Hospitality Business May 2019

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LOVE CHICKEN | QUEENSTOWN WINNERS | MAORI KAI

www.hospitalitybusiness.co.nz MAY 2019 Vol.6 No.4

Expanded NZ made series - fresh and functional by

NEW ZEALAND’S LARGEST HOSPITALITY AUDIENCE



Contents REGULARS 06 DIGEST Keep up to date with industry news!

09 IN SEASON Delicious Kiwi produce, home grown and fresh for the plate.

PEOPLE 10 THE KITCHEN SYNC We talk to Jess Daniell about her Underground Kitchen

16 QUEENSTOWN WINNERS Finalists and Winners of the Restaurant Association of New Zealand’s regional awards for Queenstown.

22 MILITARY CUISINE Retired RAF Chef Richard Shepard shares his knowledge.

26 THE MAORI KITCHEN Meet Hāngi Master Rewi Spraggon and his culinary heritage.

FEATURES 20 GLUTEN FREE Essential tips for foodservice

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30 BURGERS GALORE! Visa/Wellington On A Plate stretches out the love for a month!

30 09 16

26 HOSPITALITY BUSINESS - MAY 2019 3



Editor PUBLISHED BY The Intermedia Group Ltd 505 Rosebank Road, Avondale Auckland, 1026, New Zealand ph: 021 361 136 MANAGING DIRECTOR - PUBLISHER Dale Spencer dspencer@intermedianz.co.nz EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Paul Wootton The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd, Australia www.intermedia.com.au EDITOR - HOSPITALITY Business Kimberley Dixon kdixon@intermedianz.co.nz ph: 0274 505 502 PUBLISHING ASSISTANT Eclypse Lee elee@intermedianz.co.nz SALES DIRECTOR Wendy Steele wsteele@intermedianz.co.nz ph: 021 300 473 SALES MANAGER - THE SHOUT Jacqueline Freeman jfreeman@intermedianz.co.nz 021 256 6351 CONTRIBUTORS Jes Magill, Sue Fea, Sharon Purcell GRAPHIC DESIGNER Adrian Tipper – atipper@intermedia. com.au HEAD OF CIRCULATION Chris Blacklock – cblacklock@intermedia. com.au

MAY 2019 Vol. 6 No. 4

People Power Welcome to our May edition! This month we feature hospitality people making a difference to the New Zealand culinary scene in a variety of ways. From former journo turned chef, Darren Lovell’s passion for chicken burgers to Hangi Master Rewi Spraggon’s dedication to honouring our hangi heritage on Auckland’s Queen’s Wharf! A Christchurch couple share their bone broth secrets for our Food of The Month column and we also celebrate the winners and finalists in three categories of the Restaurant Association of New Zealand’s Queenstown excellence awards. Then we go underground to talk to Jess Daniell about her runaway success delivering dinners, and running two delis in Auckland! Our columnist Peter Nelson has some wise tips about securing your cashflow and CEO Vicki Lee announces the opening of this year’s Hospitality New Zealand Awards for Excellence!

Kimberley Dixon kdixon@ intermedianz.co.nz 0274 505 502

Kia Kaha Stay Strong.

Kimberley Dixon

PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper – jacqui@intermedia.com. au SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES Eclypse Lee – Publishing Assistant elee@intermedianz.co.nz PROUDLY SUPPORTED BY

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DISCLAIMER This publication is published by The Intermedia Group Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by New Zealand and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. Copyright © 2019 - The Intermedia Group Ltd ISSN 2382-1892

www.hospitalitybusiness.co.nz LOVE CHICKEN | QUEENSTOWN WINNERS | MAORI KAI

On the Cover: MOFFAT At Moffat we pride ourselves on providing the very best in commercial kitchen equipment. From food preparation, meal distribution, cooking, chilling, handling to baking or serving, we deliver unique, adaptive solutions to our clients worldwide.

www.hospitalitybusiness.co.nz MAY 2019 Vol.6 No.4

Expanded NZ made series - fresh and functional by

From our development processes through to our production capability to our supply partnerships and our ongoing support network, nothing is left to chance. www.moffat.co.nz l 0800 663 328 l sales@moffat.co.nz NEW ZEALAND’S LARGEST HOSPITALITY AUDIENCE HB May 2019 001-021.indd 1

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HOSPITALITY BUSINESS - MAY 2019 5


Digest In association with Hospitality Business’ online newsletter

Over 16 days Dunedin chefs, producers and restaurants will celebrate their culinary culture.

www.hospitalitybusiness.co.nz

Dinner Dates For Dine-Dunedin

Sid & Chand Sahrawat.

Christchurch Charity Lunch Raises Over $122,000+ A fundraising lunch held at Auckland fine dining institution Sid at The French Café has raised more than $122,000 for the victims of the March 15 terror attack. The event held on 28 April, saw 140 guests enjoy a six-course lunch with canapés, served by the teams from Sidart, Cassia and Sid at The French Café. All food, beverages, products and services including live and silent auction items were donated with all proceeds going via DineAid to Victim Support, to help the families affected by the attack. The event was hosted by Sid and Chand Sahrawat, MC’d by radio host Kerre McIvor with a live auction conducted by Nigel Shanks. Areeb Taimoori, owner of popular Auckland eatery 1947 shared a moving account with guests of how the events had impacted him, his family and the lives of those who lost loves ones. Sid and Chand Sahrawat say their original target was to raise $100,000 and that they were overwhelmed with the support on the day. “We felt so much love in the room. We really wanted to do something to show how much we care, even in a small way to show those whose lives will be impacted for years to come that we are united in their grief. “Areeb’s account of where he was when he heard the news of the attack – and how he lost loved ones really reinforced to all of us how many people have been touched by this and we are truly humbled by all of the support we’ve had from the wider hospitality community to rally around this event.” The event final tally was $122,245 which will be distributed by DineAid who has also been collecting in over 120 restaurants around the country for Christchurch Victim Support.

IF IT'S NEWS LET US KNOW:

Email Kimberley Dixon at kdixon@intermedianz.co.nz 6 MAY 2019 - HOSPITALITY BUSINESS

Over 16 days Dunedin chefs, producers and restaurants will celebrate their culinary culture with a series of special dinners, tastings and dining deals from June 21 until Sunday 7 July this year. Local and critically acclaimed favourites; Emerson’s Brewery, Moiety, Glenfalloch, Vault 21, Prohibition Smokehouse and New New New are creating special events, as will students from the Otago Polytechnic School of Culinary Arts. Dunedin food producers Ocho Chocolate and Harraways are also creating exclusive tastings with Ocho developing a special craft chocolate, wine and whisky tasting class and Harraways organising a Oat Breakfast. New New New is partnering with North Otago favourite, Riverstone Kitchen for the opening night of Dine Dunedin on Friday 21 June. Riverstone Kitchen chef, restauranteur and author of three cookbooks, Bevan Smith and his team will ‘pop-up’ at New New New brewery for one evening only offering a selection of their favourite winter dishes designed to match the amber beverages of New New New Corporation. Emerson’s Brewery will host an Outstanding Winner Dinner on Wednesday 26 June. Emerson’s Chef Andy Aitken, who was a judge for the 2019 Outstanding NZ Food Producer Awards, will create a special fourcourse menu showcasing Champions and medal winning produce from the Awards. His special dishes will be matched to Emerson’s craft beer. Locals and visitors to Dunedin will be encouraged to get involved, with a popular vote for their Favourite Dine Dunedin Restaurant Dish, Favourite Dine Dunedin Cafe Dish , Favourite Dine Dunedin Drink and in tribute to a southern classic, their Favourite Dine Dunedin Cheese Roll.


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Salon de Gourmets Showcases Spanish Specialties

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Celebrity Chef, Simon Gault, of Sous Chef with Salon de Gourmets representative and Adel Yousef of Food International (YOLO) at Madrid expo.

With 1600 exhibitors, more than 470,000 products on show and 93,000 visitors, the 33rd annual Salon de Gourmets Food Expo in Madrid was bigger and even more spectacular than ever this year. The only exclusive trade fair to specialise in specialist gourmet products in Europe, Salon de Gourmets showcases high-end food and beverages produced throughout Spain. It always has a vibrant atmosphere with very stylish presentation of products. The show highlighted innovations in Spanish food and culinary applications. But, as in other years it was the hundreds of different virgin olive oils – all from different olive varieties and regions of Spain – along with their famous ham and many types of cheeses and wines which really dominated the expo. The country’s huge variety of fish and shellfish were also top runners. The Kiwi contingent who attended the four-day event included Celebrity Chef, leading restaurateur and food importer, Simon Gault, of Sous Chef, Amelia Farras-Knowles of Auckland’s Iberian Foods, and Adel Yousef of Food International (YOLO). All three importers were impressed with the recent show and are excited about introducing new Spanish products here. Simon Gault loves Spain, the Spanish people and their food. He has been importing a unique range of Spanish products for several years. And soon he will land his first shipment of a very special Spanish Extra Virgin Olive Oil, which has been named as the ‘World’s Best Olive Oil.’ “How great is this for suppliers and chefs here? Imagine of all the olive oils produced this has been named as the very best,” he says with his trademark enthusiasm. “These shows are always inspirational and you get to taste things not available in New Zealand and to visualise the smile on faces when they try them here.” Simon believes this generally culminates in exciting new local trends and experimentation by Kiwi chefs. “Years ago, I introduced Italian Buffalo Mozzarella here and that inspired locals to make Mozzarella which was just as good.” Observing the interests of other importers from different countries and seeing what they visualised as adding magic in their own countries was another huge benefit of the show. Watch out for some exciting new Spanish products on supermarket and deli shelves soon.

By Robyn Yousef HOSPITALITY BUSINESS - MAY 2019 7


DIGEST

Entries Open For The 2019 New Zealand Food Awards The 2019 New Zealand Food Awards programme has officially begun, with the opening of entries for this year’s awards on Wednesday May 1. Each year New Zealand producers strive for the position at the top of our food and beverage industry – to be the Supreme Winner at the New Zealand Food Awards. The awards celebrate locallymade products that are focused on innovation and excellence. It is products exhibiting the highest levels of these core characteristics that will rise to the standard of finalist, making them eligible for the ultimate award. The online entry process has been streamlined this year, making it easier for entrants to submit their products, via a new purpose-built online portal. Entries for the competition close on Friday May 31. The awards, which have been running since 1987, are aimed at small and large food and beverage manufacturers, primary food producers, food service providers and ingredient supply companies. Finalist and winning products will earn the New Zealand Food Awards “quality mark” to highlight the superiority of their products to both shoppers and the industry, as well as boost sales and distribution.

Key dates: • • • • •

Entries Open: Wednesday May 1 Entries Close: Friday May 31 Judging: Monday July 8 – Friday July 12 Finalists announced: Wednesday August 21 Awards Gala Dinner: Wednesday October 23

Award categories: • • • • • •

Cuisine Artisan Alcoholic Beverages Non-Alcoholic Beverages Grocery Foods Chilled Foods Frozen Foods

• • • • •

8 MAY 2019 - HOSPITALITY BUSINESS

Health and Wellbeing Primary Sector Products Food Safety Culture Business Innovation Novel Food or Beverage

Last year’s winner of the New Zealand Food Awards Massey University Supreme Award was The Whole Mix Co. Limited, for the company’s vegetable noodle range. The company, owned by Marton-based Spiers Foods, also won the Massey University Health and Wellbeing Award, and the James & Wells Business Innovation Award. Finalists in 2018 included Pāmu deer milk powder, Ōra King TYEE salmon, and cultured vegan butter from Savour Ltd. The New Zealand Food Awards are made possible thanks to principal sponsor and event organiser Massey University, and with the support of Countdown, Cuisine Magazine, James & Wells, The Intermedia Group New Zealand,- publishers of Hospitality Business & FMCG business magazines, Eagle Protect, FoodHQ, New Zealand Food Safety, NZTE, The FoodBowl and Z Energy. Winners will be announced at a Gala Dinner at the SkyCity Convention Centre in Auckland on October 23. For more information and to enter, visit www.foodawards.co.nz


IN SEASON

MANDARINS

Autumn is well and truly here and with it brings amazing citrus produce. Juicy and sweet Satsuma mandarins from Kerikeri and Gisborne are in plentiful supply and are perfect for desserts and late autumnal salads when mixed with leafy greens, grapes, blue cheese and toasted nuts. Tasty and refreshing mandarins give any dish a healthy Vitamin C boost while not being too light or heavy. Satsumas should be refrigerated to extend shelf like by up to two weeks.

PRE-WINTER VEGETABLES

As the cold snaps keep coming and we move into winter, soups with healthy vegetables will be in abundance this year, with leeks, potatoes, carrots, buttercup and pumpkin already available. Cauliflower, Brussel sprouts, broccoli and cabbag e are now in season bringing heartiness to everything from side dishes to main courses. Cauliflower in particular has risen in popularity.

DRY AGED BEEF RIB EYE

Chefs are always on the lookout for that extra flavour and succulence when serving steak on their menus. Dry aged beef rib eye ticks all the boxes for that robust flavour and tender texture which only comes from using the dry ageing process. Beef + Lamb Ambassador Chef, Pablo Tacchini of Cucina in Oamaru is the proud new owner of his very own dry ageing fridge. He says being in control of the ageing process of his beef will ensure he has a premium product to serve to his customers. Pictured here is a whole rib eye in the process of being aged which will be served portioned into rib eye steaks. nzexcellenceawards.co.nz

Trevally

Trevally (Pseudocaranx dentex) are a fast-growing species of fish which school in warm North Island waters and around the top of the South Island. Most abundant at depths of 80 metres, trevally are caught yearround, although Spring through to Autumn is their peak season. Trevally reach full maturity after five years, weigh up to 5 kilograms and live to 45 years of age. They have silver bellies, deep and laterally compressed bodies, a blue-green back and a distinctive yellow sheen covering their bodies. The medium to soft texture of trevally makes it an extremely versatile protein that suited to a variety of cooking methods. It’s marbled pink flesh is slightly oily and mild-flavoured, making it a fish that’s liked by most palates. Trevally is excellent smoked and really shines when baked or pan-fried. Make sure to marinate or wrap the fish in foil first to prevent its flesh from drying out. For a complete dish, place a whole trevally in an oiled baking pan. Make 4-5 scores through the trevally’s flesh and season with salt and pepper. In a saucepan, combine grated ginger, fresh chili, soy, sesame oil, a dash of vinegar and two tablespoons of water over low heat. Baste the fish with some of the sauce, reserving the remainder for serving. Bake the fish for 20-25 minutes, until the flesh is tender and flakes away easily. For more ways to enjoy seafood, visit www.seafood.co.nz/recipes HOSPITALITY BUSINESS - MAY 2019 9


KITCHEN SYNC

Jess’ Underground Kitchen Tests New Terra Firma

Jess Daniell-always looking for cleaner, greener opportunities! 10 MAY 2019 - HOSPITALITY BUSINESS


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n 2013 keen home cook Jess Daniell was asked by her time-poor, health-conscious flat mate if she would cook dinner for her each night at $10 a plate. The concept took off. Today JUK is a booming dinner delivery service producing and distributing hundreds of meals daily. There are now two deli cafés in Auckland offering catering as well and a test kitchen and a headquarters in Morningside. Right now JUK is opening more stores and moving into the South Island. Jess shares her journey highlights so far with Hospitality Business.

What surprises you most about the evolution of JUK?

It’s been an organic evolution. I call it the “Jess Says Yes” plan and I’ve been lucky a few things have worked in my favour. When I started out social media sites such as Facebook were set up in a way that supported small start-up businesses, rather than monetised platforms and the timing was perfect without me even realising. I never planned for JUK to be an actual business, it was just a hobby for me until I found a ‘real job’. So the fact I’m still doing this six years later is the biggest surprise!

What advantages has being selftaught given you?

I’d never worked in a commercial kitchen before starting JUK, so everything that supports my business model comes from knowing how a domestic kitchen works. In this sense, we use recipes as baselines, and taste and tweak as we cook. This is the biggest advantage. It means we’re cooking intuitively and can adapt to seasonal produce, trends and what we know tastes good. It’s the food I want to eat, scaled to feed hundreds instead of one.

Has your target market changed?

Our customer demographic has changed over the years, there’s not one particular target audience. When I first started out it was to feed my peers; time-poor, young professionals. Now we feed new families, growing families, retirees and everything in-between. We’ve adapted some of our offerings, so we have mini meals and familysized meals that are less spiced, and a paleo offering that is always gluten- and dairy-free.

introduced to new machinery and equipment that makes scalability so much easier. When I first started out I was browning beef for lasagna in five frying pans. It would take over an hour to cook off enough mince for one batch. – now we have three bratt pans that make prepping so Bolognese easy.

How many meals are you producing a day?

Hundreds. We have a fantastic purpose-built production kitchen in Morningside with heaps of room to grow and houses our office team too. We have 24 permanent staff and plans to open two new stores next month, so we’re in recruitment mode!

What are your delivery/packaging models and how do you integrate green, sustainable practices?

We do all of our Auckland deliveries in-house. We tried third-party options but the level of service didn’t hit the JUK-mark. Now we have a fleet of imported UK refrigerated vans which has changed our delivery model dramatically. All of our meal packaging is commercially compostable; same with our consumables in-store and we’re always looking for cleaner, greener opportunities. I’d love to implement a reusable packaging/delivery model and we’re constantly working on ways to move towards this.

What’s your advice for passionate foodies envious of your model but don’t have your marketing skills? Marketing’s an important aspect to any business. Understand your tone of voice and stick to it, understand your story and stay true to it. If you remain authentic to your story and your tone, your genuineness will resonate with your audience. Don’t try and be something you’re not, and don’t try and be everything.

What’s next for JUK?

With our new production kitchen up and running we’re looking to scale our meals nationwide over the next 12 months and we have some new delis set to open too. Who knows – with the “Jess Says Yes” plan, anything is possible! n

What’s the most challenging aspect of scaling up?

Not understanding the options available to me in the food service industry. I used to drive from store to store on Sundays purchasing “I never everything myself planned for JUK to then taking it to my commercial be an actual business, kitchen, taking it was just a hobby for the whole day. me until I found a ‘real I now have job’. So the fact I’m still reliable suppliers doing this six years delivering first later is the biggest thing in the surprise.” morning and I’ve been HOSPITALITY BUSINESS - MAY 2019 11


Cobra serves up a fresh approach. Moffat’s popular range, Cobra, has been redefined with diversity in mind. Bringing more flexibility and fresh tools for new directions in food trends and with the trademark Cobra functionality and affordability. This New Zealand-made, powerful and fuss-free range puts the choice and the power in your hands. With equipment that will evolve with your style, your way – from edgy street food to à la carte dining, Cobra’s core pieces mix and match with new products in a way that is unique to every customer. Subtly stylish, the range delivers the capability and reliability demanded by today’s innovative chefs. In the ever-changing restaurant industry, adaptability is key. The new-look series allows you space to innovate and expand as dining evolves, while still delivering Cobra’s consistent power and reliability.

moffat.co.nz freephone 0800 66 33 28

A selection of Cobra Series matching products


ADVERTORIAL: MOFFAT

Simple Sophistication Sets Scene Just released – the updated Cobra cooking line presents a fresh and functional gallery of cooking products, offering performance without all the frills. Originating from the same stable as Blue Seal and Waldorf, all Cobra models are manufactured at Moffat’s Rolleston manufacturing facility, near Christchurch. Rationally refined and subtly stylish, Cobra products offer an entrylevel to mid-range cooking suite which is functional and loyally reliable – as well as loaded with commercial power and capability. “We are very excited about the new-look Cobra” says Moffat GM of Sales / Group Export Manager, Stuart Murray. ‘’The new expanded series offers our customers pilot and flame failure options and improved aesthetics for upfront or back-ofhouse use.” “Affordability does not mean compromise with Cobra – and the series is positioned well to meet demand for mid-level products in New Zealand as well as our international markets”. Western cooking appliances, including a range, cooktops, griddles, chargrills, a griddle toaster and salamander, are complemented by a stock pot burner, one, two and three-hole woks and noodle and pasta cookers suited for Asian fusion applications. Power and performance are delivered in a known and proven format, refined in styling, features and finish. New modular in-fill tables in 300, 450, 600, and 900 widths complement the modular cooking line perfectly. “We recognise not every customer needs the full feature richness of Blue Seal or Waldorf – and Cobra is perfectly positioned to occupy that space, with the reassurance that comes with dealing with the Moffat Group.” www.moffat.co.nz

HOSPITALITY BUSINESS - MAY 2019 13


HOSPITALITY NEW ZEALAND

As We See it Get ready: entries for the Hospitality New Zealand Awards for Excellence 2019 open on Wednesday 15 May. By Vicki Lee, CEO Hospitality New Zealand

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e are pleased to reveal that we are already gearing up for our annual awards and conference, which take place this year in Hawke’s Bay from October 15-17. The Awards for Excellence 2019 are shaping up to be the biggest and best yet, and we encourage our members to make sure they are considered for the judging process, which they can do simply by signing themselves up and make a nomination entry through our website. If you are not currently a member, but wish to join us at the 2019 awards, you can still join Hospitality New Zealand now and enter the Awards of Excellence. Each year we celebrate the best businesses in the industry, recognising their strengths and achievements, their resilience to overcome challenges and

14 MAY 2019 - HOSPITALITY BUSINESS

Hospitality New Zealand Excellence in Marketing award winners 2018 Erik's Fish and Chips, Queenstown.

their commitment to improving the standard of the hospitality industry in New Zealand. The awards are an important way for us to give back to and recognise our members who strive to offer their guests and their teams the best experience. Each year we make sure that we recognise businesses across the spectrum of our membership and the industry, with categories designed to recognise big and small accommodation providers, as well as food and beverage venues. We also endeavour to recognise the full gamut of ways in which our members display excellence with categories such as Excellence in Host Responsibility, Excellence in Gaming, Best Environmental/Sustainable Business, Excellence in Training and Staff Development and Excellence in Marketing. Last year at the 2018 awards our Excellence in Marketing winners Erik’s Fish and Chips illustrated that they really were the most fitting winners for this category by also walking away with our People’s Choice award on the

night. Catching up with Hospitality New Zealand member Anna Arndt from Erik’s Fish and Chips recently, she told us that entering the award nomination process and winning had been a very positive and beneficial experience for her business. Anna said that even just completing the nomination process had given her an opportunity to really take stock and spark off a few new ideas for the business. Winning not one but two awards on the night, she added, had helped the business in a number of ways, increasing customer awareness of the brand, boosting staff morale and giving them a well-deserved pat on the back, and ultimately given her business “great kudos”, especially as a small business owner. At Hospitality New Zealand, we love this success story of a small business. Our membership base is made up of the titans of the industry, as well as small and independent venues. As an association, we are about facilitating and celebrating the wins of both. When we get the opportunity to do so all in one evening (on October 17) - what’s not to love. Thanks for the hospitality New Zealand Entries for self-nomination to the Awards of Excellence 2019 open on Wednesday 15 May 2019. Visit our website for further information on how to enter, www.hospitality.org.nz. n


IF YOU LOVE SPORT...

THERE’S NO PLACE LIKE IT They want it. You’ll have it. SKY has nine dedicated sport channels, and even now we are finding it hard to fit in all our exclusive sporting events. A SKY subscription will give your venue all the LIVE sport you need to create that match day atmosphere for your customers. Some additional charges will apply for premium channels and events. Call us now on 0800 759 333 to cash in on the benefits of having SKY in your venue.


SOUTHERN UNITY

16 MAY 2019 - HOSPITALITY BUSINESS


SOUTHERN UNITY

Celebrating Queenstown Excellence Tanoshi takes top of the town honours

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he Queenstown hospitality industry has acknowledged the outstanding abilities of its own with the announcement of the winners at an awards ceremony held late April. Teppan and sake bar Tanoshi took out two of the top accolades winning outstanding city centre bar and the people’s choice award for outstanding establishment. The awards recognise the outstanding hospitality professionals, all of whom are making a positive impact on the local café and dining scene. The Restaurant Association of New Zealand organises and fosters

these Awards with the main purpose being to unite, grow and promote the Queenstown hospitality industry. Nestled on the hillside overlooking the bay and the Remarkables, Bespoke Kitchen took out the award for best local café with a carefully crafted menu that is focused on organic and raw ingredients. Bar accolades went to rooftop bar The Sundeck who went home with awards for outstanding bar as well as best bartender and supreme crewmember awards for William Prior. Known for its cocktails, tapas menu and live music with a view, Sundeck was recognised for providing

2019 QUEENSTOWN HOSPITALITY AWARDS WINNERS Meadow Fresh Outstanding Barista

Madeleine Strӧmbäck, Joe’s Garage

Hellers Outstanding Café

Bespoke Kitchen

Cardrona Distillery Outstanding Bartender

William Prior, The Sundeck

Asahi Outstanding Bar

The Sundeck

Kono Wines Outstanding Waiter

Elisa Bellei, Botswana Butchery

Office Max Outstanding Front of House Team

La Rumbla

Bidfood Queenstown & Silere Merino Lamb Emerging Chef Southern Hospitality Outstanding Chef Emerging Wine Service Professional

John Pickens, Akarua Wines & Kitchen by Artisan Negociants Anna Krykunivsky, The Grille by Eichardt’s

Nova Energy Outstanding Winery Restaurant OneMusic Outstanding Ambience & Design

Amisfield Bistro White + Wong’s Queenstown

Crombie Lockwood Outstanding Central City Establishment Eftpos NZ Outstanding Restaurant Skyline Queenstown Outstanding Sales Rep McCarthy Outstanding Beverage Supplier NZI Outstanding Supplier First Table People’s Choice Outstanding Establishment Trents Wholesale Supreme Crew Member Trents Wholesale Supreme Emerging Talent Trents Wholesale Supreme Establishment Trents Wholesale Supreme Supplier

Karan Dhillon, Slow Cuts

exceptional service and Mediterranean hospitality with stunning views. Recognition for the city’s top and emerging chefs went to John Pickens, Akarua Wines & Kitchen by Artisan and Karan Dhillon of Slow Cuts respectively. Creative new fitouts have also been a key feature of a new breed of hospitality establishments in the city, with White and Wongs awarded for its outstanding ambience and design. Dedication to exceptional service was also recognised with La Rumbla taking out best front of house team and Elisa Bellei of Botswana Butchery receiving the best waiter accolade. Marisa Bidois, CEO Restaurant Association of New Zealand says “Queenstown is now a force to be reckoned with when it comes to dining out offering exceptional experiences in some of the world’s most stunning settings. “As an industry it’s so important that we take time out to celebrate our success and acknowledge our achievements. We believe it’s important to shine a light on our industry and make sure we are recognised for the contribution we make to our community and economy. With all categories keenly contested, this year’s winners truly exemplify what it means to be at the top of their respective categories.” >>

Tanoshi Queenstown Botswana Butchery

Karen Bisacre, Pernod Ricard Cardrona Distillery Bidfood Queenstown Tanoshi Queenstown William Prior, The Sundeck Karan Dhillon, Slow Cuts Amisfield Bistro

“Queenstown is now a force to be reckoned with when it comes to dining out offering exceptional experiences”

Cardrona Distillery

HOSPITALITY BUSINESS - MAY 2019 17


SOUTHERN UNITY

Southern Hospitality Outstanding Chef WINNER: John Pickens, Akarua Wines & Kitchen by Artisan: John has more than 18 years’ experience discerning palates in private villas and aboard luxury superyachts from the South of France to the Greek Isles, Manhattan to Miami and throughout the Caribbean Islands. He completed his Professional Cookery Certifications in Auckland before moving on to work in large event catering as well as some of Auckland’s top restaurants, Euro, Rocco and George. John then set off to feed his passion for Mediterranean cuisine, cooking for everybody from rock stars to royalty. This has given him a passion for the flavours in Europe and South East Asia. Nine years ago John and his wife, Debbie, started Artisan Catering in Queenstown. In 2016 they were approached by Akarua Winery to start a joint venture at the old Walnut Cottage site as Akarua Wines and Kitchen by Artisan. It’s proved to be a very successful venture. John enjoys using local ingredients individually sourced around New Zealand. He’s passionate about good honest food, knowing and supporting his suppliers and serving “slick plate ups on stunning pottery”. FINALIST : Ben Batterbury, True South Dining Room, The Rees Hotel: British born Ben Batterbury has gained awardwinning notoriety since arriving in New Zealand to head up the kitchen at The Rees Hotel in 2009. Ben’s creative flair with food first attracted attention in his high school home economics class in Bristol. He trained at cooking school and worked at various English hotels. At a young age he was invited to join one of his head chefs, working in Madeira in Portugal. In his late 20’s Ben scored his first role as a head chef in Scotland for a hotel that was awarded among the top 10 percent in the United Kingdom. There he met The Rees general manager Mark Rose who invited him to work for him in Queenstown in 2009 as executive chef of True South Dining Room. Ben has won a number of top accolades, including Best Hotel Chef in Australasia in 2017, NZ Beef and Lamb Ambassador (2012, 2013, 2014) and Best Ora King Dish in NZ in 2014. Renowned as a culinary expert, Ben’s polished repertoire includes French and English fusion recipes, mingled with the Portuguese flavours he worked with in Madeira. “I do enjoy the camaraderie and banter in kitchens, but physically producing and creating something that people appreciate is the best part for me.”

FINALIST : Ben Norfolk, The Bunker: Ben first made his mark at The Bunker as a creative young chef in 2008, before heading overseas to work in Asia and Australia. Several years ago he was invited back by Bunker owner Cameron Mitchell to be involved in the restaurant and bar as a director and head chef. Ben has headed up brigades of 30 chefs in parts of Australia. He’s also worked extensively as a consultant there, opening restaurants for investors and helping revive other ones that needed help. His pedigree includes stints at Cibo in Parnell, French Cafe, Rocko and SPQR in Ponsonby where he trained under some of this country’s toughest and most highly-acclaimed chefs. Ben served his apprenticeship under Michelin Star maestro Jason Kavanagh after leaving school at a young age and working in kitchens from the age of 14. However, these days, for him, there’s nothing as refreshing and fulfilling as working at The Bunker. FINALIST : Vaughan Mabee, Amisfield Bistro Vaughan’s love of cooking was inherited from his American mother – a great cook who trained him to bake before he could even see over the counter. “I left high school at about 17 and kind of fell into a career as a chef,” says Vaughan. After beginning his career in some of Auckland’s top restaurants, including the former Cin Cin, Vaughan spent more than a decade overseas in Europe and America building his experience at some of the best restaurants in the world. Vaughan honed his skills under some of Europe’s best, training at the renowned Noma Restaurant in Copenhagen, which, in its heyday, was rated number one in the world four times. He also trained in Spain under Michelin 3 star chef Martin Berasategui at his restaurant there. Vaughan is passionate about sourcing quality New Zealand produce and he’s known for his love of foraging for native New Zealand foods that he incorporates into his dishes. His food is elegant and designed to complement Amisfield’s wines. Outside of the kitchen, Vaughan spends time with his fiancée, Ruta, and son Milton. As well as foraging, he loves to hunt and fish

Restaurant Association Of NZ Outstanding Waiter WINNER: Elisa Bellei, Botswana Butchery Raised near Bologna in Northern Italy, Elisa speaks fluent, French and Spanish, as well as English and Italian, after studying languages at university. A waiter with 10 years’ experience, overseas travel landed Elisa in Queenstown where she got a job at upmarket, lakefront restaurant Botswana Butchery. Waiting tables paid for her studies back home and she started out in Modena in a restaurant near her home. Her hospitality career also took her to the Canary Islands for two years where she worked as head waitress in a luxury resort and a small restaurant. From there she moved to Sydney where she worked at Nick’s Seafood Restaurant in Darling Harbour and on to Augustus Bistro in Auckland. Elisa also travelled in Italy before heading overseas, working in Milan and Rome. A good waiter needs immense patience so that they can handle every situation, even difficult requests, without 18 MAY 2019 - HOSPITALITY BUSINESS

becoming stressed, she says. “I always smile at the customer and say, ‘yes’, then I go and find a solution. I say, ‘no problem, no problem’, then go and ask my manager what to do if I don’t know the answer.” FINALIST : Gabrielle Cheetham, No5 Church Lane A former British wedding co-ordinator, Gabi first started out in hospitality at 15 as a kitchen porter after school in England, then a waitress at the local pub. She’s been at No5 Church Lane for several years after arriving in Queenstown for a change and working holiday. “I was working as a wedding co-ordinator, and only 21, and it was getting a bit serious, so I thought that I should go have some fun,” says Gabi, who’s from Devon. “It’s nice to chat to different people. It’s all about knowing your product well and being open and friendly,” she says. “Once you know your menu and what you’re selling


SOUTHERN UNITY you can always work something out for customers wanting different requests,” she says. “We have such lovely products at No5 – amazing cocktails, local ingredients and our mezze (shared tapas menu) so customers are generally happy.” Waiting tables is giving Gabi valuable experience that she says will be useful when she returns to wedding work. “I’ve seen the other side of things.” FINALIST : Nathan Wakely, Bazaar Queenstown Nathan grew up around hospitality in his hometown of Durham, England, starting his first weekend job in a local pub at 14. “I come from a hospitality background,” says Nathan. “My mum used to wait tables and work in pubs.” He has fond memories of sitting in English pubs watching his mum work. “I grew up around that atmosphere. There were little old men in the corner and I’d end up playing cards and dominoes with them.” Nathan later worked in various local restaurants and cafes, then at a bar in Durham for a year before heading to Australia to work in hospitality on the Gold Coast. A fortnight after he arrived in Queenstown, he started work at Bazaar, which he loves. “It’s about being open to customers, honest and being a friend - being there for them, not just waiting tables,” he says. “You need to be a companion – everything to them. They’re coming into your

‘house’ and they need to feel wanted, and that they’re not just wanted for their money.” Good product knowledge is essential and Nathan tries to create an experience for his customers. Service is definitely the cream on the top though, he says. FINALIST : Bianca Stares, The Bunker Bianca grew up in Southampton, England, starting in hospitality after school as part of the operating crew for a new, big chain American diner-style restaurant in her hometown. She’s travelled widely, working in hospitality in Australia in bars and cafes, and waiting tables. “I’ve only grown my wine knowledge since I’ve been working in Queenstown and I really love that aspect of hospitality,” says Bianca, who works some shifts as restaurant manager. “The Bunker is an amazing workplace with an amazing team. They’re just so supportive here and have faith in me which is quite overwhelming.” Management has been a whole new challenge and Bianca says she’s learned to have a lot more patience. Constantly talking to and meeting new people is a great buzz for her. “I met a sommelier from California here one night and I was star struck.” Efficiency, approachability, friendliness and knowledge about the food and beverage makes for a top waiter. Bianca is also studying the health and well-being of hospitality workers, but in the meantime restaurant management is her goal.

Meadow Fresh Outstanding Barista WINNER: Madeleine Strömbäck, Joe’s Garage Raised around the Polar Circle, Swedish barista Madeleine first honed her coffee making craft at Sweden’s Caffe Ritazza. After several years working in Sweden’s second largest city, Gothenberg, and learning all about making great coffee, Madeleine travelled overseas working in New Zealand, Australia and Asia. “I really loved Queenstown so went back there. I just love the people here so much,” she says. “I applied for a job at Joe’s Garage, came for a trial, and within a couple of days had the job. I’ve been here three years now and I love it – every second,” she says. Madeleine enjoys the personal relationship with her customers, whether they be local workers, businesspeople, families or tourists. “It’s like a personal relationship with them. Everybody is very honest and open here about how they are. I think it’s a Kiwi, or Queenstown, thing especially. A good barista should be ready to greet the customer with not only a great hot coffee, but a warm, friendly smile and, ‘Hi’. Madeleine says they should throw their whole heart into making coffee – whether it’s for locals, or guests travelling through, the coffee should be the same standard. FINALIST : Barb Griffin, Provisions of Arrowtown Barb qualified as a chef when she left school and now has about 20 years’ experience in hospitality. She’s been the barista at Provisions of Arrowtown since it opened nine years ago and is also the manager. In the early days of her career Barb did quite a bit of waitressing, working at the likes of Queenstown’s former Lakeland and THC hotels, as well as the Jazz Bar. A stint in Wellington working in her sister and brother-in-law’s café saw Barb rolling up her sleeves in the kitchen too. “I’m lucky I’ve got such a good hospitality background,” says Barb. “If we’re short at Provisions I’ll jump in and do my cameo performances in the kitchen.” She says a good barista makes great coffee and has patience and perseverance. “The majority of us here are mums and it’s a great work environment with lots of laughs so very social,” she says. “You’ve got

to be joyful and you learn that the customer’s always right, no matter what. There’s always somebody who challenges you, but kill them with kindness.” FINALIST : Benedicte Greenland, Captains Restaurant For French barista Benedicte Greenland, it all started when she left France 14 years ago to work as a waitress in a French restaurant in Scotland. She didn’t enjoy university but by the time her newfound hospitality career had landed her in Cairns, Australia, Benedicte had discovered her creative side, getting into latte art. “I was watching people do it and I wanted to learn, so I went back to the UK and worked in coffee shops,” she says. “I loved it.” She now does mornings on the coffee machine at Captain’s, where she’s also the general manager, and in charge of training the other staff. “I love making good coffee. If you put love into it and love making it, it’ll taste good. It’s all about loving your job,” she says. Benedicte has now been working in Queenstown for five and a half years, four of them at Captain’s where she started after a stint at local French restaurant Les Alps. Knowing your grinds, not burning the milk and pouring just the right amount of coffee shot makes for the perfect coffee. n

“With all categories keenly contested, this year's winners truly exemplify what it means to be at the top of their respective categories.” - Marisa Bidois

HOSPITALITY BUSINESS - MAY 2019 19


GLUTEN FREE TODAY

Essential Tips For Gluten Free Foodservice Many people follow a gluten free diet because they have a medical condition (coeliac disease, dermatitis herpetiformis or other conditions) which makes it essential to totally eliminate gluten from their diet.It is not a fad or simply a menu choice, but a daily necessity. What is coeliac disease? Coeliac disease is a permanent, autoimmune disorder caused by an intolerance to gluten, which causes the body to produce antibodies that damage the lining of the small bowel and make it impossible for the body to absorb vitamins, minerals and other nutrients from food. What is gluten? Gluten is the main protein of the cereal grains wheat, barley, oats and rye and triticale. Foods that contain gluten include bread, cakes, cereals, biscuits, pastry, pasta, batter and breadcrumbs. Gluten is hidden in many processed foods such as semolina, durum wheat, couscous, sausages, processed meats, soups, stock cubes, Asian sauces, gravies, dressings, malt vinegar, cornflour [of wheat origin], liquorice, vegemite, marmite, some beverages, and some modified starches and thickeners. Please be meticulous when checking if a product is gluten free. Always read the label.

What foods are gluten free? • Fresh fruit and vegetables, unprocessed meat, poultry and fish, eggs, nuts, legumes, milk, fats and oils and grains such as rice, corn, soy, sago, tapioca, buckwheat, millet, amaranth, sorghum, quinoa and arrowroot are all gluten free. • Foods that are labelled gluten free. • Foods that are gluten free because the ingredients used to make it are gluten free. • Gluten free baking aids such as Xanthan gum, guar gum, Vitamin C and gluten free baking powder. (Baking aids improve the texture and dough stretch factor of a product.) What is cross contamination? This occurs when gluten free foods get contaminated by gluten containing foods. The most common places this occurs is on: • Toasters, grills, pans, pots. • Chopping boards, work surfaces, benches, cleaning cloths, tea towels. • Knives, cutlery, serving spoons and tongs. • Butter, margarine, jam, honey, chutney and mustard pots. n Source: Coeliac NZ.

TOP TIPS

• Educate your kitchen staff on the importance of separating gluten free ingredients from gluten ingredients. • Use separate tongs and serving spoons when preparing the food. • Clean preparation areas and equipment prior to gluten free food preparation: bowls, knives, sieves, scales, boards, pastry brushes, cutters, baking trays, colanders. • Wash and dry hands thoroughly between tasks. • Check all ingredients carefully before preparation of any dish. • Use only gluten free flour for coating meat or fish.

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CHEF OF THE MONTH

Richard Shepard Military Precision & Consequences By Sue Fea

T

here’s nothing like the firm order and discipline of the military to sharpen skills, whatever the trade, as former Royal New Zealand Airforce head chef instructor Richard Shepard will testify. Richard, who left the Airforce in 1996, first joined in 1975 doing his chef’s training under the tough military regime of the armed services. The Airforce disbanded its chefs trade and chef’s training not that many years after he left the service. These days Richard owns a North Island commercial real estate business with his wife, but he still has fond memories of his days in the Airforce. As the head instructor for chef training for three and half years of the last six years of his military career - Richard says industry training is very different these days. There was no screaming and yelling like you’d expect in some commercial restaurant kitchens back 22 MAY 2019 - HOSPITALITY BUSINESS

then, he says, but, be assured, if you happy with the trainees, they’d be sent didn’t buck up and obey orders there back for the 16-week course.” Within were always consequences. a year of starting their training they’d The training was to a high standard be qualified for cooking on military with the military actually setting the exercises in the field for up to 130 standards for London City and Guilds servicemen on American Second qualifications back then. Young airmen World War and Korean War cooking and women could be fully qualified stoves. The young chefs had to set senior chefs with London City and up their own kitchens and serve up Guilds certification within three to delicious hotel-style meals and buffets. three and a half years. Every chef who By the time they finished training the joined the Airforce would do a basic chefs – well, some - had been literally four-week training course, then 16 thrown into the fire after completing weeks training as a chef and their five practical exams for London finishing on a 12-week senior and City in Guilds, as well as the “It was advanced chef’s course, field training component in providing they were up military kitchens. professional pride to standard. “We’d teach “We used Avgas fuel that drove us in the them first how to survive to pump up and light in the kitchen with the our field cookers, which, Airforce - we didn't basics then send them back then, were like an want to let anybody back to catering section at aluminium stove-ovendown, our workmates, Airforce bases throughout grill box that was easily New Zealand to do six folded up to go in the ‘Herc’ trade or superior months on the job,” says (Hercules) for deployment officers.” Richard. “If the bases were overseas,” says Richard. “Every


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The difference comes down to three words and one simple and effective concept: on-job training.

It’s the difference between just doing the job and doing it brilliantly. So brilliantly in fact, that your customers come back more often, spend more, bring their friends and colleagues, write favourable reviews and recommend you to others.

Some people have a talent for service, but they still need to learn the right skills to do it well. The tricks of the service trade. The art of satisfying customers.

IT TAKES A LOT MORE THAN WEARING AN APRON, AND CARRYING A COFFEE, TO BE A WAITER.

TRAINED

THEY ARE

AREN’T BORN

WAITERS


CHEF OF THE MONTH now and then they’d leak and catch alight and have been known to burn down the occasional tent.” On one occasion certified students were lighting one of these and the valve leaked. “Ten students were all in the kitchen moving around at a great rate of knots and this burner unit had left a trail of fuel all around the tent floor which ignited when the student lit it.” There was quite a commotion but nothing too difficult for Richard and the other chef instructors to sort. “We would stand on raised platforms to oversee what they were doing from a distance and give them confidence to manage every situation,” he says. “By stepping in all the time they’re not learning. We had steel hooks to hook the stove heating units out of the tent if any malfunctioned we would then put the burners out with a fire extinguisher.” The cookers were used in the field for everything - cooking breakfast, lunch and dinner for the camp servicemen. They were also used for buffets in the field where the young chefs would have to turn on a reception for up to 200-plus dignitaries, often local mayors from the nearest town and military VIP’s. “Back at the Airforce bases we could produce meals for up to 400-plus sittings at a time. Potential Airforce chefs were first vetted and selected by recruiters so you knew the trainees should not fail,” says Richard. “They were selected to fill a job vacancy. You’d finish your training on the Friday and start work at 8am on the Monday. These days the institutions are training young chefs but they may not have a job to go to,” he says.

“Every now and then they’d leak and catch alight and have been known to burn down the occasional tent.”

24 MAY 2019 - HOSPITALITY BUSINESS

Richard believes that’s why some of the younger chefs coming into the industry don’t have the drive, ability and motivation to press on with their careers. “We had that drive in the services. “It was professional pride that drove us in the Airforce. We didn’t want to let anybody down – our workmates, trade or superior officers. The military taught you, not with a big stick, that you turned up, and on time. If you didn’t fit in and buckle up the others would let you know. Nobody wanted to let the team down,” says Richard. He joined the Airforce shortly after the close of New Zealand’s involvement in the Vietnam War so the closest significant conflict during his career was the United Nations Relief Mission in Mogadishu. A 63 servicemen camp was sent there, but Richard was based at the training kitchen at Wigram Christchurch during that time. He later became a Warrant Officer developing and writing training manuals for nontechnical ground trades in the Airforce. A great training trick for the senior chefs course he used was to pair up a handful of customers with two chefs. One would cook while the other served and afterward they’d have a debrief as to how each one felt serving up the other’s meal. “A lot of chefs can hide in the kitchen but the poor waiters have to front up, so they’d reverse roles,”

says Richard. “If one thought the other’s meal wasn’t up to scratch they’d sure let their mate know about it. It quickly enforced pride in what you produced.” One of the funniest scenes he ever witnessed was watching the apron of a young female student catch alight as she turned from the stove to greet the Chief of the Airforce (CAS) during a field camp visit to Wanaka. “Everybody could see it except her and the CAS had to look down at her apron to let her know what was happening.” On another occasion Richard was in bed in his tent when he heard the early morning chefs and Sergeant discussing what to do after a dog had got into the kitchen tent and chewed the frozen meat thawing out overnight. “The chef was saying, ‘We can’t use that’, while the senior chef was saying, ‘We’ve got to. We have no other choice. We just won’t tell anybody,” laughs Richard. They were unaware that everybody in the camp was lying on their stretchers listening to the conversation. Needless to say none of their unit ate the casserole that day. Richard finished his career at the Whenuapai Air Base working as part of the newly formed Air Command. n


NELSON’S COLUMN

Cash Is King

H

– All Too Often It Is A Lure For Dishonesty

ospitality is one of the few remaining industries where cash still accounts for a large majority of the payment method. I often get asked by venue owners what is the amount that I should start getting worried about being short in my cash reconciliation? What I don’t get often asked is should I be concerned if my reconciliation is up? Cash or Till Building is an all too common method that a dishonest employee utilises to steal from a venue. It’s a simple process of placing all the cash they receive exactly where it’s supposed to go, in the cash drawer. However, they may ring up a no sale, ring in a glass of beer as opposed to a pint, a glass of wine as opposed to a bottle but take the cash from the customer for the correct product. As far as the customer is concerned they pay for and receive the correct change for what they have bought, it is the recording of the sale where the dishonesty starts.

For example by recording a sale of a bottle of wine as a glass and taking the cash from the customer for the bottle amount it means more cash is going into the cash drawer than the amount of the sale being rung up on the POS system. The dishonest employee will have some type of counting scheme to keep track of how much unrecorded money has accumulated. Then, at an opportune time (when no one is looking) they will pull the excess cash out of the drawer and pocket it. If they’ve done a “good” job, at the end of the shift they will have taken the excess amount that they have “built in the till” and in theory the cash reconciliation will balance. Our experience however is that they are not good at keeping track of how much they have built up over their shift and in general take less than they have scammed, this results in the cash reconciliation being up i.e. you have more cash than sales recorded.

Here are a couple of ways that you can use to check if you have concerns; 1. On a random basis, occasionally pull the cash drawer (swap it out with a different one). • Read the register to tell you how much cash “should” be in the drawer. • Then, count the actual cash in the drawer (less opening bank). • If you come up with excess cash you either have a problem with incompetence or someone’s stealing. 2. Start recording how many “no sales” are recorded over a shift. This is a common trend when Cash Building is occurring. 3. Take note of which staff are working when variances around cash are occurring, you can start to see patterns emerging. NEVER underestimate the lure of quick cash and the lengths some people will go to get it. n

Peter Nelson is the Managing Director of Sculpture Hospitality New Zealand & Australia


PIT STOP - MAORI STYLE

D True Maori Kai

Hāngi Master Rewi Spraggon and The Māori Kitchen have lifted Hāngi from almost being a lost art to supporting its renaissance.

26 MAY 2019 - HOSPITALITY BUSINESS

Photography: Faanati Mamea

An innovative hospitality business serving New Zealand's traditional dish. By Jes Magill

edication to ensuring Aotearoa’s 1000 year old food traditions survive has seen The Māori Kitchen, in its first month of trading, make #4 on a global list of 18 of the world’s coolest venues to open in 2019. Hospitality Business met the people behind the initiative. It takes nine hours to cook Hāngi food the true, traditional way, steamed in an earth oven on rocks heated to 600°Celsius, according to Rewi Spraggon, New Zealand’s Hāngi Master, Māori cultural ambassador and now co-owner of The Māori Kitchen on Queens Wharf – an eatery that’s grabbing attention here and overseas. Rewi opened The Māori Kitchen in March along with Ganesh Raj, awardwinning restaurateur of The Tasting Shed fame, with the vision to follow centuries-old Māori traditions, serving authentic Hāngi food, steamed in an onsite Hāngi Pit, seven days a week. The team can produce 600 meals a day from two Hāngi cooking sessions. Installing a Hāngi pit on the Queens Wharf did call for ingenuity. The solution: a steel miniskip lined with earth and Hāngi rocks. A manuka wood fire then heats the rocks to 600° Celsius and is stoked to keep them that way, with the food cooked consistently throughout the process. Located on prime tourist and cruise ship real estate along Auckland’s burgeoning waterfront dining offerings, The Māori Kitchen so far is attracting crowds of mostly locals, who are lining up faithfully for their true Māori kai. “Most of our market is a cross section of Kiwis, from lawyers and office workers, guys from construction sites, to families coming from Whangarei and Hamilton just for a feed on the weekends,“ Rewi says. “Previously there’s been nothing like this. We haven’t even tapped into the cruise ship industry. Next summer we will, we’ve come in at the back end of the season but the main thing is it’s the locals who will get us through the winter.” So why has it taken so long for New Zealand’s indigenous cuisine to make it mainstream? “We’re the only ones doing it like this and on a daily basis. We’ve made a point to do it properly and not cut corners so we can truly say ‘This is authentic’. It’s exciting and everyone’s saying, ‘Why hasn’t this happened before?’ The reason is, it’s a lot of hard work. “Authentic Hāngi was a dying art. People have been using steamers and multi-kai cookers these days and selling it as Hāngi but they shouldn’t call it Hāngi food. That’s why doing The


PIT STOP - MAORI STYLE Māori Kitchen authentically has been challenging, and carrying out all the groundwork like Health and Safety requirements. I’ve spent a lot of time pulling this together and a lot of people have previously failed, trying to make it work.” Any successful venture relies on bringing the right people together and those right people are Rewi and Ganesh. And what a collaboration – in a short space of time these hospo/ cultural entrepreneurs have tapped into something very special. The early global recognition is fantastic too, says Rewi. “Making #4 on the Time Out London list of the world’s coolest food openings in 2019 is huge and we’re the first New Zealand restaurant to make that list.” The rise of the Hāngi Master Inspired to bring traditional Hāngi back to mainstream Aotearoa a couple of years ago, Rewi created his first culinary-cultural brand, the Hāngi Master. “When Manuhiri (visitors) come to New Zealand the biggest thing missing is Māori kai. Not only for our Manuhiri, our own people of Aotearoa were slowly losing their connection with the art of real Hāngi. “There’s a lot of top Kiwi chefs too that have been cooking all round the world and coming back home, they scratch their heads and say, ‘Every dish I cook here is an international dish. What have we got that’s unique to New Zealand?’” Hāngi Master basically started with a food trailer and gained a following through events, concerts and catering work. Without a permanent base though Rewi was often on the move and that was tricky for his hungry fan base. People often paid to go to concerts just to have one of his meals. He also presented Hāngi Masters in a series on Māori Television, which took his cultural brand nationwide. Last year it was time to plan a permanent base. “Ganesh and I have both done Hāngi plus lots of other stuff so it made sense to bring something together like this. Ganesh is marketing and business manager and I’m on operations. As well as our Queens Wharf base, The Māori Kitchen supplies our Hāngi cooked Pork Belly to The Grounds in Waitakere, Ben Bayly’s new restaurant plus other dishes to other restaurants as well.

“We’ve made

or k.

a point to do it properly and not cut corners so we can truly say ‘This is authentic’”

Aut hent ic H

The Māori Kitchen Kaupapa: holding fast to ancient cooking traditions and making authentic Māori food accessible to everyone.

“It feels like things are going 100 miles an hour so we’re focused on keeping it steady – we want to do this properly. This will become our model, the Hāngi Pit and the Hāngi Kitchen and we plan to build two a year. We’ll be in Paihia this summer, Wanaka/Queenstown next year and eventually establish more around the country.” When the ‘franchise’ word is mooted, Rewi is quick to reply, “We won’t franchise in the usual sense, we’re not like Jesters Pies. Anyone who gets involved needs to go through the whole learning process from the pit up and live and breathe the kaupapa.” Ventures similar to The Māori Kitchen often gain financial support from ATEED, the council’s

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Auckland Tourism Events and Economic Development hub or the council’s investment arm, Panuku Developments. But not The Māori Kitchen. “ATEED has been supportive in other ways but we secured a lease like anyone else. We don’t want handouts, we didn’t pull the Iwi card. We’re simply an innovative, unique hospo business serving New Zealand’s traditional dish.” There is a lot of hype around being ideally situated for America’s Cup 2021. “We don’t really care about events,” says Hāngi Master. “The Māori Kitchen is something that just needs to be here. Events come and go – people stay. If you can sustain yourself with a business model especially in food where you don’t rely on events, then you’re going to be around forever.” n

REWI SPRAGGON - HANGI MASTER As well as his passion to revive traditional Māori customs, to date this multi-tasking Māori-preneur has worked all over the world as a chef, managed logistics for super yachts, presented on Māori Television including his own show The Hāngi Pit Master and also works as a Maori cultural consultant. ON THE MENU: Hāngi Tuturu (The Works) Pork, Chicken, Potato, Kumara, Pumpkin, Cabbage, Stuffing and Watercress Salad; Hāngi Pork Belly, Pumpkin/ Kumara & Cabbage Pattie, Watercress & Rocket Salad, Hāngi Master Secret Sauce plus Preserved Foods. There’s Hāngi fusion too with the Pork Belly Sandwich, Hāngi Pies and Hāngi Breakfast Wraps. Everything on the menu is offered for breakfasts, lunches, dinners, functions and private events. HOSPITALITY BUSINESS - MAY 2019 27


Lovelling it - journo-turnedchef David Lovell & his organic chicken burgers.

Love Chicken Not War

A

Darren Lovell just ‘loves’ chicken By Sue Fea

s a high-profile Queenstown chef with a popular seafood restaurant, Darren Lovell is renowned nationally for his passion for the planet and support for sustainable fishing. Now, after almost 12 years at the helm as coowner of Fishbone Bar and Grill – a Queenstown institution for more than 25 years – Darren has spread his wings, launching what’s believed to be the country’s first organic, free range fast-food restaurant. ‘Love Chicken’, which opened in early March, near Frankton, offers delicious organic, freeranged chicken, brined for 12 hours then either fried Southern style or rotisserie roasted.

28 MAY 2019 - HOSPITALITY BUSINESS

Customers can’t get enough of it, whether that be in a bun, burger or a bowl, with healthy salads, Makikihi Fries made in a factory in the middle of an organic potato farm near Timaru, Southland spuds, or potato salad, and greens. Takeaways come served in recyclable Ecoware containers and kids, previously denied the fast-food fix, are being brought in for ‘takeaways’ by increasing numbers of health and sustainability conscious mums. Darren’s even serving up Obb organic ice cream, organic milk-shakes, local organic Mount Edward wine on tap and B. Effect Wanaka beer, as well as Karma sugar-free cola. “Why would you sell Coke


FREE RANGED FAST FOOD when we have an amazing New Zealand product like that?” he asks. Produce is sourced as locally as possible – mostly South Island wide – to reduce carbon emissions. The idea for Love Chicken was born when Darren offered his Fishbone head chef a ride home as he noticed him walking home on a rainy winter’s day in 2017. “I haven’t eaten from a fast food restaurant since the early noughties when I read the book, ‘Fast Food Nation’,” he says. “I’d enforced a blanket ban for our employees at Fishbone as well.” “My chef got in the car and apologised to me because he was eating deep fried chicken,” says Darren. “He had to apologise, and I thought why did he need to be apologising when it should be the companies apologising for offering a sub par product. That’s when the idea came to him. “I thought ‘why doesn’t someone create a fast-food concept that uses all-New Zealand produce, organic where possible, and supports New Zealand growers and soft-drink makers and the likes?’” In just over 18 months the 20-seater Love Chicken, with its few extra tables, was launched, with the slogan, ‘Love Chicken Not War’ spread across the walls amid a giant 1970’s black and white photographic mural of a 1970’s student protest. Even the tables are made from reclaimed rimu. Darren and his partner Kareem Harvey are not only about saving the planet but creating healthier solutions. Serving organic may be expensive, but he’s hoping his tasty organic fried chicken takes off nationally. His aim is not so much to become ‘The Colonel’, but to offer a product that’s finger licking ‘good for you’. “Our goal would be to have everything we serve organic and my vision is for a chain of Love Chickens,” he says. “It’s hard work creating organic chicken – we’ve been to the Bostock’s Farm in Hawkes Bay. But if we can grow this into a chain then hopefully that’ll make it more profitable for producers to grow chicken and potatoes organically.” You won’t find any threatened fish species on the menu at Fishbone either. That’s been the case even before Darren and his business partner Mark Godden, now an absentee coowner in the business, took over from Fishbone founders Michael Hill and Paul Stevenson. Fishbone has always used fish caught under the Quota Management System. It’s not perfect, but New Zealand’s

system is regarded as the best in the world and it’s copied by other countries, says Darren. “When I first took over Fishbone we couldn’t sell orange roughy as the stocks were depleted, but New Zealand’s done a great job of bringing that species back.” Darren’s happy to see people starting to buy some of the lesser-known species now and not just using blue cod and snapper. Fishbone’s huge kitchen garden in Darren’s backyard, with its 10 free range chickens roaming, has been in recess while he launched Love Chicken, but it’ll crank into gear again this year so that both restaurants can benefit from the organic produce. He confesses that he’s always been a “bit of a greenie” ever since a primary school teacher gave him a project called ‘Earth Spaceship’ back in the 70’s. “I used to join in environmental protests when I was at university.” However, he hasn’t always been a chef. Darren made the transition into the kitchen at 36 from a high-profile international career in journalism. “I’d always loved cooking and wanted to be a chef or a journalist, but in those days a chef was someone who cooked down at the local golf club.” So his parents sent him to university to become a journalist and he worked at the Brisbane Sunday Mail where he got his first taste of Queenstown during an Air New Zealand junket to learn to ski in 1996. That career took him to Los Angeles where he headed up New Idea and TV Week’s office. In the early 2000’s Darren spent four years based in Sydney in the glamorous role of entertainment editor at Who Weekly before his heart tugged him back to Queenstown and his love for food. He left his fat salary to start out washing dishes for Vicki and David Onions at what was then, ‘The 19th’. Within a year he had three cooking jobs, trying to earn enough money to buy a block of land for a house. “I was head chef at Fishbone, working mornings at Queenstown House Bed and Breakfast and one morning a week prepping for The 19th,” he recalls. He even volunteered to

come in for two hours, unpaid, every morning to make soup for the boss. “I loved it. I researched different flavours and techniques. That was a huge learning curve for me. I earned more than they could’ve paid me,” he says. There were some disasters and some winners in amongst the chicken and corn chowder, celery soup and borscht (Ukrainian-style cold beetroot soup). Darren loved the hard work and kitchen heat. He was in his happy place, having too much fun to be stressed. “Stress for me is any empty Word document, but cooking and running a kitchen is creating order out of chaos.” Kitchen life fascinated him. It still does 15 years later. “I learned a work ethic, as well as the finer details of how to chop an onion, and I learned how to do stuff without seeking gratification or reward,” he says. “Queenstown still blows my mind every day. It’s such a beautiful place that I fell in love with it instantly.” With such a positive reaction to Love Chicken already, Darren’s “really stoked and proud”. “It’s so great seeing mums bringing kids in here for their first ever fried chicken,” he says. “People know that we’re going to the effort to source “Darren left really good his fat salary to ingredients and start out washing create a simple, unpretentious dishes for Vicki & product." n David Onions and

within a year had three cooking jobs!”

Organic, free range fast food - chicken burgers.

HOSPITALITY BUSINESS - MAY 2019 29


BURGER TRENDS Vegetarian burger at Solotel's The Marlborough, Newtown

Exec chefs reveal key trends

G

roup executive chefs from Merivale, Solotel, Mantle Hospitality Group, Australian Venue Co, Parlour Group and W Short have revealed to Australian Hotelier the key food and beverage trends they’re seeing right now in their venues. Leading the way is the rise of vegetarianism and veganism, particularly in Sydney’s Inner West. Jordan Toft, Executive Chef of Coogee Pavilion, The Newport and The Collaroy, says: “People want choice but too much choice confuses the guest. The right amount of choice. “Whether it be fine dining or casual the guest wants friendly and knowledgeable staff. “Options, both healthy and cheat day food. Salad and fries is a thing!” Solotel’s Group Executive Chef Sebastian Lutaud has also called the rise of veganism. “That vegan piece is going to grow in Australia,” says Lutaud. It’s being driven by “cost and ethics, 100%. We’re really seeing it massively in the Inner West [Sydney].” Solotel’s The Marlborough Hotel has launched 30 MAY 2019 - HOSPITALITY BUSINESS

a new menu, half is plant-based, with 10 vegan dishes plus weekly Chef’s Specials, which include a vegetarian and vegan option. Australian Venue Co’s executive chef Telina Menzies says “Plant-based is definitely everywhere – people are definitely on that movement. Vegetarianism has been around forever, but people are definitely moving towards plant-based diets for health reasons. People just don’t want a deep-fried mushroom in a burger anymore, you’ve got to up your game. “There’s a lot of peabased protein, soy burger mix and the impossible burger boomed. People are becoming more adventurous and they’re looking at menus before they go out and choose where they’re going to eat. You need to have a decent amount to offer, because [demand] is there and you’ve got to get on board with it.” Abbotsford’s Carringbush Hotel launched in March with an exclusively

vegan and vegetarian menu. Co-founder Liam Matthews and his team also offer all wine on tap, packaging-free beer, ecofriendly reusable metal straws and ethical plates along with environmentallyfriendly lighting and heating. Other trends identified by Parlour Group Executive Chef Regan Porteous are: keeping things simple; reducing weekly work hours for full-time staff; and chefs using phones in kitchens. Carl Mower, GM at Toormina Hotel emphasises the rise of the share platter. “People like to be able to dine and enjoy each other’s company, whilst enjoying the grazing experience” he says. “We have seen an increase in the number of people wishing to dine on Texas-style BBQ food, such as brisket and short ribs.” Mower also says, “people are always after healthy options, so it’s important that salads are never boring and are creative.” n

“Leading the way is the rise of vegetarianism and veganism, particularly in Sydney’s Inner West.”

Source: Australian Hotelier April 2019


BURGER DATA

August equals Welly Burgers Galore! Visa Wellington On A Plate 10th Anniversay

This year the organisers of Visa/Wellington On A Plate have stretched out the festival’s menu to the entire month of August – up from 17 to 31 days – to celebrate its 10th anniversary! Burger lovers will be in seventh heaven as the Burger Wellington component covers the second two weeks of the month and it is predicted will be even larger than 2018’s 235 participating aficionados! And Dine Wellington and Beervana once again feature on the itinerary, with Dine featuring in the first two weeks and Burger in the last two. Visa Wellington On A Plate is run by a not for profit trust with the main aim of supporting the Wellington hospitality industry to flourish. A number of collaborations with internationally renowned chefs are planned as the event breathes fresh life into New Zealand’s largest culinary festival for the month of August. For more information go to www.VisaWOAP.com.

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HOSPITALITY BUSINESS - MAY 2019 31


FOOD OF THE MONTH

Bone Broth Makes a Comeback

I

t seems Grandma definitely did know best when it came to good nutritious cooking. Her old school-style, homemade, slowcooked bone broths have made a massive comeback, bringing with them a fresh burst of flavour, health and vigour. As the planet and the well-being of its occupants is continually challenged, society is reverting back to the health benefits of days gone by, opting for more wholesome, preservative, additive-free and sustainable foods. With this has come the resurgence in bone broths to soothe and heal the lining of the modern-day gut – an integral part of health and well-being. For 38-year-old Alex Watson, of Christchurch, what started as a healthy little broth cook-up for his family and friends has burgeoned into a booming bone broth business in just 12 months. In that time the business has grown from selling about 45 jars at the Riccarton Farmer’s Market each Saturday – selling out every week

– to a goal of producing about 5000 jars a week later this year. “It’s just exploded,” says Alex, who’s already been approached for his first export orders. “We have guys in China wanting to buy it off us exclusively.” There’s a huge demand for grass-fed New Zealand beef especially, he says. “It has such a ring to it in the Asian markets. We’ll be selling our broth in 12-metre shipping containers and exporting it pretty soon if this keeps up.” The Little Broth Company serves up beef, chicken and vegetable broth, with increasing demand for a plant-based vegan option. “We use the same vegetables as for the meat broths, but slow roast the vegetables to bring out the flavour and colour, adding apple cider vinegar, salt and pepper and bay leaves,” says Alex. The meat broths are left to simmer in the slow cooker for three days, with the vegetable broth taking one day. “We’ve had everything lab tested to check its nutrient value.” The gelatin makes it not only great for gut health,

which is an increasing concern for people, but it’s full of collagen which Alex says is great for the skin, teeth and joints. “I’ve always loved to cook as a hobby and I’d been making bone broth at home, saving the bones from a roast chicken to make a stock for a risotto or curry,” says Alex. About five years ago a nutritionist friend from Australia suggested he try making bone broth. “I loved it and I’d take my cup of bone broth to work to have at 10am every day. People thought I was nuts and asked, ‘What is that stuff?’,” he says. Last winter what was named ‘The ‘Little’ Bone Broth Company’ had become too ‘big’ for Alex to manage after hours. Eventually he convinced his concerned wife, nurse Catherine Watson, that he should quit his corporate job in hospitality recruitment at The Recruitment Network and take up cooking. It was a wise move. He’s now not only supplying local butchers and the likes of Farro Fresh in Auckland, but Foodstuffs South

5–6 October 2019

THE CHOCOLATE AND COFFEE SHOW

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chef Matthew Davies says really brings out the chicken flavour beautifully. “You can just add the broth into your cooking to get better flavour and receive the same benefits, but you avoid the sodium levels,” says Alex. “We use good Himalayan pink salt which is high in iron.” The glass jars Alex uses are eco-friendly and the broth has already also been broken down into easy powder form with testing showing it retains 99 percent of its nutritional value. While the growth has been wonderful, it’s also been a huge challenge expanding the business so rapidly. “We’re starting to see the top of the mountain though.” With the colder winter temperatures now approaching he’s already seeing a massive spike in demand. n

T

Island now stocks his broth in almost all of its New World, Pak ‘n’ Save and Four Square supermarkets. It’s about to launch the product into the North Island. “We absolutely crank out of New World,” he says. Even Alex and Catherine’s two terrier dogs love it. “They have their biscuits soaked in broth every night,” says Alex. He also gives jars of his broth to friends with children. “We were making it at home for the first month early last year,” says Alex. “We outgrew that and moved into a friend’s commercial restaurant kitchen, but had also outgrown that by August when we bought our own commercial kitchen,” he says. In that short year Alex has also scored a couple of big Christchurch restaurant clients. The George Hotel executive chef Ant Page says he’s in the process of trialling and experimenting with the product and it may appear on a future menu. “There’s a lot we could do with it and I definitely like the idea of the product and support Alex with what he does,” says Ant, who oversees both Pescatore fine dining seafood restaurant and 50 Bistro. Christchurch restaurant Rogues of Rotherham chefs have just started using Alex’s broth in the restaurant’s main free range chicken dish, cooking the pearl barley in broth, which sous

p : A good brew on Sou the s ’ a di wa Na y

FOOD OF THE MONTH

ttle Bone Broth Co e Li mp Th an m y fro

Company is on F Broth ace one B e bo l t it ok L . he

2019 Get ready: nominations open on Wednesday 15 May

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awards@hospitality.org.nz

awards.hospitality.org.nz


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Tech Talk

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ei GT Watch

Pat Pilcher’s round up of all the tech worth knowing about, for work, rest and play.

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As competition heats up in the fibre broadband market, 2Degrees has fired off a competitive salvo by bundling Amazon Video Prime along with their unlimited broadband plans. Amazon Prime Video is a Netflix like service that includes shows such as Jeremy Clarkson’s Grand Tour.

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GAMING TODAY AGE 2019

Cornerstone Show Celebrates 30 Years The countdown is underway to the 30th Australasian Gaming Expo!

I

n just over three months, the industry will once again converge on the International Convention Centre (ICC) Sydney for the Australasian Gaming Expo (AGE). To be held 13-15 August, it is the ‘must attend’ event for all buyers and suppliers working within hotels, clubs, and casinos. Now in its 30th year, the Australasian Gaming Expo is one of the world’s largest hospitality and gaming tradeshows and the most significant event of its type in Australia. Over three days, the world’s best gaming and hospitality equipment and services are on show for industry executives from around the region. 2019 is set to be an exciting event, with a particular focus on education and development, and an opportunity to celebrate this 30th milestone. Importantly, the Australasian Gaming Expo is a cornerstone event in the gaming and hospitality industry calendar where our community comes together for three days jam-packed with events, seminars, networking, and sales. Industry leaders from all corners of the globe gather to reveal innovative new products and services and gain key industry

insights. From gaming equipment to the latest support technology, design and fit out to paging and communication, the Australasian Gaming Expo is the place where all of the industry comes together to share and learn from each other. It’s no wonder some of our visitors and exhibitors have been coming back for 30 years! In just one lap of the show floor, you’ll discover: • Equipment, technology and associated goods for clubs, casinos and hotels • Suppliers to the hospitality industry for gaming and associated equipment and services (such as on-premise outfitters, apparel and technology, etc) • Architects, construction companies, carpet companies and other refurbishment suppliers • Casino, club and hotel executives, staff and support • Industry regulators • Industry educators and trainers • Business consultants, lawyers and researchers • Trade media You’ll be sure to connect with people who can help your business soar.

The Australasian Gaming Expo has secured its place as one of the leading international events for the gaming and hospitality industry. An overwhelming 95% of the visitors rated AGE exhibitors good or excellent. Results show that the Australasian Gaming Expo is not only a leading gaming expo, but it is also performing in the top 15% of trade shows globally. AGE 2019 is the place for business - don’t miss out with visitor registration is available at www.austgamingexpo.com or call the Gaming Expo Help line on 61 2 9211 7430. n

“Industry leaders from all corners of the globe gather to reveal innovative new products and services and gain key industry insights”

HOSPITALITY BUSINESS - MAY 2019 35



www.theshout.co.nz May 2019

JOIN US FOR NEGRONI WEEK 24-30 JUNE 2019

PLUS FINE WINE • BITTERS AND TINCTURES • MEAD


OUR FAVOURITE BEERS ARE NOW IN 330ML CANS!

www.behemothbrewing.co.nz ORDER FROM: orders@behemothbrewing.co.nz


The Shout Editor Charlotte Cowan

Tantalise those taste buds This month in The Shout we’re going a little niche, a little outside the box, if you will. While we do love a spritzy Sauv and a classic G&T, there’s always time to try something new and there’s so much on offer in this month’s issue. Just when you thought you’d tried all the gins and vodkas around, Whangamata’s Sam Brown is here to blow your mind. The 34-year-old has recently launched The White Sheep Co., a range of spirits made from sheep milk. Yes, you read that right. For more on Sam and his sheepy creations, head to pg 9. And while we all know that bitters, specifically Angostura Bitters, is a behindthe-bar staple, what exactly is the place of bitters and tinctures in today’s cocktail lists? Can we broaden out to something new? Tash McGill talks to Ben Leggett of Elemental Distillers on pgs 10-11 to find out. And finally, our beer writer John Oszajca shares some background on one of the oldest drinks known to man – mead, aka honey wine. Sound like something you’d add to your beer fridge? Or is that wine fridge? Find out more on pgs 16-17. So if this issue doesn’t encourage you to broaden your palate and taste something different, we don’t know what will! Have a great May, Shout readers!

Contents 04 G etting into the spirit of things

10 Until the bitter end

Spirits writer Tash McGill discusses the resurgence of bitters and tinctures behind the bar

Results from the 2019 New Zealand Spirits Awards

05 Industry insights

12 D iscovering fine wine

Tasting notes from Cameron Douglas MS

09 B aa, baa, gin sheep

16 H oney, I’m home

Q&A with The White Sheep Co.’s Sam Brown

Beer expert John Oszajca gives us the lowdown on mead

THE COVER: CAMPARI - NEGRONI WEEK 2019

In 2019, Campari, the iconic Italian aperitif, is celebrating a momentous occasion for one of the world’s most iconic cocktails, the Negroni. This June, Campari NZ and EuroVintage invite you to be part of Negroni Week 2019 - a global fundraiser that champions this revered cocktail and raises money for charity with every drink sold. For more information, head to pgs 6-7.

Editor’s picks

www.theshout.co.nz May 2019

JOIN US FOR NEGRONI WEEK 24-30 JUNE 2019

PLUS FINE WINE • BITTERS AND TINCTURES • MEAD

PYRAMID VALLEY LION'S TOOTH CHARDONNAY 2016

From Pyramid Valley’s Lion’s Tooth vineyard, this Chardonnay is one of Cameron Douglas MS’ picks for a fantastic fine wine of New Zealand. And it’s just one example from Pyramid Valley’s superb collection. For more, take a look at Cameron’s tasting notes on pgs 12-15.

THE WHITE SHEEP CO. SHEEP MILK VODKA

Published By The Intermedia Group Ltd 505 Rosebank Road, Avondale Auckland, 1026, New Zealand Managing Director-Publisher Dale Spencer dspencer@intermedianz.co.nz Editor Charlotte Cowan ccowan@intermedianz.co.nz ph 021 774 080 Sales Director Jacqueline Freeman ph 021 286 7600 jfreeman@intermedianz.co.nz

You may think you have tried everything when it comes to spirits but Whangamata’s Sam Brown has come up with something truly original. This vodka really is made from sheep milk and it scored a trophy at the recent New Zealand Spirits Awards. For more on this unique spirits range, head to pg 9 and for more NZ Spirits Awards winners, visit pg 4.

ELEMENTAL BITTERS BLACKBERRY & BALSAMIC

This bitters is a perfect marriage of house dried Karaka blackberries, tart pomegranate balsamic vinegar and aromatic pink peppercorns and is one of the Elemental collection which is the first and only range of commercial bitters being made in New Zealand. For more on bitters behind the bar, check out pgs 10-11.

TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | May 2019 | 3


AWARDS NEWS

Getting into the spirit of things The winners of the inaugural New Zealand Spirits Awards have been announced, and here they are… The winners of the inaugural New Zealand Spirits Awards have been announced, with Kiwi distilleries taking home 14 Gold Medals and seven trophies. Seventeen local and overseas judges – including The Shout’s Tash McGill – blind-tasted more than 250 spirits over two days in March and the overall winners were revealed at a gala dinner at Wellington’s Embassy Theatre on May 10. “The NZ Spirits Awards have exceeded our expectations,” says Spirits New Zealand Chief Executive, Robert Brewer. “We would have been very happy to get 100

entries, but 254 entries is truly amazing in its inaugural year. It is also a really solid indication of the growing strength of the New Zealand spirits industry, since almost half of these entries were New Zealand distilleries and products,” he says. Local Gold Medalists include Juno, Denzien, Thomson and Liquid Alchemy. For a full list of medal winners, visit www.spiritsawardsnz.nz.

THE TROPHY WINNERS Best New Zealand in Category Botanical & Other Spirits Elemental Grapefruit & Hops Bitters Best Overall in Category - Botanical & Other Spirits Dolin Vermouth Rogue Best Overall in Category – Brandies Remy Martin XO New Zealand in Category – Gin Denzien Te Aro Dry Best Overall in Category – Gin Denzien Te Aro Dry Best New Zealand in Category – Liqueurs Lewis Road Creamery Chocolate Cream Liqueur

Thomson Whisky Two Tone won the NZ whisky category

Judges Keith Tibble and Tash McGill

Denzien Te Aro Dry Gin took home two trophies

Best Overall in Category – Liqueurs Lewis Road Creamery Chocolate Cream Liqueur Best Overall in Category – Rum Pusser’s Rum Best New Zealand in Category – Vodka The White Sheep Co. Sheep Milk Vodka Best Overall in Category – Vodka Grey Goose Best New Zealand in Category – Whiskey Thomson Whisky Two Tone Best Overall in Category – Whiskey Talisker 10 YO

Seventeen local and international judges blind-tasted each spirit

In the next issue of

ON TREND Share your favourite product or exciting new launch with our readers! FOR BOOKINGS, CONTACT The Shout NZ Sales Director

Jacqueline Freeman jfreeman@intermedianz.co.nz 021 286 7600

New Zealand Innovation Award TeKiwi 100% Blue Agave Spirit


INDUSTRY INSIGHTS

Tourism as a driver of growth It has been well known for the last 10 years that New Zealand has a solid tourism industry, people love to come here, look at the sights and spend their hard-earned foreign currency. But what we as a brewing industry have not always been so good at was placing a value on those tourists. The recent NZIER report 'Brewing in New Zealand', commissioned by the Brewers Association, touched on the international visitor spend on beer. The majority of New Zealand beer exports are sales to tourists. These should be considered exports but don’t show up as official export statistics. Seventeen percent of food and beverage sales are to international tourists, which would translate to $242 million in beer sales if tourists spent the same share on beer as Kiwis. So what does this mean? That means about 10% of beer in New Zealand is sold to international

visitors. A substantial chunk, if you think about it. While no doubt more and more visitors are coming here for specific beer experiences, such as festivals, and our cousins across the ditch who can pop over for a food and beer weekend easily. Currently we don’t market ourselves as beer destination very well. Unlike the wine sector who have built a substantial brand on the back of the location and experiences on offer here in New Zealand. While we are heading into the quiet winter months for tourism, things will ramp up again next summer where no doubt our international visitor numbers will continue to grow. On the back of this, the industry needs better understand the value of these visitors and work together to better market ourselves as a beer destination. Because we certainly have a lot to offer.

DYLAN FIRTH Executive Director, Brewers Association of New Zealand

Christchurch hosts Pinot Noir NZ for first time in its 20-year history

AMBER SILVESTER New Zealand Winegrowers Communications Manager

A 115-strong collective of New Zealand Pinot Noir producers are bringing their international celebration to Christchurch for the first time in 2021, shining the global spotlight on one of New Zealand’s most exciting wines. Pinot Noir NZ’s spectacular three-day celebration is held every four years and is widely considered to be one of the best Pinot Noir events on the planet. Pinot 2021 will be held from Tuesday 23rd – Thursday 25th February. The last event was held in 2017, a sell-out event on Wellington’s waterfront with 117 wineries bringing over 600 wines to 500 international industry influencers. International wine luminaries like Jancis Robinson, Andrea Frost and Elaine Chukan Brown attended, with Andrea Frost describing New Zealand as “one of the most dynamic and exciting Pinot Noir regions on earth”. Pinot Noir 2021 builds on this legacy, aiming to see New Zealand Pinot makers recognised as international thought leaders, and spark increased demand for New Zealand wine. The celebration attracts some of the greatest international minds on the subject of Pinot Noir – from visionaries and industry leaders, through to enthusiasts – and 2021 promises to deliver another aspirational and thoughtprovoking programme. A new brand has also been introduced for Pinot Noir 2021, giving it a fresh look and feel.

FOR MORE INDUSTRY NEWS FOLLOW US ON

Adding to the anticipation, for the first time in its 20-year history the event will be hosted in Christchurch. The committee are planning a celebration of Pinot Noir in venues across the central city, with events for Cantabrians and visitors, as well as a memorable programme for guests from around the world. The prestigious event will be co-chaired by Helen Masters, head winemaker at Ata Rangi, and Penelope Naish, co-owner of Black Estate. “Christchurch really stood out for its energy and collaborative approach,” says Masters. “It’s a fascinating city, the speed with which it’s evolving makes it an extraordinary destination for our guests to explore.” It will be a celebration you won’t want to miss!

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THESHOUT.CO.NZ

TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | May 2019 | 5


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n 2019, Campari, the iconic Italian aperitif, is celebrating a momentous occasion for one of the world’s most iconic cocktails, the Negroni. Created at Caffé Casoni in Florence, Italy, in 1919, 100 years have passed since the creation of the truly classic drink, which has been voted as the second most popular cocktail in the world. One of the few staples to any good cocktail menu, the Negroni is listed in the IBA ‘Unforgettable Drinks List’, well known as the Bartender’s Bible, in which Campari is the only brand listed as an official ingredient. Revered for its perfectly balanced combination of three ingredients; equal parts of Sweet Red Vermouth and London Dry Gin and Campari – the red heart of the Negroni.

THE FIRST NEGRONI, CAFFE CASONI 1919 The Negroni was invented as a variation of the Americano cocktail, with soda swapped for gin to give the cocktail a bolder appeal. We owe its creation and name to the man who first requested the drink in 1919: Count Camillo Negroni. A Florentine nobleman, Count Negroni was seen as a trendsetter and a man of creativity, culture and class – values still embodied by the Negroni and Campari today.

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ADVERTORIAL

NEGRONI WEEK JUNE 24-30, 2019

THE NEGRONI • 1 part (30ml) Campari • 1 part (30ml) Gin (Campari recommends BULLDOG Gin) • 1 part (30ml) Sweet Red Vermouth (Campari recommends Cinzano 1757) • 1 slice of orange

TO SERVE:

• Pour all ingredients directly into a rock glass filled with ice • Stir well to chill and bring ingredients together • Garnish with a slice of orange

Campari New Zealand and EuroVintage invite you to be part of Negroni Week 2019. Negroni Week is a global fundraiser that champions the cocktail and raises money for charity with every drink sold. How can you get involved? • Register for Negroni Week through your EuroVintage representative, or Campari NZ (annabel.buckley@campari.com) before June 14, 2019. • Place the minimum order requirement through EuroVintage to be eligible for Campari NZ to cover your entry fee (US$25). Limited numbers of Negroni Week Support Kits are also available for participating venues, valued at $275. • Campari NZ will use information from NegroniWeek.com & social media sharing to promote Negroni Week bars throughout New Zealand at their discretion. • The venue that raises the most for charity will have their donation matched by Campari NZ (up to $1000) Venue commitment: • Bring Negroni Week to life in your venue June 24 – 30, 2019. • Donate at least $1 from every Negroni sold to a charity of your choice. • Report your sales and funds raised to your profile, and donate your funds to your selected charity. Ambassador, and suave special guests, this training will trace the evolution of the revered Negroni over the past 100 years and look to the future of the cocktail over the next century.

JOIN THE CAMPARI ACADEMY

Launched this year and managed by the New Zealand and Australian Campari Group Brand Ambassador team, the CAMPARI ACADEMY is a new educational platform for bartenders with the objective to provide learning experiences beyond simple branded presentations. To kick this off in New Zealand, we will be launching our first CAMPARI ACADEMY PRESENTS: N100 - ONE HUNDRED YEARS OF NEGRONI. Hosted by David Fletcher, Campari NZ Brand

These will feature in the following locations: • Wellington – 21st May 2019 – Ombra, 199 Cuba Street, Te Aro, Wellington. Aperitivo & Campari Academy from 12.30pm • Christchurch – 28th May 2019 – Botanic: The Glasshouse, Level 1, 126 Oxford Street, Christchurch. Aperitivo & Campari Academy from 12.30pm In Auckland, David Fletcher will also be hosting N100 - ONE HUNDRED YEARS OF NEGRONI in short format, a condensed version of the Christchurch and Wellington events, but tailored to your venue. n Contact david.fletcher@campari.com or your EuroVintage representatives to book in to the above. Please note numbers for all CAMPARI ACADEMY sessions are strictly limited so get in quickly.

TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | May 2019 | 7


Discover Provenance

New Zealand Wine of the Year Awards BEST WINE OF PROVENANCE TROPHY WINNER AUNTSFIELD

Discover New Zealand’s best kept secret

www.auntsfield.co.nz


Q&A

Baa, baa, gin sheep Turning sheep milk into spirits? We’re intrigued…

M

ore than three years ago, Whangamata resident Sam Brown decided to make spirits out of sheep milk. How did that work out? Well, earlier this year, the 34-yearold launched The White Sheep Co. and his Sheep Milk Vodka won a category trophy at the 2019 New Zealand Spirits Awards, so it seems things are moving along quite nicely. We grabbed a chat with Brown to find out more…

Why did you decide to create spirits using sheep milk?

“I was working overseas [in China] at the time and had friends form different parts of the world. One night we were out having a few drinks and decided to have a toast for each of our countries. We had some tequila for Mexico, brandy for France and whiskey for Scotland – then it got to me and I just drew a blank, there isn’t a unique spirit that people instinctively associate with New Zealand the same way that tequila is to Mexico or brandy to France. This was the ‘lightbulb’ moment that got me thinking and eventually led to sheep milk.”

How long did it take to perfect the recipe?

“Once I had the idea in mind, I set about doing a lot of research into what was required to turn sheep milk into alcohol. This meant a lot of late nights reading up on fermentation, distillation and different types of yeast, then doing various calculations and forming hypotheses to test. After that, it was a lot of trial and error and taste-testing to get it right. It’s been a 3+ year process from start to finish and a lot has gone into it.”

Did you have any prior distilling experience?

“Prior to starting this project, I did not have any formal distilling experience other than making a few batches of home brew beer and spirits at home with mates when I was younger. We would name each batch (a vodka named ‘one outs’ is fondly remembered) and still joke about it to this day.”

How does the taste of sheep milk spirits differ from traditionally tasting vodka or gin?

“The long fermentation time (12 days) means a lot of the sheep milk flavour carries over to the finished spirit. We also only perform a single distillation, which is quite different to other vodkas. Multiple distillations essentially strip away the original flavours but we don’t want to do that as we feel it would defeat the purpose of using such a unique and high-quality base ingredient.”

Sheep Milk & Honey Gin

Sam Brown

Sheep Milk Vodka

DID YOU KNOW? Fresh sheep milk has higher levels of vitamins - A, B1, B2, B6, B12, C, E and minerals – Calcium, Magnesium, Phosphorous, Zinc – than cow and goat milk.

Who is your target market and what has been the reception so far?

“Anyone that wants to try something new and unique. Craft spirits have really come into their own over the past few years and it’s great to see people trying new things. The reception so far has been great – even better than expected. Because it’s such a unique product people are keen to know more about how it’s made and the process involved.” n The White Sheep Co. range includes Sheep Milk & Honey Gin, Sheep Milk Cream Liqueur and Sheep Milk Vodka and is available at select liquor stores and bars throughout New Zealand. For more information, visit www.thewhitesheepco.com  TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | May 2019 | 9


Until the

Bitter Spirits writer Tash McGill chats to Kiwi distiller Ben Leggett about the resurgence of bitters and tinctures behind the bar.

end

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alk into even the most basic pub or bar in any small town, anywhere in the world and I’d place money on a bottle of Angostura Bitters being behind the bar. But if you were to walk into a more trend-leading establishment you’d more likely see dozens of bottles, some commercially produced and others made in-house. It’s high season for bitters, tinctures and digestifs as consumers and bartenders alike go in search of complex and inviting flavours.

SPRITZES, DASHES AND DROPS

Tash McGill is a spirits and hospitality writer who regularly hosts tastings and education classes for those wanting to know more about spirits and their uses - from cocktails to culinary food matches. She has been in the spirits and cocktail industry for more than 10 years, writing, tasting and judging competitions.

Let’s begin with the difference between a tincture and bitters, which, to be honest, can be a fine line, depending on which school you come from. The easiest way to think about it is this – a tincture is a concentrated infusion of an ingredient in high-proof alcohol, extracting the aroma and flavour essence of an ingredient. It’s most often used to enhance the aromatic nature of a beverage, which is why tinctures can be made in-house and spritzed onto a cocktail at the end of process. Bitters are more than just an extraction of a single flavour. The original ingredients are blended with bittering agents that provide complexity, and

10 | May 2019 | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | TheShout NZ

taste components that are used as modifiers in the cocktail itself. Think about a good Manhattan, Old Fashioned, Sazerac or even a traditional Champagne cocktail - all rely on solid dashes of bitters to both add layers and bring the various ingredients together. While tinctures are more commonly used for their aromatic qualities, bitters find their origin as far back as the ancient Egyptians. Medicinal herbs, spices and types of barks would be left to steep for long periods of time in strong wine. And it would be remiss to not mention the family of digestive bitters – more commonly known as amaros (Italian) or kaüters (German). These are also used in cocktails as modifiers or served neat, maybe over ice, at the end of a meal. While still comprised largely of botanicals and herbs and therefore on the drier side, there is a higher sugar content in these liquors, which makes them generally more palatable to drink alone. These digestives can make perfect bookends to a meal; starting with an Aperol Spritz aperitif and finishing with a smooth and herbaceous Amaro Montenegro at the end of a meal.

SMALL BOTTLES OF HISTORY BEING MADE IN MARLBOROUGH

For the explosion of New Zealand made spirits and our ongoing fondness for craft beer and wine, it should


SPIRIT ON SHOW

Elemental Distillers cofounders Simon Kelly and Ben Leggett

Elemental Bitters is the first and only range of commercial bitters being made in New Zealand

Regency Bitters were a one-off batch trial created with a budget of only £2k

come as no surprise that a New Zealand bitters distillery has started to make a small but lovely footprint in the industry. And while many of the recently opened distilleries have leapt straight to making gin while developing their labour of love projects, for Ben Leggett and Simon Kelly it was the other way around. Their passion is for the newly licensed distilling of Roots Dry Marlborough Gin, but they started Elemental Distillers making the first and only range of commercial bitters being made in New Zealand and focused on New Zealand botanicals. Co-founder Ben Leggett spent 14 years working in the UK and EU spirits industries, working the spectrum of bartender, manager, brand ambassador and drinks writer before making plans to return home to New Zealand. A self-confessed born-and-raised Marlborough lad who has returned to his roots, Leggett says the lessons from the UK were vital in getting Elemental Bitters up and running. “As a starting point, I launched a range of cocktail bitters in the UK as a trial ahead of the move,” he says. “These were called Regency Bitters and were a one-off batch trial created with a budget of only £2k to produce, promote and distribute. There isn’t a cocktail bar in the world that doesn’t have a small collection of mini bottles, bitters and elixirs often taking pride of place in central backbar.” Amongst the vast array of bitters on the international market, of which only a fraction are available here in Australasia, the Elemental Bitters range is interesting and unique. With a small market to both educate and saturate, it might seem like an unusual choice. “Ultimately, launching a bitters range in New Zealand with limited consumer comprehension of the category was always going to be a challenge but I wanted both the packaging and flavours to sound appealing and tri-polar from one another,” says Leggett. “Each bitters flavour is designed to enhance one of three different style of cocktail.” • Grapefruit & Hops Bitters - The flavour note is Citrus Refresher and is designed to work with white spirits and anything with a citrus base – think Margarita, Sidecar, Sling • Coffee & Pimento Bitters – Think of the influence of a Mature Digestif and use with dark spirits with oak influence for Manhattans, Old Fashioneds or Sazeracs • Blackberry & Balsamic Bitters – Here the flavours of Rich Berry enhance dark fruit and spicy spirit mixtures like in a Cobbler or classic Blood & Sand

WHY NOW?

“There is a belated but emerging craft cocktail scene hitting New Zealand with bitters and other products like sweet vermouth, gin and mezcal, building momentum with the new consumers.” Angostura Bitters is a bar essential

As with so many industry trends, international resurgence has an influence on the New Zealand market. Such is the resurgence and popularity of digestive bitter liqueurs that renowned bartender and beverage director Sother Teague opened a bitters tasting room called Amor Y Amargo in New York City. Celebrating an extensive menu of bitters and bitters-centric cocktails, the East Village bar was given an 87/100 rating by New York Magazine. It translates to Love & Bitters, which is clearly right on trend. As Leggett agrees: “My belief is in the timing of the range. There is a belated but emerging craft cocktail scene hitting New Zealand with bitters and other products like sweet vermouth, gin and mezcal, building momentum with the new consumers. I’m excited for the next five years and where it takes our national spirits industry as a whole,” he says. “Apart from the above, the support in media and cocktail bars nationwide has been exceptional. I have also been hugely impressed with the number of rural customers who read an article on our bitters and contact us for order enquiries is some of the most remote parts of the country.” Capitalising on the education opportunity with consumers directly at the point of sales is where Leggett’s experience as a brand ambassador and consultant kicks into overdrive. “The mini bottles with their wax dipped head with craft labels are a big pull in store, especially at pointof-sale but education is further required for store staff and consumers alike to understand what to do with the bottles once acquired. This is a current focus of ours to further add recipes and information alongside the products at sale.” n  TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | May 2019 | 11


TASTING NOTES

Discovering fine wine BY CAMERON DOUGLAS MS

W

ine tasting is a skill that can be learned and - like portrait painting or playing the violin - the more you practice, the better you will get. Wine tasting does, however, require a rather large number of samples and opportunity to taste and evaluate. Tasting classic wines from wellknown appellations and many local examples, reference points, wine vocabulary and attending professional wine tasting events will help tasters become experienced and discover fine wine. Writing a tasting note for The Shout readers is different from writing a judging note for wine competitions. A tasting note for Shout readers should help them in several ways, including information to describe the wine to customers, helping the seller build upon their own wine vocabulary and create reference points to wine to assist in comparing wine styles and winemaking techniques. All without being too geeky. Tasting wine for judging in a competition takes a more focussed look at a wine’s finer points, balance, lengthy and complexity using experience from tasting classic wines as reference points, but not comparing necessarily to classic wines. Wine points, stickers or stars may or may not help one of your customers in their buying decision. If they do, it’s because the

buyer, wine store, or reader has faith in the rating or writer and may be compelled to buy the wine. Alternatively, wine notes and scores are an excellent way to market and advertise wine, especially when the wine is an excellent example. An excellent example of a particular wine is often referenced across popular press, wine critics, wine competitions or professional judging panels. These wines have specifically been recognised several times and is a great way to make buying decisions and ultimately become a fine wine candidate. Price at time of judging or assessment is irrelevant because the wine has to speak for itself and not because it sits in a specific price category. Some competitions do judge on price points, but most do not. The judging team is important as well and where there is a mix of winemaker, professional critic, wine buyer for specialist stores can be a formidable grouping. Wines reviewed in this month’s issue all have something special about them, but they all display a great balance, length and complexity. One of the easy judging criteria you can adopt today and use with every wine you taste, in addition to the ideas suggested above, is do you find this wine intriguing, beguiling, layered, thought provoking, different and even more exciting with each taste? If so then you may be enjoying a fine wine.

Wines are scored out of 100 points and are listed in no particular order. Numbers are not indicative of a ranking.

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BIO: Cameron Douglas MS is New Zealand’s first and only Master Sommelier. An experienced wine writer, commentator, judge, reviewer, presenter and consultant, he is academically in charge of the Wine and Beverage Programme at AUT University in Auckland and is Patron of the New Zealand Sommeliers and Wine Professionals Association. Douglas consults to a variety of establishments, taking care of their wine lists, wine and food pairings, and staff training matters and he currently serves on the Board of Directors for the Court of Master Sommeliers Americas.


TASTING NOTES SACRED HILL HELMSMAN GIMBLETT GRAVELS 1CABERNET HAWKE’S BAY CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MERLOT, FRANC 2016 Dark purple and ruby core with a ruby pink rim. Complex and beguiling bouquet with aromas of sweet blackberry fruits, olive and baked bellpepper; violets and sweet wood. Calm yet persistent bouquet. Dry, firm and complex on the palate. Very youthful with firm tannins, high acidity and punchy fruit flavours with tobacco, wood and a sweet vegetal note. Very long finish, youthful and cellar time required. Best from 2024 through 2034. Points 97 RRP $84.99 Distributor: Quench Collective Limited Phone: (06) 879 8760 www.sacredhill.com

VALLEY LION'S TOOTH 2 PYRAMID CHARDONNAY 2016

Complex and inviting bouquet with aromas of grapefruit, peach and apricot woven between aromas of vanilla and cashew, a limestone and clay mineral quality. Delicious on the palate with a saline feel, flavours of vanilla and other wood spices, apple and yellow stone fruits. Very fine wood tannins, natural acidity and long finish. Complex and intriguing, alluring and very tasty. drink now and through 2024. Points 96 RRP $125.00 Distributor: Great Little Vineyards Phone: (027) 788 9463 www.pyramidvalley.co.nz

GIMBLETT GRAVELS VALLEY FIELD OF 3 PASK 4 PYRAMID DECLARATION HAWKE’S BAY FIRE CHARDONNAY 2016 MERLOT 2013

A lovely bouquet, complex. Loaded with aromas of plums and spice, gravelly soils and French oak spice. Firm textures on the palate showing off the youth, focus and concentration. Flavours of dark berries and plums, toasty wood spices and steely, youthful and engaging core. Long finish, totally harmonious and exemplary. Drink well now and through 2026+. A real treat. Points 96 RRP $50 Distributor: Hancocks Wine, Spirit and Beer Merchants Phone: (06) 879 7906 www.pask.co.nz

This is a delicious wine. From the initial bouquet of flowers and gun-flint to citrus and heirloom tree-fruit to an alluring complexity on the nose and palate together have a wonderful harmony with each other. A dry wine with a layer of oak spice and lees derived wild spice to tension and poise from the acidity and very fine silky tannins - this is a wine take your time over - slow down, pause, enjoy the weight and subtle power, flavours and finish. Not all Chardonnay are for everyone, this example will most certainly open your eyes and palate to a special place and time. Drink now and through 2024. Points 96 RRP $125.00 Distributor: Great Little Vineyards Phone: (027) 788 9463 www.pyramidvalley.co.nz

5

PEGASUS BAY PRIMA DONNA WAIPARA VALLEY PINOT NOIR 2015

An immediately alluring bouquet of ripe fruit and sweet oak, a core of minerality with crushed rock and limestone, even a little chalky note. Complex, fruity, oaky, gently savoury and dry on the palate. Flavours of dark red berries, sweet vanillin oak a mix of red flowers and earth flavours. Fine velvet textured tannins, supported by acidity a vibrato of textures; quite a lengthy complex finish. Enjoy this wine today and through 2026++. Points 96 RRP $95.00 Distributor: EuroVintage Phone: (03) 314 6869 www.pegasusbay.com

FIVE

FOUR

THREE

TWO

ONE

TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | May 2019 | 13


TASTING NOTES

6

PYRAMID VALLEY ANGEL FLOWER PINOT NOIR 2016

Flowers, brown spices, earth and mineral moments, tea and pressed roses - the very nature of the bouquet is one of complexity and intrigue. On the palate - complex, dry, savoury and earthy. Flavours do reflect the bouquet, texture are something different - more savoury and intense with dried herb and fine tannins, a natural level of acidity and complexity. Long and intriguing finish. Well made, youthful and natural. Drink now and through 2026+ Points 95 RRP $125.00 Distributor: Great Little Vineyards Phone: (027) 788 9463 www.pyramidvalley.co.nz

AUNSTSFIELD SOUTH 9MARLBOROUGH OAKS BARREL FERMENTED SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016

Complex and seductive bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc with aromas of crushed rock and mineral, floral notes and fresh ripe citrus and tree fruit with a slightly softer layer of herbaceousness then barrel ferment notes - spice and nuttiness. The nuttiness and flavour of barrel shows more distinctiveness on the palate with vanilla and oak. Peach and citrus peel notes with some herb and sweet nutty oak to follow. Crisp, dry, weighty and complex with a lengthy finish. Drink now and through 2022. Points 95 RRP $38.95 Distributor: Auntsfield Phone: (03) 578 0622 www.auntsfield.co.nz

7

PEGASUS BAY VIRTUOSO WAIPARA VALLEY CHARDONNAY 2016

SACRED HILL DEERSTALKERS 8HAWKE’S GIMBLETT GRAVELS BAY SYRAH 2016

Bold, complex and alluring bouquet with strong statements of oak, toasty wood spices , cashew and brazil nut, baked yellow stone fruits, burnt butter and heirloom grapefruit. Complex, youthful and rich. On the palate - dry and packed with flavours suggested by the nose - grapefruit, yellow stone-fruits, nut and a whisper of banana. Full-bodies, lengthy and persistent finish. Youthful with plenty of acidity and some wood tannins. Lots to like with this example, decant for service with best drinking from today and through 2026. Points 95 RRP $60.00 Distributor: EuroVintage Phone: (03) 314 6869 www.pegasusbay.com

Very dark ruby and purple core with a ruby rim. Aromas of dark berries and pepper spices, vanilla and sweet clove. Additional aromas of blue fruits and a hint of new leather, baking spices and violets. Dry, nice core of fruit, lots of energy and texture on the palate with chalky tannins and plenty of acidity. Flavours reflect the nose. Complex, steely and haunting finish. A wine destined to age well. Best drinking 2022 through 2030. Points 95 RRP $59.99 Distributor: Quench Collective Limited Phone: (06) 879 8760 www.sacredhill.com

MARLBOROUGH 10 CHURTON PETIT MANSENG 2016

11

Very specific and quite exotic with aromas and flavours of quince, baked pineapple and candied fruits. Delicious on the palate with an electric acidity, plush and exotic flavours, lengthy persistent finish. Drink now and through 2024. Points 95 RRP $49.00 Distributor: Churton Phone: (03) 572 4007 www.churton-wines.co.nz

Immediately complex and seductive bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc, weighty and rich in aromas of white fleshed tree fruits, some tropical notes, citrus and lees-spices. Textured on the palate with abundant acidity, spice and flavours that reflect the nose. Lengthy finish. Drink now and through 2022. Points 95 RRP $25.00 Distributor: Nautilus Estate Phone: (09) 572 6008 www.nautilusestate.com

ELEVEN

TEN

NINE

EIGHT

SEVEN

SIX

14 | May 2019 | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | TheShout NZ

NAUTILUS MALBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018


TASTING NOTES VALLEY EARTH 12 PYRAMID SMOKE PINOT NOIR 2016

& SHETH CRU OMAHU PYRAMID VALLEY CENTRAL 13 SMITH HAWKE’S BAY CANTERA 2016 14 OTAGO PINOT NOIR 2017 This is a blended red wine from Hawke’s Bay fruit-led by Cabernet Sauvignon, Franc and Tempranillo. The nose shows off aromas of power and substance, with a youthful core of dark berries, spices, tobacco and smoky wood. On the palate - even more youthful with bold tannins and acidity, plenty of oak, spice, raspberry, dark berries, olive and violets. All the elements are there for a wine to age and integrate over the next few years. Lengthy dry finish, raw energy and muscle. Decant for service before 2022 with best drinking from 2022 through 2030. Points 94 RRP $60.00 Distributor: Great Little Vineyards Phone: (06) 650 5550 www.smithandsheth.com

Dark ruby core with plum and ruby highlights and a light pink hue at the rim. Aromas remind me of both the mineral soil attributes of Otago and the smashed strawberry fruits of Martinborough. On the palate however many of the hallmarks of a Central Pinot show with dark cherry, dried raspberry and savoury core with hints of wild thyme and minerals. Noticeable tannins and abundant acidity, a youthful wine with a core of vitality. Lengthy finish. Best enjoyed soon and through to 2024. Points 94 RRP $45.00 Distributor: Great Little Vineyards Phone: (027) 788 9463 www.pyramidvalley.co.nz

15

16

17

There’s no mistaking this wine has a distinctive bouquet. It’s earthy, steely and haunting with aromas of soil, fresh and pressed flowers, tea and a compote of mixed red berry fruits. Dry on the palate with silty soil and fine tannin textures, balanced acidity and flavours reminiscent of the bouquet. A thinking man’s (okay person’s) Pinot Noir, with a lengthy and thought provoking finish. Drink now and through 2022. Points 94 RRP $125.00 Distributor: Great Little Vineyards Phone: (027) 788 9463 www.pyramidvalley.co.nz

PYRAMID VALLEY MARLBOROUGH CHARDONNAY 2017

Varietal, fruity, familiar and fresh fruited bouquet. Aromas of wood before fruit, apple before spice, peach before flowers. Dry, weighty and full of fruit, wood and wild ferment flavours - flowers and flint, leesy spice and very fine tannins. Balanced, fresh, building complexity, loads of texture and well made. Drink now and through 2024. Points 93 RRP $40.00 Distributor: Great Little Vineyards Phone: (027) 788 9463 www.pyramidvalley.co.nz

PEGASUS BAY VERGENCE RED 2017

From 100% Pinot fruit with 100% whole bunch and 100% carbonic maceration technique - this wine has an intense dark, ruby appearance with a bouquet of ripe, spicy, savoury, plush lifted fruit profile, a whisper of red bubble-gum and plenty of natural Pinot Noir aromas. On the palate - a dry wine, fruity and quite intense with flavours that reflect the nose plus toasty oak wood spices, medium+ acidity and core of fruit. delicious and fresh with a lower tannin structure, coarse silk texture and lengthy finish. drink now and through 2022. Points 93 RRP $40.00 Distributor: EuroVintage Phone: (03) 314 6869 www.pegasusbay.com

SMITH & SHETH HERETAUNGA GIMBLETT GRAVELS HAWKE’S BAY SYRAH 2017

Varietal and immediately enticing bouquet of sweet oak and pepper spice, toasty wood and dark berries with raspberry and black currant. Dry, toasty, fruity and spicy on the palate with dusty wood tannins, plenty of acidity, medium+ weight and intensity. The finish is finer with dark cherry and some floral moments. Youthful overall though drinkable today and through 2026. Points 93 RRP $60.00 Distributor: Great Little Vineyards Phone: (06) 650 5550 www.smithandsheth.com

SEVENTEEN

SIXTEEN

FIFTEEN

FOURTEEN

THIRTEEN

TWELVE

TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | May 2019 | 15


Honey,

I’m home T

To contact John Oszajca regarding beer features or samples, please email him at john@newzealandbrewer.co.nz

here is an age-old debate between beer and wine fans about which came first - beer, wine, or mead (honey wine). It seems that every few years, a new archaeological discovery bequeaths the trophy from one to the other, while pushing back the date when humans first began producing alcohol by thousands of years. While we may never know for certain which actually came first, there is no doubt that mead is one of the oldest alcoholic beverages on earth. As things currently stand, the oldest known production of mead dates back to 7000 BC, in northern China, where residue from a honey and rice-based fermented beverage has been found in ancient pottery vessels. In Europe, similar evidence of mead production has been found on ceramics that are approximately 4000 years old. It should, perhaps, come as no surprise that mead has such ancient origins. In its simplest form, mead is nothing more than honey, water, and yeast. Honey itself will not ferment unless the moisture content is above 19%. However, should a beehive fall victim to a rainstorm or flood (with the help of the wild yeast already present in most honey), Mother Nature herself can brew up a batch of basic mead. This divine beverage was no doubt discovered many thousands of years ago, by some fortunate Paleolithic forager, thus beginning an intoxicating relationship between mead and mankind; a relationship that has persisted throughout the ages.

16 | May 2019 | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | TheShout NZ

Beer writer John Oszajca explores mead - aka honey wine - one of the oldest alcoholic beverages on earth.

Despite its ancient and Asian origins, it is perhaps the European Middle Ages that are most synonymous with mead. Mead was common across Medieval Scandinavia, Gaul, and Teutonic Europe, especially in the northern countries where grapes did not grow well. It is mentioned throughout many Norse legends and medieval tales, and romanticised in literature such as the Book of Taliesin, The Mabinogion, and Beowulf. In this tradition, we also find references to mead in more modern stories like the Lord of The Rings and Game of Thrones. To many, mead is perceived as the favourite drink of Vikings and Kings. For a beverage that has been so significantly intertwined with human history, it is surprising that it is so uncommon in our bottle shops. It’s especially surprising here in New Zealand, where we are so renowned for our honey. Ask a room full of people what they know about mead, and you’ll be surprised by how many have never even heard of it, and still fewer have had the opportunity to try it. When they have, more often than not, it’s been home-brewed, and is often of questionable quality – a fact that has not helped mead’s reputation. Despite the fact that mead is technically a wine, its popularity has risen on the back of the craft beer movement, particularly in the US and the UK, where it has been embraced by an increasing number of younger drinkers and craft beer fans. Mead has become one of the fastest growing segments of the alcohol industry in the US, and has seen approximately


BEER FEATURE TRADITIONAL MEAD

Me ad

e op was Eur c i n comm on across Teuto Mac’s Love Buzz

10% annual growth in the UK. Unfortunately, Kiwi drinkers have not yet taken this same interest in the honey-based beverage. However, there are a few signs that change may be on the horizon. Historically, there have only been a handful of mead producers in New Zealand. And even some of the largest of them (such as Bemrose Estate) are only producing a few thousand litres each year. However, the introduction of Session Mead (lower ABV and typically carbonated) may just be the key to unlocking the commercial potential of mead here in New Zealand. In 2017, Mac’s New Zealand released Love Buzz, and soon after the independent producer Lone Bee released a sparkling mead. Both meads were session strength, and aimed at beer and cider drinkers rather than the wine market. While Love Buzz was initially a special release, it has gone back into production, signifying that the demand is there, and Lone Bee has already surpassed the production volume of some of New Zealand’s long established Meadaries, in just a few short years. Only time will tell what the fate of New Zealand mead might be. But given the reputation and unique characteristics of New Zealand honey, coupled with mead’s export potential, there is every reason to expect that mead might experience a similar boom to the one that US and UK Mead producers have seen in recent years.

STYLE

For a drink that is traditionally made with just honey, water, and yeast, mead is incredibly varied. Across the globe and throughout the ages, mead has been made with the addition of a huge array of ingredients. Its alcoholic strength can range from low to incredibly high, and mead’s finish can range from dry to sweet, or even bitter, depending on the ingredients added. Let us take a look at some of the different style categories of mead, to better help you understand and evaluate this under-appreciated, and often misunderstood, beverage.

FROM THE MEAD-MAKERS “In the States, a lot of the mead is made in a way that is kind of like a grape wine. Whereas here [in New Zealand] people don’t want something that imitates a normal wine. They want something that is sweeter; they want something that is distinctly fruity.” Mark Atkins, Bemrose Mead “I have a dream that one day we’ll have these meaderies in the middle of nowhere, and they are each producing honey and mead that may change from one year to another. However, it’s that authenticity of the honey and the area that could be really positive. And that’s where I think the potential of Mead in New Zealand is huge.” Oren Dalton, Lone Bee

Lone Bee

A traditional mead is made using nothing other than honey, water, and yeast, though most mead makers will also add nutrients to help with fermentation. Traditional mead truly showcases the variety of honey used, and as such flavours can vary dramatically. Whereas the ‘vintage’ is the hallmark of a good wine, the honey variety and terroir is the hallmark of a good mead. There are several sub styles within the traditional mead category, the most significant of which, is based on the degre e of sweetness in the mead. They can be categorized as sweet, semi-sweet, and dry. They are also categorised by alcoholic strength. A ‘Hydromel’ is the least alcoholic of the sub-styles, clocking in at under 7.5% ABV. A standard mead ranges between 7.5% and 14% ABV, and a ‘Sack Mead’ is anything above 14% ABV.

METHEGLEN

Any mead that contains herbs or spices is called a Metheglen. These may include spices such as cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, meadowsweet, lavender, chamomile, or even hops, just to name a few. Coffee and chili meads also fall within this category. The flavour impact of these herbs and spices may range from subtle to strong, but they should always remain in balance with the honey and never stifle its character. Metheglen was the favourite brew of many a medieval mead maker.

MELOMEL

A Melomel, is a mead that is made with the addition of fruit. Melomels are a very popular style of mead, and are commonly made with virtually every type of fruit one can imagine. This includes, but is in no way limited to, strawberry, cherry, blueberry, blackberry, pineapple, and even prickly pear cactus fruit. Just like a Metheglen, the key to a good Melomel is to find the perfect balance between the best qualities of the fruit and the natural flavours and essence of the honey.

SESSION MEAD

While a ‘Session Mead’ is technically just another name for a Hydromel, it’s worth mentioning it as its own unique category because of how it has emerged in the market place, which is as an alternative to beer and cider, rather than as a variation on wine. Traditionally, most meads are fairly high in alcohol, and are very often sweet. Mead is meant to be sipped and enjoyed slowly. It could be argued that because of mead’s perceived sweetness (often even when there is no residual sugar actually left), it tends to be less popular as an accompaniment to a meal. This is perhaps part of the reason that mead has struggled to make a splash in the wine market. However, by lowering mead’s ABV, and adding carbonation to aid in balance and ‘digestibility’ (to borrow a term from the Belgians), Mead becomes a beer alternative rather than a sweet wine. The hope of many mead makers is that these changes will open up the category, and increase awareness amongst a much wider, and more receptive audience. The challenge to making a good Session Mead is to produce a mead that is lower in alcohol while still being complex. A Session Mead should express the qualities of the honey varietal used, and avoid being flabby or thin due to the lower volume of honey used in the process. Second only to grape wine, mead is a beverage whose quality is greatly based on the varietal, and terroir. As a country that produces some of the greatest honey in the world, there is no question that New Zealand should be known as one of the greatest mead producers in the world. While we have not earned that reputation yet, a few creative, and passionate artisans and entrepreneurs are making headway. Alas, it all comes down to the consumer. So by all means, dear reader, go out and try some mead. You won’t be sorry you did. n  TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | May 2019 | 17


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