SAILING TO THE IONION ISLANDS I THE MALTA RAILWAY I LIVING WITH CANCER MAKING BREAD I CHARLIE CHAPLIN I CATCHING UP WITH IAN PETER BUGEJA I WE MEET THE CLOUDED REVOLUTION I MALTESE LITERATURE I BEAUTY I FASHION I COMPETITIONS
OCTOBER 2015
Photograph by Alan Carville
A fashionable take Is it only me, or does everyone have trouble packing a suitcase? I wish I was one of those organised women who pack only the bare essentials and always manage to look naturally fashionable. As it is, I cram in another item at the last second – stuffing it in through the partly-opened zip after it’s already been closed – and finding out half-way through the trip that I won’t wear even half of what I brought with me. How do some of you out there get it right every time – or are you the same? Last weekend was no different and I had such high hopes of being minimal and easy-going. I think it is time to listen to fashion advice and I’m pleased to have fashion bloggers The Clouded Revolution writing for First to share their wisdom and inspiration to all of us who need it! As well as their regular trendsetting ideas for men and women, we also meet this trio of friends who created the popular Maltese fashion blog inside this issue (page 58). Continuing the flow of fashion, we look back in time to the classic brand Chanel, with the making of their hand-crafted shoes (page 40), the 5-day Spring Summer 2016 runway shows for London Fashion Week last September (page 32), and Photographer Federico Peltretti presents the latest must-haves from Mei, 1-2-3, Porto and Debenhams (page 33). We sail to the Ionian Islands – west of Greece, reminisce about the beautiful Maltese railways of yesteryear, cook bread from the Faroe Islands (page 51), catch up with Ian Peter Bugeja who is preparing for his next concert performance at The National Portrait Gallery in London (page 28), and find inspiration from Claire Bugelli from Bounce Life Coaching about living with breast cancer (page 56). Till next time, kick back and enjoy the autumn breeze.
EDITOR LILY AGIUS LAGIUS@INDEPENDENT.COM.MT ADVERTISING & ADVERT PLACEMENTS CLAIRE BONDIN GAFA CGAFA@INDEPENDENT.COM.MT DESIGNER CONRAD BONDIN CBONDIN@INDEPENDENT.COM.MT ARTISTIC DIRECTOR SEAN ELLUL PRODUCTION MANAGER ANDRE CAMILLERI ACAMILLERI@INDEPENDENT.COM.MT ARTWORK COORDINATOR CHRISTINE SPITERI CMIFSUD@INDEPENDENT.COM.MT CONTRIBUTORS ALBERT DELIA, CLAIRE BUGELLI, CORYSE BORG, DINI MARTINEZ, DOMINA RIZKOVA, FEDERICO PELTRETTI, GORG MALLIA, HENRY PETERSEN, IAN PETER BUGEJA, JONATHAN BORG, JUDY FALZON, KURT PARIS, THE CLOUDED REVOLUTION. PUBLISHER STANDARD PUBLICATIONS, STANDARD HOUSE, BIRKIKARA HILL, ST JULIAN’S. TEL. 00356-2134-5888 PRINTER PRINT IT EMAIL FIRST@INDEPENDENT.COM.MT ONLINE WWW.INDEPENDENT.COM.MT FACEBOOK FIRSTMAGAZINE. COVER DETAILS TROUSERS AND SHIRT FROM 1-2-3; SHOES FROM ALDO SHOES AND ACCESSORIES; SQUADRA BLU NECKLACE AND RING FORM PORTO; NOUR BRACELET (LEFT HAND) AND EARRINGS FROM PORTO; STAMERRA BRACELET (RIGHT HAND) FROM PORTO; BETTY BARCLAY BAG FROM MEI; DOLCE & GABBANA SUNGLASSES FROM O’HEA. BY FEDERICO PELTRETTI FIRST IS PUBLISHED EVERY MONTH AS A COMPLIMENTARY MAGAZINE WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY AND IS NOT TO BE SOLD SEPARATELY.
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Inside 6 FIRST WORD
With architect Konrad Buhagiar
8 SAILING
The crystal blue seas of the Ionian islands
12 THE MALTA RAILWAY
Albert Delia rides the tracks of the past
20 FAST PACED AVENTURE
The latest children’s book in Maltese
25 A SLAPSTICK GENIUS
The one and only Charlie Chaplin
30 48 FASHION TIPS
For the gentlemen from The Clouded Revolution
51 YOUR DAILY BREAD
Cooking bread the Faroese way
56 LIVING WITH CANCER
28 BAROQUE – C’EST MOI
While speaking out to Claire at Bounce Life Coaching
33 REVOLUTION ROAD
With The Clouded Revolution
We catch up with Ian Peter Bugeja This issue’s fashion feature
46 FASHION TIPS
For the ladies from The Clouded Revolution
58 LAST WORD
60 SOCIAL WHIRL
Snaps from events happening abroad and on our shores
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42 SEND us YOUR COMMENTS To FIRST magazine, Standard Publications Ltd., B’kara Hill, St Julian’s.
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first word
Architect Konrad Buhagiar, founding partner of Architecture Project, lives in Valletta at his office accompanied by close to 50 young, talented guys and girls during the day and with one or more young talented guys or girls in the evening at one of the nearby watering holes and restaurants – namely Trabaxu or Harbour Club.
Photo by Luis Rodríguez. www.luisrl.com
From the top: Konrad Buhagiar at his home in Sliema; a clay ‘scugnizzo’ passed down to his from one of his ancestors; the chapel of Notre Dame du Haut at Ronchamp by Le Corbusier; a book of poems. restaurants are filled with books and people who talk with passion about ideas and about things that don’t cost money. In today’s world, that’s spectacular.
My favourite space in my house is my dining room, where
a clay painted ‘scugnizzo’ that one of my great, great-uncles must have brought back as a souvenir from Naples. It conjures up images of the Costa Amalfitana in the inter-war period: paradise.
The object I would never part with is
I’ve spent many happy hours at table with family and friends.
The most inspirational person in my life was perhaps John
Ruskin. Totally Victorian, not at all trendy, but even Churchill, Gandhi and Mao confessed to have been inspired by his writings, so I guess I am in good company.
The most unforgettable place I visited was the chapel of NotreDame du Haut at Ronchamp by Le Corbusier. I was just 16 – alone and homesick – and I stumbled across this church in the country by chance. That was the magical moment when I decided I would become an architect. The last place I visited was Saint-Tropez. I had loads of fun. The last thing I added to my wardrobe was a black Diesel
My latest creation is of a temple-like stone box to contain
the triumph of the Eucharist as conceived and explained by Peter Paul Rubens and Isabella, Infanta of Spain.
I would like to learn how to speak and read German. I got as
far as my O-level but that’s not even remotely sufficient to read and appreciate Kant and Hegel.
The thing you will always find in my fridge is a bottle of white wine (obviously) and a tub of blueberries.
The book I am reading is Liquid Modernity by Zygmunt Bauman. Thanks to this book, I can now, thankfully, understand my Generation Y friends.
If I could get away for the day it would have to be to Rome, the city where I spent the best years of my life, where everything is forever unchanged, where the people are like family, the buildings like friends, the food like home and all within walking distance… The Eternal City.
jacket with a denim collar and studs for buttons. Sounds awful but it’s elegant I promise and works for fun times and for funerals both.
My most recent find is an abandoned church in Marasala. It
The best gift I have received recently was a first, numbered
The website I will often browse is the New Yorker. Everything
edition of Paroles, Prevert’s book of poems. Perfectly romantic.
was like entering a scene in a film by Anthony Minghella, the space, the colours, the light – pure Italy.
in New York is 20 years ahead of everywhere else. Try watching Sex and the City again!
The last song I listened to was by Madonna. I don’t know the The most beautiful building in the world is the Pantheon in title but the lyrics include the words ‘Into your eyes my face remains’. They’re stuck in my mind.
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An indulgence I would never give up is, of course, wine. It is one of the oldest and greatest inventions of mankind, and thanks to its heady effects I have been able to come up with unorthodox ideas, make lasting friendships and live great moments.
Rome. I can’t explain why – it just is.
The most spectacular city in the world is Paris.
Cafés and
One thing I never get around to doing and wish to is fixing the showerhead in the upstairs bathroom.
If had no choice but to change my line of work I would love to be a pilot. That way I would have to overcome my fear of flying. My most luxurious habit is taking a painting back home when it talks to me – when it’s in a shop, of course, and not in a museum!
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THE IONIAN
Tops and flops in the lush, green, Italianised Greek Islands Dini Martinez, live-aboard sailor and master of locating secret spots of unique beauty from another world, shares travel stories from the Ionian Sea
G
reece is famous for its paradise islandsof which there are some 6,000, and including all of them, along with the indented mainland coast, it has over 7,000 miles of coastline. The Ionian Islands – from Kerkira near Albania to Antikythira near Crete – are closest to Malta: a four-day sail on any small sailing yacht or a short flight to Zakinthos, Cephalonia, Patras or Preveza. Given this number of international airports, plus numerous national and international ferry ports, it is not surprising that, each summer, tourists from the UK, Germany and elsewhere sweep into the Ionian Sea by air or yacht charter. Nevertheless, it is still possible to find that unique ‘Greek-ness’ and breathe in the mindblowing beauty of this area away from it all.
Laganas Beach in Zakintosh — Italianised town and English pastures
Zakintosh has a ferry port and airport with regular charter flights from the UK. This could say it all – but it doesn’t. Despite the British pubs and massive hotels, there is a certain charm to this lush green island. Bustling Zakintosh town itself feels typically Italian, with pizza and pasta served next to Greek suvlaki, live music played in every piazza and delicious icecream shops near every cathedral. The Venetians used to call it ‘the flower of the Levant’ and, together with Athenians, Romans, Vandals, Normans, Turks, French, Russians and British, they have all had a historic share in this strategic port. Shortly after arriving, we became involuntarily stuck in Zakintosh port for almost a week. With unsubstantiated forecasts of gale-force winds, the neighbouring day-trip ferries had us barricaded in. They had buried our anchor under their
massive chains and restrained our boat under their colossal bowlines like a fly trapped in a spider web. Trying to escape their hectic chaos ended in a lot of Greek-style shouting and unorthodox hand-gesturing. Luckily, the first impressions didn’t last. As we rode our bikes past green slopes dotted with grazing cows, we fell in love with rural Zakintosh and its plains full of vines, figs and olives, and groves of oranges and lemons. Just before dusk, we arrived at Laganas beach just before dusk, which was a blessing as the masses – evidenced by the empty deckchairs – had left by then. This nature-reserve is the most important nesting area in the Mediterranean Sea for the loggerhead sea turtle. Thus, unlike many other Greek beaches, there is not a scrap of rubbish in sight. The views are idyllic and the water clear and welcoming. We didn’t mind being chased away as the sun set and the beach closed for turtle time. Next to a mere hand-full of turtle lovers, we picnicked on the dunes behind the beach instead, waiting to watch the babies making their dash down to the sea before the hungry birds could catch them.
Kioni in Ithaka — the tranquil home of Odysseus
From Laganas beach we headed north to Ithaka, the legendary island home of Homer’s Odysseus. There is no geographical evidence of his sumptuous palace, but a local school teacher in Port Polis looks after a small museum housing a collection of items indicating subsequent worship of Odysseus. Kioni is an attractive huddle of white-washed houses around the slopes at the head of a bay in the north-east of the island. It seems to have more houses than people. A large part of the population has emigrated to Australia and in just 20 years the number of pupils in the local school has fallen from around 600 to under 20. From the moment we arrived, it felt like the kind of place that would keep us for much longer than intended. »
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«We loved snorkelling in the deep blue water at dawn, followed by coffee and pastries from the local bakery. Days passed swaying in the tranquillity of this bay – once the sailing charters left town in the late morning after attempting to drink it dry the night before. What’s the point of that senseless rush, I often wonder? I guess each has their own idea of idyllic sailing. For those not afraid of steep slopes, the hinterland provides breath-taking walks and exhilarating bike rides across peaks and through valleys into neighbouring bays. After a week we left, tired of the locals’ rudeness and roughness and the loud drunkenness of charter guests each night. And – well, we live on a boat so it was time to sail on.
Top: Kioni in Ithaka. Above: Zakynthos. Left: Spartakhori in Meganisi
Spartakhori in Meganisi — a most enchanting picture spot
Sailing north through one of the Ionian’s loveliest channels, we stopped at the first of Meganisi’s many indented natural harbours, fringed by olive and cypress trees. Eager for a swim and some refreshment, we blindly followed the wildly articulating hand-gestures from the first pontoon. Now we know that, in Greece, potentially dodgy yacht pontoons are often set up by adjacent taverns. If you moor on those, there are no docking charges, but an unspoken obligation to eat at their place for as long as you stay. The bay could easily win a competition for inclusion in a Greek island paradise brochure. Once we were sated by the crystal clear blue and Greek salads, we headed past the scrubby beach taverna up the hill. Spartakhori, the 10
village perched a pleasant 15-minute walk along a winding cypress-lined road, is quite enchanting and well worth a visit. As often with Greek villages, it is a journey back in time. The older inhabitants hang around outside their houses, watching the frenzied tourists rush by in bewilderment. The houses are just as they should be: freshly painted in white and blue, surrounded by gardenia and other flowers. There were a few small restaurants, tucked away, that looked tempting, but this time we were on a mission to obtain provisions. The local supermarket is a one-room affair selling all the basics, including the fresh produce we were after. It was more expensive than on the Greek mainland – the price of island paradise. Back down at the pontoon, local Mafioso and tavern-
owner Babis is causing havoc as a few other cruisers have dared to dine up in town. He is infamous among the English cruising community and Greek authorities. Now, neither Greek cuisine nor the attitude of the Ionian local attitude is exactly delicate, but Babis went a bit too far, in addition to which his promises of fresh water and a reliable mooring line turn out to be false. Don’t let this deter you from visiting Meganisi – just make a big detour if you hear anyone mention Babis. We left before anyone got into trouble this time, and headed as far south as possible – eventually arriving in beautiful Malta for the winter. Tourists worried about travelling to a Greek Island with refugee problems could steer clear of islands in the eastern Mediterranean. Islands to the west of Greece in the Ionian, such as Corfu, Kefalonia and Zante; to the south in the Cyclades, such as Santorini, Mykonos, Naxos and Paros report no refugee boats arriving on their shores.
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“VAPUR TAL-ART� Albert Delia rides into the past on the Malta railway, a week before the opening to the public of the Floriana Railway Station Tunnel for a day on the 18th of this month
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T
here has been a lot of discussion in recent years about the feasibility of a subway or monorail system for the Maltese Islands. The beginning of the new scholastic year, coupled with the seasonal autumn rainfall, has left many drivers – as well as their vehicles – fuming in seemingly stationery traffic during their morning commute and the idea of effective transport alternatives to the private car begins to seem increasingly attractive. Many people would argue that there is no single solution to the problem of the increasing number of vehicles endlessly driving around through our streets. History may not be considered the first place you would turn
to for a solution to addressing this problem. However, in the years between 1905 and 1929, Malta had a staggering variety of public transport that would be the envy of most people today. For almost a quarter-of-a-century, the country had an active and bustling inter-port sea taxi service, a bus service, a railway and tram line operating simultaneously – not to mention the horse-drawn carriages for hire. Ironically, it was the competition brought about by this diversity of options and a comparatively small market size that resulted in the eventual closure of most public transport methods, leaving buses as the victor to this very day. But since that time, the population has almost doubled, and perhaps it is time to once again look at the solutions of the past to address the problems of the present. »
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«In 1904, at the height of the train line’s popularity, over one million people made use of the train service. Malta Railway, which operated from 1883 to 1931, originally had 10 locomotives designed to service the line’s various needs and was able to move up to 12 carriages at one go. When you consider that, a century ago, the railway journey between Valletta and Mtarfa took only 20 minutes, it becomes apparent that, even with your own vehicle, the same journey today generally takes longer. Throughout this period, Floriana played an extremely important role, acting as a relative
transportation hub heralding passengers on their way to and from Valletta. Floriana had its own tramway station as well as underground train stations. The stations eventually ended up serving as bomb shelters during the Second World War and subsequently as a telephone exchange communications hub between the 1940s and the 1970s. These stations are today in a state of abandonment and have been used as utility conduits for the passing of service cables. Despite their neglect, they nevertheless retain a certain charm and easily elicit a sense of curiosity and fascination in anyone who comes across them. »
WHEN YOU CONSIDER THAT, A CENTURY AGO, IT TOOK ONLY 20 MINUTES TO TRAVEL THE 10 MILES BETWEEN VALLETTA AND MTARFA, IT BECOMES APPARENT THAT, EVEN WITH YOUR OWN VEHICLE, THE SAME JOURNEY TODAY GENERALLY TAKES LONGER. 14
THE STATIONS EVENTUALLY ENDED UP SERVING AS BOMB SHELTERS DURING THE SECOND WORLD WAR AND SUBSEQUENTLY AS A TELEPHONE EXCHANGE COMMUNICATIONS HUB BETWEEN THE 1940S AND THE 1970S. «Today, Floriana still plays an extremely important role, serving as a major artery not only in the country’s land transport grid, but also – with the cruise liner terminal – as the primary port of call for tourists arriving by sea. Although it is unlikely that we will ever see the olive green ‘Vapur tal-art’ once again chugging through our streets, and although the locomotive won’t be waiting at the station, this month people can get a glimpse of the infrastructure that still remains from the heyday of Malta’s public transport. On 18 October between 9am and 4pm, Floriana Local Council will once again be organising Ġenna ta’ Ġonna and one of the 27 events being held throughout the day will be the opening of the underground railway station to the public. The Malta Railway Foundation will be hosting guided tours to the Floriana railway station tunnel, with visits starting from Floriana Methodist Church. For a better understanding of the important link that Floriana has with the country’s transport history, I met up with Matthew Paris, one of Floriana’s local councillors organising this worthy event. One of the first things I am told is that, when it comes to the history of the railway in Malta, one of the foremost authorities on the subject is Paul Galea, who has spent decades researching the subject and will also be leading the tours on the 18th. I asked Matthew if the remaining infrastructure could still be of use, should the country ever decide to re-introduce a rail service. His reply was on the lines of ‘possible, but unlikely’. It may, perhaps, be more feasible to start something from scratch, especially considering the state the old system is currently in, not to mention the fact that the landscape and exigencies have changed since the railway line was originally designed. Nevertheless, such sites are definitely national assets that do not receive the attention they undoubtedly deserve. It is interesting to note that, when the railway was operational, the ‘underground’ stations were the least popular option whereas nowadays, whenever Ġenna ta’ Ġonna is organised, they are one of the biggest attractions. However, in order to make effective use of these sites, considerable funding needs to be dedicated to bringing them back to a presentable and sustainable state. Ġenna ta’ Ġonna is definitely a family outing worth recommending and promises to satisfy the curiosity of all those wishing to obtain rare access to areas not generally open to the public. On the day, visitors may go up to the cupola of Floriana parish church for some of the most breathtaking views on the island. The public shelter and crime museum at Police Headquarters will also be open to the public. Vintage buses will be driving around the city, while classic cars will be seen driving along St Anne Street. This is just some idea of the events arranged for the day and those who go to enjoy it should leave with a better understanding of the importance that this city had – and still has – as a transport hub. 16
IL-PROFESSUR GHASFUR A fast-paced adventure story written in crisp contemporary Maltese • • published by Merlin Publishers. Meet the author, Gorg Mallia.» 20
Ġ
orġ Mallia is a name very intimately connected with the world of books and reading. A researcher, academic, author and illustrator, he is rarely far away from a book. Various other commitments have, however, kept him away from writing children’s literature, so his return to children’s fiction this year is a very welcome comeback after a six-year break. His newest novel, Il-Professur Għasfur, is also his first with publishing house Merlin Publishers. And what a comeback novel it is. Il-Professur Għasfur is a “Gulliver’s Travels” of multidimensionality, where an 11 year old girl – Katrin – finds herself in the laboratory of a very peculiar scientist, nicknamed Professor Bird (il-Professur Għasfur) and together with a very special tortoise, she ends up whizzing from one dimension to the next on board the Professor’s unique and experimental dimensional-travel platform. Each alternate reality presents a “what could have been” version of the world, much to Katrin’s amazement. Even as the Professor is intent on mapping all possible dimensions, the three adventurers find themselves in unexpected, sticky situations and need all their wits to find their way out and safely back home. Mallia is of course a wildly popular cartoon artist, so it is an additional treat for readers of Il-Professur Għasfur to be regaled with his illustrations for the book. Drawn in a cartoony style in lush blacks and grays, the twenty-three illustrations complement the writing, often adding detail to the many characters and contexts that is not evident in the narrative itself so that the words and drawings work hand in hand to tell the whole story. Il-Professur Għasfur will not only appeal to all fantasy and science fiction fans, but also to all those who like a fast-paced adventure story written in crisp contemporary Maltese.
Mallia’s Il-Professur Għasfur is available from all bookshops, or online directly from www.merlinpublishers.com
From where did the inspiration for this book come? Children’s literature has always been a main love in my life. I’ve published quite a few books for kids, but my academic work kept me from writing in this field for at least six years. My last book had been quite wellreceived, but I just did not have the time to take it from there. Then, last summer, I had writer’s block while working on a book that was an academic analysis of visual narrative, and I decided that the only way out of the block was to write something much more creative than what I was struggling to come up with. I pencilled a picture of a character that to my mind immediately become il-Professur Għasfur, and the story just told itself from there. In actual fact, the drawings of the professor on the front and back cover of the book are a modified version of that first sketch. I promised myself I’d write a bit of the story each day, and I kept at it till it developed into the fantasy that it actually is, involving Katrin, the 11-year-old narrator of the story, teaming up with the eccentric, but wonderful Professor and his tortoise (yes, his tortoise)
as they travel from one dimension to the next on the professor’s fantastic platform. Each dimension creates problems they have to deal with, and each dimension is a little bit too close to home when it comes to environmental problems. But, above all else, it’s adventurous fun.
What keeps you writing children’s fiction? Children’s fiction is extremely difficult to write. For it to work well, there needs to be a transposition of the adult mind to the mindset of a child, and specifically the age-bracket child that he or she is writing for. It’s a challenge, but one with so much fruit to reap that it’s definitely worth the effort. Children read, but they only read what they enjoy. So the extra challenge is to write stories that they will love reading. Having an innocuous “story” that serves some sort of didactic or educational purpose is the best possible way to push children away from reading. And that leads to some of the dire circumstances that the non-reading adult public of Malta knows only too well.
My children’s literature has always been driven by plot and character. Because I’m also an illustrator, that provides a double task – I need also to create the visual (and therefore concrete) dimension of what I conceive in literary terms. That is, my characters need to be completely rounded – as human as humanly possible. I often create the characters before I come up with the plot for the story. It is the interaction between the characters and the situations that generates happenings. Once all of those things are in place, the story writes itself. Sometimes I draw the pictures after the story’s written. Sometimes the pictures I come up with challenge me to invent plot lines. But the result is always one I need to be happy with. Then there’s the added bonus of working with professionals like Merlin Publishers. Chris Gruppetta and his team know their stuff and they make the life of a writer more difficult (because they’re exacting), but also much easier, because they help at every turn of the publishing process. There is no interference with the story, of course, but the package hums along in a way that works well and the result, like in the case of Il-Professur Għasfur, is a wonderful book that should please both child and adult readers on every level. 21
Families will set places at the table, and burn offerings for the lost loved ones, to appease their restless souls. Offerings are also made for the spirits who have no family.
The Hungry Ghost Festival (Yu Lan) The Hungry Ghost Festival (Yu Lan) was inscribed onto China’s national list of cultural heritage in 2011 and is held at over 60 places on Hong Kong Island as well as Kowloon and New Territories. Some of the main activities of the festival include paying respects to hungry ghosts and opera for the spirits.
U
rban Legend
Many Chinese people make efforts to appease these transient ghosts, while ‘feeding’ their own ancestors. While the festival’s origins are not unlike those of Halloween in Europe, it is also intrinsically linked to the Chinese practice of ancestor worship. Many people tend roadside fires and burn faux money and other offerings for ghosts and ancestors to use in the afterlife. Food is also left out to sate the appetite of the hungry ghosts. One of the main highlights of the festival is the Chinese operas, usually held on temporary bamboo stages, performed to praise the charitable and pious deeds of the deities.
Chiu Chow (Chaozhou) – Keeping The Hungry Ghost Festival alive
Around 1.2 million people originating from Chiu Chow (Chaozhou) in China’s Guangdong province live in Hong Kong. During the Hungry Ghost Festival, they organise their own Yu Lan Ghost Festival, which runs for the entire seventh lunar month. The festival has been held for over 100 years. In neighbourhoods across Hong Kong, during this month you’ll see Chiu Chow people occupying parks, piazzas, pitches and other sufficiently spacious places to set up “Yu Lan Ritual” where they offer sacrifices to their ancestors and the hungry ghosts, burning incense and joss paper, distributing free rice, and performing live Chinese operas and Chiu Chow–style dramas for ghosts in need of a bit of entertaining. (Yu Lan is was held from the 31st of July to the 30th of August this year.)
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Portrait of Chaplin as The Tramp, circa 1914. ©Roy Export Company Establishment
Brilliance in a bowler hat Delving into the archives of slapstick genius
Within a year of arriving in Hollywood in 1914, British-born Charlie Chaplin had become the slapstick king of America. By the end of his second year on the silver screen, Chaplin’s fame had spread worldwide. He was the first international film star and rapidly became one of the richest men in the world, with a million-dollar contract, his own studio and his stock company of close collaborators. From Alaska to Zimbabwe, the bowler hat, cane, baggy trousers and outsized shoes of The Tramp became, and remains, an instantly recognisable silhouette.» 25
Chaplin as the worker driven mad by “Modern Times” (1936). ©Roy Export Company Establishment
W
ith unrestricted access to the Chaplin archives, Taschen presents the ultimate book on the making of every one of his films – The Charlie Chaplin Archives. With 900 images, including unseen stills, memos, storyboards and on-set photographs, as well as interviews with Chaplin and his closest collaborators, it reveals the process behind the Chaplin genius, from the impromptu invention of early shots to the meticulous retakes and reworking of scenes and gags in his classic movies: The Kid (1921), The Gold Rush (1925), The Circus (1928), City Lights (1931), Modern Times (1936), and the provocative Hitler parody The Great Dictator (1940). The book’s first print run of 10,000 copies includes a precious 12-frame strip from City Lights (1931), cut from a 35mm print in Chaplin’s archives and also features the entire Chaplin life history in words and pictures including documents, storyboards, posters, and designs, plus scripts and images for unmade films. There is also an oral history, told from the point of view of Chaplin himself, drawing on his extensive writings, many of which have never been reprinted before, supplementary interviews with some of his closest collaborators, material from over 150 books of press-clippings in Chaplin’s archives – which range from his early days in music halls to his death – and his short films, from Making a Living (1914) to The Pilgrim (1923), as well as all his feature-length movies, from The Kid (1921) to A Countess from Hong Kong (1967).
The Tramp walks the high wire in “The Circus” (1928). ©Roy Export Company Establishment 26
For more information or to purchase a hardbound copy of The Charlie Chaplin Archives visit www.taschen.com.
Photography by MiaSarah Shoot assistant Mary Rose D’Amato Outfits courtesy of Bortex Fine Tailoring Home accessories by Camilleri Paris Mode Make-up by Ana-Maria Grima Location Grand Salon of the Auberge de Provence, Valletta 28
LE BAROQUE, C’EST MOI
Speaking to musician Ian Peter Bugeja, I have to keep reminding myself that this prolific musician, with so much experience under his belt, is still in his twenties. He is perhaps somewhat of an anachronism: his mannerisms and the cultural references he makes – even the way he speaks – give the impression of someone older and wiser than his youthful face would suggest. By Coryse Borg.
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meet him in a café in San Ġwann, where he stays with his parents when he is in Malta on holiday (he is currently based in London). After a few preliminaries, Ian Peter starts off by saying that he believes he was always destined to live beyond these shores. “Since I was five or six years old, I’ve always said that I would live outside Malta when I was older. I’m an only child so you can guess that it is difficult for my parents; however they have always been very supportive and encouraging. I love it here, but after two or three weeks I start getting antsy,” he admits. Ian Peter always remembers being in love with music, especially opera – a love he shared with his maternal grandfather. He was also a fan of Disney feature films such as The Little Mermaid and Aladdin: “It wasn’t just the animation I was in love with, but the beautiful orchestrated scores. They fuelled my imagination and I wanted to know more about how to make that kind of music,” he says with a smile. “I started playing the piano when I was six. At first, my parents used to ask me to practice, but I soon started to seek it out all by myself. My piano teacher was Maria Dolores Amodio, who is amazing. Despite being elderly, she is still going strong, and still teaching a lot of students. She taught me a lot, including the tantamount importance of discipline – something I definitely include in my own work ethic.” In Malta, Ian Peter also studied theory of music under Stephanie Quintano Lauri. He continued his musical studies at the University of Malta – reading for a BA (Hons.) degree in Music, where he majored in piano performance and conducting. He then moved on to the Royal Welsh College of Music and Drama, where he read for an MMus in orchestral and opera conducting and is currently pursuing his doctoral studies in Historical Performance on the DMus course at the Guildhall School of Music and Drama in London. Throughout his studies, Ian Peter has maintained a strong career in performance. A talented keyboard player, he has performed all over the UK and mainland Europe. He has participated in numerous master-classes with a myriad of internationally-acclaimed musicians and performed with a significant amount of acclaimed ensembles. In Malta, Ian Peter has performed at various venues, including the Manoel Theatre and Palazzo Parisio (where he performed for HRH Prince Edward), as well as during Notte Bianca. He also closed the Valletta International Baroque Festival with Les Bougies Baroques in January 2014. Ian Peter specialises in ‘historical performance’ – performing vocal and instrumental repertoire from the late 16th century through to the beginning of the 19th century on period instruments and period instrument reproductions. He regularly takes on the double role of conductor and soloist with various 17th and 18th century keyboard instrument (harpsichord/fortepiano) concertos – which means that he conducts mostly while playing a keyboard instrument – something which I find fascinating. And it doesn’t stop there. One of his major achievements was the founding of his own period instrument ensemble called Les Bougies Baroques in November 2012 – ‘bougies’ being French for ‘candles’ and also, of course, a word-play on Ian Peter’s surname – whom he has directed and toured with extensively across the UK and Europe, to great acclaim. “I was definitely born in the wrong era,” he says with a laugh. “I have always been in love with the Baroque period and with the Age of Enlightenment. It is one reason
why I abandoned the modern piano and changed my technique to play historic keyboards that pre-date the ‘modern’ piano as most know it. Early keyboards have a transparent, crisp, and delicate sound to which modern audiences are not accustomed. Of course, there are no recordings from that period so you have to rely on treatises, documents and so on and hope that what you are doing is right.” Ian Peter describes himself as the ‘quintessential Renaissance man’ and a big advocate for the Baroque. He is even a practitioner of Baroque dancing and goes to Baroque dance lessons in London. “When you are presenting the Baroque to a modern audience you have to find ways of inflecting its dialect and grammar in a way with which a modern audience can engage – without enforcing your own ‘modern’ dialect and grammar on it in the process, of course. Most Baroque art – music in particular – is about rhetoric and how you communicate with your audience in the way an orator would. The work that goes into events that are particularly multidisciplinary for my part includes designing sets, costumes and lights, and directing for the stage, other than musical direction,” he explains. What about modern music? Does Ian Peter think it has any redeeming qualities at all? “Truth be told, I am not really a fan of most modern music,” he tells me. “I feel that we have almost lost our appreciation for beauty. Indeed, most art now has no integrity, no soul: it’s all about the money, all about shocking people, and all about provoking a reaction – any reaction. However, I have no problem with any music as long as it appeals to the virtues I find so appealing within music and art in general. I adore jazz because it has a lot in common with Baroque music. I also have a lot of respect for artistes who may appear to be superficial pop artistes and superficial, but who research both their music and their showmanship – Lady Gaga is the perfect example of this. I do have a problem with most artistes who look forward without first looking back – even if you want to react completely against what came before you, you have to at least look back first regardless, before you react against it.” Les Bougies Baroques was established to counter what Ian Peter sees as ‘mainstream classical music-making’, which the ensemble does by regularly performing earlier music to audiences within intimate and historic settings – ethically a world away from the ‘cinematic’ aesthetics permeating mainstream classical music-making today. Hopefully, the ensemble will continue to go from strength to strength, giving audiences a taste of what it would have been like to experience music played so long ago, and on such different instruments. “It is no secret that Baroque music has become a bit of a cult or a fetish for many people, including myself, and we have taken full and honest advantage of this in drawing in our audiences; once they’re hooked, they’re hooked – and we certainly know how to keep their attention,” he says with a smile. “We have a great reception and following wherever we go, even in countries in which we have never performed before. It’s all down to the branding, as well as to me being absolutely paranoid about every aspect of it. My role model as far as branding genius is concerned has been Louis XIV – the undisputed master of branding.”
“I WAS DEFINITELY BORN IN THE WRONG ERA; I HAVE ALWAYS BEEN IN LOVE WITH THE BAROQUE PERIOD.”
Ian Peter will next be performing with his Les Bougies Baroques at the National Portrait Gallery in London on the 23rd of October during London Rivals: Handel, Porpora, Bononcini, Ariosti – a concert highlighting the battle for musical supremacy between four great composers during one of London’s most burgeoning cultural epochs. For more information, visit www.ianpeter.net and www.lesbougiesbaroques.com. 29
Spectacular three-dimensional cladding creates design walls with an appealing and dynamic look thanks to the light and shadow effects marked by reliefs on the surface. Abstract and sinuous motifs are enlivened and enhanced by a natural or artificial lighting system specifically created for the project. Josies Bathrooms are offering a 25% discount for the month of October – what are you waiting for? Josies Bathrooms, Naxxar Road, Lija. www.josiesbathrooms.com
Great for indoors or out, these brand new handmade Nero Lanterns from Mdina Glass marry a metal framework with a beautiful mouth-blown glass body and high-grade leather handles. The range consists of various colour combinations and sizes, and look stunning during the day and when lit at night. Available from the Mdina Glass Ta’ Qali. Tel 2141 5786 or email onlinesales@mdinaglass.com.mt.
hothouse Spruce up your home
The Kingfisher Collection is a new colourful range of vases, bowls, lighting solutions and more. Reflecting the beauty of nature with its green, blue and white tones, the Kingfisher Collection will brighten up any indoor living space. Check out the Kingfisher Collection at all Mdina Glass outlets or online at mdinaglass.com.mt. For more info call 2141 5786 or email onlinesales@mdinaglass.com.mt.
The stackable teapot and cup from HENRI Luxury Gift Boutique, Mdina and Pjazza Tigné, is a quirky edition to any home and a fun gift. Tel 20106307. www.henri.com.mt or facebook/henrimalta
The range of original vases and bowls from HENRI Luxury Gift Boutique, Mdina and Pjazza Tigné, includes options in various shapes, sizes, colours and styles to suit all tastes and surroundings. Henri… unique gift ideas for him, for her… or just for yourself. Tel 20106307. www.henri.com.mt or facebook/henrimalta
INSIGNIA A card with a difference Good taste is something that comes with knowing the difference between what is good, and that which is great! This is what the Insignia cards bring you. Insignia Cards Ltd. is an established Malteseregistered financial institution that provides card products and services as part of its Lifestyle Management services with which clients enjoy the personalised service and financial freedom that 30
most banks cannot provide. Insignia’s card products and services are designed to help you manage your hectic lifestyle, giving you tips and support in booking everything from restaurants to tailored getaways. Card members enjoy personal service and financial freedom that most banks cannot provide. www.insignia.com.mt
DAKS SS16, FOH (Kensington Leverne, British Fashion Council)
LONDON FASHION WEEK SS16 COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS
London Fashion Week is one of the world’s highest profile designer showcases – voicing key trends, launching the next top model, and promoting next season’s fashion labels set to become household names. It continues to strut it’s stuff, and as part of its 2015 Simone Rocha SS16, Front of House (Shaun James Cox, British Fashion Council)
schedule it showcased the Spring Summer 2016 collections over 5 days this September at their new home on Brewer Street. Keep up with this city’s trends and fashion week events: www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
Temperley London SS16, Backstage (Eeva Rinne, British Fashion Council)
Sophia Webster SS16, Presentation (Kensington Leverne, British Fashion Council)
Marques Almeida SS16, Backstage (Shaun James Cox, British Fashion Council)
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Erdem SS16, Front of House (Kensington Leverne, British Fashion Council)
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Betty Barclay top and trousers from Mei; Nour jewellery from Porto; Tosca Blu bag from Porto; shoes from ALDO shoes and accessories. 33
Dress from 1-2-3; Shoes from ALDO shoes and accessories; Nour necklace, earrings and rings from Porto; Dank Smykkekunst bracelet from Porto; Capiz multi-bracelet from Porto; hat from ALDO shoes and accessories; Fendi sunglasses from O’hea. 34
Coat and trousers from 1-2-3; Max Mara sunglasses from O’hea; shoes from ALDO shoes and accessories; Nour necklace, earrings and metal ring from Porto; Tosca Blu bag from Porto; Lola Rose ring with stone from Porto; Squadra Blu bracelet from Porto; Braccialini umbrella from Porto. 35
Warehouse shirt and dress from Debenhams; shoes from ALDO shoes and accessories; Squadra Blu necklace from Porto; Stamerra bracelet from Porto; Nour earrings and ring from Porto; Tosca Blu bag from Porto; Jimmy Choo spectacles from O’hea. 36
Warehouse dress from Debenhams; Squadra Blu necklace and bracelets from Porto; Gaby earrings from Porto; Nour ring from Porto; boots from ALDO shoes and accessories; bag from 1-2-3; Prada sunglasses from O’hea. 37
OUTLETS FEATURED 1-2-3, Westin Dragonara Resort, St Julian’s. tel. 23745031 Mei, Westin Dragonara Resort, St Julian’s. tel. 21376690 Porto, Portomaso Shopping Complex, St Julian’s. tel. 21372079 ALDO Shoes & Accessories, The Point, Tigne, Sliema. tel. 20601104. mob. 99751057 Zachary Street, Valletta. mob. 99892331 Paola Square, Paola. mob. 99892332 Arkadia, Gozo. mob. 22103319 Debenhams, The Point Shopping Mall, Tigné Point & Main Street Shopping Complex, Paola. tel. 20602010 O’hea. 191 The Strand, Gzira. tel. 21315590
Betty Barclay shirt and fur from Mei; Vera Mont trousers from Mei; Nour jewellery from Porto; Tosca Blu bag from Porto; shoes from ALDO shoes and accessories; Dolce & Gabbana sunglasses from O’hea. 38
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N O I T C E L L O EW C Your
westin dragonara resort, st. julians – tel: 21376690 – opening hours: mon to fri 10am - 7pm, sat 10am - 3pm
the twotone shoe Capturing style is a talent. A talent that Gabrielle Chanel instinctively had more than anyone, detecting what would make all the difference to a silhouette.
Mlle Chanel on the shoulder of her friend Serge Lifar – 1937. Photo by Jean Moral
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n 1957, after she’d already made the little black dress, the tweed braided suit and the quilted handbag - all essentials in women’s wardrobes - Mademoiselle Chanel decided to introduce a new note to a woman’s allure: two-tone shoes. “They are”, she said, “The height of elegance.” As ever her vision was perfectly exact, direct and obvious. This time she took the form of the beige and black slingback shoe, studied it from heel to toe to mingle it in with every look, from morning to night and for every occasion. Once again with this accessory the designer imposed a very real stylistic rupture: up until then shoes had been one colour and had to match the colour of the outfit, Gabrielle Chanel liberated women from the rigid codes of an antiquated elegance. “The new Cinderella slipper” as the press called it, immediately went global and quickly seduced actresses of the era including Catherine Deneuve, Romy Schneider, Brigitte Bardot, Delphine Seyrig, Jane Fonda and Jeanne Moreau. This shoe boasts another big advantage, its colours: the beige lengthens the leg while the black toe cap shortens the foot. With a sense of practicality anchored in every one of her creations, Gabrielle Chanel had also decided to use this graphically effective detail to protect the tip of the pump from the wear. As for the slingback, it provided great freedom of movement. Finally the 5cm high square heel was conceived to ensure a comfort that fitted in perfectly with women’s new lifestyles. It’s most likely that the designer drew these features from men’s wear: the two-tone shoe having been around since the 18th century. At the beginning of the 20th century she often designed sport or leisure shoes in the shape of men’s derbies or oxfords, just like the pair she wears in this famous portrait of her perched on the shoulders of her friend the dancer Serge Lifar. Gabrielle Chanel quickly perfected her creation. With the help of shoemaker Massaro, the slingback was elasticated. Working from this timeless foundation, subtly different coloured versions saw the light of day: beige leather with a toe cap in navy or brown and even gold. “With four pairs of shoes I can travel around the world,” the logic was unstoppable. As seasons went by, the toe cap changed into black satin, silver leather, was rounded or more pointed, finished with a little bow. The heel became squarer in the 1960s and then thinner later on. For a while the slingback was dropped as the shoe enveloped the foot completely; it went from urban elegance to casual sporty in the shape of high top kidskin tennis shoes laced up with a black ribbon in 1966. Today Karl Lagerfeld’s equally inventive and practical spirit continues to keep this shoe alive. Under his direction the signature two-tone pump made a comeback in 2015 in the shape of a slingback sandal with revised dimensions, still firmly placed upon a square heel. At the Fall-Winter 2015/16 Ready-to-Wear show every single look, from slimcut leather trousers to tweed dresses, from threepiece suits to evening gowns, was thus well heeled: “The slingback has become the most modern shoe and makes the legs look beautiful” confided the designer. An approach that neatly follows in the footsteps of Gabrielle Chanel who in 1957 said, “We leave in the morning with a beige and black, we lunch with beige and black, we go to a cocktail party with the beige and black. We are dressed from morning to night!” But just like his illustrious predecessor, Karl Lagerfeld, from his very first Ready-to-Wear collection in 1983, has often had fun playing with the two-tone shoe. From 1986 onwards he hit the pavement with a ballerina. For Spring-Summer 1994 Ready-to-Wear he presented it in black and white, fastened with an ankle strap. For the Fall-Winter 2005/06 campaign, the colours were inverted and the shoe became black with a white toe cap, worn by Daria Werbowy on the streets of New York and photographed by Karl Lagerfeld. Breaking yet more codes he then imagined other duos: plum and peacock blue, black and lavender, fuchsia and black,
bottle green and black on sandals with rock crystal heels (Fall-Winter 2012/13 Ready-to-Wear). Striding out at the Spring-Summer 2015 Ready-to-Wear show, the models wore strappy derbies in gold leather with a black suede top cap. Beyond colours Karl Lagerfeld also mixes materials by daringly combining PVC with satin for the Spring-Summer 2013 Ready-toWear collection, lace with leather on the thigh boots in the Spring-Summer 2013 Haute Couture collection, and tweed with patent leather for the low
boots of the Fall-Winter 2009/10 Haute Couture collection. Playing with trompe-l'oeil, the designer transformed the two-tone into a legging-style thigh boot for the Paris-Bombay Métiers d'art 2011/12 collection, and at the Spring-Summer 2014 Ready-toWear show the two-tone shoe had its own integrated socks. Always shaking up conventions, the designer adorned the heel of a pointed pump with a knot and even created two-tone espadrilles in canvas and leather for the 2013/14 Cruise collection. For the
Paris-Salzburg Métiers d'art 2014/15, he fashioned a riding boot out of loden and leather. Almost sixty years after its creation, CHANEL’s twotone shoe has been continuously enriched with new versions, thanks to the unexpected interpretations and constantly renewed creativity of Karl Lagerfeld. As a high heel, a ballerina, a boot, a sneaker and even an espadrille, the two-tone shoe is today, more than ever, a true fashion accessory that combines timeless elegance, comfort and modernity. 41
The new Autumn/Winter Collection at MEI has arrived – the classic Betty Barclay comfortable dresses, knits, trousers and matching tops, jackets, coats and exceptional elegant dresses by Vera Mont. MEI Westin Dragonara Resorts St. Julian’s, open Monday to Friday 10am - 7pm and Saturday 10am - 3pm.
Calling all Maltese shoppers! Oasis is celebrating their new Sliema store with a party and you’re invited! They will be treating you to champagne and macaroons, tips and tricks by a TRESemmé stylist, goodie bags, our lucky dip game with super prizes and lots of fun.... And, the first 10 ladies through the door at 7pm will get a free Nina L’Eau Eau de Toilette (30ml) by Nina Ricci! So, pop in on Thursday 15th of October from 7 – 10pm at the Oasis Store, Tower Road, Sliema.
fashion street Head turning style for all budgets sunglasses Michael Kors
available from
O’hea
Discover a wide selection of accessories at 1-2-3: including the Narcisse gold clutch bag embellished with beading. 1-2-3, Westin Dragonara Resort, St. Julian’s, tel. 23745031.
Here’s a great opportunity to go out in style in the rain. Stand out from the crowd, and choose from a variety of stylish umbrellas by Moschino from Porto, Portomaso Shopping Complex, tel. 21372079. 42
CH MEN PRIVÉ: THE SOPHISTICATED WORLD OF CH CAROLINA HERRERA
The season is in retrograde once more as the 70s obsession continues to reign. The difference with this revival is a clean, contemporary take on the aesthetic, adjusted to the lifestyle of the modern woman who will wear it. Drawing inspiration from a kaleidoscope of influences, blending artisan craft with naval inspiration and Nordic detail, the Warehouse AW15 collection creates a statement uniform for the urban folk heroine. Working with a strong palette of black and deep navy, punctuated with caramel, ochre and hints of wine, texture is key to the collection. Scouring all corners of the globe, Mongolian fur trims, hardware leather and real suede bringing elements of the era’s rock ‘n’ roll heritage to the streets whilst cashmere and winter bohemian tapestry prints illustrate the beauty to be found within city life. Warehouse is available exclusively at Debenhams at The Point Shopping Mall, Tigné.
As the night draws to a close, he sweeps his arms around her and pulls her close. With the city lights twinkling in the distance, she smiles. Each has found what they have been looking for. Loving being in his embrace, the chemistry between them is intense. You can sense between the polished couple there is fire underneath. In the city that never sleeps, something new has awoken the senses. On the Upper East Side, she walked into his life and he into hers. A story of seduction too powerful to ignore. Here, the story begins. In the sophisticated and modern world of CH Carolina Herrera, the most important thing is to have a sense of humour. A love of life, and of course, their passion for each other, is evident in every picture.
THE MAN The CH Privé man knows what he wants and how to get
Thirteen abstract brushstrokes are translated into laser cut Perspex and hand linked together on a beaded chain to create a wearable piece of contemporary art. www.tattydivine.com
it. He has an irresistible charm and he knows how to make an immediate impression. He attracts the good things in life - whether it is the classic car he drives, his impeccable suit or the beautiful woman he devotes his attention to, he is a modern man who knows when it is time for business and time for pleasure.
THE FRAGRANCE For
The Top Note the perfumer, Christophe Raynaud, chose the finest qualities of raw materials to recreate the precious scent of whisky: an exquisite accord, intoxicating and addictive with a hint of fruity and spicy notes of nutmeg, clove and plum. This hypnotic accord blended with a touch of grapefruit, at the same time bitter and zesty, delivers on top an attractive freshness, provocative and modern. To reinforce the elegant and intense temperament of the fragrance, the heart offers different masculine tonalities. A mix of spices and aromatic notes of cardamom, clay sage and red thyme, both warm and fresh boosted by a frozen lavender for a timeless yet modern masculinity. CH MEN Privé is available as an eau de toilette 50ml and 100ml.
Answer the following question to
WIN A BOTTLE OF CH MEN PRIVÉ BY ANSWERING THE FOLLOWING QUESTION: HOW MANY MILES OF COASTLINE DO THE GREEK ISLANDS HAVE?
SEND YOUR ANSWER INCLUDING YOUR FULL NAME AND CONTACT DETAILS BY THE 25TH OF OCTOBER TO: FIRST PERFUME COMPETITION, THE MALTA INDEPENDENT, STANDARD HOUSE, B’KARA HILL, ST JULIAN’S... GOOD LUCK!
Discover a wide selection of accessories at 1-2-3: including the Nelson Black quilted bag. 1-2-3, Westin Dragonara Resort, St. Julian’s, tel. 23745031.
WINNERS FROM THE SEPTEMBER ISSUE: Marina Felice from San Gwann: A bottle of Gewurztraminer ‘Les Princes Abbes’ wine, and Carmen Galea from Marsascala: a bottle of Olympéa by Paco Robanne. Congratulations!
competition
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OLYMPÉA
Behind-the-scenes, filming for Olympéa – the fragrance for women by Paco Rabanne
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e’re downright bored in the Kingdom of the Gods... Immortality made of marble. Olympéa appears, sure of herself. Along her way, certainty and egos are broken. The gods awaken, and everything comes back to life. Victorious and imperial, Olympéa has chosen her hero. After Invictus, 1 Million and Lady Million, Alexandre Courtès delivers his fourth film for Paco Rabanne. A strong visual and stylistic identity in an antique-contemporary setting scattered with
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surprising temporal clashes. Luma Grothe takes the viewer through to the end of her victory thanks to her irresistible magnetism. “We wanted to express that almost divine notion of power but without using force. Femininity has other strengths and other weapons. What is expressed through muscles in men passes through the eyes here. The scene is more intimate. The bath has replaced the stadium. But she is definitely a conqueror who succeeds in everything.” – Alexandre Courtès, Director. Paco Rabanne is exclusively distributed by Ta’Xbiex Perfumery Limited, tel. 21331553.
BAGS BY: BRACCIALINI. TOSCA BLU. RIPANI. FRANCESCO BIASIA. LUPO. RADLEY. TULA. JEWELLERY BY: DANSK. COEUR DE LION. NOUR. SQUADRA BLU. GABY’S. STAMERRA. LOLA ROSE & TUTTI & CO.
PORTOMASO SHOPPING COMPLEX, ST. JULIAN’S. TEL: 2137 2079 WWW.PORT OMALTA.C OM
From left to right: Zara jumpsuit; Zara suede boots; tie skinny scarf; Topshop denim & shearling jacket; River Island pink tweed skirt; Mango snake-pattern boots; Mango scallope suede skirt
The Art of Street-Style Success
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Long limbs, bed hair and doe eyes are just a few things these two lovely style icons have in common! Get ready to feast your eyes on their sartorial genius, and learn a lesson or two along the way.?
Above: Topshop flared denim dungarees; Topshop belted jumpsuit 46
friend of yours decides to throw a massive party, and the guest list is endless. People from different social circles, including your own, have clicked ‘Going’ to the Facebook event. The pressure builds up as it approaches: you’re newly single and looking to impress. You need to look your best, stunning the unsuspecting as you walk into the room. Now switch the party for Fashion Week, and the other attendees for the photographers preying on the fabulous show-goers weaving their way through the crowds amassed outside the venues. There is a certain vanity, and a need to be immortalised in a nonchalant walking shot, while exuding pretend ignorance of the photographers’ existence, and a manic hurry to your next RSVP, that accompanies the imminent arrival of Fashion Week. While the effortlessness in most is contrived, certain regulars who crop up on the majority of street-style websites do so because of their true-to-form, consistently sartorial persona. With bloggers, it’s easy to spot because you can quickly compare their Fashion Week wares with what they put on for the rest of the calendar. The real ones make every day of the year their own personal Fashion Week. Their Instagram feeds are one seamless source of inspiration. We are avid followers of a select few of these people, and we’re glad to present them to you in the hope of infecting you with the same admiration we reserve for
these online icons. Relatively new to the scene, Patricia Manfield is a streetstyle darling of Italian descent and hails from theatelier.me, which she co-founded with her equally stylish and easyon-the-eyes boyfriend. Patricia’s take on the 1970s embraces full-on flares and the use of denim, suede and leather for a fresh update of this playful trend. Her distinctive look is built on an understated sensuality, showing sexiness without resorting to short, tight or shiny (or, God forbid, a combination thereof). Slivers of exposed skin succeed in creating the allure that sequined bandage skirts can never truly convey. Meanwhile, It girl Alexa Chung approaches the era with more of a feminine flare. No stranger to the spotlight, she started off her career presenting on British television, followed by modelling stints and a new life in New York City. She has since become an icon in the fashion world, with several collaborations and a role as Contributing Editor for Vogue UK under her belt. Alexa takes mini skirts and dresses to a whole new level, accessorising with thin scarves and low block heels to seal the deal. It’s an easy recipe to follow if you have the right ingredients. These master chefs know their business. Never compromise, never overdo it, and use what you have to offer to the best of your ability. Most of all, enjoy getting dressed-up. Your joy will be as infectious as your impeccable sense of style. The Clouded Revolution is a blogging trio whose ultimate mission is to perfect the art of style. Follow them on www.cloudedrevolution.com, as well as their Instagram @cloudedrevolution and their Facebook page, facebook.com/TheCloudedRevolution.
NEW OPENING HOURS Monday - Saturday: 10am - 7pm Westin Dragonara Resort, St. Julians T: 23745031
WWW.1 2 3.COM
Left to right: Eugene Tong; ASOS Fisherman beanie; ASOS blazer with Mandarin collar; ASOS wool overcoat; Noose & Monkey flannel blazer; Marc by Marc Jacobs Neoprene bomber jacket
Street Smarts
Nowadays, it’s hard to separate the wheat from the chaff. It’s even harder to get noticed amongst a sea of trend-toting clones. What is the secret ingredient to head-turning style, and how do you keep it up? We’ve found two fashion insiders who can show you the ropes.
I Above: ASOS smart trousers in tweed; reclaimed vintage leaf brooch; ASOS floral tie and pocket square set 48
n an article published two years ago in the New York Times T Magazine, fashion critic Suzy Menkes described the gaggle of ostentatiously-dressed camera hogs, waiting like vultures outside fashion show venues, as “peacocks who dress for attention”. It may be a fair assessment of the scene, if the Instagram photographs are anything to go by. Brand endorsements are easily comparable to sandwich-board advertising. However, despite the veracity of ‘The Circus of Fashion’, as Menkes aptly entitled her op-ed, some of the so-called stars of the street-style environment thrive because of their authentic and uncompromising personal look. This month, we are introducing some of these front-row and street-style fixtures, and passing on their successful sartorial secrets to our readership. It’s easier than it looks! Eugene Tong, Style Director at Details magazine, is well-loved by fashion shutterbugs. Instantly recognisable in his wayfarer sunglasses and perenniallycovered head, he interprets urban style with a cityinfused eye, often pairing long overcoats with hoodies and trainers. His go-to colours are grey, black and navy, but his expertly executed layering gives his look depth and intrigue. Key items to look for when recreating (or, in keeping with the motif of individuality, taking inspiration from) Tong’s ensembles are bomber jackets, headwear, eye-
catching trainers and trousers cut in wider fits. Tong is a big fan of white shirts and T-shirts as the template around which he builds the rest of his outfits. The common theme he runs with is a high-low mix of casual meets polished. Another favourite among style snappers, who is equally partial to this melange of classic and directional, is Nickelson Wooster. Mr Wooster, a perfectly-coiffed silver fox, is a freelance fashion consultant best known for his tailoring gone askew. Although the tattoos adorning his arms and legs do help in establishing his sought-after vibe, getting inked is not a must. Wooster’s tastes are different to those of most people in that he is often experimental with the pre-established notion of gentlemanly style. The tattoos, for one thing, are a clear indication. He is also very crafty at clashing prints: camo print, for example, frequently features in his ensembles. Neither is he afraid of wearing shorts with his slim-cut blazers and this is not to mention his shoe collection, which is guaranteed to awaken the green-eyed monster in anyone with even a slight footwear fetish. The basis of his style philosophy is to put together a wellconstructed outfit and then throw it off-balance with an expertly-added piece or detail. Regardless of the person, there is one common denominator in any example of true style. While Tong and Wooster – and their other comrades-in-arms – share an eye for great clothing that has cemented their status as fashion icons, they share a deeper and more fundamental trait. They remain true to their own roots, their own passions and their own personalities. Their style is simply an extension of their essence, and that’s what makes it so covetable. So remember, while imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, there is no better stamp of approval than originality. The Clouded Revolution is a blogging trio whose ultimate mission is to perfect the art of style. Follow them on www.cloudedrevolution.com, as well as their Instagram @cloudedrevolution and their Facebook page, facebook.com/TheCloudedRevolution.
Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd., Valley Road, B’Kara T: 2144 4400
YOUR DAILY BREAD
The smell of baking bread and the anticipation of that first, hot bite of it, topped with melted butter, cannot be compared to anything else. Bread is a staple food, but not everyone has had a go at baking it themselves at home. In The Faroe Islands – a group islands between Iceland and Norway in the North Atlantic Ocean – where Henry Petersen is from, it is a regular pass-time and here he shares a simple recipe he uses passed on from his mother, for those of us wanting to get started. Photography by Federico Peltretti.»
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INGREDIENTS 500g wholemeal rye flour 125-150g rye flour 40g wet yeast or 20g dry yeast 1/2 litre water, lukewarm 1tsp baking soda 1tsp salt 3 handfuls of mixed seeds (sesame, pumpkin, poppy etc)
METHOD
1. Soak the seeds in a bowl of hot water for two hours – this will add flavour and crunch. 2. In another bowl, add lukewarm water to the yeast and mix until it is dissolved. Slowly add the rye flour (125g), before adding the 500g of wholemeal rye flour, together with the salt, baking soda and seeds, and mix. 3. Add more flour if required to obtain the right consistency – the dough should be neither runny nor stiff, but sticky and easily formed into a ball. 4. Place in a bread tin of your choice and allow to rise for 1-1½ hours. 5. Pre-heat oven to 200ºC and bake for an hour. 6. Remove bread from the oven, turn tin upside down to release the bread and allow to stand till it is at room temperature. Slice and serve!
SERVING TIP
Bread, especially when it’s home-made, is a great accompaniment to soups and salads, but it is also a meal in itself when topped with nutritious choices such as mixed leaves, pickled herring and a sliced hardboiled egg, or mixed leaves, smoked swordfish and thinly sliced onion. 52
Childhood Eye Problems Melvin J. Gouder. Photograph by Jonathan Borg
nside the womb, the eye begins to develop approximately three weeks into embryonic development and continues through the 10th week of pregnancy. During this time, any offences to this intricate mechanism will result in an eye problem at birth. For this reason, every baby born in Malta undergoes a thorough examination by a paediatrician on day one. This includes a check on the eyes to exclude obvious gross eye problems. The paediatrician looks for the red reflex, basic eye anatomy and the presence of congenital cataracts. Any issue or doubt is referred to us for further analysis. Eye problems in children are rare. The biggest challenge is that children may not verbalise any problem, so that the parents have to be on the lookout for certain signs. These vary from a simple red eye with or without a discharge, or a watery eye, to the more worrying ocular misalignment. So, we have to be observant. Some of the indications of eye problems should not be taken lightly. The best approach is to have a low-threshold and test where there is any doubt. A family history of eye problems in childhood should
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further lower the threshold for a visit to the eye surgeon. Visual development is a long and delicate physiological process, marred with hurdles and defined by milestones. Vision in the infant is still poor and the child has to learn how to see with two eyes but visualise one image. This takes years to be perfected and any problem in-between can increase the risk of lazy eye (amblyopia). It can take a while for the infant’s eyes to adjust and parents may observe one eye that wanders off for a while (squint), misalignment of the eyes and even droopy eyelids (ptosis). The earlier action is taken to resolve an eye problem, the better the outcome and usually the quicker the rehabilitation. A persistently squinting child should be seen by a trained ophthalmologist to rule out ocular misalignment. To give an example, let me mention a three-year-old boy who squints constantly and more severely when looking at close distances as when playing. In general, there are two types of squints: those that can be easily helped with the appropriate spectacle correction and those that require surgery. Misdiagnosing the type of squint can lead to an
appalling outcome if managed incorrectly. Strabismus surgery is a field in which I have a special interest as I notice that, once a child is cured from a squint, this will have a long-lasting positive effect on the entire family. As eye surgeons, we work hand-inhand with orthoptists who are professionally trained in the measurement and management of squints. They provide the surgeon with an array of tests that we use during the surgical procedure in order that the best outcome is achieved. The ultimate goal of squint management is 3-D vision – also known as stereopsis. Other problems in childhood include a congenitally blocked tear duct, recurrent bacterial infections, allergies of all the external eye tissues and – less commonly – viral infections such as herpes and adenovirus. My philosophy is to carry out a full and thorough eye check on all asymptomatic children by the age of three to four years and treat any recurring clinical eye problems from day one of life. Melvin J. Gouder MD, MRCOphth(UK), MRCSEd(Ophth), DiSSO, is a consultant eye surgeon 55
D
ear Reader, Imagine you are riding a bicycle: one wheel represents your cancer diagnosis and treatment plan; the other one represents all the other aspects of your life. Both must be in balance in order for you to move on smoothly. It is perfectly normal for you to be angry and somewhat overwhelmed about this situation. You are probably feeling numb and all of a sudden your future appears blurred. You have this sense that your life has to be put on hold until you get the necessary treatment and – God willing – are cured. Your
TAKE THINGS AT YOUR OWN PACE BUT REMAIN POSITIVE AND FOCUSED. THERE HAVE BEEN HUGE IMPROVEMENTS IN MEDICAL CARE AND MOST TUMOURS CAN NOW BE COMPLETELY CURED. THIS IS ESPECIALLY SO IN YOUR CASE, AS YOU SAY THAT YOU WERE DIAGNOSED IN THE EARLY STAGES, WHICH GIVES YOU AN EVEN GREATER CHANCE OF MAKING A FULL RECOVERY. AT THIS POINT IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU REMAIN OPTIMISTIC.
DEALING WITH A DILEMMA
Dear Claire
Life has always been very good to me. I am now 56 years old, wife to a handsome and loving husband and mother of two boys, both of whom are now independent. My husband and I have been running our own business for many years and this has enabled us to live a comfortable life. All was well until a few weeks ago, when I was diagnosed with breast cancer. The doctor said that it was still in its early stages and that I should be going to London for treatment. Since that fateful day I have lived in constant fear and anxiety. I have lost all motivation. I go to the shop out of duty towards my family, but am edgy and irritable. I can’t control myself. Every time my husband or relatives try to encourage me, I become even angrier because I don’t want to be pitied. I just want to be left alone. My only safety valve is the computer. I sit and browse and can be myself without being judged………….. goals and priorities have changed, as have your fears and concerns. Yet the wheel of life keeps turning and in order for you to pedal on, you must first deal with these feelings and seek to regain your quality of life. You must do this primarily for yourself, but also for the people who love you and will support you every step of the way. You may well ask: “Why me?”. Dear reader, it is not just you. Thousands of others are fighting this very same battle. In fact, I think that attending some kind of support group may help you to realise that you are not alone, and to confront your reaction with that of others in similar situations. Listening to other life stories will expose you to different coping mechanisms and serve as a learning experience. If you are going through the phase where you would rather not be among many people, you may opt to speak to someone with an objective and fresh perspective, including a life coach. 56
YOU HAVE TAKEN CARE OF YOUR FAMILY FOR MANY YEARS – NOW ALLOW THEM TO TAKE CARE OF YOU. USE YOUR TIME DOING WHAT YOU ENJOY THE MOST.
Take things at your own pace but remain positive and focused. There have been huge improvements in medical care and most tumours can now be completely cured. This is especially so in your case, as you say that you were diagnosed in the early stages, which gives you an even greater chance of making a full recovery. At this point it is imperative that you remain optimistic. There will obviously be medical tests, probably chemo or radiotherapy, and possibly surgery. But always keep your eyes on the ultimate goal – which is surviving. Address and acknowledge your emotions which, from the way you have described them, are possibly stress, depression and a good dose of fear. Talk about them. Ask questions. Do some research. Studies show that the mind-body connection of a patient plays a crucial role in dealing with an illness. Accept encouragement and motivation from those around you and if you feel this is not enough, seek further professional help. You have taken care of your family for many years – now allow them to take care of you. Use your time doing what you enjoy the most. Follow a healthy diet and find time to exercise. Pamper yourself without feeling guilty. Yes, there are going to be some challenging days ahead, but do not allow cancer to win without putting up a fight. And when I say this, I am not only referring to the physical aspect. Unfortunately, there are people who have physically survived cancer but have still allowed it to win over their life. Some patients remain blocked or live in constant fear. Yet, life is extraordinary and is there to be enjoyed. After having experienced cancer, a person is given a new lease of life – a fresh opportunity to experience new adventures and the prospect of pedalling to places as yet unknown. Claire Bugelli Bounce Life Coaching Tel: 7957 9813 claire@bounce-life-coaching.com www.bounce-life-coaching.com Facebook: Bounce Life Coaching Malta
This year’s Pink October campaign aims to raise €60,000 from various activities and events which will be held during the month of October. These funds will be used to purchase medical equipment which takes x-rays of breast biopsies which are taken by a sophisticated mammogram machine at Mater Dei. It will also be used to take x-ray of breast cancer specimens removed at surgery. This will allow the surgeon to be more precise in removing cancers from the breast which will lead to better results. This was announced by Mrs Michelle Muscat, chairperson of The Marigold Foundation and Adrian Fabri, director of JPA, organisers of the campaign. The Pink October campaign was at Cavalieri Art Hotel in the presence of Dr
Michael Farrugia, Minister for the Family and Social Solidarity, Mr Christopher Fearne, Parliamentary Secretary for Health, Mrs Gertrude Abela, president of the Europa Donna, Malta and Mrs Esther Sant, co-founder of the Action for Breast Cancer Foundation. Pink October 2015 will bring together The Marigold Foundation, Europa Donna Malta, the Association for Breast Cancer, JPA, the majority of Malta’s media houses and numerous partners, to organize one of the biggest philanthropic events in aid of breast cancer research and awareness in Malta. Throughout the month of October, the Pink October 2015 organising committee will be hosting events and activities, some of which will be open
For more information and donations, people are encouraged to visit www.pinkoctober. Support and follow Pink October Malta’s Facebook page at www.facebook.com/pinkoctobermalta. Donations can also be made via SMS on 50617912 - €4.66 and 50619291 - €11.65.
to the public. The public events will kick-start on Sunday, 11 October at 8.30am with a bike ride starting at Golden Sands Beach and finishing at Cavalieri Art Hotel. Other activities include an awareness campaign at Dukes Shopping Mall in Gozo, a concert by the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra at the Manoel Theatre, Pink Days at work, an art auction, Breast Health Day at St George’s Square in Valletta, a tattoo convention, a public lecture on health promotion and a closing party. There will also be various guest appearances on TV and radio talk shows as well as newspaper and magazine interviews. A solidarity walk entitled Walk for Life from Piazza Gavino Gulia in Cospicua at 10am to SmartCity Malta will wrap up the campaign events on Sunday 25 October.
Sandro, Nicole and Claire from The Clouded Revolution. Photo by Stephanie Galea, www.stephaniegalea.com
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last word
Fashion bloggers The Clouded Revolution have been picking up speed since their humble beginnings as university friends with a common interest, to winning 2 Malta Fashion Award Nominations. First meets up with them to find out more about this inspirational trio and their fashion advice. Claire, has being a twin had an impact on your approach to what you wear, and were you dressed in matching outfits when you were growing up?
It most definitely has affected my outlook on clothing and having a personal style. It was always important to both of us to have a strong individual identity. In fact, we’ve always selected opposite paths in life. Fashion was definitely one of those paths. While we both adore fashion, we have very distinct styles and, in fact, I’m a strong believer in having a tailor-made very personal wardrobe based on one’s tastes. Yes! Unfortunately our mum loved dressing us the same; thankfully, she always did have impeccable taste. Still, it makes it super difficult to distinguish between the two of us in old photos and makes for quite a creepy look in general!
Have your studies and work in architecture and interior design influenced your wardrobe choices? Do you think architects in particular are known to dress a certain way, and should they? Do you?
I’d say my studies have reflected my choices because I generally think in shapes and volumes when I’m planning an outfit. Much like you would do when designing a space, I work around my wardrobe combinations by contrasting volumes and shapes as well as layers and fabric. I’ll be honest, I’ve never looked up to architects for their fashion sense, that’s for sure! The general stereotype is a bespectacled person in a very basic white or black tee and tailored pants combo; so no, I wouldn’t say I fit into that stereotype at all. Although the work you do does generally take centre-stage in your life, I don’t necessarily believe that it should dictate one’s wardrobe. Your individuality depends on so much more than the job you do anyway, and I think personality is a much more interesting aspect to portray in one’s wardrobe!
Sandro, there are so many fashion options for women out there – some of which men could wear too. Does that frustrate you – being that there is a limitation for men’s clothing alternatives?
Honestly, it does get frustrating, which is why I have no qualms about exploring the women’s sections. I think the problem with menswear is that the runway-to-retail process of trend interpretation takes longer than it does for women’s clothing. On the upside, it gives you the chance to challenge yourself and get creative with both sides of the coin. It also helps that gender nonconformity (as part of a more important global discourse on gender issues) is making the rounds as a style movement.
Which country would you say is the best dressed and knows what they are talking about, fashion-wise?
When it comes to Fashion Month, I’d say the best runway shows come out of London and Paris, although I’m starting to love Milan. Otherwise, I’d say it’s a tossup between the Scandinavian countries, particularly Sweden and Denmark, and South Korea. The former execute clean minimalism extremely well, although it helps that everyone seems to be part-angel. South Koreans are fearless in their own way; they are not as outlandish as the Japanese, but they do not shy away from wider proportions and “feminine” silhouettes.
Nicole, choosing an outfit for work or play can often take hours and be stressful. How do you suggest overcoming this? Apart from not caring of course!
I always plan to wake up early but it’s time for me to admit that I’m just not a morning person. I always end up rushing around the house, looking for this and that, then am straight out so I can make it to work on time! It’s very easy to get stuck in a fashion rut: going for the items that are at hand (or, in my case, at the top of the pile) and ending up with a dull outfit, knowing you could have done better! Whether it’s a series of meetings that require a smarter look, a post-work outing after a long day in front of your computer or Sunday brunch, always keep a few things handy that can totally change your outfit, such as a pair of heels or flats, a bold lipstick or even just a scarf. Plan ahead – I usually have an idea of the look I’m going for before bedtime, so I try to find most of the items I need for said outfit. Then all I have to do in the morning is get dressed and run out! One more way to make things easier is to invest in quality pieces that can work for any occasion such as a classic white shirt, black cigarette trousers, etc., so that you can mix them up differently but always look put together.
Why is it important to look the part, and does ‘looking the part’ reflect one’ s true self or is it fabricated?
For me, it’s not about looking the part but more about being true to myself. Making an effort, planning what I wear and putting an interesting outfit together will usually result in a better start to my day by making me feeling better and more confident. Your outfit is usually the first thing people see and comment on when they meet you. When you know that someone has made a certain effort in what they’re wearing, it means that they care about the way they look and it tends to bring out the best in them. Knowing what suits you, what enhances your best features and dressing to make the best of them is always an asset and a definite confidence booster!
IT’S VERY EASY TO GET STUCK IN A FASHION RUT: GOING FOR THE ITEMS THAT ARE AT HAND AND ENDING UP WITH A DULL OUTFIT, KNOWING YOU COULD HAVE DONE BETTER!
Who is the best dressed person of all time?
Claire: Audrey Hepburn and David Bowie (yes, I’m a walking contradiction). Nicole: I’d have to say that Jane Birkin tops my list but I’m currently crushing on Olivia Palermo’s style – she always looks impeccable. Sandro: Us, duh – Paul Simonon of The Clash looked great in his heyday. At present I like Harry Styles. Say what you like about his music, but his taste is off the charts.
With a lot of clothing being made in China and more being made as a result of slave labour, how can we as consumers embrace the true art of fashion without feeling the pinch of the price?
Claire: This isn’t very easy to do at all. The web is a good source for more conscientious brands but I’ve actually found that it’s much harder to source sustainably-made items in Europe than it is in the US. That being said, items shipped from the US tend to get super expensive once you’ve thrown in duty and tax. I’m open to any suggestions, though, so do drop us a line if you know of any interesting brands out there! Nicole: With sweatshop scandals popping up everywhere, social responsibility seems to be quite high up on the priority list for serious brands. It’s slowly becoming easier for us to gain access to high quality items with a conscience. The fashion industry is very fast-paced but it’s all about investing in timeless pieces that will stand the test of time. Sandro: Fast fashion is a sweet and deadly temptress – I’ve been a victim countless times. Luckily, there is now a more conscious effort towards ethical and environmental production, so my suggestion would be to seek out brands with an honest agenda (eg Reformation and H&M Conscious). In some cases, the prices may be high, so treat each purchase as an investment – which means buying less but wearing more.
Where or who should we be looking at this autumn for inspiration and buys and what should we be including in our wardrobe this autumn?
Claire: I love reaping street-style inspiration for the new season from blogs like The Sartorialist and Tommy Ton, particularly right now while the fashion weeks are on. This autumn I would most definitely be looking at including some supple suede in my wardrobe and looking out for earthy tones: think burnt orange and burgundy. Nicole: The 70s are in full swing this season! I constantly pour through the latest magazines as well as blogs to see how today’s taste-makers are putting their outfits together. Sandro: If I had access to one designer’s entire Autumn/Winter collection, I’d pick either Lanvin or AMI by Alexandre Mattiussi. With regard to musthave items, I’d say a statement coat or jacket made in or incorporating shearling. The iterations at Coach and Burberry Prorsum are top-notch. Outerwear is the first thing to meet the eye, so you want to make sure that it translates into an amazing first impression. Plus, it’s great for extra warmth! 59
Top : Marisa Grima, Theresa Bartolo Parnis, Jackie Urpani and Caroline Paris Above left: Kira Drury, Iggy Fenech, and Jo Caruana Above right: Theresa Bartolo Parnis and Carina Camillieri
Monsoon and Accessorize’s Press Day Editors of fashion magazines and websites, bloggers and people connected with the world of fashion attended Monsoon and Accessorize’s Press Day held at the flagship store in Bisazza Street, Sliema on the 16th of September. With a wlcome drink of Martini Royale courtesy of P. Cutajar & Co. in hand, they were introduced to the Autumn/Winter 15 collection, worn by in-house models, and had the opportunity to browse, explore and enjoy the new pieces in an exclusive environment, whilst receiving information about the inspirations and themes.
social whirl David Beckham opens new Adidas store in Dubai On the 29th of September, The global icon and footballing legend David Beckham brought his ‘Midas’ touch to the opening of a new Adidas flagship store in the Mall of Emirates, Dubai to the delight of thousands of fans who caught a glimpse of the sporting superstar during a whistle-stop visit to the United Arab Emirates. The unforgettable store opening brought the mall to a standstill and fans to a frenzy as the former England captain made the dreams of fifty Instagram competition winners come true. Beckham personally welcomed the lucky fans to the all-new ‘HomeCourt’ store before signing autographs and posing for photographs with his fans.
CASTELLO DI NIPOZZANO Above: The Director Christopher McQuarrie, and actors Betty Zhou and Tom Cruise with local host Jiang Xiaohan; Tom Cruise surrounded by happy fans Below: Rebecca Ferguson on the red carpet at the Shanghai Premiere; Tom Cruise in Japan
Mission: Impossible – Rogue Nation screens in China As part of the screening tour for Mission: Impossible - Rogue Nation, the cast and filmmakers attended the screenings in the Beijing Fan Event Screening of ‘Mission: Impossible – Rogue Nation’ on the 7th of September. Mission: Impossible – Rogue Nation scored the highest ever opening day for a non-3D Hollywood movie at the Chinese box office, taking $18.5m on Tuesday 8 September. The Tom Cruise-led spy sequel continued its impressive run with a belated debut in the world’s most populous nation due to China’s annual July blackout of foreign movies. Directed by Christopher McQuarrie, the film has already scored more than $500m (£325m) across the rest of the world, including a $182m haul at the North American box office.
A Frescobaldi wine estate The Castello di Nipozzano lies above the Sieve and Arno valleys very near to Pontassieve, just a 30 minute drive from Villa Campestri. The word nipozzano is thought to have historically meant “without a well” – a reference to the area’s very dry lands which are perfect for bearing vines. The Frescobaldi family have been producing wine since 1308 (that’s a lot of wine-making experience!) and now have a total of five estates all in Tuscany. The Nipozzano estate produces just three wines: Nipozzano Riserva, Nipozzano Vecchie Viti, Montesodi Riserva and Mormoreto. At Frescobaldi’s Castello di Nipozzano estate in the Chianti Rùfina region, one of the smallest wine regions around Florence, newcomer Eleonora Marconi made an immediate impact in her very first vintage as winemaker. The hot and dry 2011 vintage gave her the conditions to produce a new wine, the first addition to the portfolio since 1983. Nipozzano Riserva is a lovely ruby-red. The nose opens with dark wild berries and cherry, hints of candy floss and pleasant floral notes of lilac and chocolate. The spicy component emerges with nuances of clove and green peppercorn. The palate is characterised by a distinct tactile approach in which the stamp of the terroir is underlined by a lively minerality. The tannin texture is tight but not sharp which is also an expression of the uniqueness of the soils of Nipozzano. The finish returns to the intense fruity notes already identified on the nose.
Competition
Answer the following question for a chance to
WIN A BOTTLE OF NIPOZZANO WINE: What wines does Nipozzano estate produce?
Send your answer, including your name, contact number, email and postal address, by the 24th of October to Charles Grech First Competition, Standard House, Standard Publications Ltd., B’kara Hill, St. Julian’s.
Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, B’Kara T: 2144 4400 61
beauty banter The latest scents and make-up
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1. Seven - 007 The new premium male fragrance Seven draws inspiration from powerful elements within the world of 007 that continually captivates Bond fans. The top notes of this scent have a striking citrus quality, led by sweet tangerine and followed by sharp bergamot and crisp apple. For local trade enquiries call VJ Salomone Marketing tel. 80072387. 2. Dermablend - Corrective Stick Skin imperfections disappear... Dermablend Corrective Stick 14HR offers full-on coverage, hides all skin flaws and yet it does not clog your pores. It can be used to cover a large area on the face or for localised 62
imperfections, such as spots, dark circles, vitiligo, rosacea, pigmentation, tattoos and scars. Dermablend is tested under dermatological control. For an increased hold and resistance to extreme conditions such as perspiration, bathing and rubbing, use with Dermablend Setting Powder. Available in pharmacies. vichy@prohealth.com.mt. Facebook: Vichy. 3. Prada - Luna Rossa Sport Fiery tension between man and machine Prada’s vision of sport is unique and sophisticated, in the pursuit of excellence… Prada Luna Rossa Sport combines unexpected ingredients that express the pulsing spirit of the race. It is a unique creation, hiding a sensual powerful oriental heart within an aromatic freshness.
4. Valentino - Donna An iconic feminine scent Valentino Donna gets its inspiration from the Italian Cineccita movies - their typical cinematographic atmosphere, the timeless movie makers, such as Fellini, and the iconic actresses Monica Vitti, Anouk Aimée, Romy Schneider… Valentino Donna is mysterious, exquisite and timeless, like a couture object. Valentino Donna is available as an eau de parfum in three sizes: 100ml, 50ml, and 30ml, and also available for the body and the bath: moisturising body milk 200 ml, silky shower gel 200ml, perfumed deodorant 100ml.
5. Boss - The Scent Reawaken the senses Hugo Boss believes in a different type of seduction, that is slow, steady, and tense with anticipation… its effect is potent, original, and never to be forgotten. With your purchase of Boss – The Scent (100ml) you will receive an exclusive Boss sports bag. Offer valid from authorised outlets until stocks last. For local trade enquiries call VJ Salomone Marketing tel. 80072387.