Taste & Flair December 2021 by The Malta Independent

ISSUE 143 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

THE

Christmas ISSUE

DECEMBER 2021

NEFF GLASS DRAFT HOOD Iconic design. Inspiring illumination.

Triq L-Imdina, Zone 2, Central Business District, Birkirkara T. 2546 4000 | info@oxfordhouse.com.mt | www.oxfordhouse.com.mt

think quality, get comfort, live luxury.

This is hülsta Persis

Elegant surfaces, graceful textures, an imposing look

Joinwell Mill Street, Qormi +356 2278 2000 info@joinwell.com.mt www.joinwell.com.mt

This is hülsta Persis

Elegant surfaces, graceful textures, an imposing look

Joinwell Mill Street, Qormi +356 2278 2000 info@joinwell.com.mt www.joinwell.com.mt

T&F EDITORIAL

Welcome T

aste&Flair’s December issue has always been the favourite one of the year. As the magazine goes to print, the air temperature’s dropping and the wind is blowing a gale. In earlier times, this sort of weather heralded the winter solstice and a last celebration before turning inwards and hunkering down for a long, cold winter. As the days grow shorter and colder, Taste&Flair arrives just in time, filled with warmth, colour, and light. For our Christmas issue, Michael Diacono’s prepared a festive feast of game, Claire Borg brought her signature colourful touch to seasonal flavours, the Taste&Flair crew got busy cooking up comfort food and gifts to share, and our wine writer Andrew Azzopardi’s written up some helpful advice on choosing wine as a gift. In our design pages, we feature two inspirational interiors, one in a historical building and another with a very personal history. There’s more here that we hope you will enjoy. Before we go, we’d like to thank Ramon Micallef for his consistently high-quality design, no matter how tight our deadlines, Sean Ellul for his unflappable manner at all times, our invisible helpers (you know who you are), and our advertisers, contributors, and readers who have been with us through the year. We’re now looking forward to the next one and will be back in February. If you missed any issue of Taste&Flair and want a copy, we may be able to help so please do get in touch with us by email, Messenger, or on Instagram.

Corinne

THE

DECEMBER 2021

Michael Diacono’s Quail Wellington and Roast Grouse. See feature starting on page 15. Photograph: Brian Grech

ISSUE 143 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

Christmas ISSUE

Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta Editorial Board Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia Executive Editor Corinne Vella Editorial Assistants Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Assistant Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt Production Manager André Camilleri Production Assistant Conrad Bondin Prepress & Printing Print It All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the written prior agreement of the publisher. Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*. The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888 *The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.

Detail from the Wilton Diptych, part of the collection of London’s National Gallery. The small, portable altarpiece combining religious and secular imagery, was made for King Richard II (1377 to 1399). It is one of a few panel paintings surviving from the Middle Ages. The painting is in tempera, with blue pigment from the semi-precious stone, lapis lazuli.

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

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T&F CONTENTS

Gorgeous gift ideas

The abundance of Christmas Michael Diacono’s festive feast evokes timeless memories

p27

p44

Seasonal flavours Claire Borg brightens every day with colourful sweet and savoury dishes

The perfect present Andrew Azzopardi has some user-friendly advice on choosing wine as a gift

p15 p78

CONTENTS

A bowlful of comfort Amy Mallia’s slowcooked supper for a long, lazy evening

Make it special Give a gift of homemade goodness

Inside view Claire Galea brings a personal touch to an interior

68 p58

Coming home Konrad Buhagiar’s new apartment in his old family home

Food notes The story behind seasonal ingredients

80 p68 8

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p46

Decorating for Christmas Megan Mallia looks at traditions around the world

Traditional goodness and contemporary elegance for an unforgettable present. Santa Lucia hampers are designed to impress. They're a symbol of deep respect and appreciation – flawless artisanal products and the timeless flavours of traditional goodness, in a striking contemporary presentation. A Santa Lucia hamper will be cherished and valued, just like the relationship you have with the person to whom you've presented it.

Triq il-Linja, Attard – Tel. 21416828 / 21417894

T&F GIFTS

CHRISTMAS GIFT IDEAS

Choosing and wrapping presents for family and friends spreads seasonal joy. Start your Christmas shopping early with our selection of gift ideas.

Apart from a myriad of the most exclusive foods and confectionery, Dical House, of Triq San Anton Abbati Mosta, also boasts one of the best stocked wine and spirits cellars across the island with various quality labels and rare ones brought together in one precious space. One can decide to combine gifts according to taste and budgets and also have these exclusive gifts delivered in Malta or to other EU countries. Corporate clients can request a personalised meeting via email on foods@dicalgroup.com. Visit www.dicalhouse.com to gain insight to a few of the festive items available, but for the real deal a visit to the flagship store is a must. Tel. 2142 4600/1.

This Christmas, gift your loved ones a fine wine that best suits their personality. Ta’ Betta offers four wines each with its own unique character – Jean Parisot, Isabella Guasconi, Antonio Manoel, and Philippe Villiers. Ta’ Betta also offers wine tasting vouchers, perfect for anyone who would like to enjoy the full experience of their wines and the estate. Ta’ Betta wines are available to purchase directly from the winery and from a number of bottle shops. www.tabetta.com

Côte Noire. This beautiful life-like Twelve Rose arrangement has been set in gel infused with a fine fragrance. Each flower is skillfully hand crafted & uses a special, natural coating to give every petal a natural touch & appearance. A scented perfume, which you can spray directly onto the Roses to refresh & enhance the scent is included. Beautifully packaged in a hand-made Round Pink Box. Prices start at €55. Shop online: WWW.GREYANDADLER.COM or visit Grey & Adler at their boutique in Naxxar.

Fiorellina’s natural details conjure up a world covered in flora. A unique table lamp by designer brand Slamp, consisting of luminous petals that transform and enchant any interior with their sequence of lighting fragments and shadows cast across the walls. Find Slamp exclusively available from ESS in Imriehel.

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

GIFTS T&F

The Red October Hamper Collection has a wide assortment of quality wines, premium spirits, scrumptious chocolates, mince pies and biscuits, and other savoury treats to choose from. Each and every hamper is wonderfully crafted, presentably gift-packed and inclusive of delivery. Red October also offers bespoke hampers, individually gift-wrapped products and elegant wine boxes. A thoughtful and appetising gift that would certainly be appreciated and enjoyed long after it is received. The Red October Hamper Collection can be viewed and ordered online at www.redoctoberstore.com. For any further information contact Red October on 2147 0400 or info@redoct.net or via Facebook: facebook.com/RedOctoberMalta

Give the gift of vitality with this Bosch MESM731M Slow Juicer. The motor is powerful yet gentle with the functionality to juice at 55RPM. This slow setting maximises extraction while retaining more nutrients. This particular model is also equipped with “Mix Control”, easily allowing you to choose the consistency of your juice by controlling the amount and density of the pulp reaching your container. 1000 ml juice jug, 1300 ml Pulp container and 3 filters for fine, thick and sorbet blends included. Visit Oxford House in store or online to shop the range.

12 Botanicals for Gin €73.00 from Tettiera. Enhance your gin mixing with our natural list of botanicals and teas specifically selected for GIN. This premier gift box consists of 12 botanicals and teas for Gin placed on our wooden rack, together with a rose-gold plated cocktail stirrer. www.tettiera.com/shop/12-botanicals-and-tea-for-gin/

Santa Lucia hampers are designed to impress. They’re a symbol of deep respect and appreciation - flawless artisanal products and the timeless flavours of traditional goodness, in a striking contemporary presentation. Unlike conventional gifts, a Santa Lucia hamper will not be passed on to someone else at the first opportunity. It will be cherished and valued, just like the relationship you have with the person to whom you’ve presented it. Santa Lucia Gourmet Wines & Gifts, Triq il Linja Attard, Tel 2141 6828 /2141 7894. www.cafesantalucia.com

Meridiana Wine Estate’s Nexus DOK Malta is a premium red wine made exclusively from hand-picked locally grown Merlot grapes. Nexus has a clear, deep, purple-red colour; intense, ripe, cherry-plum aromas; and rich, well-structured fruit flavours with soft tannins and a long finish. For more information about Meridiana’s complete range of wines, please visit www.meridiana.com.mt or you may also find us on Facebook. Trade enquiries: S Rausi Trading, Stadium Street, Gzira. www.srausi.com

Skultuna. Kin is a tea light candle holder with five different models designed by the internationally successful design studio Claesson Koivisto Rune. This is the original series made of polished brass on both the inside and the outside. Shop online: WWW.GREYANDADLER.COM or visit Grey & Adler at their boutique in Naxxar.

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

T&F GIFTS

If you’re on the hunt for bespoke personalised gifts and hampers filled with extraordinary premium quality and artisan products that truly stand out, then the Dical House flagship Store in Triq San Anton Abbati, Mosta is the place to visit. The outlet is open all day, every day during the festive season including public holidays (half-days during special days such as Christmas Eve or Christmas day) and can also be easily found by means of google maps. Suggested hampers can be seen on the website www.dicalhouse.com but each one can be customised according to your taste and budget. Dical House hampers can also be delivered anywhere in Malta. Just be sure to think ahead to avoid disappointment as certain items will be gone by Christmas week. Contact details: T: 2142 4600/1 E: foods@dicalgroup.com

Artemide’s Tolomeo table lamp is an icon realised in aluminium with a system of balancing springs – functional, yet with a unique everlasting style. Artemide is exclusively available from Elektra in Qormi.

ESTEBAN PARIS. This lovely remote controlled perfume mist diffuser allows you to vary the light intensities and remotely control the diffusion time of your scented atmosphere. Just fill with water, add a few drops of essential oil, and enjoy. Comes in three different finishes and prices start at €75. Shop online: WWW.GREYANDADLER.COM or visit Grey & Adler at their boutique in Naxxar.

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

Gio. Batta Delia ESTABLISHED 1901

MOB: 9989 6286 FACEBOOK GIO. BATTA DELIA 1901

Also AvAilAble At

FESTIVE FOOD T&F

THE ABUNDANCE OF

CHRISTMAS Gathering around a table heaving with a feast of festive flavours creates lasting memories, evoking a sense of timelessness. FOOD: Michael Diacono, chef patron, Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro STYLING & PHOTOGRAPHY: Brian Grech WINE RECOMMENDATION: Andrew Azzopardi

Christmastime evokes so many different memories and emotions in all of us. To me it will always be the particular smells and flavours in my mother’s home. The large live tree in the hallway gave off its earthy fragrance, the waft of baking from the kitchen made my mouth water, and strangely enough, the smell of the recently polished furniture, gleaming for the festivities, gave a sense of cozy homeliness.

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

T&F FESTIVE FOOD

Roast Duck

with Cherries and Red Currants

A slow-roast whole duck with crisp skin and a sweet sauce to accompany it is always a great classic seasonal offering. I served this with plain baked carrots.

Serves: 6

Preparation & cooking: 4 hours, plus one day drying in the fridge

Recommended wine: Burgundy or New Zealand Pinot Noir, or a Beaujolais Villages Cru

YOU WILL NEED

FOR THE SAUCE

1 whole Duck (2kg), fully defrosted a little vegetable oil salt and pepper

1 medium onion, finely chopped 300ml Port wine 300ml chicken stock 2 tablespoons cranberry sauce 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon soft brown sugar salt 200g frozen pitted cherries, defrosted 100g frozen redcurrants, defrosted 1 teaspoon butter

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

1. Place the defrosted

duck on a baking rack over a tray and leave it uncovered in the fridge for 24 hours to dry the skin.

2. Pre-heat oven to 220°C (200°C if fan-operated, or gas mark 7)

3. Rub the duck all over with just enough oil to glaze the skin and season it with salt and pepper. Place the prepared duck on a rack over a large baking dish. Roast in the pre-heated oven for 30 minutes till the skin colours, then reduce the oven temperature to 160°C (140°C if fan-operated, or gas mark 3) and cook for a further two and a half hours. Baste the duck occasionally with the dripping from the pan.

FESTIVE FOOD T&F

4. Carefully remove

the fat from the baking tin. Increase the oven temperature to the previous high and return the duck to the oven for a further 20-30 minutes to crisp up completely. Remove it from the oven, cover with foil and let it rest for 15 minutes before serving.

5. Meanwhile, prepare the

sauce. Take some of the duck fat from the roasting tin and place it into a pot. Stir fry the onion to colour it. Add the Port (be careful, as it might flame)and stock. Bring the liquid to to the boil and let it simmer until it reduces by a third.

6. Add the cranberry

sauce, vinegar, sugar, and a pinch of salt. Simmer the pot gently for a further 5 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and, using a stick blender, blitz the mixture till it’s fine.

7. Return the pot to the heat and add the cherries and red currants. Bring the liquid to the boil, then lower the heat and let it simmer for 5 more minutes before stirring in the butter. Serve the sauce with the duck.

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

T&F FESTIVE FOOD

Venison Casserole with Herbed Dumplings

This is a more rustic game dish, and great for an informal gathering of friends. The secret to this is to use a good, full-bodied red wine. ‘Tis not the season to scimp.

Serves: 8

Preparation & cooking: 8 hours

Recommended wine: Barolo or Bordeaux Blend

YOU WILL NEED

2.5kg rump of Venison 5 cloves 10 juniper berries 4 fresh bay leaves 4 sprigs fresh rosemary 1 small bunch fresh sage salt and pepper 2 bottles full-bodied red wine flour to dust 150g unsalted butter extra-virgin olive oil 2 onions, peeled and chopped 4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 80g dark chocolate skin of ½ an orange, finely chopped 200g fresh porcini (use frozen if fresh are not available, but defrost before using) FOR THE DUMPLINGS

300g cubed, cold butter 400g flour salt and pepper 2 tablespoons baking powder 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme 300ml cold water

1. Rub the cold butter into the flour.

Season. Add the baking powder and herbs. Work in the cold water to make a soft dough, but do not overwork it. Divide the dough and use your hands to roll it into ping pong ball shapes.

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

2. Cut the venison into chunks and place them into a large bowl. Add the cloves. Press the juniper berries down to squash slightly and add them to the meat together with the herbs. Season, then pour the wine all over. Cover the bowl with cling film and let the meat marinate in the fridge for 6 hours. 3. Place flour into a large deep plate and season it with salt and pepper. Use a slotted spoon to remove meat from the marinade. Reserve the marinade and roll the venison meat through the seasoned flour. 4. Heat the butter with 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil in a large casserole pot. Fry the venison chunks in batches to brown them and then set them aside. 5. Fry the onions and garlic in the

same pot for a few minutes, then return the browned venison to the pot and add half the marinade. Bring the pot to the boil and let it bubble away for 20 minutes.

6. Now, reduce the heat, add the

rest of the marinade, the chocolate, and the orange peel. Cover the pot and let it simmer for 30 minutes. Add the porcini and stir them in. Check and adjust the seasoning.

7. Carefully add the shaped dumplings over the stew, cover the pot again and let it cook for a further 30 minutes on a very low heat.

FESTIVE FOOD T&F

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

T&F FESTIVE FOOD

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

FESTIVE FOOD T&F

YOU WILL NEED

Quail

“Wellington” Serves: 4

Preparation & cooking: 1 hour

Recommended wine: Californian Pinot Noir or New Zealand Syrah

This is an easy dish to impress family or guests. Buy boneless quail, and the rest is a walk in the park. The stuffing may be prepared the day before and stored in the fridge. I served these with a basic red wine and cream sauce.

4 boneless quail 1 block good quality puff pastry 1 egg beaten with 2 tablespoons milk FOR THE STUFFING

100g salted butter 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped 300g chestnut mushrooms, cleaned and chopped finely ½ teaspoon fresh thyme 1 small glass dry white wine salt and pepper 1 handful fresh white breadcrumbs 4 pieces foie gras (optional)

1. Prepare the stuffing first. Melt the

butter in a large pan and sauté the onions gently for about 5 minutes, stirring often. Do not allow them to colour. Add the chopped mushrooms and thyme. Mix well and cook them gently for 15 minutes.

2. Turn the heat up and douse the mixture with the wine and let it evaporate. Season well then stir in the breadcrumbs to make sure they amalgamate well. 3. Lay the quail on a board, season with salt and pepper. Spread the mushroom stuffing over the meat, and place a piece of foie gras in the middle of each quail, if using. Roll up each quail, tucking in the neck flap. 4. Place the puff pastry onto a floured surface and use a rolling pin to open it out into a square. Cut it into 4 equal pieces. Use a brush to spread some egg wash along the edges. Place one quail onto each square of pastry, breast down, then bring the pastry up to seal each bird in a parcel. Press along the pastry seams to seal them and then turn them over so that the seam is underneath. 5. Place the pastry-wrapped quail

onto an oven tray lined with baking paper. Brush the pastry all over with egg wash and store the quail in the fridge until needed. Remove them from the fridge a good 15 minutes before baking.

6. Pre-heat oven to 200°C (190°C,

if fan-operated, or gas mark 6) and make sure it is properly heated before baking the quail until they are golden brown (16-18 minutes maximum).

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T&F FESTIVE FOOD

Roast Grouse

with a Sage and Onion Stuffing Serves: 4

Preparation & cooking: 2 hours

Recommended wine: Burgundy Pinot Noir

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No Christmas is complete for me without sage and onion. It is what my mother would always stuff the turkey with and when, in later years, she would try new ways with the poor bird, I would prepare a little sage and onion stuffing just for myself. This would certainly be incomplete without a side of bread sauce. Here, I used partly boned Grouse. You could replace this with quail, poussin or even regular chicken.

FESTIVE FOOD T&F

YOU WILL NEED

4 part-boned Grouse 4 sprigs thyme 80g butter 16 thin rashers streaky bacon FOR THE SAGE & ONION STUFFING

450g white onions, peeled and finely chopped 300ml salted water 75g salted butter 1 heaped tablespoon chopped fresh sage 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley 250g fresh white breadcrumbs salt and pepper 1 egg

1. To make the stuffing,

place the onions together with the seasoned water into a pot. Bring it to the boil and let it cook for 15 minutes. Drain the onions and return them to the pot. Add the butter and sage and stir on very low heat till the butter is melted. Add the parsley and breadcrumbs, season, and mix well. Let the mixture cool then stir in one beaten egg.

2. Rub the birds dry with kitchen paper, season the cavities and stuff them with the prepared filling. Melt the butter in a pan and add the thyme. Put the birds in the pan and brown them all over, then remove from the heat. Cover the grouse with bacon. 3. Heat the oven to 220°C (gas mark 7) 4. Place the grouse in the same pan you used to brown them, put it in the oven and roast the birds for 20 minutes. Baste once during cooking. 5. Remove the birds from

the oven and let them rest, covered with foil, for 5 minutes. Serve with the bread sauce.

BREAD SAUCE

Serve this with the sage and onion stuffed grouse. YOU WILL NEED

1 medium onion 10 cloves 1 fresh bay leaf 600ml fresh whole milk 150g fresh white breadcrumbs 50g butter salt and pepper

1. To prepare the sauce, stud the onion with the cloves and place it in a saucepan with the bay leaf and milk. Add some salt and pepper. 2. Bring the pot to a gentle boil and let it simmer for 5 minutes before taking it off the heat. Cover the pot and let the mixture infuse for 1 hour.

3. Bring the pot back to the boil and add the breadcrumbs and butter. Stir the mixture till it thickens. This will take about 4 minutes. Remove the studded onion and serve the sauce at once.

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T&F FESTIVE FOOD

Wild Boar Fillets

stuffed with prunes and pistachios Serves: 6-8 persons

Preparation & cooking: 1 hour

Recommended wine: This dish can stand up to the might of Amarone di Valpolicella or Californian Cabernet Sauvignon

YOU WILL NEED

2 wild boar fillets 100g pancetta, cut into small cubes 25g butter 1 small onion, peeled and chopped finely 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 2 twigs fresh rosemary, leaves removed and chopped finely salt and pepper 100g shelled pistachio nuts, chopped 16 - 18 prunes 275g streaky bacon butter, to fry 240ml dry white wine

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

Rich and delicious, with a slightly earthier flavour than regular pork, wild boar is easy to prepare and cook. When buying the meat, ask your butcher to clean the fillets from any sinew and open up them up to flatten them out. Here, we accompanied the roast boar with truffled pomme purée. You can substitute the wild boar with pork fillets, if you prefer. 1. Heat a non-stick frying pan and

add the chopped pancetta and butter. Stir fry for several minutes to brown the meat well before adding the chopped onion and garlic. Cook for 2 minutes, then add the rosemary. Season well, but be careful with the salt. Leave the mixture to cool before stirring in the pistachio nuts. Set the mixture aside to cool down.

2. Place the fillets onto a clean board, add seasoning and spread the meat with the cooled filling. Place the prunes in a line down the middle, then roll up tightly. Wrap the meat with the streaky bacon and tie it with kitchen twine.

3. Pre-heat the oven to 200°C (gas mark 6). 4. Meanwhile, heat some butter in a large roasting pan. Place the stuffed fillets into the pan and brown them evenly. Douse the meat with the white wine and let it evaporate slightly before transferring the pan to the oven. 5. Roast the meat for 35

minutes, until the internal temperature reaches 63°C. Remove the roasting pan from the oven, cover it with foil and let the meat rest for 5 minutes before slicing and serving it.

SEASONAL T&F

SWEET&SAVOURY

Make every day feel a little bit special, filled with colour and flavour. Food and photography: Claire Borg ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

T&F SEASONAL

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

SEASONAL T&F

Raspberry “Eaton Mess” Eaton mess is traditionally made with strawberries. I substituted them with raspberries for a different taste. Before baking the meringues, I sprinkle some dried rose petals on a few of them and some beetroot powder on others. This gives a nice finish with a vibrant pink colour and different textures. Meringues need to be stored in an airtight container and will keep well for at least a week. Make sure you pipe the meringues to the same size so they take the same length of time to cook. If you are making some bigger ones, place those on a separate tray and bake them for a bit longer. These is no need to add sugar to the cream as the sweetness from the meringues sweetens the cream and counteracts the tartness of the fruit.

Makes: 4 mini bowls FOR THE MERINGUES

4 egg whites at room temperature ½ teaspoon cream of tartar ½ teaspoon salt 150g castor sugar TO ASSEMBLE

crème fraiche meringues fresh raspberries

1. Whisk the egg whites until they start to become foamy. Add the

salt and cream of tartar (powder) and continue to whisk.

2. Slowly add the sugar one tablespoon at a time, making sure the sugar dissolves after each additional spoonful. Continue to whisk the mixture on a medium low speed until it forms stiff peaks (about 10-12 minutes). You should be able to upend the bowl without any of the mixture spilling out. 3. On lined baking trays, pipe the meringue mixture into the desired shape and size and place the trays into a warm oven set on 100°C to bake for around 90 minutes. 4. Let the meringues cool and store them in an airtight container until just before serving time. They will keep for several days. 5. To serve, lightly crush some meringues and fold them into the

crème fraiche. Spoon the meringue mixture into serving bowls, add the raspberries and top with more meringues. Serve immediately.

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T&F SEASONAL

Plum and Brie Sausage Rolls Thick, creamy Brie and sweet plum compôte give the humble sausage roll a festive touch. Serve these with drinks or as a starter.

Serves: 2-4 YOU WILL NEED

1 roll of frozen or chilled puff pastry (ready rolled) 6 sausages, such as Cumberland or pork, skin removed 200g Brie cheese 1 egg beaten some seeds for topping, such as sesame or nigella 6-8 tablespoons of plum compôte PLUM COMPÔTE

5 red plums (stone removed), roughly chopped 4 tablespoons sugar juice of ½ a lemon 100ml red wine ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1. First, make the compôte. Mix all the ingredients together in a pan and let the mixture simmer until the plums are cooked through and the juices reduce. Set the pan aside to cool. 2. To assemble the sausage rolls, open out the pastry and cut it into two pieces (to make two rolls). Lightly brush the upper sides of the pastry with beaten egg. 3. Now, place the skinned sausages end-to-end down the length of the pastry. Place pieces of brie on the side of the sausage, then the compôte over the top or on the other side. 4. Fold the pastry over the filling, ensuring that one side overlaps the other, and press down lightly to seal the edges. 5. Turn over the pastry rolls so that the seam

side is at the bottom. Brush the top with beaten egg and sprinkle with it with seeds.

6. Bake the sausage rolls in a preheated

oven at 220°C (or 210°C, if fan operated) until golden. Serve warm.

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

SEASONAL T&F

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

T&F SEASONAL

Mushroom and Barley Soup Making soup is soothing and this one’s flooded with flavour. Adding barley transforms a light starter into a satisfying meal.

Serves: 6 YOU WILL NEED

2 brown mushrooms, chopped 4 shitake mushrooms (or 1 portobello mushroom), chopped 6-8 pieces of dried porcini mushrooms 8 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed 1 leek, finely chopped 50g butter 2 carrots, peeled and diced 2 potatoes, peeled and diced 2 litres of chicken or vegetable stock 1 tablespoon fresh marjoram 500 ml boiling water 1 kg of cooked barley (boiled and drained) salt and pepper 200ml fresh cream

1. In a bowl, pour the boiling

water over the dried porcini and set the bowl aside while you prepare the soup.

2. In a large pot, melt the butter and gently cook the leek until it’s soft. Add the garlic and let it cook for a few seconds, then add the mushrooms. 3. Cook the mixture until the mushrooms start to soften, then add the marjoram and carrots. Remove the porcini from their water, chop them finely, add them to the pot and stir. 4. Add the liquid from the porcini, then the 2 litres of chicken or vegetable stock. Add the potatoes, cover the pan and let it simmer for about 40 minutes. 5. Just before serving, add the

barley and bring the soup to a simmer to make sure it has warmed through. Season to taste, add the cream, stir and serve.

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ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

T&F SEASONAL

Serves: 6 as a side

Cabbage with Caraway Seeds

Beetroot Hummus

This cabbage recipe was passed onto me by one of my closest friends, Olga, who is from the Czech Republic. I have visited Prague with her and I can tell you that food always tastes better when experienced with a local. In this recipe, the caraway seeds make a huge difference and elevate a simple vegetable to something very special. We usually serve it with roast goose.

Hummus is a versatile dish and can be whipped up in minutes using ingredients you probably already have in your larder. Adding beetroot gives hummus an unusual colour and a little extra taste. Serve this with flat bread and a green salad.

YOU WILL NEED

1 small or ½ a large Savoy Cabbage 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 tablespoon caraway seed 1 small onion or 1 small leek some water, if needed 1 tablespoon sugar 2 to 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar salt and pepper

1. Finley shred the cabbage

and set it aside. Cook the finely diced onion in the oil until soft. Add the caraway seeds and add the shredded cabbage.

Makes: 1 bowlful

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2. Cook until the mixture

until the cabbage starts to wilt. If you see the cabbage is too dry, add a little water. Cover the pan and let the mixture cook gently for about 10 minutes. 3. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then add the sugar and vinegar. I like this to taste a bit sour, so I like to add 3 or 4 tablespoons of vinegar, but adjust the flavour according to your taste. Serve this warm.

YOU WILL NEED

300g drained chick peas 120g canned beetroot 50ml fresh pomegranate juice or beetroot juice (from the can) 20ml olive oil 1 clove garlic 1 teaspoon tahini 1 tablespoon Greek yoghurt juice of half a lemon a sprinkle of ground cumin ½ teaspoon salt TO SERVE

sesame seeds chopped nuts pomegranate arils bean sprouts fresh coriander leaves

1. Put all the principal

ingredients in a bowl and use a stick blender to blitz the mixture until it is smooth.

2. Scrape the mixture into a serving bowl or pile it up on a plate. Serve this topped with sesame seeds, chopped nuts, pomegranate arils, bean sprouts and fresh coriander leaves.

y d a e r g n i h t every for

s a m t s i r Ch

Sweet Xmas

350g pack

Deluxe

“Torta Sbrisolona” - Crumble Cake

3.29

1kg = € 9.40

T&F SEASONAL

Almond, Pistacchio and Cardamom Loaf Makes:1 loaf

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

YOU WILL NEED

110g plain flour 60g ground almonds 40g ground pistachios 130g sugar ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom zest of ¼ lemon 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 egg 1 tablespoon Greek yoghurt 100ml vegetable oil 100ml milk

FOR THE GLAZE

50g icing sugar 10g beetroot powder (or substitute this with icing sugar and red food colouring) 20g milk or pomegranate juice TO GARNISH

shelled pistachios edible dried rose petals pomegranate arils

SEASONAL T&F

1. Rub the inside of a loaf tin with

butter and coat it with flour. Preheat the oven to 170°C.

2. Sift the flour and baking powder into a large bowl and mix in the almonds, pistachios, sugar and cardamom powder. 3. In another bowl, mix the wet ingredients and lemon zest. Pour the wet mixture into the dry mix and fold it in until just combined.

4. Pour the batter into the buttered and floured loaf tin and bake it in the preheated oven for about 35 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean. 5. When the cake is cooked, let it

cool in the loaf tin for 10 minutes, then turn it out onto a wire rack to cool down completely.

6. To make the glaze, sift the icing

sugar and beetroot powder together. I used beetroot powder for a very vivid pink colour. If you do not have any beetroot powder just substitute it with icing sugar and red food colouring.

7. Add the liquid and mix the icing until it is smooth. Pour the glaze over the cake and garnish it with nuts, dried flowers and pomegranate arils.

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T&F SEASONAL

Apple “Strudel” Apple strudel is made with paper thin pastry, stretched gently by hand until it is almost transparent. Puff-pastry is different but approximates the taste of light, airy strudel. Nearly anything wrapped in puff pastry makes heads turn and sets nostrils twitching. This apple dessert is fit for any celebration and its melt-in-the-mouth goodness feels particularly Christmassy. Serve it warm with a good vanilla ice cream or at room temperature with a cup of tea. A sprinkle of icing sugar on top will make it just that bit more festive.

Serves: 4 YOU WILL NEED

1 roll ready-made puff pastry, chilled 5 apples 50g of raisins 1 tablespoon of butter 1 shot of rum or brandy 2 tablespoon brown sugar sprinkle of cinnamon a few tablespoons breadcrumbs or cake crumbs 1 egg, beaten icing sugar to serve

1. In a pan over a low heat, melt the butter.

Add the sugar and stir. Add the raisins and apples and turn up the heat.

2. When the mixture is sizzling hot, add the brandy and flambé it (do this carefully). 3. Reduce the heat, cover the pan and let it simmer till the apples are soft. When it’s done, the mixture should be soft and relatively dry. Remove the pan from the heat and set it aside to cool down. 4. When you’re ready to assemble the “strudel”, mix some bread or cake crumbs into the apple mix to soak up any juices. Open out the pastry roll on a work top, spoon the apple mixture into a line in the centre, then fold over the pastry, sealing the edges. 5. Turn over the pastry roll so that the seam

side is at the bottom and brush the top with beaten egg. Bake the roll in a preheated oven set to 220°C (or 210°C, if fan operated) until it turns golden all over.

6. Serve warm, and sprinkled with

icing sugar just before serving.

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T&F WINE

BEARING

GIFTS

Andrew Azzopardi on how to choose the perfect wine gift for any occasion

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

WINE T&F

very year, I promise myself to start my Christmas shopping as early as possible. Every year, I fail. I invariably rush around the main high streets like a headless chicken, looking for presents at the last minute. Worst of all, I’m often disappointed with the present I bought and wish I had given myself more time. A case of mea culpa, mea máxima culpa. Yet, I never learn. It’s the same with birthdays, anniversaries, and any other day of the year where its customary to present someone with a well-thought-out gift. My better half, on the other hand, has a little folder aptly named “gifts” tucked away on her mobile phone, to which she keeps adding ideas and thoughts throughout the year. Months before the day, she’s not only researched all the available options, but already bought the ideal gift that will habitually outdo the bottle of perfume I bought her at the last minute. It is not the value of the gift that makes my wife so much better than me, but the well thoughtout, organised process. Her gifts are always personal. Gifting wine should be personal too. Wine is one of the most common presents we give throughout the year. Whether you’re invited over to a friend for a casual barbecue, are looking for a different kind of anniversary present or as a way of showing appreciation, a bottle of wine, or a wine-related gift, can be ideal. The choices and budgets are endless. When gifting wine for a special occasion, where you think the host will open the wine immediately, it makes sense to choose something that could pair with the food. More specifically, if you’re invited over for a casual sushi dinner, a pungent New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or Pouilly-Fumé from Loire Valley would be an ideal pairing, whereas a slightly chilled, young, and fruity Pinot Noir or Zinfandel could work a charm for those summer barbeques. Sometimes, we want to present the host with something more special, maybe for them to hold onto for a later date. In this case, it would be desirable to offer a bottle of wine that would not necessarily pair with dinner that particular day. I may state the obvious here, but if you’re after giving something for the long term, you need to spend a little more than what you would on an everyday bottle of wine.

Knowing a bit about the person to whom you will be gifting will do wonders in choosing the right wine.

I don’t want to sound like a wine-snob here, but you cannot expect the host to hold on to a €10 bottle of wine for the long term. No disrespect to the 10 euro-club, but that type of wine just doesn’t age well. These wines can be great when drunk within a year of two of purchase, but keeping them in your cellar for longer than that will do no good. We don’t need to spend crazy amounts of money. If you go to a wine specialist, it’s not too hard to find a bottle of wine for less than €25 that would be suitable for aging. I suggest looking for a wine from lesser-known regions such as Jura in France, or even lesser-known appellations such as Santenay in Burgundy, instead of Chassagne Montrachet, if you want to get exceptional wines for half the cost. Knowing a bit about the person you will be gifting will do wonders in choosing the right wine. If they have just returned from a trip to Spain, an aged Rioja or fashionable Ribera del Duero will surely be appreciated,

whereas if you were recently discussing American cult movies, then surely a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon would go down a treat when watching “Pulp Fiction” for the umpteenth time. One of my favourite gifting techniques is going for a bottle of wine of a specific vintage year that has a special meaning to the receiver. Whether it’s a 50-year-old vintage port for a birthday or a fine wine from the same vintage year as a couple’s anniversary, the vintage bottle is a fantastic throwback to the year they got married – history in a bottle. When choosing old bottles of wine, however, take great care that the wine itself is not way past its best or oxidised. Not all wines can age, so your wine merchant should be able to guide you on the wines that would still be fantastic to drink at such an age. When in doubt, go for anything that is fortified or sweet such as Port, Madeira, sweet PX Sherry or “noble rot” wines such as Sauternes, or Tokaji from Hungary.

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WINE T&F

No gift list would be complete without the mention of sparkling wines, renowned for bringing celebration and sparkle to any party. Unless, they are in PR or fashion, where they may have become bored of drinking Champagne, most wine aficionados would enjoy a good old bottle of bubbly. If you can afford to spend a little bit more to get your hands on a vintage-dated Champagne, the jump in quality of the wine is huge, and often worth the extra pinch. It’s true that Champagne is not exactly a go-to value for wine, but there are other alternatives that can reach the sweet spot. Cava is made in exactly the same way as Champagne and usually at less than half the cost, whereas Italian Franciacorta has similar traits and flavours that are often worth every cent. Why not explore the sparkling wines from Britain? They have been up and coming for a while now and are giving Champagne a right challenge. Hurry up though, because their prices are skyrocketing fast. What about gifting wine to connoisseurs and wine-geeks? Yes, I hear we can be a little bit daunting to buy a wine gift for. The upside of being a wine geek, is that sometimes brands can be less important as long as the wine is well made. I would appreciate trying something new every time. Even it’s not my favourite, it always an experience to appreciate. Now may be the time to go for something unusual. Try the new Chinese wine by the Rothschild family, an Israeli Chardonnay, a cap Classique from South Africa or that Tasmanian Pinot Noir you were recommended by the guy at the wine-shop. If you still think you’re way out of your depth to choose, bear in mind that most winelovers are also lovers of good food. That opens a whole new array of gift ideas. Foie gras, aged stilton cheese, Jamón Ibérico de Bellota or even that hard to come-by, artisan olive-oil from a little town in Spain. Wine-related goodies are just as fun. You can opt for something technical and practical but also beautiful like specialist wine glasses best suited to specific grapes. Those beautifully shaped Pinot Noir-specific wine glasses would be appreciated by the chap who’s into his Burgundy wine. While on the subject, wine lovers never have enough decanters. You can choose from so many shapes, sizes and styles that you are bound to find one that you, and your pocket are comfortable with.

Photo by David Prahl

Most wine-lovers are also lovers of good food. That opens a whole new array of gift ideas. Corkscrews are often quite a personal preference and personally speaking, nothing beats a good old waiter’s-friend style, but those who enjoy mature wines would appreciate the “Ah-So” wine opener. These strange looking contraptions are simply a twopronged key-shaped device that slides in-between the cork and the neck of the bottle to assist in extracting even the most delicate of corks from older bottles and can be a godsend when opening vintage wines with crumbling corks. Other incredible ideas for winerelated gifts to those looking to experiment and discover new wines are subscription boxes, where each month (or quarter) a box of 3 or 6 different wines are sent to the receiver’s house with a detailed description of each. These subscription boxes are a great way to discover new grapes, styles and regions for those wanting to learn what they like or simply uncover new wines to enjoy. Those wishing to take it up a notch, can even gift a full wine appreciation course. There are several different wine-appreciation courses held around the island. Some are quite technical, whereas others are held in a more casual setting, as a social wine-

discovery journey which can be fun for individuals and couples looking for new things to do during the colder winter months. If weekly sessions are too much of a burden, gifting themed “masterclass” wine sessions can be the better choice. If you know that the receiver of the gift is into Italian wines, why not enrol them onto an “Italian wine” Masterclass, or “Champagne” masterclass if they prefer the bubby kind. These classes can be perfect for beginners and wine aficionados alike. Choosing wine and wine-related gifts can be a whole load of fun. Whether it’s a one-off bottle or a fullblown wine course, the choices are incredibly vast. As with other gifts the more personal the gift, the better the reaction. Take time to research a little bit on the wines or choices you have and don’t be shy to ask the specialist at the wine shop for a little bit of help. I can assure you that if the guy at the wine shop round the corner is passionate about wine, he will do his utmost to help you find the perfect gift. n Andrew Azzopardi is a wine specialist certified by the Wine and Spirit Education Trust.

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

T&F EASY MEALS

A bowlful of warm comfort Slow-cooked stew, perfect for a long, lazy evening or a languid Sunday. Cooking: Amy Mallia • Photography: Megan Mallia The rich, deep flavour of this Irish beef stew develops over several hours of simmering in stout beer. Serve it with creamy mashed potatoes and plenty of bread to mop up the juices.

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EASY MEALS T&F

YOU WILL NEED

Serves: 6

Preparation & cooking: 3 hours

1.25 kg slow cooking beef (chuck, boneless short rib) 450ml stout beer • 750ml beef stock 2 tablespoons olive oil • 3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed 2 brown onions, peeled and chopped 180g bacon or pancetta, chopped 3 tablespoons flour • 4 tablespoons tomato paste 3 carrots, peeled and cut into chunks • 2 bay leaves 4 sprigs fresh thyme • 2 stalks of celery, chopped ½ teaspoon salt • 1 teaspoon crushed black pepper

1. Trim the beef and cut it into large chunks. Mix

the flour with the salt and pepper and roll the beef chunks in the mixture till well-coated.

2. Place a heavy-bottomed pot over high heat and warm up the oil. Working in batches, add the floured beef chunks and brown them all over. Remove the cooked meat and set it aside. 3. Now, lower the heat and add the garlic and onion and let them cook till they soften. Add the bacon and stir until it is browned, then add the carrots and chopped celery. 4. Pour it the stout and beef broth and add the tomato paste, thyme and bay leaves. Next, put the browned beef back into the pot. 5. Lower the heat, cover the pot and let it simmer

gently for two hours, then remove the lid and let the pot simmer for another 40 minutes. Alternatively, use an oven-proof pot with a cover and let the pot bake in the oven for 2 ½ hours at 160°C, then bake it uncovered for another 40 minutes. The beef will be tender and the sauce reduced and thickened.

6. Remove the thyme sprigs and bay leaves, and

skim any fat off the surface before serving.

The origins of Irish stew Before they became a comfort food, stews were made out of necessity. In harsh social conditions, with just an open fire and a suspended pot for cooking, it took only a few ingredients for families to make and share a meal that was wholesome, nutritious, and kept them warm. The basic stew ingredients were onions and potatoes – vegetables that stored well through long, hard winters – and whatever meat could be had. Mutton was commonly used in the stew pot as it was more easily available than beef and, as sheep were kept as long as possible for their wool and milk, the meat was tough and would be cooked slowly for a longer time to tenderise it.

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T&F FESTIVE FOOD

Special MAKE IT

Spread some seasonal cheer with a gift of home-made sweet and savoury treats Photography: Corinne Vella

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FESTIVE FOOD T&F

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

A GIFT EVERY DAY... Only on the McDonald’s App

FESTIVE FOOD T&F

YOU WILL NEED

1 egg, lightly beaten 120g plain flour 120g chilled, unsalted butter 120g finely grated salty cheese, like Parmesan or Pecorino 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 1 handful nigella seeds

Cheese and pepper biscuits

Light and melt-in-the mouth, these are perfect for serving with drinks.

1. Cut the chilled butter into

small cubes and rub it into the flour until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Crush the peppercorns and add them to the mixing bowl. Add the grated cheese and stir until all the ingredients are well mixed.

2. Roll out the dough into a cylinder shape, wrap it in clingfilm and chill it in the fridge for at least one hour, or until needed. When it’s time to bake the biscuits, spread the nigella seeds on a flat dish, unwrap the dough, brush it with beaten egg, and roll it in the seeds until it is evenly coated all round. It’s easier to do this if you divide the roll into two pieces. 3. Pre-heat the oven to 180°C (160°C if fan-operated, or gas mark 4) and set the oven shelf halfway up. 4. Use a sharp knife to cut the dough into slices and space them out on a baking tray lined with non-stick paper. Leave enough space in between the biscuits to allow them to spread out while baking. Bake in a pre-heated oven for 9 minutes, then transfer them to a cooling rack. They will firm up as they cool down.

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T&F FESTIVE FOOD

Packed with fruit, nuts, and spices, and drenched in brandy, this takes time to make and mature, but is worth the effort and makes a lovely gift.

Christmas Cake YOU WILL NEED

230g flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 pinch salt 1 teaspoon cinnamon, finely ground 1 whole nutmeg, finely grated ½ teaspoon mace, finely ground 230g sultanas 230g black currants 100g almonds, unsalted 115g raisins 56g glacé cherries 56g mixed candied peel 230g soft brown sugar juice and zest of 1 lemon juice and zest of 1 orange 5 eggs 6 tablespoons brandy TO DECORATE

candied orange slices apricot jam unsalted pistachio nuts FOR THE CANDIED ORANGE SLICES

1 large orange sugar water

1. Roughly chop the

almonds, glacé cherries, and candied peel and put them in a large bowl with the dried fruit. Add the spices, lemon and orange zest and stir. Pour in the lemon and orange juice and brandy and stir again. Cover the bowl and set it aside for a few days, stirring occasionally. Add more brandy if the mixture seems dry.

2. When it’s time to bake, rub the inside of a cake tin with butter and coat it with flour, and preheat the oven to 110°C. 3. Sift the flour together with the baking powder and salt. Beat the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy, then beat in the eggs one at a time with a spoonful of the flour mix. Spoon in the fruit mixture and mix well. Add the remaining flour and stir the mixture again. 4. Scoop the batter into the prepared cake tin. Wrap the tin in a double layer of

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

brown paper and tie it with string. Bake the cake in a slow oven (110°C) for 2-3 hours (the brown paper will ensure that the outside doesn’t overcook) until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. 5. Let the cake cool in

its tin for a few minutes, then turn it out onto a wire rack and let it cool down completely.

6. Use a skewer to poke

holes in the surface of the cake and drizzle it liberally with brandy. Wrap up the cake in foil and store in a cool, dry place. Every few days, unwrap the cake to add more brandy. Then wrap it up again and store it away.

7. To make the candied

oranges, start by slicing a clean, unwaxed orange thinly. Put the slices in a pan with enough fresh water to cover them properly and bring the pot to a boil. Then, turn down the heat and let the pot simmer for 10 minutes.

8. Use a slotted spoon to remove the orange slices from the pan and reserve the cooking water to make the syrup. Add 1 spoonful of sugar for every 2 spoonfuls of water (you may need to add more water) and stir the mixture over a low heat until the sugar dissolves. 9. Put the orange slices

back in the pan and let it simmer over a low heat until the liquid begins to caramelise (around 20 minutes). Remove the pan from the heat and let it stand for 30 seconds, then transfer the orange slices onto a tray lined with nonstick paper, and let them cool down completely.

10. To decorate the cake,

melt apricot jam over a low heat and run it through a fine sieve. Brush the melted jam over the surface of the cake and top it with candied orange slices and pistachio nuts, then brush the whole surface with a thin layer of melted jam and allow it to set.

T&F FESTIVE FOOD

Ginger Cake

Crumbly, moist, and shot through with the tang of ginger, this can be served as a sweet treat or as an accompaniment to mature, crumbly cheese. It will keep for up to two weeks in an airtight container, if there’s any left over.

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FESTIVE FOOD T&F

YOU WILL NEED

100g plain flour 130g Demerara sugar 150g butter, unsalted 50g ground almonds 2 eggs, lightly beaten 80ml brandy 75g sultanas 80g raisins 80g currants 30g walnuts, very finely chopped 160g dried apricots 4 tablespoons apricot jam 30g candied peel 5-6 pieces preserved ginger (see recipe below) ½ teaspoon ground ginger juice of half a small lemon

1. Preheat the oven to

150°C (gas mark 2). Rub the inside of a deep cake tin with butter and coat it with flour.

2. Cut the candied ginger into small pieces. Reserve several apricots to top the cake. Put the rest in a pan with the brandy, dried fruit, chopped walnuts, butter, sugar, lemon juice, candied peel, and ginger pieces. 3. Heat the pan gently until the butter melts, then bring it to the boil. Turn the heat down and let it simmer for a couple of minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and set it aside to cool down (about 12 minutes).

4. Sift the flour into a bowl and mix in the ground almonds and ground ginger. Make a well in the centre and tip in the fruit mixture. Add the beaten eggs and stir everything together. Pour the mixture into the cake tin and use the back of a wet spoon to level the surface.

Spiced Nuts

Spicy, salty, buttery, and sweet, these can be served warm as an accompaniment to drinks.

5. Wrap the cake tin in

a double layer of brown paper and secure it with string or staples. This will stop the cake over-browning. Bake the cake in the preheated oven till an inserted skewer comes out clean (90-105 minutes). Let the cake cool in the tin for about 10 minutes, then turn it out onto a rack to cool down completely.

6. To decorate, heat

the apricot jam and run it through a fine sieve. Brush the molten jam over the cake surface and top with an overlapping layer of whole, dried apricots. Brush the fruit all over with the rest of the jam and allow it to set before storing the cake.

Preserved ginger YOU WILL NEED

ginger root • water • sugar

1. Freeze the ginger for a few hours, then use a sharp

knife to scrape off the peel. Let the ginger defrost completely and then chop it into 1.5cm pieces. Put these in a pan and cover them with cold water, then bring the pan to the boil and let it simmer for 30 minutes.

2. Use a slotted spoon to remove the ginger and set it aside. Add sugar to the reserved liquid – 1 spoonful of sugar for every 2 spoonfuls of water. Stir over a low heat until the sugar dissolves, then put the ginger back in the pan and let it simmer uncovered for around 45 minutes. 3. Let the mixture cool down before storing the ginger and syrup in a sterilised jar.

YOU WILL NEED

1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 tablespoon maple syrup 1 pinch crushed black pepper 1 pinch crushed sea salt flakes ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 teaspoon butter 1 handful mixed, unsalted nuts (almonds, cashews, macadamia nuts, hazelnuts, pistachio nuts)

1. Put the nuts in a bowl and sprinkle them

with the sauce, syrup, peppers, and salt. Toss them until they’re well coated.

2. Melt the butter in a thick-bottomed pan set on a low heat. When it starts to foam, throw in the nuts and quickly stir them with a wooden spoon. 3. Scoop the spiced nuts into a heat-proof serving dish and sprinkle with a pinch of crushed sea salt flakes. Serve warm. Alternatively, allow them to cool down and store them in an airtight jar. Just before serving, toss the nuts in a pan over a low heat for a couple of minutes, or blitz them in the microwave oven.

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T&F FESTIVE FOOD

Meat pie

with cranberry and redcurrant topping Traditionally, this pie is filled with a jelly made from meat stock after it’s cooked. We left out that part, added more herbs, and enjoyed the pie just as much.

1. First, prepare the filling.

Chop the pork, bacon, and chicken into small pieces and finely chop the herbs and mix them together. Stir in the mace, nutmeg, salt, and crushed black pepper.

2. Next, make the pastry. Put the flour into a mixing bowl. Melt the butter in a pan with the water and salt. As soon as the butter melts, remove the pan from heat and stir the mixture well. Pour the liquid into the flour and stir rapidly until a dough forms. Turn it out onto a floured surface and knead it for a few minutes. 3. Preheat the oven to 180°C (160°C if fanoperated, or gas mark 4). Brush the inside of a deep 20cm cake tin with melted butter and coat it with flour.

YOU WILL NEED

400g pork shoulder, deboned 125g pork belly, skin removed 450g chicken drumsticks, deboned 200g smoked, streaky bacon 1 teaspoon ground mace 1 whole nutmeg, finely grated 2 teaspoons crushed black pepper 1 teaspoon sea salt 2 fresh bay leaves 5 sprigs thyme (leaves only) 8 sage leaves 1 small bunch fresh parsley 150ml pork stock (optional) 1 leaf of gelatin (optional)

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FOR THE PASTRY

140g unsalted butter 560g plain flour 150ml water ½ teaspoon sea salt 1 beaten egg (for the glaze) oil FOR THE TOPPING

230g fresh cranberries (not frozen or dried) 150g redcurrant jelly

4. Set aside 1/3 of the pastry for the pie lid and roll out the rest into a circle around 3mm thick. Line the prepared cake tin with the rolled-out dough, pushing it into the corners and patching up the tears as you go. Spoon in the filling, press it down firmly to remove any air pockets and level the surface. This should be at least 2cm below the edge of the tin. 5. Roll out the rest of

the dough and cover the pie. Use a fork to seal the pastry edges. Poke a hole in the middle of the lid using the handle of a wooden spoon, to let the steam escape as the pie cooks, and brush the surface with beaten egg.

6. Bake the pie at 180°C for

30 minutes then turn down the heat to 150°C (130°C if fan-operated, or gas mark 2) and bake for a further 90 minutes. The core temperature should be 75°C when it’s done. Remove the pie from the oven and let it stand for 20 minutes, then remove it from the tin and let it cool down.

7. If you’re adding the jellied stock, start by putting the gelatin leaf in a little cold water and warm up the pork stock. Lightly squeeze the gelatin leaf and stir it into the warmed stock until it dissolves. Pour the liquid into a jug and use a small funnel (or an icing bag with a narrow nozzle) to pour the stock into the pie through the hole in its lid. Pour the liquid a little at a time to allow it to run down the inside. Set the pie aside for a couple of hours until the jellied stock sets. 8. To prepare the topping, put the redcurrant jelly in a pan and let it melt over a low heat. Add the cranberries, stir them until well coated in the redcurrant jelly and let them cook for 2-3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat if the berries start to burst. Spoon the cranberry mixture over the top of the pie and let it set. 9. Serve the pie at

room temperature.

T&F FESTIVE FOOD

Mini-pudding This is prepared over a couple of days and then cooked for several hours. It seems an overly long time, but actually involves very little work and the pudding can then be stored for a year or more while it matures. YOU WILL NEED

50g prunes 175g sultanas, raisins, currants 50g dark muscovado sugar 50g walnuts 50g almonds, blanched 50g ground almonds 50g bread crumbs 4 tablespoons dark rum 30g plain flour 50g butter, cut into very small pieces 1 nutmeg, finely grated 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon mace 1 teaspoon mixed spice 50g glacé cherries 50ml stout 2 medium-sized eggs, lightly beaten TO DECORATE

red currants fresh, green leaves

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1. Stir the prunes, dried fruit, sugar,

rum and stout together in a mixing bowl. Cover the bowl and let it stand for 24 hours. Next, mix in all the other ingredients and let the bowl stand (covered) for another 24 hours.

2. Rub a round-bottomed, heatproof bowl with butter and spoon in the pudding mixture. Press it down lightly to ensure it is firmly packed. Cover the bowl with a sheet of baking paper and top that with a sheet of foil. Tie the cover down securely using kitchen string.

3. Put a saucer face down in a large pan to act as a stand for the pudding bowl. Pour in water till the pan is one-quarter full. It should be about one-third up the side of the bowl. Bring the water to the boil then turn the heat down to a slow simmer and let the pot simmer for 6 hours. Top up the water from time to time to make sure it does not dry out completely. 4. Remove the pudding bowl from the pan and set it aside to cool down. Replace the cover with fresh sheets of baking paper and foil. Before serving, warm up the pudding in its bowl, then remove the foil and paper cover and turn out the pudding onto a serving dish. Garnish with red currants and fresh leaves and serve warm.

T&F INTERIORS

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INTERIORS T&F

VILLA CASTRO W

hen Villa Castro’s current owners bought the house, it had been designed, restored, and renovated by AP Valletta in collaboration with Jens Bruenslow, but had not yet been lived in. The new owners brought in Claire Galea as their interior designer to give the interior a more personal touch and turn it into their future home. The main focus of her brief was the older part of the house and transforming the previously white-washed, empty rooms into an elegant but welcoming family home.

Interior design: Claire Galea Photography: Brian Grech Design, restoration, and renovation: AP Valletta in collaboration with Jens Bruenslow

AWARD-WINNING ARCHITECTURE AP Valletta’s collaboration with Jens Bruenslow on Villa Castro earned the project the 2016 Din L-Art Ħelwa Heritage Award. The following year, the project was shortlisted for a World Architecture Festival award and the Biennial Barbara Cappochin International Architecture Prize. Since October this year, Villa Castro has been scheduled as a Grade 2 protected building by the Planning Authority.

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T&F INTERIORS

“When I entered the villa, I was in awe,” interior architect Claire Galea says. “The extension by AP Valletta and Jens Bruenslow was impeccable – the volumes created, the sensitive use of materials and the way these complemented the original architecture was so inspiring. I knew that any interventions or additions I made to the place had to respect and reflect their approach and work.” After spending some time studying the site, one of the main things Claire wanted to tackle for her clients was the transition from the older part of the building to the contemporary, creating a more seamless flow that works better for family life. Previously, as you entered the villa, you were faced with two doorways, one leading to the area ear-marked to be a dining room and another leading to the original stone staircase and living area. Claire decided to close off the doorway leading to the dining room, turning it into a window with a view through the room all the way to the kitchen and breakfast area. This change now directs the flow from the entrance to the house towards the main staircase and living areas.

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INTERIORS T&F

“Above the panelling, the walls are painted in gradients, creating a cosy, intimate feeling in the highceiling room.”

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T&F INTERIORS

You enter the house through what is a distinctly classical façade. To reflect this character, Claire introduced wall panelling to the interior, wrapping it around the lower part of the walls, and brought in furniture with traditional elements and patterns, and colours in classical tones. In the dining room, wall panelling and warm colour tones and materials helped to create a contemporary look that blends into the traditional context. Above the panelling, the walls are painted in gradients, creating a cosy, intimate feeling in the high-ceiling room. As it stood, the dining room felt segregated from the rest of the house and with very little natural light, so Claire opened up a large arched doorway at the far end, mirroring the other arched doorways to the adjacent courtyard. This allows more natural light to enter the room and eases access from the kitchen and connection to the main living space of the house, which is more accommodating to busy family life.

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The main material in the kitchen is oak, inspired by the existing materials of the main staircase in the adjacent space, with “Taj Mahal” quartzite as a worktop. The travertine flooring and quartzite worktop were supplied by Halmann Vella.

WHATEVER YOU WISH FOR THIS CHRISTMAS...

NAXXAR - 21st September Avenue T: 2142 2948/9 Extended opening hours for December Monday 13 Dec - 11am to 5pm Saturday 18 Dec - 9.30am to 7pm Sunday 19 Dec - 11am to 5pm Monday 20 Dec - Friday 24 Dec - 9.30am to 7pm

SLIEMA - Qui-Si-Sana Seafront T: 2132 3155/65 Extended opening hours for December Monday 13 Dec - 11am to 5pm Saturday 18 Dec - 10am to 7pm Sunday 19 Dec - 11am to 5pm Monday 20 Dec - Friday 24 Dec - 10am to 7pm

T&F INTERIORS

In the living room and kitchen, which line the courtyard, Claire intentionally took a more minimalist and contemporary design approach as these areas enjoy views of the architects’ principal interventions: the contemporary extension to the villa and the stunning concrete and oak internal staircase. In contrast to the dining room, in the kitchen Claire’s design interventions draw attention to the height of the space. The kitchen cabinetry is planned to follow the proportions and shape of the room, running along one main wall and reaching up to a total height of three metres. The main material is oak, inspired by the existing materials of the main staircase in the adjacent space, with “Taj Mahal” quartzite as a worktop, which Claire recommended for its hardwearing properties, warmer tones, and linear vein. In the breakfast area, a bespoke canework pendant light in a larger-than-life size highlights the very high ceiling, and shelves introduced into the existing arched nooks create a pleasantly symmetrical backdrop.

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“I purposely left a gap running along the top of the new wall lining to respect and complement the architectural shape of the ceiling.”

T&F INTERIORS

The volume now occupied by the living room was once part of the outdoor space of the house. When the building was redesigned and renovated, the architects put in an atrium-style ceiling, closing off the area to make it part of the internal volume of the house and leaving all the walls in exposed stone. When Claire was brought into the project, she retained some of the walls in the original exposed stone, as a nod to the fact that the room once made up part of the outdoor space, and lined two of the walls. “It creates a warmer feeling,” she says, “and on a more practical note, these walls showed signs of humidity which meant that flaking stone would have been a problem to live with daily.” “The ceiling here is a very significant and eye-catching feature. I purposely left a gap running along the top of the new wall lining to respect and complement the architectural shape of the ceiling. By eliminating some of the exposed stonework, the room feels more welcoming and the wall lining helps to shift one’s focus to the ceiling. This creates a place for your eye to rest without other distractions, and makes this an all together very calming room.” In the master bedroom, on the upper floor in the older part of the house, Claire retained traditional elements, like the hardstone flooring and heavier curtains, and mixed in contemporary and antique furniture pieces. The room has been redecorated in a bold shade of navy, juxtaposed with a powdery pink. As in the dining room on the floor below, the walls are painted in gradients, with colour introduced up to a specific height on the walls which has the effect of visually lowering the high ceiling. “These are more intimate spaces in the home,” Claire says. “I wanted to make the owners feel more welcome in a room of overwhelming height.” www.clairegalea.com

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INTERIORS T&F

“I wanted to make the owners feel more welcome in a room of overwhelming height.”

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T&F TRANSFORMATION

ISSUE 143 DECEMBER 2021

TRANSFORMATION T&F

THE MEANING OF

HOME Main article: Corinne Vella Architecture and design team: Konrad Buhagiar, Rory Apap Brown, Kristina Kalnina Photography: Julian Vassallo

Home. Its meaning is both complex and simple, a loose collection of concepts that are deep and distantly historical and experiences that are present and immediate. It’s where we live, but also where we feel a sense of rootedness and belonging. Sometimes, that happens to be in the same place. More often, it’s a mosaic of different locations and experiences over a lifetime. Where we end up is where we live, but, in the end, we all want to be home.

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T&F TRANSFORMATION

“It’s full of messages that remind me of home.”

generation or two ago, the world was a different place, and that world was defined by the street where you lived, its periphery extending as far as the constellation of connections in your community. People knew who lived where and in which house. There was a neighbourhood, where communal connections and layers of history were compacted into people’s lives. People weren’t very mobile. You could spend an entire lifetime in the same social circle on the same set of streets.

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Above: “I am a great admirer of the Futurists and much of Italian art of the interwar period. This ‘Still Life with Oranges’ is by Giulio Cantoni, a fellow student of Antonio Sant’Elia with whom he studied and travelled. On the floor is an abstract painting by Laurent Muller.”

T&F TRANSFORMATION

The word “home” derives from the Old Norse “heima”, signifying both a physical place and a state of being.

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TRANSFORMATION T&F

e think of “home” as a place which is familiar, permanent, and unchanging, but the notion itself is elusive. It connotes a physical structure, but we can feel at home in a place where we have never lived. In an age of mobility and impermanence, what does “home” mean? Reams of research have not settled the question, but etymology offers some consolation. The word “home” derives from the Old Norse heima, signifying both a physical place and a state of being. Home, then, is both building and feeling, and they’re brought together, you can finally say you’ve come home. If the journey of life is about coming home, there could be no better place to go than back to where it began. AP Valletta’s executive director, Konrad Buhagiar, grew up with two brothers in a large family house in Sliema. It had stood empty for a while after their mother passed away. “And then it was like the house rebelled,” Konrad says. “Doors starting falling off their hinges. Everything started crumbling because it hadn’t been used. It was empty for at least 7 years, I would say. We eventually sold it to someone we knew. It’s all instigated by policies because it didn’t make sense to have a 2-storey house in the middle of a street where everything is 6 storeys high.”

“I had framed my architectural thesis called ‘The Renaissance of Valletta’, dated 1982, in order to save the fragile paper on which it is drawn from the ravages of time. It moved around a lot since then, was stored for a long period in the Lantern Restaurant in Valletta and is now back in Sliema where I drew it exactly forty years ago. On the left is a bronze copy of Mercury, God of Commerce, by Giambologna. It probably belonged to the Francia Collection.”

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T&F TRANSFORMATION

he house faced the same fate as many of the other houses in the same street, gutted out and replaced by a block of flats. But the façade remains, as do other elements of the old house, and the brothers who grew up there will return - each of them owns a flat in the building, Konrad’s is the one on the top floor. “Whatever I could keep, I kept,” he says. “All the old doors, the stone lions which were at the top of the house. The concertina doors [from the traditional gallarija] were turned into a wardrobe and the entrance to the bathroom.” He plans to replace what was lost in terms of green in the garden with plants on the terrace, where he put in patterned tiles, an echo of past times.

“The desk that belonged to my maternal grandmother’s brother, who was also my godfather to whom I was very attached as a small boy. He lived in this house so the desk must have spent most its life during the last seventy years on this very site. It only left my mother’s house when I took it to the restorer. It’s now happily settled back home.”

Whatever I could keep, I kept.

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T&F TRANSFORMATION

A Home in the Middle of the World Konrad Buhagiar first published this story of his family home in November 2016.

he street we lived in when I was a small boy was called New Street although there was nothing new about it by the time I came into the world. Two rows of similar terraced houses, two storeys high with projecting stone cornices and timber balconies, stepped gently down towards the waterfront promenade. From here one could descend a steep rusticated staircase down to the rocks and the water’s edge and dive into the icycool water of early June, or the flatcalm, silky September sea for a blue moment that was timeless. In my little head I had drawn up a map of the unhurried world I knew. It was small and defined, surrounded on three sides by the arc of the promenade and the sea beyond. You could glimpse a square patch of blue as you looked down our street or either of the two lateral streets that traversed it, dividing it into three sections of equal length. The top of the street was more closed and mysterious but I was aware of more building behind it that formed a suspicious area referred to, perhaps unfairly, as Lazy Corner. In this innocent town-plan, New Street was the axis of symmetry. Each section of the street became progressively narrower as it ascended the hill: a grand classical villa belonging to a very rich lady occupied the first third of the street. My brothers and I used to walk down unaccompanied to the beach in the shade of its leafy trees and bougainvillea reaching out beyond the high garden walls. In the topmost and narrowest stretch I imagined poorer, less charming people, who lived perilously close to the lazy population behind. We, on the other hand, were the happy and industrious ones in the sunny middle third of the street and our house was located in the middle of it. There was no other house quite like it. It was the only one with coupled Tuscan columns flanking the entrance and a sculpted coat-of-arms of the British Empire surmounting the main door together with the name of the residence, Satis House. My mother often reminded us that this was the name of Miss Havisham’s house in Great Expectations by Charles Dickens, and warned us of the dangers of hanging on too tenaciously to the past. She also explained that Satis was the Latin origin of the English ‘to be satisfied’. And I must say I was very satisfied to be the middle boy of the family and to inhabit the house in the middle of the middle stretch of the middle street of the known world, with a lion and a unicorn and a brother on either side to protect me. They say that the middle child always has a hard time battling with the demons on the periphery. This may be true for although my position in the middle was comfortable and stable, my curiosity soon pushed me out of the nest. I look back on those secure and carefree childhood years with nostalgia, but Miss Havisham’s tragedy was a lesson on how priceless is the exciting, albeit sometimes painful, world that exists outside the settled and predictable middle.

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“M

uch as I’m against the idea of pacifying our conscience by just keeping the façade, as you walk down the street and the façades are the same, it feels like the same street I was walking down as a child. You go in through the same door, through the same entrance. The orientation of the building is the same, so the sun hits the building at the same time and it has the same quality of light. It’s full of messages that remind me of home - the doors, the stone lions on the terrace, the wellhead from the garden which I’m going to try to move into the entrance. It feels like home.” n

Above: “The ‘Head of a Boy’ is by Joseph Briffa (1931), one of Malta’s leading church painters of the middle half of the 20th century. Also in the image are a terra-cotta cast of Hippocrates, a detail of ‘Mother and child’ by Madeleine Fenwick (2017) and of a poster for Trufrut, by Emvin Cremona (1958).” Right: “The folding ‘concertina’ doors were recycled from the old house and are now forming the bedroom wardrobes and bathroom door.”

TRANSFORMATION T&F

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T&F FOOD NOTES

Myristica Fragrans “The thick outer rind is very good made into a conserve and it has a pleasant taste. It comes from banda in jars of vinegar, and some people eat it in a salad. But all that comes to this land (i.e. India) is in the form of a conserve with sugar, a very beautiful fruit leaving an agreeable scent in the mouth.”

Zingiber officinale The strong flavour of Zingiber officinale (ginger) is what makes it so versatile, flavouring curries and sweet and sour dishes in Asia, and sweet and savoury foods in the Western world. But early records show that it was first used for health reasons. The Greek physician and botanish Dioscorides described its medical properties in de Materia Medica in the first century AD. Ibn Batuta, the medieval traveller and geographer, noticed that Chinese ships visiting India’s Malabar ports were “festooned with anti-scorbutic greenery including herbs, vegetables and ginger planted in wooden troughs.” During long voyages, the Chinese grew ginger on board their ships to protect sailors against scurvy. Its use as a spice was described by the 13th century explorer, Marco Polo, who saw the plant on his travels in Bengal and China. On long journeys by ship or land caravan to Europe, ginger was preserved either by drying it to prevent it sprouting, or candied in syrup. Fresh ginger is now readily available, thanks to refridgeration, but candied ginger remains popular, particularly at Christmas time. Stone honey When merchants and pilgrims travelled from India to China along the Silk Road, the journey would take several months or longer, depending on the weather conditions along the way. During the three-thousand mile journey, brown sugar, among the valuable delicacies transported by the trade caravans, would bind into a solid lump, and was known by the Chinese as “stone honey” for its sweetness and hardness. Taizong, second emperor of the Tang Dynasty and considered one of the greatest rulers in Chinese history for his reforms of the government and the laws and religious tolerance, enjoyed the taste of “stone honey” but asked his court to improve its colour. And so they did, coming up with a sugar as white as snow, which was transported by to India where it became known as Chini, “from China”.

Garcia da Orta, 1563, Colóquios dos simples e drogas da India, on discovering nutmeg in India

The historical spice route could be said to have originated in the Banda Islands in the remotest part of the Moluccas, the small group of islands to the north-east of Indonesia which earned the name Spice Islands for the crops they provided to profit-hungry explorers. Most of the land mass is made up of rainforest that blocked off any prospective trade route, so the only way to bring back the harvest was by sea. When the British finally took control of the Moluccas in 1796, cultivation of the nutmeg tree spread to other parts of Britain’s dominions which had a similar climate, including the Caribbean islands of Trinidad and Grenada. The national flag of Grenada includes a nutmeg symbol in the hoist.

Spiced wine Spiced wine has its origins in practicality. Leather flasks were once smeared with fragrant spices to preserve the quality of the wine. Gradually, this became an acquired taste and by the middle of the fourth century, the writer Palladius recorded the use of cassia, ginger and pepper which followed a recipe preserved among the Cretans who, according to popular tradition, had received it from the oracle of Delphi.

Ġulepp tal-Ħarrub Ġulepp sounds Maltese but is Arabic in origin. The term derives from jullab, the Arabic word for syrup, which was historically an important ingredient in sweets. Ġulepp tal-Harrub is made by breaking up clean carob pods and gently simmering them in water for several hours. The broken pods and beans will soften and are then removed from the warm liquid, which thickens as it cools down. 78

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Weekly Food Planner Meal planning may sound complicated and time-consuming. One usually thinks about meal planning from the end point, that is, when all recipes have been selected and all shopping has been done. This looks like a large task to do, and usually ‘insufficient time’ is the major factor why people do not plan their meals. Evidence shows that meal planning has been associated with better nutrition, weight management and, ultimately, good health. The simplest, and most effective way for meal planning is to structure it into three main domains: a. selecting recipes, b. shopping for ingredients, and c. prepping your meals. The first important move when planning meals is to discuss with all the family members the meals and snacks to be consumed throughout the week. One can fill the meal planner (see picture) for the week with the lunches and dinners to be prepared during that week. In the shopping list, write down which ingredients you need for the week’s meals and do not have at home. Finally, think of a strategy to prepare the meals and use any leftovers to make up quick light meals or snacks. It is imperative that you choose recipes which all the family like and are not complicated! Once all this gets into a routine, meal planning can save on time and help you keep within a food budget.

Meal Planning Saves on TIME, MONEY and WASTE

Weekly Meal

PLANNER

Shopping List

week of

BREAKFAST

LUNCH

DINNER

T&F WORLD TRADITIONS

STARS, EVERGREENS, NATIVITY & NUTCRACKERS Christmas is a time of love and celebration, so it’s no surprise that around the world, today as in yesteryear, decorating draws on warmth and tradition with the approach of the season. Article by Megan Mallia. Shining star The star motif is emblematic of the season, recalling the star that led the magi to the stable in Bethlehem. In the Philippines, it is the shape adopted by the parol, a traditional ornate Christmas lantern hung up as early as September. The parol is symbolic of light’s triumph over darkness. It is typically made of bamboo sticks and Japanese paper, illuminated by a candle placed at its centre, though nowadays it is usually plastic or fibreglass lit with lightbulbs. Another popular material for the lantern is capiz, a naturally iridescent shell resembling mother of pearl, which is native to the seas of Southeast Asia. Capiz is nicknamed “windowpane oyster” because it is used as a substitute for glass, and, just like stained glass, when used to make the parol it can be dyed dreamy, gem-like hues which give the streets a gorgeous glimmer and glow. Nativity, but not as you know it Christmas cribs are believed to have originated in Italy, when—as the story goes—Saint Francis of Assisi put together a live nativity scene in 1223. Eventually, figurines made it to the stage in lieu of live actors, but the attentive care put into cribs lived on. In Mexico, nacimientos—incredibly ornate nativity scenes— are popular, typically featuring extravagant rivers and waterfalls. A major difference between the traditional Maltese crib and the Mexican version is that the latter is a bit more liberal in the characters included in the scene. It’s not unusual to find Adam and Eve in the display, or zebras and giraffes, or even the devil himself.

Holiday spirit in a nutshell Though they are reminiscent of childhood Christmases, wooden nutcracker dolls, with their fuzzy white hair and beards, were not meant to be solely associated with Christmas. They were created in Germany centuries ago and it became customary to present them to children as gifts, after which they were then displayed in family homes as symbols of good fortune. But how did the now iconic nutcracker come about? One myth has it that a wealthy farmer offered a reward to the person with the most ingenious solution to cracking nuts open. It was the puppet maker who won, because of the iconic lever-mouthed doll. Tchaikovsky’s 1892 ballet, the libretto of which was based on Ernst Theodor Amadeus Hoffman’s beloved 1816 tale, helped the nutcracker achieve worldwide fame. Today, nutcracker dolls are decorative rather than functional, and are painted in all sorts of quirky colours. Enduring evergreen Before Christianity came into being, evergreen trees held a special place in people’s hearts in winter. Boughs were hung over doors and windows in the belief that the evergreen foliage would ward off evil spirits and illness. In the cold, dark winter that signified the ailment of their sun god, people needed that strength, something to bolster their spirit and remind them of the warmth and verdure that would return. (This happened at other times of year, too. In ancient Egypt, for example, palm rushes filled homes at the summer solstice, in celebration of the healing of Ra, the god of the sun.) The evergreen Christmas tree tradition we know today is said to have started in 16th century Germany. If a tree was hard to get hold of, you would have just had to make do with a pyramid of stacks of wood draped in foliage. The addition of candles to the tree is widely credited to protestant reformer Martin Luther who, enchanted by the stars in the silken night sky, wished to recreate their magic through candlelight for his family at home. Tree decorations differ from country to country. Sweden has one of the most deliciously tempting traditions: the tree’s branches are hung with home-baked gingerbread biscuits and strung on red satin ribbons. n

The next issue will be out in February next year with The Malta Independent on Sunday.

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