130614-The Post 7Day by Post Media

THE PHNOM PENH POST J UNE 14 - 20, 2013 . ISSUE #200

Gavin Hastings

My life in rugby

Lions legend on how family pain inspired new challenge

Angkor heritage UNESCO on tackling tourist ‘emergency’

Taste of Laos Learning larp in Luang Prabang

Contents

THE PHNOM PENH POST • 7Days • JUNE 14 - 20, 2013

Contributors: Bennett Murray

Publisher: Ross Dunkley

Designer: Valinda Aim

Telephone: +855 23 214 311

Cover Photo: Nino Ellison

7Days Editor: Poppy McPherson Photographers: Nino Ellison, Contributing Editors: Rosa Ellen Scott Howes, Hong Menea, Mai and Claire Knox

Vireak

Post Media Ltd. Level 8, No. 888, Building F, The Phnom Penh Centre, Cnr Sothearos Blvd. and Sihanouk Blvd., Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Website: www.phnompenhpost.com/7days/ www.phnompenhpost.com/7days/whatson © Copyright Post Media Limited The title 7Days, in either English or Khmer languages, its associated logos or devices and the contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the written consent of Post Media Limited. 7Days is a wholly owned publication of Post Media Limited and appears as an insert to The Phnom Penh Post. It is an integral part of the newspaper and must not be sold separately. 7Days is printed by Post Commercial Printing and all liability for the content is taken by the publisher.

Story

Phnom Penh Designer’s Week promises three nights of new fashion courtesy of Cambodian and foreign designers. SUPPLIED

Editor’s letter: Far shores, good surprises

Poppy mcpherson N a Saturday afternoon in the British Isles there are only two types of men – rugby fans and football fans. Both are miserable if not boorish when they lose, and intolerably smug when they win. As for the players, the headlines tell a woeful story – you know it’s a low bar if using OAP prostitutes is one of the more easily forgiven discrepancies. So it’s fun when one of the most successful players turns out to be both a great laugh and a sensitive soul. Gavin Hastings, the legendary former Lions captain, proved to be that and more last week. He paid a visit to Phnom Penh last weekend to promote Cambodia’s rugby body, The Cambodian Federation of Rugby. In between

Luang Prabang bliss: The historic former capital of Laos provided plenty of culinary delights for our writer this week. REUTERS

charming the crowd at a gala dinner at Raffles and taking dozens of young Cambodians through the paces of professional rugby he talked with 7Days. In what was a surprisingly intimate interview, he told why he wanted to involve himself in charity work abroad – and how he copes with travelling far from his gorgeous wife, Diane, who has sadly been diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease. Hastings’s work has taken him all over the

globe, but this was his first visit to a developing nation, and he was a gracious guest. Over the border in Laos’s Luang Prabang, our writer acquainted herself with the vibrant tastes of the landlocked nation – from Mekong River weed to coconut curries and chili paste. She also larp-ed on about how she learned to cook the country’s most famous dish, minced pork with an Asian twist. We also dug into a hearty helping of exotic cuisine here in Phnom Penh, at Filippino

eatery Mang Boy’s, just after the country’s Independence Day celebrations. While most foreigners are less than familiar with the tastes of the Southeast Asian nation, it transpires there’s a reason Anthony Bourdain has ranked the country number one in his “Hierarchy of Pork”. Finally, the story of one horse-riding fanatic who has advertised in Cambodia to sell her New Zealand gelding – a fitting end to a globe-trotting issue.

Chat

Quest ion s

JUNE 14 - 20, 2013 • 7Days • THE PHNOM PENH POST

quite convenient to have now this new touristic attraction – controlled tourism spot we could say – knowing that there is an emergency to deconcentrate in Cambodia the tourist flux from Angkor and distribute them more widely over the territory.

This year marks Cambodia’s last as a member Anne Lemaistre, the of the World Heritage UNESCO Representative in Committee. What is the Cambodia, might have the significance of the end of its best office in the city – if not mandate? the country. Set in a beautiful These four years have restored French mansion with been very important for yawning windows looking Cambodia because Cambodia out onto the Royal Palace, the as committee members have room is a grotto of bookshelves Anne Lemaistre, UNESCO representative to Cambodia. HONG MENEA been quite active in studying and souvenirs from her 20 all the other cases. years working for the United sent an evaluation mission issues which will be discussed. Europe, for example, ninthIt was also for Cambodia Nations Educational, Scientific last week in Mali and thought This work [the analysis] century brick buildings have the opportunity to promote and Cultural Organisation that only 11 mausoleums will be under way from first totally disappeared. One what they have done these last (UNESCO). She joined them were destroyed but, in fact, February to June 2014 – expert told me that only one 20 years here. just after Angkor was inscribed it’s 14 out of 16 which were Angkor is a very complex as a World Heritage Site in destroyed – destroyed beyond site, having 110,000 1993. repair, and apparently one inhabitants, having forests, ‘There is an emergency to deAs Cambodia prepares to host [the emblematic El Farouk having rivers, having temples, concentrate the tourist flux from the 37th session of the World monument in Timbuktu] has having paddy fields and Heritage Committee in Phnom been totally erased. Angkor more widely over the territory.’ having three million tourists Penh next week, where topics per year. All this needs to tabled for discussion include the Will the state of work together – it’s a kind of disastrous effect the civil wars conservation of Angkor be during these four months or two per cent are remaining. ecosystem. in Mali and Syria have had on discussed by UNESCO? it is intensive work for my Angkor did not appear It’s not easy. You have ancient sites, Lemaistre is a busy No, but probably next year. colleagues – in fact, that suddenly: it was built on problems every day on the woman. Poppy McPherson The Angkor site is due to give was my work before – it’s the experience of the Funan, site – trees falling, floods talked with her about the a report for 2014, and may night and day, with a lot of which was a very active period, in September and October, upcoming talks and the future be discussed then. Sites are consultation. and then the Chenla. tourists to be rescued at the of heritage in Cambodia – discussed under the topic of Sambo Prey Kuk is part last minute with a helicopter specifically that of Angkor Wat, conservation only if we see Are there any other sites in of this pre-Angkorian in Banteay Srei. which faces an “emergency”. major threats or major issues. Cambodia which you intend period, which is extremely to inscribe with World important, so we consider it Are you optimistic about What are the most What does that report Heritage status? an exceptional site. the future of Angkor? pressing items on this year’s entail, and when will it be Yes, we work on it, very Yes, no doubt. For me World Heritage Committee published? intensely. We work with the What role could Sambo it’s a matter of organisation, agenda? My colleagues at the Ministry of Culture on the Prey Kuk play in reducing of reorganising the tourism The most pressing issues on World Heritage Centre in site of Sambo Prey Kuk [in tourist concentration in – that’s why we have a the agenda will be the cases of Paris request reports from all Kampong Thom], which is Angkor? tourism management plan. Mali and Syria. We all know World Heritage sites which a pre-Angkorian site, with Our plan in the future It’s becoming an emergency, about the problems in Syria, we [UNESCO] consider archaeological remains in with the Ministry of because the number of tourists and the state of conservation need to be monitored. There bricks of the eightth and ninth Culture, Tourism and the is growing tremendously. of its six sites will be reviewed, is a request for a report century which are absolutely, government in general is We see many lost knowing that Aleppo, for [on Angkor] for the first extraordinary well-conserved. really to get people on the opportunities. We do not take example, has been heavily of February. Then these Believe me, all over the road to Siem Reap to have enough advantage of the low damaged by the conflict. In reports are read, analysed and planet we do not have such a a stop in Kampong Thom. season. Maybe you can find Mali, we will review two sites. classified and we select among conservation of well-preserved Many tourists now come to tourists interested in this rainy What is really sad is that we these sites, the ones presenting brick-made constructions. In Phnom Penh so it would be season – it’s beautiful also.

is in the studio@FX_PP I drive slow, talk on the phone and digging my nose unashamedly #Lexus330Driver Faine Greenwood@ faineg Sitting in a room full of Southeast Asians discussing surveillance and privacy the day after #PRISM broke = oh, a little embarrassing. Hun Sen’s Eye@HunSensEye I learned all of this from my high-tech surveillance network, which consists of nosy motodops and cellphones. #Cambodia #EyeAmWatching Lareina Choong@ llareina On the way to work, I sidestepped 2 splattered remains of big, fat rat roadkill. Mush and entrails everywhere. #PhnomPenh #safetyfirst SvaTom @SvaTom2003 Minor miracle, given the state of Cambodia’s justice system, if this thoroughly nasty piece of work Bandith is found guilty. #hereshoping Johanna Legarta@ johannalegarta It’s hot. #phnompenh lui-in-penh @luiinpenh everyone scrambling to get home b4 rain falls. no tuktuks in sight but i made it!!! tnx to that motodup who drove like a madman. #phnompenh

Feature

THE PHNOM PENH POST • 7Days • JUNE 14 - 20, 2013

City’s Designers Week suits up for big launch BENNETT MURRAY rom fishnets to androgynous monochrome looks, the first Phnom Penh Designers Week looks set to make a stylish entry. Some of the biggest players in Cambodia’s young fashion scene will show their latest collections at The Plantation hotel. Organised by fashion monthly F Magazine, the three-night, invitation-only trade show starts on Friday and will feature 15 models wearing the works of nine designers. Earlier this year, Cambodia Fashion Week, originally set for November 2012 was postponed for the third time, prompting designers to seek alternative ways to show their clothes. “We needed somebody to do something,” said Soap Ke, editor-inchief at F Magazine and principal organiser. “Something needed to happen to really showcase originality, really showcase that it can be made here.” The show will be opened by Cambodian label SCT, the only

In-house promo shots for Phnom Penh Designers Week. PHOTO SUPPLIED

locally run designer label in the fashion event. “It’s not that I want to be the only one, but it happened this year and I feel honoured,” said SCT co-owner Noh Sar. This year Sar’s clothing line, which he jokingly refers to as his “fishy collection”, will feature the sauciest, tangliest of women’s garments: fishnets stockings . “SCT is known for its evening wear and wedding gowns, but now for Phnom Penh Designers Week, I will showcase only my ready-towear line. For this collection, I was inspired by the graceful movements of a fish swimming in water.” Don Protasio, creative director at F Magazine and a fashion designer himself, said his collection from his self-titled brand will feature androgynous clothes in black. “I like to focus on street wear that you can wear [on its own], not so much as evening wear or formal wear,” said Protasio. “The style can be a little bit dramatic, but when you isolate the pieces, they become very wearable, rather than something you have to wear for a special occasion.”

Feature

JUNE 14 - 20, 2013 • 7Days • THE PHNOM PENH POST

A wine bottle ring from Waterlily’s new jewellery collection, to be previewed at Phnom Penh Designers Week this week. scott howes

Other brands set to show include fair trade and social enterprise label Keok’Jay, Punk Couture by [CGBCN] and bridal wear specialist Anne Noelle. Protasio said that despite the fairly small size of Cambodia’s high-fashion industry, local designers have a hard time being noticed due to the dearth of events. “If designers don’t have an event or fashion event where they can show their collections, they don’t have the opportunity to make more creations,” said

Protasio, who added that he considers himself very lucky to regularly have chances to showcase his work. However, he said that he has noticed an increasing awareness of fashion since F Magazine launched four years ago. “[Cambodia’s] fashion is not in line with what is happening globally, but with the influx of the Internet and our magazine, they see that there is so much more of what you can buy in Cambodia.”

A glittery gown from an SCT collection. The label will show new designs in the upcoming shows. PHOTO SUPPLIED

Feature

THE PHNOM PENH POST • 7Days • JUNE 14 - 20, 2013

“However you may determin The legendary former Lions captain Gavin Hastings on the pros and cons of sports culture, coping with family illness and contributing to Cambodia’s game. CLAIRE KNOX

nascent rugby body, The Cambodian Federation of E’S the archetypal Rugby, at its annual gala at bonny Scotsman. Raffles Le Royal, the 51-yearAffable, knockold was wide-eyed, taking it about nature and all in. quick to laugh. His build The legendary Lions looks made for the rugby fullback and former Scottish pitch: toweringly tall, broad rugby captain had only shoulders, chiselled jaw. But arrived in Phnom Penh the last week, his elbows resting previous evening and had on the peeling walls of one of been “out with the lads” until Phnom Penh’s most iconic the wee hours, he conceded, structures, the White Buildbut the next morning he was ing, former rugby player up before 9am for a succession Gavin Hastings seemed of rugby clinics for over 700 ruffled. He couldn’t take his disadvantaged children from eyes off a wiry teenager former Hollywood producer perched precariously on a Scott Neeson’s Steung beam, three levels from the Meanchey Cambodian ground, casually nailing a slab of tin to a roof. “Jeez, life wouldn’t be easy here would it?” he murmured. It was a lazy Saturday morning at the former social housing site – fish strewn over rattan baskets to dry and Cambodian power ballads wafting through the air. It Children’s Fund, Krousar was a morning of contrasts Thmey School for the Deaf for Hastings: from a five and French NGO Pour un star buffet breakfast to a Sourire d’Enfant. cacophony of squeals and Hastings’ sporting career songs on the rugby field, via has taken him around the a passing protest outside the globe – Australia, New Council of Ministers and then Zealand, Hong Kong, Korea the White Building. and Japan and all around Here on a whirlwind tour Europe – but last week’s to promote Cambodia’s visit marked his first time

to a developing country. His first impressions of the heady, peak hour Russian Boulevard overwhelmed him, he said earlier that morning, in the car on the way to the rugby pitch. “I just started laughing, when we turned out of the airport and into the oncoming traffic…I just thought this is nuts! Just chaotic.” Another former British Lion, the celebrated late Independent and Observer rugby hack Clem Thomas once hailed Hastings the “delightful Scot”, equally as respected off the field as on, “the epitome of the

‘Hopefully I am able to offer something back…I hope I don’t sound too sycophantic.’ rugby man; brave, resolute, adventurous and one who loves a party.” Whatever the stereotype of the rugby union player is, and whether Hastings conforms to it or not, the man’s sensitive nature is apparent - whether talking about his wife Diane’s struggle with Parkinson’s disease, the disadvantaged groups he works with or simply through his affection for kids. Hastings’ height and sturdy stature were always going to lend him to the sport, but his love for rugby union was amplified, he said, when in the early 1980s he captained George Watson’s College (a day school in Edinburgh, where he was born) in their first win against an English team. His career took off from there and he soon captained the Scottish national side and the British and Irish Lions (the popular touring test side), winning 61 caps for Scotland – a record for any Scottish player. He’s the country’s leading points scorer and set the record for most points scored in a test series in the Lions’ 1993 Australia tour. Hastings retired from international rugby in 1995 and has done anything but slow down. Now a HSBC ambassador for the sport, he travels relentlessly, speaking at galas, lunches, colloquiums,

Former Scottish rugby captain outside the White Building last week: “Hopefully I am able to offer something back a

away for six week blocks at a time, as he is now, en route to the June and July Lions tour in Australia (“a big deal”, he says – the 2001 Lions tour there injected over $100 million into the economy

while Australia’s Ticketek sold out of tickets to the events within minutes). Hastings maintained his rugby affiliation in a slew of media commentating gigs and through launching a sports

marketing business. But it was the diagnosis, in 2003, of Diane’s degenerative brain disorder that prompted him to reassess his life and values. A year shy of 40, in 2003

Feature

JUNE 14 - 20, 2013 • 7Days • THE PHNOM PENH POST

ne a rugby guy, I’m not that.”

Hastings at a football clinic with players from the Cambodian Children’s Fund last weekend. Next to him is 24-year-old Peou Sophoan, Cambodia’s first female referee. NINO ELLISON

and I have a desire to do so.” NINO ELLISON

Diane was ensconced in the routine of motherhood, ferrying Adam, seven at the time and Holly, five, to and from school, making lunches, helping with homework. Yet feelings of defeat and

depression nagged her, and when her right hand began to tremor, she sought medical attention. Parkinson’s was diagnosed straight away – Hastings found out over the phone, in Australia for the Rugby World Cup. “Her illness really helped me to understand other people’s challenges as well…I am not, however you may determine what a typical rugby guy is…I’m not that. I played rugby a long time ago - hopefully I am able to offer something back and I have a desire to do so…I hope I don’t sound too sycophantic.” “Diane is a very strong and determined person. At that time she just wanted to be a great mum to her kids and she has achieved that, and then some, you know. Hopefully when I am at home, I am a comforting factor in her life… one that she finds supportive and helpful. I love my wife to bits and we have a wonderful relationship.” Did he feel guilty he wasn’t there when she was diagnosed? “Yeah, look, of course… ultimately though I’m required to do this travel… it’s how I earn my living, speaking, but being an ambassador allows me to have a lifestyle where I’m home for a chunk of time and then away from my wife and kids for a chunk of time. I’m really

looking forward to being with them this summer.” At the moment of Diane’s diagnosis, Hastings said, his life was split into the “then and now”. While he was involved with charities before Cambodia – he had raised money for disadvantaged

It’s like anything, if you’re affected by something. I think most people get involved in charities because of personal connections. All of the groups I work with I have a link to, somehow.” He now works with the UK Parkinson’s Foundation,

‘Diane is a strong and determined person. Her illness really helped me to understand challenges.’ children through Scottish rugby charity Wooden Spoon and The Sandpiper Trust, which equips doctors and nurses in remote areas of Scotland with emergency medical equipment – his charity work intensified along with his wife’s illness. “I’ll be honest; I hadn’t paid Parkinson’s any attention until Diane was diagnosed.

Australia’s Shake it Up group, has spoken at the World Parkinson’s Congress and in January last year ascended the soaring Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania to raise money for Parkinson’s research and to mark the 70th birthday of Parkinson’s sufferer and former boxer Muhammad Ali - “a wonderful moment in my life.”

And now his latest cause, talking tackles and manoeuvring flankers with underprivileged Cambodian children. “At end of day it’s about raising money for these kids to play rugby…and if this gets them a better quality of life, even if I’m here for a few days and making a tiny contribution.” With a heaving expatriate community hailing from the British Isles and the Antipodes, it’s not surprising local rugby has gleaned a niche following here in Cambodia, but the federation’s secretary general James Sterling said 90 per cent of the 15-strong national side is made up of Cambodians who have an “absolute passion for the game.” “Rugby isn’t a massive sport in Asia…apart from colonial places like Hong Kong, Malaysia…and in Japan, who play the big boys, it’s been

huge since before the second World War … but it is coming up rapidly in places like Cambodia and Laos,” he said. Development officer and coach Dan Wetherall was similarly sanguine. He had just returned from a meeting with the National Olympic Committee to discuss the options of having an office in the same building and the prospect of a Rugby Sevens Olympics side (a team of seven will be selected from the current national team of 15 players). “It’s starting to make a real footprint… the Olympics is a genuine pathway. The [Cambodian] body type is much more suited to [Rugby] Sevens…it’s a fast game. Cambodia has traditionally struggled in the 15s because the big guys can grind them down. We’re competitive, but body size matters, that’s why CONTINUES TO PAGE 8

Feature

THE PHNOM PENH POST • 7Days • JUNE 14 - 20, 2013

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 7

... we have some expat players, just to compete. That’ll all change with the Sevens team. Cambodians are strong, they’re all quite wiry and built. “We started off with 30 kids from CCF and now I have 167 coming along every Saturday morning, that’s the positive affirmation for me. We started last September so that’s under a year.” A group of five girls gather around Hastings before leaving the 3G pitch. “I’ve played for one year now,” grinned 14-year-old Srey Neang. “I feel powerful! I want to play rugby when I’m older professionally.” The federation also partner with Paz y Desarrollo (PYD), a gender equality NGO. “We’re really pushing that line, it’s important to us, to break gender stereotypes. It’s a real platform for girls to foster self esteem and empowerment. More and more girls continue to come week after week and love it- to be honest it’s more a fluke than anything else…but this lot here today will hopefully be playing in our under 16s and 18s next year.” “The bulk of our players come from poor socio-economic backgrounds, coming from NGOs and charities, which makes us a very unique federation, where as traditionally rugby union has developed as a very middle-class, private school sport. So we may in fact be changing the shape of rugby union in Southeast Asia,” Sterling added. Hastings was impressed. “You know, rugby and football, they’re tied into a masculine culture but it doesn’t have to be that way. Look at all of the girls out here today. That female coach, [the 24-year-old Peou Sophoan, who, through PSE completed a refereeing course with the federation and is Cambodia’s first female umpire, travelling with the national side to Thailand, Indonesia and Vietnam and completing courses in Australia] I was so impressed…what an achievement. I absolutely love that. She has passion, it’s fantastic.” Reflecting later, he said the team demonstrated “such natural skill”. “I think there are some

“We may in fact be changing the shape of rugby”: James Sterling. NINO ELLISON

Hastings looks on during 1995 World Cup rugby match. Scotland lost to France. REUTERS.

important life skills that rugby, more so than other sports, can bring – really working as a team, if we do this together we can score, following desires, discipline, dedication.” However the life of the

will never be as big as football in England, in Scotland. I think about that juxtaposition of the Olympics last year in London, what a huge success – Olympians and Paralympians training for their whole lives in pursuit of

chatted to people from all walks of life, drank with local fans…I don’t think the players now get to experience what we did, they’re off to Australia flanked by five security guards…they’re sheltered.” He said he finds it hard to

that I haven’t seen in a group of kids before. And a real joy, a real happiness, in the face of adversity too.” Hastings will return to Cambodia – he has only scratched the surface of the country, he said. “The people are so inviting, they’ve astounded me. I really want to bring my family back, that’s when travel feels really special. And, you know, I’m conscious that if I don’t do this in the next four or five years, given Diane’s situation, professional rugby player has navigate the murky off-the-field representing their country, basically well I don’t quite know if it will be changed since Hastings’ started his world of elite athletes in today’s doing it for nothing. And then the possible after that. So I’ll be back sporting career, something the 55culture and the increasing number football season starts soon after and soon.” year-old regrets. of rugby and football players bound these pretentious footballers come The statement seems telling of his “It was very different then, we up in sex and drug scandals. along, prima donnas that get paid honest practicality. Hastings isn’t all had full time jobs, we weren’t “Look I’m not saying we were millions and millions of pounds shy and speaks his mind. paid for playing. Trained in our saints but there’s a different culture every year and behave badly, A drive past Phnom Penh’s spare time. And then we had these now.” without respect. monolithic Nagaworld casino wonderful opportunities to travel. Hastings drew a distinguishing “I am not interested in them, elicited a “that’s revolting” remark, The dedication now is much more line between football and rugby, I have nothing in common with while he was eager to learn more intense. There’s no comparison. But particularly in the UK. them. I haven’t received a penny about the protest and Cambodia’s I think of the skills I now have - I’ve “I’m disappointed that rugby from playing rugby, but what it gave political landscape, as well as the me was confidence, communication approaching elections. There’s skills, being mindful, how to get something raw in Hasting’s along with people.” language and he seemed to take He genuinely believes rugby can a genuine interest in the world “change lives”, and enthused about around him. the news that Rugby Sevens (seven As we he left the White Building, players rather than 15 and shorter, Hastings mused that he’d like to speedier games) had officially been return to the community. “The recognised as an Olympic sport people here are happy and smiling, and will make its debut in Rio de to my mind I love that. I’m pleased Janeiro in 2016. I have seen that side of humanity. “Rugby has the potential to grow I’m not appalled by that building, at a huge rate. Wonderful values – I’m glad I have seen it, and I would history, tradition, integrity, respect. like to try and help, if I can sense an Now there will be the ability for opportunity…to even make a tiny people all around the world to play difference in their lives.” * On July 7 the Cambodian it at Olympic level. national team will play against “I think rugby (sevens) could Brunei at the Old Stadium in become massive here – it’s huge in Japan, Korea, Thailand. Size doesn’t Russei Keo, north of Tuol Kork. In the morning they hope to have up matter, it’s about speed and pace to 1000 children take part in free and having a bit of heart.” rugby clinics. Information: dan@ “I saw all of that in the kids Former Scottish rugby captain Gavin Hastings shoots at goal during a Scotland M.P.s v England M.P.s match. REUTERS cambodiarugby.net today, a natural instinct, ability

‘I saw all of that in the kids today, a natural instinct, ability that I haven’t seen in a group of kids before.’

Feature

JUNE 14 - 20, 2013 • 7Days • THE PHNOM PENH POST

You & Me

Nicolas Malherbe and Un Vachana manage the kitchen and dining room, respectively, of the illustrious Van’s restaurant. SCOTT HOWES

Standing the kitchen heat Bennett Murray and khouth Sophak Chakyra

n the heart of Phnom Penh’s old French Quarter is the old Banque de l’Indochine, a grand old 19th century French building that today houses Van’s Restaurant. In its opulent colonial setting, executive chef Nicolas Malherbe, 32, who hails from the Languedoc Roussillon region in southern France, prepares high-end French cuisine. Young and dashing, Malherbe is in the fourth year of his first gig as an executive chef. While Malherbe takes charge of the kitchen, Un Vachana, 32, runs the show on the restaurant floor. Having started at Van’s Restaurant five years ago as a waitress, she is now one of the restaurant’s two service supervisors in charge of the wait staff. In the high-pressure environment of fine dining, the Frenchman and Cambodian admit they sometimes clash under the pressure of peak meal hours but both say that their relationship is amicable - even when the foie gras flies out of the frying pan.

Nicolas Malherbe: “Vachana and I have worked together for

over three years, so I know how to make her angry. If I’m very angry with her when she comes into the kitchen, I know how to make her angry [too] - I just say one word and she goes back upstairs! There is sometimes some tension, like in

we go to a Khmer restaurant for dinner and a little bit of beer. For my part, I try to control my stress, but sometimes, sure, I complain. I like to complain a lot. Especially to the service. I complain about everything!

“I work well with Nicolas, but sometimes we get angry when we’re working hard... I will go to him and he will say ‘no, I cannot do it!’ But then after that, he’ll do it for us. ” many restaurants. But it’s only during the main service when there is pressure. You’re very busy, and you want to do the best for the clients, so if the service or kitchen does something that impacts the other, such as too many orders coming in the kitchen at the same time, or if we give something too fast, there is always conflict. But at Van’s, we have a good relationship between the kitchen and the service. We try to work together. Everyone can help each other. Even though [Vachana and I] are two different nationalities, we have good teamwork and good communication together. Sometimes, when we finish work

If a guest has a request, we have to do it. I will complain, but I will do it. Sometimes they will ask for soy sauce for the very expensive meat. It is special meat, but most Japanese or Chinese clients are used to eating with soy sauce. I find it strange. And I don’t like it when clients order meat well done. For me, it should be medium rare or rare. But they order expensive meat and they want it well done, and it breaks my heart!”

Un Vachana:

“When I first started working at Van’s

my position was a waitress. About three months later, I was promoted to captain. Right now, I’m a supervisor. I’ve worked many jobs. When I was 16, I sold bread, and when I was 18 I became a worker at a cigarette factory. After that, I worked at an Indian restaurant as a waitress and then I worked at a Russian restaurant. Although I started as a waitress here, they promoted me to captain after three months. This job is very important for me, because I have no money to travel around the world, but working here, I can meet many customers from around the world. And I understand about their culture and how they eat. The Chinese like to have the food at the middle of the table to share, so they want the food not as a starter and main course, but all at once, so you have to accommodate. The Khmer, they don’t like to wait, so once the dish is ready you have to give it. I work well with Nicolas, but sometimes we get angry when we’re working hard. But I know him. For instance, when we have one table that we are serving steak with potato and they want to change it to rice or mashed potatoes, I will go to him and he will say ‘no, I cannot do it!’ But then after that, he’ll do it for us. Then after work we will start playing again.”

Feature

THE PHNOM PENH POST • 7Days • JUNE 14 - 20, 2013

A monk walks past one of Luang Prabang’s many temples. The old religious and political centre of Laos is BLOOMBERG

Comfort eating in the laid back heart of Luang Praba

Laos’ second city Luang Prabang, is home to more than 30 temples, and a dazzli array of culinary delights. Rosa Ellen tasted several, and tried her hand at cooking wh regarded the country’s national dish, larp.

Feature

JUNE 14 - 20, 2013 • 7Days • THE PHNOM PENH POST

d ang

ing hat is

N historic Luang Prabang, northern Laos, the twin flows of the milk-coffee Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, which border the slender peninsula of the old part of town, seem to set an eternal, languid pace. There is something comforting about a town that is nestled among mountains. Perhaps it’s the feeling of protection - though Laos’ tragic past has experienced little of that - or maybe it is the knowledge that a forest mountain trek is on your doorstep - one I would mean to take, if it weren’t for the butter-filled pleasures of indoor cafés and ruminative, cooling pagodas. With its UNESCO protection and established heritage tourism, Luang Prabang is an immaculate example of 19th and 20th Century French colonial architecture and centuries-old Buddhist temples. Shopping and eating are thoroughly catered for in the well-heeled silk shops and restaurants lining the main drag of Sakhaline Road, and it is easy to plan an entire stay around little more than strolls and snacking, with frequent stops for Laotian coffee and fruit shakes in cafes that overlook the Mekong. One of the most ubiquitous and snackable of local delicacies comes from the river itself. Mekong riverweed - khai paen – is algae harvested from riverbed rocks and dried crisp in the sun. With toasted sesame seeds scattered on top, the tasty, fibrous snack is much like a sheet of Japanese nori seaweed, broke up into squares and eaten on its own or with a spicy Laotian dip. Khai paen is sold in packages at the nightly tourist market, as well as with most restaurant meals. It is one of the many traditional Laotian dishes, along with soups and curries, with roots (literally) in the river. On such a narrow peninsula, you can walk across from one high-perched riverbank to the other in a few hundred metres, down a quiet street or through one of the brick lanes that snake between blocks. I am taking one of these paths as I look for the cooking class run from Luang Prabang’s Tamnak Restaurant. As rain clouds loom in the distant mountains and the afternoon sun dims, I find my group, seated at a communal table outside a classroom at the back of the restaurant. Most of the group aren’t tourists like me, but volunteering as English teachers to novice monks. With more than 30 temples, Luang Prabang has for centuries been an important religious centre with a sizeable population of monks. The monks’ early morning alms procession has turned into tourist attraction, with enterprising stallholders setting up on the main road and selling sticky rice to tourists to offer the passing disciples. One cooking classmate confides she has already had more than her fill of sticky rice - Laos’ national starch but is keen to learn about the other staples of the local cuisine. First up in our lesson is larp, the traditional minced meat dish, a delicate, hot and tangy ‘salad’ bursting with fresh herbs and advertised on almost every menu in town. Larp is most commonly made with pork mince, because it is cheap, but fish and chicken are also delicious, our teacher Phia Yang explains. Fried in a wok with lime juice, hot water and “stock” (which looks like MSG to me and which I leave out), the pork is then mixed in a serving dish with a handful of finely sliced banana flowers , kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, coriander and rice powder, for consistency. Fish sauce, more lime, fried garlic and onion and chili provide tartness and heat. Equally tasty as an accompaniment is the simple-tomake Laotian standard jeow, a piquant tomato sauce cooked in a wok and pummeled in a mortar and pestle with garlic, fish sauce and chili. Along with jeow bong, a vibrant red and sweetish chili paste, the sauces make excellent, appetising dips for parboiled vegetables like choko, broccoli and carrot. The next dish on the class menu is a Laotian Penang curry. Along with relatively recent European colonisation, Luang Prabang has long ties with Chiang Mai. Northern Thai flavours are evident in coconut curries and dishes like Oua Nor Mai – bamboo shoots stuffed with minced pork. While the class gets to work recreating the dishes we have just been taught, Phia deftly cleans up and puts on

Vendors sell curries and vegetable dishes at a market in Laos. afp

a basket of sticky rice, the glutinous, pearly grain that accompanies every meal. The rice requires a whole eight hours of soaking before being steamed relatively quickly in a traditional conical bamboo steamer and served in small individual baskets. By the time the class is over and our homework consumed, it is dark and rain is pouring heavily. I make my way in a ‘sky lab’ – Laotian tuk tuks named, weirdly, after the early NASA space station – to meet my travel companions at L’Elephant, a warmly lit restaurant known

for its classy European menu and stylised local dishes. Helping myself to the tail ends of their meal, I can’t help thinking my own larp was tastier. L’Elephant’s jeow and curry are much more sophisticated affairs however, imbued with garlicky heat and spice. Despite a lively dining scene, the street L’Elephant is on is dead by 9pm. So is the rest of the old town, it seems. I wander back down the damp street to my hotel, calmed by the shadowy masses of the hills over the river, watching as the town is fed and put to bed.

A street seller deep fries cakes at a produce market in Luang Prabang, Laos. bloomberg

Lifestyle

THE PHNOM PENH POST • 7Days • JUNE 14 - 20, 2013

Should I tell her I sell gay porn? JACKSON LORD SEATON Dear Jackson, I have started dating this girl who I really like, but there is something about me she doesn’t know. I told her that I live in Cambodia “exploring businesses opportunities,” which is half true. What she doesn’t know, however, is that my business involves remotely running an affiliate website for gay pornography. I don’t actually produce porn, which is made in Thailand, I just collect commission from other porn sites every time someone goes to my website and clicks on a link. I’m afraid that if I tell her what I do, she’ll think I’m gay, or that she will find it objectionable somehow. How do I broach the subject in the most benign way possible? I knew a couple of guys in college who starred in solo webcam shows. They were all straight and their audience was predominantly gay, which they didn’t mind – after all, they were making $50/hour to masturbate… something they would be doing anyway. Still, when girls found out, they were generally turned off by these guys’ part-time jobs. Why? Because it hinted at a type of exhibitionism and promiscuity that is at odds with traditional monogamous relationships. You need to be prepared for her

to run. Having said that, it sounds like the relationship is fairly new – openness could be your means of salvation. Broach the topic lightly. Ask her what she thinks of pornography. Most couples have this conversation at some point. A good lighthearted question to start with could be: “You know, a lot of

guys like watching lesbian porn. I’m not sure why ... But do women get off on seeing men go at it?” Gauge her reaction. Some women are stringently anti-porn, and they have every reason to be. Once you start the porn conversation, you need to ease towards your goal. Perhaps talking about it in a bar would be good – it

will show that you’re comfortable with what you do. Mention your other business ventures, if you have them. Then slip in, “I also run an affiliate website for gay pornography.” Your girlfriend will likely be shocked at first. Explain what it is you do. Assuring her that it’s 100 per cent gay might ease any misgivings she has about porn − gay

porn tends to be more egalitarian than its straight cousin – but it will also make her question your sexuality. If you do get off on the stuff, be open about it. Who knows . . . she might be into bringing another man into the bedroom. If not, you should be ready to tell her exactly how and why you got into this business. Tell her why you still do it. Sharing how much money you make might help. She’ll probably want to see the website. Expect for her to judge you based on its content. If the stuff is raunchy, you’re probably doomed. If it’s porn with passion, you might be OK. If she still finds this all objectionable, you need to decide if this woman is worth giving up your business venture. That, however, might not be enough – the fact that you were even once involved in the gay porn world will likely send her running. If you love her, however, it’s worth trying … If you don’t, or if it doesn’t work out, don’t fret – I’m sure there’s a more open-minded woman out there waiting for you. Have you ever tried picking up a girl at a gay bar? But one more thing: If you’re going to be living in Cambodia, make sure you’re aware of the country’s stringent antipornography laws. Got a question about sex or relationships for Jackson? Email ppp.lifestyle@gmail.com.

Movie Review

Shoot, another empty coconut Ann Hornaday

penchant for throwing costume parties with a decided absence of costumes (and whose “Are we gonna fight, or do you plan on own sidekick is played by erstwhile Barbaric boring me to death?” Conan Jason Momoa.) That’s one of Sylvester Stallone’s signature Christian Slater’s first on-screen deadpan quips in Bullet to the Head, a moment as that villain provides one of the movie that makes extravagant work of doing unintended laughs in Bullet to the Head, both. A nasty, pulpy, occasionally risible as does his biggest scene, in which he advertisement for its superannuated muscle- delivers a soaring expository aria that gets bound star, this adaptation of the graphic more amusing with every “Wait, there’s novel plays it straight when it should wink more!” cadenza. In this movie elements and careens into chaotic, unimaginative like story and dialogue are only pesky mayhem when it should go long on style. details to be dispensed with in between Directed by action veteran Walter Hill, the real deliverables: fistfights, knife fights, Bullet to the Head is the latest in a dispiriting gunfights, axe fights and one explosive line of ballistically minded misfires to land showdown at the catfish corral that whet the in theaters the past several weeks. With any filmmakers’ insatiable appetite for figuring justice, it will sink as rapidly into obscurity out new ways for people to brutalise one as its equally distasteful forebears: Mr. another. Stallone, meet Parker, Jack Reacher and the Things go bang and things go boom gun-happy goons of Gangster Squad. in Bullet to the Head, which plays like Like the antiheroes of those movies, such a floundering exercise in macho Stallone’s Jimmy “Bobo” Bonomo is a overcompensation that you almost feel sorry snarly, sneering vigilante, who in this case for it. Almost. is working as a New Orleans hit man when Stallone gets to deliver a few choice his partner unexpectedly gets knifed in a one-liners, and a montage of Bobo’s mug bar. Soon, a Washington detective named shots addresses with refreshing directness Kwon (Sung Kang) arrives on the scene, how his persona has changed over the investigating the murder of his partner. years, from Rocky to Rambo and beyond. Before long the lawman and the outlaw But the self-awareness of that sequence is are working in tandem, eventually crossing completely at odds with Stallone’s posture paths with a Garden District big shot with a throughout Bullet to the Head, in which he

“A Habsburg-lipped burlesque”: Sylvester Stallone’s posture proves risible in new action flick. Reuters

resembles something of a human waxwork, his cosmetically distorted face a Habsburglipped burlesque of his once sensuous scowl. Hill, who directed the 48 Hours franchise, never cooks up enough comic chemistry between his co-stars to qualify Bullet to the Head as a raucous buddy movie (unless you count a few vaguely racist put-downs and the requisite “you kids and your newfangled

gadgets” rant against Kwon’s decidedly oldfangled BlackBerry). Instead, Hill and Stallone seem determined simply to prove that, even in their golden years, they’re still tough enough to rumble with all comers. Bullet to the Head exposes that bravado for the pose that it is, and it’s not a good look. WASHINGTON POST

Lifestyle

JUNE 14 - 20, 2013 • 7Days • THE PHNOM PENH POST

Stranded? A colourful fishing boat floats amid a sea of water hyacinths in Takmao town, Kandal province. HONG MENEA

Restaurant Review

Filipino cuisine a satisfying secret Bennett Murray If Filipino cooking is known for anything, it is that it is famously ignored, despite being from the 12th-largest country in the world. A disclaimer is in order. Before last week, I had never tried Philippine cuisine in my life, nor did I know anything about it other than the fact that it draws heavily from Spanish influences. A little research revealed that I am not the only ignorant one, with many articles on prominent food websites discussing its lack of international acclaim. Even Filipinos are said to make fun of their cuisine. “For hundreds of years, when we’ve had guests in our homes, we’ve apologised and said to them: ‘I’m very sorry, I can only serve you Philippine food’,” a Filipino chef told the BBC. Still, those who have tried it tend to praise it – celebrity food critic Anthony Bourdain ranked the country number one on his “Hierarchy of Pork”. But regardless of the quality, sampling a national cuisine for the first time is not a comfortable position for a restaurant reviewer. Without a reference point, it is like reviewing an entire country alongside the restaurant, so it was with some trepidation that I headed to Mang Boy’s Lechon and

Anthony Bourdain rates Filipino pork as some of the best he’s ever sampled. At Mang Boy’s Lechon and Restaurant, it comes deep fried, heaped on a plate with crackling. Delicious. BENNETT MURRAY

Restaurant. The restaurant is located in a nondescript house on Street 95 just north of Mao Tse Toung Boulevard, with the dining area located on the front terrace underneath a green tarp. Plastic chairs and tables serve diners, while a lime green colour pattern adorns the floor. Although it was lunch time, the restaurant was empty. A kindly Filipino man with a Ho Chi Minh beard greeted me when I entered.

Instead of giving me a menu, he simply asked what I wanted. “Errr ... what do you have?” I replied. “Pork, beef, chicken, seafood...” Having no idea what form any of the aforementioned meats would take, I gambled and asked for the pork. About 10 minutes later, a huge platter of delicious deep-fried pork legs with a soy-vinegar dip was produced alongside generous portions of vegetables and rice. The meat, although

simply prepared, was very tender and had crackled skin that tasted like pork rinds. After being given the cheque, I learned that the dish is called pata ($7.50). I returned that evening for dinner and went through the same routine with the owner. This time, he suggested that I order the spicy beef stew, which the bill later revealed to be called Kaldereta ($4). The stew was very thick, spicy and hearty, complete with tomatoes, onions, potatoes and bell peppers. Utterly unlike any other Southeast Asian dish I had tried, both the pork and stew reminded me of Caribbean dishes I had encountered in Cuba and the Bahamas – the stew was particularly reminiscent of a “Jamaican curry” I once ate in a run-down hotel off the main tourist beat in Nassau, while the pork echoed country cooking I sampled in Pinar del Río on Cuba’s westernmost tip . Although no expert, I can now call myself an initiate of Filipino cuisine. A little-known landmark on the Asian food map, and an interesting one, it ought to do better on the international restaurant circuit. Mang Boy’s Lechon and Restaurant, #59 Street 95, Boeung Keng Kang 2

Mind boggles

THE PHNOM PENH POST • 7Days • JUNE 14 - 20, 2013

Free will astrology Week of JUNE 13

Aries

(March 21 – April 19) Irish poet Richard Brinsley Sheridan didn’t confine his lyrical wit to wellcrafted poems on the printed page. He used it to say things that would advance his practical ambitions. For example, when he first met the woman who would eventually become his wife, he said to her, “Why don’t you come into my garden? I would like my roses to see you.” That’s the kind of persuasive power I hope you will summon in the coming days, Aries. According to my analysis of the omens, you should have it in abundance. So what’s the best use of this mojo? Is there anything you would really like to sell? What new resources do you want to bring into your sphere? Who do you want to convince?

Taurus

(April 20 – May 20) In The Book of the Damned, Charles Fort revealed one of the secrets of power. He said that if you want power over something, you should be more real than it. What does that mean? How do you become real in the first place, and how do you get even more real? Here’s what I think: Purge your hypocrisies and tell as few lies as possible. Find out what your deepest self is like – not just what your ego is like – and be your deepest self with vigorous rigor. Make sure that the face you show the world is an accurate representation of what’s going on in your inner world. If you do all that good stuff, you will eventually be as real and as powerful as you need to be.

Gemini

(May 21 – June 20) Long after the artist Amedeo Clemente Modigliani died, his paintings sold for millions of dollars. But while alive, he never got rich from doing what he loved to do. He expressed frustration about the gap between his ambitions and his rewards. “I do at least three paintings a day in my head,” he said. “What’s the use of spoiling canvas when nobody will buy anything?” I hope you don’t arrive at a comparable conclusion, Gemini. It’s crucial that you not keep your good ideas bottled up in your imagination. You need to translate them into practical actions, even if there’s no immediate or obvious benefit in doing so. Expressing yourself concretely has rarely been more important than it is right now.

Cancer

(June 21 – July 22) In 1967, dissidents dreamed up a novel way to protest America’s horrific Vietnam War. They marched to the Pentagon, the military’s headquarters, and performed an exorcism to purge the place of its evil. With the power of songs and chants, they invoked magic spells designed to levitate the 6.5-million-square-foot building into the air. Their plan didn’t quite work in a literal way – the Pentagon remained firmly fixed to the ground – but the legend they spawned was potent. When I heard about it years later, it inspired me to become an activist. I see myth-making as a worthy goal for you right now, Cancerian. Dream up an epic task or project that will fuel your imagination for a long time.

Leo

(July 23 – Aug. 22) In 1926, surrealist artist Max Ernst completed the painting The Blessed Virgin Chastising the Infant Jesus in Front of Three Witnesses. It shows Mary vigorously spanking her son as he lies on her lap. Nowadays, the image doesn’t seem nearly as scandalous as it did when it first appeared. Even some Christians I know find it amusing, welcoming the portrayal of Jesus as a genuine human being with lessons to learn. What would be your equivalent of creating a cheeky image like this, Leo? How could you achieve cathartic release by being irreverent toward something or someone you respect? I recommend it.

Virgo

(Aug. 23 – Sept. 22) It’s prime time to promote crosscultural liaisons and interspecies relationships, Virgo. I encourage you to experiment with hybrids and facilitate the union of diverse interests. You will be working in alignment with cosmic trends if you strengthen the connections between influences that belong together, and even between influences that don’t know they belong together. So see what you can do to facilitate conversations between Us and Them. Negotiate peace treaties between Yes and No. Look for legitimate ways to compare apples and oranges.

Libra

(Sept. 23 – Oct. 22) Gonzo columnist Mark Morford wrote a list of liberated behaviours he wants to cultivate. Since you’re in the emancipatory phase of your yearly cycle, I invite you to try some of his strategies. 1. Have a gentler grip. Let go of tight-assed attitudes. 2. Make deeper penetration. Don’t be satisfied with surfaces. 3. Raise the vibration. Isn’t it a waste of precious life energy to mope around in a sour and shriveled frame of mind? 4. Appreciate appreciation. Treat gratitude as an emotion of the same caliber as joy. 5. Cultivate ecstatic silliness. Develop a blissful ability to take everything less seriously. 6. Drink the awe. Allow astonishment to seep in. See more.

Scorpio

(Oct. 23 – Nov. 21) From an astrological perspective, now would be a good time to go on a meditation retreat for a few days or make a pilgrimage to your ancestral homeland. You would generate just the right shifts in your brain chemistry by doing something like that. Other recommended adventures: reviewing the story of your entire life from your first memory to the present moment; writing a brief letter to the five people you have loved best, telling them why you’ve loved them; spending a day outside of time, when you don’t consult a clock or use electronic media for the duration.

“ALL HALE!”

Sagittarius

(Nov. 22 – Dec. 21) Sagittarius comedian Steven Wright says he took a class in speed waiting. “Now I can wait an hour in only 10 minutes,” he brags. I think you will have the same knack in the coming days, Sagittarius. Your patience is likely to be much more effective than usual. Results will come faster and they’ll be more intense. The only catch is that you will really have to be calm and composed and willing to wait a long time. It won’t work if you’re secretly antsy and only pretending to be imperturbable.

Capricorn

(Dec. 22 – Jan. 19) Let the boundaries blur a bit, Capricorn. Don’t stick too rigidly to the strict definitions. Play around with some good old-fashioned fuzzy logic. The straight facts and the precise details are important to keep in mind, but you shouldn’t cling to them so ferociously that they stifle your imagination. You need to give yourself enough slack to try open-ended experiments. You’ll be smart to allow some wobble in your theories and a tremble in your voice. Magic will happen if there’s plenty of wiggle room.

Aquarius

(Jan. 20 – Feb. 18)

Across 1 Formal promises 6 Insecticide target 11 Pillbox, e.g. 14 One year’s record 15 Chocolate source 16 It sometimes needs a massage 17 Of very high quality 19 “Raiders of the Lost ___” 20 It flew its last flight in 2001 21 ___ King Cole 22 “Malcolm X” director 23 “Waiting to Exhale” star Angela 27 Conned 29 Crumb 30 Thailand, prior to 1939 32 “I guess that’s true” 33 Hockey great Bobby 34 Bends the elbow 36 Nymph of the woods 39 New Mexico art community 41 Debaucher 43 Shrek, e.g. 44 Church assembly 46 Indian lute played with a bow 48 Serve do-over 49 Affording no hope

51 “Fortune” founder Henry 52 Singleton 53 Kind of case 56 Occurring after 1945, e.g. 58 Berne’s river 59 “... ___ he drove out of sight” 60 Tax preparer, for short 61 Cop show franchise 62 Handsome or beautiful 68 Night, poetically 69 Bind 70 Midmorning prayer 71 “For shame!” 72 Luau locale 73 Attack dog’s warning

Down

1 Big galoot 2 What the maid lost to get mad? 3 Demolition stuff 4 Handles, as for swords 5 Most like a snail 6 ___ Victor 7 Common deciduous tree 8 Breezing through 9 Stool pigeon 10 Rendered immobile, as cattle

11 What pregnant women are said to have 12 Think alike 13 Tipped at the casino 18 Sine and cosine, e.g. 23 Rainy-day necessities 24 Deck out 25 “Stiff one” 26 Southwest party snacks 28 Betting game 31 Airport detector exciter 35 Egg cream ingredient 37 Sports facility 38 Restrain from acting 40 Achy 42 Like Chippendale furniture 45 Grim 47 Ones with iron hands 50 Berth place 53 Aspect 54 Facilitates 55 Red Square figure 57 Bilked 63 In-flight info, for short 64 “Fantasy Island” prop 65 Retirement planning option 66 ATM maker 67 Come together

Thursday’s solution

“One should be light like a bird, and not like a feather,” said French poet Paul Valery. How do you interpret that thought, Aquarius? In the book The Science of Self-Control, here’s how Howard Rachlin expands on Valery’s idea: “We need to be spontaneous, but only in the context of some framework that allows us to attain higher levels of spontaneity; a feather is a slave to the wind, while a bird *uses* the wind.” Take heed, Aquarius! Your creative flights will go further and last longer if you have a solid foundation to take off from.

Pisces

(Feb. 19 – March 20) Let’s call today Sigh-Day. Tomorrow, too, and the next day, and the two days after that. During these five Sigh-Days, you should feel free to let out big, deep sighs at a higher rate than usual. Allow yourself to be filled up with poignant thoughts about life’s paradoxical mysteries. Give yourself permission to be overwhelmed with emotions that are midway between lamentation and reverent amazement. For even better results, indulge in some free-form moaning during your five Sigh-Days. That’ll help you release your full backlog of tension and give you more appreciation for the crazy beauty of your fate. (P.S. Try not to whine, though.)

Thursday’s solution

JUNE 14 - 20, 2013 • 7Days • THE PHNOM PENH POST

FRIDAY CAMBODIA GEMS AND JEWELRY FAIR Precious stones from Cambodia and abroad will be presented at this three day trade fair. Open to the public with free admission, but passport or identity card required for onsite registration. Diamond Island Convention and Exhibition Centre. 9am LOCO FRIDAY Practice your salsa bachata and merengue moves with a new teacher who just arrived from El Salvador. Special tapas and cocktails half price. $1 beer and sangria. The Latin Quarter, corner of Street 19 and 178. 7pm PLAE PAKAA Discover the diversity of Cambodian culture through the Children of Bassac’s classical and folk dance in the gardens of the National Museum. Tickets for sale at $12. National Museum, Street 178. 7pm REVOLUTION Featuring Tulip Band, DJ Bob Revo and DJ Sun. Special deals on finger food, with sisha and live music. Buy one cocktail jug and get one free. Lavo Club, corner of Street 208 and Norodom Boulevard. 7:30pm TIPSY TUK TUK MEGA MOBILE PARTY A tuk-tuk pub crawl to about six bars. There will be all-you-can drink beer on the tuk tuks and six free shots. $8 fee includes transport, entrance into gigs and a free shot at each bar. Sundance Inn and Saloon, #61 AB Street 172. 8pm GTS JAZZ PIANO TRIO Two French and one Italian put on jazz. Opera Cafe, corner of Street 13 and Street 178. 8:30pm SONHADOR Bossa Nova night. The Village, #1 Street 360. 8:30pm KIMCHI COLLECTIVE Performing The Doors of Perception. Doors, corner of Streets 84 and 47. 9pm FRIDAY NIGHT SALSA PARTY Free beginner classes beforehand at 8pm. Perma Cafe, #69 Street 450. 9pm PENTHOUSE Club music presented by DJ Tensions. Special cocktail is Penthouse Miami served for $4. Vodka and champagne bottles 20 percent off from 1am. Free entrance. Last Penthouse party of the season. Nova, #19 Street 214. 9pm TECNHO PARTY

With the Berlin Tropical crew. Dedicated to minimal techno, electro and tech house with DJs Tonle Dub, Mercy and JavaTech. Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard. 9pm HOLIDAY IN CAMBODIA Live music. Paddy Rice, #213 Sisowath Quay. 9pm SKY PARTY Live music with DJ Orland on the top of Cambodia’s tallest completed skyscraper. Free entrance. Eclipse Sky Bar, #445 Monivong Boulevard. 9:30pm CRIMINAL RECORDS A night of alternative Indie tunes with the occasional avant-garde live act. La Croisette, #241 Sisowath Quay. 9:30pm

FILM LES MARIÉS DE L’AN DEUX Nicolas Philibert goes to America after killing a French aristocrat. On his return he tries to divorce his wife, Charlotte, but when he sees others trying to woo her his own interest is rekindled. Institut francais, #218 Street 184. 6:30pm EASY RIDERS, RAGING BULLS A BBC documentary that traces the rise of a generation of filmmakers who pushed the boundaries of what was acceptable on screen. Features vintage footage and interviews will Francis Ford Coppola, Martin Scorsese, George Lucas, Roman Polanski, Dennis Hopper and others. Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard. 7pm

SATURDAY CAMBODIA GEMS AND JEWELRY FAIR Precious stones from Cambodia and abroad will be presented at this three day trade fair. Open to the public with free admission, but passport or identity card required for onsite registration. Diamond Island Convention and Exhibition Centre. 9am THE HISTORY OF COFFEE Philippe Godemert, Director of Commercial Exports at Malongo for the regions of Asia-Pacific and the Americas, invites us to follow the historical path of coffee. Institut Francais, #218 Street 184. 10am

ROAST AT SCORE Classic weekend roast served at Score Sports Bar and Grill every weekend. Score Sports Bar and Grill, #5 Street 288. 12-5pm CAMBODIAN BASKETBALL LEAGUE The third week of the Cambodian Basketball League, with Cellcard Eagles Vs. Sela Meas, CCPL Heat vs. Ganzberg and Phnom Penh Dragons vs. IRB The Lord playing consecutively. Entrance is all free, and as usual there will be contests for the audience at halftime, with prizes to win. Beeline Arena, Keo Chenda Street. 2pm FISHING BOAT TRIPS Join us on the Tonle Sap river boat trip on Saturdays as we try to catch some fish. We’ll go away from the city in search of good fishing spots. Everyone will get their own rod and drinks. At the end of the trip, we’ll cook some river fish Cambodian style with pepper sauce and sour mango, even if you don’t catch any. Also, we’ll tell you some stories about the river and its history. Email dorn_phok@yahoo.com or call 0978970007 to make a reservation by Friday. $10 per person. Brown Coffee, corner of Street 98 and Sisowath Quay. 4pm PHOTO EXHIBITION Snapshots of Everyday Life in Modern Day Cambodia by Daniel Rothenberg; music by Sophea and Sophheak Chomroeun and friends. Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard. 7pm CAMBODIAN SPACE PROJECT The psychedelic rock band with its 1960s Khmer influences returns from their world tour. Equinox, 3A Street 278. 9pm FRENCH MANOUCHE Gypsy and fast swing with Sebastian Adnot on guitar and Silvie Izzo on vocals. Opera Cafe, corner of Street 13 and 178. 8:30pm THE KINGDOM PARTY DJs Orawan and Tam will be hitting the decks. Riverhouse Lounge, corner of Sisowath Quay and Street 110. 9pm AFTER SHOW PARTY With DJ Nico, DJane Sopheak, featuring Cambodian and Western grooves in the mix. Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard. 9pm

SWEAT AND SAMADHI YOGA Flow style yoga class. Call 012 739 419 or 012 739 284 for details and directions. Yoga! Phnom Penh Studio, #172 z2 Norodom Boulevard. 10am

MAYFLY Acoustic Duo, Kimberley (Vocals) Rob (Guitar) will play their own interpretation of top 40 songs, create mash-ups and put their own twist on hits from the past. It’s contemporary cover music with an edge. Doors, Streets 84 and 47. 9pm

SUNDAY

FILM

END OF THE CENTURY M. Gramaglia’s documentary is the bio of legendary punk band the Ramones. It traces nearly all the sundry peaks and valleys which the seminal rockers experienced over the course of their 20 year career. Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard. 4pm LES MARIÉS DE L’AN DEUX Nicolas Philibert goes to America after killing a French aristocrat. On his return he tries to divorce his wife, Charlotte, but when he sees others trying to woo her his own interest is rekindled. Institut francais, #218 Street 184. 6:30pm SHORT PHNOM PENH DOCUMENTARIES Featuring Phnom Penh Train Station, Three Days in Phnom Penh, A Day Around the Factory and others. Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard. 8pm

SUNDAY CAMBODIA GEMS AND JEWELRY FAIR Precious stones from Cambodia and abroad will be presented at this three day trade fair. Open to the public with free admission, but passport or identity card required for on site registration. Diamond Island Convention and Exhibition Centre. 9am ROAST SUNDAZE All day roast. Free beer or glass of wine. From $7.50 The Local, #8 Street 144. All day. SATURDAY AND SUNDAY ROAST AT SCORE Classic weekend roast served at Score Sports Bar and Grill every weekend. Score Sports Bar and Grill, #5 Street 288. 12-5pm SUNDAY CARVERY A traditional carvery with a selection of succulent roast meats. The Exchange, #28 Street 47. 1pm PARENT DISCOVERY DAY Make a special craft with your little one in honor of Father’s Day. Tour the facilities, check out enrollment packages and enjoy family bonding time over tea and home baked muffins. DK Schoolhouse, #7 Street 466. 1pm HASH HOUSE HARRIERS Cross country running and walking through fields and foliage followed by Anchor beer and softdrinks. Walkers and runners of all shapes and sizes are welcome. $5 for expats, $2 for locals. Fees include all bottled water, cool drinks and beer. Phnom Penh Railway Station, corner of Monivong and Russian Boulevards. 2pm

SIMPLY THE BEST SUNDAY ROAST Option of Argentinean beef, lamb shoulder imported from Australia and chicken of which you may choose more than one at $10 per person. All the trimmings you can eat, including Yorkshire pudding, cauliflower cheese, Brussels sprouts, green beans, carrots, roasted potatoes, stuffing and homemade gravy. The Piano Lounge, #53 Street 57. 2pm TEXAS BBQ All you can eat Texas barbecue. $7.50 per head. Sundance Inn and Saloon, #61 Street 172. 3pm ULTIMATE FRISBEE Pickup games and league games. All levels welcome. Contact Greg at gbloom88@gmail.com for more information. Northbridge International School. 3pm CINECLUB Bophana CineClub will be hosted by special guest film director Chou Davy, who will screen a film and lead a discussion in English and Khmer. Free admission and soft drinks. Bophana Audiovisual Resource Centre, #64 Street 200. 3pm CHESS CLUB No charge, but we ask that you buy a drink to justify our presence. Open Wine Restaurant, #219 Street 19. 4pm THE RINGTAILS BBQ with live music from The Ringtails, bringing back memories of Dixon, Supertramp, The Stones, and Led Zeppelin. Le Jardin, #16 Street 360. 4:30pm

FILM WHEN YOU ARE STRANGE Tom DiCillo’s film uncovers historic, previously unseen footage from the illustrious rock quartet The Doors. Narrated by Johnny Depp. Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard. 4pm CHAR Farakka Barrage (West Bengal) changed the flow of the river Ganges and created transient islands. Rubel’s home was washed away by the transformed river. Now he and his family cling to the little they have in the face of crumbling banks and cyclonic tides. Sourav Sarangi’s documentary tracks Rubel and his family’s uncertain future. Winner of the DOCNET Chop Shots Film Festival 2012 in Jakarta. Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard. 7pm

MONDAY YOGA CLASSES Call 012 739 419 or 012 739 284 for details and directions. Yoga! Phnom Penh Studio, #172

z2 Norodom Boulevard. 8am, 12:15pm, 5:45pm KATY PERI’S PERI PERI CHICKEN AND PIZZA The Katy Peri chefs serve their dishes to the tune of reggae music. Show Box, #11 Street 330. 6pm NERD NIGHT Nerd Night happens roughly every other Monday at a different Phnom Penh venue. Inspired by the world renowned Pecha Kucha presentation format, Nerd Night is an exhibition of local talent and ideas. Each presentation is short and sweet: 20 slides, 20 seconds each slide. Topics are not themed. The Village, #1 Street 360. 8pm MARGARITA MAYHEM Shake your blues away with Margaritas in every flavour. Buy one get one free all night. Enjoy mash-up remixes and tunes with DJ Narata. Riverhouse Lounge, corner of Sisowath Quay and Street 110. 8:30pm

TUESDAY TWO 4 TUESDAY Resident DJs playing the best popular dance tracks, buy two get one free for cocktails and mixed drinks all night. Riverhouse Lounge, corner Sisowath Quay and Street 110. 4pm QUIZ NIGHT Teams can accumulate points just for playing and win great prizes at the end of the season. Weekly prizes are featured as well. $1 per person, with winning team taking all. The Gym Sports Bar, #42 Street 178. 5:30pm RECENT CAMBODIAN HISTORY TALK German historian DR. Bernd Schaefer is a Senior Scholar with the Woodrow Wilson International Center’s Cold War International History Project. He’ll hold a talk about Cambodia’s foreign relations during the Cold War and the UNTAC period. Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard. 7pm GTS JAZZ Late 20th Century jazz music. Piano Shop, #186 Street 13. 7:30pm OPEN MIC Musicians, poets, comedians or other entertainers invited to join. Sundance Inn and Saloon, #61 Street 172. 8pm

FILM WESTWAY TO THE WORLD This documentary provides a comprehensive view of the British punk band The Clash. Meta House, #37 Sothearos

Entertainment

THE PHNOM PENH POST • 7Days • JUNE 14 - 20, 2013

SATURDAY: THE HISTORY OF COFFEE FRIDAY, SATURDAY AND SUNDAY: CAMBODIA GEMS AND JEWELRY FAIR Diamonds are forever, and rubies, emeralds, and pearls are pretty cool too. The Ministry of Commerce has teamed up with the Hong Kong-based World Trade Fair International Limited to host a trade fair featuring the best in gems and jewelry. Gem dealers and jewelers from Cambodia and abroad will feature their wares, which include finished jewelry and loose stones. Live music performances are also scheduled. The fair is open to the public without charge, but visitors must present an identity card or passport for onsite registration.

Diamond Island Convention and Exhibition Centre. 9am

Boulevard. 4pm

57 and 51. 3-5pm

CAMBODIA KAMPUCHEA James Gerrand’s documentary exposes the nightmare of the Khmer Rouge revolution, featuring in-depth interviews with the late King Father Sihanouk. Followed by Tom Fawthrop’s documentary Dreams and Nightmares: Cambodia Ten Years After Pol Pot. Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard. 8pm

IN BETWEEN Gay and lesbian night, with prizes for best dressed. Show Box, #11 Street 330. 7pm

WEDNESDAY YOGA CLASSES Call 012 739 419 or 012 739 284 for details and directions. Yoga! Phnom Penh Studio, #172 z2 Norodom Boulevard. 8am, 12:15pm, 5:45pm ULTIMATE FRISBEE Pickup games from 4.30pm at ISPP field. Contact Greg at gbloom88@gmail.com for more information. ISPP, Street 380 between Street

GTS JAZZ New York jazz night. A selection of standard and original tunes to recreate a typical jazz club feel. Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 25 Old Auguste Site, Sothearos Blvd. 7:30pm TRIVIA NIGHT $2 entry per player, maximum seven people per team. The Willow #1 St 21. 7:30pm QUIZ NIGHT Lots of prizes and drink specials. $1 entry. Sundance Inn and Saloon #61 Street 172. 8pm NO FOREVER Acoustic duo. Doors, Street 84 and 47. 8pm

In the fifteenth century, coffee was an obscure Arabian beverage celebrated by Sufis but frowned upon by Islamic rulers, who considered the beverage forbidden by God and, more seriously, a source of political subversion. Today, it is among the world’s most profitable crops. Philippe Godemert, Director of Commercial Exports at Malongo (a coffee roaster based in the south of France) for the regions of Asia-Pacific and the Americas, invites us to follow the historical path of coffee at a lecture, also discussing coffee quality and innovation.

Institut Français, #218 Street 184. 10am

MIXED 8 BALL COMPETITION First prize is a $25 Bar Tab, second and third prize is a bottle of wine. Sharky’s, #126 Street 130. 8:30pm

FILM THROW DOWN YOUR HEART S. Paladino’s musical adventure follows American Musician Bela Fleck on his journey to Africa to explore the little known roots of the banjo. Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard. 4pm CHOPSHOTS 2012 FESTIVAL Featuring Two Girls Against the Rain about a Khmer lesbian couple fighting for their right to marry, Sweetie Pie about an elderly Burmese babysitter, and Hay Ly on climate change in Vietnam. Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard. 6:30pm

DENOK AND GARENG The story of two former street

kids who start a pig business in the heart of Muslim-dominated Jakarta. Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard. 7:30pm

THURSDAY BALL HOCKEY Sticks provided. Contact Greg at gbloom88@gmail.com for more information. City Villa, corner of Street 360 and 71. 7pm PHNOM PENH BOWLING LEAGUE All welcome, regardless of skills. Three games played each week with average scores recorded over the season for a final league ranking and winner’s trophy. Entry is $6 each. Parkway Square, corner of Mao Tse Toung Blvd and Street 163. 7:30pm JAMMING NIGHT Acoustic and rock music. Join our band with your own talent.

Riverside Bistro, #273A, Sisowath Quay. 8pm LADIES NIGHT It’s ladies night and the feeling’s right. Hot dance and house tunes. Buy two get one free. Riverhouse Lounge, corner of Sisowath Quay and Street 110. 8:30pm OPEN MIC NIGHT All musicians and singers welcome to join. Paddy Rice, corner of Sisowath Quay and Street 136. 9pm SWING DANCING With Mama Swing Equinox, #3A Street 278. 9pm VANITY NIGHT Ladies receive one free bottle of 12-year-old whiskey, a bottle of vodka or one free carafe of cocktail. NOVA, #19 Street 214. 9pm FREEZONE LIVE MUSIC MIX Featuring DJ Nico and American

guitar player Tim King, who also hosts the afternoon radio shows on 97.5 Love FM Phnom Penh. Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard. 9pm BEDROCK INDEPENDENT MUSIC NIGHT Featuring DJ F.U.D. Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard. 9pm

FILM GENIUS WITHIN: THE INNER LIFE OF GLENN GOULD Offers a wealth of footage of the late piano master. Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard. 4pm CHOPSHOTS 2012 FESTIVAL Featuring Social Game about the Kachin refugee camps in Myanmar, 25 Frames to Move about Khmer illustrator Poi Chhunly and The Hills Are Alive about the life of a family at the time of the 2010 eruption at

Entertainment

JUNE 14 - 20, 2013 • 7Days • THE PHNOM PENH POST

SATURDAY: THE CAMBODIAN SPACE PROJECT They dub themselves as a “cosmic crosscultural rendezvous… featuring space trippers from various planets,” and the much adored Cambodian Space Project’s unique, eclectic blend of GI surfer rock, reggae, dub, Khmer Surin, and 60s Cambodian psychedelic rock ‘n’ roll has re-entered the steamy Phnom Penh atmosphere after a four month hiatus. The band have been busy on a fruitful four month tour around Australia, Europe and Singapore and are now back on home turf with a string of gigs this week and next before heading to Detroit to record an album with psych-guitar legend Dennis Coffey. This weekend the band’s charismatic chanteuse Channthy will lead the band through their popular hits.

WEDNESDAY AND THURSDAY: CHOPSHOTS DOCUMENTARY FILM FESTIVAL DocNet’s first edition of the “ChopShots” Film Festival was held in Jakarta in December last year. The festival, which was curated by Cambodian based German filmmaker Marc Eberle, presented 60 Asian documentary films to thousands of film fans. Wednesdays’s documentaries include 25 Frames to Move, which follows the production of Cambodia’s first animated movies in Battambang, Two Girls Against the Rain, on the fight of a Takeo lesbian couple’s right to marry, Sweetie Pie, about a Burmese grandfather’s relationships, Hai Ly, which explores climate change, and Denok and Gareng, which follows a pair of former street kids in Jakarta. Thursday’s offerings are just as good: Social Game, is centred around the daily lives of the kids in a Burmese refugee camp, The Hills are Alive, looks at an Indonesian family living next to an active volcano, and Tondo Beloved, about a poor family in Manlia’s busiest port. Steve Pillar, director of The Hills are Alive, will hold a Q&A session following the screenings.

Equinox, #3A Street 278. 9pm

Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard. 6:30pm

Mount Merapi in Indonesia. Director S. Pillar will hold a Q&A. Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard. 6:30pm

TONDO BELOVED A film that follows four people in different stages of life surrounded by Manila’s busiest port. Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard. 8pm

ONGOING BEER O’CLOCK Free flow of draught Angkor and Tiger beer on all nights except Wine and Cheese Night. $15 per person includes French Fries and nibbles. 10 percent off a la carte delicacies. Special group discounts for groups of 10 or more. InterContinental Hotel, #296 Mao Tse Tung Boulevard. 6pm. Runs through June 30. SUNDAY ESCAPE WITH FRIENDS The Regency Cafe’s Sunday special features international and

Asian cuisine complemented with a selection of European and New World wines. $34 per adult, featuring a free flow of wine. Free for children below 12-years-old. InterContinental Hotel, #296 Mao Tse Tung Boulevard. SURVIVING Chov Theanly, a self-taught painter, is having his first exhibition. In this series, Theanly draws on live models that he selects amongst his friends, people he observes on the street and even himself. He poses them standing as well as sitting on chairs, a difference that signifies their varying personal circumstances and an echo of his own. Java Cafe, #56 Sihanouk Boulevard. From May 30 to July 7. A THING OF SMOKE Romeet’s new exhibition is a collaboration between the visual art of Séra and the poetry of Julianne Sibiski. The artist uses ink, acrylic, and pencil on Chinese paper mounted on canvas to play with vision and perception.

Pieces of word and line allow for spontaneous compositions while somewhere between abstraction and form, fragment and ink, a dance between the artist and the poet is created. Romeet Gallery, #34E1 Street 178. From May 28 to June 26. BLOOD AND SAND LAUNCH Photographer Erika Piñeros documents the bullfighting culture of her native Colombia through a series of photographs. Chinese House, #45 Sisowath Quay. ROHINGYA EXHIBITION AND TALK Award-winning photojournalist Greg Constantine has spent seven years photographing the Rohingya community in an effort to draw attention to their plight. Stripped of their citizenship in 1982, the Rohingya are a stateless community, unwanted not only in their homeland of Burma but also everywhere else. Meta House, #37 Sothearos Boulevard.

IN MOTION A Collection of Photographs by Todd Brown. Discover a fresh new look at Southeast Asia through a compilation of images from Myanmar, Cambodia, Thailand, and India. Chinese House, #45 Sisowath Quay.

locks, while building a competitive spirit. All levels and ages can and will be catered for. $10 for a single session, $135 for 15 sessions, $205 for 30 sessions and $360 for 60 sessions. K1 Gym, #131 Street 199. 5:30pm on Monday, Wednesday and Friday; 6:45pm on Tuesday and Thursday.

OPEN SPACE BAND Live music Wednesday-Sunday, playing ‘60s, soul, jazz, blues, rock Riverside Bistro, #273A Sisowath Quay. 8pm

DANCE WORLD CAMBODIA Classes in a range of dance forms from ballet, jazz, and tap, to break dancing, k-pop, and belly dancing. There are classes available for all ages. For class prices and timetables go to danceworldcambo.wordpress. com Dance World Cambodia #313 Sisowath Quay, (Hotel Cambodiana - Entrance at Physique Club Gym)

YOGA CLASSES Daily Yoga Classes with Oskar and Alison at two locations. Join us to improve your flexibility, strength, balance, posture and stress levels! Email phnompenhyoga@gmail. com or call 012 739 419 for details. SUBMISSION GRAPPLING A combination of Brazilian Jiu Jitsu, catch and freestyle wrestling, we teach all the basics of ground fighting, control, escapes, chokes, arm locks, leg

WINE, FOOD AND MUSIC Each day be serenaded by Lolito on piano and DJ Lady Bluesabelle mixing global sounds of world jazz, Latin, soul and tropical beats during sunset. Le Bar at the Sofitel, #26 Sothearos Boulevard. 6pm

till late, every week Tuesday through Saturday. DRIP EXHIBITION Inspired by the bombed-out villas of Kep from the mid 20th Century, Hak aims to demonstrate the old 1950s and 60s architecture through a multi-medium approach. Born in 1981 in Battambang, Kim Kak developed a passion for photography by participating in various workshops held in Asia. His work has been included in international photography and art festival such as Photoquai in Paris or PhotoPhnomPenh. Kim Hak has also been sharing his knowledge and experiences in workshops. Institut français, #218 Street 184. Runs until May 18. “DORSU! THE STRUGGLE FOR CHANGE” LAUNCH Photo exhibition by Heather Stilwell. Each photograph was taken within the last year during street protests, at garment factories, or inside people’s homes to capture moments that are rarely seen. Craft Peace Cafe, #14 Street 392.

Last look

THE PHNOM PENH POST • 7Days • JUNE 14 - 20, 2013

Ad, unclassified: ‘Horse, an NZ Thoroughbred, For Sale’ AS TOLD TO BENNETT MURRAY “Our horse is a gelded thoroughbred born in New Zealand from a Japanese stallion. His real name is Son of Summer and the Thais at the stables called him Chokdee (good luck ), but my daughter did not like either of these names. So she chose the name Blim, because in Thai when you say ‘my name is Blim’, you say ‘suu Blim’... ‘sublime’ in French. “My family has been involved in horse riding for generations. I have a medal from Nicholas II, the last Czar of Russia, who gave my great grandfather a medal for teaching him dressage. My grandfather fought the German artillery during the Second World War on horseback. “I started to ride as soon as I could buy horses with my own money. I love living abroad in many different countries, so I became a factory manager, which is what I still do. “When we moved to Laos, we bought 10 small Lao horses and we rode them every week by our friend’s resort in Vientiane. We had so many adventures, good and bad that it would take the whole night to explain. Meanwhile in France, we started a small breeding farm there as a side-project, where we specialised in pure Arabs. We still have 10 horses there. “As soon as we arrived in Thailand, the

Blim is still in Chiang Mai, but with the right owner, he could come to Cambodia. SUPPLIED

next country where I worked, I looked for horses. The horses for sale in clubs and riding schools were mostly not that nice and the prices sky high, so after four months of searching I finally decided to look in the local market. Unfortunately, during the flooding we had two years ago in Thailand, the horses showed some signs of anemia, and the vets did not know what it was because Bangkok’s only lab was flooded. So I had to go through the whole process

Magic schoolbus: Children on the way to the day’s classes. MAI VIREAK

of sending the blood samples to our vet in France. When the tests finally arrived, they revealed that they caught the trypanosome virus along with the West Nile virus, which gave them very little chance to survive. Unfortunately, neither made it. “We were devastated and decided never again to get horses in Asia, until a good friend of mine told me one day that her father knew a guy at the horse race stables who just bought a nice horse from Malaysia

with no injuries– difficult to believe when you consider how the race horses are treated around here. We decided to take a look just for fun, but we fell in love right away. I asked three vets to check him out, and they all said he had no problems. So we finally bought him. Many people in Chiang Mai thought that we were crazy buying a race horse to change him to a dressage horse, but he is so beautiful, so classy and sweet. “Unexpectedly, we have to move to Vietnam. The horse is still in Chiang Mai, but if I can find a good new owner for him I will bring him to Cambodia. “I know of two places to keep a horse in Cambodia, where I have done business but never lived. The Cambodian Country Club in Phnom Penh should be interested in getting such a nice horse for riders, and in Siem Reap, there is a ranch called the Happy Family Ranch. It is actually very well run by a Cambodian man who is passionate about horses. Both places have a relationship with a good vet who I know personally, and this is the reason why I would send Blim to Cambodia and not to Vietnam, as there is no vet I trust there for horses. “And if I cannot find any good place for him, we will fly him to our land in Burgundy with our gorgeous Arabs.” If interested, contact Christine Avril at cavril_leag@yahoo.fr

The Lowdown on Temple Town

JUNE 14 - 20, 2013

Priceless

NEW NEIGHBORHOOD BAR SPREADS CHEERS The push is on to liven up Street 11, and Charlie’s Bar does the job By Miranda Glasser

eapers, unsure of where new bar Charlie’s is located, only have to look for the large, black motorbike hanging above the entrance. The American neighbourhoodstyle bar, which opened earlier this month, is co-owned by long-term expat biking enthusiast Charlie Kumar, and Alex Sutherland who also coowns The Sun and Café Central. With its exposed brick walls, retro advertising memorabilia like the litup Coca Cola sign and a pinball machine, Charlie’s feels like a little piece of Americana right in the heart of Temple Town, positioned as it is on a prime corner spot opposite The Sun restaurant. Its owners agree that they wanted to do something different on the Siem Reap bar scene. Charlie’s is situ-

Co-owners Alex Sutherland and Charlie Kumar celebrate the new venue. MIRANDA GLASSER

ated on the site of the former Noodles restaurant, also owned by Sutherland. The duo decided on a whim to convert Noodles into a bar a mere six weeks ago. “I was sitting having a chat with Alex, looking at this place and I said it would be a great corner for a bar,” says Kumar. “One thing led to another and a week later, we took a sledgehammer to it.” Charlie’s features an outdoor seating area with industrial-look tables – two are actually recycled electric cable drums – and chairs that wouldn’t look out of place in a 1950s diner. Inside, the feel is cosy and neon-lit, with a long, copper and wood bar with stool seating. “I just designed it around the kind of neighbourhood bars that people hang out in in places like downtown New York,” says Sutherland. “I wanted to have a mix of furniture.” Adds Kumar, “I wanted it to look different to what we have in town already. We wanted to make it look like a bar bar, you know – you want to be a bar, you look like a bar.” A lot of the furniture and memorabilia comes from items the duo has amassed over the years, from various markets and shops around Southeast Asia. Above the bar is a strangely mesmerising psychedelic clock with

Vintage ads on the wall at Charlie's.

Charlie’s in full swing on opening night.OMAR HAVANA

a rotating yellow, green and red centerpiece. “That clock,” Kumar laughs, “Alex said he had to have it. All our stuff’s from all over the place. We’ve been talking about doing a bar for while now, so every time we see something we like, we pick it up.” Charlie’s aims to cater to tourists and locals alike, with a menu boasting both draft and bottled beer, wine, spirits and perhaps some of the most competitively-priced cocktails in town – mojitos and Cuba libres for just $1.50. “The idea was we build it to make it comfortable and attractive, but we

MIRANDA GLASSER

also try to be cheap,” says Kumar. “Expats are always looking for something different, and the price point appeals to them as well.” The pair plans to serve ‘fun food’ at the bar such as burgers with handcut fries, nachos and Caesar salad as well as a couple of Khmer dishes. Charlie’s will be open from 8am to also catch the breakfast crowd. As for the giant Honda Steed motorbike hanging above the door, this is a nod to Kumar’s passion. “I like the look of these bikes,” he says, “I bought it to basically just leave parked outside, as a feature. I wanted to paint a logo on it. And then

we had a different idea for outside. We were both standing and looking up at this spot and I joked to Alex that maybe we should just stick that bike up there and he agreed. The next day we put it up.” Kumar says that with Pub St historically being the main bar hub, he’s keen to liven up Street 11. “This street didn’t have life and energy before,” he says. “The two main restaurants here are pretty much Café Central and The Sun, so we want to try and bring some life into this street.” Charlie’s is open from 8am until 1am, seven days a week..

A conspiracy against photographers By Dave Perkes Having been a regular visitor to Angkor for well over a decade I have seen many changes here. When I first came here to live in 2003, Angkor had 250,000 visitors. Now in 2013 the projected visitor numbers are approaching 3 million – that is as many in one month than for the whole year 10 years ago. The numbers of visitors and the important health and safety issues have meant that a lot of potentially dangerous structures at the temples have had to be stabilised by timber

supports. Large scale restoration projects have been carried out to ensure the preservation of the temples for future generations. Rotten trees have had to be chopped down, walkways and steps have been added for both the comfort of the visitor and, more importantly, to preserve the fragile sandstone against the damage caused by millions of tourists’ feet. All this has detracted from the visual impact of these fabulous monuments. Several years ago an Australian photographer friend described these restoration projects as a conspiracy against photographers. I tried to ex-

The new fence that mars photographers views of the famous Tomb Raider temple tree.DAVE PERKES

plain that these were necessary to preserve the temples. But last week I have seen one of the most stunning and popular views obscured by insensitive placement of a wooden fence. The lower part of the so-called Tomb Raider tree in Ta Pro-

A frustrated photographer vents his angst at Ta Prohm.DAVE

PERKES

hm has now been totally obscured by this fence, pictured here a few days after its construction. I am asking myself the question. Why have they done such an insensitive thing, spoiling the views of millions of tourists? I saw a number of tourists with camer-

as looking so disappointed to see such a dream view despoiled. I do hope that the Apsara Authority reconsiders the position of this fence and its associated platform repositioned so that the original view is restored.

Siem Reap Insider

Man About Town Peter Olszewski HOTEL ASSOCIATION PRESIDENT RETURNED Emmett McHenry, the ebullient general manager of Sokha Angkor Resort, has done a Barack Obama – he’s been voted in for a second term in the presidency. In Emmett’s case, he returns as president of the Siem Reap chapter of the Cambodian Hotel Association, after first being voted back on the board. Having been voted as president in Siem Reap automatically makes him vice-president of the Association in Phnom Penh, where he serves under the presidency of Luu Meng. The Association’s Siem Reap chapter has dramatically boosted its membership numbers, and now represents 24 hotels. Before, the Association only dealt with 5-star hotels – but it has broadened its scope and in a recent initiative members were recruited from 3 and 4-star hotels. BLOOD DRIVE SUCCESS The Loy9 Blood Drive featured in last week’s Siem Reap Insider exceeded organiser’s hopes and targets. The Angkor Hospital for Children was hoping for 50 donors but attracted 61 donors, including 55 Khmers and six westerners. The hospital was particularly pleased with the large number of Khmer donors as the promotional push behind the drive was to convince Khmer people to overcome their prejudices and donate. Meanwhile, the Siem Reap Provincial Hospital also reported healthy donor figures – 61 people donated blood. TRAVEL MARTS SCHEDULED Siem Reap is set to become part of the booming travel mart scene, which will bring large numbers of influential guests to town, hopefully during the low season. TTR Weekly reported on June 7 that Cambodia is planning to start its own annual travel mart, possibly as early as 2014 according to ministry of tourism officials who were attending the Thailand Travel Mart. Prak Vuth, Cambodian Ministry of Tourism marketing and promotion office chief in charge of Asean markets, apparently said that the ministry was studying options. He was quoted by TTR as saying, “ The event will have to be annual, a trade show for international tour operators…We were thinking to hold it end of this year but that is not be possible because we have the sea festival to organise too.” But unlike travel marts in Thailand and Vietnam, the Cambodia mart will not promote the region, but concentrate solely on promoting Cambodia. TTR also reported that the Pacific Asia Travel Association will host its annual travel mart in Siem Reap in September 2014, the first time a major trade show has been hosted in the World Heritage town. Halona Padiachy, manager of communications for the Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA), confirmed that the trade show would take place in Siem Reap next year. She told Man About, “PATA has confirmed the Ministry of Tourism, Cambodia as the host country for our annual PATA Travel Mart in 2014.” She added that her organisation is “in the very early stages of planning,” hence details of precise dates, venues, content etc., aren’t available at the moment. HOW MANY TOURISTS ARE TOO MANY? TTR Weekly also gleaned interesting data at the Thailand Travel Mart, reporting that this year the Cambodian Ministry of Tourism expects tourist arrivals to reach 4 million, up from 3.5 million in 2012. It projects seven million visits by 2020. TTR Weekly noted, “At the present market share ratio, 4 million of those visits would go to Siem Reap and the balance through Phnom Penh.” Meanwhile, last month Cambodia’s statistics and tourist information department reported that tourist arrivals had registered an 18.3 percent growth in March, compared to the same month in 2012. This equated to 382,206 visits in March 2013, of which Siem Reap, unsurprisingly, nabbed the major share with 214,746 tourists, or 56.2 per cent of all arrivals. This represented an increase in tourism for Siem Reap of 8.1 per cent.

The Red Piano Restaurant Siem Reap is looking for a western chef · Reliable · Experience in Cambodia a Plus Send CV to Geertcaboor@online.com.kh

THE PHNOM PENH POST Siem Reap insider JUNE 14 - 20, 2013

Adventure driver arrives in town in a “stupid car.” By Peter Olszewski

en Coombs, unpacking his travel gear from his little red Corvette parked outside Ivy Guesthouse, said the first thing he’d be doing in Siem Reap was to see Angkor Wat at dawn. “But I won’t drive there, I’ll take a tuk tuk,” he said, adding, “To be honest I’m a bit sick of driving.” And fair enough because he was, after all, unpacking gear from his car fresh from driving from the UK, a journey of over 18,000 kilometres that saw him travel from London to France, Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Hungary, Romania, Moldova, Ukraine, Russia, Kazakhstan, China, Laos, Thailand and into Cambodia via Siem Reap. He spent a few days in town resting up, and trying to nut out how he would complete his mission, dubbed ‘V8 Nam – The drive of 2013’, to actually arrive in his final destination, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. The drive had presented few problems, but getting

permission to take his vehicle into Vietnam was the bureaucratic mess he was trying to sort out. He encountered minimal mechanical problems during his epic drive – but the major problems he had faced were red-tape nightmares of being able to enter and leave countries in his vehicle, and border problems in China had been particularly challenging. Ben Coombs, a former marine surveyor from Plymouth UK, is an adventure driver specialising in doing long treks in “inappropriate cars” in tandem with other drivers such as Anthony Neville and Laura Reddin. “It’s a tradition of ours,” Ben told Insider, “Seven years ago we did the Mongol Rally in inappropriate cars. We took two Minis to Mongolia, and that sort of set the scene. We’ve been doing these sort of trips ever since.” “The last big trip Laura and I did was in late 2008, when we drove an old classic Porsche from England to South Africa, a trip that took 62 days and resulted in 27

Laura Reddin and Ben Coombs take some much-valued time out in Siem Reap. PETER OLSZEWSKI

breakdowns.” For this England-Vietnam trip, Ben’s vehicle of choice was a 1990 5.7 litre V8 which he purchased for $6,000. While driver Laura Reddin joined him in the Corvette for a portion of the trip, Ben did most of the trek driving in tandem with friend and coadventurer Anthony Neville who was equipped with a 1997 Rolls Royce Silver Shadow 11. But Anthony dropped out of the trip in Luang Prabang, Laos where he sold his Roller. “Anthony was in convoy with me for almost all of the trip,” Ben said,” But in Laos he was made an offer he couldn’t refuse. He sold the Rolls Royce to an hotelier and it will now be used as an airport shuttle taxi.” Ben said that both the Corvette and the Rolls Royce had been “surprisingly reliable” during the trek, in contrast with his South African journey which had been marred with numerous breakdowns. “The only problem we had with the Corvette was with electronics, and I also had to replace two rear tyres in

Thailand. With the Rolls Royce, we had some problems with the exhaust manifold and that was it.” Ben and his friends finance their own journeys and don’t even bother approaching major sponsors. Ben said major sponsorship comes with too many restrictions and he likes to drive as he pleases. He added, “Plus we drive stupid cars that possibly won’t make the trip, so it’s hard to find sponsors.” But Ben’s Corvette was sporting a sponsor logo for something called “Dewerstone.” This, said Ben, is his own company, an adventure clothing company that he plans to launch on his return to his hometown Plymouth in the Old Dart. It’s no point asking Ben why he engages in these long treks in seemingly inappropriate vehicles – it’s obvious that he does it simply because he can, and that he enjoys it. His co-driver Laura said the reason she goes along for the ride is, “Because it’s great. It’s a total adventure and a great way to see new places.”

NGO plans mini-Olympics after successful soccer games By Miranda Glasser NGO Globalteer plans to stage a ‘mini-Olympics’ involving different NGOs in Siem Reap this year, on the back of a successful soccer tournament. Globalteer sports coordinator Charlie Pomroy said, “We’ll do a mini-Olympics at each different NGO, and teach them all these different sports, all the athletics. We’ll do some funny silly races too, and high jump, long jump, triple jump.” Globalteer marketing manager Simon Hare said it’s not a problem if players talents veer more towards the sackrace than the shot put, because there will be something for everyone. The ambitious plan follows a successful soccer outing in May, when Globalteer’s junior league football teams competed for the first time in a national competition. During the two-day football tournament at Siem Reap’s soccer stadium, the league’s

The captain of Globalteer’s victorious under-11s team holds his trophy aloft. SUSANNA MOUMAR

teams played against local state schools plus teams from Poipet. Eight teams were involved: four from assorted NGOs in the Globalteer Soccer League, two from Siem Reap state schools and two from NGOs in Poipet. There were four undereleven teams and four underfourteens.

Charlie Pomroy said the tournament was born out of a meeting with Pip Miner from Poipet-based NGO Christian Care for Cambodia, who is also involved with the Sports and Leadership Training Academy in Battambang. Tournament matches were played over May 13-14, with the finals held on Tuesday May

14. About 120 children took part, with 60 of them coming from Globalteer. The youngest player was eight years old. Pomroy said that despite the heat, the kids loved it. “It went really, really well,” he said. “Globalteer had two under-11 teams, a blue team and a yellow team. Our blue team finished bottom of the group unfortunately, but our yellow team won that tournament. With the under-14s again we had blue and yellow teams. Our yellow team came third, and our blue team won all three of its round robin games but lost the final to Poipet two-nil.” Pip Miner was also delighted with how the tournament went, and that the games were played fairly and competitively. “Football builds team-work, discipline and confidence in players,” she said. “There are many talented footballers in Cambodia, and tournaments such as these give young players an opportunity to test their abilities against other strong players.”

JUNE 14 - 20, 2013 Siem Reap insider THE PHNOM PENH POST

Siem Reap Insider

NGO turns over new leaf with café By Miranda Glasser

café and bookshop stocking 3,000 titles will open this month just off River Road, near the Old Market overlooking Wat Preah Prom Rath. The New Leaf Book Café is a not-for-profit business and will support local NGOs, as well as hold regular exhibitions and evenings. The literary coffee shop is the brainchild of investment banker Ian Croft and fellow Brit Georgina Hemingway who met in Siem Reap in January. Hemingway had volunteered in Siem Reap three years ago with NGO Cambodian Children’s House of Peace, a children’s home which provides education and healthcare, and returned there earlier this year. “Georgina wanted to see what she could do to get more funding for the Children’s House and that’s when she met Ian,” says events and PR coordinator Lana Lee, “They decided they should start up something to give it a stable income.” The original plan was a to open a bookshop, but when Croft and Hemingway found the three-storey French colonial-style building off River Road, they realised there was enough space for a café as well. Croft and Hemingway also started asking people to donate books and conducted book collections in Singapore, China, and the UK. “At the moment we’ve got 3000 books on their way, all donated and they should arrive here in the next week or two,” says Lee. “The idea is that the books are all second hand and we’ll sell them for quite a low price. People can also do book swaps, or give a little donation.” In addition, the café will stock books by

Events and PR coordinator Lana Lee with cafe manager Josh Robinson, outside the cafe site. MIRANDA GLASSER

Sipar, a French-Cambodian NGO working towards tackling illiteracy and developing school libraries in Cambodia. Sipar also publishes educational books for children and young adults in Khmer, and Croft and Hemingway have purchased some of their publications. On the food side, New Leaf Book Café will be open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, serving a combination of western and homegrown Khmer food. “We want to source everything locally,” says Lee. “All the produce will be from around Siem Reap or in the countryside. Our head chef is very good – we’re lucky to have him because he has worked all over Cambodia, abroad, and in 5-star restaurants. “He has a lot of ideas, and what he wants to do is to bring back authentic Khmer recipes. His grandma, who is about 90 years

old, is always saying the fish amok they serve in restaurants these days is not real fish amok, so the chef wants to bring back real traditional recipes.” The ground floor of the building will house the café and bookshop, the first floor will contain offices space for volunteers, while the top floor will provide an exhibition space with a rooftop area which the owners hope to use for talks, film screenings, concerts and readings. “There will also be an area where we’ll have some kind of notice-board for NGOs to display their information, as well as artwork from the Small Art School,” says Lee. “It will be a fluid space – we are thinking about holding talks, book readings and presentations by NGOs. Any kind of thing that promotes culture, and to raise awareness about the work that NGOs do.” As well as funding Cambodian Children’s House of Peace, Hemingway and Croft plan to use New Leaf’s profits to help other local NGOs. One of the café’s first collaborations will be with the Build Your Future Today Center, which supports local communities through education, healthcare and business skills training. “We’re having an event with Build Your Future Today Center, probably in mid-July,” says Lee, “The BFT Center goes out to rural communities and sets up a community centre there. It also trains farmers. So we want to have them come to the café and give a talk about what they’re doing and at the same time have this really nice 3-course dinner where all the food is sourced from their farms.” New Leaf Book Café is set to open in late June 2013

Youth Forum promotes

conservation

By Thik Kaliyann The World Heritage Youth Forum kicked off in Siem Reap on Sunday June 9, to raise awareness of heritage protection among youth and to give an opportunity to exchange ideas on how to become involved in heritage, said Hun Many, chairman of the Union of Youth Federations of Cambodia. He added, “The forum will also be a platform for experience sharing, recognition and appreciation of cultural diversity whereby the universal value of the world heritage is observed.” The five-day forum, themed, "Living Heritage: Temple, Environment and People", brought together youths from 16 countries, according to a joint statement from the Union of Youth Federations of Cambodia, the Cambodian National Commission for Unesco, and the Apsara Authority. Twenty Cambodian youth delegates attended, together with 18 international youth delegates from the 16 represented countries. Hun Many said the youth delegates had the opportunity to present their own national heritage to the forum and were able to discuss this with distinguished experts, as well as visiting sites in Angkor Park. Tan Theany, secretary general of Cambodian National Commission for UNESCO said that it was of great interest to have made participants aware of their responsibilities regarding conservation and protection of national and world heritage. Bun Narith, the director general of Apsara Authority, said delegates learned about the management of the Angkor site, where temples, environment and people “coexist harmoniously.” At the close of the forum, the youth delegates issued a Youth Declaration, and will present this to all delegates at the opening ceremony of the 37th Session of the World Heritage Committee in Phnom Penh on Sunday, June 16.

Entertainment

THE PHNOM PENH POST Siem Reap insider JUNE 14 - 20, 2013

What’s on FRIDAY 14 KNOCK OUT POOL COMP Free entry, winner takes home a $30 food and drinks voucher. Jungle Junction, High School Road Friday June 14, 7.30pm PARTY NIGHT Elements Bar, Pub Street. Friday, Saturday, Sunday June 7:30pm

Saturday June 15, 7:30pm LADYBOY REVUE Linga Bar, Pub Street. Saturday June 15, 10:30pm SHOW SPECTACULAR Show spectacular featuring ladyboys and Khmer comedy. The Station Bar, Street 7, Old Market area. Saturday June 15, 9pm

LADYBOY REVUE Linga Bar, Pub Street. Friday June 14, 10:30pm

SUNDAY 16

LADYBOY REVUE The Station Bar, Street 7, Old Market area. Friday June 14, 9:30pm

PHARE THE CAMBODIAN CIRCUS – ART WORKSHOP (See Saturday) Phare the Cambodian Circus, behind National Museum Sunday June 16, 4pm – 5pm

LIVE MUSIC WITH CANAPES Victoria Angkor Resort and Spa Friday June 14, 5pm to 7pm

SATURDAY15 ISSR SUMMER FAIR The annual ISSR Summer Fair 2013 – free entry and open to all. Food, drinks, stalls, bouncy castles, exhibits, face painting and loads of fun games and activities for kids. . Win awesome prizes in the raffle in support of Angkor Hospital for Children's Capacity Building and Health Education Program, "Education in Kantoo Village". ISSR, Wat Damnak area, before Quad Adventure Saturday June 15, 11am – 3pm ALL BLACKS V FRANCE Watch the second clash in the 2013 Steinlager Series LIVE. Can France beat the All Blacks to make it 1-1 going into the final game? Rosy Guesthouse, East River Road Saturday June 15, 2:30pm PHARE THE CAMBODIAN CIRCUS – ART WORKSHOP Circus workshop under the big top. You love the show, why not try it yourself? Learn basic circus skills with an artist from Phare. Minimum age: 7 years. Price: $6 including a water or soft drink. Please wear sportswear clothing. For bookings please contact: ticketing@pharecambodiancircus. org or call: 092 225 320/321 or 015 499 480 Phare the Cambodian Circus, behind National Museum Saturday June 15, 4pm – 5pm KARAOKE MAYHEM Can’t sing? We don’t care! Back again by popular demand, ruin your favourite tunes from 10pm. Warehouse, Old Market area Saturday June 15, 10pm SUPER SATURDAY 50% discount on food Soria Moria Boutique Hotel, Wat Bo road. Saturday June 15 12 – 8pm LADIES NIGHT Free glass of sparkling wine Elements Bar, Pub Street.

CHILL OUT SUNDAY Mystic Humour by Yogi Yasha; Buddhist mystical alleged humour. The evening also features Graham on sax playing a set. European Guesthouse Sunday June 16, 7.30pm WINE NIGHT Special offers for wine lovers. 25% discount on all wine, 50% on selected wines. Soria Moria Boutique Hotel, Wat Bo road. Sunday June 16, 12pm – 10pm BBQ POOL PARTY Sunday BBQ including homemade beef sausage, pork chops, chicken and vegetable skewers, jacket potatoes, crispy salad, special home-made sauce and a baguette. The Siem Reap Hostel, 7 Makara Street Wat Damnak Sunday June 16, 4pm - 8pm

MONDAY 17 KHMER LOCAL HANDICRAFT WORKSHOP ON SHOW Please come and join us and discover what the locals have. Apsara Holiday Hotel, National Road 6. Monday, Wednesday, and Friday 7am / Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday 7am and 5pm

TUESDAY 18 LIVE MUSIC AND OPEN MIC NIGHT House guitars available, all instruments welcome. Fresh at Chilli Si-Dang, East River Road Tuesday June 18, 8pm LADIES NIGHT Complimentary glass of sparkling wine and free mini manicure/ pedicure on the Soria Moria rooftop. Soria Moria Boutique Hotel, Wat Bo road. Tuesday June 18, 7pm

WEDNESDAY 19 HAPPY HOUR AT THE MOUY Live music and happy hour drinks between 6 and 9pm The Mouy Resto & Lounge, Prince d’Angkor Hotel Wednesday June 19, 6pm $1 NIGHT All drinks $1, all food $1. Soria Moria Boutique Hotel, Wat Bo road. Wednesday June 19, 5pm – 10pm LIVE PIANO Asana Old Wooden House, The Lane, Pub St area Wednesday June 19, 7pm JAM NIGHT Open mic night, all welcome whether singing or playing a musical instrument. X Bar, end of Pub Street. Wednesday June 19, 8pm THE APSARA TERRACE Outdoor pan-Asian BBQ buffet with classical Khmer dances and Bokator Khmer martial arts. Experience the magic of the Apsara dance in our lush gardens. Traditional music, beautiful dancers, delicious food and a great atmosphere. Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, Vithei Charles de Gaulle. Dinner Commences 7pm Culture Performances 7:45pm Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday LADIES NIGHT Free cocktail for all female customers. Pyramid nightclub, National Road 6A Wednesday June 19, 8:30pm GOLDEN BUTTERFLIES LADY BOY SHOW The Station Bar, Street 7, Old Market area. Wednesday June 19, 9:30pm

THURSDAY 20 OH MY BUDDHA! 50% off all food and drink, buy one get one free. Soria Moria Boutique Hotel, Wat Bo road.

Thursday June 20, 12pm – 10pm LIVE! JAZZ IN THE CITY Saxophone, trombone, piano, guitar Happy hours at the cocktail bar. Dining reservations 077 56 56 22 Heritage Suites, Beside Wat Polanka Thursday June 20, 6:30pm – 9.30pm WEEKLY CHARITY PUB QUIZ Come along and help a local charity helping local people. $1 entry The Warehouse Bar, the Old Market area Thursday June 20, 8pm

ONGOING SWIM, SIP & SAVOUR Swim in our infinity pool in nice quiet surroundings, sip a cocktail prepared by our barman and savour a special dinner. $30 per person. Sala Lodges, Salakomroeuk commune, behind Wat Damnak Every Sunday & Sunday, from 2pm SUNDAY POOL BRUNCH $20 per person, access to the pool included Victoria Angkor Resort & Spa Every Sunday, 10.30am – 2.30pm KHMER COCKTAIL CLASS Learn how to prepare and enjoy your own cocktails in the last wooden house in town. Cost: $10 including 4 cocktails. For bookings please contact: booking@asanacambodia.com or 092 987 801 Asana Old Wooden House, The Lane, Pub St area Daily, 5-7pm HALF PRICE SPECIAL 50% off food. For bookings please contact: +855(0) 63 966 550 / 12 760 448 or email: Bookings@ selantra.com Selantra Restaurant & Lounge Every Sunday, all day FINDING HOME Exhibition of works in progress by resident artist Phok Sopheap. Hotel 1961, River Road Ongoing until June 28 BABEL GUESTHOUSE CLASSES: Zumba with Ti Sam ($8) Mondays & Wednesdays, 6-7pm

Ashtanga yoga ($8) Mondays & Wednesdays, 7-8pm Babel Guesthouse, St 20, off Wat Bo RIVER GARDEN CLASSES: Pilates ($5) Monday and Thursday, 6-7pm PEACE CAFE CLASSES: Yogilates, ashtanga, hatha & restorative yoga: Mon-Fri: 8.30am & 6.30pm, weekends various (For more details check: http:// www.peacecafeangkor.org/ program.htm) Khmer lessons (free): Saturday and Sunday 16:00 – 17.00 Vegetarian cooking class: Every day 11.00 – 13.00 Peace Cafe, Wat Bo Area WEEK-LONG SPECIALS Earlybird Mondays, Tuesdays & Thursdays, 5-7pm: $1 off any main dish Sexy Saturday: Roll The Dice For Your Price: Roll 2 dice and pay the total amount in '000 Riel. Roll a double 6 and your drink is free! Price will always be lower than menu price Hangover Sunday (day) 12-5pm: Bloody Mary for $3. Menu special: Bacon butties and chip butties available Soccer Sunday, 6pm till late: Watch Sunday's double header English football matches on the new projector and enjoy offers on beers and Western food. Monday Madness, 7-9pm: Free Angkor or juice with any rice or noodle dish ordered Two for Tuesday, 8-11pm: 2 for 1 on house cocktails or Angkor draft Toxic Thursday, 8-11pm: House short & mixer, house wine and Blur shot only $2.50 Freaky Friday, 7-11pm: Appetiser Medley only $8. 2 for 1 on all draft beers. House cocktails only $3 Under Construction Bar & Restaurant, Wat Bo Rd ANGKOR BODHI TREE RETREAT & MEDITATION CENTRE CLASSES: Meditation: Every day: 6.30am and 4pm Yoga: Sun - Wed and Friday: 6pm Chill pill class: Thursday & Saturday: 6pm & 8pm. Tuesday 8pm. Angkor Bodhi Tree Retreat & Meditation Centre, Wat Polanka

area VICIOUS CYCLE BIKE RIDE 20-30km bike rides through the countryside. $5 to hire a mountain bike or bring your own. Rides take place most Saturdays but please check on: 012 462 165 or at: http://www.facebook.com/ groups/308395112548010/ Vicious Cycle Bike Shop & Bike Tours, St 26, off Wat Bo Most Saturdays, 8am COOKS IN TUK TUKS Cooking classes. Cost: $25 River Garden Hotel, River Road Daily, 10am LE TIGRE DU PAPIER COOKING CLASS Cost: $13 or $19 Le Tigre du Papier, Pub St Daily, 10am or 1pm AFTERNOON DELIGHT Hot drink and a slice of homemade cake (from the daily selection) for $4.50 Upstairs Café, Wat Bo Road Daily, 3pm – 5pm TRADITIONAL SUNDAY ROAST Meat alternates weekly; chicken, beef or pork plus all the trimmings for $6. Served all day until 6pm. Sister Srey Café, River Road Every Sunday till 6pm SUNDAY ROAST Choice of roast beef or roast stuffed chicken with roast & mashed potato, cauliflower cheese, seasonal vegetables & gravy. Price is inclusive of one free beer. $8. Molly Malone’s, Pub St Every Sunday, 12 – 10pm ‘LET THERE BE ROCK’ NIGHT Featuring the X-Rays live; covering Jimi Hendrix, Metallica, AC-DC and much more. Bar food available all night. X Bar, end of Pub St Every Tuesday and Thursday, 7pm – 12am LADIES NIGHT PROMOTION Buy one get one free on selected cocktails. Island Bar, Angkor Night Market. Every Wednesday and Saturday 4pm till late LADIES NIGHT All cocktails buy 1 get 1 free. Picasso, Alley West Every Wednesday 6pm