The Tomato Food and Drink May June 2019

Take a bite of your city | May June 2019 | thetomato.ca

The Wine Issue Montilla-Moriles and the Magic of Pedro XimĂŠnez Fridge Door Wines Wedding Cake Blues

NEW DATES FOR 2019

CULINARY BOOT CAMPS

PREPARE FOR YOUR NEXT CULINARY ADVENTURE!

NAIT’s Culinary Boot Camps reveal the secrets to cooking and baking like a pro through hands-on practice, lectures and demonstrations in our state-of-the-art kitchens. Get your culinary skills in shape through lessons on planning, preparation and flavour pairings. Learn from NAIT’s celebrated chefs.

Enrol now for June boot camps.

PASTRY BOOT CAMP [BAKG330] | Mon – Fri | June 17-21 Fee: $1,475 (+ $500 material fees)

CULINARY BOOT CAMP [CULG305] | Tue – Fri | June 18-21 Fee: $1025 (+ $400 material fees)

Call NAIT at 780.471.6248 or register online at nait.ca/bootcamp

A LEADING POLYTECHNIC COMMITTED TO YOUR SUCCESS

Contents Editor Mary Bailey marybee@telus.net

Features

Publisher BGP Publishing

Copy Editor Shauna Faragini

Contributing Writers Peter Bailey Jan Hostyn Morris Lemire Amanda LeNeve Myles Mellor

Illustration/Photography Curtis Comeau Amy Dixon Gerry Rasmussen

Amanda and Amy visit Bodegas Alvear | Amanda LeNeve

10 A Classic Pairing Sauvignon Blanc and asparagus | Mary Bailey

16 Wedding Cake Blues Adventures in baking | Jan Hostyn

Design and Prepress

26 Fridge Door Wines What we want to drink right now

Bossanova Communications Inc.

WebMeister

Departments

Gunnar Blodgett, COPA Jurist

Printer

6 Montilla-Moriles and the Magic of Pedro Ximénez

5 Dish Gastronomic happenings around town

Distribution Greenline Distribution For editorial inquiries, information, letters, suggestions or ideas, contact The Tomato at 780.431.1802 or email marybee@telus.net.

For advertising information call 780.431.1802.

Lisa and Rosario Caputo, Cibo Bistro

by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780.431.1802

18 Beer Guy The wind that shakes the barley | Peter Bailey

The Tomato is published six times per year: January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December

14 The Proust Culinary Questionnaire

20 Wine Maven Mary Bailey

24 Feeding People The ordinary, yet extraordinary chive | Morris Lemire

28 Kitchen Sink What’s new and notable

30 The Crossword Myles Mellor

Subscriptions are available for $25 per year. thetomato.ca On the cover: art by Amy Dixon.

Celebrating Edmonton’s

20 YEARS

Food Culture Since 1996 The Tomato | May June 2019 3

CELEBRATING EST.

60

1959

YEARS

We don’t kid around about coffee.

In our shops, we grind and serve tens of thousands of kilograms of Italian coffee beans to fuel the morning drive to work, much deserved afternoon breaks and to accompany a little dolce in the evening. With over 30 brands from all over the world - we take our beloved café VERY seriously and serve every espresso, cappuccino and latte with pride.

Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.

Italiancentre.ca EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End

CALGARY Willow Park

Fox Tower • 10228-104 Street • bundokyeg.com • @bundokyeg

SERVING ALBERTANS

Modern Canadian Cuisine

Dish

gastronomic happenings around town

farm to table eating with rge rd

Mary Bailey photo

RGE RD continues its series of farmto-table dinners with seven dates this summer, beginning with a dinner at Gold Forest Grains, Sunday, July 7 and ending with a dinner at Prairie Gardens (one of four), Sunday, September 8. Dinner at Nature’s Green Acres (the original RGE RD farm dinner) is Wednesday, August 17, and, there is a dinner at Riverbend Gardens on Sunday, July 21. The dinners are multicourse, served familystyle with wine pairings and always, some surprizes. Find a way to go to at least one. They are magical affairs celebrating the bonds between farmer and chef and anyone who loves homegrown food. Tix: $165+/p, eventbrite. ca/d/canada--edmonton/rge-rd.

NAIT’s Hokanson Chef in Residence program was made possible by a generous donation from John and Susan Hokanson. The program provides students with a rare opportunity to learn firsthand from the best chefs in North America.

hearty and rustic food for hikes at maligne canyon

market bounty on the south side

Maligne Canyon Wilderness Kitchen by Pursuit

Look out for the new European-style, indoor, multi-day farmers’ market opening in June near 99 Street and 34 Avenue. The Bountiful Farmers’ Market plans to have its grand opening the weekend of June 21-23 with a cheerful celebration of local culture and food—chef demos, kids programming, cultural happenings, giveaways. Vendors we know of so far include Strathcona Spirits, Fieldstone Fruit Wines, Blindman Brewing, Irvings Farm Fresh, Delton Sausage, The Farmhouse Bakery, Arno’s, Riverbend Gardens. Check out Bountiful’s Instagram as they are announcing vendors pretty much daily. Plan to visit June 21-23, tons of parking.

Mary Bailey photo

nait chef in residence is vancouver’s david hawksworth David Hawksworth is a power chef. He rubs shoulders with the best in Canada and beyond; people listen to what he has to say. And he says Canadian chefs are underappreciated. What to do? Increase skills and visibility. In 2013, he launched the Hawksworth Young Chef Scholarship Foundation, which runs an annual culinary competition for young chefs across Canada.

The winner receives $10,000 and a chance to

stage (apprentice) at a restaurant of his or her choice.

“There is not a lot of help for young chefs. It’s hard from them to be noticed,” he says. “The competition puts young chefs in front of a lot of people, chefs like Norman Laprise (Toqué! Montreal).” This April chef Hawksworth was the 11th chef in residence at NAIT. He spent the week with the culinary students, coaching, refining technique and helping them grow a bigger vision. Words of wisdom: “To be a cook needs to be more prestigious than it is. Cooks should have to get their Red Seal to work in professional kitchens.

You have to be a journeyman to be an electrician, so why not a higher standard for professional cooks?

Be aware of how physical the job is. Do you ever see a cook sitting down?”

The Maligne Canyon Wilderness Kitchen is now open summer hours, 8am-10pm daily, until September 30.

Expect hearty and rustic—bison burgers, canyon poutine, pulled pork, grilled venison sausage, gardener’s flatbread—all served family style. There is a grab and go, if you just want to pick something up for the drive home after the hike. On Saturday nights, take the free shuttle from Jasper townsite or JPL.

new ready to drink cocktails from eau Claire Turner Valley’s Eau Claire Distillery is adding two new cocktails to its canned craft cocktail line up. Along with their gin and tonic, you can now try the Cherry Gin Collins and the EquineOx Mule. All use local southern Alberta ingredients, such as cherries, Saskatoon berries, prickly pear cactus and Eau Claire’s spirits, made with local barley, adding a unique prairie twist to the category.

“We wanted to create a family of canned cocktails that were refreshing and easily enjoyable for all your summer adventures,” said Eau Claire’s master distiller, Caitlin Quinn. We like the lower alcohol (six per cent) too. Sold in 355 ml cans, $14.50 per four pack.

From top: the RGE RD team plate a farm-to-table dinner; artist’s rendering of the new Bountiful Farmers’ Market; chefs David Hawksworth (L), NAIT 2019 chef in residence and Nigel Webber, NAIT culinary instructor; Wilderness Kitchen’s hearty offerings; canned spirits from Eau Clair.

The Tomato | May June 2019 5

Montilla-Moriles and the Magic of Pedro Ximénez AMANDA AND AMY VISIT BODEGAS ALVEAR

6 May June 2019 | The Tomato

SOUTHERN SPAIN HAS MANY CHARMS. THE SUNSHINE. THE GRACEFUL MOORISH ARCHITECTURE. THE MESMERIZING SOUNDS AND MOVEMENTS OF FLAMENCO. THE MOUTHWATERING CUISINE. And, of course, if you’re a wine geek like me, there’s lots to discover.

This part of the world is well known for its Sherry production centering around the town of Jerez de la Frontera. But, if you head east from Seville there’s a wine region called Montilla-Moriles which produces similar fortified wines, with a character and spirit unto itself.

Amanda LeNeve

That’s where we were headed.

My Spanish holiday was short and focused on visiting my friend Amy, who had been spending the year traveling and painting (that’s her painting on the cover!) and was living in Seville at the time. It didn’t take much convincing, and she agreed to join me on a special wine-focused excursion—a visit to Bodegas Alvear.

Early one morning, we got in a rental car and made our way from Seville to Montilla. It was a beautiful morning.

You know the kind when it’s going to be a hot day, but the air still feels dewy and crisp and the sky is bright blue? Even the ditches along the highway were pretty, lined with colourful flowering bushes.

I was excited to see some vineyards and experience wines and a winemaking style I didn’t have much experience with. It was going to be a great day.

All photos Amy Dixon

Bodegas Alvear is probably the most established producer in this region—not only has it stayed in production longer than any other in Andalucia, but it has also remained in the Alvear family for eight generations.

Maria Alvear belongs to the current generation of Alvears running the business and was our spirit guide on this trip. Spending the day with her, touring the vineyards, learning the history of the bodega and tasting the full range of Alvear’s mouthwatering nectars, gave me an incredible appreciation for what they Amanda LeNeve (L) and Maria Alvear in a Bodegas Alvear vineyard.

do (and what they’ve been doing for literally centuries).

The region of Montilla-Moriles is where the Pedro Ximénez (PX) grape thrives.

PX is especially known for its ability to produce extraordinarly luscious dessert wines. Alvear is a master at making it shine in its many forms. Their wines are made using flor (a naturally occurring yeast that forms a barrier between wine and the air) and are aged in solera.

My crash course in Pedro Ximénez reminded me a lot of a trip to Germany a few years ago. We tasted more than 200 Rieslings, which sounds boring, but so wasn’t. I was continually surprised by how versatile Riesling was, the number of different things you could do with it and the way it expresses its terroir.

And every style provided a thoughtprovoking experience with food.

Our tasting at Alvear gave me the same feelings. Each style we tasted expressed itself so differently than the one before.

The flavours and aromas are intriguing and complex—salty and bitter, bright and juicy. My mouth still waters thinking about the lunch we shared with Maria alongside a glass of Alvear’s Fino.

The tastes of PX stay with me today, much like the Rieslings of Germany.

The solera aging and blending process is a cool—and ancient—process in which new wine is gradually blended with old wine. In this system, barrels are organized according to the age of the wine inside and the wine is gradually moved and blended through the system.

It helps to guarantee the quality and balance the yield of the product year over year.

And the aromas! Rich with dried fruit and caramel, the aromas in the solera were similar to some of the flavours you find in aged PX. Maria also introduced us to a new project called Tres Miradas. These are non-fortified wines meant to express and celebrate the character of special vineyard sites and are not exposed to solera aging and blending. Each year, grapes from specially selected vineyards are made in three different styles. Each wine really gives you an appreciation for how the grape and terroir can express itself in such different ways.

Continued on next page

The Tomato | May June 2019 7

A part of the solera at Alvear.

Inset: Tinajas used for fermentation.

Montilla Continued from previous page

Seeing where and how the grapes will become wine is an important part of any winery visit. You get a sense of the soil the vines are grown in, the views the grapes have as they mature, and how the vines are managed. All of these things have a big impact on how a wine will taste.

On our trip to the vineyard, we were met with views of softly rolling hills that seemed to go on forever. Though the ground is chalky white and the climate

8 May June 2019 | The Tomato

is hot, the vines were vibrantly green and dotted the landscape around us.

My memories of this visit are technicoloured—both in sight and taste.

Those vineyard views set against a bright blue sky, the engaging flavours of Alvear’s wines, the ham and salmorejo (tomato dish of the area) we ate for lunch, and of course time with a good friend made this a day I won’t soon forget and hope to relive someday soon.

Amanda and Amy enjoy driving around Spain in cheap, delivery-van style rental cars and frolicking in sunflower fields.

Comfort food created from scratch and made with love

BODEGAS ALVEAR IN ALBERTA New to the market is the Brandy Gran Reserva, rich and pungent with a long nutty finish.

The Gran Reserva has aged 25 years in the solera system.

The Alvear Fino Capataz Solera de la Casa not only has a cool label, it’s tangy and refreshingly dry, Full bodied and savoury, drink chilled as an aperitif, with tapas or have with lunch à la Amanda.

Gin cocktails, craft beer Gluten free & vegetarian features 9514-87 St.

Edmonton

780-490-6799

juniperbistro.com

Alvear Pedro Ximenez Solera 1927 Deep mahogany coloured with aromas and flavours of dates, raisins, figs and honey with refreshing acidity to balance the luscious sweetness and a minerally finish.

Where all the best parties happen.

780.757.7704 kitchenbybrad.ca #101, 10130 - 105 Street

780-757-2426 • cibobistro.com 11244 – 104 Avenue in Oliver Village

Chef Levi Biddlecombe

Red Door, Second Floor.

8534 109 street, 2nd floor (beside upper crust) • 780-297-5757 • whynoteat.ca

The Tomato | May June 2019 9

A Classic Pairing Sauvignon Blanc and Asparagus — Mary Bailey —

Five wines with five easy asparagus recipes—now, that’s how to celebrate spring.

Asparagus is not wine friendly. It’s all because of asparagusic acid, an organosulfurcarboxylic acid (wow, don’t get to throw words like that that around every day) which can make wine taste metallic or just plain awful. The worst? Wines with tannin, wine with overt oak, most reds.

Riesling and other whites can pull it off, but nothing shines with asparagus like Sauvignon Blanc. The acidity and herbaceousness (the green herby aromas that saavy has in spades) works with the sulphury bitter notes of the asparagus, highlighting the energetic fresh, green flavours of the vegetable.

This month Edgar Farms asparagus will start showing up at the markets, sometimes, only a few hours old. How best to enjoy that bounty? Here’s five recipes chosen to pair with a different style of Sauvignon Blanc.

10 May June 2019 | The Tomato

peeler to shave the spears into long strips but leave the tips whole. Toss shavings and asparagus tips in the dressing. Add radishes if using and turn on to two plates. Grate Parm over or add a dollop of soft goat cheese.

Serves 2.

Shaved Asparagus Salad with Cedar Creek Sauvignon Blanc (Okanagan Valley, Canada) This is why we love the asparagus from down the road—it’s so fresh and good you can eat it raw. Feel free to add a poached egg and chunky croutons to make it a meal.

Cedar Creek’s Estate saavy is delicious—hints of lime and grapefruit in the aromas and flavours, with lovely acidity, a gentle spirit and lots of fresh green herbaceousness to go head to head with the raw asparagus.

12 thin asparagus spears, cleaned and trimmed squeeze fresh lemon juice (or orange if you don’t have lemon) a long drizzle extra-virgin olive oil (about ¼ c) sea or kosher salt and freshly-cracked black pepper 3-4 radishes sliced thin (if you have) shaved or grated Parmigiano or goat cheese

Make the vinaigrette. Squeeze lemon juice into a mixing bowl, add oil, salt and pepper and whisk to emulsify. Taste, it may need more oil or more juice, but it should be citrusy. Use a vegetable

Pasta Primavera with Greywacke Wild Ferment Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand) This simple pasta dish uses a combination of the earliest vegetables available in spring— asparagus, peas and spring onions—making it a true celebration of the season. If you can’t find good fresh English peas, you can substitute frozen peas, but don’t add them until the last minute or so. This dish is best made with fresh egg pasta. If you don’t want to make your own, the Italian Centre sells fresh tagliatelle. Don’t overcook! Better under than overdone—you need the chewy bite to stand up to the gently cooked vegetables. It’s important to have everything ready to go as the dish comes together quickly.

The intense greenness of this dish along with the creamy sauce needs a wine that stands up to both and complements the flavours. The Greywacke does this in style. Elegant, complex, and flavourful, with stony minerality, full body and a distinct texture, along with a good amount of acidity, cuts through the creaminess to make this wine a perfect match.

Continued on next page

The Tomato | May June 2019 11

A Classic Pairing

12-16 spears asparagus

Continued from previous page

extra virgin olive oil

1 sm bunch asparagus, ends snapped

4-6 shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano

¼ lb sugar snap peas, stems trimmed

Place spears in a shallow bowl and pour over 1-2 teaspoons of extra virgin olive oil. Toss gently with tongs (or your hands) to coat each spear. Place on a medium-hot grill crosswise and grill for about 10 minutes (depending on the size and thickness of the stalks) turning occasionally. The skin will blister slightly and turn brown in spots, which is good, but watch the tips for charring. Place on a platter, finish with Maldon salt and fresh-cracked black pepper and place shavings on top of the spears. Serve warm or at room temperature.

¾ c fresh peas (or frozen small peas) ¼ c spring onion, white part only, thinly sliced 2 T

unsalted butter

2 cloves garlic, chopped fine fine sea salt and cracked black pepper 12 oz fettuccine or tagliatelle, preferably fresh* ¼ c grated ParmigianoReggiano ½ c crème fraîche or whole milk yogurt, at room temperature

Serves 4-6.

White Bordeaux differ from their cousins in that they usually have a good portion of Semillon in the wine and also spend some time in wood. G is barrel fermented and aged in oak, not to add wood flavours, but to create layers of complexity, flavour and texture. It’s a lovely example of the style, still crisp and fresh, with some gravitas and depth compared to some new world saavy.

To blanch asparagus: Bring a medium pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add asparagus and cook until tender-crisp and bright green, 1½-2 minutes. Do not overcook. Drain, then immediately plunge into a large bowl of ice water; set aside to cool, 2-3 minutes.

Drain again, transfer to a clean dishtowel, pat dry. Set aside.

Hollandaise Sauce 3 lge egg yolks, room temperature

3 T parsley chopped fine

4½ t

3 T finely chopped tarragon chopped fine

12 T unsalted butter, melted and cooled

Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. While the water is coming to a boil, slice snap peas and asparagus stems into ¼-inch-thick pieces; leave asparagus tips whole. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add snap peas, asparagus, peas and onion. Cook until vegetables are barely tender, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and cook about 1 minute more. Season and set aside. Drop pasta into boiling water and cook until al dente (1-3 minutes for fresh pasta (more for dried pasta, according to pasta directions). Drain (leaving a bit of cooking water clinging to the pasta) and transfer pasta back to the pot. Over heat, toss lightly with the crème fraiche or yogurt, cheese, herbs and the cooked vegetables. Another crack of pepper, check if it needs more salt and serve immediately.

Serves 4.

sea or kosher salt and white pepper

Grilled Asparagus with Parmesan Shavings with Emiliana Sauvignon Blanc (Chile)

warm water

Place a pan filled with water on the stove and heat until barely simmering. Pour yolks into a large glass bowl. Whisk until they turn pale, about 1 minute. Whisk in 4½ teaspoon warm water.

Set bowl over the pan filled with barely simmering water and heat the yolk mixture over low heat, whisking vigorously, until thickened, about 2-3 minutes (do not overcook). Remove bowl from heat and whisk in the lemon juice.

This is a relatively simple dish (roast in the oven if you don’t want to grill) that highlights the freshness of local asparagus. You don’t want a wine to overwhelm that, which makes the Emiliana a good choice. It’s bright and lively with excellent acidity. It’s also made from organic grapes and has spent four months on lees to create some nice texture and finish. The aggressive herbaceousness of the spears is toned down with grilling but there is still plenty there to make a match. This saavy is also a fantastic buy, way under $20 in most shops.

Whisk in melted butter, one drop at a time, leaving milky solids behind.

Thick spears are best for grilling. Cut off woody ends if necessary. If you don’t have a cheese knife that can shave, a vegetable peeler will work.

The idea is long thin strips rather than grated cheese.

Asparagus with Hollandaise with Chateau Guiraud G Bordeaux Blanc (France) The most classic way to eat asparagus is with hollandaise sauce, considered one of the French mother sauces—automatically scary for most home cooks. It’s actually really easy to make, but you must pay attention and have a good whisking arm. Have all the ingredients and equipment ready to go. Make it ahead to ease anxiety or make a blender version, but never, ever make from a mix. That would be a disservice to your asparagus.

12 May June 2019 | The Tomato

fresh lemon juice

Pour the hollandaise sauce over the blanched asparagus and serve. If making ahead, set the bowl over warm water, and keep sauce warm, whisking occasionally, up to 30 minutes. If the sauce becomes too thick, whisk in 1 teaspoon of warm water at a time to thin.

Note: you could also serve hollandaise on roasted or grilled asparagus.

2 c

chicken or vegetable stock

2 c mint, coarsely chopped (loosely packed) ¾ c flat-leaf parsley, coarsely chopped (firmly packed) finely grated rind and juice of ½ lemon

crusty white bread

Blanch artichokes, in batches, until just tender (8-10 minutes). Cool slightly, peel away outer green leaves and trim tops by 2 cm, then remove the hairy choke with a teaspoon. Set aside.

Blanch peas and broad beans separately until just tender (2-4 minutes), refresh in iced water, drain. Peel the broad beans and set aside.

La Vignerola (Vegetable Stew) with Sattlerhof Sudsteiermark Sauvignon Blanc (Austria) Austrian Sauvignon Blanc is known for high quality and the impressive elegance of the wines from south Styria—especially from a producer like Sattlerhof. Handmade, incredible balance, just riveting. Its balance and complexity is perfection with this celebration of spring. If you can’t find it in a shop, it’s on the list at Wilfred’s.

Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and prosciutto, and sauté until tender (5-10 minutes). Add the artichoke, asparagus and stock, cover and simmer over low heat until the artichoke is tender (about 5-10 minutes). Add peas and beans, cover and simmer until tender (about 3-5 minutes). Add mint, parsley, lemon rind and juice and cook until herbs wilt (about 1 minute). Drizzle with extra olive oil.

Serve warm with crusty bread and a glass of the Sattlerhof.

Serves 4-6.

Mary Bailey likes her asparagus grilled.

780-705-4928 12539-102 Avenue heartofthehomeyeg.ca

We have a unique Taste From accordion mariachi to crystal decanter class, there’s an event for everyone in our tasting room.

11819 St. Albert Trail | SHERBROOKELIQUOR.COM

This a take-off on a classic Roman dish which is all about spring veg. You can usually find small spring artichokes and fresh broad beans at the Italian Centre. There is a bit of prep, but you could blanch the vegetables in the morning and put together right before serving. Leave out the ham and use vegetable stock if you prefer a vegan dish. You could also add fresh fiddleheads.

1 bunch asparagus, trimmed and halved 8 globe artichokes, stalks trimmed

CHEFSHERIDAN.COM | 780-554-0420 | INSTAGRAM @CHEFSHERIDAN

1 kg (approx.) broad beans (to make about two c podded) same amount of fresh peas, podded, or use frozen small peas 1½ T extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve

4 course in home dinner parties starting at $115 per person - includes hors deouvres and a wine pairing

4 spring onions, thickly sliced 2 cloves

garlic, thinly sliced

6 slices

prosciutto, coarsely torn

The Tomato | May June 2019 13

The Proust Culinary Questionnaire Lisa and Rosario Caputo, Cibo Bistro In the late nineteenth century, French novelist Marcel Proust participated in an exercise which could be thought of as the Facebook of its era—he answered a questionnaire about himself in a friend’s Confession Album.

Proust’s answers have been published, in one form or another, for more than a century. Many have used the questionnaire for their own devices, the most notable being Vanity Fair’s Proust Questionnaire featuring celebrities. The Tomato gives it a culinary twist.

14 May June 2019 | The Tomato

Lisa is front of house, Rosario is back of the house. He’s Calabrese, she’s Hungarian. Together they make magic at the 48-seat restaurant called Cibo Bistro.

The food at Cibo is big-flavoured, generous, tasty, the best kind of rustic.

The wine list is thoughtful, not too long but with everything you want. The service is warm, friendly, skilled.

They were dating when Cibo opened in late 2011. “I went for dinner most nights so I could see Rosario,” says Lisa.

Soon there will be a little Rosa or Rocco running around. That will be the sequel.

Life at Cibo 2.

She started working there after it became obvious that Lisa had a lot to offer in the front of the house and they were going to be partners full stop.

Cibo Bistro, 11244 104 Avenue, 780757-2426, cibobistro.com

It sounds like the plot synopsis of a romcom. For most of us the couple running the romantic little restaurant is something we see in the movies or on vacation in some picturesque European village. Yet, here we have it in Oliver Square.

Hometown?

Lisa’s is Edmonton, Rosario’s is Jasper.

Years cooking?

Lisa has been in the restaurant business for 17 years, Rosario has been cooking since 2004, so 19 years.

Where would you like to live?

Italy! They both say. Probably Emilia-Romagna.

Your favourite food and drink?

Lisa: pizza and Prosecco.

Rosario: pasta and a Negroni.

What would you be doing if you weren’t cooking?

“It would be something to do with food,” says Rosario. “Maybe private dining.”

“I have always wanted to have my own YouTube cooking channel,” says Lisa, adding, “Yeah, private dining.”

What do you most appreciate in your friends?

“Even though we are always at work and don’t see them very often, it’s like we haven’t missed a beat,” says Rosario.

“Pregnancy has opened my eyes to Asian food,” says Lisa. “Noodles, Thai cuisine, anything spicy and super flavourful. And I’m not drinking, so food is my best friend.”

“Unconditional love,” says Lisa. “No matter what, my friends take me for who I am and the support from my friends is important to me. They are my biggest fan club.”

Meaningful/crazy food experience?

“Dinner at Momofuku in New York.

The interaction with each course and each chef was like nothing we had ever experienced,” says Rosario.

In a cook?

“Passionate, food driven, willing to put the time in to learn,” says Rosario.

Best (cooking) thing that ever happened to you?

“My best cooking experience was rolling Hungarian cabbage rolls with Rosario’s mom, zia and cousin for our annual Boxing Day dinner,” says Lisa. “We focus so much on Italian cuisine it was fun bringing some Hungarian flavours and knowledge to the dinner since my family dines with us that day too.”

In a dish?

“Simplicity,” says Rosario. “Let the ingredients shine.”

“Thoughtfulness,” says Lisa. “Take the time to prepare it properly.”

In a wine?

“Balance,” says Lisa. “Balanced tannin, acidity and fruit, nothing overpowering.”

Dream dinner table Chefs Massimo Bottura, Dario Cecchini, Nancy Silverton, Lisa’s great grandfather, Rosie’s grandparents, Michelle Obama.

Who would cook?

“The nonna who made our food in Piemonte, in Serralunga at the Centro Storico,” says Lisa.

Which words or phrases do you most overuse?

Rosario: We aren’t saving lives, we are just feeding people.

Lisa: For sure.

Current culinary obsession or exploration “The food of Italy. It always showcases the area, and it’s different in every region. So much to see and learn,” says Rosario.

Mentors?

“Mike Maione and Nigel Webber, instructors at NAIT, who whipped my butt into shape,” says Rosario. “I have a question? I still contact them.”

“All the women in the wine world,” says Lisa. “The women here who helped me learn and get a start and the women who make wine and own wineries. So inspirational.”

Favourite casual cheap and cheerful/afterwork food?

“Back in the day it was North 53. Now I’d say Bar Clementine,” says Rosario.

“Because I like a place where I can get a good glass of wine,” says Lisa.

Philosophy You get what you give.

What’s next?

Our baby!

The Tomato | May June 2019 15

Wedding Cake Blues Jan Hostyn

I watched helplessly as a small but unmistakable bright yellow stream burst through the exterior of our meticulously-iced cake. After a few seconds of debilitating horror, I grabbed a spatula and sprang into action. I could not, would not let this happen. Not after the countless hours we had poured into this project.

This cake was not just any cake. This cake, this cake that had just so inconsiderately sprung a leak, was a wedding cake. The very wedding cake that my daughter’s friend was counting on cutting at her wedding in less than 24 hours, to be exact.

My well-intentioned but hugely misinformed foray into the wedding cake arena was not turning out as planned. And what had started as our little project had morphed into anything but.

I don’t do wedding cakes. All of my previous encounters with cakes of that stature had been limited to consuming them. But here I was, elbow-deep in icing, in a stand-off with potentially the most uncooperative wedding cake ever.

The Final Tally 13½ cups of butter 43 eggs 20 lemons 14 cups of icing sugar 4 lbs of carrots 11 trips to the store 627 additional grey hairs 1 happy bride

It all started innocently enough. My oldest daughter had burst through our front door a few months earlier in utter dismay. Her newly-engaged friend had just informed her that, due to budgetary constraints, she was planning to order her wedding cake from Costco.

My daughter was appalled. She had been raised on homemade cakes and, in her world, a cake’s fundamental purpose is to taste utterly delicious. Appearance isn’t totally irrelevant (she has a soft spot for anything with sprinkles) but taste always comes first. My daughter was certain a Costco cake—a zero-tier, run-of-the-mill, factory-produced slab cake—simply would not cut it in that department.

We (mostly she) got to thinking: the cakes we make taste good (well, usually). Perhaps we could make the wedding cake as part of my daughter’s gift for the wedding?

In a matter of minutes, thanks to the magic of texting, my daughter and I had volunteered to make the wedding cake. And, in a matter of just a few more minutes, our offer had been accepted.

The bride was thrilled. She wasn’t even overly concerned with what the finished product was going to look like.

16 May June 2019 | The Tomato

I am a baker. I am NOT a fancy baker, though. Homey.

Most definitely substance over style. But how do you agree to make a wedding cake and not have it look like a wedding cake?

Oh dear.

That simple wedding cake somehow morphed into a three-tiered lemon cake filled with lemon curd. Lemon was the bride’s choice. The groom happened to be a fan of carrot cake, though, so a large, two-layer slab carrot cake also became part of the deal.

To complicate things further, my oldest daughter effectively dropped out of the process partway through.

Thankfully, my other daughter stepped in.

Five cake layers, 43 eggs and countless hours later (seven hours alone for each my daughter and I the day before the wedding simply to ice and assemble – that’s not counting the time we spent baking and shopping, or the time we spent trying to learn the process in the first place) we finally had two cakes. Two fairly presentable cakes, if you ask me.

But the learning curve.

Lemon and carrot were not the least labour-intensive choices for flavours by any means. One of those flavours would have been more than enough by itself. We took on both. After zesting and juicing 20 lemons by hand (with my old-fashioned, rustic, hand-operated juicer) and grating what seemed like a gazillion carrots (again, by hand), I still shudder slightly whenever one of them enters my kitchen.

It turns out I wasn’t exactly what you’d call prepared, either.

I had no idea we needed dowels in order to stack the tiers (I didn’t even know what dowels were, actually). Until the Wednesday before the wedding, that is. Over coffee a friend casually asked if I had picked up my dowels and cardboard yet. Noooooo. Thank goodness for friends.

Her innocent question saved me from having to watch my top cakes’ layers sink into the layers underneath.

At that point a massive dose of panic set in. I planted myself in front of the computer and binge watched wedding cake-related YouTube videos.

Thank goodness for videos. Not only was I given a quick lesson in the stacking and icing of wedding cakes (and

how to use dowels), but other bits of information also proved valuable.

I am a huge fan of parchment paper, but I would never have thought to put it between the cardboard and the icing when layering the tiers. Evidently without the parchment, the icing sticks to the cardboard (and not to the cake) when the tiers are taken apart and the cake is cut. Nobody wants a piece of icing-less cake (at least I don’t). I had also given zero thought to the fact that the finished product, plate and all, had to fit in the fridge. Sure enough, the plate I had bought was not fridge-friendly. Off to the store I went yet again.

There was also the lemon curd leakage issue (solved by taking a deep breath and doing an extra crumb layer and some creative icing maneuvers).

The icing itself was also a bit of a problem. The bride wanted butter icing, so butter icing it was. We quickly found out that butter icing wasn’t the best choice, however. Butter icing isn’t exactly lily-white, it’s heavy, it’s harder to spread and smooth and, and, and…

Four batches of butter and three of cream cheese icing later (cream cheese for the carrot cake, of course), I’m still finding dustings of icing sugar in random nooks and crannies around my house.

Decorating worried me. Before us were two decidedly naked-looking cakes.

Neither had the pristine finish one would hope for in a wedding cake. And upon closer inspection, you could see a touch of unevenness where the emergency lemon curd surgery had been performed.

Definitely not wedding cake-esque. I tried to squelch my rising panic. Our plan to decorate them with fresh flowers would make all the difference, wouldn’t it? That was the hope.

The morning of the wedding we stopped by the City Market to pick up our flowers—two huge buckets full (so huge that we were both huffing and puffing by the time we had lugged them back to the car). Clara at Meadow and Thicket Farm had carefully gathered the freshest and prettiest flowers she had grown that week. There were dahlias and cosmos and I don’t even know what else. All I knew was that they were beautiful. And that they were peach and white, the bride’s colours.

Thank goodness for my daughter. I don’t have a creative bone in my body. She has more than she knows what to do with.

Her talent transformed our decidedly plain three-tiered wedding cake into a work of art. Two huge peach dahlias crowned the top of the cake and stole the show, but the mass of flowers cascading down the sides was almost as striking.

The overall effect was stunning (and completely void of sprinkles)!

Whew. Our wedding cake looked like a real wedding cake!

It was quite the adventure. Next time (if there is a next time) I have no doubt the process will be more streamlined. Just slightly, though—I’ve learned enough to know that I don’t know nearly enough.

www.themarc.ca

@themarcedmonton

Between supplies and ingredients and labour, it would have been far cheaper (and much less stressful) simply to have ordered the wedding cake from one of Edmonton’s many reputable wedding cake designers.

Now I know exactly what not to do when my daughters get married.

Jan Hostyn will not be taking wedding cake orders anytime soon.

You have great taste. Indulge it.

Wedding Cake Makers Looking for cakes that look great and taste even better?

We recommend: The Art of Cake 11811 105 Avenue 780-441-1339 Cake Couture 15008 87 Avenue 780-443-4083

downtown Edmonton 10053 JASPER AVENUE 780.401.2222 UNIONBANKINN.COM

cheese • wine+beer • espresso

Sugared and Spiced 10334 82 Avenue (rear) 780-244-2253

Places with Great Cakes Dauphine Bakery 6005 120 Avenue 587-520-3322 Duchess Bakery Shop 10718 124 Street 780-488-4999 10169 - 104 street | 780.455.1336 | info@thecavern.ca | @CavernYEG

The Tomato | May June 2019 17

Beer Guy The wind that shakes the barley We were somewhere around Omaha on the edge of the prairie when the beer began to take hold. I was driving fast down the Interstate towards Kansas City past endless cornfields. My old friend turned toward me and said with disgust, “Corn? That’s not a crop.”

He’s right. When I was a kid my dad told me most corn is used to feed cows; I was bitterly disappointed. Stupid corn, I thought you were cool. My friend should know. He’s a worldly university professor now but he grew up in Amisk, a speck on the Alberta prairie south of Wainwright. They grow real crops there, Canada’s top three: wheat, canola and barley.

Yes, barley— hordeum vulgare— the first domesticated grain grown by humans. A wondergrain, full of good stuff—vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and phytonutrients —and cholesterol-lowering fibre.

Starting from Mesopotamia (presentday Syria and Iraq) thousands of years ago, it spread north to Europe and then conquered the world. Today barley is grown all over the globe, preferring temperate climates but thriving all the way from near the equator to the subarctic.

The soil and climate of the Canadian prairies are just about perfect for growing barley. Canada is the 6th biggest producer of barley in the world, growing about 9 million tonnes a year, with about half coming from Alberta. Barley may be a key reason for Alberta beef’s great taste and texture given that up to 80 per cent of Alberta production goes to feed livestock (sorry, corn, for my comments earlier). But Albertans also excel at producing malting barley, and exporting it around the world. I noticed pallets of

18 May June 2019 | The Tomato

malt from Alberta’s Rahr Malting while on a tour of Maui Brewing in Hawaii.

In 2018, scientists predicted a mixed future for global barley production.

While higher temperatures, increased droughts and heat waves will mean reduced global production of barley (W. Xie et al. Nature Plants), University of Alberta water scientists (M. Faramafrzi et al. Science of the Total Environment) predict warmer temperatures and increased humidity from climate change will have a positive impact on Alberta barley production. An important caveat is the predicted increase in severe weather events with climate change. The 2018 Alberta barley crop was an excellent one standing in the field, but heavy September snow meant a steep erosion in quality, with much of the crop downgraded to feed barley from malting barley. Still, data from the U.S. Brewers Association shows that increasingly more barley comes from Canada, accounting for over 70 per cent of North American barley production in 2017. With predictions of increased production, the future for Alberta’s barley industry—and beer—looks bright.

As Big Rock founder Ed McNally showed us in the 1980s, the best thing to do with world-class Alberta barley is to use it ourselves: add value to the raw product. Dozens of Alberta craft brewers are doing just that, following in Ed’s footsteps and forging new ways forward.

Particularly exciting are collaborations with new Alberta craft maltsters, Red Shed Malting and Origin Malting.

The field to glass concept, where beer drinkers can trace their beer back to the farm field the barley came from, holds a lot of promise for Alberta beer. There may come a day when beer drinkers look for Alberta malt in their beer, the way we do today for particular hops. To steal a slogan from the Alberta beef industry, “If it ain’t Alberta, it ain’t beer”.

Peter Bailey

Alberta barley six-pack Central Alberta is the epicentre of Alberta barley, with maltsters Red Shed in Penhold, Origin in Strathmore and Rahr in Alix, plus a six-pack of craft breweries and fields of barley as far as you can see. Take a road trip this summer or pick these beers up at better beer stores near you.

Alley Kat Prairie Pounder Penhold Pilsner, Edmonton Alley Kat owner Neil Herbst is a leader in Alberta craft brewing, showing the way in using local products. Alley Kat was the first brewery to use Red Shed malt in a beer, as they do in this crisp, malty pilsner. It won a silver medal for All Alberta Malt Beer at the 2019 Alberta Beer Awards.

Siding 14 Pullman Pale Ale, Ponoka Siding 14 is committed to the farm to glass concept. Here they use Newland two-row barley from Pridelands Grain Farm near Ponoka, which is then malted at Red Shed in Penhold and then used to brew at Siding 14 in Ponoka. A quaffable ale with a touch of fruity hop aroma and taste.

Blindman 24-2 Stock Ale, Lacombe

Explore Canadian Cuisine Open at 5:00pm Tuesday through Saturday Located next to the Alberta Legislature & Grandin LRT station Overlooking the beautiful river valley with complimentary parking Make your reservation on OpenTable or by phone 9707 110 Street NW | thebutternuttree.ca | 780.760.2271

An unplugged, intensely local beer. The Blindman folks planted and harvested barley near Lacombe using a team of twelve Percheron horses from 24-2 Draft Horses.

The barley was hauled to Red Shed where it was custom-malted and delivered to Blindman. They brewed a delicious old English style beer to showcase the malt.

Troubled Monk Golden Gaetz, Red Deer In 2018 Troubled Monk undertook a bold experiment with their Golden Gaetz American blonde ale. They brewed three batches, all identical, with the same barley, but the barley for each batch was from three different regions in Alberta, all to test whether terroir (place) matters. And yes, they discovered where the barley was grown did affect the flavour of the beer.

Snake Lake Boat Bier, Sylvan Lake Opening in 2018, Snake Lake quickly made a name for itself with quality beers, winning two gold and a silver at the 2019 Alberta Brewing Awards. Boat Bier is their take on an American lager, made with Origin Malting’s pilsner malt and dry hopped with Hallertau Blanc, Callista, and Loral hops.

Last Best Bock Chain, Calgary Last Best uses blockchain technology to allow beer drinkers to trace their beer from field to glass. Scan a QR code on the can to access data, videos and maps on each ingredient and the process. The bock-style beer was made with Hamill Farms barley malted at Red Shed and Canada Malting and brewed at Last Best in Calgary.

Peter Bailey read a lot of Hunter S. Thompson in his youth.

He’s on Twitter and Instagram as @Libarbarian.

The Tomato | May June 2019 19

Wine Maven “I don’t make Riesling, I make Mosel,” says Nik Weis of St Urban’s Hof (pronounced oooff) “The great wines of the world move you emotionally. They make you remember—great Champagne, great Burgundy, great Mosel.

Think of the best wines, Comtes Lafon Burgundy, Greywacke, Condrieu or white Hermitage, Kistler Chardonnay, great Mosel. The Mosel will stick out. It has recognizability and a strong character. The total is more than the sum of its parts.

We are not just making wine,” he says. “We are making something that will last a long time. That’s quality.”

Today, St Urban’s Hof farms 33 hectares of Riesling on top sites (Piesport, Ockfen and Wiltingen) of the middle-Mosel and the Saar (its tributary). The family firm is also responsible for Riesling in Ontario but that’s another story.

On a recent visit Nik Weis displayed the informal side of Mosel wines at an Otto sausage dinner. The 2014 Bockstein Ockfen Spatlese is from the steep and slatey grosse lage (cru) vineyard Bockstein near Ockfen in the Saar. It’s a lovely wine with tremendous aging potential, yet charming right now with its citrusy melon, guava and honey flavours, impeccable balance and a long penetrating finish. Another wine tasted at Otto’s was the 2016 Wiltinger Alte Reben (old vines, planted in the 1930s), also from the Saar. Zingy, alive in the mouth, with spicy florals, finishes dry with some salty minerality.

Balanced and delicious.

Martin Moll (L) and Nik Weis go to dinner at Otto’s.

Check out the new kid on the block, 13th Street Winery. J.P Colas, who was head winemaker at Domaine Laroche in Chablis, works with the fruit from 13th Street’s own 40 acres and buys from trusted local growers as well. The 2017 June’s Vineyard Chardonnay (450 cases) has lovely pear aromas, complexity, attractive lemon cream notes and a long vibrant finish, under $30. The 2017 Gamay Noir (2300 cases) is as juicy as we would expect an Ontario Gamay to be (that’s a good thing) and is a delicious glug, under $30. Also from 13th Street are the Burger Blends—ideal with, you guessed it, burgers. The red is a spicy and fruity Gamay/Pinot Noir blend; the white is an off-dry mostly Riesling with a bit (20 per cent) of Pinot Grigio. Easy on the palate and the wallet, around $20.

20 May June 2019 | The Tomato

Mary Bailey

EVENT CALENDAR WEDNESDAY, MAY 8

FRIDAY, MAY 24

Sperling Vineyard Winery Dinner The Butternut Tree, 780-760-2271

The Grapes vs Grain Dinner, Ernest’s Dining Room, nait.ca/ernest-events

FRIDAY, MAY 10

SATURDAY, MAY 25

Culmina Wine Dinner, Ernest’s Dining Room, nait.ca/ernest-events Summerhill Wine Dinner Cave Paleo Beastro thecavebeastdinner.eventbrite.com.

Undercover Wine Tastings Sherbrooke Liquor, Eventbrite

MONDAY, MAY 27 Australian Wine Dinner XIX Terwillegar, 780-395-1119

SUNDAY, MAY 12 Mother’s Day Brunch, Madison’s in the Union Bank Inn, 780-401-2222 or Open Table Prime Rib + Champagne Mother’s Day Brunch Buffet, XIX Terwillegar and St. Albert, dinenineteen.com Mother’s Day Brunch The Butternut Tree, 780-760-2271 Rosé all (Mothers) Day Cavern, 780-455-1336

WEDNESDAY, MAY 15 The Spring Tasting Menu Dinner The Butternut Tree, 780-760-2271

THURSDAY, MAY 16 Gabriela Millan (Luigi Bosca) cradles the Finca Los Nobles Cabernet Bouchet Field Blend

“We drink a lot of wine, 90 litres per capita,” says Gabriela Millan, export director for Luigi Bosca premium Argentine producer. “Maybe because of that, a lot of wineries didn’t export until the ’80s.”

The Gala 1, launched in 2001 to celebrate 100 years of production, is Malbec with 10 per cent Petit Verdot and five per cent Tannat. It’s an aromatic and flavourful wine— thyme, violets, plums with a richness but not heaviness in the mouth, very good acidity and round tannins.

The Gala 2 is 85 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 10 per cent Cabernet Franc, five per cent Merlot. “Before the Malbec juggernaut Argentina was all about Cabernet,” says Gabriela “It was the most exported wine.” Blackberry, cassis, chocolate, some freshness, eucalyptus, ripe rolling tannins. Napa Cab fans will love this.

Finca Los Nobles is an old vineyard at altitude in Luján de Cuyo. This wine is a field blend of low-yielding Malbec and Petit Verdot—warm, chocolate, abundant red fruit, well-balanced with ripe firm tannins. Also from Finca Los Nobles is a field blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Bouchet. “Not Alicante Bouchet,” says Gabriela.

TUESDAY, MAY 28 Glenfarclas Masterclass with George Grant, Chateau Louis, adam@chateaulouis.com or 780-452-2337

MONDAY, JUNE 10 Indulgence, Delta by Marriott Edmonton South Conference Center jledmonton.com

TUESDAY, JUNE 11 Blasted Church Wine Maker Dinner The Butternut Tree, 780-760-2271

SUNDAY, JUNE 16

Rosé in May Fundraiser, Aligra Wine and Spirits, aligrawineandspirits.com

Father’s Day Brunch The Butternut Tree, 780-760-2271

WEDNESDAY, MAY 22

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 19

Annual Spring Fling for Charity Fine Wines by Liquor Select 780-481-6868

Gins in June, Aligra Wine and Spirits aligrawineandspirits.com

Dinner with Nathalie Bonhomme Expo Centre edmontonexpocentre.com

SATURDAY, JUNE 22 Undercover Wine Tastings Sherbrooke Liquor, Eventbrite

“These are old clones of Cab Franc, from a priest in St. Emilion named Bouchet.”

Icono is the top bottling of Luigi Bosca. Merlot and Cabernet from Los Nobles have a long maceration followed by fermentation and aging in new French. Bottled without filtration in a heavy almost opaque glass bottle A classic old school wine meant to age 25 years.

Wine Maven continues on next page.

Find these wines at Bin 104, Color de Vino, DeVines Wines, Jasper Wine Market, Lacombe Spirits, Liquor Select, Hicks, Sherbrooke Liquor. Not all wines in all shops.

Or search at liquorconnect.com

The Tomato | May June 2019 21

Wine Maven Continued from previous page.

Céline Champalou pouring at Color de Vino.

“Since forever the peasants have worked with the moon,” says Céline Champalou of Domaine Champalou as we talk about how everything old is new again. “Use the moon for the bottling—there is less sulphur and more fruit when the moon is waning,” she says. “Help nature and she will help you. We are sustainable.

It’s important for diversity; we use cover crops, the vines are near the forests and we make places for bats so they can eat the bugs.” Domaine Champalou makes incredible Chenin Blanc in Vouvray in the Loire Valley. The wines of this AC can be sec (dry) demi-sec (off dry), sparkling or made in a botrytized style called moelleux. Try the Champalou Brut, a delicate and refined bubble made in the traditional method with two years on lees, $32. The Champalou Sec is equally as refined, a still wine with flavours of honey, flowers, intense quince and peach, $31.

Céline was part of a group of French winemakers visiting from the Loire Valley and Bordeaux. The wines of Domaine du Salvard (Cheverny) stood out for pure pleasure and value. Though the AC is best known for Sauvignon Blanc, the rosé was impressive—a Gamay-Pinot Noir blend that practically crackled with fresh acidity, beautiful lime strawberry and cherry fruit flavours, bone dry, tasted like spring, $23. (The red is a pick for Fridge Door Wines for Spring, pg. 26). Last but not least, another lovely sparkling wine for the bubble heads. Cabernet Franc is the red of choice for Saumur and the Chateau de Targé Saumur Brut Rosé is appealing, refreshing and delicious, $32.

“Good Hermitage is always majestic. Slow to mature, very deep in colour, magnificently and hauntingly savoury rather than sweet and flirtatious, the quintessential Syrah,” Jancis Robinson.

Fans of northern Rhône wines are always happy to enjoy the offerings of Paul Jaboulet. Bought by the Frey family in 2005, the wines, especially the legendary Hermitage La Chappelle ($305) are magnificent. For everyday, we love the 2016 Parallele 45, with its white pepper, hints of lavender, cherries and wild berries in spades. The 2016 Parallele 45 Rosé is equally engaging with fine acidity, strawberry and spice notes and zingy grapefruit on the finish, under $20. The 2016 Crozes Hermitage Les Jalets, is made with 30 per cent fruit grown on the steep terraces of one of the best Crozes-Hermitage sites in Mercurol, then aged in large neutral barrels. It has a terrific aroma of smoky meats and cranberries along with the characteristic pepper and red fruits. Drink with grilled anything and, try chilling it down for 15 minutes first, $33.

22 May June 2019 | The Tomato

Two Italian wines—one is white, from the centre of le Marche. The other is a red from the Aeolian Islands, far south. The 2016 Pievalta Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC (just call it the Pievalta Verdicchio) is a delight, nervy, fresh and delicious. The grapes are thoughtfully grown on calcareous clay and sandstone (the vineyard is Demeter certified) and the winemaking is pretty hands off. A wine to have with anything seafood, $27ish.

2016 Ypsilon IGT Terre Siciliane Rosso, is a Nerello Mascalese blend with Nero d’Avola and Corinto Nero grown on Lipari (Aeolian Islands) by Tenuta Castellaro. Nerello Mascalese is the new fave grape from Italy and it’s no wonder. It’s just so exhilarating, similar in body to Pinot Noir, with an exuberance that’s hard not to love— think Retriever puppies—fresh red fruit, lively acidity and fine-grained tannins. Drink slightly chilled this summer, $35ish.

Wines from Spain continue to delight with their excellent quality to value ratio. We love the Don Aurelio 2017 Verdejo La Evolucion from Valdepeñas in central Spain. It’s full-bodied with tropical aromas, a rich texture and fruity, citrusy lychee flavours. Have with vegetable tempura or Thai seafood stew, under $20. Also from the family-owned Navarro Lopez, two well-made reds. They are considered vino de la tierra de castilla because they use grape varieties that are not stipulated by the DO in their region.

The 2015 Premium 1904 has 70 per cent Tempranillo, 30 per cent Syrah in the blend. Fans of profound reds will be over the moon. Balanced, firm ripe tannins, luscious red and black fruit, with an underlying presence of warm oak. Drink now with grilled beef or lamb or cellar for five to seven years, $33. The 2017 Premium 1904 Graciano is unusual in the sense you rarely see Graciano on its own (it’s part of the blend which makes Rioja great).

The wine is deeply coloured, cheerful, with lowish tannins and superlative juicy red fruit, under $30.

Find these wines at Bin 104, Color de Vino, DeVines Wines, Jasper Wine Market, Lacombe Spirits, Liquor Select, Hicks, Sherbrooke Liquor. Not all wines in all shops.

Or search at liquorconnect.com

artisan food market

charcuterie, sausages, & preserves The trusted charcuterie supplier for over 30 Edmonton restaurants our retail market is now open on 124th St!

587.786.3560 | www.meuwlys.com | 10706 124th St.

hardware grill hardware grill hardware grill est. 1996

est. 1996

est. 1996

Edmonton’s original farm-to-table restaurant.

Join us for dinner Monday-Saturday from 5pm. est. 1996

Korean Fried Cauliflower (KFC)

est. 1996

Charcuterie Plate

est. 1996

Crispy Pork Belly

DROP IN EARLY OR LATE. BEST SHAREABLES IN THE CITY hardwaregrill.com 780.423.0969 97 Street & Jasper Ave.

The Tomato | May June 2019 23

Feeding People The ordinary yet extraordinary, chive

SAMPLING WINE EVERY SATURDAY (780) 439-9069 | colordevino.ca | 9606 82 Ave Edmonton

The chive plant follows the spring melt with such annual regularity that we take it for granted, like salt and pepper.

Yet, to every gardener worthy of a trowel, chives are elegant and beautiful, among the first of the eatable greens of spring and, therefore, dependable, anticipated and fallen upon with relish.

There are about ten species of onions from which hundreds of varieties of the allium family are derived. Chives are in this top ten. It is a variable species, the only member of common garden alliums that still grows in the wild, hence the name wild chives.

Indigenous peoples across northern North America harvested and traded all members of the onion family; whether allium schoenoprasum, the common garden variety, was among them is not yet clear, because botanists can’t agree whether it is native to North America, or introduced and naturalized.

Chives are the smallest and most delicate plant in the onion family. These qualities make them most suitable in creamy sauces, soups and egg dishes. It is a plant of contrasts, delicate in flavour, hardy in growth, a perennial that survives an Edmonton winter and lasts all through the growing season.

Opening Soon biancoeats.com

You can find chives in the grocery chains, but they are usually in one of those little plastic clam-shells, costing $3 for a meager amount that is often well past their bbd. As Eileen Woodhead reminds us in Early Canadian Gardening, “chives contain a volatile oil that dissipates during drying so that the leaves lost their potency soon after cutting.”

It’s better to grow your own.

If you have access to even a small patch of garden, or room for a small pot, you can grow this herb. They can be started from seed indoors and planted out when the soil warms, or, propagated from a clump as small as your thumb.

24 May June 2019 | The Tomato

Many households have a clump of bulbs growing somewhere; just ask your granny. You’ll be surprised how willing most people are to share. Or, go to Arch Greenhouses on 97 Street, (or your local nursery). Arch uses predatory insects as a biological control regime, so no neonicotinoids or insecticides are used.

They will happily give you all the advice you may need on chives.

Chives spread slowly and need never take over if you do this: in the fall deadhead the flowers, and in the spring as they appear, harvest new shoots with the flip of a trowel. I have a main garden clump and I check for new outliers; these are the ones I dig out first to eat, or I pot before bringing them indoors for the winter. They have shallow roots and during a dry spell they will require watering. If you put them in a pot outside on a sunny step or balcony, water twice a week.

Snip your chives as you need them from the outer edges, leaving the middle to produce flowers. A major study found chives to be one of the top ten producers of nectar. Bees love chive flowers and so will you. The flowers are edible and are lovely in a salad.

Here is a gardener’s trick, once the plant has flowered, in pot or not, give it a brush-cut. Trim all the green hollow leaves right back to ground level; water well and they will pop right back up.

With a bit of luck, a second blooming will happen just when the bees are getting ready for winter.

Chives last from April to October, so what are we going to do with these highly nutritious members of the onion family? Luckily, they are very versatile.

They make an omelet hum, round out a white fish sauce and they give many a pasta dish a flourish of fresh green flavour.

What you do with chives depends, in part, on the calendar month. In the spring you may want a mild onion flavour in salad, but later into the fall, you may want to use them as a garnish in vichyssoise. Isn’t that a lovely name for what is basically cold potato soup, with leeks of course, double onion.

The point is, how you use chives may depend on what time of year it is, which influences what you cook. Also, what is your family heritage? My mother was of Irish decent and she put chives in just about everything potato—potato salad, potato pancakes, mashed, smashed, you name it, plus devilled eggs, tuna salad and on grilled fish.

Some restaurants recognize the importance of fresh garden herbs. Café Linnea grows these in pots and raised beds, including chives, which they use in garnishes, flavouring and in every other creative way, like plating, that fits the dish or their mood. Fresh, locally grown and inexpensive seems to be catching on.

Morris loves Edmonton, where he gardens, cooks, eats, drinks wine and writes about it.

Morris Lemire

Chive Dressing “This recipe is something you can play around with, depending on your taste and the dish you are going to pair it with. You can change the volume, or the flavour; just taste as you go. For example, you could add a fist full of other herbs, like parsley or basil, a splash more oil, another squeeze of lemon and you would have a sauce to go with barbecued salmon.” Morris Lemire

Lightly bruise a garlic clove. Rub the garlic on the inside of the mixing bowl.

(Depending on how much garlic flavour you like, you can leave the clove in to marinate with the rest of the ingredients.)

2 T

fresh-squeezed lemon juice

2 T

extra virgin olive oil

pinch

dry mustard powder

pinch hot pepper (add more depending on the dish and personal preference) 1 t

honey (optional)

¼ c

chopped chives

kosher salt and freshcracked black pepper, to taste.

Put everything through a food processor or immersion blender and strain out the chunky bits. Or, leave them in. Then it really works with grilled flank steak cut on the bias. If you are dressing a kale salad, use your hands to lightly massage the dressing into the kale about 30 minutes before serving. Add the other bits, orange slices perhaps, just before serving.

O U R PA T I O S A R E I N F U L L B L O O M

ST ALBERT

T E RW I L L E GA R

78 0 . 5 69. 1 8 19

78 0 . 3 95 . 1 1 19 D I N E N I N E T E E N .CO M

AVANT GARDEN!

Serves 2-4.

IN LIT TLE ITALY AT 10826 - 95 ST, EDMONTON, AB OPEN: MON-WED 9-6, TH-FRI 9-8, SAT 9-6, SUN 11-5

TEL: 780. 428.0754 WWW.ZOCALO.CA

The Tomato | May June 2019 25

Fridge Door Wines for Spring Mary Bailey

What we want to drink right now. Wines that are casual, yet with character and personality. Whites, rosé and light reds to drink a bit chilled. Gently made with thoughtfulness—sustainable, organic and biodynamic.

Wines that don’t break the bank, in the $20 range.

Wines you do not hesitate to open on a gorgeous afternoon when the lilacs are blooming or to have around for impromptu get togethers. That’s refreshing.

DeAngelis Falerio DOC 2018 (Le Marche, Italy) Falerio DOC wines are a blend of Trebbiano, Passerina and Pecorino, all grapes known to Le Marche, the Italian wine region on the Adriatic coast. This wine, from the capable hands of the DeAngelis family, is grown in Colli Ascolani vineyards. Exceptional minerality, beautiful citrus, herb and apple notes, elegant and lovely. Crisp and tangy, have with olives all’Ascolana (stuffed and fried olives, the street snack of the region), crostini or potato chips.

Hugel Gentil 2016 (Alsace, France) This wine from Hugel used to be found on every wine list. But, as we got excited about other wines from other places, it fell off the radar. Well, at least it did for me. Time to take another look. The blend of noble grapes (by French wine law Gentil must be 50 per

26 May June 2019 | The Tomato

cent Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris or Gewürztraminer, known as noble white grapes) with Pinot Blanc or Sylvaner making up the balance, is a taste of the Alsace.

Charming aromas, crisp and well-balanced, with spoton acidity, it’s ideal for a glass pre-dinner.

St Urban’s Hof Nik Weis Selection Urban Riesling 2017 (Mosel, Germany) Yes, of course there is a Riesling in the fridge door!

Especially a Mosel Riesling for the highish acidity and lowish alcohol equaling total refreshment. There are some nice gingery pear and yellow stone fruit flavours, along with a delicious slatey minerality. Zesty and fun.

Think Thai, bánh mì, grilled shrimp.

Culmina Family Estate R&D Rosé Blend 2018 (Golden Mile Bench, British Columbia) Peachy pink, fresh, with an undertone of sweet fruitiness, lighter and zestier than the 2107 bottling.

The blend is Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and the wine is super drinkable. Love the watermelon, rhubarb, sour cherry with lime flavours. This rosé is part of Culmina’s experimental line (R&D as in research and development or as in Ron and Don—the label has a darling childhood pic of founder Don Triggs and his brother Ron).

Gérard Bertrand Côte des Roses Rosé 2018 (Languedoc, France) Ok, yes, this wine has been in the fridge door for several summers. It’s the lovely bottle, the crisp rhubarb and juicy strawberry notes and the whisper of fruity sweetness. This Provence-style (pale) medium-bodied rosé—Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah blend—goes from a glass while cooking to dinner quite easily. Have with hummus and crudité.

Domaine du Salvard Cheverny AOC Rouge (Loire Valley, France) This blend of Pinot Noir, Gamay with a tiny percentage of Cot (the French name for Malbec) is a game changer. So juicy! Attractive cherry and strawberry aromas open into a vibrant wine with wow red fruit flavours. The wine has a beautiful texture, yet is fairly light-bodied, all the better to chill for 15 minutes and enjoy with charcuterie from Meuwly’s. If you were wondering what’s this Cheverny, it is a relatively new (1993) appellation in the Loire Valley best known for Sauvignon Blanc (see Maven, pg. 20).

Find these wines at better wine shops or search at liquorconnect.com

Kitchen Sink restaurant news Cibo Bistro (11244 104 Avenue, 780757-2426, cibobistro.com) has a new menu inspired by the flavours of southern Italy. Taste hearty dishes like fedelini pesto alla trapenese (almonds, tomato and colatura di alici, the heady fish sauce made in Cetara) or, rigatoni with a spicy Calabrese ragu. Enjoy on the leafy and quiet patio which opens early May. Every Monday is Happy Monday at The Glass Monkey, (5842 111 Street, 780760-2228, theglassmonkey.ca). Wines under $40 are half price, over $40, $20 off. Other special deals—Wednesday for half price wings or Thirsty Thursday for $6.95 pints. They are also having special Game of Thrones viewing parties including the final on Sunday, May19.

Madison’s in the Union Bank Inn (10053 Jasper Avenue, 780-401-2222, unionbankinn.com/madisons-grill) has a brand-new chef, Daniel Mongeon.

Originally from Ottawa, chef Mongeon comes to Edmonton from the Sawridge in Jasper. We welcome him to Edmonton and look forward to the new spring and summer menus.

Uccellino (10349 Jasper Avenue, 780426-0346, uccellino.ca) wants us to explore the flavours of Liguria. Best known for its basil, also wild greens, seafood, walnuts, crispy focaccia and some of Italy’s best olive oil. Sound good?

Yes! Enjoy on June 25 when the menu will be 100 per cent Ligurian. The fivecourse menu is $75; with wine pairings, $135. Reserve on the website. Uccellino plans a regional dinner once per month.

product news The Edmonton Downtown Farmers’ Market will be in its new home come the May long weekend at 10305 97 Street.

The new hours are Saturdays from 9am3pm and Sundays from 11am-3pm. It’s all good news for market hounds and we wish the market a prosperous future in their new home.

28 May June 2019 | The Tomato

The Ribstone Creek Brewery in Edgerton has released a Berliner Weisse.

The German-style beer is a pretty pink, with a subtle sour tartness balancing the sweet raspberry. Try it at the speciality cask night May 16 from 5-9pm at Chartier (5012 50 Street, Beaumont, 780-737-3633, dinechartier.com),

now in the distillery business. He has opened Greenwood Distillers in Sundre with his wife Bronwyn Peterson and Daniel and Dallas Groom. Their first product, a spiritous cordial called Wassail, is available now. Go Owen and Bronwyn!

Visit their tasting room, 306 Main Avenue, Sundre, open every Saturday from 12-5pm, greenwooddistillers.ca.

Madison’s in the Union Bank Inn (10053 Jasper Avenue, 780-401-2222, unionbankinn.com/madisons-grill) features a special à la carte menu for Mother’s Day Brunch. Two seatings, 10am and 12:30pm, $44.95/p+, children’s menu, $19.95/p+. There are also special Mother’s Day room rates; check out the Union Bank Inn website.

It will be a little harder to get to the Juniper Café & Bistro (9514 87 Street, 780-490-6799, juniperbistro.com) as 95 Avenue will be closed until November.

But it’s worth it. Their menu, including Sunday brunch, is excellent. As well, they will have a Mother’s Day High Tea on May 12. No word yet on the menu, but you know it’ll be delish.

Zocalo (10826 95 Street, 780-428-0754, zocalo.ca) has a new line of Germanmade pots called Lechuza. These pots are completely self-contained (self-water) in fun, contemporary colours and are ideal for kitchen herbs. Two sizes, a four-inch and a six-inch cube, $24 or $40.

Also in the neighbourhood, the lovely and special Wired Cup at 9418 91 Street closes its doors on June 1.

wine tastings, happening and events

XIX (5940 Mullen Way, 780-395-1119 and 150 Bellerose Drive, St, Albert, 780-569-1819, dinenineteen.com) are laying on the Prime Rib + Champagne Mother’s Day Brunch Buffet, 10am2pm, Sunday, May 12. (Available at both locations.) Enjoy the mimosa bar, prime rib, omelette station, pasta, fresh seafood and pastry; $48.95 for adults, $26.95 for 8-18, and kids under 8 no charge. Call the location of your choice to book.

Vivo Ristorante (6143 Currents Drive, 780-244-5920, vivoristorante.ca) opens its third location Wednesday, May 1 in Currents of Windermere. The new restaurant differs from the other location in that dishes are not family style. The kitchen is helmed by the extremely capable Medi Tabtoub, so you know it’ll be delicious. The new Vivo will be open from 11 am every day. Watch for Happy Hour specials and Wine Wednesdays.

Get fresh veggies delivered weekly directly to your place of work. The Riverbend Gardens CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) program offers office delivery to Edmonton Tower, Stantec Tower and Enbridge Centre. The season starts July 4, but you must sign up: riverbendcsa.ca.

The Bon Ton Bakery (8720 149 Street, 780-489-7717, bonton.ca) is making their country loaf and heritage loaf breads available as pan breads now. It’s the same dough, fermented for seven hours instead of the usual 30. Bon Ton sent all their long fermentation breads for nutritional analysis. Now they can give customers all the information they need regarding nutrition.

Owen Peterson, who was the friendliest baker we have ever met (remember him at Prairie Mill Bakery? In the hat?) is

The Butternut Tree (9707 110 Street, 780-760-2271, thebutternuttree.ca) has several special dinners in May and June.

Kelowna’s Sperling Vineyard is featured on Wednesday, May 8 with Ann Sperling.

The menu looks amazing, paired with six wines. Tix: $115/p+.

The Spring Tasting Menu, Wednesday, May 15, is 15 courses featuring all the fresh tastes of the season including unexpected edibles such as cherry blossoms, nettles, chamomile, maple flowers and leaves, as well as halibut, ramps, lamb and asparagus. Tix: $140/p+.

And, there is a dinner featuring the cheeky Blasted Church with wine maker Evan Saunders, on Tuesday, June 11.

Call 780-760-2271 to book any dinner.

Enjoy a Beast Wine Dinner with the Okanagan’s Summerhill Pyramid Winery at the Cave Paleo Beastro (6104-104 Street, 780-540-2283, thecave.ca). Five courses with wine pairings, 6:30pm, Thursday, May 9. Tix: $100/p, thecavebeastdinner.eventbrite.com.

Meet proprietor Don Triggs at the Culmina Wine Dinner at Ernest’s Dining Room (NAIT, 10701 118 Avenue, 780-471-8676). Five delicious Culmina wines with four courses, 6:30pm, Friday, May 10. Tix: $112.65/p, nait.ca/ernest-events.

The Butternut Tree (9707 110 Street, 780-760-2271, thebutternuttree.ca) is offering both a Mother’s Day Brunch, Sunday, May 12, 9:30am-2pm and a Father’s Day Brunch, Sunday, June 16, 10am-2:30pm. No word yet on the menus or prices, but you know it will be seasonal, Canadian-focused and stellar.

Rosé all (Mothers) Day at Cavern (10169 104 Street, 780-455-1336, thecavern.ca). On Sunday, May 12, from 1-4pm, enjoy a rosé-themed Cheese School, $100/p+. Call to book.

Upcoming tastings at Aligra Wine and Spirits in West Edmonton Mall (8882 170 Street, 780-483-1083) Thursday, May 16, 5pm is the Rosé in May Fundraiser for the Edmonton Food Bank. Donations at the door.

On Wednesday, June 19, 6:30pm is Gins in June, with sommelier Ken Bracke, $40/p includes appetizers. Visit aligrawineandspirits.com to book.

The Fine Wines by Liquor Select (8924 149 Street, 780-481-6868) Annual Spring Fling for Charity (The Stollery Children’s Hospital Foundation) is Wednesday, May 22, 6:30pm with over 60 specialty wines, craft beers and artisanal spirits available along with delicious snacks from Meuwly’s.

what’s new and notable Tomato Ad-June2017-3.pdf

Have dinner with Nathalie Bonhomme (a Québecer making fab wine in Spain) Wednesday, May 22 at the Expo Centre.

Tix: $125/p, edmontonexpocentre.com.

1

2017-06-01

7:53 AM

artisans, producers, wineries, breweries and distilleries participating. It’s your best bet to taste Alberta’s bounty and see what’s new. Tix: $100/p, jledmonton.com C

M

The Grapes vs Grain Dinner at Ernest’s Dining Room (NAIT, 10701 118 Avenue, 780-471-8676), features a throwdown between Alley Kat Brewing and Pacific Wines. Reception begins at 6pm, Friday, May 24. Tix: $112.65/p, nait.ca/ernest-events.

Sherbrooke’s Undercover Wine Tastings in May and June are on Saturdays, May 25 and June 22. Undercover is a fun monthly event where you taste six wines in black glasses, all at the same temperature. The idea is to let other attributes of the wine come to the fore and to have you guessing about the usual things, like, is it red or white? Sign up for one night or for the whole series. Tix: $20/p+, Eventbrite.

The annual Asparagus Festival at Edgar Farms is on three Sundays this year May 26, June 2 and June 9 from 10am4pm. Visit with farm animals, compete in a duck race, do a giant floor puzzle, paint your face, and pick up some fresh asparagus. The first acre of asparagus at Edgar Farms was planted in 1986; this year they will harvest 30 acres. The farm is just west of Innisfail at 1465 Township Road 352. Visit edgarfarms.com to download the map. Admission is $5, kids under 5 free.

Chef Andrew Fung of XIX (5940 Mullen Way, 780- 395-1119, dinenineteen.com) visited Australia recently and brought back fresh new menu ideas. Taste them at the Australian Wine Dinner, Monday, May 27, five dishes with five wines, 7pm.

Tix: $125/p+, call 780-395-1119.

Taste six whiskies during the Glenfarclas Masterclass with George Grant at Chateau Louis (11727 Kingsway, 780452-7770), 6:30pm, Tuesday, May 28.

Tix: $40, adam@chateaulouis.com.

Indulgence A Canadian Epic of Food and Wine, is Monday, June 10 at the Delta with 46 chefs, ranchers, food

Plan to be on Alberta Avenue from June 17-23 for Dine the Ave, a week of dining specials with menus from $10-$20. And, you can take a mini tour June 12 for a sneak peek. Use #Eatson118 for a chance to win a giveaway. Visit alberta-avenue. com for participating restaurants, menus, preview details and tix.

Y

CM

Our Beautiful Patio is Open!!

Eat & Drink Together... Outside!

MY

CY

CMY

K

@GlassMonkeyYEG www.theglassmonkey.ca

780.760.2228

5842-111 Street

at the cooking schools The Ruby Apron (therubyapron.ca) has a new schedule and you might want to book a July class right now. Things sell out fast! The next Sourdough class available is Friday, July 12. We like the idea of the Ice Cream and Granita Workshop, Tuesday, July 23. For more info visit Ruby’s website.

Check out the spring classes at the Atco Blue Flame Kitchen (10035 105 Street, 780-420-7282, atcoblueflamekitchen. com). The hands-on kids class, High Tea Hi-Jinks, is on Saturday, May 4, $60.

Thursday evening classes are $65/p and start at 6pm; Gnocchi Know-How, May 2; Vietnamese Vittles, May 16; Sizzlin’ Steaks, May 30; Mad About Bacon, June 13; The Summer of Pie, June 20; Seafood on the Barbecue, June 27. On Saturday, May 11, 10am, Handson Interactive Mother’s Day Brunch, $85. Summer Solstice Sippers and Starters, Friday, June 21, 6pm, $100/p.

Call to book.

Learn to make dishes destined to become classics in your house during a For the Love of Alberta Cooking Class at Kitchen by Brad (10130 105 Street, 780-757-7704, kitchenbybrad.ca).

Dishes like bison barley meatballs, pyrohy, beer-braised brisket and Saskatoon berry crostata, made from Alberta’s signature foods. Saturday, May 18, 12:30pm. Tix: $145/p+, kitchenbybrad.ca/classes.

Local Seasonal Organic Sustainable •

•

•

Each of our Vitaliteas Teas and Spicy Chai Mixes are 100% locally made in Edmonton, Alberta.

Call or visit us online to order any of our naturally delicious blends.

780.461.3176 | vitaliteas.ca VitalyTeas Ltd. Edmonton, AB

Send interesting food and drink news for Kitchen Sink to hello@thetomato.ca.

The Tomato | May June 2019 29

Nourishing Entertainment!

Metro Cinema is a community-based non-profit society devoted to the exhibition and promotion of Canadian, international, and independent film and video.

Adult: $13, Student/Senior: $10 ($8 matinee), Child: $8

metrocinema.org

Tomato Crossword 1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

22

23

11

10 12

13

Her Smell

14

May 16 - 27 A self-destructive punk rocker struggles with sobriety while trying to recapture the creative inspiration that led her band to success.

Myles Mellor

15

16

17

18

19 20

The Rocky Horror Picture Show

21

May 18 @ 10PM A newly engaged couple have a breakdown in an isolated area and must pay a call to the bizarre residence of Dr. Frank-N-Furter.

Adult: $16, Student/Senior: $14, Child (12&under): $12

The Wild One June 15 @ 9:30PM Two rival motorcycle gangs terrorize a small town after one of their leaders is thrown in jail. Cop-hating Johnny recounts the fateful events that led up to the “whole mess” as he calls it, his role in it, and whether he could have stopped it from happening.

24

25

26

27

28 29

30 32

35

31

33

36

34

37

Metro Cinema at the Garneau 8712-109 Street | metrocinema.org

Across 1 Canadian holiday, 2 words

5 Compass point

7 Easter egg searches

6 Energy

10 Copper-coloured quaff

7 Easter staple, 3 words

11 Hawaiian food fish, aka wahoo

8 Kind of orange

12 Oregon wine producer

9 Grills, as a steak

13 Sugar substitute for the kitchen

14 Give a freebie, at a hotel

15 Sweet sherry

16 Jogged

18 Freebies at restaurants usually

17 Gathering some mollusks

19 Method

22 Famous king crab

20 Eastern province, for short

23 Process for wine and cheese

21 Ukrainian bread

24 Kind of bean

24 Scale note

25 Cinnamon, woodchips provide them

26 Cut the beef for sunday lunch 27 Coleslaw or sauerkraut essentially 28 Lacto-___ vegetarian 29 Spring activity for Edmontonians 30 Popular camera

26 Sweet hot drink 27 ____ free eggs 31 On holiday 33 Canadian politician

32 Texas hold ’__ N I

A M P

C

R

O

V

O

R

A

C

A

F

29 28 26

24

25

V

32

N G

E

C

27

T S

M

Y

W A

O

A M O R O

20

19

15

L

T L

I

E

L

A

Y

M A

12 10

2

L 3

16

P

21

S

17

A

H

E

14

N

O N G 5

6

N

I

34

A

B

S B

S

L

C

7

23

L

S

E E

V

O H

A

22

R O T

G

A

18

S

I E

L K

O 13

31

A G

S A

T U G

K O N

U

11 4

A

A

30

C

O N O

L

L

33

A

N

I 1

P

37

E M

R I

A

A U

8

N

E T

9

S

4 Goes with aah

G M

3 Squash color

36

2 Everyone

S

30 May June 2019 | The Tomato

1 Rum cocktail, 2 words

A

soundcloud.com

Down

B

A podcast about food and drink recorded in Edmonton and hosted by Mary and Amanda.

37 Vegetarian basic food type

A

IS ON THE AIR!

36 General manager, for short

O

35 Six-pack muscles, for short

35

34 Summer month, abbr.

June 10, 2019 6:30pm to 9:00pm Tickets $100 Indulge in an evening of fine VQA wines and prairie cuisine.

Tickets from jledmonton.com | Only 400 available, order early Restaurants

Producers

The Cave Paleo Beastro

Doef ’s Greenhouses

Cilantro and Chive

Erdmanns Garden & Greenhouses

Courtyard by Marriott Delta Edmonton South Ernest’s at NAIT The Glass Monkey Gastropub

Canadian Wineries, Alberta Breweries and Distilleries 13th Street Winery

Four Whistle Farms

Bearface Whiskey

Gruger Family Fungi

Bench 1775

Gull Valley Greenhouses

Bent Stick Brewing Co.

Irvings Farm Fresh LTD. Black Market Wine Co.

Highlands Golf Club

MO-NA Food Dist

Campio Brewing Co.

Kitchen by Brad

Nature’s Green Acres

Eau Claire Distillery

The Marc Restaurant

North 49 Fruit

Mission Hill Winery

Matrix Hotel

Purple Gem Farms

Red Rooster

Northern Chicken

Stonepost Farms

Sandhill Winery

Pampa Brazillian Steakhouse

Sunworks Farm

Stoneboat Vineyards

Sylvan Star Cheese

Summerhill Pyramid Winery

Prestons Restaurant and Lounge Red Ox Inn

Winding Road Artisan Cheese

Synchromesh Wines Wayne Gretzky Estates

Artisans Jacek Chocolate Couture Meuwly’s Artisan Food Market No Boats on Sunday Orca Chocolate Slowfood Edmonton

indulgenceedmonton.ca

@indulgenceyeg

#indulgence19

1 FRENCH ROSÉ

IN ALBERTA 90 POINTS

WINE SPECTATOR (2017v)

To Find a Retailer Visit: LIQUORCONNECT.COM