Taste & Flair October 2023

ISSUE 159 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

OCTOBER 2023

Feed your imagination FOOD • WINE • ARCHITECTURE • ART • INTERIOR DESIGN

think quality, get comfort, live luxury.

FREE BOSCH DISHWASHER!

Plus up to 30% Discount on your kitchen Offer valid till 31st October 2023. T&Cs apply.

Triq L-Imdina, Zone 2, Central Business District, Birkirkara T. 2546 4000 | info@oxfordhouse.com.mt | www.oxfordhouse.com.mt

T&F EDITORIAL Claire Borg’s Marbled Purple Sweet Potato and Lemon Cake - photo by Claire Borg. See feature on page 30

WELCOME As the seasons shift gear and attention turns inwards, we look for stories filled with colour, warmth, and a feeling of home. In this month’s food features, Michael Diacono celebrates the humble lampuka; Claire Borg pours colour and love into an array of sweets and savoury snacks; Sumayya Usami shares some of her family recipes, handed down through generations of her family in Pakistan and England; and for dessert, we serve up cake and “cappuccino” scented with rose water. Andrew Azzopardi delves into the factors that can push up the cost of a bottle of wine and make the difference between one that is valuable and worth celebrating or merely carries a high price tag. Seb Tanti Burlò returns to Malta with his most recent exhibition at R Gallery in Sliema. Froġa / Farrago is Burlò’s take on the beauty he sees beyond the bleakness of our surroundings – gardens, friendship, childhood adventures, long walks and summertime meals.

In our design section, we visit a townhouse which had fallen into disrepair and which has now been brought back to life, revitalising its particular corner of Valletta; and a young architect couple’s beautifully designed family home that is filled with light and nature and their own bespoke pieces. We hope you enjoy this issue. We’ll be back in November.

If you missed any issue of Taste&Flair and want a copy, we may be able to help so please do get in touch with us by email, Messenger, or on Instagram.

Corinne

Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta Editorial Board Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia Executive Editor Corinne Vella Editorial Assistants Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia Art Director

Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Assistant

Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt Production Manager André Camilleri Production Assistant Conrad Bondin Prepress & Printing Print It All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the written prior agreement of the publisher.

Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*.

The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888 Pieter de Hooch depicted domestic life by focussing on interior architecture rather than on the human figure as his contemporary and colleague, Jan Vermeer, did. In “The Mother” (c. 1660) de Hooch sets the scene against the backdrop of an alcove bed. The light-flooded hall seen through the open doorway contrasts with the half-dark room at the front of the painting, creating an impressive sense of depth and a harmony of colour and light that both generates and emphasises the warmth of domesticity.

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*The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.

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T&F CONTENTS

CONTENTS pg16

pg30

16

A fish for all reasons

Michael Diacono celebrates the humble lampuka

30

Sweet and savoury Claire Borg’s colourful cornucopia

pg50

42

Heaven scent

The sweet taste of rosewater

46

Luxury wine

Andrew Azzopardi on what impacts the value of wine

50

Food, flavour, freedom

Award-winning Sumayya Usmani’s family recipes

pg70

56

The Greenhouse

Where beautiful design is a way of life

pg56

70

Four Sappers Street

A seventeenth century townhouse rehabilitated for multiple residential use

78

Froġa / Farrago pg42

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Burlò’s new exhibition finds beauty beyond the bleakness

T&F SEAFOOD

“It’s that time of the year when we celebrate the humble lampuka.

Although not considered to be a prime fish, its affordability makes it an obvious choice while it is in season. ” Michael Diacono

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SEAFOOD T&F

A

FISH FOR ALL REASONS

Seasonal lampuki are plentiful and the ultimate convenience food.

Michael Diacono, chef patron, Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro, has some fresh new ways of serving this perennially favourite fish.

Styling and photography: Brian Grech Wine recommendation: Andrew Azzopardi, Vintage 82

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T&F SEAFOOD

LAMPUKI TARTARE WITH MANGO This is delicious, delicate and very presentable too. Serving this with crusty bread is a must.

Serves 6 • Preparation: 20 minutes Recommended wine: “A refreshing New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc would work wonders with the fish and the tropical flavors would further complement the mango fruit.”

YOU WILL NEED:

800g cold treated lampuki fillets, skin removed 1 small mango, not too ripe • sea salt 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped freshly cracked pepper • extra-virgin olive oil some fresh chives, chopped 1. Cut the fish into small ½cm cubes

and transfer these to a bowl.

2. Peel the mango, slice it and cut into small dice. Add

the chopped fruit to the fish together with the chopped onion. Mix gently, season, and drizzle with a very little extra-virgin olive oil to just coat everything lightly.

3. Transfer the fish mixture to serving plates.

You may use moulds to shape the presentation or go for a more free-form pile.

CRUDO

4. Sprinkle the plated fish with chopped chives and a fine drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. I garnished with some dried chilli strands and extra mango slices.

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Being caught in abundance regularly makes lampuki a good choice to be consumed raw.

However, some precaution must always be taken whenever using any fish for crudo. Firstly, your fish must be very fresh and should have been chilled as soon as they were caught. Only buy from reputable fishmongers, who’ll ensure this. Commercially, we then use blast chillers to reduce the temperature fast and store the fish for 24 hrs at -20°C. At home, you will need to place the fish fillets on a clean tray that is covered well with cling film and store them at a minimum -18°C for 96 hours before consuming them raw.

Having said all this, keep in mind that there is ALWAYS a risk when eating raw fish or shellfish.

SEAFOOD T&F

LAMPUKI PARMIGIANA As I love aubergines, I love parmigiana, and I love fish, this recipe works for me.

I hope you’ll love it too.

Serves 4 • Preparation and cooking: 75 minutes Recommended wine: “A richer-style Spanish or Italian rosé would match the richness and depth of this dish. It can also work with a slightly chilled, low tannin red such as Beaujolais or Pinot Noir.”

YOU WILL NEED:

800g aubergines (approximately), peeled and sliced Semolina vegetable oil to fry extra-virgin olive oil 1 clove garlic, chopped 500ml polpa pomodoro 1 teaspoon sugar salt and pepper 200g mozzarella di bufala basil 500g filleted lampuki, diced 1 tablespoon grated parmesan 1 tablespoon bread crumbs

1. Heat some vegetable oil in

a pan. Run the aubergines through the semolina then fry them for about 3 minutes on each side, till they turn golden brown.

Place them on absorbent paper to drain the excess oil

2. Heat some extra-virgin

olive oil in a pot and add the chopped garlic. Cook it for a few seconds then add the polpa. Rinse out the tomato can with a little water into the sauce.

Season with the sugar, salt and pepper, and let the pot simmer for 20 minutes.

3. Break the mozzarella

into pieces.

4. Build the parmigiana in layers as you would a dish of lasagna. Start with a little sauce then add a layer of aubergines. Add some more sauce, then some mozzarella, then a layer of fish. Repeat the layers until you have used up all the ingredients.

5. Mix the breadcrumbs with the parmesan and sprinkle them all over the top.

Heat oven to 200°C and bake the parmigiana for 20 minutes till golden brown. Remove it from the oven and let it rest for 15 minutes before serving.

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T&F SEAFOOD

LINGUINE WITH LEMON AND LAMPUKI A quick plate of pasta which is vibrantly fresh tasting and sublimely pleasing.

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SEAFOOD T&F

Serves 4 as a starter Preparation and cooking: 30 minutes Recommended wine: “Such a delicate dish requires a wine that would simply enhance the flavours of the lemon without adding too much contrast. Italian wines such as Vermentino, Grillo or unoaked French wines such as Chablis or Sancerre would work perfectly. If you want to keep the flavours more local, at the top or my list of choices would also be a Maltese wine such as Girgentina. Just make sure that it is unoaked.”

YOU WILL NEED:

360g linguine 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 60g unsalted butter zest and juice of 2 Maltese organic lemons salt and pepper 300g filleted lampuki chopped ½ tablespoon grated pecorino a few sage leaves, finely chopped parsley, finely chopped toasted breadcrumbs to top 1. Set a large pot of salted water on the

heat and bring it to the boil.

2. Place the extra-virgin olive oil and butter into a

large pan and heat it till the butter is melted. Add the lemon zest and juice and cook them on high heat for a minute. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Boil the pasta till very al dente then transfer the

pasta to the pan with the lemon. Add a ladle of the pasta cooking water and stir the mixture on high heat.

4. Add the pecorino and sage and stir till the sauce thickens slightly.

5. Serve at once sprinkled with chopped parsley and toasted breadcrumbs.

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T&F SEAFOOD

LINGUINE TEMPURA

This is not a recipe to prepare every day as it does involve deep frying, but the batter is light and crisp. I also would not recommend making this at home for large numbers of people as it is best when fried and served immediately. I served these with wakame salad and a dipping sauce made with light soy sauce to which I added the juice of ½ a lemon.

Serves 2 Preparation and cooking: 30 minutes Recommended wine: “A refreshing and mineral wine such a dry Riesling would work perfectly here, but I think my wine of choice would be a sparkling wine. In this case, both an easy-drinking prosecco or more complex Champagne could both work perfectly.”

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YOU WILL NEED:

1 egg 1 cup very cold water 1 cup plain flour, sifted 1kg filleted fresh lampuki, cut into 8 cm pieces vegetable oil to deep fry flour to coat TO SERVE:

Wakame salad Soy sauce and lemon and lime wedges

1. Break the egg into a

large bowl and mix it with chopsticks to break it up and just incorporate the white with the yolk. Pour in the VERY COLD water slowly while mixing. Then add the sifted flour and mix it in. The batter will be slightly lumpy, but that’s ok.

2. Heat clean oil in a

deep fat fryer till 171°C.

3. Coat the fish fillets

lightly in flour then dip them into the batter. Drip off any excess batter before deep frying the coated fillets for approximately 4 minutes till they are crisp and very lightly coloured. Drain them on kitchen paper for a second or two and serve them immediately.

T&F SEAFOOD

LAMPUKI BAKED ON SALT Baking the fish on a bed of sea salt is a fun way of presenting it whole at the table for a relaxed dinner or lunch.

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking: 40 minutes Recommended wine: “I would opt for a refreshing and slightly neutral-flavoured wine such as Sancerre, Grüner Veltliner or unoaked Sauvignon Blanc.”

YOU WILL NEED:

1kg sea salt 4 tablespoons water a few sprigs of fresh rosemary 1 lemon, sliced 1 large lampuka, filleted salt and pepper extra-virgin olive oil Preheat oven to 200°C 1. Place the salt into a large bowl

and moisten it with the water.

Mix it well then shape it into a large oval on a flat baking sheet.

2. Scatter the salt with rosemary

sprigs and some of the lemon slices. Place the dish into the oven and bake the salt for 15 minutes.

3. Remove the dish from the oven

and place the fish fillets skin side down on the hot salt. Season them with salt and pepper. Place the remaining lemon slices on the fish and add some more rosemary.

Drizzle the fillets lightly with extra-virgin olive oil and return the dish to the oven for 10 minutes.

4. Serve these whole at table.

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SEAFOOD T&F

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T&F SEAFOOD

LAMPUKI INVOLTINI AL FORNO

Prepare the fish rolls in the morning and secure them with long toothpicks. Then, leave them in the fridge to rest. That way they should keep their shape when they are baked in the evening.

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking: 30 minutes, plus a few hours resting in fridge Recommended wine: “This dish can handle wines with a little bit more body, but still keeping rather neutral citrus flavours. Unoaked Chablis, Pinot Gris or a Spanish Albariño would work well. Local, unoaked white Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs usually have a little bit of body and richness. I also find many of the local wines have a certain saline twist to them adding a beautiful component to this already lovely dish.”

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YOU WILL NEED:

4 lampuki fillets of approximately 350g each salt and pepper 1 packet baby rocket 80g pine nuts 1 tablespoon coarsely grated parmesan 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves extra-virgin olive oil 1 glass dry white wine

1. Lay the fillets skin side

3. Preheat the oven to

2. Carefully roll up the

4. For the photo shoot I served these with traditional Maltese roast potatoes made with onions, tomatoes and fennel seeds.

down on a flat surface and season them with salt and pepper. Cover them with rocket, pine nuts and parmesan, then drizzle them very lightly with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle them with the thyme.

filled fillets tightly, trying to keep as much of the filling in as possible. Use long picks or skewers to secure them, then place them into a baking dish. Add the white wine and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. Cover the dish and let it stand for a few hours in the fridge.

190°C. While the oven is heating, remove the fish from the fridge and let the dish warm up to room temperature.

Bake the fish uncovered for 10 to 12 minutes.

T&F PROMOTION

Lunching on a

SUNDAY AFTERNOON A T F R A M A R T I N O R E S T A U R A N T A T T H E 5 - S TA R C O R I N T H I A S T G E O R G E ’ S B A Y I N S T J U L I A N ’ S

F

or many of us, Sunday is synonymous with a leisurely lunch, a cherished tradition that brings families and friends together. It's a day when time slows down, the week's worries fade into the background, and food and conversation take centre stage. Now, you can enhance this time-honoured tradition with an exciting buffet feast at Fra Martino restaurant, located at the 5-star Corinthia St George’s Bay in St Julian’s.

Sundays at Fra Martino have always been a hit, thanks to their scrumptious food and attentive service. But this year, the team is taking things up a notch with an even wider range of delectable choices, including beloved classics and a few surprises. Every week, you and your family get to indulge in a feast featuring eight bountiful food stations, each serving up freshly prepared, piping hot dishes bursting with flavour.

So, what can you look forward to? Well, there’s too much to mention, but we’ll whisk you through some of the highlights to whet your appetite. To kick things off, indulge in Maltese and Mediterranean Antipasti, the perfect starters to ease you into your meal. And if you're a sushi lover, you're in for a treat with a fine selection crafted by a master, bringing the flavours of Japan to your plate.

There’re also steamy bowls of soup to enjoy, including a Roasted Sweet Corn and Chilli Soup, served with thyme scones and local honey. It's the ideal choice for a cosy autumn afternoon, warming your soul with every spoonful.

Who can resist the allure of a hearty plate of pasta? Visit the live cooking station on the restaurant floor, where the chefs will be working their magic to create your favourite homemade pasta dish using an array of fresh, high-quality ingredients. Don't miss out on the spicy lamb and haloumi cheese lasagna. It's a savoury sensation.

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PROMOTION T&F

And for those craving something a bit more exotic, venture over to the authentic Indian station. Here, your taste buds can enjoy a selection of curries and Asian specialties, including the Spicy Prawn Jinga Goa Curry and a mouthwatering Vegetable Biryani.

Of course, it’s not a proper Sunday lunch without a carvery and Fra Martino certainly doesn’t disappoint on this front. This year, there’s a succulent assortment of beautifully cooked meats to choose from, including classic beef wellington, honey-glazed leg of gammon, or tender chicken doner kebabs. But that's not all.

Head to the chaffing station for more temptations, from grilled swordfish and braised pork cheeks to slow-roasted duck and even vegetarian options.

Kids are also well catered for with their very own food station offering golden chicken nuggets, sizzling Cumberland sausages, homemade potato smiles, and crispy fish fingers. For a sweet ending, they can enjoy marshmallows and prettily decorated cupcakes. Even more sweets await at the dessert stand, enough to satisfy any sweet tooth and transport you to dessert heaven.

Indulge in all this deliciousness and more, accompanied by a generous helping of Corinthia hospitality that even extends to complimentary hotel parking.

Families will be delighted to know that children under five dine for free. And if Sunday doesn’t work for you, fear not. This year, Fra Martino introduces the Symphony of Flavours, a Saturday evening buffet offering plenty of tasty options to keep the whole family happy. Diners benefit from complimentary parking for an easy arrival.

For sample menus, pricing details, and to reserve your spot at Fra Martino's buffet experiences, simply visit: www.corinthia.com/st-georges-bay/restaurants-bars/fra-martino Or phone +356 2370 0000 or email framartino.stgeorges@corinthia.com

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T&F SWEET & SAVOURY

CULINARY COLOUR

When all you want is something light, easy, and fun to make, dip into Claire Borg’s cornucopia of colourful recipes.

Photography: Claire Borg

BEETROOT PICKLED DEVILLED EGGS

1. Chop the beetroots and put them

Retro-recipes are comforting, evoking memories of times past. Devilled eggs were a fashionable party piece in the 1970s, but the culinary practice of filling hard-boiled egg whites with mashed egg yolks goes back centuries.

These are fun to make and you can engage the help of younger members of your household.

mix well and put the whole, peeled hardboiled eggs into the mixture.

Cover the bowl and leave it in the fridge for at least 3 hours. The longer you let the eggs marinate, the more the purple colour will seep into the egg whites. I left mine in the fridge for 3 hours so the colour is a faint pink on the outer layer.

YOU WILL NEED:

2 cooked beetroots, peeled 6 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 2 tablespoons sugar 6 whole peppercorns ½ teaspoon salt 6 hardboiled eggs, peeled mayonnaise fresh dill whole peppercorns

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in a bowl with the vinegar and sugar.

Blend them until they are smooth.

2. Add the salt and peppercorns,

3. Remove the eggs from the mixture,

rinse them well and pat them dry with kitchen paper. Slice the eggs in half lengthways and careful remove the yolks. Place the yolks in a bowl, add the mayonnaise, pepper and fresh dill, and mix them well.

4. Scoop up the mixture into a piping bag and use a notched nozzle to pipe the mixture into the hollow of the egg whites.

5. Serve these with some more fresh dill sprinkled on top.

SWEET & SAVOURY T&F

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T&F SWEET & SAVOURY

BEETROOT COUSCOUS SALAD This fresh tasting salad has plenty of crunch and colour and can be enjoyed as a stand-alone dish or served on the side.

Serves 3-4 as a side dish YOU WILL NEED:

300g couscous 3 cooked beetroots, peeled 200ml boiling water 4 tablespoons olive oil salt and pepper 1 big handful of local rucola leaves 1 handful of parsley 1 small can of sweet corn, drained and rinsed flaked almonds 50g sprouted alfalfa 1 cupful diced beetroot 1 lemon 1. Chop the cooked beetroots.

Put them in a deep pot with the boiling water and blend them well to a smooth liquid.

2. Mix the olive oil into

the couscous in a bowl and season with salt and pepper.

Add the blended beetroot water and mix it in well.

3. Cover the bowl and let it

stand for 10 minutes. Then, fluff up the couscous with a fork and set it aside to cool.

4. Meanwhile, finely chop the parsley and roughly chop the rucola. Add them to the bowl and stir them in. Next, mix in the corn, diced beetroot, flaked almonds and alfalfa.

5. Squeeze half a lemon over the couscous and stir it again.

Serve this with lemon wedges.

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SWEET & SAVOURY T&F

CHARCOAL CHIA BREAKFAST PARFAIT This is a simple, no-cook quick breakfast that is perfect to wake up to on busy days. All you need to do is prepare the charcoal and chia seeds in the evening and then assemble it in the morning.

Serves 2 YOU WILL NEED:

1 glass of water 1 tablespoon of charcoal powder 4 tablespoons chia seeds Greek yoghurt raspberries granola 1. In a small bowl, mix the

charcoal into the water and add the chia seeds. Stir the mixture well, then cover the bowl and let it rest in the fridge overnight.

2. The next morning, divide

the charcoal chia between two serving glasses or mason jars.

3. Top up the chia layer

with Greek yoghurt, then add a layer of raspberries and another of granola.

4. Serve immediately, garnished with fresh flower petals

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T&F SWEET & SAVOURY

MARBLED PURPLE SWEET POTATO AND LEMON CAKE I prefer to use powders rather than artificial food colourings. For this cake, I used a very high-quality sweet potato powder that has no colourants and additives. It is processed to hold no taste, so the powder’s use is only to add colour but not flavour. Alternatively, you can also use a pink pataya powder, black carrot powder or else blue spirulina. The result is a lemony vanilla cake that is perfect to serve with coffee and tea.

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SWEET & SAVOURY T&F

FOR THE PURPLE MIX:

3 large tablespoons sweet potato powder 175g plain flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 200g sugar 2 eggs a few drops vanilla essence 130ml milk 110ml vegetable oil FOR THE PLAIN MIX:

200g plain flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 200g sugar zest of 1 lemon 2 eggs 130ml milk 110 ml vegetable oil T O D E CO R AT E :

3 tablespoons milk 3 tablespoons icing sugar 3 tablespoons purple sweet potato powder Frozen blueberries purple sprinkles

1. Prepare the cake mixes in separate

bowls and preheat the oven to 170°C.

2. Sift the vegetable powders and

flour together and mix in the sugar.

Next, fold in the wet ingredients.

3. Grease a bundt tin with a bit of soft butter,

then sprinkle the inside with breadcrumbs and tip the tin around so that the inside is evenly coated. Shake off the excess breadcrumbs.

4. Pour the cake batter randomly into the bundt tin, alternating the coloured cake mixes. Bake the cake in a the preheated oven set on 170 degrees for 50 minutes or until it is done. (Test it by inserting a cocktail stick or skewer. It should come out clean.) Remove the cake from the oven and let it rest for 10 minutes before turning it out of the tin and allowing it to cool down completely.

5. Sift the sugar and sweet potato powder together, add the milk and whisk the ingredients together till the mixture is smooth and glossy. Drizzle this over the cake.

6. Roll the frozen blueberries in sugar and

arrange them carefully around the top of the cake, and add a few purple sprinkles.

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ROCKY ROAD There’s an irresistible taste of childhood in every bite. If there’s any left over, it will last for up to seven days if stored in an airtight container.

YOU WILL NEED:

500g milk chocolate 200g dark chocolate 1 tablespoon salted butter 4 x 37g packets of Maltesers 100g Brazil nuts 100g raw shelled pistachios 3 42g packets of Jelly Tots 100 g Jelly Beans 150g mini marshmallows 125g dried cranberries 3 tablespoons sprinkles of your choice 1. Break up the chocolate into

small chunks. and put it into a heatproof bowl with the butter.

Set the bowl over a pan of boiling water (bain Marie) and stir the chocolate and butter till they melt into a silky paste.

2. Set aside the sprinkles and

some of the other ingredients for decoration, then mix all the rest into the molten chocolate.

Fold the mixture together until all the ingredients are well incorporated.

3. Pour the mixture into

a large tray (or 2 long tart tins) lined with non-stick paper. Pat the mixture down and sprinkle the remaining ingredients all over the surface.

4. Put the filled tray (or tart tins) into the fridge and let them stay there for at least two hours.

5. Slice the chocolate while still in the tin and place the slices on a serving platter.

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Gio. Batta Delia ESTABLISHED 1901

MOB: 9989 6286 FACEBOOK GIO. BATTA DELIA 1901

T&F SWEET & SAVOURY

NO BAKE RASPBERRY AND COCONUT ENERGY BALLS These are super easy to make and lovely to snack on. They’re not very sweet, so add some icing sugar, if you prefer a sweeter taste. I like them as they are. They are also very scrummy if dipped in chocolate.

To make sure they’re evenly sized, weigh out the paste before shaping it into a ball.

YOU WILL NEED:

3 teaspoons raspberry powder 100g desiccated coconut and more for rolling 3 tablespoons coconut milk (tinned) 2 tablespoons maple syrup 100 g pure ground almonds 1. Sift the raspberry powder into

a bowl, then stir in all the other ingredients until the mixture has an even consistency.

2. To make evenly sized balls,

weigh out the mixture. Or save time by measuring it visually. I made 13 20g balls and had a little extra left over as a taster.

3. Scoop up a bit of the mixture and

use your hands to shape it into a ball.

Roll each one in desiccated coconut and then put it on a serving dish.

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FRESH T&F

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T&F PROMOTION

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PROMOTION T&F

CHRISTMAS WITH

CHEF DAVID GIACOMELLI

S

AT PA L A Z Z O PA R I S I O

ometimes, the pull of the Palazzo is just too much.

Palazzo Parisio, that is. Where else? Long has it been an integral part of the fabric, both societal and architectural, of Naxxar. In the early days of the new millennium, a new Baroness, Christiane Ramsay Scicluna, took her place at the seat of her historic family home and, side-by-side with her daughter Justine Pergola, they turned the gardens and the restaurant into one of the most exquisite destinations on the island.

It was during this time that chef David Giacomelli, from the north of Italy, first started his dance with Palazzo Parisio.

The Luna restaurant, having just been launched, needed a strong team and the Baroness always had an eye for talent.

She spotted David and he soon formed part of the team that placed the restaurant on the local culinary scene. Always restless, he felt the need to soak in more life and kitchen experience before he could grow roots at the palace. So, he left the restaurant and the island behind, heading off to other destinations in the world to learn as much as he could.

It was during this time, working in a multitude of kitchens, that he really honed an integral aspect of his modus operandi. Culinary excellence was always something he strove for - which self-respecting chef wouldn’t? But it was the toxic kitchen atmosphere that he couldn’t take. All the way back to the 90s with Lenny Henry’s Chef! or today’s The Bear, back-of-house antics have always been a strong subject to portray. He vowed to work hard to make working in a kitchen the joy that it should be, thereby encouraging longevity and less turnover in staff.

The timing was opportune, as in the meantime, Justine had taken on the mantle of Baroness after her mother’s passing. Knowing that David’s time at the restaurant was not yet done, she reached out to him, offering him the position of Head Chef and the exciting prospect of being part of the restaurant relaunch.

“The seasonality and the drive for perfection is something that makes working in the Palazzo kitchen a thrilling experience. With brunch, lunch, dinner, afternoon tea, weddings and events - the kitchen is seldom quiet,” he laughs as he exclaims. “We’re barely out of our beautifully fresh summer menu, in which we focused on all the citrus varieties we have available in the garden, yet we’re now full-steam ahead on Christmas. I wouldn’t have it any other way, though!”

Like entertainers and hospitality workers, Christmas is a difficult time for a chef. Forget about days off and time spent with family, the pressure to deliver an outstanding

experience is paramount. With scores of staff parties booked throughout the season, each group of guests needs to leave the Palazzo feeling like they’ve had their best Christmas feast ever. For Giacomelli though, this is what also motivates him to create something that goes beyond simply being a great meal. Christmas is so much more than just that - it’s the decor, the lighting, the temperature, the smell - all of these factors make up that magical feeling that is so hard to describe.

While most establishments tend to follow the Great British tradition of festive fare, menus at the palace are inspired by Italian roots. To this they add contemporary twists and always layer with decadence. For example, it is traditional to serve lasagne for Christmas Day lunch, so they will be paying homage to traditional culinary methods, while adding a touch of the unexpected – walnuts, reminiscent of the autumnal season, porcini mushrooms and Taleggio from the north of Italy, some crispy notes from the guanciale and finished with fresh truffle shavings for an indulgent twist.

It would be amiss to leave turkey out of the equation entirely, so Giacomelli has thrown the rule book out of the window and instead prepared a roulade stuffed with chorizo, served on a bed of polenta. Although David is loyal to his Italian roots, his vast experience has given him the capability to craft a memorable experience based on worldwide culinary traditions – cacao nibs on venison carpaccio, Maltese ġbejna on risotto, gingerbread ice cream.

It’s these unexpected flavour combinations that give guests a feeling of wonder that is quintessentially Christmas at Palazzo Parisio.

For staff parties, dinner reservations and events please contact us on 21412461 or email on info@palazzoparisio.com

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T&F SWEETS

A SLICE AND CUP OF COMFORT “Do thou smile like the rose at loss and gain; for the rose, though its petals be torn asunder, still smiles on, and it is never cast down.”

– Rumi, The Masnavi

Photography: Corinne Vella

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SWEETS T&F

ROSES CAKE

Rose water has a soft flavour but is an acquired taste. Too much tastes too soapy, too little is insipid.

Adjust the amount according to preference.

Serves 6 FOR THE CAKE:

180g unsalted butter 180g self-raising flour 180g caster sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 3 organic eggs ¾ teaspoon baking powder FOR THE SYRUP:

100g granulated sugar 50ml water a few drops of rosewater T O D E C O R AT E :

100g icing sugar 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice fresh roses and leaves raw pistachio nuts 1. Preheat the oven to 180°C

and line a round cake tin with non-stick paper.

2. Beat the butter and sugar

together, then add the eggs and vanilla extract. Stir the baking powder into the flour and then add it all to the mixing bowl.

Whisk all the ingredients together until they form a smooth batter. If the mixture is too thick, add a drizzle of milk.

3. Scoop the batter into

the prepared tin and level it out using the back of a wet tablespoon. Put the filled tin in the oven and let it bake until the cake rises and turns golden brown. This will take about 40 minutes. Towards the end of the cooking time, test whether the cake is done by inserting a skewer.

4. Meanwhile, prepare the syrup. Put the water and sugar in a small pan and stir the mixture over a low heat until the sugar dissolves and the liquid starts to thicken into a syrup. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the rosewater.

5. When the cake is done, remove it from the oven and use a toothpick to prick small holes all over the surface. Drizzle the syrup onto the surface of the cake while it is still in the tin and allow it to soak in. Let the cake cool for ten minutes, then remove it from the tin and let it cool down completely on a wire rack.

6. Next, sift the icing sugar

into a small bowl and whisk in the lemon juice. Add a bit of water and whisk again.

Keep adding water until the icing sugar dissolves but doesn’t get too runny.

7. Drizzle the icing sugar over the cake and let it run down the sides. Allow the icing to set a little, then transfer the cake to a presentation platter. Cut the pistachio nuts into slivers and arrange them around the base of the cake. Top the cake with fresh roses and leaves and serve.

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T&F SWEETS

ROSE “CAPPUCCINO”

This can be served cold on warmer days, but it tastes a lot better when it’s served warm.

Serves 1

YOU WILL NEED:

1 glassful of milk vanilla extract 1 tablespoon wild thyme honey a few drops of rosewater ¼ teaspoon beet powder (optional) 1 dried rosebud dried rose petals, crushed crushed raw pistachios 1. Put all the ingredients

into a small pan and stir them together. (The beet powder is just for colour and can be omitted.)

2. Place the pan on a

low heat and warm up the liquid gently. Don’t let it boil. It just needs to be comfortably warm.

3. Remove the pan from

the heat and use a stick blender to blitz the liquid until it foams. Alternatively, use a milk frother.

4. Pour the foamy liquid into a heat-proof serving glass and top it with crushed pistachios and rose petals and a rose bud. Serve immediately.

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T&F WINE

LIFE IS TOO SHORT TO DRINK CHEAP WINE A high price tag on a bottle of wine doesn’t always signify quality. There are other factors at play, says Andrew Azzopardi

H

aving supplied some of the richest people on the planet with some of the most expensive wines in the world, I was lucky enough to taste some extraordinarily expensive wines along the way. Drinking some of those wines was such a beautiful experience no description could come close to doing them justice, while others were rather underwhelming. I guess it’s human nature to expect more from very expensive products and wine is no different, but where wine is concerned, price is not always a determinant of quality. That begs the question, what makes some wines so expensive?

Rarity Most expensive wines are produced in very limited quantities and are highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts.

The scarcity of these wines often increases their desirability and drives up their demand and consequently their prices.

While some wineries intentionally limit production to maintain exclusivity and enhance the perceived value of their wines, it is also due to an oft-tiny vineyard with a special terroir and micro-climate that has the potential to produce an extraordinary wine. These plots are planted with the best or oldest vines that produce the finest grapes in the smallest of quantities. The plots are said to be so special, that blending their grapes with grapes from neighbouring plots will only reduce the special qualities of this plot.

A case in point is the tiny production of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti which is a micro, two-hectare vineyard (20,000 square metres) located in Burgundy. It has an ironrich limestone soil on a base of rock and marl, with the vines lying around 240 m (800 ft) above sea level. The average age of these vines is also very old at around 44 years, resulting in only a few bunches of fine, small grapes per vine, each with a little juice that’s worth its proverbial weight in gold. The vineyard produces an average of just 450 cases of wine a year, so you can imagine that getting your hands on just one bottle is already a special affair and the wine is therefore only sold on very tight and strict allocations. The allocations are so strict that if you resell yours, it is said that the vineyard will stop your future allocation of the wine, giving it to someone whom they believe would appreciate it. Already considered one of the rarest wines in the world, the extremely rare bottle of 1945 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti was sold at Sotheby’s auction house at a whopping €520,000 a bottle.

Age Older wines from great vintages are often more expensive than the same wine from younger or lesser vintages, not only due to their rarity but also due to the unique flavours that develop over time. As top-quality wine ages, it undergoes complex chemical reactions that result in desirable

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characteristics such as increased complexity, smoothness, and depth of flavour that is sought after by the discerning palate. Storing a wine for decades is a costly, risky and time-consuming affair and an-important determinant of the current value of the wine. Besides the cost of storage, keeping a wine for several decades before consuming it requires patience. In today’s world of instant gratification, patience is increasingly hard to come-by ability and to wait for that perfect moment in time seems interminable.

The typical drinking potential of a top-quality wine usually increases with age till a certain point. After this peak age is reached the fruit in the wine will slowly start to reduce and the wine will need to be consumed before it loses all the fruit, depth and complex flavours that give the consumer enjoyment. This does not happen overnight, and there is no fixed date or year as to when this will happen, making it is much riskier and complex to find wines over a certain age in the market, thus once again adding to rarity of these wines.

Certain vintages have the ability to age more than others.

These highly-rated and sought-after exceptional vintages will give the collector added peace of mind that the wine will continue to provide enjoyment long after vintages of lesser quality. For example, Bordeaux wines from 2005, 2010 or 2015 would fetch higher prices than the same Bordeaux wine from more difficult vintages like 2007 or 2013. A case in point is a bottle of the exemplary 2015 Chateau Margaux is likely to fetch around three times the price of the 2013 vintage, which is valued at an already rather healthy €400 a bottle.

Quality Wines that have received exceptional ratings from critics or have won prestigious awards tend to command higher prices. Positive reviews from renowned wine experts or recognition from prestigious competitions can significantly increase the perceived value of a wine. Consumers are often willing to pay a premium for wines that are considered exceptional in terms of taste, craftsmanship, and overall quality.

Relating back to the legendary 1982 vintage in Bordeaux, it is also the vintage famous for launching the career of the world’s most successful wine critic, Robert Parker. Parker’s non-stop, exuberant praise of 1982 Bordeaux wine earned him the respect of a new generation of wine lovers that continued for more than four decades. Much like Parker’s predictions, the 1982 vintage was in fact magnificent and continued to evolve into the legendary vintage he expected, which became synonymous with quality and perfection.

The Paris tasting in 1976, also known as the “Judgment of Paris”, famously organised by the late Steven Spurrier, was a historic moment that catapulted Californian wines

The reputation and history of a winery or vineyard can significantly impact the value of its wines.

WINE T&F

to highest echelons of quality. Two blind tastings by some of the most famous critics at the time, put some of the best Californian wines head to head with some of the greatest Bordeaux & Burgundy wines. The resulting winners, the Napa Valley 1973 Stags Leap SLV Cabernet Sauvignon and the Chardonnay Château Montelena from the same vintage became an overnight sensation. Having suddenly received better scores than their rivals such as the 1970 Château Mouton Rothschild or white Puligny Montrachet from the highly acclaimed Domaine Leflaive their prices have soared.

You can find the 1970 Stags Leap at an average price of €17,000 (source Winesearcher.com) and €10,500 for the Château Motelena Chardonnay respectively (sold at this price on wine auction in 2010).

Nine of the top ten most expensive wines in the world all hail from the famous winemaking town of Burgundy

Provenance The reputation and history of a winery or vineyard can significantly impact the value of its wines. Wineries with a long-standing tradition of producing high-quality wines often have a loyal customer base and a strong brand reputation. Wines from renowned regions or vineyards associated with excellence in winemaking can also carry a premium due to their perceived prestige and heritage.

In fact, nine of the top ten most expensive wines in the world according to Winesearcher.com all hail from the famous wine-making town of Burgundy, which has built a reputation of quality and finesse such that even the price of land in this small area has gone off the charts. Purchasing just one hectare (10,000 square meters) of Grand Cru Vineyard in this prestigious area will set you back about 6 million euros and you wouldn’t have even started making the wine yet. On the other hand, Pauillac (Bordeaux) fetches a pricey 2.5 million per hectare but that pales in comparison to Burgundy, while down in Saint Emilion, an average vineyard could cost upwards of half a million euros per hectare.

Reputation is often built over time, such as the legendary wine Pétrus from Pomerol, Bordeaux, which was not an overnight success, but a series of well-timed choices

by Madame Edmond Loubat from as early as 1925. On purchasing the estate, Madame Loubat was immediately focused on quality, hiring some of the best viticulturists of the time and keeping the average age of her vines at 45 years old and practising crop thinning (removing bunches of grapes early on, in order to concentrate on the quality of the remaining bunches) despite the reduction in volumes.

These decisions resulted in wines that were outshining other wines from neighbouring vineyards giving them a reputation of extreme quality.

Other wineries chose to be different from their neighbours and priced their wines much higher than the

regions’ average to show their quality was superior. At a time when Chianti was gaining a bad international reputation, rebels started stepping outside of the DOC regulations and winemakers began experimenting with different grapes and blends in a bid to bring back quality. In search of quality, famous wines from Tuscany, better known as Super-Tuscan wines such as Sassicaia, Masseto, Tignanello or Grattamacco intentionally stopped following the DOC rules of having Sangiovese blended with other local grapes likes Canaiolo.

Labelling their wines as Vino Da Tavola, and receiving high scores from international critics, prices soared and the "Super Tuscan" was born. In fact, of the top 25 most expensive wines in Tuscany, 10 are considered “Super Tuscan” while 11 are from the highly respected Monatalcino (Brunello|) area and only four are from Chianti.

Demand Wines that are in high demand, either due to their quality or exclusivity, can fetch premium prices. Limited-release wines, highly allocated vintages, or bottles from highly regarded winemakers often generate significant interest among collectors and enthusiasts. Of course, without the demand expensive wines would simply not sell and selling prices would have to be reduced.

The interplay between supply and demand dynamics can drive up prices as consumers compete for access to these sought-after wines and this can sometimes be controlled by big companies, consortiums and brand owners.

I think the Bordeaux system is a fascinating and interesting way of how an area gets together to control the supply and demand dynamics to the best of their abilities.

Many of the top Bordeaux estates are increasingly not selling all their wines and intentionally keeping back several cases to resell at a later date. This decision will immediately reduce the number of cases of their wine on the market, thus reducing the supply and rarity of their wine. In a bid to create hype and demand for Bordeaux wines, the Bordelaise invite all the top critics to taste their wines during primeur week.

The region creates incredible hype and fanfare for several weeks slowly allowing a controlled flow of information to the international world. Celebrity visits, vintage ratings, and critic ratings are slowly fed to media keeping the hype for the wines of the area at a high for several weeks before the wines are released and quickly snatched up through allocations.

The remaining cases of wines that are kept back by the Châteaux are then re-released several years later, usually to celebrate decades or anniversaries, at a price that is usually much higher than the original release price.

Andrew Azzopardi is a wine specialist certified by the Wines and Spirit Education Trust.

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T&F PROMOTION

Savour the Season S Vinotheque Bistro, Your Autumn Dining Haven There's nothing quite like the joy of gathering with good company on a crisp autumn day to share a scrumptious meal.

But the quest for that ideal restaurant can be a tad tricky. Many of us long for a place that strikes the perfect balance between laid-back comfort and culinary excellence.

A spot where each dish feels familiar and heart-warming yet capable of surprising our taste buds with creative twists.

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o, if you’re searching for a restaurant that ticks all the above, look no further than Vinotheque Bistro.

Located within the Marina Hotel Corinthia Beach Resort in St Julian's, it's the embodiment of a cosy dining experience that's just right for the season.

Taking inspiration from charming Parisian bistros, Vinotheque offers an instant, warm embrace. As you step inside, you'll be enveloped in rich reds and mustard hues, reminiscent of the autumnal palette. The decor is a delight, featuring an ornate streetlamp in the centre of the restaurant floor and a tranquil bubbling fountain in the background. It's like stepping into a scene from a French film.

Of course, a restaurant's charm must go beyond its décor alone, and Vinotheque shines just as brightly in the culinary department. With a finely curated menu of handpicked dishes, it specialises in a harmonious blend of classic French cuisine and Mediterranean flavours. The small plates are a fantastic prelude to your meal. One highlight is the Gâteaux De Poisson, homemade Mediterranean fish

PROMOTION T&F

cakes served with a roasted red pepper sauce that bursts with irresistible flavour.

Among the pastas and risottos, the Garganelli with Wild Boar Ragout is a true standout. Adorned with dried apricots and brie cheese cream, it’s a flavour symphony that's simply divine. And for a taste of autumnal dreams, try the Risotto of Pumpkin Purée, with artichokes, broad beans, and dried cranberries, and finished with herbs and pumpkin seeds.

It's like a warm, comforting hug on a plate.

For the main courses, Vinotheque Bistro offers a fantastic selection. On a chilly day, the Bouillabaisse is a go-to choice, featuring slow-cooked selected fish and shellfish in a rich seafood liquor. And if you're in the mood for grills, their fillet and rib-eye steaks come with a medley of baked vegetables and fresh sauces. Don't forget to check the chalkboard by the bar, where the kitchen team loves to surprise diners with specials crafted from the freshest ingredients available that week.

The restaurant also boasts a carefully chosen wine collection to suit various tastes and budgets. You can enjoy

wine by the glass or bottle with friends on the charming terrace, indulging in a mouth-watering charcuterie board laden with cheeses, cold cuts, chutneys, and more. The restaurant has even extended the seating area to the hotel’s sea view terrace, commanding breathtaking views of St George’s Bay. It's a lovely setting to unwind and relish the moment.

Over and above the exceptional dining experience, guests enjoy the added perk of complimentary underground parking at the Marina Hotel. Due to its popularity, the restaurant has extended its daily opening hours from midday to 11 pm. Wednesdays and Sundays bring an extra treat with live music entertainment, a perfect accompaniment to your meal.

Don't miss the chance to savour this delightful blend of Mediterranean charm and Parisian style this autumn. Place your reservation by visiting www.vinothequemalta.com

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T&F CUISINE

FOOD, FLAVOUR AND FREEDOM Photo: James Melia Studio

Sumayya Usmani spent the first eight years of her life at sea with her parents when her father was a sea captain. In her food memoir she tells the story of the role food played in her displaced childhood and when she was growing up first in England, and then in Pakistan at the heart of her extended family.

Food photography: Jodi Wilson

“Andaza is my coming-of-age story , a story about how cooking offered strength in times of weakness and ease in times of sadness, and about how trusting my senses in the kitchen helped me to trust my intuition and equipped me with the confidence to navigate life’s challenges. It also explores the hidden world of Pakistani women, based on several generations of my family and what the kitchen means to them.”

Andaza: A Memoir of Food, Flavour and Freedom in the Pakistani Kitchen by Sumayya Usmani (Murdoch Books, £25).

Photography by Jodi Wilson.

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CUISINE T&F

NANI MUMMY’S PRAWN KARAHI

This goes beautifully with bitter lemon, mustard seed and garlic pullao (Taste&Flair note: see the recipe elsewhere in this feature) though it’s equally delicious with sourdough as a quick lunch. Based on my maternal grandmother’s recipe, this is best made with fresh raw prawns, rather than ones that are already cooked.

Taste&Flair note: Carom seeds are the fruit of the ajwain herb. They are slightly green brown in colour and look similar to cumin seeds, but their pungent taste more closely resembles that of thyme.

Preparation and cooking: 25-30 minutes Serves 4 YOU WILL NEED:

2 tablespoons ghee (or 1 tablespoon unsalted butter and 1 tablespoon sunflower oil) 1 heaped teaspoon cumin seeds ½ teaspoon nigella seeds (kalonji) ½ teaspoon carom seeds (ajwain) – optional 1 cm ginger, finely grated 4 large ripe tomatoes, coarsely grated, skins discarded 2 tablespoons concentrated tomato purée (tomato paste) ¼ teaspoon turmeric powder ½ teaspoon Kashmiri chilli powder (or other chilli powder or paprika) salt, to taste 450g shelled, deveined fresh raw prawns TO GARNISH

juice of ½ lemon 2.5cm ginger, cut into fine strips 2 tablespoons chopped coriander (cilantro) leaves 1 green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 1. Place a wok or frying pan over medium-high heat and

add the ghee. When it is hot, add the cumin, nigella and carom seeds (if using) and fry until fragrant, about 1 minute.

2. Next add the ginger and fry for 10–15 seconds,

until fragrant, then stir in the tomatoes. Lower the heat slightly, add a splash of water and keep stirring until it starts to simmer. Add the tomato purée, turmeric, chilli powder and salt.

3. Keep cooking until the sauce thickens and the oil

begins to rise to the surface, about 7–9 minutes. Once this happens, add the prawns and cook, stirring, until the prawns turn pink, about 3–4 minutes. Be careful not to overcook the prawns, or they will go rubbery.

4. Turn the heat off, add the garnishes and cover the pan.

Let the food infuse for a minute or so before serving.

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T&F CUISINE

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CUISINE T&F

BITTER LEMON, MUSTARD SEED AND GARLIC PULLAO A recipe inspired by my Nani’s preserved lemons. The combination of preserved lemon and mustard seeds is reminiscent of my Nani’s Karachi kitchen and the aroma of her gardengrown lemons, resulting in an unusual and unique dish that fuels my nostalgia.

Taste&Flair note: Preserving lemons concentrates their flavour and mellows their acidity and the bitterness of the zest. To make your own preserved lemons, scrub fresh, organic lemons clean and trim off their tips. Slice them in four lengthways, but not all the way through.

The lemon skin at the bottom should still be intact.

Sprinkle the inside of the lemons with salt then put a layer of salt in a sterile storage jar and pack in the lemons. Top them up with freshly squeezed lemon juice and some more salt, seal the jar, and store it in the fridge for three weeks, inverting the jar occasionally.

Preparation and cooking: 30-35 minutes + 30 minutes soaking Serves 6–8 You will need: 4 tablespoons sunflower oil ½ teaspoon black peppercorns 1 cinnamon stick 5–6 cloves 1 tablespoon brown mustard seeds ½ tablespoon coriander seeds 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 5–6 fresh curry leaves 2–3 dried red chillies 1 large red onion, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon finely grated ginger 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons full-fat Greek-style yoghurt salt, to taste 350g basmati rice, rinsed, then soaked in water for at least 30 minutes 1 preserved lemon, sliced into thin rounds

TO GARNISH:

10 mint leaves, thinly sliced 1 handful of unsalted cashew nuts, roasted in a dry frying pan 1. Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan with

a lid over medium heat. When it is hot, add the peppercorns, cinnamon and cloves, along with the mustard, coriander and cumin seeds. Fry until fragrant but not burnt, about 10–15 seconds.

2. Add the curry leaves and chillies –

stand back, as they will pop. Next add the onion and cook until medium brown, stirring often so it browns evenly.

3. Next add the ginger and garlic and cook,

stirring until the raw smell leaves the pan, then add the yoghurt and salt and cook until the yoghurt thickens, about 3–5 minutes.

4. Add the rice to the pan and stir gently until combined. Top with the lemon slices and enough water to just cover the rice – about 150–200 ml, depending on the size of your pan.

5. Turn the heat down to low, cover it and let the pullao cook for 7 minutes, then check to see if the rice has absorbed all the water and is cooked through, with its grains standing on end. If not, give it another few minutes, then check again.

6. If the water runs dry before the rice

is cooked, add a little more water, then cover and cook until rice is done.

7. To serve, gently spoon the rice out onto a platter and top with the mint and cashews.

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T&F CUISINE

POTATOES WITH CURRY LEAVES AND TURMERIC A recipe I created from the need for more uses for a glut of curry leaves, this was inspired by childhood trips to my Dadi’s home. I usually eat this rustic dish with chapattis or parathas.

It is best eaten fresh, with a squeeze of lime juice – either hot or warm, but not reheated.

Taste&Flair note: Chapatti and paratha are unleavened flat breads. Paratha is made from finely ground wholemeal flour and sometimes incorporates egg or ghee. Chapatti is made from wheat flour, ghee and water. Dadi is the way of referring to the paternal grandmother.

Preparation and cooking: 25-30 minutes Serves 4 YOU WILL NEED:

500g small baby potatoes 1 teaspoon turmeric powder ½–1 teaspoon salt, to taste 3 tablespoons sunflower oil ½ teaspoon brown mustard seeds 1 teaspoon cumin seeds ¼ teaspoon nigella seeds (kalonji) 3 dried long red chillies 10–11 fresh curry leaves 3–4 teaspoons full-fat Greek-style yoghurt TO GARNISH:

1 handful of coriander (cilantro) leaves, finely chopped 1 tablespoon chopped dill 1 green finger chilli, chopped – optional, for more heat ½ lime 1. Boil the potatoes until cooked

through, but not overdone and falling apart. Drain well, then toss them with the turmeric and salt.

2. Put the oil into a saucepan and

place over medium heat. When it is hot, add the mustard, cumin, and nigella seeds and stir until they begin to pop. Add the red chillies and stir for a few seconds, then add the fresh curry leaves – stand back, as they will splutter a lot.

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3. Once the curry leaves turn shiny,

add the potatoes and fry until they are coated in all the spices. Lower the heat, then stir the yoghurt into the potatoes and turn off the heat.

4. Sprinkle with the coriander, dill and green chilli (if using), then cover the pan until you’re ready to serve.

CUISINE T&F

TO GARNISH:

1 tablespoon chopped coriander (cilantro) leaves 1 green finger chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 2.5cm ginger, cut into fine strips 1. In a bowl, combine the chicken

pieces with the yoghurt, ginger, garlic, chilli powder and salt. Leave the mixture to marinate in the fridge for at least 1 hour, or as long as overnight.

2. When ready to cook, put the onions into a small blender or food processor with a couple of tablespoons of water and grind them to a paste.

3. Put the saffron into a small bowl

(about the size of a pinch pot) with the ice cube and leave to melt and infuse while you cook – you’ll be adding this saffron-infused water right at the end of the cooking.

4. Heat the ghee or oil in a heavybased saucepan over medium heat.

When it is hot, add the cardamom pods, cinnamon, cloves, peppercorns and bay leaves and let them infuse the ghee. This will only take about 30–40 seconds – keep the spices moving to stop them burning.

MUMMY'S WEDDINGSTYLE CHICKEN KORMA M

ost wedding kormas are oily and one dimensional, but my mother’s version is aromatic and multilayered. It is best served with basmati rice or naan, and a kachumber-style salad of chopped cucumber and tomato. If you can’t find crispy fried onions in your local supermarket or Asian shop, make them yourself by frying three thinly sliced red onions in 100 ml sunflower oil, in batches, then draining them on paper towels.

Taste&Flair note: Korma consists of meat or vegetables braised with yogurt, stock, and spices that form a thick sauce. Kachumber is a salad that consists of chopped onion, tomato, cucumber, and occasionally other vegetables, which is typically seasoned with chilli and coriander. It is normally served as an accompaniment to a main meal. Screwpine extract is an essential oil distilled from the male pandanus flower. It is used in both savoury and sweet dishes.

Marinating time: 1 hour to overnight Preparation and cooking: 55-60 minutes Serves 6–8 YOU WILL NEED:

1 x 1 kg chicken, skinned and cut into 8 pieces, or 8 skinless thighs, on the bone 400g full-fat Greek-style yoghurt, plus 2 tablespoons extra 1 tablespoon finely grated ginger 4 garlic cloves, crushed • 1 ice cube 1½ teaspoons Kashmiri chilli powder 1 teaspoon salt • 2 bay leaves 4 tablespoons ready-made crispy fried onions 1 large pinch of saffron threads 3 tablespoons ghee or sunflower oil 4–6 green cardamom pods, bruised 1 cinnamon stick • 5 cloves 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, roasted in a dry frying pan and ground 1 teaspoon coriander seeds, roasted in a dry frying pan and ground ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg 2–3 drops screwpine extract (kewra) – optional

5. Quickly, so the spices don’t catch, add the onion paste and 4 tablespoons of water. Cook until the water has evaporated and the paste is shiny and thick.

6. Add the chicken with its marinade

and stir well. Turn the heat up to high and cook, stirring, until the yoghurt thickens and dries up, then add some more water (about 5 tablespoons or so), cover and cook for about 20 minutes. Keep an eye on it: if it gets too dry, you might need to give it a stir and add a little more water.

7. Next add the ground cumin and

coriander, turn the heat up to high, and fry, stirring, until the oil rises to the surface. Stir in the saffron water, nutmeg and screwpine extract (if using), then cook over low heat, uncovered, for a minute or so.

8. To finish, turn off the heat and immediately add the extra yoghurt, but don’t stir it through. Garnish with the coriander, green chilli and ginger, then serve immediately.

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T&F INTERIORS

“The home should be the treasure chest of living” L E CO R B U S I E R

The building’s sensitivity to context and visual connection to its immediate environment is what first attracted the home owners. They set the terrace decking and indoor floor at the same level so when the doors are flung back, the boundary between indoor and outdoor areas disappears.

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INTERIORS T&F

greenhouse THE

Beautiful design is a way of life in this airy and light-filled family home

Project: Greenhouse Design team: Patricia & Steven Risiott, A Collective Photographer: Ramon Portelli

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T&F INTERIORS

The neutral tone of the kitchen cabinets acts as a foil for the warm walnut wood of the breakfast bar. Both the kitchen and breakfast bar are bespoke, designed by the home's owners, partners in A Collective.

Pairing the Atlantic Grey quartzite countertops and backsplash with walnut cabinets creates an elegant and timeless kitchen design, while adding textural variation. The smooth polished quartzite supplied

by Reuben Lautier’s The Natural Stone Workshop creates a more airy and open feeling, adding depth, drama and contrast to the concrete ceiling finish.

Designed by Daniel Rybakken in 2014, Luceplan's now iconic Compendium suspension pendant task light, from GLOW Projects, is a central focus to the open kitchen/living area. This elegant lamp spreads an ample quantity of light on surfaces.

It is versatile, for direct downward or indirect upward lighting, which is adjusted by rotating the reflector at the time of installation.

W

hen Steven and Patty Risiott were looking for a place to set up home, they weren’t thinking of moving into a flat. “We were looking for a house, but what we found was not in the right areas for us,” says Steven says. What they stumbled upon was an apartment building in Steven’s family neighbourhood, then a work-in-progress designed by the couple’s friends, Sandro and Peter Valentino, of the eponymous firm, Valentino Architects.

Partners in life and in their own Architecture firm, A Collective, Steven and Patty could see its potential as their future home.

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T&F INTERIORS

T

he apartment building is on a corner of a tree-lined stretch, opposite an iconic modernist villa which became a reference point for its design, inspiring its massing, volume and proportions. The building is now itself iconic, recognisable by its stark white exterior that echoes the 1930s Bauhaus buildings in Tel Aviv’s White City area.

The south-facing apartment building is designed to maximise usable space and to blur the boundaries between indoor and outdoor areas. Large glass doors and windows flanked by deeply recessed terraces wrap around the expansive living area at the curved front part of the building, drawing in natural light and framing a view of the surrounding treetops and the inspirational modernist building across the street.

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The ceilings have been left in exposed concrete imprinted with the grain of the timber planks that supported its construction, maximiising the generous height of the interior.

INTERIORS T&F

The interior is fitted out with a mix of the architect-owners’ bespoke designs and other pieces they have collected over the years, organically shaping their home as a reflection of their own personalities and taste. Light fittings by Glow Projects are an integral part of the interior design.

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Around the perimeter of the living space, a gypsum bulkhead masks the infrastructure and softens the sharp angles, leaving the rest of the ceiling exposed. In one corner, the wall is painted a deep green, defining the lounge area and complementing the ribbed TV unit, a bespoke design by A Collective.

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hen the doors are flung back, the boundary between the indoor and outdoor space dissolves, bringing the outside in. It was this sensitivity to context and visual connection to the immediate environment that appealed to Patty and Steven. They took on one of the apartments while the building was still under construction and customised the interior architecture and design to fit their personal style and vision, dovetailing their efforts with Valentino Architects’ as the building works progressed.

The couple are meticulous when designing and managing their clients’ projects, detailing plans before they are executed on site but their busy practice meant that their own home project had to fit around their other professional commissions, slotting into weekends and odd hours after a day at work and prompting a few spontaneous site decisions. Fortunately, their shared taste and vision carried them through, with only the occasional hitch.

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he shape of the living space is unconventional, widening out from the curved front end to the full width of the building. From the wider end, the living area gives way to the private space where bedrooms and utility rooms fan out towards a courtyard at the rear. The generous height of the interior is enhanced by internal door openings that run all the way up to the ceilings and pocket doors that slide neatly out of sight, giving the space a sense of fluidity and openness.

Gypsum ceilings have been largely foregone in favour of exposed concrete imprinted with the grain of the timber planks that supported its construction They only make an appearance in the internal corridor, where the gypsum layer serves the functional purpose of masking infrastructural services, and around the perimeter of the living area where it hides the curtain rails and softens sharp angles.

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The neutral colour palette carries through to the master bedroom. Walnut parquet flooring creates a warm feel and the Pianca ‘Spillo’ bed from Onepercent complements the look.

Residual materials from the bespoke wardrobe have been fashioned into the bedside tables designed by A Collective.

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In the children’s bathroom, a bright yellow radiator and inset shelving add a fun note to the otherwise light neutral tones. In the master bedroom, an all-black ensuite shower room creates a cocooning effect. The vanity unit and mirror are bespoke designs by A Collective.

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he internal floor in terrazzo, cast on site and levelled to meet the terrace deck, has a calming appearance, blending into a visually undemanding palette that provides a neutral backdrop for colour and texture accents: bespoke furniture designed by the couple, artefacts and accessories they collected on their travels, and their copious collection of plants that fills their home’s terraces and the interior. The same design elements flow from the public to the private areas, the transition marked by a shift from terrazzo to parquet flooring: walnut in the master bedroom and oak in the children’s rooms.

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A vintage telephone chair, from the days when telephones were bound to the wall, has been reclaimed and upcycled into a unusual corner seat.

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he furniture is a mix of the architect-owners’ bespoke designs and pieces they have collected over the years, organically shaping their home as a reflection of their own personalities and taste. Bathroom furniture, the kitchen and breakfast bench, doors and wardrobes, the TV unit – customised pieces fashioned from walnut wood, ribbed black MDF and quartzite – are all their own designs, detailed to serve a purpose that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing. This truly is a home where beautiful design is a way of life.

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LIVE STYLE Make your space feel like home with timeless Danish furniture. Discover effortlessly elegant furniture designed for spaces of all shapes and sizes. Our design experts are ready to help you.

LIVE EKSTRAORDINÆR IN ST O R E A ND AT B O C O N C E P T.C O M .M T T R I Q TA L -B AL AL , SAN G WANN | TEL: 2095 9595

T&F TRANSFORMATION

R E V I TA L I S I N

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G VA L L E T TA A seventeenth century townhouse rehabilitated for multiple residential use Architecture and design team: Alejandra Dos Ramos, Rory Apap Brown, Danica Mifsud, AP Valletta Photography: Julian Vassallo

THIS TRANSFORMATION DEMONSTRATES THE SUCCESSFUL INTEGRATION OF HISTORICAL PRESERVATION, MODERN FUNCTIONALITY, AND COMMUNAL HARMONY.

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he rebirth of Valletta as an elegant residential city, once a remote dream, has slowly but steadily been realised over recent years as grand stone palazzi and historic family homes that had fallen into a state of disrepair have been brought back to life, sweeping away the general air of neglect that had become so pervasive that it seemed irreversible.

Up in the south-west corner of Valletta, a transformation has taken place at Four, Sappers Street.

Historically, the building forms part of the sixteenth century enceinte and overlooks the entrance to Marsamxett Harbour. The residential block was originally a family house where the

eminent Maltese lawyer and map collector Albert Ganado was born. “Its original seventeenth century fabric had been considerably tampered with in the nineteenth century,” says Konrad Buhagiar, executive director of AP Valletta. “More recently, parts of the building were abandoned for decades, so the building’s state of disrepair was serious.”

Led by AP Valletta’s resident Interior Architecture Director Rory Apap Brown, the design of Four Sappers Street has been developed as a fully-comprehensive project which thoughtfully considered and was inspired by the interior, exterior and landscape aspects of the site in tandem.

AP VALLETTA

The rehabilitation project included the formation of a public piazza which introduced lush vegetation to its surroundings.

At Four Sappers Street, AP Valletta has consolidated over thirty years of experience as a leading multi-disciplinary design practice. The challenging configuration of original spaces and historical aspects required sensitive site intervention, something which the practice maintained from the initial stages through to the project’s completion. AP Valletta’s insistence on transforming Four Sappers Street into a mixed-use development is a testament to the practice’s dedication to holistic sustainability. Noting that mixed-use buildings are relatively rare in Malta, AP Valletta saw Four Sappers Street as an opportunity to create a unique hub dedicated to the cultivation of new ideas. As a result, the cluster is designed to be fully integrated in its surrounding urban and historical context in Valletta.

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he design brief for the residential part of the building consisted of rehabilitating the townhouse in line with its original residential use, while extending it and dividing it into different units offering all the comforts of contemporary living. The project included the regeneration and the greening of a small pocket of public space right in front of the entrance of the residences – in line with the guiding principles of a truly holistic and sustainable approach to Malta’s heritage.

Redeveloping this mixed-use building in Valletta posed a myriad of intricate challenges. The task involved the reorganisation of spaces in accordance with the client's vision, necessitating the adaptation of a series of pre-existing structures.

Despite the drastic redesign of the interior spaces, AP Valletta has managed to retain the historical essence of the building

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“Harmonising these new uses with contemporary requirements such as disabled accessibility, health and safety regulations, and benchmarks for both workspaces and residential units proved to be an intricate puzzle,” says Rory Apap Brown. “Compounding the complexity was the building's historical location within Valletta, requiring a delicate balance between innovation and preservation. Seamless collaboration and liaison with the Superintendence of Cultural Heritage was essential for the realisation of this project.”

The most innovative aspect of this residential redevelopment is perhaps the way it was conceived as part of a larger and more ambitious regeneration project, Four Sappers, which aims to revitalise this part of Valletta. The entire block, comprising offices and residences with a potential new commercial space at ground floor, was re-organised around a new central courtyard, optimising the building’s design.

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he building is one of the few in the area to retain its original aspect, most of the surrounding area having been redeveloped in the eclectic style typical of the second half of the nineteenth century,” says Konrad Buhagiar.

“As a result, it was of the utmost importance that we treat the façade in a sensitive manner. This proved quite challenging.”

The masonry structure required the replacement of several deteriorated stone blocks to reintroduce the structural integrity of the building envelope and the visual legibility of the decorative elements. Other restoration interventions were aimed at preserving all elements of the building’s original façade: timber apertures and wrought iron works, such as railings and fanlights, for example, were replaced with new elements following their original design when restoration was not technically possible. In a similar way, interior interventions aimed to highlight original features that are typical of Maltese townhouses such as arches, stone decorative elements and the English-style staircase.

The elegant combination of materials such as wood, travertine and concrete enhance the quality and lightness of the space

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he interior spaces have been almost entirely reconfigured to accommodate the design brief as a residential block. The new five residential units are split by floor: from the ground floor maisonette, to the penthouse overlooking Marsamxett Harbour. Despite the drastic redesign of the interior spaces, AP Valletta has managed to retain the historical essence of the building. The central courtyard is a key element of the design, bringing natural light in, and developed as a communal yet private area, harmonising the elements of solid and void. Openness and transparency characterise both the working and the recreational areas.

Four Sapper Street’s colour scheme – seen throughout the apartments and office spaces – was similarly designed in a timeless fashion.

Creams and light colours dominate the interior, particularly in the penthouse apartment, which pays homage to Valletta's predominantly limestone cityscape. “The elegant combination of authentic materials such as wood, travertine and concrete enhance the quality and lightness of the space,” says Alejandra Dos Ramos, architect, part of the team that lead on the residential project. Externally, AP Valletta employed different colours to distinguish between the office and residential areas of the building, opting for grey and greenish grey respectively.

At street level, the practice also introduced lush greenery to enhance the local public realm.

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Parts of the building were abandoned for decades, so the building’s state of disrepair was serious

Equipped with state-of-the-art amenities – such as a centralised air-conditioning system, key access control for the main entrance, CCTV, fire and alarm systems, which are all standard expectations in today’s market – the interior of both the office and residential spaces were re-designed with twentieth century sensibilities and uses in mind. Bespoke furniture was also commissioned for the AP Valletta-designed spaces.

“As the lead designer, responsible for the completion of this project, incorporating the restoration and rehabilitation of the existing building into offices and residential apartments, I am very satisfied with the outcome,” says Rory Apap Brown. “Our main objectives were to create a space that would serve its users effectively, while embracing sustainable practices and setting an example for adaptive reuse. The successful realisation of these goals brings a sense of pride and accomplishment.

“One particularly rewarding result is the formation of public piazza, which has not only enhanced the project but also positively impacted the community of Valletta by introducing lush vegetation to its surroundings.

Witnessing how the project benefits not only its immediate users but also the broader community reinforces the significance of thoughtful design and responsible development practices.

This transformation demonstrates the successful integration of historical preservation, modern functionality, and communal harmony.”

Creams and light colours dominate the interior, particularly in the penthouse apartment.

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T&F EXHIBITION

FROĠA/FARRAGO

“Sadly there are no donkeys in this exhibition. We are mindlessly running towards a future where there may no longer be any, ever, anywhere.” - Sebastian Tanti Burlò

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roġa/Farrago, Sebastian Tanti Burló̀’s latest solo exhibition, presents a collection of oil paintings that build on Burló̀’s expanding conversation with his perceived surroundings. The varying themes and aesthetics take us across his experiences living between Siġġiewi, Florence, and London.

The farrago of paintings represent different parts of those experiences, divided into series of works titled: Growing Gardens, Melitesia Mgħaffġa, Probable Headlines, and The Beheading of St.John (redux). The series lays bare Burló̀’s distinct preoccupations and pleasures, unified through his flair for the absurd, his satirical strokes, and underlying subversive narrative.

Known for his political cartoons published in the Times of Malta, in Froġa/ Farrago Burló̀ swaps his pen for the brush, retaining his unapologetic social commentary. The saturated colours of the Mediterranean are ever present in his palette, evidence of his enduring connection to the island he loves. On this occasion, Burló̀ widens his commentary to global preoccupation, touching on the impending environmental catastrophe and the regression of democracy to the far-right. The works in this show are a tragicomedy between the romanticised memory of the island he was born to, and what society has become.

Yet, beneath these bleak preoccupations, there exists beauty - in the gardens and countryside where Burló̀ grew up and spends most of his free time. In the joy of friendships grown through childhood adventures up trees, and the long summer meals and prolonged winter walks relished with friends and family.

The items and settings depicted throughout the paintings are those closest to the artist. They represent totems to humanity’s incredible progression and the fragility with which it may all regress.

Of his exhibition the artist says it is “a farrago of themes that have brought me joy or worry over the past few years. Nature, journalism, post-truth, climate change, society, all represented through oil painting. That’s it, no flowery statement. The flowers are in the paintings. Sadly there are no donkeys...”

Opposite page: Daphne’s Garden Nº3 Above left: Siġġiewi Garden Nº1 Above right: Probable Headlines Nº3

Froġa/Farrago launches at 18:00 hours on 12th October 2023 at R Gallery in Sliema. The exhibition will be open until 11th November 2023.

R Gallery is at 26, Tigne Street, Sliema

About R Gallery

R Gallery is a contemporary art space located in the heart of Sliema. Originally built as a British military hostel at the turn of the 20th century, the art nouveau edifice has been transformed from a place of sanctuary for soldiers into a spacious host for bold contemporary art.

Since September 2022, R Gallery has been a hub for cultural activities and exhibitions. Seb Tanti Burlò’s Froġa / Farrago is R Gallery’s 8th exhibition.

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T&F TRENDS

A new interpretation of a classic, the Lund cabinet is a contemporary yet timeless storage solution with a light, airy and personal expression.

Designed by Morten Georgsen, this elegant design allows you to showcase your favourite books, ornaments or more in an organised and exclusive manner. Lund comes in dark oak veneer, or natural oak veneer.

View it at the BoConcept showroom, in Triq talBalal, San Gwann.

It's time to get winter-ready!

Carpets not only make a room look warm and cosy, but also express your style through colour, pattern and material.

Customise your carpet to any size, colour and finish.

Large selection available from Satariano, Valley Road, Msida. Tel. 2149 2149

Stylish and Versatile Mario bed by Furninova is a bold bed frame with wings enveloping the bed on both sides of the headboard. The soft, quilted upholstery is available in a varied range of fabrics. Let the upholstery you choose make it classical, contemporary or even edgier to suit your bedroom s style. Available exclusively from Satariano, Msida Valley Road, Birkirkara.

Tel. 2149 2149

Luceplan's Levante, designed Marco Spatti, is a chandelier of great emotional impact. Ideal for living areas in the home, but also for contract applications. The size is impressive, yet the overall image is ethereal, like an organism floating in space. Levante stems from the intersection of three large fans spreading light uniformly over surfaces. The thickness of the veils is minimal, attached with magnets to the central core that contains the light source, hidden as if it were an organic, beating heart. Exclusively available from GLOW Projects, Marina Street, Pieta. www.glow.com.mt

Klimaflo, located in Swatar, is widely recognised for its exceptional professionalism in providing both heating and cooling solutions. Specialising in heating systems like central heating, underfloor heating, and sanitary hot water, as well as air conditioning systems for residential and commercial properties, Klimaflo has successfully managed some of the most prestigious projects in Malta.

Klimaflo, 1, Tower Street, Swatar, Birkirkara. Tel. +356 2137 6968 Facebook/Instagram @Kliamflo.

Cosy yet functional to your needs!

Whatever your style - classical, minimal, modern, eclectic or bold - Satariano can help you design a bedroom that makes you truly feel at peace. Novamobili bedroom collections are designed to offer solutions to suit you, your clothes and your space. Available exclusively from Satariano, Msida Valley Road, Birkirkara.

Tel. 2149 2149

Meridiana ASTARTE DOK Made exclusively from Maltagrown Vermentino grapes, Meridiana’s ASTARTE DOK has a straw-yellow colour and is characterised by intense aromas of tropical and citrus fruit with hints of flowers.

Its palate is fresh with a pleasantly acidic finish.

Distributed by S Rausi Trading Ltd, Gzira, T. 2133 0447, M. 7909 3197, info@srausi.com www.meridiana.com.mt

Sunday Buffet Lunch at Marina Hotel. Family dining just got an exciting uplift this autumn. Marina Hotel Corinthia Beach Resort in St Julian’s has unveiled a familyfriendly Sunday buffet lunch like no other. Served between 1 and 3pm in the bright and airy Bayview restaurant, the experience promises diners scrumptious food, a welcoming atmosphere, and top-notch service and live entertainment.

Free parking in the covered Marina Hotel carpark available.

For more information visit mariahotel.com.mt

The next issue will be out in November 2023 with The Malta Independent on Sunday.

For advertising, contact Sean Ellul on +356 7921 0705 • sellul@independent.com.mt

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