€3 WHERE SOLD VAMP MAGAZINE APR / MAY – 2018
ISSUE
#33
“ Your mind is a garden, your thoughts are the seeds. you can grow flowers or you can grow weeds. ” S / S _ 2018
VAMP team put together spring’s hottest looks, with plenty of print and lots more colour.
PICASSO’S
PURPLE RAIN L O N D O N ’ S L AT E S T PICASSO EXHIBITIONAND SOME OF THE OTHER EUROPEAN L O C AT I O N S SHOWCASING HIS WORK THIS YEAR, INCLUDING M A LTA .
An apartment dwelling characterised by its spaciousness, an array of textures, and a unique combination of Ukrainian and Japanese aesthetics.
OPINION: What it takes to be an artist EVENTS: International & Maltese exhibition & art fairs ART NEWS: Ghana’s art scene is going places ART MARKET: Private highlights & reviews FILM: The latest arty gems in the cinema collection of Piero Guccione & Victor Pasmore ARCHITECTURE: The history of museums – buildings worthy of housing art BOOKS: Three permanent bed-side companions
# L O V E S A RT O A L B E R TA F E R R E T T I , D O LC E & G A B B A N A , B U R B E R R Y, D S Q UA R E D 2
S T E L L A M c C A R T N E Y, VA L E N T I N O
#LOVESARTO RO SS S T R E E T, S T JUL I A N ’ S T: 2 202 1 6 01 W: SAR TO.COM . M T
carlagrima.com
carlagrima
SPR ING SU M MER 2 018
Principles
Only
Faith Only
Only Principles
Faith
Faith
Red herring
The Point Shopping Mall, Tignè
Main Street Shopping Complex, Paola
/DebenhamsMalta
Jack & Jones
Star by Julien Macdonald
Star by Julien Macdonald
Jack & Jones Faith
The Collection Selected Dune
Dune
Dune
WOMENSWEAR
•
MENSWEAR
•
KIDSWEAR
•
BAGS & SHOES
•
LINGERIE
•
HOME
•
BEAUT Y
Cover Credits: Photography: Matthew Spiteri Model: Marysia Make Up: Amanda Greaves using Flormar Hair: Alex Lapira Styling: Carla Grima
I
n this issue we discover a whole lot of colour! With the Mediterranean sun finally shining, we got a little over inspired with the vast amount of shades blossoming around us. Here’s what makes this issue just a little brighter than others… Surrealist photographer Lara Zankoul adorns our interview pages with beautifully balanced fashion/architectural photographs in contrasting pastels. Our contributing stylist, Martina Zammit Maempel, lays
Editorial VAMP Editorial Team Creative Director Chris Psaila Contributing Editor Carla Grima Photographers Matthew B Spiteri Sean Mallia
012 THE HUED ISSUE
Stylist Carla Grima Martina Zammit Memple Sales Manager Sam Psaila 7788 0300 Sales Keeley Bajada 9996 0446
down spring’s fashion trends in our April Fashion Shoot, shot in the back streets of Malta’s Crafts Village, while Mizzi Studio collaborates on a design project inspired by the kaleidoscope of colours that characterises India’s Holi Festival. Another highlight is our discovery of the mesmerising architecture of Sergey Makhno, who introduced us to his perfectly balanced Wabi Sabi apartment. Emma Calascione explores this year’s phenomenal, travelling Picasso exhibitions and how our little island has been included within 2018’s focus on the iconic artist.
Contributors Alina Anisimova Tamara Fenech Emma Calascione Julian Cardona Amanda Greaves Alex Lapira Natalie Vella Rob Golfeo Mari Gnube Lara Zankoul Sergey Makhno
Stefan Hogan Mark Mc Bride
This magazine is published by [ V ] Publications also publishers of Served Magazine + / The Malta Artpaper
Many interesting art and culture articles fill this April issue, such as some inside information on Berlin’s thrift shopping scene and a history of slogan t-shirts. We won’t give it all away before you get started, but what we can say is that this issue was definitely a tough one to fit into just 128 pages. Enjoy reading this while chilling out in the spring sunshine, while basking in the effects of some spectacular colours...and loads more! Until next month...
Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher is prohibited. All rights reserved. Dates, information and prices are believed to be correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change and no responsibility is accepted for any errors or omissions. Neither the editor nor the publisher accept responsibility for any material submitted, whether photographic or otherwise. While we endeavour to ensure that the organisations and firms mentioned are reputable. The editor can give no guarantee that they will fulfill their obligations under all circumstances.Copyright 2018 facebook.com/ vampmagazine malta
33
019. STYLE FILE_S/S ‘18
A profusion of print in our top April picks.
028. T-SHIRT POLITICS
Alina Anisimova looks into the history of slogan t-shirts and how they have resurfaced within urban street style.
034. WORN WISE
VAMP team put together spring’s hottest looks, filling our April shoot with plenty of print and lots more colour.
044. INTERVIEW
Lara Zankoul tells VAMP about her journey within the photography industry… and describes some of her best concepts too.
052. PICASSO’S PURPLE RAIN
Emma Calascione talks us through London’s latest Picasso exhibition and some of the other European locations showcasing his work this year, including Malta.
062. EAST MEETS WEST
Mizzi Studios tell us about their incredible collaboration with fashion designer Saloni Lodha during India’s Holi celebration.
066. A LIFE WORTH THRIFTING
Tammy Fenech discovers the rising trend of thrift shopping in Berlin.
071. LIVING STYLE
Hot changes within your spring interiors.
073. ARCHITECTURE: WABI SABI
Architect Sergey Makhno takes us through his breathtaking Wabi Sabi project.
082. FACEBOOK + OTHER DRUGS
How social media may be impacting our mental health.
085. DREAMING OF MOROCCO
VAMP takes a dreamy look into the perfect Moroccan getaway..
092. IN FULL BLOOM
Corinthia Palace’s latest work of culinary art.
098. THE RICH HISTORY OF CAMPARI The story of one of our favourite, distinctive drinks, Campari.
103. TROPICAL DAZE
Carla Grima picks out your spring wardrobe for less, at Marks & Spencer.
112. MASK MAGIC
The best face masks and serums from the comfort of your home.
117. POLISHED PERFECT
All the top beauty brands to get on the good foot this season
125. LOVING LILAC
Nailing the hottest eyeshadow shade, by The MDRN Classic.
THE HUED ISSUE 013
UPDATE
HUED ISSUE ‘18
UPDATE. CISK LAGER Cisk Lager beer is a golden-coloured, bottom-fermented lager with a distinctive and well-balanced character. Its rich hop aroma and pleasant bitterness, combined with a mild astringency, make it an outstanding thirst-quencher. Alcohol content is 4.2%. Today Cisk Lager beer has developed and progressed considerably since its launch in 1929 and the range also includes: Cisk Excel, a low carbohydrate beer; Cisk Chill, a Lemon, Berry or Ginger & Lime flavoured lager; Cisk Pilsner, a premium pilsner with an alcohol content of 5.5%; Cisk Export Premium Lager, a smooth, well balanced and exceptional beer with 5% alcohol content; and Cisk Strong, an outstanding extra-strong premium lager with a 9% alcohol content.
THE AUDI Q2. THIS ISN’T JUST ANOTHER SUV. The Audi Q2 Sport 1.6 TDI is now even more affordable! Save up to €4,000 on this fabulous model! Now starting from €32,000. Hurry while stocks last! The Audi Q2 is whatever you want it to be. We call it ‘#untaggable’. Available from Continental Cars Ltd., Ta’ Xbiex. Call on 2347 6360 for further information.
EXHIBITION: JULIEN VINET AIR OPTIX PLUS HYDRAGLYDE® Contact lenses with Alcon’s SmartShield® Technology prevent deposits or protein build-ups on the lens surface. The result is clear, comfortable vision that ensures your eyes stay irritation-free all day long. Made from super-soft Lotrafilcon B, these lenses offer a secure fit, staying stable while worn and providing consistently perfect sight. For enquiries: www.eyewear.com.mt/alcon, 2381 1400, info@classoptical.com
French artist Julien Vinet is moving from Malta to Berlin, but, before he does he is exhibiting all paintings from his studio at Lily Agius Gallery until the 24th of May. Works include japanese ink drawings on nautical maps, canvas and glue, and the first design for a collection of wallpapers. For more information contact Lily Agius Gallery on +356.99292488 or email info@lilyagiusgallery.com. Open 9.30-1.30pm Tuesday Saturday and by appointment. www.lilyagiusgallery.com
APPLICATIONS FOR THE THIRD EDITION OF THE SOCIAL IMPACT AWARDS ARE STILL OPEN Once again The Gasan Foundation together with Inspirasia Foundation are collaborating to launch the third edition of the Social Impact Awards. Providing an opportunity to create serious and positive social change in Malta, these awards have already raised almost a quarter of a million euros over the past two years. Following this success, these awards are providing a platform for change-making ideas and an opportunity to receive financial and non-financial support to bring these ideas to fruition. The awards recognise non-profit organisations, social enterprises and individuals who submit innovative, social projects that can have a sustainable, positive impact and scalable change for Malta. Closing date for applications is 11th May. For more information please email info@siamalta.org
014 THE HUED ISSUE
UPDATE
OKAÏDI
ALL NEW RENAULT CAPTUR Europe’s best-selling crossover, now reinvented to feature more distinctive styling and advanced technologies. With new exterior two-tone colour options - Ivory, Ocean Blue, Cappuccino, Red and Atacama Orange - the Captur now has 30 potential exterior colour combinations. Personalise it further with four different alloy wheel possibilities, and six interior colour choices.Prices start from €17,100. Available at Kind’s Showroom, Lija.
When it comes to children, Okaïdi has the best, most comfortable and lightweight shoes… easy for running around in. Children look and feel great in this excellent quality footwear. Okaïdi offers a variety with its wide selection of stylish shoes, sandals and sports shoes. Flip-flops are also included in the range, perfect to combine with swimwear.There are also baby, infant and toddler shoes. These include walking shoes that are designed for those tiny feet, still learning to walk. Okaïdi shoes are specifically designed for the child’s everyday comfort and wellbeing. OKAÏDI. The Plaza (level one), Sliema, Tel: 2131 1820. Constitution Street, Mosta, Tel: 2142 3076
BOSS COLLABORATE WITH FOOTBALL PLAYER TONI KROOS
A MULTI-MILLION-EURO REFURBISHMENT Vivendo Group refurbished the presidential suits at the Suncrest Hotel, after the great service provided with the furnishing of other floors. Each room was fitted with Calligaris Furniture, doors with fire-retardant certifications, soft bedding, as well as parquet wall cladding. The result is a warm ambience and a charming décor.
ISSUE 3 – OUT SOON. Bringing together Malta and the world though art. Created for and by those who understand that art can better the world, artpaper is supported by various academics, professionals, and companies in Malta and abroad, and aims to be a source of inspiration, discussion, and information. Don’t Miss It!
016 THE HUED ISSUE
HUGO BOSS is teaming up with professional German football player Toni Kroos. The international player will also represent the BOSS brand beyond the world of sports at events, public appearances and campaigns. “We already know Toni through our collaboration with the German national team and with Real Madrid F.C. and we hold him in high esteem. Therefore, we are very pleased to be able to welcome him on board as one of our brand ambassadors”, states HUGO BOSS CEO Mark Langer. As a player, Toni Kroos is characterised by his precision, his focus, and his passion. He is a strategist who can turn any game around with a decisive pass. Above all, his willpower makes him a vital member of the team. Whether he is playing for the German national team or internationally for the recordbreaking Spanish club Real Madrid, Toni Kroos has repeatedly proven himself by consistently playing to an excellent standard. “HUGO BOSS has been a part of my professional career for many years, at first during my time at FC Bayern, followed by the national team, and now with Real Madrid F.C. I am a huge fan of BOSS because I know the brand and the people behind it very well”, says Toni Kroos.
Discover our complete
Crossover Range Unbeatable comfort, style, safety and fuel efficiency at unbeatable prices. Come for a test drive!
ALL NEW KOLEOS
Starting from €36,200
Models shown for demonstration purposes only.
Renault SCENIC
Renault KADJAR
Renault CAPTUR
€24,000*
€23,800*
€16,300*
Starting from
Starting from
* Price is inclusive of Scrappage Scheme. T&Cs apply. 5 year service plan is available on all models.
Mosta Road, Lija LJA 9011, Malta. Tel: 23311126 / 23311131 Mgarr Road, Xewkija XWK 9012, Gozo. Tel: 21550962 Email: sales@autosales.com.mt
Kind’s
www.autosales.com.mt
Starting from
UPDATE
GENKI ASIAN CAFÉ The expedition from East to South East Asia takes place at GENKI Asian Café, with a selection of salads, soups, rice and noodle bowls, to be followed by the most exquisite sushi platters passionately prepared by the selectively enthusiastic young chefs. If you’re not in the mood for sushi your curiosity and taste can definitely be satisfied from the list of heart-melting mains created and groomed by the kitchen’s talented team. The fulfilling experience begins and ends with the warm smile of the front-ofhouse crew inspired by their doting leader, who ensures that the patrons are tended to until their palate is content. 21, Ta’ Xbiex Seafront Msida
NOOS With the name sitting elegantly at the centre of its glass façade, NOOS charmingly attracts shoppers from all walks of life who cannot but fall in love not only with the layout and décor of the store, but more so with the latest, trending collections and varied styles befitting the pockets of all. The family visit to Noos starts from the basement, to find outfits for the four-year-old girl and boy, continues with the cool teenager and her mother earnestly exploring every piece at the store’s entrance level, and ends at the top floor where the classy father together with the modest gentleman nearing his pension leave with a selection of new clothing. It’s a fashion destination with picks for everyone. Tower Road, Sliema, Malta
MEDASIA PLAYA A place where you can relax, eat, chill, drink, swim, dine and have fun! The venue combines elements of music, dining, entertainment and art, all in one.
SPRING SUNDAYS Every Sunday at MedAsia Playa. Top local DJs will feature over five Sunday sessions for the best funky tunes, cocktails and vibes by the sea. Entrance is free. MedAsia Playa, Qui Si Sana Seafront, Sliema. Tel: 21323126
018 THE HUED ISSUE
ONE MILLION LUCKY EAU DE TOILETTE A pulsating and captivating scent of woody and gourmand tones. This is a fresh, vivid and sensual fragrance. Hazelnut note enriches the composition of woody elements, with fresh ozone combined with Greengage Plum. Tremble, share and dare, without limits. Live every moment without delay. Exclusively available at Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery Ltd. Tel: 2133 1553
TAKE THE OFFICE ANYWHERE
SMARTER STORAGE
CONNECTIVITY ON THE MOVE
INTRODUCING THE NEW XC40 – CAR OF THE YEAR 2018 Today’s drivers understand the need for innovation & connectivity on the go. So we created a compact SUV that is just as progressive as they are. Named European Car of the Year 2018 at the Geneva Motor Show, our new XC40 features pioneering smart storage solutions and connected services that will make life on the fly as flexible as you are. VOLVO XC40 D3 AUTOMATIC STARTING FROM €36,600
GasanZammit Motors Ltd., Mriehel Bypass, Mriehel BKR3000 Tel: 27788225 email: volvo@gasanzammit.com
www.volvocars.com.mt
UPDATE
THE NEW BMX X2 LAUNCH
B M W L A U N C H E D T H E I R L AT E S T V E N T U R E O F G L A M O R O U S C R O S S O V E R S P O R T S V E H I C L E S AT I N F I N I T Y B Y H U G O ’ S LAST MONTH.
The all new X2 range was unveiled to a private gathering of almost 250 people at one of Malta’s most stunning venues. Guests were treated to a glimpse of a metallic gold model, which was placed on the iconic infinity pool of this venue, along with another version in white which allowed the public to enjoy a first-hand view of the interior too. BMW representatives were on hand to show off the car’s most notable features such as its sleek and aerodynamic body, striking new alloy designs, newly-inset double tail pipes and a redesigned double kidney grille. Other features include continuous wheel arches, lightly shaded side skirts and a panoramic glass roof.
Guests were also greeted with a complimentary glass of Moët et Chandon, served with an array of Hugo’s lavish finger food while enjoying the luxury of an open bar. Infinity by Hugo’s, the brainchild of local entrepreneur Hugo Chetcuti, is set atop H Hotel and overlooks the sandy beach and clear blue waters of St. George’s Bay in St. Julians. It boasts an open-air 65-foot infinity pool surrounded by a large sundeck and jacuzzis. Located underneath a retractable roof, there is also a cocktail bar overlooking exclusive VIP sofas and a DJ booth. The Dom Perignon Champagne Bar is another beautiful feature of this ultralucrative venue.
For further information, send an email to marketing@hugosmalta.com or calling the hotel reception on +356 2016 2420.
020 THE HUED ISSUE
SLIEMA 46-48 Tower Road Tel. 21 341 961
STYLE FILE
S/ S Fashion _ 2018
‘ Green Party ’ A seriously flirtatious trend with its soft, luxurious, flowing fabrics. Fall in lust with the combination of green tones and serene floral prints.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
1. Perfume Valentino Donna Rosa Verde. Exclusively available at Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery Ltd. Tel: 2133 1553. 2. Dress, €1,675, Alberta Ferretti available at Sarto. 3. Bag, €386, Maxmara. 4. Hat, €75, Maxmara. 5. Heels, €600, Jimmy Choo available at Sarto. 6. Top, €585, Dolce & Gabbana available at Sarto.
T H E H U E D I S S U E 023
TIGNE STREET SLIEMA BISAZZA STREET SLIEMA
STYLE FILE
S/ S Fashion _ 2018
‘ Nautical / Nudes ’ Let’s reinvent summer’s cliche stripes with a new take on all things inspired by life at sea. Spring introduces some new colour palettes to stripes and sailor-inspired cuts.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
1. Bag, €27.50, M&Co. 2. Sunglasses, €240, Maxmara. 3. Trench, €99.99, Mango. 4. Shirt, €100, Armani Exchange. 5. Shirt, €15.99, Jennyfer. 6. Bracelete, €105, BOSS 7. Top, €24, Marks & Spencer.
T H E H U E D I S S U E 025
STYLE FILE
‘ Mix and match vertical stripes with horizontal stripes to take this trend to fresher levels ’ 1.
2.
3.
4.
7.
5.
6.
1. Trousers, €35.99, Mango. 2. Top, €29.99, Tiffosi available at NOOS. 3. Top, €95, Armani Exchange. 4. Mules, €339, Max Mara. 5. Bodysuit, €9.99, Jennyfer. 6. Perfume, One Million Lucky Eau De Toilette. Exclusively available at Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery Ltd. 7. Trousers, €32.50, M&Co.
026 T H E H U E D I S S U E
CALVINKLEIN.COM THE POINT, SLIEMA
STYLE FILE
S/ S Fashion _ 2018
‘ Colour Blocking ’ A daring artistic look for all those who are craving more bold colours in their wardrobe.
1.
2.
3.
4.
7.
6.
5.
1. Dress, €60, Marks & Spencer. 2. Shoes, €27, Macrks & Spencer. 3. Top, €30, Marks & Spencer. 4. Shades, €15.99, Vilanova available at NOOS. 5. Scarf, €19.90, Monsoon. 6. Jumpsuit, €25.99, Tiffosi available at NOOS. 7. Dress, €35.99, Tiffosi available at NOOS.
T H E H U E D I S S U E 029
STYLE FILE
S/ S Fashion _ 2018
‘ Palm Springs ’ Embrace prints that reflect the springtime blossoming of our natural surroundings. A lovely, leafy trend, inspired by foliage.
1.
2.
5.
4.
3.
7.
6.
1. Playsuit, €25.99, Jennyfer. 2. Bag, €120, Armani Exchange. 3. Dress, €59.99, Mango. 4. Sandals, €285, Maxmara 5. Dress, €132, Monsoon. 6. Shorts, €25.99, Tiffosi available at NOOS. 7. Scarf, €12.99, Mango.
030 T H E H U E D I S S U E
SPRING / SUMMER
C O LL E C T I O N ! ON CH BUY ONLINE AND GET 10% OFF
ECK OUT, ENTER THE PROMO CO
DE: 10-OFF-NOW
THE POINT, TIGNE / VALLETTA / MOSTA / FGURA / VICTORIA, GOZO. TEL: 20601148 SCHOLLCENTRE.COM
Alina Anisimova takes a look at the history of the statement tee and how this political, outspoken and bold item of clothing has remained popular since its introduction into fashion a few decades ago. Designer Parascandolo speaks to her about his culturally relevant T-shirts and how they reflect the Malta of today. >>
T-SHIRT POLITICS, STATEMENTS + SELF-EXPRESSION 032 T H E H U E D I S S U E
Katharine Hamnett wearing an anti-war t-shirt whilst meeting Margaret Thatcher
STYLE FILE
STYLE FILE
Slogan t-shirt by House of Holland
Vivienne Westwood SEX T-Shirt
T
he statement T-shirt is a really simple way to tell the world who we are, and who we want to be. It has developed an amazing power to create a dialogue between the wearer and the world since as far back as the 1960s. The first slogan T-shirts were inspired by Disney and sold by Mr Freedom, a shop on the Kings Road in Chelsea. In the 1970s Vivienne Westwood took it a step further with her infamous punk era T-shirts, with slogans such as “Sex”, “Let it Rock”, and “Seditionaries”.
Slogan sweatshirt by Vetements
But it was during the next decade that words on a T-shirt brought about social and cultural change. Dressed in her iconic anti-nuclear tee Katharine Hamnett shook hands with then Prime Minister, Margaret Thatcher, in 1984. The T-shirt read “58% don’t want Pershing”. It was a reference to British public opposition to the stationing of US Pershing missiles in the United Kingdom. Right at that moment Hamnett turned a wardrobe basic into a platform for political messaging. “They’re tribal. Wearing one is like branding yourself,” Katharine Hamnett famously told The Guardian — and the power of a T-shirt
slogan hasn’t gone anywhere since. Today, the statement T-shirt is certainly having a renaissance. Linked to everything going on in both politics and pop culture, the tees are being introduced by everyone from high fashion brands such as Dior and Vetements to high street shops. So what has made this item of clothing, basic in its design, so desirable up till now? The answer lies in its rebellious potential. There’s something overwhelmingly attractive about being heard by simply wearing a particular tee. >>
T H E H U E D I S S U E 033
STYLE FILE
“ I always tend to get inspiration from what’s going on in Malta or around the world, ” and my surname, and actually it was me wearing “Skandlu”, not a model,” he says.
Photo by Rob Golfeo
Although Parascandalo is clearly influenced by London’s street style aesthetic, the brand has stepped into the world of fashion with a very different approach. Parascandalo’s designs are a major tribute to Maltese culture with slogans that are always relevant to society. “Obviously, the target market is local,” Marco says. “I am looking into expanding, so there might be statement T-shirts with English slogans in the future, but I will still keep the Maltese because that is what I’m mostly known for and it represents who I am, and where I started.” “People find it easy to relate to a statement T-shirt,” says Marco Parascandalo, the founder behind Parascandalo. The Maltese fashion brand is known for edgy and relevant statement tees that are often given an ironic touch. Interestingly, the man who is responsible for bringing the statement T-shirts to the Maltese fashion scene was in many ways influenced by the place where the concept was originally born: London. Marco spent four years in the youthoriented street fashion hub, which at the time was ruled by such designers as, for example, Brian Lichtenberg, who is known for his playful subverted designer logos, including famous Homiés (Hermès) and Feline (Céline) slogans. “When I came back to Malta I decided to participate in the ‘new designer’ competition of Malta Fashion Week, and I came up with idea of doing Maltese slogan T-shirts,” Parascandalo says. The famous “Skandlu” T-shirt, which translates as “scandal” was an addition to the collection. “It was a play with words
Parascandalo saw the potential of the T-shirt as a platform for political messaging when he debuted at Malta Fashion Week. The Skandlu collection is a reference to the Civil Unions Bill, which grants same-sex couples with the right to enter legally recognised civil unions. One of the T-shirts reads “FAQA SEW” — Maltese slang used by LGBT community, which translates as “really fab”.
than you” and “prettier this way” are a powerful reflection of our self-obsession. The T-shirts are an ironic reaction to how Facebook and Instagram turn us into attention-seeking narcissists. But luckily, according to Parascandalo, the future is brighter than one might think. “The next collection will be a continuation of Vanity Rebels, but again, with a different approach,” he explains, “It will be about our self-acceptance. So after us being so, let’s say, fake, I came to terms with accepting who we are now.” The next collection will be showcased during the upcoming Malta Fashion Week, and it will, of course, feature the infamous statement T-shirts. The power of a T-shirt as a socio-political medium cannot be denied. It is all about expressing yourself and being politically engaged while looking good — it’s a winwin. So get yourself a statement tee, and get it all off your chest. [ V ]
“I always tend to get inspiration from what’s going on in Malta or in the world,” Marco says. “In the Sky collection we had a T-shirt featuring birds. Those had a political meaning because that year in Malta we had a referendum deciding if hunting should be legal or not, so the inspiration came from there.” “From last year onwards, I have felt like I can create my own statements,” he says. “For last year’s collection Vanity Rebels, the idea and inspiration came from vanity, of course.” The tees with slogans such as “AHJAR MINNEK” and “ISBAH HEKK”, which are translated as “better Marco Parascandalo. Photo by Rob Golfeo
034 T H E H U E D I S S U E
STYLE FILE
S/ S Fashion _ 2018
‘ Urban Style ’ It’s time to stand out in your sportswear. Animal skin imitation prints, bold highlighted colours, and an overload of pink are in fashion for fitness fanatics.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
1. Skateboard, €75 2. Tshirt, €31 3. Shorts, €31 4. Cap, €31 5. Tshirt, €34 6. Sneakers, €90 Vans and Nike, available at Urban Jungle, Tigne Point, Level -2, Sliema
T H E H U E D I S S U E 037
Nailing this spring season with an urban take on florals and pastels.
P H O T O G R A P H Y: M AT T H E W B S P I T E R I MODEL: MARYSIA S. PERES STYLIST: MARTINA ZAMMIT MAEMPEL HAIR: ALEX LAPIRA HAIRDRESSING M A K E U P : A M A N D A G R E AV E S , U S I N G F L O R M A R
038 T H E H U E D I S S U E
Shirt, €15.99, Jennyfer. Skirt, €19.99, Jennyfer. Necklace, €19.90, Accessorize. Bangles, €15.90, Accessorize. Sunglasses, €15.90, Accessorize. Lace bra, stylist’s own.
T H E H U E D I S S U E 039
Dress, €102, Monsoon. Bag, €25.90, Accessorize. Sunglasses, €19.90, Accessorize. Necklace, €22.90, Accessorize. Right: Dress, €200, Carla Grima. Bangles, €15.90, Accessorize.
Left: Sweater, €39.99, NOOS. Skirt, €29.99, NOOS. Trainers, €29.99, Mango. Ring, €9.90, Accessorize. Sunglasses, €19.90, Mango. Backpack, stylist’s own. Right: Dress, €375, Essential Antwerp, available at Mexx Concept Store. Ring, €7.90, Accessorize. Necklace, €15.90, Accessorize. Black wrap belt, stylist’s own. S S _ 1 8 I S S U E 043
Left: Blouse, €165, Essentiel Antwerp, available at Mexx Concept Store. Trousers, €175, French Connection, available at Mexx Concept Store. Sandals, €25.99, Mango. Watch, €139.96, by Kerbholz at Noos. Black belt & earrings, stylist’s own. Right: Jeans, €145, Maxmara. Top, €199, Maxmara. Jacket, €369, Maxmara. Trainers, €29.99, Mango. Earrings, stylist’s own.
T H E H U E D I S S U E 045
Trousers, €32.50, M&Co. Shirt, €32.50, M&Co. Necklace, €19.90, Accessorize. Sunglasses, €6.90, Jennyfer. Scarf worn as bra top & belt, stylist’s own.
/Farsonsdirect
INTERVIEW
Lara Zankoul
Q + A
Vamp chats with conceptual, self-taught photographer Lara Zankoul about her surreal works of art, hitting the global art scene and how she motivates aspiring photographers.
www.larazankoul.com @larazankoul on instagram
Words by Carla Grima
048 T H E B O L D I S S U E
INTERVIEW
Y
our work is often described as surreal and conceptual, though I observe a strong presence of fashion inspiration in your photographs. Are you often influenced by fashion editorials and magazines? If so, how do you translate this into your more conceptual and artistic projects? My first photographic inspiration came from fashion editorials in printed fashion magazines. When I was in school, I would look at the images and dream about being a fashion photographer. Also, other than my passion for photography, the fashion world has always attracted me. Fashion is another way of personal expression which I like to play around with. So it feels natural that my photography is affected by this interest and has this sense of fashion. Not to mention that one of my favorite photographers is Tim Walker, who beautifully mixes fashion with surrealism. In my portfolio the surrealism or conceptual aspects have more weight, but I always plan the wardrobe carefully, and lately I’ve been working with wardrobe stylists for my conceptual work, which also reinforces that sense of fashion. >>
T H E B O L D I S S U E 049
INTERVIEW
“ P E O P L E W H O K N O W W HAT T H E Y ARE D OING KNOW THE RULES, AND K N O W W HAT I S P O S S I B L E A N D I M P O S S I B L E . Y O U D O N O T. A N D Y O U SHOULD N O T .” YOU CAN TEST THE BOUNDS OF THE POSSIBLE BY GOING BEYOND THEM AND MAKE THE IMPOSSIBLE POSSIBLE. >> – Neil Gaiman
050 T H E H U E D I S S U E
INTERVIEW
I started to research your work after seeing an exhibition titled ‘The Unseen’ from your 2013 collection. Could you tell us a little bit about this concept and how the images were created? This concept was born spontaneously, after a few bad experiences with hypocrisy, and people who showed me something they are not. The first visual I imagined was that of the two girls smiling to each other outside the water, while one is hurting the other with scissors underneath it. And then the iceberg-effect concept was born. The rest of the ideas started flowing easily, touching on gender,, social and psychological issues. I had them all sketched and ready but I still needed to find a way to execute the project without photo manipulation. Six months later, I had my water tank built in a production and was able to photograph the series with the help of a team of friends and acquaintances. It’s inspiring to know that your educational background is not actually in photography and that you are self-taught. Have you got any advice that you wish to share with aspiring creatives who might not have obtained a degree within the creative field? I believe the benefit of studying photography at school is to increase your technical learning curve, but if you are motivated enough, you can learn all that on your own with all the available resources online and by taking workshops in your areas of interest. Practice and experimentation are the most important parts of the learning process. When you have not studied photography, you are free from all the rules that have been set before. In his ‘Make Good Art’ speech, Neil Gaiman said: “People who know what they are doing know the rules, and know what is possible and impossible. You do not. And you should not.” You can test the bounds of the possible by going beyond them and make the impossible possible. >>
T H E H U E D I S S U E 051
INTERVIEW
“ This concept was born spontaneously, after a
052 T H E H U E D I S S U E
INTERVIEW
few really bad experiences with hypocrisy ... ” Your work has been exhibited in all the major art capitals. How did you first get your art exhibited and which are some of the galler Your work has been exhibited in all the major art capitals. How did you first get your art exhibited and which are some of the galleries that have showcased your work? I was lucky to get my work in a very reputable art gallery in Dubai (Ayyam Gallery) by winning one of their photography competitions for emerging artists. This has given me great exposure and has made it easier for me to get my work in other galleries around the world such as Guy Hepner in NYC, Art Avantages in Paris, and Heist Gallery in London. The continuity in producing photo series while developing my style has helped me retain my work in galleries. Could you take us through your thought process from concept development to final photograph? After developing a specific concept in my mind, I break down the photoshoot into five categories: location, props, model, wardrobe and lighting, then I plan and check each one of them. I then plan out the image narrative: how am I going to express my concept through these elements? I think of the angles, the compositions and the colours that I am going to use to convey my ideas visually. After this I’m ready to shoot!
Have you got any summer workshops lined up? I am working on an online workshop for beginners that will be up this summer, and I will announce it on my social media channels. I am also planning a workshop in Barcelona around the last quarter of 2018. Lastly, what project are you mostly excited about this year? I was accepted into an artist residency programme in Leipzig at the end of 2018 so I am mostly excited about that right now! Quick facts about Lara: 1. Favourite Instagram page: @minimalism 2. Current playlist: Techno - Adriatique, Acid Paudi, Solomun. 3. Go-to Camera for 2018: Canon 5d mark iiii 4. Top travel destination 2018: Spain 5. Favourite drink: Vodka 6. Magazines - print or online? Print all the way! [ V ]
After shooting, I edit the photos; my editing process consists mainly of colour correction. I’m ready to publish the images after that. This process can take from three days to months and months of planning, depending on the complexity of the project. Besides developing your own concepts, you spend a good amount of time setting up photography workshops to inspire others. Could you give us some information on what these workshops entail and what students gain after completing these? I love giving workshops and sharing my knowledge with people who share the same passion. The workshops usually entail the full process of creating a staged conceptual photo from A to Z, with a technical lighting and editing overview. They are usually spread over two full days, with a practice photoshoot on location or in a studio. Participants usually gain inspiration, motivation and technical knowledge - as well as good memories - after completing it. T H E H U E D I S S U E 053
No:3
Bringing together Malta and the world though art. Created for and by those who understand that art can better the world, artpaper is supported by various academics, professionals, and companies in Malta and abroad, and aims to be a source of inspiration, discussion, and information. Don’t Miss It! For more information about contributing, contact the editorial team on info@artpaper.press
#3 OUT SOON GET Y OUR C OPY FRO M A G E N D A , 8 TI LL LATE + W H S M I TH
Pica
Right: A colour saturated rendering of Walter (right) in dreamy abandon which has never been exhibited in the UK before. Above: La Rêve (The Dream), 1932, Private collection, Š Succession Picasso/ DACS London, 2018
056 T H E H U E D I S S U E
s s o ’s
Words: Emma Calascione
T H E H U E D I S S U E 057
EXHIBITION
W
riting about Pablo Picasso is a daunting task. Even the most adept might withdraw from an attempt to write about one of the most exhibited, researched and revered artists of the twentieth century. In the midst of such overwhelming scholarship surrounding Picasso, to even assume one could present something original, unusual, or surprising would be gilding the lily more than a little. Some have settled for unearthing obscure facts about the artist, such as his twenty-three-word-long name, or have delved into the history of his iconic Breton-striped shirt. But none of that helps us to discover new things about his art. Curators must share the same sentiments and fears. This is why the Tate Modern’s refreshing approach to this year’s Picasso exhibition has already proven to be a great hit. In ‘Picasso 1932 - Love, Fame, Tragedy’ (8th March – 9th September) the curatorial team’s decision to focus on one pivotal year in Picasso’s career is made even more commendable considering that it is the Tate Modern’s first ever solo exhibition dedicated to the artist.
Cecil Beaton, Pablo Picasso, rue La Boétie, 1933, Paris © The Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sotheby’s
“ By honing in on this one moment, 1932, the viewer has been given the rare opportunity, in this age of visual overstimulation, to fully surrender to a deep reading of these works. ”
058 T H E H U E D I S S U E
The year in question is 1932, when he met his muse and lover Marie-Thérèse Walter. It was a particularly tumultuous year for Picasso, yet interestingly also one of furious creativity. By honing in on this one moment the viewer has been given the rare opportunity, in this age of visual overstimulation, to fully surrender to a deep reading of these works. Picasso was so prolific that this show could have run to several hundred images. But discerning selection means you are never overwhelmed. “The work one does,” Picasso wrote, “is a way of keeping a diary.” Staying true to this, the retrospective presents a monthby-month visual tour of what is known as his ‘year of wonders’, >>
EXHIBITION
The year 1932 ended traumatically when Walter fell seriously ill swimming in the river Marne, spurring Picasso to produce scenes of rescue (far left). Pablo Picasso, The Rescue (Le sauvetage) 1932, oil paint on canvas, 1445 x 1122 x 77mm, Foundation Beyeler, Riehen/Basel, Sammlung Beyeler © Succession Picasso/ DACS London, 2018
Pablo Picasso, Nude woman in a Red Armchair, (Femme nue dans un fauteuil rouge), 1932, oil paint on canvas, 1299 x 972 mm, Tate, purchased 1953, © Succession Picasso/ DACS London 2018
“ The work one does,”... Picasso wrote, “ is a way of keeping a diary. ” shown through family photographs, and more than 100 paintings, drawings and sculptures. His love affair with Walter, under the nose of his Russian ballerina wife Olga, takes precedence here. The exhibition showcases three paintings of Walter shown together for the first time since their inception in March 1932. Olga might not have caught wind of the affair due to the abstracted nature of these predominantly reclining nudes. The portraits are unidentifiable and titles remain anonymous, yet viewing them together the same classical nose, oval eyes and languid mood are recognisable. These sleeping forms of isolated limbs and undulating motions have an interesting sense of boundaries being dissolved and confused. The Guardian’s Adrian Searle conjures up the image of “things splitting apart and folding in on themselves like dough being worked, one part of a body being taken for another” – perhaps mimicking the conjoined bodies of Picasso and his lover during this year of sensual creativity. One of the most curious features of these portraits is the special palette he reserves for this particular sitter. Walter is adorned with a rather dissonant mix of colours with an overwhelming amount of purple, a rather odd colour rarely used by the artist in other works. This telltale shade crops up everywhere: lavender arms and lilac voluptuous torsos curling around a series of plush armchairs; hazy purple memories of post-coital bliss. >>
T H E H U E D I S S U E 059
Pablo Picasso, Girl before a Mirror (Jeune fille devant un miroir), 1932, oil paint on canvas, 1623 x 1302 mm, The Museum of Modern Art, New York. Gift of Mrs Simon Guggenheim 1937 © Succession Picasso/ DACS London, 2018
EXHIBITION
060 T H E H U E D I S S U E
One of the three paintings of Walter that Picasso completed in only five days, shown for the first time together
EXHIBITION
Nude in a Black Armchair (Nu au fauteuil noir), 1932, oil paint on canvas, 1613 x 1295 mm, Private collection USA, © Succession Picasso/ DACS London, 2018
I find myself humming the tune of Prince’s ‘Purple Rain’ as I look through these beautiful and tender portraits over and over again. Although a peculiar comparison, there are few conspicuous artists who are so unapologetically uncensored, particularly with their approach to sexuality. Both believed love and art to be the guiding forces which assuaged the discontents of reality. Prince described the title of ‘Purple Rain’, his 1984 culture-changing landmark as follows: “When there’s blood in the sky – red and blue = purple... purple rain pertains to the end of the world and being with the one you love and letting your faith/god guide you through the purple rain.” This image resonates with Picasso’s own approach to art-making: a purging of the soul: “art washes away from the soul the dust of everyday life”. Picasso has entered the worst period of his life, shifting faithlessly between two women. There is blood in the sky in a greater context, with the rise of fascism in Europe and the Great Depression. Representative of these tumultuous times, Picasso’s plastic deformations and inventions take place: one part of a body becomes another; seemingly dissonant colours are placed alongside each other, sometimes merging into one obscure tone. Picasso’s life before Marie Therese Walter can be seen through the simplicity of red and blue, interestingly many of his portraits of Olga use these colours. When Walter waltzed into his life, bringing with her these recurring lilac hues, Picasso’s life is thrown out of balance and this is reflected in the art produced during this time. Picasso lives a split existence; between his homes and studios in Normandy and the urban bustle of Paris, between his wife and lover. All of this pushes Picasso to the height of his artistic powers, and this ambitious show succeeds in demonstrating the complexities of his art-making, which relied so heavily on the contradictions of his life at this pivotal moment. >>
Nude, Green Leaves and Bust (Femme nue, feuilles et buste) , 1932, Oil paint on canvas, 1620 x 1300 mm, Private Collection,© Succession Picasso/ DACS London, 2018
T H E H U E D I S S U E 061
EXHIBITION
The undulating form of Picasso’s lover are accentuated by the mirror behind her, a canvas filled with sensual curlicues. The Mirror (Le miroir), 1932, Oil paint on canvas, 1300 x 970 mm, Private collection, Š Succession Picasso/ DACS London, 2018 >>
T H E H U E D I S S U E 063
EXHIBITION
…lavender arms and lilac voluptuous torsos curling around a series of plush armchairs; hazy purple memories of post-coital bliss.
2018 is a big year for Picasso lovers. Many retrospectives around Europe have denounced the notion that exhibitors simply rehash old formulas that have become increasingly repetitious and stale. Mark Twain famously said: “There is no such thing as a new idea. It is impossible. We simply take a lot of old ideas and put them into a sort of mental kaleidoscope. We give them a turn and they make new and curious combinations. We keep on turning and making new combinations indefinitely; but they are the same old pieces of coloured glass that have been in use through all the ages.” Here are a few curious exhibitions emerging from that kaleidoscope that might tickle your fancy:
Malta
Malaga
Paris
The Presidential Palace in Valletta, the European capital of culture for 2018, will be holding Picasso & Miró, The Flesh & The Spirit from 7th April until 30th June. This exhibition forms part of a larger cultural project entitled Méditerranée Picasso, an initiative from Musée National Picasso-Paris, which will run from 2017 to 2019. Sixty cultural hubs around Europe will be celebrating Picasso’s special bond with the Mediterranean. For this particular exhibition in Malta, organised in conjunction with Fundación MAPFRE, the Office of the President of Malta and Fondazzjoni Patrimonju Malti, 100 prints from the Suite Vollard collection will be shown alongside 40 works by Joan Miró. By placing these two influential artists together, the exhibition follows a double journey from monochrome to colour, from violence to the celebration of life, from from carnality to spirituality. Whilst aesthetically the works differ greatly, the viewer can also notice their similarities, as two artists who challenge traditional notions of art-making albeit in very different ways.
Catch the end of ‘Y Fellini sono con Picasso’ (And Fellini Dreamt of Picasso) at the Museo Picasso Malaga. This curious combination of two artists’ shared sensibilities and obsessions charts the Italian filmmaker’s dream encounters with Picasso, shown through his ‘Book of Dreams’, started at the suggestion of his psychoanalyst, as well as various drawings, photographs, paintings, sculptures and films belonging to both artists. Ends 13th May.
It might come as a surprise to some that Picasso also made a number of jewellery pieces. Diane Venet, a French artist jewellery collector, owns one of the most intimate art collections in the world – all of it wearable. Her collection consists of over 200 pieces of jewellery from the second half of the 20th century to today. Picasso, Giacometti, Dalí, Lichtenstein and Koons all contribute to this miniature museum. Picasso’s five pieces are all produced in high-carat gold by François Hugo. This fascinating exhibition runs from March till July at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris. [ V ]
Some of the many sexualised busts on show at the Tate. Picasso made several sculptures inspired by Marie-Thérèse Walter. © Succession Picasso/ DACS London, 2018
I
f London is too dreary this time of year, you can also experience a unique take on Picasso at the following exhibitions.
T H E H U E D I S S U E 065
EAST MEETS WEST
East Meets West: At Saloni’s Secret Garden by Mizzi Studio The Celebrated designer Jonathan Mizzi, and his London-based Mizzi Studios continue to create unique and unforgettable structures. The combination of Eastern and Western aesthetic in their latest creation wowed and dazzled.
066 T H E H U E D I S S U E
EAST MEETS WEST
M
altese designer Jonathan Mizzi has been celebrated for his and his studio’s work in the past few years, most recently being awarded Best Breakthrough Talent by FX International. Founded in 2011, their projects merge sci-fi, animation and neofuturist architectural design, and the results are nothing short of spectacular. Mizzi Studios works across all scales and sectors: architecture, industrial design, lighting, interactive design and furniture. During the celebration of Holi in Udaipur, Rajasthan, Mizzi Studio created work with London–based womenswear designer Saloni Lodha, for her 10-year anniversary event. Holi, the festival of colour, sees crowds in India throw multi-coloured powders at each other in an explosion of laughter, fun and festivity. The process for Mizzi Studio involved working with local artisans for just one month to create an enchanting, walled secret garden in the grounds of the Raas Devigarh Palace hotel. The brief from the client included the vision: “Star Wars meets Gaudi meets Indian tribal huts”. So Mizzi created a series of futuristic pods that would celebrate Indian design through a contemporary reinvention, in the same way that the Indian-born Saloni has drawn on her heritage to reinterpret prints, silhouettes and colours. The Secret Garden, which covered an incredible 1,000 square metres, also needed to act as a living canvas for its visitors who would be invited to engage in the traditional ritual of Holi dust play within the area. Using local materials, the studio married traditional Indian craft with their signature sculptural forms to create a collection of colourfully painted mud-plastered and weaved huts, bars and seating areas collectively making a surreal and fantastical set to showcase Saloni’s new designs. >>
T H E H U E D I S S U E 067
Pantone 287 C: 100 M: 87 Y: 20 K: 10 R: 0 G: 47 B: 134 Hex: #002F86
PANTONE PURPLE
EAST MEETS WEST
“ S t a r Wa r s m e e t s G a u d i m e e t s In d i a n t r i b a l h u t s ” Joined together to form an experiential and immersive landscape, these structures were complemented by domed roofs inlaid with tiny mirrors that reflected light and colour, bringing this unique Secret Garden to life in new and enchanting ways. Each individual design was placed to maximise its surroundings. No matter where a visitor stood within the Garden,
they could enjoy the breathtaking views of the Raas Devigarh and the hills beyond. A central ceiling puncture – dubbed the Moon Hole – provided framed vistas of the 18th century palace which, as the sun went down, stood majestically bathed in moonlight. Among the 130 international guests who
were mesmerised by both Mizzi Studio’s incredible backdrop and Saloni Lodha’s latest capsule collection, were hotel tycoon Sir Rocco Forte’s daughters, Lydia and Irene; Samantha Cameron’s sister – and former Vogue deputy editor Emily Sheffield; stylist Martha Ward and Ernest Hemingway’s actress great granddaughter, Dree. [ V ]
T H E H U E D I S S U E 069
THRIFTING
“ Berlin is the perfect place to be young and creative, as it gives you the freedom to do so many things and not worry about money ” – Alexandra Bondi de Antoni
WORDS BY TAMMY FENECH
A Life
U
p until quite recently, the thought of anything ‘second hand’ sent shivers down the spine. The idea of buying second-hand items, be they clothes or furniture, had negative associations for a vast majority of consumers. In a capitalist society, in which we are made to believe that our ways of consumption represent us in wider society, we are under the assumption that resorting to the ‘second best’ option would give off the perception
070 T H E H U E D I S S U E
that we cannot afford first-hand things, creating an automatic stigma towards the idea of used items.
it. This was normal for us, and for many others – it was simply logical and pretty straightforward.
Growing up, I distinctly remember being raised in a culture of ‘hand-me-downs’, where my cousin’s clothes would be passed onto her sisters, and then onto my sister, who would eventually pass them onto me – resulting in a flow that would continue in a never-ending cycle of ‘hand-me-downs’. Things would hardly ever get thrown away; if it broke, we fixed it – and if it didn’t fit, we would find somebody who would fit into
I was brought up to understand that if I no longer had use for certain possessions, there was somebody, somewhere who did. And so, in my more childish views, my connotation with second hand was always linked with some kind of ‘charitable act’. As I got older, my obsession with fashion flourished and my views as a teenager gave me the idea that buying brand new items was the only way to portray my ability to
THRIFTING
be ‘on trend’ or to simply have the latest ‘must have’ items that Vogue magazine was promoting that week. This is an attitude I am sure I shared with many.
shopping […] increasing significantly from the 35 million women who used secondhand stores the previous year”
like something out of a dream. For the first time I was immersed in the desirable world of second-hand items that were ultimately available in a fashionable and affordable way. However on most occasions, it turned out that stepping foot inside one of these big warehouse-like rooms was closer to something out of a nightmare. I personally always felt immensely overwhelmed by the piles of clothes that seemed to never come to an end. I would spend a considerable amount of time sifting and rummaging through an unlimited number of stuff to probably leave with nothing in the end,
despite the amount of possible treasures, full of rich past lives, that these shops stowed. And so, the novelty of actively shopping for these items, which in my perception, at the time, was all in the name of trends, wore off rather fast.
Second-hand shopping is now on trend, and everyone wants a go at it. However with the very nature of the word ‘trend’ being change, I cannot help but wonder how long this trend will really last. Ultimately, the ability to shop second hand properly is not as straightforward as the ready-towear industry. As much as us millennials are looking for individualism, we also have
Photo by Mari Grube
In more recent years, however, this perception has been slowly shifting. The fashion industry has begun to witness the rise of the second-hand segment which is taking a very strong position within the industry. Amongst the millennials, a generation of consumers who desire individualism and personal relationships
with what they consume, the stigma of second-hand items has not only disappeared, on the contrary, it has become one of the most sought after global trends. With this changed understanding of value, the idea of finding unique items, that are highly unlikely to be found anywhere else, is what most consumers are after nowadays. Boycotting the idea of mass production, we have become more than willing to take on any old and unwanted items. In fact, recent research by Thred Up shows that in 2017, “44 million women tried second-hand
the concentration span of a goldfish – and in order to really find those unique pieces, most of the time, one requires a certain kind of patience. Personally, I was guilty of this and my patience took the better of me. When I lived in London a few years back, working on Brick Lane was a true pleasure. The reality of strolling down those beautiful streets and passing the quaint little shopfronts that opened up into big warehouselike rooms filled with timeless treasures was
About a year and a half ago I moved to Berlin and this is when my perception truly flipped. >>
T H E H U E D I S S U E 071
THRIFTING
As I found myself strolling down the rather “dirty” and “rough” looking streets of Kreuzberg, compared to the “perfectly pretty” streets of Brick Lane, I suddenly realised that this is what second-hand heaven actually looks like. Despite the “nonquaintness” about it all, unlike sifting and rummaging through the piles of stuff in the warehouse-like shops in London, I found myself sifting and rummaging through the neat pile of stuff that was left outside someone else’s home for others, like myself, to simply take. I never did it with clothes, I must admit. However, this is when the actual realisation behind the beauty of secondhand items began to actually happen. The penny started to drop that those secondhand items actually have a story and now, as a new person acquires them, they will have a past life. The idea that I could be connected so openly to a stranger through the passing of items, be it books, kitchenwear or a sofa, was simply fascinating. In Berlin you do not need to be working in an area that is known for its quaintness and ‘on trend’ approach in retail, like Brick Lane in London, to be able to have the opportunity to shop in that manner, or, like in my case, to even attempt it. In Berlin, you do not need to purposely go out to seek second hand; second hand simply seeks you. Yes, second-hand items, from beautiful furniture pieces to clothes all the way down to classic novels and lavishly green plants that are looking for a new home, literally find their way to you. No patience needed, just the ability to step outside your front door. The chances of walking down the street and finding a box full of books, sometimes ancient, sometimes new, or stumbling across a one off, at times slightly damaged, beautiful piece of furniture available for you to freely take, are rather high. I distinctly remember being impressed, firstly, with the way people would freely get rid of their belongings, and mostly with the way others would obtain those unwanted belongings left on the streets, without any kind of judgment whatsoever. Every few blocks you would find an array of the latest available items that sometimes came with a little note inviting the new possible owners to go ahead and “help themselves”.
072 T H E H U E D I S S U E
The longer time I spent in Berlin, the more my interest towards this unique secondhand lifestyle grew. I began to contemplate and further understand more about the different approach that Berlin has, and ultimately, why? In understanding and considering its history and what the city had to endure, I started to truly recognise how it possibly stems from the perception of value towards items and how it is rather unique. When you consider that the Berlin wall went down in 1986, just 32 years ago, during a time when the rest of the world were at post-war capitalist highs, Berliners were left with no choice but to keep their belongings in a continuous flow of ‘hand-medowns’. Their sad circumstances at the time automatically resulted in people holding a higher value towards the life and after-life of their possessions. I began to recognise how some effects of Berlin’s history are still felt till this day and that ultimately this is an attitude that truly runs through the veins of the city and is deeply embedded in its culture. In Berlin, second hand is no trend or fad, it is not about choosing to purchase in that way. Second hand is truly a lifestyle, a lifestyle that people do not really think about as such, it is just the way things are. I realised that second hand in Berlin is simply
logical, which instantly threw me back to my childhood memories – where I could easily relate to the logical never-ending cycle of ‘hand-me-downs’ - where instead of possessions being discarded, instead, they are given the opportunity to extend their life and story, which in reality adds a certain unique value to them. Berlin is truly unique in that way, and as a consumer you are given a diverse and endless amount of opportunities to either get rid of unwanted items or obtain them. Besides the items left on the streets, you will always find a considerable amount of small second-hand clothing shops in every neighborhood, more common than high street brands. You will find flea markets at every corner of the city, that anyone can participate in any time they please - resulting in friends teaming up every month or so, ready to spend a day personally selling their unwanted items for a couple of Euros, while at the same time being directly connected with their new owners. On occasion, you would even come across little kids, while at the park with their families, setting up shop with their blankets laid out on the grass and their random little treasures placed on top, eagerly ready to find a new home. After one and a half years of living in this city, I can sincerely say that my perception and, more importantly, my understanding of second-hand items has been altered. Living here has really helped me place a higher value on my possessions. It has created an understanding of the long process that led to their production, the time and material used, and how they can then form part of a cycle of hand-me-downs. I now see an opportunity in used items, an appreciation and even an emotional connection towards such objects. In the end, I feel like I have gone full circle, where the pretty straightforward second-hand attitude that I cultivated in my childhood has once again risen to the surface of my current perceptions on a more profound and deeper level. I have understood another meaning of value, in which the world of second hand has truly become something exciting that ultimately comes with a feeling of fulfillment and pride. [ V ]
THRIFTING
For the first time I was immersed in the desirable world of second–hand items that were ultimately available in a fashionable and affordable way.
T H E H U E D I S S U E 073
Contact us about our complimentary home interior styling services
21, Triq San Pawl Naxxar NXR 4018 (+356) 2099 9966 www.loft.com.mt Opening Hours: Mon. to Fri. 10am – 7pm Saturday 10am – 5pm
LIVING TRENDS
‘ Living Style’ Spring is here and it’s time to refresh your interiors ready for the brighter days ahead. Here are Vamps top picks on bringing some more light and colour into you homes. 1.
2.
4.
3.
5.
8.
6.
7.
1. Grand Repos. Available at Vitra 2. Hay Graphic Patterns. Available at Loft 3. Belleville Armchair. Available at Vitra 4. Hubsch. Available at Loft 5. Sundara. Available at Flamant Malta 6. Graphic Print Pillow. Available at Vitra 7. HK Living. Available at Loft
T H E H U E D I S S U E 075
ARCHITECTURE
Wa b i _ S a b i . An apartment dwelling characterised by its spaciousness, an array of textures, and a unique combination of Ukrainian and Japanese aesthetics.
U
krainian designer and architect Sergey Makhno created a two-storey apartment with a roof terrace for his own family. He aimed not only to create an interior for comfortable living, but also to bring Japanese minimalism and Ukrainian authenticity together. “Japanese culture is a part of me and my inner aesthetics. I appreciate its laconism, natural materials, rough textures. The truth in simplicity – it’s what my apartment is about”, said Sergey Makhno. >>
T H E H U E D I S S U E 077
ARCHITECTURE
...“ You can see the conversation between times and cultures ”...
078 THE HUED ISSUE
ARCHITECTURE For the Wabi Sabi apartment, a new Kyiv building was chosen. The area is 175 square metres plus a 73-square-metre open-roof terrace. The apartment is located on the 16th floor. The space embodies a calm, meditative mood thanks to the deep, natural palette of shades: natural and earthy, sky-like plus grassy green, and warm sandy tones. The walls on the ground floor were removed to merge the kitchen, dining space and living room into one open space. The natural-toned space became polar in its essence. You can see the conversation between times and cultures. Oak beams in the living room give the space the typical appearance of Japanese homes whilst the vases of Cucuteni-Trypillian culture represent Ukraine. >>
T H E H U E D I S S U E 079
ARCHITECTURE
080 THE HUED ISSUE
ARCHITECTURE
...“ The overall space flawlessly makes use of the vintage elements. The décor is designed with bits from Sergey’s collection of vintage furnishing, hand made ceramics and gorgeous 17th-century pieces ”... >>
T H E H U E D I S S U E 081
ARCHITECTURE
082 T H E H U E D I S S U E
ARCHITECTURE
Wabi Sabi aesthetics is the core of this design concept. The interior shows respect for the old elements. Important points in the décor are Sergey’s collection of ceramics and antique home furnishings. Interesting pieces borrowed from the past, like a 17th-century table in the master bedroom, ancient lavas and wooden vessels which were used for the laundry. Portals between the rooms are decorated with processed trunks of trees on the pristine millstones. In the interior the designer managed to put the four elements together: Clay on the walls represents earth; the art installation “Burn of reality” by Roman Mikhaylov is fire; the painting by Vasiliy is water; and spatial freedom is air. Sergey Makhno made sure that the entire apartment is full of that last element. >>
ARCHITECTURE
“ We art the world ” – Studio’s Motto
Sergey Makhno designs exclusive furniture, lighting and décor and most of the objects in his apartment are of special value. The designer likes to interpret traditions in a contemporary way and infuse his own interiors with arts (The studio’s motto is “We art the world”). That’s why the Wabi Sabi flat consists of art pieces of different forms. Black copper lamps and blue ceramic ones above the dining area belong to the collection “Earth”. Also there is a massive smoky lamp in the kitchen and a couple of textured lamps in a bedroom. Tactile materials result in a timeless design. The walls were finished with natural clay in an authentic technique, used in old Ukrainian dwellings. The pleasant roughness was complemented with the textures of wooden elements and smooth marble surfaces. Clay walls stretch from the ground floor to the hall on the second becoming a focal point of the spaces. A metal staircase with a decorative branch instead of a handrail leads to the private part of the apartment. It consists of a master bedroom and two children’s rooms. A glass wall divides a master bedroom from a bathroom with a sunken bath and garden views. The apartment honours simplicity, authenticity and modesty. The designer finished off its natural beauty with technology, creating a smart apartment that adapts to all the needs of its inhabitants. [ V ]
T H E H U E D I S S U E 085
THE GUTTER
FAC E B O OK & OTHER DRUGS: How Social Media Impacts Emotional and Mental Health. Words: Ju l i an C ardona
Was it ten minutes ago? An hour? Sometime yesterday? If you’re anything like the majority of the internet-addicted population, you’ve probably engaged in at least one social media platforms very recently and will likely find yourself drawn to them again very soon. While social media has given rise to elaborate virtual communities, has brought awareness to important social movements (think Arab Spring) and has supported charity organizations and countless humanitarian causes, it has also served to push forward less beneficial and sometimes troubling occurrences at both individual and societal levels. The exact correlation between the use of social media and mental health is a relatively new and complex area of research given the constantly evolving spread of the internet-landscape. While some studies point to the positive aspects and outcomes of our online lives, an increasingly growing body of research has made it its mission to warn us about the opposite view. Regardless, the impact social media has on us as individuals, organizations and communities is something that can’t – and shouldn’t be – ignored. Ironically, Facebook published a research late last year suggesting social media can harm mental health when used in certain ways. Facebook said research suggested that “social media users who spent a lot of time only reading information – but not interacting with others – reported feeling worse afterward. Users who had interaction during the experience reported having better feelings.” Facebook also reported about a survey by the University of California San Diego and Yale. The survey concluded that people who “opened at least four times as many links as average users - or who “liked”
086 T H E H U E D I S S U E
twice as many posts – reported worse mental health than average.”
offer help to users who could be suffering from mental health problems.
But is it just Facebook? What about other social media such as Twitter or Instagram? In an article published by Time Magazine, Instagram was described as “the worst social media for mental health”. One of the main points of contention is that “Seeing friends constantly on holiday or enjoying nights
Unfortunately, it seems that children are the most vulnerable, sometimes surprisingly so. In the UK, the Children’s commissioner has argued that children are the most effected as they are being exposed to “significant emotional risk” on social media, particularly as they start secondary school. According to research cited by the commissioner, “while 8- to 10-year-olds use social media in a playful, creative way – often to play games – this changes significantly as children’s social circles expand in Year 6 (or the first year of secondary school).” Another surprising discovery involves the phenomena known as “sharenting”. This is when where parents post pictures of children on social media without asking their permission. The study shows that this causes significant stress on children as they might be made to feel inadequate compared to their peers.
out can make young people feel like they are missing out while others enjoy life,” the #StatusOfMind report states. “These feelings can promote a ‘compare and despair’ attitude.” Thus, it seems that there is a risk that it can create false expectations about life. The same article also reported that “to reduce the harmful effects of social media on children and young adults, the Royal Society is calling for social media companies to make changes. The report recommends the introduction of a pop-up “heavy usage” warning within these apps or website—something 71% of survey respondents said they’d support.” Interestingly, it also recommends that companies should find an efficient way to make it very clear when photos of people have been digitally manipulated, as well as identify and
Educators around the world are stressing the need that both parents and children should enter secondary school prepared. There should also be compulsory digital literacy and online resilience lessons for Year 6 and year 7 (Form 1 in Malta) pupils about the emotional side of social media – not just messages about safety. No one argues about the communicative power of these apps: these tools, if properly harnessed, can provide deep learning experiences that broaden any child’s perspective. What we must be careful of is not to think that just because they are ubiquitous they are to be accepted as given. [ V ]
www.vitra.com/loungechair
Visit our New Vitra Home Collection.
Eames Lounge Chair
Developed by Charles & Ray Eames, 1956.
Available at your exclusive, local Vitra dealer: Vivendo Group, Mdina Road, Qormi, QRM 9011 • 2278 6366 • acwiek@vivendo.com.mt • vitra.vivendo.com.mt
TRAVEL
La Mamounia: A H AV E N I N T H E H E A R T O F M O R O C C O ’ S RED CITY
Dreaming of...
Va m p d i s c o v e r s a s t u n n i n g a n d m a j e s t i c h o t e l , a n o a s i s i n t h e c e n t r e o f M a r r a k e s h .
T H E H U E D I S S U E 089
TRAVEL
090 T H E H U E D I S S U E
TRAVEL
N
avigating through the vibrant streets of Marrakesh’s bustling medina - lined with shops and stalls selling some of the most tempting items you’ll ever want to purchase – is a thrilling experience. You can easily get lost in this charming North African city. If you make it out of the narrow, winding streets and onto the Jemaa el-Fna, Marrakesh’s famous square, there’s even more to behold. Fruit sellers, toy vendors, and musicians set up every evening alongside more eccentric sights like snake charmers and monkeys. Go there at sunset,
have a fresh mint tea on any of the rooftop cafes, and let the romantic shades of dusk carry you into the evening...while enjoying some light entertainment of course. All this colourful and carefree chaos that makes Marrakesh an exciting place to be can wear even the most energetic tourist out by the end of a day. This is why having a comfortable, luxurious, yet still culturally rewarding place to stay, is so important. Just a stone’s throw away from all the action of Jemaa el-Fna, Marrakesh’s historic palace hotel La Mamounia stands proud. Although
the gardens date back to the 12th century, the hotel was opened in 1923 and named after Prince Al Mamoun. He was given the spectacular gardens as a wedding present in the 18th century. Clearly, the spirit of the prince lives on. The legacy of Al Mamoun is present throughout this stunning hotel, with each intricate detail from its traditional tilework to the frequent wafts of lavender scents evoking a regal atmosphere. >>
T H E H U E D I S S U E 091
TRAVEL
092 T H E H U E D I S S U E
TRAVEL
The Arabic-Andalusian décor of the La Mamounia hotel makes it feel like you are walking into an artwork. Traditional Morroccan tiles cover the floors, walls, and columns. It’s hard not to get inspired by the colour palette, textures and patterns that abound throughout the building. Even the bedrooms are adorned with carefully selected pieces such as lattice-wood screens, large gilded mirrors and mosaic-tiled floors. In fact, from the painted and crafty woodwork that makes up the beds and doors to the velvety, patterned curtains, every surface in this grand hotel is thoughtfully embellished. Taking time to explore the periphery of the hotel is a must. The greenery of the garden makes it a paradise and such a welcome escape from the crowded streets of Marrakesh. Even by night the gardens are magical, and it’s a pleasure to walk through the lit up cacti, flower beds and vegetable gardens after dark. In Marrakesh the temperature is usually warm, and absolutely boiling in summer, so for that reason the two pools at La Mamounia are very welcoming. The indoor pool is less busy, but there’s an irresistible Pavilion by the outdoor pool where you can enjoy both a delicious breakfast and lunch, just next to the edge of the water. Away from the bright sunshine of the poolside, the indoor dining areas isolate guests from the external world by providing plenty for the eyes, and mouths, to feast on. The hotel boasts four restaurants, Le Marocain being the most traditional of them, serving modern takes on Morroccan cuisine. The other restaurants include L’Italien, with contemporary Italian cuisine, and Le Français, for Brasserie-style dishes. >>
...“ Traditional Morroccan tiles cover the floors, walls, and columns. It’s hard not to get inspired by the colour palette, textures and patterns that abound through- out the building. ”... T H E H U E D I S S U E 093
TRAVEL
...“ it’s like being immersed in a museum ”...
Finally, no analysis of La Mamounia would be complete without a mention of the spa. Again, it’s like being immersed in a museum with an opulent style that continues from the rest of the building. For relaxation, there is plenty to choose from, including a number of massage options including the ‘mum-to-be’ massage and a unique ‘scalp and shoulder’ massage which includes a facial. From the moment you step inside and are greeted by the welcoming staff dressed in their traditional robes, to the time your head hits the pillow after another satisfying day spent as their guest, the experience at La Mamounia is that of complete immersion. Coupled with all the amazing things to do around Marrakesh, it’s definitely a gem of a place to stay. [ V ]
T H E H U E D I S S U E 095
SPRING FOOD
Chef: Stefan Hogan Desserts: Mark McBride Corinthia Palace Hotel Photo: Sean Mallia
Vibrant Flavours
All items can be found at LOFT, Naxxar
I N – F U L L – B L O O M
096 T H E B O L D I S S U E
Paul Jaboulet AĂŽnĂŠ Crozes-Hermitage Les Jalets Attractive bright ruby colour with a violet hue. Aromas of tart red berries, with a spicy final note. Smooth, rich attack on the senses, finishing with liquorice notes. For enquiries please contact Farsonsdirect, Mriehel. Tel: 23814444
A Family Occasion Celebrate your mum this Mother’s Day at Corinthia Palace – with a delicious buffet lunch at Villa Corinthia that the whole family with love, and fabulous rejuvenating packages at Athenaeum Spa. BOOK NOW WITH OUR EVEN TS TE AM BY CALLIN G 21440301 CORINTHIA PALACE HOTEL AND SPA, DE PAULE AVENUE, SAN ANTON, BZN9023, MALTA +356 2144 0301 | SANANTON@CORINTHIA.COM | CORINTHIA.COM/PALACE
SPRING FOOD
RED MULLET WITH SPRING V E G E TA B L E S serves 4 RED MULLETS: 4 red mullets, approx. 300g each, filleted 12 French beans, blanched & trimmed 1 yellow courgette, blanched & sliced 1 green courgette, blanched & sliced 4 radishes, blanched & cut in half 4 red cherry tomatoes, blanched & peeled 4 yellow cherry tomatoes, blanched & peeled 12 broad beans, blanched & peeled 8 sprouting broccoli, blanched 8 asparagus tips, blanched 4 garlic confit, grilled Pinch of Aleppo pepper 30ml oil
DRESSING FOR VEGETABLES: 50g olive oil Basil leaves 10ml grapefruit juice Salt Aleppo pepper Lime zest AIOLI SAUCE: 30g Dijon mustard 2 egg yolks 1g salt 65g olive oil 20g extra virgin olive oil 40g melted butter, at room temperature 15ml Chardonnay vinegar 3 garlic cloves (confit), chopped 30ml pomegranate molasses Pinch of Ras el hanout
For the sauce, whisk the egg yolks and the Dijon mustard over a bain marie until emulsified. Remove from the heat and gradually add the oils and butter, whisking continuously. Once incorporated, add the vinegar, garlic, Ras el hanout spice, molasses and salt, then adjust to taste. When serving, the sauce should be warmed over a bain marie. Do not leave it as it might curdle and split. Keep stirring until warmed through and serve. For the red mullets, in a non-stick pan heat the oil and fry the red mullet fillets, skinside down until crisp. Flip over and remove from heat, allowing them to continue cooking with the residual heat. Remove and place on absorbent paper, season with the Aleppo pepper and salt to taste. Dress the vegetables and plate as pictured.
Wine Recommended – Antonio Caggiano, Fiano di Avellino Bèchar Deep straw yellow, with beautifully intense floral notes in the nose, and scents of hay, dried fruit and spices. Full and fresh on the palate, it is extraordinarily balanced and expressive, characterised by a pleasant mineral flavour and a unique persistence, typical of the finest Fiano di Avellino. For enquiries please contact Farsonsdirect, Mriehel. Tel: 23814444
T H E H U E D I S S U E 099
SPRING FOOD P.92 CARAMELISED, GOLDEN DELICIOUS MILK C H O C O L AT E C R É M E U X , P I N K C H A M PAG N E P R E S E R V E serves 4 DOUGH: 250g strong plain flour 3g fine sea salt 250g butter, at room temperature but not soft Around 150 ml cold water Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl. Roughly break the butter into small chunks, add them to the bowl and rub them in loosely. You need to see bits of butter. Make a well in the bowl and pour in about two-thirds of the cold water, mixing until you have a firm, rough dough, and adding extra water if needed. Cover with cling film and leave to rest for 20 minutes in the fridge. Turn out onto a lightly floured board, knead gently and form into a smooth rectangle. Roll the dough in one direction only, until 3 times the width, about 20 x 50cm. Keep edges straight and even. Don’t overwork the butter streaks; you should get a marbled effect. Fold the top third down to the centre, then the bottom third up and over that. Give the dough a quarter turn (to the left or right) and roll out again to 3 times the length. Fold as before, cover with cling film and chill for at least 20 minutes. Roll out to 0.5 cm thickness, and cut 4 strips 3cm wide. Place in between two baking rings. Cut 4.5 cm wide and place in between two baking rings. Bake at 180 °C and set aside. CARAMELISED APPLES: 180g unsalted butter 80g sugar 900g Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 160g, cup of whipping cream Melt butter in large pan over medium heat then sprinkle sugar over it. Stir until sugar begins to melt, for about 1 minute, and add the apples. Sauté until the apples are brown and tender and juices form, for about 10 minutes. Add cream and simmer until sauce thickens slightly, for about 2 minutes, strain and keep sauce to one side. This can be prepared 3 hours ahead. Let it stand at room temperature. Rewarm apples over medium heat when ready to plate.
0100 T H E H U E D I S S U E
MILK CHOCOLATE CRÉMEUX: 45g glucose syrup 77g egg yolks 198g whole milk 310g 35% cream 337g milk chocolate 33g gelatine mass Heat chocolate in a microwave. Add to the glucose syrup and emulsify. Boil together, temper the egg yolk mixture with it and heat back up to 82°C, while stirring. Pour previous mixture onto the chocolate and gelatine mass and emulsify. Pour into moulds and freeze. De-mould, glaze and place onto sweet pastry disk. PINK CHAMPAGNE JELLY: 200ml pink Champagne or pink sparkling wine 60g granulated Sugar 4 gelatine leaves 15g warm water Combine the champagne and sugar in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Stir or whisk constantly until the sugar is dissolved. In a small bowl, combine the warm water and gelatine. Whisk to allow gelatine to dissolve. Scrape the gelatine mixture into the saucepan with the champagne and sugar. Whisk to fully combine, ensuring all gelatine is dissolved fully and the mixture is clear pink. Remove from heat. Pour the jelly mixture into prepared containers. Cool, and once cold, blitz in food processor to obtain gelée. Fill into piping bag to use later. Place larger puff pastry ring on plate, fill with caramelised apple, and place crémeux on top, garnish with gold dusted thinner pastry ring. Place a mini apple in ring. Around your creation, place apple blossom flowers, a few apple cubes and pipe out pink champagne preserve and sauce around the plate.
P.93 PIGEON, CHERRY PA S T I L L A & B L AC K P U D D I N G CRUMBLE serves 4 ROASTED PIGEON: 2 whole pigeons 20ml olive oil 30g butter Few sprigs of thyme 2 garlic cloves PASTILLA: 2 squab pigeons, as well as the legs from the 2 whole pigeons 60ml red wine 4 shallots, finely diced 1 garlic clove, finely chopped Few saffron threads Small piece of fresh ginger, grated 1 tsp cinnamon 1 tsp ground cumin ½ chilli, seeds removed, finely chopped 20ml dry sherry 400ml chicken stock 1 egg yolk Parsley, finely chopped Coriander, finely chopped 8 spring roll wrapper pastry 60g butter, melted 30g flaked almonds, toasted & chopped 50ml olive oil In a pan, heat a table spoon of olive oil and fry the pigeons until golden brown. Add the shallots, ginger, garlic, saffron, cumin, cinnamon and chilli, add some more oil if necessary, coat the pigeons and cook in the spice mixture for a few minutes, deglaze with the red wine, let it reduce. Add the sherry and chicken stock, cover and place in an oven to cook for 35-45 minutes on 160 °C. Take out of the oven and remove the pigeon, reserve the shallot spice mix, and strain the cooking liquid. Reduce the liquid by half, reserve. Pick the meat off the pigeons and chop, add to the reserved mixture and moisten with the cooled liquid. Stir in the chopped coriander, parsley and almonds. Season to taste. Make cigars by filling in the spring roll wrapper pastry, seal the edges with egg yolk, and brush liberally with clarified butter. Bake in the oven for 12-15 minutes until golden brown. Roast the pigeons in a hot oven with oil and butter, remove and allow to rest. Carve and cut each breast in half. Plate is served with sautéed Trevisano, ginger spiced red cherry gel, black pudding crumble, bitter chocolate ganache and compressed beetroot.
CAMPARI
THE RICH HISTORY
T
OF
he history of this well-known beverage goes back to 1860 in Novara, Italy. It was in this year that Gaspare Campari created its distinctive bitter flavour. The secret recipe has never been altered since.
Then, with the opening of ‘Caffé Campari’ in the centre of Milano, Campari soon became a successful aperitif; a standard at Milan’s social events. The first Campari production plant opened in Sesto San Giovanni in 1904. After growing in popularity, in 1915 the “Camparino” bar opened and quickly became one of the symbols commonly associated with Milan, alongside fashion and design. One of the reasons for Campari’s success is that it makes for the perfect cocktail base. The “Americano” cocktail, named after its popularity with American tourists, was invented in the 20s with a recipe of Campari, red Vermouth and soda. The “Negroni” came about in the same period in Florence, when Count Camillo Negroni ordered an Americano with a touch of gin. Later the citrusy flavour of the Campari Orange was invented. It represents the unification of north and south of Italy: Campari from Milan with oranges from Sicily. The collaboration of art with drinking culture is also a key part of Campari’s legacy. Between the 20s and 40s the greatest artists of the period gave their contribution to the brand, describing the soul of Campari through their artistic creations. Among them were Ugo Mochi, Hohenstein, Dudovich, Nizzoli, Depero, Fisa and Leonetto Cappiello, who created the famous “Spiritello”… emerging from an orange peel. In 1964 Bruno Munari produced the manifesto ‘Declinazione grafica
102 T H E H U E D I S S U E
A FA M I L I A R TA S T E del nome Campari’ (Graphic Declination of the name Campari). This is now permanently exhibited at the Modern Art Museum in New York. Campari’s collaboration with famous actors and directors culminated in 1985 when the great Italian director Federico Fellini directed his very first short film commercial for the Italian market. Kelly Le Brock, the famous woman in red, starred in the commercial ‘Campari, It’s Fantasy’. Over the years models and actresses have posed for the Campari brand, including Salma Hayek, Eva Mendes, Jessica Alba, Milla Jovovich and Penelope Cruz.
Campari’s investment in the arts has been cemented with projects such as Galleria Campari; a dynamic, multimedia and interactive place, tracing the history of the brand through the expressions of modern and contemporary art. Campari Art Label was also launched, further confirming the brand’s commitment to supporting and promoting artists. Avaf, Rehberger, Beecroft (2010), Britto (2011), Nespolo (2012) and Depero (2013) are the contemporary artists that designed the labels of the limited editions developed until today. Campari is a beverage steeped in history, with a distinct flavour to be enjoyed in a variety of ways. Every sip is a pleasure… evoking Italy, its culture, and its passion for beauty and the arts. Today Campari is distributed in more than 190 countries and is a leading cultural icon across the world with a stylish personality expressed in the most contemporary style. Marketed and distribution by Farsons Beverage Import Co. Ltd. The Brewery, Mdina Road, Mriehel BKR 3000. Trade enquiries 23814400
CAMPARI
T H E H U E D I S S U E 103
– New prices you’ll love – Take a fresh look at our style. The quality you know, now with lower prices you’ll love.
FROM
€6
.00
LADIES T-SHIRTS
VALLETTA | SLIEMA
FROM
€22
.00
MID-RISE SLIM TROUSERS
MARKSANDSPENCERMALTA
Top, â‚Ź44. Shorts, â‚Ź20. All clothing and accessories are available from Marks & Spencer.
A summer wardrobe built with style and budget in mind. All clothing and accessories are available from M a r k s & S p e n c e r.
PHOTOGRAPHY: MATTHEW SPITERI STYLIST: CARLA GRIMA MODEL: NIKOLETTE URCAS MAKE UP ARTIST: AMANDA GREAVES, USING FLORMAR HAIR: VAMP TEAM
T H E H U E D I S S U E 107
Dress, €30. Top, €30. Headband, €PRICE. Sandals, €35. Opposite: Top, €40. Trousers, €34. Headband €13 All clothing and accessories are available from Marks & Spencer.
0108 T H E H U E D I S S U E
Top, €30. Trousers, €24. Top necklace, €20. Bottom necklace, €27. Sandals, €42. All clothing and accessories are available from Marks & Spencer.
Spring Collection MERCHANTS STREET, VALLETTA
T. 21 233 221
STYLE FILE
Spring Colour _ 2018
‘ Pink–Tease ’ The hottest colour trend this season, pink is here to kick start your spring style with its feminine and feisty vibes. Look out for any tone from fuchsia to cherry and enjoy mixing and matching them together. 1.
2.
3.
4.
7.
3.
5.
6.
1. Dress, €79.50, M&Co. 2. Clutch, €39.90, Monsoon. 3. Perfume, Accessorize Lovelily. Exclusively available at Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery Ltd. Tel: 2133 1553. 4. Jacket, €19.99, Jennyfer. 5. Sunglasses, €19.99, Mango. 6. Sandals, €43.50, M&Co. 7. Earrings, €12.90, Monsoon.
T H E H U E D I S S U E 113
STYLE FILE
‘ Party Pastels ’ Soft citrus shades are finding a place in our kids’ spring wardrobes. Tone down these happy, sunny hues with a more modern cut.
Girls: Top, €9.99. Shorts, €16.99. Reversible jacket, €16.99. Jeans top, €16.99. Hair band, €4.99. All available at Okaïdi.
‘Jungle Fever’ Playful animal prints are making a comeback. Opt for monochrome prints for a more contemporary artwork and inspired look.
Boys: Top, €9.99. Jeans shorts, €14.99. Blue shorts, €16.99. Hat, €9.99. Socks, €4.99. Scarf, €8.99. All available at Okaïdi.
114 THE BOLD ISSUE
OKAIDI THE PLAZA, LEVEL 1 SLIEMA ( ENTRANCE ALSO FROM TOWER ROAD ) TEL 2131 1820 MOSTA, CONSTITUTION STREET TEL 2142 3076
MASK MAGIC
Skincare that does all the hard work while you sleep. An overnight mask restores the skin for a smooth and soft complexion, and you can apply daily to speed up the skin replenishing process. Adding serum to your skincare routine provides essential moisture to your pores, preparing your face to absorb makeup and maintain a fresh and beautiful look all day long.
MASK MAGIC and a Splash of Serum
1. PAYOT PEELING OXYGENANT MASQUE Triple action peeling mask that oxygenates, detoxifies, and neutralises pollution, injecting vitality to dull, choked skin. Its pink gel transforms into a white foam, evaporating onto the skin to remove impurities. Delicious, delicately fruity fragrance. A cocoon of softness and wellbeing. Payot is exclusively available at Franks. Tel: 2388 2300.
116 T H E B O L D I S S U E
2. MY PAYOT SLEEPING PACK Revolutionise your skincare routine. Active ingredients released continuously, with patch-effect texture keeping them in place. Energising superfruits, plumping hyaluronic acid and invigorating silk tree extract erase visible signs of fatigue, allow the skin to recover during the night, revive radiance and visibly improve skin quality. Payot is exclusively available at Franks. Tel: 2388 2300.
3. PAYOT UNI SKIN PERLES DES REVES FACE MASK (NEW) Night mask to correct dark spots and perfect your complexion. An illuminating effect, the skin lights up with pure radiance when you wake up in the morning. Specific action on melatonin to clear spots and prevent their emergence. Perfumed with fresh flowery notes. Payot is exclusively available at Franks. Tel: 2388 2300.
MASK MAGIC
1.
3.
2.
“ Face masks and serums are quick and easy to use, even if you have a hectic lifestyle. Smooth, soft skin, a deep pore cleanse and a radiant glow... all from the comfort of your home. ” 4.
4. DR. GRANDEL TIMELESSLY BEAUTIFUL REGENERATING NIGHT CARE AND MASK Strengthens the skin’s natural barrier and increases elasticity overnight. Beech bud extract stimulates cell regeneration, inhibits collagen depletion and has an immediately firming effect. It smooths fine lines giving the skin a youthful, fresh appearance. Available in beauty salons and Spas. For enquiries contact Carewell by Reactilab. Email: sales@reactilab.com. Tel: 9982 8498.
6.
5.
5. SKINCEUTICALS PHYTO CORRECTIVE MASQUE (NEW) SkinCeuticals Phyto Corrective Masque contains highly-concentrated botanical extracts, a calming dipeptide, and hyaluronic acid to intensively soothe and replenish temporary skin reactivity. This intensive calming masque cools on contact, comforts skin sensitivity, and restores natural radiance and smoothness. SkinCeuticals advanced skincare products are exclusively available from Persona Med-Aesthetic Centre
6. CLARINS HYDRA-ESSENTIEL BIPHASE SERUM A hydrating serum for parched skin. As light as it is comfortable, this intense serum quenches irritated, dull, and uneven skin. It refines the skin’s texture and smooths its surface. For even more hydration, Bi-Phase Serum can be used together with the HydraEssentiel cream suitable for your skin type. Available from all leading pharmacies and perfumeries.
T H E H U E D I S S U E 117
MASK MAGIC
1. CLARINS SOS PURE FACE MASK SOS: my skin is combination to oily! Absorb excess sebum to reduce shine. This mask purifies and mattifies the skin, leaving it velvety soft. Thanks to a winning combination of plant ingredients, your skin texture becomes smoother and pores are tightened for visibly cleansed skin. Available from all leading pharmacies and perfumeries. 1. CLARINS SOS HYDRA FACE MASK SOS: my skin is dehydrated! Intense moisture fresh mask with leaf of life extract. This mask helps hydrate the skin and restores radiance. A cream-gel formula with a fresh, sorbet-like scent, its plumping texture has an instant effect on the skin. Available from all leading pharmacies and perfumeries.
1.
1. CLARINS SOS COMFORT FACE MASK SOS: my skin is dry! Nourishing balm mask with wild mango butter. Its soothing, creamy texture combines the smoothness of an ultrarich cream with the lightness of a nourishing oil to bring maximum softness and comfort. Available from all leading pharmacies and perfumeries. 2. DR. GRANDEL SPECIALS PROTECTION UV UV protection and a smoothly beautiful complexion. Without having to forgo the usual care products, the UV LSF 30 Serum can be applied over and under everyday skin care without permanently burdening the skin with sun protection. Light, non-greasy and quickly absorbed. Available in beauty salons and SPAs. For enquiries contact Carewell by Reactilab. E-mail: sales@reactilab.com. Tel: 9982 8498. 2.
2.
3. SKINCEUTICALS H.A. INTENSIFIER Introducing SkinCeuticals H.A. Intensifier, a corrective serum that amplifies the skin’s hyaluronic acid levels by 30%. This unique formulation contains a high concentration of pure hyaluronic acid to support skin’s HA levels and deliver surface hydration, helping improve the visible appearance of firmness, smoothness, and facial plumpness. SkinCeuticals advanced skincare products are exclusively available from Persona Med-Aesthetic Centre in Ta’ Xbiex.
3.
“ RECHARGE YOUR SKIN! WHETHER YOUR SKIN IS OILY, DRY OR A COMBINATION OF BOTH, KEEPING IT HYDRATED WITH MASKS AND SERUMS IS THE BEST WAY TO ACHIEVE THAT FRESH-FACE LOOK. AS THE SUN HEATS UP, DON’T FORGET TO GET YOURSELF SOME SPF CREAMS FOR PROPER UV PROTECTION. ” T H E H U E D I S S U E 119
POLISHED + PERFECT
POLISHED + PERFECT
1. CLARINS INSTANT LIGHT LIP COMFORT OIL 07: Honey Glam. Colour and care, sealed with a kiss! A unique formula rich in plantbased active ingredients. This lip oil leaves a shiny, non-sticky finish with a subtle sweet taste. Your lips will definitely have something to smile about! Available from all leading pharmacies and perfumeries. 2. CID I-PERFECTION (NEW) Get flawless foundation fast. With a skin true demi-matte finish and a cocktail of nourishing antioxidant vitamins, our advanced foundation formula has “light refraction” technology, blurring the appearance of imperfections without the look and feel of heavy coverage. Travel light with the mini version. For enquiries contact Carewell by Reactilab. E-mail: sales@reactilab.com. Tel: 9982 8498. 3. CLARINS GRAPHIK INK EYELINER Let your personality run wild. For a clean, sharp look and bold eyes, this new liner provides ultra-precise lines. Its ‘carbon black’ pigments catch the light for a denser, intense colour. With an easy-to-handle felt tip, this transfer-proof, long-wear eyeliner defines your eyes for hours on end. Easy to remove. Available from all leading pharmacies and perfumeries. 4. CID I-GROOM Brows: Perfectly groomed or big and bold, all you need are the right tools. With a range of colour options, the awardwinning I-Groom features a triangular pencil tip to plump up sparse brows, plus a built-in eyebrow brush to soften the edges for a more natural finish. For enquiries contact Carewell by Reactilab. E-mail: sales@reactilab.com. Tel: 9982 8498.
1.
3.
2.
2.
4.
5.
5. PAYOT BAUME NUTRI-RELAXANT An invitation to unwind and relax, this melt-in and velvety balm leaves the skin soft, silky and delicately scented. Enriched with shea butter to soften, intensely nourish and comfort dry skin. With jasmine and white tea notes for an experience of pure well-being. Payot is exclusively available at Franks. Tel: 2388 2300.
T H E H U E D I S S U E 121
POLISHED + PERFECT 1.
1. MAX FACTOR MASTERPIECE NUDE PALETTE Buildable velvety smooth eyeshadows in multi-dimensional textures: matte, shimmer and sparkly. Three palettes featuring a range of eight shades, from natural light tones to intense dark tones that work with every skin tone. Available from VJ Salomone Marketing. Tel: 8007 2387.
2.
3.
2. SHISEIDO SYNCHRO SKIN ILLUMINATOR (NEW) A revolutionary, long-lasting water-based illuminator for all skin types. It brings radiance and adds a touch of light to dull and fatigued skin, lasting 8 hours. The innovative lightweight texture is oilfree, alcohol-free, fragrance-free, paraben-free, non-comedogenic and dermatologist tested. Shiseido is exclusively represented by C+M Marketing Ltd. Tel: 2142 4079. 3. MAX FACTOR MIRACLE GLOW DUO (NEW) 8 hours sleep in 30 seconds. Duo of creamy highlighters: matte to perfect the skin and shimmery to boost radiance and glow. Use alone or together. Creamy, oil-free soft texture. Highlighting adds more light and emphasises the angular areas on the face that naturally catch light. Available from VJ Salomone Marketing. Tel: 8007 2387. 4. POLAAR ICESOURCE SKIN QUENCHING HYDRATING MASK WITH GLACIER WATER Specifically formulated to offer a moisturising bath for the skin. The skin becomes soft, fresh, comfortable and matte. Signs of tiredness and stress fade away and the face is smoother and velvety. Paraben, alcohol and mineral oil free. Exclusively available at Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery Ltd. Tel: 2133 1553 5. MAX FACTOR MIRACLE CONTOURING PALETTE (NEW) High definition with minimum effort. Contour in 3 easy steps. A 8-shade palette designed by Max Factor make-up artists to suit every skin tone. Creamy soft texture allows for quick and easy contouring look. Formula is easily blendable and buildable. Available from VJ Salomone Marketing. Tel: 8007 2387.
122 T H E H U E D I S S U E
4.
5.
6.
7.
6. POLAAR ICY MAGIC EYE PATCH Eye contour patches refresh the eyes in an instant, significantly brighten dark circles and diminish puffiness. A pleasurable cold effect, and designed to stay on your face. Ideal after a trip, during a season change or to prepare for an event. Paraben, alcohol and mineral oil free. Exclusively available at Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery Ltd. Tel: 2133 1553
7. NEW MAX FACTOR DARK MAGIC Mistake-free mascara offering instant dramatic volume with one stroke of its wand. Experience an intensely dark lash transformation with a uniform finish in mere seconds. A mascara you can trust from the moment it’s applied! Available from VJ Salomone Marketing. Tel: 8007 2387.
LIPO VS TUMMY TUCK
Most people considering a body-shaping cosmetic procedure have the same, primary goal – a thinner, flatter stomach. A common source of confusion is which type of surgery is actually needed to achieve the desired results. The two most popular body contouring procedures are Liposuction (including SmartLipo) and Abdominoplasty, also known as a Tummy Tuck. Although they are at times carried out together, each of these surgeries addresses separate issues.
Many look at liposuction to remove abdominal (tummy) fat, but do not foresee the unintended consequences this could have on their appearance, if the skin has lost elasticity because of age, weight gain, or pregnancy. On the other hand, a tummy tuck, removes not just the fat but also the extra loose skin and tightens up the muscles. Schedule a consultation with one of our plastic surgeons to find out which procedure can help you get the results you’re after.
M ED-A ES T HET IC
AESTHETIC PROCEDURES
COSMETIC SURGERY
Any med-aesthetic procedure carries risks. Always seek prior advice from an appropriately qualified medical practitioner. Image used for illustration purposes only.
CENT R E
DERMATOLOGY
MEDICAL SERVICES
SKIN CARE
persona.com.mt 21 340 366 42 Marina Court, Sir Ugo Mifsud Street, Ta’ Xbiex
BEAUTY
Dr. Tyron Pillow explains the effects of aging on the skin around the eyes, ways to prevent it, and how aesthetic medicine can provide a natural-looking solution.
AESTHETIC MEDICINE, ANTI-AGING T R E AT M E N T FOR THE EYES
T
sun exposure accelerate the damage to this area too, so apply sunblock, wear sunglasses (UVA and UVB protection) and if possible, do not smoke.
he great Roman philosopher Cicero said: “The face is a picture of the mind and the eyes are its interpreter.” In the bible Matthew reveals, “The eye is the lamp of the body. If your eyes are healthy, your whole body will be full of light.” Throughout life we are programmed to read visual cues, and most of the time, we subconsciously evaluate a person by looking at their face, especially their eyes. Tear troughs (the hollowing beneath the inner eye) denote fatigue. With age, the fat surrounding the orbit melts away, the bony contour of the eye orbit becomes more visible and hollow circles appear. In addition, the skin around the eyes is three to five times thinner than the rest of the skin of the face. A reduction of ‘oil’ glands in the area also contributes to this area aging more quickly than the
1 24 T H E H U E D I S S U E
rest of the face. As they say, prevention is better than cure. Adequate hydration is a must. The skin is the largest organ in the body, it is absolutely useless applying creams if you do not drink enough water. Avoidance of caffeinated beverages, alcohol, and a high salt intake is also important as these tend to dehydrate the skin. The more hydrated the skin is, the thicker it is, and thus the less the fine lines show. Smoking and
If prevention is too late for some the next step is aesthetic medicine. The most common and least invasive treatment of choice is by using a hyaluronic acid filler. Relatively painless, when injected at the right depth the result will look natural. The most common side effects include mild swelling and minimal bruising. You will probably get comments from your loved ones like “You look refreshed”, “Did you go on holiday?”, and “Are you using a new cream?” In addition to removing the visual signs of fatigue, the filler has a light reflecting property that lightens dark circles around the eyes. Dr. Tyron Pillow Aesthetic Physician
Metropolis Pharma Ltd. T: 2143 3330 Facebook: Teoxane Distributor Malta
discover more....
#hugosboutiquehotel
W W W. H U G O S H O T E LS . C O M St. George’s Road Paceville • St. Julian’s • Malta +356 2016 2420 info@hugoshotels.com
STYLE FILE
PHOTOSHOOT: REAL LADIES CAMPAIGN PHOTOGRAPHER: TAMARA WEBB LOCATION: GULULU RESTAURANT, SPINOLA BAY
1.
2.
3.
1. Maxine Zerafa Career: Teacher/Dietician 2. Erika Rossignaud Career: Real Estate Agent 3. Irene’ Career: Marketing Manager, Monsoon / Accessorize 4. Christine Fiorini Lowell and her daughter Lexi Career: A Legal Procurator by profession but currently a full time mum 5. Alice Hero Career: Works at KPMG in the Advisory Department 3.
4.
5.
Words by Irene Zarb Adami
MONSOON S / S _ ‘ 18 I joined Monsoon last June, and being an avid art lover and extremely into the concept of aesthetics, I fell in love with the brand. As a child it was a fairy tale of colour and beads and I was lucky that my mother filled my wardrobe full of Monsoon’s gorgeous clothes. The collection is full of inspired pieces, made of beautiful, rich in quality materials
- and most importantly key pieces, which you won’t be able to live without! From linen, to beachwear, to the most intricate occasion pieces, Monsoon is a must for every fashionista’s wardrobe! The ladies in this campaign were chosen specifically, as they were not regular Monsoon customers, and this allowed them to experience the clothes in the best
way possible. Each having their individual career and busy lifestyle as well as a great passion for clothes made them the perfect brand ambassadors! Each look was completely styled and chosen by them. They were to implement the clothes into their own schedules, and think about how and where they would wear them. T H E H U E D I S S U E 127
BEAUTY Words by Natalie R Vella, Hair & Makeup Artist & Model
LOV I N G L I L AC The spring colour for any face, and every occasion.
t’s official, Spring is in full swing! The sun is shining and with the scorching hot summer just around the corner it’s the perfect season to add a little colour into your makeup look! My favourite colour for the eyes this season is and always will be lilac. Without fail, every year this colour makes a comeback to my makeup style, both personally and for clients. It’s one of those universal tones that just works on everyone regardless of their undertone, skin colour and so on. What makes it work? Lilac is the perfect balance of coolness and warmth, and no matter how light or dark you go within this colour range it just works. I’m yet to come across someone that this tone doesn’t suit - and that includes deeper and lighter toned beauties! To add to the long list of reasons why I love lilac, it is day, evening and even office friendly! You really can have your cake and eat it with this tone. Adding a playful colour that pops without feeling like you’re sticking out like a sore thumb!
1. Start with a freshly cleansed base, removing any excess oils on your lids to make sure your makeup look doesn’t slide off. 2. Even out the tone on your eyes with your favourite longwearing concealer. This will also act as a ‘primer’ for your eyeshadow. 3. (Optional) Using a creme eyeshadow, apply all over the lid and blend out the harsh edges. Using a coloured creme base before your eyeshadow will really ensure your eyeshadow is pigmented. 4. Over the same area of your creme eyeshadow apply a powder eyeshadow and blend out the edges. 5. Using a cool-toned brown eyeshadow and a small shader brush, draw a soft eyeliner wing to add definition to your lash line. 6. Finally, finish off with black mascara. Don’t be shy, the depth of the black with lilac looks super stunning, and striking. See the final look on @wonderwhyalice... Alice is my partner in crime on the project The MDRN Classic Check us out @themdrnclassic
Here’s a super quick and easy, step-by-step lilac look. Go as light or as bold as you wish with it! Happy lilac loving to you!
T H E H U E D I S S U E 129
SET OFF ON YOUR SPECIAL TRIP IN STYLE
Would you like to start celebrating your special occasion in a world of style and comfort? Book the La Valette Special Occasions package and let the start of your trip set the rhythm for many magical moments.
Malta International Airport plc Luqa LQA 4000, Malta. Tel: (+356) 2369 6292/6016 Freephone: 8007 6666 Email: info@lavaletteclub.com
www.lavaletteclub.com