Issue 10: Great Tokyo Walks by Time Out Tokyo

INSIDE! Take to the terraces Where to dine in the open air Sneaker up Tokyo’s top trainer shops The real-deal ryokan Stay in a traditional Japanese inn APR - JUN 2016 NO.10 TIMEOUT.COM/TOKYO

Takashi Murakami kicks off our guide to exploring the world’s safest city on foot

FREE

In this issue

www.timeout.com/tokyo

April – June 2016

Hello Tokyo… Chuck your phone in the bag (or the bin if you’re feeling radical) and flip over to our city walks guide for a stroll around Tokyo’s most exciting neighbourhoods. We’ve lined up all the best sights and bites on the way and even included a small map so you don’t steer off course. We wouldn’t want you to get lost looking for the best ramen joint only to end up in some lonely backstreet where you’re offered an actual joint. So go grab your sneakers (or check out page 46 to find a new pair of kicks) and hit the streets.

Great Tokyo walks Starring Takashi Murakami, p20

Inside 06 12 15 20 40 46 50

Tokyo Update City news, city views Tokyo Diary Essential events Courtesy calls How to own a dog in Tokyo Great Tokyo walks Explore the world’s safest city on foot Eating & Drinking Shopping & Style Art & Culture

54 Music 58 Nightlife 61 Film 62 LGBT 63 Sport 64 Travel & Hotels 68 Getting Around 73 Zooming in and out on Japanese culture 74 You know you’re in Tokyo when…

Cover Art direction: Steve Nakamura Guest photo director: Takashi Murakami Photography: Shin Suzuki Styling: Kazuki Yunoki Hair and make-up: Asuka Fujio (Otie) Clothing: CHRISTIAN DADA Time Out Tokyo Inc. 5-9-9-101 Hiroo, Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0012 +81 (0)3 5792 5721 www.timeout.com/tokyo Advertising and general enquiries: info@timeout.jp

TAKASHI MURAKAMI: SHIN SUZUKI, UDON: YASUHISA SHIMBO, RYOKAN: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Tokyo

The best udon Slurp noodles on the cheap, p40

The best sneakers Trendy and oh so comfy, p46

The best boat parties Skytree views included, p58

The best ryokan Bed down on a futon, p64

JOIN THE CONVERSATION ON FACEBOOK, TWITTER AND THE TOKYOITE BLOG

Editors Yukako Izumi izumi@timeout.jp Annemarie Luck annemarieluck@timeout.jp Digital Content Editor Ili Saarinen ilisaarinen@timeout.jp

facebook.com/TimeOutTokyo Editorial Assistants Mayumi Koyama Kosuke Shimizu Designers Yuki Masuko Chikako Fukui Staff Writers Yasuhisa Shimbo

Kisa Toyoshima Kunihiro Miki Joyce Lam Mari Hiratsuka Shiori Kotaki Jun Harada Alexander Shapiro Yusuf Huysal

Youka Nagase Satomi Saruwatari Staff Photographer Keisuke Tanigawa Administration Momo Ando Sales Assistant Takahiro Takeuchi

@TimeOutTokyo Distribution Takaki Matsuda Content Director Commercial & Marketing Akiko Toya President/Publisher Hiroyuki Fushitani Chairman Hiroshi Hasegawa

timeout.com/tokyo/blog

Time Out Digital 4th Floor, 125 Shaftesbury Avenue, London,WC2H 8AD www.timeout.com +44 (0)207 813 3000

International Managing Director David Woodley President, TO Group Noel Penzer Founder Tony Elliott

Download the Time Out app for free! After revamping our website into the beast that it now is, we opted for a similar treatment with our mobile app and Tokyo is now proudly part of the global Time Out – Discover Your City app. Like our magazine and website – and indeed the best things in life – our slick new app is free too. Our entire content can now fit into your pocket, with easy-to-use search functions for when you’re on the move. Get the Time Out – Discover Your City app from the App Store for iPhone or the Play Store for Android. www.timeout.com/tokyo

Time Out Tokyo

@TimeOutTokyo

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For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 5

Tokyo update

CITY FAQ

Should we axe the manji from tourist maps?

WHAT YOU SAID

Here’s a summary of tweets about the manji furore…

‘Political correctness is killing cultures.’ ‘I can see why, but all the same it’s a bit sad.’ ‘If you don’t know the difference between a manji and a swastika, then maybe visiting Japan isn’t for you anyway.’

s part of an attempt to be more foreigner-friendly in the run up to the 2020 Olympics, the Geospatial Information Authority of Japan has announced plans to change pictograms on maps, including the current 〒 for post offices, H for hotels, X for police stations and the manji (卍), which represents

temples. The first three haven’t raised any objections, but changing the manji symbol for temples – which is an ancient Sanskrit symbol denoting well-being – has sparked some outrage on social media. The reason for the proposed change is fairly obvious: after its misappropriation by the Nazis, who reversed and tilted it

to create their swastika, the manji has created some confusion amongst Westerners who might see it on temples and maps and not understand its origins in Japanese Buddhism. Though the change, hitherto unconfirmed, would only be made on tourist maps, most people seem to be saying nay rather than yay.

For full city listings, go to www.timeout.com/tokyo

TOKYO LOVES…

‘Wtf?! Enough of this cultural capitulation.’ ‘Late but good to know it will be replaced.’ ‘Japan shouldn’t have to give up tradition. The Nazis appropriated the swastika, it was never theirs to begin with.’ ‘Thus ending the FAQ of “what’s that swastika on the map mean?”’

Mahoutokoro J.K. Rowling has released details of four new wizarding schools, including in… drumroll... Japan. The somewhat simply named Mahoutokoro (literally ‘Place of Magic’) is said to be on the island Minami Iwo Jima, and students get to ride to school on the back of giant storm petrels. Now that’ll beat the Chuo line any day. tinyurl.com/TOTmahoutokoro

Bean to bar choc We’re loving all the new ‘healthy’ chocolate cafés opening up as the ‘bean to bar’ trend takes hold. Dandelion Chocolate is the latest and offers workshops where you can learn to make these tasty delights yourself. This is your shot at being Willy Wonka for a day. tinyurl.com/TOTdandelion

6 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Play Tokyo Planning a visit or move to Tokyo but too lazy to read lengthy guides and articles? Do not despair. Play Tokyo is here with short vids about the basics of life in Tokyo, including operating the omnipresent vending machines and preparing natto for breakfast. tinyurl.com/TOTplaytokyo

‘Japan should not drop the Sanskrit symbol just because of some bigoted tourist who thinks it’s the Nazi Swastika.’

APP UP YOUR STYLE Help for the hapless shopaholic

WEAR Best for Discovering new outfits and buying the pieces you like in-app. How does it work? Scroll through over three million photos of young, fashionable trendsetters around the world who rock current styles. If you see something you like, you can buy it on the spot (if it isn’t already sold out that is)! You can also follow fashionistas and save your favourite outfits in the app to create your own scrapbook. Get it Free from the App store and Google Play.

Where in Tokyo is this? Every issue we’ll show you a picture of a Tokyo location that you may or may not recognise. We’ll reveal where this photo was taken in our Photo of the Day series at www.timeout.com/tokyo. This photo’s clue: Architect Tadao Ando plays with light and concrete to create this magnificent space in Roppongi, which is dedicated to major exhibitions and workshops on design.

What’s on our bookshelf MANJI: ISTOCK, MAHOUTOKORO: COURTESY OF J.K. ROWLING/POTTERMORE LTD, BEAN TO BAR: KEISUKE TANIGAWA, WHERE IN TOKYO IS THIS?: JOYCE LAM

Two new launches for your literature radar

Tokyo Totem

This ‘subjective guide to Tokyo’ is the result of a collaboration between international and Japanese authors and makers from various creative disciplines. Their fascination with cities – in particular Tokyo’s urban culture – brought them together to create this collection of essays, maps, photography collages, poems, manga, illustrations and observations. It may not be the sort of guide that helps you to find places to see, or places to eat or drink, but it will help you to read and see the city differently. www. tokyototem.jp

Up From the Sea

After the Tohoku Earthquake and Tsunami hit Japan in 2011, Tokyo-based American author Leza Lowitz was determined to help those affected. She got involved in several rebuilding projects, but kept wondering how she could do more. Her answer came in the form of a novel, ‘Up From the Sea’, which she wrote after meeting one little boy who had lost his mother. ‘The lead character in my novel, Kai, was inspired by him. And the book in general is based on real events and people I’ve met,’ she says. Although the novel falls into the Young Adult category, it’s written in verse, making it a poetic journey that will appeal to readers of any age. www.lezalowitz.com.

MINNE Best for Finding one-of-akind, handmade goods. How does it work? From furniture and accessories to clothing and kitchenware, you can find unique pieces from all over Japan on this app. With over two million items to choose from, you’ll feel like you’re browsing an endless bazaar of artisanal craftsmanship in the palm of your hands. You can both buy and sell in this virtual marketplace of all things kawaii. Get it Free from the App store and Google Play. GILT Best for Sale addicts who can’t resist a good discount on brands. How does it work? There’s a sale every day at 9pm, when designer brands and services are offered at up to a 70 percent discount for a limited time only (usually 78 hours). You can find something new for women, men, kids and the home, as well as luxurious experiences in the city. Be warned that popular brands get sold out in the first hour! Get it Free from the App store and Google Play.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 7

Eat art

From April 15, you can taste the imaginative sweets of celebrated Singaporean pastry chef Janice Wong. She’s opening up her first store outside her home country inside Newoman, the new (oddly named) mall in Shinjuku. Wong’s contemporary art-like desserts, such as bamboo shoot-shaped plum pastries and popcorn-flavoured confectionaries, are as pleasing on the eyes as they are on the palate. tinyurl.com/TOTjanice-wong

Meet the cheese whisperer

Local legends #10

he preservation of endangered species is always a pressing issue in the world, not least in the streets of Shibuya. Ganguro gals, immediately noticeable by their dark tan and contrasting make-up, used to reign supreme back in the mid-90s around Shibuya and Ikebukuro. These days, however, the fashion trend has faded into obscurity. So why does this particular group of gals still go ganguro? ‘What each person finds pretty is different. In our case, it was the gal style,’ says Pomitan, a 25-year-old store manager. As Erimokkori, 23, tells us, a nonchalant attitude towards what other people think is an essential part of what makes a true ‘gal’: ‘We all have a right to enjoy our own lives, so we do what we want to do.’ Naturally, there was a time when the rebellious

ganguro ethos was at loggerheads with Japanese etiquette. Acknowledging this past, Ayuyun, 25, thinks that ‘today’s gals have a different mindset to the gals in the past’, being more attentive to things like using keigo (honorifics) when addressing their elders. This is often a cause for surprise. In fact, when Ayuyun gave up her seat to a senior citizen on the train one day, the carriage erupted with applause: ‘That was so funny, I did something normal but I ended up moving people!’ Despite the difficulties of being ‘a minority in a conservative nation’, the gals are adamant in their pursuit of spreading the word – and not just in Japan. With their ganguro gal group Black Diamond, they now attend international expos to promote Japanese culture overseas: ‘Like washoku, we will export gal culture, too!’

8 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Japan lacks in its variety of cheese, but the newly opened Cheese no Koe (The Cheese’s Voice) is here to change that. At this store in the Kiyosumi neighbourhood of Tokyo, you can find over 200 different kinds of cheese from Hokkaido – everything from a smooth classic French Brie to a Japanese misomarinated Camembert. Better yet, you’ll get to meet the ‘cheese whisperer’, Toru Imano, the shop’s resident cheese concierge. tinyurl. com/TOTcheese

GALS AND CHEESE WHISPERER: KISA TOYOSHIMA, JANICE WONG DESSERT: MARI HIRATSUKA

The ganguro gals

SECRET CITY Attractions off the beaten track

Forget selfie sticks… Rather get your holiday snaps taken by a pro with Travelshoot, a boutique travel photography company that connects travellers with local photographers in popular destinations around the world. Tokyo has just been added to their lineup, giving you the chance to turn your touristy photos into professional, atmospheric shots of you and your partner/friends/family. Perfect for a nostalgic coffee-table album. Three packages available, from ¥32,700. tinyurl.com/TOTtravelshoot

Need a place to stay in Japan? These Airbnb rentals will make you want to stay forever We won’t lie, sometimes we like to browse Airbnb just to see what kinds of apartments are out there. And lately, thanks to an influx of tourists (and shortage of hotels), Japan has been stepping up its apartment rental game, giving us plenty of beautiful spaces to ogle. Here are some of our favourites:

TRAVELSHOOT: HEATH SMITH, ONI PARK AND HIMALAYAN CEDAR: JOYCE LAM, ANATA NO WAREHOUSE: SAKI FUJISAWA

TOKYO

The Japanese minimalist

The one that makes you feel like you’re in a Nintendo game

CHIBA

TOKYO

KYOTO

The traditional house surrounded by mother nature

The Miyazaki-esque ryokan

The one with a tea room

YAMANASHI

The one on a World Heritage Site, near Mt Fuji

For the full listings and more Airbnb spots, visit tinyurl.com/TOTairbnb

Oni Park Featured in dramas, anime and TV commercials, this park in Tachikawa houses a peculiar looking slide: a sharptoothed and horned devil from whose shoulders you can slide down. Legend has it that this spot marked the ‘omotekimon’ (demon gate) of the old city ward office, which is the northeastern direction where demons are believed to enter and exit. When the office relocated, the eerie spot was given a slightly more amusing and friendly twist. Perfect to end the day after cherry blossom viewing at nearby Showa Memorial Park. Nishiki No. 2 Park, 1-5-13 Nishikicho, Tachikawa (Tachikawa Station). Himalayan Cedar in Yanaka Are street corners boring? Not if a 20m-tall, 90-yearold Himalayan cedar sprouts out of a row of Showa wooden houses. Stroll through the retro neighbourhood, passing by little vintage shops and temples before reaching this wondrous triangular corner (which might soon be bulldozed for urban development). Make sure to visit Mikado bakery that sits under the tree and buy a tree-shaped cookie.1-6-15 Yanaka, Taito (Nezu Station). Anata no Warehouse Tired of typical amusement parks? For only ¥500, you can take a little adventure down to Anata no Warehouse (‘Your Warehouse’) in Kawasaki. The haunted-looking arcade is decorated with neon lights, rusting walls and iron doors, built to look like the back alleys of Kowloon Walled City, Hong Kong’s legendary slum. Over 18s only. 3-7 Nisshincho, Kawasaki, Kanagawa (Kawasaki Station). www.warehousenet.jp

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I,TOKYO Jason David Danielson (aka Atsugiri Jason) Comedian and IT corporate officer, 29

You worked as an engineer and researcher in Tokyo for one year in 2005. What brought you back here in 2011? When I came in 2005 I found Japan very different and refreshing from what I was used to in the States. Sometimes a massive change in environment in itself is enough to change one’s perspective. Also the people were very nice, polite and welcoming and the service was great. Few people would think of becoming a comedian in a foreign country, speaking a different language. What inspired you to do this? It wasn’t that I wanted to specifically be a comedian in a foreign country. I wanted to be a comedian and I happened to be in a foreign country. If you find something you want to do, don’t wait for the perfect circumstances to come together, just give it a shot wherever you are and see how it goes from there. How did you become fluent enough in Japanese to be able to be a comedian here? I watched a lot of Japanese TV. A LOT. Mostly comedy shows and dramas but, maybe more importantly, I watched the same things over and over again. At

first I couldn’t understand much, but I slowly understood more until I was able to grasp most things the first time around. The point is to do something you enjoy a little bit each day and to continue for a long time. The scale for language mastery is tens of years, not a few weeks. But that doesn’t mean you can’t start using your new language skills even before they are perfect. You also work for an IT company. Isn’t it hard to manage two careers? It’s all about time management. For example, while waiting for filming to start on a comedy gig, I can respond to work emails, and when on an international flight for the IT job, I can work on my skits or books. When did you first feel like a Tokyoite? Well, technically I live in Atsugi, Kanagawa so I feel more like an Atsugi-ite than a Tokyoite. That said, I felt adjusted to Tokyo and Japan once I mastered the train system. I must admit I still have a little trouble around the West Exit of Shinjuku Station – that place is a maze! Your favourite place in Japan? The 7km hiking trail between Mt Haku and Nanasawa Forest Park in Atsugi. The entire trail is atop a mountain range so the view is spectacular, while being surrounded by dense greenery. I sometimes jog along here. You ran Tokyo Marathon 2016 – how was that? It was a great experience. I saw lots of traditional sights all in one day and the streets were lined with local folks performing many different Japanese dances and playing musical instruments. Where would you take visitors to Tokyo? To the Comic Market expo. There are loads of Japanese people and pop cultures crammed into a small area. This might be one of most efficient ways to show a wide variety of ‘Japaneseness’ in a short period of time. I’d end the day with a contrasting traditional event, such as a tea ceremony or Kabuki play. You have a kind of tagline in your comedy shows: ‘Why, Japanese people!’ What’s been making you utter this line lately? Yesterday, I noticed an emergency button in the bathroom, so you can call for help in case you fall down and can’t get up on your own. This is very nice, but the button is about two metres above the ground, so if you do fall, you would not be able to reach it. There is a cord hanging down from the button, that you can pull, however the cord is only about 10cm long. WHY, JAPANESE PEOPLE!?

10 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

SAKURA SNAPSHOT Everything you ever wanted to know about Japan’s beloved cherry blossoms

600

The number of different species of cherry blossom trees in Japan.

1912 ¥100

The year that Japan gave the US a gift of over 3,000 cherry blossom trees to signify the growing bond between the two countries.

The coin that features an image of a cherry blossom.

100

The number of petals on each flower of the Kikuzakura species.

The percentage of people in Japan who take part in hanami.

2,000

¥100 COIN: ISTOCK, ALL OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS: PIXTA

The age of the oldest sakura tree in Japan. It’s called Yamataka Jindai Zakura and you’ll find it on the grounds of Jissoji Temple in Yamanashi Prefecture. It’s been designated a Natural Monument and its root circumference is reportedly 13.5m. According to legend, it was planted by Yamato Takeru no Mikoto, the 12th emperor of Japan.

1,064 The number of hanami (sakura viewing) spots in Japan.

7-10 days ¥8,928

The lifespan of a cherry blossom. This is of course part of their appeal, because if, say, you’re on a work deadline for two weeks straight, you could very well miss them entirely. It’s also why sakura have come to hold a deeper meaning, symbolising the transience of life.

The average amount each Tokyoite spends on hanami-related goods.

Sapporo May 6

FOLLOW THE SAKURA TRAIL

Hakodate

May 3

Aomori Apr 27

Some people are so dedicated to hanami that they travel from one end of Japan to the other in the hope of catching the blooms, which open at different times through April and May. Here is the forecast for 2016…

Kanazawa Apr 7

Kakunodate

Apr 26

Sendai Apr 12

Fukushima

Apr 8

Fukuoka Apr 1

Kyoto

Hiroshima

Matsuyama Apr 3

Apr 11

Osaka Apr 2

Kumamoto

Nagano

Apr 2

Apr 4

Nagoya Nara Apr 2

Apr 1

Tokyo Mar 28

Dates as listed by the Japan Weather Association.

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What’s on in town April-June 2016 Make the most of the city with our editors’ picks of the best things to do over the next three months April THINGS TO DO FLOWER GARDEN 2016 Yokohama’s Red Brick Warehouse gets colourful for spring with over 80 varieties of flowers to be arranged in five separate squares on the facility’s inner plaza. A sight to behold even during the day, the Easter-themed fields are even more impressive after nightfall, when projection-mapping displays take place. Apr 2-24 Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse, 1-1 Shinkou, Naka, Yokohama. tinyurl.com/ TOTflower2016. Free.

FILM BAKUON FILM FESTIVAL: RYUICHI SAKAMOTO SELECTION Tokyo’s loudest film festival lost its home with the much-lamented 2014 closing of Kichijoji’s Baus Theater, but the powers behind Bakuon have turned this brilliant celebration of noisy movies into

a touring event. This April stop at Ebisu’s Garden Cinema sees a programme designed by Ryuichi Sakamoto – prepare to catch films like ‘Merry Christmas’, ‘Mr. Lawrence’ and ‘Alien’. April 2-10 Yebisu Garden Cinema, 4-20-2 Ebisu, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTbakuon. ¥1,500.

THINGS TO DO JINDAI CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL The Jindai Botanical Gardens hosts around 770 cherry trees, all of which burst into bloom towards the end of March. See the spectacular colours and welcome spring during this festival, which features free guided tours of the park, displays of Camellia flowers, special concerts and much more. Until Apr 10 Jindai Botanical Gardens, 5-31-10 Jindaiji-Motomachi, Chofu. tinyurl.com/TOTjindaicherry. Free. THINGS TO DO TOKYO ART & ANTIQUES 2016 Around 80 galleries, art shops and other artsy venues in the Kyobashi-

12 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Nihonbashi area, well known for its impressive concentration of exhibition spaces and art-connected businesses, join forces again for this three-day celebration that’s becoming something of a staple on the spring calendar. Just strolling the streets in search of new artistic discoveries and chatting with the artists and gallery staff is highly recommended, while Japanese speakers may want to attend one of the many talks and other events taking place. Apr 14-16 Kyobashi and Nihonbashi, Chuo. tinyurl.com/TOTartantique. Free. THINGS TO DO FUJI SHIBAZAKURA FESTIVAL Great views of majestic Mount Fuji and seemingly endless fields of shibazakura (‘pink moss’) – it’s no wonder that this annual spring festival out at Lake Motosu in Yamanashi attracts hordes of Tokyoites over Golden Week. In addition to strolling around the immense flowery carpet, you can buy your own shibazakura pot to take home, or taste a wide range of local delicacies. The food stall selection has been further expanded this year to include festival grub from all over the region. Apr 16-May 29 212 Motosu, Fuji Kawaguchiko-machi, Minamitsurugun, Yamanashi. tinyurl.com/ TOTshibazakura. Adults ¥600, children under 12 ¥250.

FILM SERGEI PRAJANOV PROGRAMME The enfant terrible of Soviet cinema, Armenian director Sergei Parajanov (1924-1990) only earned international recognition for his work in the late ’80s, with some of his films since accorded a sort of cult status for their rich symbolism, surreal narratives and otherworldly colour schemes. K’s Cinema in Shinjuku now shows six of Parajanov’s finest creations, including ‘Shadows of Forgotten Ancestors’ (1965) and the meditative ‘The Color of Pomegranates’ (1969). Apr 16-29 3F K’s Cinema, 3-35-13 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. tinyurl.com/ TOTparajanov. Adults ¥1,500, students ¥1,300, seniors ¥1,000. THINGS TO DO SPRING BREAD FESTIVAL A big hit at Zoshigaya’s Kishimojin last year, this pastry party returns in April and sees bakeries from all over town gather in front of the shrine grounds to show off their baked goodies. There’s also a ‘toast club’ area where you can heat up slices of your newly bought bread and dig in right then and there, as well as stalls selling a range of baking-related (and unrelated) paraphernalia. Note that the market will be moved to May 22 in case of rain. April 17 Kishimojindo, 3-15-20 Zoshigaya, Toshima. tinyurl.com/ TOTbreadfestival. Free. FILM ZUSHI BEACH FILM FESTIVAL How about enjoying a quality indie flick while the last rays of the sun are still visible on the horizon? Head down south for 11 days of movies on the beach, complemented by gigs, talks, workshops and spontaneous parties. Apr 28-May 8 Zushi Beach, 2-9-33 Shinjuku, Zushi, Kanagawa. tinyurl. com/TOTzushi-beach-film. Adults

'BAKUON FILM FESTIVAL': MERRY CHRISTMAS, MR. LAWRENCE (1983) © OSHIMA NAGISA PRODUCTION

Tokyo Diary

May 7-8 Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTrainbow-pride-2016. Free.

¥1,500, Zushi residents ¥500, highschool students and younger free.

MUSIC ANDREW WEATHERALL Now in his fifties, veteran DJ and producer Andrew Weatherall has been spinning, mixing and touring for well over half his life, but shows no signs of slowing down. He’s just dropped his first solo album in over seven years, with ‘Convenanza’ drawing on Weatherall’s experience in organising the exclusive Convenanza Festival, held in the stunning surroundings of the medieval Carcassonne castle in southern France. April 30 Womb, 2-16 Maruyama-cho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTweatherall. Advance ¥3,000, door ¥3,500.

May THINGS TO DO CINCO DE MAYO FESTIVAL 2016 Held annually in the US to commemorate Mexico’s historic victory over France at the Battle of Puebla in 1862, the Cinco de Mayo

Festival will be heading to Tokyo again this year – and unusually enough, it’s arriving right on schedule. Moving from Yoyogi Park to Odaiba for 2016, the festival will again feature the familiar mariachi bands, rockabillies, tequila bars and Tex-Mex food stands, complemented by non-Mexican gourmet and music contributions from countries including Peru, Brazil, Chile and Cuba – none of which have the clout to put on festivals of their own, we presume. May 3-5 Odaiba-Aomi Event Zone J, Aomi, Koto. tinyurl.com/TOTcincomayo. Advance ¥1,000, door ¥1,500. THINGS TO DO SALSA STREET 2016 First held in 2015, this multinational celebration takes on Yoyogi Park again with food, drinks, music and merriment, plus all the salsa dancing you can possibly endure over a single weekend. Grab a spicy taco and wash it down with a beer or mojito before moving onto the vast selection of rum and tequila. Less alcoholically inclined visitors will appreciate the stalls selling handicrafts and other pretty accessories. May 7-8 Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTsalsastreet. Free. THINGS TO DO TOKYO RAINBOW PRIDE 2016 Tokyo Rainbow Pride is back to celebrate LGBT pride with a host of events, including a rip-roaring parade that last year saw thousands of people gather and take to the streets in fancy dress alongside floats. This year’s parade is scheduled for May 8, with a variety of booths opened in Yoyogi Park by LGBT-friendly companies and artists on both May 7 and 8. During the week leading up this to festival and parade, Rainbow Week is held to help raise awareness of LGBT through various events in Tokyo.

THINGS TO DO DESIGN FESTA VOL.43 Whether it’s painting, fashion, handicrafts, techno or avant-garde performance art that gets your juices flowing, you should be able to find it at this sprawling biannual art jamboree, held at Tokyo Big Sight every spring and autumn. The first Design Festa of 2016 sees some 10,000 artists descend on the conference centre, in an event that can be exhilarating and exhausting in equal measure. There are two-day tickets available, and trust us: you’ll need them if you actually want to see everything on offer. May 14-15 Tokyo Big Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake, Koto. tinyurl.com/ TOTdesignfesta43. Single day advance ¥800 (door ¥1,000), twoday advance ¥1,500 (door ¥1,800).

THINGS TO DO 92 AZUMA ODORI Shinbashi Enbujo’s most prominent show has been part of the programme here since the theatre first opened in 1925. Always happening around the time when spring gives way to early summer, it sees the venue transformed into an extra-large version of a traditional ryotei restaurant, with guests invited to munch on uber-fancy bento treats while being entertained by geisha. May 19-22 Shinbashi Enbujo, 6-18-2 Ginza, Chuo. tinyurl.com/TOT92azuma. From ¥2,500-¥9,000.

MUSIC NEW ORDER After a long hiatus, New Order has finally released their 9th album, ‘Music Complete’, which has climbed the charts here in Japan. Local fans have waited months to see the band’s energetic live performance, which will include original members Bernard Sumner, Stephen Morris and Gillian Gilbert alongside newer member Phil Cunningham. May 25 Shinkiba Studio Coast, 2-2-10 Shinkiba, Koto. 1F standing ¥10,000, 2F standing and reserved seats ¥14,000. tinyurl.com/TOTnew-order MUSIC ESPERANZA SPALDING PRESENTS: EMILY’S D+EVOLUTION Bassist and singer Esperanza Spalding heads back to Japan as Emily’s D+Evolution, her latest musical project, which received positive reviews at last year’s Tokyo Jazz Festival. She’s been working with record producer Tony Visconti, who also worked on David Bowie’s ‘Blackstar’ album, so you can look forward to a rock pop edge added to her sound. May 31 Zepp DiverCity Tokyo, 1-110 Aoi Koto. ¥7,000. tinyurl.com/ TOTesperanza

New Order

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Tokyo Diary

ANDREW WEATHERALL: JOHN BARRETT, NEW ORDER: NICK WILSON

THINGS TO DO KOHGEN IN NIHONBASHI Launched in 2011, this annual event always stages over 100 workshops related to traditional Japanese culture and religion, including a Noh theatre experience and classes for calligraphy and zazen meditation, plus performances ranging from electronic music to sutra recitation. The organisers are aiming to reach out especially to Tokyoites who don’t frequent shrines or temples, rolling out a programme that will also include talks, hands-on experiences and food events. Apr 29-May 5 Kanda Shrine, Nihonbashi Mitsui Hall and other venues in Nihonbashi. tinyurl.com/ TOTkohgen-nihonbashi

DANCE TAKATANI SHIRO (DUMB TYPE): ‘CHROMA’ Dumb Type by Takatani Shiro explores new possibilities in contemporary dance and performance art by way of images, lighting, graphic art, set design and other sophisticated examples of media art. The second piece, a stage work called Chroma, is an international collaborative project involving a variety of artists: dancers, musicians, computer programmers, image creators and more. May 21-22 New National Theatre Tokyo, 1-1-1 Hon-machi, Shibuya. A seats ¥5,400, B seats ¥3,240, Z seats ¥1,620. tinyurl.com/TOTdumb-type

Tokyo Diary It’s a moment to unwind and let your thoughts roam freely. Jun 19 Zojoji Temple, 4-7-35 ShibaKoen, Minato. candle-night.tokyo. Free.

IMAGE: BUNKYO WARD

June

Tokyo Diary

Candle Night at Zojoji Temple

MUSIC ITADAKI 2016 Shizuoka’s contribution to the summer music festival calendar is held in lush seaside surroundings on the Suruga Bay coast and attracts an eclectic lineup of domestic stars, some of whom are drawn specifically by the intimate Candle Time afterhours slots. This year, the biodieselpowered festival area will again be buzzing to the tunes of regulars like Goma and the Shibusashirazu Orchestra. Jun 4-5 Yoshida Park, Kawashiri, Yoshida-cho, Haibara-gun, Shizuoka. tinyurl.com/TOTitadaki16.

MUSIC TAICO CLUB ’16 Long one of Japan’s better dance festivals, this big-time outdoor bash will once again see a great many fans make the pilgrimage to the mountainside Kodama no Mori campsite in Nagano Prefecture. Taico Club is within relatively easy striking distance from Tokyo, albeit more convenient by car than public transport. As of February, lineup highlights include Venezuelan producer Arca, New Zealand’s Lord Echo, South African ‘shangaan electro’ pioneer Nozinja, Brooklynbased ambient composer Oneohtrix

14 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Point Never and reunited Osaka punk duo Afrirampo. Jun 4-5 Kodama no Mori, Nagano. Pre-sale tickets from ¥12,500, door ¥15,000 (subject to availability). tinyurl.com/TOTtaico16 THINGS TO DO CANDLE NIGHT AT ZOJOJI TEMPLE The motto for this event, which began back in 2003, is ‘turn off the lights and have a slow night’. As the lights go off at 8pm, the candles are lit to encourage not only relaxation but also awareness of our environment and meditations on world peace.

THINGS TO DO AJISAI MATSURI In Japan, the month of June is known for the rainy season (known as tsuyu) but it’s also the start of hydrangea season. Visit Hakusan Shrine to see 3,000 hydrangeas in bloom all the way to Hakusan Park. These flowers thrive even in the rain, making them a highlight of the wetter months. Be sure to visit at weekends as they run special events. Jun 11-19 Hakusan Shrine, 5-3126 Hakusan, Bunkyo. tinyurl.com/ TOTajisai. Free. For more events, go to timeout.com/ tokyo

Courtesy calls Etiquette made easy

No 10 How to own a dog in Tokyo Do avoid the pet shops’ exorbitant price tags (no really, you’re looking at around ¥500,000), plus other tips from wily poodle owner Richard Smart. Illustration Bunny Bissoux

aving been raised in a family that always kept dogs, not having a pet was one of the things I missed most about home when I moved to Japan. Then, last year, we got a rescue poodle. Baz had spent his first five months starved and deprived of light. A psycho? No, a poodle breeder. Here’s how we got Baz and what we learned: DO: TRY AND GET A RESCUE DOG If you have a breed you love, and many do, the pet store is probably for you. But if you are happy with any old pooch, rescues are great. They are more difficult to train, but it’s worth it. Getting a rescue dog can be tough, though. One network told us that their dogs were social and could not be left alone – my wife and I both had office jobs at the time. Eventually, we found Baz, a five-month-old, too-big-for-toy poodle who had been locked in the dark and starved by his breeder. He was on death row. As soon as we met him, he got a hug and has been happy ever since. DON’T: ER, LET THE DOG OFF THE LEASH Maybe it was naive of me to think that the pooch could go to the park and be let off his leash. Nope. Our local park goes as far as to discourage extender leashes. Nice one guys. Some sneak their dogs off the leash at night and dawn. We have chosen not to do that. So to make sure he gets proper exercise, we have to commute to a dog run – a piece of fenced-off concrete the size of a tennis court. DO: GET PET INSURANCE We did not. Baz got sick. It cost around half a million yen. Ouch. We would have saved hundreds of thousands of yen by paying the

¥2,000 or so a month to insure the mutt. DON’T: BE FOOLED BY ‘PETFRIENDLY’ HOUSING Read the apartment rental contract you sign carefully. We paid a month’s rent extra for dog rights. Once home, Baz had a problem sleeping alone at night. We were training him when the letter arrived: ‘You will have to leave if your dog does not stay quiet at night.’ We read the contract’s small print: ‘Animals must not make a noise.’ So now the dog sleeps in our room. DO: FIND PEOPLE TO CARE FOR YOUR DOG One holiday, we decided to try out

one of the legendary wacky Japan pet hotels as we could not find anyone to watch Baz. The hotel had appeared in numerous articles. It was not a hotel. It was a kennel. They charged us extra to walk him three times a day. Funnily enough, when we returned, his paws were soft. He had not been walked. DON’T: FALL ONTO THE PAMPERING PATH Dogs do not need clothes; that’s people. And they do not need weekly grooming at the salon. That’s nobody. Take your dog for a haircut every second month. It still costs around ¥8,000 a time. Standing still in a harness to be trimmed properly takes a toll on

dogs anyway. You aren’t being nice to your dog by doing this. DO: EXPECT TO MAKE NEW FRIENDS It’s weird. Other dog owners will speak to you unprompted. At the vet, people share stories. Japan is not a particularly open place, but with a dog, you’ll find yourself part of a new community. Including the neighbours, the ones that haven’t been speaking to you for years. And that’s nice. P’s First, an ethical store, has rescue dogs available nationwide: tinyurl. com/TOTpfirst For more on city life news and culture, see blogs.timeout.jp/en

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Promotional feature LOCAL INSIGHT

Tohoku travels

We embark on a fourday journey across eastern Japan to see how the earthquakeand tsunami-ravaged areas are regenerating five years after the 2011 disaster, and to give you a roundup of top things to do when visiting

ive years have passed since the triple disasters of 3.11, which devastated large swaths of the Tohoku coast and threw lives off balance all across eastern Japan. The road to recovery has been long and steep, but the disaster-affected region is on the mend, with travellers also returning to an area rich in natural beauty, history and tasty edibles. We recently headed up to the northeast for a week to see with our own eyes how Fukushima, Miyagi and Iwate prefectures are doing at present. In addition to the recovery process, we were eager to learn about all there is to do, see, experience and eat in Tohoku right now.

Tontei

DAY 1

Our journey kicks off in Aizu, a place of big history and big flavours Even before the train drops you at Aizuwakamatsu Station, you will have heard about the tonkatsu. It is the speciality dish of this historic town – a scenic zip north from Tokyo on the shinkansen, with a switch to a more leisurely ride at Koriyama. Duck into just about any restaurant in the city, and you’ll discover an expert take on the pankocrusted pork dish that will make you forget every shopping-mall version you’ve endured. We choose Tontei (1-11 Tenneijimachi, Aizuwakamatsu, Fukushima. 024 227 2191), where three crunchy slabs of outrageously juicy pork, drizzled in a sour and spicy sauce, rendered us speechless for the best part of half an hour.

Ouchijuku’s thatched houses date back to the Edo period The delights of Aizu go beyond the culinary (though those are many). Tourists flock here to soak themselves in mineral-rich hot springs, dive into the history of the samurai and walk through scenes frozen in time since the 1600s. The wildly popular 2013 historical TV drama Yae no Sakura (Yae’s Cherry Blossoms), filmed in the area and centred on a kind of local Joan of Arc figure, has given them even more reason to visit. The centrepiece of Aizuwakamatsu is Tsuruga Castle (1-1 Otemachi, Aizuwakamatsu, Fukushima. 024 227 4005. tsurugajo.com), built in 1384, demolished in 1874 and reconstructed 50 years ago. The main tower, a pile of very Instagrammable pagodas, functions as a lookout and museum. Winding your way up, you explore the history of the feudal lords who ruled Aizu and learn the fascinating story of the Byakkotai (white tiger force), a group of teenage samurai who committed suicide on a nearby hill during the Boshin War believing, wrongly, that the castle’s defences had been breached. If Tsuruga whets your appetite for history, you’re well-served in the region: Aizu Bukeyashiki (1 Innai, Ishiyama, Aizuwakamatsu, Fukushima. 0242 28 2525. bukeyashiki.com), a reconstruction of the residences of the

area’s former samurai, offers an immersive look at how the warriors lived, while Ouchijuku (Shimogomachi, Minami-Aizu-gun, Fukushima) is a postal village that features thatched houses not changed since the Edo period (1603-1868). Dating back to before Edo is the tradition of onsen bathing, and for the full back-in-time experience, you’ll want to book into an onsen resort for the night. Shosuke no Yado Takinoyu (108 Takinoyu Higashiyamamachi, Aizuwakamatsu, Fukushima. 0242 29 1000) sits 10 minutes from Aizuwakamatsu Station and features indoor and outdoor baths overlooking the spectacular Fushimi Falls. Stay in a traditional room, slip into your (supplied) traditional robe, and join the throngs of visitors wandering the hallways to and from the baths from early morning to late night. The inn is just a short taxi ride to Aizu Kyodoshoku Tsuruga (4-21 Higashi-Sakaemachi, Aizuwakamatsu, Fukushima. 0242 29 4829), an ultratraditional restaurant with a menu of dishes that might prove challenging for some – yes, that is horse sashimi – along with crowd-pleasers like a thick slab of barbecued tofu slathered with a sweet pork-mince paste. It will be one of the finest meals of your life – or, at least since your tonkatsu lunch.

DAY 2

Sea life and hula on the coast in Iwaki A piece of advice as you approach the futuristiclooking Aquamarine Fukushima: don’t be alarmed. Those guttural honks erupting from this aquarium – which sits encased in a glass cocoon on the coast in Iwaki – may sound like something from ‘Jurassic Park’, but their source is something much friendlier. They’re coming from a playful group of sea lions, and it’s lunchtime. There are three of the beasts on display (between 200kg and 300kg each) at Aquamarine Fukushima (50 Tatsumicho, Onahama, Iwaki, Fukushima. 0246 73 2525. www.marine.fks.ed.jp), along with a family of smaller seals and one fat little ribbon seal. To watch them all feed – the big ones down 5kg of fish a day – is a joy you could revel in for hours. The slippery grey guys seem to celebrate each morsel, diving deep into their pools to frolic and twirl in jubilation with hunk of fish they swallow. Then they come up and honk for more. You could watch them all day, but you probably shouldn’t. There is too much else to see here, including the museum’s centrepiece, a two-million-litre tank that simulates sea life among the colliding currents just off the coast of Fukushima, and a family area that includes a pond where kids can fish for salmon and mackerel – but only if they promise to eat and not waste their catches. Iwaki sits just south of the epicentre of the 2011 earthquake, and the effects of the tsunami were felt heavily at the aquarium. Power was cut off, generators failed, and many fish died – though not all. Larger fish and mammals, like the sea lions, were moved to other facilities

throughout the country after the disaster; elsewhere, creatures in the ‘evolution’ exhibit – fish from the deepest depths of the ocean, whose tanks sit alongside the fossils of their ancient ancestors – survived without any help for the four months that the aquarium was abandoned. Many other attractions also shuttered by the Aquamarine Fukushima quake and tsunami are now back open for business. From the peak of the Shioyasaki Lighthouse (33 Yadosaki, Tairausuiso, Iwaki, Fukushima) – a European-style shipguider that also survived air raids in the dying days of WWII – you can see miles up the coast, where diggers and pickers are reshaping beaches and erecting defiant concrete walls. When the earthquake shut down Iwaki’s famous Spa Resort Hawaiians – a theme park that combines hot springs, a water park and ‘authentic Polynesian dance shows’ – the resort’s hula dancers toured Japan raising money for Fukushima’s recovery. The resort reopened in late 2012. Like most areas in Tohoku, Iwaki offers you a traditional way to end the day – in one of the onsen resorts. In the Yumoto hot springs area, you can even visit a shrine to the hot, mineralrich waters found in the ground. The Furutakiya Inn (208 Sahako Jobanyumotomachi, Iwaki,

Fukushima. 024 643 2191), features indoor and outdoor baths and very traditional rooms – if you’re wondering where you’re supposed to sleep, you can find the mats you have to use to make your own bed in the cupboard. Keep on the traditional line with a nightcap at a ‘snack bar’, a kind of hush-hush dive bar (with hostesses) that some people operate from what appear to be their own apartments. The team at reception might play coy at first, but ask nicely enough, and they’ll show you to your new local.

IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

From Shioyasaki Lighthouse, you can see miles up the coast

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Matsushima is listed as one of Japan’s three most beautiful places

Zuiganji Temple

DAY 3

Sendai

Postcard-beauty by day, buzzy neon by night in one of Tohoku’s most gorgeous corners Japan has an official list of the ‘three most beautiful places’ in the country. It’s not something that’s up for debate – the list dates back to 1643 and, like the Seven Wonders of the World, is accepted as a kind of fact. Spend some time in Matsushima, one of said three places, and you’ll find little reason to argue with the designation. Off the coast of this tiny town in Miyagi Prefecture, some 260 tiny, pine-covered limestone islands dot a cove of almost impossibly still waters. From the shore, it looks like something Hokusai might have dreamt up, with hazy sunlight and ocean blues; on the back of a ferry, weaving between the islands and the occasional oyster farm, you’ll feel lost in the picture, and possibly in time (book a ride at www. marubun-kisen.com/english). The islands have protected Matsushima in different ways throughout the years: Samurai once stationed themselves here to ward off intruders from the sea, and, in March 2011, the islands acted as a kind of buffer against the tsunami that devastated so many nearby towns. Matsushima wasn’t spared – as images in the ferry terminal from the time attest – but the town mostly remained defiantly, beautifully in tact. On land, the main attraction is Zuiganji Temple (91 Matsushimachonai, Miyagi-gun, Matsushima-machi, Miyagi. 022 354 2023. www.zuiganji.or.jp), built in 828 and rebuilt by feudal lord Date Masamune in the early 1600s. Approaching the temple, you can see where the tsunami and quake took their toll: a small forest of cedar trees that once framed a grand walkway to the temple is now being replanted

Ganso Robata

after seawater ruined the soil; the temple’s main building is under extensive construction. A kitchen building, never before open to the public, has been opened in its stead, and holds some of the temple’s most important artefacts and icons. You’ll find more artefacts at the on-site Zuiganji art museum, where you can watch the main building’s mammoth gate being lovingly restored. If a day revelling peacefully in the ancient has you hankering for something more modern, Sendai awaits less than an hour away. The largest city in Tohoku brims with the delights of a modern mega-city: bright lights, rowdy sake bars, multiple cat cafés, pachinko arcades and

some excellent people-watching – yes, that was a woman dressed as a Lloyd Webber-style feline passing you at the crossing. You’ll want to get views of the city and beyond from the 31st floor of the AER Building (1-3-1 Chuo, Aoba Ward, Sendai, Miyagi), from which you can see the 100m Goddess of Kannon statue in the foothills; and shop on the buzzy, enclosed Cli’s Road, which turns the city into a kind of giant mall. But most of all you will want to seek out Ganso Robata (2-10-8 Kokubuncho, Aoba Ward, Sendai, Miyagi. 022 266 0897), a tiny, timewarping restaurant that first opened in 1950, and moved to its current location 25 years ago. Here, you sit at a bar encircling your friendly hostess as she warms sake on the fire and then hands it to you on the end of an oar. Next, you’re presented with a spread of exotic eats: a whole barbecued squid, sliced up and splayed out in front of you like a delicious accordion; grilled uni (sea urchin), still in its spiky shell; and, if you’re brave (and not ethically opposed), slivers of raw whale bacon. The check is calculated on a wooden abacus; the receipt written in inky calligraphy on a scrap of parchment. The restaurant may not officially be one of Japan’s most beautiful places, but it makes a strong argument to be one of Sendai’s.

NHK WORLD TV is a high-definition, international English-language channel that delivers news, enterta

DAY 4

On the road to recovery – Ishinomaki to Rikuzentakata The ‘Miracle Pine’ of Rikuzentakata is a testimony to survival. You can spot it from hundreds of metres away, its spindly trunk reaching into the northern sky against a backdrop that tells of its latest, and most dramatic, chapter of endurance: a two-storey building sits by the water just a short walk away, one half crumpled and sinking to the ground. The 250-year-old pine stands alone today, but it was once part of a thicket of 70,000 trees that lined the coast here. When the tsunami struck – the wave swelling to 15m as it roared through the shallow bay – it flattened the town and destroyed all the trees but one. People called it the Miracle Pine, and when it later died because of salt-water damage to the soil, the town raised ¥150 million to restore it as a memorial to the 1,700 people who died here. All through the prefectures hardest hit by the quake and tsunami, communities are working to move forward and rebuild. They have marked the tragedy, and commemorated what has been lost, but the feeling you get when visiting is one of grit, determination, of people trying to make an uncertain future something more definite. This is apparent at the Mirai Shotengai ‘recovery market’ (3-1 Takinosato, Takekomacho, Rikuzentakata, Iwate), which you’ll find on higher ground just a short drive from the pine. Here, merchants whose businesses were destroyed by the tsunami, and those who have opened businesses since, sell dried seaweed, flower seeds, chargrilled squid, clothes and groceries in temporary buildings. Kazuaki Abe, who runs a sushi restaurant at the market, serves incredibly fresh, skilfully made rolls, and loves telling his story to those who visit (he has a picture of PM Shinzo Abe close at hand to show you). In a similar market on high ground in Miyagi’s Onagawa, tea shop owner Takenori Onadera and his wife Akiko are planning to move into a

The 'Miracle Pine' of Rikuzentakata

Mirai Shotengai 'recovery market'

Sanriku Railway

new permanent store in the rebuilt, now-trendy downtown. Like the pine, Onadera’s story is miraculous: the wave ripped him out to sea as it recoiled, dragging him and the fifth-storey roof of his shop he was clinging to into the ocean; he managed to clamber onto a small boat and was later rescued by a fishing vessel. Survival stories are common in coastal Tohoku, from the soaring pine to the local shop owners to the region’s reopened major sites – the Sant Juan Bautista museum (30-2 Omori Watanoha, Ishinomaki, Miyagi. 022 524 2210. santjuan.or.jp) features a full-scale replica of the ship of that name which sailed from Japan to Europe and Mexico in the 17th century. Moored in a small cove, it survived the tsunami with only the mast snapped by the wave. ‘The replica was theoretically supposed to float,’ says one

museum staffer. ‘The tsunami showed it could.’ Another symbol of the region’s recovery is the Sanriku Railway, which was extensively damaged during the tsunami and reopened in 2014. Running along the coast of Iwate, it had been central to the daily lives of people here – its reopening, with its garishly painted, optimisticlooking new stations, was seen as a symbol of a region being brought back to life. Riding in one of the railway’s new cars, the seaside villages of the region pass by in little blurs of activity. On the edges of the water are the cranes and slabs of concrete and pickers and men in hardhats. But there are also little restaurants and shops and people going about their lives. Both groups are doing their best to look forward, and bring their communities with them.

IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Survival stories are common in coastal Tohoku

Kazuaki Abe and friends outside his sushi restaurant

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20 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

GREAT TOKYO WALKS You know what they say: the best way to get to know a city is to explore it on foot. And considering Tokyo consistently tops the ‘safest city’ lists, there’s really no reason to go underground when you can see so much more on the streets. We’ve put together 12 great walks, giving you the chance to discover Tokyo’s art, shops, architecture and even ghosts. Our first stop is Nakano, where you might spot what looks like an eccentric homeless person but is actually eccentric artist Takashi Murakami. To kick off our walking guide, Matt Schley chats to Murakami about his art, why Westerners react differently to it, and why he’s chosen to base much of his business in the subculture hub of Nakano Broadway. THIS IMAGE: ART DIRECTION STEVE NAKAMURA GUEST PHOTO DIRECTOR TAKASHI MURAKAMI PHOTOGRAPHY SHIN SUZUKI STYLING KAZUKI YUNOKI HAIR AND MAKE-UP ASUKA FUJIO (OTIE) CLOTHING CHRISTIAN DADA

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 21

[GREAT TOKYO WALKS]

‘JAPANESE PEOPLE DON’T GET MY ART’ ‘The 500 Arhats’ was your first show in Japan in 14 years. Why such a long break? Mori Art Museum was kind enough to hold this show, but it’s probably the last time it’ll happen while I’m alive. The problem is that my shows require big budgets, and Japanese museums probably don’t find it worthwhile to invest that kind of sum in me, a Japanese artist. Do you go check out your own shows? Once the installation is done, I’m no longer too interested in the show. We have people who are really good at the installation and negotiation side of things at my company [Kaikai Kiki], and I leave those matters to them. My interest is in constantly burying myself deeper into a fresh, creative flow of time. In that sense, the best moment for me is when I’m in my studio making art. Was that the same for the Yokohama exhibition? That was entirely different, because it’s my collection. I’m attached to each work I’ve collected, and it’s totally a hobby for me. So I was gleefully involved in the installation on site. I was there last week and the sheer amount of art felt really overwhelming. What kind of response have you received? This was the first opportunity ever for me to publicly present my collection, so we ended up exhibiting the works almost straight out of my warehouse. If we had managed to organise them a bit better, the show may have resonated more with the Japanese sensibility; instead, it was criticised by the experts as nouveau riche in taste. Western and Japanese reactions are always so different. Here, beauty and poverty are understood as equal; the stereotype that money is dirty dominates. Japanese people don’t get my art. Why do you think that is? The reason why I’m inevitably despised –

that’s one of the things I’d like to understand myself. Perhaps it’s baked into our DNA. Yesterday I watched the original ‘Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon’ on Netflix, and the whole time I was thinking about the huge difference in Western and Asian expressions of love. Asian love is very minimal. In the movie, Zhang Ziyi’s character shows her love in a Western way; lust and affection are one and the same for her. On the other hand, Michelle Yeoh’s character never achieves such a direct fulfillment of corporal love; a kiss at the moment of her love’s death is all. I wondered whether this kind of sensibility might have something to do with our DNA. You opened a series of galleries and a café-bar under the name Zingaro in Nakano Broadway. What’s Broadway like and why did you choose it? It feels very post-war. Very Asian. It reminds me of Japan in the ’60s and ’70s. It’s kind of a mecca for geeks, and [manga shop] Mandarake has many stores here. I love Mandarake, and I thought it would be great to be able to work close by. They have a bunch of different shops – one for old toys, one for manga, one for video games. I can spend hours just walking between them checking things out. Where else do you recommend in Nakano? Right behind Broadway there’s a whole mess of bars and restaurants that are very authentic and cheap. Nakano also has one of the ten best ramen shops in Japan, Aoba. When we’re finished here, please go check it out. Do you remember the first piece of art you bought? Yeah. I bought a soba-choko – a small cup for soba noodles – for ¥500 in Kyoto. I was really nervous when I bought it, because I thought, ‘Oh boy, when I buy this, my collection’s going to begin.’ Do you collect anything besides art? Yeah, I collect my hair, fingernails, facial hair, skin… Why? When you get older, your hair falls out, right? If I live another 30 years or so, maybe I can take the DNA from the old hair and use some state-ofthe-art medical technology to revive it. Actually, I’m collecting all sorts of things, imagining what might go through people’s minds when, after my death, they look at such items I’ve left behind in a museum.

22 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

PORTRAIT: SHIN SUZUKI

his is a bit of a shocking statement from Takashi Murakami, considering his just-wrapped Tokyo exhibition, ‘The 500 Arhats’, attracted over 300,000 people over its four-month run. But shocking statements are nothing new to legendary superflat artist Murakami, who’s currently showing his vast art collection in a separate exhibition at the Yokohama Museum of Art. We powwowed with Murakami at his Bar Zingaro in Nakano and discussed opening a series of galleries in an ageing mall, why Westerners see his art differently to Japanese people, and why he collects his own beard hair.

[GREAT TOKYO WALKS]

SUBCULTURE WALK

Clockwise from this image: Clear, Zingaro Space, Anison Karaoke Bar Z, Hidari Zingaro, Mandarake Henya

NAKANO

ZINGARO SPACE: SHIN SUZUKI, ALL OTHER IMAGES: KISA TOYOSHIMA

kihabara may be the place for anime and electronics otaku, but for the other otaku out there, there’s Nakano Broadway (5-52-15 Nakano, Nakano). In this retro arcade, you’ll find something for every kind of geek, and no matter how many times you go, you’ll always find something new. We start our walk at Mandarake (Nakano Broadway, 5-52-15 Nakano, Nakano), which occupies a large section of the Nakano Broadway building. Mandarake has over one million items, mostly manga and anime merchandise and knick-knacks. If you’re looking for an anime or manga-related item and can’t find it at Mandarake, chances are you won’t find it anywhere. Next, look for the bright red torii gate and you’ll be at Mandarake Henya (4F Nakano Broadway), which sells a large amount of Japanese pre-war collectables, soaps, coin banks and other rare goods that can’t be found elsewhere. At Anime Kan (4F Nakano Broadway), also on this floor, you might find cels from classics such as ‘Princess Mononoke’ and ‘Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind’. In the bookstore on the third floor, bookshelves packed with all types of manga cover the entire wall. After scooping up some treasures, take a break at Bar Zingaro (2F Nakano Broadway), where you can enjoy specialty coffee from Fuglen while surrounded by Takashi Murakami’s signature ‘flowers’. This is no coincidence since Nakano Broadway houses three galleries operated by Murakami’s company, Kaikai Kiki: Hidari Zingaro (3F Nakano Broadway) is a contemporary art store, where you can also view fresh works by upcoming artists and some more experimental works. One floor above, you’ll find Oz Zingaro (4F Nakano Broadway), which sells mainly

contemporary Japanese ceramics. pixiv Zingaro (2F Nakano Broadway) on the second floor, produced by Kaikai Kiki together with the artbased social media website pixiv, exhibits art that draws on otaku culture such as anime, manga and video games. Also here is event venue Zingaro Space (2F Nakano Broadway). At Japan’s most kitschy shopping mall, you can also purchase highbrow art of the first order. Still wandering around inside Nakano Broadway, you’ll come across glass cases containing ‘bishojo’ female character figurines, such as those at Clear (2F Nakano Broadway). The term ‘bishojo’ refers to ‘beautiful young girls’ and often features in anime and manga. Next, check out Nakano TRF (4F Nakano Broadway), known as a mecca for those who love Japanese fighting arcade games. Hosting multiday tournaments, it is known online as Battle Nation and is packed every day with die-hard fans. Step out of your comfort zone – and out of Nakano Broadway – and sing a few crazy anime songs at Anison Karaoke Bar Z (B1F World Kaikan, 5-55-6 Nakano, Nakano), which is located next door to the shopping complex. The only songs on offer at this karaoke bar are from anime, and the girls who work here are all dressed in cosplay – their hearty cheers are enough to encourage even the shyest of singers. After getting in touch with your inner otaku, explore the streets of Nakano. For a drink, hit up the bar district that spreads around the Nakano Sun Mall arcade. If it’s food you’re after, head to Islet (5-48-5 Chuo, Nakano) just on the other side of Nakano Station. Though the restaurant is a bit of a walk from the arcade, their carefully handcrafted burgers are like a pot of gold at the end of the Nakano rainbow. – Kisa Toyoshima

NAKANO BROADWAY

START

NAKANO SUN MALL ARCADE

NAKANO

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[GREAT TOKYO WALKS] Clockwise from left: Eikyudo, Matsuki Shoten, Camera

MADE-INJAPAN WALK KURAMAE

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idden in between tourist-infested Asakusa and the grittier Asakusabashi, Kuramae gets its name from the allimportant rice granaries that lined the streets here during the Edo era. As rice was literally money back in the days of the shogunate, the neighbourhood attracted plenty of wealthy merchants and other successful Edoites, many of whom took up residence in the area. Later on, Kuramae morphed into something of a centre for craftspeople – an aspect that’s still very much present, especially with the recent increase in young designers and other creatives calling the area home. Begin your exploration of this riverside ’hood around midday with the aim to be back at Kuramae Station before 7pm. First walk just a minute from exit A1 of the station to reach Matsuki Shoten (2-4-3 Kuramae, Taito-ku). Found a stone’s throw from Sumida River, where the city’s best-known summer fireworks festival has been held since 1733, Matsuki deals in colourful explosives of all shapes and sizes. The shop also carries a range

of traditional toys and decorative items, just in case you prefer something non-combustible. Just a block further along Edo-dori sits Koncent (2-4-5 Kuramae, Taito-ku), which serves as the home base for H Concept, a company involved in design consulting for a wide range of Japanese manufacturing businesses. The trendy store stands out in its surroundings, with the all-white interior decorated with cool knickknacks from all over Japan. Take your pick of items from supersoft Imabari towels to Cupmen characters for your instant noodles. Now it’s time for ramen lunch at Genraku Sohonten (2-12-3 Kuramae, Taito-ku), specialists in tonkotsu (pork bone broth) concoctions. The shoyu soup, cooked for a full three days, combines a fatty pork taste with fresh vegetable aromas, which are best sampled in their signature Gen Ramen. Take a little stroll to the end of this street, then turn left into Kasuga-dori and cross over Edo-dori. Take the next left, then the second right, and find Kuramae Shrine (3-14-11 Kuramae, Taito-ku). First

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established in 1694, it’s said to be the birthplace of kanjin sumo i.e. wrestling tournaments held to raise donations for shrines and temples. Pause here for a moment to let the ramen settle, because next you’re going to sip coffee and peruse handmade leather goods at Camera (4-218 Kuramae, Taito-ku), a café and variety goods store run by ballerina and pastry shop owner Miwako Yamada together with designer Kosuke Tamura. Next, you’re headed away from the station to Kasuga-dori where you’ll find Eikyudo (4-37-9 Kuramae, Taito-ku), an old-school wagashi shop that stands out with its earthen floor and pretty wooden interior. Pick out a selection of traditional sweets like chestnut yokan (jelly), waka-ayu (fishshaped cakes) and bean paste-filled daifuku to take away with you for later. Around the corner, you’ll arrive at Misuji Bathhouse (2-13-2 Misuji, Taito-ku), which has been offering visitors a glimpse into yesteryear

[GREAT TOKYO WALKS]

Clockwise from this image: Kakimori, Misuji Bathhouse, Maito Kuramae, M+

On the next block, look for Maito Kuramae (4-14-12 Kuramae, Taito-ku), a shop that’s focused on items made using Japan’s traditional kusakizome natural dyeing technique. You’ll find a wide range of fabrics dyed with natural liquids extracted from flowers, leaves and roots, from sakura pink and rubia red to mulberry yellow. We have to recommend the hand-dyed scarves, which maintain their shine for decades – if properly cared for. Next door is Ren Kuramae (4-13-4 Kuramae, Taito-ku), a factory store operated by the notable Ren brand. Simply crafted from quality materials, their unisex bags are all light and durable, but we’re especially fond of the super-smooth pigskin varieties. Your final stop will take you right back to

Kuramae Station. M+ (3-4-5 Kuramae, Taito-ku) is a studio and leather shop run by artisan Yuichiro Murakami who learned his techniques in Italy. You can find his products elsewhere in Tokyo, however this outlet also offers exhibits on how the leather ages, giving you a good idea of what exactly you’re paying for. – Jun Harada

CAMERA, MISUJI, MAITO KURAMAE AND M+: JUN HARADA, KAKIMORI: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

since 1951. With its antique kawara roof, the bathhouse preserves traditional architecture and interiors from the Showa period. The most remarkable feature is a luxurious garden that you can see from the changing rooms. It’s open from 3pm (Tue-Sun) and the entrance fee is ¥460. After a steaming soak, make your way back towards the station to Kokusai-dori. Stop in at specialist stationery shop Kakimori (4-20-12 Kuramae, Taito-ku). Their range of pens, inks and lettersets are chosen on the basis of how comfortable they are to use, and customers are welcome to try out the fountain pens in store. Best of all are the made-to-order notebooks, prepared in five to 10 minutes, with an infinitely customisable selection of covers, paper and bindings available.

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[GREAT TOKYO WALKS] Clockwise from this image: Oboroke, LOOK, Sculpture Tree, Reflectscape

ART WALK

TOKYO SKYTREE

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et this: a compact, walkable area around Tokyo’s Sumida River is the site of both the city’s oldest temple, Sensoji, and its newest technological marvel, the 634-metre Tokyo Skytree. And as if that weren’t enough, it’s actually a pretty nice place to lay your eyes on some art. Once you’re finished with the famous neighbourhood’s requisite tourist stops, give this walk a try and discover the Sumida’s arty side. The main art attraction along the Sumida is the Geidai Taito Sumida Art Project, or GTS, a series of outdoor installations created a few years back by students at the Tokyo University of the Arts to coincide with the completion of the Skytree. On the Asakusa side of the river, make your first stop Sumida Park

(1 Mukojima, Sumida). Heading to the park from Asakusa Station, the first GTS projects you’ll encounter are the bowl-shaped Green Planet as well as a pair of GTS ‘art benches’. Art you can sit on – what an accommodating city. Don’t leave Sumida Park quite yet. Head north and you’ll run into two more GTS pieces, Sky Nest, a bird’s nest made of large wooden planks and LOOK, a series of giant arrows pointing towards the Skytree (you know, just in case you missed it). After you’ve LOOKed at these pieces long enough, cross the river via Kototoi-bashi and head towards the Skytree. Near Tokyo Skytree Station you’ll encounter another couple GTS pieces, Oboroke and Reflectscape, the latter of which, a giant mirror reflecting the tower, lies across from a mini-amusement park built in the shape of a pirate ship – a bit of post-modern art in its own right. Before you cross back over to the Asakusa side of the river via Azuma-bashi, enter the Asahi Beer Headquarters plaza (it’s easy to find – look for the building topped with a golden turd). Here you’ll find another GTS piece, Sculpture Tree, and Gallery A Bientot (1-23-30 Azumabashi, Sumida. abientot.main.jp), which has been hosting paintings, photographs and whatever else can be stuck on its walls since 2008. You may be tempted to grab a beer at Asahi HQ, but if you want to have a drink while staying in the art spirit, cross back to Asakusa, take a left on Edo-dori and you’ll be within spitting distance of Gallery EF (2-19-18 Kaminarimon,

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Taito. www.gallery-ef.com). Housed in a former warehouse that dates back to 1868, EF is a café and bar that hosts exhibitions plus dance and rakugo performances. They also appear to have an unhealthy obsession with cats. We’re not finished yet. Tucked into a side street not far from the massive Honzan Higashi Honganji Temple lies one of Asakusa’s newest galleries, Asakusa (1-6-16 Nishi-Asakusa, Taito. www. asakusa-o.com). Sandwiched into a residential block, open only three days a week, and with a virtually unGoogleable name, Asakusa almost feels like it doesn’t want to be found, but that’s part of the fun. We clock this walk in at about 3.5km – with breaks to marvel at the pieces, give the art benches a sit, and go down the pirate ship slide (you know you want to), we figure it takes about two hours, but if you’re attempting to pack as much art into as little time as possible, consider renting a bicycle. You can get one from Taito Ward at ¥200 for four hours or ¥300 for a whole day at the cycle parking facility in Sumida Park (1-1 Hanakawado, Taito). – Matt Schley

OBOROKE: KISA TOYOSHIMA, ALL OTHER IMAGES: MATT SCHLEY

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[GREAT TOKYO WALKS] Tokyo Station, De Beers Ginza (left)

ARCHITECTURE WALK START

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s Japanese architecture has traditionally envisioned buildings as temporary and expendable, in part due to the constant threat of fires and earthquakes, Tokyo has been left with fewer examples of historic architecture than places like Europe and the UK. Nevertheless, the neighbouring districts of Marunouchi and Ginza still contain a number of buildings that have, through a combination of luck and love, managed to stay standing, providing an ideal opportunity to enjoy a walk around town and see a blend of old and new architecture. Our starting point today is Tokyo Station (1-9-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda), which suffered damage but survived the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 as well as bombings during World War II. Recently restored to its original 1914 splendour, the station building has a beautifully designed roof featuring twin domes, which boast spectacular ceilings. The roof was built with slate from Ogatsu, a city damaged by the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami, and thus symbolises the hope for the area’s recovery. Walking south from here, you will see the Tokyo International Forum (3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda), easily recognisable by its huge, glass, boatshaped atrium. This building, which was constructed during the bubble economy, cost more to build than both Tokyo Skytree and Shinjuku’s Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. Next, passing under the Yamanote line railway tracks and entering Ginza, you’ll spot a tall rectangular building with irregularly shaped windows that make it look a little like a big block of Swiss cheese. Mikimoto Ginza 2 (2-4-12 Ginza, Chuo), designed by Toyo Ito, features a complex construction system that combines metal and concrete to enable the nine-storey structure to stand strong even without any internal support pillars or any visible surface seams. The next structure to catch your eye will be the nearby flagship store of De Beers Ginza (2-5-11 Ginza, Chuo).

Its twisted frame gives it an almost Seussian appearance. Take a walk around the back to find the Okuno Building (1-9-8 Ginza, Chuo). One of the oldest apartment buildings in the country, it was constructed in 1932 to house luxury apartments but, these days, its worn interior is home mostly to art galleries and studios. Be sure to take a ride in the manually operated elevator. Returning to Chuo-dori, head for the Wako Building (4-5-11 Ginza, Chuo) whose landmark clock tower is a famed symbol of Ginza. Cross the street and walk down Harumi-dori, where you’ll find the iconic Kabukiza Theatre (4-12-15 Ginza, Chuo). Fires and airborne wartime attacks almost destroyed it, but it was rebuilt every time. The theatre’s post-war building, completed in 1950, was demolished in 2010 to make way for a new structure, which staged its first performances on April 2, 2013. The traditional yet futuristic design was conceived by Kengo Kuma, whose next big project will be Tokyo’s new National Stadium. Next, take a look at the Nicolas G Hayek Center (7-9-18 Ginza, Chuo) on Chuo-dori. The architect, Shigeru Ban, included novel design elements such as a vertical garden covering the walls of the atrium and glass elevators that double as showcases. Continuing on to the Shuto Expressway, look out for Bordeaux (8-10-7 Ginza, Chuo), Ginza’s longest running bar. The ivy-covered, Western-style building has remained unchanged since 1927. Take a quiet moment in this reserved space once frequented by the gentlemen of high society. Our final stop is Nakagin Capsule Tower (8-4-6 Ginza, Chuo), the epitome of Metabolist architecture. The exterior, with its rows of capsules on a steel frame shaft, evokes an atmosphere of ’70s and ’80s scifi, and is an unforgettable sight. There are ongoing discussions about rebuilding it because of its deterioration, but for now, there are rooms available on Airbnb should you want to feel like you’ve stepped inside ‘Blade Runner’ for a night. And with that, I bid you goodnight. – Jun Harada

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LOCAL INSIGHT

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The great shoppi Welcome to Shibuya, Tokyo’s shopping mecca, which satisfies all tastes and budgets. To help you navigate this cultural hub, we’ve divided it up into four walks, focusing on different styles. You can choose to do them separately or, for the ultimate Shibuya shopping experience, combine them for a full day of retail therapy.

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Go back to the main street and stop by hat complex Laforet Harajuku (1-11-6 Jingumae, shop Ca4la (1-2F, 4-26-18 Jingumae, Shibuya). Shibuya). The 1.5BF (yes, they even have half Then cross the pedestrian bridge just in front floors to maximise on space!) is filled with Lolita of it and drop by famed designer products store fashion and is a little like entering a fantasy world. MoMA Design Store (3F Gyre, 5-10-1 Jingumae, Back in the real world, cross Meiji-dori at the Shibuya), located inside the plush Gyre building. traffic lights and notice the building on the corner Don’t forget to visit Kiddy Land (6-1-9 Jingumae, with an entrance covered in mirrors. This is Tokyu START Shibuya) to browse loads of cartoon characters, Plaza Omotesando Harajuku (4-30-3 Jingumae, then wander down the very cool Cat Street. On your Shibuya), a good place for brand names like right, you’ll see the Japan flagship store of Opening Minnetonka as well as quirky souvenirs. Then carry on along Omotesando street and turn Ceremony (6-7-1-B Jingumae, Shibuya), where you’ll find apparel from up-and-coming designers left at the first corner (you’ll probably see a long and cult streetwear brands. At the end of Cat queue; they’re lining up for pancakes). Walk past Street, you’ll connect to Miyashita Park’s crossing, the line of people for one block until you spot the which is just a short walk from Shibuya Station. pink exterior of 6% Dokidoki (4-28-16 Jingumae, – Mayumi Koyama Shibuya). This shrine to the ‘shockingly cute’ offers an array of accessories and clothing in some truly eye-popping colours.

arajuku is well-known as the centre of Japan’s kawaii (cute) culture and as an area that continuously gives birth to new trends. Begin your walk on the famed Takeshitadori, which is packed with shops selling unique yet cheap goods. Arrive at Harajuku Station and take the Takeshita-dori exit. Follow the crowds down a short hill and push your way through the throng of Japanese teens until you see Calbee Plus (1-16-8 Jingumae, Shibuya) on your right. This is an antenna shop of Calbee, one of Japan’s major snack manufacturers. We recommend tasting their cup of hot, fresh chips with special toppings such as double cheese, chocolate sauce and soft serve ice cream. Browse your way to the end of the street and turn right onto Meiji-dori towards the popular shopping

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Our Shibuya walk is divided into four different trails, however they can be combined into one marathon shopping day – if you’ve got the stamina. Here’s a snapshot of how they all connect together.

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Opening Ceremony (above), Angelic Pretty at Laforet Harajuku (right)

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continue all the way south until you reach the elevated Metropolitan FabCafe Expressway at the Dogenzaka crossing. Rest your legs at FabCafe (1-22-7 Dogenzaka, Shibuya), a comfy spot that lets customers try their hand at laser cutting and 3D printing while sipping on a cute marshmallow latte or some herbal tea. All powered up? It’s time to find your final destination: the landmark Shibuya 109 (2-291 Dogenzaka, Shibuya) is the domain of the S joshikosei – fashion-obsessed girls in their teens KY UY – and women in their twenties who don’t AM just ATE around follow trends but start them. Take a stroll -D OR DAIKANYAMA STA to see them in action, indulge in some amateur I anthropology, and dig for top-value deals. – Ili Saarinen

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o begin your stroll through some of Shibuya’s most stylish spots, head to Nude ight) ude Trump (r Trump (3F, 1-12-14 Jinnan, Shibuya), Fake Tokyo, N a long-standing vintage clothing shop run by absurdist fashionista Hayao Next, keep going straight along Inokashira-dori Matsumura. The boutique is a chaotic jumble of until you reach Tokyu Hands (12-18 Udagawacho, outré garments and accessories: you’ll find all Shibuya). Stocking everything from stationery to kinds of studded, sequinned and fur-print oddities kitchenware, this is the largest household goods squeezed into its cramped racks and shelves, store in Tokyo, packed with knickknacks for the accompanied by a range of boots, T-shirts, home and also well-versed in offbeat accessories. jackets, sunglasses, blinged-out jewellery and Particularly interesting is the party supplies Don Quijote-grade novelty tat. section, which gives a unique glimpse into the Once you’ve spiced up your outfit, set course Japanese sense of humour. down the street to find Onitsuka Tiger (1-21-3 Take a few steps back to where you came from, Jinnan, Shibuya) the sneaker brand of choice for turn right and look upwards to find the sign for athletes, assorted dignitaries and all retro-biased Recofan (4F, 31-2 Udagawacho, Shibuya). This Tokyoites. The Asics forerunner’s two-storey vintage record specialist has a policy of selling Shibuya outpost carries the brand’s full line of new releases at bargain basement rates – in some shoes, in addition to a range of original clothing cases, half the retail price. It also has an extensive and accessories, and is unmissable for anyone on selection of secondhand CDs covering all genres, the hunt for Japan-made footwear. and regular shoppers can opt for a loyalty card that Put those new kicks to the test right away and provides even bigger discounts. find your way past Loft: behind this seven-floor If you’re eager to turn the focus back to lifestyle superstore hides Fake Tokyo (18-4 wearables, continue your trek past the Tokyu Udagawacho, Shibuya), another popular haunt department store and dive into Galaxxxy (2-23-10 for the young and fashion-conscious. Offering a Dogenzaka, Shibuya). With its retina-searing neons wide range of labels from high-end international and rave- and anime-influenced styles, this must be brands (J.W. Anderson and Valentino) to cuttingone of Shibuya’s most garish boutiques – perfect edge Japanese brands (99%IS- and Christian for fashionistas with a strong individualist streak. Dada), this shop is where to perfect that edgy Next, turn left up towards Maruyamacho and Shibuya look.

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f you fancy yourself a little more sophisticated, this route will be just up your alley. Start off from the tranquil Kamiyamacho area, on the south-west side of Yoyogi Park, where you might want to enjoy some sunshine and greenery before embarking on the walk. Leaving the park, take the exit near Yoyogi-Koen Station and walk down Inokashira-dori until you spot a statue of a milk cow on your right. This is Shibuya Cheese Stand (5-8 Kamiyamacho, Shibuya), which serves up some delicious fresh mozzarella and ricotta. Turn right at the end of the block to head for the hip bookstore Shibuya Publishing & Booksellers (17-3 Kamiyamacho, Shibuya). Magazines and books, both new and used, are arranged according to theme, meaning that you might find a philosophical tract alongside some manga or art books. Though the selections are predominantly Japanese-language, Shibuya Publishing Booksellers also stocks a few English titles – and it’s a rewarding place to browse even if you can’t read most of what you’re looking at. Find more inspiration, but this time in the form of flowers, at Trefle (42-10 Udagawacho, Shibuya), a florist you’ll find hiding in a back street. Their chic style of wrapping flowers enhances the beauty of each bloom. Go back to Inokashira-dori and turn left at Tokyu Hands. Cross Koen-dori and turn right to head

down a hill towards the end of the street. There you’ll find the newly launched Shibuya Modi shopping complex. Inside, look for The Yard (4F, 1-21-3 Jinnan, Shibuya), which is possibly the most modern kimono store we’ve ever come across. The interior design, the fabrics used and even the store concept are super contemporary, and the tailors here create easy-to-wear, custom-made kimonos that won’t max out your credit card. Back on the street, head north until you see a Starbucks on your left, then turn right to cross Meiji-dori. Look for a brown-brick building, which houses a made-in-Japan clothing store called 45R (6-19-16 Jingumae, Shibuya). It emphasises the Japanese tradition of producing durable, comfortable fashion. Walk down Meiji-dori to the high-rise shopping complex Shibuya Hikarie, which is packed with refined stores, including Katakana (5F Shibuya Hikarie ShinQs, 2-21-1 Shibuya, Shibuya). Stock up on souvenir-type items like traditional fans and Mt Fuji paraphernalia. Then go up to the 8th floor to D47Musem (8F Shibuya Hikarie, 2-21-1 Shibuya, Shibuya), where each exhibition is devoted to showcasing a particular theme, as represented by

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SHIBUYA STA.

ROPPONGI-DOR

Japan’s different prefectures. To wrap up this classy journey: about five minutes from Shibuya Station, on Roppongidori, you’ll find British Equipment Trading (3-5-1 Shibuya, Shibuya). They stock vintage Barbour jackets, Smiths watches and TM Lewin shirts, but also a slightly haphazard assortment of imported British foods and sundries, For more shopping, you can from Walkers biscuits to get from Shibuya Station to Brylcreem. – Mayumi Koyama Futako-Tamagawa in just 10 minutes on the Den-entoshi Line.

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From top: Shibuya Hikarie , D47Museum, The Yard, Shibuya Cheese Stand

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nce you’ve found your feet at Daikanyama Station, take the west exit and turn right to see a tree-lined footpath next to the Toyoko line tracks: this is the newish Log Road (13 Daikanyama, Shibuya), a shopping mall that’s not really a mall at all. Rather, it’s a collection of freestanding shops and cafés, the largest of which is LA-based boutique Fred Segal. Pick up some trendsetting clobber, watch the impeccably dressed locals strut by, and sit down for a pint of craft beer at the Spring Valley brewpub. Next, leave the railroad behind, turn left when you reach the next major street and navigate your way to Bonjour Records (24-1 Sarugakucho, Shibuya) on the next corner. Much more than a mere CD shop, this hip retailer carries the latest fashion from Maison Kitsuné and also operates a pair of its own clothing labels. Just a few steps up the same street is Okura (20-11 Sarugakucho, Shibuya). Modelled on an

EBISU STA.

old Japanese-style warehouse, it showcases traditional arts and craft skills in a beguiling interior. Almost everything here is dyed with natural indigo dye – a method used in Japan since ancient times. You’ll find T-shirts, jackets, sweaters, socks, kimono-motif tops and much more – all of which are durable and comfortable. With souvenir bags in tow, keep going until you hit Daikanyama T-Site (17-5 Sarugakucho, Shibuya), a sleek complex best known for the revolutionary Tsutaya Books. In a perfect world, all bookshops would be like this emporium, spread across three interlinked buildings. It’s easy to lose hours thumbing through the selections, which include a good range of English-language titles, art books, antique tomes and magazine back issues. Once you’re all booked out, exit onto Daikanyama’s main drag, turn left again and look for Hollywood Ranch Market (28-17 Sarugakucho, Shibuya) on your left. Hippier than

your average Daikanyama store, it’s played a key role in the area’s emerging fashion scene. Browse T-shirts, denim and hats at reasonable, non-Daikanyama prices, and rest your eyes on the shop’s funky art decor. Find your way back to the station’s main exit, dive down one of the side streets and you might catch a whiff of some seriously delicious fragrances. This means you’ve located Le Labo (1-35-2 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya), the Tokyo outpost of the New York-born luxury perfumer. The shelves are lined with diffusers, room sprays, scented candles and other opulent products – very posh, very pricey, but very worth it. Leaving the station zone behind, head east towards Ebisu, where Walpa Store Tokyo (1-172 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya) awaits eager home decorators. If wallpaper is what you’re after, there’s probably no better shop in Tokyo: this import wallpaper specialist stocks a wide range of items from all over the world, and all designs can be compared on a large panel set up inside the shop. Right next door is the eco-conscious Marugo Deli Ebisu (1-17-1 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya), your one-stop shop for additive-free smoothies, freshly pressed juice, granola bowls, organic jam and sandwiches. Perfect for overcoming the afternoon slump. Your last destination for the day can be found all the way on the other side of Ebisu Station, not far from Shibuya River. Nadiff a/p/a/r/t (1-18-4 Ebisu, Shibuya) is arguably the city’s best-stocked art bookshop, boasting shelves crammed with Japanese and foreign books, as well as a selection of prints. – Ili Saarinen

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[GREAT TOKYO WALKS]

GHOST & MYSTERY WALK YOTSUYA, SHINJUKU

YASUKUNI-DOR

Oiwa Inari Tamiya Jinja

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YOTSUYA-SANCHOME

SHINJUKUGYOEN-MAE -DORI

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Sorry, allow us to offer you a drink. Pop into Vowz Bar, which is run by monks who will calm your nerves with cocktails and perhaps a bit of Buddhist wisdom. Then head back up to Shinjuku-dori, cross the road and keep walking so that Yotsuya-Sanchome Station is now behind you. When you arrive at the next big intersection, you’ll see Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden up ahead, which is a good spot for some R&R. If you’re with Lilly, however, she’ll keep you on your toes with the shocking story of how, in the ’80s, Japanese pop star Yukiko Okada, 18, jumped to her death from the 7th storey of the Okido Building (nicknamed Sun Music Building because Sun Music talent agency once had offices here). If you cross over to where the road intersects with Gaien-nishi-dori, you’ll be standing at the scene. Lightening the mood a little, your next stop is an antiques shop on Gaien-nishi-dori called Space Village (Uchumura). It’s owned by Hachiro Kageyama (twitter.com/ uchumura), who calls himself

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an alien and a meteorite dealer. (There’s a reason we called this a ghost and mystery walk.) Now take a left and pass by Sanyutei-Encho Kyukyoato, a site that was once the home of Sanyutei Encho – a rakugo storyteller from the Meiji era who was famed for his ghost tales. Carry on walking until you find Taisoji Temple, which Lilly calls ‘Hell Compound’. When you peek through the wire window into the temple, you’ll see why: you’ll be staring straight into the demonic eyes of the ‘great judge of the underworld’. Look to his right and you’ll start at the sight of the ‘fleshstripping hag’. The final stretch of the walk takes you through Shinjuku’s gay district, Ni-chome, past a haunted pub from the ’40s, to Jokakuji, a temple where around 2,200 prostitutes were ‘thrown away’. It also houses a monument to the 18 ‘love suicides’ that happened in Japan between 1800 and 1814. Love will tear us apart, indeed. – Annemarie Luck To book a Haunted Tokyo Tour, visit www.hauntedtokyotours.com

DATSUEBA: LILLY FIELDS, HACHIRO & LILLY: ANNEMARIE LUCK, DEMON & OIWA INARI TAMIYA JINJA: JORDY MEOW

This is a nod to the fact that, once upon a time, rickshaw drivers would drop off red-light district customers at this very spot. Walk down the hill and imagine a time when the little pubs that line the street were filled with geishas and, well, cheating husbands. As you walk towards the nearby ‘secret goblin pond’, Lilly will tell you a saucy tale or two of lovers scorned. And, when you arrive at the pond, she’ll explain how the water came to be infested with ‘kappa’, the Japanese water monsters who like to extract their victims’ ‘shirikodama’, a mythical ball found in your – wait for it – anus.

SHARIKIMON-DORI

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Clockwise from this image: Datsueba the ‘flesh-stripping hag’, Hachiro Kageyama the ‘alien’ with tour guide Lilly Fields, ‘the great judge of the underworld’

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or maximum spookiness, we decided to call on Lilly Fields, founder of Haunted Tokyo Tours and guru of the ghostly spirits that roam the streets of our city. She took us on her ‘Demons of the Red Light District’ tour, which begins at Yotsuya-Sanchome Station and winds through hidden alleys, while Lilly builds a fascinating story of the area’s tragic history and how it has shaped the supernatural tales of today. Take exit 3 at Yotsuya-Sanchome Station onto Shinjuku-dori and turn left around a corner into the Samoncho neighbourhood. A gust of cold air? Could be the angry ghost of Oiwa, who floats around the area, frightening locals to the point that many won’t even set foot on these streets. Four blocks down, on a parallel street to your left, you’ll find Oiwa Inari Tamiya Jinja, a shrine dedicated to keeping her spirit placated. Why’s she so furious? As legend has it, Oiwa’s husband poisoned her (it wasn’t pretty), and she took revenge by committing suicide but vowing to haunt him forever. After paying your respects to Oiwa, find your way back to Shinjuku-dori and cross the road. Look for the entrance to Sharikimon-dori – it’s easy to spot thanks to two tall poles bearing symbols of rickshaw drivers.

[GREAT TOKYO WALKS]

MOUNTAIN WALK MT TAKAO

CITY VIEW: ANNEMARIE LUCK, ALL OTHER IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

t Takao towers over the western reaches of Tokyo and, along with Mt Fuji, has been awarded three stars in the Michelin Green Guide Japan, cementing it as a popular tourist destination. Not too far from the city centre, the mountain makes for a relatively easy way to enjoy abundant natural scenery and mountain climbing. The convenience of being able to go any time (even as a last-minute daytrip) makes it very appealing. The best way to get there is by train: from Shinjuku Station, it takes just 50 minutes on the Keio line. Alight at Takaosanguchi Station (not Takao Station, which is the stop before) and you’ll be facing the front of the mountain. Don’t be tempted by the cable car or chair lifts at the foot of the mountain – taking either of these will cut short your walk and it’s really not a difficult climb. There are many different trails to choose from, but for a three-hour round-trip, walk up trail no. 1 and look for the observation deck halfway up the mountain. You’ll find restaurants and teahouses here, and if you’re here during summer there’ll be beer gardens too – in fact, many people go up and down by cable car just to enjoy a few drinks on the mountain. If you continue climbing, you’ll reach Monkey Park and the Wild Plant Garden. It’s ¥420 to

enter, but it’s worth it to see the community of monkeys who live here as well as the approximately 300 kinds of wild plants growing in the garden. Right before the summit, look for Yakuo-in, a Buddhist temple founded in 744. If you make prior reservations, you can enjoy traditional Buddhist vegetarian food here. The summit of Mt Takao is just another 20 minutes’ walk. When you arrive, crack open a beer while taking in the superb view. Returning to the foot of the mountain, you’ll notice a large number of soba restaurants dotted around. The area is famous for its tororo soba, which is made with buckwheat noodles, grated yam and egg – a dish that is sure to satisfy a post-hike appetite. Don’t worry if you can’t decide which restaurant to choose – they’re pretty much all well-established so the soba and sake on offer is bound to be good quality. Naturally, taking a hot-spring dip is the best way to relax after a few hours of exercise. Gokurakuyu (www.gokurakuyu.ne.jp) is a newly opened natural hot spring bath where you can soothe tired muscles in the carbonated or outdoor baths. Note that it gets very crowded on weekend evenings, so plan ahead if you’re coming solely for the hot spring – although if you don’t tackle the Mt Takao walk too, you’ll be missing out. – Kunihiro Miki

From top: Cross the suspension bridge on your way up, skip the cable car unless you're just here for a drink, Monkey Park, a soba reward, view from the top

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[GREAT TOKYO WALKS]

TSUKIJI FISH MARKET WALK TSUKIJI, CHUO

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walk around the legendary Tsukiji Fish Market may leave you feeling a little sour, knowing that 80 years of history will come to an end when the market is relocated to Koto ward in November. Or maybe it’s just the pungent smell of fish. In any case, we suggest you head to Tsukiji at 9am, which is when the Inner Market opens to the public. You may have heard about the 5am tuna auction, but unless you’re a Japanese fishmonger and your livelihood depends on it, there’s no good

reason to get up before the crack of dawn and queue for hours to watch men shout over dead fish. After alighting at Tsukijishijo Station at a reasonable hour, say ohayo to the day with coffee at Aiyo (Bldg 6, 5-2-1 Tsukiji, Chuo). While the clientele of the restaurants and cafés surrounding the market were originally fishermen, now you’ll see hordes of hungry tourists and salarymen settling in for sushi. By contrast, Aiyo has remained local and is frequented by veteran vendors who engage in oldchum banter as classical music plays on a radio as old as they are. It’s sad to know that this age-old establishment, among others, will also soon be forced to close its doors. When you’ve had your fill of caffeine and politely feigned drinking the obligatory tea offered afterwards, head over to the Inner Market. Or at least try to. You’ll find yourself partaking in a fun but possibly dangerous waltz around pushcarts and mopeds rushing to and fro, carrying all kinds of sea creatures lodged in beds of ice. Once in the market, you’ll see the entire oceanic kingdom of Japan displayed before your eyes, with fish, crustaceans and invertebrates of all shapes and sizes for sale. You’ll have a field day if you happen to be a marine biologist. To taste the fish, hop over to the Outer Market for a stroll. Grab an egg omelette on a stick from Yamacho (4-16-2 Tsukiji, Chuo),

34 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

which is not only delicious but will also serve as a welcome starter to all the seafood that’s to come. Our next stops are Nisshin Tasuke (4-13-18 Tsukiji, Chuo), where you should try the eel on a skewer, and Tsukugon (4-12-5 Tsukiji, Chuo), whose chiyoda (onion wrapped in a streak of bacon) is heavenly. The rule of thumb for navigating the labyrinthine streets of the Outer Market is to avoid tourists and follow your nose, all the while filling up on free samples offered at stalls, including roasted soybeans and crisp nori chips. If you’re still hungry for more, we suggest a trip to Sushikuni (4-14-15 Tsukiji, Chuo) for their admittedly pricey but delicious rice bowl, which comes topped with a variety of sashimi, copious amounts of salmon caviar and tasty uni (sea urchin), for which the restaurant is famous. To satisfy your sweet tooth, grab a taiyaki from Sanoki-ya (4-11-9 Tsukiji, Chuo), which is sweet red bean paste enclosed in a crispy pancake shell that looks (but rest assured does not taste) like fish. For some after-food shopping, check out Jugetsudo (4-7-5 Tsukiji, Chuo), a shop that specialises in nori and tea, and Hitachiya (4-1418 Tsukiji, Chuo), where you can buy Japanese kitchen tools and cute sake cups in the shape of Mt Fuji. If you still have energy for a short walk, stop by the iconic Tsukiji Honganji (3-15-1 Tsukiji, Chuo) to calm your mind after the hustle and bustle of the market. The soothing scent of incense that pervades the temple will come as a fragrant change. – Yusuf Huysal

TSUKUGON, YAMACHO: KISA TOYOSHIMA, STREET, FISH: KEISUKE TANIGAWA, EEL: YUKAKO IZUMI

Clockwise from this image: the morning's catch, omelette at Yamacho, mind the pushcarts, chiyoda at Tsukugon, eel on a skewer at Nisshin Tasuke

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RIVERSIDE WALK NAKANOSHIMA, OSAKA

LOCAL INSIGHT

From left: Graf, Tenjinbashi

Start your day right with a luxurious buffet breakfast at the Rihga Royal Hotel Osaka (5-368 Nakanoshima, Kita. 06 6448 1121. www. rihga.com/osaka. ¥2,800, breakfast served daily 6.30am-10am daily), where the usual croissants and omelettes can be combined with a wide range of Japanese pickles, tofu, miso soup and even ‘ham steaks’. Once you’re charged up, head down to Tosabori river and follow it a few hundred metres east to reach Graf (4-1-9 Nakanoshima, Kita. 06 6459 2100. graf-d3.com. Tue-Sun 11am-7pm), a super-trendy shop and café run by the Kansai region’s leading design studio. Great for styling up your home with Japan-made furniture, tableware, accessories and ceramics, the store deals exclusively in items designed by Graf or created by artisans with ties to the studio. This emphasis on local production is also evident at the café, A look into where the menu consists of simple lunch sets the past on and tasty pastries made with ingredients sourced Nishikibashi (left), Ristorante directly from contracted farmers. Rinascere Next, keep going in an eastward direction to Dojima (below) reach Nishikibashi, an arched concrete bridge now open only to pedestrians, and check out the art depicting Edo- and Meiji-era Osaka for an idea of what the area looked like 150 years ago. Then, turn north and walk all the way up to Dojima river and cross the Garden Bridge to find a cluster of traditional houses by the water. One of these gorgeously renovated abodes is home to your lunch spot for the day: Ristorante Rinascere

saka may be most famed for its street food, vibrant nightlife and plentiful shopping opportunities, but Japan’s second-largest city is also a historically and culturally rich metropolis perfectly suited to on-foot exploration. This more refined side of Osaka is best experienced in Nakanoshima, an oblong-shaped island sitting in between the Dojima and Tosabori rivers. It’s home to wide, tree-lined streets, numerous museums and stylish restaurants and cafés, while also serving as the city’s administrative and commercial centre. Follow us on a one-day stroll along Osaka’s waterways and discover the sights, tastes and energetic atmosphere of a district visibly on the rise.

Dojima (1-1-8 Dojimahama, Kita. 06 6345 8505. rinascere-dojima.jp. Daily 11.30am-3pm, 5.30pm-11pm daily). Serving up modern Italian cuisine with a Japanese twist – think unagi pasta or tofu with olive oil – the restaurant boasts nice views of the river and the Osaka Bank of Japan building, but keeps prices very reasonable. ¥2,380 gets you a five-course lunch while the pasta sets go for ¥1,240. Reservations recommended. Kick off your afternoon activities at the Museum of Oriental Ceramics, Osaka (1-1-26 Nakanoshima, Kita. 06 6223 0055. www.moco.or.jp/en/. Tue-Sun 9.30am-5pm), which houses around 6,000 pieces of pottery mainly from Korea and China. The worldrenowned collection of East Asian ceramics is particularly plentiful, and is counted among the best of its kind anywhere. When you’ve had enough of ancient pots, order a coffee-filled one instead at the nearby Garb Weeks café (1-1-29 Nakanoshima, Kita. 06 6226 0181. www.garbweeks.com. Mon-Fri 11.30am-11.30pm, Sat, Sun 11am-11.30pm), where you can also fight the afternoon slump with a slice of cake or power up with Neapolitanstyle pizza. On a sunny day, consider grabbing a seat on the riverside terrace or find a bench at the nearby rose garden in Nakanoshima Park (1 Nakanoshima, Kita). This spacious spot of greenery is at its most spectacular in May, when around 4,000 roses burst into bloom, but also merits a visit in early autumn.

It’s most spectacular after sunset

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Clockwise from top left: Garb Weeks, Osaka Castle, Kitahama Urara, cherry blossoms leading to the Japan Mint building, Osaka Central Public Hall

The most touristy stop on your stroll will most likely be Osaka Castle (1-1 Osakajo, Chuo. 06 6941 3044. osakacastle.net/english), which sits just southeast of Nakanoshima but close enough to be reached on foot. First built in 1583 by conquering warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the fortress has been destroyed and rebuilt several times over the centuries – the current version, equipped with elevators and other modern conveniences, was completed in 1997 – but remains a symbol of the city’s illustrious history. Dodge the hordes of travellers snapping selfies and taking pictures with dressed-up ‘samurai’ in front of the main keep and climb up on one of the surrounding walls to survey the majestic moats and steep stone foundations that used to efficiently deter any potential invaders. The spacious grounds can be accessed for free, but entrance to the castle museum (9am-5pm daily) costs ¥600. If you’re looking to go all out, board the golden ‘pleasure boat’, modelled on a vessel once used by Hideyoshi himself, and cruise the outer moat like the aristocrats of old. This ship runs between March and November (10am-4.30pm). You’re sure to have worked up an appetite at the castle, so now’s the time to set course for the bundle of hip restaurants known as Kitahama Terrace. These dozen or so eateries make good use of their riverside perches and attract diners with open-air seating right by the water. Cuisine choices range from Spanish tapas and French bistro fare to Australian-inspired café grub, but our top recommendation would have to be the innovative washoku at Kitahama Urara (1-112 Kitahama, Chuo. 06 6121 2038. Mon-Sat 5pm-11pm). The chefs at this serious but homely Japanese restaurant turn out finely balanced seasonal dishes that wow both the

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eyes and the tastebuds. You can either book one of the kaiseki courses or order off the à la carte menu – whatever your choice, there’ll be sake to go with it, as the owner here is also an expert nihonshu dealer. Nakanoshima shows its most spectacular side after sunset, when most of the island’s bridges and other landmarks come to life with colourful illuminations. The main attraction is the red-brick Osaka City Central Public Hall (1-1-27 Nakanoshima, Kita), a neo-Renaissance beauty designed by Kingo Tatsuno of Tokyo Station fame and completed in 1918. Now considered one of Osaka’s most iconic structures, it gets lit up every evening and occasionally serves as a canvas for projection mapping displays. Other night-time sights worth a look include Tenjinbashi, Tenmabashi and Suishobashi bridges, as well as the pillars of the elevated Hanshin Expressway. The after-dark hours are also when to catch riverside Osaka’s cherry blossoms at their most breathtaking. Stroll east along the north shore of the river from Tenjinbashi to enter a striking tunnel of illuminated yozakura (night sakura), stretching all the way up to the Japan Mint building (1-1-79 Tenma, Kita). Blossom season itself usually starts from late March, but mid-April is when the Mint opens up its famous ‘sakura walkthrough’ to the public. This 560m passageway is renowned as one of Osaka’s very best flower-viewing spots and always attracts massive crowds – look out for the precise opening dates on the Mint’s website (tinyurl. com/TOTmint-sakura). – Ili Saarinen

SEE OSAKA ON A RIVER CRUISE There are a wealth of options available for anyone looking to explore Osaka by boat: more than 20 different cruise routes allow you to see not only Nakanoshima but also the Dotonbori area and Osaka Castle. The year-round Aqua Liner cruise takes you from the castle alongside Nakanoshima and all the way to the Osaka Amenity Park port in around an hour, while the Dotonbori River Cruise crisscrosses the city’s bestknown entertainment district. Cruise times, routes and prices vary by season – for more information, check out tinyurl.com/TOTosakacruise

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Blue through the ages Exploring the ancient mysteries of Japan’s favourite colour

apis lazuli has long been regarded as a supreme colour in Japan – a magical hue that reminds one of the deep sea and carries a mysterious power that transcends time. Here, we try to pinpoint the mystique of this particular blue by looking at several artistic masterpieces, all of which express the charm of lapis lazuli and have been loved by Japanese people since ancient times.

LOCAL INSIGHT

EDO KIRIKO

YOHEN TENMOKU CHAWAN

This chawan (bowl) is a national treasure made in China during the Southern Song dynasty. There are only three left in Japan, leading them to be called the Tenka Sanwan (‘the three bowls under the sky’). The speckled ‘yohen’ pattern glitters beautifully, making it seem almost like a lapis lazuli-coloured universe is floating in the small bowl. This mysterious shine is said to have been highly prized by daimyo families, including the Tokugawa shoguns.

GUNJO-NO-MA IN THE SEISONKAKU VILLA

The feudal lord of Kaga, Nariyasu Maeda, built the Seisonkaku villa for his wife in 1863. The ceiling of the room called Gunjo-no-Ma was painted in an ultramarine colour, which was loved by the samurai. At the time, ultramarine pigments were more expensive than gold and only special visitors were allowed entry into this symbol of Nariyasu’s wealth. It was the only building that used ultramarine in the Edo period.

RURI NO TSUKI CUP

GYOSHU HAYAMI’S ‘MT HIEI’

Kept in the Shosoin Hall of Nara Prefecture’s Todaiji Temple, this goblet was allegedly adored by Emperor Shomu who reigned until 749 CE. The impressive treasure, also known as the ‘lapis lazuli miracle’, has a bright sheen that belies its 1,300-year age. The glass sections were created with Persian glass-carving techniques, and the result is a beautiful amalgamation of Eastern and Western cultures.

KO-IMARI PORCELAIN

In the porcelain world, potters who wish to imbue their pieces with wabi-sabi – subdued and refined beauty – consider lapis lazuli as an expression of supreme aesthetic taste. Ko-Imari ware is one vivid form of blue porcelain from the Edo period (1603-1868) and was made in the area now known as Saga Prefecture. Antique lovers are particularly fond of the glaze that’s mixed with cobalt feldspar (ruriyu), which adds a distinct hue that makes it seem as though the bowl itself is shining.

Japanese painter Gyoshu Hayami, who was active from the Taisho period up to the beginning of the Showa period, once proclaimed he had an ‘ultramarine addiction’. Rather than the colour itself, what attracted Gyoshu was the vast potential for ultramarine as a tool in painting. He succeeded in developing techniques that could only be achieved with ultramarine and used these to create his greatest masterpiece, ‘Mt Hiei’.

KAII HIGASHIYAMA’S ‘YUSEIJAKU’

Well-known Japanese painter Kaii Higashiyama, who epitomised the Showa art scene, experimented with blue throughout his career, even making the solemn ‘Higashiyama Blue’ colour his own. His most representative work, ‘Yuseijaku’, which depicts the magnificent Mt Hotaka of the Northern Japanese Alps, displays a daring sense of colour with a white streak crossing a field of ultramarine, effectively tearing up the rulebook on Japanese painting.

KAII HIGASHIYAMA'S 'YUSEIJAKU': COURTESY OF NAGANO PREFECTUAL SHINANO ART MUSEUM HIGASHIYAMA KAII GALLERY

This jewel-like cut glass has been loved by Japanese people for many years and is a traditional form of handicraft featuring lapis lazuli. As skilled craftsmen calculate the refractive index of the light, they carefully cut into the glass to give it its characteristic sparkle, which further accentuates the lapis lazuli. Fine Kiriko works look as if they might break with a simple touch, and are an expression of the Edo-era spirit, which treasures transience. By all accounts, famed gourmand and art critic Rosanjin Kitaoji was utterly spellbound by it.

The modern blue Casio’s innovative new OCEANUS watch draws inspiration from Japan’s love of indigo

eaturing embellishments of blue – a colour that plays a major role in Japan’s traditional understanding of beauty – and employing advanced functionality, the aesthetics of Casio’s OCEANUS watch could be described as ‘blue innovation’. Here, we explore three driving forces behind the timepiece’s originality and cutting-edge qualities.

OCEANUS BLUE

The OCEANUS dial recreates an image of Earth floating in space. The axis ornament at the centre represents the blue of Earth itself, while the blue of the bezel surrounding it represents our planet’s airglow. OCEANUS incorporates innovative technologies to carefully express these delicate, meaningful shades of blue. The blue sapphire used for the ornament has the same composition as a natural gemstone, and the multifaceted cut allows it to achieve a shine full of vitality, like that of Earth itself. Meanwhile, the sapphire glass used in the bezel requires painstaking processes and advanced technology to grind and polish thinly cut sapphire crystal. A blue vapour deposition allows for a transparent finish, recreating the airy glow surrounding Earth. OCEANUS Blue, as Casio has named the watch’s shade of indigo, is made possible through these labour-intensive and highly advanced technologies.

CREATIVE PASSION

Casio always pursues usability and is constantly striving to provide a quality fit when it comes to their high-end products. Their enthusiasm for development is ongoing, allowing OCEANUS to keep evolving beyond the confines of the conventional analogue watch. For example, the GPS Hybrid Wave Ceptor, which receives both positioning satellite signals and standard radio waves, has become one of Casio’s selling points. However, they weren’t satisfied with the Dual Dial World Time function (which utilises the GPS technology to simultaneously display the time in two cities), so they developed the One Push City Switch function. With the simple push of a button, the times displayed on the main dial and inset dial can be switched – extremely convenient for businesspeople who frequently travel abroad. Furthermore, to add an elegant presentation to the watch display, they came up with an original idea to express the movement of the watch hands. By developing a revolutionary Dual Coil Motor, which enables the hands to move at both high and low speeds, they successfully achieved their goal. It’s this kind of dedicated craftsmanship that fosters the innovative quality of OCEANUS.

OCW-G1100-1A ¥230,000 (excl tax)

Visit Casio’s new store Based in Ginza, this shop sells Casio's revolutionary G-SHOCK, OCEANUS and other watches.

MADE IN JAPAN

OCEANUS is manufactured at the Yamagata Casio factory, the brand’s flagship plant and the centre of its creativity. The entire production process, which requires highly advanced equipment, is contained under one roof. By centralising Casio’s core technology, the production of high-performance movements, which is considered the heart of analogue watch-making, can be completed in one place. In addition, the brand’s flagship models, including OCEANUS, are assembled by award-winning technicians. Manufacturing that combines advanced technology with craftsmanship truly is the latest iteration of ‘Made in Japan’.

G-SHOCK STORE GINZA 5F Tokyu Plaza Ginza, 5-2-1 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo

For more information on Casio’s latest timepieces and where to purchase yours, visit casio-intl.com

Eating & Drinking Ultimate udon Slurp noodles on the cheap at the city’s best Kagawa-style udon joints

ARATA Prepare to wait for your bowl at this orthodox udon joint out in Hachioji: the noodles are handmade and boiled to order, making for a supremely firm, chewy texture unrivalled in western Tokyo. Run by a friendly middle-aged couple, Arata is also well known for its excellent tempura, with varieties ranging from chicken to seasonal veg, all freshly fried. Both warm and cold noodle options are available – we recommend going straight for the chilled bukkake udon with tempura, perhaps combined with a side of takikomi gohan (seasoned rice boiled with veg and mushrooms). 10-1 Yokamachi, Hachioji-shi (Hachioji, Keio-Hachioji stations). 042 628 2330. tinyurl.com/TOTarata. 11am-3pm (LO 2.30pm), 5pm-8pm (or until noodles sell out), closed Sun.

KURANOSUKE Employing skills honed in the ‘udon prefecture’ of Kagawa, the staff at this Takadanobaba noodle joint use two kinds of domestic wheat for their dough and form the thick, firm noodles all by hand, every singly day. Both warm and cold broths are available, the two made separately from dried Kagawa sardines and mixed with soy sauce for a strongly aromatic but fresh taste. To start off, go for the simple bukkake udon, served only with spices and broth, before moving on to the Sanuki Tempura, which comes with deep-fried egg, chikuwa fish cake and chicken, or the always popular curry udon. You’ll also want to look out for the seasonal specials. 3-7-15 Takada, Toshima (Takadanobaba Station). 03 3987 9945. tinyurl. com/TOTkuranosuke. Mon 11am-2pm; Tue-Fri 11am-2pm, 5pm-9pm; Sat 11.30am-3pm, 5pm-8pm; closed Sun & hols.

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SHOZAN The decor may be simple, but Shozan’s menu is anything but. Specialising in Sanuki udon (thick, chewy noodles), they offer energyboosting dishes like ‘Bukkake Genki Dama’, which is topped with lots of grated radish, green onions, seaweed, tempura bits and an egg. The thick noodles combined with the anchovy-based iriko broth gives this bowl an excellent flavour. It’s not that easy to find this restaurant, but it’s worth hunting it down to try their seasonal menus. 2-18-4 HigashiYotsugi, Katsushika (Yotsugi Station). 03 3696 5665. tinyurl.com/ TOTshozan. Mon-Sat 11.30am-2.30pm, closed Sun & hols.

IMAGES: YASUHISA SHIMBO

Eating & Drinking

he go-to meal for many a Tokyoite on a limited budget, udon may not have the historical prestige of soba or ramen in the capital, but it has carved out an unshakeable niche for itself since becoming the subject of a shortlived noodle craze in the ’60s. Although varieties abound, the most popular type of udon is now the thick, flat sanuki from Kagawa Prefecture, known as the ‘udon prefecture’ and home to more than 800 eateries exclusively focused on sanuki udon. Consulting a number of Shikoku natives, we scoured the city for the very best Kagawa-style udon joints, eventually narrowing the list down to a few top champions. All of these shops uphold the basic tenets of sanuki udon, although many of them have developed their own recipes on the side, expanding their range of noodle mixtures to fit the wide variety of tastes in Tokyo.

SHIN This little udon shop, with six seats at the counter and just two tables, serves freshly made noodles that go down nice and smooth, plus great side dishes like tempura and deep-fried tofu. At this branch, we recommend ordering the Kashiwaten Zaru Udon (¥950), which arrives with glossy noodles arranged beautifully on the plate and can be upgraded to an extra large portion for free. The gentle-flavoured broth is made with dried bonito shavings and kelp. Enjoy seasonal Japanese sake as an aperitif. 2-20-16 Yoyogi, Shibuya (Shinjuku Station). 03 6276 7816. tinyurl.com/TOTshin. 11am-11pm (LO 10pm), Fri & Sat until 12am (LO 11pm).

ONIYANMA

For our full list of top udon restaurants, go to tinyurl.com/TOTudon15

P this lease pr e mag azin sent e to get all fo od a nd d rink orde rs!

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Eating & Drinking

Get your udon fix early in the morning, really late at night or any time in between at Gotanda’s standing-only shrine to noodles. Found right outside the station, this rough-and-ready joint serves up bowls from as low as ¥300, and attracts queues every lunchtime. Choose a dish and purchase a ticket from the ticket vendor – be aware that this restaurant requires each customer to order at least one dish. Once you get in, it might take a while before you feel comfy hovering around the narrow counter, but any tension is quickly swept away once you get a taste of the firm udon and light, fresh broth. The tempura is always freshly fried, so make sure to order some of the popular chicken variety (toriten) to go with your noodles. 1-63 Nishi-Gotanda, Shinagawa (Gotanda Station). tinyurl.com/ TOToniyanma. Mon-Sat 7am-3am, Sun & hols 7am-12am.

Eating & Drinking

Take to the terraces Spring weather calls for outdoor dining, so we’ve rounded up some of Tokyo’s top open-air restaurants and bars. Words Mayumi Koyama

s every city resident knows, not all terraces are created equal. To make sure you don’t end up in a cramped courtyard or looking at a view of the traffic, we’ve picked out the city’s very best al fresco venues, from fancy dinner spots to laidback rooftop bars and waterfront hangouts. LUNATIQUE TOKIOPLAGE Walk through Futako-Tamagawa’s monstrous new shopping complex and head east to find this lone four-storey house beside the Tama River. The third and fourth floors of the restaurant have terrace seating with nice views of the gently flowing river and the passing Denentoshi line. Service is kept to a minimum here: buy food tickets at the groundfloor kitchen and the staff will call you on wireless when your grub is ready for pick-up. Nevertheless, the French-tinged offerings maintain surprisingly high quality. The out-of-the-way location ensures tranquility, and rooftop barbecue is available during the summer months. 1-1-4 Tamagawa, Setagaya (Futako-Tamagawa Station). 03 3708 1118. tinyurl. com/TOTlunatique. Mon-Sat 11am-11pm (LO 10pm), Sun & hols until 10pm (LO 9pm).

From top: Jinnanken, Lunatique Tokioplage, The Deck Coffee & Pie

JINNANKEN The wealth of nearby attractions include Parco, Loft and the recently opened Onitsuka Tiger shop, so you might be forgiven for overlooking this stylish rooftop restaurant in the building next to Shibuya’s Modi. Serving up a mixture of traditional Japanese cuisine and Japanised ‘Western’ grub, Jinnanken is also known for its beer garden which opens on its rooftop terrace during summer. Private rooms are available on request. 8-9F Navi Shibuya, 1-20-5 Jinnan, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 5784 4455. tinyurl.com/TOTjinnanken. Daily

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11.30am-3pm (LO 2.30pm; on hols open until 3.30pm, LO 3pm), 6pm-11.30pm (LO for food 10.30pm, LO for drinks 11pm). THE DECK COFFEE & PIE Walk a few blocks north from Harajuku’s busy Takeshita-dori and you’ll spot this little wooden café on a calm back street. As the name suggests, house-roasted Joe and homemade pies are the main attractions here, although the country music also deserves a mention. The coffee beans are imported from major production regions like Ethiopia and Indonesia and can be bought separately as well, while the pies range from apple crumble to cream cheese and cherry crumble, with seasonal specials, Danish pastries, soft serve ice cream and more. Hungrier patrons can go for the big and juicy hamburg steak and a glass of Carlsberg. 3-53-17 Sendagaya, Shibuya (Kitasando Station). 03 3478 6855. tinyurl.com/TOTdeck. MonFri 10am-10pm, Sat & Sun 10am-7pm. HACIENDA DEL CIELO MODERN MEXICANO Get Mexican food with added buzz at this hip ninth-floor eatery in central Daikanyama. A far cry from the kitsch decor you’ll find at countless other Mexican joints around town, Hacienda del Cielo is suitably named – ‘place in the sky’ – as it’s all lofty ceilings, lounge-style seating and tall windows with views, with a central chandelier modelled on the Mayan snake deity Kukulkan (no, really). If the restaurant area is full, you can always eat at the bar instead, and the action spills out onto a spacious rooftop terrace when the weather’s good. The food menu sticks mainly to familiar staples such as tacos, fajitas and arroz a la mexicana, all of which appear on ¥1,000 weekday set lunches. If you’re here in the

Left to right: Hacienda del Cielo Modern Mexicano, Nirvana New York, Le Jardin de Tweed

evenings, enjoy imported Mexican beer, frozen margaritas or a chilli-laced Cajun martini. 9F Mansard Daikanyama, 10-1 Sarugakucho, Shibuya (Daikanyama Station). 03 5457 1521. tinyurl.com/ TOThacienda. Mon-Sat 11.30am-3am, Sun & hols 11.30am-11pm.

dinner: Mon-Sat 5pm-12am (LO 10pm), Sun & hols 5pm-11pm (LO 10pm). LE JARDIN DE TWEED Situated on the rooftop of Ginza’s Chanel building, Le Jardin de Tweed is a gorgeous terrace café with table and sofa seating. Enjoy café-style food, aperitifs and a range of other goodies under the large parasols. In summertime, sip on a glass of champagne or wine and watch as the sun sinks, handing the sky over to the city lights. The menu comes courtesy of the chef at neighbouring Beige Alain Ducasse Tokyo – including the fancy but light Ginza Box (¥3,000). Top floor of Chanel Ginza Bldg, 3-5-3 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza, Ginza-Itchome stations). 03 5159 5500. tinyurl.com/TOTjardin. Wed-Sun 11.30am-3pm (LO), 5.30pm-8.30pm (LO), closed Mon & Tue.

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Eating & Drinking

NIRVANA NEW YORK The bland uniformity of your average Indian eatery menu is swiftly forgotten at Nirvana New York, the reincarnation of a well-regarded restaurant that started life in 1970 in Central Park South, Manhattan. Under the eye of Warren Wadud, the son of the original founder, Nirvana serves up Indian cuisine that’s as inspired as it is wallet-busting. With its chic design and brightly patterned furniture, the indoor dining room is appealing enough, but when the weather’s

good it’s hard to resist the temptation of the outdoor terrace, which includes sofa seats that are ideal for lounging. Dinner courses start at ¥8,250, but the lunchtime buffet presents a more affordable alternative: ¥2,100 gets you a selection of curries, salads, hot and cold appetisers and desserts, with naan brought fresh to the table. Surprisingly, perhaps, the curries aren’t the highlight: we’re more enthused by the marinated and pickled vegetables – an explosion of unfamiliar tastes and textures – and the devilishly good garam masala potatoes. It’s enough to turn even the more abstemious diner into an unabashed glutton. 1F Garden Terrace, Tokyo Midtown, 9-7-4 Akasaka, Minato (Roppongi, Nogizaka stations). 03 5647 8305. tinyurl.com/ TOTnirvana. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11am-3.30pm (LO 2.30pm), Sat, Sun & hols 11am-4pm (LO 3pm);

Eating & Drinking

HYBRID HYPE If you were impressed by the Cronut, just wait till you try these cross-bred Japanese sweets. Words Youka Nagase

TAIYAKI, MELONPAN, SHIRUKO: KISA TOYOSHIMA; AN-DOUGHNUT, AGEPAN FRITTER: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Forget the croissant-doughnut – it’s time to move on to the croissant-taiyaki. Taiyaki is a traditional Japanese fish-shaped cake that’s usually filled with red bean paste, but this version by Gindaco adds buttery puff pastry to give it that croissant-like texture. They also offer different fillings such as custard cream and a seasonal strawberry custard flavour. One side of the fish is coated with caramelised and crystallised sugar, giving it an irresistible crunchy outer layer. Visit their Ebisu location if you’re keen to try their triple hybrid: taiyaki croissant ice cream! 1-7-5 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 03 5428 6152. croissant-taiyaki.com. 10am-10pm.

AN-DOUGHNUT

This is no ordinary anpan (bread filled with red bean paste). It’s a doughnut made from naan bread, caked in panko (Japanese-style breadcrumbs) and baked in a special oven that apparently makes it healthier. Akarimado says their most popular flavour is the red bean paste with mochi-shaped mozzarella, but you should also try the ramune (Japanese soda)-flavoured bean paste. 5F Shibuya Modi, 1-21-3 Jinnan, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 4336 8251. atticroom.jp/akarimado-shibuya. 11am-11pm.

FRENCH TOAST FRITTER

Agepan (deep-fried bread) is a staple item in a typical Japanese school lunch, but R-Fritters has elevated it to new levels by making a French toast version. Their rice flour bread is soaked in flavoured egg batter, then deep-fried in rice oil until golden. The inside is chewy and bursting with flavour. Try the green tea flavour paired with their Ogawa coffee, which they grind from beans and brew to order. 2-33-10 Kitazawa, Setagaya (Shimokitazawa Station). 03 5738 8582. r-fritters.com. 11am-6pm.

MELONPAN ICE

Two years of research to create the perfect melonpan (a type of Japanese sweet bread) has resulted in the launch of Sekai de Niban-me ni Oishii Melonpan (‘The World’s Second Best Melon Bread’). This store’s hybrid treat has a crispy bun with ice cream inside. Might as well call it ‘the world’s best melon bread’, but the owner insists his teacher makes the best. Iwase Bldg, 1-15-9 Jinnan, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). melonpan-ice.com. 11am-10pm.

SHIRUKO FROMAGE

Usagiya Café has added a French twist to this classic shiruko (red bean soup) dessert, mixing it with rich cheese. Put a dollop of shiruko fromage on the side of thin monaka wafers and you have the perfect Asian-meets-Western dessert. The hybrid was inspired by the Brazilian trend of combining goiabada (guava jelly) and cheese, and has become one of Usagiya’s most popular items. 1-17-5 Ueno, Taito (Ueno-Hirokoji and Yushima stations). 03 6240 1561. 9am-6pm, closed Wed.

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Eating & Drinking

CROISSANT TAIYAKI

ED’S PICK

Shopping & Style

new season calls for new sneakers, and this staple item is all the rage these days. Some blame it on ‘normcore’, the bland, anti-trend movement that channels fashion fatigue. But, far from being dull and unfashionable, trainers have been reinvented in the past few years and Tokyoites are sporting them in every hue. Ditch the heels and find some new kicks in Tokyo’s best sneaker shops. STREAMER ESPRESSO ATMOS This stylish space combines two of the most coveted things in Tokyo, sneakers and coffee – and not just any bland cup of Joe. This latest addition to the Streamers family has opened underneath a branch of the popular shoe store Atmos in the midst of Harajuku, in the form of a sneaker gallery. Their motto, ‘Drink coffee while admiring shoes’ is the straightforward concept of this store. Rare models and limitededition creations are for sale in the wooden gallery, alongside champion barista Hiroshi Sawada’s delectable coffee menu, which features location-exclusive vanilla and chai latte smoothies. In addition to the walls of shoes, you can also browse a selection of books and snap up some collectible Be@rbricks toys to match your new kicks. B1F, 3-22-8 Jingumae, Shibuya (Meiji-Jingumae Station). 03 6804 2274. tinyurl.com/ TOTstreamer REEBOK CLASSIC STORE HARAJUKU No longer associated with leotardclad aerobic and jazzercise enthusiasts, Reeboks are now synonymous with hipsters and frequently appear in street style snapshots – which is perfectly

fitting with their latest Cat Street storefront, opened last summer. The fitness brand has made a huge comeback in the past few years, and this particular branch promotes the brand’s casual line, Reebok Classic. Get ready for ’80s and ’90s flashbacks with models like the re-released Instapump Fury, with its pump technology and collaborative designs, or the revived Freestyle, combining laces and two velcro straps at the ankle. If you really want to go retro, pick up a pair of the timeless Classic Leather, released in 1983 and showing no signs of ageing. ME Bldg, 6-14-7 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku Station). tinyurl. com/TOTreebok WHITE ATELIER BY CONVERSE While you’ve probably owned Converse in all shades of the rainbow throughout the years, have you ever designed your own? Create a personalised All Star design at this Japan-exclusive (of course) White Atelier by Converse. While the American brand doesn’t actually have a flagship store in Japan, the must-have sneaker is ubiquitous in the streets of Tokyo, and this is the place to hit if you’re looking for something unique. The sleek, minimalist first floor of this Harajuku space presents Japanlimited items, but all the magic takes place downstairs, in the atelier. Here, you can customise your All Stars – simply pick out your canvas and go bananas with laces and accessories. Keep an eye out for occasional workshops with local and international creative minds. Holon-III B1F & 1F, 6-16-5 Jingumae, Shibuya (Meiji-Jingumae Station). 03 5778 4170. tinyurl.com/TOTwhiteatelier

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Where to find the most covetable trainers in Tokyo. Words Vivian Morelli

GET YOUR From top left: Streamer Espresso Atmos, Reebok Classic Store Harajuku, White Atelier by Converse

UR KICKS

KICKS LAB Opened in 2008 by a group of sporty-shoe aficionados, the lightfilled shop houses limited-edition

PISTACCHIO DAIKANYAMA Don’t be fooled by its size: Pistacchio Daikanyama may be tiny, but its modern interior is filled with a wide range of sneakers, from classic to the latest trends. Located mere steps from Daikanyama Station, the store’s blue exterior is reminiscent of a Parisian bakery, and the narrow wood and brick-walled boutique houses brands such as Nike limitededition goods, New Balance and Adidas. Lacoste, Patrick, Hunter rain boots and Sorel snow boots are also available in store or via their online shop. Follow the shop’s Instagram account for inspiration and to see shoes photographed in their natural habitat. 19-11 Daikanyamacho, Shibuya (Daikanyama Station). 03 3770 5550. www.pistacchio.jp

Discover more of Japan with UnionPay http://unionpay-premium.com/ This campaign is aimed at UnionPay Platinum and Diamond cardholders

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Shopping & Style

ONITSUKA TIGER Founded in 1949 by Kihachiro Onitsuka, Onitsuka Tiger is one of the top shoe companies in Japan and the forerunner of Asics. With storefronts in all the trendiest districts of Tokyo, you would be surprised to know that their first trainers were basketball shoes. After being reborn as a fashion brand back in 2002, Onitsuka is still thriving. The sneakers have a vintage vibe, and the iconic Mexico 66 model is the most popular shoe of the collection. Make sure to stop by the Omotesando shop to admire the black woodgrain tigerstriped exterior, east-meets-west slick interior and to appreciate the quality and craftsmanship of the footwear. 4-24-14 Jingumae, Shibuya (Meiji-Jingumae Station). 03 3405 6671. onitsukatiger.com

models and collections only released in Japan. If you’re in the market for a rare item, check out collaborations such as the bright Taro Yamada-covered Converse x Chinyuki, a popular Japanese anime from the ’90s, and tri-coloured trainers from French sportswear brand Le Coq Sportif with Tokyobased Mita sneakers. While you’re there, stock up on shoe-care goods from Jason Markk, and ‘Sneaker Freaker’ magazine. HTS Bldg, 4-32-5 Jingumae, Shibuya (Meiji-Jingumae Station). 03 6459 2124. store. kickslab.com

y a d t e k r a m s ’ It

Shopping & Style

Pick up a few choice bargains, hunt for prized antiques, and taste organic farmers’ produce at Tokyo’s top fairs

Shopping & Style

elling everything from secondhand furniture and clothing to rare collectibles and artisanal cuisine, Tokyo’s numerous markets open up a world of bargains and treasures. You might come across an exquisite Japanese tea set for only ¥1,000 or vintage European jewellery for a steal. If you enjoy a good haggle, then it’s best to visit in the early morning or towards the end of the day. Here are ten of the best…

OI RACECOURSE FLEA MARKET This flea market takes place almost every weekend at the Oi Racecourse, and usually attracts around 300 sellers. Many of the vendors do this as a living, so the available wares range from the tiny to the large, from daily necessities to rare collector’s items. Do note that the market will be cancelled in the case of rain. 2-1-2 Katsushima, Shinagawa (Oi Keibajomae Station). tinyurl.com/ TOToiflea. Every Sat & Sun 9am-3pm.

AKASAKA ANTIQUE MARKET IN ARK HILLS Far from a shabby yard sale, the Ark Hills flea market is more like an upscale alternative to Tokyo’s many smaller craft fairs. Setting up shop next to private antique dealers are trendy clothing brands, giving you the opportunity to upgrade your style before digging for everything from furniture to jewellery. Shoppers can also fill up with grub from the food trucks that often park at the premises. 1-12-32 Akasaka, Minato (Roppongi-Itchome Station). tinyurl.com/TOTakasakaflea. Fourth Sunday of every month, 11am-5pm.

UNITED NATIONS UNIVERSITY FARMERS’ MARKET The UNU farmers’ market is one of Tokyo’s longest running and best-attended markets. Taking place every weekend in front of the university’s Aoyama headquarters, this one always attracts a knowledgeable crowd. Organic and local fare is readily available, with the farmers themselves

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happy to provide details about their wares. 5-5370 Jingumae, Shibuya (Omotesando, Shibuya stations). tinyurl.com/TOTunu. Every Sat & Sun 10am-4pm. SETAGAYA BOROICHI Around 700 stalls line the street during the annual Setagaya Boroichi, a venerable flea market that’s been going on for more than 400 years now. Held twice a year – on December 15-16, and again on January 15-16 – the event attracts tens of thousands of visitors, making it one of the highlights on Setagaya’s yearly calendar. The main area of the market is along Boroichi-dori, a street that centres on the Setagaya Daikan Yashiki, the old, thatched-roof local magistrate’s residence. Boroichi-dori, around 1-chome Setagaya, Setagaya (Kamimachi Station). tinyurl.com/ TOTsetagayaflea. December 15-16, January 15-16, 9am-8pm.

OEDO ANTIQUE MARKET Taking place once a month, this market is great for picking up some cool art, unique handicrafts or time-worn decorative items. Keep an eye out for real Edo-era treasures hidden among the heaps of merchandise, which ranges from ceramics and clothing to ukiyo-e prints. Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya (Harajuku, Yoyogi-Koen, Yoyogi-Hachiman stations). tinyurl.com/TOToedoflea. Once a month (no set dates), 8am-4pm.

stalls, live music and workshops, and the Tokyo Nordic Market is usually on at the same time, giving you even more browsing opportunities. 4-31-1 Tamagawa, Chofu (Keio-Tamagawa Station). tinyurl.com/TOTnominoichi. May 14, 10am-6pm; May 15, 9am-5pm.

TOKYO NOMI NO ICHI ANTIQUE MARKET Featuring over 200 stalls of antique goods, this is one of the biggest annual flea markets in town. Whether you’re hunting for unique furniture, books, fabric, tableware or cameras, you’re sure to find something here. They also have a café, bakery

BEST FLEA MARKET Once a month, Tokyo International Forum holds this flea market on the ground floor plaza, featuring around 200 stalls. There are all sorts of creatives offering their products here, so you could end up finding expertly made ceramics or a more

Keep an eye out for real Edo-era treasures

budget-friendly, quirky handmade item. Either way, if you see something you like, you should snap it up because it most likely won’t be on sale at the next market. Since it’s located between Tokyo and Yurakucho stations, it attracts large crowds of both young and older shoppers. Note that it may be cancelled due to the weather. 3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda (Yurakucho Station). tinyurl. com/TOTbestflea. The second Monday of every month, from 10am. HILLS MARCHE FARMERS’ MARKET Held every Saturday, this is one of the top places in Tokyo to pick up organic vegetables and fruits, freshly baked bread, and a variety of cheese and wine. Chefs from nearby restaurants often come by to hold lessons using ingredients sold at the market, so you can pick up cooking tips and then pick up the produce you need straight afterwards. 1-12-32 Akasaka, Minato (Roppongi-Itchome Station). tinyurl.com/TOThillsfarmers. Every Saturday, from 10am-2pm. EARTH DAY MARKET If one of your New Year’s resolutions was to eat more greens, this might be a good place to start. Held once a month in Yoyogi Park, the Earth Day Market gives a chance to organic farmers and fair trade manufacturers to sell some of their produce, while also finding space for artisans, recycling initiatives, NPOs/NGOs and more. Yoyogi Park, Keyaki-namiki, 2-1 Jinnan, Shibuya (Harajuku, Yoyogi-Koen, Yoyogi-Hachiman stations). tinyurl. com/TOTearthdaymarket. April 3, May 29, June 26, from 10am-4pm.

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Shopping & Style

NOGI SHRINE ANTIQUE FLEA MARKET The popular crafts market at Nogizaka’s Nogi Shrine was revived as the Antique Flea Market in 2014, with the relatively small-scale but always fun and interesting fair now taking place on the fourth Sunday of every month. Held on the shrine’s ‘sando’ (approaching path), the market features sellers of everything from secondhand clothing to furniture and cooking utensils, while tasty snacks are of course also available. Note that the event will be cancelled in case of rain. 8-11-27 Akasaka, Minato (Nogizaka, Roppongi stations). tinyurl. com/TOTnogiflea. Fourth Sunday of every month, 9am-evening.

Art & Culture

FOUR REASONS TO VISIT THE SETOUCHI TRIENNALE 2016 Here’s why combining island hopping with open-air art viewing should be on your list of things to do this year. Words Casey Hawkins

Enjoy 30-plus outdoor exhibitions during your preferred season The Setouchi Triennale is a largescale art festival held on 12 small islands in the Seto Inland Sea, ten of which feature outdoor exhibitions. Since the triennale runs for 108 days between March and November, contemporary art fanatics will want to take advantage of the ‘3-season passport’ ticket, which encourages you to go back and visit during each season. So you can pose for a photo with the likes of Yayoi Kusama’s ‘Red Pumpkin’ under the sweltering summer sun and then again in the cool autumn breeze.

Some galleries are more like a sci-fi film set The architecture of Teshima Art Museum generates an eerie yet calming atmosphere. While at Chichu Art Museum, the cold industrial materials that constitute the minimalist structures make you

feel as though you’ve been dropped into a maze. The layout and finishes throughout the exhibition space are flawless – leading visitors to question whether they are still on planet Earth. Your senses are in for an astonishing treat that promotes illusion and disorientation as you wander amongst others in dead silence.

You can play with the exhibitions There are a number of playful interactive displays both inside galleries and out in the middle of obscurity. One piece titled ‘No One Wins – Multibasket’ leaves patrons to initiate participation and determine the artist’s intention. Balls lie scattered around the dusty lot for people to retrieve and show off their basketball prowess. As many of these artworks are off the beaten track, we recommend renting an electric bicycle. There are payby-the-hour rental stores operating

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Yayoi Kusama’s ‘Red Pumpkin’

close to the ports of major islands. With Teshima’s steep hills and lower slopes dotted with rice paddies, you’d be crazy not to take advantage of the zippy bikes on offer.

Become an intimate piece of contemporary art ‘Les Archives du Coeur’ (The Heart Archive) by Christian Boltanski collects the heartbeats of exhibit goers from around the world. For a small fee, you can have your heartbeat and personal message recorded and then browsed by others; with the potential to one day feature in the Heart Room. The Heart Room provides a mesmeric, perhaps disturbing experience, pairing a flashing light with the powerful sound of a pulsating heartbeat. The heart’s owner is listed on a small screen situated at the entrance. Upon exiting the Heart Room, you can wander through to the Listening Room, where you can sit at the clerical desk and scroll through the playlist of archived heartbeats.

EXHIBITION INFO When: Mar 20-Apr 17 (spring), Jul 18-Sep 4 (summer), Oct 8-Nov 6 (autumn) Tickets: The 3-season passport can be purchased at convenience stores and selected airports/train stations for ¥5,000. It allows you one entry into most galleries during each season. Opening hours: Most galleries are open from 10am-4.30pm, however do check the website as some are by appointment only and closing days vary. How to get there: Take the shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Okayama Station (3.5 hours). Catch a local train to Uno Port or to Takamatsu Port then hop on a ferry to the islands. Ferry services run several times daily and cost ¥560 one way. setouchi-artfest.jp/en

IF YOU ONLY VISIT ONE ISLAND…

Five must-see exhibits on Naoshima, Japan’s renowned art island

NAOSHIMA BATH “I ❤湯” BY SHINRO OHTAKE, PHOTO BY OSAMU WATANABE

ART HOUSE PROJECT, ‘ISHIBASHI’ HIROSHI SENJU, ‘THE GARDEN OF KU’, PHOTO BY OSAMU WATANABE

Perhaps the most famous of the 12 islands, Naoshima started being referred to as an ‘art island’ in the early ’90s, after notable artists were commissioned to produce large-scale works to revitalise the island and form Benesse Art Site Naoshima. Here are our top recommendations:

Art House Project

Sculptures are inconspicuously dotted all over the island – some are harder to spot than others, creating a kind of natural treasure hunt in a memorable setting.

Benesse House Museum

The granddaddy of Naoshima invites guests to let the ‘unique atmosphere’ seep into their skin by sleeping at one of their four boutique lodgings. Alternatively, work up an appetite by perusing the largest collection of paintings, sculptures and photography before heading to the on-site restaurant and café.

Naoshima Bath ‘I ❤ 湯 (I Love YU)’

When gallery hours draw to a close, there’s nothing more appealing than a late-night sento. Just don’t expect to bathe under dim light, as even the bathhouse doubles as a gallery – featuring embellished faucet knobs and scrapbook-style photos.

Chichu Art Museum

The expansive concrete structures look alien, peeping out from a luscious green hill. Yet Tadao Ando’s minimalist architecture, which is famous for artfully utilising the best elements of nature, still manages to achieve harmony. Visitors can appreciate the works of Claude Monet, Walter De Maria and James Turrell.

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Art & Culture

While the project is comprised of seven distinctive Edo-period dwellings restored into artworks, you must make seeing ‘Haisha’ and ‘Ishibashi’ a priority. ‘The Garden of Ku’ in Ishibashi incorporates 14 traditional sliding paper panels (‘fusuma’) with brilliant transformative qualities.

The open-air exhibitions

Essential exhibitions entry 30 minutes before closing), Fri until 8pm, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a hol), except April 4 and May 2. ‘Zakka: Goods and Things’ 21_21 Design Sight, until Jun 5 Various forms of zakka will be on display here. The word ‘zakka’ describes the kind of items that surround us in our living spaces but that defy any particular description, thereby creating their own genre, which also incorporates different cultural aspects. This exhibition takes you into the world of Japanese zakka culture, bringing you uniquely designed goods by a range of artists. 9-7-6 Akasaka, Minato. 03 3475 2121. tinyurl.com/TOTzakka. 10am-7pm (last entry 6.30pm), closed Tue.

‘ZAKKA: GOODS AND THINGS’: MATSUNOYA SUNDRIES PEDDLER MATSUNOYA + NORIHIKO TERAYAMA (STUDIO NOTE), PHOTO: SOHEI OYA/NACASA & PARTNERS

‘MOMAT Collection, Special Feature: Spring in Full Bloom: A Nihon-ga Festival’ The National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo, until May 15 Picking out some special treats from its plentiful permanent collection to celebrate the onset of spring, the National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo displays sakurathemed art like Kawai Gyokudo’s folding-screen masterpiece ‘Parting Spring’, and rarities such as Hishida Shunso’s ‘Wang Zhaojun (The Chinese Princess)’ at this seasonal exhibition. A visit here is best combined with blossom-viewing at the nearby Chidorigafuchi Ryokudo promenade. 3-1 Kitanomarukoen, Chiyoda. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl. com/TOTmomat. 10am-5pm (last

‘Miyake Issey Exhibition: The Work of Miyake Issey’ The National Art Center, Tokyo (NACT), until Jun 13 Along with Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, Issey Miyake is one of the big three designers who transformed Japanese fashion back in the late 1980s. His legacy, however, reaches back even further than that: having established his own design studio in 1970, Miyake has explored innovative methods and technologies for making clothing ever since. Explore his ground-breaking work and understand his creative process at the National Art Center, Tokyo’s spring retrospective, which comes complete with visuals designed by Taku Satoh and ‘grid-body’ installation by Miyake apprentice Tokujin Yoshioka. 7-22-2 Roppongi, Minato. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/TOTisseymiyake. 10am-6pm, Fri 10am-8pm (last entry 30 minutes before closing), closed Tue except May 3. ‘Katana – A Millennium of Swordsmith Mastery’ Tokyo Fuji Art Museum, until Jul 3 Step into the world of katana – traditionally made Japanese swords – and learn about Japan’s

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‘KATANA – A MILLENNIUM OF SWORDSMITH MASTERY’: IMPORTANT CULTURAL PROPERTY, TAICHI, SIGNED ICHI (FUKUOKA-ICHIMONJI), PROVINCE BIZEN, MID-KAMAKURA PERIOD, TOKYO FUJI ART MUSEUM

Art & Culture

Explore the legacy of Issey Miyake, Japan’s traditional ‘katana’ swords and images by ‘the most important photographer in America’

samurai sword culture. Tokyo Fuji Art Museum shows off 40 fine sword masterpieces from the Heian period, three of which are recognised as Important Cultural Assets. You’ll also see ancient battle gear, body armour, picture scrolls and woodblock prints. 492-1 Yanomachi, Hachioji. 042 691 4511. tinyurl.com/TOTkatana. 10am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm), ‘THE EXHIBITION OF PRETTY GUARDIAN SAILOR MOON’: © NAOKO TAKEUCHI

'MIYAKE ISSEY EXHIBITION: THE WORK OF MIYAKE ISSEY': L: 132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE, No.1 DRESS, No.1 JACKET, 2010, PHOTO: HIROSHI IWASAKI. R: 132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE, No.1 DRESS, 2010, PHOTO: HIROSHI IWASAKI

'MOMAT COLLECTION, SPECIAL FEATURE: SPRING IN FULL BLOOM’: KAWAI GYOKUDO, PARTING SPRING, 1916, A PAIR OF SIX-FOLD SCREENS, IMPORTANT CULTURAL PROPERTY

Art & Culture

closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a hol). ‘The Exhibition of Pretty Guardian Sailor Moon’ Tokyo City View, Apr 16-Jun 19 Naoko Takeuchi’s teenage girlturned-legendary warrior story is credited with reviving the fortunes of an entire manga genre and has continued to inspire new generations of fans – many of them not even born when the original Sailor Moon series came to an end in 1997. Held fittingly close to Azabu-Juban – where the story takes place – this much-hyped exhibition takes over Tokyo City View at Roppongi Hills in late spring, and features a drool-inducing collection of original manga prints, materials from the anime series, rare character merchandise and an entrance modelled on the Moon Castle. Ready to transform? 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato. 03 6406 6652. tinyurl.com/ TOTsailormoon. 10am-10pm (last entry 9.30pm).

‘THE HARA YASUSABURO COLLECTION: HIROSHIGE VIVID’: ‘MANNENBASHI BRIDGE AT FUKAGAWA’, FROM THE SERIES ‘ONE HUNDRED FAMOUS VIEWS OF EDO’ BY UTAGAWA HIROSHIGE, THE HARA YASUSABURO COLLECTION ‘RYAN MCGINLEY: BODY LOUD’: TAYLOR (BLACK & BLUE) 2012 © RYAN MCGINLEY

‘HARUKI MURAKAMI AND ILLUSTRATORS – MAKI SASAKI, AYUMI OHASHI, MAKOTO WADA AND MIZUMARU ANZAI’: HARUKI MURAKAMI (TEXT), MAKOTO WADA (ILLUSTRATIONS), FROM POTOREITO IN JAZU (PORTRAIT IN JAZZ), SHINCHOSHA, 1999

‘KITAOJI ROSANJIN: A REVOLUTIONARY IN THE ART OF JAPANESE CUISINE’: COVERED LACQUER BOWLS WITH SUN AND MOON DESIGN 1943 LACQUER (SET OF 10) H10.6×12.9 (EACH) PRIVATE COLLECTION

‘Ryan McGinley Body Loud’ Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery, Apr 16-Jul 10 NYC-based photo prodigy Ryan

McGinley has exhibited in Tokyo several times over the years, but that was before ‘GQ’ crowned him the ‘most important photographer in America’. Check out if his work merits that title at the Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery, where around 50 shots from McGinley’s series ‘Body Loud’ are on display. 3-20-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 5353 0756. tinyurl.com/TOTbodyloud. 11am-7pm, Fri & Sat 11am-8pm, closed Mon (except May 2).

during the exhibition period. 3F Tokyo Midtown Galleria, 9-7-4 Akasaka, Minato. 03 3479 8600. tinyurl.com/ TOThiroshige-vivid. 10am-6pm, Fri & Sat 10am-8pm, closed Tue (except May 3 & Jun 7).

Art & Culture

‘Kitaoji Rosanjin: A Revolutionary in the Art of Japanese Cuisine’ Mitsui Memorial Museum, Apr 12-Jun 26 Celebrating washoku’s Intangible Cultural Heritage status, awarded by UNESCO back in 2014, the Mitsui Memorial Museum now shines the spotlight on Rosanjin Kitaoji (18831959); artist, sculptor, calligrapher and one of the greatest gourmet critics and restaurateurs of his generation. Focusing on Rosanjin’s ceramics, an art form the culinary pioneer considered an integral part of traditional Japanese cuisine, the display also introduces visitors to the writings and philosophy of a man whose influence on modern washoku and the culture surrounding it has come to be appreciated anew in recent years. 7F Mitsui Main Bldg, 2-1-1 NihonbashiMuromachi, Chuo. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/TOTwashokugenius. 10am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm), closed Mon.

‘The Hara Yasusaburo Collection: Hiroshige Vivid’ Suntory Museum of Art, Apr 29-Jun 12 Business magnate Yasusaburo Hara (1884-1982) left behind an enviable private collection of ukiyo-e masterpieces, many of which have only started making their way into public exhibitions over the past decade. This spring special at the Suntory Museum presents two of the Hara trove’s finest specimens: Utagawa Hiroshige’s complete ‘One Hundred Famous Views of Edo’ and ‘Famous Views of the Sixty-odd Provinces’ series. The prints are displayed accompanied by photos documenting the current state of the locations depicted by Hiroshige, making for a unique opportunity to dive into Edo-Tokyo’s past and present. And as if that wasn’t enough, the exhibition also includes Hokusai’s rare ‘Oceans of Wisdom’ series, centred on fishing, whaling and seaside views from the 1830s. Ukiyo-e nerds are in for a real treat. Note that some of the pieces on display will be alternated

‘Haruki Murakami and Illustrators – Maki Sasaki, Ayumi Ohashi, Makoto Wada, and Mizumaru Anzai’ Chihiro Art Museum Tokyo, May 25-Aug 7 Haruki Murakami is one of Japan’s best-known contemporary authors. In addition to novels, he has penned essays and picture books in collaboration with illustrators such as Maki Sasaki, Ayumi Ohashi, Makoto Wada and Mizumaru Anzai. Featuring works from these collaborations, this exhibition will focus on the harmonious relationship between Murakami’s prose and the accompanying illustrations. 4-7-2 Shimoshakujii, Nerima. 03 3995 0612. tinyurl.com/ TOTharuki. 10am-5pm, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a hol). For more exhibitions, culture features and artist interviews, go to timeout.com/tokyo

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Music

COMEBACK

KEIJI’S

ack in the ’80s, Keiji Yamagishi established himself as one of the pioneers of early video game music (VGM), composing prolifically for the company Tecmo. As a composer working on games for the Nintendo Entertainment System (NES), he made revered soundtracks for ‘Ninja Gaiden’ (1988) and the ‘Captain Tsubasa’ series (1988-1992). At a time of 8-bit audio and cartridgebased games, he faced daunting technological challenges that would make most modern composers run a mile. But he responded innovatively, designing his very own NES audio driver and also sampling real audio (into 8-bit!) to create new lo-fi sounds to work with. Now, after taking a lengthy hiatus from music, Yamagishi is back on the scene thanks to a blossoming global fanbase and the renaissance of chiptune music. He’s working with VGM label Brave Wave alongside the likes of Yoko Shimomura (‘Kingdom Hearts’) and Manami Matsumae (‘Mega Man’). We caught up with him fresh off the release of his second solo album, ‘Retro-Active Pt. 2’, which is the perfect soundtrack for overcoming those residual winter blues.

What was the first soundtrack you ever made? What unique challenges did you face? The first soundtrack I ever directed was ‘Tsuppari Ozumo (Shoving Sumo)’ by Tecmo. I had only just joined the company and initially they hadn’t planned for me to direct it. However, for various reasons, it suddenly fell into my lap. I still didn’t really know much about making game soundtracks at that time, so I just tried to make music that would make the game more fun to play. I remember finding it difficult to imagine what kind of music would suit a sumo game. I eventually settled on a comical, Japanese style and I’m pretty happy with the way it turned out.

My absolute favourite artist is Prince

From ’80s Nintendo legend to contemporary chiptune composer, Keiji Yamagishi is back in the music game. Interview George Art Baker

54 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Who were your heroes when you started out as a composer? My absolute favourite artist is Prince. The songs, the performance, the dancing, in every aspect I think he’s a genius. As a composer, I’ve always liked Brian Wilson of the Beach Boys, his melodies are wonderful.

Retro-Active Pt. 2 was released in February 2016 and is available at store.bravewave. net/album/retroactive-pt-2

How did working with Brave Wave on the ‘Retro-Active’ trilogy come about? One day I suddenly received a Facebook message from Mohammed Taher, the founder of Brave Wave, saying, ‘I’m a big fan of your work.’ It all started from there. At the time I never thought that Brave Wave would turn into a fullblown record label. Their success is driven by Mohammed’s love of music and his respect for the artists. I owe him a lot. If it hadn’t been for him, I never would have thought of making music again.

KEIJI'S PORTRAIT: MASASHI KAGEYAMA

Have you had to change the way you work over the years? I don’t feel that I’ve changed too much, but due to the evolution of music software, there is so much more I can explore by myself these days, so composing takes longer than it used to. Things were more limited back in the ’80s; now we have MIDI sequencers and a lot more memory to work with. Because the technology is more complex now, I spend more time mixing and being creative with the arrangements.

Is there a track on ‘Retro-active Pt. 2’ that really stands out for you? Personally, I like ‘Total Escape’, my collaboration with Ryuichi Nitta. Making a collaborative work with other composers is always challenging, but when it goes well it’s really fun. You’ve sometimes written under an alias. Could you shed a little light on that? Yes, at college I had the nickname ‘More Yamasan’, so I used that name for Tecmo’s NES release ‘Ninja Gaiden’. I’m also a big American football fan, so for ‘Tecmo Bowl’, I used the name ‘K.Y. Jet’ to express my fondness for the New York Jets. What’s rocking your iPod at the moment? In terms of Japanese artists, Perfume. I love them. As for overseas artists, I’ve been listening a lot to the new Tame Impala album and Tracey Thorn’s ‘Solo: Songs And Collaborations 1982-2015’.

Do you have much correspondence with fans from other countries? Yes, almost 100 percent of my fans are from overseas. Even today, I’m completely unknown in Japan. [Laughs] Your music seems very energetic and positive. What inspires you to make this kind of sound? That’s a good question. I’m better at making these kinds of songs, but I’m not sure why really... I suppose I’m just naturally upbeat, as a person!

Yamagishi composed the soundtrack for Tecmo’s classic game ‘Ninja Gaiden’ For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 55

Music

'Almost 100 percent of my fans are from overseas. Even today, I’m completely unknown in Japan!'

Music

l y n i V l a v i v Re

Feel nostalgic for a time when analogue was still king

Music

Indulge yourself in a hunt for quality tunes at these top record stores. Words Kunihiro Miki

nce serving mainly the city’s DJ population, vinyl-focused record shops have been undergoing something of a revival over the past few years in Tokyo, attracting strong numbers of quality-conscious music enthusiasts who still prefer physical records over digital downloads. Visit-worthy stores can be found all over the city, but this list highlights six of the best outlets and points out which genres are best represented at each store. No matter what your musical preferences might be, the variety on offer at these fine establishments is sure to satisfy. HMV RECORD SHOP If you’re a music enthusiast who still swears by vinyl and enjoys digging through piles of secondhand records, then this Shibuya shop will feel like a small slice of heaven. Opened in August 2014, HMV stocks up to 80,000 titles, with most of those being vinyl. The focus is on releases from the ’60s to the late ’90s, and a small room at the back even holds a selection of cassette tapes. Most records on sale in the shop can be tried out on the freely usable laser turntable. 1-2F Noa Shibuya, 36-2 Udagawacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 5784 1390. tinyurl. com/hmv-record JET SET Based in Shimokitazawa and Kyoto (and online), Jet Set covers all genres with albums selected by their expert buyers. Best if you’re looking for soft rock, soul, house, disco and techno. And if you’re into Japanese pop, you’ll be amazed by Jet Set’s limited-edition 7- and 12-inch records. 2F, 2-33-12 Kitazawa, Setagaya (Shimokitazawa Station). 03 5452 2262. tinyurl.com/TOTjet-set NOAH LEWIS’ RECORDS Breathing in the distinctive aroma of vintage vinyl, you can’t help but feel nostalgic for a time

when analogue was still king. Rewind your clock a little at this vintage record specialty shop, mainly dealing in discs from the ’20s to the ’60s. The genre ranges from jazz and country to world music even from before WWII. They offer a trial listening service too, so take as much time as you need for the hunt. 2-23-12 Kitazawa, Setagaya (Shimokitazawa Station). 03 3418 0161. FLASH DISC RANCH This one is a must for serious musos. Walk through the monster’s mouth entrance and up a flight of stairs and you’ll be greeted by boxes of records, loud music blasting from a vintage sound system and the shop’s very friendly owner, Masao Tsubaki. In addition to rock, jazz and house music, they stock rare grooves. The popular ‘three for ¥2,000’ section will make you wonder how exactly they manage to stay in business after selling top records at such low prices. Also, Best Sound Records is just one floor above, so you get double the fun at this location. 2F Misuzu Bldg, 2-12-16 Kitazawa, Setagaya (Shimokitazawa Station). 03 3414 0421. LIGHTHOUSE RECORDS This atmospheric Shibuya record store focuses on genres such as house, disco and Balearic house, and also boasts a pair of handsome vintage Klipschorn floor speakers. Prices are very reasonable, and the shop gets a shipment of new stock every week. 4F Masami Bldg, 2-9-2 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3461 7315. tinyurl.com/TOTlighthouse FACE RECORDS Founded in 1994 and still beloved by fans of all ages, Face stocks jazz, soul, reggae and world music in 7- and 12-inch vinyl form. The CD and DVD assortments are worth a look, too. 10-2 Udagawacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3462 5696. tinyurl.com/TOTface-records

56 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Clockwise from this image: Jet Set, Lighthouse Records, Noah Lewis Records, HMV Record Shop

Music For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 57

Nightlife Just add water Tired of congested clubs and tiny bars? Here are five alternative afterdark activities that let you take in Skytree or Rainbow Bridge views while you’re at it. Words Annemarie Luck and Yusuf Huysal

City living getting you down? You’re not alone – according to our recent City Living Survey, plenty of you ‘had a little cry’ or ‘got drunk enough to have a hangover’ as a way of dealing with your stress. Here’s a better idea: spend an evening canoeing your way down a calm river in Tokyo’s Koto ward, with a rewarding view of the lit-up Skytree Tower. We signed up for the experience with Zac, an outdoor sports club that hosts a variety of adventure activities, and welcomes all skill levels. If you’re a beginner, the guides, Yukio Fukazawa and Masako Kurakazu, will explain the rules of the river and how to paddle, but take it from us, it’s super easy – Kyu Naka river is manmade so there’s no risk of being swept away by strong currents. You’ll be given a lifejacket just in case, but there’s not much chance of you falling in. The guides are Japanese but they speak enough English that you shouldn’t have any problem understanding what to do. They also offer daytrips, which are perfect for the spring and summer months. The night tour costs ¥5,500 and lasts about one hour and 45 minutes, with a meeting time of 6.30pm (time varies according to season) just near to Higashi-Ojima Station. The website with details about what to bring is in Japanese, but basically you’ll need: light footwear like Crocs, rain jacket, gloves, towel, change of clothes and a copy of your health insurance card. To make a booking, send an email to info@zacsports.com. www.zacsports.com

Your samurai boat awaits

TAKE IN A SHOW ON THE ‘SAMURAI PLEASURE BOAT’

The Gozabune Atakemaru, as it’s officially named, offers three things in one: a Tokyo bay cruise, a ‘kabuki comedy’ show, and a buffet dinner. As the boat – an exquisite replica of the private liners used by feudal lords in the Edo era – leaves from Hinode pier, the lights dim and the stage comes to life with performers dressed in elaborate, colourful traditional garb. The show may not be the best example of kabuki (it’s more like a slapstick, laugh-out-loud version of the classical Japanese dance-drama) but as a whole, it’s 90 minutes of pretty fascinating time-warp entertainment. Even though the show is in Japanese, there’s enough beauty, spirit and action to hold your attention. Performers include members of Japan’s Shiki Theatre Company, and the show changes with the seasons. During Spot the canoe show breaks you’re

58 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

welcome to explore the boat’s deck and take in the cityscape, including landmarks such as Tokyo Tower, Rainbow Bridge and Tokyo Gate Bridge. The cruise is 120 minutes in total and dinner is an ‘all you can eat and drink’ deal. 03 3644 5497. www. gozabune.jp. ¥5,500 per adult and ¥3,800 per child (price changes from Jun-Sep).

STEP ABOARD THE FLOATING BAR

Even once the boozy summer boat-cruise season is over, there’s no need for your Friday nights to turn dry. Jicoo, The Floating Bar operates all year round, offering Thursday-, Friday- and Saturdaynight cruises between Hinode Pier and Odaiba, complete with DJ and colour-changing lights to set the mood – although Rainbow Bridge, framed by the full windows on either side of the boat, does a good job of that all on its own. We visited on a Friday night and the vibe was laidback (think lounge music mixed with the odd jazz tune or Bryan Ferry track), but manager Go Motomura assured us that, come Saturday night, the place gets packed with party people. Jicoo departs from Hinode Pier at 8pm, 9pm and 10pm, and it’s an hour roundtrip (you can also embark at Odaiba Seaside Park on the half-hour). It costs ¥2,600, but once you’re on board you can stay put until the evening ends at 11pm. No

CANOE: MANABU MOROOKA, SAMURAI BOAT: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Nightlife

GO NIGHT CANOEING IN THE MIDDLE OF TOKYO

90 minutes of time-warp entertainment

DINE WITH A GEISHA ON AN OLD JAPANESE HOUSEBOAT

reservations are needed, unless you’re arriving with a group larger than 20. www.jicoofloatingbar.com

HAVE AN ELEGANT DINNER ON THE VINGT ET UN If you’re keen for a cruise past the landmarks of Tokyo Bay while indulging in some delicious continental cuisine, hop on the Ving et un for a

sumptuous French meal on water. Keep one eye out for Tokyo Tower and the colourful lights of Rainbow Bridge while relishing foie gras and a glass of red. The two-hour trip will take you all the way to Haneda Airport and back, departing for its evening journey at 7.20pm. Choose from three different meal sets with prices ranging from ¥5,300 to ¥15,000

Up for some entertainment fit for a shogun in a yakatabune (old Japanese houseboat), complete with tatami floors and horigotatsu (sunken) chairs? Then catch the Yakatabune Funasei from Shinagawa. The trip takes 2h30m to 2h45m and costs ¥10,800, which includes sashimi and tempura with plenty of sake to wash it all down. For privately booked tours, the company will hire a kimono-clad geisha to be your hostess during the cruise and perform songs with the traditional instrument shamisen. Karaoke is free of charge and we recommend wearing a yukata during warmer weather. To book in English, call 03 6871 9260. www.funasei.com/fsei_english.htm

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Nightlife

(discounts offered for children). Call 03 3436 2121 to make a reservation. tinyurl.com/ TOTving-et-un

Promotional feature LOCAL INSIGHT

THE MYSTERIES OF ROBOT RESTAURANT If you think you’ve got Japanese culture locked down, this show will make you think again. Words Youka Nagase

e’ve all heard the buzz about the now famous Robot Restaurant situated in the sketchy streets of Shinjuku’s Kabukicho. Some of you may think it’s merely a tourist trap to lure foreigners into thinking robots are found on every corner in Tokyo – because Japan is where all the crazy cool inventions are made, right? Maybe it is. But since opening in 2012, Robot Restaurant has also become a place where you can experience a specific part of Japanese culture that’s not easily found elsewhere. Four years on and it’s still welcoming tourists (and locals) in droves into a somewhat baffling world, adding in new elements here and there to spice things up. From a panda riding a cow and fighting off evil to dancing robots covered in neon lights, the bizarre factor is off the charts. I recently went along to see what the buzz is all about and it left me with three burning questions...

WHY THE HORSE MASKS? In my opinion, horse masks are a little creepy and should only be worn as Halloween costumes. Yet somehow, when I was confronted by a mob of performers dressed in flashy outfits, strumming guitars like rock stars, and all wearing horse masks, I laughed out loud. Who knows how these masks ended up becoming a comic element in Japan or what they are supposed to symbolise, but there you have it. WHAT INSPIRED THE WHITE EAGLE ROBOT? I’m a huge fan of the show’s ‘robot wars’ segment, which entails gigantic animal robots battling each other to the ends of the earth. Added to the lineup of a monstrous spider, snake and dragon is Robot Restaurant’s latest animal ’bot: a majestic white eagle with wings so large they spread from one side of the audience to the other. Perhaps influenced by Harry Potter? Bring the discount coupon on page 59 with you to Robot Restaurant and get ¥2,000 off your bill.

IS THAT A ROBOT PARADE OR A BRAZILIAN STREET CARNIVAL? Did Japan just win the World Cup? Nope, it’s just some kind of cross-culture parade with women dancing around in flamboyant rainbow-coloured samba costumes and robots zigzagging in between them. To top off the entertainment, two girls in sparkly silver outfits are carried around on a travelling stage, singing a song that sounds like it’s made for anime. It’s confusing, exciting and bound to inspire some glow-stick waving.

HOW TO BOOK: Robot Restaurant is open for three shows daily, starting at 5.55pm, 7.50pm and 9.45pm (with an additional show at 4pm on weekends and holidays), and the format is changed every few months to keep things fresh. You can reserve your spot a couple of days ahead by calling the number below between 9am and 10pm. The entrance fee is ¥8,000, excluding food and drinks. Note that the schedule might change due to maintenance. Shinjuku Robot Bldg, 1-7-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 3200 5500. www.shinjuku-robot.com. 4pm-11pm daily.

Film FIVE TOP NEW FILMS TO WATCH BANKSY DOES NEW YORK A documentary that follows Banksy as he takes over the streets of New York with his satirical art in 2013. He sparked a month-long scavenger hunt in the Big Apple, providing hints online that fans used to walk the streets and discover his daily exhibitions.

How to watch five films for under ¥6,000

Eight sneaky ways to get a discount on Tokyo’s high cinema prices, and five upcoming movies to watch while you’re at it. Words Youka Nagase

et’s be real, nobody is happy paying ¥1,800 to watch a movie, even if it is on a big screen. Besides, you at least need a little spare cash for coke and popcorn, right? Here are eight regular discount offers that will help cut this amount down to around ¥1,000, so you could effectively watch our entire list of top latest releases (see sidebar) for the price of two whole chickens from National Azabu (yes, also very expensive).

LADIES’ DAY Sorry guys, you’re home alone on Wednesdays from now on. Ladies, mid-week you get treated to movies for ¥1,100. Although a few cinemas do offer a Men’s Day discount, it’s not as widespread. Shame.

FIRST DAY Every first day of the month is discount day at all cinemas in Tokyo with movie tickets going for just ¥1,100.

COUPLES’ DAY And the men are back. Head to the ticket counter with your significant other and let them know you’re a couple to receive a discount. Unfortunately, since Tokyo is still lagging behind on gay rights, same-sex couples don’t qualify for this offer (yet!). This offer is available on the 22nd of each month at all 109 Cinemas.

CINEMA DAY A few major cinemas like to celebrate ‘Cinema Day’ when tickets are typically priced around ¥1,000 to ¥1,100. Note that it’s held on different days depending on the cinema, so be sure to check their websites before you head out.

MARRIED COUPLES’ DAY Don’t let anyone tell you there aren’t benefits to being married. Although, to get this particular discount, one of you has to be over 50 years old. Show your ID at the counter and you’ll receive the special price of ¥2,200 for the two of you.

LATE/FIRST SHOWS Begin or end your days at the cinema and you’ll likely save some cash. The very first show of the day as well as some shows after 8pm are priced at ¥1,300 at most major cinemas. Popcorn for breakfast doesn’t sound so bad. HIGH SCHOOL STUDENT FRIENDSHIP Any day, any time, high-school students can watch films for just ¥1,000. Only groups of three or more students are eligible for this discount and ID is required. HAPPY MONDAY/ TUESDAY/FRIDAY Cinemas in Tokyo enjoy celebrating random days of the week, giving you an opportunity to watch movies for ¥1,000. Check out your local cinema’s website to see which day they’ve decided is worthy of a discount. Please note that not all cinemas offer the discounts listed here.

THE REVENANT Leonardo DiCaprio finally bagged an Oscar for this one, and it was well-deserved as his performance as Hugh Glass is riveting. Watch him endure the unendurable – like getting mauled by a bear and being left for dead by his team – as a frontiersman in the 1820s. SNOWDEN Joseph Gordon-Levitt can do no wrong at the moment. In this biographical political thriller, he tackles the role of Edward Snowden, the former CIA employee who leaked classified information from the US government’s National Security Agency to the ‘Guardian’ in 2013. THE BROTHERS GRIMSBY A British action comedy featuring Sacha Baron Cohen as dimwitted Nobby who reunites with his estranged brother after 28 years, only to discover his bro is an MI6 assassin on the run. The funniest part so far? Watching Borat calling the film ‘disgusting’ on ‘Jimmy Kimmel Live’.

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Film

Eye on the Oscar Leo DiCaprio in ‘The Revenant’

ROOM An emotional drama in which ‘Ma’ and her son Jack are kept captive in a room for years. To try and make his upbringing in the room more bearable, Ma leads Jack to believe that everything he sees on TV is fake. Eventually, they plan an escape. For her performance as Ma, Brie Larson won the Best Actress Oscar.

LGBT Happy hours! Bar-hopping in Nichome? Begin your evening early and take advantage of these drink deals. Words Joseph Eddy

LGBT

okyo’s gay district has a split personality. During the day, the streets look no different to any other, but at night the few blocks that comprise the world’s most densely packed gay neighbourhood come alive. To kick off your Nichome exploration, here are five bars with noteworthy happy hour deals. DRAGON MEN Set in a large space on the edge of Nichome, Dragon Men’s dancefloor gets packed at the weekends. The friendly crowd is a mix of Japanese and foreign men and women. As for the happy hour, it runs all week long: from Monday to Thursday, 6pm to 8pm, you get ¥200 off all drinks; from Friday to Sunday, the fun lasts until 9pm. In addition, Sunday also features Dragon’s famed Beer/ Cocktail/Wine Blast, which is an ‘all you can drink’ special for just ¥1,000. Stork Nagasaki Bldg, 2-114 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (ShinjukuSanchome Station). 03 3341 0606. tinyurl.com/TOTdragonmenstork GOLD FINGER Set off from the main road, Gold Finger is focused on women, with their Saturday-night events admitting only ladies. During the week, however, they open their doors to everyone and you’re likely to end up sharing dinks – and singing karaoke – with people from all over the world. The bartenders, who are all female, will serve you two drinks for ¥1,000 between 6pm and 8pm from Monday to Friday. 2-12-11 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku-Sanchome Station). 03 6383 4649. tinyurl.com/ TOTgoldfinger AIIRO CAFÉ On busy nights, you’ll be welcomed by Aiiro’s motley crew of revellers

Join the motley crew of revellers international mixer parties. Paddy’s also offers open-mic karaoke on Fridays and is decked with an 80-inch screen for sports fans. Their happy hour runs Monday to Saturday from 5pm to 7pm, with 50 percent off on all cocktails. 2-13-16 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku-Sanchome Station). 03 6273 1755. tinyurl.com/ TOTpaddysjunction

Clockwise from above: Aiiro Café, Paddy’s Junction, Alamas Café

– young, old, gay, straight, male and female – spilling out onto the bustling street under the red torii gate that guards its entrance. Aiiro provides a perfect vantage point to indulge in some people watching as the curious characters of the night emerge for their nocturnal stroll out on the main street. Aiiro’s all-youcan-drink beer blast, offered daily from 6pm to 9pm for ¥1,000, makes it the perfect place to start a funpacked night in Nichome. B1F, 7th Tenka Bldg, 2-18-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku-Sanchome Station). 03 6273 0740. tinyurl.com/TOTaiiro ALAMAS CAFÉ Alamas Café sits right on the main street opposite the famous Shine Mart convenience store. This relaxed

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Southeast Asian bar has a great vibe thanks to its ever-changing DJ sets and cool wooden interior where drag queens mill about the crowd. Alamas also serves nibbles from ¥400 alongside its wide selection of cocktails. Happy hour draws in the crowds daily from 6pm to 9pm offering drinks for ¥500. Garnet Bldg, 2-12-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (ShinjukuSanchome Station). 03 6914 9215. tinyurl.com/TOTalamas PADDY’S JUNCTION With its cosy Irish pub atmosphere and friendly staff, Paddy’s Junction is a welcome respite from the dark and loud bars of Nichome. The pub is tucked away off the main street and boasts alfresco seating as well as a large indoor space where they host

MOFUMOFU Nichome has its big bars full of people but the best places are usually hidden away and can accommodate only a few customers. Easily overlooked in a building packed with bars is MofuMofu, a quaint spot themed after the band Momoclo (perhaps explained by the fact that its owner Mo-Co is a member of a Momoclo drag tribute act). Its friendly staff have a knack for creating an intimate atmosphere over small talk with their customers, numbering no more than a dozen at a time. The bar offers free karaoke and an all-you-can-drink happy hour from Monday to Saturday between 8pm to 10pm for ¥2,000. 3F Ebana Bldg, 2-10-2 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (ShinjukuSanchome Station). 03 6273 0925. tinyurl.com/TOTmofumofu

Sport participation awards, which make for a hard-earned memento. April 22, July 8, October 14, 2016. Races include 5km and 10km. www.s-taikai. jp/kasai

Besides the well-known Tokyo Marathon, our city offers a number of more unusual running events. Mineta Suzuki checks them out

ou may think Tokyo has no road to spare for runners, but there are a good few races happening all year round. They vary from the knee-killing 42km Tokyo Marathon to shorter speed walks, welcoming runners of all levels. However, we’re more interested in the lesser-known but ultimately more fun races on offer. Do you like the idea of satisfying your sweet tooth while experiencing that runner’s high? You’re in for a treat… SWEETS MARATHON Give yourself a reward before you’ve even crossed the finish line. Instead of boring bananas, the aid stations along this race provide more than 200 kinds of bite-sized delights like pudding, cupcakes and wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets). Held in seven different regions of Japan, the fun run-style race’s delicious combination attracts runners with a sugar crush (apparently 60 percent of entrants are women). Wrap it up with the costume contest at the end of the day. Held in Tokyo every January. Races include relays, 5km and 10km. www.sweets-marathon.jp

GOCHI RUN If you prefer savoury to sweet, then rather go for the Gochi Run. How on earth can you slurp up ramen or bite into takoyaki (octopus balls) on the run? Well, there are two ‘gourmet coupons’ attached to your number, which you then exchange for food after running. But popular food stalls tend to sell out quickly, so it may well end up being a race to get your hands on your desired dish. If you happen to be looking for love, they have a special ‘matchmaking’ system for those who enter in groups, reshuffling entrants to make sure each team has an equal mix of

men and women. Held in Tokyo in December (2016 date TBC). Races include a 10km run, a 42km relay run, and a 2km family run. gochirun.com KASAI NIGHT MARATHON The setting for this race is Kasai Rinkai Park, which is located on the waterfront close to Tokyo Disney Resort. The course takes you past pretty much all the popular attractions here, including Japan’s biggest Ferris wheel, a lotus pond and Tokyo Sea Life Park – all of which are prettily lit up. It’s held three times a year and offers various

KOKYO IMPERIAL PALACE RUN FOR BEGINNERS Running around the Imperial Palace is Tokyo’s answer to running along the Hudson River in New York City. As the name says, beginners are welcome and should probably start with the 5km race, while inspired marathoners can tackle the 20km. Held once a month, the race starts at 1pm, which gives you enough time for a restful outing afterwards (the course is close to some of Tokyo’s best sights). Also check out the monthly Kokyo Run & Walk, which is a more easy-going version and includes a 5km walk. April 17, May 22, June 12, September 11. Races include 5km, 10km and 20km. swac. jp/taikai

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Sport

The (fun) race is on

HUARACHES 6 HOURS The slogan of this race is rather wordy and confusing: ‘If you like running, you might as well experience the world’s cultures and traditions.’ So, let us break it down for you. It’s a six-hour relay race and each team member needs to run at least two kilometres, with awards given to individuals or teams that run the longest distance within the timeframe. The ‘world’s cultures’ bit refers to the fact that you can choose to run in a pair of huaraches, traditional Mexican sandals that are loved for their durability and comfort by the Tarahumara people, who are renowned for their long-distance running ability. You can either buy a pair from the shop before the race or join a workshop and make your own while your teammates sweat it out on the course. They’ll also be serving Mexican grub for lunch. Pretty much the most relaxed race we’ve ever come across. May 28, 2016. Each team can have up to nine members. wwrun.jp

The real deal ryokan Where to stay for a taste of true and traditional Japanese hospitality

here’s certainly no shortage of hotels in Tokyo and travellers can easily find luxury accommodation by global brands as well as more local establishments that dot the city. What’s harder to locate is a good ryokan, the old-school Japanese guest house with tatami mat floors, futon bedding and low tables where you can enjoy a cup of green tea after a long day of sightseeing. Staying at a ryokan not only provides a great introduction to traditional Japanese culture and hospitality but it also allows you to feel properly immersed in the local lifestyle.

From above: Sukeroku no Yado Sadachiyo, Seikou

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SEIKOU The domed roof at this landmark Ogikubo establishment spells out ‘Seikou Lodging’. Located right next to a run-of-the-mill apartment block, the historical ryokan building is a registered Tangible Cultural Property of Japan, with interiors resembling an old Western-style boarding house renovated in Japanese style. The narrow corridors are fitted with stepping stones and eaves, with the Western influence more visible in details like the impressive glass-panelled fireplace, all in all providing for a unique combination. 3-38-9 Ogikubo,

IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Travel & Hotels

Sawanoya Ryokan

Travel & Hotels

Ryokan Shigetsu

Enjoy tatami mat floors, futon bedding and low tables Homeikan

Suginami (Ogikubo Station). 03 3391 0606. tinyurl. com/TOTseikou. From ¥6,000 per person per night. HOMEIKAN This wonderful old ryokan in the sleepy streets of Hongo looks just like a Japanese inn ought to: wooden, glass-fronted and with an ornamental garden at the front. And its owners plan to keep it that way following the ryokan’s designation as an Important Cultural Property. Be sure to chat to Homeikan’s English-speaking manager Kunio Koike when making a reservation – he can help you choose a room and, if need be, direct you away from rowdy Japanese students who often lodge here. The inn is divided into two buildings, which face each other, with another branch a fiveminute walk away. 5-10-5 Hongo, Bunkyo (HongoSanchome Station). 03 3811 1181. tinyurl.com/ TOThomeikan. From ¥6,825 per person per night. SAWANOYA RYOKAN One of the few ryokan in Tokyo to cater almost exclusively for foreign visitors, Sawanoya has a small library of English-language guidebooks and provides its own map of the old-fashioned

Yanaka area, plus cheap bicycle rentals. Rooms are small but comfortable, and there are signs in English reminding you how to behave and how to use the bath. More expensive rooms have en suite bathrooms (¥10,080 for a double); cheaper ones have access to the communal Japanese-style baths and shower. There’s also a small coffee lounge, and all rooms have free internet. The couple who own the place do everything possible to make your stay enjoyable. 2-3-11 Yanaka, Taito (Nezu Station). 03 3822 2251. tinyurl.com/ TOTsawanoya. From ¥5,040 per person per night. RYOKAN SHIGETSU Barely 30 seconds from Asakusa’s market and temple complex, yet surprisingly peaceful, Shigetsu offers a choice of comfortable rooms in Japanese and Western styles in an elegant downtown setting. All rooms have their own bathrooms, although there is also a Japanesestyle communal bath on the top floor. Recent years have seen a shift back to Japanese-style rooms, with 15 of the 23 now featuring traditional tatami and futon furnishings. Booking is recommended and can be made through the Japan Inn Group

(www.jpinn.com). 1-31-11 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 3843 2345. tinyurl.com/TOTshigetsu. From ¥8,400 per person per night. SUKEROKU NO YADO SADACHIYO This smart, modern ryokan is wonderfully situated five minutes’ walk from Asakusa’s temple. From the outside, the building resembles a cross between a European chalet and a Japanese castle, but inside it’s pure Japanese, with receptionists shuffling around the desk area dressed in kimonos. Staff are obliging, but speak only minimal English. All rooms are Japanese-style and come in a variety of sizes, the smallest being just five mats. The communal Japanese baths should help make a stay here a memorable and incredibly relaxing experience. 2-20-1 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa, Tawaramachi stations). 03 3842 6431. tinyurl.com/TOTsukeroku. From ¥15,000 per person per night (breakfast included). For the full list of Tokyo’s top ryokan, go to tinyurl.com/ TOTryokan

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Travel & Hotels

Where the wild things are Travel & Hotels

Spot whales, sharks, bears and more on your next holiday. Words Youka Nagase

ure, Japan has a plethora of animal cafés and a number of zoos. But what do you do if you’d prefer to see animals in their natural environments? The closest you’ll get to this in Tokyo’s city centre is seeing a crow rummaging through the garbage. So, next time you’re planning a holiday, consider one of the following destinations – each a top getaway and each boasting a wealth of wildlife, which you can admire on various organised tours. WHALES AND DOLPHINS NEAR TOKYO (SORT OF) Ogasawara Islands Though technically part of Tokyo Prefecture, the 30 islands comprising the Ogasawara Islands are actually around 1,000km from the capital. Although it will take you 25 hours by ferry to reach them, it’s worth it. Designated a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site, the islands are home to many unique and beautiful creatures, and you can book tours to swim with dolphins or watch whales. Best time to go is between May and November. tinyurl. com/TOTogasawara Miyakejima Just 180km from Tokyo, this island boasts clear blue ocean and vast greenery and is considered one of the most valuable natural

the depths of the ocean where you can swim alongside hammerhead sharks – don’t worry, they don’t seek human prey (unless you attack them first, of course). If you’re not brave enough for that, then check out the ‘manta scramble’ with Umicoza Diving School (www.umicoza.com/ english). You can see manta rays all year round, but we recommend September to November.

environments in Japan. It’s part of Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park and has been nicknamed ‘Bird Island’ because of the unique birds that inhabit the area. From March through November, you can swim with dolphins and take a closer look at other sea animals as well as the 90 different kinds of coral found here. www.dolphin-club-miyakejima.com. SHARKS AND MANTA RAYS IN OKINAWA Comprising 150 islands, Okinawa boasts all kinds of unusual creatures from blue crabs to 25cm-large moths. Known as a mecca for divers, its ocean holds one of the world’s largest coral habitats and has been compared to the Great Barrier Reef. Yonaguni Diving (www. yonaguni.jp/en) will take you into

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EAGLES, STOATS AND BEARS IN HOKKAIDO Hokkaido is home to plenty of wildlife including the furry Siberian flying squirrel, marvellous killer whales, and Japan’s red crowned cranes. From January to April, about 2,000 Steller’s sea eagles migrate here and can be spotted on the Nemuro Peninsula. They are one of the largest eagle species in the world and you can view them hunting for food with their distinctive yellow beaks. Book a Nature Cruise via www.e-shiretoko.com to see both Steller’s and White-tailed eagles in the northern Nemuro Strait. The same company also offers tours to spot black bears and killer whales. If you’re planning a hike, keep an eye out for the Japanese stoat, an adorable short-tailed weasel that’s known for its magnificent coat colour transformation. These critters are usually covered in dark brown fur,

but during the wintertime, their coat becomes white as snow. They’re tiny, though, so search for them in the cracks between rocks. Also check out Kamuiwakka’s brown-bear watching tour (kamuiwakka.jp/cruising/course. php) and Shiretoko Nature Office’s night wildlife tour during which you’ll see deer and foxes (www.sno.co.jp/ night-watch.html). BUY THE BOOK

DEER IN NARA AND HIROSHIMA

There are about 1,200 deer in Nara and up to 500 in Hiroshima's Miyajima, many of which, amazingly, roam free amongst people on the streets. A new photo book by Yoko Ishii called ‘Shika Shika’ ('Dear Deer') takes an amusing and heartwarming look at these wild citizens. If you don’t manage to travel and see them for yourself, check the book out at www. yokoishii.com and on Amazon.

Getting Around Taxi tips

How to catch a cab in Tokyo. Words Joyce Lam

case of any lost property – it makes the search a lot easier. Finally, don’t worry to close the door after you get out of the car – the driver will close it automatically. FARE Fares within the 23 wards in Tokyo start at ¥730 (subject to changes) for the first two kilometres and then roll at a rate of ¥90 for every 280m. There is a strict ‘no tips, no bargaining’ policy. Note that they usually only hold up to four passengers and there is a surcharge of up to 20 percent at night, usually between 10pm and 5am. Expressway toll fares are not included in the fare. TAXI APPS These handy apps make ordering a taxi faster and easier…

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Japan Taxi Order a taxi with a tap using the GPS function on your smartphone. The app operates throughout Japan’s 47 prefectures with more than 20,000 cars from different taxi companies at its beck and call. You can also save your home and company address or view your trip history to make your next booking easier. Keep in mind that the app requires network service to use the GPS. tinyurl.com/TOTjapan-taxi Uber Expanding worldwide at an incredible speed, Uber entered the Japanese market in 2014. The service is becoming increasingly popular amongst Japanese passengers as the standard fare starts at ¥103 and runs at ¥309 per one kilometre (with a minimum spend of ¥823). tinyurl. com/TOTuber

Line Taxi Line is one of the most widely used messaging apps in Japan and Line Taxi runs as a separate feature embedded inside the messenger. Line Taxi has partnered with Nihon Kotsu, Japan’s largest taxi company whose 3,000-plus taxis are on hand to pick up passengers. At the moment, the service is available in central Tokyo, Mitaka and Musashino. The only catch is that payment is made through Line Pay, which requires users to have a Japanese insurance card or driver’s licence as well as a Japanese credit card. Download Line first, then access the taxi app from there. line.me/en For more essential travel info go to timeout.com/tokyo

IMAGE: PIGPROX / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Getting Around

lthough Tokyo’s taxis are not as famed as London’s black cabs or New York’s yellow motors, they’re still extremely easy to spot – and you never have to wait much longer than a minute before you’ll see one heading towards you. Drivers are dressed in clean-cut uniforms (sometimes with a hat) and offer polite communication with a mouthful of keigo (‘respectful language’). You can hail a taxi by waving your hand from the sidewalk and the driver will pull up neatly alongside you, the door opening automatically. If it’s vacant, the light on top of the car will be off, but they’ll also display a red light in the front of the car with kanji for ‘ku-sha’ or ‘empty car’ (a green light means occupied). Not all drivers are fluent in English, so to be on the safe side, we recommend you write down the address you’re going to in Japanese beforehand. A landline number for the destination is also helpful as most taxis are equipped with a GPS that can locate a venue using the phone number. Once you have reached your destination, you can alert the driver by saying, ‘Koko desu’ (‘It is here’). Taxis accept both cash and credit cards, and some also accept Suica cards (just be sure it’s charged up beforehand). You will always get a receipt and it’s advisable to keep it in

Going underground? Welcometo tothe theworldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;smost mostefficient efficienttransport transport system Welcome

Getting Around Around Foryour yourfull, full,up-to-the-minute up-to-the-minuteguide guideto toTokyo Tokyovisit visit www.timeout.com/tokyo www.timeout.com/tokyo 77 69 For

Getting Around

Spring festivals Getting Around

There’s so much more to the season than cherry blossoms… 1. Bunkyo Azalea Festival (Nezu Shrine) Bunkyo Ward is coloured with flower blossoms all year round – sakura in spring, hydrangea during the monsoon season, chrysanthemum in autumn and plum trees in the winter. Their azaleas are slightly less known, but you can appreciate their blooming beauty at this festival dedicated to them. Apr 9-May 5 1-28-9 Nezu, Bunkyo (Nezu or Sendagi stations). 2. Fuji Matsuri (Kameido Tenjin Shrine) Housing over 100 wisteria trees, Kameido Tenjin Shrine is one of the best places to see these delicate purple flowers in Tokyo. Visit from the end of April until the beginning of May to be awed by the traditional beauty of the shrine, which has been the subject of countless ukiyo-e artworks. If you walk from Kameido Station, you’ll get a chance to see the shitamachi (downtown) neighbourhood too. Late April to early May 3-6-1 Kameido, Koto (Kameido Station). 3. Spring Grand Festival (Meiji Jingu) Meiji Jingu is one of the shrines of Shinto, which is the indigenous religion of Japan. At the Spring Grand Festival, you’ll have a chance to see several ritual ceremonies and performances dedicated to kami, divine souls enshrined here. At the main shrine, you can watch shrine maidens perform the Urayasu-noMai, a sacred dance designed to be a prayer for worldwide peace, while just in front of the main shrine, you can enjoy performances of noh and kyogen, ancient court music, and other traditional Japanese cultural arts. Apr 29-May 3 1-1 Yoyogi-Kamizonocho, Shibuya (Harajuku Station).

4. Kachiya Festival (Katori Shrine) This one commemorates the Heian court bureaucrat Fujiwara no Hidesato’s prayer for victory, after which he successfully quelled an uprising spearheaded by samurai Taira no Masakado. The festival dates back to Hidesato’s offering of his bow and arrow to the shrine after his victory in battle. During the modern festival, you’ll witness the dedication of a kachiya (victory arrow) and a traditional warrior parade. May 5 3-57-22 Kameido, Koto (Kameido Station). 5. Sanja Matsuri (Sensoji Temple) Also known as the ‘Asakusa Jinja Rei-Taisai’, this festival honours the three men who founded Sensoji Temple after discovering a Kannon goddess statue that was caught in a fishing net in Sumida River. Held in May every year, the festival’s highlight is on the Sunday when there’s a parade featuring three mikoshi (portable shrines), flutes and taiko drumming. May 13-15 Sensoji Temple, 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station) and other areas around Asakusa. 6. Sanno Matsuri (Hie Shrine) Shinkosai, which is the highlight of the Sanno Matsuri, involves a spiritual parade that is 300m long and passes by Tokyo Station, Ginza and the Imperial Palace. This matsuri happens every two years and sees kids dressing up in orange and purple to pray for growth and health, while grown-ups pray for longevity by performing ‘chinowa-kuguri’, a rite in which people pass through a reed ring that represents purification. June 7-17 Hie Shrine, 2-10-5 Nagata-cho, Chiyoda (Akasaka or Tameike-Sanno stations).

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Getting Around

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Lost in Harajuku? Head straight for Moshi Moshi Box

s the shopping district that symbolises Japanese pop culture, Harajuku is a must-visit for any tourist. But anyone who’s jumped into the shopping fray will tell you it can be a little intimidating. Which is why you’ll be pleased to hear about Moshi Moshi Box, the tourist information centre that’s right in the heart of the area. To find it, walk five minutes from the station and look out for the centre’s symbol – a big, colourful world clock designed by Harajuku kawaii impresario Sebastian Masuda. The centre provides sightseeing information for the Shibuya area, including Harajuku. It also provides essential information and services such as courier assistance, a foreign currency exchange machine, and free wi-fi. But that’s not all: aiming to serve as an entertainment centre in itself, it’s a place where overseas visitors can experience J-pop culture through activities such as karaoke. There’s also a souvenir shop where you can pick up Mt Fuji artwork and quirky items such as sushi socks and accessories with popular Harajuku motifs. 3-23-5 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku and Meiji-Jingumae stations). 03 6447 2225. moshimoshi-nippon.jp. Daily 10am-6pm.

Get our maps and mag in Shibuya Stop by the Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre

You can now get your copy of Time Out Tokyo magazine delivered – we ship internationally too! Please visit time-outtokyo.myshopify. com.

Pick up our maps and magazine at one of these venues: Stations: Select Tokyo Metro and Toei Subway stations Tourist information centres: Tokyo Metropolitan Government Headquarters Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre Tokyo City Air Terminal and more tourist information centres Airports: Haneda Airport Narita International Airport Shops: Tsutaya Tokyo Roppongi Books Kinokuniya Tokyo Tower Records Shibuya and more shops

ime Out readers will know about our popular series of free maps: pocket-sized guides to the multifarious delights this city has to offer. They’re hard to miss these days – as well as our ever-popular ‘101 things to do in Shibuya’ edition and the comprehensive ‘88 things to do in Tokyo’, we’ve come out with maps for nearly all the top areas including Roppongi, Shinjuku, Nihonbashi, Marunouchi, Koenji and Ginza.

Each edition squeezes the best of the capital into a compact pamphlet, complete with a city map, and we’ve included everything from offbeat art galleries and otaku meccas to ancient shrines and hipster hangouts. We’ve also recently expanded the series to include places beyond Tokyo, launching special maps for those of you heading to Ise-Shima or Sapporo in Hokkaido – both make for a great mini getaway.

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All of these publications, along with issues of our magazine, are available to pick up at Shibuya Station’s tourist information centre, conveniently located in the underground passage on the second basement floor of Shibuya Station. The Englishspeaking guides will help you stock up, provide sightseeing tips, and assist you in navigating the bowels of the cavernous station itself.

Hotels that have Les Clefs d’Or Japan member concierge: ANA InterContinental Tokyo The Peninsula Tokyo Palace Hotel Tokyo Park Hyatt Tokyo Grand Pacific Le Daiba Mandarin Oriental,Tokyo Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel Grand Hyatt Tokyo Conrad Tokyo Hotel Okura Tokyo The Ritz Carlton Tokyo Prince Park Tower Tokyo and more hotels Note: If you can’t find the map you’re looking for, this probably means we’ve temporarily run out of stock. Please be patient while we work on the next print run. Please direct any advertising queries to sales@timeout.jp.

SHIBUYA INFORMATION CENTER: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Restaurants: Time Out Cafe & Diner Hard Rock Café Tokyo (Roppongi) and more restaurants

is, deep down, about more than just size, consider the extreme difference between enormous castles and tiny tea rooms. I believe that by inviting the enemy general to a colossal, thousand-acre castle and then entertaining him in a three-squaremetre tea room, warlords assessed each other’s might and personality by zooming in and out of the world of battle. By zooming out on the vast castle and the battlefield where tens of thousands of troops did battle, and zooming in on each other as two human beings, the shoguns explored the possibility of reconciliation.

Zooming in and out on Japanese culture Takeo Funabiki explores an unlikely technique for understanding Japan’s complexities

IMAGES: PIXTA

apan is a relatively small island nation and – as you can tell by looking at Japanese rugby players – its people are traditionally small in stature. Still, large things have obviously always existed in Japan, and these often seem to be held in high regard. For example, there’s the 5th-century rectangular tombs built for an emperor in western Japan, which are up to a kilometre long on one side. One might also mention the 17th-century Edo Castle – now known as the Imperial Palace – which sits in the centre of Tokyo yet is surrounded by an over three-mile long jogging course. In nature, we have Mt Fuji (3,776m), once viewable from anywhere in Edo (Tokyo). As Hokusai depicts in his ‘Thirty-six Views of Mt Fuji’ series, the peak was beloved by Edoites precisely for its majestic scale. Even when it comes to human size, Japan has its giants: the average sumo wrestler weighs 150kg, and it isn’t uncommon for them to exceed 180kg. Although now

retired, sumo wrestler Konishiki weighed in at over 275kg – a fact that made him tremendously popular. Size matters So, with the Japanese being small people on small islands, is this appreciation of the large a yearning for what we ourselves don’t have? That could well be one explanation. But as the observant among you may already have noticed, the aforementioned sumo wrestler’s ring name, Konishiki, means ‘small beauty’. Subtlety and smallness have significant value in Japanese culture. For example, the famous ‘netsuke’ are miniature sculptures, every piece of nigiri is a tiny sushi masterpiece, and rooms used for the tea ceremony are in some cases only 3.3 square metres in size. How is it that these inclinations for both big and small co-exist? One of the cultural genres that best captures this idea is ukiyo-e (woodblock print) art. Ukiyo-e represent all things that exist in the ‘floating world’ (ukiyo), though the

most popular subjects are arguably Mt Fuji and human reproductive organs. Artists like Hokusai portrayed the large mountain as a small object between crashing waves or pieces of wood worked on by a carpenter – ‘zooming out’ and placing Mt Fuji in the background. On the other hand, in shunga (erotic art), the artist ‘zooms in’ on particular parts of human bodies, portraying these with great detail, down to individual hairs. ‘Zooming’ in and out of culture Then, how are these two ‘zooms’ viewed in Japanese culture? I shouldn’t need to explain how the zoom effect works with bonsai trees: you zoom out on a centuries-old pine and get a bonsai tree only 10cm high. Then again, looking at that same bonsai tree, you can zoom in and imagine a massive pine deep in the forest. Moving on to another relationship that

A new perspective on Tokyo To summarise, the pleasure of zooming in and out is a common technique that highlights a central aspect of Japanese culture. It’s also a concept that can be used when you next explore Tokyo. Tokyo is, most likely, the largest city in the world right now, both in terms of population and size of urban area. And as you might have guessed, the vast, highly advanced, village-like city incorporates ‘zooming’ into its structure. Knowing this is key to exploring Tokyo. Zooming in on Tokyo refers to specific urban activities being centred on specific areas. There’s the bookstore district, with nearly 200 secondhand book shops. And an area packed full of shops dealing only in kitchenware. There’s also the electronics district, the musical instrument district, the anime merchandise neighbourhood and more. Take the train from Tokyo for 30 minutes and you’ll arrive at a place packed with bonsai shops and museums. By entering these districts, consumers are zooming out and enjoying the scale before zooming in and choosing a specific shop to enter. Of course, looking for a specific product is just like shopping anywhere else. What’s different, however, is that when you enter a certain specialist area, zoom out by placing yourself in a world of tens of thousands of bonsai trees, and then find and zoom in on a single tree. This lends an entirely new dimension to your experience.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 73

You know you’re in Tokyo when…

e’ve all been there. You’re ready to hit the town with a bunch of friends but first you need to decide on a meeting spot to gather them all together. But since you picked the landmark that every single other person in town is meeting at, finding your friends in the crowd winds up a complicated chore. Kind of defeats the purpose of an easy-to-find spot, don’t you think? Instead, for a simple meet-andgo, try one of these alternative connection points (which we’ve star-rated out of five according to how unique they are).

You say: ‘I’ll meet you at the spider’

Maman, the giant spider (Roppongi) So many different places to meet up in Roppongi. How to choose? Almond café’s pink exterior makes it stand out, of course. But it, and others, just can’t hold a candle to Maman. I mean... it’s a giant spider! And it’s so big that you can wait underneath it! And it’s right next to really famous companies like Goldman Sachs and Google! If your friend is taking a while to arrive, use the extra time to spot Maman’s giant egg sac. Zero stars. It’s in Roppongi, sorry.

Oazo (Tokyo Station)

Hachiko mural (Shibuya) You read that right – the mural. Sure, the Hachiko statue is fun the first couple of times but it’s surrounded by dozens of people almost 24/7, not to mention clouds of cigarette smoke that have drifted over from the neighbouring smoking area. The mural is actually closer to the station and not nearly as crowded. Come out of the Hachiko exit and look for the doggy rainbows on the JR line’s outer wall. ★★★★ You’d think it’d be more popular but it’s so underused that you’ll spot your friends immediately. For when you’ve graduated to intermediate-level gaijin.

Business lunch? Friend arriving from out of town? The Gin-nosuzu (Silver Bell) may be the ‘official’ meeting spot inside Tokyo Station but it’s buried in the basement and even locals have a hard time finding it. For Tokyo Station meetups, direct people to your favourite store in the neighbouring Oazo shopping centre, accessible from the Marunouchi North Exit. My favourite shop? The Englishlanguage section in the Maruzen bookstore. ★★★★★ Books and restaurants make this the perfect place to wait out a plane or zangyo (work overtime) delay.

Want to impress a friend or colleague on a visit to Japan? If they’re taking an express train from the airport or another city into town, this is your big chance. Once they get on the train, have them send you a photo of their ticket. Then, buy an entrance ticket (入場券) and use the photo they sent to identify which train car they’ll be departing from. The stations do a great job of marking exactly where on the platform the car opens. Be sure to bring a bottle of their favourite drink for maximum omotenashi (hospitality) points! ★★★★★ This is advanced and might require a bit of Japanese reading comprehension but it’s hands-down the best way to welcome someone to Tokyo.

Studio Alta (Shinjuku) Shinjuku’s eponymous station is the most popular train station in the world and would certainly win the Guinness for most labyrinthic, if such a thing existed. Do not try to meet someone in Shinjuku Station. Ever. Unless you happen to have the hours necessary to navigate the abyss. Instead, try the entrance of Studio Alta, which is easily spotted due to being right below a big dang television screen. If you can navigate the subway section of the station, use the B13 exit on a rainy day to get there without having to walk outside. ★★ It’s easy to find and big enough to handle a crowd but it is popular enough that there are usually other groups waiting too.

In the next issue of Time Out Tokyo… Secret city

Discover a different side of Tokyo with our guide to hidden attractions across the city.

74 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Available across Tokyo from July

WORDS: BENJAMIN BOAS, ILLUSTRATIONS: KENTO IIDA

Meetups

On the shinkansen/ Narita Express train platform