week. I get out into nature. I burn pure essential oils if my mind is racing. I write it all down in my journal before going to bed. And I try to get seven hours sleep every night, when I’m not DJ’ing!

Your favourite hotel in the world?

The Gstaad Palace for its impeccable service, incredible food, spectacular views, attention to detail and first-class room service.

Do you enjoy leisure travelling?

Totally! I don’t travel enough for pleasure and need to make time for more, but when it happens, I fully appreciate holidays. Mind you, I apply the tips and tricks that I have acquired from travelling for work, such as checking-in in advance, timing my transfers carefully and packing sensibly.

What advice would you give a young, budding DJ?

Love what you do. Be courageous, fearless and go for it. Be yourself and let your spirit shine in a way that it lifts you above the rest. Find your tribe and build a solid support network that will back you up through the good times and give you strength when the hard times come. Remember that life is a marathon, not a sprint, so take your time, do it right, take advice and learn from your mistakes.

Welcome To The Club: The Life And Lessons Of A Black Woman

DJ by DJ Paulette will be published in January 2024

IMAGE: LEE BAXTER

Gstaad Palace

suite envy the most regal views in budapest

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU LODGES IN AN EXTRAORDINARY MULTI-LEVEL SUITE, SET WITHIN A 120-YEAR-OLD TOWER ATOP ONE OF BUDAPEST’S MOST STORIED PALACES

DESPITE A SOMEWHAT chequered past, which has dealt Budapest a flurry of highs and a litany of dramatic lows, Hungary’s deeply storied and charismatic capital consistently exudes grandeur and ceremony citywide.

A CITY OF TWO HALVES, BUDAPEST IS separated by the relentless flow of the mighty Danube, which passes through ten countries including Hungary, as it travels 2,850 kilometres from the mountains of western Germany towards the Black Sea.

In Budapest, the Danube is spanned by eight bridges that link ancient Buda - which stands proud on a series of hills on the west side of the river - to Pest, which occupies the flatland to the east. Buda is of course dominated by its famed castle, or the Royal Palace as it is more often known. Meanwhile the impressive GothicRenaissance Hungarian Parliament building sits directly opposite, on the Pest side of the river.

MAKING ITS GLAMOROUS DÉBUT IN MID-2021, at the same time setting a new standard of luxury at the very top of the Hungarian capital’s hospitality scene, Matild Palace hotel is located in Pest, at the end of the Elizabeth Bridge, which was the only of the city's Danube bridges that was completely rebuilt in the early 1960s, having been pretty much decimated during World War II.

The beautiful, Belle Epoque palace-like building which the hotel inhabits today, was erected in 1900 at the behest of Her Royal Highness Maria Klotild,

who commissioned a pair of stately city landmarks to welcome (in suitably regal fashion) those crossing the Danube on Elisabeth Bridge. When the buildings were conceived towards the end of the 19th century as high-end tenement houses, they were designed to accommodate wealthy aristocrats in suitably plush surrounds and intended as social hubs for Budapest’s 20th century artists and academics. Matild Palace’s twin, on the opposite side of Kossuth Lajos utca (road), is currently under renovation.

A BOUNDARY-PUSHING EXAMPLE OF modernism at the time of its construction, as well as being the location of Budapest’s first elevator, the ornately styled building boasts a wealth of architectural detailing spanning the Neo-Baroque and Art-Nouveau genres, all of which was lovingly restored during its painstaking five-year renovation. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the resulting hotel is an intensely historical super-luxe property, managed by Marriott as part of part of its Luxury Collection portfolio, where guests’ every wish are fulfilled by light-hearted staff who are well-practiced at navigating all manner of requests while remaining warm and friendly.

ARRIVING TRAVELLERS ENTER MATILD PALACE

via huge wrought iron gates that bookend an impressive gold-accented lobby decorated in a palette of sultry colours, laden with plush velvet furnishings and bedecked in rich greens intended to emulate the city’s rooftops. Throughout the snazzy foyer and adjacent rooms, a reverence for the palace’s heritage is palpable.

A BANK OF ELEVATORS WHISKS GUESTS UP TO four floors of 130 rooms and suites designed by MKV Design to pay homage to the building’s heritage and offer residents every luxury and mod-con. Inventive yet tasteful Art-Deco touches abound, nodding to the Palace’s bohemian former life. TVs are hidden behind giant mirrors. Beds are as sumptuous as they get. The finishing is universally top-notch, obviously no expense having been spared by the hotel’s owners. And if you manage to reserve one of the hotel’s nine Elisabeth Bridge Suites – all of which feature soaring ceilings and bathrooms larger than most London flats – you will wake up to stunning views of the famous bridge, the Danube and Buda on the other side. But nowhere in the hotel boasts views as spectacular as the undeniably unique suite which tops the building like a prized coronet.

ACCESSED VIA THE FOURTH FLOOR BUT topping the palace in the uppermost parts of the building, the hotel’s Crown Tower Suite is split across three levels, and is the first suite in Hungary to come complete with its own 48-metre tower boasting 360-degree views of Budapest. From a relatively restrained entry-level lounge furnished with bespoke pieces in rich colours and décor inspired by the crown of Archduke Joseph Karl of Austria, a few steps lead up to a plush but modest bedroom and a spacious marblelined bathroom. It is from the bedroom upwards that things get interesting, as a narrow staircase rises into a theatrically lit square, windowless lounge. Party-like in its design and feel, the space is dominated by a massive custom sofa and accessorised with a gilt cocktail trolley laden with crystal glassware and everything needed to mix the perfect drink.

IN THE MIDDLE OF THE PARTY LOUNGE, A dramatic spiral staircase twists up into a show-stopping room positioned in the highest accessible part of the tower. It is here that the suite’s lucky residents enjoy incredible, panoramic vistas across the Hungarian capital in complete privacy, with a telescope on hand to zoom in on the city’s numerous charms. Gazing out in every direction across the city’s rooftops, to say that the suite is the pinnacle of a luxury stay in Budapest is perhaps an understatement, its views being the undisputed star of the show.

POSSIBLY A LITTLE IMPRACTICAL BUT AS extraordinary as hotel rooms come – skillfully marrying the yester-year glamour of storied Budapest with superluxe contemporary 21st century surrounds – Matild Palace’s Crown Tower Suite is imaginably the only suite of its kind in Europe, and staying within its historic tower undoubtedly makes for an incomparably regal stay.

www.matildpalace.com

A night in the Crown Tower Suite at Matild Palace starts at EUR 2,950 + taxes including breakfast and airport transfers.

SKY BRIEF

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER’S SEASONAL ROUND-UP OF GLOBAL AIR TRAVEL NEWS

BOOM SUPERSONIC’S NEW SYMPHONY ENGINE

DESIGNED TO PROPEL ITS NEW OVERTURE AIRLINERS faster than sound, at twice the speed of today's fastest passenger jets, Denver-headquartered Boom Supersonic has unveiled the design of its potent new turbo-fan engine, purposed-designed for net zero carbon efficiency and quiet operation. Capable of flying on 100% sustainable aviation fuels and each producing 35,000 pounds of thrust, the passively cooled turbine engines will be assembled at the company’s first full-scale state-of-the-art manufacturing facility, which is currently being built at Piedmont Triad International Airport in Greensboro, North Carolina. Aircraft production is expected to begin next year with the first Overture estimated to take to the skies before the end of the century. https://boomsupersonic.com

Symphony engine

DELTA PASSENGERS CAN NOW BOARD USING BIOMETRICS

SINCE PERSONAL DOCUMENTS SUCH AS ID CARDS and passports can be stolen or falsified, its unsurprising that biometrics are gaining traction in many industries, and there are numerous reasons why this technology is considered superior to conventional methods of identification. Not least, biometrics are unique to each individual and cannot be forgotten, lost or stolen. Facial recognition, for instance, is often quicker to implement and requires less

UNITED AIRLINES’ NEW PREMIUM PLUS CABIN

AVAILABLE ON CERTAIN UNITED long-haul international flights and some transcontinental domestic routes, the airline’s premium economy product, known as United Airlines Premium Plus, hovers somewhere in between business class and regular economy. It offers larger seats, complimentary alcohol and two free checked-in bags, plus reserved overhead bin space for your carry-on. Premium Plus also provides dedicated airport check-in desks, exclusive security lanes at select airports and priority boarding. Wider seats with more legroom that recline more, also have adjustable leg rests, power and USB outlets.

www.united.com

staff than traditional methods of identity verification. According to Biometric Update, in Atlanta and Detroit, Delta’s SkyMiles members registered on the airline’s Delta Sync platform can now check-in using face biometrics and get to their flights without either ID or a boarding pass. The platform also cleverly includes content personalisation for Delta’s in-flight entertainment system.

www.delta.com

VIRGIN GALACTIC TO RESUME FLYING SPACE TOURISTS

DESPITE PROPELLING THE COMPANY INTO THE mainstream global media for several months, Virgin Galactic has not conducted any launches since July 2021, when Richard Branson took a flight on board VSS Unity. This has been blamed on supply issues, labour shortages and other problems which have caused a chain of delays, forcing Virgin Galactic to pause

all flight activity for nearly two years. But Virgin Galactic recently announced that it plans to restart flying tourists in the second quarter of 2023 after a reshuffle in the leadership of the company. Upgrades to VMS Eve, one of Virgin Galactic's two twin-fuselage motherships, have also now been completed. https://www.virgingalactic.com

NEW DUCASSE BISTROT BENOIT AT CHARLES DE GAULLE

DESIGNED IN THE STYLE OF A PARISIAN LOFT, IN partnership with renowned Paris architecture firm Malherbe, travel restaurateur Areas is introducing six new food and beverage concepts to Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport’s recently reopened Terminal 1. They will neighbour each other on the revamped terminal’s mezzanine level and will include a high-end Bistrot Benoit restaurant. Owned and operated by the Ducasse Restaurant Group, the Bistro Benoit at CDG will be staffed by a team trained at École Ducasse - a Paris culinary school with a worldwide reputation for excellence. The menu will include a classic croque-monsieur, sirloin steak served with Béarnaise sauce and signature Ducasse dessert, baba au rhum (rum baba). https://www.ducasse-paris.com

Virgin Galactic's VMS Eve

Chef Alain Ducasse

QANTAS' PROJECT SUNRISE

A350 CABINS UNVEILED

IN READINESS FOR THE 2025 launch of its ultra-longhaul “Project Sunrise” flights between Melbourne and Sydney and New York City and London - both flights which take in two sunrises and will each last more than 19-hours - Qantas has revealed the first class and business class cabin prototypes on its 12 new Airbus A350 jets that will service these routes. Seating only 238 passengers per plane (which is far less than the 300+ seating configuration on most A350s), the jets will include 52 business seats and six first class suites. Given the increased amount of time passengers will be spending in the air, enhanced comfort was obviously a priority for the airline’s designers, who also enlisted the assistance of a team of scientists, including sleep researchers from the University of Sydney’s Charles Perkins Centre. www.qantas.com

AIRBUS' FUTURISTIC BLENDEDWING BODY AIRCRAFT

DESIGNED TO RUN ENTIRELY ON HYDROGEN, AIRBUS RECENTLY RELEASED more renderings of its blended-wing body (BWB) hydrogen-powered commercial aircraft, which it envisages could take to the skies in 2035. Resembling a space craft rather than a plane, its exceptionally wide interior opens up a multitude of options for hydrogen storage and distribution. In these images, the liquid hydrogen storage tanks are stored underneath the wings and hybrid-hydrogen turbofan engines provide thrust. It is believed that an aircraft such as this, in which the wings merge with the main body, could generate substantial fuel savings and significantly improve the passenger experience thanks to its extremely spacious cabin layout. www.airbus.com

KANSAS OPENS USD 1.5 BILLION AIRPORT TERMINAL

AFTER MORE THAN FIVE YEARS OF PLANNING AND construction, Kansas City has opened its slick new USD 1.5 billion terminal, replacing the airport’s outdated trio of brutalist concrete terminals which had been in operation for just over half a century. Designed, planned and engineered with inclusivity at the forefront – via a partnership between architects Skidmore, Owings & Merrill and Clark | Weitz | Clarkson (CWC) – and spearheaded by a team of consultants largely led by women, the new state-of-the-art travel hub

features 39 gates and has been designed to expand to 50 gates in the future. Every information and check-in counter is set at heights compliant with the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA). Visual paging boards alert deaf passengers about any flight changes. And alongside standard gendered restroom options, there is also an “all-gender” restroom for gender-nonconforming passengers, with extra features to ensure safety and privacy, including floor-to-ceiling partitions between cubicles. https://flykc.com

INTERCONTINENTAL PHOENICIA BEIRUT

a hospitality symbol of resilience and rebirth

A BEIRUT LANDMARK FOR MORE THAN SIX DECADES, LISA JEREJIAN EXPLORES A LEGENDARY HOTEL THAT EPITOMISES THE ENDURING SPIRIT AND APPEAL OF THE LEBANESE CAPITAL

IF THE MAGIC OF LEBANON IS TO BE appreciated anywhere, it is from the eleventh floor of the InterContinental Phoenicia Beirut. Here, the view of majestic mountains juxtaposed with idyllic palm trees and fancy yachts serves as a welcome reminder that this tiny Mediterranean country is more than just a little bit special. It is a place of bizarre and beautiful contrasts, where both pleasant and painful memories of the past are often haphazardly set aside to make way for fancy new restaurants and plush residential towers. Yet against this atypical backdrop stands the Phoenicia – a hotel that gracefully transcends its chequered history to serve as a symbol of strength, hope and defiance.

IN 1953, A LEBANESE BUSINESSMAN, NAJIB Salha, announced an ambitious plan to build a 300room luxury hotel in the heart of Beirut overlooking the Mediterranean. At the time, Lebanon was very much in the midst of a golden era. Described as “the Paris of the Middle East,” Beirut’s rich and buoyant tourism sector in the 1950s made it a magnet for film stars, dignitaries and the world’s most elite globetrotters. However, given the unprecedented scale of his project, few believed Salha would succeed.

DESPITE SOME EARLY SETBACKS – INCLUDING a massive flood in the basement and the grave political situation in Lebanon in 1958 – the visionary hotelier silenced sceptics and unveiled his masterpiece in December 1961. Literally overnight, the Phoenicia set a new benchmark in Lebanon for luxury hospitality.

DESIGNED BY THE PROLIFIC AMERICAN architect Edward Durell Stone – whose formal and highly decorative projects earned him international acclaim – it was hailed as a triumph for its effortless fusion of oriental opulence and European grandeur, not least its high ceilings, sweeping staircases and majestic pillars, all of which left guests in awe. Unsurprisingly, it wasn’t long before the hotel gained a celebrity following and affectionately became known as “La Grande Dame”. The embodiment of sophistication at the time – with a white façade punctuated by intricate concrete latticework – the new Beirut landmark took full advantage of its enviable position, overlooking the shimmering bay of Saint George, with every room and suite benefitting from glorious sea views.

SHORTLY AFTER ITS OFFICIAL OPENING THE following year on 31st March 1962, the hotel welcomed a record numbers of visitors. So ever the entrepreneur, Salha wasted no time in galvanising support for the hotel’s expansion, subsequently purchasing an adjacent plot of land in 1963. Just five years later, a 22-storey tower was unveiled to accommodate hundreds more guests, thus marking a new chapter for the hospitality icon.

THE PHOENICIA’S STRATOSPHERIC SUCCESS

in the 1960s and early 1970s was propelled by the incomparable growth and prosperity that defined its surroundings. With the capital’s tourism industry flourishing, attracting the crème de la crème of society to its shores, the hotel became synonymous with celebrity events, star-studded parties and high-society weddings. Brigitte Bardot, Catherine Deneuve, Marlon Brando and Jacques Brel were regulars, whilst the famous Egyptian actress and dancer Nadia Gamal performed a nightly show at Paon Rouge, the hotel’s nightclub.

BESIDES ITS LUXURIOUS LODGINGS, THE Phoenicia offered an impressive array of facilities, including a multipurpose cinema-theatre, an opulent ballroom and numerous dining venues, including a casual café and the cosmopolitan Les Cascades near the lobby. The top-floor Panache restaurant, arguably one of the most sought-after spots in the city, boasted a central grill that allowed guests to enjoy the live-cooking theatrics of a bevy of international chefs, many of whom were considered to be the best in the business.

ANOTHER CROWD-PLEASER WAS THE hotel’s avant-garde glass-bottomed pool, which was a consistent citywide talking point. Those seated at the bar below the pool watched guests swimming above, much like a human aquarium. The pool became so well-known that it appeared in on screen in a number of promotional videos and movies, most notably the 1965 action-thriller 24 Hours to Kill However, no one could have predicted the devastation that would befall Beirut just a few years later.

ON 13TH APRIL 1975, A BLOODY CIVIL WAR erupted in Lebanon, signalling a decade and a half of misery for the Lebanese people and the demise of the beloved Phoenicia. Occupied by militia, bombed and looted, the hotel’s tragic downfall played out like a hospitality horror movie. Three separate fires engulfed the property, causing even further damage, and it was subsequently barricaded. Ironically, the once-dazzling landmark now served as a horrifying image of a war-torn city.

REGARDLESS OF THE DIRE SITUATION IN Beirut, Salha remained resolute and tried hard to bring the Phoenicia back to life. Yet despite various talks being held in the late 70s, renovation plans were repeatedly shelved due to the ongoing conflict. Sadly, Salha was unable to realise his wish to see the Phoenicia welcoming guests again, and passed away in 1980.

ABANDONED FOR WELL OVER A DECADE , the Phoenicia’s prospects looked considerably more promising in the years following the end of the Lebanese civil war. With Mazen and Marwan Salha at the helm (Najib’s sons), a massive USD 100 million reconstruction project was launched to restore the hotel to its former glory.

ON 22ND MARCH 2000, THE PHOENICIA reopened, resembling the original in every way, with both the main building and its adjacent Roman tower fully operational and all 465 rooms welcoming guests. For those who had dined, danced, got married and celebrated milestone family occasions in the hotel decades earlier, it was a pivotal moment of elation for the Lebanese people that marked a turning point for both La Grande Dame and the city of Beirut.

A PERIOD OF RELATIVE STABILITY followed, with the hotel quickly re-establishing itself as Lebanon’s premier destination for discerning travellers. Occupancy rates slowly recovered and a palpable sense of optimism filled

the air. Yet the hotel’s tempestuous times were far from over, as the assassination of then-prime minister Rafic Hariri literally metres from the hotel plunged the city into a state of chaos and forced the Phoenicia to close once again.

DESPITE THE CAR BOMB THAT KILLED HARIRI causing extensive damage to the Phoenicia, the hotel was closed for just a few months while repairs were made. Reopening at a time when the country’s security situation was fragile, Lebanon managed to find its way out of a dark tunnel, and the hotel enjoyed an extended period of calm, until the hotel suffered the greatest blow of all, in 2020.

AFTER MONTHS OF NATIONWIDE ANTIgovernment protests over the severe deterioration of living standards, rapid inflation and deep-rooted corruption, Beirut was the victim of an apocalyptic catastrophe that left hundreds dead and thousands injured. What has come to be known worldwide as the Beirut Port blast on 4th August 2020 – the thirdlargest non-nuclear explosion in history – literally destroyed everything in its path. Needless to say, the Phoenicia was not spared and many believed that this time the hotel would be impossible to resuscitate. But that’s the thing about Beirut, it always survives, and true to form, so did the Phoenicia. In October 2022, for the third time in just over sixty years, La Grande Dame was back on her feet.

TODAY, GUESTS FEAST ON LAVISH BUFFET breakfasts in Mosaic restaurant overlooking Zaitunay Bay and sip fine Lebanese wines beside the ornate, trickling fountains in Cascade Lounge. They indulge in spa treatments in the luxe spa and work out in the sprawling gym overlooking the hotel’s elegant swimming pool. Indeed, from the hotel’s revolving entrance doors to its grand lobby staircase and the spectacular chandelier which hangs overhead, not an ounce of its charm has disappeared. In fact, the Phoenicia has never been more alluring. As it wears its scars with pride more than six decades after it first opened, the hotel is a prime example of a fabled phoenix that somehow manages to rise from the ashes time and time again to welcome its guests with genuine Lebanese warmth and pride.

DRVENGRAD SERBIA

finding culture and tranquillity in serbia's mountains

A LITTLE OFF THE BEATEN TRACK, BARBARA KASASA TRAVELS BACK IN TIME TO EXPLORE SERBIA’S SCENIC MOUNTAINS, TRADITIONAL VILLAGES, LOCAL CUISINE AND A RATHER SPECIAL FILM FESTIVAL

DESPITE BEING LOCATED IN THE heart of Europe, the small Balkan nation of Serbia is often overlooked as a tourist destination. But if you scratch below the surface, a wealth of cultural gems awaits, coupled with gorgeous scenery and wonderful cuisine, not to mention the welcoming and unpretentious Serbs.

JUST OVER 200 KILOMETRES FROM BELGRADE, nestled in the heart of Serbia's mountainous region of Zlatibor, on its northern slopes, lies a picturesque village that, over the years, has captured the hearts

of numerous visitors from around the world. This enchanting village, known as Drvengrad, is a cultural hub that both celebrates the rich history and traditions of Serbia whilst also paying homage to the art and culture of the wider world.

The brainchild of renowned Serbian film director Emir Kusturica, Drvengrad was originally built on Mećavnik hill as a set for his film Life is a Miracle, but has since become a permanent fixture in the region's cultural landscape. Whilst Drvengrad's architecture is inspired by traditional Serbian and Bosnian wooden homes, the village also incorporates elements of other cultures, including a Russian Orthodox church and

View from Banjska Stena viewpoint on Tara Mountain

a Muslim mosque. In 2005, Drvengrad won the prestigious Philippe Rotthier European Prize for architecture, for its innovative design and use of traditional materials which nicely blend the village into the surrounding landscape.

EVERY YEAR FOR THE PAST 16, DRVENGRAD has hosted the Küstendorf Film and Music Festival, which attracts filmmakers, musicians and artists from across Europe and often further afield. The festival, which was founded by Kusturica himself, is a celebration of independent and alternative cinema and music. Taking place annually in January and featuring screenings of films from all over the world, as well as live music performances and exhibitions, the festival has attracted a smattering of Hollywood A-listers in-the-know, including Monica Bellucci and Johnny Depp.

In addition to the festival, Drvengrad is home to the Mećavnik School of Film, which offers courses in film directing, screenwriting and cinematography. The school draws students from far and wide, all eager to learn from some of the most talented filmmakers on the continent.

ASIDE FROM ITS FILM AND MOVIE SCENE , Drvengrad is also popular amongst those keen to discover more about Serbian history and culture. The village's Ethnographic Museum provides a glimpse into the traditional way of life in the region and, amongst other exhibits, showcases traditional crafts that have been passed down through generations of Serbians. Meanwhile, the Andrićgrad Cultural Center – which was built in honor of Serbian writer and Nobel laureate, Ivo Andrić – chronicles Andrić's life and work, and its performance space hosts concerts and other cultural events year-round.

FOR THOSE LOOKING TO EXPLORE THE natural beauty of the region, Drvengrad is an ideal base, since the village is located close to the Tara National Park, which is home to some of the most stunning scenery in Serbia. Founded more than 40 years ago, visitors can hike through the park's lush forests, swim in its crystal-clear waters and even embark upon a rafting adventure down the Tara River. Covering more than 250 square kilometres, the park enjoys a rich diversity of flora and fauna and is home to wild brown bears as well as wolves, lynx and a wide variety of bird species.

At the park’s heart is Tara Mountain, which is one of the wealthiest in Europe in terms of the density of its forests and sheer breadth of its plants and trees, boasting more than 2,000 species. Offering visitors heavenly vistas at literally every turn and bounded

Drvengrad

Drvengrad

on one side by the spectacular deep canyon of the River Drina, Tara offers bountiful opportunities to walk, hike or simply sit and enjoy the tranquility and peace of its unspoilt natural surroundings.

FOR THOSE WHO CHOOSE TO HIKE THE mountain, ascending its slopes is a way of connecting with Tara and experiencing its true spirit. Many hiking trails traverse the entire mountain via forests, gorges, caves, open pastures and meadows. There are also plenty of viewpoints to stop and admire the glorious views.

Six kilometres from Mitrovac on a well-marked trail, pausing at Banjska Stena viewpoint quite literally renders every visitor speechless, from a mere 1,065 metres above sea level. The astonishing views take in impressive Drina Canyon, placid Lake Perućac and the Osata area in Bosnia–Herzegovina.

ANOTHER WAY TO TAKE IN THE MAGNIFICENT scenery is to hop on the renovated old narrow-gauge railway known as the Šargan Eight, which ascends some 300 metres up the mountain on its circuit. The track is laid out in the shape of a number eight and crosses the famous Šargan pass, hence the railway’s name. Once part of the main line connecting Belgrade with Sarajevo (and onwards to Dubrovnik), today the track is just over 15 kilometres long, takes around 90 minutes to ride and passes through more than 20 tunnels and over five bridges as it nostalgically chugs along.

RELATIVELY CLOSE TO TARA, 13TH CENTURY

Rača Monastery is one of the most important in Serbia and was pivotal to the development of the Serbian alphabet and latterly Serbian literature. At one point, it hosted hundreds of monks who transcribed texts from Ancient Greek, wrote histories and copied manuscripts, while being protected by an army of guards. During World War II, the monastery's altar protected the nation’s oldest book, the Miroslav Gospel, an illuminated manuscript which dates back to 1180.

NO VISIT TO SERBIA IS COMPLETE WITHOUT sampling some of the hearty local cuisine for which the region is famous and incorporates fresh local produce and traditional cooking methods. One of the most popular dishes in the area is čevapi, which is a type of grilled meat served with fresh bread and a side of ajvar – a roasted red pepper and eggplant spread. Other local delicacies which must be sampled include kajmak – a creamy dairy product similar to clotted cream – and famous Zlatibor cheese.

The small nearby city of Užice is home to a bustling farmers market, where visitors can sample and purchase a variety of locally produced cheeses, meats and other delicacies. There are also several restaurants and cafés that specialise in traditional Serbian cuisine, making Užice a good place to pit-stop for a meal.

OFFERING A WEALTH OF CULINARY AND artistic attractions unique to Drvengrad and the surrounding area, together with a plethora of spectacular natural wonders and outdoor activities makes visiting the Tara Mountain region a novel option for those seeking a relaxed, calm and understated cultural break in the heart of Europe. https://mecavnik.info/en

Čevapi

Šargan Eight Railway

Drvengrad

southeast american city brimming with culture

CITY FOCUS

CARVED INTO FICTION AND FOLKLORE COURTESY OF BEING THE BIRTHPLACE OF MARTIN LUTHER KING AND THE CITY WHERE MARGARET MITCHELL WROTE GONE WITH THE WIND , DILRAZ KUNNUMMAL EXPLORES THE CHARISMATIC CAPITAL OF GEORGIA

AS FAMOUS FOR ITS MUSICAL traditions and art and culture scenes as its part in the American Civil War and the Civil Rights Movement, not to mention being the location of the world’s busiest airport, Atlanta is a deeply historical city with one eye on its past and another on its blossoming future. The subject of a number of urban redevelopment projects in recent years, including one of the largest in the United States, the Atlanta BeltLine, make the capital of Georgia an enticing transatlantic destination for a culture-rich city break and now (with less international tourists) the perfect time to visit the beating heart of the American South.

SITUATED AT THE CONFLUENCE OF THE Chattahoochee River with Peachtree Creek, Atlanta was founded in 1836 entirely to meet the needs of the Western & Atlantic Railroad. Literally located at the end of the train line, whereupon a community quickly developed, it was first named Marthasville (in honour of the thengovernor's daughter), before being nicknamed Terminus for its rail location and finally renamed Atlanta, being the feminine of Atlantic (as in the railroad). More than 180 years later, the city remains a transportation hub – not just for the country, but also for the world – and is home to a vastly multicultural mix of more than six million people living differing lifestyles in 243 neighbourhoods.

BEING A COUNTRYWIDE TRANSPORTATION

hub for so long and supremely accessible internationally has consistently attracted an influx of industrialists, entrepreneurs, media moguls and world-renowned chefs to Atlanta, the latter giving rise to a burgeoning and diverse culinary scene. The past decade has also witnessed the opening of a number of new tourist attractions, the unveiling of sprawling food halls and a slick new streetcar system routed directly through Atlanta’s downtown hub, reinvigorating the bustling financial and commercial centre and drawing more people into the city.

ATLANTA’S HOSPITALITY OFFERINGS RANGE

from deluxe full-service properties and well known five-star brands to boutique hotels and antique-adorned bed and breakfasts. There is literally somewhere for everyone to rest their head in Atlanta, from discerning travellers and highflying CEOs to vacationing families and backpackers.

For those who like to be in the thick of it all, the 414-room Loews hotel is well located in the epicentre of midtown’s hustle and bustle – close to the Fox Theatre, Piedmont Park and the Margaret Mitchell House – and puts a lot of sights within easy walking distance. And walking is a pleasure in Atlanta. The Loews’ rooms are

The St. Regis Atlanta

The Candler Hotel

calm and modern, well-lit by floor-to-ceiling windows and walls are hung with colourful works by local artists. Book a room towards the top of the hotel’s 26 storeys for the best views. www.loewshotels.com/atlanta-hotel

The stately St. Regis Atlanta comes laden with the kind of luxuries and decadent touches discerning globetrotters expect from one of Marriott’s premium hotel brands. Located in the heart of Buckhead, the St. Regis is Southern luxury personified, complete with a bevy of immaculately turned-out butlers attending to guests’ every need. Hung with crystal chandeliers and original artworks, bedrooms are large and airy and their

The Loews Atlanta

CITY FOCUS ATLANTA

sumptuous marble-lined bathrooms are equipped with deep soaking tubs, double vanities and rain-showers.

www.stregisatlanta.com

In a modern metropolis such as Atlanta, it makes a change to stay in an ornate Beaux Arts building which is part of the city’s history. Built in 1906 by Coca-Cola founder Asa Griggs Candler and once Atlanta’s tallest building, the careful conversion of the 17-storey tower into a Hilton Curio hotel took four years. The result is the unique and storied Candler Hotel, perfectly located downtown on Atlanta’s famed Peachtree Street, bordering Woodruff Park. www.hilton.com

ONCE UNPACKED AND SETTLED, ATLANTA is a city that begs to be explored, and the ongoing transformation of 33 miles of disused railway lines into walking and cycling paths is the perfect place to start and get orientated at the same time. Itself spawning urban renewal projects including Ponce City Market and Lee + White, the Atlanta BeltLine is in many ways better than New York’s famous High Line, because it connects all parts of the city with public art and events, and by 2030 will loop around the city with streetcars and connected parks. Find the part of the BeltLine nearest to your hotel to get a feel for your neighbourhood and where everything is located in relation to your lodgings. Then make your way to the international headquarters of CNN, on the corner of Marietta Street and Centennial Olympic Park Drive, to kick-off your Atlantan immersion in the city’s downtown heart.

https://beltline.org

FOUNDED IN 1980 BY TED TURNER AND REESE

Schonfeld, CNN was the first 24-hour news channel in the world and is still headquartered in downtown Atlanta, a stone’s throw from Centennial Olympic Park, which is a 22-acre green space that serves as Georgia’s legacy of the 1996 Summer Olympic Games. Today the park is a catalyst for Atlanta’s downtown regeneration efforts, anchors a thriving entertainment and hospitality district, and at the center of a host of the city’s main attractions.

ATLANTA’S DEEP-ROOTED SPORTING connections are undeniable. Home of the Georgia Tech Yellow Jackets and the place where beach volleyball and mountain biking made their Olympic debuts, Atlanta has always been an active and energetic city, its residents being its most vocal and dedicated supporters. Sports fans of all ages will undoubtedly enjoy a tour of the architecturally striking Mercedes-Benz Stadium –the home of the Atlanta Falcons and the Atlanta United Football Club. If your timing is right, you may also be able to catch a home-field football or soccer game.

https://mercedesbenzstadium.com

Mercedes-Benz Stadium

Centennial Olympic Park

Atlanta BeltLine

Devoted to American college football and a non-profit organisation, the College Football Hall of Fame is a short stroll from the park and pays homage to the revered game and unofficial religion of the South. Here visitors can search digital displays for stats on their favourite players, with even entry tickets interactive, tailoring experiences through the building to the teams, people and games visitors name on arrival. www.cfbhall.com

WIDELY REGARDED AS “THE CRADLE OF THE Civil Rights Movement”, from 1940 for three decades, Atlanta was the movement’s epicentre, as black leaders fought for voting rights, access to public facilities and institutions, not to mention economic and educational opportunities for African Americans. Hence no visit to Atlanta is complete without visiting the fascinating National Center for Civil and Human Rights, which

is little more than five minutes’ walk from the College Football Hall of Fame.

An engaging cultural attraction that connects the American civil rights movement to today's global human rights movements, the museum comprises four main exhibition spaces, which include Morehouse College’s collection of some 10,000 items spanning more than 20 years of the life and work of Martin Luther King. www.civilandhumanrights.org

A few blocks away, the World of Coca-Cola stands in a large, once rundown 20-acre site, and charts the history of the world's most famous soft drink via multimedia exhibits, a variety of galleries, a 4D movie experience and a tasting room where dozens of beverages are on offer. A fully functioning bottling line produces a commemorative glass bottle of Coca-Cola for every visitor. www.worldofcoca-cola.com

CITY FOCUS ATLANTA

WHETHER YOU JUMP IN AN UBER OR TAKE public transport, getting around Atlanta is a doddle, and it’s pretty easy to reach most major sights via the city’s efficient transit system (MARTA). And once the Atlanta BeltLine completes its loop by 2030, Atlanta's multiuse train system will be one of the most progressive in America.

From the World of Coca-Cola, a five-minute taxi ride will take you to The King Center, which includes admittance to the house in which Martin Luther King grew up, and the church at which the civil rights leader was a pastor. www.thekingcenter.org

RUNNING FROM THE KING CENTER ALONG

Edgewood and Auburn towards Centennial Olympic Park, the Atlanta Streetcar (tram) is one of the best ways to get around downtown Atlanta.

A four-block area literally underneath Peachtree Street and Central Avenue, Underground Atlanta, also known as “the original Atlanta,” is one of the city’s most interesting attractions. Featuring the original downtown street level that was covered over in 1929 when a new street level was created one and a half storeys above, several original architectural structures survive almost a century later, including original storefronts. A historic site combining old Atlanta with 21st century restaurants and shops, despite being partially closed for renovations at present, Underground Atlanta is still worth a look-in. And at its entrance and built in 1869, the Georgia Freight Depot is the city’s oldest building. https://undergroundatl.com

Martin Luther King Jr

National Center For Civil-And Human Rights

The King Center

DISTINGUISHED FOR PRESENTING EXHIBITIONS of international and national significance alongside its comprehensive collection of more than 18,000 works, Atlanta’s High Museum of Art was the first in the world to display pieces on loan from the Louvre in Paris. Located in Atlanta’s midtown area and boasting buildings on its campus designed by big names Renzo Piano and Richard Meier, amongst others, inside The High (as it’s affectionately known) you'll literally find gorgeous bits of everything, from photography and decorative arts to classic European and American works. The High is especially renowned for its modern and contemporary collection and its 19th and 20th century

Georgia State Capitol

High Museum of Art

American decorative arts. And the museum’s marriages of art and music in its High Frequency Friday events have become somewhat legendary citywide.

www.high.org

Also midtown and definitely worth a look-in, especially for fashionistas and film buffs, is SCAD FASH Museum of Fashion + Film, which dispenses a dynamic and distinct schedule of fashion-focused exhibitions and compelling movies in the heart of the city. Beyond its massive gallery and adaptable exhibition spaces, SCAD

FASH regularly stages tightly curated fashion collections with a sharp-witted and perceptive point of view, and screens films that spark intense discussion. And due to

the Savannah College of Art & Design's (SCAD) deep and wide-ranging relationships with designers and content producers, the museum has access to some truly special temporary exhibitions, so there is always something fashion-forward to see. www.scadfash.org

Lastly of the must-see museums, no visit to Atlanta is complete without popping into the Margaret Mitchell House. Located at the corner of 10th and Peachtree streets, the small apartment on the first floor of the house is where the famed author wrote most of Gone With the Wind, several years before the great American novel (Mitchell’s first and only book) became her claim to fame. www.atlantahistorycenter.com

Margaret Mitchell House

SCAD FASH Museum of Fashion + Film

FOOD IS A FORM OF HOSPITALITY IN THE SOUTH and so in Atlanta, restaurant doors are always open, plates are always full and there are hundreds upon hundreds of places to eat and a multitude of cuisines of offer, from hearty Southern cooking to fine French cuisine and flavourful Mediterranean fare. Treat your taste buds to French cuisine at Bread & Butterfly, Mexican at Nuevo Laredo Cantina or Thai food at Talat Market. And whilst eating out in Atlanta wouldn't be complete without eating fried chicken, mac n' cheese, greens, yams and okra, the city’s proliferation of pop-up restaurants and underground dining clubs is where it’s happening at the moment food-wise, with some of the best gastronomic experiences involving a chef hosting dinners for a day or two at a bricks-and-mortar restaurant or possibly at a brewery or in a gallery. You’ll need to ask a foodie friend in the know or follow local chefs on Instagram for info about upcoming chef’s dinners and pop-ups.

REFRESHINGLY DIVERSE, EASY TO GET-AROUND, rich in history and culture, littered with arty neighbourhoods and boasting an exceptionally good international food scene, Atlanta possesses all of the ingredients needed for the perfect city break, complete with a hefty helping of Southern charm. Choose Atlanta over a more well-known American city for a stateside metropolitan adventure and you’ll invariably be won over by the eclectic city affectionately known as the Big Peach. https://discoveratlanta.com

Fox Theatre

IN THIS ISSUE, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER VISITS A GENUINE FARM-TO-TABLE RESTAURANT IN SOMERSET, A NEW STANDOUT SEAFOOD RESTAURANT IN ATHENS, AND A NEW JOËL ROBUCHON OUTPOST ON THE MEDITERRANEAN ISLAND OF CYPRUS

THE ETHICUREAN

➤ WRINGTON, UNITED KINGDOM

ESTIATORIO MILOS ATHENS

➤ ATHENS, GREECE

L’ATELIER ROBUCHON

➤ AYIA NAPA, CYPRUS

The Ethicurean Wrington, UK

REVIEW

JOE MORTIMER VISITS A RESTAURANT IN THE HILLS OF NORTH SOMERSET, WHERE ALMOST EVERYTHING ON THE MENU IS GROWN IN ITS BEAUTIFUL WALLED GARDEN

IN THE OFT OVERHYPED, overmarketed world of modern fine dining, terms like ‘sustainability’, ‘provenance’ and ‘farm-to-table’ have become overused and lost much of their impact. But sitting in the 19th century glasshouse of Barley Wood Walled Garden, gazing out over rows of fresh vegetables and miles of North Somerset countryside, the words take on fresh meaning.

PERHAPS IT’S THE SWEET PEA miso broth that does it. Poured into small earthenware cups from a cast iron Chinese teapot, it’s all warmth and earth and grass and umami-rich sweetness. It tastes of the wet, luscious garden a few feet away on the other side of the rain-spattered window, where orderly files of leeks and artichokes stand to attention in front of a patch of unruly cabbages, ready for plucking. Beyond the garden, the land unfolds in a green expanse of rolling countryside, rising up to the northern edge of the Mendip Hills and criss-crossed with ancient canals.

NEARLY EVERYTHING ON THE menu at The Ethicurean is grown in the walled garden, which is nestled on a gentle hillside just outside the village of Wrington. Meat, fish and dairy items

come from nearby suppliers: wines, all biodynamic or organic, hail from a handful of local vineyards; fish are supplied by a farm on the Dorset coast, and butter and cultured cream are produced at a dairy down the road.

ON A NORMAL DAY, THE BROTH would have been served at the enormous wooden gateway to the walled garden, something to warm the hands and set the scene as you’re led between abundant vegetable patches bursting with fresh produce. Today the garden is drizzled with a persistent rain, so the story begins in the restaurant itself, a restored glasshouse that, like the walled garden, was part of the original 1901 estate.

WE ARRIVE EARLY AND JOIN other over-eager diners in a snug bar area, taking a seat in comfy armchairs next to the wood-burner while a trio of amuse-bouches are teased out from the kitchen a few feet away. A wafer-thin turret of filo encases a ephemeral whirl of cultured cream topped with smoked char belly and crumbles of the fish’s crispy skin. It’s smoky, light and all too brief, but the Dorset-farmed fish will make another appearance later in the proceedings. Confit potato tart –a threefold ode to the spud – packs an astonishing amount of flavour into one small mouthful, as does the cheddar choux bun, which elicits a cheeseawed silence.

SETTLED IN THE GLASSHOUSE

for the main event, The Ethicurean’s rags to riches story properly comes together. Abandoned and unloved, the walled garden, adjacent orchard and the outbuildings that now house the restaurant, kitchens and a cider

Beetroot, yoghurt and elderflower

THE ETHICUREAN

➤ WRINGTON UNITED KINGDOM ATMOSPHERE FOOD

barn, were recovered in the early ‘90s and restored to their former glory. By 2010, the garden was already selling fresh produce by the bucket-load in local markets when co-founders Matthew and Ian Pennington established The Ethicurean. Head Chef Mark McCabe, who cut his teeth at River Cottage under Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall – a pioneer of sustainable dining and seasonal cuisine – came onboard as a co-owner in 2019.

HIS ETHOS HAS TAKEN THE restaurant to new heights. Post-COVID, the a la carte offering was replaced with a seasonal tasting menu, updated as and when new ingredients ripen. Seasonality is everything here. Chefs work in rhythm with the garden, crafting thoughtful dishes made from whatever’s ready to eat. And nothing is wasted. Summer’s abundance is preserved for the leaner months in rows of mason jars filled with pickled and fermented ingredients, that are attractively displayed in the main bar and are to make appearances in the evening’s tasting menu over the coming few hours.

The menu is an enigmatic scroll upon which dishes are grouped by their source: garden, canes, orchard or local

partner, rather than the order in which they appear. First up is an ode to the humble onion, a showcase of contrasting textures and complementary flavours. Charred white onion, crispy shallots, onions cooked in stout, sweet and soft, accompanied by turnip heads and blackcurrant, topped with puffed barley. It’s sweet and earthy, crunchy, tart at times. I feel like a kid in a vegetable patch.

THE ETHICUREAN WAS AWARDED

a Michelin Green Star in 2021, an award it has held on to since. As well as its seasonal, sustainable approach to dining, the restaurant takes a clear view on staff welfare and wages. A fair wage policy was introduced after the pandemic, limiting the number of working hours and ditching tips in favour of a consistent salary for all staff. Any tips left on the table are donated to a local charity. If the smiles and general warmth exuded by everyone we meet that evening are anything to go by, the experiment was a success. The Arctic char reappears, this time with grilled artichoke, preserved fennel and roasted celeriac, bathed in a fish bone velouté that’s buttery, rich

and velvet-textured. We’re having an exceedingly good time. The food speaks for itself, but the storytelling that goes into the menu only enhances our delight, helping to paint a picture of the fantastical garden world through the darkening windows.

The standout dish is a perfectly harmonious duet of chicken. On one plate: a succulent sliver of brined breast with a layer of crispy skin, accompanied by crisp Jerusalem artichoke roasties and a wild garlic and artichoke cream sauce. In a separate bowl is a chicken leg bonbon wrapped in first winter cabbage leaf, with a flurry of shaved chicken hearts scattered on top, the whole ensemble surrounded by a chicken bone broth. It looks like a giant Brussels sprout stranded in an ocean of gravy. And it’s a mouth-wateringly savoury triumph.

The humble cabbage leaf, merely a wrapper for that flavoursome bonbon, becomes so very evocative with its “first winter” prefix; a little green pioneer that braved the Spring frost to play its role and complete the dish. The chicken heart sprinkles, an inspired addition, take an already delicious little treat to another level.

Duck, swede and preserved cherry

Chef Mark McCabe

Fermented squash, rosemary sponge and sea buckthorn

DESSERTS TOO CELEBRATE

humble seasonal ingredients. Rhubarb sorbet with thyme yoghurt and freeze-dried yoghurt pips is a refreshing, crunchy, colourful delight: simultaneously cotton-candy sweet and deliciously tart. There’s wizardry afoot in the koji and plum jam dessert: a fermented barley cake with damson jam and stout reduction that somehow tastes of chocolate and marzipan despite the absence of either. A tangy blackcurrant fruit pastel and walled garden nougat tease out the garden flavours to the bitter-sweet end as we unpick the menu over coffee.

THE ETHICUREAN’S FULL

“Experience” menu is designed to take around four hours, allowing plenty of time to mooch around the garden, enjoy a drink at the bar (in my case, an Old Fashioned twist with oaked cider brandy, fig leaf gin and chipotle) and savour the food. Slowing down is part of the ethos. When the weather is fine, you take a digestif to the bonfire outside and toast marshmallows. Our attempt had to be abandoned after stormy skies resumed their onslaught moments after the first plump mallow was scorched.

There’s an immense sense of joy and satisfaction about being near to the source of the things you eat. A similar satisfaction comes from knowing that you are in tune with the seasons, eating what nature intends for us to eat at that time of year.

THE ETHICUREAN HAS successfully infused its food with a sense of place in a way that few other restaurants have managed. Perhaps it’s those views of the Mendip Hills that stirs something in the soul. Perhaps it’s the passion with which the food is planned and prepared. Or is it the overarching philosophy that make this place unique? My guess is that it’s all of the above, combined with the magic of the walled garden itself, a repository of abundant, natural goodness that has been part of the landscape longer than any of us.

TASTE & SIP REVIEW

THE ETHICUREAN

ATMOSPHERE FOOD

HEAD CHEF: Mark McCabe

ADDRESS: The Ethicurean, Barley Wood Walled Garden, Wrington, Bristol BS40 5SA, UK

TELEPHONE: +44 (0)1934 245 888

EMAIL: info@theethicurean.com

WEBSITE: https://theethicurean.com

CUISINE: Contemporary British

OPENING HOURS: Wednesday, Thursday, Friday 17:00 - 19:30; Saturday 12:00 - 15:30 + 17:00 - 19:30; Sunday 12:00 - 15:30

LUNCH PRICE: Informal set lunch GBP 75

DINNER PRICE : Experience tasting menu GBP 150

IDEAL MEAL: Experience tasting menu GBP 150 + All-In Libations wine flight GBP 65

RESERVATIONS: Essential

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

CHILDREN: Highchairs available. Weekend children’s lunch menu available

CREDIT CARDS: All major PARKING: Free on-site car park

TCT REVIEWER: Joe Mortimer for dinner

Star ratings out of five reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service and, separately, the atmosphere in the dining room

Rhubarb and yoghurt

MILOS ESTIATORIO ATHENS

➤ ATHENS, GREECE

NEWCOMER

WITH A DECADES-LONG REPUTATION FOR THE HIGHEST QUALITY SEAFOOD PREPARED SIMPLY AND SERVED IN ELEGANT SURROUNDINGS, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU DINES AT COSTAS SPILIADIS’ NEW RESTAURANT IN THE HEART OF THE GREEK CAPITAL

NEWCOMER

WHEN THE VERY first Milos restaurant opened in Montréal in 1979, founder Costas Spiliadis took Hellenic cuisine to the next level, and quickly established a reputation for serving only the highest quality seafood, prepared simply and served in elegant spaces with excellent service. It is a mantra that he upholds to this day, almost 45 years later.

BACK IN THE LATE 1970 S, TWICE a week, Spiliadis would drive from Montréal, eight hours each way, to one of the oldest fish markets on the continent – New York City's Fulton Fish Market –to ensure that only the freshest fish were served in his restaurant.

In 1997, Spiliadis opened his second restaurant, in Midtown Manhattan. More Milos restaurants followed in Athens, Las Vegas, Miami and London. A second New York restaurant opened in 2019 when Hudson Yards was unveiled. The same year, the first Milos in Mexico opened – a collaboration with Four Seasons Hotels, in Los Cabos on the Baja California Peninsula. Most recently, a swanky new Milos restaurant opened at the much talked about Atlantis The Royal resort on The Palm in Dubai. But a void was created in the growing Milos restaurant empire when its Athens outlet was forced to close as the Athens Hilton (where Milos was located) went into deep renovation. Consequently, for almost two years, there was sadly no Milos in the Greek

Costas Spiliadis

capital. Thankfully this changed in November 2021, when Spiliadis opened his first boutique hotel, Xenodocheio Milos, in central Athens.

LOCATED IN DOWNTOWN ATHENS opposite historic Old Parliament House – an architectural gem in the beating heart of the city centre – the streets around the hotel may be constantly alive with locals and tourists, but once inside Xenodocheio Milos, calm and tranquillity prevail and the affable staff are obviously intent on attending to guests’ every need.

Dedicated to the art of philoxeníā –which is essentially the ancient Greek tradition of hospitableness – Xenodocheio Milos ushered in a more attentive and hands-on style of Athenian hospitality when it opened, by offering genuine and personal service to every guest occupying its 43 rooms and suites, which are housed within two neo-classical mansions plus an extension which quietly sits in between.

Offering its guests an Athenian homeaway-from-home experience, Xenodocheio Milos is all about the food and service, and in-house guests are routinely lavished with all manner of epicurean treats, ranging from a bottle of Spiliadis’ own brand of extra virgin olive oil, presented in a ceramic bottle handmade by Attiki Keramiki, to fine afrala sea salt collected from the Ionian island of Kythira, or a bottle of the very palatable Greek red wine, Avaton, produced by Ktima Gerovassiliou in Epanomi, half an hour’s drive from Thessaloniki.

WHEN ONE ENTERS A MILOS restaurant anywhere in the world it is obvious that no expense has been spared. The same is true in Athens. Designed by Divercity Architects and Carole Topin to be the heart and soul of the hotel, Milos Estiatorio Athens is a lofty, architecturally striking split-level restaurant, boasting soaring ceilings alluding to the space being a modern Greek temple to food. Bathed in masses of natural light and liberally decorated with stone, light woods and white Dionysos marble, natural and earthy tones dominate the sanctuary-like space. Suspended overhead is a large and graceful sculpture of a fisherman’s net by Dimitris Fortsas. The walls are hung with a variety of artworks, including a series of evocative photographs of the fleshy mesocarp of a pomegranate, produced by Spiliadis’ daughter, Evridiki. Sculptural Cycladic works and ancient vessels are liberally scattered throughout. Polished and sophisticated yet warm and inviting, like every other Milos restaurant, an overarching air of calm and tranquillity sets the perfect tone for the enjoyment of a special gastronomic experience.

MILOS’ CAREFULLY CURATED and long-established relationships with Greek fishermen, wineries, cheese makers and growers of the freshest fruit and vegetables forged an actual farm-to-table ethos long before “farm-to-table” became a common term in the culinary world. And nowhere amongst Spiliadis’ restaurants is this more evident than his Athens outpost, where his decades in the industry come

Milos Special

together in absolute harmony.

THE CHALLENGE AT MILOS IS not to over-order, since everything sounds, looks and tastes incredibly good. Irrespective, it would be criminal not to begin a meal with the restaurant’s signature tower of lightly fried courgette and aubergine slices, served with kefalograviera cheese and tzatziki, known as the “Milos Special”. Stuffed with three cheeses and fresh mint, the delicately fried courgette flowers are also not to missed. And the grilled Mediterranean octopus, served with Santorini fava, is utterly delectable. However, the highlight of every meal at a Milos restaurant is undoubtedly visiting the fresh fish counter.

A signature feature of all Milos locations, in Athens, the fresh catches of the day, caught from the surrounding Mediterranean Sea, are artfully displayed, market-style on crushed ice, right in front of the glass-fronted kitchen, with handwritten signs describing each of them. One can never go wrong with a fresh sargos (sea bream) or lavraki (sea bass), simply grilled with a dusting of olive oil and a pinch of sea salt and served with steamed wild seasonal greens and a Greek salad.

WINE AND FOOD GO HAND -INhand in Greece especially, and Milos Estiatorio Athens boasts one of the best cellars in the country, with

many vintages being hand-chosen and imported by Spiliadis himself. Picked-out by the restaurant’s sommelier, Stefano Lanza, our meal is accompanied by some standout contemporary Greek wines, including a 2018 Nykteri from Ktima Tselepos on the island of Santorini. 100% Assyrtiko, the dry white is aromatic and multilayered, with a nose of ripe, caramelised citrus and honeycomb, and notes of roasted nuts and vanilla.

THE FINAL MAIN COURSE IS unsurprisingly the most theatrical, as a large dish of Risotto Gabari is elegantly placed on the table. Made with unique fresh prawns hailing from the gulf of Amvrakikos – which is a small, enclosed, bay-like sea in western Greece – the rice is perfectly cooked, and the risotto is earthy, sweet and moreish.

THE PROCEEDINGS CONCLUDE with decadent honey-coated loukoumádes accompanied by a bottle of limited-release late harvest Gerovassiliou Malagousia dessert wine. Made from over ripened Malagousia grapes, the nectar-like wine is dark gold in colour, highly aromatic on the nose and is the perfect ending to a memorable meal – one that solidifies Spiliadis’ reputation for consistently delivering some of the finest Greek seafood on the planet. www.estiatoriomilos.com

Octopus with fava

NEWCOMER

SET IN THE CENTRE OF AYIA NAPA’S SLICK YACHTING MARINA, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU ROAD TESTS THE NEWEST MEDITERRANEAN OUTPOST OF JOËL ROBUCHON’S GLOBAL GASTRONOMIC EMPIRE

BORN IN POITIERS IN 1945, JOËL Robuchon was one of the most prolific chefs in culinary history and was renowned for his innovative approach to classic French cuisine. He amassed an unrivalled 32 Michelin stars over the course of his career and his name is still very much synonymous with French gastronomy.

L’ATELIER ROBUCHON

➤ AYIA NAPA MARINA, CYPRUS

ROBUCHON'S CULINARY JOURNEY began in 1959 when he started working as an apprentice cook in a hotel kitchen. Swiftly developing a passion for cooking, he quickly rose through the ranks and went on to train under some of France’s

NEWCOMER

most celebrated chefs, not least Gaston Lenôtre and Paul Bocuse.

When Robuchon opened his first restaurant in 1981, Jamin, in Paris, it was an instant success, earning three Michelin stars within its first years of operation. But this was to be just the beginning of Robuchon's impressive and long career.

Famous for his meticulous attention to detail and his ability to combine classic French techniques with inventive flavour combinations, Robuchon was particularly fond of potatoes. Indeed, one of the late French luminary’s most famous dishes

was his signature puréed potatoes. Buttery, silky and luscious, Robuchon’s signature mash continues to be served at his restaurants around the world. “I owe everything to these mashed potatoes” he once said, during a demonstration of how to make the intensely creamy dish.

In addition to his exceptional skills in the kitchen, Robuchon was also respected for his ability to mentor and inspire young chefs, many of whom went on to achieve great success in their own right. He was also a frequent presence on television, both in France and abroad, and was always eager to share his knowledge and

passion for cooking with a wider audience. Today, Robuchon's legacy lives on through the countless diners who have enjoyed and continue to enjoy his culinary creations and the many chefs he trained before he passed away in 2018. One such protégé of Robuchon is chef Mathieu Desbat, who helms L’Atelier Robuchon which opened a year ago in the slick new Ayia Napa Marina on the island of Cyprus.

LOCATED ON THE SOUTH-EASTERN coast of the island – between the beautiful beaches of Ayia Thekla and Makronissos

Joel Robuchon

Le Caviar Imperial

– L’Atelier Robuchon restaurant and its much more casual deli and café-bar downstairs, Le Deli Robuchon, are central to modern, mixed-use Ayia Napa Marina, which is home to more than 200 apartments and villas. The complex’s twin pair of architecturally striking, twisting residential towers dominate the surrounding landscape and somewhat set the tone for the only Robuchon dining establishment for thousands of miles.

SET ABOVE ITS RELAXED YET sophisticated all-day-dining delicatessen, the dining room of L’Atelier Robuchon is a slick and sophisticated space dominated by an abundance of black gloss finishes and bright red accents, together with a large open kitchen where diners can perch on counter seating and watch their food being prepared as they indulge. It is here that Desbat calmly holds court, presiding over a small but efficient team that follows his every command dispensed in French.

HAVING HAD THE OPPORTUNITY

to train under Robuchon himself, Desbat’s passion for culinary excellence is perhaps unsurprisingly evident in every dish he touches. And pretty much everything that comes out of his kitchen is nothing short of culinary perfection, and is served with charm and warmth.

Whilst obviously French-inspired, Desbat own creativity and flair are evident in the menu, which focuses on using fresh, seasonal ingredients. The menu also features some dishes which utliise locally caught Cypriot fish and Greek produce which doesn’t have far to travel.

FOLLOWING A DELIGHTFUL AMUSEbouche of tomato and cherry gazpacho served with a feta ice cream and pistachio tuile, which firmly anchors the meal to come in the eastern Mediterranean, the show-stopping first course is served. A Robuchon classic, Le Caviar Imperial consists of a layer of lobster jelly, in the centre of which a king crab assemblage is topped with Sevruga caviar from Kefalari in Greece, and garnished with a piece of gold leaf. A veritable work of art, the dish is finished with dozens of individual dots of puréed cauliflower. Literally too goodlooking to eat, every mouthful is heavenly, and the plate is paired with a LaurentPerrier champagne courtesy of resident sommelier, George Akritides.

The meal proceeds in similar impeccably presented fashion, punctuated by two fish courses of locally caught red mullet and sea bass respectively, and a standout prawn dish served with a delicate dashi consommé.

The meaty main of caramelised leg and breast of free-range quail – filled

with foie gras mousse and served with Robuchon’s famous pomme purée – is perfectly cooked, decadent and moreish. The mash is faultless. Skillfully, the foie gras does not overwhelm the quail. And the wine pairing of a 2015 Château Clarisse Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion, from Libournais in Bordeaux, is spot on.

A PRE-DESSERT OF MANGO MOUSSE, tropical fruit salad, a mojito granita and coconut cream cleans my palate in preparation for a rich grand finale. Combining Guanaja crémeux, white chocolate ice cream and Oreo cookie crumble, Le Chocolat Sensation is a decadent and intense dish yet utterly irresistible. And serving it with a 1984 Keo St. John Commandaria Vintage – one of the world’s oldest wines, produced from some of the oldest grape varieties in the world – makes for a triumphant conclusion to a stunning and memorable meal that leaves me satiated and raving about Desbat’s highly accomplished cooking.

ALMOST CERTAINLY THE BEST modern restaurant on the island – which is saying something given that Cyprus boasts outposts by Nobu Matsuhisa and Giorgio Locatelli, amongst others – dining at L’Atelier Robuchon at Ayia Napa Marina is an intensely pleasing culinary experience from start-to-finish, not to mention something of a bargain when compared to Robuchon Paris prices! https://jrobuchoncyprus.com

Chestnut in a fine velouté, Jerusalem artichokes and celery confit, black truffle from Périgord

Crème brûlée, banana and passion fruit cream, five spices ice cream

summer fashion

DENHAM X TRICKERS SHOES

IN RECENT YEARS, DUTCH DENIM BRAND

Denham has really been raising the bar with its collaborations, having worked with Mont Blanc, Rolex and Mackintosh, to name just a few. For this season, Denham has paired with iconic British footwear brand Trickers, which has been making high quality shoes and boots since 1829 and has a royal warrant for King Charles III. These limited-edition shoes come in two colourways and are a remake of a classic Derby shoe with an added modern Vibram Morflex sole for extra comfort. GBP 505 www.denham.com

BRITISH BOXERS T-SHIRT

WHEN DEBORAH PRICE CREATED HER underwear and sleepwear brand in 2013, little did she know that she would be dressing the likes of Imelda Staunton as the Queen in The Crown and David Duchovny in Netflix film The Bubble . British Boxers is named after Deborah’s great, great, great grandfather, who was the world’s first heavyweight boxing champion. This crewneck t-shirt is made from super soft GOTS-certified 100% organic cotton and is a quality summer wardrobe basic.

GBP 29 www. british-boxers.com

BARBOUR X HOUSE OF HACKNEY BALCOME DRESS

A WORLD AWAY FROM ITS TRADITIONAL wax jackets, this season, Barbour is collaborating with the House of Hackney – a luxury British interiors brand that likes to rework tradition for today’s generation. Evoking relaxed summer days, this elegant, floral hollyhocks-print dress, secured with a delicate bow tie neck, is made of a cool, lightweight lyocell fabric. GBP 110 www.barbour.com

fashion staples

THERE IS AN ELEMENT OF TIME TRAVEL TO SUMMER 2023 WHICH WILL KEEP YOU LOOKING COOL AND STYLISH THIS VACATION SEASON. FOR THEIR NEW DESIGNS, TODAY’S DESIGNERS HAVE BEEN LOOKING BACK TO THE PAST FOR INSPIRATION. MENSWEAR IS LOOKING TO THE 80S AND THERE IS A DEFINITE 70S INFLUENCE COMING THROUGH IN WOMENSWEAR.

GUCCI HOT PINK SANDALS

WITH GRETA GERWING’S HIGHLY anticipated Barbie movie out this summer, hot pink is increasingly being seen everywhere. Inspired by an original 70s Gucci design, with the cut-out interlocking G’s in the softest leather, these sandals are perfect for when only luxury flats will do.

GBP 470 www.gucci.com

CASABLANCA STRIPED T-SHIRT

CASABLANCA IS ONE OF THE HOTTEST new menswear labels to explode in recent years. Launching in 2018, the French/Moroccan brand seeks to fuse luxe tailoring with an après sport aesthetic. Celebrated for its bold use of colour and prints on luxury bases, the brand’s creative director, Charaf Tajer, is very proud of his dual heritage. This relaxed fit, attention-grabbing crewneck rainbow striped t-shirt is made of 100% organic cotton. EUR 155 www. casablancaparis.com

RAINS TRAVEL BAG

DANISH OUTERWEAR BRAND RAINS also produces bags in its signature waterproof PU fabric. With two main compartments, a zipped front pocket, elastic cross bands, a telescopic handle and durable wheels for easy movement, this compact trolley bag is perfect for a weekend away. It’s also small enough to carry-on a plane. GBP 199 www. uk.rains.com

MORE JOY ‘DISCO’ DRESS

MORE JOY WAS ORIGINALLY SEEN on Kristopher Kane’s catwalk, but the reaction was so positive it soon spun off and became a sister brand to his mainline collection. Made in East London and reflecting the brand’s liberated sense of humour, this summer’s logo is a light-hearted take on a certain 70s sex manual and is embellished with Studio 54 esque silver crystals. GBP 375 www. morejoy.com

CUTLER AND GROSS X THE HACIENDA SUNGLASSES

THE FAMED HACIENDA NIGHTCLUB in Manchester was open for 15 years until 1997 and pretty much changed the face of UK clubbing as well as launching the careers of numerous DJs and bands. For its SS23 collection, Cutler And Gross delved into its extensive archives to inspire some new frames referencing the likes of Jarvis Cocker, Bono and New Order. Every pair is handmade in Italy and the slick ad campaign for these glasses was shot by none other than Rankin. GBP 385 cutlerandgross.com

KENZO STRAW TOTE

WHEN NIGO – THE MAN WHO created Japanese streetwear brand BAPE (A Bathing Ape) – took over as Kenzo’s creative director last year, it was time to ditch the iconic tiger logo and come up with something softer and more feminine. So Nigo designed the boke flower emblem, which is embroidered on this robust straw tote, that is perfect for the beach or the summer in the city. GBP 449 endclothing.com

STYLISH GLOBETROTTER

LACOSTE 80S POLO

LACOSTE CLAIMS TO HAVE invented the polo shirt when first worn by René Lacoste nine decades ago in 1933. If this is indeed the case, then the fashion industry owes him a huge debt, as millions are now sold every season and it really is a wardrobe basic for many men. This summer sees Lacoste’s classic polo madeover with an 80s theme in a more relaxed fit with an extra-large embroidered crocodile badge. Think Ferris Bueller! GBP 110 www. lacoste.com

POND TIE DYE PEARL NECKLACE

CO-FOUNDERS HOLLY

Archer Nicholls and Natalie Holt met while working for a big fashion jewellery company, but they were both horrified by the amount of waste they witnessed in production. So they started Pond, which prides itself on using vintage jewellery, recycled metals and dead stock for its unique pieces. This pretty necklace uses a mixture of salvaged and new freshwater pearls, which are hand dyed in small batches in their London studio. GBP 225 www. pondlondon.com

RON DORFF ‘DAD’ CAP

RON DORFF PRIDES itself on upgrading menswear must haves by fusing Swedish design and function with French style. This cute cap comes in a gorgeous pale dusty blue and is embroidered with a playful ‘DAD’ motif. As well as keeping the wearer’s head cool in the summer sun, it could make an ideal Father's Day gift on 18th June (UK). GBP 50 www. uk.rondorff.com

EMMA SHIPLEY ODYSSEY SILK SCARF

EMMA SHIPLEY LAUNCHED HER brand in 2012 after graduating from the Royal College of Art. Her highly detailed animal prints soon gained a cult following and can now be seen on wallpapers, homeware and fashion. This skinny 70s style scarf, featuring her Odyssey print, is so versatile that it can be worn as a belt or a head band, can decorate your favourite handbag, or can be worn conventionally around the neck. Designed in London and made by artisans in Italy.

GBP 95 www. emmajshipley.com

BALMAIN MONOGRAM DENIM SHORTS

THE HOUSE OF BALMAIN WAS founded in 1945 and has always been synonymous with Parisian style. Olivier Rousteing has been its creative director for the past 12 years and has helped drive the brand through a major expansion. For this summer, Rousteing has cleverly taken the classic house monogram and bleached it into these high-waisted, turned-up cuffed denim shorts, creating a clever contrast and a chic summer look. GBP 950 www. brownsfashion.com

ANZ RETRO BUCKET HAT

ALREADY BOASTING A CELEBRITY following for its kimono-style cardigans, this summer sees British brand ANZ move into other categories for the first time. Renowned for producing distinct and practical garments, this reversible woven bucket hat sports a groovy retro print on both sides and is handmade to order in the UK.

GBP 45 www. anzclothing.com

CDLP SWIM SHORTS

NOT CONTENT WITH BEING

namechecked by Vogue as “the best men’s underwear in the world”, CDLP continues to expand its swimwear line for this summer. Most of the collection is made from Econyl nylon, which reuses waste and surplus material that would otherwise have gone into landfill. Textile leftovers, industrial plastic components, carpeting and fishnets removed from the world’s oceans are just some of the materials transformed into Econyl, and seven barrels of crude oil are saved per ton of fabric produced. These super soft and comfortable swim shorts are quick drying, ensuring you look stylish from the pool to bar.

GBP 155 https:// cdlp.com

A CITY OASIS

Shangri-La Colombo; your tropical sanctuary in the heart of the city. Nestled in the heart of Colombo’s business and entertainment district; Shangri-La Colombo offers luxurious living for those seeking either short or long terms stays in the city’s most exclusive neighbourhood. Elegantly appointed accommodation reflect the perfect balance between vibrant Asian hues and contemporary design complemented by an uncompromising selection of stylish dining venues celebrating exquisite culinary flavours.

1, Galle Face, Colombo 2, Sri Lanka | www.shangri-la.com

suite with a view

THE RAFFLES ROYAL SUITE ➤ RAFFLES THE PALM, DUBAI, UAE

OCCUPYING 25 ACRES OF prime beachfront real estate on The Palm Jumeirah's prestigious West Crescent, Accor’s sumptuous second Raffles property in Dubai opened in October 2021.

Embodying the best elements of the iconic hospitality brand, palatial Raffles The Palm resort offers superluxe accommodation, a wealth of premium dining experiences and a vast array of amenities, including a private 500-metre beach and a Parisian Cinq Mōndes Spa.

FASHIONED BY PORTUGUESE AND ITALIAN

master craftsmen and the only suite of its kind in the resort, The Raffles Royal Suite embodies grace, finesse and flair and is nothing short of a majestic, Middle Eastern retreat, featuring three bedrooms, a lounge and dining room, numerous Rosa Portugallo marble-lined bathrooms, and a sprawling terrace boasting a private jacuzzi and panoramic views of Dubai’s glittering skyline and the calm turquoise waters of the Arabian Gulf.

https://www.rafflesthepalmdubai.com