Hospitality March 2023

Regulars

6 // IN FOCUS

Poh Ling Yeow fronts her first restaurant in Melbourne.

8 // NEWS

The latest openings, books, events and more.

10 // PRODUCE

How to use okra.

14 // BAR CART

Thirst quenchers, slow sippers and all things beverage related.

Contents

MARCH 2023

16 // DRINKS

Boxed wine is having a resurgence thanks to its sustainable nature.

22 // PROFILE

Lana’s Alex Wong on Italian–Asian cuisine and House Made Hospitality’s new CBD opening.

52 // EQUIPMENT

The onggi is at the heart of Korean cooking.

54 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Dan McBride from Enmore Country Club.

Features

28 // SAUCES

Two chefs on the role of mother sauces in the kitchen.

34 // KOREAN

The nuanced cuisine is fast evolving in Australia.

38 // WINE BARS

Say hello to the new-wave wine bars bringing even more to the table.

44 // EASTER MENUS

How restaurants plan to make the most of the long weekend.

A note from the editor

TRENDS TEND TO sweep across the industry — and the wine bar is one you will be seeing plenty more of this year. But it’s hard to categorise the venue as a trend — after all, it’s nothing new. But the wine bar of the here and now is. Bar Copains in Sydney and Lilac Wine Bar in Melbourne are plating up food you’d find at a fine diner in a compact, casual wine bar format — think considered interior design, bespoke ceramics and crack service teams.

The style of venue is absolutely something to cheers to, as is the appointment of Hospitality ’s new Deputy Editor Amy Northcott. Give her story on the changing face of Korean cuisine across the country a

PUBLISHER

Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au

EDITOR

Annabelle Cloros

T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au

DEPUTY EDITOR Amy Northcott anorthcott@intermedia.com.au

DISCLAIMER

read along with her piece on the upcoming Easter weekend, which covers how venues will make the most of the festivities with luxe seafood spreads and plenty of sweet treats.

It would be remiss to skip over the feature on mother sauces and the role they currently play in the kitchen. It’s incredible that five sauces incepted during the 19th century are the foundation of most of what we see in the kitchen today. The Charles’ Billy Hannigan and Chancery Lane’s Pak Tam reveal how they first learned to make the basics and how they riff them today. Until next time,

Annabelle Cloros Editor

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York

T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au

GROUP ART DIRECTOR –LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au

PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

CIRCULATIONS To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymag azine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag

SUBSCRIPTION RATES

Australia:

1 year (10 issues) = $99.00 (inc GST)

2 years (20 issues) = $158.40

(inc GST) – Save 20%

3 years (30 issues) = $207.90

(inc GST) – Save 30%

SUBSCRIPTION RATES

New Zealand:

1 year (10 issues) = $109.00

Asia/Pacific

1 year (10 issues) = $119.00

Rest of World:

1 year (10 issues) = $129.00

This publication is published by Food and Beverage Media, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. Copyright © 2023 – The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd

41 Bridge Road Glebe NSW 2037 Australia Tel: 02 9660

All aboard

WORDS Annabelle

PHOTOGRAPHY

POH LING YEOW first graced our screens on MasterChef Australia back in 2009, going on to open Jam Face in Adelaide and co-host cult TV show Snackmasters — and that’s just a snippet of what she’s been up to. Now, Ling Yeow is doing something a little different — spearheading a restaurant experience in collaboration with The Singleton and QT Melbourne. But it’s not your average sit-down meal.

Hospitality speaks to the cook about fusing theatrics with food, pairing Plus Two cocktails with signature bites delivered to guests on a sushi train and the global inspiration behind her sweet and savoury menu.

Food served on a conveyor belt is nothing new, and who doesn’t appreciate innovation teamed with instant gratification? While trains were once the domain of casual eateries, they have gone on to enter the realm of fine but approachable dining, which is what The Singleton’s Delicious Discoveries experience is all about.

The scotch whisky brand selected Poh Ling Yeow to bring its culinary vision to life at QT Melbourne, with the cook describing the partnership as a natural fit. “I haven’t had my café for several years and being able to feed people in such a beautiful setting and collaborate with two brands I really love was a no-brainer,” she says.

It also presented an opportunity for Ling Yeow to jump into the restaurant game and design a menu with the same freedom she’d have if she was going solo — within the realms of working with

Poh Ling Yeow fronts her first restaurant in collaboration with QT Melbourne and The Singleton.

Cloros

Griffin Simm

the train, of course. “Obviously, you have to think about things such as temperature, the size and the fact it’s travelling on a conveyor belt, so there were a few logical aspects to consider,” she says. “But apart from that, I was left to do my own thing which was awesome. It’s about people choosing dishes with different textures, temperatures and cultural influences. It’s how I like to cook, which is eclectically.”

The crux of Delicious Discoveries revolves around Ling Yeow-designed dishes that have been created to complement The Singleton’s Plus Two cocktails. The drinks see an equal mix of whisky, a sparkling mixer and a still mixer. Take the Tropical, which combines The Singleton 12 Year Old with guava

juice and grapefruit soda or the Mediterranean with 12 Year Old, apricot nectar and lemon tonic. Guests can also mastermind their own creations by picking mixers and giving them to QT Melbourne bartenders to whip up. It’s “a winning formula that works with all sorts of ingredients from the sweet to the nutty to the bitter, delivering a cocktail that has maximum flavour with minimum fuss,” says Katie Nagar, national brand ambassador for The Singleton. “The flavour pairings [are] only enhanced through the rich and deep flavours of Poh’s cooking.”

And that they are. Ling Yeow’s menu comprises eight dishes split into savoury and sweet, with a paired cocktail listed under each. “When it’s just a small bite, it encourages people to be more adventurous,” says the cook. “There are French fries with bagna cauda, which is a Northern Italian anchovy and cream sauce, and a fried chicken bao with kimchi which is a nod to Korea.”

Ling Yeow has also made chawanmushi with shiitake and fish scalding sauce — an exercise in technique and refinement. “It’s also done in Chinese [cooking] and I’m really looking forward to people tasting it because a lot haven’t had it before. It has such an interesting, beautiful texture and is subtle in its flavour. There should be no bubbles in it like a good crème caramel and it should be barely set.”

The final savoury option is cool and spicy Szechuanese eggplant, which is best enjoyed with the Palmer cocktail that combines 12 Year Old with lemon iced tea and lemon squash.

“The dish is fried silken eggplant with a numbing miso-flavoured sauce,” says the cook.

Ling Yeow is known for her pastry creations, and the sweet side of the menu showcases her affinity for tweaking classic flavour profiles.

Strawberries and aged balsamic contrast against each other in a dish with mascarpone yoghurt, roasted almonds and basil in a nod to the foundational Italian dessert, while chocolate is the focal point of the cook’s version of a mess. “It has salted caramel, chocolate custard, chocolate biscuits and salted caramel,” says Ling Yeow.

“There’s also a miso apple caramel turnover and a pandan coconut sago shot, which is something I grew up eating.”

Delicious Discoveries will run until May from Thursday to Sunday, with guests invited to pop in for an afternoon or make an evening out of it at QT. “It’s accessible and there is yummy food and cheeky cocktails,” says Ling Yeow. “You can’t really go wrong.” ■

“It’s how I like to cook, which is eclectically.”

– Poh Ling Yeow

Entrée

The latest openings, books, events and more.

EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

The Indonesian Table

Petty Pandean-Elliott

Phaidon; $49.95

Chef and Author Petty Pandean-Elliott delves into the rich culinary history of Indonesia in her latest book that combines recipes with recollections of her time spent in the country. The Indonesian Table focuses on signature dishes from eight regions including coconut curry, gado gado, sambal and bubur sumsum (coconut pudding). Pandean-Elliott has put together 150 recipes for cooks to recreate which are accompanied by thoughtful tips and stunning imagery captured by Yuki Sugiura. The author has long been working to make Indonesian cookery more accessible across the globe, with the book sure to contribute to the bigger picture.

The Prince Dining Room 2.0

Melbourne venue The Prince have ushered in a new chapter for its second-level restaurant The Prince Dining Room. Dan Cooper is heading up the kitchen as executive chef and has written a new menu unlike anything the venue has ever seen before. “[It’s] a reflection of the coast’s delicate flavour pairings while staying true to the simplistic elegance the St Kilda dining scene is known for,” says the chef. Guests can start a meal with a beef tartare and gruyère puff or a yellowfin tuna tartlet before shifting along to lamp rump with smoked eggplant and tahini and roasted beet tagliatelle dialled up with smoked fish and citrus sauce. The venue has also elevated its beverage program with the launch of The Bar, which features cocktails by Paul Beresford. theprince.com.au

Golden Century Group launches BBQ eatery

The family behind one of Sydney’s most-loved restaurants have expanded their Darling Square footprint with Golden Century BBQ. Located inside the Exchange building, Co-Owner Billy Wong says the goal is to make customers “feel like they’re eating at a restaurant without having to dine inside”. The concept revolves around Golden Century’s signature roast duck as well as char siu and steamed-to-order dim sum. Guests can also grab a side of XO pipi sauce for flavour-packed dunking.

Strong, Sweet and Bitter

Your Guide to all Things Cocktails, Bartending and Booze from Behind the Bar

Cara Devine

Hardie Grant Books ; $36.99

You may recognise Cara Devine from her web series Behind the Bar or perhaps you’ve seen her on the floor at Bomba Rooftop in Melbourne. The bar professional has been in the industry since the age of 16, spending years refining classic and modern cocktails. Strong, Sweet and Bitter is broken up into categories and delves into the flavour triangle of mixing balanced and memorable cocktails. The book includes the history behind foundational drinks, useful tips and a rundown on mandatory pieces of equipment every bartender should own. Released 5 April.

Josh and Julie Niland open Petermen on Sydney's North Shore

The latest addition to Josh and Julie Niland’s burgeoning seafood empire has officially arrived in St Leonards. Petermen sees the couple’s refined and innovative approach to cooking with Australian seafood in full force. Expect some of Josh’s most iconic dishes to make an appearance on the Sunday brunch menu including the sea urchin crumpet as well as the new addition of smoked Murray cod bacon and maple pancakes. The à la carte lunch and dinner offering covers dishes including linecaught bonito and bone soy as well as marron with curry butter. petermen.com.au

Purple dreams

The Mulberry Group is going from strength to strength with the launch of its second venue in three months. Lilac Wine can be found in Cremorne, Melbourne, located opposite sibling establishment Square One Coffee Roasters. Kyle Nicol, who has worked in Michelin-star restaurants, combines French influences with Aussie nostalgia across the menu — think savoury mince toast with horseradish and a red wine and chicken mousse éclair with black garlic and honey. Chefs are making the most of the kitchen fit-out, cooking over fire as much as possible as well as fermenting in-house. Lilac’s 150-strong wine list has been curated by Head Sommelier Richard Buck, who is shining a light on small-scale makers as well as those who make wine in line with organic and biodynamic practices. lilacwinebar.com.au

Three-star restaurant L’Enclume comes to Sydney

Chef Simon Rogan is bringing L’Enclume to Bathers’ Pavilion in July for a month-long residency. Based in Cumbria, Northern England, the restaurant recently secured its third Michelin star for its menu that links innovation with a grass-roots ethos. Rogan and select members of the L’Enclume team will create a bespoke eight-course menu with snacks and petit fours ($420) from 19 July to 20 August. “We are looking forward to experimenting with ingredients we haven’t had the opportunity to work with before and cooking them simply to highlight their natural taste, texture and fragrance and extract maximum flavour and interest,” says the chef. batherspavilion.com

Photography by Josh Niland

Thrives in hot and humid climates

Okra

The green seed pod flourishes in the warmer months.

WORDS Aristine Dobson

Key ingredient in gumbo

Needs full sun to grow

Secretes a slimy mucus when cooked

Known as bhindi in India

Plants produce hibiscus-like flowers

Used across multiple cuisines

Origins

Okra or Abelmoschus esculentus is an ornamental plant that is considered part of the Malvaceae family which includes cacao, durian and hibiscus. Although the geographical origin of okra is disputed, it is believed to have roots around Ethiopia where it can be traced as far back as the 12th century BC where it was cultivated by Egyptians.

Also known as lady’s fingers, okra is grown across Asia, Africa, South America, Africa and the Middle East. In Australia, okra is grown mainly in the Northern Territory, Queensland and Western Australia, with other states producing smaller volumes.

Growth and harvest

Okra grows best in hot and humid climates and is at its peak during the summer months. The plants are perennials, but are usually cultivated annually and require full sun. It is recommended seeds are soaked overnight in tepid water before planting to promote germination. Seeds must be

placed 2cm deep in warm soil with 15cm between each planting.

During the early stages, a layer of mulch should be applied to prevent weeds from growing. Plants need to be watered and fertilised throughout the growth process for optimum yield. The seed pods are typically harvested after two months or once they have reached 5–6cm in length.

When removing the pods, it is important to wear protective clothing and gloves as most varieties are covered in spines that can irritate the skin. To remove the pods from the plant, the stem should be cut above the cap with a sharp knife. If the stems are too difficult to cut, the pod is too old to consume and should be discarded. After the first harvest, the lower leaves of the plant should be removed by hand or with scissors.

Flavour profile and appearance

There are many different varieties of okra, but Clemson’s Spineless and dark green are the most commonly grown across Australia.

Clemson’s Spineless grows between 7–10cm in length, but other varieties can reach up to 17cm.

Most okra is mid to dark green in colour except for Red Burgundy. Younger pods have white seeds that change to black as the plant matures. The fruit is known for its long, slender shape and is firm to the touch. It has a mild, grassy flavour that is comparable to eggplant or green beans.

Culinary applications

Although okra is considered a type of fruit, it is treated as a vegetable when used in cooking. Okra can be stir-fried, stewed, blanched or boiled and is a staple in Southern, Caribbean and Indian cuisines. The fruit has a crunchy texture when it is sautéed, but becomes tender when it is cooked. It secretes a slimy mucus that acts as a natural thickening agent, making it ideal for dishes such as gumbo. The slime results in an acquired mouth feel, which is why most chefs soak okra in a water and vinegar mixture before cooking. ■

Bar cart

Thirst quenchers, slow sippers and all things beverage related.

EDITED BY Amy Northcott

Ageing gracefully

The Barossa Valley is home to some of the oldest vines in the world, withstanding years of drought and disease to develop rich, premium wines.

Château Tanunda is celebrating its legacy with the release of the latest vintages in the Old Vine Expressions range. Sourced from sites across the Barossa, the 2018 50 Year Old Vine Shiraz and 2018 50 Year Old Cabernet Sauvignon (both $80) are a celebration of the region and its ancient vines. Aged in French and American oak, expect full-bodied wines with elegance and profiles developed from careful ageing. chateautanunda.com

Something new

Melbourne distillers The Craft & Co have joined the whisky game with the release of Solera aged whisky. Seven years in the making, it’s the brand’s first whisky product with only 500 bottles available. Dark and light malted grains are double pot distilled before being matured in a combination of Oloroso sherry casks and cherry and acacia vats. The result is a complex tipple with notes of pecan, stewed quince and dried raisins. $158. thecraftandco.com.au

Photography by Catherine Sutherland

Dream team

Canberra’s Underground Spirits has joined forces with Women in Information and Communication (WIC) to launch WIC gin. The collaboration celebrates women working in STEM and other tech industries, with $20 from each sale going to WIC to help support initiatives, awards and events. The gin features gumbi gumbi (native apricot) alongside strawberry, melaleuca and juniper to create a well-balanced, fresh gin. $95. undergroundspirits.com.au

Lighten up

Brash Higgins have released the 2022 Ripple Carbonic Nero Cabernet from the organic Omensetter Vineyard in McLaren Vale. Using a wet carbonic method, whole-bunch Nero d’Avola grapes are submerged with Cabernet juices to induce fermentation and create a lighter-style red. It’s a fresh, juicy red wine that can also be chilled. $35. brashhiggins.com

Time to sparkle

The UK’s Drinkmate has hit Australian shores with the release of the OmniFizz beverage carbonator. The slim, compact design comes in an array of colours and doesn’t use batteries or electricity, instead taking Australian threaded 60L co2 carbonator cylinders. It’s ideal for crafting sparkling juices, mocktails and cocktails. $109.99. drinkmate-aus.com.au

Feeling fresh

Sanpellegrino has refreshed the Naturali range with a new look and formula. The drinks are now crafted from 100 per cent natural ingredients and are packaged in a sleek, thin can for a more modern feel. The Naturali range covers Aranciata, Aranciata Rossa, Limonata, Clementina, Pompelmo and Melograno with Arancia. $7.50 for a four-pack. sanpellegrino.com

Inside the box

WORDS

GLASS BOTTLES HAVE been the vessel of choice for wine for decades. Either closed with cork or screwcap, bottles have been the go-to packaging for winemakers to showcase their most prized drops. The humble boxed wine sits on the other side of the scale. Affectionately known to most as goon, boxed wine has long held a reputation of being mass-produced and of low-quality. But the format is having a revival thanks to its eco-centric nature. Hospitality speaks with boxed wine brand Hey Tomorrow along with wineries Gonzo Vino and Koerner Wine about changing perceptions and why boxed products are a sustainable choice for venues and consumers alike.

During a WSET course on wine packaging, Sacha Imrie turned to her partner Shane Barrett and said, “I just can’t believe more people aren’t doing this.” The ‘this’ she was referring to was using ‘bag and box’ to package wines. Bag and box, boxed or cask wine was invented in South Australia and is largely thought of as a lowquality, bulk product rather than a fine, collector wine. “Cask wine was a victim of its own success,” says Barrett. “It was never invented

for cheap wines, but because it ended up being lower cost than a bottle per unit to package, it automatically attracted a lot of cheap wines.”

Imrie and Barrett teamed up with Kelly O’Loghlen, Jesse Gerner and Andrew Fisk to change the narrative of boxed wine with the launch of Hey Tomorrow in 2020. The brand partnered with established wineries including Lethbridge, Syrahmi and Ben Haines to produce a range of boxed red, white and Rosé wines and prove they were just as good as their glass bottle counterparts.

Despite the public image of boxed wine, Hey Tomorrow believe it’s the way forward when it comes to packaging. “There’s a lot of different aspects from the sustainability side of things,” says Barrett. “For example, a lot of glass in Australia doesn’t get recycled at all — you only get about 60–70 per cent conversion depending on the machinery. I think people have this image [that glass recycles well], especially in Australia, because it was the first thing people started to recycle.”

Can last up to 30 days once opened

Younger, ready-to-drink wines work well in bag and box

Great option for by-theglass offerings

Easy to transport and cheaper to produce than glass

It’s time to rethink the underdog of wine.

Amy Northcott

The production process is relatively no frills, with the team travelling to wineries in a van equipped with a filling machine. The bags, or wine bladders, are filled to the point of having almost no oxygen before they are sealed and sent back to the warehouse for distribution.

Hey Tomorrow’s packaging is made from 75 per cent cardboard and 25 per cent plastic, with the cardboard able to be fully recycled through household bins. The wine bladder and tap can be sent back to Hey Tomorrow for free where it is disposed of responsibly by pyrolytic waste company Renergi.

The business has also partnered with Scholle IPN to log the carbon footprint of the products, noting a seven to eight times reduction in co2 emissions throughout the lifecycle compared to glass. This is mainly due to weight and size when it comes to distribution along with recyclability. “We can easily fit 1,000L of wine in a bag and box onto one pallet, but if we were to fill 1,000L into bottles, you would never fit it onto one pallet because the bottles take up more room,” says Barrett. “A lot of carbon savings come from the logistics of moving the products around.”

Marcus Radny started his alternative packaged wine brand Gonzo Vino Wines in 2018 after questioning the purpose of glass bottles for ready-to-drink wines. “It’s just an incredible waste of carbon, energy, shipping and space,” he says. “There are very few wines on the planet that actually benefit from being in a bottle. What’s the point if it’s just going to get drunk within three or four months of its life?”

Radny sells boxed wines to an array of venues — even those that don’t sell large volumes of wine. “Places where wine might not be the main drawcard don’t want to compromise with cheap options that they might have to tip down the sink at the end of the week,” he says. “So, they buy my wine in casks and get a highquality product without worrying about it being wasted because they’ve got an eight- or nine-week window to sell it.”

The bag and box design doesn’t allow oxygen into the wine bladder when pouring, which means the wine lasts longer as it does not oxidise. Boxed wines can last several weeks once they have been opened, preventing unnecessary waste. Hey Tomorrow’s wines last for 30 days once a box has been opened, which is longer than wines in bottle. “We’ve been doing larger 5L bags for venues and it’s really good for smaller restaurants because you don’t need the infrastructure for kegs,” says Barrett.

Koerner Wine in South Australia’s Clare Valley has also turned to bag and box, launching the Brothers in a Box collection in 2022. Co-Owner and Winemaker Jono Koerner says the idea came about

“It’s an uphill battle on people’s perception of value and quality inside the boxes.” – Marcus Radny

after discussions about lowering the winery’s carbon footprint were had along with the realisation that younger styles of wine don’t need to be stored in bottle and aged. “These are wines that are ready to go and drink straight away — it’s not about cellaring,” he says. “We thought the option to put them in box would be great as there’s no difference whatsoever.”

Brothers in a Box has experienced success in venues since launching last year. “We’ve had some great restaurants pouring out of a box, but some are a little hesitant because they don’t want consumers to think they’re drinking something stupid,” says Koerner. “But if the story of the wine is communicated and the wine gets in the glass, you’re absolutely fine as the product speaks for itself.”

Koerner also notes the impact of the way the wine appears on the menu. “Some venues put sustainably packaged Riesling instead of putting boxed wine,” he says. “It’s the little things that can get people to give it a go.”

While winemakers agree there are sustainability and logistical benefits, there is still a hurdle to overcome — the public’s perception of boxed wine. “One of the hardest things is selling a 3L box of wine for $60 when you can get a 3L box of wine for $10,” says Radny. “It’s an uphill battle when it comes to people’s perception of value and quality inside the boxes. 3L boxes are the equivalent of four bottles, so you’re essentially buying four bottles for $60 that last for eight weeks once you open them.”

Koerner agrees and believes acceptance will come about with education and time. “I think it’s going to be a great thing — it’s just getting over the idea of boxed wine as being bad,” he says. “As soon as we get over that, I think you’re going to see a lot more of it.”

Bag and box have come a long way since inception, and winemakers are more than ready to usher in a new chapter for the category. The modern consumer is open to education — remember when tap wines debuted? — and is aware of the importance of making sustainable decisions when it comes to their purchases. The ascension of boxed wine from a producer and venue perspective is more than proof there’s a bright future ahead for the category. ■

“You look at the wine in the bottle and in the box and there’s no difference whatsoever.” – Jono Koerner

Nisbets products cover everything from refrigeration to pastry, cooking machines to knives, and everything in between.

Shop online, in-store or over the phone for the best prices on the products you need.

Discover the Benchmark range

The new Benchmark washing machines

Thanks to Miele Professional's proverbial quality, Benchmark washing machines are designed to perform to perfection for over 30,000 hours of operation. Intuitive controls and individual settings streamline processes and offer maximum security for users. Program packages with short cycles specifically designed to deal with standard and special-purpose applications produce excellent results while using resources sparingly. Combining digital interfaces and new technologies, Benchmark washing machines are the perfectly balanced solution for large loads and multiple cycles per day.

The new Benchmark dryers

Even after 20,000 hours of constant strain, Benchmark dryers still achieve drying times which are close to the physical limit without compromising the first-class care of fabrics. Alongside the gentle care of laundry and low energy consumption, the combination of the new controls, the smart interfaces, its patented systems such as AirRecycling Flex and PerfectDry and robust, maintenance-free technology ensures spot-on drying and sets new standards in terms of cycle times. ■

Washing machines and dryers from Miele Professional's new Benchmark generation strike the perfect balance.

Benchmark washing machines and dryers.

Maximise process efficiency in hotels and restaurants.

Miele Professional Benchmark Machines combine efficient washing and heat pump drying technologies with user-friendly touch controls and customisable programmes. This new machine series provides short cycle times and efficient spin performance, saving 20% water* and 30% energy* without compromising performance. In conjunction with One Finger Touch, durable components, and access to all Miele Professional solutions, the new Benchmark generation will take your business to the next level: www.miele.com.au/professional *Compared

Miele Professional. Immer Besser.

The perfect run, achieved through precision and control.

Alex Wong

Where were you cooking before joining House Made Hospitality?

I completed an apprenticeship and then started my professional career doing Italian food at A Tavola before moving to Russo & Russo, where I delved into contemporary Italian flavours. After the first lockdown, I was approached by House Made to open Lana and that was pretty much it. Stephen [Seckold, House Made director] had lunch at Russo and wanted someone to do something similar at Lana. I had seen posts on social media about Hinchcliff House and they had just opened Grana. I also knew Stephen and his background working at Flying Fish, but I didn’t know they had such big plans to open so many venues.

What was the brief you were given for Lana?

When I was hired, it was pretty much, ‘We have a space ready for you and this is what we want to do’. The brief was Italian-ish — kind of like what I was doing at Russo. It had to be fun, have an Asian element, lean towards Italian cuisine and focus on Australian seafood. I was excited about that because I hadn’t worked at a restaurant that focused on just seafood. When we first opened, there was a lot of seafood, but we have pulled back a bit to suit our customers, so now the menu is around 60–70 per cent seafood.

The Lana chef on Italian–Asian, dialling up the snack game and spearheading a restaurant that will shake up Sydney’s French bistro landscape

PHOTOGRAPHY Steven Woodburn

“We have a base of regular customers now who come in once or twice a week, and I pinch myself because I didn’t think we would grow so quickly.”

Lana runs à la carte and set menu options — how did you settle on a hybrid format?

We had a tough start at the beginning and couldn’t figure out whether to do a set menu or à la carte. But lockdown gave us a lot of time to think and refine. It was a blessing in disguise being able to reopen better and stronger. We did a set menu for a while, but now now it’s semi à la carte which works great.

Semi à la carte has individual snacks and then you choose entrée, main and dessert, but 90 per cent of people choose to share. You can also add dishes from the playlist, which changes quite often. There could be marron spaghetti or a fried potato bite with caviar and sea urchin. You can choose your own adventure and not be closed in with a stiff menu. We have a base of regular customers now who come in once or twice a week, and I pinch myself because I didn’t think we would grow so quickly.

How would you describe the dynamic in the kitchen?

We have been lucky this year with staff. I’ve worked with half of the team before at previous jobs and I brought them in. We have a lot of fun in the kitchen, but when it comes to service, they know when to be serious. We all work very well together, and I treat them like family. I encourage them to help me with dishes and give them incentives to push harder.

What are some of the dishes you’re most proud of?

There’s a steamed coral trout with bonito butter, Jervis Bay mussels and fioretto, which is one of my highlights. We also have a roast flounder with ginger and shallot butter and capers which I’ve moved around a bit across the menu in the last year or so. We make a salsa verde with ginger and shallots and add it to a beurre blanc-type sauce with dashi and fish stock. I love snacks and am trying to ramp up the snack game on the playlist. It’s one thing I push for and I get the team involved in it, too. If I could open a bar and just serve snacks … that’s my dream.

Alex Wong

– Alex Wong

Club

change frequently

year

Wong hopes to collab with chefs from Adelaide and Melbourne

Lana’s menu is 60–70 per cent seafoodfocused

You’re heading up Club Martinez as executive chef. How would you describe the culinary direction of the new restaurant?

Club Martinez is focusing on food from Southern France, so I’ve been researching Nice, Corsica and Monaco and working on a menu with my head chef that’s simple and tasty. A lot of Provençal dishes are similar to Italian and are very old school, leaning towards parsley, garlic and lemon, so I’m using that as inspiration. It’s light, fresh and there’s a lot of olive oil, herbs, anchovies and seafood. I’ll throw in some Asian umami too, so expect it to be a surprise. Everything is still in the works, but I’m thinking of doing a baked pilaf rice with abalone. We’re trying to be different to all the other French restaurants in Sydney and some of the dishes would have never been seen before in a French bistro.

How do you plan on juggling Lana with the opening of Club Martinez?

It’s a massive venue and I have faith in this project, so I think it will go smoothly. There will be head chefs in both venues, and I’m confident the Lana team will keep things running while I focus on Martinez. Obviously, I will be there to guide them and I’m hoping to divide my time evenly between the two restaurants.

I am also hoping staffing will get better this year, but I am still being sent CVs. I am trying to push for a four-day work week for my chefs, which will possibly start at Martinez and move across to Lana. It’s how I prefer to work. ■

Lana’s playlist menu features add-on dishes that

Martinez is slated to open in autumn this

Alex Wong

Back to basics

Two chefs on mother sauces in the modern kitchen.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

PHOTOGRAPHY Steven Woodburn for The Charles; Alex Squadrito and Tania Bahr for Chancery Lane

SAUCE IS AN integral element of many dishes, concepted to add layers of flavour, levels of texture and a little viscosity. Not to skip on one of its most appealing factors — that little something extra to swipe up with a piece of bread. Learning how to make a good sauce is a foundational cooking skill and a process of discovery for chefs. And what better place to start than mother sauces when it comes to Eurocentric cooking?

French Chef Georges Auguste Escoffier wrote about six sauces in his book Le Guide Culinaire (A Guide to Modern Cookery) in 1907: velouté, bechamel, espagnole, allemande, sauce tomate and hollandaise. The sauces are the building blocks for daughter sauces such as mornay which is derived from bechamel; supreme from velouté; demi-glace from espagnole; bearnaise from hollandaise and creole from tomate. And that’s just scratching the surface of the wide world of sauces.

Hospitality speaks to Billy Hannigan from The Charles in Sydney and Chancery Lane’s Pak Tam about learning from the best, the pressure points of making classic sauces and the various iterations of mother sauces that currently appear on their menus.

The Charles swung open its doors in Sydney’s CBD last year and epitomises all things luxe and grand. The opulent restaurant is a nod to old-world dining where desserts are wheeled around on trolleys and plates are accompanied by metal gravy boats filled to the brim with sauce. It’s the second restaurant from Etymon Projects, which arrived on the hospitality scene with French brasserie Loulou, which Billy Hannigan spearheaded before moving across to The Charles.

Hannigan began his culinary journey with none other than Guillaume Brahimi at the two-hatted Guillaume at Bennelong. “I have been in and out of French restaurants more or less my whole career,” says Hannigan. “I did my apprenticeship over at Bennelong when I was about 15 and I was introduced to classic old-school chicken stocks, béchamels and cream sauces from an early age. Chicken stocks and béchamels are what you’re taught at an early age and they’re the basics. I don’t think a lot of people know how to make a great white chicken stock, which is so simple. It’s good for chefs to come through European or French restaurants to learn the foundations.”

The chef has always found himself in Eurocentric fine diners and spent several years at The Ledbury in London, refining his skills alongside Chef Brett Graham and picking up valuable saucerelated know-how. “Whether it was beef, lamb or fish sauce — everything was tasted by three to four chefs before service because everyone has a different palate,” says Hannigan. “Every sauce was finished with two to three seasonings (chives, herbs, lemon, olives or garlic) to uplift it and add more flavour before plating.”

Hannigan names chicken jus gras as one of the most impressionable sauces he learned as a budding chef. “We would get chicken bones and then brown chicken wings to make a double brown stock at The Ledbury,” he says. “Then we would get drumsticks and put them with mushrooms, garlic, shallots, peppercorns, bay leaves and thyme and cook it down for a few hours before seasoning it with Madeira and veal jus before reducing it down. It was a two- to three-day process, but the flavour was incredible. You could almost drink the sauce.”

It’s an undoubtedly laborious process that requires immense attention to detail — an oversight at any point can sabotage the entire sauce. Take the chicken, for example. A lowquality carcass will completely alter the flavour profile as can low-effort skimming. “The fat from the wing bones and drumsticks can re-emulsify into the sauce and cream it out so it won’t make a clear broth — skimming is very important and so is adding the aromatics at the right time, which really impacts the end product,” says Hannigan.

But it all boils down to purpose: sauces are simply “nice eating”, says Hannigan. “They’re so important to kitchens,” he says. “We put a jug of sauce on all the main courses so people can get a bit ‘dirty’ with eating.”

Many of the sauces currently served at The Charles are constructed from a basic white sauce and tweaked with herbs, citrus or caviar. An example is the vol-au-vent (which translates to

windblown in French) that is served with a jug of frothy velouté poured tableside by front of house. “It has roasted sweetbreads and yabbies and we make a broth with lobster heads, crab bones, saffron and tomato that we emulsify with butter,” says Hannigan. “We froth it up and it’s a nice and bubbly velouté that’s served on the side. The waiter pours it and leaves the pot on the side for guests to use at their discretion.”

Supreme sauce is another example of classic French cookery that begins as a velouté before being thickened with cream. “We finish it with tarragon and chives and we put smoked ocean trout in, which is more unusual with the pork schnitzel, but it works,” says Hannigan. The chef was also behind the creation of Loulou’s signature dish of John Dory with sauce

Champagne. “We make a Champagne velouté which is simple in terms of [its composition of] equal amounts of fish stock, cream and Champagne which is reduced down and finished with caviar and chives.”

In an ideal world, every sauce would be made from scratch every day — but factors such as labour, time and space make that an impossibility for most kitchens. “There is a lot of care and effort put into them; we usually make different sauces daily,” says Hannigan. “I wish we could make everything every day, but it’s all brought to the boil before service and seasoned with alcohol or vinegar to liven it up. It’s quite labour intensive, but they’re the fundamentals of a kitchen. Of all the things to put care into … having a good sauce is essential.”

Chancery Lane Head Chef Pak Tam knows a thing or two about sauce, with the culinary talent first coming across velouté during his time at cooking school in Hong Kong. “Over the last 25 years, I’ve learned from different teachers who have different principles on how to make the sauce,” says the chef. “But all of them follow the basics and then twist it to create something unique, which is what I enjoy doing now. I’ve made the mother sauce at different fine-dining restaurants over the years including pairing it with a braised lamb neck by [the late] Joel Robuchon and I did a chicken en vessel with a chef from Restaurant Paul Bocuse, who showed me how to make a truffle and chicken velouté. Velouté is such an important base in French cooking and is a very versatile sauce.”

It plays a key role in the restaurant’s blanquette de veau, otherwise known as a French veal stew, that traditionally sees the protein simmered in a white sauce and served in a sauce velouté amped up with cream and egg. Tam’s take on the dish sees two mother sauces combined together: bechamel and velouté. “The ingredients and method are quite basic, and it only takes around 20 minutes to make,” says the chef. “But velouté has a delicate and mild flavour, so it must be made with good-quality white stock. A good chicken stock is clear and amber in colour and has a light chicken flavour and sweetness from the mirepoix.”

The chef begins the process by melting butter over a medium–high heat before adding in flour until a blonde roux is achieved. Tam then adds one litre of warm white chicken stock to the roux, whisking to prevent lumps. “You must sieve the flour and not add it all in at once,” he says. The liquid is then brought to a simmer and cooked for 10–15 minutes.

Chancery Lane’s bechamel also begins with melting butter over a medium–high heat, with Tam sweating off onions and mushrooms and deglazing with white wine and Noilly Prat vermouth. “I reduce it to a low heat and then add the flour, whisking constantly before pouring the milk and the stock into the roux and seasoning with salt, white pepper and Dijon mustard,” he says. The sous vide veal and accompanying baby carrots are then reheated in the sauce before the dish is finished with a flurry of mint, tarragon, parsley and chives.

Mother sauces are ever-present in both modern and classic European restaurant settings, with chefs continuing to develop their saucing skills throughout their time in the kitchen — you’re never too old to learn something new (or old). ■

“They’re the fundamentals of a kitchen. Of all the things to put care into … having a good sauce is essential.”

– Billy Hannigan

Taking shape

Korean cuisine has been growing in popularity in Australia, and the next generation are about to take it further.

WORDS Amy Northcott

PHOTOGRAPHY Chip Mooney for Chae

KOREAN CUISINE HAS been shaped by the country’s rich history, abundance of natural produce and nuanced approach to creating complex flavour profiles. Many dishes are a result of slow, considered cooking, with chefs creating foundational ingredients such as doenjang or side dishes including kimchi from scratch — proof that good things take time. Here in Australia, Korean food has long been linked to barbecue, bibimbap or fried chicken. But there’s so much more for locals to discover once they delve a little deeper.

Hospitality speaks to Yoora Yoon of Chae restaurant in Melbourne along with Jowoon Oh and the team from the recently formed Kimchi Club about how the Korean food scene in Australia is evolving to showcase the dishes and flavours they grew up with.

Yoora Yoon and his wife Jung Eun Chae launched Chae in 2019. The restaurant was run from their apartment in Brunswick, Melbourne, before the couple relocated to the town of Cockatoo in Victoria. While there’s more room to ferment, the dining experience has remained capped at six seats.

The couple focus on giving guests an authentic Korean dining experience that provides a window into the diverse nature of Korean food. The menu changes every two months and is based on produce selected at the peak of its season. “Our cuisine sets itself apart by focusing on the relatively unknown aspects of Korean cuisine, specifically fermentation,” says Yoon. “Our menu is largely based around traditional techniques, which not only enhance the flavours and textures of ingredients, but also provide numerous health benefits.”

Chae and Yoon make their own condiments to craft their dishes from including gochujang (red pepper paste), doenjang (fermented soybean paste) and saeujeot (salted and fermented prawn or shrimp used for kimchi seasoning). The pair make the foundational products well in advance, with some requiring one year of fermentation before they’re able to be used. Past Chae dishes reflect the same notion, with kongguksu (noodles with cold soy milk broth), galbijjim (braised short rib) and gaeseong juak (makgeolli rice donuts) all featuring on the menu.

Chae has provided the couple with an opportunity to connect with the surrounding community and share dishes many people would have likely never tried before. “Korean cuisine

holds a special place in our hearts, conjuring up feelings of comfort and familiarity that remind us of our home and cultural heritage,” says Yoon. The launch of the in-house restaurant has also coincided with a rising interest from diners who are looking to explore Korean food beyond fried chicken and bibimbap. The couple use the term ‘hallyu’, which loosely translates to the Korean wave, to refer to the way in which Korean culture (music, TV, movies and food) has become more popular across the world. “Hallyu has played a role in promoting Korean culture and cuisine,” says Yoon. “People are also becoming more curious about Korean food and are seeking out authentic restaurants and dishes. Korean restaurants and food companies are now expanding their reach and are offering more Korean-style products from traditional dishes to fusion cuisine, making the food more accessible and appealing to a wider global audience.”

Over in Sydney, chefs Jowoon Oh (Osteria di Russo & Russo) and Kevin Jeon (ex-Tokki and Samasama), have recently started Kimchi Club to help raise the profile of Korean cuisine in Australia. “After a Korean ceramics event in November last year, many people in the hospitality industry [expressed interest],” says Oh. “So, I wanted to make a networking and collaboration page to connect chefs and people who are interested in Korean food and also introduce the new faces of Korean cuisine.”

Hallyu translates to the Korean wave

Korean cuisine often uses fermentation

Chae seats up to six people

Kimchi Club is planning more pop-up events

“Korean cuisine holds a special place in our hearts, conjuring up feelings of comfort and familiarity that remind us of our home and cultural heritage.”

– Yoora Yoon

Oh says the goal of the club is to showcase unique and modern Korean ingredients and dishes as well as support chefs by giving them a platform to demonstrate their culinary skills. Kimchi Club also aspires to be a resource for chefs to use to find information about Korean ingredients and cooking methods.

But it’s not just a social initiative, Kimchi Club doubles as a pop-up with chefs coming together to run limited events. The first, held at PS40 in Sydney last month, saw Korean chefs Jinsu ‘Steven’ Park (ex-Restaurant Leo), Taesung Jang (Ragazzi) and Byeong Jae ‘Daniel’ Kang (Lankan Filling Station) at Sydney’s PS40. The team ran two events, serving up a street-style menu they described as “reinvented Korean flavour snacks”. The menu included dishes such as gimbap, kingfish with minari and myeongi alongside kimchi tofu with bread and pork belly.

“Our first pop-up was a success and many people enjoyed it even though some of the dishes we showed were not well-known,” says Kang. “Pop-ups like this are an amazing opportunity to share new foods and cuisines to

the public,” adds Park. “Chefs are freer in terms of the flavours they can create through this kind of pop-up event.”

Ragazzi’s Jang agrees: “Chefs who are doing the pop-ups can share their thoughts, techniques and flavours,” he says. “In a short time, people can become motivated and have an interesting experience which they have not had before.”

Oh says there are plans for more pop-ups and events from Korean barbecue to finedining to reach a broader audience. “We would like to bring Korean food culture to different environments and settings, making it more accessible to a diverse group of people,” he says. “We will showcase the versatility of Korean cuisine by hosting events at different types of venues.”

Both Yoon and Oh agree the public’s demand for different styles of Korean venues will continue to grow. “The interest in healthy eating and fermented foods has never been higher since the pandemic, and Korean cuisine is known for being healthy and nutritious with a focus on fresh, whole ingredients and fermented foods that are high in probiotics,” says Yoon.

Wider access to Korean ingredients has also meant people can now incorporate dishes into their home cooking repertoire. “There are Korean supermarkets and grocery stores that sell ingredients and products, which makes it easier for people to cook Korean food at home,” says Oh. “I’m very surprised we can buy kimchi from Woolworths or Coles now!”

An open mind also goes a long way when it comes to expanding someone’s knowledge-- of a particular cuisine. “Australians are known for being adventurous when it comes to experiencing new cultures and cuisines,” says Yoon. “Korean food offers a unique and flavourful experience that is different from traditional Western cuisine.” ■

“We will showcase the versatility of Korean cuisine by hosting events at different types of venues.”

– Jowoon Oh

Take a seat

The wine bar is nothing new — but today’s rendition is.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

PHOTOGRAPHY Kitti Gould for Bar Lucia

A WINE BAR is a familiar concept to the dining public. It’s a place to drink far and wide from a menu that lists a handful of snacks and perhaps a plate of pasta for something a little more substantial. But the wine bars of today are very different to the original format, with fine-dining finesse repackaged into a format that prioritises good times and even better food.

Bar Copains in Surry Hills and Bar Lucia in Potts Point are two of the latest additions to the Sydney wine bar scene. Both welcome bookings and walk-ins, showcase minimal-intervention winemakers and have a snackheavy menu that requires a mandatory second (or third) visit.

Hospitality looks at the two city-dwellers, covering menu format, signature plates and how they are putting local drops front and centre.

Bar Copains

Bar Copains is brought to you by the whip team of Chefs Morgan McGlone and Nathan Sasi and Sali Sasi. The culinary talents have spearheaded some of the most recognisable venues in Sydney and beyond, with McGlone founding Belles Hot Chicken and Sasi opening Nomad before moving into the kitchens of Mercado and Leigh Street Wine Room in Adelaide.

The long-time friends decided to launch Bar Copains (French for friends) in Surry Hills. The venue opened its doors in December last year and is a cumulation of decades of culinary and business experience. It’s evident as soon as you walk in the door and take a seat in the slick dining room (or at the curved bar), and further illustrated by the extensive wine list and McGlone-made ceramics.

One of the defining aspects of the bar’s front dining room is its size — it’s compact in a good way. Round tables are flanked by stools and banquette seating and there’s a constant buzz and atmospheric hum that comes with a full space. Accents of green connect the bar to the dining room and bottles of wine are as decorative as they are educative. The small things at Copains contribute to the dining experience in a big way — a shelf for bottles flicks out from under the table and ceramic water vessels are cosied up with a tiny doily; oh-so cute.

On the food front, there’s a chef’s menu priced at $85pp or diners can take the à la carte route and stack up the snacks. The house focaccia is only available twice a week, and is a must-order. Marinated olives, fried padron peppers with sea salt and whipped cod’s roe served with a bowl of potato chips are all staple dishes, but the choux bun filled with comté custard and mustard has quickly become one of the most popular options followed by a slither of puff pastry topped with olive, onion and anchovy.

The menu moves into more substantial snack territory thereafter. Pig’s head fritti comes with a piquant-y sauce gribiche that can be finished off with any leftover focaccia. There’s also a plate of cured meats; crispy eggplant with tomato jam and salted ricotta; chicken liver parfait with brioche and summer tomatoes teamed with watermelon and goat’s curd. The King George whiting sandwich is a serious contender for top dish — an elevated take on the fast-food staple.

‘Mains’ are protein-centric, charting pipis with chorizo, sea blite and garlic toast; casarecce with cavolo nero pesto and stracciatella; BBQ Murray cod with corn and togarashi and Wagyu flank served with house condiments. One side is mandatory — the potato scallops with sour cream and chives are a throwback to the classic fish and chip shop staple executed on a whole new level.

There are three desserts at Copains, and one has been a front runner from the start: the amaro crème caramel. If custard isn’t your thing, there’s a mille feuille with rhubarb and custard or Cherry Ripe ice cream for a cold finish.

McGlone and Sasi are both avid wine collectors and have a cumulative cellar that’s got to be one of the most unique in Sydney. Christian Robertson is behind the list which spans many, many pages that largely lean towards the minimal-intervention category. From Chablis and Beaujolais to a section dedicated to rare bottles you’d be hard pressed to find anywhere else, Copains is a place for drinking well.

It’s also one where you can drop in for a glass of wine at 4pm on a Monday or sit down for a long lunch on Sunday. Open for walk-ins and bookings, Copains’ operating hours are a reflection of a more low-key business approach that allows people to eat and drink out of conventional hours. The venue is closed on Tuesday and Wednesday and is open till late every other day. The mural outside Copains reads “your friendly neighbourhood wine bar”, and it certainly delivers on the messaging. As McGlone aptly put it in a recent Instagram post: “We are not a restaurant, just a small wine bar serving wines we like to drink and food we love to eat”.

Bar Lucia

The Milpa Collective launched in 2017, with Founders Pablo Galindo Vargas and Liber Osorio creating the group with a mission in mind: to change the way Sydneysiders think about Mexican and Latin American cuisine. The pair have gone on to launch seven restaurants that are currently in operation, with their latest venue Bar Lucia taking the place of Casa Merida on Kellett Street in Potts Point.

Bar Lucia sits under Vina Collective, a sibling group of Milpa, and emblemises a new style of venue for Galindo Vargas and Osorio. Lucia is billed as a wine bar that offers Spanish-style tapas and a wine list that mainly showcases drops made by female winemakers. “It has been many months of discussions and planning,” they say. “It will be the next ‘pop in for a glass of wine’ hotspot.”

Mexican-born Alberto Palacios has taken on the role of head chef at the bar and has put together a menu that works for one guest or groups. Jamon Serrano and jamon Iberico are listed first on the menu for good reason and can be ordered with rye sourdough and cultivated butter. Olives naturally make an appearance as well as tuna tartare with Moroccan eggplant, cumin mayo and harissa.

Small plates cover seafood and other proteins such as oysters with Alta Alella cava mignonette; roasted scallops with saffron butter and ox tongue with salsa pintxo and salsa verde. There’s a section of the menu dedicated to one of the greatest snacks of all time: the croquette, with diners able to select from crab, jamon Serrano or spinach and Idiazabal cheese.

BBQ dishes have been having a moment for a while now, and Bar Lucia have a few options that dial up the char factor. Sardines are teamed with spicy mint and cucumber salsa, with an octopus plate served with black olives and red capsicum sauce. The aforementioned dishes are part of the larger plates section of the menu, which also lists Catalan-style cannelloni, roasted pork belly with Swiss chard and raisin sauce and a 150g MB9 Wagyu steak with Pedro Ximenez jus.

Kasia Sobiesiak is Bar Lucia’s head sommelier and also works as a wine writer and wine educator. She says the promotion of female winemakers is integral to her own philosophy,

creating Bar Lucia’s list according to the ethos. “Promoting female winemakers and supporting local wine regions is a priority for me,” says Sobiesiak. “I like to foster a balance between fine, modern classics, artisan and low-intervention leads.”

There are more than 50 wines available at Lucia, covering a range of varieties across bottle and glass. The wine menu is made up of drops almost exclusively produced by women in Australia as well as others from France, Italy and beyond — take Stephanie Toole’s Nero d’Avola or Corinna Wright’s Shiraz made in McLaren Vale, South Australia.

The beverage offering also includes cocktails spearheaded by Luna Ercoli, who focuses on implementing waste-minimising practices when it comes to drinks. “Learning from Jean Thinh from Alquimico has enhanced my knowledge on bar sustainability, which will be transferred to my time at Bar Lucia,” she says.

Ercoli has masterminded cocktails including Lucia’s Cheesecake, which sees the head bartender infuse vodka with cheesecake, homemade jam and blueberry shrub, while the Dos de Picas is a riff on a spritz and combines vodka with hazelnut cordial and ginger beer. In essence, there’s a drink and a snack for any patron — no matter their proclivity. ■

“Promoting female winemakers and supporting local wine regions is a priority for me.”

– Kasia Sobiesiak

Eggs and all

WORDS Amy Northcott

IT’S A QUESTION for every venue owner come April — to open or not to open across the Easter long weekend? Whether it’s a decision to do one day or operate as usual, people are around and looking for options during the break.

Hospitality speaks with chefs and operators about their menu plans and the perks of running service during Easter.

The Easter long weekend is always a busy time for Head Chef Paul Smart and his team at Marriott Gold Coast. Smart will host an array of events across Citrique and Chapter & Verse. “I’ve done a lot of Easter long weekends in my life, but this is my third one at Marriott and it’s getting bigger every year,” says the chef. “We have a lot of kids, especially during the school

holidays, so it’s all about chocolate eggs.”

On Good Friday, Easter Saturday and Easter Sunday, Smart and his team will run a high tea at Chapter & Verse along with Easter egg-making classes for children. “We have high tea every day and it is most popular on the weekend,” says Smart. “We’ll be doing an Easter chocolate-inspired high tea stand with traditional bits and pieces.”

The Easter egg classes are a tradition for the hotel, with past events so well received they’ve upped the frequency to include the week before the long weekend. “There’s so much interest and we sometimes have up to 40 kids in one class,” says Smart. “We show them how to mould an Easter egg and then they decorate it and take it home.”

How venues across the country plan to make the most of the Easter long weekend.

PHOTOGRAPHY Alana Dimou for Alma; Kate Shanasy for Guy Grossi

But the most significant event for Smart and his team is on Easter Sunday, with the venue’s annual Easter egg hunt taking place before a seafood buffet, which is also available on Good Friday. The seafood spread at Citrique is a celebration of Australia’s best, with Western Australia lobster thermidor a standout option. “There’s a big range of seafood, especially on the Friday ... more than we offer on the Saturday,” says Smart. “We have barramundi and salmon and people have plenty of fish to choose from. There’s also Mooloolaba prawns, Moreton Bay bug, Hervey Bay scallops and beautiful oysters from Tasmania — there’s more seafood than you can think of!”

Easter egg hunts and seafood-centric offerings are also on the cards for Sydney’s Chiswick. Good Friday kicks off with an egg hunt on the front lawn and a coffee cart with house-made pastries for adults to enjoy

Across the weekend, the team will be offering specials that lean into a seafood theme along with chocolate-centric dishes for dessert. “Eating fish instead of other types of meat on Good Friday is a tradition that has become synonymous with the Easter weekend for many,” says Chiswick Restaurant Manager Anna Zaganelli. “We are lucky to have incredible seafood in Sydney and there’s nothing better than fresh, locally and ethically sourced seafood. Our Head Chef Taylor Cullen really has a way with seafood dishes.”

Easter at home with Guy Grossi

What does your Easter long weekend look like?

Our family takes a few days off during this time and we usually head down to Queenscliff. On Good Friday, our table is a traditional Easter feast with no meat. We start with an assortment of seafood including local poached prawns, braised mussels in a rich tomato sauce, and on occasion, lobster. To accompany, we make a salad comprising carrots, peas, potatoes and mayonnaise. After this, we move on to a pasta course. I make a braised calamari ragu with tomato, parsley, onion and garlic with fettuccini. It is a dish my mum always used to cook. For the third course, we roast a big fish. To finish, we have a traditional Italian colomba. The dove-shaped cake is a culinary symbol of Easter in Italy featuring a rich, soft dough with a slightly chewy texture. Sunday lunch is completely different to Good Friday. Our table is filled with an assortment of meats including antipasti, duck and porcini tortellini, roast meats and vegetables.

Do you have any traditions across the long weekend?

On Good Friday, we fast until mass, which is followed by a late lunch at 2pm or 3pm. With the younger kids, we do a traditional Easter egg hunt. Easter eggs are hidden all throughout the town [Queenscliff] and the children discover the chocolate delights.

Do you have any must-have dishes on the menu for Easter?

Local poached prawns, colomba and the braised calamari ragu. One year I decided not to make it and it caused much chaos!

Hospo news straight to your inbox

For the latest hospitality news, subscribe to the weekly newsletter. And get yourself a free digital marketing guide!

Chiswick has opened during the Easter long weekend in previous years, with the restaurant enjoying the opportunity to be a part of the festivities. “Our Easter long weekend activity is a favourite amongst our community and is always really fun and well received by guests,” says Zaganelli. “There’s a great vibe and we know we’ve nailed it when we have lots of people here, considering how many leave Sydney for the weekend.”

When asked about the challenges associated with opening across the long weekend, Zaganelli notes that staff wages can be the reason some venues choose to close. “It can cost a business a fair bit of money, with staff wages increased to double time,” she says. “The risk of not making enough profit is probably why some venues choose to stay closed over the weekend.” In New South Wales, Victoria, the Northern Territory and Western Australia, the entire Easter long weekend is classified as a public holiday. In South Australia and Tasmania, Easter Sunday is not a public holiday, with Tasmania also not classifying Easter Saturday as a holiday.

“Our Easter long weekend activity is a favourite amongst our community and is always really fun and well received by our guests.”

– Anna Zaganelli

Jack Leary from Avalon’s Alma Restaurant and Bar and Freshwater’s St Alma in Sydney plans to open both venues from Friday to Sunday. “We find a lot of outof-towners come to Avalon during Easter, so people try us for the first time over that period,” he says. “Freshwater isn’t as much of a holiday destination, but everyone tries to stay local to the beach, so we’re super busy during the day, which is great.”

While the Mexican-influenced venues are already known for their seafood-heavy menus, there will be an extra push via specials. “We just try to play off local ingredients and what Australians base Easter off and then integrate Mexican ingredients into that,” says Leary. Expect to see New South Wales Eastern Rock lobster al pastor along with a Mexican Ibarra chocolate soufflé with black peppercorn ice cream.

It’s clear the core aim across the long weekend is to help guests create memories with friends and family. “We hope that in spending Easter with us at Chiswick, people will feel that they’re at home,” says Zaganelli. “We have a really strong local community and love organising events that encourage people to get together with loved ones. It’s one of our favourite times of the year.”

Smart agrees the weekend is a special time and hopes patrons “will make memorable moments”. While for Leary and his team, it’s about bringing a taste of home to guests. “We want them to feel as though they are visiting a relative’s house,” he says. “Our staff treat both venues like an extended version of their home and we enjoy and love these types of events because it gives us the opportunity to make people feel warm and welcome.” ■

“We love these types of events because it gives us the opportunity to make people feel warm and welcome.”

– Jack Leary

Used for fermentation and storage purposes

Onggi

The clay pots are a foundational element of Korean cuisine.

Used to make gochujang, doenjang, soy sauce, kimchi and fermented fish

Available in multiple sizes: danji (small), hangari (medium) and dok (large)

Firing process results in tiny holes, allowing ingredients to breathe

Onggi means ‘earthenware’ and includes pottery, tableware and tools made from clay

Should be washed with water and left to dry overnight

Made from clay

Traced back to 4000 BCE

ESSENCE OF EVOLUTION MODULAR SERIES

Stoddart has built on the existing partnership with Giorik to utilise research & development to produce the unique, one of a kind, European styled modular 700 & 900 series cooking equipment to Australian Standards, delivering, efficiency, safety and reliability.

Giorik’s class leading, European design and engineering have been operating in the professional food service equipment industry since 1963.

Meeting the various needs of the global market,

Dan McBride

WHAT’S THE APPEAL behind launching venues in Sydney’s Inner West? This one’s easy. We do Inner West venues because we live there and we love the neighbourhoods, the food and the people — it’s just the best. The Sunshine Inn, The Little Guy and Enmore Country Club share warm service and great products. The Sunshine Inn is a restaurant and bar whereas Enmore Country Club and The Little Guy are both neighbourhood bars.

The branding for Enmore Country Club was a collaboration between me, Dynn Szmulewicz and Zachary Godbolt [Creative Director of Doom Juice]. We’ve always loved Zach’s graphic design work. He’s been working on the graphic design of our venues for many years now and is also a close friend. We wanted to create

something that felt retro, but didn’t hit you over the head. We like the tongue-in-cheek ‘country club’ vibe, but strive for inclusivity rather than exclusivity.

The inspiration behind the drinks is again vaguely ’70s and retro-inspired with a heavy focus on drinkability and fun. We go Australian products where we can and stock local beers and plenty of natural wine. There’s a couple of light bar snacks such as seasonal cheeses and olives plus the Country Club sandwiches. The Sunshine Inn’s Head Chef Lizzie Tillett came up with the recipes and they’re made at a chicken shop a few doors down.

We hope our guests feel welcome and have a good time when they come to our venues. We really try to have something

for everyone. It can be a quick drink or something you can sit on for a while, but it also means [catering to] all types of palates and tastes. Whether it’s a cheap tinnie, a cold tap beer, a nice wine or a niche cocktail, we try and consider it all when we build our drinks lists and food offerings.

Good neighbourhood bars are the backbone of the hospitality industry. Everyone loves a local watering hole and it’s nice to go somewhere and be treated like you are valued. In big venues, I think that can occasionally get lost a little. There is also something authentic about neighbourhood wine bars. There is always a person behind them who has done their time in the industry and is branching out and having a crack at doing their own thing. ■

Dan McBride

The face behind some of Sydney’s most-loved venues on what makes neighbourhood bars the lifeblood of a city.

PHOTOGRAPHY Angus Bell Young

Hostplus is a top-performing super fund that puts members first. That’s why we’re proud to have been named the 2023 Fund of the Year by third-party ratings agency SuperRatings. Judged across three areas: strong performance, competitive fees, and an ongoing focus on members, we’re thrilled to receive this recognition.

The rating is issued by SuperRatings Pty Ltd ABN 95 100 192 283 AFSL 311880 (SuperRatings). Ratings are general advice only and have been prepared without taking account of your objectives, financial situation or needs. Consider your personal circumstances, read the product disclosure statement and seek independent financial advice before investing. The rating and awards are not recommendation to purchase, sell or hold any product and are only one factor to be taken into account when choosing a super fund. Past performance information is not indicative of future performance. Ratings are subject to change without notice and SuperRatings assumes no obligation to update. SuperRatings uses objective criteria and receives a fee for publishing awards. Visit www.lonsec.com.au/superfund/ratings-and-awards/ for ratings information and to access the full report. © 2022 SuperRatings. All rights reserved. General advice only. Consider the relevant Hostplus PDS and TMD at hostplus.com.au and your objectives, financial situation and needs, which have not been accounted for. Awards and ratings are only one factor to consider. Host-Plus Pty Limited ABN 79 008 634 704, AFSL 244392 trustee for Hostplus Superannuation Fund, ABN 68 657 495 890. HP2387