FIRST November 2018

NOVEMBER 2018

PARENTING SOLVING YOUR BABY’S UNHEALTHY SLEEPING PATTERNS MOVEMBER INSIDE TWO OF MALTA’S OLD BARBER SHOPS BULGARIA EUROPE’S UNDERRATED TRAVEL DESTINATION VALENTINO ARCHITECTS DESIGNING BEYOND THE VISUAL

Editor’s note

I hope you enjoy the read. Until next month!

JOANNA DEMARCO Editor Editor JOANNA DEMARCO jdemarco@independent.com.mt Advertising Manager SEAN ELLUL sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Executive ILARIA MOUSU ialmousu@independent.com.mt Designer CONRAD BONDIN cbondin@independent.com.mt Production manager ANDRE CAMILLERI acamilleri@independent.com.mt Publisher STANDARD PUBLICATIONS, Standard House, Birkikara Hill, St Julian’s.

Tel: 00356-2134-5888 Printer PRINT IT E-mail first@independent.com.mt Online www.independent.com.mt Facebook firstmagazine.

Cover details: Venla Edelmann from ModelsM wearing Karen Millen. Photography by Gulja Holland.

First is published as a complimentary magazine with The Malta Independent on Sunday and is not to be sold separately.

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ne of the things that I really love about the Internet is that for whatever major dilemma or frivolous concern you are facing in your life, there is a pre-existing forum already there, present in the eternal vacuum that is the World Wide Web, that has already discussed the most elaborate of questions and can offer advice on the most uncomfortable, honest declarations. It could be anything – from something as trivial as “what will happen if my dog eats too much ham?” to a more urgent concern such as “I’m feeling lonely”.

Although the people giving advice are strangers, and although sometimes their names don’t sound too legitimate, it is comforting to know that you are not alone in your concerns, that people have already been there, that your issue is perfectly normal and that there are people who can help.

Our Inside feature for this issue looks at one type of safe space which has existed since long before the Internet: the barber shop. “At any barbers’ shop, it is quite normal for a customer to sit down and really open up about something, whether it is marital troubles, work-related stress or health issues,” said Tony, one of the barbers to whom First spoke. Such a discussion-evoking environment is indeed the underlying reason behind Movember, the annual moustache-growing campaign that is aimed at igniting discussion and inspiring openness about men’s health issues.

Similarly, but quite different, in this issue’s Parenting feature is sleep coach Becky Gingell’s story. Becky, exhausted due to her baby’s sleepless nights, found the help and advice she was looking for on the other side of the world, in America – at the mere click of a button.

She quickly learnt how to take control of her baby’s sleeping patterns and he was sleeping through the night in a matter of days.

We are living in a time where, when we have a problem, our first confidant is often the whole virtual world. And I wonder whether this is always a good thing? Whilst it is always nice to know that people have gone through the same thing as you, and that there are people there to listen, I am quite convinced that, at the same time, there is really no substitute for face-to-face conversation and interaction.

On a different note, do read our interview with Valentino Architects on page 44, in which, following their success in winning the Premju Emanuele Luigi Galizia award, Ann Dingli talks to Sandro and Peter Valentino about their architectural philosophy. The Mediterranean Culinary Academy also cooks up some delicious mezze which are ideal nibbles as the weather gets older.

Contributors

MARTIN CALLEJA URRY Martin is a freelance writer and researcher with a particular interest in social sciences, who has been contributing to local publications for the past eight years and running

MATTHEW SPITERI Matthew is a local, award-winning fashion photographer. Find him on his ‘Matthew B Spiteri photographer’ Facebook page.

LAURA SCHEMBRI Laura is a wordsmith, bookworm and dog enthusiast. She takes pride in carefully curating her dog’s Instagram account @the_nelly_diaries

DORIANNE MAMO Dorianne is a content creator and a fashion stylist. She’s interested in all things fashion, travel and beauty and blogs on whatever she finds intriguing on www.askdorianne. com

ANN DINGLI Ann is an art and design writer who moves back and forth between Malta, London and New York.

She runs I think I like it – a blog that discusses art, architecture and design in a frank and relatable way. www.anndingli.com www.think-likeit.com

GABRIEL SCHEMBRI Gabriel is a journalist and book author currently gaining inspiration whilst travelling the world.

DAYNA CLARKE Dayna is a senior speech and language therapist working in Malta. Having traveled around Europe extensively, she has fallen in love with Malta and its people. When she is not in the clinic, Dayna enjoys writing, painting and learning Maltese.

WE ARE GIVING AWAY Prada Candy EDP Set 50ml courtesy of Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery.

FOR A CHANCE TO WIN, ANSWER THE FOLLOWING QUESTION: WHAT IS THE NAME OF THE JAW-DROPPING MOUNTAIN RANGE IN BULGARIA? Like First magazine on Facebook and send your answer the good, old-fashioned way, by post, to: FIRST COMPETITION, The Malta Independent on Sunday, Birkirkara Hill, St Julian’s, by 26 November.

WINNER FROM THE OCTOBER ISSUE Anna Galea from Hal-Ghaxaq has won a Polaar Lapland Cream Gift set courtesy of Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery.

CONTENTS [T HE NOVE MBE R ISSUE 201 8 ]

8.

CONVERSATION WITH Luke Azzopardi

54.

FOOD

22.

Mezze by The Mediteranean Culinary Academy

FASHION

10.

INSIDE

Movember – The Maltese barbers who have been tending to fancy moustaches for decades

16.

6

The ‘layering’ time of year

26.

FASHION

44.

58.

Valentino Architects – designing beyond the visual

How to prevent Type 2 Diabetes

49.

62.

Design notes on Casa Ellul Suite Nine and Risette

Youth to take centre stage at Ziguzajg

ARCHITECTURE

HEALTH

Parallelism

38.

PARENTING

TRAVEL DIARY

Solving unhealthy sleeping patterns

Bulgaria – Europe’s underrated travel destination

INTERIORS

ARTS

INTERVIEW

CONVERSATION WITH Luke Azzopardi FIRST SPEAKS TO LOCAL FASHION DESIGNER LUKE AZZOPARDI FOLLOWING THE LAUNCH OF HIS LATEST COLLECTION: ‘ON THE OPERA’S RUINS’

Interview by Laura Schembri. Photograph by Kris Micallef WHEN DID YOU FIRST REALISE YOU WANTED TO PURSUE SUCH A CAREER PATH? I learnt pattern cutting and dress making at a very young age and was always interested in art, installation, fabrics and sculpture – particularly kinetic art pieces. Ten years ago I walked into the camilleriparismode store in Valletta for the first time and that is where I met Victor Camilleri. I developed a close working relationship with Victor, who is an expert on fabrics and fabric manufacturing techniques, which greatly influenced my own design processes.

DESCRIBE A TYPICAL DAY FOR YOU It’s a bit tough to describe a typical day – the studio takes on a number of different projects each year, so my work schedule is flexible and dynamic. I try not to start working before 11am, but then naturally work spills over to the early hours of the following morning – when it’s very quiet and I have no distractions.

WHAT ARE YOU CURRENTLY FASCINATED BY AND HOW IS IT INFLUENCING YOUR WORK? At the moment, the studio has been busy designing for theatrical productions such as those of ŻfinMalta and Tosca at Teatru Aurora.

I feel that my couture work is very theatrical so it does lend itself very well to the extravagant and decadent world of the theatre. The studio has just launched a new capsule collection entitled On the Opera’s Ruins and, as with others, it was a site-specific presentation.

We worked with what happens on stage after the curtains are drawn and explored the sense of in-betweenness or ambiguity by presenting the pieces as works in progress. My keen interest in art

and the history of costume continues to feed my work and this is very evident in my pattern cutting and choice of fabrics – which always carry a sense of historicism.

MANY PEOPLE WOULD SEE MALTA AND GOZO AS LIMITING IN TERMS OF HOW FAR YOU CAN PUSH YOUR BRAND OR HOW SUCCESSFUL YOU CAN BE. WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THIS? I guess it all depends on what kind of brand you want to be running. Luke Azzopardi is a couture brand focusing on one-toone sessions with clients and bespoke couture. With Malta’s newly developed interest in bespoke fashion commissions, I feel that there is definitely a market and that, together, we have managed to find the perfect mid-point between traditional costumes and fashionforward exercises celebrating individuality and style. The opera was extremely well-received, especially by the Gozitan public which, over the years, has become an expert in Puccini. This should not be overlooked.

YOU RECENTLY WORKED ON ALL THE COSTUMES FOR TOSCA. HOW LONG DID THAT TAKE YOU AND HOW DID YOU FEEL SEEING THE FINAL RESULT? Tosca was a labour-intensive project and saw the creation of over a hundred costumes in an extremely tight time-frame. It was my fourth opera, but my very first big verismo opera. Working with Vivien Hewitt was an incredible experience: she understood my background and aesthetic.

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Fi n e r Ho s p i ta l i t y, Cate r i ng a nd Ev e nt s

FESTIVE SEASON For more information and bookings kindly contact +356 21 450 560 or email info@xaracollection.com

INSIDE

MOVEMBER

MEET THE MALTESE BARBERS WHO HAVE BEEN TENDING TO FANCY MOUSTACHES FOR DECADES In the light of ‘Movember’ – an annual moustache-growing campaign aimed at changing the face of men’s health - First visited the men behind the scenes: two vintage barbers which, despite being distinctly different from one another, embody the true spirit of the old-fashioned barber, whose expertise when it comes to moustaches goes back way before Movember even existed Words by Martin Calleja Urry. Photography by Joanna Demarco ▶

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INSIDE

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INSIDE

ur first destination is a quaint little barber’s tucked away on a quiet side-street in Cospicua, run by 80-year-old, self-proclaimed joker and lover of life, Alfred (known as ‘Fredu’). A familiar face to many in and around the Three Cities, he has plied his trade here for 55 years and is no stranger to the media spotlight, having featured in several local and foreign news articles. As you walk in, you see a variety of old-fashioned barber’s tools, which would look rather out of place in your typical barber’s. Fredu, however, still uses them to this day to trim, shape, neaten and groom his client’s facial hair.

Fredu is quick to invite us inside and within a few minutes his warm welcome is accompanied by greetings from a pair of his regulars, Pawlu and Leli, for whom a visit to Fredu is part of their daily routine.

Pawlu sports a well-kept, thick grey and white moustache, so I question him about Movember, but neither he nor his barber’s friends seem to know much about it. Instead, we share a few lighthearted facial hair-related anecdotes, including a stomachchurning story about a Scotsman’s milky moustache.

“Years ago, I met a gentleman who had the most majestic moustache I’ve ever seen,” said Leli, the third member of the barber’s trio. “He would drink milk like there was no tomorrow, so he often made quite a mess. Once, I invited him over for a spaghetti dinner, but he refused to have cheese with it, which I found a bit odd. Instead, he shook all the dried milk from his moustache onto the spaghetti!”

Amused, but slightly disgusted, I turned my attention to telling the three gentlemen all I could about Movember, starting with its origins in Australia back in 2003 when, over a few pints of beer, two Aussies came up with a plan to bring moustaches back in fashion.

Astonished by the amount of attention they received, the original ‘Mo Bros’ as they became known, took the opportunity to dedicate the moustache-growing event to actively raising awareness and funds for men’s health issues.

Since its inception, the Movember Foundation has had over five million participants, raising hundreds of millions of euros for prostate and testicular cancer research and community support services worldwide. Last year alone, Movember raised around €75 million. ▶ 13

INSIDE

“WE DO GET CUSTOMERS WHO ASK US NOT TO TOUCH THEIR MOUSTACHE IN NOVEMBER.”

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◀ As our time at this local gem comes to an end, another of Fredu’s loyal customers strolls through the archway, greeted by customary tongue-in-cheek remarks from his peers.

So we bid farewell to Fredu and his pals and head towards our second and final stop.

Located on a busy street in Sliema, Kennedy by Tony & Dad opened its doors in 1963, with Salvu and his son Tony who come from a long line of no-nonsense barbers. The cosy, square-shaped shop contains quite a few knick-knacks, including a John F. Kennedy statuette perched on a little shelf, a collection of football memorabilia and photos of the barber’s shop taken decades ago.

The art of being a barber is deeply rooted in their family, going as far back as Salvu’s grandfather, with Tony’s nephew next in line to carry on the family legacy. So, with decades of experience under their belts, what has changed since they first started out?

Salvu immediately refers to the neverending changes in modern preferences when it comes to hairstyles, while Tony notes that keeping up with the latest trends vital when it comes to providing the customer with the best experience possible.

These barbers are much more familiar with the concept of Movember, and we discuss the wide range of magnificent moustaches on which they have worked

INSIDE

“IN ANY BARBER’S IT’S QUITE NORMAL FOR A CUSTOMER TO SIT DOWN AND REALLY OPEN UP ABOUT SOMETHING, WHETHER IT’S MARITAL TROUBLES, WORK-RELATED STRESS OR HEALTH ISSUES.”

“In any barber’s it’s quite normal for a customer to sit down and really open up about something, whether it’s marital troubles, work-related stress or health issues,” said Tony. “People share everything with us when they’re here.

Nothing is off limits – except politics,” he said with a smile.

Our chat turns towards the key differences between a hairstylist and a barber, the latter catering for shorter cuts with a pair of clippers, hot towel shaves and the general up-keep of facial hair.

Tony believes that over the years the profession lost some of its respect but that, lately, it’s slowly regaining its status.

Is the traditional barber becoming a thing of the past in Malta? Salvu and Tony believe the profession is alive and kicking, with no signs of it slowing down. In fact, modern barbers’ shops have sprouted up all over the island, their inspiration clearly drawn from the more traditional establishments.

Despite the stark contrast between the

two, both barbershops are remnants of the days of old, and will be remembered as cornerstones of the community long after they’ve cut their final strand of hair. Alfred will undoubtedly continue to put a smile on people’s faces and Tony & Salvu will proudly pass down their skills & knowledge to their next of kin.

While Movember campaigns have been hugely successful elsewhere in the world, they haven’t exactly caught on here, with most men preferring a full beard to the lonely ‘tash’. The Movember Foundation has seen a slight dip in funding over the years, but it is still a major player in the battle against prostate and testicular cancer research.

In just 15 years, the moustache has become a major symbol for men’s health, in the same way as the pink ribbon has for breast cancer. Breaking male taboos is not easy, but the Movember Foundation will continue doing everything it can to ensure that men’s health issues are no longer overlooked.

their magic over the years: the classic handlebar, the horseshoe and the pencil moustache, to name but a few.

“We do get customers who ask us not to touch their moustache in November,” said Tony, as he carefully trims a customer’s hair, the sound of the electric clippers providing an ongoing background hum.

Evidently, Tony also understands the importance of the barbers as a sort of ‘safe house’ for men to discuss certain issues they may not feel comfortable with sharing with others, a concept that falls in line with Movember’s core principles – openly discussing any kind of physical or mental debacle men find themselves in, in hope of receiving treatment as early as possible, before the problem snowballs.

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PARENTING

SOLVING UNHEALTHY SLEEPING PATTERNS AND THE GLASS HALF-FULL APPROACH From struggling night after night with a baby that couldn’t get to sleep, and not getting any sleep herself in the process, Becky Gingell now guides parents on how to solve terrible sleeping patterns, and teaches empowering parenting skills

e have all experienced at least one night of hardly any sleep and the repercussions of this: a very low tolerance level, for example, making us quite unapproachable, and the inability to concentrate properly on any job at hand, resulting in us being quite useless and generally unpleasant. For many parents struggling with their baby’s sleeping patterns however, this is a daily occurrence, so over a long period, the repercussions become more and more serious and unbearable. This is where Becky Gingell, one of Malta’s few sleep coaches, steps in.

A counsellor and play therapist by profession, Becky was faced with this exhaustion-inducing issue when the sleeping patterns of her first child, Matthew, prevented her from getting a single night’s decent sleep. In hindsight, however, she now sees this as a blessing in disguise, because her experience resulted in her helping hundreds of other distraught parents going through the same thing. ▶ 16

Photo by Joanna Demarco

Words by Joanna Demarco

Exclusively represented by ALFRED GERA & SONS LTD. TEL: 2144 6205

PARENTING

up, then the only way it can get back to sleep is with that sleep prop.”

This prop, such as rocking or walking, must therefore be replaced by self-soothing, removing the parent from the equation when it comes to seeping. “What you do with coaching is that you teach the parent different ways of how to, in turn, teach the baby how to self-soothe, completely weaning them off whatever prop they are addicted to”, said Becky. Then they learn their own way of getting themselves to sleep: with their dummy, rolling around or making their own baby sound, for example.”

Sleep coaching is not specifically for babies however. Similar skills apply to teach children – even those as old as 10 or 11 – to sleep alone.

The underlying determining factor must be that the parents are ready to help their children sleep on their own.

“It could be that there is a natural shift, but there are also those children who feel helpless without their parents, and if the parents keep them there, they are only reinforcing that feeling of helplessness. So parents need to empower their children in that way,” she said.

Other tips such as structure, a bedtime routine, having a winding-down period, not going to sleep too late and avoiding watching a television or computer screen before bedtime are other factors that are sure to help the situation.

The glass half-full approach

◀ “When Matthew was 14 months old and still not sleeping properly I was panicking because, night after night I was unable to get any sleep. I cannot handle sleepless nights, and the more over-tired I became, the more I simply couldn’t get to sleep,” Becky told me. Of course, sleepless nights cause not only fatigue, but a whole range of symptoms that result from the fatigue itself.

“I became a nightmare,” she said, bluntly. “I was anxious, lost my temper and became irritable which, in turn, had a huge effect on my relationships. At the same time, my son wasn’t sleeping well so he was always whining and cranky… it was basically one hugely stressedout house.”

As one does, in her state of fatigue Becky turned to Google for help and soon discovered the concept of ‘sleep coaching’ through a group based in America who could offer help virtually.

“I told them I didn’t care how much it cost, could they just help me out!” she recalled. In no time at all, she had put what she learnt into practise and in about two-and-a-half weeks, from waking up six times a night, baby Matthew was sleeping the whole night through and, as a result, so was Becky.

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Noticing that the concept of sleep coaching did not exist in Malta, and acknowledging her background in counselling and play therapy, Becky’s tutor asked her if she would like to train to become a sleep coach herself. Becky was up for the idea: “I then coached my second child, and some of my friends, and the results I saw were all positive. So I thought I would put what I had learnt into practise and see if it would catch on in Malta and slowly, slowly, people are becoming more and more open to the idea.”

By meeting many clients, Becky sees her experience reflected in other people. “Having now seen so many clients, I realise that they all come to me with the same symptoms so, in a way, it’s good that I went through it myself because I can completely empathise with them.”

The change is in the prop “Parents just want to get to sleep, so they do anything to get their baby to sleep in order for them to be able to as well,” she explained, when asked what causes these sleepless nights. “The thing is that a baby becomes used to the ways that their parents get them to sleep and this becomes a ‘prop’ of sorts. So if the baby wakes

Becky’s experience as a counsellor and sleeping coach has recently taken her to her next venture: training to become a ‘parent coach’. With such a role, she aims to provide parents with a set of skills by which they can raise their children in a way that is most beneficial to the child’s sense of wellbeing and empowerment.

“Working in counselling has made me realise that, when it comes to parents, through no fault of their own they may not be equipped with information about how to work with their children in a particular way,” she explained. “I am now planning to have a course in my name so that I can work with parents and show them certain skills that they can then use with their own children.”

These skills can be adapted go suit different ages and include emotional coaching: how to read your child’s emotions, giving them an emotional language and using the ‘glass half-full’ approach. “I felt I needed to empower parents so that they can work with their child who has problems and enforce certain behaviour, support the things the child does well, can see the glass as being half-full instead of half-empty and give them a belief in themselves.”

For more information visit the ‘Quiet Nights’ page on Facebook.

Exclusively represented by ALFRED GERA & SONS LTD. TEL: 2144 6205

TRENDS

LANTERNS by Mdina Glass. Create the perfect ambience indoors or out with handmade lanterns by Mdina Glass. Mouthblown glass is encased in a metal structure and finished off with high-grade leather handles for a striking, timeless look.

For more info tel: +356 2141 5786 visit www.mdinaglass.com.mt or follow Glass on facebook.com/mdinaglass

Outlets: Pjazza Tigné and Mdina (next to Palazzo Falson). Tel: 2010 6306 or facebook/henrimalta

BAUBLES by Mdina Glass. Add extra sparkle to your festive décor this Christmas with handmade baubles by Mdina Glass. Choose from a wide range of shapes, colours and sizes. Decorative angels, cribs and Christmas trees also available.

PURE XS FOR HER, PACO RABANNE A wildly provocative – and wildly untamed – floral formulated to bottle the essence of an orgasm, an explosion of the senses brought within reach with a distinctive Paco Rabanne flair. The fragrance is composed of a detonating duo: magnetic ylang-ylang on an intriguing popcorn-note explosion. The notes vibrate against each other, together in tension. To trigger, in an avalanche of the senses, a moment of explosive erotica.

GOOD GIRL VELVET FATALE, CAROLINA HERRERA Velvet Fatale, by Carolina Herrera, is the new collector edition of the successful Good Girl Eau de Parfum, one of the best-selling fragrances in the last years worldwide. The iconic shoe, a reference and a global hit, is enveloped in red velvet, a design that accentuates the sensuality of the juice.

Exclusively distributed by Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery Ltd., Tel: 2133 1553

Exclusively distributed by Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery Ltd., Tel: 2133 1553 BELLA, BY NINA RICCI After Nina and Luna, Les Belles de Nina is being shaken up by a new arrival, Bella. It is impossible to resist such an unpredictable beauty: A vibrant acidic floral, this fragrance is a sexy indulgence, with an affirmed personality. The subtle fruity, slightly bitter-sweet flavour of Rhubarb is made irresistible by a bold zest of green mandarin and a caress of vanilla. Rose is deployed in an alliance of Turkish rose oil and rose absolute. Freesia provides luminosity and crystalline freshness.

Exclusively distributed by Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery Ltd., Tel: 2133 1553

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BOOKENDS. A wide selection of unique gift ideas for family, friends (or just for yourself) including bookends, jewellery, tableware, traditional games, figurines and other decorative objects at HENRI Luxury Gift Boutique.

For more info tel: +356 2141 5786 visit www.mdinaglass.com.mt or follow Glass on facebook.com/mdinaglass

PRADA CANDY is a fragrance which marries exceptionally high quality ingredients in excessive proportions. Taking extremity as a starting point for new ideas, Prada Candy evolved from a desire to push things to the maximum, to create totally new, unexpected and optimistic concepts.

Exclusively distributed by Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery Ltd., Tel: 2133 1553

d c

KIDS

BABY FEHN SOFT TOYS Baby Fehn take making soft toys very seriously, after all they will be your little one's first ever friend.

Discover the full range of development toys in soft fabrics and all different colours.

Distributed by Alfred Gera & Sons Ltd., Tel: 2144 6205/6.

For more information visit the Baby & Toys Malta Facebook page.

FEEDING ON THE GO MADE EASY WITH FILL N SQUEEZE! Are you a mum beginning to introduce solid foods to your baby? Have you been looking for a reusable food squeeze pouch? Fill N Squeeze sell food pouches that are not only reusable but can be frozen too. The squeeze pouches are perfect for feeding your baby on the go and are cheaper, fresher and bigger than ones you would find at your local supermarket. You can store homemade food in a squeeze pouch, providing a fantastic way to introduce new foods into your baby’s diet. Weaning, feeding or simply for snacks, Fill n Squeeze is perfect for your baby, toddler and older child. Pouches are filled in seconds with the pouch-filling jug and simply squeeze when the time is right! The pouch allows you to have the convenience of a portable, mess- free baby food pouch, while still providing your little one with fresh homemade food and the ability to reuse the pouch over and over again.

SOOTHING PROTECTION BY MOMMY CARE Being aware of how gentle your baby's skin is, and how harsh the weather effects can be on her skin, Mommy Care brings a full line of products to nurture and protect your baby's skin all through the season. Whether at home or outside, on sunny, snowy or rainy days, the products provide complete nourishing and protection all day long. Baby Bath Oil – to sooth skin during bath time and restore skin's natural moisture. Baby body lotion – to moisturize and nourish skin all over, especially after bath time. Wind and cold protective balm - to protect those gentle cheeks before every outing. Baby facial cream – for rich restoring smoothness anytime. And biodegradable nose and face wipes – to protect and sooth red runny noses.

Exclusively distributed by Alfred Gera & Sons Ltd., Tel: 2144 6205/6.

For more information visit the Baby & Toys Malta Facebook page.

Distributed by Alfred Gera & Sons Ltd., Tel: 2144 6205/6.

For more information visit the Baby & Toys Malta Facebook page.

TOPMARK MIKA STROLLER The stroller is fitted with 5-point safety belt, a sun and wind cover and grocery basket. The back is adjustable in five positions, from a sitting to a sleeping position.

For extra comfort for your child, all foam wheels have suspension, the front wheels can swivel. Dimensions folded out: 67 x 45 x 107 cm, dimensions folded in: 25 x 20 x 108 cm, weight: 7 kg, recommended for children from: 6-48 m max 15 kg.

Distributed by Alfred Gera & Sons Ltd., Tel: 2144 6205/6. For more information visit the Baby & Toys Malta Facebook page.

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FASHION

The

‘USE ALL THE CLOTHES IN YOUR WARDROBE’ TIME OF YEAR DORIANNE MAMO FROM ASK DORIANNE SAYS WINTER, HER FAVOURITE SEASON, IS ALL ABOUT ONE LAYER, THEN ANOTHER, AND ANOTHER!

2. Add more layers For your second layer, you can add comfortable knit clothing such as a soft cardigan.

I love layering a warm crop top over a more fitted top for a more playful, cool look.

It looks fashionable without looking and feeling bulky! Yes, the trick is to obviously keep warm without bulking up; so I go ahead and belt my cardigan or poncho!

You can then add on another outer layer; preferably something open in the front such as an oversized teddy coat or a short leather jacket. When adding an extra piece to the outfit, always think of balance by pairing every item accordingly between weight, length and size of each layer.

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1. Start with the basics This can be anything from a form-fitting top to a buttoned cardi to a dress or a tunic. I prefer to pick a basic which is in a neutral solid shade.

That way, it will be easy to pair with stripes, patterns or prints or to inject some bolder brighter colours later on as you build the look!

3. Accessorize!

Don’t just layer your tops. You can wear high socks over tights and cozy high socks under high boots and over leggings; it will keep you warm and still look effortlessly fashionable. Scarves are another great layering piece! Besides keeping you extra warm, they also make an outfit look complete.

Whether you’re dressing for work, the weekend, or for a casual night out, you can take things to the next level by working a perfectly layered look! Just make sure your outfit works as a whole, even once the outer layer is removed and you’re good to go!

Follow Dorianne on her Facebook page 'Dorianne at AskDorianne'.

hose who know me are probably more than fed up of me always going on about how I love winter!

Personally, I can never quite get what there is not to love about the colder season! Starting from the cosying up inside to watch movies whilst enjoying warm beverages, to going for long walks in the countryside, to getting to wear thick, warm winter clothes and layering it all up.

It is safe to say that in autumn and winter you can get away with trying to wear almost every single piece of clothing in your wardrobe at the same time, without looking shabby, of course.

Layering is all about pairing different kinds of clothes together to create one warm, throwntogether look that looks effortless, yet is still very fashionable. In theory, it is pretty simple: add a cardigan over a tank top, or pair a dress with a blazer. I find that what’s essential when it comes to layering is to make sure that every layer fits really, really well. Then, you start with the basic, add one or two layers, team them with a coat or jacket and finally, sprinkle on your fanciest of accessories!

PROMOTION

SCANDAL

BY NIGHT SCANDAL WAS FREE SPIRITED. NOW, WITH SCANDAL BY NIGHT OUR SPIRITS WILL BE UNCHAINED! MADAME LA MINISTRE IN THE PARIS OF GAULTIER When the sun is up, Madame La Ministre is Madame La Ministre. She debates matters of state with her fellow colleagues (who are ministers), and runs to and fro, conference to conference. But at night, the outstanding business can go take a hike, and she’s concentrating instead on the truly important affair of the day (or should we say night): “Where and with whom are we going to have fun tonight?!".

Where? In Pigalle! With whom?

With the Jean Paul Gaultier gang!

PARIS BY NIGHT What we say at 9pm: "Welcome to Jean Paul’s night of the shameless and the brazen, that reprobate of Pigalle, where the night masks a 1000 sins and where all the purple neon lights are the color of temptation!”

What we say at 5am: "I don’t know what happened! We left to go down to the party, and we really did get down at that party.

That's Pigalle!".

THE BOTTLE What we say at 9pm: “When pink turns to purple, it means we’re about to step into the heart of the party and plunge into the unlimited delights of the Parisian night!”

What we say at 5am: "At one point, I don’t know what happened, but we were upside-down! Legs aloft! Looking all like the bottle!".

THE TIN CAN What we say at 9pm: "As long as the night is as gourmand and sensuous as the setting of Scandal by Night, we will have it all!"

What we say at 5am: "Around 2am, we started to blindfold each other! Some lost their minds as well as their sight! We didn’t really know if we were touching Scandal by Night’s bottle or something else even more scandalous!"

THE FRAGRANCE What we say at 21:00: "A bouquet of generous white flowers for when night falls. A smooth and gourmand honey with some torrid notes of Patchouli - you bet I smell good!"

What we say at 5am: "I was playing Patchouli and someone was playing Honey, and then we were trying to mix them together. Madame la Ministre? She was playing Fleur Blanche with her arms up in the air like petals. And after I don’t remember a thing, I swear!"

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PROMOTION

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FASHION

Dress from KAREN MILLEN. 26

FASHION

STYLING: JEANDOR FARRUGIA PHOTOGRAPHY: MATTHEW B SPITERI HAIR: DOMINIC BARTOLO MAKE-UP: KIM BAJADA MODELS: JUSTINA VIA FROM NOTICED MODELS CLOTHES AND ACCESSORIES: ALDO SHOES & ACCESSORIES, MARKS&SPENCER, KAREN MILLEN 27

FASHION

Top and skirt from MARKS & SPENCER Bum bag and shoes from ALDO SHOES & ACCESSORIES 28

FASHION

Dress from KAREN MILLEN Top from MARKS & SPENCER Glasses from ALDO SHOES & ACCESSORIES Chain from stylist’s collection 30

FASHION

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FASHION

Skirt from KAREN MILLEN Coat and roll neck from MARKS & SPENCER Bum bag and glasses from ALDO SHOES & ACCESSORIES 32

FASHION

Coat from KAREN MILLEN Trousers from MARKS & SPENCER Boots from ALDO SHOES & ACCESSORIES Shirt from stylist’s collection 33

FASHION NEWS

CHANEL SPRING-SUMMER 2019

READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTION This October CHANEL transformed the Grand Palais into a dream beach. An idyllic setting complete with sand, azure sky and sea

he colours are luminous: sunshine yellow, golden sand, tan beige, pink, blue, iced mint and mother-ofpearl white with navy blue and black. A parasol print on chiffon, multi-coloured plumetis sprinkled over tweed, and embroideries of sand and seashells: the atmosphere is joyful.

The look is defined by a sophisticated elegance with a variety of fabrics running from tweed to chiffon via crêpe, lace, cotton serge, denim, leather and poplin. The suit takes on new volumes: jackets have wide shoulders and flared sleeves, responding to skirts slit up the side and opening over miniskirts, or unzipped, oversize trousers. Jumpsuits with XL legs contrast sharply with outfits of short jackets and little tweed dresses. Men’s jackets are coupled with strapless cycling shorts or leggings.

Jeans go with belted cardigans or swimwear with an asymmetric shoulder.▶ 34

FASHION NEWS

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FASHION NEWS

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FASHION NEWS with layers of sautoirs, pendants and beaded necklaces, while the XXL cuff bracelets multiply. A sense of relaxation is accentuated by the mules with a small plexiglass heel or on a cork sole.

The 11.12 bags are dressed in tweed and braid, or with parasol embroidery. The BOY CHANEL is back as a saddlebag in leather and tweed patchwork.

Other bags called 'side packs', are carried in duo, crossing over each hip introducing a new way of being worn. The flap bags are in terrycloth or come with an XL bead handle. Large beach bags come in denim and straw, while the multicolour net bags and the leather and wicker camera cases complete the collection. Finally, the minaudières take shape as seashells or little beach balls.

For Spring-Summer 2019, Karl Lagerfeld invites us to live out the summer months from morning to night, in complete freedom and sophistication. The show was applauded by the CHANEL ambassadors Vanessa Paradis, Pharrell Williams, Caroline de Maigret, Soo Joo Park, Nana Komatsu, Alessandra Mastronardi, Gwei Lun Mei and Jennie Kim, the singers Jorja Smith, Ibeyi and Clara Luciani, as well as the actresses Mia Goth, Sylvia Hoeks, Sandra Ma and Jelly Lin. #CHANELByTheSea #CHANELSpringSummer

◀ For both day and evening, vest dresses step out in white tweed swathed in stripes or embroidered with sequinned parasols, and in a sandy-hued tweed dotted with sequins. Others are knotted like towels around the chest and held up with seashell necklace straps. Oversize tunics with a scooped neckline are open at the back. In mint or beige tweed, in crushed golden sand silk, they open to reveal a matching pair of shorts. Beach hut stripes appear over layered dresses in crêpe georgette inlaid with ladder lace.

There’s a diaphanous fluidity on long chiffon dresses printed with two-tone parasols and on a lace outfit. Resembling trails of sand, an embroidery of golden sequins sketches out delicate grooves on a pearlised white tweed suit, and on dresses in navy crêpe georgette. The waterproof coat for summer showers is reinvented as a flared raincoat in plasticised lace.

Karl Lagerfeld has fun appropriating the cabin dresses: now 'robes cabanes' ('beach hut dresses') they come in a multi-colour plumetis pink tweed and lace ruffles. For evening they reappear adorned with an origami of chiffon ribbons. The designer explodes a kaleidoscope of sequinned parasols over a strapless dress and a scintillation of sequinned palm trees over a cage dress in black chiffon.

Another dress is embellished with satin bows and ribbons.

On the accessories, CHANEL is split into two distinct syllables. Double visor caps and widebrimmed hats in fringed straw are sported, along

Karl Lagerfeld and Adut Akech

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TRAVEL DIARY

A ROAD TRIP THROUGH

BULGARIA Gabriel Schembri writes about his visit to one of Europe’s most underrated holiday destinations

Photo by Alexandr Bormotin

Photo by Gabriel Schembri

ome countries are better explored on four wheels, and Bulgaria should be at the top of your list for a light European road trip. The country is cheap, the food is mouthwateringly good and the mountain views are like something on a postcard. It has only recently become one of the most sought-after skiing destinations in Europe, but the country is very enjoyable even in the hot months. By hot, I mean 38ºC or more. Before visiting Bulgaria, I must admit that my expectations were not high, but by the end of my sevenday road trip I had been very positively surprised.

A seven-day itinerary: from nightlife in Sofia to the serene mountains of Rila I was told beforehand that Sofia offers nothing much, so I planned the route to include as little time in the capital as possible. But our one night in Sofia turned 38

out to be fun. We landed in Bulgaria in the middle of July and the heat was exhausting, but in the evening a relatively quiet capital comes to life.

Vitosha Boulevard This is a long, pedestrianised road in the heart of Sofia. It is close to the University district and the local population is generally young, with hundreds of restaurants, pubs and street buskers ruling the area. We had managed to find a decent apartment literally five minutes away from this hotspot and the rent was reasonable. Rents are generally between €25 and €40 per night. The food available in the area is not what one might consider ‘traditionally Bulgarian’ and you will have to get away from the city lights for more genuine cuisine. But for one night, Sofia is worth visiting for good pubs and a pleasant atmosphere.

In the summer months, the sun sets late – at around

Photo by Deniz Fuchidzhiev

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral in Sofia

TRAVEL DIARY

Sofia at night

10pm – so if you do get the chance, check out the city’s main attraction: St Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. It is close to the Boulevard and really is an architectural marvel not to be missed.

Village hopping your way to Rila There are loads of ways you can get around Bulgaria from Sofia, and doing a bit of planning beforehand can get you to some beautiful – and not so touristy – places. From the research I did for my trip, I knew that Rila was one of Bulgaria’s top attractions, but before heading for this jawdropping mountain range, there are a couple of not-to-be-missed places you really should drive through. What follows is the sequence of places through which you can pass in your car.

Koprivistcha From Sofia, head for Koprivistcha – a drive of some two hours by car. This small village is a serene▶ The ancient city of Plovdiv

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TRAVEL DIARY

second-largest city has a lot to offer. Apart from the amphitheatre and the old, traditional Bulgarian houses, this city offers a buzzing nightlife with a handful of cool pubs in the Capana area – which consists of a couple of intersecting streets with masterpieces of graffiti adorning the otherwise boring walls.

Rila

The seven lakes of Rila

Photo by Gabriel Schembri

Rila is definitely worth a two-night stay. When I was researching this area, I found myself seriously confused as to what exactly I was supposed to do. I knew that there was the famous Rila Monastery and the Seven Rila Lakes, but the big question was where would I stay? Now that I’ve actually been there, I can give you some useful tips.

First things first: the Rila Monastery and the Seven Rila Lakes are almost two hours by car apart. The second point you need to keep in mind is that the two, separately, would require a day each. Now, where is the ideal place to stay if you want to see both?

Panishiste would be good. It’s a small place up in the mountains, accessible by car, with beautiful hotels in which to stay. The Panorama Hotel and the Vila Ema, for example, are each only 20 minutes away from the lift to the Rila Lakes and an hour or so from the Rila Monastery. There is also the option to sleep in one of the huts up in the mountains.

Trekking the Seven Lakes.

The seven lakes of Rila

◀ gateway to the bustling city. Its old houses dominate the village centre and good traditional restaurants serve all kinds of Bulgarian food.

Even in summer, this area can turn quite cold in the evening, which is an enjoyable surprise if you are visiting it at this time of the year. Being a small village, there is little to do apart from relax and enjoy the food and scenery, and a one-night stay is probably enough.

Veliko Tarnovo A three-hour drive from Koprivistcha will get you to Veliko Tarnovo, a town that you simply have to include in your trip. With its multiple attractions, such as the Tsarevets Castle, and the actual site of the town itself, Veliko Tarnovo has to be one of the most attractive places in the country.

The town is not arranged with the usual town centre in the middle and other buildings emerging from it. Instead, it has a semi-circular shape, just round the bend in the river that divides the place in half. On one side of the Ushaped city is the magnificent Tsarevets Castle, 40

while at the opposite end you will find old houses sitting on pebbled streets.

Getting into the narrow roads with a car can be quite tricky, but it will all be worth your while, once you arrive at your accommodation.

The nightlife in Veliko Tarnovo is bustling.

There are some good restaurants – one of which is ‘Rich Restaurant’, with amazing views of the bend in the river. There are also some good bars or cocktail lounges that can make for a good night out.

Never would I have imagined that the seven lakes of Rila would offer such a feast for the eyes.

The whole trek (which will include all seven lakes) will take between four and six hours. The first stop can be reached by a lift which takes about 20 minutes and the rest will depend on the strength of your feet.

The track is a mix of uphill walking, plain terrain and rocks – and all in the scorching heat of the sun if, like me, you are going in summer.

The possible heat stroke will be worth your while.

The views are amazing and if you are lucky, you might even get to see some beautiful wild horses.

Plovdiv

Just some good old trekking tips: Wear good shoes Use sun protection Take plenty of water Take some food with you as there is nowhere to buy snacks at 2,500 metres above sea level!

The drive from Veliko Tarnovo to Rila can easily take more than four hours, perhaps a bit longer that you would want on a short European holiday.

So we chose a place in which to stop half-way through our journey, somewhere that would serve for a nice, one-night pit stop.

Being a traveller who does not usually like bustling cities, I wanted to keep Plovdiv out of my road trip map. I now realise that this would have been a huge mistake. The old centre of Bulgaria’s

I did not include other very famous places to visit in Bulgaria, namely towns on the Black Sea coast such as Varna, Sozopol and Nessebar. Seven nights proved to be too not enough to include these in my itinerary. So my suggestions, in my opinion, this underrated Eastern European country can easily turn out to be a 10 to 15-day trip. One thing is for sure: renting a car for mobility is essential.

PROMOTION

TURNING ORGANIC WASTE INTO A VALUABLE RESOURCE:

A CALL FOR ACTION ecent figures show that organic waste accounts for roughly half of the waste we dispose of every day in the black bag which is collected on a door-to-door basis in Malta and Gozo. This waste, rich in energy, nutrients and water, ends up being dumped in landfills. Burying organic waste in landfill is a big problem and it’s not just because of the resources we lose.

When organic waste is dumped in landfill, it undergoes anaerobic decomposition and generates methane gas. When released into the atmosphere, methane is 25 times more potent a greenhouse gas than carbon dioxide, contributing to global warming.

To address this issue, on 31st October 2018, WasteServ launched a nationwide organic waste collection. This initiative was built on the success of a pilot project launched in 2015, when all the localities in Gozo and 9 localities in Malta were invited to participate in recycling organic waste. This new waste collection, taking place every Monday, Wednesday and Friday, follows the nationwide distribution of green organic waste collection bins, and accompanying white collection bags. It also builds upon the Abandonment, Dumping and Disposal of Waste in Streets and Public Places or Areas Regulations which are aimed at bettering our environment, whilst also conditioning our civic duty through measures such as taking out the right bag on the right day and the provision of waste separation during public events.

All organic waste collected in the white bag is taken to the Sant Antnin Waste Treatment Plant at Marsascala where, after being checked, it is placed into a waste digester to decompose. This process yields several byproducts including compost and heat.

Interestingly, some of this heat generated by recycling organic waste is used to warm the water in the swimming pool of the Inspire Foundation which is used for therapeutic swimming.

The Sant Antnin Waste Treatment Plant can treat organic material, which includes soiled paper and napkins, all cooked and raw food including bones, fish and shellfish, bread and pasta, rotten fruit and vegetables, fruit and vegetable peels, tea bags and ground coffee, egg shells, leaves and flowers.

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More information is available at www.wasteservmalta.com or by calling the freephone number 8007 2200.

PROJECT PART-FINANCED BY THE EUROPEAN UNION

COLLECTION OF

ORGANIC WASTE EVERY MONDAY, WEDNESDAY & FRIDAY

Freephone 8007 2200 www.wasteservmalta.com

Operational Programme l – European Structural and Investment Funds 2014 – 2020 “Fostering a competitive and sustainable economy to meet our challenges” Project part-financed by the Cohesion Fund Co-financing rate: 85% European Union; 15% National Funds

Photo by Joanna Demarco

ARCHITECTURE

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ARCHITECTURE

DESIGNING BEYOND THE VISUAL

ANN DINGLI INTERVIEWS VALENTINO ARCHITECTS, AN EMERGING MALTESE ARCHITECTURE PRACTICE THAT IS WINNING AWARDS AND CARVING OUT AN ELEGANTLY MEASURED APPROACH TO CREATING ENDURING ARCHITECTURE ON THE MALTESE ISLANDS.

he whole island will be obliterated by buildings. And this will take very little time”, said scores of social media warriors, as saga after saga of local development travesties blotted their news feeds. Or, projected the architectural critic over 50 years ago in a special edition of the Architectural Review. By now, we’ve all been more or less reminded of Quentin Hughes’ assessment and it has become wildly convenient to quote accepted authorities for the purpose of criticising collectively mourned problems. But the wanton bootlegging of their prophetic wisdom doesn’t make it any less relevant and many people in Malta believe that we are standing not at the precipice, but in the boiling hot centre of what Hughes once predicted would happen.▶

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ARCHITECTURE ◀ But meanwhile, amidst the raging – and largely legitimate – complaints, there are a few people trying to shine a light on what is good and what can get better. Enter Valentino Architects, a young practice that is quietly carving out a design approach based on the belief that Malta needs more than buildings that cut a good commercial figure. They were recently awarded the Premju Emanuele Luigi Galizia by the Chamber of Architects and Civil Engineers of Malta (Kamra tal-Periti) for best interior project, and emerging architect; accolades they equate with recognition from their peers within the architectural community, and a mark that their practice has established itself seriously within that very community.

Speaking at the presentation, Professor Richard England – who, after Malta became independent created a style of architecture that helped define the national identity of the Islands – said of the award: “This is exactly what Malta needs at this particular moment. Architecture seems to have lost its spirit and degenerated into what I term ‘construction’”.

His own generation of architects is wellversed on the dangers of hyper-development as a result of a swift economic upturn and the subsequent boom in building. It has already happened – in the 1980s, which was when people first started waving their fists and quoting Hughes. We seem to be back there again: at a loss as to what comes next or what might be the solution; scrambling to understand if we can fix what has gone wrong or whether it’s now too late.

landscape and size. They are also working to secure work abroad in order to broaden their experience. “International work is the next step in our studio’s development, be it through architectural competitions and/or commissions. We are currently working for a local client on the design of a hairdressing salon that will be situated in a prestigious hotel in Budapest, which we are quite excited about.”

Despite the attractiveness of the studio’s architecture, theirs is an approach which they describe as ‘going beyond the visual’. “We shouldn’t be talking about a specific aesthetic when assessing quality in architecture. Quality architecture seeks to offer solutions to problems, to create relationships between natural and man-made, to work within its context, to be inherently sustainable, and so on. It is these ‘hidden’ aspects which truly deliver quality.”

“THE BEAUTY, AND CHALLENGE, OF ARCHITECTURE IS THAT YOUR WORK IS AROUND FOR MANY YEARS,” THEY MUSE, “CREATING THE BACKDROP FOR DIFFERENT ENCOUNTERS IN LIFE. WE OPERATE ON THE NOTION THAT BUILDING GOOD WORK IS A LONG-TERM INVESTMENT TO OUR STUDIO’S SUSTAINABILITY. BECAUSE WHEN THE BUILDING BOOM IS OVER, WHO WILL REMAIN AFLOAT?”

Peter and Sandro Valentino’s evaluation of the situation is more calm than cross, more careful and less reactionary than might be expected of two young designers who – along with their fellow Premju Emanuele Luigi Galizia winners – have been described

by Professor England as ‘the future of Malta’.

When asked how they negotiate their own viability in a building boom landscape, their answer is that it’s all about playing the long game. “The beauty – and challenge – of architecture is that your work is around for many years,” they say, “creating the backdrop for different encounters in life. We operate on the notion that building good work is a long-term investment in our studio’s sustainability, because when the building boom is over, who will remain afloat?”

So far, Valentino Architects’ work has mainly been in the form of small to medium-sized domestic and commercial projects that are characterised visually by elegant economy – of scale, colour and material. Their interiors befit the style of the contemporary Mediterranean professional that has not yet even been discovered. Their buildings resist stereotypical solutions to planning projects and, instead, return to the idea of working with the Islands’ unique temperature, 46

So, is looking further than skin-deep the answer to Malta’s seemingly out of control construction scenario?

Valentino Architects would bank on it. But they also insist on maintaining a level of perspective amidst the apparent construction panic. “If you look back at the last 40 years [in Malta], there has consistently been an equal number of good and bad projects,” they assert. “The situation is no different today. What is different is the density of the built environment, so every mistake – and triumph – is highly pronounced. Malta needs to realise that the policies being implemented now will shape the built environment we live in for many years to come and this places a big responsibility on the architectural community and on society at large. But we must be careful not to only point fingers at planning policies.

“One very rarely receives an architectural commission to build beautifully for the joy of building beautifully, but rather, we work in a culture of ‘I will only invest in x, if I get x + y in return’. This is not necessarily bad at every level, because projects do need to make financial sense. But when such a large part of the economy is rooted in construction then the repercussions are clear. The Taj Mahal would not have been so beautiful if the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan had requested three quotations and decided on the lowest. In an economy as bustling as ours, where have these projects gone?”

Without entirely realising it, Valentino Architects have answered their own question in the form of their built portfolio. Their answer – within this supposed apocalyptical context – is to build buildings that confidently look beyond it: to design buildings that look good and perform well without there being an overt demand for them to do so.

When asked to describe Malta’s current architectural wellbeing, they say: “It’s on a knife’s edge” – that it could go either way. But if their long game maintains its stylish stamina, they may well tip the scales in the right direction.

Photo by Alex Attard

ARCHITECTURE

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CONSERVING THE GALLARIJA IN MARSAMXETT

This scheme which is part of a wider initiative to regenerate the lower part of Valletta seeks to help alleviate the financial cost of restoring and maintaining traditional balconies, especially those made out of timber, in order to encourage their continued use.

The grant scheme is being made available for open and closed balconies within properties that are used as residences.This excludes offices, commercial buildings, non government organisations or religious buildings.

THE PLANNING AUTHORITY IN COLLABORATION WITH THE PARLIAMENTARY SECRETARY FOR EU FUNDS AND SOCIAL DIALOGUE HAVE LAUNCHED A â‚Ź2 MILLION BALCONY GRANT SCHEME FOR RESIDENCES WITHIN THE MARSAMXETT AREA OF VALLETTA.

To encourage residents to take up this one time opportunity and help improve the quality of life within this area, the scheme will fully fund the works associated with the restoration or replacement of the open or timber balcony.

80% of the grant scheme will be paid for by EU funds, while the remaining 20% will be covered by the Planning Authority's Irrestawra Darek initiative.

The scheme will close on the 31st January 2019 or earlier if the funds are exhausted.The works related to the restoration or replacement of the balconies must be completed by 30th September 2019.

For more information visit www.pa.org.mt, call on 2290 1551/1555 or send an email to: vallettamarsamxett@pa.org.mt

INTERIORS

SYMMETRICAL AND SLEEK DESIGN NOTES BY VALENTINO ARCHITECTS FROM THEIR WORK ON CASA ELLUL’S SUITE NINE AND RISETTE.

View of the suite from the WC. A black slate wash hand basin is shared between the WC and the wet room behind the dividing mirror. Mirror was also used on the ceilings to heighten the feeling of space. Photo by David Zammit 49

INTERIORS

A timber panelled wall on a black slate stepped plinth conceals three identical doors – one which leads to the suite’s entrance, one to the WC, and one to the wet room – designed to add an element of discovery to the end user’s experience of the suite. The dark spaces behind the panelling were designed to contrast with the bright bedroom. Photo by David Zammit

The slate clad wet room, positioned on the hotel’s façade. The use of mirror on the walls and ceiling were designed to heighten the feeling of space.

Photo by David Zammit

alletta boutique hotel Casa Ellul was originally designed in 2014 by Chris Briffa Architects.

More recently, Valentino Architects was tasked to design an extention to the hotel, in the form of a new hotel suite as to organise the hotel’s ground floor layout to accomodate a restaurant; the elegant Risette. Inspired by the work that was already present, Valentino Architects reintegrated the design focusing on symmetry, contrasting colours and space. ▶

Bianco Carrara floor and extended headboard in Suite Nine – dark green curtains were chosen to complement the dark red Persian rug beneath the custom made bed by camilleriparismode. Photo by Alex Attard

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Image: Dean Gera – Phoenicia Hotel. Material: Bianco Carrara and Yves Saint Laurent Marble.

INTERIORS

The ground floor annex to Casa Ellul, designed to mirror the space previously occupied by the hotel’s reception across the hall. A golden upholstered bench with a planter behind was designed to contrast with the dark, formal space.

Photo by Alex Attard

View of one half of Risette from the entrance hall, characterized by the dark timber panelled walls which mirror the design of Casa Ellul’s original reception across the hall – now re-purposed as the other half of Risette, and by the iconic Gebruder Thonet Vienna bentwood chairs. Photo by Alex Attard

SUPPLIERS

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Narrow beam spotlights provide lighting which is focused on the Bianco Carrara table tops, making the food the focal point of the dining experience. Photo by Alex Attard

Halmann Vella was the main contractor of the Suite Nine and Risette project.The joinery works were contracted to S.A.W. Ltd, whilst camilleriparismode carried out the fabrics work.

FOOD

MEZZE

By The Mediterranean Culinary Academy

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FOOD

Falafel (Serves 5 )

The wonderful texture of this falafel comes from using dried chickpeas that are soaked overnight to soften and then fried in hot oil.

Using canned chickpeas, or baking them instead of frying, will produce a result that pales in comparison. These mezze favourites are incredibly simple to mix together and once shaped into individual patties can be frozen on a tray and stored in a reusable container in the freezer for a good few months as a way of always having them on hand. They can just as easily be fried from frozen and warmed through in the oven.

INGREDIENTS: 375g dried chickpeas 3 spring onions A large handful each of mint and parsley 6 cloves of garlic 1 tablespoon of cumin seeds, crushed 1 tablespoon of coriander seeds, crushed 20g of salt 2 litres of vegetable oil for frying METHOD: 1. Place chickpeas in a large container and cover with enough water to allow them to expand in size and still be submerged, using roughly three times as much water as chickpeas. Allow to soak overnight.

2. Dry the chickpeas and place in the bowl of a food processor with the herbs, spring onions, garlic, crushed cumin and coriander seeds. Pulse until a coarse paste is formed, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. The consistency should be such that you can squeeze a ball of the mix together in the palm of your hand.

3. Place the mixture in a bowl, cover and allow to rest in the fridge for 20 minutes.

4. Once rested, take a tablespoonful of the mixture and use your hands to shape into small balls or patties and arrange on a tray lined with foil.

5. Half-fill a large pan with the oil and heat until the oil reaches 190°C (375ºF)*.

6. Carefully place each falafel in the oil, one at a time, evenly spaced out: cook in batches to avoid overcrowding the pan.

If the oil starts to cool, bring it back to the required temperature before continuing.

7. Cook for about 3-4 minutes or until evenly browned.

Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel or a wire rack. Season with salt and serve immediately.

* If you do not have a thermometer, you can check that the oil is at the required temperature (190ºC/350ºF) by dropping a grain of rice into the pan. If it pops up to the surface and starts cooking, then the oil is at the right temperature.

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FOOD Even after just a few hours, this yoghurt-based marinade leaves chicken fork-tender and allows it to develop a beautiful colour and texture. You can leave the chicken marinating for just a few hours or up to 12: the longer you leave it, the more tender and flavourful it will be

Shish Taouk (Serves 5 )

INGREDIENTS: 600g chicken thighs, cubed 100g plain yoghurt 25ml olive oil 2 cloves garlic, crushed Juice of half a lemon ½ teaspoon allspice ½ teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon cumin seed ½ teaspoon dried chilli ½ teaspoon sumac

METHOD: 1. Grind oregano and spices in a pestle & mortar to a coarse consistency then add the minced garlic. Mix to form a paste.

2. Combine the paste with the yoghurt, lemon juice and a generous pinch of salt to create a marinade. Taste for seasoning.

3. Coat the chicken liberally in the marinade and leave to marinate for at least an hour or up to 12.

4. Once marinated, use gloved hands to put chicken cubes on skewers.

5. Put a generous glug of olive oil in a pan and place over a medium-high heat.

Drain any excess marinade from the skewers and cook for two minutes on each side, or until nicely browned and cooked through completely. Keep warm or serve immediately.

The characteristic smoky flavour of this dip is made by charring the skin of the aubergine. The skin will be inedible but the charring gives the flesh a lovely flavour. This process can be done under the overhead grill of an oven or charred over the open flame of a barbecue.

Baba Ghanoush

(Serves 5 )

METHOD: Preheat the overhead grill of an oven. Pierce the aubergines all over with a fork and place on a baking tray lined with foil.

1. Place the tray directly under the grill and cook until charred, roughly 15 minutes. Rotate the aubergines and char for a further 15 minutes.

2. Grind the garlic in a pestle & mortar with a pinch of salt to create a paste. Remove the garlic paste and combine with the tahini and juice of a lemon.

3. Once charred and tender, remove the aubergines and cut in half lengthways.

INGREDIENTS: 3 large aubergines 3 cloves garlic, minced 50ml olive oil 60g Tahini Lemon juice to taste Salt to taste

4. When cool enough to handle, remove flesh with a spoon and put into a mixing bowl. If you prefer a thicker consistency, drain the flesh into the bowl through a strainer lined with cloth.

5. Add the tahini and garlic paste into the mixing bowl with a generous pinch of salt and then mix the aubergine while slowly pouring in the extra virgin olive oil.

6. Taste and correct seasoning as needed with salt, lemon juice and/or tahini.

Serve with a generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil as well as minced herbs, ground spices or pomegranate seeds.

These recipes were taken from the‘Sharing Plates’ team building events which are available now as well as the upcoming “Cuisines of the Maghreb and Arab Levant” course which starts in January. For more information about courses, workshops or private events, check out the website of Mediterranean Culinary Aacademy at www.mcamalta.com, Facebook: Mediterranean culinary academy or Instagram: Mediterranean_Culinary_Academy 56

Epale Awards - FIRST Magazine.indd 1

06/11/2018 09:41

HEALTH

A HEALTHY

DIET AND OTHER WAYS OF KEEPING (TYPE 2) DIABETES AWAY IN THE LIGHT OF DIABETES AWARENESS MONTH, AND WITH MALTA STILL HAVING ONE OF THE HIGHEST RATES OF DIABETES IN THE EU, FIRST SPOKE TO DIABETES SPECIALIST DR MARIO J. CACHIA ABOUT THE CONDITION. Words by Dayna Clarke.

iabetes – we have all heard of it. Some of us know there are basically two different types, some of us know someone with the condition, but how many of us actually know what it is or, crucially, how you can prevent becoming Type 2 diabetic?

November is World Diabetes Awareness month, and with Malta having one of the highest rates of diabetes in the EU, can we afford to ignore it? We spoke to Dr Mario J. Cachia, Consultant Endocrinologist – a specialist in diabetes and university lecturer – to dispel the myths and discuss the reality of the situation in Malta.

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HEALTH

Are you at risk?

Over 40,000 people in Malta have diabetes, a condition characterised by high blood sugar levels. First things first, let us set the record straight. There are two main types of diabetes: Type 1 and Type 2. Type 1 diabetes (also called juvenile-onset or insulin-dependent diabetes) is the rarer type of diabetes and is a condition where your body does not produce insulin. Without insulin, cells cannot absorb sugar (glucose), which we need to produce energy.

Type 2 diabetes (commonly known as ‘non-insulin-dependent diabetes’) can develop at any age and most commonly becomes apparent during adulthood. It is the more common type and accounts for the vast majority of people who have diabetes, roughly 90-95 per cent of all sufferers. Worryingly, the incidence of Type 2 diabetes in children is rising.

While the number of people with diabetes in Malta is very high, many more people are estimated to have the condition but do not know it and many others are at a high risk of contracting it. Dr Cachia explained the following risk factors:

Being overweight Being overweight greatly increases your risk of developing Type 2 diabetes. Make sure you are getting your five portions of fruit and vegetables a day, along with plenty of fibre (wholemeal bread, wholegrain cereals, nuts, seeds and bran). “A healthy balanced diet is integral to preventing diabetes,” said Dr Cachia, adding: “Unfortunately, here in Malta we are seeing a great loss of the true ‘Mediterranean diet.” This comes as no surprise as Malta has one of the highest rates of obesity in Europe, coupled with many people having a sedentary lifestyle and a greater consumption of ‘convenience food’. Ensuring your weight is a healthy one is a great start to preventing Type 2 diabetes.▶

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The ‘inevitability’ misconception “The main misconception we face that has serious consequences is inevitability, said Dr Cachia. “We frequently find that people with diabetes – or those at high risk – don’t bother to look after themselves because they assume they will get the same complications (amputations, blindness, kidney problems) as other members of their family. In fact, with good diabetes care (ie regular medical checks, taking medication as prescribed, a good diet, exercise and no smoking) life expectancy should be as good as other people,” he explained.

Consult your doctor if you have any symptoms

Dr Mario J. Cachia

A lack of exercise Physical activity can help prevent Type 2 diabetes by increasing the use of glucose by the muscles, stimulating more efficient use of insulin and helping people to lose weight. Recently, researchers combining data from 28 previous studies found that those who did the equivalent of 150 minutes of moderate aerobic activity a week were 26 per cent less likely to have Type 2 diabetes. Many people who learn they are at risk of developing the condition because they are overweight can sometimes find the idea of exercise daunting. If you can’t think of anything worse than going to the gym or out for a run, remember that ‘moderate exercise’ is anything that makes your heart beat faster and feeling a little out of breath. “Malta has seen a sharp rise in the number of people following a sedentary lifestyle,” added Dr Cachia. Try making small changes, such as getting off the bus a stop before where you usually get off, or parking the car a bit further away.

Sugary drinks and alcohol Drinking too much alcohol can increase the risk of Type 2 diabetes by reducing insulin sensitivity, triggering chronic pancreatitis and boosting weight gain. Recent research has also found

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WE FREQUENTLY FIND THAT PEOPLE WITH DIABETES – OR THOSE AT HIGH RISK – DON’T BOTHER TO LOOK AFTER THEMSELVES BECAUSE THEY ASSUME THEY WILL GET THE SAME COMPLICATIONS (AMPUTATIONS, BLINDNESS, KIDNEY PROBLEMS) AS OTHER MEMBERS OF THEIR FAMILY. that each additional regular daily 200ml serving of sweetened drink (such as cola, lemonade or energy drinks) per cent. A 330ml can of “full fat” Coca-Cola contains 35g of sugar – which is far higher than the daily recommended amount.

Once detected, diabetes can be effectively managed; failure to do so can lead to blindness, limb amputation, kidney failure, stroke and death. In Type 2 diabetes, the symptoms can take time to progress.

Contact your GP if you have any of the following: Frequent urination Feeling very thirsty and drinking a lot Feeling very hungry Feeling very fatigued Blurry vision

Cuts or sores that do not heal properly Positively, Malta is well-equipped to support people with diabetes, with specialist clinics, medical professionals and support charities.

“The development of treatments for diabetes has made great strides over the past 10 years or so,” said Dr Cachia. “Unfortunately, many of these new preparations are very expensive. Recently, two new ones, which are available on the private market, have been proved to increase cardiovascular survival. There is great hope for the future with pharmacology as well as the National Strategy for Diabetes in Malta,” he added.

For further information visit https://www.diabetesmalta.org/

The Maltese Diabetes Association – Ghaqda Maltija kontra d-Dijabete was established as a nongovernmental non-profit voluntary organisation in 1981.

Its mission is to create awareness and education campaigns on Diabetes and to support persons living with diabetes, their carers and families.

The Association's Headquarters are found in Valletta at 74/1, Melita Street,Valletta.

The Maltese Diabetes Association are active members of the International Diabetes Federation – European Region and are enrolled with the Commissioner of Voluntary Organisations in Malta - VO/0704.

For further information, please contact Mr. Chris J. Delicata, President on cjd@diabetesmalta.org or visit the Association website on www.diabetesmalta.org.

Above events supported by:

ARTS

ZIGUZAJG .

First spoke to Ziguzajg festival organiser Stephanie Bonnici about this year’s event and the importance of providing young people with a platform. oung people will not only make up the audience in this year’s edition of Żiguzajg, but will also be taking centre stage through novel performances. Two plays – Play|Ground and iLand – are putting Malta’s younger generation on a public platform, tackling important issues such as the environment and technology, whilst at the same time providing a peephole into what it is like to be a teen in Malta today.

“It may sound obvious,” one of the event organisers, Stephanie Bonnici, told First, “but today’s teenagers will grow up to be tomorrow’s adults and society’s future leaders. The arts give these young people a sense of place and a sense of presence in today’s world. It allows them to express themselves, and to work out their thoughts, on a public platform. Today’s teenagers have more pressure placed on them than previous generations.”

Play|Ground, by ŻfinMalta, is a piece devised by a group of 14 young dancers. Under the direction of Artistic Director Paolo Mangiola and choreographer Marie Keiser-Nielsen, they have imagined a dystopian fairy-tale, in which the audience will be shown glimpses of a possible future world. It is really a call to society to love the world more than we are doing.

The work created by Studio 18 in collaboration with Valletta 2018 – iLand – focuses more on teenagers’ identities and is about an underground meet-up – a social bubble – and the maze that teenagers have to negotiate in their daily lives.

For Stephanie, discussions and openness with regard to such topics are vital.

“Whether these are pressures brought about by technology and social media, or the impending environmental reality, it’s important that young people are 62

given space to work through these stresses, to grow into healthy, well-balanced adults.” Żiguzajg is, of course, always targeted at young people, ranging from babies to teenagers. However, this is the first edition in which so many young people not only make up the audience, but are also part of the productions themselves, using the stage as a platform, both literally and figuratively. For Stephanie and the rest of the team, this was an important step on a professional level in order to train and encourage the next generation of young performers and let them experience working in a professional setting. “We wanted to allow their voices to be heard, while also giving them a professional setting in which to work and grow,” she said. “We also believe it’s important for young audiences to see other young people performing and to be inspired by them.”

Although more youth-centric, the festival’s calendar of events in not aimed solely at young adults. The events also include a vibrant parade around the streets of Valletta (Barra bid-Daqq), an interactive installation in St George’s Square (Ċaqlembut), two films, two exhibitions and lots and lots of fantastic performances varying from contemporary circus and puppetry to opera and dance theatre, among others. There is a diversity of works on offer include those that engage the tiniest of toddlers, to a body-percussion performance (SOLEO), a fun musical theatre piece with The New Victorians (Rave & Behave), and a children’s opera (Amahl and the Night Visitors)!

More information about the festival and this year’s calendar of events can be found on http://www.ziguzajg.org/

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