Take a bite of your city | July August 2018 | thetomato.ca
Summer Drinks The Tomato Kitchen Design Awards
Contents Editor Mary Bailey marybee@telus.net
Features
Publisher BGP Publishing
Copy Editor Shauna Faragini
What do we want from a cockail in the summer?
Summer Intern Kristina Pappas
Contributing Writers Will Bailey Vivian Zenari
10 The Tomato Kitchen Design Awards The 2018 winners
Illustration/Photography Steven Babish Gerry Rasmussen
6 Sumertime and the Drinking is Easy
16 One Potato Two So many ways to love early season potatoes | Mary Bailey
Design and Prepress
20 The Summertime Showdown Iced tea vs lemonade | Vivian Zenari
Bossanova Communications Inc.
WebMeister
Departments
Gunnar Blodgett, COPA Jurist
Printer
5 Dish Gastronomic happenings around town
Distribution Greenline Distribution For editorial inquiries, information, letters, suggestions or ideas, contact The Tomato at 780.431.1802 or email marybee@telus.net. For advertising information call 780.431.1802.
The Tomato is published six times per year: January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780.431.1802
18 Beer Guy Not big on beer? Let’s talk about it | Will Bailey
22 Drinks Fridge door wines | Mary Bailey
24 The Proust Culinary Questionnaire Andrew Fung, chef/proprietor XIX
26 Wine Maven Mary Bailey
28 Kitchen Sink What’s new and notable
30 The Crossword Myles Mellor
Subscriptions are available for $25 per year. thetomato.ca On the cover: Three Boars summertime cocktail, the Bette Midler. Three Boars photo.
Celebrating Edmonton’s
20 YEARS
Food Culture Since 1996 The Tomato | July August 2018 3
Pranzo al fresco. (PRAN-zo al FRESS-coh)
Explore the art of dining outdoors. Gather family and friends and make some memories. Fresco means ‘fresh’, which is how we approach summer at our shops – with an abundance of delicious, seasonal fruits and vegetables.
Perfect for your backyard barbecue.
Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café. EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End CALGARY Willow Park
italiancentre.ca
Local Seasonal Organic Sustainable •
•
•
Dish
gastronomic happenings around town fumaca means smoke in portuguese
damn good food The menu is ready, the pickles made, the photography is hung. SC, Shane Chartrand’s new restaurant in the River Cree Resort is now open. And, it’s worth walking through the smoky casino to get to. The fried chicken is amazing— flavourful, moist, not greasy, served with a hot and tangy green chile sauce and fried matchstick potatoes. The charry bannock flatbreads make a terrific starter; there is a savoury noodle bowl and a really good steak. Expect some fun too—mussel ceviche in cans, drinks in bags, plateware by Calgary’s Medium Rare Chef Apparel. There is a private room for dinners or receptions and chef Chartrand plans to create indigenous-inspired chef ’s table dinners. Check it out!
we all scream for ice cream Both FanFan Pâtisserie (10330 80 Avenue) and Arno’s Fine French Pastry (10038 116 Street) are offering house-made gelati, sorbet and ice cream to stay or go. And, on Friday, July 13, from 6pm-8pm, FanFan is offering scoops for a buck.
the best of alberta Food Artisans of Alberta by Karen Anderson and Matilde Sanchez-Turri, Touchwood Editions, 352 pages, $25. Learn the stories of the farmers, ranchers, growers, cheesemakers, brewers and purveyors who are creating our food scene today. Karen and Mathilde have covered the province in this new book, including over 200 producers, farmers markets and watering holes. It’s been almost 20 years since The Food Lover’s Trail Guide to Alberta (Vols. 1 & 2) by Mary Bailey and Judy Schultz. Food Artisans of Alberta is a terrific update on our growing culinary development.
Photo okudart.es/showcase
There is a new Brazilian steakhouse in town. Fumaca (pronounced fumassa) overlooks the river valley on Saskatchewan Drive (where there was an Indian resto for several years). All vestiges of that are gone, with a brand-new kitchen and dining room, including a private room for 30. Anup Kundu and Lalit Kumar Singh are partners in Fumaca, with experience gained in the kitchens at Pampa. Expect the whole delicious Brazilian shebang for lunch and dinner seven days a week as well as Sunday brunch. Fumaca, 10143 Saskatchewan Drive, 780-249-8995, fumacasteakhouse.com.
beyond graffiti: imagine okuda Street art is huge, all over the world. And Michael Maxxis, a partner in the Merchant Hospitality Group and a filmmaker who is crazy about art, wants to put a six-storey mural on the side of the building which houses the Holy Roller, just off Whyte Avenue. He has contracted Okuda San Miguel, an artist based in Madrid and the big name in street art, to do it. “Art reminds us that anything is possible and to follow our dreams,” says Michael Maxxis. Visit okudayeg.com to help bring this big idea to fruition.
five tomatoes, six tomatoes, seven tomatoes, more The Tomato Extravaganza is back at the Enjoy Centre, September 3, 11am-4pm, tasting competitions, tomato talks and demos, raffle prizes and activities for the young ‘uns. The Extravaganza won Outstanding StartUp Event at the Edmonton Event awards in 2017, presented by the Edmonton Horticultural Society, $5/p, kids under 11 free.
the olive branch brings home greek flavours Try out these new products by Olive Branch. Yes, you could make your own, but how terrific to have a few jars of these in the pantry for impromptu entertaining. What we love is the short ingredient list, just like you would make in your own kitchen, if your kitchen was on Crete or in the Messenia region of Greece. Three dressings, Orange Balsamic (enjoy with blue cheese and walnuts or as a glaze for salmon), Fig Balsamic (with ham, soft cheeses, mixed greens) and the Greek Dressing made with a unique wild herb vinegar from the Agia Triada Monastery on Crete. Two tapenades, Green Olive with goats’ cheese, rosemary and a hint of chili to keep things interesting; the Kalamata Olive with fig and mint (this would be amazing in a sandwich) and the Sweet Olive Relish with fig and almond (have this on a cheese board). At the Italian Centre West End and other fine food shops. From top: Okuda San Miguel’s mural Cat Witch, Punto Urban Art Museum. Salem, Massachusetts; chef Shane Chartrand in the kitchen at SC; FanFan’s house-made sorbet; Karen Anderson and Matilde Sanchez-Turri’s comprehensive tome; Olive Branch Orange Balsamic Dressing $9, Green Olive Tapenade and Sweet Olive Fig and Almond Relish, $8.
The Tomato | July August 2018 5
Summertime
& the drinking is easy
Oaxacan On Sunshine, El Cortez
What do we want from a cocktail in the summer? Something citrusy and refreshing. Something that won’t knock us flat in the heat. Something that makes us think of sunny days, tropical breezes and sandy beaches. We asked several of the city’s best barkeeps for their riff on the summer theme. BAR CLEMENTINE
BAR BRICCO
Soif
Negroni
“This is a new punch we’ve got for the patio launch. It will be served under cork, in a bottle that we are engraving with our Clementine logo. This recipe is for a single serving; Clementine multiplies by five for the actual punch.” –Evan Watson, Bar Clementine.
In our opinion, Bar Bricco’s Negroni is the best in town. Or, maybe it’s just that we love to sit at the Bricco bar enjoying Negronis? Either way, this is how they spin the classic.
Birichino Vin Gris
1 oz
Aperol
0.5 oz
ruby grapefruit juice
0.5 oz
cucumber water
0.25 oz cinnamon syrup*
* To make the cinnamon syrup, lightly toast the cinnamon sticks in a saucepan over medium heat. Add 1 cup of water, and 1 cup of sugar. Stir to incorporate, bottle, and strain the cinnamon after 24 hours.
6 July August 2018 | The Tomato
Tanqueray
1 oz
Cocchi Vermouth
1 oz
Campari
Add the gin, vermouth and Campari in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Stir roughly 30 times. Strain into a tumbler filled with ice. Garnish with an orange peel.
All photos supplied by establishments except where noted.
Negroni, Bar Bricco
Photo: Steven Babish
4 oz
1 oz
The Incredibly Deadly Viper, Wishbone
Elevate Your Palate
WISHBONE
WILFRED’S
The Incredibly Deadly Viper
The Weekend Getaway
THE SHOPS AT BOUDREAU | ST. ALBERT, ALBERTA
This is a refreshing tropical Daiquiri variation, and certainly appropriate to the season.” –James Grant, Wilfred’s.
#109 150 BELLEROSE DR. | HICKSFINEWINES.COM | 780-569-5000
“A fruit-forward drink with a citrus kick and a lovely hint of habanero.” –Brayden Kozak, Wishbone. 1.5 oz
Espolon Reposado
.75 oz
Aperol
.25 oz
Yellow Chartreuse
.75 oz
lime juice
¼ piece
habanero
Shake with ice and fine strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with a lime twist.
1.5 oz Havana Club 3 Year white rum 0.5 oz Giffard Banane de Brésil liqueur 0.25 oz coconut-infused simple syrup (recipe follows) 1 oz fresh lime juice 2 dashes Bittermen’s Elemakule Tiki Bitters
Combine all the ingredients with ice in a cocktail shaker. Shake until chilled. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a lime wheel.
Coconut-infused Simple Syrup 500 g
white sugar
500 g
water
50 g
toasted coconut flakes
Combine sugar and water over heat. Bring to a boil, then remove from heat. Transfer to a heat-resistant container and add the coconut. Seal, shake, then steep for 2 hours. Strain out the coconut. Syrup will keep in the fridge for 2 weeks.
THREE BOARS
The Bette Midler The Weekend Getaway, Wilfred’s
“A nice floral twist on a Negroni by Jade Krull.” –Brayden Kozak, Three Boars. .75 oz
Tanqueray Rangpur
.75 oz
Cocchi Rosa
.75 oz
Bitter Bianco
.25 oz
rose syrup
Stir on ice and strain into rocks glass. Garnish with a lemon twist. Please see “Summertime” on next page
The Tomato | July August 2018 7
Summertime Continued from previous page
DRUNKEN OX AT NIGHT, SOBER CAT IN THE MORNING (DOSC)
SPEAK TIKI In a shaker tin, combine all the ingredients, except for the sparkling wine, with one cube of ice. Shake. Add Champagne to the tin and pour over ice into a Collins glass. Garnish with fresh mint and lime.
Passion Fruit Shrub
Rose & Leaf “I looked for unique flavour pairings that would tie into the history of the Metals Building. There are beautiful rose and leaf inlays on the sides of our building that represent Alberta's provincial flower and Canada's maple leaf. The watermelon and rose water, along with the dry tea notes of Beefeater 24 which are elevated by the Absinthe, work really well to showcase the diversity of this drink.” –Brandon Baker, Drunken Ox at Night, Sober Cat in the Morning. 2 oz
Beefeater 24
0.25 oz
lychee syrup (recipe follows)
1 oz
watermelon juice
0.75 oz
fresh lemon juice
2 dashes Absinthe 1 Japanese shiso leaf, a mist of rose water
“A shrub is an old-fashioned method of preserving fruits, vegetables and herbs with sugar and vinegar. The great thing about this crisp, acidic and refreshing preserve is that you can use it for a variety of drinks. Whether you drink it straight, top it with soda water, or mix it with booze; it makes for a great summer cooler.” –Ryan Sumner, El Cortez. 8 oz
Boiron Passion Fruit Purée
10 oz
white sugar
equal parts champagne vinegar
Combine the puree and white sugar in a saucepan. Simmer while stirring until the sugar is fully dissolved. Measure out the mixture and add an equal amount of champagne vinegar. Whisk until thoroughly mixed.
Speak Tiki is a cocktail pop-up and catering company dedicated to promoting tiki cocktail culture. Bartenders Natasha Trowsdale (Bar Clementine and LittleHK), Nic MacDonald (Woodwork), André Bober (bar manager Baijiu and LittleHK), and Warren Johnston (not a bartender, just drinks like one) share a passion for tiki. “Tiki drinks are very popular amongst bartenders,” says Warren Johnston. “We wanted a chance to showcase them with the same emphasis on quality and ingredients as you’d see in any of the great bars in our city.”
The Amazon “Try this delectable concoction at Bar Clementine- it’s on their new menu and will be just the thing to convince you to pick up that bottle of Cachaça for your home bar.” –Warren Johnston.
.75 oz
Punt e Mes
3 dashes DeGroff Pimento Bitters
Add the ingredients to a mixing glass and stir with ice.
1 oz
fresh lime
2 oz avocado sweetened coconut milk 1 sprig
mint
1 oz passion fruit shrub (recipe follows) .5 oz lime juice Aquavit
8 July August 2018 | The Tomato
Amaro Meletti
passionfruit juice
Mezcal Espadin
The Amazon, Speak Tiki
Appleton 12
.75 oz
St. Germain
Oaxacan On Sunshine
Champagne
.5 oz
.75 oz
EL CORTEZ
1.5 oz
El Dorado 15
.5 oz
A substitute for the lychee syrup is a can of peeled lychees in syrup. Separate the lychees and the syrup through a strainer. Reserve the lychees for yummy snacks or other uses.
2 dashes Angostura bitters
1 oz
To make the lychee syrup, take a 2:1:1 ratio of sugar, water and peeled and chopped lychees, by weight. Place the sugar and water into a saucepan over medium-high heat. Do not boil. Once the sugar has dissolved remove from heat and add the lychees. Let sit for 20 minutes to infuse, then strain out the fruit. Allow to cool completely. Bottle and refrigerate. The syrup should last for 2 weeks in the fridge.
.25 oz
“Speak Tiki likes to embrace the nontraditional. While some purists might say this drink strays far from typical tiki concoctions, it is the perfect thing to sip on an accidental beach when you don’t have a shaker on deck. If you need a quick fix, go visit Trader Nic at Woodwork and ask him to stir one up for you!” –Warren Johnston.
Leblon Cachaça
Lychee Syrup
1 oz
East Bank
1.5 oz
Add ingredients to shaker tin and shake with ice until chilled.
Place all the ingredients, except garnishes, in a shaker tin filled with ice. Shake for ten seconds and fine strain into a rocks glass containing a large ice cube. Add the shiso leaf and mist with rose water.
Strain over crushed ice. Serve with a metal straw and garnish with a fresh mint sprig.
East Bank, Speak Tiki
lime zest
Strain. Express lime oil over the drink prior to garnishing with the lime zest.
G&T SEASON A long cool gin and tonic, its fragrant herbaceous notes, merging with the backyard aromas of fresh-cut grass, defines summer. My current splash, with a good squeeze of lime (or lemon to mix it up) is Gilpin’s Extra Dry with Q Tonic or Strathcona Spirits Seaberry Gin with East Imperial Tonic. I like the collision of the crisp juniper, citrusy notes with the direct quinine hit of these tonics. And, these tonics are low in sugar, coming in at about 40 calories. We asked several other gin lovers what makes a gin and tonic sing. “At the Juniper, we make our own tonic syrup for our gin and tonic, and we like to source local or Canadian gins. My fave is Stump Coastal Forest Gin from Vancouver Island, so yummy. It reminds me of the West Coast Trail with its woodsy and earthy tones that are reminiscent of wet fir trees. There are hints of lavender and coriander too!” Peggy Adams, Juniper Café and Bistro “I’m a fan of Edinburgh Small Batch Gin with the Porter’s Grapefruit Tonic.” Leanne Smoliak “I like Bombay Sapphire Gin with soda, not tonic, with a lime wedge. I don’t like the sweetness of the tonic. Doug’s favourite is the pre-mixed Parlour Gin and Tonic from Eau Claire.” Marcia J Hamm, Hick’s Fine Wines “The Botanist on ice with Perrier and a splash of Fever-Tree Tonic and slice of lemon,” Alison Phillips, Aligra Wine & Spirits “One of my all-time favourites is Uncle Val’s Botanical Gin from California. I’m also fond of Noteworthy from Vancouver and have my eye on an Italian gin called Imea.” Michelle Tobias “Boodles London Dry Gin with club soda, Wildlife Tonic Syrup and a splash of Upson’s Classic Lemonade Cordial over crushed ice, garnished with a slice of dehydrated lemon. Or, Hayman’s Old Tom Gin with East Imperial Tonic, a fresh mango slice and peppercorns over crushed ice.” Juanita Roos, Color de Vino. Mary Bailey, DipWSET, enjoys gin and tonics from the May 24 weekend to Labour Day. That’s it.
The Tomato | July August 2018 9
The Tomato Food & Drink
TKDA Kitchen Design Awa The Tomato Food and Drink Kitchen Design Awards
The Judges Rebecca Gagne Rebecca Gagne, co-owner of Cucina Bella, a kitchen design shop in Edmonton’s west end, has been designing kitchens since 1996. She is a cabinet nerd at heart and lover of all things kitchen. As well, she is a CKD (Certified Kitchen Designer, National Kitchen and Bath Association) and instructs the Metro Continuing Education Kitchen Planning Course, cucinabella.ca.
Darrell Halliwell Darrell Halliwell is an architect and managing principal for DIALOG’s Edmonton Studio. He is a member of the firm’s leadership team, responsible for strategic direction and management of the firm across Canada, dialogdesign.ca.
George Ilagan George Ilagan, a partner at Hastings Ilagan Design, is an architect by training and passionate about design. George has designed a myriad of kitchens, ranging from the simple to the sublime, hastingsilagan.ca.
Michele Roach Michele Roach, principal and coowner of Wolski Design Group—one of Edmonton’s top interior design firms—is a minimalist-design pioneer, animal print enthusiast and self-proclaimed creative problem solver with a soft spot for logistical nightmares, wolskidesign.com All kitchen photos supplied by entrants.
10 July August 2018 | The Tomato
Four kitchens made the finals of theTomato Kitchen Design Awards: an intelligent and well-crafted DIY kitchen, one beautiful new build and two renovations. The judges were unanimous in choosing the renovated kitchens, but could not select a definite first or second, so, we are calling them both winners in that category. Feast your eyes!
Best DIY Howard Pruden, Homeowner “The 20-year-old kitchen was in need of a renovation, one that would provide more light and an efficient layout. We were tired of the white cabinets and wanted a warm and inviting visual for arriving guests, as the kitchen is located at the front of the house; we chose the quarter sawn black walnut. We did all the work ourselves, from stripping out everything to the studs, to building the cabinets, tiling, installing new windows and doors, etc. We hired someone to install the quartz countertop. The kitchen is 120 square feet. The total cost, including appliances, was approximately $35K.”
The Tomato Food & Drink
Kitchen Design Awa
What the judges said:
“They did a nice job for a DIY! I like the use of the solid textured backsplash tile and the simple counter tops with the woodgrain in the cabinetry and the flooring. The use of the handles on the base cabinets and nothing on the upper cabinets is a nice look and the cabinetry looks great with the flooring section.”
“The layout is not ideal, but I applaud the owners for making good use of the difficult space. I like the black walnut cabinets and the decision to make the cabinets go right up to the ceiling.”
Please see ”TKDA” on page 12
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The Tomato | July August 2018 11
TKDA Continued from page 10
Best New Build Kate Frandsen, Towne and Countree Kitchens “The inspiration for this original design began with a mix of geometric shapes, sleek European styles and the warmth of wood contrasted with the modern coolness of metal. A busy family needs an efficient and functional space, so a key design element was to create an easy-to-use kitchen with ample storage, plentiful seating and a private area for homework, as well as preserving the
12 July August 2018 | The Tomato
household command centre. The space is warm and inviting. With its clean lines, integrated handles and a hidden hood, this kitchen is bringing sexy back!”
What the judges said: “I find the layout of this kitchen really functional; there is a good separation of the preparation and dining/activity spaces. The wood accent on the graphitecoloured cabinetry is quite handsome and the use of the white stone countertops makes the look of this kitchen sleekly modern.” “I like the dark grey and woodgrain mix, but I would have loved to see a touch more of the woodgrain. I like the interesting island detail, but I’m not a fan of the continuous aluminum pulls. The appliances are great!”
Best Renovation Jamie Davis, Quadrant Construction Ltd. “Our client was looking to modernize their mid-century home while honouring the era in which it was made. Modernization included energy efficient decisions such as windows, LED lighting and new insulation. With the envelope sealed, the interior fun began with floor to ceiling teak cupboards, Caesarstone countertops and backsplash and a stone tile floor. A dream cabinet wall includes a suite of Miele appliances; a built-in coffee machine and fridge with drawers, convection and steam ovens, a dishwasher and cooktop. Other features of the renovation include a bar with a gorgeous yellow tile backsplash, a magnetic message wall (for the busy family) and a beautiful dinette and seating area with a fireplace. This space has been transformed to the 21st century, yet feels as though you are still living in a simpler era.”
What the judges said: “The extra functional areas, like the bar, the drop zone coming into the kitchen and the great narrow little bookshelf, are all very thoughtful and there is a nice use of visual textures. The appliances are dreamy!” “This is a masterful and functional layout for a limited space. The teak cabinets to the ceiling provide a very luxurious modern feel.”
www.themarc.ca
@themarcedmonton
Please see ”TKDA” on following page
The Tomato | July August 2018 13
TKDA Continued from previous page
Best Renovation Brenda Brix, AMR Interior Design “An oak and brass kitchen with a sunshine ceiling was stripped down to the essentials to make every detail count. The now bright and playful open kitchen is the family gathering place with a wall of energy efficient black steel appliances (including a speed oven to replace a microwave and second wall oven), recycle center and an expanse of windows overlooking the large backyard. LED recessed and pendant lighting brings light to the expansive work surface and enhances the well-used pottery collection on the open shelving. Custom painted cabinets create a seamless feel with quartz waterfall edge counters and a low backsplash. A hickory surround frames the marble mosaic backsplash and showcases a knife collection. The adjacent sunken living room was levelled out to create a large dining room with a continuous wide plank hardwood running throughout. The hickory surround was repeated on a new fireplace to create the entertainer’s dream space complete with a hidden bar.”
What the judges said: “The soft colouration of the cabinetry is really charming and is a great material selection for such a small space. The blonde wood accents are very attractive.” “I love the soft use of colour, the light woodgrain accents and the hardware looks like it matches the graphite finish of the fridge. The tile is beautiful; I appreciate the geometric pattern and its use around the cooktop only. The thoughtfulness around the ceiling beam and lining up the shelving with the outside edge works well.”
14 July August 2018 | The Tomato
780-705-4928 12539-102 AVENUE EDMONTON, AB
SAMPLING WINE EVERY SATURDAY (780) 439-9069 | colordevino.ca | 9606 82 Ave Edmonton
IS ON THE AIR! A podcast about food and drink recorded in Edmonton and hosted by Mary and Amanda.
soundcloud.com The Tomato | July August 2018 15
ONE POTATO TWO
MARY BAILEY In 2004, I went to Carberry, Manitoba for the 100th anniversary of Bailey Farms. Along with meeting far-flung relatives I didn’t know I had, there were speeches, hugs and pies made by the church auxiliary. Yes, there were as good as you would expect a Prairie pie to be in the middle of the summer, made by ladies who have been practising the art of pie for decades. In other words, incomparable. My cousin made a gift of four hefty, just-picked Russet Burbank potatoes. Fragrant, covered in fine sandy loam, a treasure. I roasted them the day I got home. The thing is, potatoes really do taste the best right after they have been dug out of the ground. Maybe that’s why the arrival of new potatoes in the markets is such a big deal. New potatoes, called so because they have not had time to grow a proper skin, are thinskinned (no need to peel), high in moisture and waxy-textured with a mild flavour. They are ideal for summer foods such as potato salads and roasting on the grill. They feature in summer dishes all over the world. What would a Niçoise salad be without new potatoes? Or the East Coast shore dinner of lobster, clams, corn and new potatoes? I asked Jenny Berkenbosch from Sundog Farms about what potatoes they grow. “We
Leanne’s Potato Salad
1 T ½ t
“This is a rudimentary recipe for my oldfashioned chunky potato salad.” –Leanne Smoliak 1.5 lb bag Little Potato Company Dynamic Duo potatoes, cut each potato into halves or thirds depending on size. 1 lg
carrot, medium dice
6 hardboiled eggs – cut in quarters 2 stalks
celery, small dice
2
pickles, fine dice
3 green onions, fine diagonal slice ½ c
mayonnaise
splash of pickle juice (about 2-3 T)
16 July August 2018 | The Tomato
Brassica grainy mustard kosher salt
lots of fresh-cracked black pepper 1 T
chopped fresh dill
Simmer potatoes until they are tender (about 8-10 minutes). Toss in the carrot at about the four-minute mark. (You want the carrot to still be firm but not hard.) Once cooked, chill potatoes for at least 30 minutes. In a small bowl add the mayo, pickles, pickle juice, mustard, salt and pepper, fresh dill and mix. At this point, you can add anything extra you want – fine diced red pepper, additional herbs, paprika, etc. In a big bowl mix the cooked potatoes, carrot, eggs, celery and green onion. Add
choose our potato varieties for taste and some, also, for their ability to store well in our cooler over the winter,” says Jenny. “We grow four varieties, including purple and yellow potatoes and have a trial plot with nine or ten varieties. We always grow a waxy potato and fluffier potatoes too. I prefer later potatoes for their flavour and tenderness, but my favourite way to eat a new potato is with lots of butter and herbs. “We really like the Cecille, which is a fingerling potato, also called red banana. These are later potatoes, coming into the stand around mid-August. The flavour is spectacular,” says Jenny. I talked to Thea Bakker, whose family has been growing seed potatoes since 1988 near Stony Plain. Her son, Phil, started a company called Earth Apples. You may have seen their colourful stands at the Italian Centre shops in June chock full of boxes of several varieties of seed potatoes for home gardens, in manageable quantities. They make it very easy—each box identifies the variety, gives its characteristics (waxy, floury, early, late, storable or not) how to grow and how to cook. Genius! I planted Jazzy, a yellow fingerling. Thea says they have a huge set. Fingers crossed, I’ll have potatoes, enough for me and the neighbours, come August.
the dressing to the potato mixture and toss lightly so as not to crush the potatoes or eggs. If the mixture is too dry, add some additional mayo and pickle juice. Check the salt level as it is dependent on your choice of mayonnaise and pickle juice, for how much additional salt may be needed. Makes lots.
Potato Latkes with Peas, Yogurt and Pea Shoots This gluten-free dish is best made with a floury potato such as Russet Burbank. Adapted from Taste Australia. 500 g
potatoes, peeled
²/³ c fresh peas or frozen, defrosted
²/³ c
feta, crumbled
3 green shallots, trimmed, thinly sliced 50 g (½ c) gluten-free cornstarch 3 t
ground coriander
½ T
turmeric
½ T
baking powder
2
eggs, lightly whisked
2 T
extra virgin olive oil
cherry tomatoes, fresh pea shoots and yogurt for garnish.
In a large bowl, whisk together the cornstarch, coriander, turmeric and baking powder. Reserve. Use a mandolin to grate the potatoes into long strips (or coarsely grate the potatoes with a box grater). Place the potatoes in a bowl and add the peas, feta and shallots.
Season. Make a well in the centre of the cornstarch mixture and add the egg and the potato mixture. Stir well to combine. Heat 3 teaspoons of oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add four ¼-cupfuls of the potato mixture to the pan. Cook for 3-4 minutes on each side until golden and cooked through. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towel to drain. Repeat with the remaining 3 teaspoons of oil and the potato mixture. Divide the potato fritters among serving plates. Top with the pea pesto, roasted tomatoes and yogurt. Serve with the pea shoots. Makes four latkes.
Pea Pesto Pea pesto is also delicious on a crostini with chopped fresh tomato and a drizzle of good olive oil.
piece of foil. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and a bit of butter. Throw in a good 3-4 thyme sprigs. Season. Fold the foil over, adding another piece if necessary to get good coverage and to fully seal. Place on a hot grill for about 30 minutes. Check the potatoes by squeezing, if they’re still hard let them cook for another 10 minutes or so. Move to the back of the grill when done to keep warm. While the potatoes are cooking, put the goat cheese in a bowl. Add the lemon juice and zest and whisk together until it’s thick and smooth. To serve, undo the foil and place the hot potatoes in the bowl. Toss to coat. Check seasoning, add more thyme, lemon or oil if desired. Serves 6-8.
Potato Waffles with Smoked Salmon
1 c
peas fresh or frozen
¼ c
pepitas
1 clove
garlic, chopped
1/
³ c 1 T
fresh cilantro leaves extra-virgin olive oil
Waffles
1 T
fresh lemon juice
1½ c
flour, sifted
1 T
hot water
¼ c
cornstarch
1 t
baking powder
1 t
sea salt
1½ c
buttermilk
¼ c
canola oil
2
eggs, separated
Process the peas, pepitas and garlic in a small food processor until coarsely chopped. Add the cilantro and process until combined. Add the oil, lemon juice and hot water and process until a coarse paste forms. Season. Cover and set aside for approximately 1 hour to develop the flavours.
Warm Fingerling Salad with Goat Cheese, Fresh Thyme and Lemon A foil packet on the grill is an easy way to make roast potatoes all summer long. The goal is a crisp surface with tender insides. 8-10 fingerlings (or any new potato) halved 2 T fresh thyme, chopped (or to taste)
zest of ½ a small lemon
juice of ½ a small lemon
½ sm tub chèvre, about 1/³ c sea salt and fresh cracked black pepper
olive oil
butter
Scrub potatoes lightly under running water, cut in half and lay out on a large
This is an amazing brunch dish. If you don’t have a waffle maker, you could make small pancakes instead. Adapted from Donna Hay. In Partnership With To Find a Retailer Visit: LIQUORCONNECT.COM/+778270
350 g floury potatoes, peeled and grated ¼ c
tarragon leaves
Toppings 6-8 slices smoked salmon 1 sm red onion, thinly sliced ¼ c
caper berries
2 c
watercress sprigs
finely grated fresh horseradish, to serve
Dressing ½ c
buttermilk
¼ c
crème fraîche
sea salt and fresh-cracked black pepper
To make the waffles, place the flour, cornstarch, baking powder and salt in a large bowl and mix to combine. Add the buttermilk, oil and egg yolks, whisk until smooth and set aside. Place the egg whites in a medium bowl and whisk until stiff peaks form. Please see “Potatoes” on page 29.
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CULTURE AUGUST 4-6, 2018 H E R I TA G E F E S T . C A
The Tomato | July August 2018 17
Beer Guy Not big on beer? Let’s talk about it. There’s always been a bit of a point of contention in my otherwise happy family. My mom does not like beer.
Evviva!
Family-style sharing plates. Join the party! 780.756.7710 for reservations vivo ristorante • 18352 Lessard Road • 780.756.7710
Now in most families, this wouldn’t be much of a talking point, but given that my dad, Peter Bailey, is the regular Tomato Beer Guy, the fact she dislikes beer can create some happy-hour tensions. My dad has practically given up on getting her to like beer, so when she asked for a sip of his beer at a late fall backyard patio party last year, he expected her to quickly pass it back, exclaiming, as she always does, “yup, tastes like beer.” Much to his surprise, she did not immediately pass the glass back as predicted. In fact, she continued to sip quietly away, quickly finishing her first beer in family memory. The beer was a cherry sour from Calgary’s Dandy Brewing. This single beer (thanks Dandy!), has twisted my mom’s perception of beer. Not that one sip of cherry sour made her into a double-IPA hop bomb devourer, but the door into the world of craft beer has been cracked open with a few sips of the right beer. Now I recognize that not everyone has to like beer. The biggest complaint I hear from my non-beer drinking friends is that beer is too beer-y. While this vague definition doesn’t tell us much of anything, I think we can define beeryness as either overly malty or overly bitter. Think 24-pack macro lagers, sweet sticky ambers and old-school, dry-out-your-mouth bitter IPAs. While these traditional beers have legions of loyal imbibers, I suspect that just as many folks would much rather grab a crisp apple cider, a punchy Merlot, or a well-crafted whiskey sour. And who would blame them! But as often discussed in this column, the world of beer is much different these days. New styles of beer using
18 July August 2018 | The Tomato
non-standard ingredients such as wheat, fruit, salt and oats are re-shaping ideas of how a beer should and can taste. The funny thing is that while these new emerging beer styles appear as though they’ve been hashed up by today’s brewmasters, brewers tend to be history buffs. Rarely is a new style concocted out of thin air. Instead, beer styles rise and fall in popularity. Today we are seeing the re-emergence of beer styles from the European Industrial Revolution, when beer was a source of refreshment and electrolytes after a long day in the mines, fields and factories. Styles like Gose, Grisette and Saison were all brewed with the intent of refreshing these weary workers. Conveniently, for today’s non-beer drinkers, these same beers are easy drinking, low alcohol and approachable. Take Gose as an example. Brewed with 50/50 wheat to traditional barley and salted during the brewing process, Gose is a super refreshing and unique beer style with subtle ciderlike sourness. Dating back to the 16th century, it was an extremely popular beer style in the city of Leipzig up through the 19th century before dying off during the wars. Nowadays, Gose is a popular style for craft breweries looking to make a low alcohol summer beer that appeals to a wider drinking audience, mainly due to its similarity to cider and juice. Blessed with modern brewing equipment and an ever expanding catalog of new hop and yeast strains, today’s craft brewers are armed with the tools to expand upon these historical beer styles and blow the door open on how we define beer-yness. Malty and bitter are no longer the only flavour profile; beer today can be fruity, sour, salty, roasty, smokey, sparkling or cloudy. Even if you’re not the biggest fan of beer, there is no better time than this summer to give beer another shot.
Tomato Ad-June2016 copy.pdf
1
2016-06-16
1:23 PM
Will Bailey
A six pack for the non-beer lover
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Beer lovers, don’t fret, these beers are also perfect for you this summer. Low alcohol and refreshing, these brews are tailor-made for the patio, lake and accidental beaches everywhere. Available at brewery tap rooms and better beer stores in Edmonton.
CM
MY
CY
CMY
Dog Island Dibs Berry Raspberry Wheat Ale
Eat & Drink... Outside! Our beautiful patio is open!
K
Craft beer north of Red Deer is quickly becoming a small town’s game. Lacombe, Ponoka, Edson and Sylvan Lake (x2!) are just a few of the small northern Alberta towns sporting their own craft breweries. With Dog Island Brewing, Slave Lake joins the craft brewery club. This delicious raspberry wheat ale is creamy, smooth and pours a lovely pale cloudy pink.
@GlassMonkeyYEG 780.760.2228
www.theglassmonkey.ca
5842-111 Street
Situation WTF Raspberry Ginger Gose Switching it up for summer 2018, Edmonton’s Situation Brewing has changed their ever-popular Gose recipe. Gone is the Blood Orange and in comes Raspberry Ginger. Playing with the salty-sour Gose style, Situation nailed it with this one. There’s sweetness from the berries, sourness from the lactobacillus and salt from the ginger. Perfectly sessionable at 3.5% alcohol.
Steamworks Tropical Tart Ale Can you teach an old dog new tricks? Formed in 1995 in Vancouver’s Gastown, Steamworks Brewpub stood pat while British Columbia’s craft brew scene exploded. But that changed in 2013. They opened a new production brewery, hired one of the best brewmasters around, Julia Hanlon, and started brewing innovative beers. Their Tropical Tart Ale is a margarita in a beer can, best enjoyed near a body of water.
Food Friends Fun 10350 – 124 Street | @YEGnoodles Take Out/UberEATS | 780-705-1777
Town Square Megawatt NEIPA IPA?! I thought you said this was for non-beer drinkers! This isn’t your old school, piney, overly bitter high-alcohol IPA. New England IPA (NEIPA) is one of the hottest styles in beer today, and for good reason: they are so darn drinkable. Wheat is added to the grain bill, and juicy modern hops are added later in the brew, meaning less bitterness and more hop aroma. The result is a cloudy tropical beer that is almost closer to orange juice than IPA.
CHEFSHERIDAN.COM | 780-554-0420 | INSTAGRAM @CHEFSHERIDAN Dinner parties | Appetizer parties | Cooking Classes | Pre-Made Meals
4 course in home dinner parties starting at $120 per person - includes hors deouvres and a wine pairing
Dandy Brewing Company Grisette Unfortunately, my mom’s Cherry Sour was a limited run from Dandy Brewing and not currently available. Luckily, Dandy also makes this Grisette, a light table beer originally brewed to quench the thirst of coal miners in 19th century Belgium. Expect a low alcohol brew (4 per cent) with light saison spice, a sparkling texture and pouring a pale blonde-grey in colour.
Medicine Hat Tart Cherry Ale Just in time for summer, Medicine Hat Brewing Company has launched their “Patio Series” of beers. First in the lineup is this Tart Cherry Ale. Based on their blonde ale, this beer is heavily fruited with Oregon cherry purée. Beyond the obvious cherry forward flavour, notes of cinnamon add a nice complexity to this perfect patio companion.
Where all the best parties happen.
780.757.7704 kitchenbybrad.ca #101, 10130 - 105 Street
Will Bailey is the son of the Beer Guy.
The Tomato | July August 2018 19
The Summertime Drink Showdown:
Iced Tea v.s. Lemonade Vivian Zenari
You’re sitting on the patio on a hot summer afternoon. A rivulet of sweat is rolling down each temple of your reddened face. On the table in front of you is a pitcher of iced tea and a pitcher of lemonade. Which pitcher do you reach for? If your patio guest happens to be Teresa Seibel, Chris Krock, Leanne Smoliak, or Kristina Pappas, you will get an earful of opinion. Local beverage expert and award-winning mixologist, Chris Krock, insists that lemon is best. His cocktails almost always have some lemon in them. Lemon is far superior to tea, he insists, when it comes to mixing never mind on its own. Teresa Seibel, a native Virginian living in Edmonton, has adapted to some local habits, but she has her limits. Seibel argues that, besides being much easier to make, iced tea is indeed amenable to mixing. Her iced tea routinely contains a mix of teas. Lemongrass tea, for instance, inserts lemony flavour into black teas without the calorie-boosting sugar. Besides, iced tea can complement any meal, whereas lemonade overwhelms other flavours and thus mitigates its usability. Kristina Pappas echoes Krock’s views that lemonade permits more flexibility. The Tomato’s summer intern loves berry lemonade, for example, not to mention frozen lemonade. She also contends that lemonade’s tartness has thirst-quenching properties that are lacking in iced tea. She admits to having a crush on the Arnold Palmer, the mix of iced tea and lemonade popularized by the legendary golfer. Pappas is so devoted to lemonade that she considers the Arnold Palmer to be a kind of flavoured lemonade. When she sees a glass of lemonade, however, all Seibel sees “is a big glass of carbs.” By carbs she means sugar. The citrus juice has plenty of sugar already, and since lemon juice is so tart, lemonade drinkers invariably add extra sugar. Iced tea does not contain sugar. If one wants lemony flavour, Seibel says, squeeze some drops of lemon into iced tea. She also worries about the acidity of lemons. If she finds herself drinking lemonade, she prefers to drink it out of a straw to protect her tooth enamel. Krock takes issue with Seibel’s glass of carbs metaphor. He acknowledges that lemon juice contains sugar, but he points out that some teas might very well include plant matter with “a wheat profile” and thus lead to carbohydration. He adds, half in jest, that lemonade is a light-coloured drink, whereas iced tea drinkers prefer the darker liquid. Perhaps, they prefer the dark side of life. Krock quickly points out, however, that he has nothing against iced tea. Leanne Smoliak, general manager of the Jubilee Auditoria and long-time fixture on Edmonton’s food and drink scene, has no quarrel with iced tea either. Nevertheless, for her and her lemon-loving cohorts, lemonade has connotations that iced tea lacks.
20 July August 2018 | The Tomato
For Smoliak, lemonade invokes images of patio umbrellas, the sun and running through the grass. In short, summer. Krock says the word lemonade immediately casts him back to long Alberta days at the family cabin at Pigeon Lake where he drank his grandfather’s lemonade. Pappas ran a lemonade stand with her sister when she was a girl, selling a serving at fifty cents a pop. Sometimes neighbourhood kids would pitch in to help, making the enterprise both remunerative and communal. Besides, she says, people can drink tea all year round, while lemonade is something uncommon, reserved for the summer, and thus a bit more special.
In the end, these four combatants showed patience, rather than hostility, towards their adversaries. For them, there is room for both pitchers on a patio table.
Lemonade is not just for children, of course, as Smoliak points out. Just like winter is Manhattan Season, summer is Gin Season, and there is nothing better on a hot day than gin and lemonade. She likes to set up an ad hoc bar in the backyard with lemonade, a bowl of ice, elderberry syrup, gin, vodka and Saint Germain and let the adults lemon-andbooze up their tall glasses. Krock has made a career out of alcoholic drinks and he considers lemon a fantastic additive since its tartness balances the bitterness and sweetness of other ingredients.
In a pitcher, mix the juice of six or seven lemons, half a cup of simple syrup (sugar dissolved in hot water and then cooled), seven cups of water and ice. Float berries or mint in the lemonade. Variant: add one ounce of gin and one ounce of St-Germain (elderberry liqueur) to a tall glass of lemonade with some (not too much) ice.
Seibel is not about to let lemonade beat iced tea on the nostalgic charm offensive. She associates iced tea with her grandmother, who, back in hot, humid Virginia, always had tea in the refrigerator. Here, Edmonton lingo fails to capture the nuances of Southern culture. “My granma’s tea was always sweet tea,” she says. Sweet tea is different, in other words, than tea, which, Seibel points out, is available in American restaurants in the same way water is available and consumed, chilled and unsweetened. When she offers her sweltering patio guests in Edmonton some tea, she has to assuage their consternation by assuring them that by tea she means what Edmontonians call iced tea. Of course, she says, the purists back home will only ever drink “sun tea,” tea steeped not in boiled water but in a jar of water and tea bags set out in the sun. Sun tea, she murmurs, tastes different than tea steeped in boiled water. She is not so fussy, though. Canadian-style tea is just fine.
Teresa’s Sweet Tea Brew two tea bags of organic green lemongrass tea and one bag of organic orange pekoe tea in a tea maker. To the brewed tea add an equivalent amount of cold water and chill the mixture in the refrigerator. Pour a serving into a glass and add liquid stevia drops to taste.
Leanne’s Lemonade
Vivian Zenari is a writer, educator and lemonade aficionado. She lives in Edmonton with an iced tea zealot.
O U R PA T I O S A R E I N F U L L B L O O M
ST ALBERT
T E RW I L L E GA R
78 0 . 5 69. 1 8 19
78 0 . 3 95 . 1 1 19 D I N E N I N E T E E N .CO M
The Tomato | July August 2018 21
Drinks Fridge door wines Refreshing flavours and general gregariousness and congeniality make these wines essential pours for summer. Keep them in the fridge door for easy access when friends come over. Note: lighter-bodied reds such as these are ideal for summer drinking after a 10-minute stint in the fridge.
2016 XIC Xarel-lo (Penedes, Spain) Switch up your regular crisp summer white with this new wine from Spain. XIC (pronounced chick) celebrates Xarel-lo’s creamy lemon curd texture and flavour along with a refreshing hit of citrusy acidity. Medium-bodied, bone dry and completely fun. Have with roasted olives and crostini-type appetizers, grilled fish or patatas bravas. Under $18, find at Color de Vino and the Wine Gallery.
2017 Cedar Creek Estate Riesling (Okanagan Valley, Canada) Aromas and flavours of stone fruit, jasmine, tangerine, with lowish 10 per cent alcohol and a bit of residual sugar. The wine reads only slightly sweet due to the lovely acidity. Drink as an aperitif with cheese plates or have with calamari or spicy seafood, under $25.
2017 Gérard Bertrand Côte des Roses Rosé (Languedoc, France) This attractive rosé in the pale Provence style has loads of flavour—love the crisp rhubarb and creamy rose petal aromas, the juicy strawberry notes and the whisper of fruity sweetness. Medium-bodied, this Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah blend can go from glass while cooking to dinner easily. Have with fish tacos, chicken quesadillas, under $20.
2017 Bender Kulina Riesling (Mosel, Germany) A regular in my fridge door due to its juicy acidity, crispy texture and lovely lime-scented and gunmetal aromas and flavours. Watch it, this is gulpable. Under $20, have with salad rolls or the goat cheese and thyme warm potato salad on page 17.
2016 Lock and Worth Cabernet Franc Rosé (Okanagan Valley, Canada) Beautifully balanced with juicy acidity and a slight hint of tannin, a little spicy, delicious. Have this exceptionally well-made wine with lobster and potato salad, under $35.
2016 Culmina R&D Rosé (Okanagan Valley, Canada) Ron and Don? Or research and development? This fun line of accessible wines from Culmina is
22 July August 2018 | The Tomato
Mary Bailey
named after both the Triggs brothers and the experimental attitude of the winery. The R&D RosĂŠ blend of Merlot, Malbec and Cab Sauv is a lovely pale coral. With aromas and flavours of citrus and cherry and something like sheets hung on the line, this wine could possibly define summer, under $35.
The world’s choice for gluten-free is made right here at home. Come taste why.
2016 Bella Gamay Noir RosÊ (Okanagan Valley, Canada) Attention all bubbleheads! Not only is Bella a delightful glug, it’s made in such a wonderful lo-fi way—bottle-fermented, hand-riddled, hand-disgorged—here’s to non-intervention. Have with snacks on the porch, under $23.
2016 Baron de Ley Club Privado Tinto (Rioja, Spain) This thirst-quenching, lighter-bodied red is a find. Love the red sweet cherry, strawberry and liquorice aromas, along with the cedar, warm spice and ripe tannins. Refreshing, drink as an aperitif, or with snacks, meat on a stick. Under $17.
2016 Azelia Bricco dell’Oriolo Dolcetto (Piedmont, Italy) While most Piedmont producers are pulling their Dolcetto vines to plant something more expensive, thank the wine gods for Azelia. It is a classic Dolcetto, aromatic, great fruit, light-bodied, so so drinkable. “It’s a bit spicy from the clay soil. This Dolcetto is on the top of the hill, a monopole (vineyard with one owner) from my grandmother’s side of the family,� says Lorenzo Scavino of Azelia. “My father pays a lot of attention to the Dolcetto. He says it shows the quality and style of the winery.� If I could drink only one red all summer, this would be it. Have with prosciutto and melon, lightlysauced pastas, grilled pork, cheeseburgers, around $27.
Open Tuesday to Saturday GetItFresh.ca
Kinnikinnick Fresh 10940 – 120 Street, Edmonton 780-732-7527
Mary Bailey (Dip WSET, FWS) is a frequent reacher into the fridge door during the summer.
L O C A L F O O D A N D A RT
Come and experience the best local restaurants, food trucks and artists in Strathcona County - fun for the whole family! Sunday, July 8, 2018, 4-8 p.m. Strathcona County Community Centre – Agora, Sherwood Park
Artisan market brought to you by
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The Tomato | July August 2018 23
The Proust Culinary Questionnaire Andrew Fung, chef/proprietor XIX In the late nineteenth century, French novelist Marcel Proust participated in an exercise which could be thought of as the Facebook of its era—he answered a questionnaire about himself in a friend’s Confession Album. Proust’s answers have been published, in one form or another, for more than a century. Many have used the questionnaire for their own devices, the most notable being Vanity Fair’s Proust Questionnaire featuring celebrities. The Tomato gives it a culinary twist. Andrew Fung is a classically-trained chef who combines elements of his Chinese heritage with classic French technique to create robust yet elegant food based on the seasons. Andrew studied baking at NAIT, then trained in Vancouver at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts. His apprenticeship was spent with Larry Stewart at the Hardware Grill. He worked at Hardware on and off for six years, then spent two years in Switzerland at the Hotel Engimatt in Zurich. (Cam Dobranski, another Hardware alumni, had done the same.) His time in Switzerland had a big impact. Not only was Andrew one of Switzerland’s top six chefs at the 2003 Swiss Culinary Cup; “I learned you need to enjoy life,” he says. Andrew moved on to the Blackhawk Golf Course for nine years where he was the executive chef. Six years ago, Andrew and Al Prokop opened the first XIX (Nineteen) in Terwillegar, followed by the St. Albert location in 2015. (That kitchen is helmed by Rino Lam.)
24 July August 2018 | The Tomato
Bison burger... with the works?
Whatever you’re having... We’ve Got a Wine for That! Andrew’s food, always balanced and never over the top, has a depth of flavour and sense of whimsy that is irresistible. We love Andrew’s zest for life, his sense of humour and his sense of community. Hometown? Hong Kong. Years cooking? 20 years professionally, but I have been cooking since I was 15. Where would you like to live? Vancouver. Your favourite food and drink? I really like traditional Chinese food, like at Shanghai 456. I love dumplings especially. And full-bodied California reds. I love Migration. What would you be doing if you weren’t cooking? Actually, I wanted to be a dentist. I’m good with my hands, good at sculpture. What do you most appreciate in your friends? Honest, humble, professionalism. Your favourite qualities in a dish? Clean flavours, simplicity. Like our spot prawns dish—just blanched and served with chili salsa and olive oil. A cook? Creativity, work ethic. A wine? I really like the winemaker who is not focusing on the money, but developing the vineyards. It takes time to build. Flavour. Integrity. Who would be at your dream dinner table (dead or alive)? Paul Bocuse and Jackie Chan. Who would cook? My mom.
Which words or phrases do you most overuse? Other than swearing? Come on! Current culinary obsession/exploration? Lately, I’m focusing on the people who grow the food, as a friend, not necessarily always about how they do things, but more a reflection on how they live. Getting to know the family, like Nicola at Irvings, or Eric at Peas on Earth; Yvan from Bon Jour Bakery. Meaningful/crazy cooking experience? I cooked at the Hotel Engimatt in Zurich. Chef Anton Mosimann always stayed there, he would use our kitchen. I got to work side by side with him. Best (cooking) thing that ever happened to you? In 2003 at Bocuse d’Or, I met Paul Bocuse in person. And got a photo. Mentors? Larry (Stewart) will always be my mentor in cooking. Al Prokop is my mentor in business. Favourite casual cheap and cheerful/afterwork food? We like to go to the Hot Pot in Strathcona. Sometimes there will be 15 of us. Wonderful food and the staff is great. Philosophy? Commitment. Ethics as a human. It’s not all about ourselves, it’s about building a community. That’s what I try to pass along to my staff. What’s next? We are focusing on building St. Albert into the restaurant we think it can be. We would like to be named the best restaurant in town. This is our goal. I say to the staff… top three. Every year we have this goal.
West Edmonton Mall • Entrance 58
@Aligrawine
780.483.103 • www.aligrawineandspirits.com
facebook.com/aligrawine
Comfort food created from scratch and made with love
Gin cocktails, craft beer Gluten free & vegetarian features 9514-87 St.
Edmonton
780-490-6799
juniperbistro.com
Chef Levi Biddlecombe
Red Door, Second Floor 8534 109 street, 2nd floor (above the red pony) • 780-297-5757 • whynoteat.ca
Cibo / chee-bo / noun. Ital. 1 food. 2 a place to eat great Italian food.
780-757-2426 • cibobistro.com • 11244 - 104 Ave (Oliver Square) Lunch 11.30 am – 2 pm Tue-Fri • Dinner 5 pm – 10 pm Tue-Sat
The Tomato | July August 2018 25
Wine Maven
Lorenzo Scavino (Azelia) with Tracy Zizek (Kitchen by Brad). Oscar Quevedo (Quevedo) and Mike Angus (Pip).
It’s a treat to chat with Oscar Quevedo (former investment banker, now with his family’s wine estate) and taste the Ports. The 10yr Tawny explodes with red fruit; the LBV is woody, intense, even fiery—think baked bramble berries. The 40yr smells like brown sugar and orange peel, with bright flavours and good acidity. All the ports read a bit dryer than most, without being overly tannic. The Single Barrel Port, only available in Alberta, is mellow, and tastes of prunes and dried fruit with great acidity. It’s extremely well-balanced with a long finish. The excellent 1968 Celebration Port is a stunner, rich and mellow, with a finish that goes on for days, well worth the $300 price tag. Oscar Quevedo on the family business: “In the weeks after my grandfather’s death, I kept thinking: ‘What am I doing in Switzerland working for someone else?’ My sister Claudia is the winemaker. My father is the viticulturist. I do the blends and the sales and marketing of the wine. He wants me to do his job too, but he’s only 71. “We export 94 percent of the wines we make to 32 countries,” says Oscar; “Port is 70 percent of that. Up until Portugal joined the European Union in 1986, all Port had to be shipped from Porto. When my parents built the new winery, they were thinking of export, because the Portuguese market is crowded and focused on inexpensive wines. We started to bottle and ship from the winery in 1994, to Belgium, through Spain by truck. “The focus is on Portugal now. And it’s exciting to be in the Duero.”
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Lorenzo Scavino, is the fourth generation of the Barolo producer Azelia. He feels no pressure. “My father is still the big boss,” he says. “It’s not just a job, we live at the winery, we are never on vacation. If you want to work the way we work, every detail counts. My father is a terrible perfectionist.” We start with the bright and happy Dolcetto, one of my favourite wines from Azelia, then on to the Langhe Nebbiolo. “Langhe can have 15 percent of other grapes, but ours is 100 per cent Nebbiolo from the younger vines. My father never wants to make Barolo from anything under 45 years,” he says. It’s delicious, smelling of violets and fig with loads of red fruit. The Barolos, Barolo DOCG and four single vineyard wines, (Bricco Fiasco, Margheria, San Rocco and Bricco Voghera), are quintessential Nebbiolo, reflecting their vineyard sites in both Castiglione Falletto and Serralungo d’Alba: soil, aspect, age of vines and careful winemaking. The Barolos are fermented by indigenous yeasts with submerged caps and spend varying times in large casks before bottling. “The most important thing is the quality of the raw material,” says Lorenzo. Lorenzo also puts paid to the idea that you have to wait decades before drinking Barolo.“I like the freshness of the young vintages, and the contrast of the vintages is more apparent in younger wines.” Agusti Torello Mata makes great Cava, Spain’s high quality, traditional method sparkling wine in the heart of the Penedes. New to the shops is the Aliguer Brut, under $25. The wine is made from young Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada, the classic cava grapes, and spends 24 months aging. We love its creamy bubbles and fresh flavours. Candy is dandy; how much more fun can it be when flavoured with your favourite tipple? These adults-only gummies come in Prosecco and Gin Fizz, all-natural and not too sweet. $6 each.
Mary Bailey
Jane Ferrari (Yalumba) with Paul Kohl (Color de Vino).
Jane Ferrari starts the tasting of Yalumba wines with this: “If you are looking for chemical breakdowns, you’ll be gravely disappointed.” It’s not that Jane doesn’t know, it’s that she chooses to share other, more interesting stories. She knows we would rather hear about football and U2; who settled the Barossa and why; that Viognier is a diva, and especially, about Fred Caley Smith, grandson of Yalumba founder Samuel Smith, whose travel account Jane found one day. His name now graces the flagship Cab Shiraz blend (44 of the 66 bottles allocated to Canada were sold in Edmonton). We also find out that Viognier loves lemongrass, ginger, coriander, cilantro and Grenache loves five spice. Then, we get to taste their top-line Viognier (wild ferment, whole cluster, battonage for three months, ML actively discouraged); the heady, juicy Grenache; Menzies Cab (blackcurrant, cedar, menthol, shiitake, refined, not aggressive—love the cooling mint with the voluptuous fruit). The Octavious Shiraz, the 2014 signature Cab Shiraz blend (red fruit, eucalyptus, cedar, white pepper, something like cocoa, juicy with soft tannins) doesn’t disappoint. The tasting ends with the brooding, muscular 2012 Caley—elegant, subtle, meditative. What a ride. Jorge Ramos visited Edmonton on a road trip to introduce the Taylor Fladgate 2016 vintage Ports. The declaration is made by each individual house on St Georges Day, April 23. We may think of the declaration as another charming anachronism of the Port business, and vintage port may only be two percent of Taylor’s business, but much is riding on the vintage declaration. The vintage Ports are the stalwarts of a Port house in a similar way that vintage Champagne is for Champagne houses. Will the wines prove to be outstanding in 50 years? The master blenders have to decide based on their experience, the harvest and the wine. The average declaration is three times per decade; Taylor declared in 2003, 2005, 2007 and 2009. Taylor’s Vintage 2016 is a blend of Taylor’s top sites—Vargellas and the two Pinhao Valley estates, Quinta de Terra Feita and Quinta do Junco. (Both of these were hit hard in June’s freak hailstorm.) What’s all the excitement about? The aromas—floral, fresh raspberries, bright notes of green apple followed by fragrant cedar and jasmine, ginger and black currant—are heady and complex. The wine is amazingly balanced—lean, sinewy, yet well-integrated tannins create a delicious backbone for the delicious notes of berry fruit. The wine is elegant, restrained, somewhat mysterious; promising more flavour and complexity down the road. Port lovers rejoice.
Nelson Gomes (Fine Vine Imports) with Sergio Soriano (Baron de Ley).
Sergio Soriano, export director for Spanish producer Baron de Ley, was in Alberta recently to introduce their sister company in Rioja, El Coto. Baron de Ley which grows most of its fruit in Rioja Baja (except the Gran Reserva, which is from Rioja Alta) is thought of as a Reserva specialist. El Coto, Rioja’s leader in oak aged reds, is based in Rioja Alavesa. The El Coto style is more fruit forward, perhaps more contemporary and just as delicious. It is the top selling Rioja brand in Spain. Chardonnay lovers will be over the moon about the Baron de Ley Tres Vinas. Maceration on fine lees and appropriate aging in barrel leads to lots of texture, complexity with excellent wood integration. Dry, with juicy acidity and concentration, this blend of Viura, Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca would be the perfect accompaniment to lobster this summer, about $32. Siete Vinas Reserva is a blend of all the Rioja grapes (Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha Mazuelo, Viura, Malvasia Blanco and Garnacha Blanco). Each wine is vinified separately, then comes together in the final blend which ages in large oak foudres for 12 months. A savoury wine with olive, herbaceous and red fruit aromas and flavours, it is limited to 1000 bottles. The Coto de Imaz Gran Reserva 2010 was, to our great dismay, corked. Will be trying this very, very soon. Last but not least, let’s talk about the 2010 Baron de Ley Reserva. The wine is lovely—with an aromatic richness, elegant, with well-integrated tannins, not astringent, with both soft berry fruit and some background notes of cedar and earth. Amazing value and ready to drink now, $50ish.
The Tomato | July August 2018 27
Kitchen Sink wine tastings happenings and events Every Monday is Happy Monday at The Glass Monkey (5842 111 Street, 780-760-2228, theglassmonkey.ca) when all bottles of wine are $20 off. Or, if Thursday is more your jam, come for $6 pints of draught on their jewel of a patio. Mark the date for the 2018 Tomato Extravaganza at The Enjoy Centre (101 Riel Drive, St Albert). The event is ripe with talks, tomato tastings, and tours, August 29, 2pm, tix $5/p, edmontonhort.com/tomatoextravaganza. We can’t wait to feast at the Heritage Festival (9330 Groat Road, 780-4883378, heritagefest.ca). This year 100 countries will be serving their tastiest national specialties at Hawrelak Park, August 4-6. Don’t miss Savour (401 Festival Lane, strathcona.ca/savour) in Strathcona County. Enjoy art and music along with tacos from Casa 12 Doce and Yorkshire pudding beef dip wraps at Benny’s Yorkshire Shack, Sunday, July 8, 4pm-8pm. Food tix: $1 each, in multiples of 5. BaconFest is back on September 2, 4:30pm-10pm, at St. Basil’s (10819 71 Avenue). Indulge in all things bacon, juicy favourites from Zinc, the Local Omnivore, Bacon Boss and Makin’ Bacon Food Truck, baconfestyeg.ca. New and notable at Taste of Edmonton: Their new location, at Capitol Plaza, (108 Street and 99 Avenue, 780-423-2822), and Taste2Remember by Sysco, which features 10 exclusive dinners with local chefs. Check out the Italian Center Shops’ booth for delish pastries and sandwiches, yum! July 18-29. Tix, info and schedules at tasteofedm.ca. Two YEG hospitality folks are putting Edmonton on the food and drink map yet again. Evan Watson
28 July August 2018 | The Tomato
what’s new and notable (Bar Clementine) won the regional Chaîne des Rôtisseur’s Best Young Sommeliers Competition. He sailed through two rounds of competition, with the finals consisting of a blind tasting, service exams, oral theory and a pairing exercise. Because of a mix-up choosing the national winner, Evan is able to compete again next year too. James Grant (Wilfred’s) competed in the Canadian Diageo World Class bartending competition in Montreal in May. He landed in the top four and won the signature cocktail award. “Other bartenders would ask; ‘are you from Toronto? From Vancouver? From Calgary?’ “When I said Edmonton, they looked a little stunned,” says James, over negronis at Wilfred’s. Learn to make James’ delish coconut daiquiri, page 7. Hicks Fine Wines (109-150 Bellerose Drive, 780-569-5000) are open until 8pm on Friday nights and will feature a weekly wine pick.
product news Meuwly’s (10706 124 Street, meuwleys.com) opens Thursday, July 5. Yahoo! We’re looking forward to the charcuterie, sausages and preserves, along with other local food products. We are big fans of the Ruby Apron’s (therubyapron.ca, 780-906-0509) cooking classes. Here are a few highlights—Intro to Sourdough with Tony and Penny Marshall of Highwood Crossing Foods, July 14, $85; All Things Chicken, August 9, $95; Pie Class with Jam Demo, August 28, $95. Check out the entire schedule at therubyapron.ca. Knifewear (10820 82 Avenue, 587-5212034, knifewear.com) is hosting three blacksmiths, Shibata-san, Ikeda-san and Hiroshi Kato-san of Masakage Knives Kotetsu knives on a Canadian tour this summer. They will be doing blacksmithing and knife sharpening demonstrations on July 14. “You will be able to smell the coal fire, hear the sounds and see the sparks,” says Kevin Kent of Knifewear.
restaurant buzz The Hardware Grill (9698 Jasper Avenue, 780-423-0969, hardwaregrill. com) is closed for the long weekend, July 1-4 and July 8-10. They are open July 5-7 and regular summer hours return July 11. The summer menu includes fresh Canadian buratta and buffalo mozzarella and July features their incomparable lobster linguini. In staff news, seasoned professionals Clint Zaiffdeen, Steven Hugens and Joanne Lofeudo are back in action at the Hardware Grill as well as the ubertalented Kieran McKinney, who heads up the baking department. The Juniper Café (9514 87 Street, 780-490-6799, juniperbistro.com) has made friends with the folks at the Green & Gold market garden at the U of A farm and Steve & Dan’s. You can expect to see lots of fresh local produce on their menus over the summer. Vivo Ristorante West (18352 Lessard Road, 780-756-7710, vivoristorante. ca) features the Chef ’s Tasting Menu for two on weekend nights. Each fourcourse menu offers at least seven dishes to choose from, such as the classic grilled Caesar or sea bass, as well as new items—panzanella salad or a grilled veal chop. Prices range from $90-$130/for two, depending on the menu. Two unexpected pairings, yoga and gin. XIX Nineteen (5490 Mullen Way, 780-395-1119, terwillegar.dinenineteen. com) is putting on a Yin and Gin event in early July, visit their website for all the deets. Check out the new summer menu while you are there with items such as pork belly tacos and Dijon-crusted halibut. Curbside Food Truck (curbsideyeg.ca) by A Cappella Catering is open daily at different locations around the city (find them on the Street Food app). What to order? The brisket (smoked beef brisket and marinated onions on a Portuguese bun) or the Montreal smoked meat. The kitchen smokes low and slow to create delectably moist and flavourful meats for their sandwiches. Visit Curbside
during the Street Performer’s Festival at McIntyre Park, July 10-15. Check out the Middle Eastern buffet and à la carte menu at the Babylon Restaurant (11845 Wayne Gretzky Drive, 780-705-0300, babyloncuisine. ca) in the unlikely location of the Coliseum Hotel, run by an Iraqi family. We can’t wait to try quzi, slow-roasted lamb, roasted nuts and raisins over rice, okra or white bean broth. Wilfred’s (10429 121 Street, 780-4245911, wilfreds.co) is now open. We love the charming and whimsical look and the delish all-day menu. The Blue Chair (9624 76 Avenue, 780-989-2861, bluechair.ca) was promised a new patio last summer and now it looks like it’s actually happening! Expect bbq and craft beers on the deck, lighter small plates along with a kids menu for a casual night out in Ritchie.
in memorium Food columnist, cookbook author and menu consultant Barbara Kafka has died at 84. Her six cookbooks (Roasting: A Simple Art, and probably the best cookbook out there for those with gluten and lactose intolerances, The Intolerant Gourmet: Glorious Food Without Gluten & Lactose) were detailed, precise and didn’t always follow current wisdom. Her first food epiphany was over vichyssoise. Oddly enough, so was Anthony Bourdain’s. “As you move through this life and this world, you change things slightly, you leave marks behind, however small. And in return, life—and travel—leaves marks on you. Most of the time, those marks—on your body or on your heart—are beautiful. Often, though, they hurt.” –Anthony Bourdain, died June 8. He was 61 years old. Send new and/or interesting food and drink related news for Kitchen Sink to hello@thetomato.ca.
Potatoes Continued from page 17.
Add the egg whites to the flour mixture and gently fold to combine. When you are ready to make the waffles fold in the grated potato and tarragon. Preheat a lightly-greased waffle maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Cook ¾ cup of the waffle batter for 7-8 minutes or until golden brown and crisp. Repeat with the remaining batter to make 4 waffles (or pancakes). While the waffles are cooking, make the dressing. Place the buttermilk, crème fraîche, salt and pepper in a small bowl and mix to combine. Divide the waffles on 4 plates and top with the salmon, onion, caper berries, watercress and horseradish. Drizzle with the dressing to serve. Serves 4.
Fresh Sablefish Niçoise “This is a take on traditional French Niçoise salad, with green or yellow beans, tomatoes, boiled egg and fresh oregano. Make the salad component ahead of time so you can concentrate on cooking the fish to perfection, because it is the star.” –Rod Butters, The Okanagan Table. 2
new potatoes
¾ c green and/or yellow beans, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
set aside. In a small bowl, combine the anchovies, vinegar, 1 tablespoon of olive oil, the parsley and oregano. Whisk until emulsified. Pour the dressing over the potato mixture and gently mix. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside. In a medium skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat. Pat-dry the sablefish with a paper towel, then season with salt and pepper. Put the fish in the pan and cook for 3 minutes. Add butter, spoon the melted butter over the fish, and cook for another 2 minutes, until a nice crust has formed. Flip the fish over and cook for another 3 minutes, until the fish is just cooked through. (Do not overcook.)
Serves 2.
Roast Potatoes and Chanterelles
2 T
at tasteofedm.ca TASTEOFEDM.CA
extra-virgin olive oil
2 t cream (if desired for extra richness)
green onions, chopped
2
3
anchovies, finely chopped
2 T
balsamic vinegar
3 T
extra-virgin olive oil (divided)
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chopped parsley
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chopped oregano
Combine the potatoes, beans, tomatoes, egg and green onions in a bowl and
or buy now online
every sheet of 40 tickets
¼ c fresh parsley leaves, packed
3
Bring a separate pot of salted water to a boil, add the beans and blanch for 30-45 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the beans to a bowl of ice water to stop cooking. Drain.
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watch for our taste-mobile
2 c chanterelles (or cremini mushrooms, trimmed)*
hard-boiled egg, thinly sliced
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil, add the potatoes, and simmer for 1020 minutes, until tender. Drain and set aside. When cool slice thinly.
PRE-SALE
6-10 red new potatoes, quartered
1
unsalted butter
on taste tickets
Serve with grilled steak and just-picked tomatoes.
squeeze of lemon juice, or splash (approx. 1-2 T) of sherry vinegar
1 T
save
available until July 17
cherry tomatoes, halved
2 (5oz) skinless sablefish fillets
CAPITAL PLAZA 99 AVE. & 108 ST.
To Serve: Transfer the salad to 2 plates, top with sablefish and spoon any pan drippings over the fish. Serve immediately.
¾ c
sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper
july 18 - 29, 2018
caper berries (optional)
Preheat oven to 450ºF, with racks in upper and lower thirds. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss mushrooms with 1 tablespoon of oil. Season. On another rimmed baking sheet, toss potatoes with 1 tablespoon of oil. Season. Roast until mushrooms are browned and potatoes are cooked through, about 20 minutes, tossing once and rotating sheets halfway through. Transfer to a bowl, stir in the cream if using and toss with parsley, vinegar and capers. Serves 4-6. * Mo-Na Mushrooms, at the City Market on 104 Street, often has fresh chanterelles. Or, buy a packet of dried chanterelles at the Italian Centre South Side. Mary Bailey, the editor of The Tomato, comes from a proud Manitoba potatogrowing family.
hardware grill hardware grill hardware grill est. 1996
est. 1996
est. 1996
Enjoy award-winning cuisine in relaxed elegance at Edmonton’s original farm-to-table restaurant. est. 1996
est. 1996
est. 1996
Join us for dinner Monday-Saturday from 5pm.
780.423.0969 • www.hardwaregrill.com • 97 Street & Jasper Avenue
The Tomato | July August 2018 29
Nourishing Entertainment! Metro Cinema is a community-based non-profit society devoted to the exhibition and promotion of Canadian, international, and independent film and video.
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Adult: $13, Student/Senior: $10 ($8 matinee), Child: $8
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1 Classic Italian aperitivo 5 It may be French, at breakfast 8 Floor materials 10 Full Moon Pale, for one 11 Rocks at the bar 12 Munches 13 Wild pig 14 Superlative suffix 15 Vietnamese dish 16 Ancient Chinese game 17 Including the kitchen sink 18 Kobe, for one 20 TV chef, Rachael 23 French cocktail made from créme de cassis and white wine 25 Intriguing pancake, ____ Cake 27 Portuguese valley that was the birthplace of port 29 Well-known Edmonton bakeshop, The ____ 32 Fish and chips companion 33 Recycle 35 Beer buys 36 Latte server
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See the city, meet new people, sample local food and burn calories — what’s not to like?
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Cielo
August 31 - September 6 Cielo is a cinematic reverie on the beauty of the night sky, as experienced in the Atacama Desert, Chile. The film drifts between science and spirituality, the arid land, desert shores, and lush galaxies, expanding the limits of our imaginations.
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July 19 @ 6:45PM One of the greatest achievements by Akira Kurosawa, Ikiru shows the director at his most compassionate—affirming life through an exploration of death: an aging bureaucrat with cancer searches to find meaning in his final days.
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JUNE 16 & 17, 2018 WAS A SUCCESS BECAUSE OF YOU,
Thank You
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Join us June 15-16, 2019
Porkapalooza V. 6 THANK YOU TO OUR GENEROUS SPONSORS Alberta Pork Northlands, Servus, Corus, Taste Alberta
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