NO.753 MAY 2019
SOCIAL ENTERPRISE BUSINESSES • WHY MILK IS MAKE OR BREAK • ARTHUR RESTAURANT
CONTENTS // May
Contents MAY 2019
12
Regulars 5 // IN FOCUS Meet the woman changing the way chefs dress in the kitchen. 6 // NEWS The latest in openings, books, events and more. 8 // PRODUCE A look at shiso. 10 // COLUMN Saskia Beer’s battle with brand leveraging.
16
12 // BUSINESS PROFILE How Arthur is changing Sydney’s dining landscape. 16 // DRINKS Why dairy isn’t the enemy. 24 // BEHIND THE SCENES How to make Ol’ School’s fish and chips.
18
Features 18 // SOCIAL ENTERPRISE Businesses are giving back to the communities they operate within. 22 // WAREWASHING Choosing the right washer can increase productivity.
25 // EQUIPMENT Why the right paddle grater is your secret weapon in the kitchen. 26 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Alejandro Cancino from Lola’s Pantry.
11 // BEST PRACTICE Commune Group’s Simon Blacher on branding.
May 2019 | 3
EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello
Social
Keep up with the Hospitality team
CHEERS! Enjoying a glass of Taittinger at the Court of Master Sommelier’s Sydney graduation ceremony. @madeline.woolway
Think small
BANH XEO BAR Roast pork shoulder banh mi with Ben’s pâte, herbs, pickled carrot, mayo and chili is always a winner in my books. @annabellecloros
THE DINING PUBLIC has developed a
new, Arthur’s take is more casual and
penchant for choice, with the proverb
emulates the experience of dining out with
‘the bigger, the better’ reverberating
friends, where you end up with a range of
throughout the industry. Personally, I believe
dishes on the table.
the enjoyment of going out for a meal has
Have you been to a restaurant or bought
become a little lost in the midst of sprawling
a food product that doubles as a social
food precincts and DIY concepts.
enterprise? Madeline Woolway talks to the
But there’s a group of venues doing
brains behind The Bread & Butter Project and
things differently in the era of choice. This
Charcoal Lane about how they’re helping the
issue, I interviewed Tristan Rosier, chef and
community and addressing the skills shortage
owner of Sydney’s Arthur restaurant. The
while running successful businesses.
restaurant has been making a name for itself thanks to its set-up which forgoes a
Until next time,
la carte and offers a set menu only. While
Annabelle Cloros
chef menus and degustations are nothing
Editor
NEW DIRECTION Mamasita’s head chef Martin Zozaya has been busy revamping the menu. Pictured is the Acapulco tostada. @hospitalitymagazine
Follow us @hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine
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4 | Hospitality
IN FOCUS // Uniforms
Maxine Thompson
Tailor made
Female uniforms are in the spotlight thanks to chef and designer Maxine Thompson. WORDS Annabelle Cloros
MAXINE THOMPSON HAS
immediately noticed a
worked as a chef in New York
difference. “I walked out to
in Australia, but there was one
speak to people and when I
issue that just wouldn’t quit —
came back into the kitchen the
her uniform. Standard issue chef
other chefs were like, ‘Wow you
pants are often one size fits all,
seem like a totally different
which doesn’t work for a lot of
person today; you’re working
people, especially women, so
so much better’. I felt more
Thompson decided to tackle
confident in the way I looked and
the problem head-on with the
it came through in my cooking.
launch of PolkaPants.
If you feel comfortable in what
The culinary industry is constantly changing, so why shouldn’t the same notion apply
you’re wearing, you’re going to be a lot more productive.” There are a number of design
to uniforms? When Thompson
components that set PolkaPants
was running dishes from the
apart from the competition.
kitchen to the floor during
First, the pants are high-waisted,
her time at Ethos restaurant
which is a flattering and
in Tasmania, her uniform
practical cut for women in the
would easily catch on pieces
kitchen. Chefs are able to bend
of furniture, and by the time
down or reach up without having
she made it to the diner, her
to worry about flashing any skin.
confidence was lacking. “We
“They also come in cropped,
had to talk about the process
so people can show off their
print, which are a firm departure
behind each dish and I found
patterned socks, or longer if
from the norm. “People are really
including Analiese Gregory from
it so uncomfortable,” she says.
restaurants are concerned about
enjoying the prints because
Franklin and Ruth Rogers from
“The pants would get hooked on
workers covering their ankles,”
it can bring some of your
The River Café as fans, and
tables as we were running past
says Thompson. “They also have
personality into the kitchen — it’s
there’s plenty more to come.
or they’d roll down and you’d
belt loops on the back so you
nice to have an element of fun
“We’re doing a collaboration
trip — it was so impractical. They
can hook a dish cloth and there’s
in your uniform,” says Thompson.
with Worktones and another with
weren’t designed to fit the body
a pocket at the back for spoons,
The pants are made from 97
a US label which will be out in
of a female.”
notepads or phones.”
per cent cotton and 3 per cent
spring,” says Thompson. “People
elastane instead of polyster,
are excited there’s something
After Thompson designed
PolkaPants come in a range
The brand counts chefs
and produced the first pair
of colours and patterns such as
which isn’t as durable and
specifically designed for workers
of PolkaPants, her colleagues
houndstooth, leopard and cherry
contributes to overheating.
in the industry.” ■ May 2019 | 5
NEWS // Entrée
Entrée
Single-origin perilla oil Table 181 supplies some of Sydney’s best restaurants with artisan Korean ingredients, and the team has
The latest openings, books, events and more.
recently added perilla oil from Jirisan Jeollanam-do, South Korea, to the
EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros
fold. Raw perilla seeds are coldpressed, resulting in notes of tea and nuts. Table 181’s Paul Lee says the oil is well-rounded and coats the entire palate, creating a lingering flavour. Available in 50ml and 160ml. table181australia.moonfruit.com
Got the blues Sttoke is celebrating their first birthday with the launch of a magnetic blue cup. The reusable cups are made from shatter-proof stainless steel and feature double-walled vacuum insulation to ensure optimum beverage temperature. The colourway is available from 15 May at leading cafes and retailers. RRP $39.95. sttoke.com
Breakfast hacks Chefs Eat Breakfast Too Darren Purchese $29.99; Hardie Grant Books Chef Darren Purchese has released the pro’s guide to starting the day right with his book, Chefs Eat Breakfast Too.
Lover Latte launches
Covering sweet and savoury applications, recipes include chicken congee with crispy doughnuts, chocolate streusel brioche, the perfect omelette and crumpets. hardiegrant.com/au
Sydney-based beverage company Lover Latte has debuted a range made from natural ingredients, with flavours including Earthy Beets, Mighty Matcha, Boosted Spirulina and Golden Turmeric. The flavours are available in café-friendly pump-serve recyclable packaging and can be purchased directly or through the Hum platform. loverlatte.com.au
Nighthawk’s new menu Nighthawk Diner has unveiled a revamped menu which revolves around modern American diner food. Owner and executive chef Alistair Fogg and his team have added a sandwich selection to the Chippendale eatery’s menu including Chicago Italian beef with giardiniera and Nighthawk sauce and potato katsu with curry sauce and cucumber furikake slaw. Cauliflower tacos and a range of salads have also been added to the roster. thenighthawk.com.au 6 | Hospitality
NEWS // Entrée
Angus & Bon do breakfast Melbourne restaurant Angus & Bon are now serving breakfast, with the menu inspired by their chefs. Dishes include a bacon sandwich with HP sauce, miso mackerel with radicchio, apple and yuzu and maple banana bread with mascarpone and walnuts. There’s also a full Angus & Bon breakfast on offer with pork sausage, smoked bacon, black pudding, ham hock beans, poached eggs, duck fat potato hash brown, tomato, wild mushrooms and Q le Baker country loaf — but there’s a smaller version available for those with a smaller appetite. angusandbon.com.au
StrangeLove launch low-cal sodas StrangeLove has released a range of low-calorie sodas made with premium ingredients and minimal sugar. There are seven flavours in the collection including double ginger, yuzu, lemon squash and smoked cola. “Flavour comes first for us, so it’s not a health drink that tastes good, but a delicious drink that happens to be better for you,” says co-founder James Bruce. Available through distributors and select retailers. strangelove.com.au
Cointreau x Design Laboratory Cointreau has collaborated with Design Laboratory in London to release a limited edition bottle. The design has been influenced by orange groves and features etched oranges, ribbed leaves and coiled roots across the bottle. The cap has also been reimagined, with orange replacing copper. The bottles are available for $50 at BWS and independent retailers.
Autumn at Supernormal Andrew McConnell’s Supernormal has unveiled a raft of dishes to usher in the cooler weather. Salmon roe with uni and seasoned koshihikari rice joins off-menu ramen with prawn and chicken dumplings, which is limited to 20 serves per day Monday to Friday. Steamed flathead with Shanghainese wine and dill and fig leaf panna cotta with blackberry and fig syrup round out the new additions. supernormal.net.au
May 2019 | 7
PRODUCE // Shiso
Flower heads can be mixed with soy sauce to make a condiment
Flavour is described as a combination of basil, mint and fennel Purple shiso has a slightly wrinkled appearance
Shiso The serrated leaf is a popular herb used across a range of Asian cuisines. WORDS Annabelle Cloros ILLUSTRATIONS Elena Fombertaux
Origins
purple shiso. Shiso plants are self-seeding, so
germinated sprouts (mejiso) are used as a
Shiso is a variety of the Perilla frutescens that
flower heads should be cut off as they form
garnish and the leaves are combined with
originated in China and India. The herb was
to ensure leaves continue to grow.
vinegar to dye umeboshi (fermented plums)
introduced to Japan around the 7-8th century
red. Green shiso is commonly consumed fresh
and has also become prominent in Korea,
Flavour profile and appearance
in salads, meat and vegetable dishes or with
which has the highest cultivation. Shiso
There are two main varieties of shiso — purple
sashimi. The leaves can be battered to make
was introduced to the western world as an
(akajiso) and green. Purple shiso leaves have
tempura and are commonly added to noodle
ornamental plant, but is considered invasive
serrated edges and are slightly wrinkled.
and tofu dishes to add depth of flavour.
in some parts of the United States.
Purple shiso has a strong, bitter flavour and
At Sokyo in Sydney, the restaurant has an
is not palatable raw, but can be pickled,
umeboshi cucumber shiso roll on the menu
Growing conditions and harvest
cooked, used as a garnish or brewed as
along with a dish showcasing scallop, pickled
Shiso seeds should be kept at room
a tea. Green shiso leaves have serrated
pumpkin, aonori and bacon crumb and white
temperature and soaked before planting.
edges and grow between 4-12cm long and
sesame shiso dressing.
Although shiso are fast-growing plants, they
2.5-10cm wide. The flavour profile can be
can be difficult to germinate. Seeds require
described as a combination of mint, fennel
Storage
six to eight hours of natural light a day,
and basil, with fresh leaves used in a range
Shiso seeds have a short shelf life and last
sufficient moisture and cool temperatures,
of culinary applications.
for less than one year when kept at room
which help germination occur within a few
temperature, but refrigeration can improve
weeks. Harvest differs according to location
Culinary uses
longevity. Once the leaves have been
and the part of the plant being harvested
Purple and green shiso is prominent across
harvested, they should be stored in a sealed
(sprouts, seeds, leaves), but can begin once
Japanese cuisine and mainly used for
container between 1-7 degrees Celsius.
the first true leaf has grown for green shiso
savoury applications. Purple shiso seed
Leaves should be consumed within 10 days as
and after two true leaves have grown for
pods are preserved in salt to create a spice,
they dry out quickly and lose flavour. â–
8 | Hospitality
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“A fabulous forum for people in the industry” – Trudi Yip, Numeric Eight HOSTED BY
INTERESTED IN SPONSORING THE SUMMIT? Contact Vince Lam: 02 8586 6163 E: vlam@intermedia.com.au
COLUMN // Saskia Beer
Fowl play Whether it’s a case of mistaken identity or a ploy to boost profits, misusing premium brand names is rife in the industry. WORDS Saskia Beer I WOULD LIKE to talk about a
fairness, sometimes the chef is
but a simple phone call often
and received no response. I
problem that affects so many
not aware they are misleading
clears these matters up. Most
contacted both the chef and
food producers and food
the public. A few years ago, a
times, the businesses are very
management. No response.
brands in Australia — people
company in New South Wales was
apologetic about the situation.
appropriating your name on their
selling 700 buffet frames a week
There are a lot more cases
menus when they are not buying
(off 1.3kg birds) labelled as Saskia
where companies or chefs have
on social media. I had done my
the product.
Beer to an unknowing business
intentionally misappropriated
due diligence and checked with
My business produces free-
The outcome of this tale is that we decided to out the issue
for years. Once the business
my brand and have not desisted
any potential distributors or
range chooks, pheasants,
was made aware, the reaction
after repeated contact. The cost
retailers that could possibly be
turkeys, geese, guineafowl and
was swift and we supplied them
of legal action is prohibitive, and
supplying this outlet. I contacted
Berkshire pork under the Saskia
directly for the remaining 10
so the problem continues.
the restaurant several more
Beer brand and The Black Pig
weeks of the menu rotation.
brand. Over the years, I have
In this case, the meat
In another instance, a
times to give them the chance to
restaurant listed Saskia Beer
explain. The day after our social
seen my name on more menus
wholesaler was fraudulently
spatchcock on their menu — I
media post, I received a letter
than I care to count. If I had
putting labels on the product
don’t grow spatchcock! I rang
of apology saying there had not
sold as many chickens as those
and selling it to the catering
the restaurant, giving them
been time to check the press
restaurants could have taken, I
company commissioned by the
the benefit of the doubt, but a
release in the lead up to the
would be a very happy woman.
business under false pretence
disinterested manager informed
restaurant opening.
But in some cases, I would be
and with intent to make money
me they never had Saskia Beer
unhappy, as the restaurants
through deception.
spatchcock on the menu. Of
hospitality, I know from personal
course I felt compelled to assure
experience how important it
changing jobs and new chefs not
him I was well aware of that! He
is to check everything. It is not
bothering to change the menu.
requested a copy of their own
just my name on the line — it is
We accept it is usually a mistake,
PR article to which I obliged
yours, too. ■
using my name are not ones I want my brand associated with. Brand appropriation happens in a number of ways, and in 10 | Hospitality
There are often cases of chefs
To everyone on all sides of
BEST PRACTICE // Brand identity
How to build a brand identity Commune Group co-founder Simon Blacher’s advice on how to develop a cohesive, yet flexible brand. WORDS Simon Blacher BUILDING A BRAND is about providing a unique and memorable
Audience identification
experience from the food, drinks, service, lighting and music
You can’t please everyone. Identify your target market and build your brand
to the paper selected for the menus and the language used to
with them in mind. When you try to please everyone, your product and
describe a venue. Every element needs to be carefully considered
experience will become vanilla.
when thinking about how it will tell your overall brand story. At Commune Group, we maintain a strong identifiable brand
Our brand has gone through an interesting time in hospitality and more specifically hospitality marketing. We first started Hanoi Hannah eight years
by consistently working and focusing on the overall customer
ago when online publications had only just started gaining momentum. These
experience. Providing a great experience builds brand loyalty,
days, the proliferation of the digital space and social media can definitely aid in
and through brand loyalty comes the ability to grow and diversify.
building a strong brand identity. But it can be a slippery slope if you dive too far into the social media bubble — it can skew your perspective and can force you
PR and social media
to deviate from your core brand values. It’s important to remember the reason
You can’t hide behind PR and Instagrammable neon signs for
why you started and that should always be your motivator and driving force. ■
too long — the consumer will always seek out a good product and that’s what they’ll remember. Hard work will put you in a good place where customers trust your product, which gives you the freedom to move between cuisines and unique offerings.
Group identity Introducing the umbrella brand Commune helped define our culture. It’s young, dynamic and inclusive. Our approach will always be about ‘having a crack’. The group’s identity is bound in this philosophy rather than a set of rules, and that’s how we continue to back ourselves with different concepts across hospitality. Over the years, we have also used alliterative names to align with our branding from Tokyo Tina and Hanoi Hannah to our Australian Open pop-up restaurant Beijing Betty and the nowclosed Saigon Sally. We felt this was a great way for the public to identify with our brand across multiple cuisines, while staying true to our dynamic and playful persona. Having a trusted brand can also help you move in a new direction. While we were known for high-volume, turntables, Asian-disco dining, we were able to build a completely different space and experience by opening Neptune wine bar.
Conceptualisation While nailing branding in hospitality is important, there is a danger of overthinking and over-conceptualising your brand. Defining who you are too early can become problematic and act as a roadblock when you decide to take things in a new direction. My best piece of advice is to be malleable, to bend but not break and to work in a way that lets your branding evolve with demand and move with the times. There’s a difference between changing who you are and adapting. May 2019 | 11
BUSINESS PROFILE // Arthur TRISTAN ROSIER QUIETLY opened
Arthur in October 2018, and news has
quickly spread of the 35-seat restaurant
that only serves a set menu. After 15 years
cooking at restaurants including Biota, est., Farmhouse Kings Cross and Dead Ringer,
Rosier was ready to leave the security of a head chef role and go it alone.
However, Rosier is doing things
differently — not just by forgoing a la
carte — but breaking down the barriers between front and back of house,
championing Australian produce and
beverages and making a conscious effort
to foster creativity in the kitchen. In other words, Rosier is part of a new generation of business owners who are just as
interested in their staff as they are about the food on a plate.
It took two years before Rosier and his
partner Rebecca Fanning locked in a site for Arthur. The pair were one day away
from signing a lease on a site in Enmore, but had to pull the pin after the landlord failed to divulge crucial information. “There was some construction going
on upstairs that would have delayed us getting approval to trade for about six
Arthur
Tristan Rosier
months,” says Rosier. “We needed to take legal action against the landlord to get our deposit back.” Rosier and Fanning
persevered and eventually found a venue in a heritage-listed building on Bourke Street, Surry Hills.
Leaving the safety net of being
someone’s employee to open a business is
Modern Australian and open kitchen are terms thrown around loosely in the industry, but Tristan Rosier is putting his money where his mouth is.
a huge leap, no matter what industry you
WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY LYHT — Damian Flanagan
lot on the job — like how to cook — the
12 | Hospitality
work in. Rosier spent years cooking dishes for other people, and while he learned a
lessons on what not to do stuck. “During the latter part of my career, I was in
control of knowing how to cook but I was
observing the mistakes chefs and business owners made and thinking about how to
do things better,” he says. “Working in fine dining, you learn attention to detail and
how to push yourself beyond your limits,
but you’re also learning what not to do in
terms of how to talk to people and handle complaints and how you treat your staff
Most restaurants offer an a la carte
and suppliers.”
menu alongside a banquet or tasting
of Arthur were two-fold: creative and
different, despite the naysayers. “There
The core motivators for the launch
financial. On the creative front, there are strict budgets and dealing with
management, who have the final say on what makes the menu. “I was a head
chef in a few restaurants, and no matter how much freedom they think they can
menu, but Rosier wanted to do something were a lot of people asking why we
were doing a set menu, but working at
Farmhouse for five years, I saw how well a
set menu restaurant can run and function,” says Rosier.
The chef is quick to point out
relinquish or how much they say they want
his 10-course set menu is far from
it’s their vision,” says Rosier. “After a while
a communal dining experience. “A
you to develop a menu for their restaurant, it becomes frustrating, and as a chef, in
some scenarios you know better.” A similar
notion applies to financial decisions. Rosier doesn’t have to worry about making a
case to management to buy a new piece
of equipment or spending extra dosh on ingredients. “I set my own targets,” he
says. “If I want a piece of equipment, I go and buy it. But it’s more about creating a product I’m happy with.”
After working in small and
large businesses for 15 years, it’s
understandable to want a piece of the
pie at some point. Rosier wanted to keep Arthur small so he could take a fair cut. “If I’m going to put in the hard work, I
want the benefit,” he says. “I think small restaurants should have one or two
owners. When you have multiple owners and have to employ chefs and managers, there’s not enough money to go around. Financially, it was a good decision.”
a degustation and instead mimics
degustation is usually highly priced, smaller portions, heaps of courses and you’re there for three to four hours,” says Rosier. “Our set menu has roughly 10 dishes, but we
serve them two at a time. It’s like going to a restaurant with a couple of friends and ordering a few different dishes.”
While many venues claim to be modern
Australian restaurants, the term is
embedded in Arthur’s fabric. Rosier isn’t just chucking in a few native ingredients here
and there, the ingredients are all Australian and the notion extends beyond food to
the beverage list and the way Rosier runs
Arthur’s
Rosier adds
set menu is
new dishes
priced at $70
every two
for 10 courses
weeks
You can
The restaurant
buy Arthur’s
runs their own
sourdough
social media
for $10 a loaf
accounts
the restaurant. “We are endeavouring on an Australian cuisine and it means a lot
of things,” says the chef. “The ingredients
are all Australian, our wine list, spirits and soft drinks are Australian and we have an Australian culture [in the workplace]. We
never yell, we never bollock anyone and we have a good work–life balance.”
May 2019 | 13
BUSINESS PROFILE // Arthur
House-made sourdough with cultured butter
BUSINESS PROFILE // Arthur
“For many years, I was cooking for a piece of paper on a docket rail. That’s not why you should be cooking — you should be cooking for the customer.” – Tristan Rosier There are a number of benefits that come
dishes to diners when he conceptualised
you’re passionate about making every one
chef creativity and maximum productivity
between chef and diner has been lost in
lose traction. I’m vigilant of watching the
with offering a set menu: minimal waste, are a few motivators that spring to mind.
“Dead Ringer was such a fluid business and
I used to get frustrated because you’d spend most of your day preparing food that might not be ordered and it’s soul destroying; it’s hard to put love into food that might not
be ordered,” he says. “I wanted everything
Arthur, and says face-to-face interaction many establishments. “For many years, I was cooking for a piece of paper on a
docket rail,” he says. “That’s not why you
should be cooking — you should be cooking for the customer. When you interact with
them, you see their eyes light up and they
perfect but then a few weeks later, you
quality of the produce coming out and the dish comes off once the passion dies off.
“If I change two dishes tomorrow, my chefs
will be here an hour earlier because they’re excited to make it perfect.”
ask questions; it’s a different currency.”
Rosier has food and service down-pat, but
ordering, you don’t waste anything and we
Rosier takes his role as a business owner
took some getting used to. Throw in the
such as fish carcasses which we age and
in developing the team around him and
I prepared that day to be sold. It’s easier for can save certain ingredients for other dishes make stock from.”
The format has not only changed the way
chefs prep food, but the method of service.
There’s no docket printer in the kitchen and the design of the restaurant is completely
open, removing the barriers between chefs and front of house. “We only have 10–11
staff members including me and we wanted
seriously. The chef has a vested interest creating an environment that fosters
creativity. “I want to be a mentor, teach
people, get them excited about food and
make them think on their own,” says Rosier. “The next generation will be better than
mine because they had people like me who
trained them to think openly and creatively.” Arthur changes up the menu according
the business side of opening a restaurant fatigue of working seven days a week
and pressure to launch a venue in Sydney and you’ve got yourself a hefty challenge. But the chef looks at his first six months in business as a learning curve. “I spent 15 years learning how to cook, clean a
kitchen and write a menu, but it’s patchy in the beginning when you’re trying to
be creative and doing all the accounting
stuff and making sure you have the right
it to be fluid where everyone helps,” says
to seasonality and appeasing regular
with food prep and chefs will do wine
the dining public. “Chefs get bored of
but Rosier and his team are running a
the quality slips a little bit,” says Rosier.
Sustainable? Yes. Collaborative? Yes.
Rosier. “Sometimes the floor staff will help training. There’s a lot of cross-pollination
and it allows staff to appreciate every job has less-desirable parts.”
Rosier was adamant chefs would run
14 | Hospitality
customers, which benefits chefs and
cooking the same dishes and after a while “There’s the development stage where
you create it and put it on the menu and
insurance. I wouldn’t change it, though.” Arthur is still in the embryonic stages,
venue that’s backing up their claims. Changing the definition of modern Australian? Bloody oath. ■
Get more For the latest hospitality news, get our free e-newsletter at: hospitalitymagazine.com.au
OPENINGS • TRENDS • TECH • LEGISLATION • JOBS
DRINKS // Milk
Market Lane Photography by Amelia Habib
Got milk? When push comes to shove, what separates one milk from the other? WORDS Madeline Woolway
WANDERING DOWN THE milk aisle in
have more dry matter in their diet,
Sungold [milk], a fantastic product that
plethora of options. A memorable ad once
have a lot of green grass, the butter is
recipes. Bigger producers have access to
a grocery store, it’s easy to see there’s a asked, ‘low fat, no fat, full cream, high calcium, high protein, soy, light, skim,
the butter is usually paler. When they more yellow.”
The fat and protein content can also
omega 3, high calcium with vitamin D
fluctuate, with processing playing an
out, there’s much more to it than that —
homogenised product, you expect it to be the
and folate, or extra dollop?’ As it turns
especially when it comes to choosing the best option for foodservice.
“For milk to be called milk, you need to
have a minimum of 3.5 per cent fat, but you can put permeates, powders or add
has seasonal changes, you change your
more farms and they can do the work on their end.”
important role. “If you’re buying a super
There’s no wrong or right, just preference,
same all year round,” says Issa. “If you buy
The two key things to consider are fat and
unhomogenised milk, sometimes you have
a higher or lower fat content; it depends on how much dry matter the cows eat.”
at least when it comes to making coffee.
protein content. “The fat in milk tends to make the coffee taste a bit weaker,” says Scheltus. “If you have skim milk or low-
fat milk, they’re a bit more watery so the
things to it,” says Pierre Issa, owner of
Coffee roasters Market Lane source their
there has to be a minimum fat content of
Dairy, which is located three hours by
texturing milk through steaming. “The
Simon Schulz does, like pasteurising
Crowl. “That’s why Sungold and Country
Pepe Saya. “For cream to be called cream, 35 per cent, and they can load the rest up with permeates, powders, thickeners or whatever they want.”
Then there are the variations in cattle
breed and feed, as well as processing methods such as pasteurisation and
homogenisation to consider. Changes to any or all of these things will result in a
different end product, and not just when
it comes to the milk itself. Expectedly, the attributes of milk will affect derivatives
including cream, butter, buttermilk and crème frâiche to name a few.
“With natural cream, the colour of the
butter will change according to what the cows are eating,” says Issa. “When they 16 | Hospitality
milk from local producer Schulz Organic car from Melbourne. “Some of the things at very low temperatures and not
homogenising the milk, really contribute to
coffee tends to cut through and stand out.” Protein is important when it comes to
higher the protein, the silkier the froth,” says Valley make fantastic steamed milk.”
High fat and protein content may be a
the taste,” says co-founder Jason Scheltus.
plus for mouthfeel, but achieving the right
in his herd, whereas commercial dairies
an acidic coffee [high fat and protein], it
“He also has a generous mix of Jersey cows will have more Holstein Friesian. Jersey
cows tend to have more fat and sweetness in the milk, so it has a richer taste.”
Just as homogenisation can iron out
flavour is a balancing act. “If you have
probably won’t work,” says Crowl. “You
could get sour flavours coming through.” So, what’s a barista to do? “When we
variations, so too can the size of the
first tested, we had eight different milks
the greater the fluctuations,” says Sam
expensive milks, less expensive, bigger
producer. “The smaller the producer,
Crowl of Sydney-based gelateria and
café Cow and the Moon. “If you’re using
on the table: high protein, high fat, really companies,” says Crowl. “We ended up
falling in the middle because it matched
DRINKS // Milk
Gelato from Cow and the Moon
the coffee we were using and how we like the flavour profiles.”
For the Market Lane team, the
process was reversed, choosing their
don’t want anything too overpowering on the dairy front, we just want the flavours to shine through.”
When it comes to texture, Crowl
beans and ratios to suit the milk. “We
says fattier milks might create a great
Scheltus. “We did taste other milks, but
comes with a higher fat content is hard
started by approaching Simon,” says we preferred Schulz.”
When it comes to choosing milk, the
mouthfeel but the stronger flavour that to work with when making subtle gelato flavours such as panna cotta or vanilla.
practice of comparing multiple options
For Pepe Saya’s catalogue of products,
coffee cupping.
limitation on who he’ll source from, as
against others should be as common as “I think a lot of people don’t take it
seriously enough,” says Crowl. “If you
have a 220ml [coffee] beverage, 200ml is milk — that’s a big percentage.”
Considering milk coffees still make
up the majority of orders — Scheltus
estimates it to be around the 80 per cent mark — it’s well worth the effort. “We
sell a lot of milk coffee, so it’s important
to make sure it’s right for the customer,” he says. Ultimately, after sourcing the
right beans and getting the water quality right, milk should be the priority. While milk and cream are major
components of gelato, dairy flavours should not dominate. “With gelato,
we’re after a neutral taste and we adjust our recipes around it,” says Crowl. “We
milk is everything. Issa says there’s no long as it’s Australian milk that hasn’t
been altered. That means no supermarket creams loaded up with permeates,
powders and thickeners. “We’re looking
for the good stuff: minimum fat content
of 42 per cent with nothing else added,” he says. The higher fat content means a better yield, while milk solids in
powdered form and other additives will show up in the end product.
Rather than shy away from the
variations present in dairy from small
producers, Issa welcomes them. “As an
artisan butter-maker, the imperfections
are the perfections,” he says. “The colour of our butter changes and we get phone calls when the seasons change, but we
can explain why. They’re things we need to celebrate.” ■
May 2019 | 17
Charcoal Lane head chef Greg Hampton with students
FEATURE // Social enterprise
Social surplus Despite operating in an industry with notoriously tight margins, some hospitality businesses have decided to give back to communities by building purpose into their objective. WORDS Madeline Woolway HOSPITALITY AND SOCIAL enterprise
the business simultaneously empowers
enterprise],” he says. “It entitles you to
cliché as it might be, food has a habit of
tackling an industry-wide skills shortage.
government and other industries as well.”
could be a match made in heaven. As
bringing people together. Melbourne’s
refugees with employment pathways while
a range of subsidies and grants from the
Charcoal Lane and Sydney’s The Bread
Commercial strategies are implemented
While The Bread & Butter Project officially
of successful social enterprise models
and social impact. Unlike a charity, a
took two years to develop. Allam, his wife
& Butter Project are just two examples in action.
Founded in 2009, Charcoal Lane
operates under the umbrella of Mission Australia, a Christian charity. The onehatted restaurant’s raison d’etre is to
reduce labour force exclusion among
young Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people while providing a platform to share their culture through food.
The Bread & Butter Project was set up
by Bourke Street Bakery co-founders Paul
Allam and David McGuinness in 2013, and 18 | Hospitality
with a dual goal: maximising surplus social enterprise aims to cover most of its costs by generating a surplus
through commerce. And unlike a typical
corporation, 100 per cent of the surplus is reinvested into the business’ pursuit of its social goals.
According to The Bread & Butter Project
general manager Philip Hoban, launching a social enterprise is similar to opening a normal business. “The only difference is
you need to go through an approval process with the government [to register as a social
launched in 2013, the business model
Jessica Grynberg and McGuinness drew on their network of contacts to form a board, which provides direction and advice.
Hiring the right mix of commercially and socially oriented people is crucial, says Hoban. “You really need to be set up
properly. The biggest risk the business has taken is bringing me in because I
have no social background. But I’m here
to manage costs.” In his first five months as GM, Hoban has attended conferences
for ‘changemakers’ and has recognised an
great ideas but they don’t realise how important the commercial side is.”
the cost of putting one refugee through the program to about $50,000 per annum.
Charcoal Lane’s training program is just
A period of consulting with other
organisations was crucial when developing Charcoal Lane. “It was really developed
by the Victorian Aboriginal Health Service and Mission Australia,” says Troy Crellin, program manager social enterprise at
Mission Australia. “From a health services point of view, work plays a big role in
terms of our wellbeing and health. We
have a student board that advises us on
our programs and what we run and how we run them.”
Surplus isn’t a given, even when operating within a tight business plan. “Because
as rigorous. Feedback from students has
emphasised the importance of connecting young people with culture, so Mission
Australia’s program has been designed to
encompass more than technical hospitality
skills. “We do a four-week pre-employment program for anyone from the age of 16 to upwards of 30 years of age,” says Crellin.
Trainees are encouraged to develop pride
in culture and a sense of self. “There’s pride in our food, what we do and how we act
in the workplace,” says Crellin. “It’s about
months, it’s time to go into mainstream
like a lot, but we sell around $5.4 million worth of bread per annum, so, it’s only
the commercial side is.” – Philip Hoban
Charcoal Lane. “At the end of that six
employment,” says Crellin. “We’re probably the only employer that gets rid of our skilled staff.”
There are three intakes a year with
about six to seven per cent.”
around 30 students graduating. While the
business’ costs are taken into account.
trainers on-site, working alongside chefs
The gap is unsurprising when the
don’t realise how important
After the four-week stint, trainees
cash flow in our end of year results,” says of about $365,000 per annum. It sounds
these great ideas but they
to expect — it’s not like high school.”
undertake a six-month traineeship with
Hoban. “We have a gap at the moment
properly … People have all
unpacking what training is about and what
we fund so much of the trainee wages
ourselves, we tend to have a gap in our
“You really need to be set up
students move on, there are permanent
Trainees are paid slightly above the award rate while receiving training that covers the technical and theoretical aspects of
baking as well English language classes. All up, Hoban says the business equates
and front of house staff. “The role of the
trainers is to inform staff where the skills
of that young person are at,” says Crellin.
“If we didn’t do that, people would just be washing dishes and polishing glassware.
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FEATURE // Social enterprise
important trend. “People have all these
FEATURE // Social enterprise We don’t want that. We want to provide a pathway to employment.”
Mission Australia is a charitable
organisation, and while the restaurant sustains itself, the organisation seeks
financial support through charitable means to cover other costs. “Training young
people is a cost to Mission Australia,” says Crellin. “It’s something we have to raise capital for, but we’re on a pathway to
answers,” says Crellin. “Internally, we have a process we call impact measurement
that helps us meet our goals. We evaluate
young people when they enter the program
and then at two, four and six months so we
It costs $50,000
30 trainees
We need a third party to extrapolate the
per annum to
graduate
train one refugee
from
at The Bread &
Charcoal Lane
Butter Project
each year
26 graduates
Over 250 young
can record the impact on the individual.
data to show what we’re doing financially for the state and the community.”
becoming self-sustaining.”
Obtaining substantive quantitative data
Individual stories will pull at heart strings,
terms of our sales,” says Hoban. “We have
but data trumps anecdote when it comes to obtaining funding. Charcoal Lane and
The Bread & Butter Project are currently in the process of completing their first social return on investment (SROI), working
with third parties that specialise in impact measurement to develop a framework.
So far, The Bread & Butter Project has had two studies on its outcomes conducted, with almost all 26 graduate trainees
has a number of benefits. “The first is in
some phenomenal customers who are with us because of our story.” The story is what gives The Bread & Butter Project an edge
when competing in Sydney’s artisan bread market. “Then, there are the corporations who have their own corporate social
with auditors to develop measures for the
SROI so substantive and quantitative data can be attached to it.
Charcoal Lane has also commenced the
process of conducting an SROI. “We’ve got enough data from 10 years to get strong 20 | Hospitality
Charcoal Lane’s
employment
program
The same goes for government. While
through subsidies, grants and tax breaks,
require The Bread & Butter Project to work
now in full-time
to stay in partnership with us.”
of their children are in full-time education government subsidies.” The next stage will
been through
them this information, it encourages them
being registered as a social enterprise
and their families are completely off
people have
Butter Project are
responsibility,” says Hoban. “When we give
interviewed. “[The auditors] confirmed all 26 are in employment,” says Hoban. “All
from The Bread &
entitles a business to government funding none of these windfalls are guaranteed. “There are grants, but there isn’t an endless pot,” says Hoban.
Maintaining a profitable business in the
current climate is no mean feat, but The
Bread & Butter Project and Charcoal Lane are well on their way to becoming self-sustaining while achieving their social goals. ■
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FEATURE // Warewashers
Wash away your
troubles Are warewashers the unsung heroes of kitchen equipment?
IT’S NOT UNCOMMON to hear chefs
heat and water pressure. The steamers
gadgets. But what about the equipment
ensuring sterilisation.”
waxing lyrical about the latest and greatest that takes care of the dirty work? The right warewasher can increase productivity and boost efficiency across a business.
The Canterbury League Club in Sydney
recently underwent a $106 million
redevelopment. The venue now has a total of six Hobart washers including conveyer, conventional, pot and glass washers. “We
chose Hobart washers because they have a washer that suits each one of our kitchens and outlets and the machines are capable of performing in different areas,” says
general manager Greg Bygraves. “They all perform a different task with the highest
output and are incredibly reliable with the
are cleaned quickly at a high temperature,
Both New Shanghai and the Canterbury League Club considered a number
kitchen space, equipment, cutlery, table
• Pick the correct washing liquid for
warewashers including venue capacity,
and glassware. But Bygraves says pot and
conveyor washers deserve more attention. The flexible design of conveyor washers
makes them ideal for heavy-usage venues such as hotels, restaurants and large
canteens, while pot washers are perfect
for tackling cooking equipment of various sizes and shapes.
outlet in Sydney in 2009. The company
strategies. Chen says it’s important to
across Queensland, New South Wales and Victoria, and even has stores in Shanghai and Dubai. Unsurprisingly, the business
has a considerable turnaround of bamboo steamers, which require regular cleaning.
“At home, steamers are usually washed by
hand, but they are washed in dishwashers
alongside regular items at New Shanghai,”
most out of it comes down to a few key “use suitable commercial-grade washing
detergent; pick the correct washing liquid for glassware for a better result; schedule
maintenance to check the equipment, parts and all the connections and train staff on how to handle the equipment.” Bygraves agrees, and says scheduling regular
services and cleaning them daily is a must. Ultimately, there’s a plethora of options
says Chen. “Commercial dishwashers
available, so don’t forget to spend as much
damage the steamers by exerting too much
other pieces of equipment. ■
perform quicker and therefore do not
22 | Hospitality
Shanghai owner John Chen • Use suitable commercial-grade
No matter the warewasher, getting the
pumps out dumplings at eight venues
Here are some quick tips from New
of elements before choosing their
volume we put them through.”
John Chen opened the first New Shanghai
Get the most out of your warewasher
time researching warewashers as you do
washing detergent.
glassware to ensure better results. • Schedule maintenance to check the equipment, parts and all the connections. • Train staff on how to use the equipment.
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BEHIND THE SCENES // Fish and chips
Ol’ School’s
fish and chips An in-depth look at Hospitality’s video masterclass series.
NO DETAIL HAS been overlooked in the preparation
1
2
3
4
5
6
of Ol’ School’s fish and chips. Head chef and coowner of the Brisbane venue Jesse Stevens sources barramundi from a number of suppliers, but uses Cone Bay in the below recipe. Farmed in the sea, Cone Bay has a saltier flavour than pond-farmed barramundi. Stevens says tartare is a classic sauce that goes well with any fish, but the Ol’ School iteration uses yoghurt in place of mayonnaise, resulting in a tart, fresh sauce. Lemon zest provides maximum flavour without watering down the tartare. Last but not least, hand-cut potato chips are thrice-cooked. The chips are blanched in a vinegar and water brine before they are fried twice, creating chips that are crisp on the outside and fluffy on the inside.
Ingredients Fish Barramundi fillet
Chips Potatoes, cut by hand Vinegar Water
Tartare sauce Yoghurt Lemon zest Baby capers Finely diced cornichons Finely diced red onion Mustard Herbs, such as dill, parsley and tarragon
Method Pan fry barramundi skin-side down, ensuring the fish is kept flat on the grill. Once skin is crisp, move to the oven to finish cooking. While the fish is in the oven, mix all the tartare ingredients together well in a bowl. Cut the potatoes into chips, leaving the skins on. Blanch in a brine of vinegar and water before deepfrying at a high temperature, blistering the outer layer. Deep fry again before serving. Watch the full video at hospitalitymagazine.com.au
24 | Hospitality
The right paddle grater can make quick work of a range of ingredients from nutmeg and hard cheeses to citrus fruits. For the best leverage, hold The uniform hole size works well for small quantities of hard to semi-hard ingredients
The larger the
Handheld graters are
the grater at a 30-degree
surface area, the
good for shredding
angle against a benchtop
less effort required
into a receptacle
for grating
Dishwasher-safe Look for a handle
versions are available
with grip to ensure
and make cleaning
safe use
easier
Smaller holes suit products that require Medium-sized holes work
zesting, such as citrus
better for products such as
fruits and spices
hard cheeses and chocolate
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May 2019 | 25
EQUIPMENT // Grater
Grater
5 MINUTES WITH ... // Alejandro Cancino
Alejandro Cancino The awarded chef on veganism, opening a regional kitchen and fighting the industrial food complex. I BECAME VEGAN when I moved to
event, it would be plant-based. A year or
reality. Not long ago, I had a chat with
restaurant in Tokyo where I met someone
hats three years in a row. I had the awards
want to use canola oil anymore because
Australia. I previously worked in a
who introduced me to veganism. Back
then, I didn’t really understand why people would restrict all this beautiful food you
can have. I thought, ‘I’m a chef, I’ve done
so ago, I decided it was time. We got three and the reputation and it was time to do
what I really wanted, which was to focus
my energy and skills on plant-based dining. The environment is such a big thing
one of our suppliers and I said, ‘I don’t of what I’ve read about GMO’. He said
it was complete nonsense and explained why. I understand now that in South
Australia, where we get our canola oil,
this all my life, I can’t go vegan’. But the
and the impact of food is huge. Producing
became to ignore. After Tokyo, I went
population; you need grains, water and
because there is pressure to be perfect.
calories, when you could just eat the grain
lifetime of habits overnight. Everyone
more I read and watched, the harder it back to Argentina for a month and did
more research. I found no reason not to go vegan, it made sense in every way.
By the time I arrived in Australia, I was
conflicted. Should I go to a restaurant that serves meat and slowly try to veganise the menu while building a good reputation?
I went to Urbane and every time I did an 26 | Hospitality
meat is not an efficient way to feed a
land. It’s an inefficient way to produce
the animal was fed. It’s the industrial way we produce our food. We opened our
company, Fenn Foods, and venue, Lola’s Pantry, and we’re slowly changing that.
I try more and more to understand the
big picture and educate myself about the
GMO is banned.
Chefs walk away from the movement
You’re not going to change a whole
is on their own journey. Slowly, they’ll
change. When I left Urbane, it was hard for the first few months. Now, I’m glad
I made the move. It’s just the start. The
whole system will change and I’m proud to be a part of that. ■
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