DRINKS // Mezcal
Understanding mezcal History, culture and character combine to make mezcal a category worth exploring. WORDS Madeline Woolway PHOTOGRAPHY This is Mexico courtesy of Channel 10 DEPENDING ON THE species, a single
of work that goes into making a small
ground before it’s harvested, pulped,
promoted in society: it’s small batch and
agave can spend up to 35 years in the processed and distilled into mezcal.
But three and a half decades is nothing compared to the history of Mexico’s national spirit.
Spanning centuries, it’s the annals of
mezcal that make it a favourite among those behind some of Australia’s most successful Mexican venues including
La Tortilleria’s Gerardo Lopez and Los Hermanos’ Bruno Carreto.
“We’ve always talked about tequila
as the ambassador of Mexico, when, in
reality, it should be mezcal,” says Lopez. “The history goes back to before the Spaniards arrived.”
The opportunity to see production in
process captivated Carreto, who also co-
owns Benzina Cantina and operates a dark kitchen in Melbourne. “You realise how much care, attention and responsibility
goes into making mezcal,” he says. “And
also the intergenerational knowledge that
goes into producing the spirit. The amount 18 | Hospitality
amount of alcohol is everything that gets
ones who provide booze for weddings and quinceañeras.”
environmentally conscious.”
No two mezcals are the same: each is
mezcaleros (distillers) play in society.
production method. For this reason, the
Carreto also appreciates the role
“They’re really respected in the [local] community,” he says. “They’re the
the artefact of agave species, terroir and spirit parallels Mexico itself, with its diverse regions and cultures.
