The Tomato Food and Drink November December 2018

Take a bite of your city | November December 2018 | thetomato.ca

Wines from the rich uncle and the cashstrapped friend The tools of a chef Holiday entertaining menu

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ALL ZWILLING® STAUB, MIYABI & BALLARINI KITCHENWARE

ARTISAN CLASSICO A SWEET BREAD BORN OVER A CENTURY AGO IN MILAN, ITALY. Our artisan Panettone is lovingly handcrafted the traditional way. A natural yeast starter, and days of kneading and proofing the dough, give our Panettone it’s signature lightness. Candied orange peel and raisins are then added to impart the bread with the classic taste that makes Panettone a beloved holiday tradition.

FREE ZWILLING J.A. HENCKELS KNIFE SHARPENING CLINIC SEE STORE FOR DETAILS

DISCOVER THE FULL ZWILLING® COLLECTION AT

VISIT CANOVA.CA FOR ONLINE ORDERS THIS HOLIDAY SEASON!

House Applewood Smoked Salmon

hardware grill hardware grill hardware grill est. 1996

est. 1996

est. 1996

Wishing you the very best for the Christmas Season Book now for New Year’s Eve. Please visit our website for holiday hours.

780.423.0969 • www.hardwaregrill.com • 97 Street & Jasper Avenue est. 1996

est. 1996

est. 1996

The Pan Tree | #550, 220 Lakeland Dr, Sherwood Park, Alberta T8H 0N6 On the corner of Broadmoor Boulevard and Lakeland Drive 780-464-4631 | www.thepantree.ca | Open 7 days (closed statutory holidays) Monday - Wednesday 10am-6pm | Thursday 10am-6pm | Friday 10am-6pm Saturday 10am-5pm | Sunday 11am-3pm

Contents Editor

Features

Mary Bailey marybee@telus.net

Publisher

Photo Essay | Curtis Comeau

BGP Publishing

Copy Editor Shauna Faragini

Illustration/Photography Design and Prepress

WebMeister

16 Wines from the Rich Uncle and the Cash-Strapped Friend 2018 edition

Gunnar Blodgett, COPA Jurist

Printer

12 How Fanta Camara became a Local Tea Entrepreneur An Alberta story | Mary Bailey

Curtis Comeau Bossanova Communications Inc.

10 Holiday Entertaining Menu Chef Roger Letourneau and chef Christine Sandford

Contributing Writers Peter Bailey Curtis Comeau

6 The Tools of a Chef

26 Canada’s Great Kitchen Party New name, new cause

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Departments

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The Tomato is published six times per year: January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December

by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780.431.1802 Subscriptions are available for $25 per year.

5 Dish Gastronomic happenings around town

14 Beer Guy It’s a wonderful beer | Peter Bailey

22 Wine Maven Mary Bailey

24 Under the Tree Looking for Christmas gifts? Find them here!

28 Kitchen Sink What’s new and notable

30 The Crossword Myles Mellor

thetomato.ca

On the cover: chef Jennifer Stang with her trusty bread knife.

Curtis Comeau Photography.

Celebrating Edmonton’s

20 YEARS

Food Culture Since 1996 The Tomato | November December 2018 3

LIMITED EDITION

RESERVE TAWNY PORT

Intrattenere (In-TRA-TEN-air-Eh)

This is how we say “Entertain” in Italian.

For Italians, entertaining and sharing meals is how we celebrate the holidays. In our shops you’ll find everything you need to make your holidays easy and stress free, and of course, to wow your guests

Gather with family and friends and celebrate the holidays with us.

AN EXTRAORDINARY CREATION

90

POINTS WINE ADVOCATE Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.

EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End CALGARY Willow Park

italiancentre.ca

TAYLOR.PT

PROUDLY REPRESENTED BY:

TO FIND A RETAILER VISIT: LIQUORCONNECT.COM/805253

Dish

gastronomic happenings around town

remembering gail hall

confessions of a knife nerd

It’s been two years since Gail Hall succumbed to cancer. Her husband, Jon Hall, wanted to have her life and contributions remembered in a concrete way. The book about Gail’s life, Maps, Markets and Matzo Ball Soup: The inspiring life of Chef Gail Hall by Twyla Campbell launched October 28. “Taking on this project was intimidating,” says Twyla.

“Her story deserved to be told well and with authenticity and I didn’t want to let her down.”

Twyla will be talking about the book and signing copies at Kitchen by Brad (10130 105 Street, 780-757-7704) on November 4, from 13pm. One of the sweetest things in the book are the recipes. Expect something good to eat while you are there. The book is also available at Audrey’s, 10702 Jasper Avenue, 780-423-3487.

Kevin Kent, the chef turned Japanese knife sensai, has written a book about his experiences in the knife world, The Knifenerd Guide to Japanese Knives, the insider’s view of the blacksmiths, creation, care and artistry of the best knives in the world with photography by Visti Kjar. We expect Kevin’s no-holds-barred exuberance to fill the pages, but we haven’t actually seen the book yet. Available November 4 at Knifewear (10820 82 Avenue, 587-521-2034) $40.

party platter central The Italian Centre is launching new party platters for the season. The Party Snacker has smoked turkey sausage, German salami, Cheddar, provolone and Boursin and is finished with pickles and olives, $30; the Spuntino is double cream Brie and Reggiano, bresaola, spicy Calabrese salami with olives, grapes, nuts and honey, $56; Traditional Italian Antipasto offers Genoa salami, capicollo, mortadella, Asiago, bocconcini, provolone, olives and giardinera, $73; and the Breakfastboard has hardboiled eggs, turkey, Prosciutto cotto, Asiago, dried and fresh fruits and nuts, $50.

Order in store, online or by phone with 48 hours notice. Yum.

easy peasy weekday cooking Emily Richards and Sylvia Kong are the cooks behind the latest Best of Bridge Cookbook, Weekday Suppers and it’s a winner. Emily is a home economist, recipe developer and cookbook author who many will know from Christmas in November. Calgarian Sylvia Kong is a food stylist, home economist and consultant at Savory Palate Consulting. Expect lots of variety and flavours in the 175 recipes using regular pantry ingredients and even some store-bought time savers such as rotisserie chicken and frozen filled pastas. (Because most family cooks have to do that sometimes, right?) Emily and Sylvia’s recipes use methods that speed up cooking such as one pot cooking or using sheet pans and the pressure cooker.

Emily will be at the Italian Centre South, (5028 104A Street) on November 15 cooking from Weekday Suppers.

say goodbye to hillaby’s Hillaby’s, the housewares shop in the Enjoy Centre in St. Albert, is going out of business with an everythingmust-go sale. “The store was my long-term plan. It’s breaking my heart to close,” says owner Lynn Hillaby.

Hillaby’s was a great store for cooks. “We were the number one store in Canada in 2018 for Bellarini, the high-quality, non-stick cookware from Italy.”

family funghi The enterprising Gruger Family is growing mushrooms in a pristine facility near Leduc. There is a variety of oyster mushrooms in different colours and the fuzzylooking lions mane, also dried mushroom powders and some cosmetics. Find the mushrooms on local restaurant menus, at Meuwly’s, at Bon Ton Bakery and the City Market Downtown on Saturdays.

We can’t wait to tour this place!

swedish dish cloth christmas 2018 We love the seasonal Swedish dish cloths and look for the new patterns every year.

Tuck into a hostess gift or stocking, or buy to match your kitchen. This pattern and others can be found at Heart of the Home, Wired Cup, Zocalo, Hillaby’s and Bella Casa, $7.

Why close now? “Changes at the centre, downturn in the economy, big box stores, when Costco opened in St. Albert that was it. St. Albert was my demographic, but young families aren’t cooking,” she says.

“The sale starts now and will go through until December 31 if necessary. Everything is on sale including the kitchen sink,” says Lynn.

From the top: Twyla Campbell’s tribute to Gail Hall; everything you've always wanted to know about knives from Kevin Kent; the latest from Best of Bridge; an Italian Centre yummy party platter; Lynn Hillaby in her store; the Bellarini non-stick skillet; a very Swedish Christmas.

Ever the optimist, Lynn plans a new career in food travel. “Woman-friendly trips, a couple of trips per year, with a strong food component, starting in 2019,” is all she’ll say for now. Hillaby’s, 101 Riel Drive, 780651-7373.

The Tomato | November December 2018 5

THE TOOLS OF A CHEF

Miyabi Birchwood 160mm Gyuto, $369

“I wanted to explore knives in this photo essay. I do a lot of food and chef photography and one thing that has always fascinated me is the tools they use. But I never really thought about a knife making a difference to me, until a friend gave me a knife—a Wüsthof chef’s knife. It changed my life.

Photos Curtis Comeau Photography | Styling Peter Keith, Meuwly’s | Words Mary Bailey

6 November December 2018 | The Tomato

“It was an unbelievable experience,” says Curtis Comeau, budding knife enthusiast. “But, over about six months it got dull and wasn’t so much fun anymore. A chef friend said ‘Go to Knifewear. They will sharpen it for you and show you how to take care of it.’

“When I went in to Knifewear I was blown away by the different types of knives. It was another world. You can hold them and test them out and find the one that fits you. While someone sharpened my knife, by hand, ($10) someone else showed me how to use a ceramic honing rod (called a steel). If I used it every time I used my knife, I would only have to have it sharpened maybe once a year. It would help hold the edge and keep the knife in top shape.

“A few weeks ago, I was visiting my Dad at the hotel our family owns near Waterton National Park,” says Curtis.

“My dad and his partner are everyday Albertans; they have Walmart knives and a steel sharpener, like everybody else. I couldn’t even cut the bacon, I almost cut my fingers trying to force the knife through the bacon. It was a miserable experience after using my Wüsthof. I said ‘I am buying you guys a $150 knife.

If will make your life so much better.’

“Now I get it. You use a knife like your toothbrush, every day. It’s going to be fascinating learning more about knives.”

“A good knife is inspiring,” says Kris Armitage, manager of the Knifewear shop on Whyte Avenue. “A good sharp knife is also safer, but what is really important is the joy a good knife brings.

You will be inspired to cook and enjoy it more.

“Buying a knife is very personal,” says Kris. “It’s like picking out a hockey stick, it’s got to be the one that feels right in your hands. We narrow it down to the size and shape. You will have it for the rest of your life. You do not need to buy another knife. You’re going to want to, but you don’t have to.

“I want to find the right knife for each person, whether that be a factory-made knife with a plastic handle ($79) or a Fujiwara Denka. These are made by a fourth-generation blacksmith, Teruyasa Fujiwara, who changed how knives are made in Japan.

Masakage Kiri 270mm Sujihiki, $355

Zwilling 7-inch Pro Chef’s Knife, $225

KNIFE TIPS FROM KRIS ARMITAGE, KNIFEWEAR Use a wooden cutting board.

Not glass, not bamboo, not wood fragments, not ceramic or stone.

These surfaces are very hard on knives. Plastic is ok but not as anti-bacterial as wood.

“His knives are empirically better than everything else in our store (and range from $600-$1000). Fujiwara said, ‘If you don’t pass these on to the next generation and that generation to the next, I have failed at making a knife.’

to get rid of impurities. Steel making has progressed so much that Damascus no longer refers to a type of steel but a look.

“It’s used strictly for aesthetics now,” says Kris, “and doesn’t affect how the knife performs at all.

“Besides how a knife feels in your hand what matters it how it is made and with what. For example, stainless steel knives used to get a bad rap because it was hard to keep a fine edge, which is not true anymore,” says Kris. “Knife technology is constantly changing. The Miyabi Black series is one of the hardest steels around, yet it will hold an edge for a ridiculous amount of time.

“We recommend one to three knives for a basic set up in a kitchen. The old saying, you get what you pay for, is so true with knives. The sweet spot for one great knife is between $200 and $400, probably six to 11 inches. A chef ’s knife (210 ml Gyuto, approx 9.5 inches) is a good all-round knife. Buy the biggest you knife you are comfortable with.

A petty knife (74 ml, also called a paring knife) for small jobs like coring strawberries or taking silver skin off meats, or a utility knife which has a wider blade.”

“The biggest difference with Japanese knives is that the steel is harder. You can put a finer edge on it and it will stay sharp longer. A sharp knife is safer because it goes where you tell it to.

“A handmade knife is hammered by a blacksmith. The attention that goes into a hand-forged knife will show in its performance. A factory-made knife is made mostly by machine,” says Kris.

How a knife is made also makes a difference in how it looks. Take Damascus steel for example. It’s an ancient technique invented in Syria, involving folding the steel over and over

Kris recommends tailoring your third knife to your style of cooking. “If you chop a lot of vegetables, a Nakiri (cabbage) knife is a good idea. It’s a big flat knife that looks a bit like a cleaver.

Hone your knife using a ceramic steel (honer) every time you use it.

It keeps the edge polished. The steel ones can be too aggressive.

Wash and dry by hand.

Don’t put knives in the sink.

Don’t put in the dishwasher,as it’s bad for the handles and the edge.

Don’t leave your knife wet. Always dry them to prevent rust. Even stainless steel can rust.

Learn to sharpen your knives properly or take it in to have it sharpened. If you are using the honer every time you will probably only have to do this once a year or so.

Hang your knives on the wall using a magnetic holder. Second best is a wood holder. At the very least, use guards on your knives.

A knife is not a can opener or a screwdriver. Don’t use a knife to smash through anything.

Use a cleaver for that.

“And don’t forget to take care of it, hone it every time you use it and get it sharpened at least once a year. “

Buy the best knife you can afford that fits you and use it with pleasure.

Please see “Knives” on next page

The Tomato | November December 2018 7

Knives Continued from page 7.

Kelsey Johnson, chef and co-owner, Café Linnea “What do I like about my knife? It’s all about the feel in my hand, the way it rocks when I use it, the weight,” says Kelsey Johnson, exec chef at Café Linnea. “My every day is a 10-inch Miyabi and I have a Tojiro Flash that I use for butchery. It has a firm blade which is good for breaking down a half cow and it’s good for taking out bones.

“I bought my first knife at Knifewear in Calgary long before I was in the industry, when I was in film and theatre. It’s a knife made by a 25th generation Samurai family, eight inches or so, unfinished steel with a wooden handle. I use it at home. It has no spring at all. No flex. My Miyabi has a lot of flex.

I’m pretty basic in how I take care of them—I do have three sets of stones and I do a quick hone a couple of times a day. Fillie (a cook at Linnea) is a knife fanatic; he used to work at Knifewear.

“I wish all home cooks had a good knife because it makes cooking so much easier.

It doesn’t have to be a $500 knife, it could be a $100 knife. And it will last forever.”

Davina Moraiko, chef de cuisine, RGE RD What do you look for in a knife? “It depends on what I am using it for,” says Davina Moraiko, RGE RD’s chef de cuisine and the 2018 gold medallist at Edmonton’s Great Kitchen Party. “If I’m meat cutting, I’ll need a boning knife. If I’m working the oven station, I’ll need a slicer.

You can’t use a chef ’s knife for everything. Though, that would make life much simpler.

“My hands are a bit small and I like a lighter knife. My favourite knife is the Masakage Kumo Kamagata. I’ve had this knife for about six years and I use it every single day, cutting greens and vegetables, slicing a fresh tomato during service, slicing onions. I like the handle and it’s light, not massive. Having a big blade on the line takes up a lot of room. I get it sharpened at Knifewear, I hone it every day and I wash it by hand, never ever put it in the dishwasher. I have maybe nine knives, not a massive collection. I just like to have the right knife for what I need.”

Lindsay Porter, chef and owner, London Local “I like a thin blade and I don’t like a heavy knife,” says Lindsay Porter, chef/owner of London Local. “I prefer stainless steel knives. They don’t rust. You get a bit of water on a carbon steel knife and you are in a hurry and don’t wipe it down right away, it can rust.

“I don’t like overly big or super long knives. This Shun is a good size. I got it at a seafood festival in PEI—a nice little gift basket with two Shun knives. I use it every day.

I have some other Japanese knives too.

“I still have my first knife. It was from the set I bought at the NAIT bookstore.

Victorinox, I think. I hone daily with the steel (ceramic) and sharpen every three to four months. Sharpening revives the knife. If it’s dull, you have to push and you can cut your finger. I like a few other knives too—a smaller, more versatile knife, like a paring knife, goes a long way. You can get into everything, like a cauliflower. A boning knife is very important. You don’t feel like it’s going to chip the bone, it’s meant to go around the bone.

“Right now, our cooks in the kitchen are using the kits that they bought in school—not the Japanese knives yet.”

8 November December 2018 | The Tomato

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Jennifer Stang, La Boule Bakery “When you enter the culinary program, you are offered a knife set, the Wüsthof kit or the Victorinox kit. I bought the Wüsthof kit. I knew nothing. The 10-inch Wüsthof chef knife is the knife I learned to cut with, that I learned knife skills with.

www.theglassmonkey.ca

5842-111 Street

“I call it my wife, don’t like it when people touch it. I use her still, I like the balance, the way it feels in my hand. I know how it’s going to move. I’ve been gifted knives, such as Global, too light. I find the Japanese knives in general too light. My muscle memory works with the heavier knife.

“Because I am a cook first, pastry chef second, I probably cut more than most, I’m always chiffonading.

“I have breadknives too. One came in my knife kit, it has a scalloped edge which is good for cutting éclair and choux. It’s a bit used and abused, could use a little love.

I also have another bread knife, Damascus steel with serrated teeth, very pointy and sharp. When cutting our crusty bread, this is the knife you need. They never teach you how to take care of a bread knife, especially the scalloped edge. I don’t know how and couldn’t find anyone to do it.

I sharpen knives on a stone with oil, I am well versed in how to take care of my knives. I like to take care of things. They are the tools of my trade. But the bread knife, no idea.”

Curtis Comeau is an advertising and editorial photographer who regulary contributes photography to The Tomato. Some of his previous stories include a photo essay on pizza, The Art of Sushi and A Visual Exploration of Pancakes.

Where to buy: Zwillings knives are available at Barbs’s Kitchen, Bella Casa, Heart of the Home, Gifts and Gadgets and the Pantree. Miyabi knives are available at Knifewear and the retailers above.

Explore Canadian Cuisine Open at 5:00pm Tuesday through Saturday Located next to the Alberta Legislature & Grandin LRT station Overlooking the beautiful river valley with complimentary parking Make your reservation on OpenTable or by phone 9707 110 Street NW | thebutternuttree.ca | 780.760.2271

The Tomato | November December 2018 9

Holiday Entertaining Menu with Chef Roger Letourneau and Chef Christine Sandford

Roger Letourneau, chef at Bar Clementine and Christine Sandford, the executive chef at Biera, got to know each other during the days of Staff Meal, a collaborative of several young guns in Edmonton’s culinary scene. Then they went off together to Europe, cooking at several restaurants in Belgium where they were immersed in a culture of fermentation, foraging, nose to tail cooking and close connections with the local farmers—all the things happening in North American cooking now—classic approaches known to most European households. Back in Edmonton they have carried this experience into their respective kitchens with delicious results.

We wanted to know ‘what do they cook at home for their friends?’ Enjoy this French inspired holiday menu.

This is a menu we put together for family or friends on New Year's Eve, or whenever we might like to celebrate. These are recipes we have collected throughout many of our travels and experiences as chefs.

French Onion Crackers This is a great recipe to serve to your guests as they arrive. It’s rich and flavourful and will be perfect with a glass of Champagne or a light crisp beer. You can make all of the components ahead, so it's easy to execute at the last minute.

–Christine

250 g chicken stock (reduced from 500 g) 30 g

Comtè cheese (or Gruyére)

150 mL

cream

Cook the onions in the butter until just translucent. Deglaze with the white wine.

Add 250 g reduced chicken stock and reduce all of it together until quite dry.

Mix in the cheese and the cream. Season with salt. Pour into a container and let cool in the refrigerator until the next day.

Crispy Onion Crust 1 kg

onion minced finely

50 g

butter

Cook the onions in the butter until well caramelized. Place on a sheet pan lined with parchment and place into your oven on its lowest setting for 3-4 hours or until dry (keep the door open slightly).

Alternately, you can place into a food dehydrator for 5 hours at 140ºF.

Crackers sourdough bread oil (garlic oil, cold pressed oil or olive oil work nicely) salt

Pre-heat the oven to 350ºF. Thinly slice the bread and brush or spray with oil until saturated. Sprinkle with salt. Place in the oven and bake until crispy. Let cool.

250 g

onions

90 g

butter

To serve: scoop the cold onion cream into quenelles or balls and cover with the onion crust. Let the crusted onion cream come to room temperature just before putting it onto the cracker. Place onto cracker and add a garnish of thinly chopped chives or onion sprouts if you like.

white wine

Makes 12-15 crackers.

Onion Cream

200 g

10 November December 2018 | The Tomato

Fresh & Grilled/Broiled Oysters

If you have some wood chips throw them on before you start grilling for a smokier flavor.

Oysters are fully into their season in December and doing two preparations will showcase their diversity of flavour. Usually I don’t go for oysters Rockefeller or any oyster au gratin but when Christine and I were visiting Hog Island near San Francisco we had a grilled oyster that was insanely delicious. Use west coast oysters for grilling, due to their creamy texture, and use freshly-shucked east coast oysters due to the clean brininess that pairs well with acidity.

Shuck your east coast oysters and place them on crushed ice or salt in the fridge.

Prepare the garnish. Reserve. Enjoy the grilled oysters alongside the fresh.

Pair this dish with a dry Alsatian Riesling with high acidity (Grand Cru is best), or a Belgian Witbier with a lemon wedge. –Roger 2-3/person East Coast oysters 2-3/person West Coast oysters 1-2 T smoked chilies* or 1-2 T bird’s eye chilies or chili flakes 125 ml olive oil, Arbequina or Portuguese 125 ml

butter, warmed

1 T

lemon juice

2 t

zest lemon

oyster garnish: lemon wedges, chopped herbs or shallots in white wine vinegar

Day before: blend olive oil, butter, lemon juice, zest and chilies very well.

Day of: heat the grill to med-high or the broiler to 450ºF. Shuck west coast oysters and place 10 ml of the chili oil on each oyster along with its brine.

If broiling: heat buttered oysters for 3-6 minutes until the butter has separated and oyster is shrunk slightly.

If grilling: place oysters on the grill and cook for 5-7 minutes until the butter separates and oyster has shrunk slightly.

* If you are grilling oysters you can omit the smoked chili as the smoke from the grilling will be enough. Smoked chilies are available at Silk Road.

Chicken en Croute de Sel This dish is made with a salt crust which gives it a nice even cooking and increases the flavours of the aromatics inside and seasons the chicken as you cook it. The key to this cooking method is the long rest period before opening that salt crust. For the pairing I suggest the Jongieux Blanc Vin de Savoie which goes well with the cheese in the aligot and the chicken. If you’re looking to impress, get a bottle of ChassagneMontrachet Premier Cru les Rebichets for an excellent pairing. If you prefer a red go with a Hautes Côtes de Nuit or other dry Pinot Noir. I added chicken livers because I think the flavour is something most people don’t realize they like.

The other thing about livers is that they’re high in nutrients. Get a good quality chicken. Using livers from industrial chickens aren’t going to give you the same result. –Roger whole chicken, ½ lbs/person sprig rosemary, bay leaves, sprig of thyme 3-4

chicken livers, per bird

4 oz

butter

1 oz

Cognac or Armagnac

Salt Crust 1 kg

flour

500 g

coarse grey salt

500 ml

cold water

Remove your chicken from the bag and dry off well with some paper towel, then place it in your refrigerator uncovered on a rack. Pre-heat oven to 465ºF. In the meantime, mix flour, salt and cold water. Make a dough that comes together (it won’t feel like bread since the salt is cutting the gluten strands).

Take your chicken livers and dry very well. Heat a pan on maximum and right before you add the livers put a little bit of oil in the pan. Cook for maybe 30 seconds on the first side just to colour.

Remove and dry again. Reheat pan and repeat on the other side. Very quickly, just to colour and no more. Dry again.

Take your livers and blend well with butter and season with pepper.

Remove chicken from fridge and rub the interior with salt, pepper and chicken liver butter. Pour the spirit and the remaining chicken liver butter over the bird and coat well.

Cut the dough into two pieces and roll one piece to cover the bottom of a baking pan big enough to fit the chicken, with some extra sticking out.

Place the chicken on the bottom piece and roll the second dough ball out and cover completely. The trick is to seal the chicken so you are steaming it properly.

Check for holes to be sure. Place chicken in the oven and cook for 50 minutes.

Remove from oven and rest for 40 minutes in the salt crust in a warm spot.

Cut a hole in the salt crust and remove chicken.

Butter Leaf Salad Something acidic and fresh to cut the richness of the other dishes.

2 T

Dijon mustard

2 T

sherry vinegar

4 T

olive oil

2-3 heads butter leaf lettuce 1 container chives (½ cup or so) finely minced

salt and pepper

Mix Dijon and vinegar together and season with salt and pepper well to begin with, as the salt won’t dissolve in oil properly. Whisk in olive oil a little at a time to keep the emulsion. Season again if needed. Mix with butter leaf and chives. Add a squeeze of lemon juice if needed.

2 T

dark muscovado sugar

1

tonka bean*

Pre-heat the broiler, pour the gratin cream over top of the apples, just covering them. Place under the broiler until nicely browned and remove. About 4 minutes.

½ c

booze

Makes 1 large or 4-5 smaller gratins.

looking for something firm with a bit of tartness and sweetness)

Aligot “When we were camping around Averyon, France, we came across this recipe for Aligot.

It’s made with a special cheese called Tomme Fraiche de Vache that is melted in with the potato puree and mixed a certain way, so you get long strands of cheesy potato—puts on quite a show! Naturally, after gathering all the ingredients from different farms we tried to make this at the campsite (over fire) and it turned out pretty good. Since it’s hard to find the right cheese here you can substitute Raclette or Appenzeller cheese, we like to get these at Bonjour Bakery. –Christine 800 g Yukon Gold potato (potatoes that have been in the cellar a while work best.) Try using potatoes from your local market.

400 g Raclette or Appenzeller cheese 200 g cream (we like Vital Greens Organic heavy cream) 1 clove

garlic

1

fresh bay leaf

salt

Peel and wash the potatoes and cook them in well-salted water with the garlic and bay leaf until tender. Put the potatoes through a potato mill. Add the cream and place the potatoes and cream in a large bain-marie.

Cut the cheese into strips and add to the potatoes. Get a large wooden spoon and make figure eights until it becomes long and stringy, and you can pull it up about a foot above the pan. Season well with salt.

Makes 6-8 portions.

salt

*Find tonka beans at Silk Road.

150 ml Vital Greens Dairy cream whipped to soft peaks 90 g

sugar

6

egg yolks

salt

Melt the butter in a large skillet. Add the apple slices in a single layer and sprinkle them with the brown sugar. Cook over moderate heat, stirring a few times, until lightly browned on both sides, about 6-8 minutes. Add the booze and grate in just a touch of the tonka bean. (Think of it like nutmeg, you don’t want to add too much as it’s very strong.) Cook until the juices evaporate, and the apples are glazed, about 4-5 minutes. Season with salt. Spread the apples in a single layer in a 10-inch glass pie plate or use individual gratin dishes.

Whip the sugar and egg yolks until pale and fluffy. Gently fold in the whipped cream and a pinch of salt. The best way I find is to add the whipped cream all at once. Put the whipped cream right in the middle; then take your spatula from the middle, scraping from the bottom up towards you, then to the side and repeat around the bowl clockwise. You can jiggle the spatula a little while you are coming up from the bottom of the bowl. The main thing you don’t want to do is mix aggressively and deflate the mixture. Now your gratin cream base is ready and will hold in the refrigerator until needed.

Winter Apple Gratin De Fruits One of my first jobs in Belgium was in a kitchen where everyone spoke only French.

As I was still learning and could barely get by, there were many awkward moments. I remember trying to read this recipe in French and decipher it. I was so nervous I was going to screw it up, but somehow a miracle happened, and it turned out right. I am much better at reading French now than speaking it!

I like to make this for guests, and I have put my own spin on this recipe. This is a simple recipe that you can prep ahead and finish just after dinner. It's simple, but it is important that you choose good quality fruit and dairy. You don’t have to use apples you could use peaches, berries or even fruit left over in the freezer from summer. –Christine

Local Seasonal Organic Sustainable •

•

•

4 apples cored and sliced (pick ones from the market that are seasonal, you are

The Tomato | November December 2018 11

How Fanta Camara became a local tea entrepreneur.

An Alberta story.

Mary Bailey

Fanta Camara makes great tea.

I know this because I have been drinking her chai since 1999. Her company VitalyTeas, is a very different creature from that booth at the Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market sampling Canada Chai. Now, Fanta produces several teas out of a small industrial space in North Edmonton, under the Vitalities label. In addition to the chai, which is now in a bag, unsweetened, Fanta produces bagged black and green teas and herb tisanes.

At left: Fanta Camara and her tea machine.

12 November December 2018 | The Tomato

“I started the company in 1999,” says Fanta. “My idea was to make teas that were beneficial and made you feel good.

I had two young kids, so it was not full time. In 2011, when the kids were older, I found I could focus on tea. I work with spice and tea importers who work directly with plantations in ethical partnerships. I buy organic mint and chamomile from Chickadee Farms. I created all the blends, then shipped them to a co-packer in BC as there was nowhere to make tea bags in Alberta.

“But when I would go around to sell the teas, shops would tell me, you are too expensive. I needed to bring all the production in house, to cut costs.”

Fanta began researching what she might need to make tea bags and where to find the funding. Her husband, Marc-Andre, an engineer, was helpful in selecting the best equipment for moving forward the business.

“Because of him I got the courage to get the tea machine,” says Fanta. “He had the knowledge to help me, looked at my business, took care of all the technical details and put together the machine, which we sourced from Argentina. The machine makes 150 tea bags a minute.

Now we just need more sales. You need quantity and people buying the product to make it a successful business.”

Therein lies the dilemma. Fanta’s teas are competitively priced, made by a local business and, in many of the blends, are made from local ingredients, but she finds that buyers in shops can be reluctant to change from their current, non-Canadian supplier.

It’s a conundrum shared by many local food entrepreneurs. They make a great product but are unable to dislodge (sometimes inferior) products made offshore.

But when they do, good things happen.

“Block 1912 sell 700 cups a week of our chai. It’s unsweetened, people add sweetness to taste. It’s also very high in antioxidants,” says Fanta.

The teas are amazing, with balanced flavours and without harsh tannins. The Cardamom Liquorice blend is the ideal tea for the evening—calming, subtle, rich and balanced with no caffeine.

Fanta’s current favourite, the Prairie Breakfast, is a delicious and hearty blend of green and black tea. The Earl Grey has become my go-to bergamot tea.

You can taste the quality of the ingredients. The mint and chamomile that Fanta uses are from Chickadee Farm, near Flatbush, Alberta. “I went to pick up my order earlier this fall. It was so beautiful and fresh. My car still smells of peppermint and spearmint,” says Fanta.

Vitaiteas blends are available at several cafés (Block 1912, Café Bicyclette, Upper Crust, Vivo, Ernest’s and the Sugar Bowl) across the city and wholesale via Sysco and Galimax Trading. And yes, you will still find her at the Strathcona Market where you can pick up a box of delicious, high quality, made in Alberta tea for $9.

Mary Bailey likes her chai unsweetened.

780-705-4928 12539-102 AVENUE EDMONTON, AB

The Tomato | November December 2018 13

Beer Guy It’s a wonderful beer “All you can take with you is that which you’ve given away.”

– Peter Bailey in

It’s a Wonderful Life In the classic 1946 film, Peter Bailey is George Bailey’s father, the “starry-eyed dreamer” who defies mean Mr. Potter and helps local working class people buy homes through the Bailey Building and Loan. Bar owner Giuseppe Martini is the first owner of a home in Bailey Park, a housing development for firsttime homeowners financed by the Building and Loan. George (Jimmy Stewart) is itching to leave town but Pa Bailey dies, forcing George to take over the Building and Loan, stymying his dreams of travelling the world.

The film has a reputation as corny and sentimental, but after umpteen times of viewing it at Christmastime, one can really see it has a pitch black heart. It’s a story of dashed hopes, with George’s frustrated ambitions fueling some visible rage.

It exists within a tradition of other melancholy Christmas classics, from Dickens’ A Christmas Carol to How the Grinch Stole Christmas. They’re stories of redemption, with bitterness, anger and self-pity giving way to compassion, generosity and self-knowledge.

In our cold northern city, we need to work together to keep the seasonal melancholy at bay. Studies show that what makes people happy is community, a sense of belonging and trust in the people around us. George Bailey understands this at the end of It’s a Wonderful Life, surrounded by friends and family. In Edmonton, there is nothing like a bitterly cold Alberta day

14 November December 2018 | The Tomato

to bring people together. Saying ‘Cold enough for ya?’ to a complete stranger is just how we say, ‘Hey, we’re all in this together.’ Beer can bring people together too. Sharing a rich stout or porter with a friend by a fireplace as the Alberta winter winds howl outside. Hoisting a local ale with a crowd as the Oilers break our hearts once again. Visiting friends, family or neighbours you haven’t seen in ages, bringing along a growler of that amazing sour you discovered: ‘Oh my god, you have to try this—so good.’ Or even hearing your beer league hockey team groan when you make them try another fancy craft lager. Sure, they groan, but at least you remembered to bring beer.

Not all heroes wear capes.

I confess I love our Alberta winters. I love the squeak my boots make on the snow on a cold night’s walk. I love the smack of pucks on boards at the community outdoor rink nearby.

I love being able to ski six months out of twelve. And I love the beers of winter. Brewers bring their A game with winter and holiday beers. Big, bold, flavourful Imperial stouts, barley wines and Belgian tripels. Beers flavoured with vanilla, nutmeg and cinnamon or aged in wood barrels. Beer buyers loosen the purse strings for the holidays, taking a chance on that thirty-dollar bottle of bucket list beer from Jester King or The Bruery. Best of all, we remember the spirit of the season: it’s about giving, it’s about generosity, it’s about community.

It’s remembering that in this wonderful life, all you can take with you is that which you’ve given away. Cheers and happy holidays!

Peter Bailey

Holiday pack The holidays are a marathon, not a sprint. Pace yourself, recharge and remember it’s about people, not things. And beer. It’s always about beer. Here are six craft beers to take you through the season, from November office parties to New Year’s Eve.

Baltus Van Tassel Cherry Sour, Calgary Be the hit of the block party with this American-style brown sour brewed with sweet and tart cherries. The fruit and sour will cut through the oil and fat of those Costco hors d’oeuvres your neighbour brought. Dandy Brewing claims this is the perfect companion to shorter days and colder weather. They’re right.

Spruce Tree Ale, Tofino, BC Is it too on the nose to match a beer brewed with actual spruce needles with decorating the Christmas tree? This bitter golden ale was made with fresh picked Sitka spruce tips but the piney taste is not overbearing. Tofino Brewing says to understand this beer you should walk into the rainforest, quiet your mind and breathe in deeply.

We’ll make do sitting by the Christmas tree with a pint.

The Abyss, Bend, OR Have a beer geek in your life? Nothing would make them happier than a bottle of special beer under the Christmas tree. Perhaps a big beer like this deep, dark Imperial stout from Deschutes Brewing. The 2017 version (available now) has six different malts, four different hops, added molasses, liquorice, vanilla beans, and cherry bark, and was aged for a year in Bourbon whiskey barrels.

3 Year Belgian Tripel, Lacombe, AB A special meal deserves a special beer. Blindman Brewing created a fine Belgian-style tripel in honour of their third anniversary. Tripels like this excellent version are strong (8.7 per cent) golden ales with a fruit-forward taste, a bit of sweetness and malt. It will pair well with Christmas turkey, cranberry and all the other things happening on a busy holiday table.

Polar Night Chocolate Porter, Edmonton Even after a big Christmas dinner my family is known and admired for our ability to hoover large amounts of chocolate from the table. This seasonal porter from Alley Kat Brewing is brewed with cocoa, so it will make a fine companion to chocolate hoovering, or other holiday desserts.

Happy Little Brut IPA, Surrey, BC Why should Champagne have all the fun? The hot new beer style in 2018 was brut IPA, basically Champagne-like beer that is dry (brut) and bubbly, thanks to the use of the amylase enzyme. Russell Brewing upped the game, fermenting with Saccharomyces Trois yeast and hopping with Vic Secret and Idaho 7 hops. A crisp, dry, bubbly beer with fruity notes, perfect for celebrating a New Year.

Peter Bailey is alive and well but not living in Bedford Falls.

He’s @libarbarian on Twitter and Instagram.

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A LEADING POLYTECHNIC COMMITTED TO The Tomato STUDENT | November December 2018 15 SUCCESS

wines from the rich uncle & the cash-strapped friend, 2018 edition We ask the folks who sell wine for a living for their top cheap and cheerful wine, the one (under $25) they would like from that friend with more taste than money and what they would like to find under the tree from their rich rellie. Wines from Portugal, Spain, Chile, Italy and France can be incredible value, whereas wines in the ‘if I win a million dollars’ category come from everywhere. But our crew seems to have a predilection for Port, Champers and Pinot Noir. Dive in!

Juanita Roos and Kelsey Roos, Color de Vino

Evan Watson, Bar Clementine

Cash-strapped Friend

Cash-strapped Friend

2017 Foradori Lèzer

2017 Marcel Lapierre Raisins

(Trentino, Italy) $28

Gaulois (Beaujolais, France) $23

Daniel Costa, Corso 32 Cash-strapped Friend 2017 De Angelis Pecorino (le Marche, Italy) $25

This is such a fantastic wine for the price. If you are up for the challenge, try making the traditional Marchigiana recipe Olive Ascolane which will pair perfectly with this wine. I really love the floral aroma and ripe yellow fruit with a good note of minerality.

Rich Uncle 2007 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Abruzzo, Italy) $210

Opening any Emidio Pepe wine is a celebration in itself but I particularly love this 2007 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Dark and rich with layers of pure intense fruit and notes of smoke, tobacco and earth.

16 November December 2018 | The Tomato

We would love to see a bottle of the amazing Italian natural wine made from the grape Teroldego under the tree. Elisabetta Foradori is a superstar winemaker and her son Theo spearheaded this project. A light and juicy red/rosé has flavours of wild red berries, plum, rhubarb, flowers and herbs—a fresh and delicious sipper.

Serve with anything, to anyone!

Rich Uncle 2014 Pétrus (Bordeaux, France) $3,500

If money isn’t an issue, we would be thrilled to unwrap a bottle of Pétrus—one of the most famous and iconic wines in the world. It’s a full-bodied and concentrated wine that’s famous for being full of pure red fruit flavours with the potential to cellar for decades.

This is a wine so full of joy and juicy cherry and cinnamon flavours that I would be honoured if my rich uncle decided to opt for it as well. Made from 100 per cent Gamay grapes from young vines in the Morgon Cru and the rest from Beaujolais AC. Chill it down for 30 minutes to be awed at the refreshing power of a true red vin de soif. It certainly helps that this is from one of the greatest natural wine estates of all time—it immediately reminds of the humble agricultural origins of wine and makes a strong closing argument for why wine should be considered the greatest condiment to food ever invented.

Rich Uncle 2007 Roagna Barbaresco Crichët Pajé (Piedmont, Italy) $930

Considering that winemaker Luca Roagna handpicks the grapes from 80 plus year-old vines in the famous Crichët portion of the Pajè Cru in Barbaresco—grapes grown within a wild woodland using zero herbicides, pesticides or fertilizer—ferments them through a long, traditional maceration using the natural yeasts

of the vineyard, before aging the wine in traditional botti (large neutral barrels) and cement tanks for 8-10 years, the $930 price tag begins to explain itself.

The Roagna family have been in the vanguard of preserving the tradition and terroir of their land, leaving almost half their holdings unplanted to grapes to foster true biodiversity. Drink it now, or over the next 30 years.

Dianna Funnell, Sherbrooke Liquor Store Cash-strapped friend Parés Baltà Brut Cava NV (Catalonia, Spain) $18

If my cash-strapped friend wants to bring me something, it could be this delicious Cava (Spain’s answer to Champagne). The blend of native grapes, Parellada, Macabeo and Xarel-lo, is dry, fresh and floral with lots of juicy fruit.

Rich Uncle Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Chinato NV (Piedmont, Italy) $83

I’ve been very good this year and I would like my rich uncle to bring me a bottle of the Cordero de Montezemolo Chinato. Each year, about 1,000 bottles of at least 10 years or older Barolos are blended in a single stainless steel tank.

Then quinine, sugar, alcohol and a secret infusion of spices are added to make a delicious aperitivo (or digestivo). It’s rich and warm with a spicy attitude. Just can’t get enough!

Patrick Saurette, The Marc Cash-strapped Friend 2015 Casa Silva Gran Terroir Los Lingues Carménère (Colchagua Valley, Chile) $21

Oh my goodness, if wine could speak this one would sound like Eartha Kit. Its smoky, deep character is loaded with dark fruits and, if paired with steakfrites, would purr c’est si bon.

Rich Uncle

Rich Uncle 2015 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge (Burgundy, France) $145

If you love Pinot as much as I do, this is a wine that will leave a lasting impression. The 2015 is one of the great red Burgundy vintages of the past three decades. The wine is incredible, with serious concentration, refined tannins, freshness and superb elegance.

Delicious now to 2035.

www.themarc.ca

@themarcedmonton

2014 Domaine Tawse CortonCharlemagne Grand Cru Côte de Beaune (Burgundy, France) $180

Total pedigree. Hand-made, biodynamic, worked by horse and plow—this is truly an old-school gnarly fingers and vines wine. This golden briny wine exhibits bracing acidity and a strong mineral backbone. Sit and share a bottle of this with your Grandpa, shuck some oysters and tell some lies together.

Paulette Scott, Pacific Wine & Spirits Cash-strapped Friend 2015 CVNE Viña Real Crianza Rioja (Rioja, Spain) $19

What’s not to love about wines from Spain and better yet wines from Rioja! Launched by CVNE in 1920, this is a very attractive Tempranillo; with an intensity of forest fruits, blackberries, wild cranberries, intermingling with black liquorice, vanilla and nutmeg. Smooth, balanced and oh so rewarding.

Grant Schneider, Aligra Wine & Spirits Cash-strapped Friend 2014 Torres Altos Ibéricos Crianza (Rioja, Spain) $20

This 100 per cent Tempranillo is an opaque cherry red with rich fruit aromas of cherry and black plum jam, spicy green peppercorn and smoky notes, along with firm tannins and subtle acidity. Great with tapas, oil-rich fish, Ibérico ham, red meats and cheeses. Serve slightly chilled.

Rich Uncle

FOR ALL YOUR HOLIDAY & PRIVATE EVENT NEEDS THIS SEASON

2013 Bodegas Escorihuela Gascón Don Malbec

cheese • wine+beer • espresso

(Mendoza, Argentina) $64

This iconic wine has won numerous awards; with fine tannins and juicy acidity, nicely underplayed spicy oak and very good balance. Still a little tight; decant for at least two hours.

10169 - 104 street | 780.455.1336 | info@thecavern.ca | @CavernYEG Please see “Wines” on next page.

The Tomato | November December 2018 17

Rich Uncle

Wines

2007 Liébart-Régnier

Continued from page 17.

Excelia Champagne 3L

Who doesn’t love vintage Champagne? This Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blend is wonderfully yeasty with complex fruit flavours. And with the large format jeroboam (three litres) there’s plenty for everyone.

2014 Cabriz Colheita Seleccionada (Dão, Portugal) $22

Quevedo Port Advent Calendar (Douro Valley, Portugal) $120

I love Port, so this box is perfect for me.

A selection of 10 different Ports in 50ml bottles: White, Rosé, Ruby, Tawny, Ruby Reserve, Tawny Reserve, 10-year, 20-year, Colheita 2000 and 2004. A great gift for any Port lover.

Tara Smith, Lanigan & Edwards Cash-strapped Friend 2017 Domaine Reine Juliette Picpoul de Pinet (Languedoc-Roussillion, France) $20

Picpoul is the white wine grape you didn’t know you wanted. The rich citrus peel and apple flavours, and the subtle minerality make this the perfect wine to sip before dinner with an array of munchies, or as a dinner wine that everyone will appreciate.

Cash-strapped friend

Cash-strapped friend

$400

Cash-strapped Friend

Rich Uncle

Maureen Zenari, Whitehall Agencies

(Champagne, France)

Nelson Gomes, FineVine Imports

Fresh red fruits, forest fruits, spices and toasted notes. Fruity, smooth, elegant and harmonious. One of my favourite wines due to its versatility—you can drink this wine by itself or with a variety of food. Pairs with soft cheese, fish, white and red meats and Mediterranean, Chinese, Indian and African cuisine.

Stacey-Jo Strombecky, Renaissance Wine Merchants

Ryan Everitt, Trialto Cash-strapped Friend 2016 Clos de Fous Pour Ma Gueule (Itata Valley, Chile) $23

Malbec, Syrah, Cinsault, Pais and Carménère are harvested by hand from selected old vines, dry-farmed in Itata and Cauquenes. The wine is fermented by the traditional artisan methods; grapes from every winegrower are harvested, fermented and aged separately, then blended to create this new fresh assemblage with a nose full of red berries, black cherry, black pepper and hints of violets. Those elements come through on the palate, with fresh black and red fruit, revealing a full-bodied wine. This wine opens generously, very silky and lush on the palate. Fine tannins and the excellent acidity enhance its liveliness and balance.

Rich Uncle 2016 Corton Grand Cru Clos des Corton Faiveley Monopole (Burgundy, France) $320

This vineyard was purchased in 1872 and Faiveley is the only living family whose name is part of a Grand Cru appellation. Refined, with a floral and raspberry nose. Very fine, pure, fruity and expressive with great acidity. Subtle oak from one year in a Taransaud barrel.

Perfumed and pretty with seriousness.

18 November December 2018 | The Tomato

Conde de Caralt Brut

2016 Guarda Rios Red

Cava NV (Catalonia,

(Alentejo, Portugal) $16

Spain) $24

This is a little wine that packs a punch. The blend of Aragonêz, Syrah, Trincadeira and Alicante Bouschet is full of mouth-watering bright red fruit, fresh acidity, soft tannins and a long lingering finish. Easy to drink and easy on the wallet.

Some days I sound like a broken record; bubbles, bubbles, bubbles. Since I can’t afford a Patsy & Eddie Champagne lifestyle, I rely on great bubbles from other parts of the world to fill in the gaps. This Cava has classic citrusy aromas, is mildly yeasty, with bright acidity and is fresh and tangy without being searingly dry. Think about a fun spread of appetizers with salty and spicy flavours and a bottle of this Cava with friends. Or maybe two.

Rich Uncle 2007 Bollinger Grande Année (Champagne, France) $200

What a surprise, bubbles again! I have been insanely fortunate to taste this wine a few times and the same thought comes to me every time: ‘This is what I want Champagne to taste like every time I drink it.’ The Grande Année sees seven-ten years of ageing and is made with close to 100 per cent Grand Cru fruit. Bollinger keeps the dosage low which helps create a laser-like tension and the age is highlighted by the bready notes of brioche. Ripe peach, almond and honey notes play on the tongue. My mouth is watering just thinking about it. Will it age? Sure. Will it last that long at my house? Likely not.

Rich Uncle 2015 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia (Bolgheri, Italy) $225

A super-Tuscan blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Every vintage of this iconic wine garners lavish praise and big scores from the critics. The 2015 vintage is no exception.

Elegant aromas and flavours of ripe black and red fruit, cedar and spice notes.

The mouthfeel is graceful and silky with wonderfully ripe and finely textured tannins, followed by a long and memorable finish.

Valerie Albrecht, Enotri Wine Marketing Cash-strapped Friend 2016 Andreas Bender Weißburgunder (Mosel, Germany) $23

Flavours of ripe yellow stone fruit and apple together with notes of elderflower. The vines are more than 30 years old, extraordinary fruit.

Add to this the artistry of Andreas Bender— including a ferment in old oak barrels, which creates concentration and a creamy texture that makes one salivate for more. Have with halibut wrapped in prosciutto, baked in the oven and served with butter shallot jus. Don’t miss trying this enticing drop of the Mosel.

Rich Uncle

Rich Uncle

2008 Pasetti Harimann

2016 Johanneshof Reinisch

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

Grillenhügel Pinot Noir

(Abruzzo, Italy) $75

(Thermenregion, Austria) $50

Cash-strapped friend

We were welcomed to the Pasetti’s estate with an enticing treat of local appetizers served in front of a warm fire.

A five-course dinner followed with each wine raising the bar. When the final red was poured from the decanter, I breathed in its alluring aromas and was instantly in love. In the glass was 100 per cent Montepulciano, from their oldest vines (40+ years) in Pescosansonesco, in the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga national park.

The wine is aged for fiveplus years in a steel tank, French barrique and bottle. Intense aromas of berries, red fruits (cherry and black cherry) and Christmas cake. The inviting palate has flavours of cherry and plums and persistent hints of jam, coffee, chocolate and liquorice. Toasted and spicy touches enhance the full body and warm texture while the sweet tannins extend into a long, lingering finish. Decant before serving for the full effect.

While I’m on the topic of Pinot Noir, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention this single vineyard bottling from Johanneshof Reinisch. Reinisch is known as one of Austria’s top Pinot producers; the family-owned, organically-farmed vineyard is located in the Thermenregion, just south of Vienna, where the soil and weather conditions are ideal for growing Pinot Noir. This wine has complexity, depth of fruit and great balance and freshness, demonstrating the incredible value of premium wines from this country.

2015 Evel Tinto (Douro Valley,

Christina Masciangelo, Salivate Wine Consulting Cash-strapped Friend 2015 Soli Pinot Noir (Thracian Valley, Bulgaria) $23

How often can you get an intriguing Pinot Noir for under $25?

Not often, I say. And a Bulgarian Pinot—who knew?

An Italian visionary with vineyards in his home country saw the potential of this eastern European country.

The Soli Pinot Noir is a value-driven, varietally identifiable wine that will delight both the novice and discerning Pinot drinker. It has a subtle touch of oak and ripe, delicious fruit flavours.

Budget-conscious Pinot lovers rejoice!

a hint of some mineral. It covers all the bases—a delicious, award-winning, environmentally and health conscious, budget- and food-friendly wine. We love to give or get this wine.

Michael Fregren, Artisan Wines

Portugal) $22

Here we are again with yet another stunning value wine from Portugal. Only one year removed from their #50 ranking as Wine Spectator 2017 Top 100 Wines, this blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo) is fresh and juicy, yet complex and absolutely delicious. Think of this wine as your everyday pizza, pasta and burger wine!

Rich Uncle 2015 Montevetrano Core Rosso di Campania IGT (Campania, Italy) Magnum in wooden case, $120 (750 ml $45)

Magnums, especially in wooden cases, scream perfect prezzie! Better yet, it’s a multi-award-winning wine that’s brimming with layered flavours. Here is what wine writer James Suckling had to say: ‘94 pts…plenty of exotic fruit and liquorice as well as clove undertones. Full body and lots of berry character. Hints of dried tea. Loving it.’

Rich Uncle Niepoort Crusted Port (Douro Valley, Portugal)

Marcia J. Hamm, Hicks Fine Wines Cash-strapped Friend 2016 Bodegas Navarro López Rojo Tempranillo (Valdepeñas, Spain) $16

Our friend may not have the money, but their taste is impeccable. Spain has some of the best high-quality-to-low-price ratio wines out there and Navarro López is the king of these wines! Tempranillo is Spain’s favourite grape; expect to find flavours of red plums and red cherries in this one. Open, pour, repeat.

Rich Uncle 2014 Toscano Ferro Dei Collazzi (Tuscany, Italy) $135

Rich uncle Bob has outdone himself with this one. This 100 per cent Petit Verdot from the Collazzi winery in Tuscany is totally unique and unforgettable. This Tuscan is super not only because it’s one of the most impressive estates in all of Tuscany, but also because of the grape. Typically, a blending grape, Petit Verdot provides the backbone and deep dark colour to many a Bordeaux wine along with spice notes, Marasca cherry and cocoa. Give it time to open up in a decanter if you choose to open now and enjoy, or it has the ability to age for 20-30 years.

$40

Something new, or should I say old, for you Port drinkers out there.

If you have never had a Crusted Port, you are in for a real treat.

Essentially, Crusted Port is a high-quality Reserve Ruby Port, unfined and unfiltered (which we all know strips flavour from the wine), serving as an affordable alternative to Vintage Ports at a fraction of the price. It was developed for the UK market for people to drink while they were waiting for their Vintage Port to come of age.

Barb Giacomin, WineQuest Cash-strapped Friend 2017 Navarro López Para Celsus Organic Old Vines Tempranillo (Valdepeñas, Spain) $18

Named for 15th century Swiss alchemist, physician and promoter of natural healing who said it’s the dosage that makes something either a poison or a remedy. A delicious dose of this is a remedy. Organically grown old vines impart pure flavours of juicy dark and red berries with

Caitlin Fulton, RGE RD Cash-strapped Friend 2016 Château des Charmes Gamay Noir Droit (Niagara Peninsula, Ontario) $20

This Gamay Noir, a juicy, easygoing wine that pairs with light and dark meat alike, is an ideal match for turkey dinners and Christmas ham, not to mention all the fixings. The clone, from pioneering producers Château des Charmes, also has the unique designation of being one of Canada’s first indigenous vinifera. Called droit for the way the grape grows upward on the vine, it also ripens later than typical Gamay resulting in a bolder and more concentrated wine. Plenty of dark red fruit mingling with smoke and earthy flavours, finishes spicy—something for everyone. No wonder we like it at RGE RD, this wine is well matched with mushrooms and game coming straight out of the wood-burning oven.

Rich Uncle 2014 Martin’s Lane Winery Pinot Noir Simes Vineyard (Okanagan Valley, British Columbia) $100

Why not produce iconic wine here in Canada? Why not aspire to Grand Cru heights in our humble backyard?

Please see “Wines” on next page.

The Tomato | November December 2018 19

Chocolate ganache... & praline tart with raspberries?

Whatever you’re having...

We’ve Got a Wine for That!

West Edmonton Mall • Entrance 58

780.483.103 • www.aligrawineandspirits.com

@Aligrawine facebook.com/aligrawine

Wines Continued from page 19.

Martin’s Lane Winery is nothing short of world-class in its vision and execution from its six-storey, gravity-fed facility by architect Tom Kundig, to its detailobsessed winemaker, Shane Munn.

While he cut his teeth in Burgundy and Barolo, here Munn is devoted to the specificity of Okanagan geography, geology and climate. Producing only Pinot Noir and Riesling from several distinct micro-blocks on estate vineyards, these wines are the purest expression of place. This Pinot Noir from the Simes Vineyard features bright raspberry and cherry fruit and persistent minerality. It is likely the most serious and elegant Canadian Pinot Noir I’ve experienced.

labels created in the early ’70s by a group of artists who regularly shared wine and food with the Vietti family.

2015 Vietti Nebbiolo Perbacco (Piedmont, Italy) $37

Luca Currado Vietti declassified some Barolo and Barbaresco juice to create an affordable taste of the majestic Nebbiolo. When he first tasted this wine with his mother, her reaction was ‘perbacco!’ which loosely translates as ‘damn good wine!’

Dix Richards, Bin 104 Cash-strapped friend

Anita Jarmolicz, International Cellars Cash-strapped Friend 2015 Tommasi Arele Appassimento (Veneto, Italy) $22

SAMPLING WINE EVERY SATURDAY (780) 439-9069 | colordevino.ca | 9606 82 Ave Edmonton

For those who love Amarone but cannot afford the price tag, I suggest Arele Apassimento. Made from one-third dried Amarone grapes, it offers hints of dried fig, ripe cherry and prunes finishing with pepper spice. Easy to enjoy, it will entice you to splurge for the real deal—Amarone.

Rich Uncle

You can make the holiday happen for an Edmontonian in need.

You know them, but not what they’re going through.

Donate today at ChristmasBureau.ca

20 November December 2018 | The Tomato

NEIGHBOUR

2014 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito (Piedmont, Italy) $240

Vietti’s most modern interpretation of single vineyard Barolo. Intensely aromatic, the Lazzarito is deep garnet with notes of ripe berry preserves, tobacco and truffles. It is not for the faint of heart, with 30 months of ageing in French and Slovenian oak, but has beautiful richness, power and finesse. I also love the timeless

El Dorado Golden Rum Cream Liqueur (Guyana) $25

This sumptuous, creamy rum liqueur will most definitely be in my coffee mug Christmas morning. Enticing aromas of nutmeg and vanilla, with delightful flavours of caramel and toffee that will tickle your taste buds. Simply delicious.

Rich Uncle 2008 Numanthia (Toro, Spain) $77

With the sweet aromas of cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice, this 100 per cent Tempranillo is a gentle reminder that the holiday season is upon us. Black plum, figs and clove frolic across your palate, while the flavours of your favourite Christmas pudding fills you with warmth and cheer.

Happy Holidays!

Deb Pirker, Andrew Peller Import Agency Cash-strapped Friend 2017 Marqués de Cáceres Verdejo (Rueda, Spain) $15

There are fabulous Spanish wines to be discovered that are such a great value,

that, whether-cash strapped or not, they have to be tried. This wine displays real Verdejo character with intense, racy flavours of green apple and lemon peel, such a flavourful finish.

tradition of treading grapes barefoot.

Bright, black cherry fruit and ripe soft tannins deliver a smooth, silky mouthfeel.

Rich Uncle

Octavius Old Vine

2014 Emmolo Merlot

Shiraz (Barossa,

(Napa, California) $68

Australia) $180

Lush, full-bodied, superrich Emmolo definitely stands out as a bigger example of this grape variety. Expansive dark berry flavours, fresh earthiness and smooth leathery tannins, it’s the complete package. Put it under my tree, please!

This inky dark Shiraz has layers of dark cherry fruit with notes of plum and chocolate. I feel it is best consumed after 15-20 years in the bottle.

Rich Uncle 2013 Yalumba the

GRO

G WIN

CO

RF LO U

UL

AS IDE

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YD VER

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cafe gifts cool plants bouquets to go greenhouse parties tabletop surprises

Lisa Caputo, Cibo Bistro Cash-strapped Friend 2017 Medici Phermento

Nicole Brandt, Wilfred’s Cash-strapped Friend 2017 Gruber Röschitz Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel, Austria) $23

Beautifully simple and complex at the same time, a real crowd pleaser that pairs with everything.

Rich Uncle 2012 Elio Altare Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) $110

Extremely aromatic and perfectly balanced aromas of cherry and floral. It’s wonderful to experience how it changes in the glass over time.

Rob Filipchuk, The Glass Monkey Cash-strapped Friend 2015 Bodegas Artuke Pies Negros (Rioja, Spain) $25

A beautiful blend of 90 per cent Tempranillo and 10 per cent Graciano, the name of this organic wine, Pies Negros (black foot) pays tribute to the

(Emila Romagna) $23

With all the craze in Edmonton around natural wines I was excited to finally find one that was more fresh than funky with the complexity that I crave in old world wines.

This delicious, naturally fermented Phermento is made from the Sorbara Lambrusco grape. It’s a pretty blush colour, dry and tangy with notes of berries and a fine creamy bubble. Note the fuchsia pink sediment at the bottom of the bottle. Pairs with charcuterie, simple snacks, spicy cheesy pizza or nothing at all.

IN LIT TLE ITALY AT 10826 - 95 ST, EDMONTON, AB OPEN: MON-WED 9-6, TH-FRI 9-8, SAT 9-6, SUN 11-5

TEL: 780. 428.0754 WWW.ZOCALO.CA

Rich Uncle 2014 Petrolo Galatrona Valdarno di Sopra DOC (Tuscany, Italy) $155

Poor Merlot and its bad rap for sometimes creating uninteresting wines. The Galatrona will make you think twice.

Full bodied, with rich, juicy, complex flavours of blackberry, dark chocolate and vanilla and chewy tannins. Best to cellar for a few years until it’s ready to share with those who appreciate a good bottle of wine. Enjoy with roasted venison or bison roast or simply sip after dinner with hard cheeses and good conversation amongst friends.

The Tomato | November December 2018 21

Wine Maven Mikael Falkman of Champagne Taittinger is one of our favourite people in wine— urbane, knowledgeable and truly a lover of the Champagne region. “Taittinger’s style is all about freshness and elegance,” he says. “Our fruit comes from 35 different cru with over half coming from our own vineyards (we are the largest landowner in Champagne).” Start with the Brut NV for a terrific example of the house style and continue on with the Prelude, arguably one of the best value for money wines around. The Prelude spends five years on the lees, is made from all Grand Cru fruit and although it is called NV, it is actually from the 2012 vintage. The wine has abundant floral aromas, is rich with notes of brioche and savoury flavours with a long and balanced finish. And don’t forget spiffy gift boxes are available for all Taittinger Champagne.

You may find your next cocktail at Woodwork or Three Boars is made with a non-alcoholic spirit called Seedlip. The unique flavours and aromas arise from a proprietary distillation process similar to gin making.

The result? A bracing tonic with pure, intense flavours, yet, without the alcohol.

It’s now available in three styles—the woodsy Spice 94, the floral Garden 108 and the new citrusy Grove 42, made with bitter orange, mandarin, blood orange, lemongrass, ginger and lemon. It’s warm, sunny and uplifting flavours will make you forget about the dark days of winter ahead. Available at Sherbrooke Liquor, in the gin section, Maven & Grace and at the Italian Centre South, $45.

The last time we talked about the clever and delicious gummies made with Prosecco we had heaps of calls and emails.

Let’s just say there are more of these adult-only candies around this time and, bonus, they are in a bigger container! Sugar Sin Classic Prosecco Gummies in a jar, $20, available at Bella Casa, Bon Ton Bakery, Italian Centre Shops North and South and Maven & Grace.

22 November December 2018 | The Tomato

“We’re known as a traditional winery from Argentina, but we are actually on the vanguard,” says Pablo Cúneo, the engaging head winemaker at Luigi Bosca. “We have the passion and the knowledge to do things—like being the first Argentine winery to launch Sauvignon Blanc. We were pioneers in establishing the Malbec DOC and we were the first to do Bordeaux-style blends in the higher end wines.”

Their vineyards are in the prized parts of Mendoza—Luján de Cuyo, Maipú and the Uco Valley. Luigi Bosca arranges its wine in several collections each having a particular message, from every-day drinking to world-class wines suitable for aging. The best part?

Even the iconic wines are great value. “It’s easy to make wine in Argentina, due to the climate. We have intelligent, innovative people and healthy grapes from great sites.”

Mary Bailey Dinner at The Butternut Tree with Ruinart Champagne exceeded every expectation. Scott Downey’s cooking is precise yet approachable. His coast to coast menu began with east coast oysters and seaweed and carried on with Quebec duck, west coast mushrooms and prairie vegetables. Really fine. I love Ruinart for its elegance and subtlety. The wines are made with a high proportion of Chardonnay (or all Chardonnay in the Blanc de Blanc) and are characterized by a fine bubble, loads of chalky mineral along with a sense of a sea breeze—a briny fresh quality—and citrus in the flavours. Ruinart Brut began the evening, followed by the Blanc de Blanc NV, Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blanc 2004 and the Rosé.

The 2004 was a deeper, richer, more savoury expression of Chardonnay, which paired beautifully with chef Downey’s mushroom dish. The robust Rosé (made with 20 per cent Pinot) was a slam dunk with the tender, juicy and flavourful duck. “The style of Ruinart could be summed up in two words— aromatic freshness,” says Brent Sutcliffe, brand ambassador for Ruinart.

“In Piedmont it’s the Barbera and Dolcetto we drink every day,” says Claudio Viberti talking about the wines his family produces, “and making a good Barbera is harder than making Barolo. Power is easy, elegance is the hard part.” The Barbera is fun and juicy, very fresh, with blueberry notes and vibrant acidity.

The Dolcetto d’Alba Superiore is also juicy, with lovely violet and Amarela cherry notes and sweet ripe fruit. The Langhe Nebbiolo possesses a pure expression of the fruit.

The Buon Padre Barolo is attractively lean, with lively acidity and a long finish. Here’s to drinking wine like the Piemontese.

Top: Ruinart on ice at The Butternut Tree dinner; above: Butternut chef Scott Downey; left: Pablo Cúneo of Luigi Bosca; below: Lisa Tinturini from La Magia.

EVENT CALENDAR WED, NOVEMBER 7 The Taste of the Languedoc Gerard Bertrand Wine Dinner Wildflower Grill, 780-990-1938

TUES, NOVEMBER 13 Port Wars Wine Dinner The Workshop Eatery, 780-705-2205

TUES, NOVEMBER 20 Bordeaux Tasting with Bill Medak Color de Vino, colordevino@gmail.com

THURS, NOVEMBER 22 Australian and New Zealand Tasting, Elisabeth Muir, Negociants Everything Wine, 780-417-3356

SAT, DECEMBER 1 Color de Vino Open House Color de Vino, 780-439-9069

Lovers of the Sangiovese grapes will eventually be seduced

by Brunello. The hill town of Montalcino in southern Tuscany is surrounded by the vineyards of the Brunello region. La Magia is new to Alberta but not new to Brunello. “We started in 1974,” says Lisa Tinturini from La Magia; “there were 20 wineries. Now there are over 200.

“We don’t have vineyards here, vineyards there. We have 15 hectares in one plot, all Sangiovese, all certified to Brunello and certified organic. The Rosso Montalcino is coming from there too, from the younger vines, replanted 10 years ago.” says Lisa.

We tasted the 2014 Rosso di Montalcino, the 2013 Brunello and the 2012 Brunello Riserva at a dinner at Kitchen by Brad.

The wines are elegant, balanced and transparent in their communication of vintage and terroir. The Rosso, pure Sangiovese, juicy and easy to drink. The 2013 Brunello was delicious and the Reserva is brooding, powerful, with high acidity and ripe, not chalky tannins. “If you can wait, drink in 10-12 years,” says Lisa. “2012 was a perfect vintage. 2013 was a bit more humid and the wines are more approachable, ready to drink now.”

WED, DECEMBER 5 Liquor Select Open House Liquor Select, 780-481-6868

THUR, DECEMBER 6 Hicks Open House Hicks Fine Wines, 780-569-5000

THURS, DECEMBER 6 Aligra Wine & Spirits Open House Aligra Wine & Spirits aligrawineandspirits.com

WED, DECEMBER 12 Bubbles Galore!! Festive Sparkling Wines, Color de Vino colordevino@gmail.com

THURSDAYS IN DECEMBER Cibo Big Bottle Thursdays Cibo Bistro, 780-757-2426 Find the wines at Aligra, Campbell’s, Color de Vino, DeVine Wines, Keg and Cork and other fine wine shops.

Not all wines available in all stores.

The Tomato | November December 2018 23

Under the Tree Looking for stocking stuffers, hostess gifts, condiments for the holidays, a treat for yourself or a big-time gift like a Staub cocotte? Find them here.

Barú Chocolate Powders Barú is a Belgian company that plays on the Belgian chocolate heritage in a playful and modern way. Their hot chocolate mixes are dreamy. Each has a surprise in store from mini figures in dark chocolate and pieces of salted caramel to mini marshmallows, making every sip a delight. They also taste very real—no artificial flavours for this company. Find the Peppermint Chocolate Powder and the Salty Caramel Drinking Chocolate at all the Italian Centre Shops and Bella Casa, $10 each.

Lakrids by Johan Bülow Lakrids, our favourite liquorice from Scandinavia, is back in three new flavours, Caramel Rouge, Dark Sea Salt and the Salty Caramel Choc. Find at the Italian Centre South, $15.

Opies Pickled Walnuts Let Opies Pickled Walnuts with Ruby Port transform your cheese board from nice to spectacular. The walnuts are picked while still green, before the shells are formed, then pickled in red wine vinegar with ruby Port. Made in Britain.

Stocked at the Italian Centre Shops South and North, $15.

Staub Artichoke Cocotte

HUNDREDS OF WINES FOOD PAIRINGS SILENT AUCTION LIVE PAINTER

10 th a nniversary

The perfect stocking stuffer!

2019 / 02 / 09 loveofwin e . c a PRESENTED BY

24 November December 2018 | The Tomato

Joining the Tomato and the Pumpkin of the Staub Garden Series is the Artichoke cocotte—it might be the most gorgeous yet. The intricately patterned, rich basil green exterior and matte black enamel interior has a smooth base compatible with all cooktops, including induction; it’s oven safe to 500ºF and the lids are designed to self-baste. The durable finish of the interior won’t discolor, scratch, rust or chip and is ready to use—no seasoning required. Made in France and stocked at Bella Casa, Heart of the Home, The Pan Tree, Barb’s Kitchen Centre and other fine housewares retailers, 3 litre cocotte, $350.

Prepara Taco Holder These cheerful taco holders from Prepara will ramp up your taco game. Also available are matching taco warmers, spoons, and a three-section condiment tray in the same colourful patterns. Find the taco holders at Heart of the Home, The Wired Cup and Gifts and Gadgets, $11.

Mary Bailey

artisan food market

charcuterie, sausages, & preserves The trusted charcuterie supplier for over 30 Edmonton restaurants our retail market is now open on 124th St!

Metal Straws Cut down on plastic even in a small way with shiny metal straws that come with their own cleaning wand, just in case you were wondering ‘how do I wash them’?

Set of four/$10, at the Italian Centre South, The Wired Cup, Bella Casa and Zocalo.

587.786.3560 | www.meuwlys.com | 10706 124th St.

Copper Tapas Collection We like this copper tapas collection at Zocalo. Three pieces for warm hors d’oeuvres, such as roasted olives, cheesy crab spread or bagna cauda. Irresistible for the copper collector, $45 each.

DAY S O F CHRISTMAS P R I VAT E & C O R P O R AT E N OW B O O K I N G F O R A L L , H O L I DAY PA R T I E S L A R G E A N D S M A L L

B OO K YO U R H O LI DAY PA RT I E S B EFO R E I T ’ S TOO L AT E! T E RW I L L E GA R 78 0 . 395 . 1119 | S T A L B E R T 78 0 . 569. 1819

D I N E N I N E T E E N .CO M

The Tomato | November December 2018 25

Canada’s Great Kitchen Party: Edmonton

Podium finishers from left to right are Serge Belair (silver), the first Edmonton woman to win the title, Davina Moraiko (gold) and Scott Downey (bronze).

Newbies sweep the podium at the first Edmonton Kitchen Party Gold: Davina Moraiko, chef de cuisine, RGE RD Silver: Serge Belair, executive chef, Shaw Conference Centre Bronze: Scott Downey, chef/owner, The Butternut Tree Gold Medal Plates raised over 15 million for Olympic athletes over a decade. Now, Canada’s Great Kitchen Party has taken over where Gold Medal Plates left off, and will continue to celebrate Canadian excellence in food, drink, music and sports. This year’s inaugural event, October 17, featured six returning and four new competitors all vying for a spot at the national Canadian Culinary Championships.

Gold Medal: Davina Moraiko

26 November December 2018 | The Tomato

Silver Medal: Serge Belair

Davina Moraiko’s dish was deceptively simple—in cool greens and browns—a round of blood sausage studded with pearl barley and lardo, in a pool of eggy, cidery hollandaise, surrounded by a tangle of lightly-fermented crisp green cabbage. Tiny honeycrisp apple cubes added crunch and sweetness along with a really delicious gel of kale and roasted onion. The dish was superbly balanced and complete, wanting for nothing, paired with the 2016 Red Rooster Riesling, a full-bodied Alsationstyle wine which found its home in the richness of the dish and the sauerkrautlike cabbage. (My top pairing.)

“When they said gold, I said what?” says Davina. “I went into it wanting to stay true to what I do every day. That blood sausage? I have been working on it for about a year. Super proud of it, super proud of the team.”

Serge Belair’s dish was true to his Quebecois roots, featuring pork, maple syrup and tourtière. He brought the house down with the crisp pastrywrapped, golf ball-sized nuggets of moist tourtière deliciousness (I hope the Shaw sells these by the dozen this Christmas).

The Bear and the Flower pork is dry aged in the Shaw’s special room; chef served it as a lovely slab of lean and tender maple-glazed loin on a velvety celeriac puree.

Chef Scott Downey’s Haida Gwaii sable fish was impeccably cooked, with the layers falling away at the touch of a fork (that is hard to do for one person; imagine doing it for over 600

people?) and tasting of both woods and sea. The poaching butter, infused with chanterelles, lobster mushrooms, woodruff and sea truffle was then dried, providing crunchy little bits of flavour.

Potato, both sautéed little cubes, and a wonderfully silky purée nestling the fish, and strands of citrusy samphire finished the dish. All in all, heaven for fish lovers.

There was a lot of variety on the plates this year and, surprisingly, no beef.

Two dishes featured octopus, by rising stars JP Dublado of Seorak and Levi Biddlecomb of Why Not Café. And the judges were wowed by the playful and beautiful rosy pink goat cheese dish (entirely coloured by beets) by Buco Windermere’s Medi Tabtoub, named for his daughter. He had us at Mon Joséphine.

Monies raised from Canada’s Great Kitchen Party supports Community Food Centres Canada, which helps at risk children learn about healthy eating and food careers; provides musical instruments for 20 children each year through MusiCounts and creates funding for elite amateur athletes and their coaches via the sports non-profit, B2ten.

Davina Moraiko will compete against the other regional winners at the Canadian Culinary Championships in Kelowna in February. Go Davina!

Mary Bailey is the editor of The Tomato and a Canada’s Great Kitchen Party judge.

OPENING WINTER 2018 Bronze Medal: Scott Downey

OLIVER EXHANGE | 12019 102 AVENUE VISIT CULINAFAMILY.COM FOR INFO

The Tomato | November December 2018 27

Kitchen Sink restaurant buzz Dine at The Butternut Tree (9707 110 Street, 780-760-2271) before the holidays to enjoy the festive views of the Leg at Christmas. Or, on NYE, with two seatings—early (5pm, 5:30pm, 6pm) and late (8:30pm, 9pm, 9:30pm) to ring in the New Year with a feature tasting menu and views of the fireworks. Regular hours until Saturday, December 22, closed December 23-27, then open December 28, 29, 31. Closed January 1-10. Call to reserve or book on Open Table.

The Hardware Grill (9698 Jasper Avenue, 780-423-0969) will be open until 11pm every night during Grey Cup Week, November 21-24. During that week, Jasper Avenue is a street party (zipline anyone?) and will be closed to traffic from 96 Street to 99 Street and 97 Street to 101A Avenue. Dinner guests are advised to book ahead and encouraged to leave the car at home. Hardware Grill holiday hours are: closed December 23– 27, open December 28–31 and closed January 1–3.

The Cavern (10169 104 Street, 780-4551336) offers two seatings for NYE, 5pm to 8pm and from 9pm to Happy New Year! The four-course menu is $95/p, or $170/p with wine pairings. Bubbles will definitely be involved. Call Cavern to book.

Culina to Go (12019A 102 Avenue) in the new Oliver Exchange Building is happening! They expect to be open in December, for tasty to-go options like their famous TV dinners, catering pickups, and, they have an event space.

Can’t wait.

the schnitzel dinner for $12 or a schnitzel sandwich, $8, along with a glass of featured wine, $9 or beer, $5-$7.

Cibo Bistro (11244 104 Avenue, 780757-2426) has a new fall menu featuring classic dishes such as tagliatelle Bolognese and a version of the Roman dish rigatoni pajata made with 24-hour braised tripe mixed with house-made pork and fennel sausage and herbed ricotta in tomato sauce. Cibo Bistro will be closed December 25-January 7, regular hours resume Tuesday, January 8.

product news Fan Fan Pâtisserie (10330 80 Avenue, 587-524-9899) will offer traditional tourtière starting December 1. They use Acme Meats for their version of this delicious Quebecois holiday dish, $29 for 9-inch pie. Call or drop in to the shop (and pick up a pain au chocolate while you are at it) to order.

Nancy Facchin-Belle of Delight Catering has developed a line of glutenfree and diabetic-friendly condiments, hot sauces, barbecue sauces, jams and jellies, such as the delicious Saskatoon Berry Barbecue Sauce. The hot sauces come in mild, medium and hot. Prices range from $7.50-$10.50, call Nancy to order 780-446-0934. Delight also offers in-home cooking classes all delivered with Nancy’s friendly and easy approach.

OEB (10174 100A Street, 587-5200936) lands sunny side up on Rice Howard Way. The Calgary breakfast phenom opens in early November in the redeveloped Kelley Ramsay building.

Think potatoes in duck fat, blue plate specials, breakfast poutines and really great sandwiches. Dig in!

Meuwly’s (10706 124 Street, 587-7863560) comes to the rescue during the hols with smoked, boneless honey ham in two sizes and a really delish smoked ½-turkey.

Check out their gift baskets chock full of their house-made goodies, from $20$120. For the meat lovers on your list, consider a subscription to Meulwly’s Secret Meat Club. Or, be a rock star and order one of their charcuterie platters (salami, deli and cured meats, pâté) for gatherings. Closed December 24-26, with extended hours on December 23 for pickups and last-minute gifts.

Tuesday nights are Schnitzel Nights at The Manor Bistro (10109 125 Street, 780-482-7577) with special prices. Enjoy

Trying to use less plastic? Find environmentally friendly items such as the Chico reusable mesh produce

28 November December 2018 | The Tomato

bags, set/three, $20; Greenpaxx silicone straws, set/four, $17; Ziptuck reusable silicone food bags, set/two, $13 and Danica reusable water bottles, $32, at the Pantree (#550, 220 Lakeland Drive, Sherwood Park, 780-464-4631).

We found the most delicious almonds.

Alemany Carmelized Almonds are Marcona almonds caramelized with honey, from Catalonia, Spain, $13.

Available at all three Italian Centre shops, the BonTon Bakery, Careit Urban Deli, Heart of the Home and Maven & Grace.

The Alemany Dark Chocolate version is also $13, stocked at Italian Centre South and North, Heart of the Home and Paddy’s Cheese. Yum. Walking into Zocalo (10826 95 Street, 780-428-0754) is always a delight for the design obsessed. We loved the 100 per cent linen tea towels with charming prints from Canadian textile company, Rain Goose, $18 each; contemporary copper and gold tea spoons, designed in Scotland by The Slate Company, $39/four. Beeswax has antibacterial and antifungal properties that make it a great alternative to plastic wrap—the Sweet Green Studio handmade reusable beeswax food wraps come in a pack of three $32, single $12.

Knifewear’s (10820 Whyte Avenue, 587521-2034) Fall Garage Sale is happening November 5-11. Check it out for some great deals—rare knives, one-of-a-kind prototypes, budget knives and other unique knives handmade in Japan.

Heart of the Home (12539 102 Avenue, 780-705-4928) has their annual Days of Christmas Sale from December 10-21.

As well, check out the Gourmet Guide on their website for deals and specials on all Zwilling J.A. Henckels products.

Holiday hours from December 6-24: Monday, Wednesday and Saturdays, 10am-5:30pm (December 24 and 31, close at 3pm); Thursday, Friday, 10am-8pm, Sundays, 12-4pm. Closed December 26 and 27.

Bella Casa (9646 142 Street, 780-4374190) stocks beautiful edibles for the holidays—special chocolates, fruitcake,

shortbreads and the outstanding Scottish condiments from Mrs. Bridges: Christmas Chutney, Peach and Prosecco Preserve, a Christmas Marmalade made with cranberries and ginger and Cranberry Sauce. Excellent little gifts, ideal things for your own gift baskets.

The Cavern’s (10169 104 Street, 780455-1336, VIP Christmas Shopping is back on Sunday, December 16. Bookings are available from 10am-6pm for a personalized VIP Experience to create cheese courses and charcuterie boards with serious wow factor. Enjoy nibbles and bubbles too. Call or email info@ thecavern.ca to book.

Representatives from Italian cheese producer Fior di Maso in Thiene, north of Vicenza, will be visiting the Italian Centre Shops November 9-11. The company makes cheeses of the region, such as Asiago and Montasio. They will offer samples of new cheeses such as the San Pio X, Bastardo del Grappa. As well, don’t miss Emily Richards, author of the Per La Famiglia cookbook, at the Italian Centre South on November 15.

Start a new tradition this Christmas— lamb. Trevor Riehl and Ryan Carroll took over Trevor’s grandparents farm near Leduc a few years ago and named it Haywire Farm. Both in health care, they realized they had an opportunity to help create the food system they desired— local, organic, holistic—on the family farm. Check out their website and blog and order some delicious local lamb, haywirefarms.ca.

Kitchen by Brad’s, (10130 105 Street, 780-757-7704) Annual Christmas Sale is Friday, December 21, from 9am-5pm.

Visit kitchenbybrad.ca for more info.

wine tastings happenings and events Cibo Bistro (11244 104 Avenue, 780-757-2426) celebrates their seventh anniversary with a specially priced fivecourse tasting menu from November 6-10, $70/p. Add wine pairings for $30/p. That’s a great deal!

what’s new and notable The Taste of the Languedoc Gerard Bertrand Wine Dinner with Nicolas Galy, Wednesday, November 7, 6pm, at the Wildflower Grill (10009 107 Street, 780-990-1938). Enjoy four wines with four courses. Tix: $95++/p, on Eventbrite or call Wildflower.

The Port Wars Wine Dinner with special guest Cynthia Opsal is at The Workshop Eatery (2003 91 Street SW, 780-705-2205) 6pm, Tuesday, November 13. Taylor Fladgate and Fonseca Guimaraens do battle to determine the Ports that reign supreme.

Enjoy a Port cocktail to start, followed by four different styles of Port, paired with four courses by chef Paul Shufelt.

Tix: $95++/p, on Eventbrite or call Workshop.

All is Bright, the annual 124 Street Area light-up with music and general revelry, is on Saturday, November 10, from 4-8pm. Enjoy product demos and food and drink samples at Heart of the Home (12539 102 Street, 780-7054928) until 6pm.

Join Bill Medak of Color de Vino (9606 82 Avenue, 780-439-9069) on November 20, 7pm for a tasting of France’s most prestigious appellation and an introduction to the AMA Waterways Bordeaux River Cruise in May, to be hosted by Bill. Tix: $30/p call or email colordevino@gmail.com Love Australian and New Zealand wines? Taste with Elisabeth Muir of Negociants, at Everything Wine (25-100 Broadview Drive, Sherwood Park, 780-417-3356) Thursday, November 22. Tix, 25+/p, available at Everything Wine.

‘Tis the season of the wine shop Open House: Color de Vino’s (9606 82 Avenue, 780-439-9069) is on Saturday, December 1, from 2-5pm. Liquor Select’s (8924 149 Street, 780-4816868) is Wednesday, December 5, from 6:30-9:30pm. The Hicks Fine Wine (109-150 Bellerose Drive, 780-569-5000) Open House is on Thursday, December 6, from 5-8pm with donations accepted at the door for

the Sturgeon Community Hospital and Aligra Wine & Spirits (8882 170 Street #1423, 780-483-1083) has theirs on December 6, from 4:30-8:30pm. RSVP at aligrawineandspirits.com. Aligra will also have pop-up tastings throughout the month of November. Check their Facebook page for what’s up every week.

Bubbles Galore!! Festive Sparkling Wine tasting at Color de Vino (9606 82 Avenue, 780-439-9069) Wednesday, December 12, from 7-10pm, Tix: $25+/p or email colordevino@gmail.com.

780-757-2426 • cibobistro.com 11244 – 104 Avenue in Oliver Village

Chef Levi Biddlecombe

Find new favourites at Big Bottle Thursdays in December at Cibo Bistro (11244 104 Avenue, 780-757-2426).

Each week Cibo will feature a different big bottle, a Brunello Riserva, Barolo, or perhaps a juicy Amarone, available by the glass.

Red Door, Second Floor at the cooking schools The Christmas New Traditions cooking class at Kitchen by Brad (10130 105 Street, 780-757-7704) is about smaller families and getting out of the kitchen a bit earlier. Learn to make an amazing holiday meal, including nalysnyky, wild mushroom sauce, Port and Stilton soup, a roasted vegetable salad and warm gingerbread. Wednesdays November 7, 14 and December 5 and on Saturdays November 10, and December 8, 15.

They can also do private classes. Baba’s Cooking Classes return in January.

The Ruby Apron (780-906-0509, therubyapron.ca) classes with Kaelin Whittaker are an excellent gift (even for yourself ). Choose from Christmasthemed classes (bread, small bites, brunch or dinner) sourdough, or get a head start on booking 2019 classes (there is another Alberta Table Dinner coming up February 8). Discover the schedule and book online at therubyapron.ca.

Send new and/or interesting food and drink related news for Kitchen Sink to hello@thetomato.ca.

8534 109 street, 2nd floor (above the red pony) • 780-297-5757 • whynoteat.ca

Food Friends Fun 10350 – 124 Street | @YEGnoodles Take Out/UberEATS | 780-705-1777

Where all the best parties happen.

780.757.7704 kitchenbybrad.ca #101, 10130 - 105 Street

The Tomato | November December 2018 29

Nourishing Entertainment!

Tomato Crossword

Myles Mellor

Metro Cinema is a community-based non-profit society devoted to the exhibition and promotion of Canadian, international, and independent film and video.

Adult: $13, Student/Senior: $10 ($8 matinee), Child: $8

metrocinema.org

That Never Happened NOV 9 @ 9:30PM, NOV 11 @ 3PM, NOV 12 @ 7PM A documentary about Canada’s first national internment operations between 1914-1920, when over 88,000 Ukrainian-Canadians were forced to register and more than 8,500 were wrongfully imprisoned in camps across Canada. Filmmaker in attendance.

All-You-Cat-Eat-Cereal Cartoon Party!

DEC 8 @ 10AM The cartoon lineup is always a mystery, but you’ll see both Holiday faves and obscurities, all punctuated with vintage commercials and PSAs! Adult: $16, Student/Senior: $14, Children 12 & Under: $12. Admission includes cereal.

The Cakemaker DEC 20 @ 7PM Thomas, a young German baker, is having an affair with a married Israeli man who dies in a car crash.

Thomas travels to Jerusalem seeking answers, where he starts working for his lover’s widow, who owns a small café.

Metro Cinema at the Garneau 8712-109 Street | metrocinema.org

Across 1

IS ON THE AIR! A podcast about food and drink recorded in Edmonton and hosted by Mary and Amanda.

soundcloud.com 30 November December 2018 | The Tomato

Great Edmonton venue for High Tea, 3 words 6 Red wine, familiarly 8 Cake topper 9 “In the Kitchen” airer 10 Cook pot top 12 Enjoys a meal 13 ____ Limited Edition Tawny Port 16 Perignon's title 17 Some in French 19 Casual eatery 20 Pilsner ____, remarkable Czech beer 22 “To __ for!”

23 Tempranillo from ____ Bonhomme: El Grand Bonhomme 25 Confidentiality agreement, abbr.

27 A barman may check it 28 Whole wheat is more nutritive than this, 2 words 32 “___ we having fun yet?”

33 “Cheers” in a Greek restaurant 34 Root used in salads

Down 1 2

3 4 5

Cordial flavouring Mikael Falkman is the brand ambassador for this Champagne house Turkish fruit Rainbow shape Perform very well

6 You can enjoy premium sakes with appropriate snacks here, 3 words 7 Factor in a wine rating 11 Tech executive, abbr.

14 Not to be missed, 2 words 15 French seasoning 16 Puts too much dressing on a salad, perhaps 18 Pro’s camera, often 21 Drank 22 Aisle with milk and yoghurt 24 Dean’s e-mail address ender 26 Design in a latte might be called this 29 Road cover 30 Time to remember 31 Trademark symbol

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10820 Whyte Avenue • 587-521-2034 • @knifewearYEG • knifewear.com

What’s the best thing you ate last year?

It could be: • a restaurant dish • a farmers’ market specialty • a product from your favourite local farmer • a snack food • a condiment

Whatever makes your mouth hum!

Enter January 7 - February 15

Tell us about your favourite thing to eat or drink We’ll add it to our list of the 100 best things to eat in Edmonton

Enter January 7 – February 15. Here’s how: • Visit thetomato.ca and click on 100 best things to eat • Send us a message: facebook.com/thetomatofooddrink @tomatofooddrink #TomatoTop100 Tag your photo: #tomatofooddrink • Email us: hello@thetomato.ca • Mail us a letter: 9833 84 Avenue, Edmonton, T6E 2G1 The top 100 best things to eat and drink will be featured in the March April issue of The Tomato food & drink. *For the purposes of this competition, Edmonton includes Sherwood Park, St. Albert and surrounding communities — we’ll drive for food!

Tomato guy illustration created exclusively for The Tomato by Darcy Muenchrath, www.darcymuenchrath.com.