Preparing for Christmas is often the most fun part of the year. It’s the one time when you can be forgiven for overindulging and enjoying it. Amid the frenzied preparations, some would prefer a quiet time, or perhaps the company of just a few people. Whatever the size of your household, preparing and sharing food for a special occasion is comforting, and it always feels good to treat a meal as something special. For Christmas this year, Claire Borg made a heap of baked goods that are warmed with seasonal spices. Baking them in batches is a pleasant way to spend a wet weekend. Pile them high on your serving table, or pop them into boxes as gifts. For festive feasting, Michael Diacono turned to a different food tradition and a time when fish was served on special occasions. His artfully plated and fresh-flavoured fish dishes are cause for celebration in themselves. If you yearn for something sweet but need to watch what you eat, Stephanie Tanti Desjardins’ bakes are carefully measured but fun and tasty, and if you like a traditional roast but without large numbers around the table, we’ve got some ideas for you too. Andrew Azzopardi demystifies the different varieties of Port and how to choose a bottle as a gift, or to enjoy yourself. For our design section, we visited a family home in Valletta, and took a guided visual tour of a rural building now turned into a contemporary home. We wrap up our December issue with the story of the ubiquitous poinsettia and how it came to be associated with Christmas. This is the final issue of Taste&Flair for 2022. We’ll be back in the New Year. Look out for our next issue in early February.
If you missed any issue of Taste&Flair and want a copy, we may be able to help so please do get in touch with us by email, Messenger, or on Instagram.
The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta
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Villeroy & Boch Metro Chic Collection. A style statement of timeless elegance from Villeroy & Boch. Urban modernity and an expressive geometric décor in black and real 20-carat gold make the MetroChic Signature collection an exclusive highlight. The finest Premium Bone Porcelain lends the crockery pure elegance that is even more striking in the white version. All pieces can be easily combined with each other. Matching stylish cutlery, either stainless steel or gold-plated, and glasses, are available at Joinwell.
Beautiful, practical, desirable - our inspiring guide to finding a gift they'll love
ESTEBAN PARIS. This lovely remote-controlled perfume mist diffuser allows you to vary the light intensities and remotely control the diffusion time of your scented atmosphere. Just fill with water, add a few drops of essential oil, and enjoy. This comes in three different finishes and prices start at €75. Shop online: WWW.GREYANDADLER.COM or visit Grey & Adler at their new boutique in Labour Avenue, Naxxar.
Les Ottomans / Home Design. The brand Les-Ottomans is, first and foremost, a fashion proposal that nonetheless allows every individual the possibility of enhancing their space through the exoticism and the charm of Turkish culture. Les Ottomans is the unusual that affirms the uniqueness of your home. Available at camilleriparismode.
Sid Dickens. A brand that has become synonymous with camilleriparismode, Sid Dickens is an artist who has been creating highly-collectible memory blocks since the 1990s, adding several new blocks to his ever-growing collection throughout the seasons. These blocks feature a wide array of themes and subjects. A selection is also available in limited edition. Available at camilleriparismode.
New season, new Pomellato Collection. Try on the latest novelties from Pomellato at Edwards Lowell. Synonymous with creativity and daring character, Pomellato changed the jewellery rules across the international market. From its traditional formality, the brand made jewellery younger, more sensual, and more diverse in appeal. Founded in 1967 by the Rabolini family, the company is established in Milan and is still owned by the same family that manufactures two main linesPomellato and DoDo.
A crossover between a stylish cocktail chair and a comfortable armchair with a floatingeffect backrest. Upholstered in velvet with a characteristic grain that changes colour depending on the light. The legs are made of black rubberwood with luxurious soft golden ends, and the chair comes in various colours. Available from Joinwell.
Skultuna. Kin is a tea light candle holder with five different models designed by the internationally successful design studio Claesson Koivisto Rune. This is the original series made of polished brass on both the inside and the outside. Shop online: WWW.GREYANDADLER. COM or visit Grey & Adler at their new boutique in Labour Avenue, Naxxar.
Our best-selling Lion Pot is back in stock. This guardian lion pot is a majestic piece of art for indoor use, keeping your home safe and sound. With a matte white finish (and also available in black for more drama), made of terracotta and the detail of an ear piercing made of brass, this lion exudes confidence and drama. It comes in two sizes, and can be purchased online on www.greyandadler.com or visit Grey & Adler at their new boutique in Labour Avenue, Naxxar.
Brighten up your space this Christmas with lamps from One Two One Interiors. From left to right: Seashell Lamp with Linen Shade Dimensions: H:550 Dia:410 mm - Price €250; Midnight Blue Glass Table Lamp with Shade, Dimensions: H:850 Dia:450 mm - Price €350; Turned Spindle Lamp with Shade Dimensions: H:890 Dia:450 mm - Price €270. One Two One Interiors, 21st September Avenue, Naxxar, T 2142 2948/9.
Tel: +356 2141 7894, email: info@santaluciacafe.com, BODRATO bodratocioccolato.it
DICAL HOUSE FESTIVE MUST-HAVES. If you are looking for the one place on the island where you can find all your festive must-haves, head straight to DICAL HOUSE and feast your eyes on an extensive selection of gifts and hampers. All hampers can ALSO be customised according to your taste and budget to ensure yours is unique across the island. Dical House brings you the finest food products from around the world. With hundreds of gourmet items to choose from, your difficulty will be what to leave out rather than what to choose. Whatever the case, don’t forget a gift to self. Dical House is in Triq San Anton Abbati. Easy to find also on google maps. T 21424600/1. E foods@dicalgroup.com. www.dicalhouse.com
Victorinox KnivesPassion for Cooking. We know what it’s like to deal with a dull blade - everything becomes more difficult and time-consuming. And did you know that it is actually safer to operate in the kitchen with a set of good, sharp knives? If one of your loved ones has a passion for cooking, then a set of good knives from Victorinox are such a thoughtful gift to make their time in the kitchen a pleasure: Swiss-made knives that are safe, non-slip, and ergonomically designed. Exclusively available from The Catering Centre, St Paul’s Bay | Paola | Valletta | Victoria, Gozo; T +356 2157 7305.
Christmas is around the corner and Dical House is as always well stocked to meet all your gifting requirements. Our selection of fine foods is second to none with innovative items being presented each year. Our large cellar houses more than 400 labels of wine and an extensive selection of spirits, many of which are hard to find. With regards to packaging, choose from wicker baskets or signature Dical House gift boxes. Dical House is open all day every day during the festive season and is Triq San Anton Abbati. Tel: 21424600/1. Full customisation and delivery of hampers is also possible. Email: foods@dicalgroup.com. www.dicalhouse.com.
Trade
Share the gift of home-cooked meals made with love. Icona® is made from 18/10 stainless steel and features a vent on the glass lid to eliminate internal condensation, making it easier to see your food while cooking. The set includes a deep saucepan Ø 16 cm, a deep saucepan with 2 handles and lid Ø 24 cm, pot with lid Ø 20 cm, low casserole 2 handles with lid Ø 26 cm. Visit Oxford House in-store or online to shop the range.
These wines are currently exported to Berlin, Zurich, and London, apart from selling through a curated list of restaurants and retail outlets in Malta and Gozo. On the back of the Falstaff ratings, Ta’ Betta has just secured La Cave des Sommeliers as distributors in Belgium and Luxembourg, thus extending its footprint in Europe.
The wine which achieved the highest rating is the Philippe Villiers 2018, a blend of Syrah with Cabernet Franc, achieving an outstanding 95-point rating. “Dark ruby red in colour. On the nose initial aromas of iron, dried tomato and white pepper give way to beautifully compact notes of ripe berry fruit, blackberry, graphite and a touch of dark chocolate. The textured palate is well balanced and flavourful with tightly woven, velvety tannins and plenty of finesse, finishing with elegance, persistence, and nice length,” stated Othmar Kiem and Simon Staffler, the connoisseur reviewers engaged by Falstaff.
The estate’s Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon blend, Antonio Manoel 2018, achieved a 94-point rating. The formal tasting notes of the expert reviewers read: “Deep, dark ruby red in
colour. Initially slightly resinous on the nose, before opening up to reveal notes of Mediterranean herbs, lots of ripe dark berries, fleshy undertones, dried tomatoes and summer truffles. The palate is tightly meshed, a well-balanced interplay of polished tannins, juiciness, and magnificent dark berry fruit. A wine of great finesse and length.”
In the meantime, the Philippe Villiers 2017, the Antonio Manoel 2017 and the oak-fermented Chardonnay Jean Parisot 2019 each received a 93-point rating.
“It is an absolute honour that our wines were rated so highly by Falstaff, and we couldn’t be more delighted with the result,” said Ta’ Betta Wine Estates owner Juanito Camilleri. “This result will undoubtedly boost further our exportation to Europe and continues to create awareness of our wines in exclusive fine wine circuits internationally.”
Ta’ Betta Wine Estates is situated on 4-hectres of terraced land in Girgenti, Malta.
La Cave des Sommeliers have a growing footprint of wine shops in Belgium and Luxembourg, and a strong online retail presence in the Benelux region.
Falstaff is the biggest wine, food, and travel media platform in German-speaking Europe, with leading publications and websites in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. It was founded in 1980, and since then has been publishing authoritative annual wine guides reflecting and representing these countries’ wine industries to an audience and community of millions of people. n
“The palate is tightly meshed, a well-balanced interplay of polished tannins, juiciness, and magnificent dark berry fruit. A wine of great finesse and length.”
The five Ta’ Betta vintages which are currently available on the market have received outstanding ratings by Falstaff, achieving 93+ points rating.
If salted licorice chocolate is not
your taste, substitute this with plain chocolate.
YOU WILL NEED:
2 eggs
200g cold salted butter (grated)
350g soft dark brown sugar
5g baking powder
5g bicarbonate of soda
290g plain flour
80g dark cocoa powder
220g salted licorice chocolate, chopped
1. Preheat the oven to 170°C and line a couple of baking trays with non-stick paper.
2. Beat the butter with the sugar until light and smooth. Add the eggs and beat together till mixed well.
3. In a bowl sift together the flour, cocoa and raising agents. Add this to the butter mixture a tablespoon at a time, stirring well between each addition. Next, fold in the chopped chocolate.
4. Weigh out even amounts of the biscuit batter (mine were 12g each) and roll each into a ball. Place them on the lined baking trays, leaving enough space between each one.
5. Put the trays in the oven and let them bake for 6 and a half minutes. Remove the trays from the oven and let them cool for 4 minutes. Then, transfer the biscuits to a cooling rack and let them cool down completely. Store them in an airtight tin until needed.
to
YOU WILL NEED:
500g milk chocolate
100g dark chocolate
75g salted butter
25g dark cocoa powder 50g puffed quinoa
100g Christmas biscuits, crushed (a biscuit with Christmas spices will do well) 200g whole almonds
100g pitted prunes, chopped
FOR THE TOPPING:
150g milk chocolate goji berries pumpkin seeds puffed quinoa puffed chocolate cereal or similar
1. To make the bars, melt the chocolates in a heatproof bowl set on a pan of simmering water (bainmarie). Add the chopped butter, and let it melt. Next, mix in the cocoa, then the remaining ingredients.
2. Spread a baking tin with a little bit of vegetable oil, then line it with cling film. Pour the chocolate mix into it, and pat it down evenly. Chill this in the fridge for an hour.
3. To make the extra crunchy topping, melt the chocolate and pour it over the top of the chocolate mix, then sprinkle this with the remaining ingredients. Let the topping set in the fridge for 30 minutes before cutting.
4. Cut this into small squares and serve as mini festive bars, or include them in a Christmas cookie box.
A rich mix of chocolate, fruit, nuts, and spice, these festive bars are packed with seasonal warmth. Makes one tray
YOU WILL NEED:
200g salted butter
130g light brown sugar 2 tablespoons golden syrup 350g porridge oats
½ teaspoon cinnamon 150g dried cherries or cranberries 180g mincemeat
1. Preheat the oven to 170°C and line a 20cm x 20cm baking tray with non-stick paper.
2. In a pan set on medium heat, melt together the butter, cinnamon, sugar and golden syrup. Keep stirring the mixture to prevent burning.
3. Add the oats and dried cranberries and stir them in until they are all coated with the buttery mixture.
4. Place half the mixture in the lined baking tray and pat it down. Add the mincemeat and spread it out evenly. Add the remaining oat mixture and pat down this top layer until it is even.
5. Bake in a preheated oven for around 40 minutes. Let the flapjacks cool in their tin for the first 30 to 40 minutes, then transfer the block to a wire rack and let it cool down completely before cutting it into squares.
These are lovely served with a hot toddy.
These crunchy and moreish biscuits are shot through with the flavour of fresh vanilla. They’re a wonderful accompaniment to black coffee.
YOU WILL NEED:
440g plain flour
60g rice flour
250g salted butter
200g finely crushed or roughly ground unsalted pistachio 2 eggs
240g sugar 1 vanilla pod
14g baking powder
1. Preheat the oven to 180°C.
2. Melt the butter and set it aside to cool.
3. Use an electric whisk to beat the eggs and sugar until they are pale white. Split and scrape out the vanilla pod, add the pulp to the mixing bowl, and beat it in. Continue beating the mixture while slowly drizzling in the butter until it is all incorporated.
4. Sift the flour, baking powder, and rice flour into the bowl. Sprinkle in the pistachios and fold them in until they are all incorporated.
5. Turn the mixture out onto a clean surface, roll it into a log, then wrap it in cling film. Let it chill in the fridge for at least an hour.
6. Slice up the log into rounds of even thickness and place them on a lined baking tray, allowing enough space for them to expand while baking.
7. Bake in a preheated oven for 1215 minutes. Remove the tray from the oven and let the biscuits cool down slightly before transferring them to a cooling rack.
You will need to bake this in two stages – once to bake the cake, once to bake the slices into biscotti. I prefer to slice the cake a day or two after baking. You will need to store it in an airtight container until then.
YOU WILL NEED:
450g plain flour
4 teaspoons baking powder 225g salted butter
225g sugar 250g raisins 5 eggs
1. Preheat the oven to 170°C.
2. Using a paddle attachment on an electric mixer to beat together the cold butter, flour, baking powder and sugar, until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs.
3. Add the raisins and mix them in. Finally, add the eggs and mix them in, being careful not to over work the mixture.
4. Line a square baking tin, or two loaf tins, with baking paper and pour in the batter. Pat it down and bake 55 to 60 minutes. Let the cake cool in the tin for ten minutes, then transfer it to a cooling rack.
5. Store the cooled cake in an airtight tin. A couple of days later, preheat the oven to 100°C and use a sharp serrated knife to slice the cake evenly and thinly.
6. Place the slices on lined baking trays and bake them until crisp, then tansfer them to a cooling rack.
YOU WILL NEED:
100g toasted and skinned hazelnuts (or pistachios, if you prefer)
100g flour, type 00 100g unsalted butter 85g castor sugar
1-2 tablespoons of cold water, on standby
1. If you are toasting the hazelnuts, make sure you skin and cool them before you blitz them in a food processor. The ground nuts should be the consistency of coarse sand.
2. In a large bowl, add the sifted flour, nuts, and sugar. Mix well and add the chopped butter. Using a paddle or your hands, mix the ingredients well until the butter is evenly distributed and the dough is smooth.
3. Divide the dough into 4 even pieces and roll each one into a log. Wrap each one in cling film and chill them overnight.
4. Preheat the oven to 160°C. Slice up the logs into rounds of even thickness and place them on a lined baking sheet and bake them for 15 minutes. They should be lightly golden when done.
5. Let the biscotti cool on a rack, then decorate them with chocolate spread or ganache and a sprinkle of crushed nuts.
Port wine has been gaining popularity over the years. Due to its fruity and nutty flavours with a hint of sweetness, it has been trending in some of the most popular cocktail bars and restaurants in the world. Millennials looking for that something different are drinking chilled Port as an aperitif or even mixing it with sparkling wine.
I admit that Port and sparkling wine may not be my go-to aperitivo, but I definitely won’t get all snobby and tell you that Port is only meant to be drunk after dinner, by the fireplace. In fact, I would choose a particular Port style if I were to add sparkling wine to it at a Christmas party, and another style if I were to sip it slowly by the fireplace on Christmas eve. Both ways of enjoying Port could be equally fabulous. Unfortunately, the different styles of Port could also make this sweet wine a rather complicated affair, when it shouldn’t be.
In simple terms, Port wine is a sweet, red fortified wine from Portugal. There are similar fortified wines from other regions around the world, but few would even come close to Port. My strong opinion may be due to the history of Port or the magical scenery of the Douro mountains, but I also believe the quality and complexity of Port wine is delightful.
Back in the 17 th century, British merchants scoured Portugal for wine and other products; however, they were disappointed by the fact that their wine simply didn’t have the ability to travel and was off before it reached England. Their solution was to add distilled spirit or Brandy to the wine to stabilise it and increase its ageing potential – and so Port came into being.
Fast forward to today, the production of Port has changed slightly in that a neutral distilled spirit is added early in the fermentation process to stun the yeast and stop fermentation, leaving a sweet, rich fortified wine with an alcohol percentage between 19% and 22%. Port is then aged in different ways according to the style the producer wants to achieve. The darker, berry and chocolate flavour styles is known as the Ruby style, whereas the older Tawny Ports tend to have a more caramel, hazelnut and butterscotch profile.
The basic Ruby style Port you find in the supermarket is an affordable, young and fruit forward style of blended Port. This wine is incredibly flexible and works as an aperitif, mixed with sparkling wine, as a base for cocktails and even for cooking. This is probably the Port you find in most drinking cabinets.
A premium style of Ruby Port, though unlike a vintage Port, it is not meant to age further in the bottle and thus to be drunk shortly after release. A great option is to drink it with those left-over chocolate truffles from Christmas day.
Vintage Port is often referred to as the king of Ports. This Ruby Style Port is produced from the best grapes from a single vintage (declared by the Port Wine Institute) and aged for a minimum of 2 or 3 years in second-hand barrels. It is then bottled and aged for an additional period before being released on the market. Some vintage Ports are labelled as “Single Quinta”, meaning that the grapes are from a single vintage from a single vineyard.
Vintage Ports are meant to be aged for several years, even up to 30 or 50 years, before reaching their potential.
Vintage Ports are meant to be aged for several years, even up to 30 or 50 years, before reaching their po tential. These wines are extremely complex and will showcase incredible flavours of hazelnut, butterscotch, graham crackers, chocolate, marzipan, and spice. Vintage Port often calls for a celebration and, when on the younger side, it pairs wonderfully with chocolate or pudding. For mature versions, I cannot think of a better pairing then a strong blue cheese such as Stilton or Roquefort. If you’re not into blue cheese, pair it with walnuts or even chocolate truffles.
A gift of Port is delightful, but which one do you choose?
Andrew Azzopardi demystifies the options.
The standard fortified white Port has beautiful aromas of citrus and apricot with minimal sweetness.
Between you and me, this wine is often found at a steal because the name is just too confusing to the consumer, when in fact it shouldn’t be. An LBV is a Vintage Port from a single harvest (single vintage) that, unlike a Vintage Port, is aged in the large 225 Litre barrels for 4 to 6 years, thus being ready to drink upon release and also having the potential to age for several years. It may not have the status of the Vintage Port, but due to its often-cheaper price, it can be a desirable alternative. Whether the final product is fruity and juicy or more on the nutty side depends on the style of the producer, so it might be a good idea to check up on the producer-style beforehand.
The basic level Tawny Port is aged at least two years in the barrel, where they get deliberate oxidation to obtain some flavour of nuttiness, dried fruit, and caramel. These wines are enjoyable immediately upon release and are often chilled or used as good basis for cocktail mixers. Sometime the nuttiness is the perfect style of Port used in several cooking recipes.
A Colheita Port is a special Tawny Port from a single vintage (harvest year) declared by the Institute of Porto and Douro. Unlike a Vintage Port, it is deliberately aged in large 225 litre wooden barrels for at least 7 or 10 years before release. Unlike the Vintage Port, the final product is immediately ready to drink after release and will not have any sediment, making it easy to simply pop and drink without having to decant it beforehand. The Colheita Port will unsurprisingly have a lighter colour than Vintage Port due to the deliberate oxidation, and will showcase beautiful nutty flavours,
caramel, burnt sugar, toffee, and an array of dried fruits such as fig and raisins and prunes.
Aged Port (10-year, 20-year)
Some Ports do not put down the vintage year, but rather an average of the vintages blended in the bottle. Therefore a 10-year-old Port would have a blend of vintages with an average barrel aging of 20 years – similarly for Ports aged 20, 30 or 40 years. 10-year-old Ports are usually still rather fruity with raspberry and cinnamon flavours. 20-year-old Ports start to show more caramel and prune flavours, but expect 30- and 40-year old Ports to exude those nuttier, butterscotch and toffee flavours that pair so wonderfully with pudding or Stilton.
Still relatively unknown in Malta, white Port is made in the same ways as the red variation, but entirely from white grapes. The standard fortified white Port has beautiful aromas of citrus and apricot with minimal sweetness, whereas the “Reserve” version has been aged in wood for 7 years to acquire those nutty flavours and a tad more sweetness. The combination of honey, vanilla, and nutty flavours is absolutely delicious with those cured meats and olives we often serve before Christmas lunch. Make sure to pop the white Port in the fridge for a couple of hours before serving it, to reach a cool 8-10 degrees Celsius.
If you’re feeling rather adventurous or you want to give good old aunty Eileen a bit of treat, why not try adding some tonic and a couple of ice cubes to your Port before Christmas lunch? That will give you a conversation starter that might just become a family tradition. n
Andrew Azzopardi is a wine specialist certified by the Wines and Spirit Education Trust.
For me, and I imagine most people my age and older, salmon was an ingredient reserved for special occasions and high feast days – the go-to fish to celebrate. It’s readily available today, but I personally still prefer to reserve salmon for the rare and special occasion, though I suppose I’m pandering to my strong sense of nostalgia.
This is an elegant, yet very easy way to start that special meal. Let the few ingredients do the talking.
Serves 6 as a starter Preparation: 60 minutes freezing, plus 20 mins
Recommended wine: “The beautiful combination of saltiness and richness of the scallop and salmon would be perfectly paired with a Bordeaux Blanc (white). The zingy, citrus acidity of the Sauvignon Blanc and roundness of the Semillon in the blend are the perfect accompaniment to the dish.”
YOU WILL NEED
500g fresh salmon
6 fresh king scallops sea salt and pepper
250g wakame seaweed a few pink peppercorns
3 fresh passion fruit lime wedges extra-virgin olive oil
1. Place the salmon and scallops in the freezer for 1 hour. This brings the temperature down and makes the raw fish safer to consume. (It must be said that the fish still remains raw). Put 6 plates into the fridge to chill them.
2. Remove the fish from the freezer and cut it into small cubes. Place these into a bowl and season with sea salt and pepper.
3. Have the 6 chilled plates ready. Use a mould to shape the fish and transfer it to the plates. Slice the scallops and arrange them on the salmon.
4. Garnish with a little wakame and sprinkle with a few pink peppercorns. Cut the passion fruit in half and squeeze it out into a bowl. Spoon the fruit around the plate, then drizzle with a very little extra-virgin olive oil.
5. Serve with lime wedges and the extra wakame in a small bowl.
This make-ahead recipe is ideal for the festive season. Extremely tasty and very presentable, it is a sure crowd pleaser. Either serve it whole for your guests to slice away at, or slice it thinly before serving and layer it neatly on a presentation platter.
Serves 16
Preparation: 1 day for curing
Recommended wine: “Avoiding any competing flavours is a must. An unoaked, refreshing Chardonnay such as Chablis would pair wonderfully with cured salmon.”
YOU WILL NEED 300g sea salt 200g sugar 1 tablespoon coriander seeds 1 tablespoon mustard seeds 1 fresh chili, sliced 1 small bunch fresh dill 1kg fresh salmon, whole and with the skin on but descaled (the tail end is better) a few sprigs of fresh thyme
TO SERVE a few mustard seeds sliced chili dried cranberries dill pickles
1. Mix the salt and sugar together in a bowl. Add the seeds and chili. Cut the dill roughly and mix it in.
2. Sprinkle 1/3 of the mixture on the bottom of a large dish. Place the fish, skin down, on this and add a little thyme. Spread the rest of the mix all over the fish, pressing it down.
3. Cover the dish with cling film, put it in the fridge, and leave it there for 24 hours.
4. Rinse the cure off the fish then pat the fish dry with kitchen towel. You can either leave this whole or slice it thinly on the angle.
5. Garnish with a few mustard seeds, sliced chili, and dried cranberries. Decorate with dill and serve with a selection of pickles.
This is a very retro idea updated to appeal to a contemporary audience. For the reluctant chef, it’s a great way to impress at Christmas with minimum effort.
Serves 6
Preparation: 30 mins, plus at least 6 hours to set
Recommended wine: “The tropical flavours of a juicy New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc would be a magical pairing.”
YOU WILL NEED approximately 400g sliced smoked salmon 400g cream cheese 1 tablespoon extravirgin olive oil 60g walnuts, chopped 1 tablespoon chopped chives salt and pepper 3 avocados, peeled, stone removed and chopped spray oil
TO GARNISH
1 jar caviar (I used herring) a few salad leaves lemon wedges
1. Spray 6 ramekins or dariole moulds with oil, then line them with cling film. Use the salmon to cover the whole of the inside bottom and sides of the moulds, leaving a good overhang.
2. Place the cream cheese into a mixing bowl. Soften it by beating it lightly with the extra-virgin olive oil. Add the nuts, chives, and seasoning. Mix it in well, then finally fold in the avocado.
3. Fill the lined moulds with the mixture and press it down. Next, bring the salmon overhang to the top and do the same with the extra cling film. Press the top down slightly to seal it.
4. Place the moulds in the fridge to set. They’ll need at least 6 hours, but you may also leave overnight.
5. To serve, pull out the filled salmon out of the moulds using the cling film. Remove the film and transfer “terrines” to serving plates.
6. Garnish with caviar, some salad leaves, and lemon wedges.
My Swedish sister-in-law, Szuzi, introduced me to this dish. This is my version. It makes for a stunning centrepiece of any buffet table. It is also fun, as your creative side can go wild when decorating the final product. No strict, hard and fast rules exist.
Serves 8
Preparation and cooking: 90 minutes, plus 120 minutes resting time
Recommended wine: “Such an impressive centerpiece with so many different flavours deserves an equally impressive wine. A great quality sparkling wine or Champagne would be ideal.”
FOR THE BREAD LAYER
450g plain flour 1.5 teaspoons salt 2 teaspoons instant yeast 1 tablespoon sugar 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 240ml water
FOR THE SALMON LAYER 100g cream cheese 50g Greek yoghurt 150g smoked salmon, chopped 1 tablespoon snipped chives 1 teaspoon chopped fresh dill 1 tablespoon lemon juice a little cracked pepper
FOR THE EGG LAYER 100g cream cheese 30g thick mayonnaise
3 hard-boiled eggs, chopped 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon English mustard salt and pepper
TO COAT
200g cream cheese 70ml crème fraîche
TO DECORATE
(this is what I used, but feel free to go wild)
1 cucumber, sliced a few cherry tomatoes
1 radish a little sliced smoked salmon salmon roe
1 hard-boiled egg a few sprigs fresh dill and fresh pea shoots
1. Preheat the oven to 200°C.
2. Sift the flour and salt into the bowl of a food mixer. Add the yeast and sugar. Use the dough hook to mix the ingredients, then pour in the extra-virgin olive oil and water.
3. Work the mix to form an elastic dough, then knead it for a good 8 minutes. Cover it with a cloth and leave it in a warm place to rise and double in size.
4. Spray a 20cm round cake tin with oil. Place the dough into this and use your fingers to spread it out to the edge. Leave to rise again for 20 minutes, then bake it in the preheated oven for 20-25 minutes. Then, remove the tin from the oven and set it aside to cool.
5. To prepare the mixture for the salmon layer, mix all the ingredients together. Do the same for the egg layer mixture. Prepare the ingredients for the coating by beating them together.
6. Now, assemble the Smõrgåstårta. Start by slicing the bread into 3 layers as you would a cake.
7. Place the bottom layer onto a serving plate. Spread the salmon filling all over the surface, and top this with the second layer of bread. Coat the second layer with the egg filling, and top that with the last layer of bread.
8. Cover the “cake” with the coating mixture. Transfer it to the fridge and leave it there to set for 2 hours. Just before serving, remove it from the fridge and simply decorate it to your heart’s content.
Sumac is a tangy, slightly tart, and citrusy spice used mainly in Middle Eastern cuisine. It is actually the ground dried fruits of the plant. Its distinctive reddish to purple colour is an added bonus.
Serves 6
Preparation and cooking: 60 minutes
Recommended wine: “A full-bodied white Burgundy or Californian Chardonnay would work well. If you’re feel a tad adventurous, a white Chateauneuf-du-Pape would equally pair wonderfully and probably impress your guests.”
YOU WILL NEED:
1.2kg fillet of salmon
FOR THE CRUST:
80g bread crumbs (I used panko)
2 tablespoons sumac zest of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon coriander seeds salt and pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 handful parsley, finely chopped 80g pistachio nuts, chopped
1. Preheat the oven to 190°C (if fan-operated) or 200°C.
2. Place the breadcrumbs with the sumac, lemon zest, coriander seeds, and seasoning into a food processor and blitz for a few seconds only. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and stir in the extra-virgin olive oil, chopped parsley, and pistachio nuts.
3. Line a large baking sheet with baking paper. Place the salmon onto this, skin side down. Brush the fish lightly with extra-virgin olive oil then coat it with the crust mixture.
4. Bake the fish for 20 mins for medium, or 25 minutes if you prefer it cooked more. Remove the tray from the oven and transfer the fish to a warm serving platter to present whole at table.
Here, I served the fish with hummus to which I added some preserved lemon and parsley.
It is traditional in many cultures to serve fish on New Year’s Eve to celebrate the end and beginning of a year. I think it is a great idea too. With all the food we consume over the holidays, something lighter on this special evening makes so much sense.
Serves 6
Preparation and cooking time: 60 minutes
Recommended wine: “I usually like to serve refreshing and linear wines during the holidays. A good quality, dry German Riesling would be enjoyed by everyone without disrupting the delicate flavours.”
YOU WILL NEED:
250g butter, at room temperature
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
400g cooked and drained spinach
1 tablespoon parsley, finely chopped
50g toasted almonds, chopped grated zest of ½ a lemon salt and pepper
2 blocks good quality frozen puff pastry
6 x 250g boneless salmon fillets
1 egg lightly beaten with 2 tablespoons milk
1. Prepare the filling first. Place the butter in a bowl and beat it with a wooden spoon till it is softened. Add the garlic, spinach, parsley, chopped almonds, and lemon zest. Mix well and season. Set the bowl aside.
2. Cut the pastry into 6 squares. Place the salmon fillets in the centre and season them lightly. Coat the fillets generously with the spinach butter then wrap them up well.
3. Transfer the wrapped fillets to a baking sheet lined with baking paper. Brush the pastry all over with egg wash.
4. Heat the oven to 190°C and bake the fillets for 20 minutes till golden brown.
4. Close the belly of the goose with toothpicks about 1cm apart. Tie the legs loosely with kitchen twine. Rub the goose vigorously with salt. Place the breast side down on a deep baking tray or in a baking dish. Pour in 200ml of water. Cook in the hot oven on the lowest rack for 30 mins.
5. After 30 mins, turn the goose and finish cooking for another 2.5 hours. After one hour, baste the first time, then every 30 minutes with the rendered fat.
6. For the sauce, peel and coarsely dice shallots, carrots and celery. Clean the leeks and cut them into
The holidays are fast approaching, the weather is getting colder and our taste buds are craving meals that are warmer and richer. Tickle your taste buds with this Christmas goose with orange and date stuffing recipe, for an unforgettable moment with family and friends:
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rings. Melt some goose fat in a large, wide pot. Add the vegetables and sauté them.
7. Coarsely chop the goose giblets. Add everything to the vegetables and sauté over high to medium heat for about 10 minutes until brown. Dust with powdered sugar, add the tomato paste and roast briefly.
8. Deglaze the vegetables with Port wine and reduce the liquid slightly. Add the chicken stock and bring it to a boil. Add the spices and simmer the mixture gently for about 1 hour.
9. Pour the liquid through a fine sieve into a pot and bring it to the boil again. Mix starch in a little cold
water, stir it into the boiling stock, and bring it to a good boil again. Season with salt and pepper.
10. Carve up the goose and serve it with sauce, pumpkin dumplings and red cabbage with pears.
December’s a difficult time for anyone who needs to be on a caloriecontrolled diet. These bakes are perfect when you’re entertaining someone who’d like a little sweetness without any worries, and they’re a fun way to keep children entertained during a wet weekend. All recipes are by Stephanie Tanti Desjardins.
These recipes are from “Eat & Fuel – The Journey Book”, authored and published by Stephanie Tanti Desjardins. The book includes over 100 easy-tomake recipes, self-care challenges that focus on improving mental health, and fitness workouts which can be done anywhere at any level. It will be available from 9th December 2022, retailing at €30.
With a bread-like texture, but tangy with lemon zest and sweetened with berries and syrup, this is the perfect pick-me-up.
Preparation: 20 minutes Baking: 50-55 minutes Yields: 10 slices Serving: 1 slice Energy: 200 kcals per slice
YOU WILL NEED:
cup organic extra-virgin coconut oil, melted and cooled
cup maple syrup
150g plant-based yoghurt
lemon zest
tablespoons lemon juice
teaspoon vanilla extract
¾ cup wholemeal flour, plus 1 extra teaspoon 1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
teaspoon coarse sea salt 1 cup fresh berries; cleaned, stemmed, and finely chopped
Spinach in a cake sounds unusual, but the result is pleasing.
1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease a 9×5″ round baking tin with cooking spray or line it with nonstick baking paper.
2. In a large bowl, combine the coconut oil, maple syrup, eggs, yoghurt, lemon zest and juice, and vanilla. Stir them together using a balloon whisk.
3. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, bicarbonate of soda, and salt. Mix them well.
4. Pour the yoghurt mixture into the bowl with flour mixture and stir the ingredients together until they are just combined.
5. In a small bowl, toss the berries with the remaining flour and fold them into the batter.
6. Pour the batter into the prepared baking tin and let it bake for 50 to 55 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the centre comes out mostly clean.
7. Let the bread cool in the baking pan on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes. Remove it from the pan, and transfer it to a wire rack to cool down completely.
Preparation: 15 minutes
Baking: 40 minutes
Yields: 10 slices
Serving: 1 slice Energy: 210 kcals per slice
YOU WILL NEED:
1 cup almond milk
1 egg
2 cups fresh spinach leaves
1 tablespoon organic honey
2 cups oat flakes
1 apple, peeled, cored and chopped
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon bicarbonate soda
1 tablespoon pure peanut butter
3 tablespoons protein chocolate spread
1. Preheat the oven to 180°C and line a cake tin with non-stick baking paper.
2. Put all the ingredients into a food processor, except the protein chocolate spread, and blend the mixture until it is smooth.
3. Add half the cake mixture to the lined baking tin. Top this with chocolate protein and then add the remaining mix on top of the chocolate spread.
4. Let the cake bake for 40 minutes in the pre-heated oven. Check if it’s done by inserting a skewer or toothpick.
5. Allow the cake to cool in the tin for a few minutes, then turn it out onto a wire rack to let it cool down completely.
Call
chocolate salami
Preparation: 45 minutes Yield: 4 logs
Serving: 2 slices (each 1cm thick)
Energy: 200 kcals per serving
FOR THE CONDENSED MILK SUBSTITUTE: 3 cups soya milk
1 ¾ cup pitted dates, chopped ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 2 tablespoon extra-virgin coconut oil
FOR THE BISCUIT MIXTURE: 5 ½ cups oat flour 2 ½ cups crushed all-bran biscuits 1 ¼ cup hazelnuts ¾ cup almonds 1/3 cup raw cacao powder ¼ cup hazelnut butter 3 tablespoons brandy
FOR THE COATING: 200g dark chocolate
1. Start preparing the condensed milk substitute. In a saucepan, mix the milk, pitted dates, vanilla extract, and coconut oil. Let the mixture simmer on medium heat while stirring it constantly.
2. When the mixture starts boiling and looks creamy, remove it from the heat and let it cool for a few minutes. Blend the mixture to the consistency of a smooth paste. Let it cool for a few more minutes. It will thicken as it cools.
3. Next, make the biscuit mixture. In a food processor, blend the oats until they resemble flour, then set this aside. In the same bowl, process the biscuits, almonds, and hazelnuts until they are chopped, but not too
fine. Add cacao to the mixture and pulse all ingredients together for a few seconds making sure they are mixed well. Place the mixture in a large bowl and add the nut butter and brandy.
4. Slowly add the “condensed milk” mixture to the biscuit mixture and keep mixing it until it forms a dough. Shape the dough into 4 logs and freeze them for 15 minutes.
To celebrate Christmas, there’s nothing like a table groaning with goodies, but even a relatively simple meal can feel like a feast.
Corinne Vella
As the saying goes, l-ewwel ma tiekol l-għajn (“the eye eats first”). Even a simple meal can feel like a feast if it’s presented with care and served on a table dressed for the occasion.
These taste best when freshly roasted, but can be prepared ahead and warmed up just before serving time.
Serves 4
YOU WILL NEED 2 corn-fed chickens (or 4 poussins) 12 rashers of finely sliced streaky bacon 2 oranges sprigs of fresh rosemary fresh bay leaves 1 head of garlic 1 knob of butter olive oil
TO GARNISH: fresh green leaves cranberries fresh rosemary sprigs fresh bay leaves 1 orange fresh cranberries
1. Preheat the oven to 240°C.
2. Cut one orange into quarters and another into thin slices. Loosen the breast skin of one chicken (or 2 poussins) and brush the inside with olive oil and brush the inside of the other chicken (or 2 poussins) with butter.
3. Slice the head of garlic crossways and then in half again. Put a quarter into the cavity of each bird, and add orange quarters and sprigs of rosemary. Tie the legs together with string.
4. Tuck orange slices and bay leaves beneath the loosened breast skin of one chicken (or poussins) and brush the surface with olive oil. Put this in a basting bag, seal it, and place it in a roasting tin.
5. Lay slices of bacon over the other chicken (or poussins), overlapping the layers slightly, and place on a rack in a separate roasting tin. This will allow excess fat to drip away.
6. Roast both chickens in a hot oven for 1.5 hours. After 1 hour and 15 minutes, slit the basting bag open and brush the bird all over with olive oil. This will help turn the skin a lovely golden brown.
7. Remove the birds from the oven and let them “rest” for 5 minutes before serving, or set aside until needed. Serve on a platter decorated with green leaves, fresh herbs, orange slices, and cranberries.
These can be prepared in 2 stages. Prepare the parboiled potatoes and stored them in the fridge overnight. On the serving day, bring them to room temperature before popping them into the oven.
1. Wash the potatoes and parboil them in salted water for 10 minutes. They should be firm but starting to soften. Drain them and then shake them gently in the pan so that the skin breaks slightly. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C.
2. Put the potatoes in a single layer in roasting tin brushed with olive oil. Slice the garlic crossways and add both halves to the roasting tin. Keeping the skin on will stop the garlic burning.
3. Drizzle the potatoes with more olive oil, season them with salt and pepper and roast them at 180°C for about an hour until the skin starts to crisp up.
4. Working quickly, remove the tin from the oven and use a pestle or masher to lightly squash down each potato. Top with sage leaves brushed with olive oil and return the tin to the oven for another 20 minutes.
1. Wash and trim the chicory and separate the leaves. Toss them in a bowl with a spoonful of olive oil.
2. Shred the red cabbage and toss this with a spoonful of olive oil.
3. Peel the orange and grapefruit and slice them thinly, removing any seeds.
4. Arrange the chicory leaves on a platter. Add the citrus fruit slices, tucking them in among the leaves. Sprinkle over with shredded cabbage and baby rocket leaves.
5. Shake the dressing ingredients together until well combined and drizzle this over the salad, and garnish with micro-greens.
Add a couple more side dishes if you need to cater for unexpected guests. Prepare these ahead and put them in the oven half an hour before serving time.
YOU WILL NEED:
24 baby yellow, orange, and black carrots 1 tablespoon olive oil ¼ teaspoon ground cumin salt and pepper
TO GARNISH: crème fraiche chopped parsley
Toss the carrots with olive oil and cumin, season with salt and pepper and roast them for 30 minutes. Serve garnished with crème fraiche stirred with chopped parsley.
YOU WILL NEED:
24 yellow and red cherry tomatoes olive oil fresh thyme
Drizzle the tomatoes with olive oil and add a few sprigs of fresh thyme. Pop them in the oven for 30 minutes. Garnish with more fresh thyme.
The courtyard was roofed over to create a double-height open-plan living space at the heart of the home. The light colours and the curves of the seating, table, and carpet, create a soft and warm overall look. The sofas and magazine rack, part of the Wave collection designed by Nika Zupanc for Natuzzi, were supplied by Form.
Two run-down rural buildings and a courtyard have been transformed into a contemporary home for a young family
Afamily home is not what you’d associate with cold data analysis, but this one owes much to the detailed examination of facts and figures. “My specialisation is in selfsufficient buildings. Data analysis is where I always begin,” says Joe Galea, the architect at Draw, a practice that will design a building from foundations to the proverbial curtains. “An in-depth study tells you what to open up, what to close, what the essential parts of a building are that need to be retained.”
As he scrolls through the photographs of a recently finished project – the transformation of two farmhouses and a courtyard into a contemporary home – he talks through the process of research and data analysis to understand a site’s potential, and engineering design solutions for what seems impossible at first, skills honed in his training at the Institute of Advanced Architecture in Barcelona, and later at AP, at Fab Lab Barcelona and at the London branch of the LA company Nous: “It’s like the anatomy of a person. Buildings have anatomy too.” The process of examining that anatomy is fascinating, like opening up a complex machine to analyse how it works, then “medicating” with passive or active systems.
As with other projects, the process in this case covered every consideration from technical concerns – documenting heat patterns throughout the site, how sunlight could be captured and its radiation deflected, the existing and potential capacity for water catchment; to cultural necessity – what was vernacularly important and needed to be retained, what aspects needed to be negotiated with the Superintendence of Cultural Heritage; to the pragmatic –what expertise was available and how the data collected could be realised.
On top of that, there was another layer of design. This project was to be a family home, so there was the question of what the family needed and wanted – an open plan space, heating and cooling systems, an outdoor space for recreation and entertaining. Then began the slow transformation of a rural wreck into a bright and airy home flooded with light. It helped that Joe was involved in the project from the earliest stages, from helping the client find the right property to acquiring planning permits, to showcasing the 3d design to Draw’s client using a virtual reality headset.
The home owner is a steel fabricator, so they played with the idea of a design that uses his trade. Instead of covering the courtyard with glass, they decided to cover it with a solid ceiling which collects energy through solar panels installed on the rooftop, and then elevated that roof with glass. In many homes, the courtyard is glassed over, which is very inefficient in terms of heat gain. Here, the glass panes are vertical but the glazed front is not fully exposed to the sun and acts as a light shelf. The light bounces beautifully through the house without unnecessary heat gain, and allows stack ventilation, the vertical movement of air through the house.
A bespoke kitchen designed by Draw is positioned just off the living and dining area (above) and next to a garden door (left), serving both indoor and outdoor spaces. The warm maroon of the bespoke kitchen cabinetry is picked up in other parts of the house, a bold presence in an otherwise neutral palette.
Bridges connect the farmhouses at different levels and the light angles change throughout the day. There are three skylights, which let in natural light at different times – the pool door faces sunrise, the skylight at the back faces the setting sun. Light fittings and textures have been chosen and positioned to imitate the natural light patterns.
Above and below: the pool and bath were cast in concrete directly on site. The bath material incorporates perlato stone from Halmann Vella, creating visual texture that complements the smooth marble cladding.
Steel columns were created to support the ceiling, and planned to be covered in greenery, physically and visually connecting the house with the garden. The building is engineered for energy self-sufficiency. Besides supporting the solar panels, the roof is a water catchment area, capturing rainfall and routing it into the preexisting well. This abuts the area beneath the house that the owner wanted to transform into an indoor recreational area. At first, he wanted the well to become part of that space, but was persuaded to retain it for its original purpose. The water collected
there is now used for the flushing system and for garden irrigation.
Much of what makes the house is bespoke design. The outdoor pool, for instance, is in concrete which was cast in situ, as was the bath in the ensuite bathroom. The bath’s hard lines are softened by the visual texture of the material, a contrast to the smooth marble cladding on the walls. “The ceiling was pushed down so the bath could fit flush,” Joe says. The overall look here is quietly luxurious, visually warmed by the rose gold of the bath and shower fittings and physically by the installation of underfloor heating.
Principal items of furniture were designed and customised specifically for the home: the beds in both the master bedroom and secondary bedroom; the walkin wardrobe with its sleek, dark paneling; the kitchen cabinetry and its unusual ribbed profile. “They wanted a ribbed kitchen,” Joe says. “We couldn’t find one from any supplier at the time, so we created a bespoke design here at Draw.” The cabinetry is in a warm maroon, a bold presence in the home’s mostly neutral palette. The colour is picked up in the headboards in the master bedroom and echoed faintly in the tone of the hydraulic tiles in the junior bedroom.
As always, the project’s success depended on getting the right contractors on board, but the key was seamless end-to-end service, meticulous attention to detail, and the commitment to engineering a building that makes the best use of available resources. Joe and Sara –both from a third generation in the furniture business – have created synergy between the project brief and the client’s budget, and the building and products. “Self-sufficiency is the future, but it doesn’t always mean farmhouses,” Joe says. “We need to think about how any type of building can work independently and give back to the environment.” n
Light fittings were chosen and positioned to complement the natural light patterns. All light fittings throughout the house were supplied by Glow.
Draw designed the beds to complement the architecture. The shape of the headboard in the master bedroom, for example, echoes the arched doorway that leads to the walk-in wardrobe (below)
Photography: Ramon Portelli Main structural works: Perit Noel Debattista
The location of the property at the centre of Valletta, beneath the dome of the Carmelite church and in the vicinity of the spire of St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral, inspired an interior design approach which centered around reinterpreting classical proportions, and restoring certain moulding and motifs which existed on site.
The stone-coloured decking, and the travertine pool coping from Halmann Vella, echo the stone-coloured surroundings of Valletta’s rooftops and the prominent dome which overlooks the terrace. The colour tone and form of the outdoor furniture from Camilleri Paris Mode complement the overall look.
Every family home has a story. The current incarnation of this one began when a neglected 1800s house, stacked tall in a narrow street, was discovered by a young couple looking to move out of their starter home into somewhere larger for their growing family. It was in a bad state, was held by multiple owners, and hadn’t been lived in for years – unless you counted the pigeons nesting beneath the damaged roof. A chance find after a long search, it turned out to be what they had been looking for all along.
“We already lived in Valletta and I really wanted to stay here,” one of the owners says. “But finding a property was a real battle. We had looked at several and none were suitable.” On yet another viewing of yet another house, they climbed the stairs to the roof and spotted the house next door. Despite the state it was in, a visit did not put them off. It only convinced them it should be theirs.
Set on four levels, with high ceilings, and an accessible rooftop and basement, the house had plenty of potential. From the second level upwards – the first level belongs to another residence with its own entrance – each floor offered a wide landing with large rooms at either end of the house, lit and ventilated by a private yard at the back, a sizeable internal shaft, and traditional closed balconies at the front. The house was promising, but also needed lots of work. Undaunted, the owners engaged Valentino Architects to transform it.
The pleasing symmetry of the facade is emphasised by wooden balconies custom-made by Carmelo Delia Joinery, who also supplied all the new apertures.
The house includes a street-level garage, a rare convenience in Valletta. An outsized divider can be swept round to enlose the parking area, instantly transforming the internal space.
Address: St Mark Street, Valletta, Malta. Telephone: 2122 0949 Mobile: 9985 7016
The brief centered around the creation of a family home, with space for a guest flatlet, and space for leisure and entertainment. The vertical nature of the house encouraged zoning on different levels - one level dedicated to the clients’ two young daughters, one dedicated to the couple themselves, and one for the whole family that is connected to the roof terrace and pool. The entertainment space being on the roof encouraged flipping the conventional vertical nature of the house by putting bedrooms at the bottom and living spaces at the top. The main challenge, as it often is in renovation projects, was the passage of building services, in this case more so because on the first floor the house only includes the stairwell and is otherwise surrounded by third parties. The routing of services therefore had to be studied and organised very carefully.
The ground floor entry, stairwell, and landings at the different floors were painted in a dark colour, allowing one’s eyes to adjust to the light upon entry and making the spaces which come off the landings – which are rendered in a lighter colour – appear lighter and brighter in contrast. This specific approach was inspired by Chris Briffa Architects’ interventions at nearby Casa Ellul. It creates an elevated sense of drama as one rises through the house, and the colour scheme becomes more mature and elegant. The dark walls were also extended up to the roof terrace, where travertine and a stone-coloured decking was used on the floors, the walls and the coping of the pool to echo the stone-coloured surroundings of Valletta’s rooftops and the prominent dome which overlooks the terrace.
In the main bathroom, a black terrazzo floor contrasts with the polished plaster walls and the Bianco Carrara marble in the shower space. The terrazzo flooring and marble were supplied by Halmann Vella.
At the centre of these spaces, enveloped in the original stone staircase, a lift shoots up. The shaft is clad in vertical brass-coloured aluminum strips which make it visually porous, allowing people within the lift to be observed and to observe their surroundings as the glass lift travels up and down the house, echoing the old lifts that used to be found in some of Valletta’s buildings. “The lift could have been an eyesore but it turned out to be one of our favourite features of the house,” one of the owners says.
On the top level, the house opens up into an area that spans the width of the building, fronted by a traditional wooden gallarija. This is what “sold” the property to its current owners. It is now the living and dining space that pulls the home together and where the family gathers each day. The brightly lit kitchen couldn’t be more different from the original one that was tucked away at the back of the ground floor and built to be purely functional, rather than as a space to enjoy. Large plate glass windows overlook panoramic views of Valletta’s roofscape and beyond. On warm days, they can be folded back completely, opening up the surface at the back of the kitchen into an indoor-outdoor dining area.
The most prominent architectural intervention is on the roof, which includes a pool, sun deck, and cooking/dining terrace. The pool is rendered in a dark colour, making it look more like a pond, and is partially roofed over using precast and fair-faced concrete beams, allowing it to nestle beneath the imposing dome, and creating dramatic shadows. Planting and landscaping were also introduced and all building services were installed beneath a raised deck, allowing it to be closer towards the dome and leaving the roof space free of clutter.
The pool, installed by Charles Micallef Swimming Pools Ltd, is rendered in a dark grey, which looks dark green or blue depending on the time of day and how the light hits the water.
At the centre of the house, the lift shaft is clad in vertical brasscoloured aluminum strips which make it visually porous, echoing the old lifts that used to be found in some of Valletta’s buildings.
Throughout the house, whatever could be preserved has been retained. The fireplace in the master bedroom, for instance, had been built for burning coal in the days when environmental and health risks were virtually unknown. It is nonfunctional now, but its continuing presence creates a homely feeling, anchoring the contemporary interior firmly to its past.
In the master bedroom, the clean lines of the ‘floating’ cupboards, natural materials, and a soft colour palette create a sense of calm. On the landing, a walk-in wardrobe is concealed behind the wooden panelling. All woodwork is by Carmelo Delia Joinery.
Contemporary furniture supplied by Camilleri Paris Mode complements the bright and airy feel of the living and dining room at the top of the house. The light fittings here and throughout the house were supplied by Elektra.
e wanted to retain and restore as many materials as possible. We also wanted to retain and express certain architectural ‘scars’ in the building,” Valentino Architects say. “The insertion of the lift was quite a challenge. We were assisted there by Perit Karl Farrugia. We decided to leave certain required structural alterations which were required visible, painting them in the dark grey colour to blend them in with the surroundings, but allowing them to be seen upon closer inspection.
Sleek cabinetry by Carmelo Delia Joinery and smooth marble surfaces by Halmann Vella give the top floor kitchen an uncluttered look.
ost of the floor tiles were either left in place and repolished, or removed, relaid and repolished. Borders around central patterned tiles were removed for new building services to be installed, and laid in a new cement tile that matches the colour code at the respective level. The bathrooms are also generally colour-coded to match the colour zoning of the house: pink terrazzo for the daughters’ floor, and black terrazzo on the living floor.”
Retrofitting the house to suit contemporary family needs has taken a lot of effort and imagination, but the result is worthwhile. “I hope this will be our forever home,” one of the owners says. “The project was a pleasure to work on,” Valentino Architects say. “This is primarily because of the healthy and ongoing friendship and relationship with our client – this was the third project we completed together – as well as a talented team of contractors and consultants. The spirit of the existing house remains throughout the building. Although it needed a lot of work, the architectural foundation of the building was strong and all we needed to do is bring out its soul to give the building a new lease of life.” n
Euphorbia pulcherrima, a member of the Euphorbiaceae or spurge family, is native to the rocky canyons of southwestern Mexico and Guatemala. It was cultivated by the Aztecs and the Mayans well before the Spanish conquest of the region and the eventual import of the plant to the Old World. The Aztecs gave it the Nahuatl name Cuetlaxochitl (pronounced kwet-lasho-shel), or “brilliant flower”. To the Mayans, it was k’alul wits, or “ember flower”. Both peoples used the plant for medicinal and other practical reasons, as well as for its aesthetic appeal.
Among the Aztecs, the bark and bracts were used to made a dye for textiles and for personal decoration. The milky white sap was applied to the skin to increase nursing mothers’ milk production and blended into poultices to treat wounds and various skin conditions. Yet, in magical belief, sitting on or smelling Cuetlaxochitl would cause illness. Even looking at the plant while pregnant was believed to cause disorder. That did not discourage the Aztec caciques, however, who continued to value the plant highly and to regard it as a symbol of purity.
The blood red plant first became part of Christmas celebrations during the 17th century, after the Spanish conquest, when Franciscan priests began using the red and green leaves to decorate presebre, elaborate nativity scenes, and included the plant in the nativity procession during the Santa Pesebre fiesta. A more popular story would have it that the flower came into being when a poor girl living in a small rural town in Mexico was upset at not having a gift to present to the infant Jesus during the annual Christmas procession. An angel appeared to her and said that anything would be a suitable gift if given with love. The young girl pulled out some weeds which she placed before the manger in the town’s nativity scene, when a bright light appeared and the weeds turned into the Flor de Nochebuena (Christma Eve flower) so closely associated with Christmas today.
The plant was first brought from Mexico to Europe from an expedition in 1803-1804, when the German naturalist
and explorer Alexander von Humboldt and French botanist and explorer Aimé Bonpland collected examples. It was the German botanist, Carl Ludwig Willdenow (1765-1812), director of the Botanical garden of Berlin from 1801 until his death in 1812, who assigned its botanical name. Dazzled by the colour of the plant which grew through a crack in his greenhouse, Willdenow gave it the Latin name Euphorbia pulcherrima, which means “most beautiful”. Yet it wasn’t until 1834 that the plant was first formally described as a new species, by the German botanist Johann Friedrich Klotzsch.
The popular name, poinsettia, was coined around 1836 (the exact year is uncertain), after Joel Roberts Poinsett, the first official US ambassador to Mexico. Poinsett, a physician by training and diplomat by profession, and an avid amateur botanist, first came across the red plant when visiting an area near Taxco de Alarcón in the Mexican state of Guerrero. He sent samples back to his home in Greenville, South Carolina, where they were propagated in his greenhouse and then distributed to friends and to botanical gardens. Before long, the poinsettia reached a nurseryman, Robert Buist of Philadelphia, who introduced it into US cultivation.
The poinsettia plants that fill garden centres and gift shops in December look different from the ones found growing wild in their natural home in Central America. The original wild poinsettia is a leggy, woody plant that grows several metres tall. The bracts surrounding its tiny yellow flowers are bright red, but small. The poinsettia plants that proliferate every December are free-branching, have large attractive bracts, bloom earlier in the season and last longer. They are available in various colours including white, pale yellow, salmon-pink, and burgundy, and also as speckled hybrids. More than 100 varieties of poinsettias now exist, but the traditional red type remains the most popular and accounts for roughly three quarters of all plants sold around Christmastime. n
The next issue will be out in February 2023 with The Malta Independent on Sunday.
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