Take a bite of your city | March April 2019 | thetomato.ca
Top 100 Best Things to Eat and Drink Charcuterie!
NEW DATES FOR 2019
CULINARY BOOT CAMPS
PREPARE FOR YOUR NEXT CULINARY ADVENTURE!
NAIT’s Culinary Boot Camps reveal the secrets to cooking and baking like a pro through hands-on practice, lectures and demonstrations in our state-of-the-art kitchens. Get your culinary skills in shape through lessons on planning, preparation and flavour pairings. Learn from NAIT’s celebrated chefs. Enrol now for June boot camps. PASTRY BOOT CAMP [BAKG330] | Mon – Fri | June 17-21 Fee: $1,475 (+ $500 material fees)
CULINARY BOOT CAMP [CULG305] | Tue – Fri | June 18-21 Fee: $1025 (+ $400 material fees)
Call NAIT at 780.471.6248 or register online at nait.ca/bootcamp
A LEADING POLYTECHNIC COMMITTED TO YOUR SUCCESS
Contents
Editor Mary Bailey marybee@telus.net
Publisher BGP Publishing
Copy Editor Shauna Faragini
Features
Contributing Writers Peter Bailey Noelle Chorney Curtis Comeau Anne DesBrisay John Gilchrist Iain Ilich Myles Mellor
Best things to eat or drink in Edmonton
Design and Prepress
14 Great Pizza from a Pre-made Crust? That’s Amore! | Iain Ilich
Illustration/Photography Curtis Comeau Ben Champoux Steven Babish Shaun Hicks
6 The 7th Annual Top 100
16 Aging Gracefully A photographer explores charcuterie | Curtis Comeau
Bossanova Communications Inc.
24 Canadian Culinary Championships Who topped the podium this year?
WebMeister Gunnar Blodgett, COPA Jurist
Departments
Printer
Distribution
Gastronomic happenings around town
Greenline Distribution For editorial inquiries, information, letters, suggestions or ideas, contact The Tomato at 780.431.1802 or email marybee@telus.net. For advertising information call 780.431.1802.
The Tomato is published six times per year: January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December
5 Dish
12 Wine Maven Mary Bailey
22 Beer Guy Beer and Bud | Peter Bailey
28 Kitchen Sink What’s new and notable
30 The Crossword Myles Mellor
by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780.431.1802 Subscriptions are available for $25 per year. thetomato.ca
On the cover: Chef Rosario Caputo of Cibo Bistro slices house-made salumi Curtis Comeau Photography.
Celebrating Edmonton’s
20 YEARS
Food Culture Since 1996 The Tomato | March April 2019 3
CELEBRATING EST.
60
1959
YEARS
Local f lair, European fare. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.
At our shops, we import thousands of European culinary treasures to compliment ingredients produced by Alberta farmers and purveyors to create a truly unique blend of local and global flavours.
Italiancentre.ca
EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End
CALGARY Willow Park
Fox Tower • 10228-104 Street • bundokyeg.com • @bundokyeg
SERVING ALBERTANS
Modern Canadian Cuisine
Dish
gastronomic happenings around town
new chef at wickaninnish inn The Pointe Restaurant at the Wickaninnish Inn in Tofino, a favourite of many an Edmonton diner, has a new chef, Carmen Ingham. Chef Ingham says his passion is showcasing ingredients that represent a “sense of this place, at the highest level possible.” He is at home on Vancouver Island, having cooked at Olo Resturant in Victoria and at Villa Eyrie Resort on the Malahat. The former exec chef at the Pointe, Warren Barr, is opening a resto called Pluvio restaurant + rooms with his partner Lily Verney-Downey in Ucluelet. Can’t wait to try that.
green onion cake man is back! Sui To has been cooking for Edmontonians for several decades, since opening his first restaurant, the Happy Garden, in Parkallen. But he’s best known for creating the green onion cake. The fried pastry, chock full of scallions; a little bit salty and a little bit greasy, has become Edmonton’s ubiquitous festival food and, some might say, Edmonton’s signature dish. Sui To is a delight—funny, mischievous, probably a bit of a rascal. “My wife wanted to move to Vancouver, so I closed the Noodle Maker and we moved to Vancouver,” he says. “But I didn’t like it, too grey, too wet, so I moved back.” Did your wife move back too? “Yes, a few months later.” We’re glad he’s back in town. You can enjoy fried green onion cakes, hot and sour soup and a few other Northern Chinese classics along with a delicious pot of tea (his own blend) at Green Onion Cake Man restaurant. Small and spare, with black and white Toti prints on the wall, it’s a comfortable spot for a casual lunch. Don’t forget to pick up a few frozen dumplings and green onion cakes (pan-fry ready or toaster ready) as you leave. Green Onion Cake Man, 9132 118 Avenue.
cooking without flame at kanu We spent a bit of time in the kitchen at Kanu, Edmonton’s new plant-based eatery, with chefs Justin O’Reilly and Jordan Wiggins. The kitchen is all electric, with no open flame. There are several induction burners lined up on the counter and a convection and turbo fan oven along with four blenders. “We are 50 per cent raw;” says Justin, “and we do a lot of blending and puréeing.” That morning Jade Auclair was prepping cabbage to make kimchee (cabbage, ginger, garlic, shallots, chillies) for their top selling kimchee dumplings. “It cures in four to five days,” says Jordan, “and we use creamed cashew nut so the final flavour is not as sour.” Justin is new to Edmonton, having spent most of his cooking career in Saskatchewan. He’s been busy building relationship with local farmers. “I love Doef ’s—we can get jalepenos and other peppers from them and year-round eggplants and cucumber.” He also has some not so obvious resources. “Matthew Kenney (the plant-based chef Sherry and George Schluessel partnered with to open Kanu) has restaurants around the globe and has built supply chains, so I can get things like bigger beet greens. I can call 35 chefs anywhere to find ingredients.”
the future of food We are huge fans of chef Marc Lepine, having watched him win the Canadian Culinary Championships not once, but twice. His restaurant in Ottawa, Atelier continues to offer a rare and exciting dining experience, according to fellow CCC judge Anne DesBrisay, who co-wrote the book with Mark. It is a work of art, with stunning photography by Christian Lalonde, with 45 recipes, inspired by the seasons, local ingredients and innovative technique. Don’t let that deter you. Atelier is a journey into the mind of one of the world’s best chefs. Atelier, Figure 1 Publishing, $45. Photos from top: The Pointe’s new chef; Justin (left) and Jordan of Kanu; Marc Lepine’s cookbook, green onion cake man Sui To.
The Tomato | March April 2019 5
The Seventh Annual
TOP ONE HUNDRED Best things to eat or drink in Edmonton
Pasta, pizza and burgers figured heavily in this year’s Top 100. As did pastry, ramen, dumplings, a few spirited cocktails and lots and lots of sweets. Explore what’s deliciously noteworthy to map out your must-try list.
2
6 March April 2019 | The Tomato
Steven Babish photo
Steven Babish photo
1
2
1. RGE RD’s Questionable Bits: Blood Sausage “Chef Davina Moraiko’s house-made blood sausage is often served on RGE RD’s questionable bits. It’s so well balanced, with everything you want in a dish. The savoury blood sausage was studded with house-cured lardo and served with tangy fermented cabbage, fresh honey crisp apple, slightly sweet cider hollandaise, kale and onion purée, dehydrated kale and pork heart dust, and crunchy cracklin’. So good, it placed first at the regional competition of the 2018 Canada’s Great Kitchen Party,” says Anthony Guy.
2. Uccellino’s Pumpkin Tortelli and the Brick Chicken The pumpkin-filled tortelli is a dream, rich and savoury with hints of sage, truly autumnal. Tied with the tortelli is the pollo al mattone, an unbelievably flavourful roast chicken cooked under a brick and served with a lemony herbaceous sauce. Tender, juicy, delicious.
3. The Butternut Tree’s Canadian Cheese Course What better way to finish up the wine than with a cheese course, and the Butternut Tree’s selection celebrates the best artisan cheeses from across Canada, which too often get short shrift. Also, the amazing bison ribeye and the tasting menus—“first time to eat moss, intentionally,” said one nominator.
4. Corso 32’s Guinea Fowl Tortellini and the Ricota Crostini Corso’s hand-made, filled pastas continue to wow their diners. The fillings, complex and flavourful as they are, never overwhelm the delicate pasta. This tortellini broth had depth, complexity and flavour for miles. The house-made ricotta with crostini is housemade soft cheese served with crostini, sea salt and rosemary oil. Simple? You bet. Easy? Not on your life. The dish illustrates what Corso does best, which is pay attention. There is always scrupulous attention to details, the quality of the ingredients, and the balance of flavours.
6
5. Cibo Bistro’s Rabbit Ragu and the Arancini This pasta is the perfect winter dish, hearty, slightly gamy with a terrific texture and depth of flavour, as well as being a delightful pairing with Brunello. It’s also typical of the wonderful flavours that come out of this kitchen—mushroomy cheesy, crispy arancini; house-made guanciale; braised lamb shanks and their incredible bistecca, best shared with friends.
6. The Marc’s Frites and the Daily Fish The Marc’s pommes frites with truffled mayo. “That with a glass of Champagne makes everything right,” said one nominator. We also love the daily iterations of Arctic char that the Marc offers on the lunch menu, especially when it’s with lentils. “Let’s not forget the beignets,” said another. The Marc’s warm and pillowy bits of fried sweet nothings, with two sauces for dipping, are hard to resist.
7
7. Nineteen’s Tuna Twists and the Veal Chop “Tuna twists have got the wow factor,” said one nominator. The tasty raw tuna with spicy noodles appetizer is a perennial favourite. We love the eclectic menu ranging from classic (snails with garlic butter) to the Fung Bun with mushrooms and feta. The other dishes that nominators loved are the roasted bone marrow and the veal chop, and the variety of bao bennies served at brunch. Delish!
8. Bar Bricco’s Egg Yolk Raviolo and the Rye and Speck Crostini Uovo raviolo, (a whole egg cooked inside ravioli with ricotta and showered in a lavish dusting of pecorino) remains one of the favourite bar snacks of nominators. Also, the rye and speck crostini (Daniel Costa’s ode to the Alto Adige region)—house-made ricotta and pork speck on crispy rye toast with Pink Lady apple and shaved Napa cabbage—is a standout among the many wine-friendly plates served at Bar Bricco.
9. Bündok’s Chicken Skin, the Gnocchi and Sea Bream Crudo “The fried chicken skin is a delicious snack.” Nominators also loved the Gnocchi Parisienne and the Parmigiano soup with peas and bacon. The sea bream crudo with Thai basil and chili remains a favourite of nominators.
10. Biera’s Sourdough Nuggets and Blooming Mushroom “Nuggets of their signature sourdough bread with cheese to dip! Just divine. The mushrooms are deep fried to perfection with an aioli that I dream about. I would go every single weekend for these two dishes if I could,” says Debbie Wolf. Also, “the
8
Continued on next page
The Tomato | March April 2019 7
Top 100 continued from previous page
sunflower seed and rye risotto. Texture in the chew, that desirable crunch and finishing with the creamy sharpness of the cheese and horseradish combo. A must try!” Vanessa Goodall. And, of course, the Blind Enthusiasm beer.
11. Bar Clementine “Roger makes this ham and greens small plate that I lose sleep over,” says Juanita Roos. “Ham with swiss chard, brown butter, chicory, and fenugreek with toast.” Another example of how simple isn’t easy. And Bar C always does interesting things with oysters along with crafting great cocktails.
12. Glass Monkey’s House-made Sausages and the Pappardelle “A toothsome blend of delicately seasoned beef and pork, served slightly browned and crispy, yet still plump and juicy when you cut into them; with caramelized onions, a pepper relish and terrific mashed potatoes. A terrific comfort food dish, perfect anytime but especially on a cold Edmonton night,” says Darrell Lindstrom. Also, the pappardelle. “Savoury melt in your mouth deliciousness with amazing flavour,” says Adam Firth.
13. Wishbone’s Double Beef Burger
13
“With American cheese, pickles, iceberg, mayo, Dijon, all on a brioche bun, this burger doesn’t pull any punches and is just a downright, satisfying burger that doesn’t try to be anything more than a delicious burger. And that nappa cabbage salad too. Just get it, you’ll be happy you did.”
14. Otto Food and Drink’s Maple Sage Bratwurst “From the Otto Dog, using Sylvan Star smoked gouda, caraway and fresh garlic, to the crazy Thai Green Curry Chicken, Steven Furgiuele’s sausages run the gamut from traditional to wild and experimental,” says Ian Breitzke. “My most enjoyable though, is the maple sage bratwurst. It’s sweet, it’s savoury, it works as a breakfast sausage, or as part of a dinner at Otto. By the way, probably the sweetest owner (Ed Donszelmann) at this place too!” “Fresh and super creative, but most of all delicious. Two foods I don’t like, duck and potatoes, but the way chef Levi combines ingredients gives you the ultimate mix of savoury and spicy. This dish makes me wanna stay up late to drive across town for their late-night menu. The grilled octopus is like nothing else, it is tender and full of flavor, made with chef Levi’s four-year old house made kimchi, it’s incredible and looks as amazing as it tastes. A must try for everyone.”
16. Wilfred’s Kale and Crispy Quinoa Salad This charming spot makes a really good kale salad. What makes it so great? The tangy green goddess dressing, the sesame seeds and the crunchy quinoa, along with that virtuous feeling you get when you eat something healthy and delicious. Also the Wilfred’s burger with white cheddar is very tasty and sharable.
16
17. FanFan’s Belgian Chocolate Gelato Wendy Toye is a fan and it “reminds me of my trip to Italy,” says Denis Sliva. “The flavour and texture of this gelato is perfect. Well-balanced, not overwhelmingly chocolatey. The technique that goes into this is amazing,” says Richard Toll.
18. Woodwork Butcher’s Cut “The bone-in rib eye is amazing,” says Kelsey Roos and Ramon Miranda. The cocktails always clever and tasty and the charred brussels sprouts suberb, deeply smoky and full of flavour.
19. Pip’s Braised Beef and the Fried Cheese “The braise on this beef is perfect. Not only is it moist, but the meat still maintains a beautiful chew. The risotto and carrots are solid additions, but the beef is the star of the show. Multiple visits and it was spot on each time,” says Steven Furgiuele. Also, the fried cheese is the most perfect thing to have with a glass of wine from their short but sweet wine list of primarily small family producers.
24
8 March April 2019 | The Tomato
Shaun Hicks photo
15. Why Not Café Salmon Poke and the Duck Tots
20. Meuwly’s Honey Ham “It is the darned best ham that I have eaten in my life, and I have eaten many a ham,” says Krista Meyerink. “It is such a treat to have at Thanksgiving, Christmas, or any other ham-filled holiday. If you are lucky, you can also sometimes get this ham from Meuwly’s sandwich counter, sandwiched between two crusty slices of baguette and complimented with tiny house-made pickles and mustard. Meuwly’s hams are so good because they source their pork from places like Bear and the Flower farm, where pigs get plenty of time to enjoy the good life outdoors. The ham is aged for something like 16 months, making it even more flavourful. Plus, it’s not injected full of salt water or other fillers, making every bite a hammy delight.”
Shaun Hicks photo
21. Rosso Pizzeria’s Potato Pizza There is a lot of pizza on this year’s Top100 and Rosso comes out on top, due to the wood-fired oven and that amazingly chewy flavourful crust. Nominators chose the Patate e Pancetta with sliced potato and Gorgonzola, the Rosso with Taleggio and soppressata and the Margherita as their top pizzas. As well, the Rucola is no slouch for those wanting a pizza without meat.
22. Drift Food Truck Fries 26
“They are the best fries to come out of a food truck. A fry seasoned with Drift spice and dipped in the fresh-tasting Drift ketchup is a trifecta of flavour,” says Mary St. GermainBrown. Nominators also loved the buttermilk fried chicken and their burger.
23. Prairie Noodle’s Smoked Gouda Ramen “My favourite food in Edmonton, and all of Alberta! The balance of flavours in the house-made vegetable miso broth are so unbelievably delicious. The Sylvan Star smoked gouda is the perfect addition of flavour and gooey-ness. The crunchiness of the vegetables contribute to the perfect mouth feel. Add roasted garlic and chili oil, and, well, it’s heaven. Totally crave-worthy. I could eat this every day and never tire of it,” says Laura Fraser.
24. Hardware Grill’s Sea Bass “It’s a beautiful fresh seafood dish served in the middle of Alberta. Top notch, five stars!” says Shane Thomas. “The carpaccio is always prepared perfectly,” says Cindy Berg. “The parmesan petals, sauce and house-made chips compliment the tender beef. My favorite indulgence.”
25. Café Leva’s Margherita Pizza The classic Margherita with basil and bocconcini is always a treat and this style is thin enough to fold like a NYC slice.
26. Wilfred’s Lamplighter Cocktail 32
“This cocktail has to be the most balanced, flavourful and delicate cocktail I’ve ever had in Edmonton. The combination of Irish whiskey, apricot, verjus and vanilla is masterful,” Chris Krock.
27. Café Linnea’s Gravlax and the Toast Soldiers There is lots to love at Café Linnea, but nominators settled on the house-cured salmon with pickled shallot, crème fraîche and grated horseradish on a potato beet pancake. Refreshing! The toast soldiers were also a favourite of many nominators.
28. London Local’s Brisket Burger and the Scotch Egg London Local tops their brisket burger with house-made leek and garlic aioli, relish and their version of HP sauce. Delish. “The London local scotch egg is a classic interpretation of the English dish made with local ingredients. Great ambiance at the bar, and I have absolutely loved the enthusiasm and personality of chef/owner Lindsey Porter. A great place to have in our suburban neighbourhood,” says Cindy GangeHarris. And, the fish and chips are “super fresh, light and every dip and sauce is made in house.”
29. Zwick’s Pretzel’s McZwick Sandwichzel “This is honestly the best sandwich I have ever eaten. In the words of Guy Fieri, your first bite of the McZwick is truly a one-way ticket to flavour town,” says Rachel Mackenzie.
36 Continued on next page
The Tomato | March April 2019 9
Top 100 continued from previous page
the fennel fronds.” “The polenta fritta is divine,” says Alysha Evans. “From the spicy kick of the salami, to the smooth subtlety of the aioli, and the crunch and salty pop of the polenta itself.”
30. Tokiwa Ramen’s Goma Goma Ramen
38. Cilantro and Chive’s (Lacombe) Duck Wings
The Goma Goma with sesame and miso was the dish most mentioned from Tokiwa. We think it’s all about the broth and order the spicy Goma Goma every time there are sniffles coming on. The Yuzo Shio (citrusy chicken broth-based soup) is also popular with nominators.
39. Green Onion Cake Man’s Green Onion Cake
31. Seoul Fried Chicken’s OG Fried Chicken Hard to choose which chicken at SFC, but the OG is the standard by which several nominators judge fried chicken. “Crispy and tons of flavour, but not greasy.” The Cilantro Lime, GP Cheese and Korean BBQ also got noms.
32. Juniper Café’s Breakfast Bowl and the Handheld Bennie “It is always so fresh, full of veggies and with a delicious lemony aioli,” Kaylea Salamon. Nominators also love Juniper’s handheld bennie, calling it filling, healthy and delicious.
33. A Cappella Curbside’s Austin Brisket Sandwich “Because of its delicious woody smoked flavour. It’s on a fresh bun with the perfect amount of sauce that sumptuously compliments the meat. Yum!” Margo Joly-Buehrer.
34. Northern Chicken’s Fried Chicken “It is the tastiest thing I’ve eaten all year. I like it in the restaurant. I like it as take out and I even love it as leftovers the next day. I don’t know if there is ever a time when I’m not looking to get some of this chicken. I dream about it at night,” says Andy Hansen. “It feels weird that I even have to explain this, seriously, like have you ever put something in your mouth that tasted so good that you required more? These guys are f%&*@*g wizards, and not only with chicken! One of the best local beer selections in the city. Don’t like beer? Well, they have a wizard making custom drinks there too. If there is a wizard award you should give them that. Contest over,” says Sandy Lugar.
35. Shanghai Grill Dumplings Delicious pan fried or steamed dumplings and xiao long bao are available at this restaurant, tucked away in a strip mall next to Job Site Workwear. “Especially love the classic pork dumpling, delicate flavours, with really good pastry.”
36. Farrow’s Grick Middle Sandwich “Everything about the sandwich is perfect,” Ian Wiebe.
37. Cibo’s Polpo and Polenta Fritta “Perfection,” says Maria Jackson. “This dish is so different, incredibly delicious. The charred octopus has a smoky flavour, balanced by the earthy chickpeas and freshness of
39
10 March April 2019 | The Tomato
“Salty, savoury and a must try,” said Carl Hughes. We agree! Sui To is back with a new spot. As much as we miss his Noodle Maker restaurant, the green onion cakes and the hot and sour soup here are a terrific consolation. “This guy started the whole green onion cake craze,” said one nominator.
40. Lock Stock’s Ham and Cheese Tartine Among the many offerings at Lock Stock—the Ace Coffee, the carrot cake with the frosting in the middle, and the variety of beautiful pastry, all done in house—is the ham and cheese tartine slice—a big hit for lovers of savoury in the morning.
41. Formosa Bistro Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup “So hearty and delicious,” said one nominator.
42. Shangahi 456 Soup Dumplings The xiao long bao and wor tip (fried beef dumplings) are still some of the best dumplings in town.
43. Coriander Cuisine Naan “Their naan, made in their own clay tandoor oven, is by far the best I have ever tasted, anywhere,” Jeanette Buckingham. Coriander opened at the end of 2018 and has delicious Indian food.
44. Kanto 98 Lugaw “This Filipino congee is comfort food to the max and perfect for Edmonton’s cold winter months,” says Cindy Nguyen.
45. Partake’s Croque Mon‘soubise’ Sandwich “Best ham and cheese sandwich you’ll ever eat. They use gruyère and Meuwly’s smoked honey ham. Haven’t talked to one person that has said differently.”
46. Yiannis Taverna’s Ouzo Prawns and the Greek-style Ribs The decadent ouzo prawns were most mentioned by nominators. Also, the Greek-style ribs. “Most delectable and perfectly prepared meal that I’ve encountered in my foodie experiences,” says Todd Williams. “It seems odd to mention this dish in isolation to the rest of what this restaurant has to offer (the slow roasted lamb gets honourable mention). Quite simply, the best Greek restaurant that I’ve been to both in and outside of Greece. Trust me, I’ve spent a fair amount of time there.”
47
47. Tzin’s Bacon with Apple Compote Such a delicious savoury sweet bite to have with a glass of wine.
48. Big G’s Jerky “Big G works hard to create an excellent product; you can tell it’s his passion. Very professional. Different flavours than the conventional jerky.”
49. The Local Omnivore’s Brisket Burger
eat. They only bake them on Saturday and the price is reasonable,” says David Bourne.
58. Mini Kitchen Samosas “So delicious. Best vegan samosas—I have not been able to find any better. Even my meat-eating pals love them!” Andrea Turner
59. Cartago’s Curry Wurst with Spätzle and the Dancing Queen
This deeply-flavoured burger, served on a brioche bun with their special sauce and house-made pickles, joins a long list of burgers nominated this year.
“Because it’s a unique dish you can’t find anywhere else and it’s sinfully saucy,” says Ryan Marshall. And, try the Dancing Queen cocktail, described as “scintillating” by a nominator.
50. Swiss 2 Go Sandwiches
60. XO Bistro + Bar’s Oxtail Fries
“By far the best sandwiches ever made. The meat, the cheese, the fresh-made pretzel bun,” Sean Boychuk. The Italian Bride and the Heidi vegetarian were most mentioned by nominators.
51. Pampa’s Brazilian Cheese bread and Rumpsteak “They are delicious, best in Canada, addicting,” Susana S. Simon.
52. Brown Butter Café’s Good Morning Bunwich “Hands down the best breakfast bunwich I have ever eaten. The sweet bun goes so well with the perfectly cooked eggs, cheese, pickled onions and avocados,” Dustin Ouellette.
53. Ávila Arepa’s Pabellón Arepa
“Done to perfection,” says Marie Lam.
61. Honest Dumpling’s Butter Chicken Dumplings “Eating these reminds me of my childhood but are also great because the fillings are so inventive—a great taste in every bite,” says Judy Parr.
62. DOSC’s Smoked Old Fashioned “Although not on the menu at the time, the very nice bartender made me a Smoked Old Fashioned upon request, and it was one of the best I have ever had,” says Sandra Keating. “Other servers gathered around to watch the event.” The oxtail poutine is also worth your consideration.
The toothsome South American sandwiches called arepa are similar to a soft pita, split, and filled with delicious things. “The pabellón has the best combination of tropical flavours with sweet plantains, pulled beef, cheese and black beans in this perfect glutenfree corn patty. Thumbs up.”
63. Tiramisu Bistro’s Kale Salad
54. South Island Pie Company Pies
65. LovePizza’s Ode to Ukraine Pizza
“All their pies deserve to be in the top 100,” says Danielle Batters. “But the Old Faithful is my favorite, hot or cold.” Peggie MacKay nominates the Scarfie meat pie, “flavourful, tender flaky pastry, good-sized chunks of steak with the right amount of gravy and the ale is present but not overwhelming.”
55. Wilfred’s Avocado Toast “Because it’s the best avocado toast I’ve ever had in Canada or the USA,” says Nadia Aldea.
56. Happy Camel’s Roasted Garlic Hummus and Za’atar Chips “The flavour is out of this world. The right amount of garlic that leaves you craving more, and, paired with the chips, it is a match made in foodie heaven,” says Jaelyn Ryan. “This is why I don’t make hummus anymore,” said another nominator.
57. Breadland’s Baguette
“They do something magic with kale and turn it into this extraordinary salad that I would kill for,” says Terry Dejong. “Add some freshly sliced avocado and it’s heaven on a plate. No wonder they run out of it as often as they do.” “The base sauce is delicious. The textures, taste and aroma create a splendid amalgamation of flavour and a visual delight,” says Mary Murphy.
66. The Italian Centre Shop Sandwich A perennial favourite, and not just with firemen and football fans. Think Avjar spread, a slick of olive oil with dried oregano, provolone and layers of mortadella and other deli meats on a baguette-style bun. It’s even tastier if you allow the flavours to meld for 15 minutes at room temperature.
67. Canova’s Panettone “Local bakery Canova has dived into the Italian sweet bread business, making both the Christmas panettone and the Easter colombe (shaped like a dove). The breads are delicious, plain, toasted or made into bread pudding.
“I used to live in Paris, and this is the only baguette in Edmonton that a Parisian would
66
Please see “Top 100” on page 26
67
The Tomato | March April 2019 11
Wine Maven
Francesco Ricasoli, the baron of Barone Ricasoli
“Many people are watching the Chianti Classico; this is where the Sangiovese of the future will be,” says Francesco Ricasoli, of Barone Ricasoli. He’s talking about the extensive work the family is doing in their vineyards at Castello Brolio, identifying zones, classifying soils, paying attention to the difference, and finding the absolute best sites within. “We will release two more cru (single vineyard wines) at Vin Italy this year,” he says, over lunch at Vaticano. We tasted several wines, including the surprising 2015 Torricella, a weighty and tasty Chardonnay with 20 per cent Sauvignon Blanc; the 2015 Castello Brolio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, a superb blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot (firm tannins, with some delicious secondary notes); the single vineyard 2015 Colledilà Gran Selezione Cru (complex, rich and rewarding) and the 2013 Casalferro Merlot, a little softer, lots of berry fruit and drinking well now.
12 March April 2019 | The Tomato
Mary Bailey Adrian Baker, the general manager and head winemaker at O’Rourke Family Vineyards met us at the tasting room of O’Rourke’s Peak Cellars (formerly The Chase Wines). We were going to check out the caves that O’Rourke has been tunnelling into a massive granite boulder in Lake Country, north of Kelowna. Adrian, an affable New Zealander, took us through part of the 300 metre long system to a table set up with several bottles. The caves will eventually hold barrels of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. “5609 square feet of barrel storage and some space for hospitality,” says Adrian. The wines destined for the caves are a dream at the moment. The Adrian Baker in the under-construction caves at O’Rourke Family Vineyards, Lake Country, project will not be finished for Okanagan Valley. several years. “I’m a huge believer in this property,” says Adrian. “The snow melts first here. It’s a hot zone in a cool region.” In the meantime, we tasted a racy and dry 2017 Riesling (lime, passion fruit, mineral). “The 2017 Pinot Gris is barrel fermented to get some weight, some texture,” says Adrian. The 2017 Gewurz (“I love making Gewurztraminer,” he says) has verbena at first, then the classic lychee notes. It’s fresh and elegant with a nice clean finish, if a tiny bit boozy (hot year). These wines are all from vines planted at the site in the past six years or so. “The humidity in the caves is about 90 in the summer and about 65 in the winter, says Adrian. “We lose alcohol not water, so a wine could go into the caves at 14.1 ABV and end up at 13.8 which is great, more balanced and drinkable.” O’Rourke wines are available in BC only (for now). On your next trip to the valley, pop by the tasting room for lunch and enjoy incredible views over the lake.
EVENT CALENDAR WEDNESDAY, MARCH 6 Gerard Bertrand Wine Dinner Continental Treat, 780-433-7432
SUNDAY, MARCH 17 Sunday Supper Club: Dieu de Ciel Beer Dinner The Marc, 780-429-2828
FRIDAY, MARCH 22 Hops and Whisky Tasting Royal Glenora Club, Eventbrite
SATURDAY, MARCH 23 Chinook Arch Meadery Tasting Aligra, 780-483-1083
WEDNESDAY, APRIL 10 Jim Barry Wine Dinner DOSC, 780-450-0606
MONDAY, APRIL 15 Luigi Bosca Wine Dinner Revel Bistro and Bar, 587-524-3333
WEDNESDAY, APRIL 17 Several Rioja producers were in town for the Winefest event, and many stayed afterwards for tastings and dinners to let us know what’s happening in their corner of Spain. Toni Batet, the global export director of CVNE (140 years old this year) told a funny story about the name. The labels say CUNE, not CVNE. Apparently, the printer made this change because ‘no one can say cvna, you are better off with cune’. Apparently, the family agreed. Apocryphal or not, it’s a good story. Rioja is moving to a new classification system which involves putting the name of the village on labels (like Burgundy) to better communicate top vineyard sites. We won’t see this for a while yet as the Rioja aging system (aging both in barrel and in bottle, at the winery, allowing the wine to come to us when it’s ready to drink) stays the same. We tasted several wines from CVNE at a delicious dinner at Wishbone. Highlights were the delish 2017 Monopole Viura (dry and savoury, just the wine to have with seafood); the 2016 Crianza (fruity and fresh, with delicious peppy acidity) and the 2014 Imperial Reserva, a profound wine displaying all the characteristics we look for in great Rioja—impeccable balance, silky tannins, and lovely flavours of woodsy forest floor, balsamic and cloves, with a lingering finish. The 1994 was served at the 2004 wedding of the king of Spain.
Easter Wines and How to Pair Them with Your Spring Feast Aligra, 780-483-1083
WEDNESDAY, APRIL 17 Paul Jaboulet Wine Dinner Café Linnea, 780-758-1160
WEDNESDAY, APRIL 17 Little Engine Wine Dinner La Ronde, 780-420-8366
THURSDAY, APRIL 25 Hot Chefs Cool Beats Mosaic Centre, hotchefscoolbeats.ca
DATE TBA Find these wines at better wine shops. Or, use the search feature at Liquor Connect, liquorconnect.com.
Farm to Table Dinner with Lake Side Dairy and First Choice Cellars XIX, 780-395-1119
Left, Tony Batet (CVNE) and Brayden Kozak (Wishbone).
The Tomato | March April 2019 13
Great pizza from a pre-made crust? That’s amore! Turn these quality local doughs into your own little kitchen secret Iain Ilich Making excellent pizza dough at home takes time, skill and patience. While it’s fun to be able to tinker and perfect your own from-scratch dough recipe over years of experimentation, even the most diehard bakers can find themselves wanting a shortcut in a pinch. Whether you’ve got last-minute guests coming over tomorrow night or you want to have something on hand in the freezer for the family, you don’t have to resort to popping an industrial rising-crust pepperoni pie in the oven. There’s a better way. The Italian Centre Shops and Bonjour Bakery have found the perfect middle road: handmade frozen pizza dough balls. They take care of the mixing, kneading and portioning, and you take care of forming it into a pizza, topping it and baking it. It’s like having an extra pair of expert hands in the kitchen, and an extra hour or two of prep time that you don’t have to budget for. The Italian Centre has been selling their balls of pizza dough to home cooks since 2013, which is long enough to become a well-known semi-secret in both Edmonton and Calgary pizza communities.
14 March April 2019 | The Tomato
Depending when you get to your local shop, you can find either fresh or frozen dough, sold in balls large enough to make one traditional-style Italian thin-crust pizza. All three Edmonton locations stock the dough, as does the Calgary shop, though fresh supply is limited to what they make that day. Too late for the day’s supply of fresh? Check the freezer for their four-packs of frozen dough balls. Just know that you’ll have to adjust your prep times to allow the dough to thaw before you use it. There’s an air of mystery to these dough balls, as there’s no information on the packaging to guide you in your pizza journey. There are no recommended baking times, temperatures or methods for how to turn the dough into supper. If you’re used to making and using your own pizza dough, you’ll know roughly what to do. But for first-timers, it can be daunting. To help clear up any confusion, our friends at the Italian Centre have provided their own recommended method to form the dough into pizzas at home. Clip out the method and stick it on your fridge, or take a photo to keep it handy for when you need it.
If you want to try the product before you buy a ball of fresh dough in a baggie, the dough used in the Italian Centre cafes to make their range of pizzas is the same dough they sell to customers. Between the shops, they go through hundreds of dough balls a day, yet they can still run out of the fresh stuff. It’s just that good. While you may not think of pizza when you think traditional French bakery, Strathcona’s Bonjour Bakery has their own unique take on pizza dough. Vive la différence! Bonjour sells its dough frozen in bags, each weighing around 500 grams. While the dough costs more than at the Italian Centre, you’re also getting twice as much, so the price is comparable. It’s a different type of dough, with a different taste profile that bakes up beautifully and can handle loads of toppings. There’s enough dough in each bag to make either one thick-crust 12-inch pizza or two thinner-style pizzas like you’d get by using the Italian Centre dough. The process for turning the dough into a pizza is much the same as with the Italian Centre dough. See below for the method.
Quick Tips for Working with Fresh and Frozen Dough At the Italian Centre, you can buy your dough balls either fresh or frozen, depending on what’s available. They’re both the same, though the frozen dough needs to thaw before it can be used.
If you’ve bought fresh dough in baggies, you can either use the dough right away (or within a few days if you keep it in the fridge), or you can pop it into the freezer in the individual baggies for later use. If you bought your dough as a multi-pack of frozen balls, lightly oil some ziplock bags, place one frozen ball of dough in each, then keep them in the freezer until you’re ready to use them. If you’re starting with frozen dough (either from the Italian Centre or Bonjour Bakery), transfer it from the freezer to the fridge in the plastic baggie. You’ll need to do this the night before you want to make pizza to give it time to thaw.
Making Pizza with Italian Centre Shop’s Dough
Angelo’s Favourite Pizza Toppings
This is the basic method for using the fresh dough from the Italian Centre Shops, straight from South Side store manager Camilla Tagliente. Camilla and the bakery manager Angelo Antonucci share their favourite pizza topping combinations.
• Pavoncella Italian plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped
Dust your tabletop and hands with flour. Take the dough from the bag by ripping the bag open and turning the dough ball out onto the floured tabletop. Shape into the desired size by using a rolling pin and/or your hands. Ensure the table and hands are well floured. Suggested size is 10-12 inches for a thincrust pizza. For traditional Italian thin crust pizza, add toppings and go to step. Or, for a thick crust pizza (you may need to combine 2 balls of dough), lightly dust the top with flour and gently cover the dough round with a clean tea towel. Let rest for 15 mins, then add toppings.
• garlic • salt • dry oregano • fi or di latte mozzarella (fresh mozzarella or buffalo mozzarella) • fresh basil • extra virgin olive oil
Make the pizza sauce by combining the tomatoes, garlic, salt and oregano. Top the dough with the sauce, then top with cheese. Bake as per the Italian Centre dough instructions, then garnish with fresh basil and drizzle with your favorite extra virgin olive oil.
Method for making pizza from Bonjour Bakery’s dough
Bake for 10 minutes at 400ºF, or for longer if you like it crispy. For the thicker pizza, bake for 20 minutes or to desired crispiness. Ovens vary, so that may change the cooking time.
Because there’s about twice as much dough in the bag from Bonjour, you can choose to either use it all for one delicious thick-crust pizza, or split it into two balls once it’s thawed and make it into two thin-crust pizzas. The cooking times below assume you’re making a single pizza with one bag of dough.
Camilla’s Favourite Pizza Toppings
Transfer the dough from the freezer to the fridge the day before you want to make the pizza. Keep it in the plastic bag.
• tomato sauce (strained or Pavoncella Italian plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped) • anchovies • capers • olives (black or kalamata) • tomatoes (fresh cherry or sundried) • fresh garlic • fior di latte (fresh mozzarella) • fresh Italian parsley for garnish • chili flakes (optional)
Put the above ingredients on the pizza as is and bake it, then garnish with parsley after baking. Or, sauté the above ingredients in a skillet with extra virgin olive oil as a sauce, then put on your pizza dough, add the mozzarella and bake. Garnish with the parsley. Either way, delicious!
|
On baking day, take the dough out of the plastic bag and set it on a lightly oiled patch of counter for 30 minutes to let it warm up. (If you’re going to split the batch into two balls for smaller pizzas, do it before the rest on the counter.) Form the dough into a pizza roughly 12-inches across, and place it in an oiled pizza pan, then let it rise again for another 30 minutes before topping and baking. Bake in the oven at 425ºF for around 20-25 minutes. Your oven may vary. The more and heavier toppings you add, the longer it will take to cook.
Iain Ilich has been writing about food for more than a decade for the Edmonton Journal, Calgary Herald, Dose and Vue Weekly. He also blogs about curious grocery items at nearof.com. His go-to homemade pizza is Margherita, but he’s also a shameless Hawaiian apologist.
The Tomato | March April 2019 15
AGING GRACEFULLY • CURTIS COMEAU •
16 March April 2019 | The Tomato
Local Seasonal Organic Sustainable •
•
•
Discover Vitaliteas Fanta Camara is your local tea entrepreneur. Available locally at several cafés, and from Sysco Edmonton, Galimax Trading Inc., Mo-Na Food Distributors and at the Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market. “Thank you for supporting local.”
—Fanta
Charcuterie was a French word that gained popularity in the middle ages to refer to cured pork products that would last without the means of refrigeration. However today, the word charcuterie refers to an artisanal way of preparing various meats. Although pork products still tend to dominate the cured meat realm, poultry, beef and seafood are becoming more prevalent. One thing that has changed very little over time is the method of preparation. These are the processes of preservation— brining, fermentation, drying and ripening which combine to remove moisture from the meats, often done by using the world’s oldest preservative— salt, along with various spices, sugars and or smoking—along with time. Facing page: assorted charcuterie at Meuwly’s. Above: Will Kotowicz with a side of pork. Meuwly’s orders whole animals from a variety of local producers, including Bear and the Flower.
“How to best cure charcuterie meat is a complex and open-ended question because the variables are endless, but it all starts with a high quality meat selection.” says Meuwly’s charcuterie master Will Kotowicz. Meuwly’s brings in whole animals to create their products and Will just so happened to be getting a delivery of several massive fresh sides of pork the day I visited him for the story. As Will moved around a fresh 110 lb side of pork, I ask him to pause and pose with one of the sides for a photo. Will points out that, in addition to several fermentation and curing variables, the diet of the animal is very important consideration, often overlooked by many. “The diet of an animal will change the consistency of its fat. Depending on what the animal eats, they may produce a softer fat that Continued on next page.
780.461.3176 • Making great tea since 1999 • vitalities.ca
Chocolate ganache... & praline tart with raspberries?
Whatever you’re having...
We’ve Got a Wine for That!
West Edmonton Mall • Entrance 58
780.483.103 • www.aligrawineandspirits.com
@Aligrawine facebook.com/aligrawine
The Tomato | March April 2019 17
18 March April 2019 | The Tomato
Aging Gracefully Continued from previous page
can liquefy faster in the curing process. In this case we would use that pork in cured whole muscles like prosciutto, where soft fat is desirable. Other farms we work with produce meat with a firmer fat, which is perfect for dry-cured salami or smoked bacon.” While the people at Meuwly’s truly are the masters when it comes to curing meat there are a small handful of chefs in the city who are making their own small batch charcuterie as well. Cibo Bistro’s chef Rosario Caputo cures his own Italian salumi. “For as long as I can remember curing meats has been done by my family,” he says. “My grandfather built a garage out of concrete so it stayed cool and in spring he used to hang prosciutto and salumi right over his T-bird car. Obviously, I don’t cure my salumi in a garage but I certainly love making it with traditional methods for my guests.” This past July Rosario served a Mangalitsa prosciutto that he had been aging for three years. It sold out in one week. Workshop Eatery’s chef de cuisine Nic Barron has started to do some small batch curing. “I want to explore the depth of flavour that can be achieved by using parts of an animal that are typically discarded in most kitchens, like the jowl and neck. I am also curing duck from Four Whistle Farms and beef from Lake Side Dairy.” Curtis Comeau likes his pastrami with hot mustard.
PETER FROM MEUWLY’S TALKS CHARCUTERIE There are several different types of cured meats that fall under the broader term charcuterie. General catagories are based on the method of preparation and what part of the animal is being used The artisan processes we use are the oldfashioned processes which take time. The reward is complexity in flavour Facing page, top left: Rosario Caputo, executive chef/owner, Cibo Bistro with salumi. Top right, Nic Barron, chef de cuisine at Workshop, holding a pancetta (pork belly). Bottom, Peter Keith, Meuwly’s, in the aging room.
and appealing textures. The creativity comes from the overlap of different techniques, what additional flavourings may be used and whether or not the item is fermented. It takes time to build complex flavours. Cured and air dried Prosciutto such as Parma ham; culatello, coppa, lomo/lonza (cure pork loin) guanciale (cheek or jowl). Bresaola is salted and air dried—always beef, usually eye of round. Speck is pork. Brining Brining is used for things like ham or a turkey breast, where you are changing the texture and retaining moisture while adding flavour by using aromatic spices or honey in the brine.
CHEFSHERIDAN.COM | 780-554-0420 | INSTAGRAM @CHEFSHERIDAN
4 course in home dinner parties starting at $115 per person - includes hors deouvres and a wine pairing
Pastrami is beef brisket which is brined, then smoked. We use grass fed beef and Will has an amazing brine for pastrami. Smoked items: hot and cold There is overlap here, we might make coppa, then cold smoke and dry it three to four months. The buckboard bacon for example is cured with molasses added at that time, then hot smoked. Cooked (cotto) salami Cooked salami could be hot smoked or slow roasted, they are less expensive because there is less drying time. There are things like summer sausage, Krakowska, a Polish-style with lots of garlic and Thuringer sausage. Fermented Fermentation of meat is a precise science involving replacing spoilage bacteria with good bacteria in an environment with the correct temperature and humidity. Will is a walking encyclopedia when it comes to fermentation. It’s a lot more complicated and a lot can go wrong. You have to calibrate a lot of different things to get a complex flavour and the right texture. For example— the diameter makes a difference in the flavour; a long drying out period creates more complex flavours. A variety of sausages are fermented and they may be smoked as well. It was important for Meuwly’s not to be known as strictly an Italian (salumi) or German (wurst) or French (saucisson) house. Sometimes we put a spin on it, Continued on next page.
780-705-4928 12539-102 Avenue heartofthehomeyeg.ca
EDMONTON WINTER
SURVIVAL GUIDE
TIP TWELVE: A lazy day calls for a glass of Nerello Mascalese
11819 ST. ALBERT TRAIL SHERBROOKELIQUOR.COM
The Tomato | March April 2019 19
Aging Gracefully Continued from previous page
sometimes we stick to classics—Rosette de Lyon, hot soppressata, calabrese ferment. At any given time there will be three or four examples of this type of sausage in the case. Whole animal butchery is really important to the quality within the broader category of sausage. We cure whole muscles, then there is a lot of high-quality trim. You can’t just salt it and dry it out. Mortadella, smokies and hot dogs are emulsified to create the texture. It costs more to make to make mortadella than it does to make the honey ham. It’s far from mystery meat. We have 20 different of this type of sausage in rotation—bratwurst , chorizo, maple breakfast, Italian, andouille. We made one with Chinese black vinegar and charred green onion, like having dim sum.
CHOOSING ITEMS FOR A CHARCUTERIE BOARD? “Think first about flavour, says Peter. “If you have a spicy soppressata you might want to have something a bit milder like garlic sausage to go with it. Also think about the texture and presentation on the board. Balance out the saltiness as well. If you have too many meats that are high in salt the board can be overwhelming. We are happy to help guide people through choosing items for their boards as well as well as suggest cheeses and accompaniments.”
THE EXTRAS Recipes for delicious things to help make your charcuterie board shine.
Meuwly’s Sweet Pickle Brine 300 g
white wine vinegar
175 g white wine (any variety will do) 500 g
water
25 g
white sugar
5 g salt (add more to taste if desired)
Nic Barron (Workshop Eatery) holds a charcuterie board.
20 March April 2019 | The Tomato
onions or shallots, hot peppers, fennel, anything with enough flavour to stand up to the sweetness
To make quick pickles: Combine all ingredients and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Pour over thinly-sliced vegetables and chill immediately. Store in the refrigerator and use within one week.
Meuwly’s Cranberry Mustard One of our most popular items sold at Meuwly’s, simplified to make at home. –Peter Keith 300 g yellow mustard seeds 100 g white wine (any variety will do) 200 g cider vinegar 125 g white sugar 25 g
sea salt
150 g
cranberry juice
30 g
hot mustard powder
baking dish and cover with foil; roast until tender, 1-1½ hours. (Or, use your preferred method to roast beets.) When cool enough to handle, peel and roughly chop. Transfer to a food processor; pulse until finely chopped, but not pureed. Place in a bowl and stir in vinegar, half the orange zest. Season to taste. Serve on endive leaves with a dollop of yogurt, cilantro leaves and remaining zest.
Herbed Celery and Bulgur Salad The chewy bulgur, along with the crunch of the nuts and pomegranate seeds and the freshness of the herbs is a tasty accompaniment to preserved meats. 100 g
bulgur wheat
½ bunch celery, separated, washed and trimmed, keep leaves
300 g dried cranberries, roughly chopped
1 sm
pink lady apple
juice 1 lemon
Soak mustard seeds in wine and vinegar—cover tightly and let sit at room temperature for at least 24 hours, longer if possible. (We age ours for about a month.)
2 T
olive oil
handful
t oasted hazelnuts, roughly chopped
Place soaked seeds and liquid in a pot with sugar, salt, and cranberry juice. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Once it is bubbling, reduce the heat to low and cook for about 20 minutes, stirring frequently.
lg handful pomegranate seeds (optional)
Blend the mustard with a hand blender until seeds are crushed to your desired consistency. Gradually add the mustard powder, blending constantly (otherwise it will form lumps in your mustard.) Stir in cranberries and allow to cool fully before use. Store in the refrigerator. Makes about 1 litre.
Put the bulgur wheat in a large bowl and just cover with boiling water. Cover the bowl and leave for 30 minutes to absorb all the water.
Beet Tartare The sweetness of the beets are a terrific foil for the bitterness of the endive. Adapted from a recipe in Saveur. This recipe is easily doubled. 2 med
beets scrubbed
2 T
olive oil
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 T
balsamic vinegar
zest of 1 orange
endive leaves, Greek yogurt and cilantro leaves, for serving
1 red chile, deseeded and chopped
“EASTER DOVE” A SWEET BREAD BORN OVER A CENTURY AGO IN MILAN, ITALY. Our artisan Colomba is lovingly handcrafted the traditional way. A natural yeast starter, candied orange peel and raisins, then topped with almonds and sugar. Each batch of the dove-shaped Easter confection takes 36 hours to make and marks the sign of Spring. Enjoy with fresh fruit, whipped cream or a glass sweet wine or prosecco.
AVAILABLE AT CANOVA PASTICCERIA AND ONLINE AT CANOVA.CA
celery leaves, chopped
handful parsley, chopped handful mint leaves, chopped handful fresh tarragon, chopped
Meanwhile, separate the sticks of celery and set the leaves aside. Very finely slice the celery and roughly chop the leaves. Cut the apple into fine matchsticks and toss in a little lemon juice. Make a simple dressing: whisk the remaining lemon juice with the oil and season to taste. Go easy on the salt as the meats will provide lots of salty flavour on the board. Gently fluff up the bulgur with a fork. Mix the sliced celery and apple through the bulgur, followed by the nuts, chile, pomegranate seeds and herbs. Drizzle over the dressing and toss everything together gently. Do not overmix. Place in a shallow bowl on the charcuterie board. Keeps for one week. Leftovers make a very nice lunch.
Heat oven to 400°F. Place beets, olive oil, salt, and pepper in a 8-inch square
The Tomato | March April 2019 21
Beer Guy Beer and Bud “It takes a lot of good weed to make great beer,” said Lagunitas Brewing founder Tony Magee. This was news to me. Maybe this is why my home brewing attempts back in the nineties never quite worked out. But my home brewing bible, Charlie Papazian’s 1984 classic, The Complete Joy of Homebrewing, doesn’t mention weed in all its 399 pages. Trust me, I checked. Or perhaps this is what Papazian means when he says, “Relax. Don’t worry. And have a homebrew.” The thing is, I’m a beer guy, not a weed guy. Sure, I inhaled back in university. I lived in a fraternity house, in a room previously occupied by two absolute stoners (high-functioning stoners—one became a lawyer, the other an engineer). When I moved in, I pulled out the deep shag carpet that went across the floor and up one wall. A friend suggested I cut the carpet into squares and smoke it, given the amount of pot spilled over the years. Long after moving in, people would clamber up the fire escape, bashing on my door looking for the previous occupants. “Is Dave here?” they’d ask. Re-enacting a Cheech & Chong sketch in real life, I’d reply, “Dave’s not here!” In 1986 I backpacked around Europe with that same friend with the carpetsmoking advice. At that time, the Netherlands led the world in terms of an enlightened approach to cannabis. Small amounts of marijuana were okay, and one could consume it at comfortable cafés. Consequently, our Amsterdam hostel was full of Americans and Brits on drug holidays, coming to town to get high, all day, every day. Honestly, my pal and I had zero interest in Mary Jane—we only had eyes for all the cool Dutch and Belgian beers around town. And touring the giant Heineken factory. Which brings us back to Tony Magee. From its start on Magee’s stovetop in 1993, Lagunitas has grown to become one of the biggest craft brewers, and in 2017, it was purchased by Heineken. Magee stayed on as chairman, one presumes, to keep Lagunitas true to its weed-laden heritage. In 1999 Lagunitas began weekly parties that started at 4:20
22 March April 2019 | The Tomato
pm in a taproom ventilated to clear the pot fumes. In 2001 Lagunitas had to change the name of their Kronic beer because of its weed reference. In 2005 federal agents raided one of the weekly parties and Lagunitas was lucky to escape intact. With legalization, Lagunitas turned it up a notch in 2018 becoming the first brewery to release a cannabis-enhanced beverage. Hi-Fi Hops is a zero-alcohol sparkling water drink, brewed with hops and enhanced with THC, the active ingredient in cannabis. It sounds dreadful, frankly, but Magee is convinced this is the future. Maybe he’s right. After all, hops and cannabis are cousins, from the cannabaceae family. Both share terpenes —essential oils—that give hops and cannabis their characteristic piney, citrusy, skunky, or earthy aromas. And, smoking remains socially unacceptable, so people are looking for another way to consume cannabis. A study by Deloitte found that more than 60 per cent of likely cannabis customers in Canada will choose to consume edible products—and that includes drinkables. Giant beer companies like Constellation Brands and Anheuser-Busch InBev are buying into Canadian cannabis companies to develop no-alcohol cannabis-infused drinks. Toronto’s Province Brands claims they have made the world’s first cannabis beer, brewed from the stalks, stem and roots of the cannabis plant. The initial result, they told The Guardian, was horrible, tasting like rotten broccoli. Not too enticing. But someone will figure it out and make something drinkable. Meanwhile, Tony Magee has tweaked his message. Scott Kendall, of Edmonton’s Bent Stick Brewing, told me that in Magee’s keynote speech to the Alberta Craft Brewing Convention in 2017, he said “It takes a lot of good people to make great beer.” I think we can all agree on that. It is unlikely regulators will ever allow adding cannabis to beer. But this hasn’t stopped brewers from experimenting with weed-related beers. Find these six beers at better beer stores in Edmonton and area.
Peter Bailey
Beer and Bud Six Pack Lagunitas IPA, Petaluma, CA First brewed in 1995, this iconic west coast American IPA has become the best-selling IPA in North America. Doing nothing simply or straight-ahead, Lagunitas claims this IPA is made with 43 different hops and 65 various malts. As it is brewed with 100 per cent Alberta barley from the Chinook Arch Growers cooperative, it almost counts as an Alberta beer.
Wild Rose High Harvest Hemp SPA, Calgary Wild Rose takes a unique approach to making a weedy beer, adding hemp flour to create what they call a strong pale ale, resembling a hazy North East-style IPA. The aroma is musty, weedy and piney, the flavour gently bitter with a touch of fruit and a undercurrent of funk.
www.themarc.ca
@themarcedmonton
Lost Coast Indica IPA, Eureka, CA The early ‘70s back-to-the-land movement saw hippies move north out of San Francisco to rural places like Humboldt County. Eventually Humboldt became the centre of U.S. marijuana cultivation. Quirky Humboldt was perfect for a pioneer microbrewery founded by two women in 1989. Indica is one of the main types of cannabis, so Indica IPA is a shout-out to Lost Coast’s neighbours.
Oskar Blues Pinner Throwback IPA, Longmont, CO Cannabis culture is intertwined with Colorado brewery Oskar Blues. Founder Dale Katechis has said that many of their beers are brewed with hops that are meant to give off an aroma of cannabis. This IPA takes it name from a pinner, a small, thin joint low on cannabis content, so apt for a session IPA with lower alcohol content. Piney citrusy aroma with a touch of orange in the taste.
Nelson Harvest Moon Hemp Cream Ale, Nelson, BC Nelson, British Columbia, could be considered the Humboldt county of Canada, the HQ of Canada’s illegal marijuana business. Harvest Moon is a nod to Nelson’s cannabis culture, a Kolsch-style ale brewed with organic barley malt, organic wheat and organic toasted hemp seeds. The addition of hemp adds a bit of nutty flavour to the beer.
You have great taste. Indulge it.
downtown Edmonton 10053 JASPER AVENUE 780.401.2222 UNIONBANKINN.COM
cheese • wine+beer • espresso
Bent Stick Art Teacher’s Office Dank IPA, Edmonton Released on October 17, 2018 to celebrate marijuana legalization in Canada, Bent Stick re-releases this ode to cannabis on 4/20 this year. The IPA contains no cannabis or hemp, instead it uses hops known for their resinous, cannabis-like properties. And to get a true dank character, Bent Stick intentionally skunked a small amount of the beer to add a bit of subtle funk. The name? A Simpsons’ reference. Peter Bailey knows the difference between THC and CBD but prefers products with ABV and IBUs. He’s on Twitter and Instagram as @Libarbarian
10169 - 104 street | 780.455.1336 | info@thecavern.ca | @CavernYEG
The Tomato | March April 2019 23
Ben Champoux photo
Gold medalist chef Yannick LaSalle is flanked by silver finalist chef Christopher Hill (left), and bronze winner chef Dave Bohati, (right).
Canada’s best compete in Kelowna
The 2019 Canadian Culinary Championships Kelowna was cold and grey this year, but the atmosphere inside the Delta Grande was warm and sunny. Chefs and sous, along with helpful students from Okanagan College’s Culinary Arts wrangled their way through three separate competitions while we judges, sequestered in quiet rooms, passed judgement on their efforts. It’s not something we take lightly. We know every chef has worked furiously to get to Kelowna and that they carry the dreams and aspirations of their kitchens and their communities. But, somebody has to place one, two and three and this year it was Yannick LaSalle, Christopher Hill and Dave Bohati. Our home town pride, Davina Moraiko of RGE RD, created a stellar final dish but it wasn’t quite enough to lift her on to the podium. Top: gold medal dish, silver left and bronze right.
24 March April 2019 | The Tomato
Congratulations to all the competitors.
Gold: Chef Yannick LaSalle, Les Fougeres, Chelsea, Quebec Chef Charles Part was in the stands at the Black Box competition this year. His shoulders appeared—to me anyway— mighty close to his ears as he watched his protégé, Yannick LaSalle, parade into the Okanagan College kitchen and meet the dreaded box. Was Part re-living the anxiety he had felt ten years before, when he had represented Ottawa at the same competition back in 2009? Probably. But for this judge, who had the privilege of seeing both these fine chefs compete ten years apart, it was a pleasure to witness the master watch the student. Particularly when they were representing a restaurant I’ve admired immensely, for all its three decades. Les Fougères is nestled in the woods of Chelsea, Quebec, across the Ottawa River and fifteen minutes up the
road from Parliament Hill. It is a national treasure, one that consistently, confidently puts Canada and the Capital Region on the plate in loving ways. LaSalle has helmed its stoves and tended its extensive gardens since 2015. His food is simple, thoughtful, and ingredient-proud, but there’s an alchemy of sensuality on his plates that was evident all weekend. It was a roller coaster ride for some chefs this year, winning one of the three CCC challenges, only to stumble dramatically at the next. LaSalle was steady. Placing consistently in the medals all weekend. And when the final numbers were crunched, he emerged our champion. Congratulations to him, to his team, and to the Les Fougères family. Anne DesBrisay, Ottawa-Gatineau judge Silver: Chef Chris Hill, Taste Restaurant Group, Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Judging by chef Chris Hill’s focused and stellar performance in Kelowna— Saskatoon’s first podium placement in the history of the CCC, and the highest podium placement for a Saskatchewan chef to date—it seems that opening three restaurants in Saskatoon in the last year has honed his skills to a fine point. Chris’ team of talented and devoted chefs relied on their longstanding working relationship to carry them through the grueling challenges of the weekend. They passed the test. They won the Mystery Wine Challenge with a braised pork belly, crisped and served with a squid ink agnolotti filled with a brandade of salted ling cod, potato and cream and finished with smoked tomato and brightly flavoured brunoise of fennel, celery and squash. In the Black Box competition, chef Hill and his sous chef made a handheld vegetarian taco that put all the ingredients to delicious use. He’s so pleased with the dish, you can now order a version of it at the restaurant. His finale dish, titled After the Fire was a beautifully balanced mix of textures, flavours and colours. Confit duck leg was rolled with wild boar sausage and served alongside an aerated foie gras that I remembered fondly from our first introduction at Saskatoon’s Kitchen Party. The galantine was nestled among savoury
vegetables and a beautifully cooked morel mushroom and decorated with (perfectly edible) crispy reindeer moss and a bitter salsify bark glazed with birch syrup. The wine, harvested in the midst of a smoky season in the Okanagan, paired deliciously with the smoke flavours as well as the juniper jus and sour cherry preserve that finished the dish. A delight to behold—and to savour. Noelle Chorney, Saskatchewan judge Bronze: Dave Bohati, Murrietas, Calgary Staring down a challenging Black Box of sweet potato, chestnuts, saffron, sheep yogurt, buckwheat, quince and lion’s mane mushrooms, chef Dave Bohati came to some quick decisions. With no protein on board, he focused on the savoury nature of the mushroom and the delicate sweetness of the potato. Knowing that his challenge was to transform each ingredient into something tasty and creative, he ground the buckwheat into a flour and shaped it into a tuile. The judges, entranced by the delicate interplay of the flavours and textures, awarded chef Bohati high marks.
artisan food market
charcuterie, sausages, & preserves The trusted charcuterie supplier for over 30 Edmonton restaurants our retail market is now open on 124th St!
587.786.3560 | www.meuwlys.com | 10706 124th St.
Bohati’s win in the Black Box, along with strong showings in the wine matching and gala events, carried him to the podium, earning him a bronze medal at the 2019 Canadian Culinary Championships. It was Bohati’s second visit to the event and he went home happy. And to a new job. Bohati had been head chef at Calgary’s Teatro for the past couple of years, outlining a new direction for the classic downtown restaurant. Now, he is executive chef for both the Calgary and Canmore Murrieta’s. Having started his restaurant career as a dishwasher in Victoria over twenty years ago, Bohati has risen to the top echelon of Canadian chefs. The highly tattooed chef is also looking to the future and contemplating his participation in competitive cooking. “Maybe it’s time to mentor some younger chefs to compete,” he says. “I’ve done a lot and I’d like to pass on my experiences.” Meanwhile he has to find a place to hang his latest accolade—his bronze medal.
hardware grill hardware grill hardware grill est. 1996
est. 1996
est. 1996
Edmonton’s original farm-to-table restaurant. Join us for dinner Monday-Saturday from 5pm. est. 1996
Korean Fried Cauliflower (KFC)
est. 1996
est. 1996
Charcuterie Plate
Crispy Pork Belly
DROP IN EARLY OR LATE. BEST SHAREABLES IN THE CITY hardwaregrill.com 780.423.0969 97 Street & Jasper Ave.
John Gilchrist, Calgary judge
The Tomato | March April 2019 25
Top 100 Continued from page 11
68. Jack’s Burger Shack Quebecer Burger The Quebecer with curds and ranch dressing received the most nominations but people also love the On the Cobb with blue cheese, bacon and fresh tomato relish and the ’Shroom with mushrooms and Boursin. Lots to love at Jack’s Burger Shack!
69. Continental Treat’s Dill Pickle Soup “It is delicious,” says Lisa Watson.
SAMPLING WINE EVERY SATURDAY (780) 439-9069 | colordevino.ca | 9606 82 Ave Edmonton
70. Nyonya Malaysian Cuisine’s Chicken Rendang Pancake Roll (City Hall Farmers’ Market) “Multiple layers of flavour and extremely delicious,” says Christina Janes.
71. Gramma Bears Butter Tart The best butter tart ever (and you will find it the Strathcona Farmers’ Market) is back on the Top 100. Yaay! That’s Harold and Evelyn in the photo below.
72. Urban Diner’s Rueben “It’s got pastrami, caramelized onions, and sauerkraut. It’s on toasted marble rye bread. It’s got curry Dijon aioli. You ever had curry Dijon aioli before? I never had. It changed my world,” Dwayne Otto.
73. Arno’s Ham and Cheese Croissant “The delicious cream sauce is a wonderful surprise on this sandwich and the croissant is unbelievable. Arnaud is a creative and talented genius—every single item I’ve tasted has been perfection and so enjoyable,” says Stephanie Trussell.
74. Meuwly’s Cranberry Sauce “Their cranberry sauce is insane! In a world of mundane cranberry sauce from the can, Meuwly’s cranberry sauce is a shining beacon of hope. It moistens dry turkey, is delicious on toast and even by the spoon. Filled with fruit and citrus and ginger flavours, it’s a must have for Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas and all days ending in y,” Alycia Fritze.
75. Sugared & Spiced’s Brownie “So chocolaty and gooey, it can’t be resisted,” says Emily Berthelot.
76. Ross Goodine’s Vegan Chocolate Ice Cream (Ottewell Farmers’ Market) “I think this is the best ice cream I have ever, ever had,” says Paul Lewis.
77. Täfeli’s Brownie Cookie This fairly new cookie shop in Riverbend makes great cookies. All butter and delicious. Nominators love the brownie cookie, the baker named Joy, as well as the shortbreads and spice cookie.
Opening Soon biancoeats.com
78. The Next Act’s PB&J Burger “While you could get the rotating cameo burger sandwich, changing weekly, the one mainstay in my life at the Next Act, is always gonna be a PB&J Burger,” says Ian Bretzke. “House-made beef patty, crunchy peanut butter, house-made bacon jam, cheddar cheese, with all the groceries. While PB on a burger might sound weird, it goes so so well with the bacon jam. It’s a sweet and salty, delicious dream. Pair it up with a palate cleansing Blindman Kettle Sour and you have a great meal, any time of the day.”
71
26 March April 2019 | The Tomato
79. Culina Mushroom Tourtière “It is easily the best thing I have eaten. The pastry was so flaky and the pie filling dense with deliciousness; each ingredient melding beautifully with the miso gravy,” says Marilyn Hooper. “My Montreal nephew who is a tourtière purist declared it deceit pie when it first hit the table but he loved it. It makes an impressive meal offering for your holiday table.”
80. Revolution Ice Cream Lemon Lavender and Chocolate “Complex, pleasing flavour and texture. John and Jessica’s creations are always very good,” says Mark Beattie. Lavender Lemon and the chocolate flavours were most nominated.
81. Edgar Farms’ Asparagus Every spring we get the treat of fresh Alberta-grown asparagus. It’s worth waiting all year.
82. La Poutine’s Canadian Poutine “It’s definitely the best poutine I have had outside of Quebec. They hand-cut the fries, use squeaky Quebec cheese curds—it’s a hot and gooey bit of heaven,” says Darlene Insley.
83. Confetti Sweets Choco Chunk “I would actually nominate all of their cookies but choco-chunk is my favourite with the chocolate coconut running a very close second,”says Pat MacKeage. “Soft, chewy and delectable. I defy you to find a better bakery cookie in our city. They unreservedly deserve a spot in your Top 100.”
BREAKFAST LUNCH DINNER COCKTAILS COFFEE WINE
84. The Glass Monkey’s Parsnip Puree “It’s rare to find a menu item that features parsnips. Spread on freshly-baked crostini and pair with a glass of Pinot Grigio, it sets the flavour mode on subtle and satisfying. Delicious. Also their pizza, and David Hamilton says their burger is one of the best,” Susan Bramm.
RISE EARLY STAY LATE • 10429 121 ST.
85. Al Salam Bakery’s Chicken Shawarma “This is the best chicken shawarma in the city, hands down,” says Gabrielle Donoff. “Always accompanied by fresh-out-of-the-oven pita, creamy garlic sauce, hummus, and a fresh and delicious fattoush salad.”
86. Loft Thai Eatery’s Green Curry “I love Thai green curry and have tried it at as many Thai restaurants in Edmonton as I can find. This is the best in the city by far. I could eat it every day,” says Stephanie Stolk.
87. Memphis Blues’ Collard Greens “Exquisite flavour. I could eat a bathtub full of this,” says Terry deJong.
88. La Pagode’s Beef Satay Soup “I have ordered beef satay soup from countless different restaurants and none even come close to being as good as La Pagode’s,” says Brandy Michell.
89. Workshop’s Peas and Carrot “This was my go-to dish over the summer,” says Cindy Gange Harris. “The pea guacamole was amazing and roasted heirloom carrot so sweet. I love that Workshop has its own garden adjacent to their patio in the summer. This place is a suburban gem.”
90. Chettinad Aachy’s Ulunthu Vada (savoury lentil doughnut) “The Ulunthu Vada is a marvel of taste, texture and history. Made with a myriad of warming and flavourful South Indian spices in a fermented lentil batter, it has depth, lightness and a fresh crispness to the exterior. Made with loving care by a wonderful family, an example of Edmonton’s rich diversity,” Stephen Kozma.
91. Persian Delights Bread “This bread is unique, there is nothing like it in the city. I’d say it’s a cross between a pretzel and a brioche. It’s amazing,” Sonia Gonzalez.
R E L E A S E T H E F L AV O U R
92. Milk and Cookies Bakeshop Vanilla Sprinkle Sandwich Cookie “I love, love, love the sandwich cookies—just the right amount of chewy and the buttercream is not too sweet,” Natalie Fairbridge.
ST ALBERT
D I N E N I N E T E E N .CO M
T E RW I L L E GA R
78 0 . 5 69. 1 8 19
I N FO@D I N E N I N E TE E N .CO M
78 0 . 3 95 . 1 1 19
Please see “Top 100” on page 29
The Tomato | March April 2019 27
Kitchen Sink restaurant buzz Don’t miss Downtown Dining Week, from March 8-17. There are over 50 restos signed up for the annual event, offering a two-course lunch for $18, brunch for $18 and three course dinners for $30 and $45. The Cavern, The Marc, Hardware Gill, Madison’s, Wishbone, Pampa and Sabor have great menus to choose from and there are two special events at Kitchen as well as a cookbook sale at Audrey’s. All the info is at edmontondowntown.com. Check it out! Join the Culina Catering Club—three four-course dinners for eight people. It also includes a one-hour consultation, delivery and set up (within the city); wine suggestions by Color de Vino; a dinner party playlist; 10 per cent off rentals (glassware, plateware, flatware and linens) and 10 per cent off a Culina to Go VIP client card. What a way to simplify entertaining. Visit culinafamily. com/culina-catering-club for more info and to book. During early spring The Butternut Tree (9707 110 Street, 780-760-2271, thebutternuttree.ca) will explore the early stages of growth, the shoots, leaves and blossoms, in a series of multi-course dinners. Their idea with these ultraseasonal tasting menus is to introduce guests to a one-of-a-kind experience that creates a true sense of time and place. Watch their website for more info.
wine tastings happenings and events Enjoy a wine dinner at the Continental Treat (10560 82 Avenue, 780-433-7432, ctfinebistro.com) with special guest Nicolas Joly from the French house Gérard Bertrand, Wednesday, March 6, 6:30pm. Five wines, four courses, $125/ p+. Call to book. On Thursday, March 7, Nicolas Joly of Gérard Bertrand will be the special guest at a NAIT wine dinner at Ernest’s (10701 118 Avenue, 780-471-8676, nait. ca). Enjoy four courses paired with four wines, 6pm reception, $112/p. Book at nait.ca/ernests-events.com.
28 March April 2019 | The Tomato
what’s new and notable The Marc’s (9940 106 Street, 780-4292828, themarc.ca) Sunday Supper series continues on Sunday, March 17, with a beer dinner featuring Dieu de Ciel. Call the Marc for details. Meet proprietors Steven and Nicole French of Naramata Bench winery Little Engine at a wine dinner at La Ronde (10111 Bellamy Hill, 780-420-8366, chateaulacombe.com) Wednesday, April 17. Enjoy six wines paired with five courses. Tix: $150/p, call 780-420-8366. The Hops and Whisky event returns to the Royal Glenora Club (11160 River Valley Road) Friday, March 22, 6:30pm. Events include two master classes (separately ticketed) live music and good food. Proceeds to Nina Haggerty Centre for the Arts. Tix, $89/++, Eventbrite. Upcoming tastings at Aligra (8882 170 Street, 780-483-1083, aligrawineandspirits.com). Chinook Arch Meadery from Okotoks will be sampling their award-winning meads Saturday, March 23, from 2-5pm. Easter Wines and How to Pair Them with Your Spring Feast Tasting, Wednesday, April 17, 7pm, $20. Visit Aligra’s website to book. Enjoy another Run and Brunch at XIX St. Albert (150 Bellerose Drive) March 2, 9am. Tix: $35/p, events. runningroom.com. On Wednesday, April 10, meet Emma Shaw from Australia’s Jim Barry Wines at a wine dinner at DOSC (10190 104 Street, 780-540-0606, dosc.ca). Four wines, four courses, 6:30pm, $89/p++. Call to book. Enjoy the sunny flavours of Argentina at the Luigi Bosca Wine Dinner Monday, April 15, at Revel Bistro and Bar (9802 Jasper Avenue, 587-524-3333, reveledmonton.com) with Gabriela Millan export director. Five wines with four courses, 6pm, $95/p++. Email manager@reveledmonton.com to book. Adrien Laurent from Rhône producer Paul Jaboulet will be at Café Linnea (10932 119 Street, 780-758-1160,
cafelinnea.ca) for a wine dinner on Wednesday, April 17, starting at 6pm. Expect four delicious courses with five wines, $95/p++, book on Open Table. Hot Chefs Cool Beats! is back, Thursday, April 25, 6:30pm, at the Mosaic Centre (2003 92 Street SW) Taste some great food from Café Linnea, RGE RD, Under the High Wheel and XIX, while enjoying craft beers and cocktails. The event features live musical performances, street dancers, DJs, ice carving and culinary competitions. Tix: $175, visit hotchefscoolbeats. ca. All funds raised support the High School Culinary Challenge. For more info about the challenge, visit highschoolculinarychallenge.ca.
product news Getting married? Don’t like cake? The Cavern, (10169 104 Street, 780-4551336, thecavern.ca) is introducing the Cavern Cheese Cakes—tiered wheels of cheese with the most appropriate accompaniments. They call it an elegant alternative to the traditional wedding cake. Celebrate St. Patrick’s Day at Cavern Beer & Cheese School, Sunday March 17, from 2-4pm at Cavern. The last March Cheese School is on Sunday March 24. Call to book. Williams-Sonoma (2854 West Edmonton Mall, 780-481-3618) is having a private Bridal Registry function March 24, 9-10:45am. Enjoy snacks plus 20 per cent off purchases for those who register (valid that day only). Call store to reserve. Enjoy pop-ups from local food artisans: Caramunchies, Saturday, March 16, 12-5pm; Fruits of Sherbrooke on Saturdays, March 30 and April 13, 11am3pm. If you are a local food producer interested in doing a pop-up at WilliamsSonoma, call Shannon at 780-481-3618. Bella Casa (9646 142 Street, 780437-4190, bellacasadcl.com) features new Thymes vegan products (counter top and room sprays, hand soap and dishwashing liquid), in passionfruit neroli, washed linen and fresh basil, from $19.25.
Shorten your to-do list for Easter dinner with a Meuwly’s (10706 124 Street, 587-786-3560, meuwlys.com) smoked honey ham in small $39 or large $89. Includes a jar of house-made honey cider mustard. Meuwly’s offers Connoisseur Charcuterie Platters—cured and smoked meats, pickles, condiments with a sliced baguette, $70. Pick up April 19-21. Easter Weekend hours: 10am6:30pm on Good Friday, regular hours on Saturday, and 10am-4pm on Easter Sunday. Call or visit the website to place your order.
at the cooking schools There are three spots left in the Ruby Apron’s St Patrick’s Day Class and Dinner. The evening highlights local producers and will show us that Irish food isn’t all boiled potatoes and cabbage. March 15, 6pm, $95, register on the website, therubyapron.ca. The spring schedule will be up April 15. Williams-Sonoma (2854 West Edmonton Mall, 780-481-3618) offer cooking classes on Wednesday or Thursday nights as well as Sundays. Prices range from $40-$75. Call the store for all the deets. The Junior Chef classes, $40, are on Saturday from 10-11am: March 9 is the Star Wars Cookie Party (includes a Star Wars Cookie Set from a galaxy far far away) and March 23 is the Peter Rabbit Easter Baking Party (includes a Peter Rabbit cookie set). Call to book. Attention all inspiring home cooks looking to up their game: there are revised dates for the NAIT Culinary Boot Camps: Culinary Camp (CULG305) will be June 18-21, and Pastry Camp (BAKG330) is June 17-21. The Gourmet Camp and Cured Meats and Cheeses have been cancelled, due to the renovations to the NAIT Culinary Centre kitchens over the summer. More info nait.ca/bootcamp. Send interesting food and drink news for Kitchen Sink to hello@thetomato.ca.
Top 100
Comfort food created from scratch and made with love
Continued from page 27
93. Juniper’s Chorizo Queso Fundido “Made for sharing...but you don’t have to! Wonderful dish for a cold winter day—just the right amount of heat from the spicy sausage, salsa and molten cheese. They could not possibly improve on this winner,” says Brenda Kinloch.
94. Analog Brewing Company’s Beers “This brewery isn’t even a year old, but the quality of this beer is delicious,” says Katherine Launier, who nominated the unique In Another Castle Peach Mango Milkshake IPA. Alison Corsaut is another fan of Analog. “Power Up Porter is the best Porter I have ever tasted. This Edmonton based local microbrewery not only makes incredibly delicious beer but has a taproom that is a super fun place to hang out with friends. Must try.”
Gin cocktails, craft beer Gluten free & vegetarian features 9514-87 St.
Edmonton
780-490-6799
juniperbistro.com
95. Palabok House’s Crispy Fried Chicken “I live most of the time now in the Philippines and I have yet to find a place that can do crispy fried chicken like Lydia can in Edmonton. I am craving it, so I’m voting for her, heh heh,” says Gord Snyder.
96. Pho du Pho’s Sate Noodle Soup “The broth is tasty and the soup (#7 on the menu), just incredibly satisfying. They do not have a website (besides a Facebook page) and you have to call to order, but, wow. It really is one of the best things to eat or drink in Edmonton,” says Lisa Locher.
97. Two Sergeant’s Hunters Loaf “Bison meatloaf, glazed with a beer concoction and wrapped in bacon. It’s a generous portion for the price, with cabbage and roasted potatoes. Amazing,” Denise Dumont.
98. Caramunchies Caramels “The buttery soft, melt in your mouth caramel is one of a kind. Not to mention their twists on flavours are delicious. Love buying caramels from Caramunchies,” says Trent Oliver.
Where all the best parties happen.
780.757.7704 kitchenbybrad.ca #101, 10130 - 105 Street
99. Habaneros Mexican Grill’s César Bulldog “This Caesar rocks,” says Jim Logan. “Made with their exclusive Rig Hand Habanero Lime vodka. Add a Coronita beer and a Camarones Momias (bacon-wrapped shrimp).”
100. Columbian Coffee Bar and Roastery’s Avocado Toast “Is so, so, so simple but, dammit, it’s so good,” says Ian Breitzke. “Avocado, cilantro, garlic, lime, walnut oil on top of some deliciously soft Bonjour Boulangerie sourdough, topped with hemp hearts, like $7. Feel free to add a little cured salmon on it too, but me, I’m a traditionalist. And, to be fair, are you living your best millennial life if you aren’t eating avocado toast?”
101. Doef ’s Hydroponic Veggies “Can you believe we can buy local fresh veggies year ‘round in Edmonton?” asks Barb Le Mare. “Their shelf life is so much longer and flavour is so much better too.” Tomato Ad-December-2018.pdf
1
2018-12-13
780-757-2426 • cibobistro.com 11244 – 104 Avenue in Oliver Village
7:52 PM
Chef Levi Biddlecombe C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
Celebrating Five Great Years! Thank you #YEGfoodies for your continued support!
Red Door, Second Floor.
K
@GlassMonkeyYEG 780.760.2228
www.theglassmonkey.ca
5842-111 Street
8534 109 street, 2nd floor (beside upper crust) • 780-297-5757 • whynoteat.ca
The Tomato | March April 2019 29
Nourishing Entertainment! Metro Cinema is a community-based non-profit society devoted to the exhibition and promotion of Canadian, international, and independent film and video.
Tomato Crossword 1
2
3
Myles Mellor
4
5
6 7
Adult: $13, Student/Senior: $10 ($8 matinee), Child: $8
metrocinema.org
8
Ruben Brandt, Collector
11
March 22 - 27 A psychotherapist suffers violent nightmares inspired by legendary works of art. Four of his patients, expert thieves, offer to steal the works, since he believes that once he owns them, the nightmares will disappear.
All-You-Can-Eat-Cereal Cartoon Party
10
9 12
13
14
15
16 17
18
19
20
April 20 @ 10AM
21
The cartoon lineup is always a mystery, but you’ll see both Holiday faves and obscurities spanning the 40s through the 80s, all punctuated with vintage commercials and PSAs! Adult: $16, Student/Senior: $14, Child (12&under): $12
Monty Python and the Holy Grail April 20 @ 7PM A comedic send-up of the grim circumstances of the Middle Ages as told through the story of King Arthur and framed by a modern-day murder investigation.
23
24
25
22
26
27 29
28 30
31
32
33 34
35
Metro Cinema at the Garneau
Across 1 Traditional fare with nostalgic appeal, 2 words
7 Incuded in a recipe
8 Late morning meals 10 It might be cut up for fries
12 It might be served as a leg or a rack
11 Date
15 Fruit for smoothies and desserts
13 Pink wine
16 Reservation, for short
14 Prepare eggs, in a way
20 Had some
17 Naval rank, abbr.
22 Dough ingredient
18 Take a good look at
24 Samuel ____ beer
19 Tavern
25 Put too much dressing on, for example
31 Night before Christmas, e.g. 32 Old form of you
G
29
L
A D
A
27
T
B
23
A
R
E
N
E
S
R O
E
S
E
U
B
13
R
18
11
A
O
C O M 2
9
16
E
N
C
D
25
Y
3
K I
E
E
S
C
14
E
O R
26 19
M
R
A
H
L
B
L
N F
33
R
S E
17 1
30
R O N
24
N
S M O N
S
E
8
S
4
31
12
X F
5
N
T
Y
32
E
R
21
A
S P
Y
T
A
28
A
R
20
E Y
22
E 15
L
S
E
A M B
R T
V E S
U
I
O O D 6
E D
P
10
D L S
D 7
A
6 Salsa or guacamole, for example
E
5 __tail soup
E
4 Brit's molasses
S
3 First word in a fairy tale
N O
30 March April 2019 | The Tomato
2 Rich desserts
W
soundcloud.com
1 Famous red
35
A podcast about food and drink recorded in Edmonton and hosted by Mary and Amanda.
Down
I
IS ON THE AIR!
35 Term describing how the wine smells in the glass
S
34 Amounts of sugar added in champagne preparation
E
33 Social occasion
30 Sister, for short
S
29 Edmonton restaurant where you can sample some riojas, The ____, 2 words
27 Allowed to improve, as cheeses or wines
M
28 Dad, for short
26 Appreciated Facebook symbols
E
23 Noted rioja wine cellar in an old monastery in Navarre, 3 words
D O
21 Waiter's need
9 Born name indicator
34
8712-109 Street | metrocinema.org
Explore Canadian Cuisine Open at 5:00pm Tuesday through Saturday Located next to the Alberta Legislature & Grandin LRT station Overlooking the beautiful river valley with complimentary parking Make your reservation on OpenTable or by phone 9707 110 Street NW | thebutternuttree.ca | 780.760.2271
ITALIAN RESTAURANT 10310 - 45 AVE (780) 250-1110 www.vaticanoyeg.com
The Tomato & Drink The TomatoFood Food and Drink KitchenDesign Design Awards Kitchen Awards 2018
Built a new kitchen lately? Proud ofThe it?Tomato Food & Drink Enter yourKitchen Design Awards kitchen in the
Tomato Kitchen Design Awards (TKDA) TKDA is open to architects, builders, contractors, designers, developers, and do-it yourselfers, offering awards in several categories, including outdoor kitchens. See submission rules and regulations at thetomato.ca.
Submissions Open Friday March 29, 2019 Submissions Close Friday May 3, 2019 Winners will be featured in the July/August issue of The Tomato, online at thetomato.ca and in all press releases and materials related to the TKDA.