Issue 4: Tokyo Style Guide by Time Out Tokyo

INSIDE! Autumn days out Hiking, onsen and food fests Be an art collector Even on a budget PDA in Japan Is it still a faux pas?

OCT - DEC 2014 NO.4 TIMEOUT.COM/TOKYO

Keep up with the trends at our pick of 100 best shops

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In this issue

www.timeout.com/tokyo

October – December November 20132014 – January 2014

Hello Tokyo… You don’t know of Out retailTokyo therapy until Welcome to thethe firstmeaning ever Time magazine. you’ve shopped in Tokyo. to prepare for this You’ll have noticed we’reAnd kicking thingsyou off with ultimate high, we’ve up, oh, just a modestshopper’s little claim: that thisrustled city outshines any 100 the city’s most lust-inducing stores in one otherofmetropolis on the planet – and it’s not only great 16-page guide.fireworks Aside from 13 brandbecause of thestyle nonstop (although we do spanking new shops, we’ve covered range like fireworks). Turn to p24 also and we’ll giveayou 49 of well-known and underground spots to satisfy other incontestable reasons. And in the rest of the vintage hounds, dreamers, paper sniffers magazine you’ll decor find hundreds more: from proofand vinyl fiends. If you’re just in greatest the market for holiday that the world will see the Games ever in souvenirs, straight p36.quintessential Need a break from 2020 (p10)head to our tips onfor such browsing? Try one ofas our top five ‘third wave’ coffee Tokyo experiences Golden-gai (p68) – and from shops (p40) or see if style you agree with beer the capital’s music, and art toour the‘Craft savviest taste test’ (p42). Need a real break? Then we have city cats you’ll ever meet (p82). Tokyo is beyond just one more for you: onsenthe (p66). compare. Useword this mag to make most of it.

On top of the world… 100 shops Withbest the bid in the bag, Whether or notmoment… you this is Tokyo’s want to look a in the Discover whylike you’re manga we’ve p24 best citylady, on earth, got you covered, p22

Inside

OLYMPICS: GETTY IMAGES ILLUSTRATION: MEBAE; SUSHI: KEISUKE TANIGAWA; OKUTAMA VALLEY: 3X/PIXTA; ONSEN: MIHAI-BOGDAN LAZAR/SHUTTERSTOCK

06 06 Tokyo TokyoUpdate Update City City news, news, city city views views 12 13 Tokyo TokyoDiary Diary Essential Essential events events 15 21 Courtesy Courtesycalls calls How tofor deal with Tokyo PDA in Japan beginners 18 23 Tokyo-Ga Road to The light and dark recovery of Mttown’s Fuji postOne 22 100 bestcomeback shops tsunami 24 Keep upbest with the Tokyo: city city’s in thelightningworld speed Need atrends reason? 38 Eating & you 50! We’ll give Drinking

44 40 Shopping They shoot&Tokyo Style One amazing city, 46 Art Culture 100& photographers 52 44 Music Eating & 56 Nightlife Drinking 58 & Fitness 52 Sports Shopping & 60 LGBT Style 62 60 Film LGBT 64 & Hotels 62 Travel Art & Culture 68 66 Getting Music Around 72 68 Fukushima Nightlife update 71 Film 73 of 72 Mysteries Travel & Hotels 76 the kimono Getting Around 74 82 You Catsknow you’re in Tokyo when…

Thebest best sushi The restaurants nightlife Lose We’ve picked yourself in lasers five with–anarrowed round-updown of the from 5,000! best clubs in p38 town, p70

hair The best insider salons Updatea tips Discover your look Tokyo youwith didn’t Tokyo’s top (foreignerknow existed. Our guide friendly) stylists, p44 to Golden-gai, p68

hiking The best in Celebrate music the Japanese new ‘mountain From Perfume to holiday’ on these trails, Aragehonji: find out who p64 is rocking our world, p66

The The best best onsen new It’s the perfect restaurants time tonew planfood Which a healing places to hot-spring try in 2014? getaway, We’ll tell p66 you! p48

J O I N T H E C O N V E R S AATT I O N O N FFAA C E B O O K , T W I T T E RR AANNDD TTHHEE TTOOKKYYOOIITTEE BBLLOOGG facebook.com/TimeOutTokyo

@TimeOutTokyo

blogs.timeout.jp/en

Editor International ContentContent International Managing Cover Editors Editorial Assistants Ili Saarinen Chief Content Producer International Director Cover Editors Reiko Kuwabara Editorial Assistants Staff Photographers Content Director Becky Lucas DirectorDirector DirectorDavid Woodley Photography by STEVE NAKAMURA Jun Igarashi Eri Ito Rebecca Morice Atsushi Tonosaki ART DIRECTION Jun Igarashi Masako Matsuzaki reiko@timeout.jp Masako Matsuzaki Keisuke Tanigawa Commercial & Sub Editor Tayna Jackson MarcusMarcus Webb Webb David Woodley Taishi HirokawaMEBAE Hidetaka Furuya Staff Photographers Content Director CEO Tim Arthur ILLUSTRATION jun@timeout.jp Ryoko Baba Keisuke Tanigawa Yasuhisa Shimbo Kisa Toyoshima Marketing Writer Flo Wales Bonner International Editor Chief Technical Officer Misaki Kawaguchi Commercial & Head of Global Content Chairman-Founder CLOTHING DESIGN MIKIO SAKABE Tokyo Annemarie Luck Kunihiro Miki Marketing Takuroh Toyama Akiko Toya Contributing Editor Chris Bourn David Cook Ryo Harada ryokobaba@timeout.jp Kenta Hoshino Chris Bourn Tony Elliott PHOTOGRAPHY Isao Sato annemarieluck@ Yukako Izumi Kisa Toyoshima Joyce Lam Akiko Toya Hikari Ichikawa Time Out Digital President/Publisher James International Director Group Marketing Director Ryo Koshirakawa GlobalArt Editor Time Out Tokyo Inc. TimeHadfield Out Digital Designers Patrick AnthonyEllen Huggins Carolyn Sims timeout.jp Yasuhisa Shimbo izumi@timeout.jp Mari Hiratsuka Manabu Morooka Hiroyuki Fushitani Universal House, 5-9-9-101 Hiroo, Takuroh Toyama President/Publisher Hardy 5-9-9-101 Hiroo,Shibuya, Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0012 Universal House, Tom Court Havell Production CEO Tim Arthur 251 Tottenham Court Road, London, McNamee, Production Assistants Designer Kosuke Shimizu Sales Assistants Chairman www.timeout.jp Yuka Yamazaki Sales Assistants Hiroyuki Fushitani International Art Director +81 (0)3 5792 5721 251 Tottenham Road, London, Researcher Dave Chairman-Founder Ili Saarinen Yu Miyakoshi Yuki Masuko Daiki MasudaAisté Riabovaité Hiroshi Hasegawa Picture Advertising and general enquiries: Chairman Daiki Masuda W1T 7AB www.timeout.com, Anthony Huggins www.timeout.jp W1T 7AB www.timeout.com, Katie Mulhern--Bhudia, Isidora O’Neill Faulkner, Adam Lee Davies Tony Elliott ilisaarinen@timeout.jp Ryo Harada Hiroshi Hasegawa Momo Ando +44 (0)20 7813 3000 info@timeout.jp Annemarie Luck Ikuko Hirahara International Managing Advertising and general enquiries: info@timeout.jp +44 (0)20 7813 3000

App a vailab for fre le throu e g iTune h the s stor e.

Foryour yourfull, full, up-to-the-minute up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 5 For

Tokyo update

CITY FAQ

What’s the deal with ‘dappo habu’? Japan’s quasi-legal drugs get smoked out

WHAT YOU SAID

We asked your thoughts on dappo habu and whether you’ve tried it for yourself. Here’s what you told us:

‘It’s a bad high, leaving you feeling stupid and anxious.’ ‘Personal responsibility is the key. To use it in public setting is irresponsible.’

and the National Police Agency asked the public to send in proposals for a new name for the drugs. From 8,000 suggestions, they chose ‘kiken’ (dangerous), a term they hope will deter people from taking them lightly. Nothing like a bit of crowd-sourcing to rebrand the country’s drugs, huh? To find out your thoughts on the matter, we did a bit of crowd-sourcing of our own with a quick survey on our blog. The results are in and 62.5 percent of respondents said they’d tried the drug, although mostly they found it ‘too chemical’. Another 62.5 percent said they felt the drugs should be made illegal, although most qualified their ‘yes’ with comments like, ‘As long as marijuana is illegal.’ More of your comments in the column opposite.

For full city listings, go to www.timeout.com/tokyo

‘It’s like a shorter, more intense version of weed, gram for gram.’ ‘Making drugs illegal only creates a black market. If weed was legal we wouldn’t be having this discussion and more education could take place about the consequences of using the drug.’ ‘The punishment of using the drug is worse for the user than actually using the drug.’

TOKYO LOVES…

‘It tasted fake with too much chemical effect.’ ‘Drug use is a health problem, not a crime problem.’ Sumo sake Packing both a cultural and alcoholic punch, the Ippin Sumo nihonshu (sake) set includes five ‘cups’ of the strong stuff (use the cups as storage jars once emptied?). ¥2,945 from Ryogoku Kokugikan, tinyurl.com/ TOTsumo.

Dawg style This being our ‘style issue’, we had to give a shout out to the groomed and fashion-conscious canines of Tokyo. This little guy was spotted one Sunday afternoon next to Nakameguro River. We do like his purple peepers.

6 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Worldly beer Heineken’s new Cities of the World campaign inspires you to unlock the secrets of your city. Begin by cracking open one of these limited-edition bottles representing New York, London, Amsterdam, Berlin, Rio de Janeiro and Tokyo. www.heineken.com/jp.

‘In my experience, these substances vary greatly in potency and effects – from unnoticeable to awesomely euphoric to debilitatingly trippy.’

DAPPO HABU: ELDAD CARIN/SHUTTERSTOCK; SUMO SAKE: KEISUKE TANIGAWA; DAWG STYLE: ANNEMARIE LUCK

rugs are no laughing matter. But we have to laugh, just a little, at the fact that, even in law-abiding Japan, there is such a thing as a ‘law-evading drug’. Dappo habu are made up of ‘herbs’ spiked with chemicals and, when smoked, they cause hallucination and intoxication. In 2012, it was reported that police knew of nearly 80 stores around Tokyo selling these quasi-legal drugs. So far, they have escaped being classed as illegal because they get sold as ‘herbal incense’. And because, every time the government attempts to restrict their production and sale by listing the chemicals used as ‘designated drugs’ under the Pharmaceutical Affairs Law, a new chemical emerges. In July, after a spate of traffic accidents were blamed on DUI, the health ministry

‘They should illegalise the fake herbs and legalise the real stuff. The fake stuff can have anything in it.’

STYLE APPS Give ‘Candy Crush’ a break and go shopping instead

TRENDY JAPAN The app Tokyo Fashion What’s it for? Browsing Tokyo’s street style and keeping up to date on the capital’s fashion news and events. How does it work? Along with daily street snaps (which you can browse by brand), the app provides real-time updates on new store openings, fashion events and interviews via social media. Get it tokyofashion.com/app. Free from the App store and Google Play.

Where in Tokyo is this? Every issue we’ll show you a picture of a Tokyo location that you may or may not recognise. We’ll reveal where this photo was taken in our Photo of the Day series at www.timeout.com/tokyo. This photo’s clue: Sometimes in the city, it pays to look up towards the sky. Especially when walking past this building that’s just near one of the prettiest neighbourhood parks in Tokyo with its tall trees, fishing pond and statue of Prince Taruhito Shinno Arisugawa on horseback.

WHERE IN TOKYO IS THIS?: JOYCE LAM; SAILOR MOON: ©NAOKO TAKEUCHI/PNP/KODANSHA/TOEI ANIMATION

Reinventing ‘Sailor Moon’ It’s the birthday that keeps on giving. Back in 2012, the globally successful ’90s anime and comic series ‘Pretty Guardian Sailor Moon’ celebrated its 20th anniversary, but here we are, two years later, and the gifts are still coming. Aside from a ridiculous amount of merchandise being released, the launch that has fans in a stir is the reboot of the series, titled ‘Pretty Guardian Sailor Moon Crystal’. It premiered in July and you can watch it for free on sites like www.hulu.com and ch.nicovideo. jp. More info here: sailormoon-official. com/animation/en/.

Pizza-making cats

Just when you thought cats on the Net had had their day, Japan launches Pizza Cat*. This new pizzeria is run by a group of lazy, hairy eyeballing cats named Tencho, Hime, Dora and Detch. You can watch them at ‘work’ – taking orders on the phone, dealing with spreadsheets, cleaning, making deliveries – in a series of short video clips at pizzacat.pzh.jp. Ready to order? Just don’t complain if you find a furball in your cheese – they’re not very good at their jobs. *In case you’re wondering, Pizza Cat is fictional and part of an advertising campaign by Pizza Hut. You weren’t really going to order, were you?

STYLE STALKER The app ASAP54 What’s it for? If you’re tired of asking the question, ‘Where’d you get that shirt?’ How does it work? Think of it as Shazam for clothes. You take a photo of an article of clothing you see on the street (or anywhere, really) and the app helps you find it (or something similar) from more than 150 stores like Topshop and J.Crew. Get it www.asap54.com. Free from the App store. ONE FOR THE GENTLEMEN The app Cool Guy What’s it for? Men who hate shopping but still want to look stylish. How does it work? Cool Guy allows guys to browse and shop online but it also serves as a virtual wardrobe – upload photos of your clothes and then mix these with the items you want to buy to see how they work together, or browse your own clothes by category. It also helps you pack your suitcase efficiently and provides current news and tips from blogs and magazines. Get it www.stylishandcool.com/ coolguy.html. Free from the App store and Google Play.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 7

Local legends #4

Kanji cheat sheet

The bright young thing

If you love the look of Japanese text but just can’t get around to memorising those thousands of kanji characters, now you can cheat with Malwin Béla Hürkey’s Nihon typeface. The German graphic designer launched his ‘ornamental Japonism typefamily’ in September, describing it as building the bridge between Eastern and Western typography by allowing you to write and read in Latin letters that have a ‘Japanese appearance’. It might be tricky to read at first, but once you get the hang of it, it’s just like reading in code. Tweet us if you can read the word pictured here. (We’ll reveal the answer in an upcoming blog.) nihonfont.com/shop.

he was only 12 years old when she was discovered on the streets of Harajuku by one of the editors of Japanese fashion site Drop Tokyo. Soon afterwards she was invited to sit in the front row at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo A/W 14/15. Mappy is the tween fashion blogger (now 13) and Instagram street-style star (she has more than 27,000 followers) who’s taking the Japanese fashion industry by storm and beginning to make her mark overseas too, having already been featured in ‘Teen Vogue’ (US). With her trademark bob, red lips and outlandish styling, Mappy has a cool factor that belies her age. Still, she’s bubbly and curious as we talk about her favourite brands. ‘Comme des Garçons, Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier,’ she lists. ‘But since I can’t afford to buy them, I shop at vintage stores and look for cheap fashion thrills. The platform shoes I’m wearing today are from Tokyo Bopper, which I bought with my savings, but this rucksack only cost ¥40.’

She has naturally garnered comparisons to Tavi Gevinson, the American editor of ‘Rookie’ who also shot to fame as a 12-year-old blogger. But Mappy prefers to distinguish herself. ‘As much as I love fashion, I also love to play the piano. My dream is to study music in New York and eventually become an international jazz pianist. That’s why I need to study more English.’ When asked about the Tokyo fashion scene, she says: ‘We’re experiencing a ’60s revival this season, which I love, but at the same time it makes me feel like we’re relying too much on the past. Also, with the fashion chains making the latest catwalk trends more accessible, I feel like people are starting to dress the same as each other. Nowadays, people don’t want to stand out and dress differently, which is a shame. In an ideal world, it would be more fun and exciting if people felt the freedom to dress in whatever clothes they want.’ To check out Mappy in all her stylishness, visit mappy. droptokyo.com/blogs/ and instagram.com/bopmappy.

8 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Tokyo’s streets are not particularly in need of extra cleaning, but one man has made it his mission to ensure things stay that way. At least, in the area of Nihonbashi. ‘Mangetsu Man’ began his litter sweeping in October 2013 and now spends four or five hours a day cleaning, posing for photos and generally adding a bit of cheer to the business district. If not, why not, we say. mangetsu-man.com.

MAPPY: MANABU MOROOKA; MANGETSU MAN: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Super ‘Street Cleaner’ Man

Face masks: not just for sick days

SECRET CITY Attractions off the beaten track

Mask and iPad The doubleantisocial technique

Living in Asia, you get used to seeing medical masks worn as casually as scarves. People are so considerate, you think, for not passing on their germs. But while this is usually true, new research shows that up to 41.2 percent of girls under 20 in Japan are wearing masks for reasons other than hygiene. In this context, these masks are called ‘date’ (pronounced da-té) and the trend is being blamed on everything from social media to anxiety disorders. Here are the top three reasons for the increasing ‘mask fashion’…

For fat and ugly days It takes work to achieve that creamy complexion and rosy cheeks look. If you’re tired of repeating the longwinded daily make-up ritual, here’s the simple solution: put a mask over it. Apparently it also makes your face appear slimmer.

When you can’t take any more small talk If you’re shy and conservative or just can’t be bothered with the annoying chitchat that goes on in social situations, you can make life a lot easier by just covering up your mouth. No expectations that way, see?

It’s fashion, duh Don’t question it, just know that you’re at the height of trendiness when you don a checkered, polka-dot, striped or any kind of designer mask, like this B.M The Black Mask by Jiggys Shop (www.jiggys-shop. jp) which gets its colour from added charcoal fibres (available on Amazon or Rakuten).

WILD

Since adding ‘mountain day’ to the list, Japan now has the most public holidays in the world (along with India), giving us 16 precious days off every year. We decided to celebrate with a round-up of the most random public holidays out there.

New Year’s Day

WEIRD

St Patrick’s Day Ireland

RANDOM

FACE MASK: PETRI ARTTURI ASIKAINEN/GETTY; BLACK MASK: KEISUKE TANIGAWA; GOTOKUJI: GIANTRABBIT/SHUTTERSTOCK; REVERSIBLE DESTINY LOFTS MITAKA: JEREMY SUTTON-HIBBERT; HAMAMATSUCHO STATION: MONO01PARK/PIXTA

Stats Life Public holidays… the weird & the wonderful

Family & Community Day Australia

Driving Side Switch Day Samoa

Cameroon Sheep Festival Africa

Health and Sports Day Japan

Turkmen Melon Day Turkmenistan

National Rebelliousness Day Ireland

Royal Wedding United Kingdom

International Nurse Day China

Procession of the Cows All Souls’ Day Kathmandu Valley

Gotokuji ‘Cat temple’ is thought to be the origin of maneki neko, Japan’s famous ‘beckoning cat’ that serves as a symbol of good luck. Gotokuji may seem ordinary at first glance – until you see the army of cat figurines sitting in the corner next to the temple. These figurines are sold at the administration building and customarily returned to the shelf after wishes are granted. See how many hidden feline motifs you can spot across the site. 2-24-7 Gotokuji, Setagaya. Reversible Destiny Lofts Mitaka – In Memory of Helen Keller Built by architects/artists Shusaku Arakawa and Madeline Gins in 2005, this residential building was created with the aim of helping people achieve longevity. Called the ‘ultrachromatic undying house’ by novelist Setouchi Jakuchou, the building features nine units and 14 different colours. Inspired by Helen Keller, it includes features designed for individuals with different physical abilities, so, for example, some of spaces work better for tots than adults. Some units are available for shortand long-term stays, as well as tours. 2-2-8 Osawa, Mitaka. 0422 26 4966. www.rdloftsmitaka.com/english. Hamamatsucho Station No need to travel to Brussels to catch a glimpse of Manneken Pis (the bronze statue of a little peeing boy) – you can see him at Hamamatsucho Station. Placed on platform 3 and 4, the statue has been entertaining commuters with his ever-changing outfits for nearly 30 years. Designed by local volunteer group Ajisai, the clothes take inspiration from seasons and various themed events.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 9

Where shopping meets fiction We compare Tokyo, London and New York’s shopping habits and haunts, with a little nostalgia thrown in with our favourite movies filmed here

TOKYO

LONDON

NEW YORK

Average spent per person in Tokyo per year

Average spent per person in London in a year

Average spent per person in New York per year

¥807,490 ¥912,992 ¥955,830 Kill Bill

The number of minutes it takes to walk to this shopping street from Shinjuku Station. Yasukuni-dori is lined with shops and entertainment venues lit up with neon signs, and is where The Bride trailed O-Ren Ishii on her motorcycle in ‘Kill Bill’.

210,000 Shibuya

Lost in Translation, Babel, Fast and Furious: Tokyo Drift, Resident Evil The population of this hugely popular shopping district that boasts the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing, through which Sean in ‘Tokyo Drift’ has to skilfully manoeuvre his car at top speed in one race scene.

1881 Wako

Godzilla

The year this prestigious six-floor department store was founded by Kintaro Hattori. In the 1954 version of ‘Godzilla’, the monster rips off the store’s wall clock during his night-time rampage.

Takashimaya Nihonbashi

300,000 Harrods

James Bond, The Living Daylights The number of customers, during peak days, that visit this 90,000m² store. The outside façade gets lit up by a whopping 12,000 lightbulbs.

154

The number of tourists who visit and explore this famous shopping district every year, which is wellknown for the Coca-Cola sign that’s been on display here since 1954.

100

million

Yasukuni-dori

Piccadilly Circus

V for Vendetta, Sherlock Holmes (TV series), Bridget Jones’s Diary

Portobello Road Market

Notting Hill

The number of years the world’s largest antiques market has been going. It was at the heart of ‘Notting Hill’ and also featured in the 2013 film ‘About Time’ as the flat shared by Tim and Mary was located nearby.

The Grudge The founding year of this store, which later developed as one of the largest department-store chains. You can still see evidence of its Showaperiod origins in both its interior and exterior design.

1831

Ebisu Garden Place

Hana Yori Dango

The number of years since it opened. Built on the former site of a beer brewery, Ebisu Garden Place houses a shopping arcade, museums and a large number of boutique stores. It’s served as the location for many Japanese TV dramas. In the hugely popular 2005 series ‘Hana Yori Dango’, Domyouji waits for hours in the rain for his first date with Makino.

Whiteleys Bayswater

Love Actually

The number of fashion stores inside the centre. You might recognise its white marble and fountains from the opening scenes of ‘Love Actually’. It’s also where Julia Roberts held her photographic exhibition in Mike Nichols’ film ‘Closer’.

300,000 Times Square

Vanilla Sky, Transformers, Spider-man, King Kong

The average number of people passing through Times Square daily. On New Year’s Eve close to one million people celebrate the Dropping of the Ball here. It costs between $1.1 million and $4 million a year to advertise on the neon billboards that light up the square. Barneys

Confessions of a Shopaholic, Sex and the City The number of years this mecca has been pleasing fashionistas. In ‘Confessions of a Shopaholic’, fashion editor Alette takes Rebecca to shop for her TV appearance here.

Bloomingdale’s

Manhattan

Saks Fifth Avenue

The Women, Shall We Dance, Friends

The number of Saks locations. In the movie ‘Shall We Dance’, John’s wife Bev works at Saks, and in the final scenes John arrives unexpectedly with a red rose in his mouth and asks her to dance.

1872

The year the Bloomingdale brothers opened their first store in New York City and started selling hoop skirts, which was the craze of the 19th century. In Woody Allen’s 1979 film ‘Manhattan’, adulterous couple Mary and Yale meet furtively at the perfume counter.

100,000 289

Tiffany & Co.

Selfridges

Mr Selfridge The general number of pairs of women’s shoes stocked at any time. It was opened more than 100 years ago by the American entrepreneur Harry Gordon Selfridge.

10 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Sleepless in Seattle, Breakfast at Tiffany’s, Diamonds Are Forever The number of Tiffany jewellery stores worldwide. In the James Bond movie, ‘Diamonds Are Forever’, the character Tiffany Case was named after the store, where she was born unexpectedly while her parents were choosing wedding rings.

Beams for life In 1976, Beams opened its first 10m2 retail store in Harajuku. As one of the first stores to curate a collection of different brands from around the world, Beams pioneered the concept store trend, commonly known as ‘select shop’ in Japan. They first focused on just casualwear, importing specially selected ranges from the US, but have since expanded into mens-, womens-, kids- and maternitywear, as well as lifestyle products and even music.

Operating about 140 shops across Japan as well as flagship stores in cities including Taipei, Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong, Beams is now one of the leading forces in Japan’s fashion industry, offering an eclectic range of styles from both its inhouse brands as well as designer imports. As such, the brand has built a reputation for delivering a global view through unique curation. And, as a shopper, what could make you happier than knowing you’ve got the most well-rounded, globally relevant wardrobe out there? As the Beams slogan says, they’re the ‘happy life solution company’.

The social side Keep up to date with the latest trends and events happening in store by connecting with Beams on social media: BEAMS.co.jp

www.facebook.com/BEAMS.co.jp @BEAMS_JP

twitter.com/BEAMS_JP BEAMS STYLE

www.flickr.com/photos/beamsstyle

beams_official

instagram.com/beams_official BEAMSBROADCAST

www.youtube.com/user/ BEAMSBROADCAST For more brand and shop info go to

www.beams.co.jp

(also available in English)

Tokyo Diary

Skinny Lister More rowdy than they look

What’s on in town October – December 2014 Make the most of the city with our editor’s picks of the best things to do over the next three months

October MUSIC SKINNY LISTER This UK-based five-piece act first mesmerised Japanese fans at last year’s Fuji Rock. If you like up-tempo, rowdy folk punk in the Dropkick Murphys and Flogging Molly style, Skinny Lister should be just the band for you. Oct 8 Shibuya Club Quattro, 32-13 Udagawacho, Shibuya. tinyurl. com/TOTskinnylister. Advance ¥6,000. MUSIC ASAGIRI JAM With a laid-back vibe and gorgeous views of Mt Fuji, this is one of the nicest music festivals around. Evening campfires and stalls selling locally produced goodies complete the experience. Oct 11-12 Asagiri Arena, Fujinomiya, Shizuoka. tinyurl.com/TOTasagiri. Twoday pass ¥15,000.

AROUND TOWN KICHIJOJI HARMONICA YOKOCHO MORNING MARKET Find unique home goodies, fresh vegetables and cakes, then get your fortune told (probably not in fluent English, though). It’s worth going just for the walk through the retro Showa alleyways. Every 3rd Sunday. Kichijojihoncho, Musashino. tinyurl.com/ TOTharmonica. AROUND TOWN SHIBUKARU FESTIVAL More than a hundred up-and-coming female creatives gather every year at the Shibukaru Festival, which

12 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

has served as a hub of activity for local artists since 2011. This year’s theme is ‘Encounters and Experience’, and the aim is for visitors and artists to connect and experience new forms of expression. Oct 17-26 Shibuya Parco, 15-1 Udagawacho, Shibuya (and other venues). tinyurl.com/TOTshibukaru. Free. Jazzing up Shibuya

MUSIC SHIBUYA MUSIC FESTIVAL From the station to 109 and up to Dogenzaka, and Bunkamura-dori, the streets of Shibuya will echo with music including classical, jazz, pop and traditional Japanese drumming. Oct 18-19 Area around Shibuya Station. tinyurl.com/ TOTShibuyaMusic. Free, except for events at Shibuya Kokaido.

MUSIC LOUD PARK 14 Japan’s top metal festival returns for two days of headbanging, headlined by cult giants Manowar and prog juggernaut Dream Theater. Power metal technicians DragonForce, Dutch symphonic group Within Temptation and German thrashers Kreator will be providing capable support. Oct 18-19 Saitama Super Arena, 8 Shintoshin, Chuo, Saitama. tinyurl. com/TOTLoudPark. One-day tickets from ¥14,500, two-day passes from ¥26,000.

November ART YOKOHAMA PARATRIENNALE This international art show brings together artists with disabilities and professionals from many field to create new art forms. Main exhibits will be removed on Oct 13. Until Nov 3 Zou-no-Hana Terrace, 1 Kaigan-dori, Naka, Yokohama, Kanagawa. tinyurl.com/TOTyokopara. Free.

MUSIC FATBOY SLIM Norman Cook honours us with his presence for the sixth year in a row, and will this time be joined by EDM overlord Steve Aoki. Chiba’s cavernous Makuhari Messe serves as the venue. Oct 19 Makuhari Messe, 2-1 Nakase, Mihama, Chiba. tinyurl.com/ TOTfatboy. Advance ¥9,800. AROUND TOWN EARTH GARDEN AUTUMN CRAFT FAIR The city’s hippy population stages a takeover of Yoyogi Park with this environmentally-minded fest that sees market vendors selling a range of eco goods and handicrafts, stalls serving up organic food and musicians entertaining the crowds. Oct 25-26 Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizounocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTautumnfair. Free. FILM SITGES FILM FESTIVAL FANTASTIC SELECTION Held in the Catalonian town of Sitges since 1967, this film festival dedicated to fantasy and horror flicks has quietly grown to become one of the top underground movie shows in Europe. A selection of the best movies from this year’s edition will be screened in Tokyo. Oct 25-31 7-8F Cocoti, Human Trust Cinema, 1-23-16 Shibuya. tinyurl. com/TOTsitges. Adults ¥1,500, students ¥1,100, children ¥1,000, seniors ¥1,100.

AROUND TOWN MT TAKAO MAPLE FESTIVAL Various happenings will be taking place around Mt Takao in November, including kokeshi doll demonstrations and sales of masuzake, the curiously boxed sake. Still, the main attraction is the autumn foliage, with maple trees around the area turning fiery red and yellow. Nov 1-30 Area around Mt Takao, Hachioji. tinyurl.com/TOTtakaomaple. Free. AROUND TOWN TOKYO TOWER CHRISTMAS ILLUMINATION The ever-popular Tokyo Tower illumination may not be on a massive scale but it relies on class, the night view and well-designed light displays to draw crowds. Nov 3-Dec 25 4-2-8 Shiba-Koen, Minato. tinyurl.com/TOTtowerlights. Free.

Shop and rock Pick up a bamboo rake at Tori no Ichi (above), then catch Shugo Tokumaru (this pic) and The Sea and Cake (below)

MUSIC CJ RAMONE All of the original Ramones may be dead, but latter-day bassist CJ Ramone continues to fly the flag for one of punk’s most legendary bands. Celebrate the 40th anniversary of the original outfit’s founding with this throwback gig. Nov 4 Shibuya Club Quattro, 32-13 Udagawacho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTramone. Advance ¥5,800. AROUND TOWN TORI NO ICHI This year’s two Tori no Ichi markets at Hanazono Shrine get underway with warm-up festivals on the nights before the main event. There’ll be 60-odd stalls selling decorative kumade (bamboo rakes), plus 200 other vendors hawking food and other festival knickknacks. Nov 9-10 and 21-22 Hanazono Shrine, 5-17-3 Shinjuku. tinyurl.com/ TOTtorinoichi. Free. MUSIC THE SEA AND CAKE & SHUGO TOKUMARU Celebrating 20 years since their self-titled debut album, Chicago indie rock trio The Sea and Cake team up with multi-instrumentalist Shugo Tokumaru for this gig at Ebisu’s Liquidroom. Folk duo jan and naomi will also be joining the show. Nov 12 Liquidroom, 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTseacake. ¥5,500. For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 13

Tokyo Diary

MUSIC RED BULL MUSIC ACADEMY PRESENTS EMAF TOKYO 2014 Taking place as part of this year’s Red Bull Music Academy, the second Japan edition of EMAF has an interesting lineup including British veteran Luke Vibert, digital experimentalist Holly Herndon and Atlanta producer Matthewdavid. Oct 18-19 Liquidroom, 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTEMAF. Advance ¥5,000, same-day ¥6,000, two-day pass ¥9,000.

AROUND TOWN KANDA CURRY GRAND PRIX There are over 300 curry shops in Kanda, and this event brings together more than 20 of them to do battle for the Grand Prix title. Sample the spicy delicacies and vote for your favourite – the winners will be announced on stage at the end of the event. Nov 1-3 Ogawa Square, 3-6 Kanda Ogawacho, Chiyoda. tinyurl.com/ TOTkcurry. Free.

Tokyo Diary

Autumn in Tokyo... Means lots of lightups, including Marunouchi Illumination (this pic), Rikugien Autumn Leaves Lightup (below right), and Chichibu Night Festival (bottom)

AROUND TOWN MARUNOUCHI ILLUMINATION The days may be getting shorter and colder, but even so, Tokyo doesn’t turn dark and desolate. Marunouchi Naka-dori, always one of the most popular Tokyo illumination spots, will be lit up with hundreds of champagnecoloured, low-energy bulbs, making for a display that’s as environmentally friendly as it is stylish. The lightup stays on until midnight during December, providing for some romantic post-dinner date strolls. Nov 13-Feb 15 Marunouchi Nakadori and surroundings. tinyurl.com/ TOTmarulightup. Free. Jingu Gaien Ginkgo Festival

AROUND TOWN SETAGAYA BOROICHI Held twice a year, Setagaya’s venerable flea market has been going for more than 400 years and features around 700 stalls. It’s worth sampling one of the market’s popular daikan mochi rice cakes – the Boroichi’s de facto official food. Dec 15-16 & Jan 15-16 Boroichidori, 1-15 to 1-27 Setagaya, Setagaya. tinyurl.com/TOTboroichi. Free.

AROUND TOWN RIKUGIEN AUTUMN LEAVES LIGHTUP Rikugien’s annual lightup turns the park’s trees red and golden in the autumn night. The view reflects beautifully off the water, creating a magical and unforgettable atmosphere. The park stays open until 9pm for the duration of the event. Nov 20-Dec 7 Rikugien, 6 Honkomagome, Bunkyo. tinyurl. com/TOTrikugien. Adults ¥300, seniors ¥150.

AROUND TOWN HAGOITA-ICHI The New Year custom of playing hanetsuki – a badminton-esque game popular among girls during the Edo era – may have all but died out, but that hasn’t stopped the wooden paddles (hagoita) used in the sport from selling by the bucketload every year at this three-day fair, a hotbed of Edo tradition. Dec 17-19 Sensoji Temple, 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito. tinyurl.com/ TOThagoita. Free.

December

AROUND TOWN JINGU GAIEN GINKGO FESTIVAL This festival begins as autumn turns the surrounding icho (ginkgo) leaves yellow. Adding to the event’s popularity are temporary stalls selling noted products from different regions of Japan. Nov 15-Dec 8 1 Kasumigaokamachi, Shinjuku. tinyurl.com/TOTjinguleaves. Free.

AROUND TOWN ROPPONGI HILLS CHRISTMAS MARKET Back for its eighth edition, this German-style market welcomes you with over-the-top decorations, snow globes and Teutonic classics like sausages and warm glühwein. Nov 29-Dec 25 Roppongi Hills, 6-10 Roppongi, Minato. tinyurl.com/ TOTroppongiXmas. Free. AROUND TOWN CHICHIBU NIGHT FESTIVAL As one of Japan’s ‘big three’ float festivals, this one has been Chichibu’s

14 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

main event in December for 300 years. The festival’s showcase attractions are two elaborately carved floats resplendent with lanterns, which are pulled along and then hoisted up by men in mawashi (loincloths). The climax of the festival is the incredibly popular fireworks display. Dec 2-3 Chichibu Shrine, 1-3 Banbamachi, Chichibu, Saitama. tinyurl.com/TOTchibuchibu. Free.

MUSIC COUNTDOWN JAPAN 14/15 Friends of Japanese rock and pop flock to Makuhari Messe every year for this four-day fest that closes out the domestic music year in style. The beefy lineup always features names both big and small. Dec 28-31 Makuhari Messe, 2-1 Nakase, Mihama, Chiba. tinyurl.com/ TOTcountdown. Three-day passes from ¥25,000, four-day passes ¥31,000. Want more upcoming events? Go online to timeout.com/tokyo

Courtesy calls Etiquette made easy

No 4 How to deal with PDA in Japan You’re not going to be thrown into jail for a public smooch, but you may want to avoid this cultural faux pas anyway. Grace Buchele Mineta explains why. Illustrations by Bunny Bissoux

he first time I tried to kiss my husband, he went in for a hug and awkwardly stroked my head instead. Back then, we had only been dating for a couple of weeks and were living in America. He was a Japanese exchange student and I was the outgoing Texan girl who offered to show him around our college campus because I thought his butt looked cute. It worked. We started dating and moved to Tokyo together one year later. America is a liberal country when it comes to public displays of affection (PDA), so I didn’t understand the Japanese aversion to kissing in public. Japan is a country that typically rewards those who are able to keep their emotions in check, so my husband couldn’t believe I had the nerve to kiss him in the college cafeteria – and I couldn’t believe he patted me on the head like a small child. However, I’ve since learned that if you do not respect your partner’s culture, intercultural relationships are nearly impossible. If you’re having trouble over PDA with your Japanese partner, or if you’re on holiday in Tokyo and wondering just how serious the locals are about this unwritten 30cm rule, here are some tips…

DO UNDERSTAND THE REASONS While some countries have laws against PDA, Japan more or less relies on social shame and disapproving glares to make sure everyone keeps their hands in their own pockets in public. Expats living here sometimes complain that Japanese people are emotionally repressed. However, rather than ethnocentrically judging another because they express their emotions in a different, subtler way, keep in mind that Japan has some significant cultural differences.

DON’T TAKE IT PERSONALLY Your Japanese girlfriend isn’t stopping you from pushing her up against a wall at Shinjuku Station and sticking your tongue down her throat because she doesn’t love you; she’s stopping you because PDA is taboo in her culture. Learn the difference. You might disagree about key cultural issues because you were each raised with differences that manifest in unexpected ways. This does not mean you’re incompatible. DO TALK ABOUT IT You have a large kissing-inspired elephant in the room. Yes, talking about ‘acceptable levels of PDA’ sounds awkward and about as much fun as getting your teeth pulled. But do you know what also sucks? Making your partner feel uncomfortable because you habitually do things they don’t like.

My husband and I had ‘the talk’ after our second month of dating, and again during our third week in Japan (long before we got married). Both times I outlined what I thought was acceptable, he countered with a much lower offer, and we met somewhere in the middle. Quick kisses were okay, but no tongue. Hugs shouldn’t last more than 10 seconds. No kissing in front of his friends, co-workers, or family, but he should kiss me in front of my (nonJapanese) friends and family (in Texas).

DON’T IGNORE THE TABOO IF YOU’RE WESTERNERS Maybe you’re a couple of Europeans on a romantic honeymoon in Tokyo or perhaps you’re an American couple, backpacking through Japan together during a gap year. Your age, gender and country of origin don’t matter, because if you are travelling in Japan, you have to respect the cultural aversion to PDA. Holding hands is okay. In smaller towns, you might get a dirty look if you’re walking with an arm around your partner. Try to avoid snuggling up on a public bench, in queues or at restaurants. And don’t stare lovingly into each other’s eyes when others are around. Keep the butterfly kisses, pecks on the cheek and smooches for behind closed doors. Sorry if this takes the romance out of your honeymoon in Tokyo, but at least you have a world of sex shops and love hotels to make up for it…

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 15

Promotional feature

CEO of Communion, 36

LOCAL INSIGHT

When did you first feel like a Tokyoite? When people asked me to write about it. What is the sound of Tokyo you miss most when you are away? It’s not so much the sounds of Tokyo that I miss, except perhaps the voices of my wife and kids. I miss tastes and sights more. You recently launched a communications agency, Communion. How do you apply your previous experience as a fashion editor and as marketing and communications director of Marc Jacobs to your current role? Communion specialises in services for fashion and luxury brands. My experience in magazines and newspapers enabled me to acquire the mindset of a journalist, which helps enormously when coming up with ways to get journalists to feature our clients. At Marc Jacobs Japan I learned how advertising and customer relations can be integrated with PR to create great results for a brand. I was also fortunate to build relationships with many editors, stylists and celebrities, which I am now able to leverage on behalf of our clients. How do you feel about the Japanese fashion scene? I used to be very passionate about the ‘scene’, but that passion was not reciprocated by the scene itself, and so I have since become rather indifferent to it. Recently, though, I have been impressed by the work of Atsushi Nakashima. What are some of your most memorable fashion moments? I have great memories of meeting Anna Wintour, Marc Jacobs, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander Wang, Paul Smith and other stars of the fashion firmament. But the most memorable encounter was in 2003 in London at the show of Ann-Sofie Back, where I met the woman who would later become my wife. Recommended shops in Tokyo that not many people know of? Sister, Candy, Fake Tokyo, Studious. What are the top three must-have items in your wardrobe? A white shirt, baggy trousers, suspenders. Which NHK World shows do you enjoy? I caught Andrea Pompilio’s ‘Design Talks’ show recently and found it highly informative. It’s very impressive that NHK’s radio programme is presented in 17 different languages – I have some friends who have worked there and all say it is a thrillingly multicultural environment. Survival tips for Tokyo visitors? Consider dressing slightly more formally than you do at home as the Japanese pay particular regard to one’s attire.

IMAGE: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

I,TOKYO Martin Webb

You were 23 when you first came to Tokyo. What made you stay? The considerate and conscientious nature of the Japanese people.

To find out how you can get NHK WORLD TV 24/7 in your country, on

I, GLOBAL Domo NHK mascot

On the loose Just because you’re a furry little character, doesn’t mean you can’t have fun travelling the world. This summer, NHK World’s megastar mascot, Domo, embarked on a world tour, visiting New York, Paris, London and several Asian cities. What can we say, the little critter is in demand! Here’s what he got up to…

25-27 July, London

Big Ben, Big Bus, B ig

Domo

Domo decided to enjoy the city before meeting up with his fans at Hyper Japan, the UK’s largest J-culture event. A big Beatles fan, Domo’s first stop was the famous Abbey Road, before taking a ride on the London Eye. He then popped into a local pub to taste what all the fuss is about with a classic British dish: fish and chips. After that it was time to meet up with his fans at the Earl’s Court venue. Guests at this year’s event included masked ninja Hiroki; Japan’s answer to the Blue Man Group, Siro-A; J-pop duo Yakiniku; and chef Scott Hallsworth of London-based contemporary restaurant Kurobuta. Once fans had met the megastar, they experienced life in the limelight at NHK World’s anime song karaoke contest organised by TV channel’s ‘Imagine-nation’ programme.

11-13 May, New York

NEW YORK: NAGAMITSU ENDO/NHK, PARIS: MARI SHIMMURA/NHK, LONDON: CHIAKI NOZU/NHK

1-6 July, Paris

The romantic city got loved up at Japan Expo with anime songs, cosplay, gaming and all things kawaii. Guests at the world’s largest festival of Japanese pop culture – which attracted 250,000 visitors over five days – included ‘Crazy Taxi’ video game creator Kenji Kanno, ‘Street Fighter’ character designer Daigo Ikeno, and idol group Berryz Kobo x C-ute. But it was the toothy mascot that stole the limelight with his guest appearance at the NHK World booth. Here, Domo exchanged grunts with his fans, while animator Hiro Minegishi of Studio dwarf demonstrated his stop-motion techniques that see the animated character through his many adventures. The karaoke competition at the NHK World booth was a real hit. Domo grunted his way through his favourite tunes, and may have even been spied busting a move in the corner. But it wasn’t all hard work for the furry ambassador – he also found time to visit the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe.

Dinosaur vs mascot

World’s largest jungle gym

First stop for the world’s friendliest ‘monster’ was Japan Day in New York’s Central Park where Domo greeted fans in a mini-studio housed in the NHK World tent complete with green-screen technology. Here, mascot worshippers could interact with Domo and pose for souvenir snapshots with the megastar – even a bunch of burly NYPD police officers got in on the action. The man behind the character, Tsuneo Goda, was on hand to answer questions about his lovable creation. Later on, Domo snuck off to explore Central Park and learn more about the land of the free at the American Museum of Natural History. To ease any fears New Yorkers might have had about a saw-toothed creature on the loose, Domo made a guest appearance on the evening show of the Regional News Network.

20-24 August, Jakarta

On Asian soil again, Domo joined the Gelar Jepang festival at the University of Indonesia. The brown mascot has many fans in Jakarta and was especially popular at this event with many of his admirers queuing up to get a souvenir snapshot with him. Before the event, Domo enjoyed taking in some culture at the Jakarta History Museum in Kota. Afterwards, he put his feet up at a famous café, Batavia, and ended his day with a spot of shopping at one of the largest malls in the capital to buy souvenirs for his friends back home. Watch out for the furry friend as he continues his world tour in other Asian cities!

your TV, computer or mobile device, visit www.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/

Spot Domo

THE LIGHT AND DARK OF MT FUJI

You know her for her famous snow-capped peak. But do you know about her darker side? Here we introduce the work of three photographers, all of whom are part of the TOKYO-GA and ‘Two Mountains’ projects, whose eyes look beyond just the beauty of Japan’s most famous mountain 18 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

n August, a group of photographers gathered in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. They were there to share their work as part of the ‘Two Mountains’ exhibition, a project initiated by the directors of KLPA Events and TOKYO-GA, Steven Lee and Naoko Ohta, respectively. Acknowledging the iconic status of Mt Fuji in Japan and Mt Kinabalu in Sabah, Malaysia, three specially selected photographers from each country were commissioned to photograph personal photostories about these revered peaks. Focusing on the people and communities that live ‘under their shadow’, this cross-cultural project seeks to enlighten and discover the legends, folklore and traditions from each mountain. Here we showcase the images by the three Japanese photographers taking part in the project. With three sets of

pictures that all focus on Mt Fuji, but from entirely different angles, we’re able to imagine the mountain as something far more than just Japan’s revered World Heritage Cultural Site. Mikio Hasui’s ‘Water Mountain’ series, seen above, presents Mt Fuji as central to the life cycle of nature, where everything begins and ends with water. Hajime Kimura’s more abstract photographs let us in on the ancient cult of ‘Fujikou’ with scenes of marching priests and a burning pile of offering. Lastly, at first glance, ‘Jukai’ by Junpei Kato could be seen as simply a series of forest landscapes. But once you realise that the dense wooded area he has captured is notorious for suicides, the images take on a different feeling. Suddenly, Mt Fuji is altogether a darker, more complex place.

The ‘Two Mountains’ photography project began in May 2014 and culminated in the public exhibition in August in Kuala Lumpur. A reciprocal Tokyo exhibition is planned for 2015. For more information, visit tinyurl.com/TOTtwo-mountains. Below is a description of the ‘Water Mountain’ series. Turn the page for ‘Fuji-kou’ and ‘Jukai’. ‘Water Mountain’ by Mikio Hasui ‘Now I have found that Mt Fuji is deeply related to water. However I didn’t notice it before. Needless to say, the water is controlling our lives and every living thing, including even Mt Fuji. The cloud, snow, lakes, rivers and plants, all these things come from water. The revered Mt Fuji is protected by and functions effectively because of the water. The beautiful holy mountain in our minds is the original source of our life force in that it’s a “water mountain”.’

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 19

Time Out + TOKYO-GA

‘Jukai’ by Junpei Kato ‘Aokigahara, also known as the Suicide Forest or Sea of Trees, is a 35km2 forest that lies at the northwest base of Mt Fuji. The forest contains a number of rocky icy caverns, a few of which are popular tourist destinations. Due to the wind-blocking density of the trees and an absence of wildlife, the forest is known for being eerily quiet and has a historic association with demons in Japanese mythology and is a common place for suicides.’

20 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

‘Fuji-kou’ by Hajime Kimura ‘According to some Japanese history books, Mt Fuji has been known as the highest mountain since the 7th century, but as a sacred place, it was too early to be recognised by the common people then. In the 17th century, during the Edo era, there were many folklores about Mt Fuji in eastern Japan. Some worshippers founded a religion called “Fujikou”. This cult grew as a movement and Fuji became a place of pilgrimage for many, increasing in importance up till the beginning of the Meiji era around 1900. Since then the cult has grown smaller and only mountain priests make pilgrimages to Mt Fuji these days. Although this mountain is mainly visited by tourists nowadays, the priests return to pray on special occasions.’

TOKYO-GA is an extensive art project that unites 100 Japanese and international photographers and their individual perception of Tokyo’s grand picture. The purpose of this project is to reflect upon future actions and movements while considering what we have, who we are and what we discover in the process. www.tokyo-ga.org.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 21

22 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

100

BEST SHOPS IN TOKYO Now, we realise you may not actually long to kit yourself out in cosplay and look like a doe-eyed manga lady, but the best thing about shopping in Tokyo is that you can if you want to. Either way, our 16-page style guide has got you covered. Follow the anime trail through our pick of essential boutiques, new shops as well as the best book, music and souvenir stores.

WHO’S THAT GIRL (ON OUR COVER)? The Harajuku girls may not be as ubiquitous as they once were, but the influence of anime and manga on Tokyo style is stronger than ever. Just ask designer Mikio Sakabe, whose subculture-inspired garments have brought him worldwide acclaim. They also serve as inspiration for the cheeky outfit sported by our cover girl, who was created by up-and-coming manga illustrator Mebae (who happens to be one of Takashi Murakami’s prodigies at KaiKai Kiki). The cover concept came together under the creative eye of art director Steve Nakamura, who works on J-pop idol Kyary Pamyu Pamyu’s inventive album covers. ‘I wanted the image to convey the future of Tokyo fashion and the influence of Lolita style as well as technology on the city’s sartorial sense,’ he says. ART DIRECTION STEVE NAKAMURA ILLUSTRATION MEBAE CLOTHING DESIGN MIKIO SAKABE PHOTOGRAPHY ISAO SATO

Compiled by Hidetaka Furuya

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 23

[100 BEST SHOPS IN TOKYO]

DELTA: MANABU MOROOKA

ESSENTIAL BOUTIQUES

DELTA

Located in trendy residential area Yoyogi Uehara, Delta stocks young designersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; labels from Japan and abroad. The store was designed by architect Yuko Nagayama, who is known for her award-winning work on the Louis Vuitton Kyoto Daimaru store. 3-4-3 Nishihara, Shibuya. 03 3485 0933. www.deltaonline.jp.

24 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

[100 BEST SHOPS IN TOKYO]

NEW FASHION

LAILA TOKIO

The futuristic decor, featuring 8,000 tiny pyramids, is just one thing to love about Laila Tokio. Lovers of classic and cutting-edge designer looks will relish in the hard-to-find designers’ archives such as Helmut Lang and Raf Simons. Look out for up-andcoming brand Hirschell, too. 2F, 1-5-11 Shibuya, Shibuya. 03 6427 6325. laila-tokio.com.

EVA FASHION ART

When your store is drawing in even fickle fashion-industry experts, you know you must be doing something right. This boutique, hidden on a side street near Hachiman-dori, stocks a range of vintage items (mostly by Maison), including antiques, revamps, lingerie, out-of-print art books and vintage European posters. It’s strictly womenswear, and carries some heavy-hitting labels such as Chanel, Hermès, YSL and Céline, as well as ’60s and ’70s retro wear. The interior has a modern Parisian charm to it, and manager Seiko Miyazaki switches the main display to a new theme every month to keep things fresh. Just how we like it. 1B Avenue side Daikanyama III, 2-1 Sarugakucho, Shibuya. 03 5489 2488. evavintagetokyo.com.

SUPER A MARKET

Super A Market is one of the leading select stores in Tokyo. Launched by Tomorrowland in 2011, it offers a great selection of high-end fashion and beauty including brands such as Acne Studios, Dries Van Noten, Golden Goose and Isabel Marant. 3-18-9 Minami-Aoyama, Minato. 03 3423 8428. www.superamarket.jp.

GYRE

Aside from housing the first Moma Design Store to open outside of New York City, Gyre shopping centre boasts branches of Chanel, Maison Martin Margiela and Trading Museum Comme des Garçons. We like that they have an eco conscience and that they keep things interesting with everchanging themes and displays. 5-101 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 3498 6990. gyre-omotesando.com.

INTERNATIONAL GALLERY BEAMS

Amongst the diverse collection of Beams stores that line Meiji-dori, the one with the most elegant ambience would have to be International Gallery Beams. With both womensand menswear ranges, this store offers the sophisticated shopper a look at the essence of Beams’ expert fashion selections, from established labels to the work of promising new designers. B1-2F, 3-25-15 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 3470 3948 (men’s), 03 3470 3925 (women’s). www.beams. co.jp.

GARDEN

This is the place to go if you want to check out high-end Japanese fashion brands shaping the current scene. Known for stocking up-andcoming labels, Garden introduces a fresh perspective on Tokyo’s men’s fashion. Look out for brands like Sasquatchfabrix. and Sun Sea. 3F Jinnan Bldg, 1-17-4 Jinnan, Shibuya. 03 3770 5002.

THE CONTEMPORARY FIX

Founded by Yuichi Yoshii, the Contemporary Fix is a premium retailer that focuses on leading Japanese brands including Hyke, Phenomenon, Facetasm and Mr.Gentleman. The store also has a branch in Kyoto. For some after-shopping coffee, head downstairs to the popular delicatessen restaurant Pariya. 2F, 3-1214 Kita-Aoyama, Minato. 03 6418 1460. www. thecontemporaryfix.com.

GRIMOIRE

Step into the surreal world of Grimoire, where chandeliers and decorative ornaments set the scene for a range of classical girly and cutesy vintage dresses. Located near Miyashita Park, Grimoire stocks vintage clothing from Europe and America, feminine accessories, Victorian-style items, original military wear, and accessories designed by the store’s owner Hitomi Nomura. 701 Terusu Jinnan, 1-10-7 Jinnan, Shibuya. 03 3780 6203. grimoire.jp.

ISETAN SHINJUKU

Arguably the trendiest department store in Japan, Isetan Shinjuku is renowned for having its window displays created by leading artists and offers only the finest in food, clothing and homeware. Last year it underwent a massive refurbishment – got to keep up with the times, of course. 3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 3352 1111. www.isetan.co.jp/store/

SHIBUYA 109

This landmark Shibuya store is the domain of the joshikousei – the fashion-obsessed high-school girls who don’t just follow trends but start them. Take a stroll around to see them in action and indulge in some amateur anthropology. 2-29-1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya.03 3477 5111. www. shibuya109.jp/en.

12XU

Authentic and long-lasting casual menswear sourced from abroad, including brands such as Mark McNairy New Amsterdam, Norse Projects, B Store and Saturdays Surf NYC. Its sister store, Delta, is just on the opposite side of Yoyogi Uehara Station. 1-3316 Uehara, Shibuya. 03 6804 7130. 12xu.tv.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 25

[100 BEST SHOPS IN TOKYO]

ADAM ET ROPE’ WILD LIFE TAILOR MARUNOUCHI

TOGA HARAJUKU

Reminiscent of the kind of oldschool haberdashery you might have visited when you were a kid, this concept store created by Adam et Rope’ caters for the well-dressed gentleman, selling traditional tailored suits as well as on-trend casualwear. 2-2-3 Marunouchi Naka-dori Bldg, Marunouchi, Chiyoda. 03 5220 5600. wildlifetailor.adametrope.com.

‘Elle’ calls Toga ‘Katy Perry’s go-to Japanese label’, and it’s not hard to understand why the brand created by Yasuko Furuta has been turning heads both at home and abroad. Toga presents sophisticated yet avant-garde garments and accessories for men and women and has shown at Paris and London fashion weeks. 6-31-10 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 6419 8136. www.toga.jp.

XANADU TOKYO

CANDY

Marking its 5th anniversay this year, Xanadu Tokyo is one of the few independent stores that actively supports young, relatively unknown Japanese labels such as Roggykei and Nyte. It’s full of neo-futuristic brands and definitely worth a visit if you’re looking for something different. 4F Plaza F4, 3-34-7 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 6459 2826. xanadutokyo.jp.

HANKYU MEN’S TOKYO

Fancy yourself a jetsetter? At Hankyu Men’s Tokyo, you’ll find all sorts of products for men, from highend to casual fashion to leather goods and skincare, to suit your fast-paced lifestyle. 2-5-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda. 03 6252 1381. www. hankyu-dept.co.jp/mens-tokyo/ english/.

Epitomising Tokyo’s youth fashion culture, Candy is a popular haunt for young fashionistas and offers a wide range of labels from high-end international brands (J.W. Anderson and Valentino) to cutting-edge Japanese brands (99%IS- and Christian Dada). 18-4 Udagawacho, Shibuya. 03 5456 9891. www.candy-nippon.com.

SISTER

Sister’s got sway among the young and fashion-conscious women of Tokyo. If cutting-edge is what you’re after, shop here for local and international brands like Carven, as well as vintage/used clothing from the ’40s and beyond. 2F Fake, 18-4 Udagawacho, Shibuya. 03 5456 9892. sister-tokyo.com.

PASS THE BATON

Here you’ll find a grand selection of secondhand antiques, tableware, clothing and art items. Similarly to that of the flagship store at Marunouchi Brick Square, the interior was designed by Masamichi Katayama – founder of interior design company Wonderwall Inc. B2F Omotesando Hills West, 4-12-10 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 6447 0707. www.pass-the-baton.com.

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ROUNDABOUT

Selecting sophisticated lifestyle goods from around the world – some handmade, some as old as 100 years – Roundabout is the go-to store for unique stationery, crockery, clothing, accessories and more. Its sister store, Outbound, is nearby too. 2F, 1-6-7 Kichijoji Minamicho, Musashino. 0422 47 5780. roundabout.to.

[100 BEST SHOPS IN TOKYO]

NEGLA

Negla is a charmingly haphazard junk shop with an eye for ageing but attractive bric a brac. The building itself is not easily identifiable, but you’ll know when you’ve arrived as much of what’s on sale spills out onto the forecourt. It’s hard to say what the shop specialises in (antiquated crates, shelves, bottles, lamps, corner tables); file it under ‘assorted household items from bygone days’. 102 Fuji Mansion, 2-39-5, Sendagi, Bunkyo. 050 3417 3766. www.negla.net.

7×7 LABORATORY/BERBERJIN

From the heart of Harajuku, Laboratory Berberjin spreads American vintage love with hip-hop influenced items plus one very cool T-shirt collection for all those coveted old band tees. 3-21-22 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 5414 3190. laboratory.paris-tx.com.

N ID

Run by fashion distributor Dune, N id offers both understated and edgy labels with relaxed silhouettes, including Assembly New York, Edwina Hörl, Henrik Vibskov, Ffixxed and House of the Very Island’s. 1-3-2 Jinnan, Shibuya. 03 5784 5448. nid-tokyo.com.

DIGAWEL

Designer Kohei Nishimura is not shy on experimental cuts and his interesting silhouettes, which he says are influenced by music and street culture, have made Digawel one of the top Japanese menswear brands of the moment. His store is situated in a quiet part of Yutenji, a popular residential area for creatives. 2-11-16 Nakacho, Meguro. 03 6452 3220. www.digawel.com.

MANNENYA

Look for the giant turtle painted on a flashy yellow building and you’ll be on the doorstep of this popular tourist destination that sells everything from knickerbockers and jika-tabi (work shoes) to hot-pink helmets and Hello Kitty items. 3-8-1 NishiShinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 3373 1111. www.mannen-ya.co.jp.

ICON

Guided by the creative hand of Eiji Hatanaka, Icon is a great concept store in Omotesando. Stocking high-end fashion, the store employs the theme ‘House’ and regularly collaborates with influential designers and artists, providing them with ‘rooms’ in which to express their creativity. Wander through the living room, dining room, library and so on and find pieces by 3.1 Phillip Lim, J.W. Anderson, Krisvanassche and more. 5-39-1 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 6419 7444. icontky.com.

CHRISTOPHER NEMETH

One of the most iconic stores in the Omotesando/Harajuku area, this highly conceptual space shows off pieces by the late fashion designer and artist Christopher Nemeth. His clothes are also currently available at Dover Street Market London/ Ginza, Trading Museum Comme des Garçons Paris/Tokyo, and Comme des Garçons Chelsea. 4-13-5 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 3401 2123. www.christophernemeth.co.

VINTAGE AND SECONDHAND NICO

Perfect for late-night shopping, Nico is open till 11pm on weekdays. It’s just a few minutes from Kichijoji Station and sells on-trend yet eclectic secondhand clothing from Europe and the US. It also has a branch called Bank in Sangenjaya. 2F Ohtake Bldg, 1-1-2 Kichijoji Minamicho, Musashino. 0422 72 1557. www.twovirgin.com.

This select store for men, founded by Junya Kawakami, is a favourite among fashion industry peeps who enjoy picking up customised items here. Its clothes and goods are sourced from San Francisco and presented in a minimalist environment (although the bathroom, which you must see, is the complete opposite). 1-5-11 Shibuya, Shibuya. 03 6427 6315. seven-by-seven.com.

PAPER AND STATIONERY DAIKANYAMA TSUTAYA BOOKS

In a perfect world, all bookshops would be like this. Tokyo’s Klein Dytham Architecture won an award at the World Architecture Festival for their work on Daikanyama T-Site, which is spread across three interlinked buildings adorned with lattices of interlocking Ts. The centre is dominated by rental chain Tsutaya, whose selections here

include a range of English-language titles, art books, antique tomes and magazine back issues. There are also music and DVD sections, and if you’re looking to enjoy some vintage periodicals and cocktails in a sophisticated setting, the upstairs Anjin lounge is hard to beat. 17-5 Sarugakucho, Shibuya. 03 3770 2525. www.tsite.jp/ daikanyama/.

POSTALCO Steeped in the atmosphere of a bygone era, Postalco is proof that good taste never goes out of style. This classy stationery and accessory shop started life in Brooklyn, New York in 2000, and did a lengthy stint in Kyobashi before relocating to its current home in Shibuya at the end of 2012. If you still prefer paper to iPads, you’re probably going to appreciate their fabric and calfskin legal envelopes, notebooks with starch-pressed cotton covers, and travel bags that are sturdy enough to carry a stack of hardbacks. 3F Yamaji Bldg, 1-6-3 Dogenzaka, Shibuya. 03 6455 0531.postalco.net. KAKIMORI

You might find yourself falling in love with the art of writing again after a visit to this specialist stationery shop. Kakimori’s range of pens, inks and letter sets are chosen on the basis of how comfortable they are to use, and customers are welcome to try out the fountain pens in store. Best of all are the madeto-order notebooks, prepared in five to 10 minutes, with an infinitely customisable selection of covers, paper and bindings available. 4-20-12 Kuramae, Taito. 03 3864 3898. www.kakimori.com.

TORO

Take the battered old lift to the third floor, where you’ll find this (tiny) daddy of Shibuya vintage clothing shops. Its carefully chosen, on-trend selections make most of its competitors look like the jumpedup thrift stores they really are. Toro specialises in decent quality vintage clothing from the US and Europe, for both men and women, and also does original remakes. The prices are a little steep, but the staff are friendly and the clothing full of character. Its sister shop, Otoe in Harajuku, is also worth a visit. 4F Ishida Bldg, 6-19-17 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 3486 8673. www. facebook.com/torovintage.

PAPIER LABO

The ultimate destination for paper sniffers, i.e. people who love paper. Satisfying all your letter-writing, letterpress and paper-related desires, this Sendagaya shop accepts customised orders for anything you may want printed spacing looks very big here. 104, 3-52-5 Sendagaya, Shibuya. 03 5411 1696. papierlabo.com.

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[100 BEST SHOPS IN TOKYO]

1LDK APARTMENTS.

1LDK Apartments is the lifestyle-oriented branch of 1LDK, the popular Nakameguro clothing store that draws an aesthetic comparison with Muji. Offering clothes, food and homeware, the store consists of three main sectors: 1LDK Me for a highly wearable selection of women’s and men’s clothing; Taste and Sense food section for casual café fare by morning, then restaurant and bar service from noon to evening; and Edited/ Found Store for books and interior goods. B-Town East, 1-7-13 Kamimeguro, Meguro. 03 5728 7140. 1ldkshop.com.

LIFESTYLE AND COLLECTIBLES TODAY’S SPECIAL JIYUGAOKA Launched in March 2012, Today’s Special is the brainchild of popular Tokyo lifestyle brand Cibone and primarily stocks food, but they also have a wide range of household goods, clothes and healthcare products. The third-floor café, Today’s Table, sells seasonal dishes for hungry shoppers. There’s another branch of the store inside Shibuya Hikarie, just in front of Shibuya Station. 2-17-8 Jiyugaoka, Meguro. 03 5729 7131. www.todaysspecial.jp. BEST PACKING STORE Packing doesn’t have to be a soulsucking chore. Turn it into something infinitely more pleasurable by picking up fun and stylish travel essentials from Best Packing Store, which sells all kinds of interesting accessories and comfort clothing for those on

the move. Popular brands include Lorinza for bags, Postalco for wallets, folders and notebooks, and Porter Classic for worldly menswear. 1-23-5 Aobadai, Meguro. 03 5773 5586. www.bestpackingstore.com.

BIOTOP

The idea here was to create a shopping space within a natural, living ecosystem. Launched in 2010, Biotop takes care of your fashion, food and lifestyle needs, while even offering natural cosmetics and a plant nursery. Stock up on emerging and familiar global fashion labels such as Carven and Hyke, and then grab a healthy lunch at the rustic Irving Place café upstairs, from where you get a good view of the designer treehouse outside. 4-6-44 Shirokanedai, Minato. 03 3444 2421. www.biotop.jp.

THE CONRAN SHOP SHINJUKU Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, The Conran Shop Shinjuku is one of the leading interior design stores in Tokyo offering BLACK BRICK

Black Brick presents a wide selection of fashion, stationery, household items, plants and beauty products. Look out for Weck’s glass jars, Lodge’s cast iron cookware and Institut Karité’s world-famous shaving soap. Find the store just behind famous electronics store Yodobashi Camera, near Kichijoji Station. 101 Sunwood Kichijoji Flats, 1-22-5 Kichijojihoncho, Musashino. 0422 27 5056. www.blackbrick.jp.

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classic, vintage and contemporary furnishings. If your wallet can take the heat, you could pretty much kit your whole home out here, and pick up a few bits of stationery and skincare products while you’re at it. 3-4F Shinjuku Park Tower, 3-7-1 NishiShinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 5322 6600. www.conran.co.jp.

NATURAL MART

Struggling to find natural and organic products in Tokyo? This small Hiroo grocery store stocks a range of organic produce, from fresh fruit and vegetables to imported vegetarian readymeals, beauty products and natural pet food. Vegans, diabetics, raw-food enthusiasts and health fanatics will be delighted to find products like cacao powder, coconut oil, agave syrup, grain coffee, wheatfree pasta and so much more. 102 Hiroo Flower Home, 5-19-5 Hiroo, Shibuya. 03 6408 2528. naturalmart.jp.

MUJIRUSHI RYOHIN SHIBUYA SEIBU

Imagine a place where all is calm and beautifully designed with clean lines and a neutral palette. This is Muji. It stocks everything from home and office accessories to toys, crafts and even a range of skincare. A recent revamp saw it reopening in November last year and this branch now also features a delicatessen, Café & Meal Muji, which offers some much-needed respite from the madding Shibuya crowds. B1-5F Movida, 21-1 Udagawacho, Shibuya. 03 3770 1636. www.muji.com.

NATURAL HOUSE AOYAMA

Another must-visit for organicproduct seekers, Natural House is located on Aoyama-dori near Omotesando crossing. Not only does

it stock organic vegetables, fresh fish, cosmetics and books, it also has a delicatessen where you can grab a seat for a quick lunch. 3-6-18 Kita-Aoyama, Minato. 03 3797 2955. www.naturalhouse.co.jp.

TOKYO CULTUART BY BEAMS

Produced by leading Japanese retailer Beams, this third-floor store takes its name from a mixture of the words ‘culture’, ‘cult’ and ‘art’. It caters to the world’s extreme ‘otaku’ (subculture geeks), offering an assortment of ultra-collectible figurines, art, gadgets, books and more, all of which are based on Japanese culture. 3F, 3-24-7 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 3470 3251. tinyurl.com/TOTbeams.

RECTOHALL Situated in a quiet part of trendy Ebisu, Rectohall offers minimalist clothing, furniture and other goods, while also functioning as a rental studio for shoots and exhibitions. You’ll find another branch in the basement of Parco Shibuya Part 1. Green Hills, 2-15-6, Ebisu-Minami, Shibuya. rectohall.com. THANKO RAREMONO SHOP

Found on Akihabara’s main thoroughfare, this two-storey shop sells about every computer-related gadget imaginable. Adapters, card readers and wearable cameras are some of the more standard wares, while the original USB items are more on the quirky side: how about a fan-equipped necktie or a cat-themed pollen mask? If you’re showing a Tokyo newcomer around, this should be a fun place to stop for souvenir shopping. Shin-Suehiro Bldg B, 3-14-8 Sotokanda, Chiyoda. 03 5297 5783. www.thanko.jp.

[100 BEST SHOPS IN TOKYO]

GAOTCHI

Popular among foreigners, Gaotchi carries retro toys and character goods that were common in the Showa era. It’s full of collectibles, so if you’re looking for something specific, ask the shop manager for assistance. 3F Nakano Broadway, 5−52−15 Nakano, Nakano. 03 5577 4300.

NAKANO BROADWAY

Walk down the cathedral-like shotengai (shopping street) in Nakano and you’ll reach the covered Broadway section. A popular haunt for Tokyo’s otaku community, this five-floor complex contains numerous outlets of Mandarake, specialising in new and secondhand manga; branches of Fujiya Avic, the secondhand CD/DVD/anime store offering rarities and bootlegs; and shops selling collectible action figures. Most of the geek action is found on the second and third floors, though it’s worth exploring the other corners of the building to see what you find. 5-52-15 Nakano, Nakano. 03 3388 7004. www.nbw.jp.

6% DOKIDOKI

Even in the middle of Harajuku, Sebastian Masuda’s lurid pink boutique stands out. This shrine to the ‘shockingly cute’ offers an array of accessories and clothing in some truly eye-popping colours. A frequent Kyary Pamyu Pamyu collaborator, Masuda likes to work in shades of vivid yellow, pink and purple, with recurring motifs like hearts, stars, ribbons, unicorns and ice creams. Decorative touches like the illuminated make-up mirrors and carousel horse sitting in the window add to the effect: this is about as kawaii as Tokyo shops get. 2F TX101 Bldg, 4-28-16 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 3479 6116. www. dokidoki6.com.

POP LIFE DEPARTMENTM’S

The creativity involved in Japan’s porn industry is on full display at this seven-floor sex goods shop next to Akihabara Station, and the best way to peruse their wares is slowly, from the top down. One of the most interesting things about a trip around M’s is just how normal it feels. Sure, you’ll find the occasional lurking weirdo, but it’s also particularly popular with young married couples. B1-6F Taiheido Bldg, 1-15-13 Sotokanda, Chiyoda. 03 3252 6166. www.ms-online.co.jp.

DAISO HARAJUKU

Whether you’re looking for household products or cheap souvenirs, you’re sure to find what you need at this three-floor ¥100 shop, a prominent landmark on Harajuku’s Takeshitadori shopping street. Daiso makes life easier for international shoppers by offering floor guides in English as well as Japanese. 107 Village, 1-19-24 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 5775 9641. www.daiso-sangyo.co.jp.

NAKANO ROPEWAY

Nakano Broadway is the domain of strange and unusual retailers, but this bathroom-sized shop selling ‘variety goods’ stands out even there. Most of the stuff available here might look like junk to us boring adults, but Japan’s subculture-loving teenage girls find plenty of value in the kitschy, surrealistic selection. We recommend the cat-themed T-shirts. B1-3F Nakano Broadway, 5-52-15 Nakano, Nakano. 090 6501 6304. www.nakanoropeway.com.

TOMATO

From its name, you’d expect this five-floor store to sell, well, tomatoes. Instead, it sells fabric at wholesale prices. Around the neighbourhood, there are several branches stocking beads, accessories and other items. 6-44-6 Higashi-Nippori, Arakawa. 03 3801 6750. www.nippori-tomato.com.

BUNKAYA ZAKKATEN

NAKANO ROPEWAY: MANABU MOROOKA

Leopard-print crockery, Chairman Mao memorabilia – there’s no telling exactly what you might find in this cluttered backstreet bazaar. Bunkaya Zakkaten has been a fixture on the Harajuku scene for over 40 years now. Its unique, quirky atmosphere is a draw in itself. 3-28-9 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 3423 8980. www.bunkaya.co.jp.

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[100 BEST SHOPS IN TOKYO]

BEST NEW SHOPS

The Pool Aoyama keeps things fresh by updating their decor regularly – this is how the store looked upon launching

THE POOL AOYAMA

One of the hottest new stores of the year. This shop used to be the indoor pool of an Aoyama apartment built in the ‘70s and regularly changes its themes and decor. Representing the current Tokyo fashion scene, it’s a must-visit for those seeking anything on trend, including souvenir-type goods. Chateau Toyo Minami-Aoyama, 5-12-24 Minami-Aoyama, Minato. 0120 298 133 (Jun Customer Centre). the-pool-aoyama.com.

HOTEL EMANON

Hotel Emanon is, in fact, not a hotel but a restaurant serving artisanal cuisine and coffee. In addition, it stocks a range of lifestyle products and furniture, and hosts regular pop-up shops in collaboration with decor stores and plant nurseries. 7-1 Nampeidaicho, Shibuya. 03 3780 2511. hotelemanon.com.

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[100 BEST SHOPS IN TOKYO]

FETHERS GOFFA X

Fethers Goffa is top of the pops when it comes to secondhand clothing stores in Osaka. This April, they landed in Tokyo, converting an old Japanese-style house in Harajuku into Fethers Goffa X. On the first floor you’ll find vintagewear for both men and women, while the second floor functions as a rental space for exhibitions and workshops. 2-31-9 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 5411 8717. fethersgoffax.blogspot.jp.

CIBONE

Recently relaunched under the theme of ‘New Antiques, New Classics’, Cibone is one of the most talked-about new stores of the year. It offers a carefully curated selection of furniture, day-to-day essentials, fashion, art and beauty products from all over the world. Cibone also

organises regular in-store events, including exhibitions and pop-up boutiques. It’s worth noting that the decor was done by Daikei Mills, an up-and-coming Japanese interior designer duo. 2F, 2-27-25 MinamiAoyama, Minato. 03 3475 8017. www.cibone.com.

STUDIOUS JINNAN

Stocking Japanese brands only, Studious is a rising select store that seeks to promote local products to a global audience. Its store in Jinnan, an area of Shibuya, is a high-end version selling leading Japanese brands like N.Hoolywood and White Mountaineering. Be sure to check out its ‘Tokyo Souvenir’ section for stylish Tokyo-related goods. 1-5-19 Jinnan, Shibuya. 03 6277 5582. www.studious.co.jp.

HYPER MARKET

Take your mobile life to new creative heights with unique accessories for smartphones and tablet devices from this Harajuku store, which sources its products from around the world and displays them in handy categories such as Sports & Health, Music, Future, Business & Travel, and Gadgets & Toys. 6-5-6 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 5766 8630. www. hyper-m.jp.

NOTORIA.

Founded by Naoaki Tobe, who runs vintage store Grimoire, this shop offers antique furniture, botanical products and objets d’art sourced from around the world. The space also has a studio next door that can be rented for exhibitions, photoshoots etc. 4F Terusu Jinnan, 1-10-7 Jinnan, Shibuya. 03 3780 5570. notoria.jp.

SURR BY LAILA

Although quite difficult to find, this place is worth the trouble. Vintage fashion geeks will delight in the high-quality designer menswear and accessories from a wide range of eras. 202, 3-15-13 Kita-Aoyama, Minato. 03 5468 5966. surr.co.jp.

WHITE MOUNTAINEERING Designer Yosuke Aizawa’s White Mountaineering label is leading the Japanese fash pack right now. This premium ‘outdoor-inspired’ brand moved its flagship store from Omotesando to Daikanyama this April. You’ll find all of the brand’s latest designs here, as well as the more basic Wardrobe line. 2-7 Sarugakucho, Shibuya. 03 6416 5381. www. whitemountaineering.com. BLOOM&BRANCH

IMA CONCEPT STORE IMAGE: AKIRA SAKAMOTO (VDA INC.)

Launched this March, Bloom&Branch Aoyama presents

sophisticated men’s and women’s wear with a Japanese-European hybrid style, offering a distinguished selection of clothing and products. The store’s refined atmosphere is complemented by an elegant café space called Cobi Coffee and a shoepolishing corner called The Bar by Brift H. 101 Dai-ichi Kuyo Bldg, 5-10-5 Minami-Aoyama, Minato. 03 6892 2014. bloom-branch.jp.

AKIHABARA RADIO KAIKAN

Originally established in 1950, this is one of those venues that’s become a symbol of Akihabara’s tech and fictional character culture. It closed down for renovation in 2011 but was relaunched this July with a bigger and better selection of stores selling all sorts of ‘electric town’ goods such as figurines, idol merchandise, trading cards and pretty much any electronic equipment you need. 1-15-16 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda. www.akihabara-radiokaikan.co.jp.

IMA CONCEPT STORE WIND AND SEA

Photographer, stylist, creative director and all-round trend expert Takashi Kumagai finally opened his own store this May, using his personal lifestyle as the premise. Wind and Sea primarily stocks Kumagai’s brand Naissance, but also sells vintage and miscellaneous goods which he picks up while travelling the world. The store is always open at the weekend, but opens irregularly on weekdays. 5-19-9 Komazawa, Setagaya. 03 6809 8323. windandseashop.tumblr.com.

Consisting of Ima Gallery, Ima Books and Ima Cafe, this 500m² concept store in Roppongi focuses on photography. It provides a fresh space for photographers from both Japan and abroad to exhibit their works and share their philosophies through workshops and talk events. The bookshop carries over 2,000 titles, including a collection of independent labels that are rather hard to find in Japan. Browse while enjoying a cup of coffee by the masterful Obscura Coffee Roasters. 3F AXIS Bldg, 5-17-1 Roppongi, Minato. 03 5572 7144. imaonline.jp/list/imaconceptstore/en/.

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[100 BEST SHOPS IN TOKYO]

BOOK STORES B&B

Bed and breakfast? No, unfortunately you won’t be asked whether you want a sunny-side up at this ‘B&B’. For those who like a drink whilst flicking through pages of a good read till late at night, Book and Beer is the place to go. Check out their talk events too or pick up a piece of vintage furniture provided by interior shop Kontrast. 2F Dai-ni Matsuya Bldg, 2-12-4 Kitazawa, Setagaya. 03 6450 8272. bookandbeer.com.

POST

Only a short walk from the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography, Post is an independent bookshop located in the quiet backstreets of Ebisu that carries not only new titles, but also some more uncommon Western publications, used books, as well as local titles. Post houses their own publisher limArt, but they also work closely with foreign publishers. 2-10-3 Ebisu-Minami, Shibuya. 03 3713 8670. post-books.info.

NADIFF A/P/A/R/T

Arguably the city’s best-stocked art bookshop, NADiff a/p/a/r/t boasts shelves crammed with Japanese and foreign books, as well as a selection of prints. Its own NADiff Gallery holds regular exhibitions of both emerging and established artists. 1-18-4 Ebisu, Shibuya. 03 3446 4977. www.nadiff.com.

BOOKMARC

If you’re a Marc Jacobs fan you’ll probably already know about his speciality store, Bookmarc. Wellestablished overseas, the first Asian branch of Bookmarc opened

in Harajuku in late 2013. Not only does it boast a rich collection of books related to art, music and culture – all of which have at one time or another inspired the designer – it also stocks rare vintage books, stationery, tote bags and other accessories. Trot down to the basement for the largest men’s-only Marc by Marc Jacobs store in the world. 4-26-14 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 5412 0351. mjmobile.jp/bookmarc/.

KOMIYAMA BOOK STORE

Located in vintage-book mecca Jimbocho, Komiyama is one of the best secondhand bookstores in Tokyo, especially when it comes to fashion, photography, contemporary art, Tokyo’s subcultures and EdoTokyo culture. 1-7 Kanda Jinbocho, Chiyoda. 03 3291 0495. www.bookkomiyama.co.jp.

ON SUNDAYS On Sundays is inside the WatariUm Museum of Contemporary Art and stocks books on art, photography and architecture, as well as stationery and other items. If nothing else, you’re sure to leave with a bundle of beautiful postcards. 3-7-6 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 3470 1424. www.watarium.co.jp/ onsundays/html/. SHELF Shelf specialises in photography books, from newly published to outof-print editions. Found near WatariUm Museum of Contemporary Art, this is a treasure box for those who work in the field or who simply can’t get enough of arty imagery. 3-7-4 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 3405 7889. www.shelf.ne.jp.

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SHIMADA YOSHO After browsing the book wagons holding discounted books at the entrance to the store, you may not even feel the need to venture further inside Shimada Yosho. But then you’d be missing out on all the imported and beautifully designed books on art, fashion, photography, architecture, cooking and landscape gardening. T-Place, 5-5-25 MinamiAoyama, Minato. 03 3407 3863. www.shimadayosho.co.jp. TWELVEBOOKS Another one for photography fans. A rising Japanese distributor of contemporary photography books published in Europe and the US, Twelvebooks recently launched its bookstore within Vacant, one of the cultural hubs of Harajuku. 3-20-13 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 6459 2962. www.twelve-books.com. HYAKUNEN

Cult bookshop Hyakunen is situated in Kichijoji, opposite Tokyu Department Store. Aside from its grand selection of secondhand and newly published books, magazines and zines, this store holds talk sessions and exhibitions, encouraging interaction between authors and readers. 2F Murata Bldg, 2-2-10 Kichijoji-honcho, Musashino. 0422 27 6885. www.100hyakunen.com.

BOOKS KINOKUNIYA TOKYO

With six floors carrying everything from manga and maps to magazines and literature from all over the world, this is one of the best bookstores in Tokyo, and not least because of its impressive selection of foreign-

language publications (on the sixth floor). Takashimaya Times Square, 5-24-2 Sendagaya, Shibuya. 03 5361 3301. www.kinokuniya.co.jp/c/ store/Books-Kinokuniya-Tokyo.

0FR. TOKYO

Paris bookstore and art gallery 0fr. opened this Tokyo outpost in Nakameguro in spring 2014 and area trendsetters immediately warmed up to the arty place. Teleport to Paris via the art books, magazines and other display items, then experience a traditional Japanese apartment atmosphere when taking off your shoes to enter the gallery at the back. You can buy underground Japanese and international artworks, and enjoy natural French-style food like organic croquemonsieur. Open from Friday to Sunday, 10am-10pm. 1-11-1 Kamimeguro, Meguro. tinyurl. com/TOTofr.

Promotional feature International Art & Design Add some gravitas to your fridge proclamations with this magnet Beautiful! shaped like a shuriken, the traditional and deadly ninja weapon that nobody sees coming. The Art & Design floor also offers a wide variety of seasonally rotating accessories from all over the world, including some high-quality Japanese leather items.

LOCAL INSIGHT

TOP PICKS AT SHIBUYA

LOFT Having a hard time figuring out what to get for your folks back home? If you need something both inspiring and peculiarly Japanese, head over to Loft. This gem of a store has been a local favourite for years and offers everything from stationery and kitchen utensils to homewares and cosmetics – a whopping 85,000 items in total. Just wandering around the floors works as a crash course into what’s hot in Japan right now. Still, in case the vast selection makes your head spin, we’ve picked out a few top choices to consider on each floor.

Syuriken Magnet ¥1,500

Variety Goods A mini version of Tokyo Tower, built with Nanoblocks (think tiny toy bricks), a teeny lady clinging onto your noodle cup, or a helping of vacuum-packed cup noodles? The miniature choice is yours on this funfilled floor.

Cup Noodle Refill ¥122

Nanoblock from ¥6,800

Talk aboutding a soft lan

Interior Created by a renowned Kyoto bedding manufacturer, these cushions are made of materials like denim and sailcloth, ensuring extreme durability. Don’t forget to check out the rest of the useful but stylish collection either – how about a humidifier shaped like Mt Fuji?

Chokotto Oasis Nihon no Tabi ¥1,200

Tetra Mini ¥5,000

Nambu-tekki Iron Tetrapot, ¥6,000

Household Goods Even the clumsiest of us need not worry with this one: the Shupua Cup may look exactly like it’s made of glass, but is actually crafted from durable soft silicone. If you’re more interested in the tried and tested stuff, check out the world-class Japanese kitchen knives and Nambu-tekki iron teapots.

Shupua Cup ¥1,800

Health & Beauty Goods These nail clippers aren’t just any old claw-trimmers: recalling the proud traditions of Japanese craftsmanship, the Takumi no Waza clips boast top-level sharpness and comfort. This floor also offers plenty of other beautifying essentials, from health products to cosmetics.

Takumi no Waza ¥1,800

Sushi Strap from ¥680

Loft Shibuya 18-2 Udagawacho, Shibuya. 03 3462 3807. www.loft.co.jp/shoplist/shibuya. 10am - 9pm daily Smartphone Stand ¥3,600

IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Let’s shop!

Gift Goods Although gift cards and fashion essentials are the main attraction here, humourists will enjoy the sushithemed phone straps – just don’t put them in your mouth.

Stationery Available in 24 different colours, Iroshizuku fountain pen ink comes in typically Japanese shades like Tsutsuji, which recalls an azalea bonsai tree. Here, you’ll also find writing tools, paper, character-themed notebooks and much more.

B1F

iroshizuku ¥1,300

[100 BEST SHOPS IN TOKYO]

MUSIC STORES TOWER RECORDS

Already Japan’s largest record store, Tower Records was given an extensive overhaul in late 2012 that increased its whopping 5,000 square metres of floor space. There’s now a bookstore and a decent café on the 2nd floor, the music sections now give prominent placement to back catalogue stock as well as new arrivals, and there’s a video streaming venue called Tower Revolve Project in the basement, plus extra space for live performances. 1-22-14, Jinnan, Shibuya. 03 3496 3661. tower.jp/.

E EARPHONE Treat your ears with top-of-therange earphones, headphones and headphone amplifiers (they also have basic models for budgetwatchers). Also, music accessory lovers will enjoy picking through the selection of used items. 4F Kanda Eight Bldg, 4-6-7 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda. 03 3256 1701. www.eearphone.jp. DISKUNION SHOWA KAYOU-KAN There are several branches of Diskunion in Shinjuku, but the

DISC SHOP ZERO It’s rare to find UK dub and Bristol bass music in Tokyo, but here you can choose from bands such as Massive Attack and Smith & Mighty, as well as reggae, breakbeat and dubstep groups. 3F Takimoto Bldg, 2-17-10 Kitazawa, Setagaya. 03 5432 6129. www.discshopzero.com.

Showa Kayou Store is unique in that it specialises in popular Japanese music from the Showa period (19261989). Selling used records, CDs and books, the store covers a wide range of genres including enka (traditional Japanese pop ballads) and Japanese idols’ pop tunes. BF Shinjuku Mitsumine Bldg. 3-28-4 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 6380 6861. diskunion.net.

JAZZY SPORT MUSIC SHOP TOKYO Jazzy Sport is a record store as well as a music production company representing DJ Mitsu The Beats and Cro-Magnon. Good for Afropop, disco, hip-hop and jazz. 3-17-7 Gohongi, Meguro. 03 6452 3916. www.jazzysport.com.

JET SET

Based in Shimokitazawa and Kyoto (and online), Jet Set covers all genres with albums selected by their expert buyers. Best if you’re looking for soft rock, soul, house, disco and techno. And if you’re into Japanese pop, you’ll be amazed by Jet Set’s limitededition 7/12 inch records. 201 Yanagawa Bldg, 2-33-12 Kitazawa, Setagaya. 03 5452 2262. www. jetsetrecords.net.

BIG LOVE

Trusted among musos for its good taste, Big Love is an independent record store that collects vinyl and cassette tapes of indie bands from the US, the UK and Europe. Soak in the atmosphere at the bar space where you can enjoy Shiga Kogen beer, one of the best Japanese craft beers. 3F-A, Houei Bldg, 2-31-3 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 5775 1315. www.bigloverecords.jp.

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HMV RECORD SHOP

If you swear by vinyl and enjoy digging through piles of secondhand records, then this Shibuya shop will please you to no end. Opened in August, HMV stocks up to 80,000 titles, with around 60 percent of those being vinyl and the rest CDs (although a room at the back holds a small selection of cassette tapes). The focus is on releases from the ’60s to the late ’90s from all genres, and most records can be tried out on the turntable, allowing you to confirm the sound quality before buying. 1-2F Noa Shibuya, 36-2 Udagawacho, Shibuya. 03 5784 1390. recordshop.hmv.co.jp/.

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What to buy this autumn LOCAL INSIGHT

Introducing Shibuya Parco’s hottest, happening stores Shibuya is the place where the latest trends in fashion and culture meet. At the forefront of this culture, department store Shibuya Parco has been trendsetting since 1973 and last year celebrated its 40th anniversary. As the complex embarks upon its next exciting phase this autumn, several of its brand-specific stores are joining the fun with openings or re-openings. Here, we introduce four of the most noteworthy. GROUND Y A brand-new store with selected items from various Yohji Yamamoto labels. Departing from Yohji Yamamoto’s more grown-up collections, Ground Y aims at a younger market with a street styleinfused range. The in-store images by renowned photographer Leslie Kee are also worth a look. PART1, 1F GANRYU The first specialty store for the Ganryu label from Comme des Garçons. Launched in 2008, the label already has a strong following among men tuned in to Japan’s fashion trends. The Shibuya Parco store also features the full women’s fashion line-up for the same label, debuting in Autumn/Winter 2014. PART1, 1F CABANE DE ZUCCA This consistently popular brand, known as Zucca, has opened its remodelled store.The floor area has been expanded and the store features the unique new Zucca Dayz collection with its supermarket-themed concept. Fashion items from this range, which take food and everyday goods as their motif, are a good option for reasonably priced gifts. PART1, 3F 3.1 PHILLIP LIM SHIBUYA PARCO The first specialty menswear pop-up store for New York label 3.1 Phillip Lim is here! The store marks the final phase of the brand’s Japanese project, themed ‘Microcosm’. The interior of the store, which interprets ‘Bauhaus Cowboy’ in a Japanese style, is a must-see. PART1, 1F

SHIBUYA PARCO 15-1 Udagawacho, Shibuya, Tokyo 03 3464 5111. shibuya.parco.jp Open 10am to 9pm daily

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PARCO: MANABU MOROOKA, KEISUKE TANIGAWA

[100 BEST SHOPS IN TOKYO]

ORIENTAL BAZAAR

Probably the best-known gift shop in Tokyo, this is a useful one-stop outlet for almost everything: dolls, china, kimonos, yukata, furniture, antiques and books on Japan. Ideal for stocking up on presents and souvenirs in one easy trip. Prices are generally moderate, and staff speak English. 5-9-13 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 3400 3933. www.orientalbazaar.co.jp/jp/.

BINGOYA

Great for souvenir shopping, Bingoya offers unpretentious traditional crafts made in Japan including pottery, fabric, lacquerware, glassware, dolls and folk art. 10-6 Wakamatsucho, Shinjuku. 03 3202 8778. www.quasar.nu/bingoya/.

RYOGOKU TAKAHASHI

This shop stocks more sumo-related goods than even sumo stadium Ryogoku Kokugikan, and is full of unique souvenir products for sumo lovers. Their offerings include hand towels, dolls, setta (Japanese leather-soled sandals), folding fans, mugs and bento boxes. 4-31-15 Ryogoku, Sumida. 03 3631 2420. edo-sumo.d.dooo.jp.

SOUVENIR STORES

AQUVII TOKYO

The original Daikanyama branch of Aquvii is devoted to ‘antiques and oddities’ from around the world (usually eastern Europe), but this Shibuya offshoot keeps its affiliations strictly local. Billing itself as a souvenir shop, Aquvii Tokyo showcases products that ‘connect Japan with the world’, including off-kilter accessories and vintage toys. 101 Dai-san Utsunomiya Bldg, 6-19-16 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 6427 1219. www.aquvii.com.

SOUVENIR FROM TOKYO Much more than just an ordinary museum shop. With a lot more to offer than the usual postcards and coffee-table books (though it’s got plenty of those, too), Souvenir From Tokyo lives up to its name with a diverse selection of Japanese-style accessories, clothes, crockery and pieces by feted local designers like Mina Perhonen and Anrealage. Whether you’re looking for a memento or an offbeat present for a friend, this is a good place to start. 1-B1F The National Art Center, Tokyo, 7-22-2, Roppongi, Minato. 03 6812 9933. www.souvenirfromtokyo.jp.

LA RONDE D’ARGILE

A great place if you’re looking for beautiful pottery, glassware and fabrics made by Japanese artists. Its neighbourhood, Kagurazaka, makes for a great after-shopping stroll, too. La Ronde d’Argile is moving to a new place and is re-opening on October 18 this year. Here’s where to find them: Maya Bldg, 11 Wakamiyacho, Shinjuku. 03 3260 6801. la-ronde.com.

DENGAMA

Satisfy all your Japanese tableware needs at this Kappabashi shop that sells finely crafted bowls, plates, chopstick rests, cups, soy sauce cruets, sake cups and much more at prices around 20 percent lower than the suggested retail price. Ideal for souvenirs and gifts. 1-4-3 NishiAsakusa,Taito. 03 5828 9355. www.dengama.jp/en/.

MIKURA GINZA NATSUNO

Chopsticks make affordable, portable and beautiful souvenirs. Make a beeline for this shop – it may be small in size but its amazing, eclectic collection will keep you busy browsing for ages. Takahashi Bldg, 6-7-4 Ginza, Chuo. 03 3569 0952. www.e-ohashi.com.

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Fittingly located on the north side of Asakusa’s Kappabashi (aka Kitchen Town), this specialist shop carries a dizzying variety of chopsticks in different lengths, colours and shapes – ask the staff to pair you up with ones that fit perfectly in your

KAMA ASA SHOTEN

Founded in 1908, Kama Asa on Asakusa’s Kappabashi (also known as Kitchen Town) deals in everything from kitchen knives (up to 80 different kinds) and exquisite Nanbu Tekki ironware to items like stylish crane-shaped graters and some of the best frying pans. Buy a knife and they’ll engrave it for you (no extra cost); they also offer an after-care service for knife sharpening and repair (extra charge applies). Service is available in English and French. 2-24-1 Matsugaya, Taito. 03 3841 9355. www.kama-asa. co.jp/en. hands. An engraving service is also available. 2F Musashiya, 3-25-11 Nishi-Asakusa, Taito. 03 3843 9882. www.kappabashi-mikura.com.

LOCAL INSIGHT

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10 THINGS TO DO AT TOKYU HANDS You can easily spend an entire day browsing the selection at this retail wonder, so let us give you a few pointers first

1 4

Dragging a bulky backpack all over Tokyo fits nobody’s idea of an enjoyable travelling experience, especially as you’re bound to bump into people on the crowded streets. Be it for business or for pleasure, bag manufacturer Yoshida’s sleek ‘Made in Japan’ creations will have you packing in style.

SOOTHE YOUR SKIN

Discover the beauty secrets of us Tokyoites at the eye-opening cosmetics floor, which stocks everything from standard creams and eyeliners to face-shaping masks and microcurrent massagers. There’s even a freely usable make-up corner for those of you who simply can’t wait to shift shape.

CARRY MORE WITH LESS

ACQUIRE A NEW AROMA

Who doesn’t want a home that smells like honey and flowers? Realise your olfactory dreams with aromatic oils, go for a diffuser with built-in speakers, or choose a pack of chic incense, available in over half a dozen flavours and packed in a fine, traditional paper pouch.

MAKE COOKING A PLEASURE

Kitting out your kitchen won’t feel like a chore with the colourful and convenient utensils, tableware and fun gadgets available in the cooking section. Standard spoons and pans are of course available, but we can’t help recommending the pretty bento boxes and shamoji rice paddles.

PICK UP A PRACTICAL PEN

Messed up the important message you were writing? Not to worry – with the magical erasable ink pens available here, you can fix your scribbling as often as you like. They’re available in a wide variety of colours, too. While you’re at it, make sure to check out the counterintuitive but admittedly cool stapleless staplers as well.

Whether you’re going camping over the weekend or planning a round-the-world trip, a visit to the travel section will fulfil all your gear-related needs. Light but durable suitcases are the top attraction, but more down-to-earth items like folding chairs and umbrellas are also worth a look.

STAY UP TO DATE, WHENEVER AND WHEREVER

Those not acquainted with the Japanese fascination for planners and journals may find the selection here a little overwhelming: these fully-equipped ‘techo’ come in almost every colour and shape imaginable – you can even get one themed after your favourite anime character. 2015 will be your most organised year so far, right?

LOSE THE LINT

Anyone who’s struggled with sellotape or other unseemly lint removal methods will appreciate a fine clothes brush. Pick your favourite from a selection of both standard choices and handmade creations, some courtesy of specialist makers with centuries of experience.

ACCESSORISE YOUR POOCH

The Japanese sure love their pets – just check out this section for proof. Cutesy outfits for dogs, including tiny hats and flannel shirts, are some of the more common offerings, while true enthusiasts can go for a high-tech, military-style animal pram or deluxe snacks made with Matsuzaka beef, one of Japan’s most renowned brands of meat.

IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

TREND UP YOUR TRAVELS

Tokyu Hands is your one-stop shop for everything from stationery to suitcases – one visit will satisfy most shopping needs for days. They operate a total of 14 stores in the Tokyo region, including locations in Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ikebukuro and Ginza. See www.tokyu-hands.co.jp/foreign.html for details on shop addresses, opening hours and so on.

PLAY WITH PLASTICS

Vintage cars, dinosaurs and spaceships are all nice and everything, but true miniature connoisseurs visiting the plastic models floor will first want to check out the amazingly detailed recreations of Japanese trains. The shinkansen models are of course safe choices, but local Tokyo options like the Yamanote line carriages exude a truly special charm.

TIPS FOR SHOPPING • Free yourself of taxes • Pay with your UnionPay card and get a 5% discount *See the website for applicable stores

• Flash your passport to get a 5% discount coupon *Available only at the Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ikebukuro and Ginza stores

Eating & Drinking IF YOU ONLY TRY FIVE SUSHI RESTAURANTS...

to add the word ‘tsugu’ (to succeed or inherit) to the restaurant’s name. And if you fancy something other than raw fish for dinner, you’re in luck: the menu also features a range of grilled fish and other small plates. Expect to pay from ¥10,000 plus tax for an Omakase (chef’s choice) course. 8 Arakicho, Shinjuku (YotsuyaSanchome Station). 03 3358 0934. 6pm-12.30am (last entry), closed Sun.

here are 5,000 sushi restaurants in Tokyo. To comprehend just how many that is, compare the figure to 500 McDonald’s outlets or 260 Starbucks cafés. Even though I am a self-confessed ‘sushi-bar otaku (geek)’ who visits over 100 sushi restaurants a year, it’s still not easy to narrow down 5,000 sushi spots to a top five. So to help me choose, I used the following ‘judging’ criteria: ● The class is high-end (chef’s selection from ¥10,000) but not super high-end (from ¥20,000). ● You can make a reservation at least two weeks in advance (or there is a high chance of being able to make a reservation). ● Not in the Michelin Guide. ● Has a distinctive preparation style. ● Not far from the city centre. ● Good option for high-end sushi restaurant first-timers, or those who cannot speak Japanese. TSUGU SUSHIMASA If you thought it was the fish that dictated how sushi tasted, think again. Many of the pros will tell you that it’s actually the rice, known as ‘shari’, that plays the most important role in determining flavour. You can certainly taste the difference at Tsugu Sushimasa. That’s because they don’t use regular rice vinegar (shirozu) here: instead, they prefer akazu, a red vinegar made from sake lees that was the default option for sushi back in the Edo period (16031868). It’s light brown in colour, with a stronger taste; think of it as the chardonnay to shirozu’s sauvignon blanc. Sushimasa has been going for three generations now, which is what inspired current chef Shogo Sugaya

Chef Shogo Sugaya azaku (red rice vinegar) for his flavoursome sushi (below)

Irifune’s ‘all sorts of tuna sushi’

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ICHIBANCHO TERUYA One of the pleasures of eating at a sushi restaurant is chatting with the chef, but there aren’t many places in Tokyo where you can do that in English. This is one of them. Teruya Iida moved to New York as a high-school student and started his training at a sushi restaurant in Manhattan, making him one of the few high-end sushi chefs in Tokyo who speaks English fluently. After returning to Japan, he opened his own restaurant. He still practises the Sushi Sho style of serving a wide variety of morsels in small portions, alternating between nigiri (using both shirozu and akazu vinegar) and side dishes. Expect some individual touches, too – including some

WORDS: @MASUYAMA. IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Eating & Drinking

Self-confessed ‘sushi-bar otaku’ Masu Masuyama reveals which ones you should choose. And they’re not the obvious

IRIFUNE If you asked Japanese diners what their favourite type of sushi was, most would probably pick tuna. You can find all sorts of restaurants that specialise in the fish, from budget kaiten-zushi (conveyor-belt sushi) joints to ultra-swanky places in Ginza that charge ¥3,000 a piece. If you want to get the very best tuna sushi at a less eye-watering price, though, you should take your business to Irifune instead. The ¥16,200 Magurozukushi Nigiri (literally, ‘all sorts of tuna sushi’) set here includes a dozen pieces of nigiri sushi and six rolls made with a variety of cuts (akami, chutoro, otoro and otoro aburi), plus omelette. Chef Katsumi Honda is in his seventies now, but he was just 27 years old when he first opened the restaurant back in 1968. As if that wasn’t notable enough, Irifune also stays open 365 days a year, and it doesn’t close between lunch and dinner. For a real treat, we recommend bringing along your favourite red wine – yup, you can bring your own if you’re sitting at a table – and pairing it with some otoro aburi. 3-31-7 Okusawa, Setagaya (Okusawa Station). 03 3720 1212. 11am-10pm daily.

Chef Teruya Iida (above) practises the Sushi Sho style

SUSHI HAYAKAWA Akira Hayakawa boasts a more diverse CV than the average sushi chef, including stints at restaurants in Roppongi and Ginza that specialise in other types of Japanese cuisine. Working behind a handsome wooden counter at this unmarked Ebisu restaurant, he employs a range of methods you wouldn’t normally see at a sushi restaurant. Typical dishes include young sea bream sandwiched between sheets of blossom-scented kelp, and channel rockfish skin braised with burning straw and served with kidneys marinated in soy sauce. Then there’s his signature dish, the Hayakawa The Hayakawa Special is rich tuna belly served with flakes of truffle

SUSHI HIROSE There are more than 30,000 sushi restaurants in all of Japan, but you’ll only find a handful of high-end places that keep tuna off the menu. Sushi Hirose is one of them, but it’s not out

of environmental concerns: chef Ryuji Hirose just says he prefers other kinds of fish. He’s a big fan of marinating, which he does by wrapping the fish in kelp and storing it in vinegar to bring out the flavour. Of the 30-odd seafood dishes on offer, a good dozen are prepared in this way; on a recent visit, these included flounder, octopus, sea bass and sea robin. If Hirose’s approach seems unusual, it’s probably because he didn’t work his way up through the ranks like most sushi chefs do: already an expert in other forms of Japanese cuisine, he did a brief apprenticeship and then went straight in at the deep end. Omakase courses start from ¥8,000 (plus tax) if you just want nigiri sushi, and from ¥12,000 (plus tax) with all the trimmings. 2F, 4-5-8 Nishi-Azabu, Minato (Hiroo Station). 03 5466 2377. 6pm-11pm, closed Wed. Chef Ryuji Hirose

P this lease pr e mag azin sent e to get all fo od a nd d rink orde rs!

10 % O

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Eating & Drinking

fastidiously prepared desserts. An Omakase course costs ¥19,000. B1F SA Bldg, 15-3 Ichibancho, Chiyoda (Hanzomon Station). 03 3239 8363. 6pm-10.30pm (last entry), closed Mon.

Special: rich tuna belly served on a charcoal-broiled roll with flakes of truffle. Full courses run from ¥12,000 to ¥18,000, though there’s a cheaper ¥8,000 course available on Sundays, when Hayakawa lets his assistant take charge for the night. 5F, 2-2-2 Ebisu-Minami, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 03 6412 7783. www.sushi-hayakawa.com. Daily 6pm-11pm (last entry).

Eating & Drinking

THE ART OF

coffee ‘Third wave’ coffee has brought us better quality beans, highly skilled brewers and the joy of latte art. Ili Saarinen drops in at five of Tokyo’s top artisanal coffee shops

e say Tokyo, you say… good coffee? Once considered a virtual dark roast wasteland, our metropolis has seen the so-called ‘third wave’ coffee movement sweep over the city with force since 2010 or so, with dozens of excellent speciality shops opening and the recognition of coffee as a craft spreading like wildfire. Singleorigin beans are widely available, small roasters are gaining ground, and more and more café owners are getting used to manoeuvring hightech espresso machines. Follow us on a tour of some of the city’s finest joints, including one golden oldie that tenaciously kept the flag flying for good coffee long before anyone had even thought it could become trendy. CAFÉ DE L’AMBRE A true Ginza classic, Café de l’Ambre has been in business since 1948 and exudes a quirky retro vibe: the coffee is prepared behind a wide bar counter, manned by three or

more focused-looking craftsmen, the lighting is pleasantly subtle, and the worn-down interior makes for a striking contrast with the glittering boutiques along nearby Chuo-dori. Centenarian owner Ichiro Sekiguchi is no longer seen around the shop much but his attention to detail lives on, along with the vintage bean selection that includes a batch harvested in Colombia way back in 1954. For a less extreme but equally aromatic alternative, try the soft Tanzanian dark roast. Accurate Englishlanguage menus are available. 8-1015 Ginza, Chuo (Shinbashi Station). 12pm-10pm Mon-Sat, 12pm-7pm Sun & hols. 03 3571 1551. h6.dion. ne.jp/~lambre/ (Japanese only). AMAMERIA ESPRESSO Located on the ground floor of an apartment building close to MusashiKoyama Station, some way off the beaten track, certified cupping judge Toshiaki Ishii’s stylish neighbourhood shop merits a trip all by itself. Choose

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from around half a dozen singleorigin beans for your AeroPressed cup of Joe – far from a vanity stunt, the method actually does make a difference for bringing out the full aroma of the beans. We also like their impeccably friendly service and the chill atmosphere enjoyed by everyone from local hipsters to senior citizens, as well as the fact that Amameria upholds a strict non-smoking policy. Keep your eyes open for seasonal specials: on our summer visit, the slot was filled by coffee kakigori (shaved ice) topped with fresh orange. 3-6-15 Koyama, Shinagawa (Musashi-Koyama Station). 12pm-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat-Sun & hols. 03 6426 9148. amameria.com (Japanese only).

Obscura’s coffee roasters mean business

OBSCURA COFFEE ROASTERS Operating a roastery and two shops in Sangenjaya, Obscura’s wide variety of outside ventures makes this ambitious company one of the major players on Tokyo’s speciality coffee scene. They’ve been steadily expanding their reach since starting out in 2009, and now deliver beans to top hotels, organise markets for the benefit of the local community and keep the artsy types well caffeinated at Roppongi’s newly opened photography mecca, Ima Concept Store. Their two dedicated shops also serve different purposes: the quiet and homely Cafe, a place that’s designed to kindly nudge heretics onto the righteous path of Joe, stays open

until 11pm and offers only siphon coffee, while the stylish and take-out focused Laboratory targets true believers with espresso and hand-drip varieties. Both places also have small but strictly curated selections of sweets to go with your drink. Cafe: 1-9-16 Sangenjaya, Setagaya (Sangenjaya Station). 12pm-11pm daily, closed on the 3rd Wed of every month. 03 3795 6027. Laboratory: 4-28-9 Taishido, Setagaya. 9am-8pm daily, closed on the 3rd Wed of every month. 03 5432 9809. www.cafe-obscura.com (Japanese only).

Park off at Nozy Coffee

NOZY COFFEE In the words of owner Masataka Nojo, Nozy aims to introduce customers to everything that goes into the craft coffee ‘lifestyle’. Very close attention to detail, a relaxed, brightly lit space and excellent espressos are the main draws at their two-storey shop, located right by Setagaya Park – a brisk 15-minute walk from the nearest station (Sangenjaya). Single-origin beans are the name of the game, with around six varieties available at all times for both sipping and buying. This home base is perfect if you’ve got all afternoon to spend on the wonders of coffee, whereas Nozy’s Roastery, a cooperative venture with restaurant impresarios T.Y. Express, on Cat Street in Harajuku, is the place to go for both a quick sip and a complete urban dining experience. Nozy Coffee: 2-297 Shimouma, Setagaya

Craft coffee at Coutume

(Sangenjaya Station). 11am-7pm daily. 03 5787 8748. www.nozycoffee. jp (Japanese only). The Roastery: 5-17-13 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku Station). 8am-8pm daily. 03 6450 5755. www.tyharborbrewing.co.jp/ en/roastery/. COUTUME After kicking off something of a revolution in the Paris coffee scene a couple of years ago, Coutume landed in Tokyo in April 2014 and has since wowed Aoyamans with beans imported directly from a handful of farmers and top-shelf brews perfected with a handsome

Steampunk machine. Their Tokyo outpost’s minimalist interior, Nordic designer tableware and available reading materials are as trendy as the clientele, but the atmosphere remains far from stuffy: in fact, with nonchalant but friendly staff, some of the best sandwiches in Tokyo and free wi-fi, this is one of the more comfy specialist shops out there. Unlike most of the competition, Coutume also opens early enough for you to get your morning fix before heading to the office. 5-8-10 MinamiAoyama, Minato (Omotesando Station). 7.30am-9.30pm daily. 03 6418 5325. coutume.jp.

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CRAFT BEER TASTE TEST Ili Saarinen bar hops to find the tastiest ale in Tokyo

lthough watery mainstream lagers still dominate the world of Japanese beer, serious brew enthusiasts will no doubt be familiar with the craft movement that’s been growing here at a rapid pace. Nowadays, the island nation’s beers regularly claim top honours at international contests like the World Beer Cup, its breweries are making a name for themselves abroad and, most importantly, more and more people are choosing Session IPAs over Super Dry. Inevitably, this means we’re now spoiled for choice. So, to narrow down the pickings, we chose five representative brews from eastern Japan and put them to the test.

BAIRD (SHIZUOKA): RISING SUN PALE ALE Hailing from Izu, Baird Brewing is one of Japan’s most successful craft breweries. Their flagship creation starts off with a powerful, hoppy aroma with hints of citrus. The taste is surprisingly refreshing and light, making this one eminently drinkable: a basic, no-frills quality ale that goes perfectly with comfort food. Banzai! Where to drink it At the company’s own Taproom in Nakameguro, Harajuku and Yokohama. The Nakameguro branch (2F, 2-1-3 Kamimeguro, Meguro. 03 5768 3025. tinyurl.com/TOTtaproom) serves great izakaya-style food, too. T.Y. HARBOR (TOKYO): WHEAT ALE This orthodox witbier’s notable yeastiness kicks in at the end of the sip and makes for a nice combo with the slight, appealing banana flavour. While clearly an above-average creation, the Wheat Ale unfortunately lacks the wow factor to propel it into the ‘excellent’ category. Should work really nicely on hot days by the sea, though. Where to drink it More than a brewpub, T.Y. Harbor’s American-style Tennozu restaurant (2-1-3 Higashi-Shinagawa, Shinagawa. 03 5479 4555. tinyurl.com/TOTtyharbor) is one of the few places in Tokyo where you can sit outside on the waterfront. FUJIZAKURA HEIGHTS (YAMANASHI): RAUCH The mouthwatering smell of smoked ham is the first thing you’ll feel when being confronted

with Fujizakura’s Rauch, a faithful recreation of Bamberg-style rauchbier. A true rarity in Asia, this moderately smoky brew may shock first-timers but should appeal especially to barbecue-loving carnivores. Where to drink it You can find bottles even at upscale supermarkets, but we recommend heading out to their excellent brewery restaurant Sylvans (6663-1 Funatsu Azakenmarubi, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru, Yamanashi. 0555 83 2236), located near the base of Mt Fuji.

ILI’S TOP PICK

HITACHINO NEST (IBARAKI): WHITE ALE In terms of international name recognition, the Kiuchi Brewery’s Hitachino Nest beers are way ahead of the curve in Japan. The White Ale is their most decorated creation, featuring a smooth mouthfeel, a unique citrus-andcoriander hop flavour and a pleasant aftertaste that leaves you craving more. One of the best performers, even in a field as strong as this, with the freaky owl label supplying the cherry on top. Where to drink it Hitachino Nest bottles are readily available in Tokyo, but serious fans should take the Joban line up to Mito Station and visit Kiuchi Brewery’s True Brew pub (4F Mito Station Excel Minami Bldg, 1-7-31 Miyamachi, Mito, Ibaraki. 029 306 7575. truebrew.cc). TAMA NO MEGUMI (TOKYO): BOTTLE CONDITIONED ALE A vaguely pale ale-like brew with an aroma that might remind you of wild berries, the Ishikawa brewery’s most curious concoction surprises with a sparkly kick and goes down effortlessly. The nice carbonation and peculiar, bitter finish are this beer’s best bits. No masterpiece, but definitely deserves to be sampled. Where to drink it Ride the Chuo line to Tachikawa, transfer to the Ome line and get off at Haijima, walk for 15 minutes or so and you’ll be at the brewery (1 Kumagawa, Fussa, Tokyo. www.tamajiman. com/english). Pair your beer with a pizza or some sausages at the Fussa no Birugoya restaurant (042 553 0171). For more craft beer pubs and beer gardens, go to timeout.com/tokyo

42 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

BACKGROUND IMAGE: SIRO46/PIXTA

Eating & Drinking

Shopping & Style Need a new look? Shopping & Style

As they say, a haircut can change your life. Make sure you get one that changes it for the better at these top Tokyo salons. Words Reiko Kuwabara

TWIGGY YOUR SANCTUARY BEST FOR… Catwalk-ready hair. Founded by Miho Matsuura, famous for styling model and ‘Wolverine’ star Tao Okamoto’s 2009 bowl cut, the salon was recently nominated by ‘Harper’s Bazaar’ as one of the Best Salons in the World 2014. Taking a lifestyle approach to beauty, the salon offers personalised services with a contemporary edge. Hair colourists are also on hand, offering a variety of techniques and the latest colours. The vibe Stylish pampering sanctuary. The specialism Perfect finish on every visit. The extras Head-to-toe treatments for hair, make-up and nails, as well as a juice bar, personal training sessions, head spa, reflexology and facial/body treatments. You can also have the salon experience at home by picking up original organic products from their own range, Yumedreaming Epicurean, available in stores. We highly recommend the Hair Tonic, which cools the scalp and helps improve the roots. Price range Cut from ¥7,000. For reservation Via phone or email. Key looks for A/W 14/15 Black or dark-coloured hairstyles with lots of layers or the ’90s layered bob. 3-35-7-001 Jingumae, Shibuya (Gaienmae Station). 03 6413 1590. www.twiggy.co.jp. 44 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

BLOC BEST FOR… Colour and cool cuts. Hiding in the backstreets of Shibuya, this three-storey salon features different themes on each floor. As for clientele, you’ll be mixing with street-style icons and models who visit regularly to maintain their trendy tresses. The hairstylists are fearsomely fashionable but also friendly and cater to different hair types. The vibe Like an artist’s studio with sinks. The specialism On-trend looks you’ll want to show off around Shibuya and Harajuku. The extras Extensions and original hair-care range Denphalae, which consists of no-rinse treatments, super-hard wax, silicone-free shampoo and treatment made of collagen, hyaluronic acid and ceramide. Price range Colour from ¥7,500. For reservation Via phone. Key looks for A/W 14/15 Inventive hair-colouring mixing highlights and ombre techniques. 1-5-19 Jinnan, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03-5784-3228. bloc.co.jp.

BARBERS FOR BOYS And now for something more traditional

RIDICULE HAIRSTYLE AND BARBER SHOP TAKEDA: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

SHISEIDO THE GINZA BEST FOR… Updos and beauty expertise. Always up to date with the latest trends and techniques, the salon makes full use of beauty giant Shiseido’s quality products and expertise so as to cater to all needs. Based on the concept of ‘the place to find the undiscovered you’, they offer a variety of extra services, not to mention some of the best skincare and cosmetics we’ve had the pleasure of trying. English and Chinese-speaking staff are available at the Beauty Marché. The vibe Polished, chic and mega-sized hair. The specialism The Beauty Boost Bar offers chic hairstyling and make-up sessions by professional artists. Catering to different hair types, they carefully consider which products and blow-dry techniques to use for each customer. The extras Cosmetics section (Beauty Marché), counselling beauty salon, beauty lessons (Personal Beauty Session), skin analysis (Bihada Lounge), photo sessions (Shiseido Photo Studio) and charged powder room (Dressing Table). Price range Beauty Boost Bar from ¥4,000 (hairdo) and ¥5,000 (make-up). For reservation Via phone. Key looks for A/W 14/15 Vivid lips, voluminous lashes and moderate-colour eyeshadow. 7-8-10 Ginza,Chuo (Ginza Station).03-3571-7735.stg.shiseido.co.jp.

Barbershop King Located in the residential area near Setagaya Park, this barber takes a more casual approach to traditional haircuts and shaves. Celebrating its 15th anniversary this year, the store rocks a rockabilly vibe with motorbikes, pomade, bowling shirts and other retro influences. Prices are affordable too, with the cut-and-shave combo starting from ¥4,800. 1-39-8 Shimouma, Setagaya. 03 3422 9951. www.barbershopking.com. For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 45

Shopping & Style

RIDICULE BEST FOR… Effortless chic and perfectionist finishing. A mixed-cultural space influenced by La Ruche (‘The Beehive’), an artist’s residence in Paris, and beehive hexagonal motifs. Traditional Japanese references are also seen in the shoji-like screens and retro furnishings. The owner lived in Paris for many years and has worked with various artists and celebrities including Jane Birkin. The vibe Secret, speakeasy-style house. The specialism Helping to enhance your natural beauty with eco-friendly products. The extras Head spa, make-up, cute charms and accessories. Price range Cut from ¥6,000. For reservation If you’re contacting them in English, then email them via www.facebook.com/salonRidicule or the enquiry form at ridicule.jp. Key looks for A/W 14/15 Whatever you want them to be – they encourage you to guide them in styling your hair how you like it. (Take along a photo as their English is limited.) 3-31-13 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku Station). 03-3478-7332. ridicule.jp.

Barber Shop Takeda Never mind that it’s hidden far out in the western suburbs: Barber Shop Takeda is the salon of choice for discerning (and mostly bearded) Tokyoites looking for a close shave in distinctly old-school surroundings. On the other hand, if it’s one of those spiky anime hairstyles you want, go elsewhere – the cheerful Mr Takeda is all about keeping it real, from the techniques and banter down to the vintage tools he so skilfully utilises. Here’s a little preview of what to expect… Order the ‘gentlemen’s regular’, and you’ll first be treated to a tender noggin wash. Then comes the haircut, which displays the best of Takeda’s craftsmanship: shaver use is kept at a minimum, with scissors instead employed even for the finest trimming. For the final touches, any extra hairs are taken out with a straight razor, resulting in a pleasant, smooth feel around the neck and ears. Any tension you might have felt is then blown away with an efficient shoulder massage. Last up is the beard shave, which makes for a spa-level experience in itself: you’ll hardly feel the razor on your skin, but the result speaks for itself. Finally, the steaming hot towels used to warm your chin are simply addictive. After one visit to Takeda’s, going back to your neighbourhood barber will definitely feel like a letdown. 2-31-16 Kikunodai, Chofu. 042 483 1145. barber1969.com. – Reviewed by Ili Saarinen

Art & Culture The art trail From Nakano to Jimbocho, here’s our guide for art collectors in Tokyo – even if you’re on a budget. Words Matt Schley

A Art & Culture

rt enthusiast? You’ve come to the right city. From classic ukiyo-e woodblock prints to high-brow modern art to imports from around the world, Tokyo’s got something for everyone. If you’re in town with an eye to add something to your collection, give these art spaces a look. HARA SHOBO BEST FOR Ukiyo-e Literally meaning ‘pictures of the floating world’, ukiyo-e became especially popular in the Edo period (1603-1868), when a rising merchant class found themselves able to afford art for the first time. Though some of the most iconic ukiyo-e depict landscapes, ghosts and Kabuki actors, not all ukiyo-e were so high-minded: there’s even a sexually explicit subgenre called shunga. Whatever type of ukiyo-e you’re on the hunt for, check out Hara Shobo, just outside Jimbocho Station. In business for over 80 years, Hara Shobo carries a wide stock of ukiyo-e prints that range from landscapes to kimono-clad women to sumo wrestlers. Prices run a wide range, too, from as low as ¥8,000 up to ¥300,000, depending on the artist and subject. If you’re on a real budget, pick up their catalogue: printed in full colour, it’s almost like the real thing. Almost. 2-3 Kanda Jimbocho, Chiyoda. 03 5212 7801. www.harashobo.com. Also try Ohya Shobo. tinyurl.com/TOTohya. YUFUKU BEST FOR Ceramics and lacquerware The history of Japan’s ceramics stretches all the way back to the Neolithic period. Throughout the centuries, technologies like the anagama kiln and potter’s wheel made their way to Japan via China and Korea and were incorporated into the Japanese style. Perhaps the most typically Japanese form of ceramics are the

Komiyama Shoten is ‘four floors of incredibleness’

utensils used in the art of the tea ceremony. Employing pottery crafted by hand rather than on a potter’s wheel, tea ceremonies run on the notion of wabi-sabi, embracing the uniqueness in the utensils’ imperfections. Also embracing uniqueness in ceramics is Yufuku, a gallery located in Aoyama. Founded in 1993, Yufuku displays contemporary ceramics, metalwork, glass and lacquerware from Japan and abroad that are ‘often devoid of functionality, and stand alone for art’s sake’. Recent exhibitions have included porcelain by Yoko Imada, wood-fired stoneware by Kosei Masudaya and stoneware by Keizo Sugitani. Yufuku also frequently takes the show on the road, participating in art fairs in cities like London, Singapore and New York. So if that nice piece of stoneware is a bit too heavy to lug home, you can just wait for them to come to you. 1F Annecy Aoyama, 2-6-12 Minami-Aoyama, Minato. 03 5411 2900. yufuku.net. Also try Oz Zingaro (oz-zingaro. jp) and London Gallery (www. londongallery.co.jp).

46 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Hara Shobo is best for ukiyo-e artworks

Yufuku deals in ceramics and lacquerware

Head to Walls Tokyo for contemporary, and Taco Ché (below) for subculture

WALLS TOKYO AND TACO CHE: MATT SCHLEY

KOMIYAMA SHOTEN BEST FOR Photography Tokyo is a veritable paradise for photography fans, with literally dozens of galleries and bookstores across the city displaying and stocking works by Daido Moriyama, Nobuyoshi Araki, Shomei Tomatsu and other Japanese greats. It’s almost impossible to choose one shop to recommend, but we eventually settled on Komiyama Shoten, a Jimbocho bookstore that Japanese photography expert John Sypal calls ‘four floors of incredibleness’. Komiyama stocks photobooks by all the giants of Japanese photography as well as plenty of Western photography. Primarily but not exclusively a photo shop, Komiyama also carries books on fashion, design, Japanese history and art. Things get progressively rarer and more expensive as you ascend up to Komiyama’s top floor. If anyone reading this is looking to get me a birthday present, the ¥216,000 original copy of Daido Moriyama’s ‘Farewell Photography’ will do quite nicely, thanks. 1-7

WALLS TOKYO AND GALLERY 360° BEST FOR Contemporary Of course, Japanese art ain’t all ancient woodblock prints and ceramics. Tokyo’s jam-packed with modern artists working across more media than one can count. Set up last year, Walls Tokyo is one of Tokyo’s newest shops for discovering and purchasing modern art from Japan and abroad. Founded with the idea of bringing art closer to people, Walls Tokyo attempts to sell art at a price first-time buyers can afford. With guest curation from notables like Party founder Masashi Kawamura and FTC’s Kent Uyehara, Walls Tokyo’s collection contains works by Western artists like Banksy, Warhol and Damien Hirst plus Japanese artists like Yayoi Kusama, Takashi Murakami and Yoshitomo Nara. Aside from maintaining a well-stocked and highly searchable online catalogue, Walls also has a physical gallery a short walk from Hakusan Station. While Walls deals exclusively in things you can hang on your, erm, wall, Gallery 360° displays work by contemporary artists dealing in all three dimensions. Located just outside Omotesando Station, Gallery 360° has been in business since

1982 and has hosted exhibitions by artists like Sasaki, who draws lines representing heartbeats, pop artist Suzy Amakane, and Yoko Ono (perhaps you’ve heard of her). In addition to gallerying, Gallery 360° stocks prints, books and posters and other items from Japanese and Western artists. Walls Tokyo: 2-14-18 Hakusan, Bunkyo. 03 6240 0790. www. walls-tokyo.com. Gallery 360°: 2F, 5-127 Minami-Aoyama, Minato. 03 3406 5823. www.360.co.jp. Also try 3331 Arts Chiyoda (tinyurl.com/ TOTchiyoda) and MoMA Design Store (tinyurl. com/TOTmoma-store). TACO CHÉ BEST FOR Subculture Long considered the lowest of the low-brow, anime and manga are finally getting their due as proper art forms. Part of that recognition is due to young, high-brow artists who’ve grown up devouring anime and incorporated it into their works (see our spring 2014 issue for an in-depth look at this phenomenon). You can get your hands on some of this anime-inspired art at Taco Ché. Located in none other than the Nakano Broadway shopping mall,

a weird and wonderful mecca of Japanese subculture, Taco Ché is a store devoted to underground art, books and posters, most of which are self-published, rare or limitedrun. Not content to just sell art, Taco Ché frequently crams exhibitions into its limited space, hosting exhibitions and autograph sessions by artists like the depraved, ukiyo-e-inspired Toshio Saeki, the mannequin-obsessed Eimi, and the bold, neon-colored anime stylings of Mirai. 3F Nakano Broadway, 5-52-15 Nakano, Nakano. 03 5343 3010. tacoche. com (Japanese only). Also try Pixiv Zingaro (pixiv-zingaro.jp) and Gallery of Fantastic Art (gofa.co.jp).

For more art museums, galleries and stores, go to timeout.com/tokyo

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 47

Art & Culture

Kanda Jimbocho, Chiyoda. 03 3291 0495. www.book-komiyama.co.jp. Also try Sokyusha (www. sokyusha.com, Japanese only).

Art & Culture

Taking kyogen into the future

nce he was a clever Yin Yang Master, skilled in fortunetelling and divination (in the film ‘Onmyoji’). Another time, he was a beloved blockhead, despite displaying no wisdom, virtue or courage (‘The Floating Castle’). Mansai Nomura shows talent in a variety of acting styles, but at his core is kyogen. Established in the 14th century and recognised by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage, kyogen is a traditional form of Japanese comic theatre and the oldest continually practised form of theatre in existence. Mansai studied under his grandfather, the late Manzo Nomura VI, and his father, Mansaku Nomura. Debuting at the age of three, he is an actor who shoulders the history of kyogen. The style: yesterday and today Today’s kyogen is not a perfect replica of what existed long ago, but the theatre does seek to retain certain characteristics. ‘As with the words “thou” and “thy” from Shakespeare’s time, there are words in kyogen that we don’t use nowadays, along with linguistic devices such as rhyming,’ says Mansai. ‘As with Shakespeare’s iambic pentameter, kyogen has a unique elocation technique that requires a classic style. We are particular about maintaining the formal beauty of the interesting sounds and flow of original Japanese.’ Realising that these traditions may make kyogen less accessible to modern audiences, Mansai and his fellow actors are concerned with how to appeal to foreigners and young people unfamiliar with ancient

Japanese. Mansai makes every effort to aid the proliferation and penetration of kyogen by introducing it to younger audiences. He has appeared on the children’s TV show, ‘Nihongo de Asobo’ (‘Let’s Play in Japanese’), where he demonstrated the appeal of kyogen. And at the Setagaya Public Theatre, where he holds the title of artistic director, he promoted a Modern Noh Collection series that aimed to fuse classical noh with modern theatre. ‘[The high arts] must not be too inaccessible, but we must also not pander. We need to preserve a sense of tension with the audience,’ he explains. ‘Classics should not be modernised purely to be easily understood; we must treasure their aesthetic standards, while understanding that they are ancient arts that still connect to the present.’

I have been using “I am the local...” instead,’ says Mansai. Words aside, though, ‘the character who appears on stage [in this opening scene] is human, like everyone, and symbolises you, the audience. In this way, it is structured like a simple mirror.’ Herein lies one reason for kyogen’s survival over the years – the fact that it’s not complicated in structure. ‘It is spoken, so it is mostly understandable – even for foreigners. If you read about the play in advance, you can grasp the meaning while watching based on context.’ It also has strong comedic elements. ‘Laughter connects people, something that’s keenly felt during our overseas performances,’ says Mansai. That said, Mansai was taught by his father that, while kyogen is comedy, it should be – in this order – ‘beautiful, interesting, and comical’.

We need to preserve a sense of tension with the audience

The structure: simple and comedic The famous kyogen opening line goes like this: ‘Kono atari no mono degozaru.’ ‘In English, this is often translated as “I am the resident of this house”, but “kono atari” has a broader meaning, so recently

Mansai on stage

48 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

The actors: youth vs experience With its 600-year history, kyogen’s conventions run deep. ‘That the theatre is open not just to young actors but to veterans as well is a very

Japanese aspect of kyogen. For a young person, formalities may be formalities and nothing more. However, with older actors, we may feel a significant “spirit” in the slowness of their movements. In that way, they reflect the value of their life experience. To put it in poetic terms, it’s wonderful to see the cherry blossoms in full bloom, but there is also deep meaning in going to a zen temple and seeing a withered old tree with just one or two blossoms.’

WHAT’S NEXT FOR MANSAI’S KYOGEN This autumn Mansai serves as general advisor to the Tokyo Art Meeting 5 held as part of the Tokyo Culture Creation Project and is performing the kyogen play ‘Sambaso’ along with the 1928 ballet ‘Boléro’ in collaboration with media artist Shiro Takatani. ‘It is a clash between the inspired high art (“Sambaso”) and contemporary art,’ he says. ‘Since this is the most sacred piece of kyogen, we will perform it as is, and fight against, merge with, or fall apart from Takatani’s art. Mansai decided to add a performance of Maurice Ravel's ‘Boléro’ after his father pointed out the similarity in structure between the ballet and ‘Sambaso’. ‘They are similar in that they have many repetitions and they crescendo in an upward spiral. I think the aspects of requiem and prayer to the earth in both of these works are very important in today’s world.’ Watch ‘Sambaso’ on December 3 and ‘Boléro’ on December 17 at the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo (www.mot-artmuseum.jp/eng).

MANSAI NOMURA MAIN IMAGE: KISA TOYOSHIMA; NAWANAI: SHINJI MASAKAWA

Art & Culture

How to keep an ancient form of theatre relevant today? One of Japan’s most illustrious kyogen actors Mansai Nomura attempts to answer this burning question. Interview Ayako Takahashi

Graphic dancers You may have seen their mesmerising dance with light, ‘Pleiades’, as earlier this year it went viral with 4,45 million views. Cal Widdall catches up with the Japanese dance phenoms Enra during their world tour

In sync Enra’s performers time their moves perfectly with motion graphics

He eventually concluded that combining his visual imagery with live performances would enable him to create something unique, and began searching for performers online. All of those who passed the audition stage were hired and Enra took off from there. The group now consists of Hanabusa and six performers with a diverse range of talents: Maki Yokoyama, rhythmic gymnast and contemporary dancer; Yusaku Mochizuki, juggler; Kazunori Ishide, street dancer; Tsuyoshi Kaseda, Chinese martial artist; Saya Watatani, ballet and contemporary dancer; and Tachun, animation dancer. Each one offers something different, a versatility that allows Hanabusa a large degree of freedom during his creative process. His aim with each new show is to combine the computer-generated visuals with the varied skills of his group to produce

No artistic category captures what they do

The creation of something new Like most original ideas, the inspiration for Enra was born out of necessity. In 2012, their director and founder, Nobuyuki Hanabusa, was working as a motion-graphics artist and required a way of displaying his work live in front of large audiences. Dancers with light ‘Pleiades’

something that simply can’t be expressed with one of those aspects alone. This can be a difficult process, however, as the group tells me: ‘The most difficult thing is, above all, synchronising the performances with the light projections and other visuals. Position, height, angle – all of these aspects have to be considered in a way that’s not really necessary in standard performances.’ It takes around two months for the group to put together a new show, and even once they’ve completed the choreography they continue to practise it for four hours each day. World tour The group is currently touring the globe and are enjoying their place on the international stage. They say the main difference they’ve noticed between performing in other countries versus in Japan is the level of excitement shown by the audience. ‘Getting applauded for a successful move, even in the middle of a performance, feels really nice. Japanese audiences tend to be a little more shy.’ Enra’s global success means they’ll be on an international tour of corporate and private events for the rest of the year, with shows in places as widespread as the UK, Australia, Singapore, America and Switzerland. This means that Tokyoites will unfortunately have to wait until next year to see them on stage. For more info, visit enra.jp.

Bringing the Olympics home

Enra first leapt and twirled to international attention when they performed ‘Fuma-kai’ in front of the International Olympics Committee as part of Tokyo’s winning 2020 Olympics bid last year. Whereas their previous piece, ‘Primitive’, focused on organisms, microbes and viruses, symbolising the things in life that are seemingly meaningless, ‘Fuma-kai’ followed a more simple theme – bringing the Olympic rings to Japan. The production begins with five ninjas jumping a castle wall then splitting up to complete various challenges. The first swirls a ribbon which appears to control and then imprison large metallic spheres before switching to a bow and firing bolts of flame that explode on impact. Another swims through an underwater tunnel, stopping momentarily to avoid being crushed by sliding blocks, then a juggling ninja uses a diabolo to destroy two gigantic cubes, flurries of light and sparks perfectly trailing his axle as it oscillates and swoops across the stage. Watch the performance here: tinyurl.com/TOTfuma-kai.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 49

Art & Culture

he originality of Enra is evident alone in how difficult it is to describe what exactly they are. Their shows consist of live human performances – including dance, juggling and martial arts – perfectly synchronised with projection mapping, music and sound effects in order to tell one complete story. The group members agree that there aren’t any artistic categories that accurately capture what they do, and that their name perhaps defines them better than any particular genre. In Japanese folklore, ‘Enenra’ is a shape-shifting monster composed of smoke and vapour, adapting to new forms in the same way that the group’s eclectic performances can be customised and shaped depending on their artistic direction and audience responses. They joke that maybe one day an entirely new genre could be called ‘enra’.

Essential events

Art & Culture

Gawk at the Giant Flying Illustration Tower, discover Hokusai’s allure, and make your own film in three hours

Tokyo Designers Week Meiji Jingu Gaien and other venues, Oct 25-Nov 3 Japan’s biggest design trade show again unfurls at a custom-built venue in Meiji Jingu Gaien park, with a range of tie-up events at shops, cafés and galleries in the surrounding Aoyama area and other locations in Tokyo. This year’s edition will run for ten days and include everything from a ‘Creative Life’ exhibition and the four-part Asia Awards for design, art, music and fashion, to a robot show and plenty of other stuff to keep the kids distracted. 2-3 Kasumigaoka, , Shinjuku. www.tdwa.com/en. 11am-9pm (Nov 3 until 8pm).

‘Hokusai from the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston’ The Ueno Royal Museum, until Nov 9 Discover the allure of famed ukiyo-e artist Hokusai through items and works housed at the US’s Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, which is known for its world-class collection of Japanese art. Under the supervision of Seiji Nagata, preeminent expert on Hokusai research, approximately 140 rare and beautiful items have been selected for this exhibition from among the museum’s most valued pieces. The first section, titled ‘A journey through 70 years

of ukiyo-e prints with rare items and distinguished items’, handles around 110 ukiyo-e prints produced during Hokusai’s artistic career of 70 years. In addition to his symbolic works, many of his rare, unknown works are on display too. The second section, titled ‘Charming surimonos and rare books’, includes 19 surimonos (a genre of woodblock printing) and seven books printed with woodblocks. The third section, titled ‘Original

50 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

drawings and hanshita-e: works by father and daughter’, displays six of Hokusai’s works and one original (non-woodblock) drawing by his daughter, Oi. While broadly covering Hokusai’s work, the exhibit presents many precious items and materials, offering a rare opportunity to gain a deeper understanding of Hokusai’s art. 1-2 Ueno-Koen, Taito. 03 3833 4191. ukiyoe.exhn.jp/en. 10am-5pm SatThu, 10am-8pm Fri.

Tokyo Creative Weeks Various venues, until Nov 16 Taking place over a period of seven weeks from September to November, Tokyo Creative Weeks will add even more colour to the already busy Tokyo autumn with a wide variety of events taking place all over the city. You’ll find art spreading into galleries, museums, theatres, shopping malls and even fish markets, with the selection drawing from Japan’s traditional culture, modern art and everything in between. tinyurl.com/ tokyo-creative-weeks ‘Pixiv Matsuri’ Roppongi Hills Tokyo City View, Oct 25-Nov 24 Illustration community site Pixiv was launched seven years ago with the idea of being ‘a place where drawing becomes more enjoyable’ and has since expanded into a massive platform covering 220 countries and nine languages. In the run-up to this event, Pixiv held an illustration competition

‘TOMOO GOKITA THE GREAT CIRCUS’: ‘NEW SAD’, 2014. ACRYLIC GOUACHE ON CANVAS. 80.3CM X 80.3CM; ‘HOKUSAI FROM THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, BOSTON’: HOKUSAI THE GREAT WAVE OFF THE COAST OF KANAGAWA (KANAGAWA OKI NAMIURA), FROM THE SERIES THIRTY-SIX VIEWS OF MOUNT FUJI (FUGAKU SANJŪROKKEI), ABOUT 1830-34, WILLIAM STURGIS BIGELOW COLLECTION, 11.17652, PHOTOGRAPH © 2014 MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, BOSTON. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

‘TOMOO GOKITA THE GREAT CIRCUS’

Art & Culture

‘AROUND MICHAEL GONDRY’S WORLD’

embodiments of ‘Thoughts Beyond Architecture’. Other events planned during the exhibition run include a discussion with Terunobu Fujimori, an architect known for his treehouse tea houses, and a performance by actor and improvisational dancer Min Tanaka. 3-7-6 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 3402 3001. www.watarium.co.jp. 11am-7pm (Wed till 9pm).

‘AROUND MICHEL GONDRY’S WORLD’: BERNARD BISSON/JDD/SIPA, 2011, PARIS, COURTESY: HOME MOVIE FACTORY ASSOCIATION; ‘SHINGEKI NO KYOJIN-TEN’: © 諫山創・講談社／「進撃の巨人展」製作委員会

‘Tomoo Gokita The Great Circus’ Kawamura Memorial DIC Museum of Art, until Dec 24 This is a solo exhibition showing the work of Japanese graphic artist Tomoo Gokita, who’s recently been receiving attention in the international world of contemporary culture and art. This show will feature a series of previously unseen sketches and large-scale works that are being exhibited in Japan for the first time. The exhibition covers his earliest works to his current cult-like pieces, and marks the first time he has had a solo show in an art museum. 631 Sakado, Sakura, Chiba. 0120 498 130. kawamura-museum.dic.co.jp. 9.30am-5pm (no admission after 4.30pm), closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a holiday). ‘Around Michel Gondry’s World’ Museum of Contemporary Art, Tokyo, until Jan 4, 2015 Michel Gondry’s charming 2004 film ‘Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind’ catapulted the French director into the global spotlight, earning him an Oscar and also drawing more attention to his innovative music-video and art projects. Gondry’s quirky, wondrously nerdy worldview will now be on display at this exhibit, which consists of two separate ‘packages’. Firstly, the ‘Home Movie Factory’ is where you can join a group of around 10 other visitors

to plan and shoot your very own film in just three hours. No acting or filmography experience is required, and an instructor will be on hand to guide you in the right direction on Wednesdays, Saturdays, Sundays and holidays. Your group will be given one DVD of your masterpiece, and you’ll have the chance to get together with your film crew later on to watch the finished product. Secondly, ‘Around the World in 19 Videos’ is an installation made up of 19 Gondry-directed music videos, exhibiting his inventive visual style and technique of manipulating cinematic reality. Finally, the exhibition also features displays of props and drawings used in this mise-en-scène wizard’s movies. 4-1-1 Miyoshi, Koto. 03 5245 4111. www.mot-art-museum.jp/eng/. 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. ‘Arata Isozaki 12×5=60’ Watari-Um, until Jan 12, 2015 An exhibition focusing on the ‘Thoughts Beyond Architecture’ of Arata Isozaki, one of Japan’s bestknown architects. Isozaki has also worked in other fields, however, and focuses here on these nonarchitectural topics. The exhibition centres on a 1:1 scale model of his study in Karuizawa, known as the ‘TreeHouse’. Also on display are sketches from his travels and projects from around the world, including his 1978 exhibition ‘MA: SpaceTime’, which was a major hit across Europe; and the Taro Okamoto exhibition for which he was the venue designer. Video works by the likes of Toshio Matsumoto and Takahiko Iimura are also introduced as

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Art & Culture

and this matsuri will display all the entries, along with works of over 500 other artists, as a moving GIF on a massive tower dubbed the Giant Flying Illustration Tower. All kinds of events have been planned for visitors, including cosplay, a drawing café, and creating original figures based on the anthropomorphic character Pixiv-tan. 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato. matsuri.pixiv.net. 10am-11pm.

‘Attack on Titan exhibition’ The Ueno Royal Museum, Nov 28-Jan 25, 2015 Dedicated to ‘Attack on Titan’, the popular manga series with over 40-million copies in print, this exhibition goes far beyond a simple collection of images. It displays key animation drawings and features an impressive full-scale threedimensional model as large as a real Titan, as well as a full-body theatre experience, ‘Ueno: Day of Surrender’, with sound and vibration to heighten the sense of realism. A separate admission fee allows you access to a virtual experience using the latest imaging technology including a head-mounted device that lets you enter the ‘Attack on Titan’ manga world as a member of the corps. It’s a must for fans of the series. Please note that all tickets are sold for a specific date and time, and admission will be limited for certain time slots, so check the details in advance. 1-2 Ueno-Koen, Taito. 03 3833 4191. www.ueno-mori.org, www.kyojinten. jp (Japanese only). 10am-5pm daily (Sat, Sun & hols until 8pm).

Music

BIG IN

(and out of)

JAPAN

Hot on the heels of Kyary Pamyu Pamyu’s kooky J-pop, Babymetal’s ‘kawaii metal’ has cracked the global music market. James Hadfield explores the latest wave of local bands who’ve managed to break through to the other side

yu Sakamoto was the first, and the last. It was 1963, the year before Tokyo hosted the Summer Olympics, when the pearlytoothed crooner rocketed to the top of the US Billboard Hot 100 singles chart with his toe-tapping ditty ‘Ue o Muite Aruko’, better known to Western audiences as ‘Sukiyaki’. To this day, he’s still the only Japanese artist to have scored a number one hit in the US. So when a trio of Japanese highschool girls reached number 187 on the Billboard 200 album chart earlier this year, it may not have seemed quite so spectacular an achievement. But the recent success of Babymetal is, in fact, pretty unusual. Consider this: in the past 30 years, only five other Japanese artists have managed to crack the Billboard 200 – and one of them was ghastly New Age cheeseball Kitaro. That’s not to say that other Japanese musicians are complete unknowns; rather, as Spinal

Tap’s manager might have put it, their appeal is ‘more selective’. Mainstream J-pop acts can always rely on a solid following in East and Southeast Asian countries, where listeners are more attuned to the

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melodies and styles favoured by Japan’s hit makers. But in Europe or America, most Japanese music fails to find an audience unless it’s appealing to a specific niche – or unless it’s very, very odd.

Babymetal ticks both boxes, which might explain why they’ve garnered more international media buzz in the past year than the rest of the J-pop industry combined. Their unlikely blend of sugary idol pop and moshpitready heavy metal was enough to guarantee them instant internet meme status. However, when it became clear that the group’s live support band could shred like Slayer – and that their eponymous debut supplied some of the most joyously absurd headbanger anthems since Andrew WK’s ‘I Get Wet’ – even the most cynical observers started to come around. Of course, it also helps that Babymetal aren’t megastars in Japan – or at least, not yet. The entertainment industry here imposes voracious demands on the more successful pop artists: a hit singer usually spends their working hours caught in an endless whirl of variety shows, TV dramas, films, radio spots, fashion shoots

BABYMETAL: DANA (DISTORTION) YAVIN

Music

Babies on fire The sugary pop-metal girls of Babymetal (also below)

iTunes ready One Ok Rock, Perfume (below) and Kyary Pamyu Pamyu (bottom) have benefited from making their music accessible online

overseas success themselves. Like Kyary, they’ve managed to maintain a coherent visual and sonic signature across multiple albums, with help from a creative team that includes avantgarde choreographer Mikiko Mizuno and programmer/visual artist Daito Manabe, who makes the dazzling projection mapping used in the group’s live shows. Yet for years, Perfume’s rise was stymied by a domestic record label that apparently couldn’t care less about cultivating a worldwide audience. Only when they signed to Universal Music Japan in 2012 did the trio’s music become available on iTunes overseas. The latter point is worth bearing in mind when you consider the relative

Their blend of idol pop and heavy metal guaranteed them instant internet meme status

Music

and commercials. When Kyary Pamyu Pamyu embarked on her fourcontinent Nanda Collection World Tour earlier this year, it was hard to believe that the 21-year-old starlet had managed to find the time for it. Ah, Kyary. In the three years since releasing her debut single, the one-time Harajuku fashion blogger has risen from cult pop sensation to become one of Japan’s hottest commercial properties – all (thankfully) without having to rein in her sartorial excesses. It’s her image as much as her music that helped Kyary gain an international following: every new video feels like plunging deeper down the rabbit hole, into a lysergic, day-glo fantasia populated by singing onions, dancing robots and creepy dudes in animal masks. Her visual aesthetic is so strong and so consistent that you can ‘get’ Kyary without needing to understand what she’s singing about. This consistency extends to the music itself; though there’s been talk online about Kyary collaborating with UK beatmaker Sophie and French pop band Yelle, to date her entire discography has been the work of one man, Yasutaka Nakata. The producer wunderkind, hitherto best known for turning Perfume into one of the country’s biggest – and certainly its most adventurous – J-pop acts, favours a maximalist electro that sounds naggingly familiar to Western ears, while incorporating enough off-kilter twists to keep it from becoming openly derivative. Not coincidentally, Perfume have also enjoyed a measure of

fortunes of Japanese acts in the international market. Try searching for Arashi, AKB48 or Uverworld on iTunes in countries other than Japan – you won’t find them. Major labels here still regard the internet with suspicion, especially the parts of it that don’t speak Japanese (or, ahem, don’t let them charge ludicrously inflated rates for MP3 downloads). By contrast, when Babymetal and Kyary went viral, their albums were ready and waiting in the iTunes Store – and not just the Japanese one. That’s true of a lot of the other Japanese acts who’ve been getting attention in the West, whether it’s electrocore quintet Crossfaith (recently seen playing the main stage at the UK’s Reading and Leeds Festivals), austere motorik-rock trio Nisennenmondai (who appeared at this year’s Sónar in Barcelona) or dubstep producer Goth-Trad (an annual fixture at Croatia’s Outlook Festival). Stadium-sized guitar band One Ok Rock – a highlight of this year’s Vans Warped Tour in the US –

may have been prominently featured in the soundtracks of the ‘Rurouni Kenshin’ movies, but they also had the good sense to make their albums available on iTunes overseas. Because c’mon, how else are you going to build a fanbase? Returning to the example of Babymetal (sorry, they are rather special): the group also had the good fortune to tap into an audience that’s historically been very accepting of bands from Japan. Remember those five other Japanese artists who’ve cracked the Billboard 200 in the past 30 years? Three were bona fide heavy metal groups: ’80s warhorses Loudness and Ezo, and latter-day alt-metal titans Dir En Grey. When it comes to headbanging, apparently, it doesn’t matter what language people speak – as long as they speak the language of rawk. For more music news and events, go to timeout.com/tokyo

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Music

Samurai spirit

Japanese government, she responded, ‘Japan cannot suddenly militarise itself by changing its Constitution. That is a big move, which threatens some countries and will be welcomed by some. It’s all part of the world game.’ Quintessential Ono. When I asked her what it is that allows her to keep alive the hope that despite continuing global wars and injustices, we will eventually achieve a world of peace, love and freedom – as she continues to insist upon on her website – she replied, ‘First of all, you should know that the skirmishes created in small countries do benefit the big countries. Check the weapons where they are made.’ Erm, okay then. Although I get her point – she’s encouraging us to connect the dots that the power establishment prefers us not to – I’m not entirely sure how this reply engenders hope. But that is the cryptic beauty of Yoko Ono, isn’t it? In a final attempt to unravel her inner workings, I followed her to Fuji, hoping to eke out more insights via her performance. On home ground, the reception to her show was in stark contrast to that of the Glastonbury crowd. Both the audience and her backing band – all clad in trademark Lennon-Ono ‘War is Over’ T-shirts – were clearly drinking in the presence of a legend. At one point, Ono said she ‘felt a breeze despite the heat’. Perhaps she was referring to John Lennon’s spirit, to which she is known to make vague allusions. Or, maybe she just felt a breeze. She also said, ‘Sometimes you think you’ve failed at something, and it might not be until much later that you find out you’ve actually succeeded.’ Was this comment about her reunion with her daughter Catch Kyoko, from whom she was up with Yoko estranged for 20 years? Or was it Ono’s latest news or ask her a a small injection of hope into the question via Twitter world’s elusive search for peace, or Facebook at or maybe something else imaginepeace.com altogether? With Ono, one just never knows.

Yoko Ono brushes off that Glastonbury debacle and tells Kimberly Hughes her thoughts on the shift in Japan’s military role

THE MAKING OF YOKO ONO

Musical milestones (and a few other lifetime highlights)

1960s

A pioneer of ‘destruction art’, she sets fire to a painting during a performance. Meets John Lennon and they record ‘Two Virgins’ together, appearing naked on the album cover.

1970s

1980s

1990s

Releases her first solo album, ‘Yoko Ono/Plastic Ono Band’, and three more albums. Completes her 16th experimental film. Loses custody of her daughter Kyoko to ex-husband Anthony Cox after being declared an unfit mother due to drug use. Cox ‘kidnaps’ Kyoko. Sean Lennon is born.

Goes into seclusion after witnessing Lennon’s murder. Releases five albums, including a concept album ‘Starpeace’, intended as a reaction against Ronald Reagan’s ‘Star Wars’ Missile Defence System. Wins a Grammy Award for Album of the Year (‘Double Fantasy’).

Releases six-disc box set ‘Onobox’. Produces offBroadway musical ‘New York Rock’, featuring renditions of her songs. Collaborates with her son Sean and his then-band Ima on the album ‘Rising’, which spawns a world tour. Is reunited with Kyoko, who had grown up in a cult with her father.

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2000s

Her songs get remixed as dance tracks and consistently hit no. 1 on the US dance charts. Releases four albums (up to 2013). Awardwinning 40-year retrospective of her art, ‘Yes Yoko Ono’, is held.

‘TWO VIRGINS’ ALBUM COVER: GETTY; 2000s YOKO ONO: REDFEMS/GETTY

Music

hen Yoko Ono’s Plastic Ono Band played at Glastonbury in July, her performance (read: trademark primal screaming) was ridiculed across the internet as the ‘worst live performance ever’. One particularly cruel netizen said her performance of ‘Don’t Worry, Kyoko’ was ‘worse than Rebecca Black’s song “Friday”’. A few weeks later she and her band would travel to her home country to headline the Red Marquee Stage at Fuji Rock Festival. Would she still be smarting, I wondered? Of course not, I reminded myself: this was the same person who had brushed off a lifetime of snide criticism, not least for being ‘that woman who broke up the Beatles’. I shot off an email to her manager hoping to score an interview, already fantasising about what I would pick her brain on. My interview was granted, and as I suspected, the 81-year-old Tokyo-born artist – who has been an activist for everything from peace to feminism to fracking – clearly couldn’t care less if Glastonbury-goers, or anyone else for that matter, doesn’t get what she is about. Ono was also interviewed on InterFM DJ Peter Barakan’s morning radio show while in Japan. She explained that her screeching is in fact an unveiled challenge to men’s expectations of demure femininity among women, and attributed her ability to withstand years of media and public criticism to her own ‘samurai spirit’. During my own interview, when I asked her thoughts on the recent hawkish moves by the

Promotional feature

ore than two years since its opening, Robot Restaurant, Shinjuku’s unmissable den of glitter, giant mechs and relentless performers, remains wildly popular. Although slight tweaks to the show are made on a regular basis, the essentials have stayed the same: you’re always in for a mind-boggling combo of intense drumming, battles, ballads and some seriously unimpressive snacks. All that is more than enough for most visitors, but being the ever-curious, intrepid ‘local experts’ that we are, we always long for a look behind the scenes. So when we were offered an interview with no less than Robot Restaurant’s CEO and long-time dancing queen, Namie Osawa, we jumped at the chance. This is what she told us about…

BEHIND THE SCENES LOCAL INSIGHT

Ili Saarinen goes backstage to chat with the queen of the robots about what it’s like being part of Tokyo’s craziest show

…HIRING DANCERS ‘We have both experienced dancers and complete newcomers coming in. I didn’t have any dancing background when I started here – what we’re after is, above all, energy and dedication. There is one absolute requirement though: you have to look good in a bikini!’

…TRAINING THE ROBOT GIRLS ‘The girls take dance and taiko drum lessons, in addition to working out at the gym of course – taiko really does wonders for your physique! The most important thing is to give it your all, right from the start – be loud, smile and stay active. Those who can’t keep up don’t last long.’

KISA TOYOSHIMA

…THE SECRET BEHIND THE SUCCESS ‘We’re always trying to improve on everything: more dancers, better performances and robots, a wilder atmosphere. Still, I think the uniqueness factor is our greatest strength. You simply don’t get this kind of thing anywhere else! I also have to give a big shout-out to our staff, as they’re the ones who make all of this possible.’

Bring this issue of Time Out Tokyo magazine with you to Robot Restaurant and get ¥1,000 off your bill.

HOW TO BOOK

There are three daily shows, starting at 6.00pm, 7.40pm and 9.20pm, and the format is changed every few months to keep things fresh. You can reserve your spot a couple of days ahead by calling the number below between 9am and 10pm. The entrance fee is ¥6,000, excluding food and drinks. Shinjuku Robot Bldg, 1-7-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 3200 5500. www.shinjuku-robot.com. 6pm-11pm daily.

…THE TOUGHER SIDE OF THE BIZ ‘With up to four shows a day, we don’t get a lot of time off. You might also notice that some of the girls have bruises and the like – we bump into the drums, get caught in the costumes, get hurt while climbing the robots… you need to stay focused the entire time. The show’s very physical.’

Nightlife

Tokyo’s traditionally ‘members only’ snack bars are slowly changing to a more liberal open-door policy, discovers Annemarie Luck

Phone a friend While Bar C-Shell welcomes walk-ins, many customers are invited by existing clientele

To gain access, you usually have to be invited by someone on the inside

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BAR C-SHELL Underneath the name on the door sign, there are the words: ‘She sells sea shells on the sea shore’. Intrigued to know how this very English tongue twister found its way into the logo of a very Japanese cigar jazz bar, it’s my first question to owner and bartender Makiura. ‘There are a few reasons,’ he says, ‘but mainly I wanted to emulate the way, in Japanese language, we tend to shorten phrases to more simplistic terms. “C-Shell” is my shortened version of the tongue twister. But the “C” is also meant to be a subtle reference to the fact that we sell cigars and cognac.’ I’m immediately taken by the great deal of thought Makiura has put into just the name of his bar, and it’s obvious from studying the décor in this elegant, moodily lit space that he has done the same with every other detail too. While C-Shell doesn’t operate on the ichi-gen concept, Makiura says he

IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

The ‘new’ snack bars

troll around Arakicho by day and you wouldn’t guess that, as night falls, its interconnected lanes and alleyways turn into a kind of secret village of snack bars. I say ‘secret’ for two reasons – because these days Tokyo’s younger generation generally isn’t even aware of the nightlife that’s been going on here since the ’60s; and because gaining access to a snack bar is akin to belonging to an exclusive members’ club – you have to be invited by someone already on the inside. This is referred to as the ‘ichigen-san’ (first-time customer) system and is essentially designed to ensure the existing clientele is not scared off by rowdy bar hoppers, and to maintain the feeling of familiarity you get at this particular kind of establishment. If you’re an ichigen-san, best thing to do is befriend someone in the area and politely ask them to introduce you to their local haunt. Alternatively, if you’re brave enough, you could tentatively open the door and try saying, ‘Gomen kudasai. Sumimasen, ojamashite ii desu ka’ (‘Sorry to disturb you, mind if I join you?’). Traditionally, the snack bar is owned by a ‘mama’ – meaning, a homely woman who is on hand for friendly chatter and to serve you food she prepares behind the bar – or sometimes a ‘master’, the male version. Arakicho currently has about 320 bars and eateries, I’m told by the owner of Bar C-Shell, Yu Makiura, who opened his place five years ago and so is considered a newcomer by the area’s older generation of snack bar owners. It’s a close-knit community here, he says, which has made it difficult for younger people like him to feel accepted. ‘However, in the time I’ve been here, at least 100 venues have changed, so I think the older generation is beginning to realise that we have to move with the times. How else are we going to continue to attract new customers?’ This is also the reason the ichi-gen concept is slowly losing traction with newer bars – in fact, none of the four places we visited operate like this, preferring to readily welcome new customers, including foreigners. And considering the area is just a hopskip from where the 2020 Tokyo Olympics is set to be held, they’re probably onto something.

Deep, Lumiére (right) and Kizuna Bar Lien (far right)

still wants to attract a certain standard of clientele; the type who enjoys slowly sipping on whisky and engaging in a more intellectual sort of conversation. So the door to his bar stays closed, and those who are curious enough to enter are usually quick to mellow out to the soft jazz tinkling in the background. 1F Wind Arakicho, 9 Arakicho, Shinjuku (Yotsuya-Sanchome Station). 03 6380 6226. www.c-shell.jp.7pm-2am, Mon-Sat. Cover charge ¥500.

LUMIÉRE This is the only venue on our list that can truthfully be called a snack bar. The key features that make it so are the fact it’s run by a ‘mama’, Rumi Kazama, to whom you can chat while drinking shochu and eating cheese curry bread and spare ribs; and that there’s karaoke on offer for those who think they’ve got talent. This also means the cover charge is a little heftier at ¥3,000 but, in this case especially, perhaps it’s worth it to get the chance to meet the owner. Kazama, who is a bundle of cute, vivacious energy, was a successful Japanese pro-wrestling star in her younger years and as we sit down to chat on the red velvet chairs that line the bar’s back wall, she points out posters of herself from back in the day. Up on the wall are also two of her pro-wrestling costumes, which she says she sometimes even dons for her customers’ entertainment. She’s only owned Lumiére for a few months and says she hasn’t changed a thing from its original appearance (aside from the wrestling garb, of course). Since it’s hidden on the fourth floor of a nondescript building, this feels more like you’re entering someone’s living Lumiére’s owner was once a pro wrestler

room than walking into a bar off the street. But that’s all part of the snackbar allure. 401 Sankei Lumiere Yotsuya, 4-20 Funamachi, Shinjuku (Yotsuya-Sanchome Station). 03 6273 2575. 7pm-12am, Mon-Sat. Cover charge ¥3,000. KIZUNA BAR LIEN A more modern bar, Kizuna Bar Lien’s liveliness spills out onto the street, drawing in locals and foreigners alike. It’s light, bright and full of banter, with a snazzy, lipstick-red couch in the back corner just next to the karaoke monitor. On the evening we visit, there are two jovial guys at the bar, one of whom tells me in broken English that he often gets called the Japanese Jean Reno (he does actually look like him). He meets his friend at Kizuna Bar Lien every Monday night for an English lesson and the two of them enjoy the fun atmosphere here. Owner Yoshitomo Simohigashi, who used to be a mikoshi (portable shrine) carrier in traditional festivals, tells me he does experience some resistance from the older snack bar owners in the ’hood because ‘things can get quite noisy here’. But he agrees with Makiura, owner of Bar C-Shell, that things are changing – and need to change. At the moment he doesn’t offer food, but plans are afoot to start serving meat-based dishes in the near future. 1F Yamamoto Heights, 4-4 Funamachi, Shinjuku (Yotsuya-Sanchome Station). 03 3359 8345. 7pm-5am, Mon-Sat. Cover charge ¥500.

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Nightlife

DEEP Before buying this casual drinking spot, Isao Samata was a regular customer here. He loved the relaxed, inviting vibe so much that when the previous owner decided to sell, Samata wasted no time in switching from a career in music production to serving drinks and spinning records. Deep operates on the one-coin system, meaning it’s ¥500 for table charge and another ¥500 for any drink – including even the most expensive whisky or gin in the house. There is nothing pretentious about this place and Samata keeps things friendly and upbeat with his easy chatter and extensive vinyl collection that’s stacked above the drinks cabinet. ‘Music connects people,’ he says from behind the decks as he reaches over to fade out the ’70s disco tune that’s playing before handing me a perfectly mixed tonic and lime on ice. As he drops the needle on the next

record, I nod in agreement and say, ‘Ah, I do like a bit of ’90s Lenny Kravitz…’ 1-2 Arakicho, Shinjuku (Yotsuya-Sanchome Station). 03 3351 2393. 8pm-2am, Mon-Sat. Cover charge ¥500.

Sports & Fitness Kings of the ring NJPW’s wrestlers specialise in ‘strong style’. Below: Hiroshi Tanahashi aka ‘Once in a Century Talent’

From bikini babes to muscle monsters and a tank full of piranhas, Japanese pro wrestling has it all. Bunny Bissoux rounds up the main players

hether you are a long-time fan of professional wrestling or just like the idea of seeing some big men grappling in spandex, the Japanese wrestling scene offers an unforgettable experience. While American pro wrestling tends to be more concerned with cartoonish physique and dubious acting skills, the opposite is true in the East where the art of wrestling is still very much alive. Rather than concentrating on sensational soap operaesque ‘storylines’ and well-marketed packages, puroresu (the Japanese pronunciation of pro wrestling) maintains the atmosphere of a more authentic fight. The distinction between the good guys and the bad guys is not so clear-cut; it’s more about respect, fighting spirit and a strong bond between

the fans and the wrestlers. That’s not to say they disappoint in entertainment – puroresu has colourful characters, incredible manoeuvres and a very creative approach to the sport. ‘Strong style’ vs the death match NJPW (New Japan Pro-Wrestling), founded by Antonio Inoki in 1972, is one of the biggest wrestling promotions in the world. While they maintain a Japanese approach, their association with overseas companies and the large number of foreign wrestlers on their registery make them accessible to fans across the globe. Two of their Japanese wrestlers, ‘High Flying Star’ Hiroshi Tanahashi and ‘The Rainmaker’ Kazuchika Okada, are household-name wrestlers of the moment. NJPW is also home to the flamboyant ‘King of Strong Style’ Shinsuke Nakamura – ‘strong style’ is a type of puroresu that incorporates full-force strikes and submission holds, usually employed by wrestlers coming from a martial arts background. BJW (Big Japan Wrestling) is a wellrespected independent promotion which distinguished itself from competition in the late ’90s by specialising in extreme hardcore ‘death matches’. As well as tables, ladders and steel chairs, a death match can include more unusual weapons such as lightbulb tubes, panes of glass, barbed-wire ropes, fire, explosions and, notoriously, once even a tank full

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of piranhas. Death match fighter Jaki ‘Black Angel’ Numazawa’s face paint makes him surprisingly popular with children, and fan favourite Ryuji Ito recently celebrated his 15th year in the business with a match against 144kg Abdullah Kobayashi. BJW is also known for its classic strong-style fighters including Japan’s ‘Muscle Monster’ Daisuke Sekimoto and recently retired Strong Heavyweight Champion Shinya Ishikawa who favoured an English-inspired ‘catch wrestling’ technique. The wrestlers don’t just work hard in the ring – after a match, you can get up close and personal with them at the merchandise table, where they’ll sign autographs, pose for photos and sell you a T-shirt, even if they’re still covered in blood, sweat and broken glass! What the women are up to You couldn’t be more wrong if you think female wrestlers are just playing at the sport. There is strict training and dedication involved, which has led to Japan producing some the best female wrestlers in the world. Popular joshi puro (women’s wrestling) company Ice Ribbon holds regular intimate events at its training dojo (training place) in Saitama. Ice Ribbon is known for recruiting and nurturing original talent, introducing aspiring actresses and models to life in the ring as well as notably debuting very young girls – for example, current favourite Kurumi, now 14, debuted at just nine years old. Thanks to the company’s more feminine image and their recent collaboration with pop idol group hy4_4yh, they have a dedicated otaku (geek)-type fanbase.

IMAGES: © NJPW

Sports & Fitness

Spandex warriors

WHERE TO WATCH PURORESU

Death matches include weapons like barbedwire ropes

If you prefer something a little less girly, Mayumi Ozaki is a legend of women’s wrestling who worked for several promotions in the ’80s and ’90s. Ozaki describes herself as ‘the bad girl you love to hate’ and is one of the few female wrestlers who has competed in hardcore matches. She founded her own company, Oz Academy, in 1998 and, even at 45 years of age, she still wrestles – while apparently also studying towards a qualification as a nursery school assistant. We predict some powerful playtimes on the horizon... A poltergeist wrestler and the champion love doll Some of the independent promotions are introducing new innovations (and possibly insanity) to the world of wrestling. 666 (Triple Six) is a company founded by a wrestling poltergeist named Onryo (his billed weight is 0kg) and ‘The Crazy SKB’, the outrageous frontman of a punk band who also wrestles and is widely known for his love of setting off fireworks during matches. Their gang of oddball talent includes ‘bisexual nymphomaniac’ Shinobu whose finishing move is called ‘Sex Bomber’, and real-life delinquent gang leader turned death match fighter Yukoh Miyamoto. The company, which is especially known for holding a spectacular Halloween show each year, also created a spin-off gay wrestling company, Nichome Pro Wrestling. While puroresu fans are predominantly male, there are specific events aimed at attracting more women to the sport, one of these being a

new group called Bishounen Puroresu (the word ‘bishounen’ roughly translates as ‘handsome male youth’). Their concept? Take a dozen goodlooking young guys and train them to become wrestlers, while letting fans follow their progress through social networking and videos. Several of the trainers and senior members relocated from Osaka pro wrestling, and with the Kansai region being known for its comedy skills, they are clearly more concerned with laughter than skill. Because all women love to laugh, no? DDT (Dramatic Dream Team) has carved out a position for itself as a ‘variety’ wrestling promotion, the emphasis being on entertainment and amusement. They’ve held hardcore wrestling matches on remote beaches, construction sites, busy shopping streets and inside apartment complexes, and their events tend to parody American wrestling combined with ridiculous match rules and stipulations. Their Ironman Heavymetalweight Championship title, for example, has changed hands more than 1,000 times since its introduction in the year 2000. Previous champions include a ladder, a threeyear-old boy, a monkey and one of DDT’s most beloved wrestlers Yoshihiko, who happens to be an inflatable love doll. Don’t be fooled into thinking it add apostrophes all fun and games; what they bring in bizarreness they match in phenomenal talent. DDT’s ‘Golden Star’ Kota Ibushi became the first wrestler in Japan to be co-signed on a dual contact to two companies when top dogs at NJPW snapped him up last year.

The good-looking guys of Bishounen

Korakuen Hall Building Considered by fans to be the centre of Japanese pro wrestling, this is where every puroresu promotion aspires to hold at least one event. Since opening in 1962 it has seen decades of historic matches take place, not only in the realm of wrestling but also in boxing and mixed martial arts. For all its reputable grandeur, it’s actually located on the 5th floor of a rather modest building at Tokyo Dome City. www.tokyo-dome.co.jp/e/hall. Shinkiba 1st Ring This intimate training dojo is a staple venue for a lot of the smaller, independent promotions and provides a chance to get really close to the action. You are guaranteed a great view from any seat – just be ready to move out the way if a wrestler comes flying in your direction! tinyurl.com/TOT1st-ring.

Shinjuku Face Located on the 7th floor above a game centre in Shinjuku’s slightly seedy Kabukicho, this versatile venue operates as a cabaret space and live music hall as well as a mini wrestling arena. Drinks are served inside the room and the two built-in bar counters often get used as the perfect launchpad for a moonsault or a flying crossbody. tinyurl.com/TOTface. Ryogoku Kokugikan The prestigious sumo hall in Sumida is steeped in tradition. Outside of sumo season, it hosts many of the bigger wrestling events, allowing you to experience traditional boxed seating, where your seat is a segregated square, or standard seating on the upper balconies of this 10,000-capacity hall. If you’re lucky you could spot a couple of local sumo wrestlers in the audience too. tinyurl.com/ TOTkokugikan.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 59

Sports & Fitness

Ice Ribbon nurtures young female stars

Every week there are several live wrestling events happening all across Tokyo. Here’s where to find them.

LGBT

Message in a photo

In Japan, porn and nude magazines are considered obscene if they are ‘not straight’

One of Asia’s top photographers, Leslie Kee opens up about his shift in sexuality, choosing to focus on male nudes (and getting arrested for it), and gender equality in Japan. Interview Mikiya Suzuki

n Asian and American fashion and photography circles, Leslie Kee needs no introduction. Having spent almost six years working in New York, the Singapore-born, Tokyo-based photographer has shot names like Lady Gaga, Pharrell Williams, Kate Moss and Beyoncé Knowles, among others. He has also photographed more than 1,000 magazine covers including ‘Elle’, ‘Harper’s Bazaar’ and ‘Vogue’. The time he spent in the US was fundamental not only to the blossoming of his career but also his sexuality. By the time he returned to Tokyo in 2007,

he was openly bisexual and his artistic focus had shifted to photographing male nudes. In 2013, Kee was arrested and detained by police in Tokyo for the crime of ‘distributing obscene images’ after holding a large-scale art exhibition of his all-nude male portraits. He hasn’t let this stop him, though. Instead, the incident has only added fuel to his fire as he seeks to overturn prejudices in Japan by insisting that his work should be seen as art. His arrest has also served to heighten his fame around the world – as they say, no publicity is bad publicity.

60 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Kee with the images that got him arrested

For more LGBT listings and reviews, go to timeout.com/tokyo

ON BECOMING BISEXUAL AND CHANGING HIS MINDSET

‘I had a dream of becoming the top photographer in Asia. There aren’t many other artists, idols, high-fashion designers etc. in Asia who are active in such a wide range of work as I am. However, in terms of expressing myself, male nude portraits portray my identity as an art photographer. My choice to focus on nudes came about after exploring ways to create “my world”, in the same way that Nobuyoshi Araki focused on sensual female nudes and Mika Ninagawa concentrates on the world-view of flowers. Not that I want to create any misunderstandings – I shoot male nudes because I like men. I was drawn to the charm of the male body long before I realised I was bisexual. I first became interested in male nude photographs at the age of 26 when I got my hands on a Bruce Weber photo collection while at photography school. My interest then developed through the likes of Richard Avedon, Peter Lindbergh and Helmut Newton. By photographing the body in its most beautiful form, when the subject is still youthful, I hope to create personal memories that will last for both the subject and the viewers. I was arrested for my solo “Forever Young” exhibition held on Feb 2, 2013. I realised that in Japan there is a double standard. Porn, nude magazines, and so on, are considered a regular part of daily life, yet are handled completely differently if they are “not straight” – then, nudity is considered to be something obscene, regardless of whether it is art.’

‘I was totally straight until I was 29. I’d only had sex with women and had even been married to a Japanese woman. I had never felt anything [overtly sexual] towards the male form. In 2001, I had the opportunity to relocate to New York and it was at this time that I felt major changes happening to me. The majority of the high-fashion designers, artists, hair and make-up artists, and stylists with whom I came into contact were gay or bisexual. Yet they were no different from straight people; they led very normal lives. Up until then I had had a feeling of pity towards those who were on the receiving end of LGBT discrimination. In a sense, [gay lifestyles were] completely hidden from me, because in Japan and the rest of Asia it is just assumed that the man will marry a woman and that they will have kids. But this isn’t the case in the rest of the world, where gay, lesbian, bisexual and straight people are all equal and one’s sexuality is not something that causes bother. It is simply a reaction to the likes of the mind and body. That is all it is. Now, I am keenly aware of how ignorant and narrow-minded I was when I held such prejudices.’ ON DISCRIMINATION AND GENDER EQUALITY IN JAPAN ‘I feel that Japan is still a maledominated society and that women are treated as sex machines. For me, the naked body is a beautiful thing, regardless of whether it is male or female. So I am continuing to photograph male nudes in my own aesthetic style as a stance on gender equality. I declined a request from an LGBT organisation to become a leader and provide support. Although I admire their cause, I think that sometimes the word “discrimination” can be used too excessively, and that my way of thinking as to what constitutes discrimination is somewhat different. I want to express the importance of understanding diversity through my work. By continuing to photograph male nudes – with the awareness that there are people who have prejudices against gay or bisexual people who take such photographs – I hope to bring some balance between the genders, even if it’s just a little. This is the motivation for my photography, and if in the process it conveys messages and support against LGBT discrimination, then I would be delighted.’

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 61

LGBT

ON SHOOTING NUDES (AND BEING ARRESTED FOR IT)

Bigger ain’t better Old-school theatres provide an intimate atmosphere. Right, top: Ginrei Hall. Right, bottom: Meguro Cinema

Double bills, old classics and a Showa-era atmosphere, these charming film houses offer a more unique cinema experience. Words Cal Widdall

efore large-screen multiplexes were copypasted all over the city, Tokyo’s cinemas were more intimate and varied in atmosphere. Cinemagoers in the Showa era (19261989) would usually watch double bills in small theatre houses called meigaza. These classic theatres still operate in Tokyo today, usually run by movie fanatics who go to great efforts in coming up with compelling themes and selecting perfect combinations of movies. As well as offering a unique experience, most have far cheaper rates than regular cinemas, with tickets ranging from ¥1,000 to ¥1,500 for two back-to-back movies.

costs ¥32,300, allows entrance for up to five people at a time. 2-19 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku. 03 3269 3852. www.ginreihall. com/schedule/ (use Google Translate to see English titles). CINEMA VERA This one focuses on Japanese movies, mainly screening films from the ’50s and ’60s, although they do show plenty of English-language Hollywood classics too. The reasonable price of ¥1,400 for two films (¥800 for students) makes it a popular choice, even before mentioning its convenient date-night location in the heart of Shibuya’s love hotel district. 4F Kinohaus, 1-5 Maruyamacho, Shibuya. 03 3461 7703.

Cinema-goers in the Showa era would usually watch double bills

GINREI HALL This theatre shows two modern (English, Japanese and other foreign) movies a fortnight in Tokyo’s ‘French district’, Kagurazaka. Easily recognisable by its redbrick facade, the theatre recently celebrated its 40th anniversary. The fee per double bill is ¥1,500 (students ¥1,200, seniors and children ¥1,000) but regulars can purchase a membership card for ¥10,800 that provides free entrance for one year. A group card, which

SHIN-BUNGEIZA Renowned for its double-bill and Saturday all-night screenings, such as their recent Super Sci-Fi Tokusatsu Film Festival, ShinBungeiza’s 266 seats make it one of the largest independent theatres. A constantly-changing movie roster – which includes Western and local films – means there’s always something new (the longest they’ve ever shown a movie for was five days). Their

62 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Film

Discover Tokyo’s meigaza lounge area also includes a library of movie-related books. 3F Maruhan Ikebukuro Bldg, 1-43-5 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima. 03 3971 9422. tinyurl.com/TOTbungeiza. MEGURO CINEMA If the staff at Meguro Cinema aren’t working in costumes related to the movie currently showing, they’ll be wearing their handmade bow ties. Movies of all genres are shown in double bills on their one screen, and the retro 10x10 seating system makes for a cosy atmosphere. Visit the website beforehand to download a ¥100 discount coupon (click on ‘Discount Ticket’ in the top right corner and print out the coupon to take with you). B1F Meguro Nishiguchi Bldg, 2-2415 Kamiosaki, Shinagawa. 03 3491 2557. tinyurl.com/TOTmeguro. KINECA OMORI With a predominance of Asian and other foreign-language movies, Kineca Omori may not be the best choice for English-only speakers. But if you’re practising your Japanese or looking for a film in, say, Bosnian, this is the one for you. Its three screens allow it to show a wide range of genres. Families are catered for with child seats, and blankets are available. 5F Seiyu, 6-27-25 Minami-Oi, Shinagawa. 03 3762 6000. tinyurl.com/TOTkineca.

Always a good option for film buffs who don't have advanced-level Japanese reading skills (nearly all films are shown with English subtitles), Tokyo International Film Festival (TIFF) is the city’s top cinematic extravaganza. This year, TIFF focuses on the works of Hideaki Anno, the ‘Neon Genesis Evangelion’ director who got his big break when he worked as an animator for 1984’s ‘Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind’ after impressing Ghibli legend Hayao Miyazaki. Two blockbuster premieres have been secured for the festival’s opening and closing ceremonies – Disney’s ‘Big Hero 6’, the animated tale of a 14-year old robotics prodigy in San Fransokyo (a cross between San Francisco and Tokyo), and ‘Parasyte’, a live-action adaptation of the popular comic from ‘The Eternal Zero’ director Takashi Yamazaki. As usual, Roppongi Hills will be the main venue, with Toho Cinemas Nihonbashi and Ginza’s Kabukiza Theatre also holding a number of screenings this time around. Oct 23-31. 2014.tiff-jp.net/en/.

NAKAMASA/PIXTA

Film

Come say konnichiwa at the…

Time Out Café & Diner

Missing us between issues? Come to our place and hang out!

he physical outpost of Time Out Tokyo brings a dash of cosmopolitan class to Ebisu – and it’s a great place to while away a few hours. Housed in the upstairs floor of key live venue Liquidroom, the Time Out Café & Diner offers an ideal spot for lazy lunches, coffee sessions and meetings. The interior is styled like a New York loft eatery with skylights, exposed brickwork, an eclectic mix of seating and a large central table that’s ideal for bigger gatherings. Order up some international food from the open-plan kitchen – specialities include the hearty pastrami sandwich and the mouthwatering Yatsugatake Premium Burger – and browse the library of Time Out books and magazines from around the globe. Alternatively, slurp a cappuccino, Chimay beer or cocktail, then check out the latest exhibition in the adjacent Kata gallery. And did we mention we have free Wi-Fi? Because we’re nice like that. 2F Liquidroom, 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya. 03 5774 0440. www.tinyurl.com/TOTcafe. Ebisu Station. 11.30am-11.30pm Mon-Thu, 11.30-5am Fri, 1pm-5am Sat, 1-10pm Sun & public hols.

Get all of our maps in Shibuya Pay a visit to the Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre

Pick up our maps and magazine at one of these venues:

You can now get your copy of Time Out Tokyo magazine delivered – we ship internationally too! Please visit time-outtokyo.myshopify. com.

Stations: Shinjuku station,Tokyo Metro Ueno station,Tokyo Metro Roppongi station,Toei Oedo Line Asakusa station,Toei Asakusa Line Tochomae station,Toei Oedo Line and more stations Tourist information centres: Tokyo Metropolitan Goverment Headquarters Shibuya Station Tourist Infomation Centre Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Centre Haneda Airport Narita International Airport and more tourist information centres

CAFÉ: KISA TOYOSHIMA; INFORMATION CENTER: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Shops: Tokyu Hands Shibuya Daikanyama Tsutaya Books Tower Records Shibuya Books Kinokuniya Tokyo and more shops

egular Time Out readers will know about our popular series of free maps: pocketsized guides to the multifarious delights this city has to offer. They’re hard to miss these days – as well as our ever-popular ‘101 Things to Do in Shibuya’ edition and the comprehensive ’88 Things to Do in Tokyo’, we’ve come out with maps for Roppongi, Shinjuku and Nihonbashi,

in addition to the recent ’50 Things to do in Tokyo for Business Travellers’, produced in collaboration with Japanese airline ANA. Each edition squeezes the best of the capital into a compact pamphlet, complete with a city map, and we’ve included everything from offbeat art galleries and otaku meccas to ancient shrines and hipster hangouts.

All of these publications, along with back issues of our magazine, are available to pick up at Shibuya Station’s tourist information centre, conveniently located in the underground passage on the second basement floor of Shibuya Station. The English-speaking guides will help you stock up, provide sightseeing tips, and assist you in navigating the bowels of the cavernous station itself.

Hotels that have Les Clefs d’Or Japan member concierge: ANA Intercontinental Tokyo The Peninsula Tokyo Palace Hotel Tokyo Park Hyatt Tokyo Grand Pacific Le Daiba Mandarin Oriental,Tokyo Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel Grand Hyatt Tokyo Conrad Tokyo Hotel Okura Tokyo The Ritz Carlton Tokyo Tokyo Prince Hotel Park Tower and more hotels Note: If you can’t find the map you’re looking for, this probably means we’ve temporarily run out of stock. Please be patient while we work on the next print run. Please direct any advertising queries to sales@timeout.jp.

Stairways to heaven

Living in crammed Tokyo, it’s easy to forget that 70 percent of Japan is made of mountains. Nick Narigon celebrates the announcement of a new ‘mountain holiday’ with his pick of the best hikes

rom 2016, Japan will inaugurate an annual August 11 Mountain Day public holiday. Good news for overworked salarymen who might just need a lie in, but the government hopes the day off will encourage people to ‘get familiar with mountains and appreciate blessings from mountains’. Well, we don’t need any more encouragement, so we immediately set to work scouting out the most beautiful trails around Japan, giving them a star rating out of five for difficulty level. Although Mountain Day is set for summer, the prime season for hiking is autumn, when foliage is a work of art and views are pristine.

Easy day hikes

MT JINBA (855m) Mt Takao (599m) has multiple courses suitable for all ages and fitness levels. But you knew that already – Takao is the most heavily trafficked mountain in the world. For a different route, head down the road to Mt Jinba, famed for the somewhat phallic white statue (it’s meant to be a horse) at the summit. The 18.5km (total) route ends at Takao and the flat traverse along the ridge can be completed in about six hours. Difficulty level ★★ How to get there From Shinjuku Station, take the Keio or

Mt Jinba’s questionable summit statue

Chuo line to Takao Station, then hop on the bus towards Jinba Kogenshita and get off at the last stop. tinyurl.com/TOTmtjinba. MT OTAKE (1,266.5m) The Musashi-Mitake Shrine at the summit of Mt Mitake (929m) has been a centre of worship for over 2,000 years. It is also the starting point for the hike to Mt Otake (sometimes spelt Odake), the tallest mountain in Tokyo Prefecture. From the shrine, it’s a two- or three-hour semi-strenuous trek through the natural rock garden, a stretch of mosscovered rocks, and past Ayahiro Falls. The summit isn’t astounding, but does offer the obligatory view of Fuji. Difficulty level ★★ How to get there From Shinjuku Station, take the Chuo line to Ome Station, then take the Ome line to Mitake Station. tinyurl.com/TOTmitake. MT KAWANORI (1,363m) Overlooking the picturesque river valley of Okutama, Mt Kawanori’s main attraction is the scenic Hyakuhiro Falls. In summer this hike is somewhat pedestrian, but autumn and winter provide serenity and gorgeous views of the snow and ice. It takes threeand-a-half hours to reach the summit, with some challenging climbs and descents. Add three hours to reach Hatonosu Station, for a total hike of 14km, and roughly seven hours. Difficulty level ★★★ How to get there From Shinjuku Station,

64 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

take the Chuo line’s express train to Okutama Station, then take a local bus from stand no. 1 to Kawanoribashi. www.town.okutama.tokyo.jp/ english/. MT TSUKUBA (877m) At the centre of Ibaraki Prefecture, Mt Tsukuba (877m) is notable for its ‘power spots’ including an 800-year-old Japanese cedar tree (Shihosugi) and various rock formations. Along the trail, one pile of boulders depicts two ships passing in the sea, while another portrays a frog with an open mouth. Follow one of two three-hour round-trip courses: the winding 2.8km Shirakumobashi course or the steep 2.5km Miyukigahara course. Difficulty level ★★ How to get there From Asakusa Station, take the Tsukuba Express to Tsukuba Station, then take the Tsukuba shuttle bus to Tsukubasan Jinja Iriguchi. tinyurl.com/TOTtsukuba. MT MITSUTOGE (1,785m) The well-marked trail from Mitsutoge Station to Mt Mitsutoge offers a bit of variety, comfortably combining steep climbs, switchbacks and bridges. Near the top you’ll pass the ‘88 Buddhas’ (there are only 81 remaining) dressed in red, and the popular rock-climbing wall. There are splendid views of Fuji the entire 15km, six-hour trip, and the descent is a rolling path overlooking Lake Kawaguchi. Difficulty level ★★ ½ How to get there From Shinjuku Station, take the Chuo line to Otsuki Station, then hop on the Fujikyuko line to Mitsutoge Station. www.fujisan.ne.jp.

MAIN IMAGE: SHINJI/PIXTA; JINBA HORSE: NICK NARIGON

Travel & Hotels

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What concrete jungle? Mt Yake. Left: Okutama Valley

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Double-day hikes

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Travel & Hotels 7UDYHO +RWHOV

TANZAWA MOUNTAIN RANGE (1,673m) How to get there From Shinjuku Station, take The rugged web of trails in Kanagawa Prefecture the Chuo lineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s limited express Azusa train to MT OKU-SHIRANE (2,578m) rise above the tree line, providing a panoramic Matsumoto Station, then take a taxi to Kamikochi. Also known as Nikko-Shirane, this is the highest view of Fujiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s foothills. For a two-day trip, start from www.kamikochi.or.jp/english. Note that Kamikochi peak in Nikko National Park. A 15km loop winds Okura and hike 8.9km to the top of Mt Tonodake is closed off during winter â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this year on Nov 15. its wayHUKDSV \RXÂ·YH QHYHU KHDUG up the mountain range, allowing hikers DERXW -DSDQÂ·V ,]X 3HQLQVXOD (1,491m). After an overnight stay, day two features Where to stay Nishi-Itoya Mountain Lodge to peek not only Oku-Shirane, but also Mt Mae$V DQ LQWHUQDWLRQDO GHVWLQDWLRQ 20km of knee-knocking descents and steep uphill in Kamikochi. 0263 95 2206. tinyurl.com/ Shirane (2,373m) and Mt Goshiki (2,379m). LWÂ·V VRPHZKDW KLGGHQ LQ WKH VKDGRZ climbs over Mt Tanzawa (1,567m), TOTkamikochi. The trip can easily be turned into an overnighter, RI 7RN\RÂ·V EULJKW QHRQ OLJKWV 7KDWÂ·V Mt Hirugatake (the highest point in with several other nearby mountains to explore. D VKDPH DV ,]X LV WKH WUDQTXLO \LQ WR the Tanzawa mountain range), and (Fancy an onsen while youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re there? Turn to MT KITA-DAKE (3,193m) 6SULQJ FOHDQLQJ Let thetallest mountain, 7RN\RÂ·V IUDQWLF \DQJ +HUH \RXÂ·OO ILQG Mt Hinokiboramaru (1,601m). page 66.) Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s second onsen experienceiscleanse FRV\ UHWUHDWV IURP WKH FROG DQG Difficulty level â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; Difficulty level â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; Kita-dake part of the Southern body and soul EUHDWKWDNLQJ YLHZV RI VSDUNOLQJ Alps mountain range and How to get there From Asakusa Station, take the How to get there From RFHDQV DQG VQRZ FDSSHG 0RXQW )XML is comparable to climbing Tobu-Nikko line to Tobu Nikko Station, then take Shinjuku Station, take the E\ EXOOHW WUDLQ DQG LV QDPHG DIWHU WKH Fuji. From the parking lot at the7KH SHQLQVXOD LV RQO\ DQ KRXU ZHVW bus to the last stop at Yumoto Onsen.WKH 6XSHU 9LHZ 2GRULNR WUDLQ IURP Odakyu Odawara express to WHPSOH LW VXUURXQGV +HUH \RX FDQ RI -DSDQÂ·V FDSLWDO E\ EXOOHW WUDLQ EXW Hirogawara, go across the Where to stay Nikko Kanaya Hotel. 13006KLQMXNX ZLWK VSHFLDOO\ GHVLJQHG Shibusawa Station, then take WDNH D IRRWEDWK LQ ,]XÂ·V ROGHVW RQVHQ LWÂ·V EHVW WR VWD\ WKH QLJKW Â²DOWKRXJK pedestrian bridge. After 20 Kamihatsuishi-machi, Nikko, Tochigi. 0288ZLQGRZV RIIHULQJ D SHUIHFW YLVWD IRU 54 the bus to Okura. Return from D ORQJHU EXW PRUH SLFWXUHVTXH ULGH RU VWUROO DPRQJ ZLOORZ\ EDPERR WUHHV \RXÂ·OO OLNHO\ ILQG \RXUVHOI VWUHWFKLQJ minutes, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll reach a fork â&#x20AC;&#x201C; take 0001. tinyurl.com/TOTkanaya. Nishi-Tanzawa Shizen Kyoshitsu %RRN LQWR RQH RI $WDPLÂ·V U\RNDQ +RW VSULQJV LQ ZLQWHU DUH D the trail to the right, which gets WKDW RXW WR WZR RU WKUHH EHFDXVH DIWHU bus stop. ZKLFK DUH XVXDOO\ FRPSOHWH ZLWK D TXLQWHVVHQWLDO SDUW RI WKH -DSDQHVH steep quickly. The seven-kilometre \RX VOLS LQWR WKH VWHDPLQJ FDUHVV RI Where to stay There are several MT AKA-DAKE (2,899m) SULYDWH RXWGRRU EDWK DQG \RX FDQ H[SHULHQFH DQG ,]X LV MXVW WKH SODFH hike ends five to six hours later at the ,]XÂ·V IDPRXV RQVHQDOO \RXÂ·OO ZDQW mountain huts that offer futon beds and The highest peak in the South Alpsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Yatsugatake WDNH LQ WKH YLHZ RI WKH RFHDQ DQG WR H[SHULHQFH WKHLU UHMXYHQDWLQJ Katanokoya lodge where thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a WR GR LV EOLVVIXOO\ GR]H RII ,Q IDFW light meals. We recommend Sonbutsu Sanso (â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;eight peaksâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;) region. Starting from Minotoguchi, PRXQWDLQV DW VXQVHW 7KH\ FDQ EH campground.SRZHU EHIRUH KHDGLQJ EDFN WR WKH On day two it is a 45-minute hike to $WDPL LV ZLGHO\ NQRZQ LQ -DSDQ DV on Mt Tonodake. For reservations, call 090 2569 it takes about three hours to reach Akadake IURP WKH VRXUFH XQGLOXWHG OHDYLQJ SULFH\ EXW WKH\ DQG \RX DUH ZRUWK LW the summit forFLW\ ZKLUO sunrise. Ambitious hikers can keep 6013 or e-mail sonbutsusanso@yahoo.co.jp. RQH RI WKH WRS onsen VSRWV Kosen Lodge. The next day is a two-and-a-half\RXU VNLQ WLQJOLQJ ZLWK DOO WKH going to Mt Aino-dake (3,189m), Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fourth Furuya Ryokan: 5-24 Higashi tinyurl.com/TOTsonbutsu (Japanese only). hour stretch\RX VLPSO\ KDYH WR VWD\ to the summit, which offers 1RWKLQJ FRPSDUHV WR VRDNLQJ views %HVLGHV QDWXUDOO\ RFFXUULQJ PLQHUDOV highest mountain. RXWVLGH WKH KRW ZDWHU PHOWLQJ \RXU Kaigan, Atami, Shizuoka. of Mt Fuji and the Southern, Central and Northern IRU GLQQHU 7UDGLWLRQDO -DSDQHVH â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; Difficulty level PXVFOHV ZKLOH \RX EUHDWKH LQ WKH 0557 81 0001. Alps. Experienced hikers can complete this trip MT YAKE-DAKE (2,455m) )RU D FKHDSHU RSWLRQ WU\ .Â·V +RXVH U\RNDQ LQQV DUH DOO RYHU ,]X DQG IURP Â&#x2013; SHU SHUVRQ www.atami-furuya.co.jp. in winter with an ice axeRQ VHUYLQJ and crampons. UHIUHVKLQJ FKLOO RI WKH ZLQWHU DLU This is the North Alpsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; most,WR 2QVHQ active volcano. 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Chuo lineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Azusa limited express train toJXHVWV ZLWK ODUJH FOHDQ URRPV WKDW Chino open to wildlife encountersDHVWKHWLF SOXV DQ LQGRRU RQVHQ EXW including bears. Near DUH EHDXWLIXOO\ -DSDQHVH LQ GHVLJQ Where to staywww.kshouse.jp/ito-e. Katanokoya on Mt Kita-dake. For LQ WKH FRXQWU\ GLUHFW IURP WKH VHD Station, then take a local bus to the last stop at FRVWV OHVV WKDQ KDOI WKH SULFH 7DNH the peak itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a steep scramble through volcanic reservations, call 055 288 2421. Katanokoya. Minotoguchi. tinyurl.com/TOTakadake. 6XLWHV DUH FORVHG RII E\ VOLGLQJ <RX FDQ DOVR VDPSOH VHDVRQDO JULOOHG rock, but the summit is oneD FDEOH FDU XS 0RXQW 2PXUR IRU D of the best lunch spots SDSHU VFUHHQ GRRUV WKH WDWDPL com (Japanese only). To stay overnight before or Where to stay AkadakeOREVWHU FUDE Kosen Lodge. For RU VWHDPHG ILVK GLVKHV )RU PRUH LGHDV IRU in Japan, complete with 300m-wide crater and VSHFWDFXODU YLHZ RI ,WR DQG )XML IORRULQJ JLYLQJ RII D ZRRG\ VFHQW DQG after your hike, check out Kofu Fujiya Hotel. reservations, call 090 4824 9986 or e-mail DQG D ZKROH DUUD\ RI VHDIRRG VKRUW EUHDNV JR WR geothermal vents. 6KX]HQML LQ FHQWUDO ,]X LV DERXW 3-2-30 Yumura, Kofu, Yamanashi. WKH EHGV DOO WUDGLWLRQDO IXWRQV 7KH akadake@alles.or.jp (Japanese only). tinyurl. $WDPL LV XQGHU DQ KRXU DZD\ IURP WLPHRXW FRP WRN\R Difficulty level â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; WZR KRXUV DZD\ IURP 7RN\R VWDWLRQ 055 253 8111. tinyurl.com/TOTkofufujiya. KRW VSULQJV RI LWV RQVHQ IORZ VWUDLJKW com/TOTakalodge. 7RN\R VWDWLRQ E\ EXOOHW WUDLQ RU WDNH

The cooling team The special stirring procedure to cool Kusatsu Onsen’s hot waters

Let’s get steamy In Japan, this could mean several things, but here we’re talking about healing hot spring getaways. Amanda Taylor rounds up six of the best 66 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

ot springs, or onsen, are a big deal in Japan. Not to be confused with sento, which are simply public baths using heated tap water, onsen are comprised of volcanic spring water that’s full of natural minerals, giving health benefits like clearer skin, detoxification and even weight loss. In our previous issue, we covered ‘onsen etiquette’ (no tattoos, for example), so we thought we’d follow up this time with a round-up of Japan’s favourite hot springs. One informal survey later and here are the top six onsen for day-trip or weekend getaways.

COOLING TEAM: MIHAI-BOGDAN LAZAR/SHUTTERSTOCK; SAND BATH: JOHN S LANDER/GETTY; GINZAN ONSEN: YFGEO/PIXTA

Travel & Hotels

HONOURABLE MENTION Featured in our launch issue, Atami is

TOTbeppusand) on Shoningahama beach, where you’ll be submerged in volcanically heated sand while overlooking soft-crashing waves. How to get there By air 1 hour 40 minutes from Haneda Airport to Oita Airport, then a 45-minute bus ride to the bus stop Beppu Kitahama. By train Five hours by shinkansen from Tokyo Station. Take the Nozomi Shinkansen to Kokura Station, then transfer to the Sonic limited express to Beppu Station. Travel by Hikari and Sakura trains will require an extra hour and another transfer at Shin-Osaka Station.

DID YOU KNOW?

KUSATSU ONSEN: EM7/SHUTTERSTOCK; YUMOTO ONSEN: BREEZEYOSHI/PIXTA

3. KUSATSU ONSEN, GUNMA This onsen area came out tops in our informal survey. Its water is so Weekend trips hot that there’s a special stirring 1. BEPPU ONSEN, OITA procedure to cool it, rather than Known as the hot spring adding cold water, which capital of Japan, Beppu would dilute the potency is made up of a of the minerals (said cluster of eight TOP to be able to cure any onsen areas with TOURIST TIP sickness except gushing waters Go on the ‘Hell Tour’, which takes you lovesickness). This reaching up to to eight of the hottest onsen in Beppu, stirring method is 150°C. It’s a nicknamed ‘jigoku’ (burning hell). called Yumomi and bit of a trek to Look out for the hot-water lovin’ can be watched as get there, but crocs at Oniyama Jigoku. a performance at it’s worth a visit tinyurl.com/TOThell certain times. The for its variety of most popular public hot baths including mud, spring is Sai no Kawara steam and even sand Rotenburo, located in Sai no baths. Speaking of which, Kawara Park. It boasts pretty forest be sure to try the Beppu Beach Sand views and pure, steaming water, and Bath (0977 66 5737, tinyurl.com/

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Travel & Hotels

2. GINZAN ONSEN, YAMAGATA In the hot spring It’s said that bathing in the area of Ginzan hottest onsen water can Onsen, wooden burn the same amount of buildings line the kilojoules as jogging. Ginzan river and at night the soothing rush of the water, lit up by flickering gas lamps, creates the atmosphere of a Japanese fairy tale. Winter, when crisp white snow frosts the whole town, is prime season at Ginzan Onsen. It’s the perfect place to experience outdoor winter bathing. Brisk air on your upper body and face makes for a delicious contrast to the warmth of the water. It’s an extremely popular winter bathing spot, so book early, as much as three months in advance. The highlight of the area is definitely the scenery. For sightseeing, you’ll have to look elsewhere in Yamagata like Zao Onsen area, which is decorated with snow sculptures in winter. How to get there It’s roughly 3.5 hours from Tokyo Station to Oishida Station by Yamagata Shinkansen, and then 40 minutes by bus to Ginzan Onsen bus stop.

an onsen resort town less than two hours Lake Yunoko, the entrance from Tokyo and built around one of steam rises up fee is just ¥500. Japan’s most popular hot springs. from vents in the Tip: buy some Good for honeymooners and ground, admittedly Yu no Hana hot celeb spotting. making the air and spring powder to the water smell like experience the healing stinky sulphur, but the minerals of Japan’s hot water is packed with minerals springs at home. If you’re looking that leave skin tingling. The entire for something else to do in the area, area is dotted with ryokan featuring Mt Shirane offers pretty hiking trails onsen and just north of the ‘town’ in spring and summer, and in winter, you’ll find Yunodaira Marsh, where skiers can take on the mountains slopes – Kusatsu Snow & Spa Resort hot water actually bubbles up from the ground. On your way to Yumoto (www.kusatsu-kokusai.com) is open Onsen, it’s worth stopping off at from early December to mid-April. Ryuzu Waterfall and making the trek How to get there It’s about twothrough the dreamlike Senjogahara and-a-half hours from Ueno Station hiking trail. Yumoto, Nikko, Tochigi. on the weekends-only Kusatsu 0288 62 2570 (Oku-Nikko Yumoto limited-express train to NaganoharaHot Spring Hotels Cooperative). Kusatsuguchi Station (otherwise How to get there It’s about two take the shinkansen or Takasaki line hours from Tobu Asakusa Station to Takasaki Station, then change by rapid train to Tobu Nikko Station. to the Agatsuma line), and then Leave early, because Yumoto Onsen a 25-minute bus ride to Kusatsu is an 80-minute bus ride from Tobu Onsen bus terminal. Nikko Station (ask for details at the tourist office inside the station). Buy Day trips the All Nikko Pass 2-Day Nikko Pass 4. NIWA NO YU, TOKYO from Tobu Asakusa Station to get Another place where you can wear discounted travel. bathing suits in a designated area (good for couples who want to 6. HAKONE YURYO, HAKONE hang out together), Niwa no Yu is Many hotels and ryokan in Hakone a spa/onsen in Tokyo. While the open their baths to the public, but waters aren’t as mineral rich as true one of the most notable onsen is onsen, since they come from drilling Hakone Yuryo. Surrounded by nature, underground, Niwa no Yu is an easy it has indoor and outdoor communal trip for Tokyoites and the facilities are baths, as well as 19 private open-air impressive. The spa is housed in a baths (for an extra fee) and massage Japanese garden making for relaxing services. 4 Tonosawa, Hakone, outdoor views. Note that no children Ashigara-shimo, Kanagawa. 0460 85 are allowed. 3-25-1 Koyama, Nerima, 8411. www.hakoneyuryo.jp/english. Tokyo. 03 3990 4126. tinyurl.com/ How to get there It’s about 90 TOTniwa. minutes from Shinjuku Station How to get there From Shinjuku on the Odakyu Romance Car to Station it takes about 20 minutes Hakone-Yumoto Station. Buy the on the Toei Oedo line to Toshimaen Hakone Freepass, which covers your Station. round-trip fare and unlimited use of transportation such as trains, 5. YUMOTO ONSEN, NIKKO buses and even ropeways and boats At this hot spring area that’s part of in the area. Nikko National Park and just next to

Getting Around Haneda Airport (aka Tokyo International Airport)

Getting Around

All the airport navigation tips you need when flying to or from Tokyo Narita International Airport

‘Good Design Award’ in 2010. It’s one of Japan’s fastest high-speed trains and runs from Narita Airport to N’EX (NARITA EXPRESS) Ueno Station in 41 minutes. All seats Whizz to major Tokyo stations in are reserved. ¥2,470, tinyurl.com/ around 60-90 minutes on the Narita TOTkeisei. Express for about ¥3,000. Trains GET DISCOUNT leave every 30 to 60 minutes. Check Keisei Skyliner e-ticket This the website for the full list of discount ticket is available station stops. tinyurl.com/ GET for early online bookings. TOTnex. THE APP Download Narita Airport’s Only visitors to Japan are GET DISCOUNT Tabimori ‘hospitality app’, which eligible. ¥2,200, tinyurl. N’EX Tokyo Direct includes a simple Japanese phrase com/TOTkeisei-eticket. Ticket They recently book, speech translation, transfer guide, currency convertor and Keisei Skyliner & Tokyo launched this 50 more. Can be used offline. Subway Ticket A combo percent discount offer for tinyurl.com/TOT narita-app. ticket for Keisei Skyliner foreigners so make sure and Tokyo subways, including you visit the N’EX ticket office a one-way or round-trip ticket to to purchase your reserved seat. Narita plus unlimited rides on Toei Not valid for travel back to Narita. Subway and Tokyo Metro lines. On ¥1,500, tinyurl.com/TOTnex. sale at Skyliner ticket-sale counters at Narita Airport. Six price options KEISEI SKYLINER from ¥2,800-¥5,400. tinyurl.com/ The Keisei Skyliner won the Japan TOTkeisei-subway. Institute of Design Promotion’s

68 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

LOCAL TRAINS They may be a bit slower (and more crowded) but you’ll save a bit of cash. The trip from Narita to Tokyo Station on JR’s Sobu line (rapid train) takes 90 minutes (¥1,320), while the Keisei line’s limited express will get you into central Tokyo in 75 minutes (¥1,025). tinyurl.com/TOTnarita-local. BUS Six bus companies operate routes from Narita Airport to various locations in central Tokyo. They also travel to nearby prefectures and even go on to Kyoto and Osaka. Bus fare varies depending on your destination, but you can get a oneway ticket to Shinjuku for ¥3,100. tinyurl.com/TOTnarita-bus. HELICOPTER Got a spare ¥270,000 (excl. tax) lying around? Book the Tokyo-Narita Heli Direct charter service. Get picked up by a chauffeured car and then hop on a helicopter at Ark Hills Heliport in Roppongi. Probably the most expensive 20-minute journey you’ll ever take. tinyurl.com/TOTheli.

Keikyu train line offers passengers travelling from Haneda Airport six hours of free wi-fi at Wi2 300 hotspots in the city. Sign up at the Keikyu Tourist Information Centre at Haneda. tinyurl.com/ TOThaneda-wifi.

LOCAL TRAINS Keikyu trains run regularly to Shinagawa Station (¥410), only 15 minutes away, where you can transfer to different trains and access all parts of Tokyo. You can also catch the monorail to Hamamatsucho Station (¥490) and change to the JR line there. tinyurl.com/TOThaneda-rail. GET DISCOUNT Choose between the Welcome! Tokyo Subway Ticket (¥1,200¥1,900, tinyurl.com/TOThanedawelcome), which includes a oneway ticket between Haneda and Sengakuji Station plus unlimited transfers between all Tokyo subway lines (validity varies depending on which price ticket you choose), or the Haneda! Keikyu & Pasmo ticket (¥2,600, tinyurl.com/TOThanedapasmo), which gets you a Pasmo travel card for use on local trains in the city plus a round-trip ticket to Shinagawa or Yokohama Station. KEIHIN KYUKO BUS (HANEDA AIRPORT EXPRESS) This bus stops at a number of major hotels and tourist attractions. Prices vary depending on destination, but a one-way ticket to Shibuya is ¥1,030 and the trip takes about 50 minutes. hnd-bus.com. TAXI Fares to central Tokyo areas including Shibuya, Shinjuku, Tokyo and Ueno are around ¥7,000 (prebook for a flat-fare discount). Not too bad for the convenience of door-todoor car service.

IMAGE: HIGHCORE/PIXTA

Coming and going

GET FREE WI-FI

Going underground? Welcometo tothe theworldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;smost mostefficient efficienttransport transport system Welcome

Getting Around Around Foryour yourfull, full,up-to-the-minute up-to-the-minuteguide guideto toTokyo Tokyovisit visit www.timeout.com/tokyo www.timeout.com/tokyo 77 69 For

Getting Around

Food, glorious food

Getting Around

Eat your way through autumn at these markets, festivals and pop-up beer gardens 1. Market of the Sun Japan’s largest urban farmer’s market features over 100 vendors from around the country. Stock up on seasonal fruit and vegetables while enjoying workshops on harvesting and programmes especially for children. 2nd Sat and Sun every month. Tsukishima Second Children’s Park, 1-11-4 Kachidoki, Chuo. tinyurl.com/TOTmarket-sun.

6. Beer Garden at Tokyo Dome City Kick back with Kirin, Asashi Kuronama (black beer) or Budweiser, while snacking on nibbles including pastrami beef and marinated salmon. Open from 9.30am on weekends, this beer garden also treats you to live sports matches shown on a big screen. Until Nov 10. Tokyo Dome City, 1-3-61 Koraku, Bunkyo. www.tokyo-dome.co.jp/e.

2. 26th Hokkaido Fair in Yoyogi Feast on delicacies from Hokkaido including freshly grilled seafood and lamb meat, superb sashimi, soup curry and miso ramen. Cheapos will be grateful for the ¥390 ‘special menu’. Oct 3-5. Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizounocho, Shibuya, Tokyo. tinyurl.com/ TOThokkaido-fair.

7. Annon Morning Market This morning market at Tsukiji Hongan Temple is perfect for a slow Sunday. Find garden-fresh fruits and vegetables, homemade bread and sweets, and join workshops to learn how to make origami or traditional Japanese braiding. Every 3rd Sunday (Oct 19, Nov 16, Dec 21). Tsukiji Hongan Temple, 3-15-1 Tsukiji, Chuo. tinyurl.com/TOTannon.

3. Shimokitazawa Curry Festival ‘Making Shimokitazawa the holy ground of curry’ is the motto of this spicy 10-day festival. Pick up the free map at the station and follow the curry trail, which takes you to 100 restaurants. Also, meet ‘Curryman’ and see who gets crowned Miss Curry. Oct 10-19. Various shops around Shimokitazawa, Setagaya. tinyurl.com/TOTcurry. 4. Earth Day Market Find farm produce and organic fair-trade goodies. Also bring your old books or used oil along to exchange them for ‘r’, a virtual Earth Day currency that can be used to get discounts at the market stalls. Oct 5, Nov 22-24, Dec 14. Yoyogi Park 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizounocho, Shibuya. www. earthdaymarket.com (Japanese only). 5. Barbecue Beer Garden Vento The Wing Takanawa West shopping mall outside of Shinagawa Station hosts this BBQ-themed terrace beer garden with an Italian twist (think spicy shrimp pizzas and seafood skewers). Two-hour all-you-caneat-and-drink sets start from ¥4,500. Until Oct 31. 4-10-18 Takanawa, Minato. tinyurl.com/TOTbbq.

8. Yebisu Marche A small farmers’ market selling everything organic and natural, held twice a month at Ebisu’s Garden Place. Even though the prices are somewhat higher than other similar markets in the city, it’s a good opportunity to get talking to the producers. Every 1st and 3rd Sunday. Ebisu Garden Place Clock Plaza, 4-20 Ebisu, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTyebisu. 9. Oedo Sake Festival Kanda Shrine will again play host to a day of sipping, mingling and appraising. Expect snacks and quality sake from across the country. Oct 13. Kanda Shrine, 2-16-2 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda. tinyurl. com/ TOToedoSake. Advance ¥1,000, same-day ¥1,200. 10. Solamachi Christmas Market German-influenced Christmas markets are taking Tokyo by storm, and this one offers all the usual attractions: watch Christmas lights whilst enjoying a cup of Glühwein and confections such as Stollen, waffles and chocolate fudge. Nov 1-Dec 25. 1-1-2 Oshiage, Sumida. tinyurl.com/TOTsolamachi.

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10 6

Getting Around

2 4

ANNON MORNING MARKET: KEISUKE TANIGAWA; MARKET OF THE SUN: YASUHISA SHIMBO

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[TOHOKU UPDATE]

The clean-up crisis As Iitate’s land gets dug out and cleared to reduce radiation levels, evacuees are still left wondering if decontamination efforts will be enough. Words Yutaka Kamimura

the forests that account for 75 percent of the village. Many villagers are concerned that if only houses and their surrounding grounds are decontaminated, the radiation will creep back from the radioactive materials scattered through the forests. Not to mention the fact that there is still radiation being released from the nuclear power plant around just 35km away. Hideo Takahashi, a flower farmer from Iitate’s Matsuzuka district returns to his home every couple of days to feed his four cats. Dogs, civets, raccoons, badgers and foxes all gather where the cats are fed and it’s as if the boundary between the human world and the wilderness is blurring. Before evacuating, Takahashi raised cut flowers in his 3,000m² of greenhouses. He has been lucky enough to be able to resume his business in the nearby town of Iino. He was provided with land and greenhouses by the village, but has to spend his own money on irrigation and other costs. Profitability is difficult, since his land space has been reduced to only 500m². ‘I want to return to the village and work my heart out. I am now 65 years old, and would like to be back by the time I am 70. If it takes any longer I’ll be too old to move,’ he says. Most of Takahashi’s original greenhouses were removed

for decontamination. If he is able to return to Iitate and resume work, he will need to invest in facilities again. ‘It would be tough to keep living as an evacuee. But at the same time it would not be easy to go back to the village and restart my life.’ Shozo Sugano, a farmer from Iitate’s Hiso district, also regularly returns to the village from the evacuation shelter to visit his pet cat. Sugano moved to the area after World War II, growing daikon (radishes) in a space about the size of a baseball field. His house, which is near the off-limits Nagadoro district, has high levels of radiation. Before decontamination, it exceeded three microsieverts per hour. After decontamination, the level halved to 1.6 microsieverts per hour, but the level designated as safe is below 0.23 microsieverts per hour (one millisievert per year). Sugano’s son says, ‘Even if it is decontaminated, I doubt we can live there. This will ultimately end up just profiting general contractors,’ he adds, conveying his scepticism towards the decontamination efforts. As there is no government-funded compensation for resettlement, if the decontamination is insufficient, the villagers will not be able to move elsewhere. The fate of the people, it seems, is still left hanging in the air.

Even if it is decontaminated, I doubt we can live there

IMAGES: YUTAKA KAMIMURA

his summer, a major decontamination project began in the village of Iitate. As one of the worst affected areas after the March 2011 disaster at the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear power plant, the village has been deserted for three years as radiation levels exceed 20 millisieverts per year. For the area to be habitable, the level needs to be reduced to one millisievert per year, a figure even the mayor of the village, Norio Sugano, doesn’t seem to believe is achievable – he has stated his goal of decontaminating the town to ‘five millisieverts per year or less’. As we reported in issue two of ‘Time Out Tokyo’ magazine, 6,000-plus evacuees have been unable to return to their homes and their pets, which also means many farm workers have been unable to make a living. Now, fluorescent flags and ribbons are popping up around the village, signifying that a site is to be decontaminated. Vegetation is mowed, ground is dug out, forests are toppled, and overgrown gardens and farmland are replaced with new gravel and soil. Excavators and mountains of bags full of radioactive waste are the new everyday landscape of this once prosperous farming region. At least ¥300 billion in taxes is being spent on the decontamination of Iitate. Residences and nearby farmlands are expected to be completed by the end of 2014, but effective methods are still being sought for the decontamination of

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In Japan, platforms never go out of fashion

Mysteries of the kimono

Takeo Funabiki unravels the traditional garment’s place in modern life

IMAGE: PAYLESSIMAGES/PIXTA

MYSTERY 1 How come vintage kimonos are so cheap? So you want to buy a kimono? While you can find them at department stores and speciality shops (gofukuya) in places like Ginza, they’re pretty expensive. You can, however, pick up a secondhand one at a much more affordable price. For instance, a luxurious ¥1 million kimono, made with gold and silver threads and still looking as good as it did on the day it was first bought, can be bought secondhand for around ¥50,000. The explanation Nowadays, the kimono is kind of like a wedding dress, worn only once, or a few times after the coming-of-age ceremony at most. So a personal kimono worn to a formal event just once may still be brand new, but it quickly loses its value as something the original owner would want to wear again. Once it is sold as vintage it also loses all personal value as a family heirloom. Great for tourists, though, who are generally unconcerned with details relating to a kimono’s family lineage. There are signs that the Japanese mentality is starting to change, however – vintage formal kimonos are starting to climb in price, even previously worn ones. MYSTERY 2 Why isn’t samurai attire used for tourism? If you go to Buckingham Palace or Vatican City, you’ll be sure to find soldiers dressed in traditional garments. Yet if you go to the Imperial Palace or the National Diet Building here in Tokyo, you’ll be

disappointed to see there are no guards bedecked in samurai attire. If you want to see traditional samurai kimono worn by men, you’ll have to visit a kabuki theatre, such as Kabuki-za, Shinbashi’s Enbujo, or the National Theatre of Japan. Rarely, if ever, do you see men wearing formal kimonos on the streets of Tokyo. The explanation Modernisation in Japan took place after new movements towards Westernisation drove out the old samurai culture. The Meiji emperor, by opting to wear both pre-samurai dress and contemporary Western clothing, personified the idea of a duality between tradition and modernity. As a result, the formal samurai look eventually disappeared from official use. This is why you won’t see the emperor in oldschool samurai clothes – even if such a photo were to exist, it would be extremely rare and would cause quite a ruckus. It would be something like the crown prince of England being spotted in a Nazi uniform!

MYSTERY 3 So how come women still wear kimonos in daily life if men don’t? If you want to see the female form in kimono, you’ll also find this at the theatre. Not only do the actors dress in kimonos, but roughly 20 percent of theatregoers attend in traditional garb. Note that patrons tend to wear plain, unadorned kimonos, so you won’t see much extravagance there. To further complicate matters, kabuki actors are all male, so what you’ll see on the stage is merely an imitation of the feminine. Another option is to visit a finedining restaurant and have a geisha entertain your party. This is expensive, though: discounting the food and drink, having a single geisha serve you and your guests for two hours can cost around ¥30,000. If the entertainers come in a trio, the bill may well come to ¥100,000 or more. For a far more convenient – and free – option, you could spy on a wedding. Whether you’ll be allowed to take

Women wear kimonos at four key points in their lives

photographs and observe the ceremony depends on the hosts, but if you hang out near a hotel reception hall on a spring or autumn afternoon, you’ll surely get to see a lovely bride kitted out in full kimono. In general, Japanese women wear kimonos at four key points in their lives, with the wedding being the last. The first time kimonos are worn is at ages three and seven during the month of November – a time when girls visit shrines with their families to give thanks for being alive and in good health. The next occasion comes at the age of 20, and is known as the coming-of-age ceremony. The kimono industry’s golden days are long over, so the time before this ceremony is when shops make most of their sales. So, aside from at weddings, you could glimpse female kimono-wearers if you visit a shrine in early November or go to a local ceremonial hall in early January on Coming of Age Day. The explanation This surely has to do with femininity. Even today, Edo-era feminine sexuality remains nostalgic and attractive to Japanese men. Images of women in kimonos continue to be updated and refreshed in the minds of men. What’s more, the kimono has also recently been reappropriated by women as a positive symbol of sexual expression. More and more young women are choosing to wear kimonos. This hardly reflects a passive sort of femininity, but a new, proactive approach to a woman’s own image.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 73

You know you’re in Tokyo when…

n Tokyo, the humble vending machine transforms into something close to iconic. Stationed on pretty much every corner, they serve you (hot or cold) green tea and café lattes, along with the usual soft drinks and water. But there’s more to these metal markets than just drinks. According to the Japan Vending Machine Manufacturers Association (2013 research), there are estimated to be more than five million machines installed across the nation, with only 50 percent selling beverages. Here are a few of the more interesting ones…

The vending machine tells you what Not just you want

any banana Dole Japan unveiled the nation’s first banana vending machine in 2010. The machine stocks Dole’s signature Bobby bananas, prized for their sweetness and light aftertaste. They are maintained at a temperature of 13°C and dispensed via conveyer belt to prevent any bruising. We think they just invented the term ‘high-end fruit’. Find it Take exit 3 at Shibuya Station and it’s just front of Book 1st on the B2 floor. Price ¥130 each, ¥390 for a bunch

JR East has introduced what they’re calling ‘Next Generation’ vending machines at 71 of their key railway terminals. These imposing monoliths come with a large touchscreen that displays all the items available. They also have a sensor to determine your age and gender, and these facts are used together with information such as the temperature or time to tell you which drinks will suit you best. Perfect for indecisive buyers. Find it JR terminal stations Price Varies

Natto If you need a good reason to eat the sticky, smelly, fermented soybean dish, keep in mind that natto is a Japanese superfood and can help prevent heart disease. Specialty shop Natto Kobo Sendaiya in Ikejiri-Ohashi sells various kinds of natto in packs, as well as all sorts of related foodstuffs, such as natto-furikake (seasoning for rice), amanatto (sweetened azuki or other beans) and even natto doughnuts. So it’s not surprising they’ve put a natto vending machine outside. Find it Head out of the west exit of Ikejiri-Ohashi Station, in the direction of Sangenjaya, and before long you should be able to spot it in front of Natto Kobo Sendaiya. Price Varies

Toys, toys, toys Talk about last-minute gift shopping. This mega-sized toy vending machine, which belongs to Hakuhinkan Toy Park, is open 24 hours a day and dispenses items including soft toys, the latest mascot goods and seasonal products from rows of large boxes. Find it Take Shimbashi Station’s exit 1 and head towards Ginza. Once you pass under the expressway, you’ll see Hakuhinkan Toy Park on Chuo-dori. The vending machine is around the back of the building, on the side opposite the main entrance. Price ¥2,000-¥10,000

Freshly made burger The machine may just seem like a transparent gimmick. But look again: even the owner doesn’t seem to be taking things seriously (the Japanese text reads: ‘Vending machine?’). If you’re feeling game, put ¥100 into the slot, then watch as some amateur mechanics are employed, and eventually a ‘Tateishi Burger’ pops out. Just don’t try to buy more than one: the chef (who is behind the machine and cooks each burger) might get into a bit of a flurry. Side note: the website for this place is brilliant too – www.bakatter.com. Find it From Horikiri-Shobuen Station, walk south down Heiwabashi-dori. The vending machine is on the corner of the Myogenji intersection. Price ¥100

In the next issue of Time Out Tokyo… Best restaurants

It’s time for the silly season, and what better time to release our lip-smacking list of the city’s top places to wine and dine. The countdown begins now. 74 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Available across Tokyo from December!

ILLUSTRATIONS: MASAHIRO FUKAZAWA

Snack time

Tailormade drinks