valletta18 The Malta Independent on Sunday 16 September 2018
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NO, NOT CARAVAGGIO Crowds may flock to view Caravaggio's Beheading of St John another artist, equally talented, has an even a greater link with Valletta – Mattia Preti.
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n 1613, in the small town of Taverna, in Calabria, southern Italy, a baby boy was born who would grow up to become one of the world's greatest and most prolific artists of his time and to leave precious legacies in Valletta and the rest of Malta. He is thought to have first been apprenticed to Giovanni Battista Caracciolo, who was known as a follower and admirer of Caravaggio. His brother, Gregorio, was also a painter and sometime in the 1620s Preti joined him in Rome. There he grasped Caravaggio's techniques and those of other famous and popular artists of the age, including Rubens and Giovanni Lanfranco. Preti spent time in Venice between 1644 and 1646 taking the chance to observe the opulent Venetian styles and palettes of artists like Veronese. He remained based in Rome however, where his work consisted mostly of painting church frescos. Between1653– 1660, Preti worked in Naples, absorbing the influence of, Luca Giordano, another major
Bust of Mattia Preti
The Adoration of the Magi
Part of the vaulted ceiling of St John's Co-Cathedral
Diogenes With His Lantern, In Search of an Honest Man painter of the era. One of his great works, in Naples was a series of large frescoes depicting the plague with the Virgin Mary, and saints, delivering people from the plague, painted on seven gates in the city. Sadly, these have been lost over time but there are two sketches in the Capodimonte Museum in Naples. Preti visited the island of Malta 1659, probably due to the patronage of the Knights of St John. It was to become his lasting home. His reputation grew and so did his circle of patrons. Commissions came from the whole of Europe. Having
painted an altarpiece for the Chapel of the Langue of Aragon, Preti offered to do more work on the then new and very, bare St John's Co-Cathedral. Grand Master Raphael Cotoner accepted his offer and commissioned him to decorate the whole vaulted ceiling. The magnificent scenes from the life of St John took six years and completely transformed the cathedral. Preti was promoted to the rank of a Knight of Grace. But Mattia Preti's talent did not end at painting. And, he was to leave the island another even more priceless artistic legacy. In December, 1675 there was an outbreak of plague in Marsamxetto. It rapidly spread to Valletta, Senglea and Żurrieq. Malta lost a third of its population. Grand Master Nicholas Cotoner looked to the divine intercession of the Virgin Mary, the Immaculate Conception, as the power over evil, to stop the plague. He ordered that the small Sarria Church, in Floriana, be rebuilt in a grander style in thanksgiving for her intercession. Mattia Preti was commissioned to design the church and he also oversaw its building. It is thought to be the only church in
the world designed and built by Preti, and no fewer than seven of his paintings hang within it. They include the monumental titular painting and others which fit perfectly in the architecturally designed stone alcoves he created for them. In keeping with the original need for the church, the saints in the images are all connected in some way with the deadly disease. Mattia Preti presented the Grand Master with a model of the church in May 1676. That same year the plague ended. As an artist Mattia Preti is justifiably revered. His career was long and very prolific. His paintings, mostly in the Baroque style and depicting hundreds of scenes, portraits and ecclesiastical subjects, hang in the greatest museums, churches and private collections worldwide; including, of course, his hometown. But Malta has the honour of being the place he called home, where some of his greatest work was done, and can still be enjoyed. And where, at the then remarkable old age of 86, he was finally laid to rest in the cathedral he transformed so brilliantly, in 1699.
ST ELMO’S FIRE A great deal is made of the bombing raids that laid so much of Valletta to waste during World War 2, but not so much is talked about the danger she faced from sea craft
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ere we go back to the night of July 25to 26, 1941, to, among other events, the destruction of St Elmo’s Bridge, during an Italian forces’ attempt to penetrate the fortifications that were protecting Grand Harbour. That night, some 30 commandos, with two maiale, left Sicily aboard the warship Regia Marina with a plan for one of the maiale to destroy the nets around St Elmo’s bridge, which were deployed by the British to close the harbour. Once that hurdle was cleared, 10 fast ships would go in with an ‘army' of marines who would then attach limpet mines to as many of Her Majesty's fleet at anchor as they could.
Tesei, made a bold decision. He would ram the warhead, which was at least in place, into action Meanwhile, the second maiale was to seek out and destroy at least one of the British submarines that were apparently in the harbour. It was considered that staging this, relatively easy raid stealthily, in the dead of night would as good as guarantee its success. Except for one thing, the British had a neat little alarm device called an acoustic mirror through which they detected the ‘armada' when it was still about 23 kilometres out at sea. Major
Henry Ferro, then commander of Fort St Elmo's the defence regiment gave the order to hold fire. Unaware that they were under observation the Italians were running into trouble from the word go. The warhead on the first maiale malfunctioned and did not destroy the nets as planned. The whole force found itself stuck outside the harbour and still unable to enter; and dawn was fast approaching. The unit commander, Major
Major Tesei
with his craft. He took aim and tried to jump clear seconds before any impact. He was killed instantly in the consequent explosion, and the bridge was demolished. But it achieved nothing. Falling straight down into the sea the bridge completely filled any gap in the nets, and entry into the harbour was still totally blocked. At which point the wellprepared and patiently waiting British opened fire. Any Italian commandos who tried to get to the harbour over land were quickly captured. The remainder of the company left on in their motor boats, hotly pursued by the Royal Air Force, who set off after them first thing in the morning. Italian enemy losses that day were 15 men killed and 18 prisoners of war; all the human torpedoes, motor torpedo boats and MAS boats were lost.
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LA BIENNALE DI VENENZIQ 2019
ARTS COUNCIL MALTA ANNOUNCES WINNING PROJECT FOR THE MALTA PAVILION AT LA BIENNALE DI VENEZIA 2019 Setting Malta, Maleth, at the centre of its theme, the project focuses on the role of the island as cultural centre of the Mediterranean Sea, both in history and in current times.
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he project seeks to present an exhibit which invites the audience to reflect on their own lifetime journey of self-discovery, their own search for a personal Haven/ Port. Drawing on the tri-fold of history/archaeology, myth/tradition and vision/expectation, the exhibit aims to create within the space of the Malta Pavilion a topos/locus of artistic conversation for the whole of the Mediterranean Sea. Absolutely entuned with this year’s theme of the Venice Art Biennale as described by its artistic director, the project 'will aim to welcome its public to an expansive experience of the deep involvement… engaging visitors in a series of encounters...', leading to selfdiscovery. Creating a space within a space, Evoking Heterotopias invites the audience to participate in an intuitive dialogue with the artworks which are organically placed within the built shell of the Venetian Arsenal. As vessels/ islands within a sea, artworks come together, in creating a unique experience for the visitor, who is asked to traverse the exhibition space in a voyage of self-discovery that takes place in a suggestive fictitious space of controlled light and sound. The winning team comprises Dr Hesperia Iliadou Suppiej (lead curator), Vince Briffa (artist), Klitsa Antoniou (artist), Trevor Borg (artist) and Perit Matthew Joseph Casha (architect/designer). The production management team comprises Mr Stephen Ciantar and Mr George Lazoglou. The aim of the Malta Pavilion is to offer a platform through which Maltese contemporary artistic practices understood within the broadest sense of the term can be exposed, contextualised and presented to an international audience. Dr Hesperia Iliadou-Suppiej (lead curator)
Hesperia Iliadou
CAVE OF DARKNESS – PORT OF NO RETURN A site-specific installation by Trevor Borg Trevor Borg’s work titled Cave of Darkness– Port of No Return dives into the distant historical past of the island of Malta and of the Mediterranean itself to reimagine the story of Għar Dalam cave. His work proposes a re-imagined narrative of the story of the pre-historic animals that found refuge there only to finally meet their death when the level of the seas rose. In a site-specific installation meticulously researched by the artist, excavated remains of never-seen-before creatures and peculiar artefacts retrieved from now lost ancient Mediterranean cultures re-emerge to expose new layers of meaning. The artist invites the visitor into a mystical journey of surprise and self-inquiry navigating through the prehistoric layers of Malta in the footsteps of its earliest inhabitants and their final end. The work is an exploration of entrapment concealed within a safe haven.
Trevor Borg
OUTLAND
A multi- media installation by Klitsa Antoniou Atlantropa was a gigantic engineering and colonisation idea devised by the German architect Herman Sorgel in the 1920s. His project proposed to partially drain the
Mediterranean forming a European supercontinent. Today, more than ever, the Atlantropa scheme (of forming land bridges in the Mediterranean) seems relevant as it is suddenly fortified by contemporary intensity to remind us of the limits on freedom (migrants and refugees) and the destiny of the inhabitants of this area (surviving amid military, political, economic, social complexities/contrasts, migrations and fluid topographies of rejected, forgotten, unseen and silent memories). This project in the context of the Malta Pavilion will aim to conceptually and artistically join the two islands of the Mediterranean, Malta and Cyprus, by offering glimpses on the utopian drives and the dystopian fallouts that characterise the Mediterranean area. The 58th International Art Exhibition will be titled May You Live in Interesting Times, a phrase of English invention that has long been mistakenly cited as an ancient Chinese curse that invokes periods of uncertainty, crisis and turmoil. La Biennale di Venezia 2019 artistic director, Ralph Rugoff explained his choice for the
theme: “An exhibition should open people's eyes to previously unconsidered ways of being in the world and thus change their view of that world...” where “the meaning of artworks is not embedded principally in objects but in conversations – first between artist and artwork, and then between artwork and audience...” Malta returned to La Biennale di Venezia in 2017 after a 17year absence. Prior to that, it had participated with a special exhibition of Maltese Artists in 1958 and a National Pavilion in 1999. The 2017 Malta Pavilion, entitled Homo Melitensis: An Incomplete Inventory in 19 Chapters, received international press acclaim, garnering a host of high-profile media accolades and acknowledgements. The Observer listed it as one of the five best pavilions, out of over 85 national pavilions, the Culture Trip listed it as one of “the 10 National Pavilions you can’t miss at the Venice Biennale” and Forbes magazine listed it as one of the 13 reasons to visit the Biennale Arte 2017. Over 600,000 people visited the 57th International Art Exhibition and over 5,000 international journalists attended the press preview.
Vince Briffa
Klitsa Antoniou
Matthew Casha
A multi-screen projection by Vince Briffa OUTLAND focuses on the indecisiveness of man as he longs to return to his original life, caught between the safety of an island and the peril of sea crossing. Inspired by The Odyssey, it uses the myth of Calypso and Ulysses to reinterpret, in contemporary imagery and sound, the duality of the character of Calypso, as lover and oppressor, as she offers a haven for Ulysses during the seven years of his harbouring in her cave. Through multiple films, the installation explores the numbness and the lure of safety, the obsession of keeping someone hostage and the longing for freedom.
ATLANTROPA: A HETEROTOPIA OF EVOCATION
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THE PASMORE GALLERY
GRAND GALLERIES Until comparatively recently there were less than half a dozen venues for exhibiting art in Valletta. At last this seems to be changing.
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city’s art is a large part of its identity. The buildings, their design and décor, its valued collections, by the famous and gifted from all centuries and nations, and its contemporary pieces, mostly by ‘local’ artists, define its status on the culture food chain. The comparatively recent increase in spaces for art to be displayed can only be keenly welcomed; by artists and those who appreciate art, or simply those who wander in out of curiosity or to escape the heat. Some of the newer galleries are mentioned below, and they are all the more welcome because they are not just reaching out to those who produce paintings, sculptures and other intriguing works, but to those who are interested in the creation and history of art, or who simply ‘know what they like’. As permanent locations, these galleries are nourishing a limitless group of people who see art as a means of communicating, in more ways than one; for people who like to meet artists, or study and discuss works of art and their messages with others who share their interest. With their varied, special shows and linked events the possibilities for their growth are hopeful.
VALLETTA CONTEMPORARY
Young artists will feel encouraged, visitors, local and from abroad, will draw parallels with countries where art and artists are properly appreciated and treated with the respect so many of them deserve. Art is highly emotive. Its influence has the potential to trickle through to everyone, one way or another. It can lift the spirit, infuriate and inspire. It can make us look again, think and feel. It can impress us, wherever it is shown well and the more places it can appear the better. Here are a few examples of the Galleries that are bringing art and different ways to enjoy it to the fore. VALLETTA CONTEMPORARY, opened in April this year, is dedicated to national and international contemporary art. Its environment encourages discussion and cultural discovery, and stands as a catalyst for adapting to the new artistic landscape. As an emerging gallery, Valletta Contemporary‘s 2018 calendar involves a total of seven shows in total. Gabriel Caruana: A contemporary in the modern, was the most recent. And it was very well received. The gallery is run by the META Foundation, which was set to up to run its premises. Its aim is to support and provide guidelines for its main objective: promoting contemporary art in multiple methods, particularly showcasing all the disciplines in the visual arts, including
architecture and design, and it promotes quality and excellence in all aspects of contemporary art through an established number of collaborations with local and international institutions and collectors. Valletta Contemporary also runs regular outreach programs and diverse educational and knowledgesharing initiatives. These involve both practising artists and the local community. It will also encourage the enjoyment of works of art through its retail facility, which is designed to support the work of Maltese and international emerging artists and designers. INIALA5 is on a mission to create sustainable growth in the local art market to help both local artists and industries alike. Through a diverse program, their team focuses on creating collaborations between an array of sectors in order to strengthen both the creative industries and the artists themselves. As the sector keeps on growing they aim to nurture artists alongside the developing industry, not only stimulate them, but also help them develop a sustainable art practice on an international level. INIALA5 has established itself within the local sector as an entity that strives at creating audience engagement through continuous events, exhibitions and services. Their galleries allow access to the latest contemporary
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BLITZ
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Photo by Alexandra Pace.
INIALA5 BLITZ
Photo by Alexandra Pace.
VALLETTA CONTEMPORARY
INIALA5
art collections on a day-to- day basis. High ceilings, white walls and perfect lighting allow the art to pop. Further to this, INIALA5 has recently launched its latest concept. ‘Curating Spaces’ offers an all inclusive service of art curation in public spaces, bringing art from the gallery into public spaces. Their diverse programs are all oriented towards one goal: a mission that continuously creates opportunities for creative growth in education, business and charity through their Philanthropic Program. Philanthropy is at the core of INIALA5, aiming to inspire other entities to have a charitable approach in their business model and to inspire others to invest in building skills and expertise among local leaders. It has set a path to inspire and create change, which will one day turn into a living legacy THE PASMORE GALLERY is tucked away within the outer fortification walls of Valletta, near the bus terminus. This unique gallery is dedicated to one of Britain’s foremost abstract art pioneers, Victor Pasmore, who is arguably the most important artists to have settled and worked in Malta during the second half of the 20th century. The gallery now houses a wide range of Pasmore’s creations and preferred media, in a permanent collection. This includes drawings, reliefs, spray paintings, constructions and composite works. Not all the works were produced in Malta, but the works on display are a large representation of Pasmore’s artistic practice and philosophy. Fondazzjoni Patrimonju Malti took over the management of the Victor Pasmore Gallery with the intention of bringing to light the importance of Pasmore against the backdrop of the Maltese modern art movement. “Once independent, a painting becomes the sole visual object so that its content becomes totally immanent in its form and image, a condition which renders its meaning essentially potential. Emerging in anonymity, therefore, the new painting can become a sign or symbol of infinite extension, directly finding its place in the eye and mind of the spectator.” – Victor Pasmore (Images of Colour, 1983) BLITZ can be found in a typical four-level Valletta townhouse, in St Lucia Street. This independent, not-forprofit, project space supports experimental and radical contemporary arts practice in all its forms. Blitz projects focus on fostering local creative talent, as well as building a relationship between a Maltese artistic context and an international cultural network through border-crossing curatorial and artistic exchanges. The building has been repurposed into a site for residencies, exhibitions and education, and a social space for the creative and the curious. Blitz is a curated space with a focus on contemporary existence, its constant state of invention and the ubiquitous presence of digital culture. Our mission is to work closely with artists, curators, writers and researchers who are articulating these trends through cross-media and trans-disciplinary practice. Blitz programmes seek to engage new audiences in contemporary arts; investigate how access to highquality exhibitions can be improved and serve as the impetus to expand the local contemporary cultural infrastructure. Blitz aims to break down all barriers to the enjoyment of contemporary art and engender a culture which recognises the positive effects of being culturally active for individuals, communities and society at large.
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FIRST STEPS IN THE CITY Itinerate traveller J Gulliver, shares his first impressions of Malta’s capital.
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don’t know about you, but whenever I hear the word ‘city’ it conjures up visions of metropolises, like Paris, Rome, London or New York. That was until I visited the city of St David’s. This small town, no… more of a large village at the tip of West Wales, UK, is apparently the tiniest city in Britain. It was certainly not what I was expecting when I stepped across the bridge from Floriana into Valletta on my first visit there. Yes, St David’s is still the smallest city on my CV, but Valletta can certainly claim to be… well… bijou, to say the least. I was actually rather impressed by the entrance near the large fountain; two enormous blocks of cream limestone forming a clean and rather pleasing gateway to what lay beyond. Inside a wide walkway is flanked on the left by shops and cafes, and on the right by the apparently expensively designed parliament building and what remains of the war-gutted grand opera house. I will pass on commenting on the parliament building other than to remark that, to the uninitiated yes – it does closely resemble a giant cheese grater. The opera house site however looks to me like an opportunity missed, or maybe a financial cop-out. I obviously don’t know enough to make a definitive judgement, but it is patently obvious to all but the blind or terminally stupid, that what passes for an open-air theatre is little more than a great big white elephant. But once I got past this 21st century ghetto, the rest of Valletta largely charmed me. The many cafes all look busy. The architecture, in the main, is charming and contrasts markedly with the aberration just inside the gate of the city. But what truly impressed me were the interiors. I had heard much about the spectacular beauty of St John’s cathedral and I sure wasn’t disappointed. This magnificent place of worship is not over imposing from the outside, but once you enter. Wow! Its grand baroque interior is dramatically embellished with paintings, carvings and floor tiles the like of which one usually only sees in palaces or somewhere like the Vatican itself. And let’s not forget the oratory where not one but two of Caravaggio’s masterpieces are on show: The large and imposing The Beheading of St John the Baptist and the smaller portrait of St Jude. St John’s cathedral is truly one of Malta’s greatest assets, wonderful. Another building modest about its interior within a narrow street, not far from St John’s, is Malta’s national theatre – The Manoel Theatre, in the appropriately named Old Theatre Street. Its somewhat dowdy façade gives way to the loveliest of baroque interiors. I don’t know what it’s like to watch a show in this space, the sight lines from some of the boxes are less than adequate,
Exterior of St James Cavalier with temporary modern sculpture.
The Manoel Theatre’s magnificent interior but to stand in the main aisle and gaze at an auditorium that is both glorious and very, very old is an experience that will stay with me for a long time. The theatre was apparently opened in 1732, seats just over 600 punters and – so I am informed – is the third oldest working theatre in Europe. I also found that Valletta has a number of wide open squares or pjazzas within its walls and these are much needed in such a tiny confined space. I drank a leisurely espresso in a pjazza graced by a guano-splattered statue of the 19th century British Queen Victoria, just across the road from the main square in the city. This is St George’s Square, the venue for most of the official parades and open air ceremonies that take place throughout the year. It is immediately adjacent to the President’s palace. Built by the Knights of St John, it is said that this magnificent building escaped the Luftwaffe’s bombs during World War 11 because German General Kesselring intended to use it as his headquarters once Malta fell. Dream on General. I did not venture as far as, what is now known as the Mediterranean Conference Centre, the former Knights Hospital. I had wanted to visit it, but although not yet a qualified or quantified geriatric, I decided the hike was just a kilometre too far. I’m told that until quite recently a fleet of electric taxis plied the streets of Valletta picking up passengers as they went along and charging very reasonable rates; but I failed to see even one of these during my sojourn in the city. Maybe the drivers were on strike? Time for lunch, I discovered an attractively retro little restaurant, Rubino or Rubino’s was it, in Old Bakery Street for, what turned out to be an excellent lunch. Not cheap but worth every cent. After which and feeling at peace with the world, even a world without those promised electric taxis, I strolled as far as Castille Square to ogle the massively impressive official residence of Malta’s prime minister. Just time to slip into another anonymous looking building beside Castille known as The St James Cultural Centre. There I took in an exhibition of water colours and also toured the building, which houses two exhibition complexes, a cinema, a theatre and a restaurant. I also attempted to visit the bathroom but the only Gents I located was “Out of
Valletta’s ‘ruined’ opera house Order”. I thought I would have to cross my legs till I got back to St Paul’s Bay, but my distress must have communicated itself to a kindly female employee, who invited me to make use of the Ladies’ facility while she stood guard at the door. It was a fairly warm summer day so I didn’t really appreciate the wait at the uncovered bus stop for the bus back to St Paul’s. The absence of any sort of overhead protection was bad enough in summer, but I shouldn’t fancy it much on a wet day in winter either. Sadly many basic things seem to be lacking in Valletta, why? But, enough of the carping, I did enjoy 95 per cent of my first visit to Valletta. Next time I come – and yes there will hopefully be a next time – I shall hope for perfection… ahem.
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SEPTEMBER 2018
RESTORATION OVER REPUTATION Small, private cinemas are not always known for showing the latest Oscar winners or popular family films
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n fact, worldwide, many have catered for decidedly marginal audiences and shown films of a certain content in premises that should definitely come with a government health warning. On the other hand, there are those that preserve the classics, the
wonderful tools and gadgets used to show a film, the marketing and promotional art works, ‘background’ music sources and reminder of the earliest picture houses, for the benefit of nostalgia seekers and genuine film buffs. Imagine watching Casablanca, Gone With the Wind, early Hitchcock thrillers and the slapstick storylines of American and Ealing comedies, in the same sort of surroundings as their first audiences experienced. City Lights Cinema, in Valletta, seems to attract many tourists, according to posts on travel sites. And it certainly has a treasure trove of movie
memorabilia and genuine furniture and fittings going back to pre-talkies days. Would the purists prefer to see the collection displayed a little less as if some of it was awaiting a skip? Probably, but for the most part, these are just the trappings of a family business going back several generations. It is the film enthusiasts’ good fortune that the culture of sweeping clean and chucking out redundant equipment over the years, has not prevailed here. What can be used is being used; 35mm projectors, original tip up seating, for example. Authenticity comes first. Anything else is preserved and is there to be seen, together with the unique
buzz of anticipation and the suspension of belief that made the early movies so magnificent and magical in their day. There are plans for the cinema to become a venue for regular screenings of old films and ‘classics’ from the last century, even those from a mere 30 or 40 years ago; which is a little disarming if you remember seeing them when they were first released! These new art house cinemas are very popular and well supported in towns worldwide. And to see the same enthusiasm and support encouraging the social and cultural attraction of vintage films here in Malta would be quite something.
EUROPEAN MOBILITY WEEK 16 – 22 SEPTEMBER
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or the fifth consecutive year, Transport Malta is organizing the National Bicycle Ride on 21st September, Independence Day. Registration for the event opens at 08:00hrs at Belt is-Sebħ, Floriana. Participation is free of charge. The aim for this event is to raise awareness that road users can share the road with cyclists. Every cyclist on the road is one less car in the traffic jam. This initiative is part of
European Mobility Week, a campaign launched annually by the European Commission to promote sustainable mobility at locality level. Each year, the campaign is held between the 16th and 22nd September. Activities to promote sustainable transport are held every day throughout the week with the peak being the 22nd where Europe joins the rest of the world to celebrate World Car Free Day. On the day, people all over the world are encouraged, for just one day, to make use of
alternative means of transport to get to their destinations. Malta will be joining in the festivities this year and the focus of the event will take place at the Strand, Sliema. On the day, the Strand – direction to Sliema – will be closed for traffic between 10:00hrs to 16:00hrs. Visitors can either take the Sliema – Valletta ferry service which will operate on subsidized rates or opt for the park and ride service which will be made available on the day free of charge. The service will
be operating from Floriana to Gżira. Other events will be held throughout the entire week at Mqabba, Ħad-Dingli, ĦażŻebbug, Ħal Safi and Għarb (Gozo). These measures are also being supported by the CIVITAS DESTINATIONS, a project being funded by Horizon 2020. The project shall pilot innovative measures which aim to reduce the negative impact of the influx of tourism on the transport infrastructure at small island
destinations. The main deliverable of this project is the compilation of a Sustainable Urban Mobility Plan for the Inner and Outer Harbour Region of Malta while several actions shall be piloted in parallel. These include the deployment of Smart Parking in Valletta, the promotion of shared transport, the introduction of Green Mobility Awards for the hotel sector and the implementation of grants for Local Councils to implement permanent measures relevant to sustainable transport.
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