BUSINESS INVESTIGATION
GOING ROGUE Have your clients gone Tik Tok crazy? Ruby Feneley talks to Dermatologist Dr. Cara McDonald and Dermal Therapist Yadira Galarza Cauchi about correcting online misinformation and dealing with clients’ complexion crises. MY FIRST SKINCARE misadventure happened at 14. I was short on funds and high on painful pimples when I read that Natalia Imbruglia treated her acne with toothpaste. A dollop of Colgate later and I had a constellation of chemical burns to complement my acne outbreak. Inadvisable skincare hacks are nothing new, but social media is now distributing them at a rapid rate. Meanwhile, digital creators chasing engagement and playing to algorithms are concocting beauty “shortcuts” that range from ineffective to downright dangerous. This year, Australian Big Brother contestant Tilly Whitfield went global for all the wrong reasons. In an event covered everywhere from Business Insider and The New York Times to LADbible and Cosmopolitan (any publicists’ dream), the reality star was hospitalised after following an at-home-Tik Tok beauty hack. Guided by a TikTok video Tilly performed DIY freckle tattooing using acupuncture needles and eyebrow dye purchased from eBay – the resulting infection caused a temporary loss of eyesight, severe facial swelling and permanent scarring. Unsuccessful attempts to correct the damage have cost her over $12,000. While this is an extreme example, Dr Cara McDonald says many clients land in her office after following advice on social media. Microneedling, peels and the mistreatment of subsequent skin reactions can be a slippery slope for skincare novices. She explains that while “some procedures like low-strength peels or very superficial micro-needling can be safe to perform at home, clients don’t necessarily understand infection controls or the intensity of the products they’re using. “ She adds: “I would only ever recommend at-home procedures if the client has been educated and supplied with the products and equipment by a trained professional.” Yadira Cauchi, a dermal therapist and beauty writer, says she has seen and heard almost everything when it comes to clients’ experiments with online trends. “Where do I start?” she laughs. “People sticking potato on their face to clear their acne? Or rubbing actual salmon fillets onto their skin for omega-3 benefits?” She says that the issue with Tik Tok is that skincare hacks prioritise shock value and virality over efficacy. “It does irk me that impressionable young people are trying them. The internet is a wild place for skincare advice, and people are always looking for a quick fix.” With retailers closed during lockdown, tight budgets and e-commerce deliveries delayed, it’s perhaps unsurprising clients turn to skincare solutions in their kitchen cupboards. In recent years, Dr. Cara McDonald has also noticed a swing towards natural, single-ingredient products driven by confused messaging around health and sustainability. She says, “the ‘natural’ skincare movement has accelerated in recent years, as people become more concerned with the impact the environment has on their bodies, and the impacts humans have on the environment.” She says that, unfortunately, the equation drawn by online articles and beauty consumers is inaccurate. “Consumers are incorrectly led to believe that ‘natural’ skincare is better for them and the environment. The reality is that ‘natural’ is an unregulated marketing term with no true definition or meaning.”
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Yadira Galarza Cauchi
Cara says it’s helpful to explain to clients that you can have “too much of a good thing, especially with acidic ingredients found in popular home remedies like apple cider vinegar and citrus-based ingredients.” It’s essential to explain to clients that while some ingredients are beneficial in skincare, their benefits are unlocked through cosmetic chemistry. “Products that have been scientifically formulated and validated for safe and effective results may contain natural ingredients – but at specific levels. Too little of an active and the product will be ineffective, too much and it can be harmful.” She also says that while home remedies may work for some, they are not tested, nor do they come with usage recommendations for different skin types. Commonly recommended products on social media like coffee scrubs or raw coconut oil could work for some skin types. The issue is that the influencer recommending them is a sample study of one. “An exfoliating scrub made out of coffee grounds might be okay for someone with congested, robust skin, but it can cause irritation, breakouts and barrier breakdown in others. Likewise, coconut oil can provide a nourishing barrier for some people – but congestion and breakouts for others.”
