Issue 30, Winter 2024: Takashi Murakami + Cool new Tokyo by Time Out Tokyo

Flower Skull Bear

TIME OUT EXCLUSIVE

Inside

Superflat originator, prolific creator, art innovator

January – March 2024

‘Discovery is the most important component of any artistic experience’ Delve into the vibrant, artistic mind of Takashi Murakami on p6 â

Cool new Tokyo All the new and exciting things reshaping Tokyo right now

PAGE 14

Designer dips A new crop of traditional bathhouses reinvented for modern times

PAGE 28

The best transport deals and passes for short trips from Tokyo

PAGE 30

PAGE 42

Winter warming meals slow-cooked over charcoal fire MOTOKO/PIXTA

Ticket to ride

Smoke signals

BLANSCAPE/DREAMSTIME

KEISUKE TANIGAWA

â FEATURES AND REGULARS 04 Tokyo Update 06 Takashi Murakami interview 14 Tokyo: Refreshed 28 Designer sento 30 Eating & Drinking 32 Shopping & Style 34 Things to Do 38 Art & Culture 40 Music & Nightlife 42 Getting Around 44 Travel & Hotels 46 Save the Date Cover

Art direction: Steve Nakamura Cover art: Takashi Murakami, Summer Flower Field Under the Golden Sky (detail), 2023.Design data, 300×1000 cm. © 2023 Takashi Murakami/Kaikai Kiki Co., Ltd. All Rights Reserved.

Editor-in-Chief Lim Chee Wah Contributing Editor Marcus Webb Associate Editor Kaila Imada

Staff Writers Emma Steen Youka Nagase

Staff Photographers Keisuke Tanigawa Kisa Toyoshima

Contributor Darren Gore

Designer Ray Rahardja

Creative Solutions Ili Saarinen Hester Lin Wilken Ho Administration Momo Ando

Executive Vice President Akiko Toya President/Publisher Hiroyuki Fushitani

ORIGINAL Inc. 101, 5-9-9 Hiroo, Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0012 +81 (0)3 5792 5721 www.timeout.com/tokyo Advertising and general enquiries: info@timeout.jp Time Out Digital First Floor, 172 Drury Lane, London, WC2B 5QR. www.timeout.com 020 7813 3000

Time Out Group CEO Chris Ohlund Time Out founded 1968 by Tony Elliott

January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

GONBE/PIXTA

Tokyo Update 2

The joy of icicles

It very rarely snows in Tokyo, so if you’re looking for a winter wonderland, make your way to the annual Ashigakubo Icicles event in Chichibu, Saitama prefecture, just 90 minutes from central Tokyo. The event features breathtaking ice formations covering the entire landscape, turning the wooded area into a frosty forest. Plus there are colourful illuminations at nightfall that will take your breath away.

àReservations required for weekend & hols. tinyurl.com/TOTicicles

KUREMO/DREAMSTIME

RUNA AKAHOSHI

things Tokyoites are talking about

Ashigakubo Icicles is held from January 6 to February 25, and it’s open from Monday to Thursday, 9am to 4pm. Evening illuminations are held on Friday, Saturday, Sunday and holidays from 5pm to 8pm. Entry is ¥500 (¥300 for elementary school students; free for preschoolers).

Tokyo’s newest park

A new green oasis has emerged next to the Japan National Stadium (aka the Tokyo Olympic Stadium). The Toritsu Meiji Park, as it’s called, currently has four areas. The most impressive of these is the Forest of Pride, which has 508 deciduous and 214 evergreen trees planted across 7,500 square metres. Six more sections will be unveiled early this year. àtinyurl.com/TOTtmp

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2024

The restoration of an icon of Shibuya

The bustling walkway linking Shibuya Station to Shibuya Mark City boasts one of Tokyo’s most treasured contemporary art pieces: Taro Okamoto’s ‘Myth of Tomorrow’. This large-scale artwork chillingly portrays the detonation of an

atomic bomb, and it’s widely considered to be Okamoto’s masterpiece. Now, 15-plus years after its installation at the current location, the priceless mural is undergoing extensive restoration. The first phase started in October 2023, with years of work to follow. àtinyurl.com/TOTmot

Tokyo Update

TOKYO PLANNER

January 15-16

The annual Setagaya Boroichi is one of Tokyo’s most renowned flea markets, as it’s been going on for more than 400 years now. It’s only held twice a year (December 15-16 and January 15-16), and features hundreds of traditional stalls selling an overwhelming variety of antiques, vintage clothing, homeware, crafts and all sorts of bric-a-brac. There are also food outlets serving, among other things, daikan mochi rice cakes – essential fuel for your day of shopping.

February 3

Setsubun is a festival to mark the official beginning of spring according to the Japanese lunar calendar. A few rituals are observed to chase away evil spirits, and these include throwing beans at homes, temples or shrines, and eating a fat Eho-maki sushi roll while facing the year’s lucky direction, determined by the compass direction that corresponds with that year’s Zodiac sign. You can partake in the festivities at major temples in Tokyo, including Sensoji (pictured), Zojoji and Kanda Shrine.

SALEM/PIXTA

HIROTA/PIXTA

MADRABOTHAIR/DREAMSTIME

Dates and events to mark on your calendar this winter

MOST GOOGLED

àtinyurl.com/TOTsetsubunfest

àtinyurl.com/TOTsbm

Should I slurp my noodles loudly in Japan?

MASA/PIXTA

LET US SET THE RECORD STRAIGHT on a

Early February to mid-March

Cherry blossoms have long hogged the spotlight in Japan, but there’s another similar-looking flower that blooms a month or so before sakura. The mainly white and pink ume flowers are renowned for their pleasant fragrance, and they have

been held in high regard for over a millennium. Ume (or plum) trees can be found all over the city, but for the best blossoms, make a beeline for Yushima Tenjin Shrine or Hanegi Park. àtinyurl.com/TOTume

common misconception about Japanese ramen etiquette: slurping your noodles loudly is not a non-verbal way of signalling compliments to the chef. But how did this urban myth arise? Some noodle connoisseurs believe that slurping noodles, which isn’t considered bad table manners in Japan, enhances the flavours, much like a sommelier aerating a fine Cabernet Sauvignon. Other instances of rapid noodle slurping stem from time-starved office workers bolting their lunch before rushing to their next appointment. Given the quick turnover in noodle shops, the clamour of slurping noodles has become a familiar, albeit unappetising, soundtrack. Therefore, while slurping may be socially acceptable in a ramen joint, you’ll probably be side-eyed if you noisily wolf down your food in a grander restaurant setting. So in short, it’s okay to slurp in a casual eatery if you wish, but know that there’s no need to inhale your lunch loudly to impress the local noodle shop staff. A simple ‘gochisousamadeshita’ when you’re finished eating will be much more appreciated. n Emma Steen

January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

EXCLUSIVE

‘I realised the importance of creating art that people truly want’ Takashi Murakami on adapting his craft for an international audience and the future of art in the digital age of the Superflat. By Emma Steen, with translation by Ili Saarinen

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2024

January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

Takashi Murakami

SPORTING A SALT-AND-PEPPER BEARD , Japanese artist Takashi Murakami is candid about his age. The artist, who will be 62 years old by the time his solo exhibition opens in Kyoto this February, often references his numbered days and remarks that each exhibition could be his last. Despite this, he maintains a vibrant global presence, jet-setting to international festivals like Art Basel Hong Kong and sitting in front-row seats at Paris Fashion Week. Most of the time, Murakami embodies a unique duality: on one hand, he appears as a weary elder artist, sceptical about the world and its inhabitants, influenced by his extensive life experiences. On the other, he exudes a youthful exuberance, eager to explore new horizons and embrace technological novelties like Non-Fungible Tokens and AI chatbots. This dichotomy is reflected in his art and his founding of the Superflat movement in 2001, which merges modern manga and anime aesthetics with inspirations from Edo-period (1603-1868) art. This February, Murakami’s solo exhibition at the Kyoto City Kyocera Museum of Art showcases his fusion of ancient art with post-modern pop culture. In our interview, we delve into Murakami’s past and present and his perspectives on the evolving art world.

Your work receives an astounding amount of global recognition, shared by only a few of your Japanese contemporaries. What aspects of Japanese art do you think resonate most with global audiences? What are the next steps for more Japanese artists to be recognised abroad? I seem to have managed quite the right blend of cultures, taking on Japan’s post-World War II culture head on, moving back and forth between it and the classical Japanese pictorial form, and using Western-style grammar to express myself. The next steps for Japanese artists would be to learn English and not to be afraid of contracts. Don’t skimp on legal fees, you know?

You’ve shown your art at venues abroad such as in Paris and San Francisco. How is it different from exhibiting in Japan? When I exhibit abroad, the curators at each museum all have their own ways of going about things. They tend to want to highlight things like the impact of anime and manga on my work, or what I refer to as Superflat. For example, for the Asian Art Museum of San Francisco, their curator Laura Allen, who is an expert on Japanese art, asked me for a fusion of my latest ideas and Japanese classics. In Japan, rather than approaching me through the Superflat lens, curators tend to focus on things like my background in Nihonga painting or how I’m influenced by classical Japanese art. Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2024

You’ve often referred to some of your works, like ‘My Lonesome Cowboy’, as ‘stupid’ or ‘silly’. But that piece fetched $15.2 million in a 2008 auction. There seems to be a contrast between how you value your own work and how it’s valued by collectors. I was puzzled by that price at first, but then I spent a lot of time at galleries in New York, buying art to understand price ranges. I learned the reality of what goes into art prices. It sounds obvious, but the reason an artwork sells at a high price is that several people are willing to pay that much for it. In other words, I realised the importance of creating art that people truly want. I reinvented myself – really started spending the time and money I needed on research, brainstorming, experimentation and results – to be able to create works worthy of such prices.

What are your thoughts on the future of traditional art mediums?

Real appreciation of painting, which is a form of entertainment, will endure. Just the other day, I was at the Musée d’Orsay [in Paris] and was struck by the amount of detail in Monet’s paintings. That experience resembled the one I had marvelling over the extraordinary detail in a pencil drawing of the battleship Wunder, done for one of the ‘Rebuild of Evangelion’ films. Looking at it, I could almost hear the breath of the artist. I believe this kind of experience, of appreciating something handmade, won’t just go away.

Social media has made society itself superflat

Given the increasing digitisation of our world and the rising prominence of virtual and augmented realities, how do you envision the future of contemporary art?

Simply put, discovery is the most important component of any artistic experience. It’s like Archimedes’ Eureka moment – the ability of an artwork to turn your brain upside down and rewire your thinking when you see it or learn the artist’s concept for it. Art will remain relevant as long as it can produce that experience.

NFTs, which you’ve recently explored, have seen a significant decrease in their value. Do you think there’s still a place in the art market for NFTs?

Virtual reality will keep moving forward. People who aren’t interested in art and entered the NFT art market just to speculate have been selling off their collections, but those who understand the ideational value of NFT art have retained theirs – and many are buying more now that prices have gone down. I’m convinced that another NFT boom will come along in the next five years, and the people who threw away their collections will be kicking themselves.

Throughout your career, you’ve engaged in both merchandising projects and the creation of art. How do you navigate the balance between these two aspects of your career, ensuring that your artistic 9

vision and integrity are maintained even in commercial endeavours?

Let’s say you watch anime on TV, fall in love with that world and want to buy a toy related to that show, right? Back when I was a kid, people [making those toys] weren’t able to properly recreate anime worlds in real life due to stuff like technical or budget constraints. I remember being frustrated by the quality [of figurines and other toys]. [The reason I do merchandising] is that it can be a way to fulfil children’s dreams, since having creators be involved throughout the [merchandising] process can help break down barriers [that hold quality back].

January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

Takashi Murakami

The music industry is way ahead of art in this. Musicians were all over merchandising back when MTV was at its height. Musicians were making music and videos, touring and creating merchandise, and had such an influence on society. But one day, all of a sudden, that ended with programs like Napster, which erased the value of music [as a product]. This forced the music industry to restructure and pivot to a completely different model. We’re now seeing a different way of doing business, as many artists focus on live shows as their main source of revenue rather than relying on earnings from streaming. Simply put, merchandising in art is done because it sells. I think [merchandising] is booming because the public wants rich, comprehensive artistic experiences, but just like with music, one day people will tire of all that, and the art world will have to undergo the same kind of restructuring as we saw in the music industry.

You have previously said that Japanese people ‘hate’ your characters and artistic philosophy because you do a lot of lucrative projects. Do you still feel the same way?

For people under 25 these days, being an artist is something glamorous and I’m seen as this old ‘art guy’ who’s been around for ages. They treat me pretty neutrally, so no, I don’t feel hated in that sense. But the people who make society go round, people my age, still hate me – no change there. Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2024

Takashi Murakami at the press launch of his Kyoto exhibition

You’re about to hold a solo exhibition for the 90th anniversary of the Kyoto City Kyocera Museum of Art. Do you feel like you’re finally accepted and celebrated by the Japanese art community? I think the only public museums in Japan to have my work in their collections are the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art in Kanazawa and the National Museum of Art, Osaka. Compared to what I’ve been doing internationally, I guess I’d say [the Japanese art community] still gives me the cold shoulder.

This seems like a milestone exhibition. How did it come about?

Shinya Takahashi, a former executive at Mori Building, who after leaving that company returned to his native Kyoto and became the general manager of the Kyoto City Kyocera Museum of Art [formerly the Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art], invited me to participate in the exhibition held after that museum’s renovation [and rebranding in 2020]. Mr. Takahashi is someone I trust, so I accepted with the conviction that he’d be able to accommodate my requests.

SAKURA FUSIKI

A lot of artists these days, including yourself, are branching out into merchandising. Why is that?

Takashi Murakami

It’s been over 20 years since you conceived Superflat as an artistic movement. How do you think this movement has evolved in the years since your 2000 exhibition and how do you think it might expand in the future? I don’t think it’s outlived its purpose yet. That’s because social media has made society itself superflat. In the end, I think this is driving anger and egoism. Things are getting out of control, and we’re moving toward a pretty dark place. In that sense, we’re seeing the ‘dark side’ of superflat, the negative consequences of it. I think the superflatisation of society, driven by social media, will continue for another decade or two, so I think [Superflat] will remain an instructive term in the near future.

Mononoke Kyoto marks Takashi Murakami’s first Japanese solo exhibition outside of Tokyo and his first solo exhibition in Japan in eight years. Set against the backdrop of Kyoto, the exhibition pays homage to the Edo-period (1603-1868) painters who have been a source of inspiration for Murakami since his early career days. Kyoto, a city where traditional art forms like Nihon-buyo (traditional dance) continue to flourish, provides a fitting backdrop for the exhibition. Here, Murakami’s Superflat movement finds new expression, showcasing a blend of historical influences and modern artistic narratives.

I n your last interview with Time Out Tokyo in 2016, you mentioned that you collect your hair and fingernails in case there’s a use for them in a technologically advanced future. Do you still do this? How do you plan to use them?

àKyoto City Kyocera Museum of Art, Feb 3-Sep 1. 124 Okazaki Enshojicho, Sakyo, Kyoto (Higashiyama Station). 075 771 4334. takashimurakami-kyoto.exhibit. jp. 10am-6pm, closed Mon. Adults ¥2,200 (advance tickets ¥2,000), university students ¥1,500 (¥1,300), high school students ¥1,000 (¥800), free for junior high school students or younger.

I still do it, and have amassed a pretty big

Takashi Murakami: Mononoke Kyoto

My theme was to push the limits of my imagination and the capacity of my studio. And I’ve created 150 completely new paintings for it. Shinya Takahashi, general manager of the Kyoto City Kyocera Museum of Art and the de facto curator of the exhibition, asked me to delve into the history of Kyoto. His first request was for me to create a work themed on Iwasa Matabei’s [early 17th century] ‘Rakuchu rakugai-zu (Scenes in and Around the Capital)’. He beseeched me to express the wild contrast between the touristy Kyoto of today and the Kyoto of old, where people lived among terrifying monsters, and I was convinced. Iwasa Matabei’s painting features some 2,800 human characters, plus all sorts of animals, baskets, mats, trees and more – a total of more than 4,000 distinct items. Just

collection. I hope they can be displayed in a museum or somewhere after my death, so people can have fun looking at them and going, ‘Yuck!’

How did you approach creating this exhibition? And what do you want to achieve with this exhibition?

keeping up with all that was hard. In order to express the customs of old Kyoto, I enlisted the help of four assistants to a certain famous manga author. Luckily they had just finished a major series and had time to spare before the next one. They also helped me check the historical accuracy of the images. The theme of the exhibition is a mixture of Kyoto’s history and my own, blended in the mind of Shinya Takahashi.

January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

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Colour coded

LOCAL INSIGHT

Fashion stylist Toshihiko Hirano gives his thoughts on the G-Shock Full Metal collection

asio has revisited two iconic models, the GMW-B5000 and the GM-B2100, and reworked them into full metal timepieces featuring colourful gradations. With this surprising pop of colour, these timeless watches are able to offer a sense of versatility where wearers can express their unique sense of style and personality. To find out what makes a watch an essential item in anyone’s wardrobe, we caught up with freelance fashion stylist Toshihiko Hirano, who has worked as an assistant at notable publications including Monocle and Popeye magazine before branching out into freelance styling.

What do you think makes a watch a timeless fashion accessory?

Being a respected brand is important. In some instances, you might grow to love a brand after you’ve used it for a while or admired their timeless designs. I think those are some important factors for the brands, accessories and items you choose to wear. Design is important, of course, but a product that’s been loved by people for so many years makes it timeless.

What’s your impression of the Casio G-Shock Full Metal collection? It feels luxurious and hefty. The watches themselves are more casual, but have a touch of quality to them.

This Casio G-Shock Full Metal collection is based on two iconic models in full metal form, but given a colourful gradation. How can someone use these colours to bring out their style? I’d use this watch to make an outfit come to life, or use an outfit to make this watch come to life. If I wanted the watch to really stand out, I’d wear something black. I’ve been incorporating black into my own outfits these days, so I would coordinate and choose the rest of my outfit around that.

What do you think is the best way Any tips on how you would style for someone to incorporate metal or these watches for both men and metallic accessories into their style women? or wardrobe? I think these watches are best for daily use, I felt like these watches had a shiny impression, so I’d wear something glossy to match. Metals can have different textures like glossy or matte finishes, so I recommend playing around with these varying textures.

What’s your styling philosophy?

It can depend on the type of work, but having the right person is most important. I want to style a model by dressing them in clothes that suit them. Additionally, I’m not too complex when it comes to style. I want regular people to be able to replicate a similar outfit. I think there’s some pretty extreme fashion in Tokyo, but I want to keep outfits attainable for the average person.

and men can obviously wear them well with a suit. They might be a bit too heavy-looking for women to wear to work, but styling them with a more casual outfit to somewhere like a music festival or outdoor event would probably look best.

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GMW-B5000 digital models (L: GMW-B5000PC-1, R: GMW-B5000BPC-1)

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GM-B2100 analogue models (L: GM-B2100BPC-1A, R: GM-B2100PC-1A)

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à For more information on Casio’s latest timepieces and where to purchase yours, visit gshock.casio.com

TOKYO: REFRESHED

Cool New Tokyo

Twenty-five reasons why Tokyo is the most exciting city to be in right now. By the Time Out Tokyo team

TOKYO NEVER STAYS THE SAME . After all, this is a global city known for its dynamism, constantly changing and evolving. There’s always something happening in the Japanese capital, reshaping the city and the lives of its 37 million inhabitants, whether it’s a new attraction, a new trend, or a newly reinvigorated district. Here are some of the most exciting things currently redefining the Tokyo lifestyle – it’s time to embrace a cool new Tokyo.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2024

Cool new Tokyo

A new district has risen

KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Toranomon-Azabudai is one of the most ambitious urban redevelopment projects in Tokyo. This huge undertaking is transforming a central district through cutting-edge architecture and sustainable technology, in an effort to reimagine a more holistic urban lifestyle that balances work, leisure and recreation. Toranomon Hills Station Tower is the first property to open. It has an impressive food court (check out baked goods from Beaver Bread Brothers, pizza from Crazy Pizza Toranomon and cheap omakase sets at Tachiguchi Sushi Uogashi Yamaharu), an immersive performance space, a stunning rooftop pool, and plenty more besides. The nearby Azabudai Hills complex, however, is the jewel of the crown here, as it combines the works of some of the world’s greatest architects. The three skyscrapers are designed by Pelli Clarke & Partners while the nature-inspired landscaping in the public and lower-level spaces is the creation of the studio run by British designer Thomas Heatherwick, which is responsible for the Coal Drops Yard in London.

DAWN Avatar Robot Café

Tokyo robots are getting bigger and smarter

All the posts you see on social media claiming that Tokyo has been transported to the future? That’s true – at least in the field of robotics. At Nihonbashi’s DAWN Avatar Robot Café, the mechanical beings are not gimmicks. In fact, they are controlled remotely by people with disability or mobility constraints to serve and interact with customers. This ambitious creation is the work of visionary tech company Ory Lab, whose aim is to harness technology to create a more inclusive world, where even those isolated at home can contribute to society. Another robot worth checking out is the 18-metre-tall Moving Gundam in Yokohama. This colossal robot is the centrepiece of Gundam Factory Yokohama, and it’s an engineering marvel in that it has mobile limbs and can move. Hurry though, this impressive attraction is closing at the end of March. January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

Cool new Tokyo

The world’s largest Harry Potter attraction is here

Tokyo DisneySea is expanding

AYA MORIMOTO

Our beloved city now houses the magical Warner Bros. Studio Tour Tokyo – The Making of Harry Potter, unveiled in June last year on the historical grounds of Toshimaen amusement park in Nerima. Echoing the wonder of its London sibling, this attraction beckons Potterheads to delve into the cinematic brilliance behind the much-loved franchise.

Beginning in the awe-inspiring Great Hall, you are greeted with intricate costumes and props, each with its own fascinating story and made with immaculate craftsmanship. Then, stroll through the iconic Diagon Alley, marvel at the animated Grand Staircase, and immerse in the austere aura of the Ministry of Magic. There’s even a fascinating feature that puts you in a magical moving portrait as if you were a part of the Wizarding World.

Tokyo DisneySea is finally opening its highly anticipated expansion on June 6 2024. The theme park’s eighth port, Fantasy Springs, will feature three areas based on ‘Frozen’, ‘Tangled’ and ‘Peter Pan’. Rapunzel’s Forest will have a romantic boat ride recreating the iconic lantern festival

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2024

scene in ‘Tangled’. Frozen Kingdom, on the other hand, will be home to the beautiful kingdom of Arendelle. Lastly, Peter Pan’s Never Land is expected to have two new attractions, including a ride where you join Peter Pan and his friends in their encounter with Captain Hook. In the second ride, you can explore the changing seasons at Pixie Hollow as a fairy.

Tokyo nights never look more beautiful than in winter

KEISUKE TANIGAWA

In winter, the city steps up at night to compensate for the short days, covering parks, streets and public spaces with dazzling illuminations to keep the seasonal blues at bay. Near Tokyo Station, Marunouchi Illumination 2023 (ends February 18) sees 360 trees decked out in champagne gold lights along a 1.2km-stretch of shopping street from 4pm to 11pm. Elsewhere in the city centre, the Hibiya Magic Time Illumination (Tokyo Midtown Hibiya; ends February 14) and Shinjuku Minamillumi (Shinjuku Southern Terrace; ends February 14) are just as impressive, with countless sparkling LEDs and captivating light effects to brighten up the mood on cold nights. For over-the-top illuminations, it’s worth venturing outside the city centre to Yomiuri Land for its annual Jewellumination (ends April 7). The entire theme park is lit up with colourful lights, complete with an impressive fountain show with lasers and flames synchronised to music. The illumination at Sagamiko Resort Pleasure Forest (ends May 12) on the other hand, is themed after Doraemon this year. Hop on the park’s Rainbow Chairlift and sail over colourful light displays before arriving at the top, where you’ll be greeted by the blue cat-robot and his friends.

Marunouchi Illumination 2023

Shinjuku Minamillumi

January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

Tokyo Confidential

concept venue, it features a gin shop and tasting counter at the front, and a speakeasy-style bar at the back. Here, creativity shines with cocktails like Bear’s Honey, a blend of Bear’s Book gin, Chartreuse Jaune and green tea, or the Sea of Harris, a concoction featuring Isle of Harris gin, St-Germain elderflower liqueur, grapefruit juice and kelp. Adding to Tokyo’s vibrant cocktail landscape is the no-reservation, walkin-only Tokyo Confidential, founded by prolific drinks writer and mixologist Holly Graham. What stands out from the well-curated drink menu is the inclusion of low- and no-ABV options, a concept that was almost unheard of a few years ago. And oh, the outdoor terrace has a good view of Tokyo Tower.

Shopping in Tokyo is unparalleled, in part due to the many one-of-a-kind flagship stores set up by some of Japan’s and the world’s biggest brands. Nike opened its second Jordan World of Flight store in the world in Shibuya, where fans can shop for activewear, basketball culture-inspired merchandise and of course, the brand’s beloved Jordan sneakers. In Harajuku, you’ll find guitar icon Fender’s first flagship store in the world, carrying new signature guitars as well as rare instruments across four floors. Nearby on Takeshita street is Universal Music Store, the music label’s first concept store in the world. This unique venue is all about music culture and experiences, with a regularly changing roster of featured artists, which informs the exclusive merchandise and activities in-store. Also worth mentioning is the renovated 12-storey Uniqlo Ginza flagship store, where Uniqlo Coffee made its debut appearance, as well as the renewed Ginza Loft flagship store that features five floors of unique and gorgeous Japanese household and kitchen goods, stationery, cosmetics, food and souvenirs.

NIKE JAPAN

Jordan World of Flight; Ginza Loft (right) Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2024

More exciting flagship stores have popped up in Tokyo

LOFT

KISA TOYOSHIMA

For a long time, Tokyo’s cocktail bars have largely been of the genteel variety, with a quiet, formal air about them. These drinking dens often eskew trends and modern palates and instead are all about sticking to the retro classics, whether it’s a gimlet or a sidecar. The cocktail bars of today, however, have shaken off those traditional shackles and know how to have fun, whether it’s experimenting with ingredients and new concoctions or creating vibrant and design-driven social spaces. Take Bar Benfiddich in Shinjuku, a place where tradition meets imagination. Here, Hiroyasu Kayama concocts whimsical, off-menu cocktails in a setting reminiscent of an old-world apothecary. And Swrl in Shibuya, which mixes wine cocktails using an interesting technique – gentle swirling instead of shaken over ice – to preserve the delicate nose and taste of vino. Then there’s the reinvented Bar Hisaka in Takadanobaba, an oldschool bar that has given itself a modern twist. Operating as a dual-

TEAMLAB, BUBBLE UNIVERSE: PHYSICAL LIGHT, BUBBLES OF LIGHT, WOBBLING LIGHT, AND ENVIRONMENTAL LIGHT © TEAMLAB

MILLIE TANG

Tokyo is in its golden age of cocktails

Cool New Tokyo

Cool new Tokyo

The sensational teamLab Borderless is reopening

This is the moment we’ve all been waiting for – the February reopening of teamLab Borderless, which broke the Guinness world record in 2019 for being the world’s most visited museum dedicated to a single artist/art group. Previously based in Odaiba before closing in August 2022, the museum now finds a home in the newly opened Azabudai Hills complex. This one-of-a-kind, boundary-pushing digital art haven is renowned for blurring the lines between art and spectator through immersive installations that span the entirety of the facility from floor to ceiling. This unique feature allows you to be fully absorbed into a kaleidoscope of digital graphics, wander through luminescent crystal worlds, and interact with art that responds dynamically to movements. Some of teamLab’s most beloved installations will make a comeback in updated forms alongside the debut of never-before-seen works.

Stage at Tokyo Riverside Distillery

THE ETHICAL SPIRITS & CO; TORANOMON DISTILLERY

Tokyo has not one but three gin distilleries

Toranomon Distillery is the first inner city gin distillery in Tokyo, with an eye-catching copper still set within the Toranomon Yokocho food hall in Toranomon Hills Business Tower. Its Common craft gin is produced with Tokyo-sourced ingredients, primarily spring water from Ome and locally produced shochu. The distillery also operates the adjacent izakaya, where you can enjoy classic Japanese pub grub and the gin, of course. On the other side of Tokyo near Asakusa is Tokyo Riverside Distillery. This innovative

Toranomon Distillery

distillery by the Ethical Spirits & Co has a noble concept of turning food waste such as surplus sake and cacao husks, which would otherwise have gone to waste, into amazingly smooth and fragrant craft gin. And yes, the distillery has an on-site restaurant and bar called Stage, but it’s only open from Thursday to Saturday. Further afield is the relatively newer Tokyo Hachioji Distillery, which produces beautifully fragrant London-style dry gin with heaps of botanicals, herbs and spices. The distillery, about 90 minutes from Shinjuku by train, opens irregularly for tours and visits.

Craft gin from Tokyo Riverside Distillery January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

Mikan Shimokita

TOKYU LAND CORPORATION

Shimokitazawa – or Shimokita, as the locals call it – is synonymous with vintage shopping. However, this youthful neighbourhood has become more well-rounded thanks to a host of new shopping and dining complexes that have popped up over the last few years. Right outside the central exit of Shimokitazawa Station is Mikan Shimokita. Here you’ll find a variety of casual and affordable restaurants serving cuisines from Thai and Taiwanese to Vietnamese and Italian. A disused section of railway tracks nearby is now Reload Shimokitazawa,

a sleek double-storey mall housing some of the hippest Japanese brands including Masunaga eyewear and AFPR fragrances, as well as cool businesses such as Takeshi’s Barber and sushi and wine-pairing restaurant Hashiri Shimokitazawa. Away from the bustling centre of Shimokitazawa is the relaxed Bonus Track. Here you’ll find a dozen or so shops and restaurants clustered around an alfresco courtyard scattered with tables and chairs. Close by is another spacious facility called Nansei Plus, home to an indie cinema and an organic supermarket plus a handful of cafés, restaurants and bars.

KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Shimokitazawa has received a major glow-up

KISA TOYOSHIMA

Reload Shimokitazawa

3RD PLANET

Tokyo’s arcades are getting bigger and better

3rd Planet Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2024

The urban transformation in Shibuya shows no signs of slowing down – and it’s not all just about shopping. Miyashita Park with its rooftop terrace and urban sports facilities as well as Shibuya Scramble Square with its vertiginous rooftop observation deck Shibuya Sky were just a teaser of a newer Shibuya to come. The recently opened Dogenzaka Dori complex is where you’ll find a Sarutahiko Coffee café with tatami floor seating, along with the debut of a new offshoot by mega discount store Don Quijote called Domise. Closer to Shibuya Station, Shibuya Sakura Stage is the new landmark of Sakuragaoka neighbourhood, sitting along a picturesque road flanked by cherry blossom trees. This massive mixed-use facility features offices, residences, shops, cultural spaces and dining options, along with a lush green public plaza. Over at the Harajuku side, Tokyu Plaza Harajuku Harakado (pictured above) is set to open in spring. This edgy building designed by Nikken Sekkei and Akihisa Hirata promises a stunning vertical outdoor garden spread out across its upper floors as well as a modern bathhouse and a massive food court.

Many of our favourite arcades closed down during the pandemic, but don’t worry – a host of new and better ones have popped up since. Ikebukuro’s iconic Sega arcade, which closed in 2021, has been reincarnated as Gigo Ikebukuro. It has four floors dedicated to crane machines, photo booths and video games. If you just want crane games, head over

Shibuya continues to reinvent itself

to 3rd Planet arcade at Asobi Town in Yokohama. It currently holds the Guinness World Record for having the most crane games in the world, and you can win snacks, plushies, figurines and more. For capsule toys, Gashapon Department Store in Ikebukuro’s Sunshine City shopping centre is home to the largest number of gashapon machines in the world. There’s over a whopping 3,100 capsule toy machines – many of them only cost around ¥200-¥300 per capsule.

Tokyo’s public toilets have become an attraction in their own right

KENTA HASEGAWA

Toilets in Japan are the stuff of dreams: pristine, super clean and technologically advanced. Tokyo, however, is now taking that well-earned reputation to the next level by getting top Japanese architects and creatives to design its public toilets. Run by the Nippon Foundation under the Tokyo Toilet project, these urban conveniences can be found in parks and near major train stations across Shibuya. Each of them is unique, and they are architectural marvels. Japanese starchitect Kengo Kuma’s

signature woodwork is evident at Nabeshima Shoto Park, with five separate ‘huts’ clad in 240 Yoshino cedar planks. Chief creative officer Kazoo Sato of advertising agency TBWA/Hakuhodo, on the other hand, designed an all-white dome at Nanago Dori Park. This space-age toilet is so cutting-edge that it’s contactless and can run on voice commands. Even more surprising are the transparent cubicles at Haru-noOgawa Community Park and Yoyogi Fukamachi Mini Park designed by renowned Japanese architect Shigeru Ban. But don’t worry: the see-through walls turn opaque when the door is locked.

All Day Place Shibuya

Tokyo has a host of new hip hotels

Tokyo hotels have become more affordable, and not just because of the weak yen. New hotels are opening in the city on a regular basis, covering a wide price range. For a central stay, Hotel Indigo Shibuya, which occupies the top floors of the new Dogenzaka Dori complex, offers panoramic views of the city along with a gorgeous outdoor terrace and sleek cocktail bar. More budget-friendly is the All Day Place Shibuya, where the rooms are simple but stylish and the vibe is young and lively, thanks to the relaxed in-house coffee shop and craft beer bar

on the ground floor. Looking to splurge? Hotel Toranomon Hills is the city’s first boutique hotel under the Unbound Collection by Hyatt. The luxury property offers unobstructed views of Tokyo Tower while its food and drink offerings are under the direction of Sergio Herman, chef-owner of Michelin-starred restaurant Le Pristine in Antwerp, Belgium. Alternatively, Yuen Bettei Daita has all the mod-cons for a relaxing stay. The sumptuous Japanese ryokan has a gorgeous onsen and cosy tea bar. Plus, it’s within walking distance from all the good food and shops at Shimokitazawa.

Nabeshima Shoto Park

ZOUK TOKYO

Nanago Dori Park

Zouk Tokyo

More and more establishments are now open all night

In the past two years, Tokyo has witnessed a remarkable surge in new businesses catering to the late-night crowd. This has helped the city reclaim its title as a top nightlife destination, with nightclubs such as Baia and Zouk joining the roster of places to go after dark. But it’s not just about partying – places you wouldn’t normally associate with nightlife are staying open late, too. Take for example the cool new wellness hangout Shibuya Saunas that’s open till midnight, or the revamped super bathhouse Spa Laqua in Korakuen, welcoming guests from 11am all the way to 9am the following morning. All this is possible simply because Tokyo is super safe. This makes cruising around in the late hours a breeze, without stressing about walking alone or ending up in the wrong part of town. In fact, back in 2021 (the most recent survey at the time of print), Tokyo was ranked the fifth safest city in the world by the Economist Intelligence Unit’s Safest Cities Index. Tokyo’s nightlife scene is buzzing and it’s pretty great knowing you can enjoy it without worrying about getting home safely.

KEISUKE TANIGAWA

SATOSHI NAGARE, PROVIDED BY THE NIPPON FOUNDATION

Cool new Tokyo

Spa Laqua January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

Cool new Tokyo

Coffee culture in Tokyo is evolving

Third-wave coffee is so yesterday – at least in Tokyo, anyway. Recently, the city has taken coffee appreciation to the next level by turning it into a tasting experience. At the forefront of this movement is Koffee Mameya Kakeru in Kiyosumi-Shirakawa. This gorgeous space, with baristas dressed up like lab technicians, lets you explore not just different beans and roasts, but also the nuanced changes in taste with different brewing methods. Ogawa Coffee Laboratory Shimokitazawa, on the other hand, has a ‘bean salon’ offering masterclasses where you’ll learn the best brewing methods from a selection of 40 different coffee-making tools. For purists favouring single origin roasts, Glitch Coffee Ginza carries around 15 beans, which you can sample via a coffee flight.

Clockwise from left: Ogawa Coffee Laboratory Shimokitazawa, Koffee Mameya Kakeru, Glitch Coffee Ginza

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2024

There’s always something new popping up across the city. One of the most high-profile openings recently is the Tokyu Kabukicho Tower in Shinjuku’s world-famous nightlife district. This skyscraper is Japan’s largest entertainment complex, featuring the neonlit Kabuki-Yokocho food hall, two luxury hotels, a Namco arcade that opens till late, thumping nightclub ZeroTokyo, and much more. Tokyo Midtown Yaesu opposite Tokyo Station brings more standout restaurants and shops to the transport hub. Go for the charcoal-grilled unagi (freshwater eel) at Sumiyaki Unafuji (its original store in Nagoya has a Bib Gourmand rating), well-designed stationery at Stálogy, and artisanal glass jewellery and exquisite coffee equipment at Hario Lampwork Factory. In February 2024, Toyosu will welcome a new onsen spa complex called Toyosu Senkyaku Banrai, which seeks to recreate the nostalgic streetscape of Tokyo back in the Edo days (1603-1868). The rejuvenating hot springs and saunas at this wellness facility will be complemented by shops and restaurants for a holistic experience.

CAFÉS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): KISA TOYOSHIMA; KOFFEE MAMEYA KAKERU; KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Tokyu Kabukicho Tower

KISA TOYOSHIMA

There’s a continuous flurry of exciting new openings

Tokyo pizzas are now recognised as some of the best in the world

You don’t have to travel all the way to Italy to get a taste of some of the world’s best Neapolitan-style pizzas. Many pizzerias in Tokyo have mastered this Italian staple and are now spinning out pies that are just as good as those the Italians make – a fact now acknowledged by the 50 Top Pizza World list. The Pizza Bar on 38th (pictured right) at the Mandarin Oriental Tokyo is ranked No. 4 on the prestigious worldwide list. Here, the surprisingly light dough is made with organic Italian flour and just one gram of yeast, which is then fermented for 48 hours before being rolled out for a one-of-a-kind pizza omakase course.

Coming in at No. 23 is Pizzeria Peppe – Napoli Sta’ Ca” near Kamiyacho Station. This pizzeria’s crowd-pleasing Pizza Don Salvo features a crust stuffed with ricotta and spicy salami, then folded into an eight-point star and topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella, fresh tomatoes, basil and parmesan.

Chef Sergio Herman of Le Pristine Tokyo

FROM TOP: MANDARIN ORIENTAL TOKYO; LE PRISTINE TOKYO; MAZ

Some of the world’s most renowned restaurants are now here

Tokyo is the greatest food destination in the world, and not just because it has more Michelin stars than any other city. In recent years, many of the world’s top restaurants have opened up an offshoot in the Japanese capital. Central in Peru, No. 1 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list for 2023, has a sister restaurant in Tokyo called Maz, which was recently awarded two stars in the 2024 Michelin Guide. Here you can expect the same innovative cuisine that’s informed by the Peruvian ecosystem but expressed through the addition of Japanese seasonal ingredients. Antwerp’s Michelin-starred restaurant Le Pristine Tokyo now has an outpost in the new Hotel Toranomon Hills, serving contemporary European cuisine celebrating produce from the Dutch coastal province of Zeeland, where its world-renowned chef Sergio Herman is from. Of course, there’s the illustrious Gucci Osteria, the Michelin-starred Italian restaurant by visionary chef Massimo Bottura, which has presence in Florence, Beverly Hills and now, Ginza in Tokyo. The tasting menus here are grounded in Italian cuisine but accented beautifully with Japanese flavours and ingredients.

Maz

January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

Advertisement feature

The ultimate delicacy Indulge in the luxurious Hadate uni sea urchin packaged in a gorgeous Japanese lacquerware box WHEN IT COMES TO Japanese seafood, one of the most coveted indulgences has got to be uni, or sea urchin, roe. These prized nuggets of golden goodness are best enjoyed fresh, and you can’t go wrong with Hadate sea urchin brought in straight from Hokkaido. Hadate Suisan offers Kita Murasaki uni, which is some of the best around and it’s sold at a premium price at Tokyo’s Toyosu Fish Market. The luxurious uni is served at many Michelin-starred eateries including long-established sushi restaurants. Of all the uni, Akatsuki is the highest grade of Kita Murasaki raw sea urchin – it makes up just about one percent of Hadate Suisan’s

yearly catch. To celebrate the New Year, Hadate Suisan has repackaged their prized Akatsuki uni by hand, offering it in gorgeous tamatebako lacquerware boxes. These beautifully decorated boxes have been traditionally used to store valuable jewellery, cosmetics or to be given as gifts. For Hadate Suisan’s uni, these special boxes are designed by Tokyo-based artist collective In-Yo (in-yo.jp) and finished by revered lacquer craftsmen Shitsurindo, who is honoured by Japan’s Daihonzan Eiheiji Temple. These boxes feature an image of 2024’s zodiac sign – a majestic dragon. Whether you live in Japan or overseas, you can now order one of these luxurious uni boxes and have it delivered right to your door. Enjoy it with rice, or simply eatit as-is, to appreciate the sea urchin’s rich and briny flavour.

To order a box of Hadate Suisan uni, contact the following wholesalers: à kaihoutoyosu.com à us.sakasyu.com *The photo is for illustration purposes only. Actual design may differ as the boxes are handmade.

Cool New Tokyo

Going to the konbini is a lot more fun

Clockwise: Tacos Bar, The Bellwood, Ukiyo

THE BELLWOOD; KEISUKE TANIGAWA

There’s a new wave of boundary-pushing restaurants

Tokyo chefs traditionally revere their craft with an almost sacred adherence to methods and authenticity, but lately, a new culinary wave is taking hold. While this dedication to the fundamentals has ensured a consistently high quality across Tokyo’s food scene, it has also, at times, led to a lack of innovation and diversity. However, a new generation of chefs is breaking the mould by infusing Tokyo’s food landscape with vibrant flavours and innovative techniques. The Bellwood is one of the city’s leading cocktail bars, but surprisingly it’s also established a reputation for serving some of the best sushi. This is thanks to 27-yearold executive chef Ayaka Terai, who serves a modern omakase course paired with cocktails in the Bellwood’s back room. Challenging the orthodoxies of a maledominated sushi world, Terai presents Bellsushi, a startling blend of Japanese and global palates, doing what no orthodox sushi chefs have dared to do by combining maguro (tuna) nigiri with banh mi toppings, or putting a Mexican spin on sushi with tortilla chips and jalapeños.

Another young talent challenging local fine dining norms is Toshi Akama of Ukiyo. The restaurant centres on multi-course menus using ingredients that are slow-cooked over charcoal, but Akama takes things one step further by incorporating exotic spices into his dishes. There was once a notion among Japanese chefs and diners that adding exotic spices to multi-course fine-dining menus would be too overwhelming for the palate, but using knowledge that he acquired from working at London’s spice-based restaurant Ikoyi, Akama demonstrates how spices can be used to highlight certain ingredients rather than compete with them. Meanwhile in Ebisu, Marco Garcia is taking his native Mexican cuisine and putting it through a Japanese lens. At his openkitchen restaurant Tacos Bar, Garcia puts an omakase spin on tacos, with handmade tortillas serving as the base for championing Japanese produce like Ise-ebi (spiny Ise lobster) and maitake mushrooms.

Convenience stores or konbini are a godsend. Besides being a trusty go-to for that late-night snack and emergency supplies, some konbini have upgraded their shops with the addition of an in-house bar – specifically the FamilyMarts on Shibuya’s Meiji-Dori and in Itabashi, and the Lawson at Shinjuku’s Washington Hotel Building. These convenience stores are home to a Liquor Museum bar, which serves proper cocktails and spirits. And the best part is that you can enjoy food from the convenience store right there at the bar along with your drinks.

January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

KISA TOYOSHIMA

Cool New Tokyo

Anime Tokyo Station

A new anime and manga hub has emerged

Watch out, Nakano and Akihabara: Ikebukuro is shaping up to be the new hub for anime and manga culture in Tokyo. The world’s largest Animate flagship store opened in Ikebukuro, where you can shop for manga, video games and character merchandise, attend fan events and performances, and relax at a café serving food and drinks inspired by some of the manga and anime world’s hottest titles. Nearby is the newly opened Anime Tokyo

Was it a certain ‘Fast and Furious’ movie that ignited your intrigue with Tokyo? If that’s the case, you’ll be thrilled to know that 2024 is set to be a landmark year for motorheads. For the first time, Japan will host the ABB FIA Formula E World Championships, with the spotlight on none other than our vibrant capital city. This milestone event marks the tenth season of Formula E, which features

single-seater cars that run on batteries and electric motors. The 2024 championship season will kick off in Mexico City on January 13 and end in London on July 21. Tokyo’s street race will be on March 30 and unfold along a 2.58km track that wraps around Tokyo Big Sight in Koto. These cars are known for reaching blistering speeds of up to 320km/h, so you’ll have to keep your eyes wide open if you want to keep track of the drivers. Blink and you’ll miss all the action!

Cherry blossoms have started blooming

In Tokyo, there’s no need to wait till spring for cherry blossoms, as some species of the flower bloom in winter. The vivid pink kanhizakura as well as the pastel pink kawazu-zakura trees usually flower between January and March. Living up to its name, the Sakura Jingu Shrine in Shinmachi boasts two cherry trees in front of its main prayer hall. For a scenic stroll in the city, visit the Kyunaka River, which features 26 kawazu-zakura trees that usually start blooming towards the end of January. Those who want to picnic can visit Rinshi-no-mori Park in Meguro, where there’s an area of winter cherry blossoms blooming in February.

KEISUKE TANIGAWA; SUMITOMO REALTY & DEVELOPMENT

NISSAN MOTOR CO., LTD.

Tokyo is hosting Formula E for the first time

Station, which has a collection of around 50,000 anime-related materials taken from the Tokyo Metropolitan Government’s archives. This multi-level complex seeks to become a promotion and discovery centre for Japanese animation, with pop-up shops, events, workshops and exhibitions. If you’re in Tokyo on the weekend of March 23-24, get your tickets for Anime Japan, a two-day anime extravaganza with over 100 exhibitors plus plentiful entertainment ranging from live music and talk shows to even a cosplay parade.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2024

The rooftop onsen at Haneda Airport Garden

Tokyo airports are making air travel more enjoyable

More often than not, airports are a means to an end: tolerated but not exactly fun. Tokyo’s two airports – Haneda and Narita – however, beg to differ. The new Haneda Airport Garden lifestyle complex that’s connected to Terminal 3 has shops selling local crafts and souvenirs as well as two hotels, a 24-hour spa (with a rooftop onsen, no less), and about 80 restaurants serving Japanese dishes including yakiniku and ramen. There’s so much to do here you need to keep an eye on the clock and not miss your flight. Further afield, Narita Airport recently opened Japan Food Hall in Terminal 2, in an aim to send off travellers with one last proper Japanese meal. There’s sushi, wagyu beef cutlets, charcoal-grilled unagi, okonomiyaki and more – all served by offshoots of established restaurants. How’s that for Japanese hospitality?

January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

Designer sento

Heaven sento

A FEW DECADES AGO, Japan’s public bathhouses, known as sento, were as integral to a city’s infrastructure as shops or restaurants. Now that the vast majority of homes are fitted with baths and showers, the humble sento has seen its popularity wane. In Tokyo, however, while many bathhouses have closed due to diminishing demands, a few establishments decided to reinvent themselves to adapt to the changing times. Drawing on the city’s rich cultural heritage, these designer sento have collaborated with leading artists and architects to breathe new life into the traditional communal bathing experience. These reinventions are not only visually stunning but also serve as poignant reminders of the deep-seated cultural significance of the sento. Dip into this list to explore five of Tokyo’s most artful and architecturally innovative bathhouses that are leading the resurgence of this timeless Japanese tradition.

Koganeyu

Formerly a run-down yet cheerful neighbourhood bathhouse, Koganeyu underwent a big change in 2020 that transformed the facility into a cross between a modern sento and a craft beer taproom. This metamorphosis was steered by artist Hiroko Takahashi and Schemata Architects, who added contemporary design intricacies while retaining the bathhouse’s intrinsic charm. You’ll be greeted by a craft beer bar at the entrance, where you can rent towels and later enjoy a drink. The bar also takes on the role of a DJ booth, adding to the relaxing atmosphere. The bathing zones for men and women, Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2024

despite being separated by a 2.25m half-wall, are united by a shared mural of Mt Fuji by Yoriko Hoshi, intended to create a sense of community. The changing rooms feature a noren curtain by Iichiro Tanaka, reading ‘oi’ – a jovial greeting. Beyond that, you can choose from baths with varied temperatures and a cold plunge pool after a sauna session. à 4-14-6 Taihei, Sumida (Kinshicho Station). 03 3622 5009. koganeyu.com. Mon-Fri, Sun & hols 6am-9am, 11am-12.30am, Sat 6am-9pm, 3pm-12.30am; Closed every second and fourth Mon of the month. ¥520, middle school students ¥420, primary school students ¥200, younger children ¥100. Sauna users should reserve online to avoid long wait times.

JU YEON LEE, COURTESY OF JO NAGASAKA/SCHEMATA ARCHITECTS

YURIKA KONO, COURTESY OF JO NAGASAKA/SCHEMATA ARCHITECTS

Tokyo bathhouses are undergoing a renaissance, merging traditional elements with contemporary art and design. By Emma Steen

MIKOKU-YU

Designer sento

AKANE SUZUKI

Mikoku-yu

crafted from hinoki cypress, releases a soothing hojicha (roasted green tea) aroma, and for those craving privacy, five secluded booths await (only with reservations). The crowning touch is found upstairs: a dynamic digital mural celebrating the animated artistry of a local creator. It’s worth noting that Paradise caters only to men, except for three days a month (on the 10th, 20th and 30th, 10am-12midnight) when it is ladies day.

à 3-30-10 Ishiwara, Sumida (Honjo-Azumabashi Station). 03 3623 1695. mikokuyu.com. 3.30pm-2am, closed Mon. ¥1,500 per 90-minute session.

à 5-23-16 Shiba, Minato (Tamachi Station). 03 6453 8720. paradise-mita.com. 6am-3am daily. Weekdays ¥1,000 for 30 minutes, weekends ¥1,100 for 30 minutes, ¥250 for every 10 minutes thereafter.

Komaeyu

Another sento to be rejuvenated by Schemata Architects is Komaeyu. Founded in 1955, this sento remained a constant over the years while Tokyo became increasingly urbanised, and today it’s the oldest bathhouse in the Komae city vicinity. Now enhanced by offerings of beer on tap, light bites and coin-operated laundry facilities, Komaeyu has become an ideal haunt for backpackers who want to do their washing while getting in some R&R. The bathwater here is set at a piping 42 degree Celsius, so it’s pretty hot for unseasoned sento-goers, but once you get used to the temperature, you’ll feel like you’ve reached nirvana. à 1-12-6 Higashiizumi, Komae (Komae Station). 03 3489 3881. komaeyu.com. 1pm-11pm, closed Tue. Adults ¥500, primary school students ¥200, younger children ¥100.

HISAMATSUYU

Paradise

In 2022, the creative urban redevelopment specialists at Ozeki Lab rejuvenated a 90-year-old sento in Mita, merging contemporary naturalistic design with classic elegance. As you step in, you’re embraced by the rich scent of Japanese cedar from the lockers and serenaded by the gentle strains of folk tunes. The primary bathing space is an oasis of calm, with intricate wooden carvings and lush greenery. Here you can luxuriate in the original bathtubs, now graced with soft blue tiles, or opt for a refreshing dip in one of the two chilled baths set at 16 and nine degrees Celsius. An expansive sauna,

Established in 1947, the multi-storey Mikoku-yu underwent a transformation in 2015. The soft smell of timber welcomes you as you pass the entrance to put your shoes in the wooden cubbies. Unlike traditional sento, Mikoku-yu features a number of different baths, with each set at different temperatures ranging from 25 to 46 degrees Celsius. There are medicinal baths that change on a daily basis, with some days featuring fresh herbs and others featuring rice bran and milk. Go to the fifth floor and you’ll find a semi-open air bath where you can get a glimpse of Tokyo Skytree.

Hisamatsuyu

Hisamatsuyu stands out from the crowd with its unique bathrooms, which feature projection mapping displays you can enjoy while having a soak. The audiovisual element was conceived by the art collective Atelier Omoya. Founded in 2003, the group has a talent for transforming everyday materials into art, and their projects can be found at locations from Yokohama to the Charles de Gaulle International Airport in Paris. But Hisamatsuyu offers more than just visual delights. On select days of every month, the baths feature aromatic infusions such as loquat leaves, peppermint or lavender, further enhancing the bathing experience. à 4-32-15 Sakuradai, Nerima (Sakuradai Station). 03 3991 5092. hisamatsuyu.jp. 11am-11pm, closed Tue. Visitors age 12 and above ¥520.

January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

Eating & Drinking

AS WINTER WRAPS TOKYO in its chilly embrace, the city’s heartbeat finds solace in the warm glow of izakaya, where food and camaraderie intertwine. To help you embrace this season, we’re focusing on five restaurants where sumibiyaki – the art of charcoal grilling – takes centre stage. Sumibiyaki encompasses a variety of dishes from the skewered delights of yakitori (grilled skewered chicken) to the savoury slices of yakiniku (grilled beef). Here, however, we’re focusing on restaurants that embrace a slower approach to charcoal cooking, crafting an atmosphere ripe for savouring both food and conversation over hot sake. Whether the heating device is a built-in irori hearth or a smaller, portable hibachi grill, the essence of each dish is enhanced by the unmistakable smoky undertones that only charcoal can impart – a flavour that finds its full expression in the cold of winter. There’s no need to venture beyond the city for this rustic charm. These Tokyo restaurants deliver the quintessential experience of huddling around a fireplace, a haven for those seeking to thaw their winter blues.

From the outside, Sowado presents an inscrutable facade: a featureless concrete wall with a plain, slate-black metal sliding door, giving no hints of the culinary theatre that lies within. This enigmatic entrance is a portal to one of Tokyo’s most sought-after dining experiences, but entry is exclusive to those with reservations. This discreet establishment is headed by Fukuoka-born chef Hideaki Sakai, who puts a contemporary spin on traditional Kyushu delicacies. The menu here is extensive and the dishes are small, so that you can easily savour the diverse array of seasonal produce alongside an eclectic selection of sake and wine. Among the highlights is the tsukune – individual skewers of chicken meatballs that are glazed with a sweet-savoury glaze before being dipped in creamy, golden egg yolk. The sashimi assortment is also a must, with each slice of fresh fish thoughtfully paired with its ideal complement, be it a smidgen of sudachi citrus or a touch of pickled plum sauce. Specialising in genshiyakistyle seasonal fish, Sowado also boasts an impressive array

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2024

All fired up Some of the best meals in Tokyo are slow-cooked over charcoal fire, as Emma Steen discovers at a series of restaurants specialising in sumibiyaki

of charcoal-grilled options, including succulent beef, duck, and pork dishes that vary daily. For those daunted by the breadth of choices, ask the staff to put together a course of recommended dishes, which will likely include housemade tofu, sashimi, a soupbased dish, the signature thick-cut ham cutlet and the charcoalgrilled dish of the day. Whatever you do, leave some room for the buta kakuni claypot rice at the end of the meal, where the fatty richness of melt-inyour-mouth braised pork belly is brilliantly balanced with the refreshing zing of myoga ginger. For those wishing to extend their evening, a quieter bar area offers a tranquil space for post-prandial drinks, including shochu, sake, natural wine, and more. à1-12-15 Hiroo, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 050 1807 6893. sakai-shokai.jp. 5pm-11pm, closed Sun.

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY THE RESPECTIVE RESTAURANTS

Sowado

Eating & Drinking

Kanagari

This unpretentious izakaya in Nishi-Shinjuku is a paradise for sake lovers, with a selection of over 50 varieties from all over Japan. It has a casual and old-school atmosphere that immediately puts you at ease as you kick off your shoes and relax on tatami mats. Chef Yoshimitsu Honda oversees a menu highlighting genshiyaki, ironware-baked rice and robatayaki (skewers of meat, fish and veg grilled over a high heat and passed to diners over the counter). You can order skewers like roasted Awaji onion (¥640) or signature dishes like the salt-grilled nodoguro (black throat sea perch, ¥4,370) a la carte, but we recommend taking advantage of the course meals. For ¥5,500, you get a selection of sashimi, assorted appetisers, grilled fish, vegetables and rice, along with an all-you-can-drink deal that covers 20 types of sake served hot or cold, as well as beer, soft drinks and shochu-based drinks. Perfect for an impromptu outing with friends, Kanagari blends the charm of traditional Japanese dining with the easygoing vibes of a neighbourhood joint. àShin YS Bldg 3F, 7-16-12 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Nishi-Shinjuku Station). 050 5447 0797. kan-agari.jp. 5pm-11.30pm, Sat 4pm-11.30pm, Sun 4pm-11pm.

Kagurazaka Nikuyorozu

Tucked away in the quiet backstreets of Kagurazaka is a well-kept secret among those with a discerning taste for exceptional wagyu beef. Kagurazaka Nikuyorozu’s interior oozes sophistication, with a sleek wooden dining counter and walls painted in deep charcoal black, setting the stage for a memorable occasion. At the helm is Yosuke Ikeda, a chef whose career began at the age of 17. He honed his craft in prestigious yakiniku establishments throughout Jiyugaoka, Ginza and Nishiazabu, leading to his current position where his expertise and vision come to life. Kagurazaka Nikuyorozu dedicates itself to the art of charcoal-grilled wagyu, offering a sensory exploration of Japan’s most prized beef. Courses start at ¥7,000, beginning with beef sashimi and a fresh seasonal salad. Guests are then treated to an opulent beef and sea urchin roll, followed by delicately prepared shabu-shabu-style wagyu and succulently grilled lean cuts over charcoal. For guests who desire a bit more control over their dining adventure, the a la carte menu provides the opportunity to revisit favoured dishes or explore new ones not featured in the set course. àIsami Bldg 1F, 3-20 Tsukudocho, Shinjuku (Iidabashi Station). 03 3528 9750. nikuyorozu.jp/irori. 5pm-11pm daily.

Igor Cosy

Igor Cosy offers a unique blend of modern izakaya charm and the cosy ambience of a rustic French bistro. Here, you can indulge in seasonal claypot rice and rustic EuroJapanese dishes, all beautifully presented on handmade ceramics. The menu features small plates, perfect for sharing, allowing you to savour a variety of flavours. Whether you’re in the mood for a full dinner or just a few drinks over light snacks, this spot caters to all occasions. A selection of six or seven dishes will comfortably serve two people, with prices ranging from ¥8,000 to ¥10,000, excluding drinks. The restaurant takes pride in its signature claypot rice and slow-cooked, charcoalgrilled dishes, which are worth the wait. Begin your meal with a fresh salad of wild greens or a tempting basket of shumai dumplings crowned with sea urchin. Other highlights include sweetfish grilled genshiyaki-style, where the fish is seasoned with salt, skewered whole and cooked over embers until the meat is succulent and the skin is crisp. Alternatively, choose platters of succulent sliced chicken thighs and beef tenderloin. To complement your meal, Igor Cosy boasts an impressive drinks menu, featuring a selection of sake, natural wines and shochubased cocktails, including refreshing lemon or tomato sours. à1-3 Maruyamacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 050 5570 8535. instagram.com/igorcosy.shibuya. 5pm-11pm (last orders 10pm), closed Mon.

Genshiyaki Hibachi

Genshiyaki Hibachi is a unique, homely space that captures the essence of a cosy Japanese countryside hut. The interior is warmly lit by lanterns, highlighting an array of sake bottles that line the walls. Taking pride of place in the open kitchen is the irori, a traditional Japanese charcoal hearth, where chefs prepare grilled fish genshiyaki-style to bring out a rich, smoky flavour. Starting at ¥6,800, the course menu offers a selection of side dishes alongside the main event: expertly grilled fish and classic claypot rice. For those looking to enhance their dining experience, the ¥11,000 option includes upgraded claypot rice featuring ikura and snow crab. It also comes with a two-and-a-halfhour all-you-can-drink package covering draft beer, whisky highballs and a variety of sake and shochu cocktails. àNishikawa Bldg 2F, 7-9-13 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku-Nishiguchi Station). 050 5447 0805. hibachi.jp. 5pm-11pm, closed Sun.

January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

Shopping & Style

A taste of Japan Get ready to stock your pantry with a variety of Japanese foods and condiments that will take your home cooking to the next level. By Kaila Imada. Photography Kisa Toyoshima

MISO

Sano Miso

A trusted purveyor of fermented soybean paste since 1934, Sano Miso stocks an overwhelming selection of this umamipacked ingredient at its flagship store in Kameido. You’ll find 70 kinds of miso from across Japan, many of which are piled high in large barrels, with varieties often changing with the seasons. Different regions offer unique variations of this quintessential Japanese ingredient. For instance, miso from Nagano is made from rice and is usually

TOKYO IS A SHOPPING PARADISE for just about anything you can imagine, but it’s particularly great if you’re on the hunt for Japanese cooking ingredients and condiments. This is a country that takes its food seriously, and you can see this dedication through stores that specialise in one particular item or ingredient. Think artisanal tea shops and soy sauce stores to boutiques where you can pick up fresh miso and customise shichimi spice mixes. Whether it’s shopping for your kitchen or tasty gifts for foodie friends, these Tokyo shops will help you recreate the unique flavours of Japan.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2024

SOY SAUCE

Shokunin Soy Sauce Matsuya Ginza

No Japanese meal is complete without a dash of soy sauce, and Shokunin knows that very well. A soy sauce purveyor in the basement supermarket of Matsuya Ginza,

aged up to two years, while varieties from Aichi prefecture can be aged up to three years for a deeper, more intense, flavour. Head to the back of the shop and you’ll find a small eat-in soup bar where you can try different miso soups along with onigiri rice balls and other side dishes. If you’ve got a sweet tooth, don’t miss the savoury yet sweet miso pudding or miso French toast topped with decadent miso caramel. à1-35-8 Kameido, Koto (Kameido Station). 0120 120 685. sanmiso.com. 10am-6.30pm daily.

Shokunin offers a full range of options from salty to sweet, including styles you’ve probably never tasted before. The store stocks 120 varieties of shoyu from around 60 brewers across Japan, each packaged in small 100ml bottles. To help the uninitiated, 24 selected brews have been relabelled with helpful images of what food pairs best with it. For instance, you can find shoyu that’s perfect for sushi and gyoza to rich brews that are best tasted with steak or even ice cream. Each bottle is priced between ¥450 and ¥600, a bargain for sauce lovers. Box sets of two, three or five soy sauces make for a great gift. àMatsuya Ginza B2F, 3-6-1 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03 3567 1211. s-shoyu.com. 11am-8pm, Sun or last day of consecutive hols until 7.30pm, closed Jan 1-2.

Shopping & Style

TEA

Nakamura Tea Life Store

NINBEN

DASHI

If there’s one thing visitors to Japan should take home with them, it’s got to be a pack of quality tea leaves. Nestled among the cool shops and cafés in the Kuramae neighbourhood, Nakamura Tea Life Store is the Tokyo outpost of the Nakamura Tea Farm in Shizuoka prefecture, which has been growing tea for over 100 years. The shop’s organic tea leaves are all grown in the Shizuoka city of Fujieda and information is offered on each variety. The labels include the date the leaves were harvested, the field in which the tea was grown and the methods used when cultivating the tea. The wide assortment includes sencha (steamed green tea), genmaicha (brown rice tea), kocha (black tea), kukicha (twig tea) and hojicha (roasted green tea) as well as matcha tea powder. The shop also carries a curated selection of brewing equipment including beautiful ceramic teapots and utensils such as teaspoons.

Ninben Nihonbashi Main Shop

dealer that specialises in dried skipjack tuna. At the shop, freshly shaved flakes can be purchased by the bag, along with seasoned bases, dashi packs and other condiments. There’s even an in-store dashi bar where you can enjoy dashi broth as well as monthly soup and rice with dried skipjack tuna flakes.

à4-20-4 Kuramae, Taito (Kuramae Station). 03 5843 8744. tea-nakamura.com. 12noon-6pm, closed Mon.

àCoredo Muromachi 1, 2-2-1 Nihonbashimuromachi, Chuo (Mitsukoshimae Station). ninben.co.jp. 11am-7pm, Sat, Sun & hols 10.30am-7pm; dashi bar 11am-6pm (lunch until 2pm).

SHICHIMI

Yagenbori

Sit down at any Japanese restaurant and you’ll almost always find a small wooden box or shaker filled with a fragrant spice mix. This unique mixture is called shichimi togarashi, a delicious blend of seven ingredients. Depending on the region, there are many variations of shichimi, but you can get the original Tokyo version at Yagenbori in Asakusa. This shichimi mix contains sansho (Japanese pepper) powder, dried orange peel, black sesame, hemp seeds, poppy seeds and two kinds of chilli pepper. At Yagenbori, you can purchase different blends including the original medium-spicy mix as well as a mild and an extra spicy version. The shop even lets you create a custom blend based on your preference. You can also pick up other condiments and mix-ins for rice, including pickles, ochazuke toppings and even a special shichimi for Western food. There are two Yagenbori locations in Asakusa, but bear in mind that the metro location is closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays.

NAKAMURA TEA LIFE STORE

That umami flavour that we all know and love in Japanese cooking? It can be traced back to dashi, the distinctive broth made from a mix of kombu and dried fermented skipjack tuna. Dashi is the foundation of Japanese cuisine, often used as the base for dishes like ramen, miso soup and even tamagoyaki (rolled omelette). To make this staple at home, you can pick up the ingredients at Ninben Nihonbashi, a long-standing dashi

ONE-STOP SHOP

Akomeya Tokyo La Kagu

Don’t have time to drop into all these individual stores? No worries. At Akomeya Tokyo’s flagship store in Kagurazaka, you can shop for a range of kitchenware and foodstuffs all at one convenient location. Akomeya Tokyo specialises in rice, but you’ll also find senbei rice crackers, tea, salad dressings, miso paste, seasonings, sweets and much more. à67 Yaraicho, Shinjuku (Kagurazaka Station). 03 5946 8241. akomeya.jp. 11am-8pm daily.

à1-28-3 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 3626 7716. yagenbori.jp. 10am-6pm daily.

January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

Class action

KINTSUGI

From fake food to flower arrangements, Tokyo’s many artisanal workshops and classes offer the chance to learn Japanese crafts. By Kaila Imada

MAKERS’ BASE

IF YOU’RE LOOKING to get a taste of Japan’s impeccable

sense of craftsmanship, there’s no better way than to sign up for a workshop in Tokyo. Whether it’s indigo-dyeing or the art of kintsugi, there are many opportunities to hone in on traditional Japanese crafts. To top it all off, these workshops will leave you with a special memento that you can take home with you, plus new skills that will stay with you.

GANSO SHOKUHIN SAMPLE-YA

Ever wondered how they make those tempting fake food samples in front of restaurants? To discover how they can look so realistic and mouth-watering, sign up for a workshop at Ganso Shokuhin Sample-ya in Kappabashi Kitchen Town. One of Tokyo’s main food replica suppliers, the shop offers classes where you can participate in crafting tempura and lettuce replicas out of wax. You’ll get to pick two food items which you will cover with a wax ‘tempura batter’ as well as craft a small head of iceberg lettuce. The helpful staff speak English and are attentive in helping you through every step of the process. Once complete, your food samples will be packed in takeaway food packaging so that you can easily take them home. Beware though, these samples really do look good enough to eat.

à ¥2,500 per person. 3-7-6 Nishiasakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station). 0120 171 839. ganso-sample.com.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2024

à¥4,500 per person. 1-1-11 Nakane, Meguro (Toritsudaigaku Station). makersbasekintsugi.com.

TOP: MAKERS’ BASE; LEFT: KISA TOYOSHIMA

FOOD REPLICA

workshop. After you’ve learnt how to reshape your vessel with putty, synthetic lacquer is applied to the broken areas before being finished off with gold or silver powder. If you already have a broken item, you can bring it in with you to fix. Otherwise, you can purchase a vessel at the workshop for ¥1,500 a piece.

Kintsugi is the traditional art of restoring broken ceramics with lacquer and gold. The practice of mending pottery through this technique has been around for centuries. It highlights the beauty of imperfections while symbolising that broken things can be made more resilient than before. At Makers’ Base, you can repair your choice of ceramics, porcelain or glassware at a two-hour

KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Things to Do

MIZUNO DYE FACTORY HIBIYA OKUROJI

Traditional indigo dyeing, or aizome, dates back to the Edo period (1603-1868) when everything from kimono to futon covers were dyed this rich blue colour. Today, most modern fabrics are synthetically coloured, but the art of aizome is kept alive by a few places in and around Tokyo still practising this traditional art. If you’re looking to try it out for yourself, head to Mizuno Dye Factory at Hibiya Okuroji, a studio and store that offers indigo-dyeing experiences every weekend. After booking a session, you can purchase items at the store, which you can use to dye,

MIKA OTANI

AIZOME including T-shirts, tenugui towels, cloth bags and hoodies. Alternatively, you can bring your own items as long as the material is made of cotton, linen, silk or rayon. The cost of the workshop is determined by the item you pick or the weight of the item you bring in (¥44 per gram). The experience is held every Saturday and Sunday at noon, 2pm and 4pm. Weekday sessions are possible with prior arrangement. à From ¥3,300 or ¥44 per gram. 1-7-1 Uchisaiwaicho, Chiyoda (Yurakucho, Hibiya stations). 03 6205 8203. hanten.tokyo.

IKEBANA ATELIER SOKA

Less is more when it comes to Japanese flower arrangements, particularly the art of ikebana. The workshops taught at Atelier Soka follow the Sogetsu style of ikebana, which is considered more modern than traditional styles. Arrangements made according to this particular approach are ideal for artistic displays in public spaces and, of course, at home. There are a number of Englishfriendly classes at Atelier Soka, including one hosted by Japanese floral artist Mika Otani, where you’ll learn the basic skills of ikebana and have the chance to mingle with other practitioners. The class will equip you with all the tools you’ll need, including special ikebana scissors, flowers, and the kenzan or the small spiky tool you use to hold the flowers in place. While you learn the basics of arranging beautiful florals, the class will also delve into the deeper meaning behind ikebana, which allows you to showcase a sense of self-expression.

SOKICHI

à ¥18,000 per person. 3F, 4-12-8 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station). 080 5099 4461. atelier-soka.com.

EDO KIRIKO SOKICHI

One of Tokyo’s homegrown crafts, edo kiriko is the art of cutting beautiful geometric patterns into colourful glassware. The art has been around for nearly 200 years, and there are still artisans in Tokyo dedicated to creating the most beautiful glass tableware and accessories, such as Sokichi in Asakusa. Edo kiriko can be etched into many types of glassware including sake glasses, tea cups and even flower vases. At Sokichi, you can try

crafting a kiriko glass after being inspired by the samples provided. The workshop takes about 90 minutes and is available in Japanese, English and Chinese. You can etch a design on either transparent or coloured glass, with designs ranging from simple beginner styles to more difficult, elaborate patterns.

SEE MORE TIMEOUT.COM/ TOKYO

à ¥3,620 (under 18s ¥2,750). 2-1-14 Kaminarimon, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 3843 1119. en.sokichi-workshop.com.

January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

Advertisement feature

Laugh out loud in Shibuya Get your giggles on at the English-friendly Yoshimoto Comedy Night Owarai in Shibuya WHEN YOU’RE IN NEED OF a good laugh, nothing is quite as comical as owarai, or Japanese comedy. Owarai shows consist of comedians performing for an audience and these are usually televised. However, unless you speak Japanese, these shows can be a bit hard to follow. Thankfully, Japanese comedy has become a lot more accessible thanks to Yoshimoto Comedy Night Owarai, a 60-minute English-friendly live comedy show hosted in Shibuya every Friday and Saturday from 8.30pm. The shows are organised by Yoshimoto Kogyo, one of Japan’s most renowned entertainment companies. Performances are scheduled throughout the week and include a number of ridiculously funny non-verbal acts that show off the charms of Japanese physical comedy. Hilarity ensues from the moment the show begins with a cheeky emcee to guide you through the setlist of performers. There’s a total of six acts that take the stage with some notable Japanese comedians often included on the bill. Some of the performers may even look a bit familiar as they have had stints on international TV programmes such as ‘America’s Got Talent’. On our visit, we had the opportunity to catch comedian Kumada Masashi and the duo Bambino. There was even an appearance by balloon artists Renge and a fantastic musical performance by Yamada Genki. The highlight of the show was the highly anticipated Mr Uekusa who also goes by the name of Wes-P. Mr Uekusa is known for his ridiculous tablecloth tricks where he can seemingly pull out a cloth and balance a cup and saucer from literally any part of his body. Many of the acts enjoy interacting with the audience, which helps keep everyone on their toes. The intimate stage space gives you the opportunity to join their funny games and, if you’re lucky, you might even be presented with a prop or two to take home as a souvenir. The fun’s not limited to Tokyo. Bringing laughter to the Kansai crowds, Yoshimoto Comedy Night Owarai also takes place in Osaka.

Yoshimoto Comedy Night Owarai àYoshimoto ∞ (Mugendai) Dome, 7F Shibuya Beam, 31-2 Udagawa-cho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station) àEvery Friday and Saturday from 8.30pm àPrice: ¥2,000, plus one drink for ¥600 àyoshimoto-comedy-night.com

Tokyo Update

Tomigaya Your guide to one of the world’s coolest neighbourhoods. By Lim Chee Wah

Shibuya give way to low-rises and quiet residential streets. The pace feels more relaxed and the businesses are more independent and mom-and-pop. Despite Tomigaya’s unassuming, low profile character, there’s no shortage of trendy cafés and stylish stores here, burrowed in side streets among fantastic restaurants and local grocers. But what makes Tomigaya even more appealing is its proximity to one of Tokyo’s largest green spaces, Yoyogi Park, which often hosts food festivals and cultural celebrations, and is great for cherry blossom picnics in spring.

IT’S SOMETHING WE’VE ALWAYS

known – and now 12,000 city dwellers and a panel of Time Out city editors around the world agree with us: Tomigaya, the inner Shibuya district, is one of the world’s coolest neighbourhoods. In fact, it’s in the top 10 of Time Out’s annual list of the greatest places for fun, food, culture and community. Even though it’s less than 15 minutes’ walk from Shibuya Crossing, Tomigaya seems a world apart from the frenetic pace of the iconic intersection. Here, the multi-storey buildings and crisscrossing train lines of central

SPBS

WELCOME TO

Shibuya Publishing & Booksellers

Don’t expect to find bestsellers here. Instead, this hip bookstore (SPBS Tokyo) is all about encouraging new discoveries – from the predominantly Japanese titles to the small but tasteful selections of vintage clothing, bags, accessories and stationery. à17-3 Kamiyamacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 5465 0588. shibuyabooks.co.jp. 11am-9pm daily.

Cidernaut

This relaxed speciality bar has up to 12 Japanese and imported ciders on tap. The regularly changing selection covers a range of styles from sweet to dry as well as single varietal to fruit-infused ciders. Lunch offers one of the best deals around, with various curry rice plates and house-made filled bagels priced between ¥1,000 and ¥1,500. àHoriuchi Bldg 1F, 16-4 Kamiyamacho, Shibuya (Shibuya, Yoyogikoen stations). 12noon-11.30pm daily (food last orders 10.30pm, drinks 11pm; lunch until 2.30pm).

Katsudonya Zuicho

This family-run eight-seater is in the same building as Fukudaitoryo and also only serves one dish: katsudon (¥1,500), or deep-fried breaded pork cutlet, drenched in a sweetsavoury soy sauce-based dressing, served atop a runny omelette and rice. The only decision you need to make is size of the rice portion and if you want an extra egg (¥100). Easy! à41-26 Udagawacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). tinyurl.com/ TOTzuicho. 11.30am-6pm, Sat 11.30am-8pm, closed Sun & hols.

One of the most well-curated home goods purveyors in Shibuya, Lost and Found Tokyo Store predominantly carries fine bone china by renowned Japanese ceramics brand Nikko. Supplementing this is a carefully chosen selection of beautifully designed items for bathrooms, gardens, home offices and kitchens.

BEASTY COFFEE

KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Lost and Found Tokyo Store

à1-15-12 Tomigaya, Shibuya (Yoyogi-koen, Yoyogi-Hachiman stations). 03 5454 8925. lost-found-store.jp. 11am-7pm, closed Tue.

Pork Vindaloo Taberu Fukudaitoryo Beasty Coffee This tiny restaurant is so good at making just one dish that it’s received a Bib Gourmand nod from the Michelin Guide. Here, you’ll be served a plate of pork vindaloo, a spicy, vinegary Portuguese-Indian curry from Goa. And it’s very affordable: the curry and rice comes with a hard-boiled egg and refillable chopped salad for just ¥1,000.

Beasty Coffee is one of those new-wave cafés that do their sample roasting in-store. The clean, minimal space with washed concrete is a beauty, and so is the house-blend coffee, which you can order as cold brew, pour over, or one of the many espresso-based variations. Just don’t forget to also grab a piece of the decadent matcha terrine.

Pignon

àPapier Bldg 2F, 41-26 Udagawacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). tinyurl.com/TOTporkVTF. 11.30am-3.30pm (last orders 3pm), 5.30pm-9pm (8.30pm), Sat, Sun & hols 11.30am-5pm (4.30pm).

à1-19-3 Tomigaya, Shibuya (Yoyogi-koen Station). tinyurl.com/TOTbeasty. 9am-9pm daily.

à16-3 Kamiyamacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3468 2331. 6pm-10.30pm (last orders 9.30pm), closed Sun.

Owner-chef Rimpei Yoshikawa’s rustic little bistro is anchored in French cooking but celebrates locally sourced seasonal produce. Vegetables come from a farmers’ market in Tokyo, the beef is from Gunma, and the seafood is from Mie. While everything on the menu is hearty and innovative, the fish dishes in particular highlight Yoshikawa’s impeccable execution.

January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

Art & Culture KEITH HARING: ART TO THE STREETS

Keith Haring (1958-1990) is synonymous with the New York street art scene that, from the early 1980s onwards, he played a key role in instigating. Haring’s belief that art should be for everybody inspired him to begin creating now-iconic works in subway stations and other public sites, while a strong sense of social justice saw him imbue his work with direct, easily understood statements. These included criticism of indifference to the HIV-AIDS crisis that was then claiming lives (including, ultimately, Haring’s own), and affirmations of hope for younger generations.

FIREFLY BIOSPHERE (FALLING MAGMA STAR), 2023. STUDIO OLAFUR ELIASSON, BERLIN. PHOTO: JENS ZIEHE

Your guide to the best Tokyo art shows to see this winter. By Darren Gore

OLAFUR ELIASSON: A HARMONIOUS CYCLE OF INTERCONNECTED NOWS

Olafur Eliasson creates work that’s truly of our time. This IcelandicDanish artist wows audiences with large-scale installations that play with perceptions of light, colour and other natural phenomena, while simultaneously focusing attention on environmental issues that increasingly threaten our planet. This inaugural exhibition of Azabudai Hills Gallery, located within the new Azabudai Hills development, explores ideas central to the artwork that Eliasson has created for the lobby of Azabudai Hills Mori JP Tower. This installation (which shares its title with the exhibition) consists of four 3D sculptures made up of a complex series of Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2024

polyhedra. These sculptures, made with recycled metal and suspended in an atrium, depict the twisting trajectory of a single point while alluding to the connection between all of creation at an atomic level. The exhibition features no fewer than 15 works shown in Japan for the first time, including the stunning ‘Firefly biosphere (falling magma star)’ (2023), which is a geometric sculpture containing intricately refracted light. Another must-see is ‘Your split second house’ (2010), in which strobe-illuminated water droplets travel through a dark, 20m-long space.

HENRI MATISSE: FORMS IN FREEDOM

Renowned 20th century master Henri Matisse (1869-1954), though best known as a painter, was a true multimedia artist whose creativity also spanned sculpture, printmaking and other forms. This is the very first exhibition in Japan to focus on the French artist’s work

àAzabudai Hills Gallery, until Mar 31. MBF Azabudai Hills Garden Plaza A, 5-8-1 Toranomon, Minato. Mon, Wed, Thu & Sun 10am-7pm, Tue 10am-5pm, Fri, Sat & hols 10am-8pm.

Through around 150 works, including large-scale pieces spanning up to six metres, this retrospective traces Haring’s journey from the underground scene to global celebrity, while demonstrating how his creativity remained a vibrant form of messaging that continues to resonate today. Unique to this exhibition is a rare look at Haring’s activity in late ’80s Tokyo, and the influence that Eastern thought and calligraphy had upon his work. àMori Arts Center Gallery, until Feb 25. Roppongi Hills Mori Tower 52F, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato. 050 5541 8600 (Hello Dial). 10am-7pm, Fri & Sat 10am-8pm (Dec 31-Jan 3 11am-6pm).

with paper cut-outs, the medium he energetically pursued in the last decade-and-a-half of his life. Works on loan from the Matisse Museum in Nice, France show how the artist began creating expressionistic collages composed of scissor-cut pieces of paper in a multitude of colours.The subjects and themes of these cutout works included the female form, avian life, and a distinctive twodimensional take on the flowersand-fruit still life. While initially modest in size, these cut-outs grew in scale to become murals spanning entire walls: the largest example featured here is some eight metres wide. Also on show is a selection of works in other media, including painting, ink brush on paper, and stained glass. àThe National Art Center, Tokyo, Feb 14-May 27. 7-22-2 Roppongi, Minato. 047 316 2772. 10am-6pm (last entry 30 mins before closing), Fri & Sat 10am-8pm, closed Tue.

Major draws

Art & Culture

MODES AND CHARACTERS: POETICS OF GRAPHIC DESIGN

OUR ECOLOGY: SAIJO AKANE, 'ORCHARD', 2022, CERAMIC, 130X82X82CM. INSTALLATION VIEW: PHANTOM BODY, ARTCOURT GALLERY, OSAKA, 2022. PHOTO: KORODA TAKERU

21_21 Design Sight presents an exhibition exploring the history of modern graphic design, with a special focus on how, since the 1990s, computer-based desktop publishing (DTP) technology has revolutionised the potential to make arrangements of text and images ‘sing’ on both digital screen and printed page. Diverse work from around 50 Japanese and international graphic designers forms a total of 13 themed areas. Topics covered include how Japan’s distinctive graphic culture (encompassing hiragana, katakana and romanised text in both horizontal and vertical formats, and ample use of images) has come to interact with digital technology, and what future possibilities may emerge from this relationship. Individual exhibits range from magazine covers to the ‘etiquette’ posters seen on Japanese trains, from designers including Experimental Jetset from the Netherlands, Japan’s Noritake, the UK’s The Designers Republic, and France’s M/M (Paris). à21_21 Design Sight, until Mar 10. Gallery 1 & 2, 9-7-6 Akasaka, Minato. 03 3475 2121. 10am-7pm (last entry 6.30pm), closed Tue (except Dec 26) & Dec 27-Jan 3.

TRIBUTE TO RYUICHI SAKAMOTO

Ryuichi Sakamoto, who passed away in 2023, was one of Japan’s most globally influential musicians and composers. Following early success as a member of 1980s techno pioneers Yellow Magic Orchestra (YMO), Tokyo-born Sakamoto established himself as an ever forwardthinking solo artist with music that ranged from electronic

àMori Art Museum, until Mar 31. Roppongi Hills Mori Tower 53F, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato. 050 5541 8600. 10am-10pm (last entry 30 mins before closing), Tue 10am-5pm (except Jan 2 & Mar 19 until 10pm).

NAKAHIRA TAKUMA: BURN – OVERFLOW

This is the first full-scale retrospective of Takuma Nakahira (1938-2015), a photographer whose influence on the art form is increasingly recognised the world over. Beginning his career in the late 1960s, Nakahira was a member of the collective that produced Provoke, a magazine whose brief lifespan belies its lasting impact: the publication popularised the are, bure, bokeh (‘rough, blurred and out-of-focus’) black-andwhite aesthetic still embraced by photographers today. As this exhibition demonstrates through around 400 pieces, Nakahira’s work went on to question the act of photography itself from an intellectual standpoint. This was followed by a curious form of artistic reinvention, prompted by memory loss resulting from illness the photographer suffered in the

àNTT InterCommunication Center, until Mar 10. Tokyo Opera City Tower 4F, 3-20-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 0120 144 199. 11am-6pm (last entry 5.30pm), closed Mon, Dec 28-Jan 4 & Feb 11.

late 1970s. From then on, Nakahira used vivid colour photography as a means of piecing back together the fragments of memory at home in Yokohama, and in far-off Okinawa. àThe National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo, Feb 6-Apr 7. 3-1 Kitanomarukoen, Chiyoda. 050 5541 8600. 10am-5pm, Fri & Sat 10am-8pm, closed Mon (if hols, closed Tue).

FRONTIERS OF IMPRESSIONISM: PAINTINGS FROM THE WORCESTER ART MUSEUM

This event marks the 150th anniversary of the First Impressionist Exhibition held in Paris, which revolutionised conventions of Western art, by exploring the impact Impressionist painters had in Europe and, subsequently, the USA. Organised by The Worcester Art Museum of Boston, Massachusetts, which has been collecting Impressionist art since opening in 1898, ‘Frontiers of Impressionism’ shows how artists from around the world gathered in late 19th century Paris to study the techniques of then-emerging Impressionism, before returning to their home countries and further innovating in the genre. Most of the work featured here has never before been shown in Japan. Expect French originators of Impressionism such as Claude Monet and Pierre-Auguste Renoir, key American Impressionists including Childe Hassam, and notable painters from Germany and Scandinavia. àTokyo Metropolitan Art Museum, Jan 27-Apr 7. 8-36 Ueno Park, Taito. 050 5541 8600 (Hello Dial). 9.30am-5.30pm, Fri 9.30am-8pm (last entry 30 mins before closing), closed Mon (if hols, closed Tue).

PAUL SIGNAC, ‘GOLFE JUAN’, 1896, OIL ON CANVAS, WORCESTER ART MUSEUM, GIFT FROM THE CHAPIN AND MARY ALEXANDER RILEY COLLECTION, 1964.27. IMAGE COURTESY OF THE WORCESTER ART MUSEUM

OHARA DAIJIRO, 'BLACKBOARD', 2009

MORE SHOWS TO SEE

‘Return to Earth’ explores Japanese art from the 1950s to the ’80s, a period in which the country’s economic boom brought with it industrial pollution. ‘The Great Acceleration’ features works revealing humankind’s exploitation of natural resources, yet also offers a sense of hope. Finally, ‘The Future is Within Us’ looks at contemporary discussion around using technologies to draft possible futures through artistic expressions of feminism, spirituality, and more.

experimentation to soundtracks for major feature films. His most well-known work remains ‘Forbidden Colours’, written for 1983 movie ‘Merry Christmas, Mr. Lawrence’ (in which Sakamoto also acted, alongside David Bowie). As demonstrated by this tribute exhibition, from the dawn of the 1990s Sakamoto’s impulse to innovate led him to increasingly incorporate multimedia technology into his work. Exhibition co-curator Daito Manabe of art/technology collective Rhizomatiks, a close friend of Sakamoto, has created new work for this event that is based upon performance data left behind by the late artist. These creations are complemented by work from the many Japanese and international artists who enjoyed connections with Sakamoto, and a programme of concerts, film screenings and other events.

OUR ECOLOGY: TOWARD A PLANETARY LIVING

Mori Art Museum marks its 20th anniversary with this highly pertinent exhibition, which explores the response of contemporary art to the ongoing environmental crisis. Around 100 works from 34 Japanese and international artists, including pieces created especially for this event, form four exhibition ‘chapters’: together these urge us to consider environmental issues from a broader perspective that transcends the human-centric. ‘All Is Connected’, the first chapter, touches upon how human activity intertwines with ecosystems, while the subsequent

January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

Music & Nightlife

Cool, gorgeous and cocktail-forward hotel bars that appeal even to non-staying guests. By Lim Chee Wah GONE ARE THE DAYS when hotel bars were seen

as the preserve of world-weary business travellers with corporate expense accounts. Now, a growing number of hotels in Tokyo are working hard to scrub off that stuffy image and instead create distinctive bars with hip design and inventive cocktails to appeal to discerning drinkers. The New York Bar at the Park Hyatt Tokyo was arguably the first hotel bar in the city to elevate itself into a destination venue in its own right, in part thanks to its starring role in the 2003 film ‘Lost in Translation’. But as the famous drinking establishment is closing from January 9 to March 31 as part of the building’s renovations, we take a look at three other hotel bars in Tokyo that are worth going out of your way for.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2024

Virtù at Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Otemachi

Hotel bars, in particular those in luxury properties, are often too genteel and intimidating, especially for nonstaying guests. But Virtù at the Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Otemachi breaks all luxury hotel bar stereotypes with fun and flair. The inspectors for Asia’s 50 Best Bars seemed to agree, as they placed Virtù in 20th place on the prestigious 2023 list. Perched on the 39th floor with floor-to-ceiling glass windows, Virtù naturally has a gorgeous view of the financial district skyscrapers as well as Tokyo Skytree. But you might be too taken by the handsome interior to pay any heed to what’s outside. The art deco-inspired design brings to mind ‘The Great Gatsby’ and the style of the Roaring Twenties. The menu features a surprising list of rare and vintage French alcohol, especially cognacs and armagnacs,

Smoked Ume Fashioned

complemented by a commendable selection of Japanese whiskies and spirits. This Paris-meets-Tokyo sensibility is also present in the conceptual menu, which categorises its extensive cocktail list into seven virtues derived from Japanese and French folklore. A highlight is the super-smooth Smoked Ume Fashioned, which puts a twist on the classic old-fashioned by pairing homemade brandy umeshu (plum liquor) with an elegant Japanese whisky and woody hinoki bitters. à39F, 1-2-1 Otemachi, Chiyoda (Otemachi Station). 03 6810 0655. tinyurl.com/TOTvirtu. Sun-Wed & hols 5pm-12midnight (food last orders 11pm, drinks 11.30pm), Thu-Sat 5pm-12.30am (11pm; 12.30am).

FOUR SEASONS

Raising the bars

Music & Nightlife

301 COMPANY INC.

TRUNK

NOW OPEN

Trunk Lounge at Trunk Hotel Cat Street

NIKOLAS KOENIG

Trunk Hotel’s bar and lounge is the envy of many city hotels, as it has managed to become a social hub rather than just another watering hole. By day, you’ll find digital nomads and remote workers hammering away on their laptops at the communal tables – all equipped with power outlets and free wifi – while subsisting on strong shots of espresso. After sundown, Trunk Lounge turns up the hip factor, with DJs spinning an energetic mix of Japanese dancepop and downtempo lounge tunes. Better yet, the volume here is perfectly pitched: loud enough to create a lively vibe but not so much that it inhibits conversation. Combined with the cool but relaxed atmosphere, comfy sofas and semi-private corners, this is the perfect date bar in Shibuya. And if you need a conversation starter, just take a look at the art installations around you. These head-

Lobby Bar at The Tokyo Edition, Toranomon

The meeting of two masterminds – Japanese starchitect Kengo Kuma and legendary Studio 54 co-founder Ian Schrager – has made The Tokyo Edition, Toranomon a unique hotel. And the pair’s DNA is best showcased at the Lobby Bar. Schrager’s social sensibilities ensure that the bar is a party destination, while Kuma’s signature woodwork, taking inspiration from Tokyo’s elegant temple

Getting Trunk

turning pieces are created by local artists and they get switched out regularly. The drinks menu is just as eye-catching. The cocktails in particular are varied, inspired and named with a dose of wit. Take the bar’s signature concoction ‘Getting Trunk’ for example. Now in its third iteration, the lip-smacking shochu-based drink mixes shiso, myoga (Japanese ginger), China China (orangebased bitter liqueur), Kina (French winebased aperitif) and lemon. This cocktail tastes and smells like a forest in a cup, especially when you get a whiff of calming hinoki (Japanese cypress) with every sip. à 5-31 Jingumae, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 5766 3210. catstreet.trunk-hotel.com. Sun-Thu 9am-11pm (last orders 10.30pm), Fri & Sat 9am-12midnight (11.30pm).

architecture, imbues it with a welcome dimension of tranquillity – the venue hits the sweet spot between cool and calm. Moreover, with the hundreds of potted plants in here, this lush ‘jungle bar’ sets up the most captivating contrast to the concrete sprawl outside the floor-to-ceiling windows which, at 31 floors up, offer a jaw-dropping view of Tokyo Tower. The Lobby Bar’s cocktail list may be short, but it’s well curated, featuring inventive concoctions using Japanese spirits and ingredients. Accompanying this is an extensive array of alcohol ranging from wine, sake and champagne to hard liquors including gin, whisky, scotch, tequila and more. You should also ask for the ever-exciting seasonal drinks menu, which in the past has included fresh and modern takes on classic disco cocktails.

ONE OF YOYOGI-UEHARA’S most stylish hangouts, No. (as in the abbreviation for ‘number’) café and bar found a new home in the neighbourhood’s new Cabo complex. And it’s looking cooler than ever, with a gorgeous interior that blends contemporary Japanese aesthetics with laidback Scandinavian vibes – think slatted timber panels, wood finishing and minimalist lines. The short but sweet cocktail list is the handiwork of bar consultant Soran Nomura, whose experience spans some of Tokyo’s most renowned establishments including The SG Club, Fuglen Tokyo and Ao Bar. There are five signature cocktails (¥1,200-¥1,500) riffing off classics including pisco sours, manhattans and gimlets. This is complemented by craft beer on tap, natural wine by the bottle and glass, and three similarly creative mocktails (all ¥1,200) featuring ingredients such as non-alcoholic Aperol, yoghurt and framboise vinegar. The full cocktail menu gets going from 6pm, but if you want to start early, there are three daytime cocktails including the super smooth Negroni Modern. The better-behaved can opt for coffee and tea (from ¥600; until 4pm), perfectly accompanied by a slice of carrot cake (¥450), banana bread (¥450) or classic croissant (¥470). à 1-32-3 Uehara, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Uehara Station). 03 6712 5068. no.301.jp. 9am-4pm (last orders) daily, 6pm-12midnight (Wed-Sun).

à 4-1-1 Toranomon, Minato (Kamiyacho Station). 03 5422 1630. lobbybar.toranomonedition.com. Sun-Thu 7.30am-11pm (food last orders 10pm, drinks 10.30pm), Fri, Sat & hol eve 7.30am-11.30pm (10.30pm; 11pm).

January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

Getting Around Go further

Five of the best value train deals for unforgettable day trips from Tokyo. By Youka Nagase Where you’ll go: The Kanto region on the east of Japan’s Honshu island has a lot to offer – there’s the hot springs of Nasu, the beaches of Boso and Izu, the mountain resort of Karuizawa in Nagano, and the ski resorts of Gala Yuzawa and Echigo Yuzawa (pictured above). And that’s just for starters. The deal: The JR Tokyo Wide Pass will get you unlimited rides for three consecutive days on the JR East lines, Tokyo Monorail, Izu Kyuko line, Fujikyu Railway line, Joshin Dentetsu line, Saitama New Urban Transit (between Omiya and the Railway Museum) and Tokyo Waterfront

cool bars, elegant temples, trendy shops and lush green parks – but sometimes you just want to get away from the bustling pace of this cosmopolitan metropolis for a breather. Thankfully, Japan’s Tokyocentric rail network offers quick, direct and easy access to some of the country’s most scenic delights. What’s more, many railway companies offer exclusive visitors-only train deals. These passes often don’t just include return trips from Tokyo, but also local transport when you reach your destination and discounts at local attractions. So what’s holding you back? Adventure awaits…

Nikko Toshogu Shrine Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2024

SEAN PAVONE/DREAMSTIME

Nikko All Area Pass

Where you’ll go: A historical old town in Tochigi prefecture, Nikko is popular for its Unesco World Heritage-listed shrines and temples and lush nature. The spectacular Nikko Toshogu Shrine is a particular draw beloved for its ornate architectural details, especially the ‘see no evil, speak no evil and hear no evil’ monkey carvings. The deal: This Nikko pass gets you a round-trip between Asakusa and Shimo-Imaichi, and includes unlimited rides with Tobu Railway from Shimo-Imaichi to Tobu-Nikko and Shin-Fujiwara stations for four days. It also grants you access to the Lake Chuzenji sightseeing cruise plus any Tobu Bus in Nikko. On weekends,

Area Rapid Transit line. Plus, limited portions of selected shinkansen lines. You can also travel on reserved seating in the ordinary cars of express lines with through operations between JR East and Tobu Railway, specifically the Nikko, Kinugawa and Spacia Kinugawa trains. Also included are the ordinary and rapid trains along the Tobu Railway lines between Shimo-Imaichi and TobuNikko/Kinugawa-Onsen stations. Price: ¥15,000, children ¥7,500 Where to buy: JR East Travel Service Centers (within the pass area) and JR-East Train Reservation website. àtinyurl.com/TokyoWidePass

you can even hop on the shuttle bus servicing Nikko Edomura and NikkoKinugawa Onsen for free. Keep your ticket with you when you’re going around Nikko, as many attractions including the outdoor skating rink at Nikko Kirifuri Skate Center and Kosugi Hoan Museum of Art offer special discounts to those who flash the pass. Price: ¥4,780, children ¥1,330 (Apr 20-Nov 30); ¥4,160, children ¥1,080 (Dec 1-Apr 19) Where to buy: Tobu Tourist Information Center at Asakusa Station and Klook. This pass is limited to non-Japanese passport holders (Japan’s foreign residents included). àtinyurl.com/NikkoAllArea

CHIKUWA/ISTOCK

JR Tokyo Wide Pass

TOKYO HAS EVERYTHING – great food,

Kawagoe old town

JOSHUA HAWLEY/DREAMSTIME

Getting Around

Kawagoe Discount Pass Premium

Where you’ll go: Affectionately also known as ‘Little Edo’, Kawagoe is an old town in Saitama prefecture, right next to Tokyo. Just 30 minutes away, this nostalgic little spot looks like a Japanese period movie set with its host of traditional shops and warehouses, many of which have been beautifully preserved and turned into cafés and restaurants. The deal: The discount pass gets you a roundtrip journey on the Tobu line from Ikebukuro to Kawagoe, plus unlimited rides on local Tobu buses for a day. Show your pass at selected attractions and shops to be eligible for a discount or gift with purchase. Price: ¥1,050, children ¥540 Where to buy: Tobu Tourist Information Center and Tobu Tojo line counters at Ikebukuro Station.

Where you’ll go: The mountain onsen town of Hakone is only about 90 minutes by train from central Tokyo, making it a popular weekend destination. Aside from the rejuvenating hot spring baths, this lush resort is also known for its art museums, scenic ropeway across Owakudani volcano crater, views of Mt Fuji, and the gorgeous Lake Ashi with its ‘floating’ red torii gate. The deal: With the Hakone Freepass, you can get a round-trip ticket from Shinjuku Station to Odawara Station on the Odakyu line, and unlimited rides on local public transport once you’re there. These eight services in Hakone are included in the deal: Hakone Tozan line, Hakone Tozan Cable Car, Hakone Ropeway, Hakone Sightseeing Cruise (on the aforementioned Lake Ashi), Hakone Tozan Bus (in designated areas), Odakyu Highway Bus (in designated areas), Tokai Bus (in designated areas), and the Kanko Shisetsu Meguri sightseeing bus. Price: Two-day pass from Shinjuku ¥6,100, children ¥1,100; three-day pass from Shinjuku ¥6,500, children ¥1,350. For a faster and more comfortable trip, you can upgrade to the Limited Express

Romancecar train between Shinjuku and Hakone-Yumoto with a surcharge of ¥1,200 one way. Where to buy: Odakyu Sightseeing Service Centers, ticket vending machines at Odakyu line stations, and via the EMot app.

Enoshima island

àtinyurl.com/HakoneFP

Enoshima-Kamakura Freepass

Lake Ashi in Hakone

TORSAKARIN/ISTOCK

Hakone Freepass

SERGE001/ISTOCK

àtinyurl.com/KawagoeDPP

Where you’ll go: For a quick and easy day trip, head south of Tokyo to explore Kamakura, a coastal town known for its historical temples, and Enoshima island. The deal: The Enoshima-Kamakura Freepass includes a round-trip ticket on the Odakyu line between Shinjuku Station and Fujisawa Station, and unlimited rides on the Odakyu line between Fujisawa and Katase-Enoshima stations, as well as the entire Enoden line. You’ll also receive discounts at many major tourist attractions, shops and restaurants including Enoshima Aquarium, Enoshima Sea Candle and Kamakura Museum of Literature. Price: ¥1,640, children ¥430 Where to buy: Odakyu Sightseeing Service Centers, ticket vending machines at Odakyu line stations, and via the EMot app. àtinyurl.com/EKfreepass

Note: For full details on each train pass/ deal, check with the respective providers. January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

Travel & Hotels

Check in, bliss out A new crop of cool hotels are making Japan even more irresistible as a holiday destination. By Lim Chee Wah

DUSIT THANI KYOTO

BOTANICAL POOL CLUB, CHIBA pool, as well as five food and drink venues. The latter includes the signature Thai restaurant Ayatana, which is overseen by the founding chefs of the now-closed Michelin-starred Thai fine dining restaurant Bo.lan in Bangkok. All that coupled with a sunken Japanese garden taking pride of place in the central courtyard, Dusit Thani Kyoto feels like a sumptuous self-contained sanctuary in its own right. This is a bubble of serenity you would appreciate coming back to after a day out sightseeing among the crowds. à466 Nishinotoin, Nishinotoin-dori Shomen agaru, Shimogyo, Kyoto. 075 343 7150. dusit.com/dusitthani-kyoto. Rooms from ¥30,000 (subject to change; excluding tax & service).

It’s easy to mistake this gorgeous property for a holiday resort in Bali. After all, it has all the markings of a sumptuous tropical retreat: lofty, sunny spaces accented with botanical prints, lush jungle grounds, and an infinity pool that appears to extend out to the sea. But the Botanical Pool Club is in Chiba prefecture, about 90 minutes from Tokyo Station (85 minutes express bus plus five minutes taxi). The resort’s verdant landscape is the work of Japanese plant hunter Seijun Nishihata, who curated about 300 kinds of tropical plants for the sprawling 10,000sqm premises. Despite the extensive grounds, Botanical Pool Club is an intimate property with only 21 rooms including a pool villa, all designed with a contemporary minimalist aesthetic. There are also two saunas and a circular dipping pool, but nothing beats the resort’s pièce de résistance: a 40-metre-long infinity pool. What makes this Black Pool, as it’s called, extra special is that it’s aligned to the direction of the setting sun. Here you can bask in the golden hour, see the sun dip over the horizon, and on clear days, catch sight of Mt Fuji. à1510-2, Shimosakuma, Awa Gun Kyonan Machi, Chiba. 0470 29 3425. botanicalpoolclub.com. Rooms from ¥73,000.

Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2024

PHOTOS: DUSIT THANI KYOTO, HOSHINO RESORTS

One of Thailand’s most prestigious luxury hotel brands, Dusit Thani’s first foray into Japan brings a refreshing new experience to Kyoto’s hotel scene. The facade of the stately four-storey building is reminiscent of a traditional Kyoto machiya (townhouse), but its interior is a harmony of Japanese and Thai aesthetics: curved wooden decor inspired by the magnificent chedi (Buddhist stupa) of Ayutthaya features alongside elegant ikebana floral arrangements and a small but distinctive rock garden that’s emblematic of Kyoto. But what Dusit Thani Kyoto has done so surprisingly well is that the hotel has reimagined the stylings of a tropical resort for a city hotel. Alongside the 147 gorgeous and spacious rooms – each complete with a sitting area perfect for enjoying organic tea from the hotel’s plantation in Kyoto, double vanity sinks, rain shower and bathtub – there’s a spa offering Thai massages, a gym and indoor

TRUNK

Travel & Hotels

TRUNK HOTEL YOYOGI PARK, TOKYO Most hotels in Tokyo don’t have a pool, let alone an infinity one overlooking a lush, green park. Which is just one reason why the new Trunk Hotel Yoyogi Park in Tomigaya is such a gem. Set in a gorgeous building designed by architect Keiji Ashizawa and with Copenhagen-based Norm Architects collaborating on the interiors, the boutique hotel perfectly marries mod Scandinavian design with the clean, soothing aesthetics of Japan. There are only 25 rooms and

OMO3 ASAKUSA BY HOSHINO RESORTS, TOKYO

OMO hotel is decked out with picture windows overlooking the city’s most beloved landmarks. Some of the rooms, contemporary in design but with touches of Japanese Edo aesthetics, look out to Tokyo Skytree. But nothing beats what you see from the hotel’s OMO Base, the lounge on the 13th floor, which offers an eye-popping, unobstructed view of the iconic Sensoji Temple. Plus, for your convenience, the hotel has a 24-hour

Operated by the luxurious Hoshino Resorts, OMO specialises in mid-scale city properties designed to connect tourists directly with local experiences. The new OMO3 Asakusa does that with just its views alone. Capitalising on its prime location in the heart of Asakusa, one of Tokyo’s most enchanting districts, this shiny new

suites, each fitted with a floor-to-ceiling window for an airy vibe and all the mod cons you could want for a relaxing vacation. Some rooms even come with a balcony – another rare feature among Tokyo city hotels – overlooking the hotel’s namesake Yoyogi Park. The all-day restaurant on the ground floor, Pizzeria e Trattoria L’Ombelico, serves hearty Italian fare from wood ovenfired pizza to classic regional dishes of Italy. It’s overseen by Yu Inoue, owner-chef of L’Arte, one of Tokyo’s more renowned pizzerias, and is open to all. The Trunk Pool Club lounge on the rooftop, however, is reserved for guests. Here you can feast on oysters and cocktails by the firepit, dip in the heated infinity pool overlooking Yoyogi Park, and enjoy a spot of hydrotherapy in the outdoor jacuzzi. It’s such a decadent life up here that you may not want to leave the hotel for the city. à1-15-2 Tomigaya, Shibuya, Tokyo. 03 5454 3210. yoyogipark.trunk-hotel.com. Rooms from ¥60,000.

self-service Food & Drink Station carrying Japanese snacks, baked goods, craft beer and more. Of course, if you prefer to take to the streets, OMO3 Asakusa can help with that as well. The huge mural maps on the first and thirteenth floors feature a list of recommended attractions within the neighbourhood as well as across Tokyo. à1-15-5 Hanakawado, Taito, Tokyo. 050 3134 8095. tinyurl.com/TOTomo3. Rooms from ¥22,000.

restaurant from Sapporo, Tempura Araki, has an outpost here, along with a steak and seafood eatery run by Singapore’s acclaimed Luke’s Oyster Bar & Chop House. Meli Melo – Yuki No Koe serves modern French and Italian cuisine reimagined with seasonal Hokkaido produce, and is overseen by Hironori Sato, who runs a Michelin-starred restaurant in Sapporo. There’s even an Afuri ramen restaurant here, plus a Park90 wine bar. As you can see, aside from snow sports, there really is no reason to leave the hotel. à6-9-1jo 2-chome, Niseko Hirafu, Kutan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido. 01 3655 5031. setsuniseko.com. Rooms from ¥33,100 in summer, ¥42,300 in winter.

SETSU NISEKO

KISA TOYOSHIMA

SETSU NISEKO, HOKKAIDO One of the world’s best ski destinations, Niseko has welcomed several new hotels in recent years, but Setsu Niseko has to be one of the most sumptuous. Located in Grand Hirafu, the largest ski resort in Niseko boasting 48 kilometres of runs, Setsu Niseko is beautifully designed, not least because of the floor-to-ceiling windows framing views of the magical snowscape outside. The hotel is also peppered with contemporary art, both in public spaces as well as in its 190 rooms and suites. The lobby, in particular, features a stunning deer mount covered in glass spheres by Japanese artist Kohei Nawa, as well as evocative calligraphy art by Yoko Arano. But perhaps the most alluring feature of Setsu Niseko is how it has mastered the après-ski lifestyle. For one, it has the largest wellness facility in the area. There’s an indoor and outdoor communal onsen complete with a cold dipping pool and sauna, four private onsen overlooking Zen rock gardens, a spa, a gym, and a yoga and pilates studio. The dining options within the hotel are just as varied. The two-Michelin-starred

January-March, 2024 Time Out Tokyo

Save the Date Best of the fests Plan your Japan travels around these spectacular traditional festivals. By Kaila Imada

Gion Matsuri, Kyoto

The annual festival of Yasaka Shrine has a history going back about 1,100 years. It’s considered one of the three most prestigious festivals in Japan, along with Tokyo’s Kanda Matsuri and Osaka’s Tenjin Matsuri (see below). The festivities span the entire month of July but the highlight is the July 17 procession of 33 large floats known as yamahoko, which are pushed down the streets of Kyoto. All but ten of the floats are designated Important Tangible Cultural Properties. The large main procession is followed by a smaller one on a later date. àJul 1-31

Tenjin Matsuri, Osaka

Sapporo Snow Festival, Hokkaido

The best-known winter festival in Japan takes place up north in Sapporo, the capital of Hokkaido, and features spectacular snow

Chichibu Yomatsuri, Saitama

Otherwise known as the Chichibu Night Festival, this annual gathering at Saitama’s Chichibu Shrine has been celebrated for over 350 years. It’s on Unesco’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage, and the highlight is the massive floats with their stunningly ornate designs. Time Out Tokyo January-March, 2024

The evening procession sees a series of large and elaborate floats moving down the streets, accompanied by lively music courtesy of flutes and taiko drums. The areas around the procession can get really crowded, but it is worth braving the crowds – particularly on the final day of the festival, which boasts amazing fireworks. àDec 2-3

and ice sculptures around the city’s Odori Park plus a few other locations. Aside from the larger-thanlife snowy showpieces, this annual matsuri (Japanese for ‘festival’) also features over 100 smaller sculptures as well as concert performances. Sapporo’s entertainment district, Sukino, also exhibits 50-odd ice sculptures whereas Tsudome, the city’s community centre, offers interactive snow slides, rafting and other family-friendly activities. àFeb 4-11

Aomori Nebuta Festival, Aomori

This summertime fire festival sees around 20 massive lantern floats (known as nebuta) parade down the streets of Aomori city in northern Honshu. These colourful floats are inspired by traditional kabuki or mythical Japanese stories and are lit up during the evening festivities. Nebuta dancers accompany the parade, along with performers playing instruments such as flutes and drums. A staggering number of visitors head up to Aomori for this annual celebration, with the city hosting approximately 2.5 million people. àAug 2-7

CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: KYONNTRA/ISTOCK, JOSHUA HAWLEY/DREAMSTIME, © OSAKA CONVENTION & TOURISM BUREAU, ALEXANDER FARRELL/ISTOCK, MU_MU_/ISTOCK

One of Osaka’s most spectacular festivals, Tenjin Matsuri is tied to the city’s Tenmangu Shrine and honours the deity Sugawara no Michizane, the god of scholarship and learning. The first day of the festival sees rituals performed on the shrine grounds, while the second day comprises two processions – one on land and one on water. The former has people parading through the streets in colourful costumes. Two mikoshi (portable shrines) are also brought through the streets to the Okawa River. Then, in the evening, the shrines are loaded onto boats and the procession moves onto the water, with special performance boats and fireworks displays. àJul 24-25

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石野卓球の地獄温泉 2023 神聖かまってちゃん