ISSUE 129 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY
Feed your imagination FOOD 路 WINE 路 COLOUR 路 INTERIORS 路 ARCHITECTURE
JUNE 2020
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T&F EDITORIAL
Welcome
JUNE 2020
Strawberry Sponge, by Mandy Mallia. Photo by Megan Mallia. See feature starting on page 54.
ISSUE 129 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY
Feed your imagination FOOD · WINE · COLOUR · INTERIORS · ARCHITECTURE
W
elcome to the June issue. In the months of uncertainty and near isolation, Taste&Flair has kept us in touch with the good things about staying put - cooking with wholesome fresh produce sourced locally, home improvements that had been put off for weeks, months (or years, in some cases) finally getting done, and a push to reset priorities generally. Food is both comforting and reassuring, whether you’re eating it, making it, or just reading about it. Michael Diacono’s seafood is a taste of early summer, Claire Borg’s colourful ways with pasta are a feast for the eye, Amy Mallia’s bread and butter will have you asking for more, Janine Sultana writes about growing food in the garden of her family’s home, Mandy Mallia’s gbejniet are fun to make, Megan Mallia redefines a classic teatime treat, and Andrew Azzopardi makes sense of the maze of choices of natural, organic, sustainable, and biodynamic wines. Our design pages explore an eclectic interior and a holiday home that appears to be carved out of its Mediterranean landscape. If you long for a garden but only have room for a container plant, try growing myrtle. It’s laden with symbolism, but its real appeal is its fragrant leaves that can be used in your kitchen and wonderfully scented flowers which attract butterflies and bees.
Corinne Note: We often hear from readers who collect Taste&Flair and want to complete their collection. If you’re missing any issues of the magazine, please do get in touch. You can reach us by email, Messenger, or Instagram.
Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta Editorial Board Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia Executive Editor Corinne Vella Editorial Assistants Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Assistant Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt Production Manager André Camilleri Production Assistant Conrad Bondin Prepress & Printing Print It
All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the written prior agreement of the publisher. Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*. The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888 *The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.
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ISSUE 129 JUNE 2020
T&F CONTENTS
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p13 p45
CONTENTS 13
Spring into summer Michael Diacono’s seasonal fish and seafood
26
The natural way Andrew Azzopardi on environmentally friendly wines
29
Plated sunshine Claire Borg’s pasta pops with colour
45
Kitchen garden Janine Sultana harvests beans and memories
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Cheese please Mandy Mallia’s home made gbejniet
52
Bread and butter Amy Mallia’s sourdough bread and flavoured butter
54
Strawberry sponge Megan Mallia’s take on a traditional favourite
58
Collecting with a purpose Joanna Demarco visits an eclectic interior
72
Mykonos hideaway Architecture that blends sensitively into the landscape
80
Myrtus Communis Scent of the Mediterranean
p58
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T&F FRESH
Quick and easy baked Salmon
This one pan simple recipe works well for a fast healthy dinner or quick lunch with friends. It’s best to use wild salmon which has firmer, less fatty flesh.
serves 2 YOU WILL NEED
1 onion 2 medium potatoes 2 ripe tomatoes 3 cloves of garlic 2 salmon steaks, about 300g each thyme rosemary salt and pepper extra-virgin olive oil
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1. Peel and julienne the onion. Peel and
cut the potatoes into slices about 1 cm thick. Slice the tomatoes, leaving the skin on. Crush the cloves of garlic, skin and all, using a pestle and mortar. 2. Grease an oven tray with extravirgin olive oil and arrange the chopped vegetables in the following layers: potatoes, tomatoes, garlic, and onion. Add salt and pepper to taste, add the herbs and drizzle some more extra-virgin olive oil on top. 3. Cover the tray with aluminum foil and bake in the oven for about 30 minutes at 180ºC. 4. Now add the salmon steaks, turn up the temperature to 200ºC and cook for about 10 more minutes.
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IN SEASON T&F
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SPRINGINTO
SU ER Michael Diacono celebrates the last of the spring crop, matching sweet, tasty, local vegetables with seafood and fish. Food: Michael Diacono, chef patron at Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro Photography: Brian Grech Wine recommendation: Andrew Azzopardi
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T&F IN SEASON
FISH BROTH A much lighter and more delicate version of fish soup. Its subtle flavours make for a perfect, elegant starter.
Serves 4 Cooking: 60minutes Wine: German Kabinett Riesling
YOU WILL NEED
8 prawns, peeled (keep the shells) 1 seabass of 500g, filleted (keep the head and bones) 1 stick celery, chopped 1 onion, chopped 2 bay leaves 150g carrots, peeled and diced 150g leek, chopped 150g fresh Maltese asparagus 100g zucchini, diced 50g podded fresh peas extra-virgin olive oil salt and pepper 150g fresh small calamari, cleaned
1. Place the prawn shells and the fish
bones and head into a pot. Add the chopped celery, onion and bay leaves. Cover with 1.5 litres of water. Add a little salt. Bring to the boil and cook for 20 minutes only. Let the broth cool, then run it through a sieve.
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2. Cut the asparagus bottoms into rounds and keep the tips whole. 3. Heat some olive oil in a large pot. Add the chopped vegetables and stir fry for a couple of minutes. 4. Add the fish stock and bring it to the boil. Check and adjust the seasoning. Add the diced seabass, prawns and calamari. Cook for 4 minutes and then serve immediately.
IN SEASON T&F
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T&F IN SEASON
PRAWN STRUDEL WITH A RAW ZUCCHINI SALAD This is fun to make and it’s great to be able to say “Yes, I made the pastry” when asked.
Serves 6 Preparation and cooking: 90 minutes Wine: Italian Greco di Tufo
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IN SEASON T&F
FOR THE PRAWN STRUDEL
300g plain flour 100g butter 2 eggs 2 onions 18 large prawns, shelled and chopped basil salt and pepper extra-virgin olive oil FOR THE SALAD
3 Maltese zucchini 1 tablespoon pink peppercorns 1 handful parsley, chopped 1 tablespoon chopped mint 75ml extra-virgin olive oil salt and pepper
1. Take the butter out of the fridge
and leave it out to soften. (It should be soft, but not melted.) 2. Sift the flour into a bowl. Add the eggs and soft butter. Add 2 tablespoons cold water and ½ a teaspoon of salt. Work the ingredients together till you get an elastic and soft dough (around 20 minutes). Roll the dough into a ball. Heat up an empty pot and use it to cover the dough. This will make it easier to roll out thinly.
3. Meanwhile, slice the onions thinly, put the slices into a colander and sprinkle them with salt. Let them stand for 30 minutes. Rinse them well, then squeeze them dry. 4. Place the dough onto a floured surface and roll it out using a rolling pin till it’s thin. Prepare a large clean cloth on another surface and dust this well with flour. Transfer the dough to the cloth and then, using your hands, pull and stretch the pastry as thinly as you can. 5. Cover the dough with the salted
onions and prawns, scatter the filling with torn basil leaves and seasoning. 6. Roll up the filled pastry using the
cloth to help keep it in shape. Transfer the filled pastry roll to an oiled baking tray, brush it with oil and bake it in a preheated oven at 190°C for 30 minutes. Remove the pastry roll from the oven and let it cool before slicing and serving. 7. Wash the zucchini and cut them into strips. Place the strips in a bowl and add the other ingredients. Mix well. Let the ingredients infuse for 20 minutess before serving with the strudel.
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T&F IN SEASON
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IN SEASON T&F
PRAWN AND PEAS A bit of a surf and turf here. The saltiness of the guanciale goes so well with the sweetness of the peas and the prawns.
Serves 4 as a starter Cooking: 30 minutes Wine: Chablis YOU WILL NEED
400g fresh podded peas 100g guanciale, diced pepper basil & parsley, washed and chopped 12 large red prawns extra-virgin olive oil 2 balls mozzarella di bufala
1. Blanch the peas in boiling
salted water for a couple of minutes, then drain and refresh them in ice-cold water. 2. Place a non-stick frying pan on the heat and add the guanciale. Cook gently for about 5 minutes, stirring often till the fat renders. 3. Drain the peas and add them to the pan. Season with pepper and check for salt. Stir fry for a further 2 minutes, then add some chopped basil and parsley. 4. Drizzle the prawns with some extra-virgin olive oil and season them lightly. Cook them on a hot grill for 4 minutes on each side. Serve them on a bed of peas with the mozzarella di bufala.
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T&F IN SEASON
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IN SEASON T&F
ASPARAGUS STUFFED CALAMARI WITH WALNUT AND SPINACH PESTO This is so, so easy to prepare and it could be served as part of an antipasto spread or as a light lunch.
Serves 4 Preparation and cooking: 60 minutes Wine: Sancerre
YOU WILL NEED
1. To make the pesto, place all
4 large fresh calamari, cleaned and washed About 30 stems of fresh, local asparagus
the ingredients into a food processor and blitz till smooth.
FOR THE PESTO
1 clove garlic 50g walnuts 1 handful of mint, chopped 1 handful parsley, chopped zest and juice of 1 lemon 100g spinach 100ml extra-virgin olive oil
2. Blanch the asparagus for 2 minutes then refresh the stems under cold running water. 3. Stuff the calamari with the asparagus and cut off the extra length of the stems. Place the calamari into a steamer and steam for 8 minutes. Let them cool, then slice and serve them with the pesto.
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T&F IN SEASON
PAN FRIED SCALLOPS ON A PEA PURÉE Scallops are one of my favourite seafoods as long as they are fresh. Frozen scallops retain too much water in them and do not cook up nicely. Scallops are very delicate and really do not need much preparation. Just cook and serve them at once.
Serves 2 Cooking: 30 minutes Wine: Young White Burgundy
FOR THE PURÉE
400g fresh podded peas 85g unsalted butter 100g plain yoghurt mint salt and pepper 6-8 fresh scallops salt and pepper 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon butter 1 tablespoon toasted flaked almonds
1. Melt the butter in a pot. Add the peas
and cook gently for 5 minutes. Transfer them to a food processor, add the yoghurt, mint and seasoning, and blitz until the mixture’s fine. If necessary, add some extra-virgin olive oil to thin it out. 2. Dry the scallops with kitchen paper and season them lightly. Heat some extra-virgin olive oil in a pan with the butter. Add the scallops and cook them for 1 minute on each side on high heat.
TO GARNISH
sliced chillies
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3. Serve the cooked scallops on the warm purée topped with some flaked almonds and a few slices of chilli.
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IN SEASON T&F
NEONATE AND BROAD BEAN SALAD WITH GRILLED OCTOPUS These are Mediterranean flavours at their best. Lemon and rosemary together are the perfect mix to scent octopus.
Serves 4 Preparation and cooking: 120 minutes Wine: Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc
YOU WILL NEED
1.2kg cleaned octopus, frozen for at least 1 week juice of 2 lemons 2 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary salt and pepper 75ml extra-virgin olive oil
1. Place the octopus into a large pot.
5. Place the neonate into a large bowl.
Cover it with water, place the pot on the heat and then let it simmer gently for 1 hour until tender. Turn off the heat and let the pot cool to room temperature before draining it and cutting the octopus into large pieces.
Add the broad beans. Mix the lemon juice in together with the parsley. Add the extra-virgin olive oil and season. Cover the bowl and let the neonate marinate for 20 minutes. 6. Heat up the grill or BBQ. Grill
FOR THE SALAD
400g neonate 200g shelled broad beans juice of 2 lemons a good handful of parsley, chopped 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil salt and pepper
2. Mix the lemon juice with the chopped
rosemary, season with salt and pepper and add the oil. Pour the mixture over the octopus, and set it aside. 3. Wash the neonate very gently. Be
careful when doing this as they are very delicate. Drain them well.
the octopus, turning it over occasionally till you get an even char. Baste it with the marinade. 7. Place the neonate onto a serving dish and decorate with the grilled octopus. Garnish with some quartered cherry tomatoes and lemon wedges.
TO GARNISH
cherry tomatoes lemon wedges
4. Blanch the broad beans for 2 minutes then refresh in cold water.
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T&F WINE
THE NATURAL CHOICE Choosing between organic, biodynamic, sustainable, and natural wines can feel like wandering in the dark. Andrew Azzopardi explains the differences.
I
n a time where we are extremely conscious of separating our waste, looking after our natural environment and our health more than ever, it has become normal to ask what chemicals are in the foods we consume, yet with wine those concerns seem to have fallen by the wayside. This gives an impression that either the wine world is not in touch with the market’s wishes, or producers are seemingly nonchalant about the environment. In fact, neither could be further from the truth. Every time I meet with winemakers, I’m impressed by the enthusiasm with which they talk about the vineyards, the grapes, the soil and the environment. Why shouldn’t they? Winemaking is not dissimilar to farming. Both require many long hours spent tending to the vines to grow the best possible produce they can. I cannot help comparing this to the loveable Maltese farmer whose passion for potato farming and his memorable phrase “my life is potato” had gone viral. Just like his love for potatoes was almost palpable, a real wine-maker’s passion for growing the best possible grapes is truly remarkable. But if, by their own admission, the best wine is only produced from the best possible grapes, surely all the best and most premium wines are natural, biodynamic or at the very least organic? The reality, however, is that only about 5% of wine consumed is organic. The EU is the top producer, making up to 90% of the global organic wine-growing area, with Spain leading the way followed by Italy and France. Growth in the organic sector has been slow but steady – it stood at 1% in 1999 – but getting organic wine certification is far from a fast and easy process. In the EU it takes a minimum three-year conversion period in the vineyard before the producer may label its wine as “wine made from organically grown grapes”. Moreover, to produce “organic wine”, which is distinctly different, the winemaker would also require certain organic practices to be followed through in the winemaking process, which is not covered by the EU legislation. So organic wines can be made from certified organically grown grapes, but to be a fully “organic” wine, you must not only use organically grown grapes, but also ensure there are no added sulfites (though naturally occurring sulfites will still be present) and there are restrictions on other additives. To label wines as organically grown or certified organic, a winery must fulfil all the requirements stated by its home country’s governing body of agriculture, which differ from country to country. To make things even more confusing for the consumer, either because of the required extra costs or due to the many hoops they have to jump through, some wineries claim to abide by fully organic practices without pursuing certification. This means that
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some wines are said to be organically produced but are uncertified. In truth, three years from deciding to produce an organic wine within the regulations to being fully certified is highly unlikely. A vineyard needs much more time to convert their practices and I know for a fact that most (if not all) premium wine producers are constantly experimenting with areas of their vineyards to convert to organic practices. Changing to a fully sustainable vineyard, experimenting with different naturally occurring yeasts, limiting the number of additives, and other changes in the winemaking techniques all have consequences for the outcome of the wines. Though technically the wine should improve in quality, it takes a lot of time and money to perfect while continuing the business of making good quality wine year in year out. Most large wine producers have selected parcels of their vineyards to experiment with organic and sustainable techniques for several years until they are comfortable applying the technique to the entire vineyard. Gaia Gaja, daughter of Angelo Gaja, who now runs the Gaja Vineyards in Piedmont recently explained that dedicating areas for experimenting is not new in winemaking. It is one of the fundamentals in improving wine, even as a means of preparing for (as opposed to reacting to) the global warming situation. A prominent, romantic Bordeaux winemaker told me that the ultimate goal is not the organic certification but to grow the best possible grapes for the foreseeable future. This can only be achieved if you treat the land with ultimate respect – certification is secondary. Though this sounds rather idealistic, the owner of Château Palmer, one of the most prestigious Châteaux in Bordeaux, explained that there is a general consensus that the eco-friendly green-labels depicting organic, biodynamic or natural wines are too often perceived as cheap or mass-produced. Worse still, if the “natural” or “organic” label is what sells the wine, it then suggests quality is not up to scratch and that in itself is a disservice to the land. Though it sounds like a passionate argument, you might wonder if the owner of this prestigious vineyard was making excuses for the failure to get any form of green certification. In this case, this particular vineyard was certified fully biodynamic in 2017, yet the certification remains relatively unimportant in their marketing strategy, proving that he was being honest after all. Biodynamic winemaking is a few giant green steps beyond general organic wine and is, in effect, its own ecosystem without any allowance for synthetic chemical interference of any kind. Unfortunately, with a reputation of being a “hippie, dippy, wacky commune, back-to-the-Earth zeitgeist” due to their controversial compost methods and due to the fact that they do not have any
A prominent, romantic Bordeaux winemaker told me that the ultimate goal is not the organic certification but to grow the best possible grapes for the foreseeable future.
WINE T&F
legal definition, many winemakers fall short of the biodynamic practices, and those that do can hardly shout out about it. The reason may be that to acquire a biodynamic certification there are certain principles that, in my opinion, veer on borderline excessive, like the application of doses of homeopathic compost including fermented cow manure and quartz ground to a powder, which are to be buried in cow horns or other animal parts such as intestines before use. They are then only applied to the vineyard according to the celestial calendar. To most, myself included, this sounds more like some religious cult than a typical biodynamic practice, and it is thus understandably followed by only the most devoted of biodynamic practitioners. You’d be forgiven for thinking that only a few oddlooking bottles at the top of the supermarket shelf are biodynamic and that most of them do not make the cut at a Michelin-starred restaurant. In fact, some of the most premium wine producers in the world, including the super-premium Cristal Champagne by Louis Roederer, Domaine Leroy, Domaine Zind Humbrecht as well as the most expensive wine in the world Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, are fully biodynamic, but I have yet to see any noticeable biodynamic label on their bottles and it is only their real fans who would know it. Another eco-friendly word that is often tossed around quite a bit is sustainability. This differs from organic or biodynamic in that the winemaker engages in eco-friendly practices such as eliminating waste and pesticides, replanting crops and trees harvested, reducing their carbon footprint, recycling packaging, conserving wildlife and generally avoiding the depletion of natural resources to maintain an ecological balance. Many vineyards work towards sustainability before continuing in their progress towards organic or biodynamic to add to their credentials, while others feel that stopping at being sustainable is enough. Sonoma County in California is one of the most sustainable areas in the world with 97% of farming acreage being sustainable (according to the Sonoma County Winegrowers Association) and France and Italy have been following suit. The Bordeaux Wine Trade is working to make 100% of its vineyards sustainable, with more than 60% of them already reported as engaged in meaningful environmental processes in 2017. This environmental process often includes bat colony protections (which also helps preserve the vines without using pesticides) and changes in cultivation practices such as less grass mowing to allow helpful pollinating insects to thrive. When I recently visited Bordeaux, sustainability was the buzz word most commonly used by the vintners who have not warmed up to organic or biodynamic processes, and I have
yet to visit a good quality vineyard whose owners haven’t adopted any sustainable processes. At the other end of the spectrum there are the natural wines. These have so far defied all attempts to create a legal definition and some supporters happily state that it is a bit of an antiestablishment movement. Isabelle Legeron (Master of Wine), founder of RAW Wine Fair, said that “strictly speaking, natural wine is pure, fermented grape juice” with nothing added. The aim is to “bottle a drink that is alive [and] full of the naturally occurring microbiology that existed on the grapes and in the cellar too”. There is a general consensus that all natural wines are grown from organic grapes, but not all organic wines are natural. Different to organic wines, natural wines do not permit the addition of yeasts or sulphites, fining agents or filtration and pasteurisation. Naturally, these low-intervention wines are frequently brownish in colour due to oxidation, cloudy when not filtered, and often show flavours of bruised apples. It takes a fantastic winemaker to make a wine with minimal intervention and though there are some great showings, most give me a hard-enough time to get through a glass, let alone a bottle. Definitely an acquired taste and surely potential for some great new wines, but I still feel it’s early days for natural winemakers. I am quite sure that the confusing terms, different requirements from country to country and rather rigid requirements has made it quite difficult for winemakers to receive certifications and for the consumer to weave through the definitions and understand what they want and what is available. The unfortunate perception of organic wines needing the label to sell themselves further complicates matters, but in general most wines of a good quality are in fact greener than you may think. If not already biodynamic, they may be looking towards the organic route or, at the very minimum, experimenting towards achieving sustainability. I fear value wines found on the cheaper end of the spectrum are more susceptible to totally disregarding the environment for money, but that too can be an unfair generalisation. On taste alone, it is difficult for even the most advanced palates to know which are environmentally friendly wines, however, I have yet to hear of wineries going back on organic practices. I am confident enough to say that, to keep competing on premium levels, quality wines that have not been looking towards sustainability and green processes will struggle to keep up with the improving palate of the consumer in the near future. n Andrew Azzopardi is a wine specialist certified by the Wine and Spirit Education Trust
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T&F PASTA
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PASTA T&F
Flavours of
SUMMER
Indulge in superb Maltese produce with Claire Borg’s bright and tasty summer pasta dishes. The photos are hers too. I so enjoyed making these dishes and so did my neighbours. As much as I love pasta, there is a limit to how much my family and I can eat in a short time. My all-time favourite remains pasta al pomodoro e basilico. Sweet and juicy tomatoes are perfect for this sauce. I usually make up a double batch and then freeze one for when I’m short of time. To make up these recipes, I used super fresh Maltese produce and was particularly impressed by the sweetness of the yellow cherry tomatoes. In all the recipes I used a very good quality cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil which I got directly from the producer. It’s worth buying good olive oil because it takes any dish to another level. The pasta brands used here are various, but all are artisanal products. Enjoy these recipes and the warm months to come, and eat fresh, seasonal Maltese produce when you possibly can. There really is nothing quite like it.
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PASTA T&F
Mafaldine with Speck and Figs Sweet figs and salty Parmesan, fragrant basil and spicy chilli with toasted pine nuts – this colourful dish oozes flavour. Choose small, firm-fleshed figs, wash them well, and serve them unpeeled.
Serves 2 Cooking time: roughly 10 minutes, depending on the type of pasta YOU WILL NEED
250g mafaldine pasta 10 very thin slices of speck 4-6 figs (depending on how big they are), unpeeled a handful of basil leaves 1 small onion 80g pine nuts Parmesan shavings chilli flakes extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon butter
1. Melt the butter with a drizzle
of olive oil in a pan and cook the chopped onion until golden. 2. Add the pine nuts and toast
them till they turn golden. Then, turn off the heat and add some chilli flakes. 3. Meanwhile bring a large pot
of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta according to the packet instructions. Drain the pasta, add it to the pan with the onion and toss it well. Let the pan stand for a few minutes so the pasta cools down a bit. 4. When the pasta is lukewarm,
add the ripped pieces of speck, the Parmesan shavings and the roughly chopped basil leaves, and toss the pasta well. 5. Divide the pasta between
two dining plates and serve it topped with sliced figs
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T&F PASTA
Conchigliette Primavera Wild rucola has a strong, peppery taste. The cultivated variety is milder and sweeter. Use whichever type you like best.
Serves 5-6 Cooking time: roughly 10 minutes, depending on the type of pasta YOU WILL NEED
500g conchigliette pasta 300g yellow cherry tomatoes, halved 300g red cherry tomatoes, halved 150g pitted black olives 150g sundried tomatoes in olive oil, finely chopped 150g snow peas 6 marinated artichoke hearts, quartered 1 handful mint leaves, roughly chopped 1 handful basil leaves, roughly chopped 1 small bunch Maltese rucola extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves local garlic 60g pumpkin seeds 60g pine nuts goat’s milk feta cheese (optional) salt and pepper
1. Bring a large pot of salted
water to the boil and cook the pasta according to the packet instructions. Drain and cool. 2. Set aside a few of the rucola leaves, and blend the rest with the pumpkin seeds, pine nuts, garlic and olive oil. 3. Mix the rucola pesto with the pasta, season and add the reserved rucola leaves and the remaining ingredients. Mix well. 4. Serve this as it is or topped with crumbled feta cheese.
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Let’s eat clean A cleaner, healthier diet. Good for you, good for the planet. ®
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T&F PASTA
Orecchiette with Broccoli, Pumpkin seeds and Pecorino Pepato
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PASTA T&F
This can be enjoyed warm and freshly cooked, or cold. If you’re serving this cold, let it cool down naturally then chill it in the fridge before serving.
Serves 4-5 Cooking time: roughly 10 minutes, depending on the type of pasta YOU WILL NEED
500g orecchiette pasta 1 large head of broccoli 2 cloves of local garlic 200g of pumpkin seeds 8 tablespoons grated pecorino pepato 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest extra-virgin olive oil 1 punnet of basil salt and pepper
1. In a dry skillet, toast the pumpkin
seeds until they start to pop and turn golden. Turn off the heat and allow the seeds to cool. 2. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Cut the broccoli into florets and drop them into the boiling water. Cook very briefly – no more than a minute and a half or two. Use a slotted spoon to remove the florets and let them drain well. 3. In the same water, cook the orecchiette according to packet instructions. 4. While the pasta is cooking, cut the bottom parts of the broccoli florets and place them in a large bowl. Add the basil leaves, 2 cloves of garlic, most of the toasted pumpkin seeds (leave some to sprinkle over pasta later), 5 tablespoons of cheese and about half a cup of olive oil. Using a hand-held blender, blend together to form a smooth paste. Set this aside. 5. Finely chop the rest of the
broccoli and place them in a large bowl. Drain the pasta and toss it with the chopped broccoli. Season to taste, add the broccoli paste and mix well. The pasta should be heavily coated with chopped broccoli and the broccoli pesto. 6. Serve this sprinkled with
pumpkin seeds, lemon zest, pecorino and a drizzle of oil.
Asparagus, Avocado and Spinach Penne Use only fresh dill. Its fragrance is unmatched by the dried variety.
Serves 2- 3 people Cooking time: roughly 15 minutes, depending on the type of pasta YOU WILL NEED
250g penne pasta 1 very ripe avocado 1 avocado 10 asparagus stalks 1 handful baby spinach leaves 1 small bunch fresh dill 4 cloves local garlic 1 shallot or ½ a small onion ½ a small lemon extra-virgin olive oil salt and pepper
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to the
boil and cook the pasta according to the packet instructions. Drain it and let it cool. 2. In a pan, drizzle some olive oil, add the chopped garlic and chopped asparagus, and cook gently. To avoid the garlic burning, add some water so it steams up and cooks the asparagus. Cook for just 3 to 4 minutes. 3. Mash the very ripe avocado, and then add the finely sliced onion, the finely chopped dill, the lemon juice and some olive oil. 4. In a large bowl, mix the pasta, the cooked asparagus and the avocado paste. Stir the ingredients together until well combined. Add the chopped avocado and the spinach leaves, season and serve drizzled with olive oil.
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T&F PASTA
Pasta al Basilico e Pomodoro Don’t be put off by the long cooking time. Slowcooked tomato sauce is richly rewarding.
Serves 4 Cooking time: 120-150 minutes YOU WILL NEED
500g spaghetti - I use the thinner ones (5-8 minutes cooking time) chilli flakes grated pecorino or Parmesan extra-virgin olive oil FOR THE SAUCE
1-1.2 kg beefsteak tomatoes 2-3 tablespoons tomato paste (kunserva) 1 handful basil leaves 1 onion 1 teaspoon sugar salt and pepper 1 knob of butter extra-virgin olive oil
1. Wash the tomatoes, then prick
them with a sharp, pointed knife. Place them in a large heat-proof bowl, pour boiling water over them, and let them stand for 5-10 minutes. Drain the tomatoes and peel off the skins. Chop them up roughly and put the flesh, pulp and juice into a bowl. 2. In a medium pot, heat up some olive oil and butter and cook the diced onion. Add half of the basil leaves, then the tomatoes and stir. Add the tomato paste and a teaspoon of sugar and season with salt and pepper. 3. Cover the pot and let it simmer gently on a very low flame for 1.5 hours or up to 2 hours. The tomatoes should be juicy enough, but check it every so often to make sure the sauce does not dry up. 4. Just before turning off the heat, add the rest of the basil leaves and a drizzle of olive oil and blend the mixture until smooth. Toss the sauce with the cooked pasta and serve it with more basil leaves, olive oil and chilli and cheese on the side.
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T&F PASTA
Aglio, Olio, Peperoncino with Roasted Cherry Tomato Pasta Chilli flakes add an edge to the sweetness of cherry tomatoes roasted with garlic and thyme.
Serves 2 Cooking time: 25 minutes YOU WILL NEED
250g fusilli corti bucati 25-35 cherry tomatoes 20 cloves local garlic 1 teaspoon thyme extra-virgin olive oil chilli flakes
1. Wash and halve the
cherry tomatoes. Place them in a baking tin, drizzle them with olive oil and sprinkle them with sea salt. Add 8-10 cloves of chopped garlic, sprinkle with thyme and roast in a hot oven until the tops of the tomatoes caramelize. This will take about 20 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta according to the packet instructions. 3. In a pan, gently cook the remaining chopped garlic in olive oil. Add chilli flakes to taste. Drain the pasta and toss it with the olive oil and garlic. Add the roasted cherry tomatoes, toss well, and serve immediately.
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T&F PASTA
Spaghetti with Anchovies, Tender Stem Broccoli and Lemon Lemon zest, anchovies, and garlic balance the delicate taste of tender stem broccoli, and breadcrumbs add a light, crunchy texture. I used a mix of black and white pasta.
Serves 2 Cooking time: roughly 10 minutes, depending on the type of pasta YOU WILL NEED
250g of spaghetti 200g tender stem broccoli 3 tablespoons breadcrumbs 1 small tin of anchovies 8-10 cloves local garlic extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon lemon zest 2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
1. Bring a large pot
of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta according to the packet instructions. 2. Meanwhile, finely chop the garlic and anchovies and gently cook them together in some olive oil. 3. Add the broccoli and half a ladle of pasta water and cook over high heat until the water evaporates. Turn off the heat, drain the pasta and toss it in the pan with the broccoli. 4. Add the breadcrumbs, parsley and lemon zest, mix well, season and serve.
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PASTA T&F
Spaghetti with Vongole and Tuna Roe I cooked the pasta for a little bit less than the recommended time. Then I drained it and cooked it for a minute in the vongole juices to absorb all the flavours.
Serves 2 Cooking time: 10 minutes YOU WILL NEED
500g live vongole (clams) 200g fresh tuna roe - optional 12-16 cloves local garlic ½ a glass of white wine 10-15 cherry tomatoes 1 teaspoon chilli flakes extra-virgin olive oil fresh mint, marjoram, basil and parsley - very finely chopped 250-300g black spaghetti or pasta of your choice
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta according to the packet instructions (mine took 8 minutes) and make the sauce while the pasta cooks. 2. In a large heavy-based pan,
drizzle some olive oil and add the finely chopped garlic. Add some chopped fresh herbs and the chopped fresh tuna roe, if you’re using it. 3. Cook for a short time, then add the vongole and the white wine, cover the pan and let it cook for 2 minutes. Remove the lid, and add the cooked pasta. 4. Turn off the heat and
add the halved cherry tomatoes, more herbs and chilli flakes to taste. Toss well, drizzle with more olive oil and serve immediately.
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T&F HOME GROWN
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HOME GROWN T&F
THE BOUNTY OF A
KITCHEN GARDEN Food grown at home is as fresh and local as it can get. Janine Sultana harvests a feast of memories from her family’s garden. All the photographs here are her own.
E
very culture has the arrival of nature’s gifts that signal the delights of the coming summer months. Malta’s indicators combine the broad brush strokes of poppy-filled fields, the eruption of caterpillars before they metamorphose into a kaleidoscope of f lutter ing b utter f lies , and the spiky rebirth of flowering prickly pear heads, flourishing around town roads and coastal pathways. Alongside these welcome sights is the arrival of the lime-green legume known in general terms as the broad bean, but to us natives, it is the edible jewel we all lovingly call “ful”. Within the walls of our family garden, just beyond the shadows of bountiful lemon and tangerine trees, is where we can find this seasonal produce of broad beans. It is a favourite of my mother’s to grow and is a favourite of my family’s to eat. Here is where my mother plants the seeds in the middle of December and with the right balance of water, sunlight, and arable soil, the maturing plant begins to produce vast amounts of dainty white and black-stroked flowers that blossom prior to fruiting. The butterfly-winged flowers are a sign of a healthy crop and the result of patience, observation and care. When it is time for harvest, during the months of May and early June, it’s somewhat of a race to get my hands on the beans once they’ve been picked from the garden. Being a popular treat in our household, they barely make it into the kitchen let alone into a bowl for the family to share. When they do make it onto the kitchen table, though, you can count on each of us being there indulging in our garden feast. All of our hungry hands quickly begin the drawn-out process of unpacking the beans from
their double layered velvety skin, revealing momentarily the kidney-shaped beans before they disappear into our salivating mouths. There we sit, munching on bean after bean, growing steadily satisfied. There are a variety of recipes, passed on generation after generation, that turn this simple legume into some of Malta’s family-favourite dishes, as well as restaurants which make use of the short-lived “ful” season by featuring it prominently in their specials list. Being somewhat of a spring time ritual, this savoury green bean is lovingly transformed into recipes that are recreated in kitchens across the land. Notable and most popular among them are the warm and earthy kusksu, a flavourful bean broth; our prided bigilla dip, made from dried broad beans; and the fresh and delicious, buttery broad bean-filled ‘pastizzi’. As for my family, one of our favourite ways to enjoy these rustic beans is ripe and raw, fresh from the garden. By a nation of happy bean-eaters, this wholesome bean is greeted with much delight by households across the islands and given the crisis of the past few months, comfort food is a sure way to ease unwanted anxiety. Perhaps leading us to enjoy more profoundly the comforting arrival of “ful” season and all the generational recipes that come with it. As it is often the little things in life that fill us with most contentment, this bite-sized treat never fails to meet those expectations and delivers on its protein-packed deliciousness. Laden with nourishment and nostalgia, it is no wonder that these beans have our collective taste buds singing their praise each year. Follow the recipes on the next pages.
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PRODUCTS FOR ANY TIME OF THE DAY
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HOME GROWN T&F
Fish fillets with broad beans
Serves 2 Cooking: 30 minutes
1. Finely dice the onion, carrots
and garlic, keeping them separate from each other.
YOU WILL NEED
1 fillet of fish of your choice 1 large onion 2 cloves of garlic 140ml white wine 2 carrots 200ml vegetable or chicken stock 500g podded broad beans 200g cherry tomatoes parsley leaves olive oil
2. Place a pan on medium heat with a couple of table spoons of olive oil. Add the onions and cook stirring them occasionally and adding water, if necessary. Once they’re coloured and translucent, add the garlic and carrots and cook them for 3 minutes. 3. Deglaze the pan with white wine and leave the pan on the heat to reduce the liquid. Add the stock and keep the pan simmering to reduce the liquid.
4. Once the liquid has reduced by half, stir in the tomatoes and then the broad beans. Let the pan continue to simmer to reduce the liquid further, then turn off the heat. 5. Put some oil into a separate
pan set on medium to high heat. Season the fish on both sides and place it in the pan, skin side down. Sear for a few minutes, then turn it over and cook until done. 6. Serve the fish fillets on a bed
of beans, garnished with parsley leaves and drizzled with olive oil.
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T&F HOME GROWN
Broad bean pastizzi Makes about 10 pieces Preparation and cooking: 30 minutes, excluding resting time FOR THE PASTRY
400g plain flour 6g fine salt 330ml water, heated to 50°C 30ml olive oil FOR THE BEAN FILLING
500g broad beans 2 cloves of garlic 30ml olive oil finely chopped mint
1. Combine the flour, salt and water
in the bowl of an electric mixer and mix at low speed. Pour the olive oil in slowly as the mixture comes together to form a dough. 2. Stop mixing as soon as the dough is amalgamated and work the dough by hand for 3-4 minutes until it comes away from the bowl with a fairly soft and sticky texture.
3. Put the dough on a work surface and form it into a ball. Pull apart pieces of about 60g each, place them on a baking sheet keeping them several centimetres apart. Cover the balls of dough and leave them to rest in the fridge for at least 2 hours. 4. For the bean paste, combine 500g of broad beans with 2 cloves of garlic and 30ml of olive oil in a blender. Add some finely chopped mint for an enriched flavour and vibrant colour. 5. Blend the ingredients for no
more than a minute to produce a chunky bean paste. Add some water if you prefer a smoother texture. 6. Once the dough has settled, take it
out of the fridge and roll each ball out using a rolling pin. Use your hands to create a cup shape and scoop the bean paste into the middle of the dough. 7. Pinch the dough to cover all of the bean paste securely and place the pie on a baking tray. Repeat with the rest of the pastry. 8. Brush the pies with some butter
and place them in a preheated oven at 180°C to bake for 1015 mins until golden brown.
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HOME GROWN T&F
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T&F TRADITION
HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN
ĠBEJNIET
Fresh cheeselets are readily available at most supermarkets, but it’s fun - and surprisingly easy - to make them at home. Recipe: Mandy Mallia Photography: Megan Mallia
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TRADITION T&F
You’d need around sixteen “cheese baskets” and rennase 25, the enzyme required to clot the milk which you can buy from most pharmacies. Save the proteinrich liquid byproduct (the whey) to use in smoothies or soups.
Makes 12-16 small cheeselets or 8 large ones Preparation: 15 minutes YOU WILL NEED
3 litres of fresh, full fat milk 1 ½ teaspoons rennase 25 1 teaspoon salt freshly crushed peppercorns, to garnish fresh rocket, to serve
1. Warm up the milk in a large, wide pot, until it reaches around 37.7°C (100°F). Whisk the milk occasionally to ensure that a skin doesn’t form on top. If you haven’t got a cooking thermometer available, test the milk by dipping a clean finger in a spoonful. It should be just warm to the touch. 2. Turn off the heat, add 1 teaspoon of salt, and whisk lightly with a balloon whisk. 4. Add 1 ½ teaspoons of
rennase 25 to the pot, and whisk briskly for a few seconds. 5. Leave to stand undisturbed - however
tempting ‘testing the curds’ may be - until completely cool. This will take around 3-4 hours. 6. Ladle the curds into the cheeselet
baskets, draining the whey into a separate container. Top up the baskets with more curds, if necessary. 7. When you have used up all the curds, place the filled baskets on a draining rack over a dish, and refrigerate overnight or for around 16 hours. 8. Remove the cheeselets gently from
their baskets, and serve sprinkled with freshly crushed peppercorns and on a bed of fresh rocket, or drizzled with good quality olive oil and served with crusty bread.
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T&F BAKING
BREAD AND BUTTER
Rosemary and garlic butter
Making your own daily loaf is deeply satisfying, particularly when it’s as good as this one. Recipes and photography: Amy Mallia
Spiced butter
No-knead Carrot Sourdough Bread 52
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BAKING T&F
No-knead Carrot Sourdough Bread If you use all-purpose flour instead of bread flour, use around 80g warm water instead of 100g. All-purpose flour has less protein than bread flour and will absorb less water, making the dough more difficult to handle if you use too much.
YOU WILL NEED
50g active sourdough starter 100g lukewarm water 250g carrot purée at room temperature 450g bread flour 50g whole wheat flour 1½ teaspoons salt ½ teaspoon ground turmeric (this will brighten the bread colour)
Preparation and bulk rise
Shaping and second rise
Scoring and baking
1. In a bowl, whisk the starter,
1. After the dough has risen, tip it out onto a floured surface.
1. Preheat your oven to
carrot purée and water together. Mix in the flour, salt and turmeric using your hands or a rubber spatula until a dense, sticky dough forms. 2. Scrape down the sides of the bowl using a spatula. Cover the bowl with a damp cloth and let the dough rest for 30 minutes to 1 hour. 3. Now, stretch and
fold the dough until it begins to tighten. 4. Cover the bowl tightly with clingfilm and leave the dough to rise for 8 hours in a warm area until it has doubled in size. If you’re preparing the dough in the evening, let it rise overnight.
2. To shape the dough, fold
a section towards the centre and lightly press it down. Continue doing so until you have gone full circle. Flip the dough over and let it rest for 5 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, dust a banneton with flour or, if you don’t have one, lightly grease a big bowl and coat it with flour. 4. Flour your hands, cup the
dough and push it away from you and then gently pull it towards you in a circular motion to tighten its shape. Once the dough starts to hold its shape, gently pick it up and place it into the banneton or bowl, seam side up. 5. Cover the bowl and let the dough rise for 30 minutes to an hour. It’s ready when it’s puffy and has risen slightly, but has not yet doubled in size.
220°C / gas mark 7. 2. Line a tray with baking paper and dust it with flour or semolina – semolina is less likely to burn as it’s coarser than flour. 3. Overturn the banneton/ bowl onto the tray and coat the dough in flour, using your hands to distribute it evenly over the surface. 4. Score the dough with a razor blade to form a pattern. You need to work quickly because scoring breaks the gluten bonds that hold the dough together, preventing it from spreading out. 5. Cover the tray with
aluminium foil and bake the dough in the centre of the oven for 25 minutes. Remove the foil from the tray and bake for another 25 minutes. Remove the loaf from the oven and let cool for at least 1 hour before slicing.
TIP: When you put the bread tray in the oven, put a heated dish of boiling water on the lower shelf. The steam will give the dough a better rise and crust.
Rosemary and Garlic Butter YOU WILL NEED
200g soft butter 1 clove of finely chopped garlic 2 tablespoons of finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
Mix all the ingredients together until the garlic and rosemary leaves are evenly distributed.
Spiced Butter YOU WILL NEED
200g soft butter 1 clove of finely chopped garlic 1 teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon ground turmeric ½ teaspoon ground cayenne 1 teaspoon ground coriander ½ teaspoon ground fennel seeds
Mix all the spices and garlic together. Put the butter in a bowl and tip in the spice and garlic mix, stirring thoroughly until well combined.
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T&F TEATIME
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TEATIME T&F
FOR THE CAKE
200g butter, at room temperature 200g sugar 200g plain flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 4 eggs, lightly beaten 2 tablespoons milk FOR THE FILLING AND DECORATION
3-4 tablespoons of strawberry jam a small carton of fresh cream 1 tablespoon icing sugar, plus a little extra for dusting 1 punnet fresh strawberries, washed, hulled, and sliced
1. Preheat the oven to 190°C (gas
mark 5), and line a 20cm springform cake tin with baking paper. 2. Cream the butter and sugar together in a large bowl with an electric mixer. Add the lightly beaten eggs, a little at a time, and mix for a few seconds. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, add the flour, baking powder and milk, and beat well until the mixture forms a smooth batter.
Strawberry
Sponge
Add a top layer of strawberries to a traditional Victoria sandwich for a delightful, late spring dessert or teatime treat.
3. Pour the batter into the prepared tin and let it bake until it turns golden and the cake springs back when lightly pressed. This will take around 30 minutes. 4. Allow the cake to cool in the tin for around 10 minutes, then remove from the tin and transfer it to a wire cooling rack. 5. When the cake has cooled down
completely, divide it into two layers. 6. Melt 3-4 tablespoons of strawberry
jam in a microwave oven for a few seconds until slightly runny. Spread the jam over the bottom layer of the cake. 7. Beat the fresh cream with 1 tablespoon
Baking: Mandy Mallia Styling and photography: Megan Mallia
of icing sugar until the mixture stiffens, then spread it over the jam layer.
I used fresh strawberries from a greengrocer in Zebbiegh, where the strawberries are the sweetest I’ve found so far. This was made using plain flour and two slightly heaped teaspoons of baking powder. For a lighter sponge, add a little more baking powder.
8. Put a layer of sliced strawberries over
Serves 8-10 Preparation and cooking – 50 minutes
the cream layer (reserving some slices of strawberry for the garnish), then place the other layer of cake on top. 9. Dust the top of the cake with a
little icing sugar, then garnish the cake with the remaining slices of strawberry. The cake is best served immediately. If any is leftover, store it in the fridge for up to 3 days.
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T&F INTERIORS
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INTERIORS T&F
THE
VALUE
OF
REPURPOSING
Thomas Camilleri, a Maltese actor and creative strategist with an innate flair for design, is on a never-ending scavenger hunt for old, local gems, which he then repurposes and houses in his 1950s corner apartment located in the back roads of Gzira. ARTICLE AND PHOTOS BY JOANNA DEMARCO
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T&F INTERIORS
S
itting at the top of a tall shelf at the back of the apartment is a glass vase filled with a handful of metal sticks, each with a star at the end of it. Magic wands? Almost. They are the metal adornments usually found attached to the halo of statues of the Virgin Mary, discarded by a statue maker, and sold at a local flea market for five euro. A pastel pink ice cream sign which once hung at a seaside kiosk, fished out from the Birgu car boot market is hung opposite an artist’s sketch of a costume belonging to the Manoel Theatre, that was just about saved from being crumpled and thrown out. On a table in the centre of the apartment sits a large collection of pastel opaline glass shades from the 1950s, designed in an array of whimsical shapes, each bought for two to five euro. The list is endless, yet almost all the treasures tastefully collected within this mid-20th century apartment are rich both in story and spirit. T he m a i n s pace wa s originally three small rooms, now turned into a single large room encompassing three purposes: a kitchen, a working space, and a living room. On three of the four sides of the apartment, light floods in through frosted glass windows. The location on the corner is significant, as light enters from all angles, filling the home with natural light for most of the day.
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T&F INTERIORS
T
he furthest window provides what would have been a prime vantage point to the old National Stadium. But there is much more to feast your eyes upon inside: a treasure chest, packed head to toe in Maltese memorabilia; artworks from local artists and travels; plants; ornaments from decades ago; curious furniture, and knick-knacks which would win a nod from any keen designer. Many of the quirky items were found in a state of disuse. But Thomas has a keen eye for valuable and culturally-relevant items with potential, and after sending the piece to the right set of hands with his own tasteful ideas for mending or alteration, its character is renewed and reborn, and it is placed proudly in his Gzira haven, juxtaposed alongside others of its kind. Guests often spend a while looking around the home upon arrival, but Thomas is conscious about his display of items not being ‘museum-like’, but rather, fun and functional. So much so that each item has two stories worth telling: the first, the context and culture from within which it was created; the second, how it was found and repurposed.
all the treasures tastefully collected within this mid-20th century apartment are rich both in story and spirit 62
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Surfacing the most beautiful spaces
Private Residence BORA WHITE FLOORING & SPIDERMAN CLASSIC BOOKMATCH MARBLE
HALMANN VELLA LTD, The Factory, Mosta Road, Lija. LJA 9016. Malta
T: (+356) 21 433 636
www.halmannvella.com E: info@halmannvella.com
T&F INTERIORS
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INTERIORS T&F
O
ne would imagine that his high kitchen stools with a gold-coloured base and watermelon pink velvet fabric came straight out of a 1970s cocktail bar in America, when in fact, they were sourced from a local każin in need of an upgrade, at a bargain price. All they required was upholstering, so Thomas replaced the blue rexine with pink fabric, which breathed life and charm into them. The tall bookshelf filling up a wall towards the back was purchased for €20 from a public library that no longer had use for it. An elegant but homey sofa and armchair in front of the bookshelf were retrieved from a skip and upholstered with fabric from Camilleri Paris Mode, while another was brought in from his grandparents’ old house and given a new life. Contrasting with the fullness off the room is the spacious, high ceiling that has been left raw in exposed concrete, humbly baring a technique using wooden planks, which, when removed, leave the shape and texture of the wood stamped into the concrete. A bedroom with an ensuite bathroom, a spare room, and a bathroom are separated from the main space with more frosted glass doors. The bedroom is majestic, painted in a dark blue colour (Fjord Floor by Sigma) and adorned with brass and goldcoloured frames and ornaments above the headboard, most of which were let go of with ease by their owners.
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T&F INTERIORS
T
he pictures within the frames are varied yet complementary in their array: antique photographs hang near artwork of local artists such as Zvezdan Reljic and Nadine Noko, next to other curious visuals. The gold-yellow curtains dressing the windows were born out of ornamented Victorian curtains which are usually found in older-generation Maltese sitting rooms, often accompanied by furniture covered in plastic. Thomas purchased them from Facebook Market Place and sent them to a seamstress to be simplified and recycled. They give the otherwise dark room a bright splash of colour, especially in the morning when illuminated by the sun. Treasures are even spotted in the guest bathroom, which is decorated in typographic gems too familiar to nostalgic Maltese eyes: the numbers from old buses, set within a plain black frame and placed alongside a Te fit-Tazza illustration of the bus itself. You look downwards to see a sight also familiar, but at the same time, not: mismatching pastel-coloured typical Maltese cement tiles, which he stumbled upon in his father’s old shed, alongside others purchased from flea markets, from friends, or from online sellers. Thomas’ home is an example of the value of repurposing and proof of how charming dÊcor is not necessarily only possible with a large budget. Actually, it is quite the opposite, as long as we know how to look. n
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Always there for you IVORY
With nearly 300 years of experience in paints it’s no surprise that Sigma is Malta’s most trusted brand. Our premium quality paints mean that you’ll always have a beautiful home to return to, with colours and a finish that you can count on for years to come. Ask for Sigma paints by name at more than 150 hardware stores all over Malta and Gozo.
T: 2166 8053 | info@sigmamalta.com | sigmamalta.com |
SigmaMalta
Sigma Coatings is a brand of
T&F PROMOTION
Light is more than just
illumination
S
unlight in particular has a positive influence on our mood. When natural daylight is insufficient or even completely absent, artificial lighting comes in and creates a sense of wellbeing. To ensure the right lighting effect, professional planning is essential. For an effective lighting concept, every area requires the right lighting technology, together with expert hands to install it. For more than 40 years, SLV has been a strong presence in the lighting sector. The brand offers first-class service standards, guaranteed quality, ease of design and installation, and an unparalleled variety of products, together with availability from stock. ESS Ltd is the exclusive partner for SLV in the Maltese Islands. For the third year running, it is holding the SLV Lighting Event throughout June, with unmissable discounts from 30% up to 50% off. Whether you are after interior or exterior lighting, you will find a wide selection from the SLV Big White Catalogue 2020 which can be browsed online too, with most of the popular products on display at the showroom in Imriehel. Furthermore, we offer a good selection of items available from stock, or on order with a short lead time of approximately just two weeks. Our expert sales team will gladly assist you with your purchases, while also offering you tailor-made assistance with choosing the right products for your project. To set up an appointment for our tailor-made assistance service, call 22565555 or email us at slv@ess.com.mt www.slv.de
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T&F PROMOTION
All-New HĂźlsta
NEO
Neo Bedroom consistently and perfectly complements the successful, classic Neo Living Room. The simplistic design combined with beautifully detailed features and an elegant mix of materials turns this new bedroom furniture into a renowned classic. The bed features elegantly rounded bed sides as well as a sophisticated headboard and footboard.
In terms of styles, NEO covers a wide spectrum. The simplicity works well with both minimalist interior design trends and opulent architecture. Even large combinations with many units deliver a clean look. NEO is available in lacquer, high-gloss lacquer, and warm wood tones. The various units are available in different widths of up to 246.4 cm. Well thought-out accessories such as lighting, cable inlets, and charging stations with USB interface provide maximum functionality.
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PROMOTION T&F
Neo units can be customised through combining different designs and finishes, and variability can even be increased by special sizes, substructure units, and by fitting units on walls. Ancillaries in 1950 colours according to NCS create some exciting contrasts. The beds, with their elegantly curved side sections and an arched substructure that is cleverly integrated into the head and footboard, especially catch the eye. The upholstered beds available in an attractive collection of covers radiate a special feeling of warmth. The ancillary units in the Neo Sleeping product line are available in 1950 lacquer colours according to NCS from this year. NEO is the perfect living room range for interior design ideas that are unshackled from the mainstream. The design is simplistic, featuring handle-less fronts and clean outlines. The wide choice of units makes individual planning particularly easy.
Discover the HĂźlsta NEO living and bedroom product lines exclusively at Joinwell in Mill street Qormi.
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T&F ARCHITECTURE
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ARCHITECTURE T&F
MYKONOS HIDEAWAY An island holiday home blends sensitively into the landscape, bridging heritage, locality and contemporary life Architects: K-Studio • Photography: Claus Brechenmacher & Reiner Baumann Photography
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T&F ARCHITECTURE
S
itting on the ridge of the hill of Aleomandra in Mykonos, Villa Mandra is almost entirely hidden from view, blended into a sensitively landscaped, stone-walled garden that screens it from the road behind. The 6-bedroom holiday house built for a young couple to enjoy with their family and friends enjoys spectacular views, looking straight out to sea and the sunset over the neighbouring island of Delos. The house is built upon the idea of slow, laid-back summer living, and encourages mindful connection with family, friends and the freedom to exist peacefully in nature. Form follows emotion rather than function, as every space in the home is a place for rest, reflection and exploration. The architecture filters the overwhelming intensity of the Mediterranean climate by providing shade and protection from the elements, allowing its occupants to enjoy being outside any time of day. The simple white volumes, straight stone walls and light pergola planes sit comfortably in the Cycladic landscape.
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ARCHITECTURE T&F
A
lthough the house needed to accommodate a large number of guests, the architects didn’t want to dominate the landscape with oversized volumes. Inspired by the humble complexity of the traditional island vernacular they reduced the architecture to two small traditionally whitewashed volumes and a third volume in stone dug from the site. These are built around a large courtyard-style living area which is covered by an expansive but lightweight chestnut pergola. The courtyard is the focal point of the house, seamlessly connected to the living room and kitchen volumes and overlooking the pool and gardens beyond. The bedrooms are beneath the pool garden, quietly enjoying privacy and uninterrupted views over the lower garden to the sea. Their separation from the public areas of the house further reduces the home’s overall impact on the landscape and cleanly divides its social and private spaces.
Hand-built stone walls are sharply confident.
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T&F ARCHITECTURE
K
ey to the character of the house is the palette of traditional materials including lime-wash, stone, and wood. These were applied and engineered with contemporary techniques to create nonnostalgic architecture that bridges heritage and locality with contemporary life. Handbuilt stone walls are sharply confident; traditionally rendered, round-edged volumes are perfectly flat and smooth. The customary chestnut pergola has been engineered to increase its structural integrity. The glue-lam beam lattice sits lightly on the white volumes, shading and protecting the extensive courtyard beneath. The simple white volumes, straight stone walls and light pergola planes sit comfortably in the Cycladic landscape and the efficiency of their layout, centred around the courtyard living space, streamlines daily life. Villa Mandra is informed by humble Cycladic tradition, enriched by natural materiality and inspired by contemporary summer living. n
The architecture filters the overwhelming intensity of the Mediterranean climate.
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SCHEDULE AN INSTORE APPOINTMENT ON OUR FACEBOOK PAGE
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T&F TRENDS
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1. Zýmē 60 20 20 Cabernet. Red tending to deep purple, and to garnet with ageing; glycerine-rich. Aromas of wild red berry fruit, blueberry, redcurrant, wild blackberry, musk and spices. Enters with immediately-appealing richness on the palate; austere, complex, long-lingering, and well-balanced, with pronounced tannins and form structure. Offers aromatic impressions of prune marmalade and wild red berry. Lengthy finish, with delicate hints of black pepper, country herbs, and clay earth. Ideal food pairing at its best with grilled or roasted meat and medium-aged cheeses. Abraham’s Supplies Co. Ltd T: +356 2156 3231 viniecapricci@abrahams.com.mt www.viniecapricci.com
2. Antonin Blanc by Marsovin Winery. Antonin Blanc is Marsovin’s only Private Estate Selection wine produced in Gozo from selected and hand-picked Chardonnay grapes harvested at the Ramla Valley Estate. The Estate, which spans over 38 tumoli of land in the heart of the valley, particularly favours the growth of the noble grape variety, Chardonnay. The hillsides shelter the vines from the long summer days and the cool breeze coming from the bay helps the crop to retain its high level of acidity. Antonin Blanc is a refreshing wine boasting vanilla and burnt toast aromas that give way to crisp citrus and apple notes on the palate. It is full and round in the mouth, and while retaining a fruity Chardonnay character, the subtle nuance of oak adds finesse and complexity to this noble wine.
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3. Meridiana Wine Estate is spread over 19 hectares and is situated in Ta’ Qali. Most of the 140,000 bottles of D.O.K. wines produced annually are sold in Malta. Meridiana’s wine selection includes the Isis Chardonnay, Astarte Vermentino, Melqart Cabernet Sauvignon/ Merlot, Bel Syrah, Nexus Merlot, Celsius Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve and the Baltis Moscato Passito. The more casual Fenici range is made of a White, a Rosé and a Red, three lovely easy to drink wines which, apart from Meridiana’s renowned quality, also offer great value for money. For home deliveries, order online on www.srausi.com #staysafe
4. Pascual Milkshakes are available in 3 flavours: vanilla, strawberry and chocolate. They are the perfect daily boost for your children to keep them healthy, with a high source of calcium and protein, creamy texture and also gluten-free. They come in the perfect size and they are also long life. Let your kids indulge in their favourite flavour.
5. Misura offers a selection of products suitable for anyone at any time of day. These ranges consist of cereals, biscuits, crackers, rusks, snacks, and pasta. The new Natura Ricca and soya range is made from a variety of natural superfoods which are rich in taste and nutritional benefits. The Dolcesenza range contains only sugar derived from raw materials with no added sugar, the Privolat range is lactose- and egg-free, the Fibrextra range is packed with fibre, and the Multigrain range is made out of a variety of wholegrains. Trade enquiries: info@viviancorp.com or call 2258 8600
DESIGN T&F
t Bridgepoint catering tap range offers a beautiful combination of our handmade kitchen sinks and our 100% brass catering tap. High quality 1.2mm thick stainless steel is used in all our sink productions making them durable and long lasting. The catering tap range has extremely versatile hoses since they pull out from the holder, making it easier to use. All products are found online on bridgepointmalta. com and available from stock in our showroom in Santa Venera, Malta. t Silestone Blanco Zeus is a white almost immaculate, energetic and timeless colour and a sure bet for both indoor and outdoor decoration. It’s ideal for kitchen tops and flooring. Silestone is a compound made up of 94% natural quartz, which makes it extraordinarily hard and resilient. It is an excellent surface for kitchen worktops, bathrooms, floors and wall cladding using the minimum number of joints. Silestone Blanco Zeus forms part of the ‘Top Solutions’ and it’s available at Halmann Vella, Mosta Road, Lija. www.halmannvella.com
u The two soft circular cushions, extractable and removable, are the characteristic and functional element of Hug 01 Round bed by Noctis. Made in high density foam and covered with fabric matched to the bedframe, they enrich and add comfort to the panel of the wooden headboard. This collection has ten different models including Hug 01 Pillow, Hug 01 Lines or Hug Soft for total comfort. Discover a game of curved lines, infinite possibilities of combination and personalisation from the latest collection HUG by Noctis, available from Joinwell in Qormi.
p Switch Fabric 451 - By Diphano. The satin white frame makes this robust collection sparkle with lightness and elegance. With detachable, waterproof covers and stackable seaters this collection is easily maintained and rearranged on both large and less spacious terraces. But the irresistible appeal of the Switch collection is undeniably its inviting soft seat and back cushions. So sit back, relax and embrace the delight. Large selection of Diphano Outdoor furniture available from Satariano, Valley Road, B’Kara. Tel 2149 2149
p Collection Norgestone by Novabell. Norgestone reads outdoor as a natural extension of indoor space. For this reason, natural and measured surface movements are designed to achieve perfect colour coordination and precise in-and-out communication. The five Norgestone shades have incredibly balanced tones and graphics. The combination of a wide range of sizes and natural colours gives spaces a unique, welcoming and organic overall effect. Available from Satariano, Valley Road, B’Kara. Tel 2149 2149
p Foyer, the new marble-effect collection by Marca Corona, takes its inspiration from the innovative “pop-luxe” trend, which seeks to reinvent classic style and precious materials through new cross-over effects and colour combinations. The Foyer collection reinvents the noble material par excellence, with an innovative reworking of graphics and colours. This new series of porcelain stoneware floor and wall coverings comprises five different graphics, from the bright and light shades Joy, Pure and Clear to the darker, more striking Elegant and Intense. View the full range at Halmann Vella, Mosta Road Lija. www.halmannvella.com
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T&F IN SEASON
MYRTUS COMMUNIS A native of the Mediterranean region and Middle East, the aromatic myrtle plant (Rihan) is laden with meaning: it represents community, and is thought of as a symbol of Eden, of peace, of sexuality, love and marriage. In Greco-Roman antiquity, Myrtos or Myrtus was associated with the goddesses Demeter and Aphrodite. Ovid describes the goddess of love, Venus, emerging from the waves holding a sprig of myrtle. To the Greeks and Romans, the plant was sacred and considered an aphrodisiac, often appearing in wedding crowns worn by the bride or groom. To this day, fragrant sprays of myrtle are often woven into bridal bouquets, where it symbolises love and fidelity. In classical times, garlands of honour made from myrtle sprigs were sometimes presented to athletes and poets, symbolising bloodless victory. The evergreen shrub’s neat structure, with small glossy leaves and fragrant star-shaped flowers, make it a favourite feature of formal gardens, potted and trimmed as topiary or rooted in the ground as a hedge. Allowed to grow to its natural height, a myrtle plant can be as much as five metres tall, laden with small, sweetly-scented, white flowers with a burst of long stamens that attract butterflies and bees. The flowers mature into purplish black berries, food for wild birds lucky enough to survive hunters’ guns. The plant’s leaves too are fragrant, suffused with an oil, Myrtol, which was once used as an antiseptic and whose scent is reminiscent of eucalyptus, though it is milder and sweeter. In the kitchen, Myrtle leaves can be used in meat, poultry, and game dishes, added to stews or stuffing, or whole sprigs wrapped around meat to add flavour as it cooks. The berries are sweet, with flavours of rosemary and juniper. Dried and crushed, since Biblical times they have been used to flavour food in much the same way as black pepper, though they are now more commonly used in sweet dishes or liqueurs. n
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