Issue 11: Things Are Not What They Seem by Time Out Tokyo

SUNT 10 号よ

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Hello Tokyo…

Inside

Hey, come a little closer and keep your voice down: we’ve got some city secrets to share. Flip over to page 18 for a bonanza of Tokyo sights, eats, shops and things to do off the beaten path – or far from any path altogether, if that’s how you roll. Our guide will take you underground, high up and down narrow alleyways, into black baths, an industrial fridge and face to face with a genuine humanoid. So get off the couch, open your mind and prepare to explore another side of the city this summer.

July-September 2016

PAGE 18

New openings Eat here now

PAGE 34

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Fuji Rock 20 years of rock

PAGE 50

PHOTO ©MASANORI NARUSE

Let’s dance

Get out of town

PAGE 62

PAGE 56

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Yay for legal booty-shaking

The best day trips

â FEATURES AND REGULARS 06 Tokyo Update 12 To Do 15 Courtesy calls 18 Secret city: From androids to zen gardens 34 Eating & Drinking 39 Shopping & Style 46 Art & Culture 50 Music 54 Nightlife 59 Film 60 LGBT 61 Sport 62 Travel & Hotels 68 Getting Around 74 You know you’re in Tokyo when… Cover Art direction: Steve Nakamura Photography: Katsumi Omori Hair and makeup: Minako Suzuki Styling: Yasuhiro Takehisa (MILD) Clothing: Uemulo Munenoli Time Out Tokyo Inc. 5-9-9-101 Hiroo, Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0012 +81 (0)3 5792 5721 www.timeout.com/tokyo Advertising and general enquiries: info@timeout.jp

Consulting Editor Marcus Webb Editors Yukako Izumi izumi@timeout.jp Ili Saarinen ilisaarinen@timeout.jp Mayumi Koyama

koyama@timeout.jp Designers Yuki Masuko Chikako Fukui Staff Writers Kosuke Shimizu Kunihiro Miki Mari Hiratsuka

Shiori Kotaki Yasuhisa Shimbo Kisa Toyoshima Youka Nagase Satomi Saruwatari Yusuf Huysal Staff Photographer Keisuke Tanigawa

Administration Momo Ando Marketing Alex Shapiro Mao Kawakami Izana Takahashi Sales Assistant Takahiro Takeuchi

Distribution Takaki Matsuda Content Director Commercial & Marketing Akiko Toya President/Publisher Hiroyuki Fushitani Chairman HIroshi Hasegawa

Time Out Digital 4th Floor, 125 Shaftesbury Avenue, London,WC2H 8AD www.timeout.com +44 (0)207 813 3000

International Managing Director David Woodley CEO Noel Penzer Time Out Group CEO Julio Bruno Founder Tony Elliott

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

Tokyo Update

City FAQ DO TATTOO ARTISTS NEED TO BE DOCTORS?

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Sounds like a ridiculous question, but the letter of Japanese law suggests that just might be the case – as Osaka-based tattooist Taiki Masuda found out in August last year. Masuda was raided by local police and fined ¥300,000 for practicing his craft without a medical license. Under Japanese law, ‘the act of using a needle to administer ink’ has been classified as a ‘treatment’, so technically all tattoo artists need a medical license. Japan has a fraught relationship with tattoos: the practice is still associated with the yakuza and organised crime, and inked individuals are banned from the majority of onsens and gyms. When Japan announced its first naked restaurant is to open in Tokyo on July 29, the rules stated that tattooed patrons would not be allowed in. Masuda, meanwhile, is fighting back with his Save Tattooing movement. You can go to his website savetattooing.org and sign the petition to argue that a tattoo, rather than a medical, license is all you need to be an artist.

HANARE

This hotel shuns chain anonymity and encourages its guests to embrace the city and live like a local. Hanare’s staff will introduce you to gorgeous shrines, shops that sell local crafts and the restaurants Tokyoites eat at. Located in a down-to-earth district, Yanaka, the homely hotel has four two-person bedrooms and another three-person bedroom, all with tatami mat floors. à tinyurl.com/TOThanare © PEANUTS WORLDWIDE LLC

We asked our readers to comment on how tattoo artists in Japan are forced to get a medical license...

‘When will Japan start accepting tattoos as a form of art?’ ‘Another of the many grey areas of Japanese law that needs to be addressed right away. Japan has such a rich tattoo culture and it deserves better than this ridiculous witch-hunt.’ ‘…it probably would be good to have a proper licensing system […]’

TOKYO LOVES...

SNOOPY

Charlie Brown fans in Tokyo sure have it good: hot on the heels of the opening of the Peanuts Cafe in Nakameguro last year comes Roppongi’s Snoopy Museum. A foreign outpost of the Charles M. Schulz Research Center in Santa Rosa, the Snoopy Museum is a temporary affair set to run until September 2018. Look out for original illustrations, personal sketches and all kinds of vintage 'Peanuts'-related items that Charles M Schulz, the mastermind behind the classic comic strip, created and owned throughout his life. àtinyurl.com/TOTsnoopy

GREEN TEA

An overflowing supply of artisan coffee shops is truly spoiling the city's caffeine addicts. But what about green tea? Thankfully, Kichijoji’s brand new Uni Stand café is here to provide the spark, offering matcha beverages made by the ultimate cha-rista (tea barista). àtinyurl.com/TOTgreentea Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

WHAT YOU SAID

‘We do not need tattoo anymore!!’ ‘Tattoo artists should have to prove that they can sterilise a needle, but that’s pretty much it.’ ‘…requiring them to have a full medical degree is a bit extreme.’

APP UP YOUR STYLE

WHERE IN TOKYO IS THIS? Every issue we’ll show you a picture of a Tokyo location that you may or may not recognise. This issue: One of the ‘Hundred Famous Views’, this vibrant oasis was captured by Edoera ukiyo-e master Utagawa Hiroshige in one of his most famous paintings.

PHOTO: ILI SAARINEN

à To find the answer visit tinyurl.com/ TOTwhereintokyo11.

BEST FOR Dressing for the

seasons Tokyo’s weather can change on a dime.A glance out the window may suggest shorts will be fine only to result in the risk of hypothermia come the evening.This app not only provides a weather forecast, but suggests outfits that suit both the elements and your fashion taste. Clothes are categorised in nine different levels from cold to hot, and have 180 different varieties of outfits to choose from.At present Oshare Weather is only available for women (sorry guys!). GET IT Free from the App store and Google Play.

BEST FOR Avid

Instagrammers Let people know the weather wherever you are with this Instagram-friendly app.There are 70 filters available which overlay various weather data - from temperature, location, to even rain and wind power - over your snaps.The frame is squared for the perfect Instagram post. GET IT Free from the App store and Google Play.

SAMURAI-STUDIO

Japan loves vending machines and Japan loves photo booths, so why not combine the two? That’s exactly what Kirin, Line and Intel have joined forces to do with the Vendorphoto. Every time you buy a drink from one of the machines dotted around the city you can strike a pose to get a free photo, complete with cute character-themed backgrounds, just like the ubiquitous photo booths you see around town. The images are sent to you through the Line app. Not only does it function as a photo booth, but this smart coin-gobbler provides commuting updates, weather reports and even emergency earthquake and tsunami alerts.

OSHARE WEATHER

INSTAWEATHER

PICTURE PERFECT

VENDORPHOTO

Don’t settle with a boring old weather app

Embrace your inner warrior at the Samurai Armour Photo Studio in Shibuya. This studio decked with Japanese scrolls and fabrics boasts exact replicas of kacchu (samurai armour) worn by legendary warriors such as Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Sanada Yukimura and Kuroda Nagamasa – not to mention a copy of the red outfit donned by Tom Cruise in ‘The Last Samurai’ – and lets anyone try them on (for a small fee, of course). A standard photo session includes five poses, each shot 10 to 15 times, and sets you back a cool ¥13,000 – with the exception of Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s armour, which costs ¥40,000 to don. The price includes an SD card containing all the photos taken while prints can be ordered for an extra ¥1,000 per photo. à tinyurl.com/TOTsamuraistudio

FUNNY OR DIE WEATHER BEST FOR Laughing in the rain

What’s missing from your average weather forecast? Jokes. Enter comedy website, Funny or Die? and its weather app. Here a comedian presents the weather, mixing rain warnings with punchlines. It also provides pithy summaries of what the weather is like which you can easily share with friends. GET IT Free from the App store and Google Play. July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

TOKYO UPDATE

LOCAL LEGENDS

FOR HALF A DECADE NOW

Chalkboy has been turning menus into masterpieces. He started his career working as a waiter looking to scratch his creative itch while on the clock. Once a week each member of staff at the coffee shop he worked at was given 30 minutes to write that week’s menu on the board. Most people could chalk up the three items in ten minutes, but Chalkboy – wanting to capitalise on the entire half hour– started taking his time to craft a thing of beauty. He browsed the beer and wine labels on the counter, mimicking the fancy fonts on the board. When he finished the customers applauded and soon his days of bussing tables were over. Chalkboy now travels around Japan with chalk in hand, going from cafés to clothing stores, turning blackboards into billboards. Despite the schoolroom equipment, it isn’t as simple as it looks – and he is now sharing his skills through a series of workshops and a new book: ‘What a HandWritten World!’. Aside from being Tokyo’s go- to chalk maestro, Chalkboy has an interesting sideline. Under the moniker Eatbeat!, he records eating and cooking sounds with chefs and turns them into music, which he both records and performs live. While he enjoys the music, art remains his true love and – despite being adept with ink and paint – chalk is still his goto material. ‘I like the distinctiveness of chalk,’ he explains. ‘Sometimes it would write thick, sometimes thin, it’s erasable, but doesn’t disappear completely, it leaves a white stain. These sound like disadvantages, but that’s what I like about it. It has a certain appeal to it that no other writing utensil has.’ We are talking in the shadow of his latest piece, a huge bird mural at Bird Daikanyama café. ‘That took two hours to create,’ he smiles. Even after all these years Chalkboy still likes to take his time... PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

#11: Chalkboy

Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

à To find out about upcoming Chalkboy classes see instagram. com/chalkboy.me and hear Eatbeat! music at eatbeat.jp

NEW OPENINGS

CAFE HABANA

Daikanyama club Sankeys got a nice boost in business this spring when this New Yorkborn Cuban eatery set up shop in the same building. Pre-funking partiers can chow down on extra-messy but oh-so-delicious Mexican-style grilled corn cobs and hearty Cuban sandwiches, while the lunch crowd can look forward to lighter but still largely meaty fare. à tinyurl.com/TOTcafehabana

SULBING HARAJUKU

Since starting life in Busan back in 2013, pudding pusher Sulbing has expanded at breakneck pace and now operates in over 500 locations in South Korea. Now it has set its sights on Japan, choosing Harajuku for its first outpost here. The house specialty is powder-soft shaved ice sprinkled with toppings such as soy powder, almonds and mochi, or fresh strawberries. Sulbing also serves warm sweets including injeolmi toast (topped with honey and mochi) and red bean buns. à tinyurl.com/TOTsulbing

OPENING SOON…

CITY DISPATCHES

SHIBA PARK HOTEL 151

THE BEST OF JAPAN IN 4 MINUTES

Directed by Vincent Urban, a New York- and Munich-based videographer who’s clearly prone to a spot of wanderlust, this four-minute extravaganza captures some of the highlights of Japan, including Asakusa, Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari shrine, Kiyomizu-dera, Miyajima and, of course, good old Mount Fuji. It’s easy to see why it raked up a cool 1.6 million views in little over a month.

The Shiba Park Hotel’s new branch will open right next to the existing hotel this August. Tucked away in a quiet residential street, but a short stroll from both Daimon station and Ginza’s buzzing streets, it promises Japanese inn-style hospitality in a fantastic location. Workshops, including origami and calligraphy, are available at the Japanese Experience Salon Sakura, while the hotel also offers excursions to a local Bon dance show. à tinyurl.com/TOT151

à tinyurl.com/TOTbestofjapan

GINZA PLACE

Scheduled to open for business in summer 2016, the unimaginatively-named Place sits right by the Yonchome crossing near the Sony Building, and will tower over its neighbours both in terms of height and its impactful, all-white exterior designed by Klein Dytham Architects (the guys behind Daikanyama’s T-Site). No word on the shops or restaurants yet, but count on them not being very wallet-friendly. à tinyurl.com/TOTginzaplace

PAY WITH YOUR FINGERPRINTS IN 2020

LONG VÁ QUÁN

Yes, a simple fingerprint will let you shop to your heart’s content, with the system even automatically deducting the sales tax for foreigners. According to the Yomiuri newspaper, the system will initially be trialled in 300 shops across the country during summer 2016, centred on tourist hotspots like Hakone and Kamakura. The aim is to have nationwide coverage, including Tokyo, up and running by 2020.

Rising up underneath the elevated railway tracks close to Shimokitazawa Station, this temporary food stall and stand bar hub is set to stay in action for the next three years – presumably that’s how long it’ll take local developers to come up with a more profitable use for the space. In addition to the grub selection, draws will include art events and nighttime markets.

à tinyurl.com/TOTfingerprints

à tinyurl.com/TOTlongva

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

THE INFOGRAPHIC

Tokyo’s firework festivals Summertime is fireworks season in Tokyo, with displays lighting up the sky across the city. We’ve gathered together the biggest and best upcoming festivals along with the estimated number of fireworks they’ll be detonating. For full listings see tinyurl.com/TOTfireworks2016.

20,000

15,000

ESTIMATE NUMBER OF FIREWORKS

14,000 13,500 12,000

8,000

6,000 5,000 4,000 3,300

1,500 1,000 500

Chofu (Aug 21)

Tamagawa (Aug 20)

Jingu Gaien (Aug 20)

Ogasawara (Aug 13)

Okutama Noryo (Aug 13)

Ome Noryo (Aug 6)

Itabashi (Aug 6)

Edogawa (Aug 6)

Koto (Aug 1)

Hinode (Jul 30)

Hachioji (Jul 30)

Tachikawa (Jul 30)

Sumida River (Jul 30)

Katsushika Noryo (Jul 26)

Adachi (Jul 23)

Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

DO TIMEOUT.COM/TOKYO

What’s on in town July-September 2016

DON’T MISS

THINGS TO DO POOL WAI Yomiuri Land’s summer-only outdoor pool area is opening again, so get ready to enjoy a total of five pools, several water slides and lots of fun events – how about chilling in the Anpanman pool before heading over to the curvy slides and the tidal joys of the ‘wave pool’? Adults will also enjoy the night-time beer garden which is spread out on one of the nearby lawns. àJul 1-Sep 11. 4015-1 Yanokuchi, Inagi. tinyurl.com/TOTpoolwai1. Pool entrance ¥3,200, high school and junior high students ¥2,500, younger children ¥2,100. One-day pass (includes unlimited rides at the theme park and pool entrance) ¥6,000/¥5,300/¥5,000.

Pool Wai

perhaps along with Italian comedy ‘God Willing’.

JULY

àJul 16-Aug 19. B1F Nowa Bldg, 3-37-12 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. tinyurl.com/TOTqualite. New movies ¥1,500, others ¥1,000.

MUSIC selection of grub, traditional handicrafts, fun workshops and much more. Don’t miss the parade on Saturday, when revellers will carry a very funky mikoshi (portable shrine) around the entire park before arriving at the main stage for a colourful party.

THINGS TO DO

IRIYA ASAGAO MATSURI THINGS TO DO

OEDO GOLDFISH WONDERLAND

Themed on old Edo and its cultural traditions, the Sumida Aquarium’s Edorium area will be decorated in summer festival style with goldfish lanterns and ‘fuurin’ wind bells, while the goldfish display zone – the largest of its kind in Japan – will also be spruced up for the occasion. Kid-friendly workshops will be taking place as well, while the cafés will be serving up goldfish-themed tipples. àJul 1-Sep 30. Tokyo Skytree Town Solamachi 5-6F, 1-1-2 Oshiage, Sumida. tinyurl.com/TOTgoldfish. Adults ¥2,050, high school ¥1,500, junior high and elementary ¥1,000, children ¥600. Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

It’s worth getting up early – as in crack-of-dawn early – for Japan’s largest morning glory festival, held on July 6-8 every year in and around Iriya Kishimojin temple. Around 400,000 people head to the event each year, perusing the 120 flower booths and hundredodd festival stalls on display, so prepare to battle some serious crowds.

àJul 9-10. 1-6 Hibiya Koen, Chiyoda. tinyurl.com/ TOTafricahibiya. Free.

FILM

QUALITE FANTASTIC! CINEMA COLLECTION 2016

àJul 6-8. 1-12-16 Shitaya, Taito. tinyurl.com/ TOTasagaomatsuri. Free.

Shinjuku’s Cinema Qualite holds its annual festival in summer this year, again highlighting an international cast of indie flicks, including a few previously unreleased in Japan. Richard Linklater’s new and nostalgic sports comedy ‘Everybody Wants Some!!’ should be worth catching,

THINGS TO DO

AFRICA HIBIYA FESTIVAL

It’s time to celebrate the endless diversity of Africa in Hibiya Park, where stalls representing dozens of countries will be set up to entice visitors with an international

LEE ‘SCRATCH’ PERRY

Celebrating his 80th birthday with a Fuji Rock appearance this summer, the man who pioneered modern studio sonics, invented slash-and-fade mixing and kickstarted Marley’s Wailers will also be stopping by Liquidroom for this sun-splashed bash. In a nod to the Kingston studio where most of his smoke-fuelled innovation happened in the ‘70s, Perry himself will be performing a ‘Best of Black Ark’ set with his band. àJul 20. 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTscratchperry. ¥6,000.

THINGS TO DO

NEW BON ODORI

First held in 2009, this fun event is great for anyone wanting to try their hand at traditional obon dancing. Run by Ryohei Kondo and his contemporary dance

troupe Condors, the New Bon Odori, now a two-day affair, is best enjoyed in yukata and with an adventurous attitude. Oh, and don’t worry even if you’re unsure of the steps – improvisation is highly encouraged. àJul 16-17. Ikebukuro West Gate Park, 1-8-26 NishiIkebukuro, Toshima. tinyurl.com/TOTnewbon. Free.

MUSIC

ROBERT GLASPER EXPERIMENT

Taking time out of his busy postFuji Rock schedule for three nights of Tokyo gigs, innovative pianist and producer Robert Glasper brings his Experiment to Roppongi’s Billboard Live in late July. Having made waves on the jazz scene with the Grammywinning ‘Black Radio’ album and its sequel ‘Black Radio 2’, the Houston native has a strong following in Japan. àJul 25-27. Tokyo Midtown Garden Terrace 4F, 9-7-4 Akasaka, Minato. tinyurl.com/TOTrobertglasperexp. ¥9,800/¥8,300.

THINGS TO DO

GEGEGE: SHIGERU MIZUKI’S WORLD OF YOKAI

This ‘pop-up theme park’ at Sunshine City lets visitors dive deep into the world of ‘GeGeGe no Kitaro’ and other yokai (supernatural creatures from Japanese folklore) tales. In addition to original illustrations and other still displays, you can look forward to exploring an interactive ‘Yokai Mansion’ and a monster-filled ‘Yokai Forest’. Despite the ghastly theme, the show should be suitable for visitors of all ages. àJul 26-Aug 29. 3-1-1 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima. tinyurl.com/TOTgegege. Adults ¥1,500, high school and junior high students ¥1,200, elementary students and younger ¥500.

weaving, embroidery and other handicrafts. àJul 29-31, Aug 5-7. Pario Machida, 1-15-13 Morino, Machida. tinyurl.com/TOTnunohaku1. Adults ¥500, elementary students and younger free.

million spectators.

àAug 13. Sumida Park, Mukojima, Sumida. tinyurl. com/TOTtoronagashi. Free.

àAug 27. Umamichi-dori, 2 Hanakawado, Taito. tinyurl.com/TOTasakusasamba. Free.

MUSIC

THINGS TO DO

Brooklyn’s R&B stalwart Maxwell has been at the top of his game for two decades now. He’s due to release his longawaited fifth studio disc this July, so listen to the lead single, ‘Lake By The Ocean’, and book tickets to the neo-soul master’s August gig – his Japan debut, unbelievably enough.

An annual affair in Koganei Park, this open-air noh and ‘kyogen’ (traditional comic theatre) performance takes place in front of the Edo-Tokyo Open-Air Architectural Museum’s main gate. With contemporary and ballet dancers participating in the show, it makes for a rare combination of traditional and modern performing arts.

MAXWELL

FILM

STARDUST THEATRE IN HARAMURA

An annual summer highlight for Kanto folks fond of watching movies in the great outdoors, this open-air film festival returns to Nagano’s picturesque Yatsugatake Natural & Culture Park for its 31st edition. Head out into the mountains for beautiful 35mm films, projected onto a massive screen, and enjoy an offbeat cinematic experience under the starry sky far away from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo.

àAug 19. Studio Coast, 2-2-10 Shinkiba, Koto. tinyurl.com/TOTmaxwell. Standing ¥8,500, balcony ¥10,500.

ARABIAN FESTIVAL

TAIWAN FESTA 2016

The last weekend of July will see a slew of dance and music performances by both Taiwanese and local artists in Yoyogi Park, plus a very strong food stall showing – as is to expected of a country known for its world-class street grub scene.

THINGS TO DO

CHOFU SUMMER FIREWORKS

Chofu builds on the success of the past few years for its 34th annual firework celebration, celebrating its connection to the movie industry in an explosive way. Dubbed ‘City of Cinema: Chofu Summer Fireworks’, this festival sees around 8,000 rockets launched over the river, choreographed to popular film scores.

àJul 30-31. 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTtaiwanfesta. Free.

AUGUST MUSIC

CERO PRESENTS ‘TRAFFIC’

àAug 21. Banks of the Tama River, Tamagawa, Chofu. tinyurl.com/TOTchofufireworks. Free.

Tokyo three-piece Cero remain one of the hottest names on Japan’s alt-rock scene, having managed to build on the success of 2012 hit album ‘My Lost City’. Since releasing 2015 long-player ‘Obscure Ride’, an eclectic mix of indie rock, neo-soul and R&B, they’ve been busy touring the country and now hit Studio Coast with an all-new show.

THINGS TO DO

All things textile-related can be seen and experienced in Machida when this massive celebration of fabrics, clothing, bags, embroidery art and much more takes over for two consecutive weekends. The first weekend is dedicated to all things skirt-related, with designers, craftspeople and other creatives showing off their wares, while the second part is themed on

First held at the 1946 ‘Festival of Recovery’ when much of Tokyo was still in ruins, the hauntingly beautiful Toro Nagashi lantern light-up was revived in 2005 after a 40-year break and now takes place in Sumida Park between Azumabashi and Kototoibashi. You can light your own lantern for ¥1,500, but enjoying the magnificent view of glittering fires on the Sumida River on a cool

àAug 28. 3-7-1 Sakuracho, Koganei. tinyurl.com/ TOT38koganei. SS seats ¥8,000, S seats ¥6,000, A seats ¥4,000, A seats for students ¥2,000.

THINGS TO DO

38TH KOGANEI TAKIGI-NOH

SEPTEMBER

àJul 29-Aug 21 (except Aug 5, 6). Yatsugatake Natural & Culture Park, 17217-1613 Haramura, Suwa-gun, Nagano. tinyurl.com/TOT31stardust.

THINGS TO DO

ASAKUSA SAMBA CARNIVAL

More than 20 teams of elaborately attired dancers flood the streets of Asakusa for Japan’s largest samba carnival, shaking their tail feathers to the Brazilian beat as they work their way through the neighbourhood. The carnival is now one of Tokyo’s more popular summer events, drawing half a

àAug 11. 2-2-10 Shinkiba, Koto. tinyurl.com/ TOTcero. ¥5,200.

NUNO-HAKU

summer night is completely free.

Take a break from Tokyo’s many Southeast Asian and Latin festivals to celebrate Arabian culture at Yoyogi Park in September. Watch belly dancers and musicians crowd the stage while you munch on traditional Arabic food, get a henna tattoo done or sit down to smoke some shisha. àSep 10-11. Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTarabianfes. Free.

THINGS TO DO

MOON-WATCHING AT MUKOJIMA HYAKKAEN

An Edo-era flower garden founded over 200 years ago, Mukojima Hyakkaen extends its opening hours over three days for this traditional moon-watching event, which includes lanternlighting, tea ceremonies and koto playing. Held at a time when summer gives way to autumn, this one should be great for anyone looking for remains of old Edo in the bustling city. àSep 14-16. 3-18-3 Higashi-Mukojima, Sumida. tinyurl.com/TOTmoonwatchingmukojima. Adults ¥150, seniors ¥70, children aged 12 or younger free.

ASAKUSA TORO NAGASHI

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

THINGS TO DO

TOKYO ART BOOK FAIR 2016

This event bills itself as the biggest art book fair in Asia, with over 300 publishers, gallery presses and independent creators regularly taking part. Head down for exhibitions, talks, screenings and, of course, more books than you can shake a stick at. àSep 16-19. Tohoku University of Art & Design Gaien Campus, 1-7-15 Kita-Aoyama, Minato. tinyurl. com/TOTartbook2016.

MUSIC

BLUE NOTE JAZZ FESTIVAL IN JAPAN 2016

New York’s top jazz fest makes another one-day excursion to Yokohama, setting up a stage at the Red Brick Warehouse for big-time artists including fusion veteran George Benson and

Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

every two years you can witness portable mikoshi shrines being carried up these lucky stairs at the Shusse no Ishidan Festival. The climax sees a lit-up mikoshi ferried all the way to the top

legendary Chicago outfit Earth, Wind & Fire. Maurice White, EWF’s founder, sadly passed away this year having retired in the ’90s. But his brother Verdine White, along with Philip Bailey and Ralph Johnson, still lead a riotous show full of pyramids, space-ships, levitation, and of course monster hits like ‘Shining Star’, ‘September’ and ‘Boogie Wonderland’.

while the assembled masses roar with excitement. Note that the mikoshi will only be out on September 22. àSep 21-24. 1-5-3 Atago, Minato. www.atago-jinja. com/event. Free.

Shusse no Ishidan Festival

àSep 17. 1-1 Shinko, Naka, Yokohama. tinyurl.com/ TOTbluenote2016. Standing ¥10,800, A seats ¥19,000, S seats ¥26,000.

THINGS TO DO

NAMASTE INDIA

The nation’s biggest Indian festival returns with traditional music and dance performances, including a healthy smattering of Bollywood to keep the kids entertained. You can also try wearing a sari, relax with yoga, enter raffles or check out the plentiful food booths – participants include some of Tokyo’s top Indian eateries.

THINGS TO DO

ATAGO SHRINE ‘SHUSSE NO ISHIDAN’ FESTIVAL

Atago Shrine is home to an 86-step stone staircase, also known as the ‘Staircase to Promotion’ (shusse no ishidan). Once

àSep 24-25. Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTnamasteindia. Free.

How to queue in line like a Tokyoite

Courtesy calls

QUEUING IN JAPAN is an art form. Everyone

says ‘the Japanese just love queuing,’ but it is more than that. There’s a beauty in the order. Picture the trains at rush hour: well-mannered travellers wait in perfectly formed lines for the train carriage to open. And when the doors part, the queuers wait for the last passenger to disembark before they file in, until they are pressed against the glass (still in order, of course). No matter what time it is, there are no line jumpers, complainers or people breaking rank. If you want to line up like a pro, here are the essentials.

ILLUSTRATION: BUNNY BISSOUX

DO: LEARN HOW TO ENJOY IT

You’ve got to go zen. There’s no point fighting the time-suck of queuing in Tokyo, so see it as a form of delayed gratification. Time pressed against a random stranger in the rain builds anticipation of the meal, gadget, fukubukuro (‘lucky bag’), concert or commute that will follow. You’ve invested precious time in this, so you’d better enjoy it.

Grace Buchele Mineta and Marcus Webb

DON’T: FORGET YOUR NEIGHBOURS

A discreet chat with your friend is okay. Loudly Facetiming your grandmother on your phone is not. You’re going to be spending the next 30 minutes with your line-mates: they don’t need to know about nana’s bunions.

DO: LINE UP SOME ROMANCE

True love waits. Queuing can be a surprisingly fun date: it’s just you, them, 20 minutes to an hour of awkward small-talk and an assortment of eavesdropping strangers. Plus if things go badly, you can turn and run knowing they’ll be loath to give up their place in the queue.

DON’T: SAVE A SPOT

When you see that long line snaking around the block, it’s tempting to send one person to stand in line while everyone else waits somewhere with seats, air conditioning and alcohol. That is a no-go in Japan. Most establishments will not seat you unless the entire party is there and

it is extremely frowned upon to let a friend or family member join you at the head of the line. You don’t want to provoke the Tokyo Tut.

DO: PLAY QUEUE ROULETTE

In Tokyo, long lines usual signify ‘there’s something exciting over here!’ so join in, no matter what it is. Dress comfortably (skip the heels, ladies), pack enough for a fortnight in all weathers and file in. It could be a gourmet dining experience, it may be a gig by your soonto-be favourite band, it may be a revolutionary fungal treatment: if you don’t join you’ll never know.

DON’T: STAND STILL

You never know when a flash queue might occur. One minute you are standing outside a doorway trying to remember where you left your shopping list, the next you’ve caused queuemageddon with people lining up behind you presuming you are in the know. July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

LOCAL INSIGHT

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I, TOKYO

Najib El-Khash Reporter/Producer at Risala Media Founder: Arab-Asian Network Age: 42 Did you come to Japan to be a reporter? No, I studied filmmaking in London and I came to Japan on a scholarship for graduate students in cultural studies. I started writing some articles for Arabic newspapers in my spare time, then I started reporting for Arabic television stations. Because of my background in studying filmmaking, TV work was relatively easy to get into. Gradually my work took over my studies. As a journalist who reports news all over the world, what are some of the things you take into account when reporting? I try to achieve a balance between what viewers and readers want to hear and what I want to say. I also try to imagine what Japanese people featured in my reports would say if they understood Arabic and had the chance to see the resulting reports. It is very easy to fall into stereotypes that Arabic audiences are already familiar with, and that make a report easier to consume, but I believe a reporter should emphasise information that contradicts commonly-held perceptions. The key is to do this in a way that does not alienate people. What has been the most exciting project you have worked on so far? Going to shoot the Nebuta Festival in Aomori city, which is world famous, and then going deeper into the prefecture and discovering the under-publicised but amazing Tachi Neputa festival in Goshogawara. It was as if Aomori was showering me with visually stunning gifts to shoot. That ended with a nice soak at a fabulous outdoor hot spring called Furo-Fushi Onsen right on the sea shore, on the borders between Aomori and Akita prefectures. I also learned

about the rivalry between the two geographical ‘wings’ of Aomori prefecture, which made me feel less bad about rivalry and regionalism in my own culture. What has been your hardest project? Covering Tohoku over the past five years since the 3.11 disaster. From the turbulent early days up until now with the search for alternative energy sources, it has been hard. It has also been the most fulfilling project for me as a journalist, as it hasn’t been easy to keep Arabic media interested in the subject. When did you first feel like a Tokyoite? When I had to travel and work in other Asian countries in the early 2000s, I realised how much I enjoy having Tokyo as my home. NHK World’s programme app offers immediate news and other past shows via video on demand. Why do you think it is important to have the latest news in the palm of your hand? Being in touch with what’s happening around us is indispensable in today’s world. It ranges from preserving our safety to finding interesting topics of conversation, but for me the most important benefit is to understand the current condition of the machine we live in - whether that is our community, country, or planet. Naturally we use our smartphones to manage large parts of our lives, from work to pleasure, so it should come naturally to get vital information from the same ‘beloved’ device. What’s your favourite cultural aspect in Japan? Japanese media and politicians are obsessed with the idea of foreigners being amazed with Japan. That can be heavy at times. But the Japanese individuals

and institutions who do really amazing stuff are often really humble and unpretentious. Their modesty makes them and their work even more impressive. I also love the genuine curiosity Japanese people have towards other cultures, and the fact that it’s a proactive curiosity. This has led to great and authentic food from all over the world being available in Tokyo. Any survival tips for city visitors? I noticed that visitors love how polite and helpful Japanese people are, but it’s important to keep in mind the trouble an unusual request can cause. My advice is to remember that (1) Japanese people tend to be perfectionists, and (2) no one is perfect!

To find out how you can get NHK WORLD TV 24/7 in your country,

I, GLOBAL Domo NHK’s mascot introduces Tokyo to the world

Five reasons why NHK World apps make your trip to Japan better

2 3 1 4 5

©NHK-TYO

HAVING TO NAVIGATE unfamiliar radio and TV channels means it can be hard to catch up with news and local programmes during a visit to a foreign country. Helping you stay on top of what’s going on, NHK World’s apps allow you to quickly catch the latest stories from not only Japan but all over the world – for free, anywhere and at any time through your portable device. Here are five reasons why you should download these super-convenient apps.

Unique programmes

Live Streaming

Watch up-to-the-minute domestic and international news in English with the live streaming function, which also gives you access to a wide range of other programmes. Recommended programme: Newsroom Tokyo

NHK World boasts a variety of programmes featuring in-depth introductions to Japanese culture and lifestyle, as well as views on important cultural issues you won’t find covered on other channels. Recommended programmes: Tokyo Eye 2020, Cool Japan

Video On Demand (VOD)

If you missed a programme, or want to dig through past episodes of your favourite series, the free VOD function will be of use. A total of 27 programmes are available right now. Recommended programmes: Dining with the Chef, Journeys in Japan and more!

Emergency information

One of NHK’s important roles is to serve as an information lifeline during major crises and natural disasters. Recommended programme: NHK Newsline

Radio

With the NHK World Radio Japan app, you can listen to programmes including news and other informative shows in English and 16 other languages. You can even learn some conversational Japanese with Easy Japanese, a language study programme. Recommended programmes: Easy Japanese, Radio Japan Focus

www.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/en/app

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Download the NHK World apps here for free!

on your TV, computer or mobile device, visit nhk.jp/nhkworld

Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

Secret Tokyo Meet Miss Ando, aka Actroid-F, our mysterious cover girl. Created by Japan’s National Institute of Advanced Industrial Science and Technology, she is one of a new generation of freakishly human-looking machines taking over the city. Turn the page to find out where to meet an android in the city – and how to uncover more of Tokyo’s unmissable secrets, from waterfalls to a museum dedicated to parasites… Contributors: Kisa Toyoshima, Kunihiro Miki, Ili Saarinen, Mari Hiratsuka, Matt Schley, Satomi Saruwatari, Shiori Kotaki, Mayumi Koyama, Yasuhisa Shimbo, Kosuke Shimizu, Youka Nagase, Yukako Izumi and Yusuf Huysal

KEY

UNMISSABLE PLACES

SECRET EATS & DRINKS

ESSENTIAL EXPERIENCES

AFTER DARK

SECRET SHOPS

Cover and this photo: Art Direction Steve Nakamura Photography Katsumi Omori Hair and makeup Minako Suzuki Styling Yasuhiro Takehisa (MILD) Shirt: Uemulo Munenoli Location: National Institute of Advanced Industrial Science and Technology, Tsukuba, Ibaraki

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

Secret Tokyo AO CORNER Homeliest Friday night hangout in town

Wander away from the bright lights of Nakameguro station and into the neighbourhood's residential streets to find this secret izakaya, which looks just like your average old Japanese house from the outside. Step in through the unmarked door and the scene changes – you've entered a welcoming, brightlylit space where the casual and friendly staff shuffle about while patrons enjoy beers and better-than-average Japanese pub staples such as tamagoyaki omelette and potato salad. After a few sips, you'll start feeling as relaxed as when drinking at home. à 3-14-23 Kamimeguro, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). 03 6451 0072. Daily 6pm-12midnight.

PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

ASADACHI Fancy a side of boar balls?

ANDROID AT ODAIBA TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE

à 1-2-14 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 3342 1083. tinyurl.com/TOTasadachi. 12noon-11pm, closed most Mondays.

As all Tokyoites know, the statue of Tokyo’s most famous pup is the ultimate meeting spot in Shibuya. But the city so loves dear Hachiko that one statue is simply not enough. Last year, to commemorate the 80th anniversary of his death, a new statue – funded by donations – was erected on the University of Tokyo campus next to Ueno Park. Hachiko’s owner, Hidesaburo Ueno, worked as a professor at the university and used to travel home to Shibuya station every day where his loyal companion would wait for him every evening. After Ueno’s death in 1925, legend has it that Hachiko continued to faithfully wait for him every day for another 10 years until his own death in 1935. Finally, the story has a happier ending as the new statue shows dog and master being reunited. And the whole of Tokyo collectively went ‘ahhhh’.

Odaiba’s Aqua City shopping complex might not be worth visiting if it weren’t for this otherwise ordinary-looking tourist info desk, manned by a robotic guide proficient in three languages. Chihira Junco, produced by electronics giant Toshiba, is a bona fide android who can point you to Odaiba’s wildest sights – or just the local Statue of Liberty replica – in English, Japanese or Chinese. She even performs songs together with ApriPetit, a much smaller fellow robot also stationed at the info desk, and looks almost human when viewed from afar. Junco most certainly wouldn’t pass the Voight-Kampff test from Blade Runner, used to tell androids and humans apart in Ridley Scott’s sci-fi classic, but she’s just about the best Japanese technology can come up with right now.

à 7-3-1 Hongo, Bunkyo (Todaimae Station).

à Aqua City Odaiba 3F, 1-7-1 Daiba, Minato (Daiba Station). tinyurl.com/ TOTodaibatourist. Daily 11am-9pm.

PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

ANOTHER HACHIKO That other dog statue

A tour guide from the future

Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

At this hole-in-the-wall spot – whose name, by the way, translates as 'morning wood' – they serve up such delights as grilled salamander, snake liquor and raw pig testicles. The talkative master will tell you all about the 'product', which is supposed to be great for, uh, stamina. Note that the opening hours are relatively subjective – go after 3pm or so though and you'll usually be safe.

CHEESE NO KOE Where to meet a real ‘cheese whisperer’

This natural cheese store located near Kiyosumi Park specialises in cheese from Hokkaido. The cheese concierge, also known as the ‘cheese whisperer’, not only helps you pick out the perfect kind of cheese, but is also highly knowledgeable about the production process. Learn about the art of crafting cheese while you navigate through the 300plus kinds on offer, and be sure to check out the ice cream machine in the corner too. à 1-7-7 Hirano, Koto (Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station). 03 5875 8023. tinyurl.com/ TOTcheesekoe. Daily 11am-7pm.

Secret Tokyo

CONVENIENCE STORE DJ

Drinks, doughnuts, DJs

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

This convenience store also holds a monthly DJ event that’s open to all those who can work out where it is. The event originally started when Yuichi Kishino wanted to create a space where neighbours could mingle with each other – and it draws a pretty eclectic crowd. The event costs ¥2,000 (including unlimited soft drinks and 4 cups of alcohol) and there’s an underground ‘chill space’ at which you can take a break from dancing and get something to eat. The exact location is a closely guarded secret, but clues are posted on the organiser’s twitter account (@kishinoyuichi) in Japanese. We are sworn to secrecy, but we can tell you it’s a store covered in records located near the Sumida River. It’s worth finding if you can.

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

TIMEOUT.COM/ TOKYO

Some come for the second hand vinyl and CDs, while others are drawn by Da Capo’s taiyaki, a fishshaped pastry filled with sweet bean paste. When you’re done digging for musical finds, bite into the faux fish’s head first – there’s a surprise flavour hidden in the tail. à 1-3-10 Higashi-Gotanda, Shinagawa (Gotanda Station). 03 3440 5708. Daily 12noon-7pm (or until supplies run out).

DEVA Buzz your way up to the night view

Press the intercom at the front entrance of one of the posh buildings overlooking Ebisu Park and you’ll gain entrance to an elevator that’ll take you up to Deva, a stylish hideout bar with plum views of the entire Shibuya area. In business since the late ‘90s, the spot is especially nice for date nights and other special occasions, and the (relatively) fair prices add to the attraction. Note that there’s a ¥500 cover charge every night.

PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

DA CAPO Fishy pastries at the record store

DOUGHNUT PLANT KICHIJOJI CENTRAL KITCHEN Where to sweeten up your evening

NYC-born Doughnut Plant has been churning out delicious doughnuts since 1994, and first set foot in Tokyo a full decade ago. Known for offerings like crème brûlée doughnuts and jelly-filled squares, the Plant caters to serious sugar-lovers, and is unafraid to go its own way in terms of flavours and business models. Take this Kichijoji shop: open only between 8pm and 1am, it sells three kinds of doughnuts, namely vanilla bean, chocolate and organic sugar, in addition to the curious ‘doughnut bread’. Recommended if you want to start your night with a sweet treat.

à UN Park Bldg 7F, 1-19-6 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 03 3463 6447. tinyurl.com/ TOTdeva. Mon-Sat 7pm-4am, closed Sun & hols.

à 2-18-16 Kichijoji-Higashicho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 230 558. tinyurl.com/TOTdplant. Sun-Thu 8pm-1am (closes when stock runs out).

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

PHOTO: YASUHISA SHIMBO

Secret Tokyo

HORUMON NABE MORIOKA GORO Be cool, eat guts

You’ll have to navigate your way through the bar-filled streets of Shinjuku-Sanchome to find this hot pot and grilled giblet specialist, marked only with a small sign on the wall. Once you spot it, head up the stairs: you’ll come across an ordinary bar entrance and a refrigerator door. Enter through the latter and find yourself in a retro hideout where the best thing on the menu is Horumon Nabe, a steaming mixture of pork offal, cabbage and tofu. Sounds simple, tastes incredible, gets addictive fast. à 2F, 3-7-7 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (ShinjukuSanchome Station). 03 3356 1656. 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-12midnight, Sun 5pm-11pm, closed Tue.

FACTORY NIGHT VIEW CRUISE PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

See the beauty in heavy industry

Discover the beauty in factories. No, really. You may not think a cruise through an industrial zone would warrant any attention, but come night-time, the cranes, power plants and factories are illuminated like a ‘castle of lights’ which your boat weaves through down mysterious, narrow canals.

HUB ASAKUSA Where the Big Easy meets Bass Pale Ale

à Book a cruise at www.yokohama-cruising.jp.

GINGAZA (GALAXY) PLANETARIUM Stars, monks and comedy

à B1F, 6-4-7 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03 5568 4552. ginza-hajime.com. Mon-Fri 6pm-3am, Sat 6pm-11pm, closed Sun & hols.

à 1-12-2 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 3843 1254. tinyurl.com/TOThubasa. Mon-Sat 6pm-11.30pm, Sun 5pm-10.30pm.

HAJIME Sake and snacks straight from the late ‘80s

If it wasn’t for the faux-Nasa space shuttle on the outer wall, you’d probably have a hard time finding this planetarium, hidden away far out in the wilds of Katsushika-ku. The Gingaza is located inside a Buddhist temple, making it the first of its kind in Japan (and most likely the world). Essentially a one-man show run by starstruck monk Kasuga, the planetarium features a different programme every month, with the show narrated live by Kasuga and a female assistant, who offer up plenty of informative tidbits and comedic value. The problem is getting a seat – reservations are taken only on specified booking days and even then if it is overbooked a lottery system is employed to decide who gets to come in. For those lucky few, however, the experience is unmissable. à Inside Shoganji Temple, 7-11-30 Tateishi, Katsushika (Keisei-Tateishi Station). tinyurl.com/TOTgingaza. 3pm-3.50pm on 1st and 3rd Sat of every month.

Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

With a tagline like ‘the place to appreciate the taste’, you’d think this hideout bar in Ginza offered slightly more sophisticated edibles. Not that there’s anything wrong with Hajime’s offbeat izakaya grub – it’s just that it’s severely overshadowed by the unique post-Bubble era décor, centred on a hypnotically glowing square counter.

It’s the British pub chain everybody loves to loathe, but even the most ardent Hub haters may be forced to revise their opinion after a trip to this Asakusa branch. Forget Little England: the model here is New Orleans, with live jazz, swing and dixieland performances every night (and a cover charge of up to ¥2,500 per person). Music aside, you can expect the usual staples – including fish and chips, beef stew and the quaffable Hub Ale – plus a few Asakusa-only innovations such as gumbo and a ‘New Orleans mojito’ made with Southern Comfort.

Secret Tokyo

IKEJIRI-OHASHI COFFEE TOWN

Every caffeine addict’s favourite ‘hood

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Ikejiri-Ohashi, a residential area located only a station away from Shibuya, is blessed with some seriously trendy coffee shops. Here’s where you’ll find Good People Good Coffee, which was chosen as Time Out Tokyo’s Best Coffee Shop of 2015, as well as Danish-owned café P.N.B. Coffee, which opened last year, and Jam Stand Coffee. All are excellent. à Ikejiri-Ohashi Station

à JP Tower 2-3F, 2-7-2 Marunouchi, Chiyoda. tinyurl.com/TOTintermedia. 11am-6pm (Fri, Sat until 8pm), closed Mon (Tue if Mon is hol).

SEE MORE TIMEOUT.COM/ TOKYO

SASU STREET ART Upbeat street art meets tacos and tipples

In addition to burritos and margaritas, visitors to Mexican joint Junkadelic in Nakameguro can look forward to a nice visual treat in the form of a mural by Sasu, one of Japan’s finest street artists. Sasu is perhaps best known as one half of art project Hitotzuki, in which her symmetrical flowers are combined with husband Kami’s flowing lines in murals that have beautified walls throughout Japan. Sasu’s distinctive flowers are inspired by her interest in symmetry and mandalas, and have been featured in exhibitions in Taipei, Hong Kong, Berlin and Los Angeles, not to mention the sides of Perrier bottles in a 2014 tie-up with the company. The mural outside Junkadelic, completed in 2009, is called ‘To remain calm and passionate’ or – as Sasu’s blog has it – represents overcoming hard times and combining calmness and passion into a single ball of positive feelings. In short: keep calm, stay passionate, look at art and eat some tacos. A finer manifesto we have never heard.

PHOTO: MARI HIRATSUKA

Jointly operated by Japan Post and the University of Tokyo, this multifaceted museum opened in 2013 inside the Kitte complex right by Tokyo Station but remains a niche spot despite its superb location. That's a real shame: the Intermediatheque is one of the city's few free museums and it displays the academic achievements of Japan's most celebrated educational institution, along with an extensive – and occasionally macabre – collection of zoological exhibits. So expect everything from taxidermy and skeletons to model ships and antique photography. Unlike many of the city’s smaller museums, there's explanatory text in English.

PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

INTERMEDIATHEQUE Old bones and cutting-edge tech in the heart of the city

KINGYOZAKA Goldfish games from the Edo era

It’s like something out of a Miyazaki film: imagine a 350-year old goldfish farm, whose pools swarm with schools of fish in every shape, size and colour you can think of, complete with a charming little restaurant housed inside a timber-framed farmhouse. And no, goldfish is not on the menu at Kingyozaka, which sits out on a quiet Hongo street, a stone’s throw from the University of Tokyo’s main campus. At lunchtime, locals settle in for the delicious and sizeable kaiseki (traditional multi-course) sets, served on tableware decorated with colourful fish, lest you forget where you are. Inside the restaurant, look for an old parchment hanging framed on one of the walls. It’s ostensibly a list inscribed with the names of combatants in a wrestling tournament of old, but there’s something fishy going on here. These entrants are not sumo wrestlers but goldfish, ranked according to strength, agility and slipperiness – understandable for a Meiji-era document commemorating a championship for goldfishscooping (kingyo sukui), the traditional game of dexterity in which participants try to scoop up evasive fishies using a flat dipper made of paper. If you don’t have bigger fish to fry (sorry), try your hand at this ancient game after lunch. You can take your spoils home, but please don’t try to cook them for dinner.

à 4-10-4 Kamimeguro, Meguro (Yutenji, Nakameguro stations). tinyurl.com/TOTjunkadelic.

à 5-3-15 Hongo, Bunkyo (Hongo-Sanchome Station). 03 3815 7088. tinyurl.com/TOTkingyo. Tue-Fri 11.30am-9.30pm, Sat, Sun & hols 11.30am-8pm, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is hol) and 3rd Thu of the month.

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

Secret Tokyo KITA-KORE BUILDING Fashion frenzy

Kita-Kore is Koenji’s most chaotic collection of alternative clothing stores. You’ll find unique brands like Hayatochiri, Southpaw, Garter and Ilil, as well as the office of contemporary artist collective ChimPom, which turns into a shop called Kane-Zanmai on weekends.

KITE MUSEUM One man’s ode to a high-flying hobby

This uplifting museum is a cornucopia of kites - there are samurai-printed kites, kites weaved out of giant Indonesian leaves and, erm, styrofoam kites in the shape of a huge iron. The former owner of the first-floor restaurant (one of Tokyo’s earliest forays into Western-style dining) spent a lifetime collecting the 300-plus kites which now cover the walls, pack display cases and crowd the ceiling. The restaurant is still there and now serves some of the best omurice (omelettewrapped fried rice) in the city. The museum is on the fifth floor, don’t expect detailed explanations of the exhibits; this is more of a private hobby on public display, as is often the case in Tokyo. The museum is not clearly marked – look for the long white sign on the building. à 5F, 1-12-10 Nihonbashi, Chuo (Nihonbashi Station). 03 3275 2704. tinyurl.com/TOTkite. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm, closed Sun & hols.

LES GRANDS ARBRES The city’s funkiest treehouse café

PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

à 3-4-13 Koenji-Kita, Suginami (Koenji Station). tinyurl.com/TOTkitakore.

MEGURO PARASITOLOGICAL MUSEUM

Hidden behind a handsome old tree – complete with treehouse – the Fleur Universelle flower shop makes quite an impression before you’ve even stepped inside. The first two floors are dedicated to the important business of hawking flora – but, much like Aoyama Flower Market and its in-house tea shop, this place isn’t content to leave it there. Head upstairs and you’ll find Les Grands Arbres (The Big Trees), a wood-decked café space serving focaccia sandwiches, deli salads and some rather good muffins. However the best seats in the house – assuming that it isn’t the peak of summer, at least – are to be found on the rooftop terrace. You can bring your dog, too.

Parasite power

This unusual venture was opened in 1953 by Satoru Kamegai, a doctor whose practice was overwhelmed by patients afflicted by parasites caused by the poor sanitary conditions that were widespread in post-war Japan. The museum displays some 300 specimens of 45,000 parasites he collected, 20 of which were discovered by his foundation. The second floor has a display of an 8.8m (29ft) tapeworm taken from the body of a 44-year-old man, with a ribbon next to it showing you just how long 8.8m really is. Ugh. The shop sells parasites preserved in plastic keyrings: ideal gifts for the freeloaders in your life. Entrance is free, but the museum encourages donations.

à 3F, 5-15-11 Minami-Azabu, Minato (Hiroo Station). 03 5791 1212. tinyurl.com/TOTarbres. Mon-Sat 11am-10pm, Sun 11am-7pm.

à 4-1-1 Shimomeguro, Meguro (Meguro Station). 03 3716 1264. tinyurl.com/TOTparasite. WedSun 10am-5pm, closed Mon, Tue.

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

METROPOLITAN AREA OUTER UNDERGROUND DISCHARGE CHANNEL Tokyo’s wet underbelly

Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

Maybe it’s because the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles are making a comeback, but there’s something thrilling about venturing into this world of tunnels. This massive surge tank, known as the ‘underground temple’, was completed in 2006 and is the world’s largest underground flood water diversion facility. It’s made up of five shafts approximately 70 metres high, which are connected by a 6.3km tunnel; a pressurecontrolled water tank; and 59 huge pillars, which are linked to pumps that direct water into the Edo River. It was built because the area around this structure collects water very easily, leading to flooding every time there’s heavy rain. Now, when the area floods, rainwater drains into the underground discharge channel and gets pumped up into the river. Because of its mysterious atmosphere, the structure is often used for music videos and photo shoots, and has become an unlikely tourist attraction as guided tours explain what happens when the worst happens. If your Japanese isn’t up to par, note that you’ll need to ask a Japanese-speaking friend to accompany you or make friends with somebody there – it’s a health and safety thing. Speaking of which... as you’d expect no visitors are allowed on days of heavy rain. à 720 Kamikanasaki, Kasukabe, Saitama (Minami-Sakurai Station, then 10min by taxi). 048 747 0281. www.ktr.mlit.go.jp/edogawa/gaikaku.

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5 secrets of Marunouchi

LOCAL INSIGHT

DESPITE BOASTING the perfect location – right in between

bustling Tokyo Station and the vast grounds of the Imperial Palace – Marunouchi, Tokyo’s shiny glass-and-steel business hub, has been woefully overlooked as a destination in its own right. Most visitors simply pass through and miss out on the over 900 shops, cafés and restaurants hidden steps away from the main thoroughfares. Don’t make the same mistake – follow us on a tour of Marunouchi’s secret highlights, and dive deep into local history with an app that takes you all the way back to the Edo era.

The tasty terrace up high Marunouchi House

Where do Marunouchi’s officeworking hordes go to start the weekend? They head for this seventh-floor spot inside the Shin-Marunouchi building, home to a free-flowing melange of affordable restaurants and bars, including Mediterranean eatery Rigoletto and casual noodle shop Sobakichi. The biggest draw is the expansive outdoor terrace, which can be used for al fresco drinking and dining – just buy eats and tipples at any of the restaurants and bring them outside. It stays open until 4am (until 11pm on Sundays) and sees exhibitions plus DJ gigs on most Thursday and Friday nights. Note that bringing your own food and drinks is not allowed. 7F Shin-Marunouchi Bldg, 1-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda. 03 5218 5100. marunouchi-house.com. Mon-Sat 11am-4am, Sun & hols 11am-11pm.

The gourmet grill to rule them all Grill Ukai

In the mood for meat? Several big-name steakhouses and teppanyaki joints call Marunouchi home, but none of them combine quality, value and views quite like Ukai. Overlooking Marunouchi Brick Square and its many terrace cafés, this gourmet grill is accessed discreetly through a stone-covered entrance and serves up the finest wagyu cuts, Iberico pork and seafood as part of prix fixe meals. Starting from around ¥4,000, the lunch deals are particularly good value. Marunouchi Brick Square 2F, 2-6-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda. 03 5221 5252. ukai.co.jp/english/grill. Daily 11am-3.30pm (last orders 2pm), 5.30pm-11pm (9pm).

The terrace may close in case of rain or strong winds.

The takeout matcha master

The superb suit specialist

The time-travelling guide app

Founded in Kyoto in 1717, this 300-year-old purveyor of fine tea makes every effort to maintain consistently delicious flavours throughout the year. Ippodo’s Marunouchi outpost is your onestop shop for all things green tea, and even houses a fully equipped tea room fit for serious sipping. We also love their matcha takeout service: around ¥500 gets you a to-go cup of wonderfully rich, aromatic tea, available in both hot and iced form and sure to power you up for a stroll in the Imperial gardens or a long shinkansen ride.

In the business of styling up Tokyoites since 1976, 'select shop' extraordinaire Beams has grown into an international fashion player during the more recent part of its 40-year history. Although the brand is mainly associated with street styles, it’s quietly built quite a following among Marunouchi’s suited crowd as well. This ground-floor boutique stocks an impressive line of formalwear alongside more casual options, and even offers a tailoring service for those intent on dressing to impress.

Back when Tokyo was still known as Edo and the Imperial Palace as Edo Castle, Marunouchi hosted the mansions of feudal lords loyal to the Tokugawa shoguns. The present-day streets show few traces of this illustrious past, but you can still look back into the time of the samurai with the Tokyo Marunouchi Edo Walker app. In addition to 360-degree panoramic views of Edo-era Marunouchi, it contains a wealth of food-related historical trivia and the back story on local shops and restaurants that have been in business since the time of the shogunate.

Ippodo Tokyo Marunouchi Store

3-1-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda. 03 6212 0202. ippodo-tea.co.jp/en/ shop/marunouchi-tokyo.html. Daily 11am-7pm.

Beams House

1F Marunouchi Bldg, 2-4-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda. 03 5220 8686. beams.co.jp/shops/detail/beams-house-marunouchi?lang=en. Mon-Sat 11am-9pm, Sun & hols 11am-8pm.

Tokyo Marunouchi Edo Walker

Search for ‘Tokyo Marunouchi Edo Walker’ in the App Store or on Google Play to get the app for iPhone or Android.

Secret Tokyo NEZU MUSEUM GARDEN A pocket of serenity in the concrete jungle

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Besides housing a collection of over 7,400 artworks – including rare Shang and Zhou bronzes – Aoyama’s Nezu Museum offers an escape from the city with its gorgeous Japanese garden. Hidden out the back you’ll find a hilly, lush hideout with Buddhist statues, Zen-style bamboo decorations and a modernist café that overlooks the greenery.

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

à 1-20-6 Shinkawa, Chuo (Kayabacho Station). 03 5542 7072. tinyurl.com/TOTmilepost. Mon-Sat 11.30am-11pm, Sun & hols 11.30am-6pm.

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à 6-5-1 Minami-Aoyama, Minato (Omotesando Station). 03 3400 2536. tinyurl.com/TOTnezugarden. 10am-5pm, closed Mon and July 11-22.

MILE POST CAFE Brews and curry on the waterfront

Craft beer, Indian grub and the calmly flowing Sumida River: defying Tokyo’s lack of proper waterfront cafés and bars, Mile Post Cafe offers a rare trifecta of treats. While the windowside seats are nice, the terrace is where the real magic happens. Head over after nightfall and admire the lit-up Skytree and nearby Eitaibashi while nibbling on the funky ‘pub-style’ curries and cheese-filled samosas. Wash them down with 10 varieties of mainly domestic brews – our visit saw contributions from Fujizakura Heights, Minoh and Shiga Kogen on tap, plus a few quirkier options that included a Johana Tropical Pink from Toyama. Oh, and if you pop in between 11.30am and 5pm, all curries come with unlimited naan bread and rice.

NIPPARA LIMESTONE CAVE Ancient cult site, modern-day chill spot

MUKOJIMA HYAKKAEN Where the flowers are always in season

Constructed in the early decades of the 19th century, when Edo town culture began to flourish, this lush flower garden features a wealth of plum trees, flowering plants and impressive bushes, ensuring a year-round display of colour. The plums are at their best in February and March, while the hydrangeas bloom in late June and July. Many wild birds and insects also make their home here in summer, when the garden can feel almost tropical. The small shop on the premises sells refreshments like amazake (a sweet rice drink) and ramune soda.

Sure, it’s way out in the middle of nowhere, a two-hour trip from Shinjuku, but this eerie limestone cavern is perfect for escaping Tokyo’s suffocating summer heat: the temperature inside is a steady 11 degrees Celsius. Around 800m deep, the caves were formed over millions of years and were once a centre for Japanese mountain cults – fittingly enough for an otherworldly realm far removed from the sleepy countryside up above. The paths inside the cave are well lit and clearly marked but often wet, so make sure to wear sturdy shoes. Bringing your own bento is also recommended as there are hardly any eateries in the area. à 1052 Nippara, Okutama, Nishitama District (Okutama Station, then 35min by Nishi-Tokyo local bus). 0428 83 8491. www.nippara.com/nippara/syounyuudou/syounyuudou.html.

OKUTAMA OOTAKI Tokyo’s humble answer to Niagara Falls

Literally ‘big waterfall’, Ootaki is the largest of the three waterfalls that dominate the hiking trail leading to Mt Otake. Drive all the way up to Unazawa Enchi (the entrance to the trail, located just past the America Camp Village) and from there it’s a 70-minute round-trip on foot to see all three waterfalls. Climb the rocks to get as close to the falls as you can and enjoy a picnic under the splashing water.

à 3 Higashi-Mukojima, Sumida (HigashiMukojima Station). tinyurl.com/TOTmukojima. Daily 9am-5pm. Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

à Okutama, Nishitama District (Unazawa Enchi is 15 minutes by car and 30 minutes by bicycle from Okutama Station).

THE OPEN BOOK Zesty boozing in literary surrounds

A mix of shochu, club soda and lemon juice, the humble lemon sour (the Japanese kind, not the cocktail base) isn’t the sort of drink one would think merits a specialist bar. One would change one’s mind, however, after a visit to the Open Book, which opened on Shinjuku’s Golden Gai this spring. Upon entering, your eyes are sure to fixate on the massive back wall, covered with books all the way up to the ceiling. Mr Tanaka, the owner, is a grandchild of the late Komimasa Tanaka, a Naoki Award-winning author and translator, who is unsurprisingly well-represented in the Open Book’s library. The unique collection can be freely browsed while sipping on one of the bartender’s signature sour mixtures. He uses a doublechamber Randall filter to bring out the zesty best of the lemons while mixing them with powerpacked shochu and homemade lemon syrup, resulting in a harmony of sweetness, sourness and crispness. If you’re feeling peckish, order the curry toast to go with the booze. It’s good to know that fans of lemon sours now have a literary alternative to the nomihodai (all-you-candrink) options all over town. à Golden Gai 5-Ban Gai, 1-1-6 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 080 4112 0273. tinyurl.com/TOTopenbook. Daily 7pm-2am.

PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

Secret Tokyo

OTA-KU, BLACK HOT SPRINGS

Where to soak in a black bath

Located in a quiet residential area south of Kamata station, in between the Tokaido and Keikyu railway lines, this wonderfully old school bathhouse looks ordinary from the outside, but is actually one of the finest soaking establishments in the area and is renowned for its dark-as-night onsen water. Advertised as a ‘super sento’ – a fancier version of your average neighbourhood bathhouse – Kamata Onsen first opened its doors way back in 1937. It has stood the test of time despite being damaged in World War II and undergoing numerous other trials, and was completely renovated 30 years ago. Its speciality kuroyu baths get their distinctive colour from humic acid, an organic substance found in the groundwater under Ota and further south in Kawasaki, and are dark enough for your hand to disappear from sight only 3cm beneath the surface. These baths are said to have the power to heal sore knees and backs, as well as improving your blood circulation and smoothing out your skin. When you’re done soaking in the healing liquid, head over to the lounge for nibbles, karaoke and even, if you’re lucky, a gig – Kamata Onsen hosts three or four performance nights every year, inviting local musicians and artists to strut their stuff. If you’re looking to join their ranks, order some booze and start at the karaoke booth, where ¥1,000 gets you 15 songs (11 on Sundays): fellow bathers may well join you for an impromptu sing-along session. Kamata Onsen is open year-round and entrance is a mere ¥460 (children aged 6-12 ¥180, younger free). If you’ve left your towel at home, go for the ¥1,000 Tebura set, which also includes amenities and even a yukata (Japanese bathrobe) on top of entry to the baths. à 2-23-2 Kamata-Honcho, Ota (Kamata Station). 03 3732 1126. tinyurl.com/TOTkamata. Daily 10am-1am.

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

Secret Tokyo

ROPPONGI HILLS ROSE GARDEN Smell the roses before a night of clubbing

Oases of calm exist even in the centre of sleaze that is Roppongi. Step away from the noise and bright lights into this small garden where roses burst into bloom in summer. The night-time views of Tokyo Tower are romantic, but occasionally get obscured by the necks of heavy-duty construction cranes below. à 6-10 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station).

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SARU ISLAND Your own piece of paradise

You don’t have to be rich to have an island all to yourself. Simply pay ¥70,000 to rent out Sarushima, an island in Tokyo Bay, and you can feel like a celebrity. Unfortunately this service is only available during the weekends and holidays from December to February, though you can still visit the island for only ¥200 all year round. After you’ve spent some time sunbathing on the beach, take a tour around the island, which has been known to remind people of the scenery from Studio Ghibli’s anime masterpiece ‘Castle in the Sky’. On your way back home on the boat, don’t forget to enjoy the breathtaking sunset views. à Yokosuka, Kanagawa. www.tryangle-web.com/sarushima.html.

SHIBUYA STICKERS Stick it to the man

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Like most other things in this super-dense city, street art in Tokyo takes place on a small scale. The giant murals and tags you see in other major urban centres are largely absent, but that doesn’t mean Tokyo doesn’t have its own rich street art culture. For proof, head to Shibuya, where virtually every available surface is plastered with stickers. To start your tour, walk up the pedestrianised Center Gai and turn down any random alleyway. Shibuya gets plenty of international sticker traffic from the likes of Shepard Fairey and B.N.E., but the local talent is just as good. Case in point: 281_Anti Nuke, a father and activist whose postFukushima stickers often feature a young girl seeking cover from radioactive rain, and pro-nuclear power prime minister Shinzo Abe kowtowing to the nuclear industry. Not every Tokyo street artist is as overtly political as 281, but all of Shibuya’s playful, irreverent and often beautifully designed street art belies the tired notion that there’s no speaking back to power in Japan. Transfers may not seem the most potent way of ‘sticking it to the man’, but in Japan people have been arrested for defacing political posters in the past.

Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

SON OF THE CHEESE No cheese, but plenty of hipster action

Meguro’s supremely laidback Son of the Cheese, with its round skateboarding pool and camping van, has become a favourite haunt for many local creatives. With their eponymous clothing brand winning fans across Japan, the folks behind Son of the Cheese opened a new ‘play space’ at Shibuya’s Namikibashi. In addition to a shop, the quirky spot boasts a sandwich joint and an invitation-only bar, while also exhibiting and selling pieces by artists who’ve worked closely with the brand’s designers. Hidden away from the hustle and bustle of Shibuya, this one’s on track to become the Namikibashi area’s hottest secret spot.

PHOTO: YASUHISA SHIMBO

Secret Tokyo

TAKETORA Pig out on pork-covered noodles

It looks just like your average neighbourhood noodle joint, but Hatagaya’s Taketora is far from ordinary: their clear, crisp and additive-free soup is made with broth from pork, chicken, kombu and ‘flying fish’ (ago) – a unique concoction in itself – while the menu lists one of the most aesthetically shocking bowls of ramen in all of Tokyo. The oban chashumen comes covered entirely with chashu (braised belly) pork, so you’ll have to dig through a wall of meat before even reaching the noodles. It’s a good thing that the slices are far less greasy than they look – but you still need to be quite the carnivore to finish this big boy.

à 1-31-19 Higashi, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 6427 1986. sonofthecheese.com. Shop 12noon-8pm, sandwich stand 8am-10pm, bar 12noon-12midnight (by invitation only after 6pm).

à 1-32-1 Hatagaya, Shibuya (Hatagaya Station). 03 3465 6372. tinyurl.com/TOTtaketora. Mon-Sat 11am-3pm, closed Sun & hols.

PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

The name says it all – artist Ken Kagami's chamber of curiosities is hidden inside an apartment building on a Daikanyama backstreet and filled with secondhand clothing, old books and weird knickknacks assembled by the man himself. Fans of Kagami's quirky sense of humour will have a field day here.

PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

STRANGE STORE A wacky world of secondhand stuff

TODOROKI VALLEY Our favourite green oasis

Right by Kita-Senju station is an alleyway full of bars with flashing neon signs and a building that used to operate as a love hotel but has now been occupied by sushi and ramen restaurants, watering holes and hostess bars. One great option is Sushi King, which serves reasonably priced sushi at the counter, costing around ¥100¥500 a pop.

Just southwest of bustling central Tokyo, Todoroki Valley is a thing of beauty. Approximately one kilometre in length, it’s a green and plush towpath that starts from Todoroki station, goes beneath Kampachi-dori and stretches all the way to Todoroki Children’s Park. Never crowded, the valley is popular with students from Tokyo City University, as well as the occasional office worker looking for a bit of solitude with which to enjoy their lunchtime bento. The tolling of the Todoroki Fudo Temple bell adds to its beatific, restful nature; when the weather is good, there are few more refreshing spots in the capital.

à SS Bldg, 1-32-2 Senju, Adachi (Kita-Senju Station). 03 5244 1370. Daily 5pm-4am, closed Sun.

à Todoroki, Setagaya (Todoroki Station). tinyurl. com/TOTtodoroki.

à 12-3-301 Uguisudanicho, Shibuya (Shibuya, Daikanyama stations). 03 3496 5611. tinyurl. com/TOTstrange. Mon-Fri 3pm-7pm, Sat, Sun & hols 12noon-7pm, irregular closing days.

SUSHI KING The garish lord of raw fish

Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

TOKYO CAMII Travel to Turkey without leaving Tokyo

The largest mosque in Japan is in Yoyogi Uehara. At Tokyo Camii (also known as Tokyo Mosque), you’ll also find the Turkish Cultural Center, which, as you may have guessed, is a good starting point for an introduction both to Islam and to Turkish culture. It’s generally open to the public, and non-Muslims are welcome to visit. Just be careful not to take photos or disturb the people praying in the worship area. Women also need to cover their hair and avoid showing excess skin. Call ahead to book a guided tour in English for groups of five or more. à 1-19 Oyamacho, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Uehara Station). 03 5790 0760. tinyurl.com/TOTcamii.

Secret Tokyo

TWILLO

The travelling master of spirits and smokes

If you ever happen to spot a lightly worn-down white cart stacked full of alcohol on your nightly adventures, be sure to stop by for a drink: in a city full of curious watering holes, Twillo is one of the most eccentric. Serving a snappy selection of beer, wine, spirits, cocktails and Cuban cigars out of his truck, the owner is on a never-ending journey around Tokyo, always setting up shop somewhere in the city around 10pm and staying put until the following morning. The only way to find him is through Twitter, where he reveals his location for the day. A recent accident saw the operator break his leg, but that hasn’t stalled his quest – the truck is immobile for the time being, though. PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

à twitter.com/Twillo0.

Tokyo is well known for its vibrant record store scene, but finding a shop specialising in good old cassette tapes might surprise even the most hardcore of collectors. Waltz stocks a whopping 3,000 tapes amassed one-by-one by the owner, plus an extensive selection of vinyl, VHS tapes, vintage mags and boomboxes. They’ll even let you try before you buy.

PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

PHOTO: MARI HIRATSUKA

WALTZ Cassette tapes live on in Nakameguro

USAGIYA CAFÉ The city’s fastest pancake purveyor

Located next to 100-plus-year-old wagashi shop Usagiya, this café serves meal sets with custommade plates and cups that are specially created for each item on the menu. The main draw here is their dorayaki ‘pancake’ set which – incredibly – is only served for 10 minutes a day from 9am to 9.10am. They also serve kakigori, Japan’s most popular summer dessert, made from their homemade shaved ice topped with syrup. Try the kakigori with red beans and honey spiked with junmai sake. à 1-17-5 Ueno, Taito (Ueno-Hirokoji, Yushima stations). 03 6240 1561. tinyurl.com/TOTusagiya. 9am-6pm, closed Wed.

THE VIBE BAR WILD ONE A wonderful world of vibrators

Observant visitors to a certain Shibuya sex shop may notice the stairs right next to the store entrance, but few actually wander all the way up to the third floor, where there’s a genitalia-shaped doorway. Beyond the phallic portal lies a unique watering hole which welcomes patrons with a colourful, seemingly endless collection of dildos in all shapes and sizes. The staff are on hand to help pick out the perfect one for you and yours. The place is tiny and entrance is strict – there’s a ¥3,000 cover charge that gets you 90 minutes of access and two drink tickets, and all-male parties aren’t allowed as the owners want to discourage stag-do sniggering.

à 4-15-5 Nakameguro, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). 03 5734 1017. waltz-store.co.jp. 1pm-8pm, closed Mon.

WORLD TRADE CENTER BUILDING Skip Tokyo Tower, see Tokyo Tower

Although the out-of-the-way location ensures that it’s not as popular as its competitors, this observatory on the 40th floor of Hamamatsucho’s World Trade Center building still offers beautiful panoramic views of nearby Tokyo Tower, the Bay area and Odaiba. à 2-4-1 Hamamatsucho, Minato (Hamamatsucho Station). 03 3435 6026. wtcbldg.co.jp/wtcb/ facility/seaside/index.html. Daily 10am-8.30pm.

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à Shimizu Bldg 3F, 2-7-4 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 5456 1100. tinyurl.com/ TOTvibe. Mon-Sat 5pm-12midnight, closed Sun & hols.

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

Promotional feature

Alexander Hugh Mitchell Director at Backwoods Gallery Age: 36 Over several thousand years, the Japanese people have developed a unique aesthetic, which has attracted people from across the globe. Here, we introduce you to creatives active in Tokyo, and ask them how their professional and private lives have been affected by the spirits and sensibilities of Japan.

You are the director at Backwoods, a gallery in Melbourne that aims to generate strong cultural ties between artists in Tokyo and Melbourne. Why did you choose Tokyo as your sister city? Japan’s cultural exports have a huge impact on Australia. I grew up in the shadow of Japanese culture. TwoOne, a Japanese artist who was living in Melbourne, gave me an introduction to Tokyo’s graffiti community, and my good friend Shun Kawakami introduced me to great designers. Between Shun and TwoOne, I’ve met a talented community of artists, designers and musicians. It’s uncanny how similar the creative vibes are in Melbourne and Japan. Despite Tokyo having a much larger population, the art community in Tokyo is small, close knit, supportive and engaged – it’s almost identical to Melbourne’s. So when we launched Backwoods Gallery, it

was natural to use the space as a bridge for the two communities. In what ways do you find Japanese artists differ with artists from other countries? All artists are different. But in Japan there is a sense of perfectionism, which most artists have, and that comes through in everything. Even packaging is perfect, customised boxes, felted

envelopes with specialised tape: whenever art arrives from Japan it’s always impeccably packaged. It may sound insignificant, but when you work at a gallery long enough, this kind of thing starts to be important. What’s your favourite aspect of Japanese culture? Has it influenced your work so far? Japanese culture has sublimated

symbolic ritualism in a very unique way. Temples and shrines play a part in daily life, anthropomorphic mascots represent every type of business and there are so many small rituals that permeate every aspect of life. I think these rituals are part of what makes the Japanese mindset so unique. It’s something that inspires my art as well as the way I contemplate the role of culture and ritual in shaping society. When you travel around the world on business, what do you pay most attention to? There is a direct correlation between how cultured a country is and the distance that people stand from the baggage carrousel when waiting for their bags at the airport. Finally, what are your future goals? To launch Backwoods Gallery in Tokyo, make short films and found civilisation on Mars.

Casio’s latest masterpiece draws on austere Japanese aesthetics

LOCAL INSIGHT

RELEASED IN MAY , the brand-new Edifice watch may look simpler than most of Casio’s other creations, but this merely highlights how perfectly it performs its original function of accurate timekeeping. The plain appearance doesn’t denote reduced complexity in other areas either – in fact, its smartphone sync system ensures top-of-the-line performance. These are some of the features that make the Edifice, a watch that draws on the austere aesthetics of Japan, a piece of perfection.

SOPHISTICATED FORM

A powerful presence Its multidimensional inset dial makes for a dynamic style and edgy look, further highlighted by the tough metal case. The Edifice is a simple yet beautiful and sophisticated timepiece packed with the latest technology.

Dual Dial world time With your home time on the main dial, world time on the 8 o’clock global dial and an additional time zone on the 3 o’clock in-dial, the Edifice allows you to switch times with the press of a button or a simple app command.

The world in the palm of your hands The watch features a 3D domeshaped Global Dial sitting at the 3 o’clock position. This dial rotates once a day, indicating the time zone of your choosing to determine a visual daytime and night-time indication.

Claiming an identity Found at the 8 o’clock position is a larger-than-usual Bluetooth button decorated with the Bluetooth mark – for easily syncing the watch with your smartphone, of course.

SMARTPHONE LINK

CASIO WATCH + Accurate Time System Synch your watch with the official ‘Casio Watch+’ app to always stay in the right time zone. This app determines your time zone, offers daylight savings information and automatically sets your watch to the right time. The system connects to online time servers for time data. Practical for worldwide time Sync your watch with the smartphone app which covers over 300 cities, and have it automatically change time zones to correspond to your location. When travelling abroad, you can adjust the time zone, including daylight savings, with the press of a button.

Automatic time zone changes The watch adjusts its time zone on both the home and world time displays four times a day when synced with the smartphone app, so you’ll never have to worry about not having the right time. Looking for your phone? Lost your phone? If it’s synced to the Edifice, you can ring it by pressing a button on the watch.

Edifice EQB-600 ¥50,000 (excl. tax)

For more information on Casio’s latest timepieces and where to purchase yours, visit casio-intl.com

Eating & Drinking

Eat here now Tokyo’s dining scene changes fast. Sarah Crago wraps up the best new restaurants on the block

FRANZE & EVANS A good salad is surprisingly hard to find in Tokyo. They tend to fall into two camps – bland but healthy, or laden with so much fattening dressing you might as well eat a burger. Thank the stars then for the light, creative salads offered by Franze & Evans, which opened in Omotesando earlier this year. This deli-style café is an import from Shoreditch in east London – and happily the hip vibe has survived the trip intact. F&E comes into its own at lunchtimes with its range of 15 fresh and innovative salads. A highlight is the red and golden roasted beets with radicchio, fennel and a combination of goat’s cheese, crispy kale and edamame. There’s a set lunch menu to help out the indecisive: get one of three salads plus the soup of the day and a drink for ¥1,380. Or get two salads and a hot dish – the arancini balls (stuffed rice balls coated with breadcrumbs) are a solid bet – with soup and a drink for ¥1,580. Reward yourself for such health-conscious eating with a trip to the dessert counter. The largely British and Antipodean treats include pavlova (a meringue cake topped with fruit) and sweet, crunchy Anzac biscuits, as well as decadent red velvet cupcakes and a classic Victoria sponge. Take-away is an option if you’re struggling for space. Open seven days a week, with breakfast served until 11.30am – don’t miss the wickedly delicious brioche French toast with sautéed banana and crispy bacon – Franze & Evans looks set to be a popular addition to the Omotesando food scene. à 1F, 4-9-4 Jingumae, Shibuya (Omotesando Station). 03 5413 3926. franzeevans.jp. Mon-Fri 9am-9pm, Sat 10am-9pm, Sun & hols 10am-8pm.

THE APOLLO At last, a contemporary Greek restaurant has landed in Tokyo. Two well-known Australian restaurateurs, Jonathan Barthelmess and Sam Christie, have brought their award-winning Sydney restaurant The Apollo to the Tokyu Plaza Ginza. The space occupies a prime position on the top floor, with floor-to-ceiling glass windows offering a 270-degree view over the city. Exposed concrete and pared-down fittings lend a relaxed and modern feel to the space and there are Mediterranean touches in the form of marble tabletops and olive trees. Greek food is best when shared, and this is certainly reflected at The Apollo in the form of set menus the whole table can get stuck into. The highlight of the five appetisers is the magnificent saganaki cheese, pan-fried with honey, oregano and lemon juice. The main is an eight-hour slow-cooked shoulder of Australian lamb so succulent it’s unlikely to last eight minutes on the table, and a lemon-flavoured meringue pie creation ends proceedings in style. At a very reasonable ¥4,800 per person for lunch or ¥5,500 for dinner, it’s no surprise the place is permanently packed. Bookings are taken for both lunch and dinner every day. We suggest you make one soon, for this is a Greek restaurant on the rise. à Tokyu Plaza Ginza 11F, 5-2-1 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza, Yurakucho stations). 03 6264 5220. theapollo.jp. Daily 11am-11pm. Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

GINZA SEMBIKIYA TSUKIJI

ROSEMARY’S

The fruit sandwich at Ginza Sembikiya Tsukiji is what lunchbox dreams are made of. Abandon your tired ham and cheese affairs and embrace fresh strawberries, crisp slices of apple, melon, peach and crunchy chestnut, all slathered with whipped cream and sandwiched between sliced white bread, crusts removed of course. Opened over 120 years ago, the Ginza Sembikiya shop has a longstanding reputation for selling the finest seasonal fruits. Over the decades the business has expanded to include fine French pastries, desserts and chocolates. The latest offering is this takeaway shop at Tsukiji, which specialises in fruit sandwiches along with pastries, gift-boxed delicacies and fresh juices. Signature desserts such as the swiss roll are made fresh daily. The seasonal tarte is first among equals, made with the best quality fruit the chefs can get their hands on. And their fruit-topped shaved ice is available just in time to beat the rising Tokyo temperatures.

In a secluded garden oasis far from the bustling streets below, Rosemary’s brings New York’s West Village to a rooftop in Shinjuku. Atop the sixth floor of the newly opened Newoman shopping complex, Rosemary’s is a New York-style Italian restaurant with a focus on seasonal organic produce. A vast terrace sits smartly amongst the lush surrounds and guests are free to wander up the stairs to the rooftop kitchen garden, where a variety of vegetables and herbs are grown for the kitchen while also providing an urban farm education programme for local schoolchildren. The pasta is also made on the premises. The signature orecchiette dish combines homemade pork sausage from Fujiyama-raised pigs, broccoli, and semi-dried tomatoes with perfectly al dente pasta. It is home-style Italian cooking at its best. The lunch set menu is proving a hit with Newoman’s well-heeled shoppers. Choose between the focaccia set, which features a slab of fluffy baked bread topped with mozzarella, tomato and basil, or the pasta set with a choice of orecchiette pasta or tomato, basil and mozzarella linguine. The set menu costs ¥1,300 on weekdays and ¥1,800 at the weekend.

à 3-7-2 Tsukiji, Chuo (Tsukiji Station). 03 6264 7440. ginza-sembikiya.jp. Mon-Fri 10.30am-6.30pm, closed Sat, Sun & hols.

à Newoman Shinjuku 6F, 5-24-55 Sendagaya, Shibuya (Shinjuku Station). 03 5361 7027. rosemarystyo. com. Daily 11am-11pm (reservations can be made at dinner only).

FRANZE & EVANS, THE APOLLO, GINZA SEMBIKIYA TSUKIJI, ROSEMARY’S: YASUHISA SHIMBO. YAKIYAMA: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

YAKIYAMA Wild game has yet to make much headway in Japan, but Yakiyama is looking to change all that with its Nakameguro opening. Their main restaurant is located in Oita prefecture on the island of Kyushu, where the concept is a simple one – to hunt wild animals that are a nuisance to crops and local farmers, and serve them grilled over hot coals. The surrounds are far more urban here, but the grilling part remains the same. The meat on the menu varies depending on the season and can include deer, wild boar, horse, rabbit, duck, ostrich and pheasant. However, it’s the year-round meat of crow that’s caused a spot of controversy. And true to culinary cliché, crow tastes a lot like chicken. Yakiyama also offers a chef’s choice of seasonal cuts that you can grill yourself at the table. Be careful not to overcook the meat, which often has little fat content and can turn chewy and tough. A line-up of condiments including yuzu, mountain herbs, garlic, mustard and salt will help add some flavour. And a side of mashed potato with cheese, blowtorched for theatrical effect at your table, completes the set nicely. à 2F, 2-44-24 Kamimeguro, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). 03 6412 7417. yakiyama.com. Daily 5.30pm-2am.

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

Eating & Drinking

Fix your caffeine cravings at eastern Tokyo’s finest old-school coffee houses. Words by Yukako Izumi and Shiori Kotaki

PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

Full of beans MOST TOURISTS ASSOCIATE Tokyo’s shitamachi (traditional downtown) with

PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

Asakusa, home of the ever-popular Sensoji Temple and the infamous ‘golden turd’ on the roof of Asahi Beer’s headquarters. But only a few minutes east of the Sumida River on foot, in the shadow of the Skytree, lies a less thoroughly explored but equally attractive part of downtown. Instead of trendy and oh-so-serious ‘third wave’ coffee shops, these areas are littered with traditional kissaten – the kind of old-school Japanese cafés that specialised in artisanal coffee decades before anyone had heard of Blue Bottle or AeroPressing. Escape the crowds and follow us on a tour of four shitamachi spots that are sure to satisfy your caffeine cravings.

HOKUSAI SABO

à 1-34-7 Higashi-Mukojima, Sumida (Hikifune, Higashi-Mukojima stations). 03 3612 4178. www.cfc101.com. 8.30am-8pm, closed Wed.

à 4-8-5 Kamezawa, Sumida (Kinshicho Station). 03 5610 5331. 11.30am-10pm (last orders 9pm), closed Tue.

PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

Hearing the owner of this café was something of a local big shot, we entered expecting some tough guy to welcome us with a true downtown grunt. Imagine our surprise when owner Yasutaka Inaba greeted us with a friendly smile and immediately showed us to a table. A favourite among locals stopping by to take a break from work, this spot caters to everyone from busy businesspeople to families with small children, so first-timers will feel welcome right away. The laidback Mr Inaba takes coffee very seriously, dripping each cup by hand to make sure the product meets his sky-high quality standards. Leaving without trying their homemade cheesecake would be a crime, and don’t worry if you can’t read Japanese – the shop has both English and Chinese menus.

Named after ukiyo-e master Katsushika Hokusai, creator of the ‘36 views of Mt Fuji’ landscape prints – including the now all-butcliché ‘Great Wave off Kanagawa’ – Hokusai Sabo is a fixture of the neighbourhood that gave birth to Edo’s famed woodblock print wizard. Crowds gather here even on weekdays, with locals and visitors alike eager to sample the café’s sweets. Their signature dessert is the Sabo Tokusei Anmitsu, a combination of homemade red bean paste, shiratama rice cakes, black honey and agar, topped with copious amounts of fresh fruit. They are served with shiratama made to order, which gives them a nice chewy texture, and there’s really no way your sweet tooth won’t be satisfied after digging into this voluminous serving. You can also go for some ice cream or warabimochi (jelly-like rice cakes with sweet soybean powder), but do consider bringing a Japanese speaker along with you – there are no English menus here.

HIGASHI-MUKOJIMA COFFEE-TEN

Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

Eating & Drinking

SUMIDA COFFEE If you want to fully experience the Japanese way of drinking Joe, head straight for Sumida Coffee. Instead of serving their power-packed roast in ceramic mugs, these guys use Edo Kiriko cups, honouring the traditional, Tokyo-born form of glass manufacturing and decoration. Typically only associated with cold drinks, the Edo Kiriko ware here was made to order by a master of the craft and can’t be found anywhere else. There are 11 different cup designs, and the owner pairs each one with a customer based on his impression of the person in question. If you like the one he picks for you, consider buying a cup with the same design as a souvenir – they’re all for sale at the counter. à 4-7-11 Taihei, Sumida (Kinshicho Station). 03 5637 7783. www. facebook.com/sumidacoffee. 11am-7pm, closed Wed and 2nd & 4th Tue of every month.

à 1-6-5 Bunka, Sumida (Oshiage Station). 03 3611 1821. tenshinan.jp. 12 noon-7pm (Sundays until 4pm), closed Wed and Thu.

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

NAGAYA SABO TENSHINAN

Upon entering this 70-year-old, beautifully renovated wooden building, you’ll be sure to spot the exquisite wooden counter that looks like it was made to order. Apparently that’s not the case: the owner tells us he picked it up on a walk after spotting the discarded piece of wood just lying around (for proof, take a closer look and you’ll see the saw marks). To the right of the counter sits a small millstone used to grind the coffee, which surprises with its sweet, mellow taste and is best combined with some soba noodles or a buckwheat galette – the wheat for these is also ground on the millstone. Add a little yuzukosho (citrus seasoning) for an extra kick, and enjoy the eccentric-sounding but unexpectedly tasty combo of craft coffee and handmade noodles.

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

Promotional feature LOCAL INSIGHT

DIVE DEEP INTO THE HISTORY OF AN ICONIC SEIKO WATCH

Over the past half a century, Japan has excited the world with its technology. Icons of this country’s engineering prowess – and symbols of Japanese punctuality – Seiko watches have earned a worldwide following for their quality. Sitting at the top of the Seiko line in terms of technology, the Diver’s Watches are known for their status as the timepiece of choice for discerning adventurers. Here, we dive deep into the 50-year history of this iconic watch.

1965

Released as the first diver’s watch made in Japan, Seiko’s premier model initially came out in 1965, a year that marked the start of a decade of rapid economic growth and technological progress in Japan. 1965 was also when the theme for Osaka’s renowned World’s Fair (1968) – ‘Progress and Harmony for Mankind’ – was announced. As a partner on adventures to undiscovered worlds, the Diver’s Watch embodied this bold spirit of the age.

1965

1975

1975 saw all of Japan celebrate the inaugural visit of Queen Elizabeth II to the Land of the Rising Sun. At the risk of sounding brazen, we might compare the just and proper but always dynamic monarch with a certain timepiece: just like the British royals, Seiko owes its popularity to steadfastness and an emphasis on practicality under all circumstances. This year saw the release of a tough but light titanium version of the Diver’s Watch, the first timepiece in the world that could withstand depths of up to 600m.

1985 1995

Seiko and quartz technology are inseparable. Released in 1985, the quartz-based Diver’s Watch could be used at depths of up to 200m, and quickly became a worldwide bestseller. This was also the year when the wreck of the Titanic was discovered, buried under 3,650m of water.

1975 1985

1995 marked the start of the digital age, with the Windows 95 operating system conquering the world and a wide range of devices becoming computer-operated. Seiko’s Diver’s Watch was no exception: the 1995 model featured a fully automatic depth measurement function, a log data memory and other diverse improvements exemplifying Seiko’s commitment to staying on the cutting edge of watchmaking.

1995 2005

2015

The newest version of the Diver’s Watch, Prospex Marinemaster Professional, received a facelift in 2015. Before announcing the new release, Seiko had the previous version of the watch brought onto the JAMSTEC (Japan Agency for Marine-Earth Science and Technology) KAIKO 7000II, a remotely operated vehicle, confirming that it could perform at depths of over 3,000m (mechanical model up to 4,299m, quartz model up to 3,284m).This feat was a true testament to the reliability of the Seiko Diver’s Watch.

Just like Japanese society, Seiko’s Diver’s Watch has undergone remarkable change over the past 50 years. It truly has become a necessity for adventurers looking to make the most of the present while forging the foundations of the future.

Seiko Marinemaster Professional Water resistant up to 1,000m for saturation diving / Automatic with manual-winding mechanism SBDX013 ¥350,000 (plus tax) Ceramic outer shell protector Titanium case/Sapphire glass Silicone band/Case size 52.4mm

2015 Seiko Marinemaster Professional Water resistant up to 1,000m for saturation diving / Quartz SBBN025 ¥220,000 (plus tax) Ceramic outer shell protector Titanium case/Sapphire glass Silicone band/Case size 49.4mm

‘1965’: AFLO. ‘2015’: JAMSTEC.

2005

At the start of the new millennium and under conditions of slower economic growth, Seiko adopted a new set of values. 2005 saw the Kyoto Protocol on greenhouse gases come into effect and an environment-themed World’s Fair held in Aichi Prefecture, marking the global move towards emphasising ecological considerations. This was also the year when Seiko released a Diver’s Watch equipped with Spring Drive technology. This watch stored its own energy, allowing the quartz to function even without battery power. It was a durable, eco-friendly timepiece fit for the modern era.

1616 / ARITA JAPAN Colour Porcelain Deep Plate Large ¥5,500, medium ¥3,000, small ¥800 Mug Pink ¥2,300, blue ¥2,000

Gifts with a twist OWANYA UCHIDA Urushiwan (wooden bowl) ¥4,800 These bowls are made from natural shirk trees, finished with layers of lacquer that help them survive years of daily use. Traditionally they come only in deep red, but Owanya Uchida have embraced diversity – meaning there are plenty of other colours to choose from.

These ceramics are made in the town of Arita, in the heart of Saga prefecture and the birthplace of Japanese pottery. 1616 has brought these traditional pots, plates and cups bang up to date with intricate designs by Dutch designers Scholten & Baijings. à Momota Touen Palace Hotel Tokyo. 1-1-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda (Otemachi Station). 03 6273 4765. 1616arita.jp. Daily 10am-7pm.

Traditional Japanese crafts make great gifts, but finding the right cup, tea pot or bowl to take home can be a quest in itself. There’s no going wrong with the five places featured below, all of which put a fresh spin on time-honoured craftsmanship.

CEMENT PRODUCE DESIGN × KISSO Sabae ear pick ¥3,900 Ear picking is the Japanese technique of, well, picking your ear clean. While having someone poke around in your inner canal might not be for everyone, these beautiful glorified Q-tips, made of the same material as Sabae glass frames, make great gifts. à Coto Mono Michi at Tokyo. Aoyama Flex A, 5-2-16 Aoyama, Minato (Omotesando Station). 03 6427 6648. store.coto-mono-michi.jp. 11am-8pm, closed Wed.

KUROCO Stripe Old ¥25,000

PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

à Nakagawa Masashichi Shoten Coredo Muromachi. Coredo Muromachi 3 2F, 1-5-5 Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo (Mitsukoshimae Station). 03 6262 3157. www.yu-nakagawa. co.jp. Daily 10am-9pm.

Meet Kuroco, the new face of traditional Edo Kiriko glassware. This store, in business for well over 80 years, collaborates with veteran craftspeople to create black Edo Kiriko, supposedly the most difficult variety to master. The results are spectacular. à 2-18-17 Kojima, Taito (Shin-Okachimachi Station). 03 3851 9668. kimotoglass.tokyo. 10am-5pm, closed Sat, Sun & hols.

PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

HASAMI Block mug ¥1,500 Ceramics brand Hasami hails from a town of the same name in Nagasaki prefecture. The brand’s signature mug combines the area’s traditional craftsmanship with a design inspired by American diners of the ‘50s and ‘60s. à www.hasamiyaki.jp

*All prices are before tax.

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Shopping & Style

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

SHIBA SHOTENKAI

Streets ahead Tokyo’s traditional shotengai, or shopping streets, have experienced a visible decline in this age of the mega-mall, but these bargain alleys offer a shopping trip like no other. Here are five of the best Words by Kumi Nagano

Chilli lovers rejoice – Minato’s Shiba shopping street dedicates itself to spicy food and has truly earned the nickname ‘Geki-kara Street’ (‘extremely spicy street’). Yet the phrase ‘extremely spicy’ hardly does justice to one type of chilli found on this street – the fearsome bhut jolokia, around 200 times hotter than tabasco, is officially the world’s hottest. If you’ve got an extraordinarily high tolerance for spicy food, try Munch’s Burger Shack’s bhut jolokia chilli cheeseburger. Other highlights on this fiery thoroughfare include Shintenchi’s geki-kara beef ramen, Kamozushi’s extra wasabi sushi, Asian Shokudo Pakchee’s gekikara gapao rice, and Saioji Ikomaken’s gekikara stir-fried ramen. And, just in case you weren’t sure, geki-kara means ‘super-spicy’. Don’t let fear put you off a trip to Shiba – the restaurants will nearly always allow you to customise your spiciness levels, from a mild tingle to the tear-inducing. à Closest stations: Daimon, Shiba Koen, Mita

TENJIN-DORI SHOTENGAI

Combine shopping with a game of spot the goblin at Tenjin-dori Shotengai, where statues of manga mainstays live amongst the 50 stores lining the arcade. To begin, walk out of Chofu Station’s north exit and head towards Fuda Tenjin shrine into the Tenjin-dori shopping street. A sculpture of Kitaro (one of the main characters from the manga series ‘GeGeGe no Kitaro’) will greet you into the street – you can spot him at three other locations while shopping, while two of his friends are propped in seemingly random places. Once you’ve found them all you can reward yourself with a trip to Chofu Seifudo, where the unusual daifuku dessert flavours include lemon cheese and coffee. à Closest station: Chofu

ASAKUSA CHIKA SHOTENGAI

Who knew that Japan’s oldest shopping street is hidden underground in Asakusa? This 60-year-plus shopping street looks as though it’s barely changed since the Showa period – there are old stained ceilings with visible pipes and wires and retro signs plastered on the walls. Here you can find everything from standing-only ramen joints to barbers and fortune tellers. It’s easy to access directly from the Asakusa metro station on the Ginza subway line. à Closest station: Asakusa

JUJO GINZA SHOTENGAI

PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

Fill yourself up for only ¥1,000 at this bargainous eat street. Start at Toridai where you can get fried chicken balls for only ¥10 each (there’s a limit of 50 per person), before hitting Aisaika for tsukune meatballs (¥20 each) or chicken cutlets (¥160) the size of your hand. If you want cheap rice balls, Kamataya has over 50 varieties to pick from. Once the stalls’ offerings have gone they’re gone, so visit early in the day to be sure of getting hold of what you crave. The best way to get to Jujo Ginza is via the pedestrian-only arcade right outside Jujo Station. The area is shopping street ground zero with Jujo Chuo and Higashi Jujo nearby too.

Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

à Closest station: Jujo

Shopping & Style

At 1.3km, Togoshi Ginza is the longest shopping street in Tokyo, and is home to around 400 outlets. At this street food hotspot, yakitori, yakisoba and dango joints are everywhere, but it’s croquettes that prove the major draw. Try the potato versions by Oniku no Asano Meat or Goto Kamabokoten’s unique oden croquettes. If you’re looking for something sweeter, visit Asana for delicious dango mochi dumplings. When you’re tired from all the walking, the Togoshi Ginza Onsen public baths are on hand for a quick soak. The street is pedestrianised from Monday to Saturday between 3pm and 6pm, and from 2pm to 7pm on Sundays and holidays.

by getting your feline fix at Cat Snack, a bar packed with moggies. The Palm’s roof makes it a great choice for rainy days – just remember to not ride your bike here, as the street is for pedestrians only. à Closest station: Musashi-Koyama PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

TOGOSHI GINZA

à Closest station: Togoshi Ginza

MUSASHI KOYAMA PALM

PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

The longest covered shopping arcade in Japan, the 800m Musashi Koyama Palm begins right outside Musashi-Koyama Station’s east exit, and stretches all the way to Nakahara-kaido, towards Nishi-Koyama. Although the 250 shops are dominated by chain restaurants and stores, there’s still room for some great independents. Toriyuu has been around for about 90 years and serves delicious yakitori chicken skewers (¥150 each). At Osama to Strawberry you can get their famous 60cm tall and 3.5kg-heavy king parfait, while homemade Italian gelato is the speciality of Takeya Dessert Inn. End the day

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Bangkok is so hot right now

LOCAL INSIGHT

ONLY SIX HOURS FROM TOKYO ,

Bangkok has long been one of Asia’s most popular tourist destinations, attracting travellers with traditional temples, latenight spas, wild parties and cheap but delicious street eats. The Thai capital is now hotter than ever – and we’re not talking about the tropical climate. This fast-rising hub of Southeast Asia became the newest member of the Time Out family in May, so make sure to check out Time Out Bangkok if you’re heading to Thailand this summer. Their first issue is themed ‘Now and Next’ and profiles the new movers and shakers of Bangkok. And while you’re in town, don’t forget to visit the newly renovated Siam Discovery mall, Bangkok’s biggest and most beautiful shrine to shopping. Unique souvenirs, fashion finds and artsy interior décor; this gorgeously designed complex is a little piece of heaven for all you shopaholics.

Time Out Bangkok: timeout.com/bangkok

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

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The A to Z of LUMINE

is for… ARTS

Lumine is known for being supportive of up-and-coming artists in Japan. Not only will you find usual installations here – even the elevator doors are used as a canvas, allowing you to enjoy a wide range of art while shopping.

is for… BATHROOM

Japanese restrooms are famed for their cleanliness, but the ones at Lumine are in a class of their own. Calming background sounds, dim lights and perfectly installed equipment help make your bathroom break a peaceful experience. New complex NEWoMan’s bathrooms even boast Dyson water outlets that let you wash and dry your hands in an instant.

is for… CLOSING TIME

Lumine Shinjuku and EST stay open until 10pm, which is far longer than many other department stores in the area, while the restaurant hall in NEWoMan keeps the lights on from 7am to 4am – very convenient for night bus passengers arriving at or departing from the Busta Shinjuku bus terminal nearby.

is for… DREAMY DÉCOR

It’s not all about fashion at Lumine, which also offers lifestyle items like interior décor and stationery. Perfect for beautifying both your room and your office desk.

is for… EKIBIRU

This word literally means station (eki) building (biru), and denotes a shopping complex directly connected to a station. The convenience of the Ekibiru saves time and energy, as you don’t have to walk around with heavy shopping bags. Lumine is the representative Ekibiru in Japan, and has become almost synonymous with the word.

is for… FRAGRANCES

As soon as you get in or just pass by a Lumine, you’ll notice the aromatic breeze emanating from the fashion boutiques, body care shops and sweets stands.

When passing through any of the major JR stations in Tokyo, you're highly likely to come across a Lumine. These shopping havens, known as Ekibiru ('station building'), are packed with the city's latest fashion trends and are always conveniently accessible. Read on for our A to Z of reasons why Lumine is always one of the top shopping destinations for Tokyo trendsetters in their 20s and 30s.

is for… JAPANESE TRENDS

Every time you drop by a Lumine, you can catch up on Japan’s latest fashion trends. The stores offer relatively affordable items for people in their 20s to 30s, reflecting the daily street styles of young Japanese.

LOCAL INSIGHT

is for… KAWAII

You can find kawaii stuff everywhere in this country – and Lumine is no exception. Keep your eyes open for Lumine-style kawaii items to add to your daily outfit.

is for… GIFTS

Looking for some gifts to bring back but don’t have much time to browse? Don’t panic, Lumine is here to help. Our top recommendation is Koko Lumine Store, found inside JR Shinjuku Station. It’s a new concept store that features handmade Japanese products from beautifully crafted cups to sewing kits and hairpins made out of kimono fabric. Get ready to hunt for fancy home décor.

is for… HUB STATIONS

Lumine facilities can be found at most of JR’s major hub stations. No matter how big the station is, you won’t get lost on the way – the direct connections help, and entrances are usually located right next to the station gates.

is for… LUMINE, OF COURSE!

Images for illustrative purposes only

Lumine is where your expectations are exceeded. It welcomes all comers and gives them a little personal update – not only through new clothes, but through the feeling of finding everything slightly better than you might have thought.

is for… INSPIRATION

Are you always drawn to the same kinds of items? Lumine will give you new style inspiration with its loads of colourful products. In addition, the shops’ creative displays, laying coffee, jam and books next to clothes, make for great lifestyle hints.

is for… NEWOMAN

One of the newest, finest and coolest retail complexes in Tokyo, this Shinjuku spot boasts a mighty collection of cafés, restaurants and shops, including stores found only here. It features multiple garden areas, as well as direct connections to JR Shinjuku Station and Japan’s biggest bus and taxi terminal.

is for… MOVING FREELY

You don’t have to drag your heavy shopping bags around town. Even at NEWoMan, total purchases of ¥30,000 or more can be delivered directly to the airport at no extra cost.

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is for… ORGANIC

Find unique organic beauty products from Japan and elsewhere at Lumine, which houses many bodycare stores, and we even spotted superfood powder on sale inside one of the clothing stores!

is for… PRETTY WOMAN

Pamper yourself like a pretty woman – the central areas are bright, shiny and super clean, and the stores stock the kind of clothing and accessories worn by many of Japan’s trendiest ladies.

S T U

is for… STYLISH SHOP STAFF

Lumine shop employees are all dressed up perfectly to show each store’s style and the latest looks. Welcoming you with friendly smiles, they’re ready to help you find suitable wear that fits the latest trends.

is for… TAX-FREE SHOPPING

At Lumine’s tax-free counters, overseas visitors can now make a one-time application for tax exemptions on multiple purchases made at different stores within the mall, as long as they exceed the lower value limit.

is for… UNMISSABLE

Lumine puts on plenty of seasonal events on its rooftop, including beer gardens and barbecue in summer and illuminated decorations in winter. Check out the attraction programme during your visit for more details.

is for… QUEUE

You’re sure to witness at least one long queue in Tokyo during your visit. Tokyoites love new things, and Lumine is one of the top spots for queue-spotting – since it always has brandnew shops to go with the long-running, popular ones.

is for… RELAX AT RESTAURANTS

Just looking at the pretty cakes on offer at the restaurants and cafés will make you want to stop for afternoon tea or a quick bite in between all the shopping.

is for… VOGUE

Edgy mode, street style, a stylish office look or girly frills – no matter what your fashion needs are, Lumine can satisfy them.

The A to Z of LUMINE

FIND AND VISITYOUR LOCAL LUMINE LUMINE Shinjuku Lumine 1: 1-1-5 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo Lumine 2: 3-38-2 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo Shops: 11am-10pm Restaurants: 11am-11pm www.lumine.ne.jp/shinjuku/

is for… WOW FACTOR

Checking out an art exhibition in the midst of stores, popping up inside NEWoMan after taking the stairs from Shinjuku Station’s platform, using a Suica IC card to make purchases…Lumine sure doesn’t lack in the wow factor department.

LUMINE EST 3-38-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo Shops: 11am-10pm (weekends and hols from 10.30am) Restaurants: 11am-11pm www.lumine.ne.jp/est/

LUMINE Yurakucho 2-5-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo Shops: 11am-9.30pm (weekends and hols until 9pm) Restaurants: 11am-11pm www.lumine.ne.jp/yurakucho/

LUMINE Ikebukuro 1-11-1 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku, Tokyo Shops: 11am-9.30pm, Restaurants: 11am-11pm www.lumine.ne.jp/ikebukuro/

X Y Z

LUMINE Yokohama 2-16-1 Takashima, Nishi-ku, Yokohama-shi, Kanagawa Shops: 10am-9pm, Restaurants: 11am-11pm www.lumine.ne.jp/yokohama/

is for… X-CELLENT CUSTOMER SERVICE

Images for illustrative purposes only

Lumine's services include free wi-fi spots, multilingual staff who’ll help you out at the information desk, and hi-tech multilingual touch screen information panels installed on every floor at NEWoMan. When you’re on the move with tired kids, make use of the free babybaggy rental service.

is for… YOUR ONE-STOP TOUCH-UP SHOP

Rushed out from home or the office? If you realise something’s missing, just drop by Lumine for one last touch-up. From cosmetics and accessories to gifts, you’ll find all the essentials here.

is for… ZILLIONS OF OPTIONS

Fashionable clothes and accessories, cosmetics, books and sundry goods at the stores, tasty eats at the restaurants and so on – you’ll always have something more to look forward to at Lumine. There are so many options of things to do here, so you’ll find yourself running out of time before you know it!

NEWoMan NEWoMan 4-1-6 Shinjuku, Shinjuku 03 3352 1120 Shops: 11am-10pm, Food hall: 7am-4am, Ekinaka (inside station): 8am-10pm, Ekisoto (outside station): hours vary by shop www.newoman.jp

Craving even more information? Visit www.lumine.ne.jp

Art & Culture Inner space Theatre is not only about actors, directors, props, stages and scripts. The physical spaces in which stories are told are key components of the theatrical experience. Here we look at two unique creative spaces, designed by the actors themselves, which offer Tokyo audiences a fresh perspective on the performing arts. By Ayako Takahashi

KARAS APPARATUS

‘It’s different from a theatre because one can work there without limitations of space and time,’ says choreographer and dancer Saburo Teshigawara on Karas Apparatus, a creative space run by his company Karas. The inviting venue is located close to Ogikubo Station, at the end of an old-school shopping street, and occupies three floors. ‘A theatre is a visible place where you make presentations,’ says Teshigawara. ‘The preparatory work is usually invisible to the audience. However, as this is the part of the process where so much true creativity takes place, I wanted a space for making this part of the process visible.’ The day after Teshigawara discussed the possibility of opening such a performance space with Karas colleague Rihoko Sato, they came across the Ogikubo building. It was completely renovated before reopening as Karas Apparatus in July 2013, and now hosts everything from workshops to film screenings. Its most important programme remains the ‘Update Dance’ Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

from the streets outside. ‘Since it’s our own space, there’s a real sense of freedom,’ Teshigawara adds. ‘At first, Apparatus was thought of as a link between the theatre and the studio, but because there are so many things we can only do here, its role has grown and exceeded our initial expectations.’ Not an inch of floor space is wasted. ‘The hall, studio, foyer, stairs, dressing rooms – they’re all covered with dance mats,’ says Teshigawara. ‘As everything’s connected, you can really immerse yourself in the work being performed. We also make use of music and lighting to further alter the audience’s perspective.’ Short talks take place after every performance, and the audience can give feedback to the dancers. ‘I think putting things into words is really important,’ says Teshigawara. ‘Both in terms of dance and other forms of expression, there’s a need to find the right words – not in order to “understand”, but to foster an attitude of curiosity. Compared to, for example, writing on the internet, which is accessible

performance series, which has earned praise not only for offering people the rare chance to watch contemporary dance at point-blank range, but also for its reasonable ticket prices and convenient showtimes. ‘You can check it out as casually as you would check out a gig, and then decide for yourself whether to come back or not,’ says Teshigawara. It’s a space where the artistic experience begins the moment you step inside. A black dance mat covers the floor, and plants and aromas lead you into a world that seems a million miles

‘As everything’s connected, you can immerse yourself in the performance’

Saburo Teshigawara

to masses of people, there’s a different meaning when words are spoken directly to you.’ à5-11-15 Ogikubo, Suginami (Ogikubo Station). 03 6276 9136. st-karas.com/karas_apparatus.

TOIROAN

Just like Teshigawara in the field of dance, a few brave players in the theatre world have established their own studios. One of them is director and playwright Seri Kurosawa, whose Jikando theatre company set up the Toiroan studio and bar in Akabane in 2014. It’s a space for play development, workshops and performances, and is used by several other creative groups. ‘When visiting London, I grew

PHOTOS: KISA TOYOSHIMA

place where people and the stories that bind them together take centre stage.’ Kurosawa says that he hopes to hold more performances outside of Japan in the future. ‘Since we now have a base, a place to come back to, we have the ability to go further afield than before.’ For an artist, possessing a space that enables you to both create and perform isn’t the end point. Instead, it’s a platform upon which to build new opportunities. Such opportunities, and the innovative ways in which they are realised, are what make places such as Toiroan so exciting for audiences. àB1F, 2-48-16 Kamiya, Kita (Akabane Station). 03 6454 4308. toiroan.tumblr.com.

PHOTOS: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

to really like the idea of theatres that also function as pubs,’ says Kurosawa. ‘In Japan too, seeing a play is usually followed by drinks, so I thought why not combine the two? It was difficult to find the right place, but this former karaoke and snack bar turned out to be perfect – the noise isn’t a problem and we can serve drinks after the play is over.’ To save money, the Jikando folks built everything on their own – from the floor to the ceiling. ‘Working with a limited budget, the important thing is to have a vision for the space,’ says Kurosawa. ‘Toiroan is a white box, like a canvas coloured differently by each play. I hope it works as a

Seri Kurosawa

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

Art & Culture

New shows to see

but also displays specially commissioned art by local greats like Taiyo Matsumoto, Daisuke Igarashi, Shinichi Sakamoto, Katsuya Terada and Mari Yamazaki.

THE RUINED PALACE AT SOMA, UTAGAWA KUNIYOSHI. TRIPTYCH OF MULTICOLOR WOODBLOCK PRINTS, CA 1845-46. PRIVATE COLLECTION

FRIDA BY ISHIUCHI 2012/2016 ©ISHIUCHI MIYAKO

Learn about the supernatural side of Japanese art, peek into fashion impresario Paul Smith’s office and see what happens when manga meets Franco-Belgian comics

HIROHIKO ARAKI ‘ROHAN AT THE LOUVRE’ ©LUCKY LAND COMMUNICATIONS / SHUEISHA

ESSENTIAL EXHIBITIONS

à Mori Arts Center Gallery, Jul 22-Sep 25. Mori Tower 52F, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/TOTlouvre. 10am-8pm.

‘MIYAKO ISHIUCHI: FRIDA IS’

Acclaimed photographer Miyako Ishiuchi’s Frida Kahlo-themed books ‘Frida by Ishiuchi’ and ‘Frida, Love and Pain’ offer an intimate look into Kahlo’s everyday life. This show features 31 shots from those collections, including pictures of shoes, corsets and dresses worn by Frida during a life never short on drama.

BOYS’ JACKET, VET, PANTS AND HAT, TURKISH STYLE C.1900 MADE IN FRANCE, COLLECTION OF MR. PAUL ALEXANDER

‘FROM EERY TO ENDEARING: YOKAI IN THE ARTS OF JAPAN’

à Shiseido Gallery, until Aug 21. Tokyo Ginza Shiseido Bldg B1F, 8-8-3 Ginza, Chuo. 03 3572 3901. tinyurl.com/TOTfrida. 11am-7pm, Sun & hols 11am-6pm, closed Mon.

‘LOUVRE MUSEUM: LOUVRE NO. 9 MANGA, THE 9TH ART’

In recent years, the work of the Franco-Belgian comic book artists known as Bande Dessinee has begun earning the status of fine art in Europe. As the title of this exhibition suggests, graphic novels are the ‘ninth art’ – on a par with painting, sculpture, poetry, etc. – and have even infiltrated the hallowed halls of the Louvre. Since 2005, the Paris museum’s BD Project has been inviting comic artists from both France and elsewhere to create new Louvre-themed works for display. ‘Louvre No. 9’ not only brings works and materials from the BD Project’s past to Tokyo, Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

‘FASHION FOR CHILDREN’

An exhibition featuring children’s clothing from the West during the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries and from Japan from the 1900s to the 1940s, ‘Fashion for Children’ explores how these clothes reflect adult perceptions of what children should be. There are also over 100 paintings, illustrations, picture books and photographs, which tell the story of children’s wear through the ages and highlights what it means to grow up in different cultures around the world.

Yokai, the quirky, loveable and often downright petrifying supernatural creatures appearing all over Japanese folklore, get an exhibition all of their own. Consisting of four parts, it explores yokai in art from ancient dogu (clay figurines) all the way to the manga and anime of the 21st century, touching on the folk legend of the ‘Night Parade of One Hundred Demons’ and Heian-era depictions of hell before arriving at the ‘Yokai Watch’ craze which brought the spirit world bang up to date. à Edo-Tokyo Museum, Jul 5-Aug 28. 1-4-1 Yokoami, Sumida. 03 3626 9974. tinyurl.com/TOTyokai. 9.30am-5.30pm (Jul 9, 16 & 23 9.30am-7.30pm, Fri & Sat after from Jul 29 9.30am-9pm), closed Mon (except Jul 18, Aug 8 & 15) and Jul 19.

‘GRAPHIC TRIAL 2016: CROSSING’

Headed by graphic design heavyweights Minoru Niijima, Alan Chan and Rika Eguchi, the experimental Graphic Trial project aims to explore the relationship between graphic design and print media. ‘Crossing’, the project’s 11th exhibition, displays the frontrunners’ latest work

à Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum, Jul 16-Aug 31. 5-21-9 Shirokanedai, Minato. 03 3443 0201. tinyurl.com/TOTkidsfashion. 10am-6pm (Aug 5, 6, 12 & 13 10am-9pm), closed 2nd & 4th Wed of the month.

and looks at developing new techniques and innovations. Should be an interesting one, especially for industry types. à Printing Museum, Tokyo, until Sep 11. Toppan Koishikawa Bldg, 1-3-3 Suido, Bunkyo. 03 5840 2300. tinyurl.com/TOTgraphic. 10am-6pm, closed Mon (except Jul 18) and Jul 19.

‘12 ROOMS 12 ARTISTS: WORKS FROM THE UBS ART COLLECTION’

If you’ve got enough cash in your coffers, putting together a worldclass art collection shouldn’t take too much effort. Case in point is Swiss banking giant UBS, which lords over a whopping 30,000

Gallery 916 Small next door shows off Kawauchi’s video work.

works – mainly created after 1960. Usually decorating lobbies and boardrooms in glass-and-steel towers around the world, some of the collection’s greatest hits can now be viewed at the Tokyo Station Gallery, where the work of 12 artists has been divvied up into 12 rooms, one each for names including Nobuyoshi Araki, Ed Ruscha, David Hockney, Lucian Freud and Chen Chieh-Jen. Catch the selection of around 80 pieces before it’s ferried back beyond the reach of the great unwashed.

‘GLOBES IN MOTION’

The futuro-industrial Centre Pompidou in Paris holds the largest collection of modern art in Europe, rivalled only in its breadth and quality by New York’s MoMA. Now it comes to Ueno, with this 71-piece exhibition featuring one artwork from every year between 1906 and 1977. A challenging mix of modern and contemporary, it features masterpieces by the likes of Henri Matisse, Picasso and Wassily Kandinsky alongside lesser-known but no less interesting work in genres from painting and sculpture to photography, film and design. à Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum, until Sep 22. 8-36 Ueno Koen, Taito. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/ TOTcentrep. 9.30am-5.30pm, Fri 9.30am-8pm, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a hol) & Jul 19. Open Sep 20.

If you used to spend countless hours staring at world globes and memorising the curious names of distant lands and cities as a kid, then this exhibition is for you. Presenting an ongoing digitisation project between France’s National Library and Dai Nippon Printing, it allows you to view 10 terrestrial and celestial globes from past centuries along with accompanying screens which let you see into the past by offering views from the Age of Discovery onwards. One 18th-century globe can even be experienced immersively with the aid of a virtual reality headset. The exhibition is only open on weekends and requires advance reservations for all visitors.

‘HELLO, MY NAME IS PAUL SMITH’

Sir Paul Smith started his career in fashion at the age of 16, with a menial job in a clothing warehouse in Nottingham. Now 69, he’s built a global clothing empire spanning 70 countries, with over 200 shops in Japan alone. Defined by an instantly recognisable brand of English eccentricity, the Paul Smith label is one of the UK’s bestloved sartorial success stories. First held in London a couple of years back, this Ueno exhibition recreates Smith’s office in its entirety, providing a key to his eclectic tastes and sources of inspiration. It also details his rags-to-riches career path – rebuilding his miniscule first store in the museum, showing archive collections and, of course, a vast number of the antiques and art that frame Sir Paul’s network of never-ending ideas. à Ueno Royal Museum, Jul 27-Aug 23. 1-2 Ueno Koen, Taito. 03 3833 4191. tinyurl.com/ TOTpaulsmith. 11am-6pm, Fri 11am-8pm.

An honorary fellow of the Royal Photographic Society, and one of Japan’s most internationally lauded contemporary snappers, Rinko Kawauchi and her 15-year career are in focus at Takeshiba throughout summer. There are around 100 works on display including brand new shots taken for a recent solo exhibition in Vienna. Meanwhile sister space

‘MASTERPIECES FROM THE CENTRE POMPIDOU: TIMELINE 1906-1977’

UNTITLED, FROM THE SERIES OF ‘SEARCH FOR THE SUN’, 2015

‘RINKO KAWAUCHI: THE RAIN OF BLESSING’

à DNP Gotanda Building, until Sep 4. 3-5-20 NishiGotanda, Shinagawa. 03 5435 0880. tinyurl.com/ TOTglobes. Fri 6pm-9pm, Sat, Sun 10am-6pm.

à Gallery 916, until Sep 25. No 3 Suzue Bldg 6F, 1-14-24 Kaigan, Minato. 03 5403 9161. tinyurl. com/TOTrinko. 11am-8pm, Sat, Sun & hols 11am-6.30pm, closed Mon (except Jul 18 & Sep 19).

à Tokyo Station Gallery, Jul 2-Sep 4. Inside Tokyo Station, 1-9-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda. 03 3212 2485. tinyurl.com/TOTubs12. 10am-6pm, Fri 10am-8pm, closed Mon (except Jul 18) and Jul 19.

©ISAAC JULIEN. COURTESY OF THE ARTIST, VICTORIA MIRO, LONDON, ROSLYN OXLEY9, SYDNEY AND GALERIA NARA ROESLER, SAO PAULO UBS ART COLLECTION

Art & Culture

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

Music

Field of Heaven

Ready to Rock? Kunihiro Miki previews the 20th anniversary edition of Fuji Rock, Japan’s boldest and most beautiful summer music fest

MARKING 20 YEARS of action in 2016, Fuji

Rock will return to Niigata’s Naeba for a birthday party to remember from July 22 to 24. This year’s festival welcomes a beefy lineup that includes everything from big-name stadiumfillers to local indie upstarts, making it quite a challenge to decide what’s worth catching. Here’s how to do the fest right...

Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

Courtney Barnett

MAIN STAGES GREEN STAGE

The sound system at Fuji Rock’s centrepiece stage is pretty spectacular. The clear-cut tones will make you believe you’re at an actual arena rather than a field, surrounded by mountains and semi-naked festival goers. Headlining this year are Sigur Rós, Beck and the Red Hot Chili Peppers. The Chili Peppers have visited Fuji in the past, hitting the first and tenth editions of the festival, and now return on Saturday night to keep their once-a-decade streak alive. Don’t leave the stage right after their gig though, because the excellent Denki Groove will be closing up proceedings with some Japanese synthpop. Wilco, James Blake and Boredoms are other must-sees over the three days.

WHITE STAGE

One of the prettiest stages at any festival in the world, White boasts a spectacular natural backdrop. The on-stage antics should be pretty jaw-dropping too. Disclosure, Squarepusher and Battles headline, but don’t miss The Internet, Tortoise and the Japanese triple header of Babymetal, Ego-Wrappin’ and Soil & “Pimp” Sessions.

RED MARQUEE

It’s the story of two great comebacks in Fuji’s big maroon tent –The Album Leaf finally take the stage after they had to cancel their Fuji Rock show back in 2007 and, 16 years on from

Red Hot Chili Peppers

OTHER STAGES AND ATTRACTIONS There are a total of 13 stages set up at Fuji Rock and it is the smaller stages – each with its own theme – that make the festival so special. Here are our favourites...

THE ORANGE CAFE

An open mic spot where anyone can get up and perform. Anything from a speech, comedy to musical performance is welcome and you can finally experience what it feels like to be on stage at one of the world’s biggest festivals.

DAY DREAMING AND SILENT BREEZE

Café de Paris

It’s true when people say ‘the early bird catches the worm’. Catch the Naeba ropeway early in the morning and visit this stage sitting on top of the mountains, which is only open from morning until early afternoon. The heavenly location overlooks beautiful greenery and features mainly thumping dance tunes.

their era-defining album ‘Since I Left You’, The Avalanches return to active duty. Courtney Barnett, Låpsley and Jack Garratt also promise to take the roof off.

FIELD OF HEAVEN

Popular among experienced Fuji Rockers is the Field of Heaven stage, featuring funk and jam bands airing the aural equivalent of valium. Legendary artists Lee ‘Scratch’ Perry and Ernest Ranglin & Friends as well as The New Mastersounds, Kamasi Washington, Leon Bridges and Japanese bands like Rovo and dCprG will all be highpoints, but nothing over the three days will disappoint.

PYRAMID GARDEN

A more chilled out space where you can join a yoga session in the morning and various workshops throughout the day. The evening is set up with candles for those who want a calm and relaxed night of acoustic tunes.

CAFÉ DE PARIS

At the far end of the park is Café de Paris, a tent stage with a ‘Moulin Rouge’ vibe. Here you can sip on fancy cocktails and wine while watching burlesque performances. If you’re here Friday night, don’t miss the ‘All Night Fuji’ event where DJ Nobu and Orbital’s Phil Hartnoll will be spinning records until sunrise.

THE PALACE OF WONDER

The Palace of Wonder, located just outside the main festival area, allows revellers to party ‘til dawn while witnessing breathtaking circus performances and illusions.

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

Music

‘Japanese audiences always demand something new’ This summer Underworld return to Tokyo with with their viscerally engaging and inventive, hugely heartfelt take on posttechno. Kunihiro Miki talks to vocalist Karl Hyde about art, his love of Japanese audiences and where he goes to find peace in Tokyo.

Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

Music

KARL HYDE has never been your average rock

star. Despite Underworld’s globe-spanning, stadium-filling success, Hyde has always embraced experimentalism both in music and art. It was art that brought Hyde to Tokyo in March this year, and music that will bring him back again in August. The March visit was part of the 25th anniversary celebrations of Tomato– the art and design collective he co-founded. The collective took over Parco’s department store in Shibuya for three weeks where it was visited by over 20,000 people. Hyde worked with assistant Toru Yoshikawa to create an installation, Tokyo Street Poem, for the residency. Painted onto waste cardboard to reference the bedding materials of the homeless living on the streets. As Hyde danced, paintbrush and chalk in hand, he covered every surface, including himself, in marks inspired by the energy he encounters as he walks the city’s streets. Underworld opened the exhibition with a silent gig on the roof of Parco. Those scenes – where bemused onlookers were unable to understand why a band complete with strobe lights and a wildly dancing audience of 200, wasn’t making a sound – couldn’t be more different from the barnstorming set the pair promise at this year’s Summer Sonic festival. With 35,000 expected at the festival, things are liable to get loud, but the duo won’t let their status as headliners serve as an excuse for an auto-pilot ‘greatest hits’ set. ‘One of the reasons we love playing in Japan is that the audience always demands something new,’ says Hyde. ‘Because of that, we’re able to avoid becoming complacent and lazy. Whenever we come to Japan, we’re always thinking about the new things we can show our fans. That’s the kind of supportive approach our Japanese

fans have.’ So alongside hits such as ‘Born Slippy’ and ‘Push Upstairs’, Summer Sonic’s fields will also echo to the sounds of the duo’s new release ‘Barbara Barbara, We Face A Shining Future’, the group’s ninth studio album. Hyde is excited to share the tracks in a live environment. ‘There’s an “intuitive freedom” to this album compared to previous Underworld records,’ he says. ‘This one draws on a wider range of influences. It’s like we’re going back to our roots, to the time when we first became interested in electronic music. Rick [Smith – the other half of today’s Underworld] built this big modular synth and created all the sounds for the album on it. That really ties this work directly to the roots and history of electronic music.’ If Japan loves Underworld, then the feeling is mutual and there’s one place Hyde always seeks out when he’s in Tokyo – Meiji Shrine. ‘The fact a place like that, a shrine surrounded by a forest, exists right in the heart of this unbelievably exciting metropolis is incredible,’ he says. ‘Meiji Shrine is like a small Narnia, a magical wardrobe in the centre of the city. One moment you’re right in the middle of this hectic, ever-changing city, but as soon as you open the door of that wardrobe, another world opens in front of your eyes. You’re drawn into this lush forest and are like “Whoa, what just happened?”. Just walking along the road going through those woods, I feel like I’m back in the place where I grew up. It’s just a place that gets you in a pure, peaceful mood.’ A small wonder capable of surprising you and transporting you to another place? He could be talking about his own work. ‘Barbara Barbara, We Face A Shining Future’, is out now. Underworld play Chiba’s Summer Sonic on August 20 (see tinyurl.com/ TOTssonic2016 for festival details), and you can watch a video of Karl Hyde’s Tokyo Street Poem at tinyurl.com/TOTstreetpoem.

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

Nightlife TOKYO’S BEST

Brazilian bars Where to sip caipirinhas and catch a samba show or a bossa nova gig without leaving Tokyo. Words Kunihiro Miki THIS SUMMER the eyes of the

Saci Pererê

A pioneer among Tokyo’s Brazilian restaurants, this basement joint in Yotsuya has been in business since 1974 and continues to flourish on the back of its signature combo of live bossa nova and a Brazilian menu tweaked for local taste buds. Opened by bossa nova singer Lisa Ono’s father and now run by one of his other daughters, Saci Pererê is famed for its Maria Lunch, composed of fierce feijoada, a kale salad and a linguiça sausage – the perfect accompaniment to a caipirinha. Gig nights see cover charges starting from ¥1,500. à Hikarigaoka Yotsuya Bldg B1F, 9 Honshiocho, Shinjuku (Yotsuya Station). 03 3353 7521. tinyurl. com/TOTsaciperere. Mon-Thu 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-12midnight, Fri 6pm-12midnight. Closed Sat, Sun & hols.

Que Bom!

You’d never guess this joint was run by sportswear giant Athleta: Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

in Shibuya, head straight for this second-floor hideout where the samba is always turned up to eleven and the bar serves expertly mixed caipirinhas until 4am. You’ll also find a nice selection of boozecompatible bites, as well as several varieties of cachaça fit for on the rocks sipping. Que Bom!

Tucano’s Shibuya

Que Bom! is one of Tokyo’s finest Brazilian restaurants and music bars, and serves up churrasco that puts many of the city’s trendier meat-on-a-stick eateries to shame. Settle in for an evening of samba tunes and 14 varieties of juicy kebabs straight from the grill. Aim for a gig night and suitably fuelled you’ll be dancing the evening away Coquetel de Maracuja (cachaça and passion fruit juice) in hand.

Basement favourite Tucano has long served as a sanctuary for Shibuya carnivores in the know. Operating in a spacious location up on Dogenzaka for well over a decade, many of Tucano’s waiters are Brazilians, ensuring the kind of authenticity that keeps regulars coming back for the amply-stacked skewers. This hideaway is also renowned for its steamy samba shows, which take place up to four times a week – consider opting for one of the all-you-can-drink cocktail deals to make the most of the experience.

à Nikkosha Bldg B1F, 2-15-13 Nishi-Asakusa, Taito (Tawaramachi Station). 03 5826 1538. tinyurl.com/TOTquebom. Mon-Sat 5pm-11pm, Sun & hols 5pm-10pm.

‘The atmosphere will transport you 20,000 miles from Tokyo’

à B1F, 2-23-12 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 5784 2661. tinyurl.com/TOTtucanos. Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-9.30pm; Sat, Sun & hols 11am-2pm, 5pm-9.30pm.

Bar Blen Blen Blen

If you’re in the mood for drinking the night away to Brazilian grooves

à Nono Bldg 2F, 1-17-12 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3461 6533. tinyurl.com/ TOTbarblen. Tue-Sun 8pm-4am (irregular hours on Sundays). Closed Mon & hols.

Praça Onze

Catch a bossa nova, soul or samba gig at this casual basement bar and live house, located just a few minutes from Omotesando station but with an atmosphere that’ll transport you 20,000 miles from Tokyo. There’s someone playing at the 30-year-old venue almost every night, with performers ranging from local artists to visiting Brazilian greats. The drink menu includes the obligatory caipirinhas and caipiroskas, but also a nice variety of cachaças and fruit juices, while those looking to fill up shouldn’t miss the rich feijoada, among the best in the city. à B1F, 3-5-2 Kita-Aoyama, Minato (Omotesando Station). 03 3405 8015. tinyurl.com/TOTpracaonze. Tue 7pm-12midnight, Wed-Sat 7pm-1am. Closed Sun, Mon & hols.

TUCANO’S, SACI PERERÊ, BAR BLEN BLEN BLEN: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

world will be on Rio de Janeiro as the Olympics Games kicks off, but you don’t need to get on a plane to feel the samba spirit. Tokyo has a throng of Brazilian restaurants, bars and gig spots, where sweaty samba tunes or funky bossa nova accompany your caipirinha-sipping. Here are our five favourites...

Tucano’s Shibuya

Saci Pererê

Praça Onze

Bar Blen Blen Blen July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

Nightlife

Can’t stop the dance

Over the last few years in Japan there’s been a police crackdown going on. But it’s not the drug lords, corporate criminals or the mob who are feeling the long arm of the law – it’s the nation’s club-goers. Their crime? Dancing. The grounds for this is the Law on Control and Improvement of Amusement Business, or ‘fueiho’ in Japanese, enacted 68 years ago and effectively banning dancing in the majority of venues. Happily, an amendment to this antiquated law finally came into effect on June 23 – a move that may mark the beginning of radical change in Japan’s club culture. Kumi Nagano explains

WHAT ARE THE ISSUES WITH THE FUEIHO?

The act in question was created shortly after WWII, when the authorities saw dance halls as breeding grounds for prostitution and crime. Because the law includes clauses that make ’dancing at night’ illegal, this has meant that most contemporary clubs and DJs have been breaking the law every time they throw a party. A blind eye has often been turned, but the law has been cited in cases where club owners and DJs have been arrested following implications with other crimes in clubs. In addition, clubs have been compelled to shorten their operating hours and, in some cases, close altogether.

Committee. That group was involved in collecting signatures and lobbying to change the law. There have also been major contributions from lawyers and Diet (Japanese parliament) members, who worked hard to mediate between politicians and the administration and call for an amendment. These efforts bore fruit, and an amendment to the fueiho was ratified in June 2015 to the effect that the wording on ‘dancing’ was removed from the restrictions.

of the anachronistic law, DJs, artists and club owners collected 150,000 signatures and launched the Club and Club Culture Conference (CCCC). Major artists like Ryuichi Sakamoto and Yoshihide Otomo joined the call for change, creating the Let’s Dance Petition Promotion

‘Most clubs and DJs have been breaking the law every time they throw a party’

WHAT WILL HAPPEN WHEN THE AMENDED LAW GOES INTO EFFECT? After going into effect on June 23, the new law allows clubs to make an application to a newly created administrative body and obtain legal permission for allnight dancing. Many clubs will be able to legally operate until five in the morning. The law also

WHAT ACTIONS HAVE BEEN TAKEN TO GET THE LAW AMENDED? Following the continued indictment of clubs on the basis Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

makes it easier for entrepreneurs to invest in club culture, providing an economic platform for the nightlife industry to grow and create a Japan that, by the 2020 Olympics, is exciting both day and night. The hope is that this will not just involve commercialising the mainstream nightlife scene, but growing a new breed of diverse and exciting events and venues.

WHAT’S BEING PLANNED TO CELEBRATE?

All-night dancing becoming legal is obviously an excuse to party, not only for the club scene, but also for venues like cafés, hotels and live music venues that can now hold a wider range of nightlife events. New players are already showing up, with renowned Shibuya gig house WWW set to launch an allnight branch called WWW X in September. Expect it to be the first of many.

Nightlife

FIVE OF THE BEST

Clubs Now that there’s no danger of police raiding clubs for the heinous crime of booty-shaking, it’s time to break out your best moves. Here’s where to hit the dancefloor in Tokyo CONTACT

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Labelled the spiritual successor of sorely missed Tokyo alternative clubs Yellow, Eleven and Air, Contact provides muchneeded relief for the city’s more discerning friends of electronic tunes. The mediumsized space, in a basement on Shibuya’s Dogenzaka, consists of a dancefloor and bar area, and offers a stage to both international techno and house greats as well as local stars. à Shin-Taiso Bldg No 4 B2F, 2-10-12 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). contacttokyo.com.

CIRCUS TOKYO

Having taken over the Shibuya space vacated by long-running underground haunt Amate-Raxi, which closed down in summer 2015 after eight years of operation, Circus has been a real buzzgenerator on the Tokyo club scene since opening in October last year. Expect plenty of deep beats with the occasional techno set mixed in.

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

à Kano Bldg No 5 1F-B1F, 3-26-16 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). circus-tokyo.jp.

UNIT

A medium-sized space in Daikanyama that hosts everything from Japanese indie-

rock bands to international deck stars, Unit counts among the longer-running clubs in the city. Well worth checking out if you are a fan of minimal techno. à Za House Bldg, 1-34-17 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya (Daikanyama Station). unit-tokyo.com.

THE ROOM

The Room is well hidden, so look for a red street light poking out from the basement. Owned by members of the Kyoto Jazz Massive project, it’s a small venue split in two: one half is a concretewalled bar, the other a pitchblack dancefloor. The flavour is usually house, jazz, crossover or breakbeats. à Daihachi Tohto Bldg B1F, 15-19 Sakuragaokacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). theroom.jp.

SOLFA

Nakameguro’s lone nightclub is a pretty intimate affair, with space for 70 people on the dancefloor, plus a small lounge that can squeeze in a few dozen more. The crowd is usually young and hip, with plenty of local creatives calling Solfa their home away from home. Expect mainly house, hip hop and bass beats. à B1F, 1-20-5 Aobadai, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). nakameguro-solfa.com.

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

Promotional feature

ROBOT FEST Robot wars, battle drumming, electric trapezes – welcome to a matsuri like no other. Words Youka Nagase

LOCAL INSIGHT

SUMMER IS ‘MATSURI’ or festival season in Japan, with traditional parades and performances taking place across the country. But in Shinjuku’s Kabukicho district there’s a very different type of celebration going on every night. The neighbourhood’s Robot Restaurant has long been a must-visit thanks to its dancers, drummers and eight-foot androids, but this summer it is stepping up again with the introduction of its own matsuri parade.

IT’S ALIVE!

The big finale sees mechanics meet music in an all-action crescendo. The robots return, a guitarist whizzes around on an electric trapeze while a band plays J-Pop at full volume. It’s Disneyland’s Electrical Parade meets Transformers – a glorious neon attack on the senses that you’ll be struggling to describe once you get home.

EXPERIENCE A MATSURI INDOORS

Robot Restaurant’s original take on the matsuri extravaganza features taiko drummers dressed in kabuki wigs and face paint, musicians suspended in mid-air and gravity-defying dancers. But it’s the robots that really make it stand out from the crowd. This season has seen the introduction of some new mechanical marvels including a fisherman's boat, complete with mechanical crab and octopus, rotating sushi plates and a flashing mikoshi (portable shrine).

ROBOT WARS

From here on things start to get really strange. Only in Japan would your dinner be accompanied by an epic battle between gigantic, fire-breathing robots. An action movie brought to life, the Robot Wars section is an android vs android smackdown featuring two teams – one good, one bad – locked in epic battle. Look out for the eerily realistic snake robot, and make sure not to miss the dragon-bot, a flame-spouting beast that will leave your jaw on the floor.

Bring the discount coupon on page 57 with you to Robot Restaurant HOW TO BOOK: Robot Restaurant is open for three shows daily, starting at 5.55pm, and get ¥2,000 off 7.50pm and 9.45pm (with an additional show at 4pm on weekends and holidays), and the format your bill. is changed every few months to keep things fresh. You can reserve your spot a couple of days ahead by calling the number below between 9am and 10pm. The entrance fee is ¥8,000, excluding food and drinks. Note that the schedule might change due to maintenance. Shinjuku Robot Bldg, 1-7-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 3200 5500. www.shinjuku-robot.com. 4pm-11pm daily.

Visit Godzilla’s stomping grounds

Film

Retrace the Big G’s giant steps through Tokyo with Matt Schley

28 Godzilla flicks to date – are reviving the Big G, with this summer’s ‘Godzilla Resurgence’, helmed by Hideaki Anno (‘Neon Genesis Evangelion’) and Shinji Higuchi (‘Attack on Titan’). To celebrate the return of our favorite movie monster, we’ve put together a list of Tokyo spots where Godzilla has left his mark over the years.

it multiple times over the course of his cinematic career, including in his very first appearance. In real life the building, completed in 1936, has proved much more resilient, surviving the firebombings of World War II and a freak lightning strike in 2003. Several parts of the building are open to the public, including the emperor’s richlyadorned resting room.

TOKYO TOWER

COSMO CLOCK 21

GODZILLA’S BACK . Toho – the studio behind

Stomped in: ‘Godzilla: Tokyo S.O.S.’ (2003), ‘Godzilla: Final Wars’ (2004) Weirdly enough, it took Godzilla until 2003 to do any serious damage to this iconic Eiffel Tower-aping mast, although it’s endured plenty of abuse over the years from fellow kaiju Mothra and Gamera. Completed in 1958, Tokyo Tower may have been dwarfed in size by the new Tokyo Skytree, but its prime location and reasonable entrance fee mean it is still worth a visit – so long as there are no giant monsters in town.

NATIONAL DIET BUILDING

Stomped in: ‘Godzilla’ (1954), ‘King Kong vs. Godzilla’ (1962), ‘Godzilla vs. Mothra’ (1992), ‘Godzilla: Tokyo S.O.S.’ (2003) Godzilla has not been kind to the home of Japan’s bicameral legislature, destroying

Stomped in: ‘Godzilla vs. Mothra’ (1992) This Ferris wheel, at one time the world’s largest, was part of the epic conclusion of 1992’s ‘Godzilla vs. Mothra’. Cosmo Clock 21 is the centerpiece of Yokohama’s amusement park Cosmoworld, located in Minato Mirai. The Ferris wheel, from which you can see Tokyo Bay and, on a good day, even Mt. Fuji, takes 15 minutes to complete one loop. That’s 30 seconds per Godzilla film.

WAKO

Stomped in: ‘Godzilla’ (1954) One of Godzilla’s earliest targets, the Wako building is a longstanding symbol of Tokyo’s upscale shopping area Ginza. Erected in 1932 and topped by an iconic clock tower, it was toppled by the overgrown newt on his debut (no respect for history, that guy...). Wako is

now peak Ginza, selling high-end watches, jewellery, home décor, and all that fancy stuff that screams ‘Ginza’. Let’s hope they took out atomic lizard insurance.

GODZILLA STATUES

You don’t serve as Japan’s most famous monster for over 60 years without getting a few statues built in your honour. The largest (and most recent) of these tributes is also the easiest to find – just enter Kabukicho, Shinjuku’s nighttime playground, and look up. A giant statue of Godzilla’s head looms over the ‘hood from the top of the new Toho Cinemas/Hotel Gracery complex, which even has one room decked out in Godzilla merch. Another Toho Cinema on the other side of town in Ginza hosts a much more modest statue of the lizard himself. About four feet tall, this Small G stands protecting the square in front of the cinema. Finally, hardcore fans willing to go a bit off the beaten tourist track should check out the giant Godzilla mural and two-metre bronze statue at Toho Studios in Setagaya. Just be aware it’s about a ten-minute walk from the nearest station (or, in Godzilla terms, about three steps). à Godzilla Resurgence opens July 29. July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

LGBT About face Scarlett’s stunning portrait pictures have long been a highlight of many a Facebook feed. Homages to various villains, they can make other artists seem more drab than drag. Now Scarlett is offering to teach Joe public how to get the look. By Mayumi Koyama

When did you start offering makeup lessons? After I came to Tokyo in 2012. I have a friend who is a burlesque dancer, and I taught her how to draw double line [one of the eye cosmetic techniques used by drag queens]. It was a hit on stage, and soon other dancers were begging me to teach them too. That’s when I started offering lessons. What is special about your lessons? Everyone knows that stage make-up should be applied thickly, but there were no Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

professionals teaching people how to do it effectively. Most performers, including drag queens, pick it up by themselves by following their seniors’ example. I am not a make-up professional, but I have a background in art – I graduated from an arts university and I have taken art classes since I was little. You can think of my lessons as a painting workshop, with people using their own faces as a canvas. Since no two people have the same face, it isn’t very easy to follow the directions in a beauty make-up book. I approach each face differently – once my students get the basic function of each make-up, they can become self-reliant, both for the stage and for everyday looks. Do you still have time to perform on stage? I only really take to the stage at Halloween these days, when my exaggerated style is really in demand. When I get myself on stage, I try to offer an original show that nobody else can do. I never compete or compare myself with other performers. I produce every element

of the show – I think that is the indispensable etiquette of an entertainer. You can also make costumes. What do you take into account when making outfits? When it is for other people, I will listen carefully to their requests and make it durable to enable them to wear it many times. In the case of my own costumes, I will make them look expensive and gorgeous no matter what. Even if the materials are nearly cost free – and I have used black plastic garbage bags before – no drag queen should look cheap. Any future goals? In the near future, I will continue developing the make-up lessons. As for my dream, I would like to release my portrait collections in some way. I actually look better in stills than when I perform. [chuckles] Don’t you think ‘drag queen tarot cards’ could be interesting? à For more information on Scarlett’s classes see bizarremakeuplesson.blog.fc2.com

PHOTO: MIKAN HAGIWARA

How did you become Scarlett? I originally wore make-up to beat the bullies. I went to junior high school in Niigata prefecture. I was a transfer student who loved flashy things and visual rock bands and the other students bullied me, calling me a ‘weird gay’. Rather than crying, I dared to start going to school with make-up on to provoke those students further. Then, when I was a university student at Kyoto University of Art and Design, I joined the oldest drag queen party in Japan, ‘Diamonds Are Forever’, as a performer. I hadn’t actually realised I was homosexual then, but it was very natural for me to be a drag queen.

Sport

Different strokes Kosuke Hagino tells us about taking over as Japan’s Olympic team leader, going for gold in Rio and swimming against Michael Phelps Interview: Paul Banks

PHOTO: SHO TAMURA/AFLO SPORT

AS OLYMPIC RECORD-BREAKER

Michael Phelps looks to cement his legacy in Rio this summer, Japan’s Kosuke Hagino will be plotting the American’s downfall. The 21-year-old, who edged Phelps to take bronze in the 400 metres individual medley four years ago, has targeted double gold in Brazil. That could spell trouble for Phelps and London gold medallist Ryan Lochte, both of whom tower over the five foot nine inch Hagino. ‘I think I can win the 200 and 400m medleys,’ says Hagino. ‘Four years ago I wasn’t thinking about winning to be honest. But this time there will be no excuse.’ Hagino has also taken over as Japan’s team leader after namesake Kosuke Kitajima, who won two gold medals at both the 2004 and 2008 games, failed to

qualify for Rio. ‘I can never be another Kitajima,’ insists Hagino. ‘But to think kids could one day want to be like me is of course motivation. Being able to swim at the Olympics and challenge Phelps and Lochte for gold is a huge privilege. I won’t take that for granted when I’m in Rio.’ Hagino, who missed last year’s world championships after he fell off his bicycle and fractured his arm, also has hopes of medalling in the 200 metre freestyle and the men’s 4x200 relay. But the medley is Hagino’s bread and butter, while knocking off Phelps – the most decorated Olympian of all time with 22 medals, 18 of them gold – has become something of an obsession. ‘I always looked up to Phelps,’ says Hagino. ‘I used to watch his

races on TV, like when he won eight gold medals in Beijing. But when I get in the pool I just want to beat him.’ Even if Hagino pulls off his ambition in Rio, there is no danger of the soft-spoken Japanese swimmer getting ahead of himself. ‘If I beat Phelps, I’ll still be miles behind him,’ he says. ‘But it would give me the motivation to aim even higher,

‘Four years ago I wasn’t thinking about winning... but this time there will be no excuse’ 61

that’s for sure.’ Hagino also speaks in hushed tones when the subject returns to Kitajima. ‘I don’t have the ability Kitajima-san had or the right to be the team leader really,’ he says. ‘There are many more senior Japanese swimmers I can learn from but hopefully I can set an example through my results. I certainly can’t fill the void (left by Kitajima) on my own.’ Despite his tender years, Hagino is already looking at leaving his own legacy with the 2020 Tokyo Olympics just four years away. ‘The Tokyo Games are next and that is a real incentive and something I’m really looking forward to,’ he says. ‘But I have a lot to do before then, starting with Rio. I have to make sure I peak at the right time. I’m confident I will.’ July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

Travel & Hotels

Get out of town Welcome to Tokyo – now get out! One of the best things about the city is that it’s so easy to go out and explore the surrounding beaches, mountains and resorts. This becomes even more welcome in the stifling summer months. Here are our picks of the best destinations less than two hours away. By Megan Waters

KARUIZAWA

Nestled at the foot of Mount Asama, the most active volcano in Honshu, lies the upmarket resort town of Karuizawa. Many wealthier Tokyoites own second homes here and the area – like much of Nagano prefecture – exudes exclusivity. Start your day at Karuizawa Ginza in the old part of the town, with its traditional shops, cafés, restaurants and stalls selling locally-produced jams and honey. Serious shoppers searching for serious discounts should head to the Karuizawa Prince Shopping Plaza near the train station. This Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

Karuizawa

discount shopping outlet is home to over 200 stores set in a sprawling and beautifully landscaped area – great for kids to run wild while you splash the cash. When your credit cards scream for mercy, escape to the open-air Tombo-no-yu bath house for a peaceful soak. Finish off your day at Harunire Terrace. Order yourself a pint of the delicious locally-brewed Yona Yona ale, contemplate how the other half live and devise your own get rich quick scheme so you can join them.

Hayama

à Getting there: Karuizawa is just over an hour from Tokyo on the Hokuriku Shinkansen. Get the JR Tokyo Wide Pass (¥10,000) for unlimited travel on all JR trains in the Kanto area over three consecutive days. hoshinoresorts.com/en/resortsandhotels/daytrip/ tonbo.html

to Isshiki Beach in the town’s northwest corner for swimming, kayaking, sailing, windsurfing and paddleboarding. Considered one of the best beaches in Japan due to the clean, ash-coloured sand, postcard-cute beach houses and surprising lack of crowds, it has been a favourite of the Imperial family since the 1980s. With impressive views over the bay and marina, the nearby Hayama Marina is a great spot for a light lunch or an afternoon

HAYAMA

Located in Kanagawa prefecture on the northern end of the Miura Peninsula, which divides Tokyo Bay from Sagami Bay, this picturesque seaside town is one of the most popular summertime destinations for Tokyoites. If you love your water sports, head over

coffee while gazing out over the water. à Getting there: Hayama is an hour from Tokyo. Take the JR Shonan-Shinjuku or Yokosuka Line from central Tokyo to Zushi Station. From here, transfer to the number 12 bus to Hayama. hayamamarina.com

KATSUNUMA

Although better known for its sake than its vino, Japan has actually been producing amazing wines using locally-grown grapes since the 1800s. Katsunuma, in Yamanashi prefecture, is home to

PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

‘When your credit cards scream for mercy, escape to the open-air bath house for a peaceful soak’

Hodosan Shrine, Chichibu

or Kaiji from Tokyo’s Shinjuku Station to KatsunumaBudokyo Station. budounooka.com

KAMAKURA

31 wineries which between them account for about 30 percent of all Japanese wine. Many offer tasting sessions and lessons in winemaking as well as tours. Three of the best are Chateau Mercian, Haramo Wine and the Suntory Tomi no oka Winery. The local Koshu grape produces a distinctively pale, straw-coloured wine with a soft, fruity bouquet and overtones of citrus and peach. Experience it yourself at Budo no Oka (Grape Hill). Here, you

can soak in magnificent views of the surrounding vineyards and the Japanese Southern Alps to the west – Yamanashi is home to Mount Fuji – while tasting more than 150 varieties of wine. At just ¥1,100 for the all-you-can-drink experience, there’s a temptation to overdo it, but there’s plenty else to enjoy on site including a terrific barbecue restaurant and open-air hot spring. à Getting there: Katsunuma is around 1 hour 30 minutes on the JR Chuo Line Limited express Azusa

Shinjuku station to Kamakura, as well as unlimited use of the Enoden Line for the day. odakyu.jp/ english/deels/freepass/enoshima_kamakura/

This small coastal town is often referred to as the Kyoto of Eastern Japan for its multitude of temples, shrines and historical monuments. It was the country’s political capital during the Kamakura shogunate (1185– 1333) and there’s plenty to do and see here. Top of the list should be a visit to the Great Buddha of Kamakura (Kamakura Daibutsu). This towering bronze statue of the celestial buddha is the second tallest in Japan and stands at 13.35m. Originally cast in 1252, the buddha has been peacefully watching over its visitors since 1495. If you have a little more time, pay a visit to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, Kamakura’s largest Shinto shrine. Considered the town’s most important monument, it was built in 1063 by Yoritomo Minamoto, founder of the Kamakura Shogunate and the first Shogun in the Kamakura Period. You can reach the site via a long, wide approach that leads from Kamakura’s waterfront through the city centre, with multiple torii gates along the way. The grounds include the main hall, a museum and many secondary shrines as well as beautiful ponds and trees. Look out for a horseback archery display in mid-September, performed along the main approach.

CHICHIBU

à Getting there: Kamakura is less than an hour from Tokyo via the JR Yokosuka or Shonan-Shinjuku Line from Shinjuku Station. The cheapest but, at 90 minutes, slowest route is via the Enoshima Kamakura Free Pass (¥1,470), which provides a round trip from

à Getting there: Reach Chichibu’s Seibu-Chichibu Station on the Seibu Line in about 80 minutes from Tokyo’s Ikebukuro Station. http://www.sainokunikanko.jp/eng/sightseeingspot/023.html

Located within ChichibuTama National Park in the mountainous western region of Saitama prefecture, Chichibu is a magnet for outdoor enthusiasts. The park’s mountains are nonvolcanic and have an average height of 1,000m, meaning river valleys beautifully showcase each season with their vibrant colours. With over 1,262 kilometres to explore, it can be difficult to know where to start. Mount Mitsumine is the most famous peak thanks to the ancient Shinto shrine at its top. Hitsujiyama Flower Park is another must-see. Set against an impressive backdrop of Mount Buko and known for its sea of pink and white Shibazakura (moss phloxes), it overlooks the entire city area of Chichibu. The park features around 1,000 cherry trees, including yoshino cherry, weeping cherry and double-petal cherry trees. For something a bit livelier, hit up the Kawase matsuri (summer festival) held on July 19-20. The festival features eight groups carrying special dashi floats around the city. Mikoshi (portable shrines) are carried into the Arakawa River before being brought to special spots in each neighbourhood where they are enshrined to bring the festival to a close.

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

Hostel takeover

Travel & Hotels

Best for… being in the heart of the action Bunka Hostel Tokyo

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

This hostel is located at the end of a shopping arcade not too far from Kaminarimon, the tourist hub of Asakusa. Having taken over a decrepit commercial building and given it a complete makeover, Bunka Hostel opened last December and is a classy, modern looking place cut through with a distinctly Japanese look. The entrance, dotted with beautiful local tiles, is particularly gorgeous. Although the dorm rooms are the most popular, we’d recommend opting for the Family Room with its views of the Skytree and Sensoji Temple’s five-storey pagoda. Izakaya Bunka, their bar and restaurant located on the ground floor, is open to all: make sure to try their Shabu Shabu hotpot paired with Bunka’s original sake. à1-13-5 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 5806 3444. tinyurl. com/TOTbunkahostel.

Best for... foodies Kaisu Akasaka is developing a reputation as a restaurant hub and this hostel provides the perfect place to sleep off an excessive dinner. It’s housed in a converted restaurant, with the old culinary equipment, furniture and sign all repurposed. The café bar on the ground floor serves food made with ingredients from a local farmer’s market, and freshly-brewed coffee made with beans from Amameria Espresso and Ogawa Coffee. You can choose between dormitory-style rooms with big beds or a private, Japanese-style, room for two. à6-13-5 Akasaka, Minato (Akasaka Station). 03 5797 7711. kaisu.jp. Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

Travel & Hotels

As Tokyo gears up for the 2020 Olympics, the need for rooms has seen a host of buildings being converted into an exciting new breed of boarding houses. Mari Hiratsuka rounds up the hottest hostels around.

Best for... socialising Irori Nihonbashi Hostel and Kitchen Located in one of Japan’s oldest wholesale districts, Irori Nihonbashi Hostel and Kitchen is a friendly home away from home that attracts chatty types from around the world. Its Japanese-style indoor fireplace, located in the middle of the main room, provides a beautiful centrepoint and has sparked many a fascinating conversation over the years. Keep an eye out for the events at which you get to experience Japanese cuisine made right by fireplace. Bedrooms feature handmade beds carved out of cypress trees. Narita and Haneda airports are easily accessible with one train from Higashi-Nihonbashi Station, and popular tourist destinations like Asakusa and Ginza are easy to get to as well. à5-13 Nihonbashi-Yokoyamacho, Chuo. 03 6661 0351. tinyurl. com/TOTiroihostel.

Best for... reading in bed Ever dreamed of being surrounded by books while sleeping? Book worms rejoice, because this new hostel in Ikebukuro offers bedrooms that are like a secret hideout, surrounded by shelves of endless books. You can choose from a private bedroom or capsule room overnight, or even stay for ¥540 per hour during the day. All the books come from Shibuya Publishing & Booksellers, and the selection is divided into ‘fun’ and ‘sleep-friendly’ categories meaning you can choose from 2,000 books on offer, from city guides to manga comics. Turn those screens off and let print lull you to sleep. àLumiere Bldg 7F, 1-17-7 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima (Ikebukuro Station). tinyurl.com/TOTbookbed.

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Book and Bed Tokyo

July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

Stay strong, Kumamoto Two powerful earthquakes hit Kyushuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kumamoto prefecture on April 14 and 16, killing at least 49, injuring thousands and forcing many local residents to abandon their homes. Historic Kumamoto Castle also suffered extensive damage. The recovery process is well on its way, but serious challenges still remain. Our thoughts go out to everyone affected by this disaster. Visit forkumamoto.yahoo.co.jp for more information on how you can help the disaster victims.

TOHOKU UPDATE

Pitching in In the latest of our reports on how Japan is rebuilding after the 2011 natural disasters, Nick Narigon talks to former international rugby player Jiro Ishiyama about how the sport can help. Words Nick Narigon

‘This is an opportunity for Kamaishi not only to be restored, but reborn’

IMAGES COURTESY OF SCRUM KAMAISHI

TWO WEEKS AFTER the March 11 2011 tsunami and earthquake, Jiro Ishiyama drove the 10-plus hours from his Shizuoka home to deliver food, gasoline and other much-needed goods to Kamaishi, a town on Japan’s northeast coast. He was shocked by what he found. The city in Iwate prefecture where he was once a rugby hero had been decimated by the surging sea, and more than 1,200 residents, approximately 2.5 percent of the population, had been killed or were missing. ‘I couldn’t stop thinking that if I had lived and worked there as I used to, I would have been hit by the tsunami and earthquake,’ says Ishiyama, 59. ‘So I have been asking myself, “is there any way to help the people of Kamaishi? What can I do for them?” I couldn’t ignore their suffering.’ In May 2011, Ishiyama and a group of like-minded rugby fans formed NPO Scrum Kamaishi with the intent to support the local rugby team, the Kamaishi Seawaves. They succeeded in bringing the 2019 Rugby World Cup to the blue-collar fishing village. ‘When I came to Kamaishi from Akita, I was 18 years old and an obscure rugby player,’ says Ishiyama. ‘It was in Kamaishi that I grew up to be a national player and experienced many victories. So I thought it was time to repay what I owed.’ Rugby was a minor sport in Kamaishi until the Nippon Steel club team went on an unprecedented run from 19781985, winning seven straight Japan Cup trophies. Rugby journalist Hiromitsu Nagata, a board member of Scrum Kamaishi, says rugby became so popular that during a 1981 match against New Zealand’s Ponsonby club, spectators watched from nearby rooftops. Five Kamaishi players, including Ishiyama, played on Japan’s famous 1983 national team that nearly defeated the venerated Wales team. Nippon Steel shuttered its blast furnace

in 1988 when Japan’s economic bubble burst, and funding for the rugby club discontinued in 2000. The publicly-supported Seawaves formed in 2001, although they have never cracked Japan’s Top League. The 2011 tsunami not only wiped away homes, but also Kamaishi’s livelihood. By 2015, the population, which was 50,000 in 2001, dropped to 36,000. Within months after the 2011

disaster, Scrum Kamaishi board members delivered documents to the Kamaishi city office proposing to build a new rugby stadium and entice the Rugby World Cup to Kamaishi. With 500 to 600 families living in temporary housing, it was a hard sell. ‘The top priority for the city office of Kamaishi was to reconstruct the city, not the World Cup,’ says Nagata. ‘On the other hand, they needed tools to solicit money, or

influence. We told them hosting a World Cup match would be beneficial because the Japanese government will turn their attention to Kamaishi.’ Nagata also made the case that the stadium project and the event itself will provide job opportunities for Kamaishi’s future workforce. ‘I emphasised that being a host city is not the goal for Kamaishi,’ says Nagata. ‘But it is an aid for the city’s reconstruction and will provide for a better future.’ The right people were convinced and in 2015 it was announced that Kamaishi was selected as Japan’s smallest host city for the 2019 Rugby World Cup. The 16,000seat Kamaishi Recovery Memorial Stadium will be constructed. To assist in the city’s rebuilding, Scrum Kamaishi also organises an annual charity bike ride from Fukushima to Kamaishi and hosts the annual Tomodachi Cup, where children receive rugby tutorials from the local heroes, as well as international stars such as Eddie Jones, the coach of England’s national team. ‘I hope rugby will promote new opportunities for Kamaishi’s boys and girls, and will help make Kamaishi an attractive and fascinating city in the near future,’ says Ishiyama. ‘This is an opportunity for Kamaishi not only to be restored, but to be reborn.’ July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

Getting Around Cruise control

Opt for a bus ride on water this summer. Words Youka Nagase TRAINS ARE OBVIOUSLY the most popular

form of public transport in Tokyo, but if you have the time why not avoid the squeeze and take to the water to get around instead? These are our favourite water-based transportation options, which not only take you from A to B but also work as casual sightseeing trips.

Himiko by Tokyo Cruise

This eye-catching water bus boasts a cartoonish look courtesy of manga artist Leiji Matsumoto. The streamlined body is based on the image of a teardrop, giving it a futuristic look, and the glass-heavy sides and roof mean you can enjoy great views of Tokyo while cruising through the city. Himiko takes you from Asakusa to Odaiba or Toyosu and back, with boarding stops at Asakusa and Odaiba Seaside Park. A one-way ticket for adults costs ¥1,560, children aged six to 12 pay ¥930 and children under six ¥300. Tickets from suijobus.co.jp.

Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

Hotaluna by Tokyo Cruise

A revamped version of Himiko, Hotaluna looks like a spaceship with its silver, ultrastreamlined silhouette. You can walk around the deck of the boat and enjoy the views outdoors, perhaps accompanied by a vanilla gelato, served in a mille-feuille cone with rich espresso poured on top – the perfect pick-me-up on a hot summer’s day. A trip from Asakusa via Hinode Pier to Odaiba costs ¥1,560, AsakusaHinode is ¥1,080, and Hinode to Odaiba will set you back ¥780. Children ride for half price. Tickets from suijobus.co.jp.

Kawasemi Waterbus by Tokyo Mizube Cruising Line

If you’re looking for a more intimate ride, it’s all aboard the Kawasemi Waterbus, which only has a capacity of 64. Its compact size means it can make its way through the city’s many narrow waterways, offering views the big boys cannot. You can choose either their Nihonbashi/Kanda River Cruise (adults ¥2,060, children ¥1,030),

or the Asakusa-Nihonbashi Cruise (prices vary by distance). The former justifies its extra cost with a rare glimpse of Tokyo’s smaller canals complete with beautiful bridges. Tickets from tokyo-park.or.jp/waterbus/ english/index.html

Asakusa-Odaiba Cruise by Tokyo Mizube Cruising Line

This cruise starts at Ryogoku, also known as Sumo Town, and swans along the Sumida River to Asakusa before heading to Odaiba and back to Ryogoku – roughly an hour’s worth of cruising. The views of Kachidoki’s towers and Rainbow Bridge from the river are pretty spectacular. Fares start from ¥310, but can go up to ¥2,160 depending on where you get off. Playing with extra cash? Add a meal plan for lunch or dinner at a restaurant near Asakusa, Odaiba, Ryogoku or Kasai (check the website for a list of options). Tickets from tokyo-park.or.jp/waterbus/ english/index.html

Getting Around

Going Goingunderground? underground? Welcome to the world’s most efficient transport system

Welcome to the world’s most efficient transport system

Getting Around 69 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 77

Getting Around

wowing Tokyo boozehounds with gorgeous views toward Marunouchi, upscale French cuisine and free-flowing drinks. Two of those winning ingredients will be back for this year: the onion soups and foie gras have been swapped for more down-toearth yakisoba, fried chicken and chips. The drinks menu has been bolstered to compensate, though, and now includes highballs, wine, shochu and umeshu. All-you-candrink deals start from ¥5,000.

DISCOVER TOKYO’S

Pop-up beer gardens

à Until Sep 10. 5pm-10pm. 2-10-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda (Yurakucho Station). tinyurl.com/TOTsunset

Take it outside this summer with our guide to Tokyo’s best summer-only spots for open-air drinking. Guide: Ili Saarinen

YEBISU BAR THE GARDEN @ KASUMIGASEKI COMMON GATE ANNEX

Bureaucrats working late must look down in envy at the wooden patio outside Kasumigaseki’s Yebisu Bar, which turns into a raucous beer garden for the duration of the summer. Drinking outdoors just feels better when you’re doing it right in the seat of Japanese political power. Advance bookings for groups of four or more come with a choice of Bronze (¥3,000), Silver (¥4,500), Gold (¥5,000) or Platinum (¥6,500) courses that include unlimited Yebisu beer, highballs and wine. à Until Sep 30. 5pm-10.30pm, Sat 4pm-10pm, closed Sun (Sun, Sat & hols in Sep). 3-2-1 Kasumigaseki, Chiyoda (Toranomon, Kasumigaseki stations). tinyurl.com/TOTyebisubeer

LUMINE BEER GARDEN @ LUMINE EST

Back for the third year running, the pop-up rooftop beer garden at Shinjuku’s Lumine offers allyou-can-eat barbecued goodness, desserts like cotton candy and bottomless tropical drinks for a flat ¥4,050 per person. Daylight imbibers will be happy to hear that this one is also open for lunch in July and August, albeit with a slightly trimmed-down menu. Some Friday evenings see electric performances courtesy of the lightly clad CyberJapan Dancers unit. Fried chicken, fruity mojitos and booty-shaking – things are unlikely to get boring at this one. à Until Sep 30. 4pm-11pm (Sat, Sun from 12noon). 3-38-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). tinyurl.com/TOTlumine Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

Mad for matcha – the finely ground green tree that promises to cure all ills? Then you’ll love the garden at Ochanomizu’s informatively named Green Tea Restaurant 1899, where ¥3,800 gets you two hours of all-you-can-drink beer with a twist. The six available varieties include ‘standard’ green tea beer, green tea dark beer and non-alcoholic green tea beer – all of them are an acquired taste. The less adventurous can opt for more familiar options including Premium Malts and Asahi Kuronama. You’ll need to pay extra to eat, but it is worth it for the matcha – and the hojichaflavoured French fries and matcha croquettes.

JINGISUKAN BEER TERRACE @ ODAKYU SHINJUKU

Shinjuku has its fair share of beer gardens, but Odakyu’s rooftop spot has the edge on most of the competition with its impressive night views, tasty grills and reasonably-priced set menus. The main edible attraction here is jingisukan, the grilled lamb dish popular in Hokkaido and named after Mongol warlord Genghis Khan – in addition to this centrepiece, the Lamb Jingisukan (¥5,400) set comes with Hokkaido cheese and barbecued veg, plus two hours of free-flowing drinks.

à Until Sep 30. 5.30pm-11pm. 3-4 KandaSurugadai, Chiyoda (Ochanomizu Station). tinyurl. com/TOTmatchabeer

à Until Oct 30. 12noon-10.30pm (from Sep 5 Mon-Fri 4pm-10pm, Sat, Sun 12noon-10pm). 1-1-3 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). tinyurl. com/TOTjingisukan

HIGHBALL GARDEN & ROOFTOP JINGISUKAN @ TOKYO TOWER

Tokyo Tower welcomes the outdoor boozing season with a double dose of whisky highballs. There’s a neck-craning terrace at the base of the tower, where a lengthy menu of highballs (prices start at ¥580) is combined with a variety of alcohol-friendly snacks. Meatier options are available on the roof of the Tower Foot Town building. Just keep an eye on the weather forecast: both terraces close in heavy rain.

ROOFTOP OYSTER BEER GARDEN @ SHIBUYA MODI

Opened last year, the bar on the roof of new Shibuya mall Modi serves up a terrace deal centred on the restaurant’s favourite delicacy: oysters. There’s an eclectic selection of all things clam, from straight out of the shell raw to oyster shooters, combined with free-flowing drinks for ¥4,612. The menu is set to change regularly during the opening period, giving you an excuse to keep coming back.

à Until Oct 2. Mon-Fri 4pm-10.30pm, Sat, Sun 12noon-10.30pm. 4-2-8 Shiba Koen, Minato (Kamiyacho, Onarimon, Akabanebashi stations). tinyurl.com/TOThiball

à Until Sep 30. 11am-11.30pm. Shibuya Modi 9F, 1-21-3 Jinnan, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). tinyurl. com/TOToyster

MATCHA BEER GARDEN @ GREEN TEA RESTAURANT 1899

OMOHARA BEER FOREST @ TOKYU PLAZA OMOTESANDO HARAJUKU

GINZA SKY BEER TERRACE @ KOTSU KAIKAN

Last year, Yurakucho’s Kotsu Kaikan brought back its rooftop beer garden after a 35-year break,

The folks at Tokyu Plaza Omotesando Harajuku are doing things a little differently from

other Tokyo department stores with beer gardens this summer. Rather than sticking to the allyou-can-drink megabrand beers, they’ll be serving a line-up of craft beers, courtesy of Nagano’s Yo-Ho Brewing (of Yona Yona fame) – and at almost-reasonable prices to boot – all beers are ¥700 per glass. Expect a rotating selection of tipples, plus offbeat beer cocktail concoctions. à Until Sep 4. Mon-Fri 5pm-10pm, Sat, Sun from 12noon. 4-30-3 Jingumae, Shibuya (Meiji-Jingumae, Harajuku stations). tinyurl.com/TOTomohara

Getting Around

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July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

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Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

TRANSCREATING TOKYO

In praise of ‘rabbit hutches’? Takeo Funabiki explains the history behind cramped Japanese homes WHEN VISITING TOKYO , it’s best not to expect being invited to a Japanese home. This isn’t because Japanese people lack a sense of hospitality: it’s due to the fact that Japanese homes are much like personal spas, i.e. private places for rest and relaxation. What’s more, the reason you often hear for why Japanese people rarely invite ‘outsiders’ and throw parties at home is houses in Japan are too cramped for that – people tend to be too embarrassed to let anyone in, unless they’re very close friends. Speaking of which, in the past – even during the Bubble era – it was quipped that ‘although the Japanese are wealthy, their homes are small like rabbit hutches’. But the foreign correspondent who wrote this obviously did so without sufficiently observing reality and investigating the topic. THE LEGACY OF FEUDAL RULE

If we look back at the Edo era, we’ll note that 70 to 80 percent of the Japanese population was based in the countryside, where houses were much larger. Farmers who were relatively well off lived in houses comparable to modern luxury mansions in size. It was only in urban centres like Edo, Kyoto and Osaka where non-samurai commoners had to endure cramped quarters. Well then, can it be said that the majority of Japanese homes became ‘rabbit hutches’ from the Meiji era onwards, when large-scale migration from rural areas to cities picked up speed? As regular readers of this column will know, things are never that simple – so let’s investigate this ‘mystery’ in detail. Taking the example of Edo-Tokyo, the seat of government and a city created as the result of a gigantic and lengthy public planning project undertaken by the Tokugawa shoguns, we note that the samurai played a central role in our story. Roughly 300 daimyo lords and their high-ranking retainers built a number of vast estates in central Edo and its surroundings, with the remaining land then parcelled out for commercial use and townspeople’s dwellings. After the Meiji Restoration of 1868, many of these estates were passed on to bigwigs from the Satsuma and Choshu domains (who had led the rebellion against the shoguns) and other former feudal lords turned aristocrats. Others were taken over by the government, to be used for public facilities, military training grounds and universities. Even now in central Tokyo, most large universities, hospitals and government offices built on high ground stand on land once covered by a feudal lord’s quarters.

PRIVATE LIVES, PUBLIC SPACE

What needs to be explored next is that despite the lack of space, the homes of common people in Japan’s urban areas certainly shouldn’t be thought of as rabbit hutches. The key to the mystery lies in the Edo era conception of common space. Every resident’s home was a piece in the city’s puzzle, so even if a family’s personal space in a tenement was limited to one roughly 11m2 room and a tiny kitchen, that space served both as a bedroom at night (mattresses were laid out on the floor) and a living room during the day, essentially making the family dwelling twice as spacious as the numbers suggest. Moreover, since a public water supply or well was always found outside, along with shared toilets and a public bath house, one such room was adequate for a family. Tracking back to the point of Edo homes being part of the capital’s overall puzzle, we can argue that not only was the material infrastructure of the city well-developed; facilities catering to residents’ spiritual needs were also numerous. Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples welcomed people for both

private prayer and public fairs and festivals. Entertainment options ranged from hanami parties during cherry blossom season to theatre plays, other artistic performances and sumo for those with a little money to spare. When the people of Edo needed a break from home-cooked meals or from drinking in front of their families, they could choose from a plentiful selection of eateries and bars, ranging from the dirt-cheap to the very high-end, and if some extra-marital action was in order, there was always the red-light district of Yoshiwara.

THE WEIGHT OF TRADITION IN MODERN TOKYO

All this is not to say that Edo was perfect from the time of its founding: making the most of the city was only possible for the moneyed few. What I want to get across is that although Edo commoners’ homes may have looked like rabbit hutches, they more than served their purpose as residences within the context of the city’s overall urban system. This applies to contemporary Japan as well, as the notion that ‘a small home doesn’t prevent one from living large in the city’ is certainly familiar to many modern-day Tokyoites. July – September, 2016 Time Out Tokyo

You’re sharing a beach with a fullyclothed sunbather

You know you’re in Tokyo when…

THE OBASAN VAMPIRE – Not everyone likes the sun. But that’s not going to stop the obasans [aunties] of Japan from setting foot on the sand. Sunscreen might be enough protection from solar rays for most people, but only an outfit that completely covers every inch of skin is enough for these beachgoers. And of course that’s in addition to sunglasses, thick gloves, a parasol, and a head visor that resembles something you’d expect to find sitting next to a welding torch.

THE PERFECT GYARU – Many believed

that Gyarus – the spray tanned, neon clad, teenage girls who used to hang out on Shibuya’s streets – were a thing of the past. Since their nineties peak the numbers of gyarus in town has waned. But every summer they emerge to occupy Tokyo’s beaches. For a month the world is once again awash with orangehued girls wearing garish candy colours and unfathomably high platform shoes and then–poof – they are gone, leaving you to wonder if it was all a summer mirage.

By Benjamin Boas

SUMMER IS FINALLY HERE in Tokyo and that can only mean one thing – it’s time to ditch the city and head for the beach! Whether your calling is the sands of Kujukuri Hama or the waves of Enoshima, the shore is the place to be. To help you get your bearings, let us give you the lowdown on the local types of human wildlife you’re sure to find as you pursue the perfect suntan.

BEACH HUT OJISAN – Of all the things you were prepared to do when you came to the beach, taking off your shoes to enter a house was probably not one of them. But not following Mr Beach Hut’s rules means no access to the hut. And that means no access to the many wondrous types of equipment found within. Nice showers, lockers, and home comforts that will put your permanent abode to shame await you under the watchful gaze of the most tanned man you will ever see in your life. DIVE-BOMBING BIRDS OF DEATH – Okay, so these aren’t human. But if

you’re a human and you’re heading to the surf you will want to know what these things are. So you can stay the hell away from them. The seagulls at the beach of your home country can’t hold a candle to these bloodthirsty avian emissaries of doom that have the potential to ruin the day (and eye) of any unsuspecting beach-goer that happens to get in their line of fire.

MILITARY MUSCLE MAN –

He’s big. He’s strong. He’s got some very macho tattoos. And he just wants some time to relax after a stressful week of getting yelled at by his superiors. The day you see him is a rare one when he doesn’t have to get up at 0500 hours, and he’s determined to make the most of his valuable R&R time. You’re probably best to respect that.

THE OVER-PREPARED AND YET UNDERFULFILLED FAMILY – You thought you’d be OK

with just a towel and a bottle of suntan lotion, but this particular type of family knows better. In addition to the usual assortment of beach floats, snacks, and changes of clothes they’ve also brought along a modular tent complete with kitchenette and sleeping space for ten. The only downside is that, after folding everything out, unwrapping every food item, and finally getting the portable BBQ to start, it’s time to go home.

Available across Tokyo from October

Best bars and restaurants

Your ultimate guide to eating and drinking in the gourmet capital of the world. Time Out Tokyo July – September, 2016

ILLUSTRATIONS: KENTO IIDA

In the next issue of Time Out Tokyo…

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