The Tomato January February 2019

Take a bite of your city | January February 2019

thetomato.ca

Discovering Amari The Year of the Dumpling

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Contents Editor Mary Bailey marybee@telus.net

Publisher BGP Publishing

Features

Copy Editor Shauna Faragini

Contributing Writers Peter Bailey Myles Mellor

Illustration/Photography Curtis Comeau Karolina Turek Photography

Design and Prepress

Firepits, s’mores and a spa | Mary Bailey

WebMeister

8 Discovering Amari The bittersweet appeal of amari | Mary Bailey

Bossanova Communications Inc. Gunnar Blodgett, COPA Jurist

6 Keeping warm in Kananaskis

12 The Year of the Dumpling Enjoy the Lunar New Year tradition | Mary Bailey

18 Soup for a Cold Winter’s Day Warming soups featuring Alberta pulses | Mary Bailey

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The Tomato is published six times per year: January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December

by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780.431.1802

5 Dish Gastronomic happenings around town

16 Wine Maven Mary Bailey

20 Beer Guy Happy New Beer | Peter Bailey

26 Kitchen Sink What’s new and notable

30 The Crossword Myles Mellor

Subscriptions are available for $25 per year. thetomato.ca On the cover: chef Daniel Costa at Bar Bricco with amari.

Curtis Comeau Photography.

Celebrating Edmonton’s

20 YEARS

Food Culture Since 1996 The Tomato | January February 2019 3

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Dish

gastronomic happenings around town

NAIT dives into Product Research and Development NAIT is building a new centre for culinary product research and development. The centre will focus on four areas: creating food experiences using novel ingredients and new techniques; nutrition and health; sustainability and kitchen efficiency.

“We want to build on NAIT’s culinary reputation and our expertise in finding solutions for industry. The time is now to invest in agri-foods and add value to the crops Alberta produces, which are some of the best in the world,” said Dana Gibson, director of business development, NAIT Centre for Culinary Innovation.

The Centre for Culinary Innovation’s certified research chef, Maynard Kolskog, is already working with local food producers and manufacturers in his current test kitchen. The new centre, next to NAIT’s fine dining restaurant, Ernest’s, will expand the scope and scale in six high-tech kitchen stations. The $2.55 million centre is expected to be open by summer 2019.

The Classic David Wood Some dedicated food people with long memories might remember David Wood from his food specialty shops in Toronto, or have enjoyed his pristine Salt Spring Island cheeses, or cooked from his first book, the David Wood Food Book. Now there is a new cookbook, ready to introduce a new generation or two to his straightforward, no-fuss way of looking at food. “It’s not what you eat, it’s how you make it that matters,” he says. Cooking for Friends is packed with terrific recipes using everyday ingredients that elevate a weeknight dinner or make a get-together special—scallops with lemon and olives, lamb shanks with figs and red wine, poached pears with caramel ginger sauce—and that allow the cook to enjoy the party too.

Debbie’s Fresh Take on DIY Debbie Travis was on our TV screens for a generation, teaching us how to transform spaces. But what happens when your life as a decorating guru is not cutting it anymore? In her new book Design your Next Chapter, Travis outlines her journey from being who Oprah dubbed “the master of paint and plaster” to becoming the operator of a 13th century Tuscan farmhouse turned hotel. Travis shares what helped her transform her life, and her stories and common sense advice will help motivate anyone who finds themselves standing at a crossroads wondering, “What’s next for me?”

Design your Next Chapter by Debbie Travis, 256 pages, Random House, $32.

Bus Fuller at the Pinnacle

Cooking for Friends by David Wood, 340 pages, Whitecap Books, $40.

Top: artist’s rendering of NAIT’s new culinary R&D facility; above: David Wood’s latest no-fuss cookbook; left: Debbie Travis’ latest book; below: Earl’s founder Bus Fuller, photo taken at his 90th birthday party.

Feeding the Freezing Father Several local chefs and restaurants are pulling together again this year to provide breakfast and dinner to the freezing father, Peter Burgess. Peter, his wife Candace and son Ben lost daughter and sister Erin in 2007 to a sudden illness. They know from personal experience the difference the Stollery makes in people’s lives and, for the third winter, Peter is camping out to raise funds for the children’s hospital. Todd Rutter, A Cappella Catering; Ryan Hotchkiss, Bündok; Cindy and Brad Lazarenko, Culina; Serge Bélair, Edmonton Conference Centre (formerly the Shaw); Lindsay Porter, London Local; Clayton Folkers, NAIT Baking; Charles Rothman; Shane Chartrand, SC at the River Cree; and Gregg Kenney, Vivo, are back again along with the Derrick Club.

Edmontonians have always had a fondness for Earl’s, starting with the first, which was in an old Denny’s on Jasper Avenue. The Earl’s empire now has 66 restaurants in two countries.

Bus Fuller also turned 90. What a year!

Karolina Turek Photography

Bus Fuller, the founder of Earl’s Restaurants, was presented with the Pinnacle Lifetime Achievement Award for his contribution to the Canadian hospitality industry late last year. “Receiving this award is like a hockey player winning the Stanley Cup,” he said. “I couldn’t have done this without my sons, our suppliers, and our diners, who are the best customers ever.

Earl’s is only getting started, I can’t wait to be a part of what our team achieves next.”

Peter, Candace and Ben are amazing individuals.

To help them raise funds for Stollery, donate at freezingfather.org or visit Peter at campsite #29 at the Rainbow Valley Camp Ground, from Sunday, January 6 to Friday, January 11. Peter will be joined by members of the Stollery Pediatric nursing team.

The Tomato | January February 2019 5

Keeping warm in Kananaskis Mary Bailey

Late last fall I spent a few days at the Kananaskis Lodge.

My memories of the lodge were dim, based on family trips long ago. I knew Calgarians loved Kananaskis, but I gravitated to the national parks for skiing and hiking.

I was curious about what to expect.

This is what I learned.

It’s not that far from Edmonton.

It really isn’t, just a few kilometres past the Cochrane turn off.

Easy peasy. It’s a pretty drive, too.

The lodge is gorgeous.

Pomeroy Hotels bought the property a few years back and spent millions to update and upgrade.

Top: the s’mores firepit; left: bartender Beaudean McQueen; right: executive chef Eric Beaupre oversees pizza prep; facing page: skaters on an actual pond.

6 January February 2019 | The Tomato

It has a spa. Yup, a really good Scandinavian-style spa, nestled in the trees, with outdoor pools and the whole shebang.

It has a fun lounge with a genial bartender named Beaudean McQueen.

No, I did not make that up.

You can go skating. On a pond!

They have a fire pit with a s’mores station.

They make good pizza.

You can bring your dog. Or spend time chatting with other people’s dogs.

It’s really quiet. You will sleep well.

The Blacktail Bar is where you will find Beaudean crafting delicious cocktails.

Comfortable, with sink-right-in seating along with leather belly-up-to-the bar stools, and right off the lobby, it’s a terrific meeting place après ski or for chatting with friends over a casual dinner. The menu has sharable snacks, several salads and sandwiches and an amazing burger made with Brant Lake Wagyu. If cocktails aren’t your thing, though I urge you to try a Beaudean libation, there are local brews on tap.

Forte is where you will find those pizzas cooked in wood burning ovens at the pizza bar. Family friendly, the large menu has an Italian focus and there are extensive breakfast offerings. We didn’t get past the pizzas. Sorry.

If you wanted a more elegant atmosphere, along with a really big steak, have dinner in the lovely Cedar Room, where you will meet Cedar’s sommelier Helene Scott. Originally from Stellenbosch, South Africa, Helene’s experience includes wineries in Kelowna. Affable, knowledgeable, far from pretentious—which is everything I want in a somm—Helene made great choices from an Okanagan-strong list.

The executive chef of the lodge, Eric Beaupre, is a Québec native with extensive experience with Fairmont in Montréal, Ottawa, Jasper and Whistler.

This is a homecoming of sorts as he was the executive sous at the lodge from 2008-2011. He’s a conscious chef, sourcing locally-grown and -raised vegetables and meats and working with suppliers like Canmore’s Valbella.

Please see “Keeping Warm” on page 29

Explore Canadian Cuisine Open at 5:00pm Tuesday through Saturday Located next to the Alberta Legislature & Grandin LRT station Overlooking the beautiful river valley with complimentary parking Make your reservation on OpenTable or by phone 9707 110 Street NW | thebutternuttree.ca | 780.760.2271

The Tomato | January February 2019 7

Discovering Amari Mary Bailey

8 January February 2019 | The Tomato

Italy has another long tradition other than wine, that of making amari—bitter concoctions made with found ingredients steeped in alcohol and used as medicine. They belong to a large category of beverages called digestivos and are called amari due to their bitterness, a defining characteristic of the spirit. Monks made amari in monasteries, people made them at home and in the pharmacy, using a dozen, or as many as 40, ingredients found in the woods and gardens.

Each amari (the plural of amaro) would be different, as the taste depended on the landscape.

A family would gather bark, flowers, roots and leaves from the nearby forest or the garden and steep them in high-proof spirit, allowing the various ingredients to combine into unique flavour profiles. They would then season with water, sugar or even vermouth and age for several months, even years.

This ethos of regionality, frugality and inventiveness, of homemade-ness, using bits of things found nearby, still infuses modern amari. Perhaps they are made in a factory, rather than in the shed down the garden, but they continue to reflect the area in which they are made.

Varnelli’s Amaro Sibilla is made with honey from the Sibillini mountains; Braulio Amaro Alpino with its pine and balsam notes could only be from the Alps; Ischia Sapori Rucolino is made with two types of arugula found only on the island of Ischia; Averna was created

by Benedictine monks using myrtle, sage and juniper, found near their monastery in central Sicily.

Daniel Costa tasting amari in progress at Bar Bricco.

Curtis Comeau Photograhy

Amari always have bitterness (amaro means bitter in Italian) but the flavour profile will vary depending on where it’s from. They can be citrusy, floral, piney, rooty, licorishy and range in sweetness from dry (Fernet-Branca) to quite sweet.

Generally they are drunk chilled and straight, though Nonino Amaro is lovely on the rocks. Amari pop up in many cocktails, both classic and modern, or in

the kitchen. Uccellino made an amazing gelati using Fernet-Branca Menta and Corso serves a Nonino affogato.

Try something different every time you are in a restaurant that stocks a wide selection of amari. When you are travelling in Italy and someone offers you their homemade amaro? Dive in.

Or, when you are in one of those little coffee bars found on the square in every Italian town? With a bevy of bottles with colourful labels and incomprehensible script on the back shelf? Ask them to suggest the local amaro. It will be a taste of place like no other.

We can credit Daniel Costa, chef owner of Corso 32, Uccellino and Bar Bricco for being the father of amari in Edmonton. Daniel was the first to carry an extensive selection of the bitter digestivos, and truly encourage people to try them after dinner. Thanks to Daniel, along with a few creative bartenders and other restaurants such as Cibo Bistro, we are now seeing a selection of amari that is second to none.

“When I was 20 on my first culinary adventure in Rome with my dad, we went to a restaurant that one of his friends had sent us too,” says Daniel.

“They set out a bunch of traditional dishes, a typical Roman meal.

Continued on next page

The Tomato | January February 2019 9

Amari Continued from previous page

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“At the end of the meal two bottles of amari were set on the table, to show appreciation to the guest. They would leave the whole bottle and you would help yourself. You would have one drink of each. No one gets too excessive in Italy.

“It all started off as medicinal, because of how Italians eat and being so attentive to digestion. Amari assists with digestion. I became obsessed with all these different types—I read a lot about them. I was into tasting a lot of artisan amari on trips to Italy that I couldn’t get here. I kept asking reps to bring in more amari.

Some digestivos have been in Canada for a long time—Averno, Jägermeister, grappa, my dad had them in the cabinet.

But there is more artisan amari available now.

“When we first opened Corso nobody ordered amaro, nobody would order Lambrusco either. My philosophy was to start giving it away. I would walk about the restaurant with a bottle and glasses explaining what it was.

Wilfred’s Reanimator, recipe at right.

10 January February 2019 | The Tomato

“Most amari have secret recipes. Braulio is one of my favourites, it’s barrel-aged and they still forage all of their own ingredients.

“We started to make our own amari, now that it’s legal to make infusions.

It’s exciting, I thought about different flavour profiles and made my own recipes—I have a notebook full of notes and flavours. I went into the forest and picked pine needles and ferns. I brought back bay leaves from a tree in my family’s garden in San Pietro al Tanagro, a very old tree.

“We are making five amari—one is herbaceous with mint and gentian; another is Christmassy with pine and juniper berries, and one is with honey and burnt pine. They just finished steeping—roots, barks and aromatics in 96 per cent proof alcohol. Then we will season with sugar and water, then age for several months.

“Amari is not mass produced, they are an experience,” says Daniel. “People are coming around to that. They are more interested in this sort of thing.”

“I love amari and all kinds of European herbal liqueurs,” says James Grant, bar

manager at Wilfred’s. “My first exposure was Fernet-Branca, which is a beautiful example of one style.

“What I love about amari is that there is so much complexity in the flavours and they do multiple duties in a cocktail, such as adding bitterness or herbaceousness. Fernet is wonderful in a cocktail because it’s dry. A tincture does

the same thing in an Old Fashioned, or Averna replaces vermouth in a black Manhattan. The style is so broad, it fulfills many roles.

“I really love Cynar now. It has so much going for it, lower alcohol, it’s priced affordably, it’s so easy going and so Please see “Amari” on page 23.

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Available locally at several cafés, and from Sysco Edmonton, Galimax Trading Inc., Mo-Na Food Distributors and at the Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market.

“Thank you for supporting local.”

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Cocktails with amari The Reanimator Cynar is a relatively new amaro, brought to the market in 1952, made with 13 botanicals and artichokes. A versatile spirit, it’s a little less bitter and is marvelous in cocktails.

“This tastes a bit like an espresso martini, or a weird pint of Guinness.”

– James Grant, Wilfred’s. ½ oz

Cynar

½ oz

Green Chartruese

1

egg white

¼ oz

demerara syrup

3½ oz

espresso stout

Shake briefly with ice, strain into a Collins glass and serve with a sprinkle of nutmeg. Serves 1.

780.461.3176 • Making great tea since 1999 • vitalities.ca

Chocolate ganache... & praline tart with raspberries?

Whatever you’re having...

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Montenegro 75 This amaro from Bologna was created by Stanislao Cobianchi in 1885 from 40 botanicals and named after Princess Elena of Montenegro (it was her wedding year after all). Not too sweet, with well-balanced bitterness and floral, citrus, earthy spice and subtle black tea notes.

West Edmonton Mall • Entrance 58

1 oz

gin

¾ oz

Montenegro Amaro

½ oz

fresh lemon juice

½ oz

simple syrup.

780.483.103 • www.aligrawineandspirits.com

@Aligrawine facebook.com/aligrawine

In a cocktail shaker with ice, combine all ingredients and shake until well-chilled. Strain into a tall glass, or large wine glass, with fresh ice, and top with an ounce of sparkling wine. Garnish with a few lemon wheels.

The Toronto “Robert Vermeire, in his 1922 book Cocktails: How to Mix Them, called this the ‘Fernet cocktail enjoyed by the Canadians in Toronto.’” –James Grant, Wilfred’s 2 oz

rye

¼ oz

Fernet-Branca

¼ oz

simple syrup

2 dashes Angostura bitters

Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass filled with ice. Stir for around 20 seconds and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Express an orange peel over the drink and then drop in for garnish.

The Tomato | January February 2019 11

The Year of The

DUMPLING

MasterChef finalist and dumpling maker Mai Nguyen in her kitchen.

Photo: Mai Nguyen

12 January February 2019 | The Tomato

Anytime is a good time to eat dumplings but during the Lunar New Year (February 5-19) dumplings have great significance.

Not only do they bring luck, eating dumplings made with cabbage on the eve of the holiday ensures fair skin and a gentle manner. Order or make lots because leftover dumplings means abundance in the year ahead. Another tip to remember when making dumplings— be sure to include lots of pleats as the pleats symbolize wealth. Flat, pleatless dumplings are not a good thing!

Expert dumpling makers (and eaters) Andrew Fung of XIX, Mai Nguyen, and Ray and Chris of Honest Dumplings all have a slightly different take on the dumpling. What they did agree on is that dumplings are delicious and we should all eat more of them, especially during the Chinese New Year, in 2019, the year of the Pig.

For Andrew Fung, the executive chef and coowner of XIX restaurants, dumplings are all about family.

“Dumplings are democratic. Every Asian family eats dumplings, rich or poor.

Every Asian kid thinks his mum makes the best dumplings, but my mum really does make the best.

“With dumplings it’s important to always have enough. Make extra, it’s good to have leftovers.”

Pork and Pak Choi Dumpling The cabbage dumpling is traditional for Chinese New Years Eve. Use store-bought Double Happiness brand wonton wrapper or round dumpling wrappers.

1 c

water

2 T

grated ginger

¼ c

vegetable oil

550 g

ground pork

200 g

pak choi, finely chopped

•

•

•

1 bundle green onion, finely chopped

salt to taste

Put green onion and ginger into water and bring it to boil for a minute then cool down. Add rest of the ingredients and mix well. Lightly dust a baking sheet with cornstarch. Place about 1½-2 teaspoons of filling in the center of a wrapper. Moisten the edge of dumpling skin with water. Fold over the filling to form a half-moon shape. Press edges to seal. Place on prepared baking sheet.

Repeat with remaining filling and wrappers.

Makes about 30 dumplings.

Beef Dumpling

“I eat dumplings all the time. I especially like them at midnight in chicken broth.

I also love prawn dumplings and there is one I like that has a tiny bit of prawn with pork, bacon fat and wood ear mushrooms.

1 c

“The Chinese New Year tradition I grew up with in Hong Kong was deep-fried dumplings (pastry stuffed with meat) which were put in a tin can. When people came to the house, we would open the can and give them a dumpling.

“Dumplings are classic homemade food.

We make them together. My mum makes the fillings and we all wrap, then put them in the freezer in packs of 20.

Local Seasonal Organic Sustainable

water

1 bundle green onion, finely chopped 15 g

grated ginger

440 g

ground beef

150 g

ground pork

½ T

white pepper

2 T

soy sauce

1 T

rice wine

½ T

sugar

780-705-4928 12539-102 AVENUE EDMONTON, AB

Bring green onion and ginger into water and bring it to boil for a minute then cool down. Add rest of the ingredients and mix well. Lightly dust a baking sheet with cornstarch. Place about 1½ teaspoons of filling in the center of a wrapper. Moisten the edge of dumpling skin with water. Fold over the filling to form a half-moon shape. Press edges to seal. Place on prepared baking sheet.

Repeat with remaining filling and wrappers.

Makes about 30 dumplings.

Continued on next page

The Tomato | January February 2019 13

Dumplings Continued from previous page

different flavours, different styles too, sometimes won ton, sometimes panfried. I do several pork dumplings. I like lamb in dumplings too.

“Asian dumplings get a bad rap,” says Mai Nguyen, scientist, former health and safety advisor, MasterChef finalist and dumpling maker.

“I use dumplings as a vehicle for flavour—if I’m making a ragù, I put in a dumpling. I have a vision of my dumplings—I am particular on how the dish is plated, how you eat the dumpling with a special sauce.

“Dumplings deserve more respect. China created them, and every culture has them. What is ravioli or a pyrohy but a dumpling?

I don’t want to open a restaurant, but I do plan to do way more pop ups.”

“Yet, people turn up their nose at dumplings, they think of them as cheap or low value.

“My goal is to change that. Ravioli can be $30 a plate. It’s the same amount of work as a dumpling, the same food cost,” she says.

“I loved eating dumplings and wanted to learn how to make them. At first it was a challenge, everybody has a story about making dumplings with their grandmother, but I am self-taught.”

Mai works part time at the Prairie Noodle Shop and Biera and creates pop-up dinners featuring her amazing dumplings.

“After MasterChef I thought, ‘gotta do this full time.’ I quit my full-time job and started applying at restaurants.”

She found working in a restaurant kitchen radically different from other work environments. “Most cooks would say food prepping is the best part of their shift; being on the line can be very stressful.”

You’ll find Mai at Prairie Noodle folding dumplings. “We always have rotating

Also on the horizon is Gourmai Dumplings, Mai’s nascent dumpling business. Stay tuned!

Mai’s Lamb Gyro Dumplings 2 lbs ground lamb 3 T

grated yellow onion

1 T

minced garlic

2 t

oregano

1 t

ground rosemary

1 t

cumin

2 t

paprika

1 T

sugar

2 t

sea salt

1 t

ground pepper

60-80 round dumpling wrappers.

Mix all ingredients together (not the wrappers) until well incorporated. Once the filling is fully mixed, start folding dumplings. Put 2 teaspoons of filling in the middle of a dumpling wrapper, then wet the edges and bring them together forming a tight seal.

To cook the dumplings, arrange them in a non-stick pan (leave enough room between each dumpling so they are not

Where to Eat Dumplings Shanghai 456 14456 118 Avenue, 780-451-8333, shanghai456.com Best known for the Shanghai specialty, xiao long bao (soup dumpling)

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14 January February 2019 | The Tomato

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Shanghai Grill 16336 111 Avenue, 780-930-1828, shanghaigrilledmonton.com Delicious pan fried, steamed and xiao long bao are available at this restaurant tucked away in a strip mall next to Job Site Workwear.

Prairie Noodle Shop 10350 124 Street, 780-705-1777, prairienoodleshop.ca Best known for its modern take on ramen. You can also enjoy Mai Nguyen’s daily selection of dumplings.

touching), add 2 tablespoons oil, ¼-cup water, and turn the heat to high. When most of the water has evaporated, turn the heat down to medium-low. The dumplings are ready when all the water has cooked off and the dumplings are a light brown. To ensure dumplings are cooked to a safe temperature, stick a thermometer in the center (the temperature must be at least 72ºC). Serve the dumplings with a tzatziki sauce or a yogurt-based sauce.

Makes 60-80 dumplings.

“We do many limited editions,” says Chris.

Chris’ dumpling epiphany happened in Shanghai. “We were told the best dumplings in Shanghai were down this alley—a hole in the wall, just a lean-to and an old lady,” says Chris. “There was a long lineup, 30-50 people waiting for her dumplings, made with daikon, dried fungus, pork and shepherd’s purse, a green that is a local favourite. She cooked them in the cast iron pan with oil and water. In the alley. They were worth the wait.”

Ray Ma and Chris Lerohl started Honest Dumplings in 2014 with a farmers’ market stand.

Honest Dumplings Truffle Oil Oyster Mushroom Dumplings

Now you can find their dumplings on their website, at various retailers such as the Italian Centre, Blush Lane, and Planet Organic; via Spud and the Organic Box delivery services and in Calgary and Vancouver. Their storefront, at 10552 114 Street, opens early this year.

Dough

“I grew up in China, where we made dumplings together as a family,” says Ray. “We always ate them at Chinese New Year. Now we have two kids and I plan to continue that tradition. My dad passed away right when we started the business, but my mum works in the business with us, got permanent residency this year working for the company.”

With both Chris and Ray’s mothers working at Honest Dumplings, this really is a family business.

3 c organic unbleached flour 1 c water (room temperature) * 2 t Italian parsley, chopped 1 t olive oil 1 t sea salt

Mix flour with the parsley and salt. Add the water and oil, mix well. Knead for about 7 minutes or until smooth. Let it rest for at least 30 minutes. Use a rolling pin or a pasta sheeter to roll out dough.

Use a 9-cm round cookie cutter to cut wrappers. * The flour or water quantities may need to be adjusted to form a smooth dough that comes together but is not sticky. Add more flour if it is too sticky. Add more water if the dough doesn’t come together.

Honest Dumplings incorporates ingredients and flavours not generally associated with traditional dumplings.

Ray is the creator of the flavour combos.

Filling

“We see the dumpling as a platform to do different things—not just Asian flavours.

We like to use seasonal local ingredients when we can. We make our dough with organic flour, salt and oil and colour it with carrot juice and beet juice,” says Ray.

2 T white truffle oil

“We love to experiment with different flavours, such as smoky corn and vegetables with corn flour in the dough.

The Chinese Lunar New Year limited edition pack has dumplings made with mapo tofu, pineapple sweet and sour pork, lamb flavoured with cumin and dill with a dough made with Parmesan and white wine.”

2 c chopped white onion 7 c chopped fresh oyster mushrooms 1 c Italian parsley, chopped ½ T sea salt

Sauté the chopped onion for about 5 minutes until translucent. Transfer the cooked onion into a bowl, add in the mushrooms, parsley and salt.

Drizzle filling with truffle oil. Mix well.

Put about 2 teaspoons of filling in each wrapper and fold it into a dumpling.

Makes approximately 70 dumplings.

Tomato editor Mary Bailey likes her dumplings steamed.

The Tomato | January February 2019 15

Wine Maven Hubert Weber, the winemaker at Bodega Y Cavas Weinert, visited recently reintroducing Albertans to the Argentinian producer’s exceptionally long-lived wines with a tasting at the Wine Room and a dinner at the Glass Monkey. Hubert is a fan of extended aging in large neutral barrels before the wines are bottled. “Four years in casks shows better the fruit’s sweetness and allows the tannins to soften,” says Hubert. This means the wines come to us with some aging and are supremely drinkable right away. Of course, they can always be aged for longer too; how nice to have some choices.

Above: Hubert Weber of Bodega Weinert; at right Richard Ellis from New Zealand’s Greywacke wines.

I am a massive fan of Kevin Judd and Greywacke wines from New Zealand, so was excited to meet Richard Ellis, who makes the wine with Kevin. Richard had two bottles of Sauvignon Blanc and one Pinot Noir with him. The interesting thing about their Sauv Blanc is that they make two styles, one a regular style (if I can say that, as it’s still pretty handsoff winemaking all round) crisp and flavourful, made in a tank with conventional yeasts, perhaps more typical of Marlborough SB. The Wild Sauvignon is barrel fermented using just the yeasts that come in on the grapes.

“Tank fermentation with wild yeasts is challenging,” says Richard, “whereas there is a bit of spontaneous malolactic in the barrels.” They don’t want too much as it makes the wines creamy, so they use temperature in both styles to control the malo, the bacterial fermentation that converts malic acid to the softer lactic acid.

Both are aromatic, beautiful handmade wines—if you were thinking New Zealand savvy has nothing to offer anymore, try theses.

The Pinots are well-structured with lots of fruit and great acidity. “Our growing season in general is long and cool,” says Richard. “We had the wrong clones for our site at first. But now we have the right clones planted on both hillsides. It’s like a big baseball glove catching all the sun in the day, then it’s cool at night.”

Veneto wine producer Bertani is back to its former glory—old school Vapolicella and Amarone made with minimal intervention, long drying (appassimento) of the grapes by nature, then long aging of the wines.

No longer family owned, but in the care of thoughtful people who plan to steward the land and the vines.

The new owners invested 90 million Euros to bring the property up to snuff. It’s now sustainable, and the grapes are certified organic.

Ripasso is made by refermenting the Valpolicella wine on Amarone skins— and it can result in a heavy, syrupy wine. Not the single vineyard Valpolicella Ripasso Tenuta Novare. It has an elegance and depth of flavour that is bewitching—delicious and drinks well now. The Soave is no slouch—minerally, with a concentration of flavour due to skin contact and time spent in old big old Slovenian casks.

The 2009 Amarone is spectacular—elegant, so juicy, gorgeous floral and leather notes, fresh and dried cherries, finishes with chocolatey plum flavours and a subtle sour cherry note on the end. Beautiful.

Federico Polacco, Bertani.

16 January February 2019 | The Tomato

Mary Bailey Try some new Italian wines from sunny Basilicata and Campania.

Madonna delle Grazie grows the native Aglianico grape on 8.5 hectares near the town of Venosa, Basilicata. Aglianico thrives in the volcanic soils of Mount Vulture, creating wines of intense flavour and individuality. “The winery is tiny, they farm organically and make the wines with the indigenous yeasts,” says Susan Giacomin of WineQuest, the importer of Madonna delle Grazie.

“They are the only ones I know of who do an Aglianico in bianco,” says Susan, referring to the Leuconoe, the fresh white with its slightly pink colour and lovely herbaceous, lime and white peach notes. “And the rosato!” she says, referring to the Sagaris, with its bright strawberry and cherry aromas and slightly heavier weight. “It’s totally honest and has substance. It’s a meat or cold weather rosato,” she says.

The Messer Oto, named after the fountain in the centre of Venosa, is an intense ruby colour with spicy red fruit aromas, full bodied with silky tannins and a long finish. These are lovely wines.

Silvia Imperato of Montevetrano in Campania is best known for her Colli di Salerno blend that inspired Robert Parker to call it the Sassacaia of the south. Her newest wines are a 100 per cent Aglianico from younger vines called Core Campania IGT and the Core Bianco IGT, a blend of Greco and Fiano, the white grapes of Campania. The white will be the biggest surprize for most wine drinkers. Medium bodied with an evanescent floral quality that keeps you going back for another sniff. It’s round-textured without being too rich, with a stunningly fine balance and savoury mineral notes. Drink with cheeses, roast chicken, cacio e pepe pasta. Drink the red with hearty warming winter dishes.

The Sichel family has been in the wine business in Bordeaux since 1883.

They are probably best known for the two cru classé estates they own and operate in Margaux. “Palmer was very run down when my grandfather bought it. It was a risky business then, and we’re still partners with the same two families he partnered with,” says James Sichel, of the seventh generation in the business. In 1961 the family bought d’Angludet, also in bad shape. They own several other estates and have a significant negociant business, with a difference. They don’t buy finished wine which is the standard Bordeaux negociant practice. They buy the fruit and make wine at their own winery. “My father built Belair, our winemaking facility, in 1967,” says James, “in order to control the process and the quality.”

EVENT CALENDAR JANUARY 11-19 Tour d’Alsace Week The Marc, 780-429-2828

SUNDAY, JANUARY 13 Sunday Supper Club, Alsace The Marc, 780-429-2828

WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 16 Culina Muttart Ukrainian New Year Buffet Pop Up culinafamily.com

SATURDAY, JANUARY 19 Run & Brunch with the Running Room XIX Terwillegar, 780-395-1119

WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 23 Culina Muttart National Pie Day culinafamily.com

MONDAY, JANUARY 28

“There is a huge movement in all of Bordeaux to biodynamic, organic and sustainable production, he says. “We expect half the production to be so by 2025. Both d’Angludet and Palmer are biodynamic.”

Best Wines of 2018 Dinner with Vines Wine Merchants XIX Terwillegar, 780-395-1119

Three wines stood out for their exceptional quality to price ratio, always important, especially after the holidays.

Domaine de Pellehaut Rose, from Gascony, easy drinking and well-priced.

TUESDAY, JANUARY 29

The Château Trillol, from a windy and rocky site in Cucugnan, Corbières. The site is forbidding. “There were 15 producers here 30 years ago. Now we are the only ones,” said James. The wine, a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan is tasty—elegant, not hot, with some lively tension, and a bit of bacon and plummy fruit on the palate.

The Sichel Margaux continues to be one of the best value Bordeaux. “Bordeaux wines give value, always, even if they are not the least expensive wine on the shelf,” says James.

“We don’t make every year, 2015 was considered an exceptional vintage in Margaux and St Emilion. Margaux is in our DNA,” says James.

The blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot is elegant, aromatic, well-balanced and expressive.

Find these wines at Color de Vino, Jasper Wine Market, Hicks and other fine wine shops. Use the search feature found on the Liquor Connect web site for more location details.

Best Wines of 2018 Dinner with Vines Wine Merchants XIX St Albert, 780-569-1819

WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 30 Best of Belgium Beer Dinner Craft Beer Market, RiceHowardEvents@CRAFTBeerMarket.ca

SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 10 Sunday Supper Club, Bordeaux The Marc, 780-429-2828

WEDNESDAY & THURSDAY FEBRUARY 13 -14 Culina Muttart Hungry for Love Pop Up, culinafamily.com

FRIDAY & SATURDAY FEBRUARY 15-16 Winefest, celebratewinefest.com

The Tomato | January February 2019 17

Soup

for a Cold Winter’s Day Make soups with Alberta pulses—hearty, good for you and easy on the budget.

kosher salt and freshcracked black pepper

1 med fennel bulb, medium dice

Alberta is known for pulses—lentils, great northern beans, chickpeas and split peas. They are an ideal ingredient for January—inexpensive, filling, chock full of fibre, protein and vitamins—and lend themselves to soups of every description, especially vegan or vegetarian choices.

Pulses pair well with the winter pantry— sweet potato, squash, winter greens, celery, onions and carrots, sage, bay and thyme.

squeeze

lime juice

1 Parmigiano rind

cilantro (optional)

2 handfuls day old bread ripped into small pieces

Use water, home-made vegetable, chicken or turkey stock or low-sodium, store-bought stock. If you are using store-bought stock (even low sodium) it’s unlikely you will need to add salt during cooking. If you have time, use dried rather than canned pulses as they are less expensive, are not processed with salt and taste better. Split peas and red and yellow lentils (dal) also cook very quickly.

Squash and Lentil Soup with Coconut The coconut milk adds a creamy, satisfying texture.

1 T

oil

1 sm

onion, diced

1 butternut squash, peeled, seeded and diced 1

carrot, diced

1 T

curry powder

¾ c

red lentils

4 c

stock

1 can

coconut milk

18 January February 2019 | The Tomato

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven or large pot, over medium heat, then add the onion, squash and carrots. Cook for one minute, then stir in the curry powder.

Sauté over medium heat for about five minutes, until the onions are translucent and the squash is starting to soften. Stir in the lentils, stock and coconut milk.

Bring to a boil, then turn the heat down and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes until everything is tender.

Using a hand blender or in a food processor, blitz until the texture is fairly smooth. Check the seasoning and, right before serving, squeeze in lime and scatter over cilantro if using.

Serves 4-6.

Daniel Costa’s Ribollita “This classic Tuscan soup is best served warm as it allows you to fully taste all of the ingredients.

You can also add pancetta for a nice pork fat essence but I prefer the pure flavour of vegetables. I like to fry the ribollita the following day in a hot cast iron pan with lots of olive oil.” –Daniel Costa, Corso 32 1 c white beans (great northern) soaked in water over night 1 lg bunch Tuscan black kale, washed, stem removed and roughly chopped 1 lg carrot, medium dice 2 stalks celery, medium dice 1 med red onion, medium dice

8 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

3 T

tomato paste

1 c extra virgin olive oil plus more for drizzling on top 9 leaves

fresh sage

Mussel and Chick Pea Soup with Fennel and Lemon Adapted from the New Italian Kitchen by Ethan Stowell and Leslie Miller, Ten Speed Press.

2 t

extra-virgin olive oil

3 cloves

garlic, thinly sliced

Place the pre-soaked beans in a medium-sized pot with enough water to completely cover them. Add 4 cloves of garlic and 3 fresh sage leaves, cook for about 1 hour or until tender. Do not let boil. Add more water if necessary, stir occasionally.

pinch

chili flakes

In a medium-sized pot, heat the olive oil over medium high heat. Add the carrot, celery, onion, fennel and sage, season with salt and pepper. Cook until lightly golden (about 15 minutes), stirring frequently. Add the garlic and continue to cook for an additional 3 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute, stir frequently. Add the cooked beans, kale, and Parmigiano rind. Add enough water to just cover the vegetables. Bring to a boil, then turn down to a simmer.

Allow to cook for 45 minutes, adding more water if needed. Add the bread to the soup and allow to cook for 5 minutes, add more water to keep it a thick stew consistency, stir frequently. Allow the soup to rest for 10 minutes, season to taste. Serve with a generous amount of high-quality extra virgin olive oil.

salt and fresh-cracked pepper

Serves 4-6.

1½ lb fresh mussels, debearded and scrubbed 1 c

white wine

1 c

chickpeas (pre-soaked)

1 sm bulb fennel, tough outer leaves removed, sliced

juice of 1 lemon

3 T

chopped fresh parsley

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat; add the garlic and chili flakes. Before the garlic colours, add the mussels and white wine.

Increase the heat to high, cover, and let the mussels steam for 3 to 4 minutes, or until they just open. Discard any mussels that don’t open and transfer the others to a baking dish with any cooking liquid that is in the pan. Set in the refrigerator until cool enough to handle. Once cool, remove the mussels from the shells, and discard the shells. In a medium-size saucepan, combine the mussels, cooking liquid, chickpeas and sliced fennel and heat through. The fennel should retain a bit of a bite. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the lemon juice and parsley.

Serves 2-4.

Split Pea and Cauliflower Soup Adapted from the Alberta Pulse Growers 2 T canola oil, cold pressed if available 2–3 cloves garlic, minced 1 med yellow onion, chopped 4 c chopped fresh or frozen cauliflower ½ c dried green split peas, drained and rinsed ½ t

fresh thyme, chopped

4 c

stock

kosher salt and freshcracked black pepper /3 c crumbled sharp cheddar cheese

1

In a large heavy saucepan or Dutch oven heat the canola oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and onion, sauté until caramelized and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Stir in the cauliflower, split peas, thyme and stock. Cover and simmer for about 20 minutes, or until the peas are tender. Remove from the heat and blitz to a chunky texture. (If using a blender, be careful transferring the hot liquid.)

Season to taste. Serve with crumbled cheese and a drizzle of cold pressed canola oil if desired.

Serves 4-6.

Spicy Roasted Sweet Potato Lentil Soup This soup is built on a base of roasted vegetables which adds depth of flavour. This part could also be done ahead. You could use a bit of tomato paste if the tomatoes look terrible.

If using yellow or red lentils, check after 15 minutes or so. They cook much more quickly.

1 lg sweet potato, rough chopped 2 sm red onion, rough chopped 4 Roma tomato, halved 3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped ½ t

chili flakes

2 t

ground cumin

kosher salt and freshcracked black pepper 4 c

stock

1 c

green or brown lentils

plain yogurt and cilantro or parsley to garnish

Preheat oven the over to 350ºF. Toss the potato, onion, tomato and garlic in a scant amount of oil and season with salt and pepper, chili flakes and cumin, and

place on a sheet pan. Cover with foil and bake for 1 hour or until vegetables are tender and golden. Transfer roasted vegetables to a large pot and pour in 1 cup stock. Blitz until smooth then bring to the boil. Add the lentils and the rest of the stock, reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, for about 30 minutes or until lentils are tender. Check seasoning.

Serve, topped with a dollop of yogurt and some parsley.

It’s Valentine’s Day! Treat the one you love to a romantic evening of fine food in a relaxed ambiennce.

Enjoy a fabulous three-course menu created by

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Serves 4.

~ $125 per person ~

Chickpea and Pasta Soup

includes tax, gratuity and a rose

Adapted from Jamie’s Italy, uses canned chickpeas for ease. Hearty, quick and kid friendly.

3 T

olive oil

2 stalks

celery, rough chopped

1

carrot, rough chopped

1 sm

yellow onion, rough chopped

3 sprigs

rosemary, minced

6 c

stock

1 can (15 oz) chickpeas, drained and rinsed 8 oz

cavatelli pasta

kosher salt and freshcracked black pepper, to taste 2 T

hardware grill hardware grill hardware grill est. 1996

est. 1996

est. 1996

hardwaregrill.com 780.423.0969 97 Street & Jasper Ave.

minced parsley

Parmesan cheese, for serving

Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high; add rosemary, celery, carrot and onion and cook until soft, 8 to 10 minutes. Add stock and chickpeas; simmer 5 minutes. Remove half the chickpeas and purée until smooth; return chickpeas to pan. Add pasta and cook until al dente, 10 minutes; season with salt and pepper. Stir in parsley and serve with grated Parmesan.

Serves 4-6.

est. 1996

est. 1996

est. 1996

artisan food market

charcuterie, sausages, & preserves The trusted charcuterie supplier for over 30 Edmonton restaurants our retail market is now open on 124th St!

Creamy Red Lentil and Sweet Potato Soup with Chard 1 T

canola oil or butter

1 sm

onion, diced

1 T

curry paste

4 c

stock

½ c

split red lentils

1 lg sweet potato, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces, or so 1 c

milk

Please see “Soup” on page 22

587.786.3560 | www.meuwlys.com | 10706 124th St.

The Tomato | January February 2019 19

Beer Guy Happy New Beer “Always in Alberta there is a fresh wind blowing.”

- Nellie McClung I moved back to Alberta in 2001 after years of exile in Ontario. I love Ontario.

I love all the parts of this big, beautiful country, but I missed Alberta. I missed the openness, the vigour, the willingness to try new things, that can-do, entrepreneurial spirit of Alberta. What I didn’t miss was the boom and bust cycle. But in tough times, enterprising Albertans get out and get it done. Today, that spirit is fueling Alberta’s thriving craft beer industry, now numbering more than 100 breweries.

Calgary and small town Alberta led the way early, but Edmonton got moving in 2018 with a bevy of new breweries. Analog, Omen and Sea Change opened in southeast Edmonton not far from Alley Kat, Blind Enthusiasm and Situation. Polar Park is promised for January 2019 nearby on 80 Avenue. Endeavour opened in St. Albert while Two Sergeants moved from Fort Saskatchewan into Edmonton. Ale Architect took a different path, with no physical location, instead brewing their uncommon ales at existing facilities.

These new kids on the block have a lot in common. An enthusiasm for great craft beer—of course. But talking to many of the founders, owners and brewers, the word that kept coming up was community. Omen Brewing is a family affair, co-owned by dad Tony and his sons Rhys, Spencer and Andrew Oswald. Andrew told me what surprised him most after opening was the sense of community in the craft beer scene; “We knew the craft community was tight knit but we didn’t expect it to be as family-like as it is. When we needed to borrow a piece of equipment we only had to make one phone call.”

20 January February 2019 | The Tomato

Husband and wife team Matthew and Georgia Atkins founded Endeavour Brewing as a family and communityoriented place. Matthew told me he fell in love with the culture of craft beer a decade ago at a Houston brewpub—people sharing pizza and beer at picnic tables in the sun, playing board games and actually talking to each other. Ian McIntosh and Taylor Falk of Sea Change Brewing told the late, lamented Vue Magazine about wanting to build a sense of community with their brewery; “We come from a place in the Edmonton music scene where everyone was always so inclusive and welcoming. We want the same vibe that existed when we played shows.” Analog Brewing co-owner Bryan Launier told me his Ready Paler One beer goes back to him enjoying a Brewdog Dead Pony Pale Ale while on a trip to Prague.

Back in Canada he reached out to Scotland’s Brewdog about the recipe.

Brewdog responded by sharing their entire beer recipe book, rejigged for home brewers. As Launier notes, “Super punk and so damn cool.”

The other word that comes up is creativity. Matthew Atkins of Endeavour and Mason Pimm of Ale Architect are both mechanical engineers. Pimm told me about “struggling to fill a creative void in my career as an engineer” and falling in love with craft beer. He says Ale Architect is all about imaginative, quality beers—“always interesting, never boring.” Engineers like to make things, Atkins says, but they have to stay within the lines; he needed more room for originality. Home brewing became his creative outlet away from his job, until he was able to make the leap to brewery owner in 2018. He knows, like many Albertans do, that craft beer is Alberta’s other liquid gold. A renewable resource!

Peter Bailey

New Brew Six Pack Start the new year off right with new brew from brand new Edmonton (and St. Albert) craft breweries. The best and sometimes only way to get these beers is at the brewery. Bring your growler!

Ale Architect Megamojo Brut Imperial Stout, Edmonton With the world’s first Brut Imperial Stout, Ale Architect meets their goal to brew interesting, never boring beer. Brut means dry, something achieved with the addition of an enzyme, and Imperial means big, at 11.8% ABV from huge amounts of eight different malts. Black, complex, intensely flavoured with a very, very dry finish.

@themarcedmonton

www.themarc.ca

Analog Ready Paler One Super Session Ale, Edmonton Analog co-owner Bryan Launier developed this recipe after drinking a Scottish beer in the Czech Republic and discussions with brewers in Utah. A supremely quaffable pale ale with citrus notes, a clean, dry finish and an aroma of lemongrass and cherries.

Added oats give this beer a big body and a silky mouthfeel.

Endeavour Express ESB, St. Albert Endeavour’s Matthew Atkins began home brewing 20 years ago in university, and this ESB (Extra Special Bitter) was one of his early favourites. Over the years he refined the recipe, combining his love of British beer styles with his commitment to local suppliers, replacing British malt with Chinook pale malt from Alberta’s Origin Malting.

You have great taste. Indulge it.

Omen Medieval Wheat Dunkelweizen, Edmonton The family that brews together, stays together. Edmonton’s Oswald family spent time separately in Europe, where they developed a love of traditional Europeanstyle dark beer, like this German-style dunkel (dark) weizen (wheat) beer. Dark brown, creamy and full-bodied, with crisp, citrus flavours.

downtown Edmonton 10053 JASPER AVENUE 780.401.2222 UNIONBANKINN.COM

Sea Change Irish Red Ale, Edmonton Talk about local – the tables in the Sea Change tap room are made from refinished boards recovered from the Cloverdale footbridge, demolished in 2016. Look at those boards, remember the Folk Fests you got to by walking over that bridge, and drink this delightful red ale, nicely malty and nutty, finishing dry, with enough bitterness to keep you interested.

Two Sergeants Blatchford English Mild, Edmonton After three years in Fort Saskatchewan, Two Sergeants made the jump to the big city in the fall of 2018, moving into the old Iconoclast Coffee space, right next to the Brewery District in Oliver. This English Mild is brewed with all-Alberta malts from Red Shed Malting and Origin Malting and is the first beer brewed at the new location.

As a librarian, Peter Bailey knows that libraries, like craft beer, are all about community and creativity too. He’s @libarbarian on Twitter and Instagram.

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The Tomato | January February 2019 21

Soup

Enjoy this taste of the Prairies created by chef Jamie Harling.

It’s Soup Time!

Enjoy a bowl of chef Jamie Harling’s Moroccan Spiced Red Lentil Soup at Italian Centre Shop Cafés and support Food for Thought.

The soup, made with hearty Alberta red lentils, tomato, red pepper and redolent with the flavours of North Africa, will be available for purchase starting February 6 at Italian Centre Shop Cafés.

Proceeds go to Edmonton’s Food for Thought, which provides breakfast, lunch or snacks to over 13 schools in the Edmonton area— satisfying hungry schoolchildren with nutritious, whole food so that they can focus on learning.

Find Jamie’s soup at these Edmonton Italian Centre Shop locations: • 10878 95 Street • 17010 90 Avenue • 5028 104A Street

The Alberta Culinary Tourism Alliance (ACTA) worked with the Alberta Pulse Growers (APG) to develop an Alberta chef’s recipe to take to market. Chef Jamie Harling’s soup was the successful recipe. APG and ACTA thank the Food Processing Development Centre in Leduc for their role in creating a shelf-stable, ready-to-serve product, available starting February 6 at Italian Centre Shop Cafés.

22 January February 2019 | The Tomato

Continued from page 19

2 c chopped Swiss chard, spinach or kale

juice ¼ lemon (2 T)

kosher salt and freshcracked pepper plain yogurt for serving (optional)

Cook the onion in the oil over medium low heat in a large pot until starting to colour. Add the curry paste and cook for 1 minute. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Add the sweet potato, reduce heat and simmer covered for about 5 minutes. Add the lentils and continue to simmer covered for about 10 minutes until the lentils and sweet potatoes are tender. Add the milk slowly to the hot soup. You could leave the soup chunky, blitz a portion of it or purée all of it for a smooth consistency. Add the greens and stir until wilted, about 1 to 2 minutes (if using kale it might take longer).

Squeeze in the lemon juice and check for seasoning. Serve with yogurt if using.

Serves 4-6.

Québec-style Pea Soup Classic old school ham and pea soup. If you had ham over the hols, this is a thrifty great way to use up leftovers and get the most from the bone.

Otherwise, buy a ham hock.

bone and fat, dice the meat and return to the soup. Heat through. Serve with garlic or cheese toasts if desired.

Serves 6-8.

Turkey Meatball Soup This substantial soup features the pulse soup mixes which are ubiquitous at every farmers market. Recipe courtesy Alberta Pulse Growers.

Meatballs 1 lb

ground turkey

2 T slow cooking oats or barley flakes ½ c

finely chopped onion

2 cloves

garlic, finely minced

½ t

sage

¼ t

kosher salt

½ t

fresh-cracked pepper

Lightly mix the meat, oats, onion, garlic, sage and seasoning. Scoop ½ teaspoon of the mix to form mini-meatballs. Fry one to test the seasoning, adjust if necessary, and fry the rest (about 3 to 5 minutes per batch). This makes about 95 minimeatballs. Set aside.

Soup 1½ c soup mix (lentils, split peas, pot barley) 3 c

water

2 T

canola oil

¾ c

chopped celery

1 leftover ham bone or 1 lb ham hock, trimmed of the skin

2 c

chopped carrot

1 c

chopped rutabaga

½ t

sage

2 T

butter or oil

6 c

stock

2

carrots diced

1

/3 c

tomato paste

2 ribs

celery, diced

1½ t

honey

1 med

yellow onion diced

1 t

vinegar

2 cloves

garlic, minced

¼ t

red pepper flakes

1¾ c

yellow split peas

2

bay leaves

2-3 sprigs thyme ¼ t

kosher salt

¼ t

fresh-cracked black pepper

In a large Dutch oven, melt the butter over medium heat and cook the carrots, celery, onion and garlic, until soft, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes. Stir in the peas, bay leaves, thyme, salt and pepper and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.

Stir in 8 cups water; add ham hock. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until peas are very soft and soup is thick. 1½ to 2 hours. Discard bay leaves and thyme sprigs. Transfer the ham to a plate and let cool until it is easily handled. Discard the

Put the soup mix and water in a large pot. Bring to a boil for 2 to 3 minutes, turn off heat, cover and let stand for 30 to 60 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oil and sauté the onion, then add the garlic, celery, carrots and rutabaga. Cook for 10 minutes, then add to the pulse mixture.

Simmer on low heat for 20 minutes.

Add the cooked meatballs, stock, tomato paste, honey, vinegar, red pepper flakes, pepper and remaining sage. Bring to a boil, then simmer for another 20 minutes. Adjust seasonings and thickness if necessary. Garnish each bowl with yogurt if desired.

Serves 8-10.

Please see “Recipes” on page 24.

Amari Continued from page 11

versatile. I pour shots of Cynar now, not Fernet. It pairs well and supports more prominent flavours. I thank Sam Thornton who was the bartender at North 53 for introducing me to Cynar.

“I also really love Amaro Lucano, very approachable. I skew towards the darker, spice and herb forward, not the citrusy amari for cocktails, though a Paper Plane cocktail could not be made with anything but a citrusy, orangey amaro.

Campari is one of my all-time favourite things in all the world, I have it tattooed on my arm. Complex and delicious.

“We started with Averna (from Sicily) then Montenegro, as we began enjoying more amari. Now we have about 14-16 different amari on the back bar. Every time Rosario comes back from Color de Vino he has something new in tow.

“The most popular are Montenegro and Nonino, on the rocks, and we make cocktails with Amaro Lucano which is from Basilatica. About 20 per cent of our diners order amari at the end of the meal,” says Lisa.

Mary Bailey likes to try a new amaro every chance she gets.

“Amari are a broad set of tools for bartenders to use, as are a lot of the classic herbal liqueurs like Chartreuse,” says James. “I found though, in Italy, bartenders there still regard amari as something you have after dinner for your digestion. The action with cocktails is more a North American thing.”

“My two favourite amari at the moment are Ischia Sapori Rucolino and Vecchio Amaro del Capo,” says Lisa Caputo owner and sommelier, Cibo Bistro.

“Both are from warmer climates, the island of Ischia and Calabria. Unlike the more northern, cool climate amari that have cool notes of pine, spearmint and a robust zing of bitter, I find the southern Italian amari have warmer, spicy notes and sweet molasses flavours with a bitter finish that is subtle and mouth-watering, making you go in for another sip. The Rucolino has fun spicy notes similar to a home-made rootbeer where the Del Capo in my opinion is best served chilled on a hot summer day with a bowl of gelato or a ricotta-filled cannoli. I’m actually Tomato Ad-December-2018.pdf dreaming of the ocean as I think about1it.

Comfort food created from scratch and made with love

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Edmonton

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780.757.7704 kitchenbybrad.ca #101, 10130 - 105 Street

780-757-2426 • cibobistro.com 11244 – 104 Avenue in Oliver Village 2018-12-13

7:52 PM

Chef Levi Biddlecombe C

M

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CM

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Celebrating Five Great Years!

Thank you #YEGfoodies for your continued support!

Red Door, Second Floor.

K

@GlassMonkeyYEG 780.760.2228

www.theglassmonkey.ca

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8534 109 street, 2nd floor (beside upper crust) • 780-297-5757 • whynoteat.ca

The Tomato | January February 2019 23

Recipes Continued from page 22

Red Lentil and Butternut Squash Soup ¼ c

olive oil

4 cloves

garlic, finely chopped

3 med

carrots, finely chopped

2 ribs

celery, finely chopped

1 med

white onion, finely chopped

1 t

ground cumin

½ t

red chili flakes

½ sm butternut squash (about 1 lb.) peeled, seeded, and finely chopped kosher salt and fresh-crack black pepper, to taste 6 c

stock

1 c

split red lentils

Serves 6-8.

Two Rooms Café Lemony Lentil Soup The Two Rooms Café on Whyte Avenue made the most amazing lentil soup. Lemony, not heavy, so delicious. This is the closest I have been able to come to it.

chopped parsley, for garnish

1 t

extra virgin olive oil

smoked paprika, for garnish

1

yellow onion, diced

1½ c

diced carrots

1 t

salt

3 cloves

garlic, minced

1 t

fresh grated ginger

8 c

stock

1 t

turmeric

2 c

green lentils,

zest of ½ lemon

juice of 3 small lemons

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the garlic, carrots, celery, and onion. Cook until slightly caramelized, about 10 minutes.

Stir in cumin, chili flakes, squash, salt, and pepper and cook until the squash is soft, about 15 minutes. Add stock and lentils and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, slightly covered, until lentils are very tender, about 20 minutes. Let the soup cool slightly, then, working in batches, purée soup until smooth.

To serve: Ladle soup into bowls and garnish with parsley and scattering of paprika. Serves 4-6.

Parker’s Split Pea Soup All veg, no ham and easy to make. Adapted from a recipe by the Barefoot Contessa, Ina Garten.

1 c

chopped yellow onions

2 cloves

garlic, minced

1

/8 c

canola oil

½ t

dried oregano

1½ t

kosher salt

1 t

fresh-cracked black pepper

3 to 4 carrots (2 c) medium-diced carrots 3 sm (1 c) medium-diced red boiling potatoes, unpeeled (3 small) 1 lb

dried split green peas

8 c

chicken stock or water

In a 4-quart stockpot on medium heat, saute the onions and garlic with the olive

24 January February 2019 | The Tomato

oil, oregano, salt, and pepper until the onions are translucent, 10 to 15 minutes.

Add the carrots, potatoes, half the peas and the stock. Bring to a boil, then simmer uncovered for 40 minutes. Skim off the foam while cooking. Add the remaining peas and continue to simmer for another 40 minutes, or until all the peas are soft. Stir frequently to keep the solids from burning on the bottom. Taste for salt and pepper. Serve hot.

Heat oil in a large Dutch oven set over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots and salt and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and sauté another minute longer. Add the stock, turmeric, and lentils. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, for 45 minutes. Stir in the lemon zest and juice and simmer another 30 minutes.

Serves 6-8.

Find lots more delicious soup recipes at thetomato.ca.

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The Tomato | January February 2019 25

Kitchen Sink restaurant buzz Cecilia Groblicka and John Brodie have purchased Cavern (10169 104 Street, 780-455-1336, thecavern.ca). Cecilia has worked at the shop for several years.

“Words cannot express the joy I feel about the continuation of Cavern under this next generation leadership,” says Tricia Bell, founder. “Cecilia and John are young, talented and incredibly hard working. They intend to maintain the integrity of Cavern brand, however they will certainly put their mark on it and I trust achieve even greater results.”

XIX Terwillegar (5940 Mullen Way, 780-395-1119, dinenineteen.com) has a terrific new brunch menu with bao bennies and breakfast poutine, from 10am-2pm every Sunday. If earning your breakfast is more your style, there is a special Run & Brunch with the Running Room, Saturday, January 19, with a 5k beginning at 9am, then a breakfast buffet with bottomless mimosas. Tix: $35/p++, call to book.

Cavern (10169 104 Street, 780-4551336, thecavern.ca) is offering a set menu for cheese lovers for Valentines Day, Thursday, February 14. Will you Brie Mine? is $55/p for three courses or $95 for three courses and wine pairings. Call to book.

Bar Bricco (10347 Jasper Avenue, 780424-5588, barbricco.com) is going to start taking reservations, similar to its sister restaurant next door. Uccellino reserves half the room, leaving the other half for walk ins.

“We originally thought if people encountered a line up at Bricco they would go next door and have an aperitivo at Uccellino, but we are finding that people don’t like to stand at the bar, and they are unhappy after they have Ubered or taken a cab downtown and can’t get into Bricco. So, we hope this allays the frustration,” says owner Daniel Costa.

The Local Omnivore folks are opening a pizza joint in the old Parkallen space. The Pink Gorilla Pizzeria (7018 109 Street, 780-660-0060, pinkgorillapizzeria.com)

26 January February 2019 | The Tomato

has green checkerboard floors, a casual vibe and a menu that incorporates many Local Omnivore specialities such as their delicious, house-made corned beef.

Noorish (8440 109 Street, 780-7566880, noorish.ca) has a new look and a new menu created by chef Doreen Prei.

The room is fresh and airy, in de rigueur soft corals and greens, and the menu is a bit more substantial. Many (but not all) of the dishes are vegan and raw, or gluten or soy free. Loved the fried halloumi with roasted vegetables and caper butter. There is small, yet well-chosen wine list and the elixirs and wellness shots are as interesting as ever. Until March, experience the nightly happy hour from 8:30pm until close—$5 wine, beer, bubbles and kombucha and small plates for $8.

Check it out!

Wilfred’s (10429 121 Street, in the Brewery District, 780-757-7009, wilfreds.co) starts off the new year with a beefed-up dinner service.

“We opened Wilfred’s with the idea of an elevated approach to a diner, comfortable, approachable and with good food. But we found that the lighter dinner options weren’t resonating,” said co-owner Shaun Brandt. The new head chef Chael MacDonald has created new dishes that resonated with this diner—a silky chicken pâté on a crispy, fluffy biscuit, no less; a juicy and flavourful (perfect) short bib burger, a 28-day aged steak served with mushrooms and scalloped potatoes, a delish warm potato salad and a reimagined smoked salmon with blini. As well, they’ve added a scrumptious Dutch baby pancake to the breakfast menu—two eggs with a fluffy, crispy-edged pancake, whisper of maple syrup, in a cast iron skillet. Noah Gado and pinch hitter Shaun Hicks round out the kitchen. Happy hour is still 5pm7pm, lots of time to enjoy James Grant’s impeccable cocktails.

January winter breaks: Rge Rd is closed January 7-14; Hardware Grill is closed January 1-3 and January 6, 7; Butternut Tree is closed January 1-10; The Blue Chair, January 1-8.

Characters (10257 105 Street) has closed. Characters was a fixture on Edmonton’s fine dining scene for over 20 years. “Characters was everything I would want in a restaurant, nice food, nice wine list, parking lot,” says chef owner Shonn Oborowsky. Shonn does plan to cook only for his family from now on. “I’ve been cooking for 30 years.

That’s enough,” he says. The Bearhill Brewery will be opening a brew pub in the location later this year.

A new pub has opened in the Daravara space across 124 Street from Meuwly’s.

Three Vikings (10713 124 Street, 780249-6302, threevikings.ca) offers a solid pub atmosphere. Yes, there is smørrebrød (delicious open-faced sandwiches) among the burgers, Shepherd’s pie and other pub fare on the menu along with frikadeller (Danish meatballs). I promise you, they are better than Ikea’s, which, of course, are Swedish.

Culina Muttart (9626 96A Street, 780-466-1181, culinafamily.com) offers several pop ups which highlight local purveyors. January16 is the Ukrainian New Years buffet, featuring Baba’s Own Ukrainian Food and the Medicine Hat Brewing Company. On January 23 it’s National Pie Day, featuring Meat Street Pies, Duchess Bake Shop and Hansen Distillery. On Feb 13 and 14 is the Hungry for Love pop up featuring a romantic fondue with Janice Beaton Fine Cheese and Jacek Chocolate Couture. The pop ups include a feature cocktail or glass of wine, $55. Reservations are a must, book at culinafamily.com, all events are 18+.

The Blue Chair Café (9624 76 Avenue, 780-989-2861, bluechair.ca) moves to winter hours in January, from 7am-7pm, Tuesday-Thursday; Friday and Saturday night with live music until late; 9am2:30pm brunch on the weekends and closed Sunday night and Mondays. The Blue Chair’s breakfast is fantastic, try the Old Country Gritz, the Ritchie Scramble, or the Blueberry Yogurt Pancakes.

Enjoy Valentine’s Day at the Butternut Tree (9707 110 Street (Ledgeview Building, 780-760-2271,

thebutternuttree.ca) with a choice between the à la carte menu and a special tasting menu on February 14, 15 and 16.

Madison’s Grill (10053 Jasper Avenue,780-401-2222, unionbankinn. com) consistently voted Most Romantic, is offering a special six-course dinner February 14, 15 and 16, $218/couple book online at unionbankinn.com. And, if that goes well consider the Grill for your wedding venue, it can fit up to 75 people.

wine tastings happenings and events Get set for the 2019 Tour d’Alsace at The Marc (9940 106 Street, 780-4292828, themarc.ca) from January 11-19 with a table d’hôte menu, (multi-choice) $57/p++.

During that week, the Sunday Supper Club on January 13, will have an Alsation theme, many courses paired with some glorious Alsation wines and beers, $123/p all in. No word yet on the final menu but there will be choucroute, foie, Riesling and tarte flambée. February’s Sunday Supper club on the 10th, will see Caroline Decoster, of Fleur Cardinale, Saint-Emilion and Francois Xavier Maroteaux of Château Branaire-Ducru, Saint-Julien sharing lovely Bordeaux. Call the Marc to book.

Enjoy the Best Wines of 2018 Dinner with Vines Wine Merchants, at XIX Terwillegar, Monday, January 28 (5940 Mullen Way, 780-395-1119) or at XIX St Albert (150 Bellerose Drive, St. Albert, 780-569-1819) Tix: $125 all in, call to book.

Taste five delicious beer-friendly courses by chef Peter Skwaruk with iconic Belgian beers at the Best of Belgium Beer Dinner, at Craft Beer Market (10013 101A Avenue, 780424-2337, craftbeermarket.ca), 6pm, Wednesday, January 30. Tix: $60 all in, email RiceHowardEvents@ CRAFTBeerMarket.ca to book.

what’s new and notable What’s the best thing you ate or drank last year? Be sure to nominate your favourite dish or libation for the TomatoTop 100. Nominations start January 7 and end February 7. Visit thetomato.ca for a nomination form; email hello@thetomato.ca or talk to us on facebook.com/thetomatofooddrink.

Sample and learn Everything IPA, from the original British IPA to the newest, haziest, brutiest IPA, at Sherbrooke Liquor (1819 St Albert Trail, 780-4554556, sherbrookeliquor.com), Thursday, January 24, 7pm. Tix: $20.

Love cats? Love brunch? The Edmonton Humane Society (13620 163 Street, 780-471-1774, edmontonhumanesociety.com) is having a Cat Yoga Class with Brunch, Saturday, February 2, 10:30am. Expect yoga, meditation and brunch, $30.

Do you make a great tourtière? Deep Freeze: A Byzantine Winter Festival wants to know. Sunday, January 13 is Francophone Cultural Day, and the Deep Freeze Tourtière Baking Contest.

Deadline to enter is January 10, visit deepfreezefest.ca/tourtiere to enter.

Discover Rioja’s remarkable wines at Winefest, February 15 and 16, at the Edmonton (Shaw) Conference Centre.

Early Bird tix until Friday, January 11, winefestedmonton.tix123.com.

at the cooking schools Discover your inner baba at Kitchen

by Brad’s Ukrainian Cooking Class, Saturday January 5, and Saturday, January 19. Learn to make all the good stuff—pyrohy, nalysnyky, nachynka, Ukrainian gravy and cabbage rolls. Tix: $145/+, 12:30pm start, kitchenbybrad. ca to book.

Registration opens in February for NAIT’s legendary Boot Camps held during the summer: Pastry Boot Camp is July 8-12 or July 15-19; Culinary Boot Camp is July 9-12 or July 16-19; Cured Meats, Cheeses and Pickles Boot Camp is July 9-12, 2019 and

the Gourmet Boot Camp is from July 16-19. NAIT also holds a raft of other cooking classes from five general kitchen skills classes, to baking, pizza, vegan and vegetarian and international cooking.

Visit nait.ca for more information and to register.

The Atco Blue Flame Kitchen (10035105 Street), has several fun classes in the next two months, especially for kids.

Book at atcoblueflamekitchen.com.

Thursday night classes start at 6pm and are $65. Comfort Food Classics Made Healthy, January 10; Make Your Own Pasta, January 17; Diverse Delicious Dumplings, January 31; Time for Thai, February 21. Tapas Night is 6pm, Thursday, January 31 or Thursday, February 15, $100. Kids Cooking Classes: Pizza Soup and Sour Cream Biscuits, Saturday, January 19, 9:30am; Kid’s Valentine’s Day Dinner class is 9am Friday, February 1 or Tuesday, February 5 and PD Day: Asian Appetizers is 9am, Friday, February 28, $60.

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Learn to make The Perfect Pie, January 20, at The Ruby Apron (780-9060509, therubyapron.ca) or, there may be a few spots left in the Advanced Sourdough Workshop, February 5, or the Alberta Table, February 8.

This is the go-to place to learn about bread making and just about any other cooking skill. Check the website for the entire schedule and the latest info and get cooking!

Product news Cavern (10169 104 Street, 780-4551336, thecavern.ca) is introducing beer and cheese pairings. Enjoy in house or join them for a tipsy Sunday afternoon at a Cavern Beer & Cheese School.

Give the gift of eating well with bespoke Cavern Valentine Gift Boxes, $60 and up. Call 780-455-1336.

FanFan’s (10330 80 Avenue, 587-5249899) Galette des Rois are now available in three sizes: for four ($17), six, ($23)

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The Tomato | January February 2019 27

Kitchen Sink Continued from previous page

and eight people, ($29). The French cake that celebrates the Epiphany has a feve (favour) hidden within. The celebratory cake comes in two flavours, apple and frangipane.

We have become fans of the high-quality cookies made by Täfeli Gourmet Cookies (5647 Riverbend Road, 587521-7841, tafelicookies.com) excellent renditions of classic tea, gingerbread and Linzer cookies for example. Their main business is corporate gifts (who wouldn’t love to receive a dozen cookies?) but they do have cookies available there. Check out their web site for gift giving ideas and the menu, tafelicookies.com.

In more cookie news, Bloom Cookie Co, the vegan, egg and dairy-free cookie maker, has moved into a storefront right next to Prairie Noodle on 124 Street.

Find them at 10350 124 Street, 780-4290437, bloomcookieco.ca.

28 January February 2019 | The Tomato

Meuwly’s (10706 124 Street, 587-7863560, meuwlys.com) offers their famous Secret Meat Club Superbowl Party Snack Packs. You can expect several salty, meaty, savoury snacks made from quality local ingredients. Pre-order at the store or at meuwlys.com for pickup February 2 and 3, $60/pack. For Valentine’s Day, enjoy a custom charcuterie platter, a perfect meal for two, with a delicious selection of cheeses and house-made preserves to complement the meats.

Prices range from $50-$70. Call 587786-3560 to order by February 5.

Bella Casa (9646 142 Street, 780-4374190, bellacasadcl.com) has launched a brand new website with even more products online. It’s ideal for browsing from your desktop to send a gift or to decide on new things for the kitchen.

Check it out!

Send new and/or interesting food and drink related news for Kitchen Sink to hello@thetomato.ca.

Keeping Warm Continued from page 7.

The menus reflect this with a seasonal approach.

Back to the cocktails. Beaudean has a certain predilection to lighting things on fire for his cocktails, which is always fun. The Walk Among the Alpines has house-made rosemary lemongrass syrup and egg white, shaken with Banff’s Park Alpine Gin with Chartreuse, ginger liqueur, vermouth and fresh lemon juice.

The end result, which came adorned with a fresh cedar branch, which he it on fire at the last minute, tasted as if you were drinking the mountains. Beautiful.

There was a cucumber gimlet; a Campfire Manhattan made with

Montenegro Amaro, Park Glacier Rye and Appleton rum; a mezcal-based cocktail with Scotch and bitters.

Another bravura drink involving fire, was the S’mores Old Fashioned, with honey smoked cinnamon syrup, Highland Park Scotch and Maker’s Mark.

I’ve left the best for last. Outside, close to the pond, is a firepit, with Adirondack chairs and blankets and a s’mores station. Have a warm drink, burn some marshmallows, sit back, gaze at the stars, and revel in the mountain quiet.

Mary Bailey is the editor of The Tomato Food & Drink.

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The Tomato | January February 2019 29

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Valentine’s Day fruits Hawaiian dish Prattle away Pecan or macadamia Bubbly drink for a Valentine’s Day date Pedicure subject Unagi at a sushi bar Coffee based beverage, ice cream topped with espresso “Betty Davis ___” British “Thanks” Printer paper size, abbr.

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Metro Cinema is a community-based non-profit society devoted to the exhibition and promotion of Canadian, international, and independent film and video.

Tomato Crossword

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Nourishing Entertainment!

What’s the best thing you ate last year?

It could be: • a restaurant dish • a farmers’ market specialty • a product from your favourite local farmer • a snack food • a condiment

Whatever makes your mouth hum!

Enter January 7 - February 15

Tell us about your favourite thing to eat or drink We’ll add it to our list of the 100 best things to eat in Edmonton

Enter January 7 – February 7. Here’s how: • Visit thetomato.ca and click on 100 best things to eat • Send us a message: facebook.com/thetomatofooddrink @tomatofooddrink #TomatoTop100 Tag your photo: #tomatofooddrink • Email us: hello@thetomato.ca • Mail us a letter: 9833 84 Avenue, Edmonton, T6E 2G1 The top 100 best things to eat and drink will be featured in the March April issue of The Tomato food & drink. *For the purposes of this competition, Edmonton includes Sherwood Park, St. Albert and surrounding communities — we’ll drive for food!

Tomato guy illustration created exclusively for The Tomato by Darcy Muenchrath, www.darcymuenchrath.com.

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At Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse, you lead the service.

Endlessly indulge on an abundant spread of hot and cold accompaniments to our perfectly prepared meats fresh off our flame burning grills. Found a favourite?

Simply ask any of our Gaúchos for your favourite cut, anytime.

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Calgary, Downtown

9929 109 Street NW

9626 Ellerslie Road SW

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(780) 249-2000

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