Issue 6: Cheap Eats by Time Out Tokyo

INSIDE! Miyavi, the rock star The ‘Unbroken’ actor on his new album Cocktail chemistry Meet Tokyo’s top mixologists 48 hours in Osaka Take a whirlwind tour APR - JUN 2015 NO.6 TIMEOUT.COM/TOKYO

Just in time for spring FRE E

In this issue

www.timeout.com/tokyo

April – June2013 2015– November January 2014

Hello Tokyo… Welcomewe’re to thestill firstleading ever Time Tokyostar magazine. Although theOut Michelin race You’ll have noticed we’re kicking things off with (currently 12 restaurants in Tokyo boast the top a modest little claim: that this city outshines any star someon of the the planet city’s best flavours otherrating), metropolis – and it’s notcan only be found at hole-in-the-wall joints, at busy because of scruffy the nonstop fireworks (although we do like fireworks). toinside p24 and we’ll give you 49 street stalls andTurn even Tokyo Station. other incontestable reasons. And inglory the rest of the Make your way through the culinary of local magazine find hundreds more: from proof dishes withyou’ll our 12-page guide to Tokyo’s top that the world will see the greatest Games ever in cheap eats. Perfect if you’re planning a hanami 2020 (p10) to our tips on such quintessential picnic, a night on the town, or a budget-friendly Tokyo experiences as Golden-gai (p68) – and from trip Tsukiji music, fish market. the to capital’s style And and don’t art to be theintimidated savviest by intestines or meet the live prawns. If Time Out’s citythe cats you’ll ever (p82). Tokyo is beyond compare. Use this mag to Guy make the most Group Food & Drink Editor Dimond canof it. stomach them, so can you.

On top of the world… With the bid in the bag, Cheap eats this is Tokyo’s Delicious noshmoment… Discover why you’re in the for less dosh, best city on earth, p24 p20

Inside 06 Tokyo Update 40 Inside City news, city views

13 06 21 14 17 23 20 24 36 42

Tokyo Diary Tokyo Update Essential events City news, city views Courtesy calls Tokyo Diary Tokyo for Essential beginnersevents Courtesy Road to calls How to job hunt recovery like Tokyoite Oneatown’s postCheap tsunamieats comeback We roundbest up the Tokyo: city best budget food, in the world just in time for spring Need a reason? Eating & Drinking We’ll give you 50! Shopping & Style

They shoot Tokyo One amazing city, 100 photographers 50 & Culture 44 Art Eating & 54 Tohoku Update Drinking 56 52 Music Shopping & 60 Nightlife Style 64 60 LGBT LGBT 66 62 Sport Art & Culture 68 66 Film Music 70 & Hotels 68 Travel Nightlife 76 Around 71 Getting Film 81 Sushi secrets 72 Travel & Hotels 82 know 76 You Getting Around 82 you’re Cats in Tokyo when…

Thebest best It The bag Japanese nightlife Lose school in lasers yourself backpacks go viral, p42 with a round-up of the best clubs in town, p70

arty The best insider baths Tokyo’s a tips Discover sento don’t come Tokyo you didn’t prettier than this, know existed. Ourp50 guide to Golden-gai, p68

rock The best in star ‘Unbroken’ Japanese music actor Perfume Miyavi onto From his latest album, p56 Aragehonji: find out who is rocking our world, p66

J O I N T H E C O N V E R S AATT I O N O N FFAA C E B O O K , T W I T T E RR AANNDD TTHHEE TTOOKKYYOOIITTEE BBLLOOGG facebook.com/TimeOutTokyo

@TimeOutTokyo

Cover Editors Editorial Assistants Ili Saarinen Chief Content Producer Cover Editors Digital ContentRebecca Editor Morice Staff Writers AtsushiStaff Photographers Sales Assistant Photography Jun Igarashi Eri Ito Tonosaki Art Direction:by Steve Nakamura Yukako Izumi Masako Matsuzaki Ili Saarinen Yasuhisa Shimbo Tanigawa Mika Goto TaishiArtisan: Hirokawa Staff Photographers ContentKeisuke Director Sushi Takashi AokiHidetaka Furuya izumi@timeout.jp ilisaarinen@timeout.jp Kisa ToyoshimaCommercial Manabu Content Director Misaki Kawaguchi Keisuke Tanigawa & Morooka Photography: Satoshi Minakawa Tokyo Annemarie LuckRyo HaradaEditorial Assistants Kunihiro Miki Marketing Business Development Commercial & Marketing Kenta Hoshino annemarieluck@Ryo Koshirakawa Time Out Digital Mayumi KoyamaKisa Toyoshima Joyce Lam Daiki Masuda Akiko Toya Akiko Toya Time Out Tokyo Inc. timeout.jp Universal House, President/Publisher Kosuke ShimizuTakuroh Toyama Aisté Riabovaité Administration 5-9-9-101 Hiroo, Yasuhisa Shimbo President/Publisher 5-9-9-101 Hiroo,Shibuya, Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0012 251 Tottenham Road, London, Planning EditorYuka Yamazaki Ando HiroyukiCourt Fushitani Designers Shiori Kotaki HiroyukiMomo www.timeout.jp Sales Assistants Fushitani +81 (0)3 5792 5721 W1T 7AB www.timeout.com, Ryoko Baba Yu Miyakoshi Distribution Chairman Yuki Masuko Daiki Masuda Jun Harada Chairman Advertising and general enquiries: www.timeout.jp +44 (0)20 7813Hasegawa 3000 ryokobaba@timeout.jp info@timeout.jp Annemarie Miho Luck MorozumiIkuko Hirahara Hiroshi Takaki Hasegawa Matsuda Hiroshi Takuroh Toyama Advertising and general enquiries: info@timeout.jp

CHEAP EATS: SATOSHI MINAKAWA, GIRL WITH RANDOSERU: JESSIE/PIXTA, SENTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA, MIYAVI: MANABU OLYMPICS: GETTYMOROOKA, IMAGES OSAKA FOOD: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

The best best new of The Osaka Your restaurants guide to Japan’s Which new food cheap p70 placeseats to trycapital, in 2014? We’ll tell you! p48

blogs.timeout.jp/en

Editor International Content International Becky Lucas DirectorContent Director Sub Editor Tayna Jackson MarcusMarcus Webb Webb Writer Flo Wales Bonner International Editor Head of Global Contributing Editor Chris Bourn Content James International Art Director Chris Bourn TimeHadfield Out Digital Editor Designers Patrick AnthonyGlobal Huggins Universal House, Ellen Hardy McNamee, Tom Court Havell Production 251 Tottenham Road, London, International Art Picture Researcher Dave W1T 7AB www.timeout.com, Katie Mulhern--Bhudia, Director Isidora O’Neill Faulkner, Adam Lee Davies +44 (0)20 7813 3000 Anthony Huggins

International Managing International Director Managing David Woodley Director Chief Woodley Technical Officer David David Cook CEO Tim Arthur Group Marketing Director Founder Tony Elliott Carolyn Sims CEO Tim Arthur Chairman-Founder Tony Elliott

App a vailab for fre le throu e g iTune h the s stor e.

Foryour yourfull, full, up-to-the-minute up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 5 For

CITY FAQ

Are Japan’s youth really sexless? Or are they just tired, like the rest of the world?

oogle ‘Japan celibacy syndrome’ and you’ll find pages of articles questioning if the country’s declining population can be blamed on a declining interest in sex. In 2013, ‘The Guardian’ quoted love and sex counsellor Ai Aoyama as saying the country is experiencing a ‘flight from intimacy’. It also cited a 2013 survey by the Japan Family Planning Association (JFPA), which found that 45 percent of women aged 16 to 24 ‘were not interested in or despised sexual contact’. This year, it’s the men’s turn to be in the spotlight as JFPA’s latest survey was released in February and estimates that 30 percent of young Japanese men have had no sexual experience before the age of 24, which

is the highest age ever reported. And 44.6 percent of married couples are ‘sexless’. The big question is why. Survey participants blamed a negative working and social environment, with 21.3 percent of men saying they are ‘tired because of work’ (by comparison, 17.8 percent of females gave this reason). Dr Kunio Kitamura, chairman of JFPA, said it was a trend that people who worked over 49 hours a week tended to be sexless. Kitamura also offered another possible reason, saying that males may no longer be finding benefits in marriage, especially since these days women could potentially earn more than men, which may leave men feeling emasculated.

For full city listings, go to www.timeout.com/tokyo

TOKYO LOVES…

Fujisan Egg Cup The latest must-have item for Fuji freaks is Hachiman Kasei’s egg cup line, available in eight different colours. Use white eggs to get that snow-capped peak effect. ¥864 each from tinyurl.com/TOTfuji-egg

Kabuki-inspired tees Uniqlo has teamed up with Shochiku Co, a major Kabuki theatre company in Japan, to create the Shochiku Kabuki X Uniqlo Collection, which aims to give a pop culture spin on Japanese traditions. In stores now.

6 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Golden Week’s waterslide Slide The City, the US-born project specialising in huge urban waterslides, is bringing one of its 300m monsters to Tokyo in May. Here’s hoping they return for summer. tinyurl.com/TOTwaterslide

WHAT YOU SAID

We asked readers to chime in on why Japan’s youth and couples might be turning sexless. We’re not sure about the tofu, though…

‘In Japan there is no need for a relationship with a girl because of the abundance of sex establishments!’ ‘Sexism. Women are valued more for what they look like than what they think and feel.’ ‘It’s because of the stiff traditional values and gender stereotypes that leave men confused. Also, the stigma towards homosexuality. These taboos are creating barriers for conversations about sex even between couples.’ ‘Porn variety and abundance.’ ‘Men not knowing how to do it properly; women not wanting men who don’t know how to do it properly.’ ‘Probably related to work, but also inherent shyness, which isn’t offset by traditions like arranged marriage anymore.’ ‘Too much tofu, which contains high doses of female hormones.’

CITY FAQ: WAVEBREAKMEDIA/PIXTA

Tokyo update

SAKURA APPS Become a cherry blossom expert

HANAMI SAKURA Best for Brushing up on the history, traditions and festivities How does it work? There are four main categories: ‘Where and How’ tells you when to expect the blossoms depending on where you are in Japan (and other countries); ‘Traditions’ takes you through associated history, symbolism, food and decorations; ‘Blossom Trees’ describes 10 different types of trees; and ‘Sakura’ features a library of images with easy sharing function. Get it Free from the App store.

Where in Tokyo is this? Every issue we’ll show you a picture of a Tokyo location that you may or may not recognise. We’ll reveal where this photo was taken in our Photo of the Day series at www.timeout.com/tokyo. This photo’s clue: if you’re travelling on the Oedo line, you might’ve seen this structure designed by architect Makoto Sei Watanabe. But can you tell us which station it’s in?

June 18 is Onigiri Day A sock drawer full of sushi

WHERE IN TOKYO IS THIS?: ROBERT KIRSCH, ONIGIRI: JOYCE LAM

So you’ve got your sushi suitcase cover, your sushi cellphone cover, your sushi keyring… what’s left? But of course, these sushi socks made by Sukeno Co, which not only feature a sushi-inspired pattern but also roll up to look like masuzushi (trout sushi), shrimp, octopus, red caviar, tuna, salmon or egg. Also bound to inspire a wealth of bad jokes. Available for around ¥500 at souvenir shops, sushi bars and hotels around Japan, as well as from otakumode.com.

The staple ‘cheap eat’ of Japan, the onigiri is the equivalent of that peanut butter-on-white bread sandwich you took to school as a kid. But why does Japan devote an entire day to this fast food? Well, on June 18, 1987, clumps of carbonised rice thought to be from a rice ball were discovered at Ishikawa prefecture’s Sugitani Chanobatake Remains, which date back to the Yayoi period (300BCE-300CE). Apparently archaeologists even discovered imprints from human fingers on the rice grains. So this proves just how ingrained the rice ball is in Japanese history. For more facts, visit tinyurl.com/TOTonigiri

SAKURA JAPAN Best for Beautiful photos and video footage How does it work? Search for the cherry blossom viewing spot you want, then click on it to access hi-res imagery, videos and Wiki library info. Get it ¥236 from the App store. CHERRY BLOSSOMS BEST SPOTS IN TOKYO Best for Mapping your hanami hunt How does it work? You can search by area, and then click on ‘Info’ to bring up recommended viewing dates, number of trees and contact details. Click on ‘Map’ to see where you are and create your own route, which you can save for later. It also has a button promising to bring up a list of nearby hotels, but this function didn’t seem to be working at the time of going to print. Hopefully it’ll be added soon. Get it Free from the App store.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 7

The matsuri veteran

hen a festival has been going on for over 700 years, you know there’s something special about it. That sure is the case with Asakusa’s Sanja Matsuri, an annual celebration that draws more than 1.8 million visitors over three days in May. Taking part comes naturally to locals of all ages – just like it did to a young Shoichiro Nagano back in the ’30s, when he got his first taste of matsuri action. Now 85 years old, he’s spent dozens of days carrying the mikoshi (portable shrines), although today he focuses more on facilitating. Nagano has seen the event change with the times: ‘Back in the day, we didn’t have any real rules. People rode the mikoshi, onlookers mixed with the participants – it was intense fun. However, the festival started to attract participants from all over the country and things got out of hand: some folks would even show up in loincloths, showing off their tattoos and making a scene. Because of that, the police now set strict limits for what can be done, and we make sure everyone keeps their hanten (festival coat) on.’ For onlookers, the Sanja Matsuri can be overwhelming: there aren’t enough viewing spots to accommodate everyone, and getting too close to the carriers can result in bruising or worse. Then, what’s a newbie to do? Nagano says, ‘Take a look at our website (www.sanjasama.jp) – we put out real-time GPS information telling you exactly where the mikoshi are at any given time. That’ll help you navigate the crowds.’ For details about Sanja Matsuri 2015, go to tinyurl.com/ TOTsanja2015

8 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

She wore cherry blossoms in her hair

Here’s a novel yet traditional way of celebrating sakura season: wear the cherry blossoms. This exquisite hairpin is part of an original line of handcrafted kanzashi (hair ornaments traditionally worn with kimonos) by Tokyo-based artist Sakae. She began designing the hairpins nine years ago after thinking how much prettier modern kimono wearers would look if they added these accessories to their outfits. Sakae began researching the American Dip Flower technique and bought a book to help her learn the skill. She fashions the incredibly realistic petals out of the liquid resin. She then colours them with her own secret technique and adds a thin brass wire to outline and hold everything together. It takes between three and 30 days to make one item, with the sakura (cherry blossom) hairpiece – which is her favourite to make – taking 100 hours. Her hairpins sell for between ¥100,000 and ¥500,000, and are only available in Japan – for now. For more info, visit sakaefly.exblog. jp. To purchase one of Sakae’s kanzashi, watch her Facebook page (www.facebook.com/ KanzashiSakae.fanfan) for updates on Yahoo Auction sales.

Read our full interview with Sakae at tinyurl. com/TOTsakae

LOCAL LEGEND: KISA TOYOSHIMA, HAIRPINS: RYOUKAN ABE (WWW.RYOUKAN-ABE.COM)

Local legends #6

Three reasons to buy a cotton husband

apan has long been known for its ultra realistic love dolls – news reports even claim that love doll brothels are booming here.There are also plenty of more vanilla options for men who don’t want to go all the way, including the infamous Hizamakura Lap Pillow, which started a craze when it was launched in the mid-2000s (now sold out). But we think women deserve a little pillow companionship too, which is why we’ve scoured the Net to find the best boyfriend pillow from Japan. Here’s why we think you should give Bibi Lab’s new Watadanna (‘cotton husband’) a whirl. (And yes, they have cotton wives too.)

You get the full-body experience Unlike rival Boyfriend Body Pillow, which only gives you half a torso and an arm to snuggle up to, Bibi Lab offers Watadanna, a life-sized hugger (okay, he’s only 165cm tall and 2.9kg in weight, but still). He is filled with the same material used in stuffed toys, so he’s soft and comfy too.

You can teach him how to dress Watadanna comes with a standard yellow fleece onesie, but this can easily be unzipped and removed if you’d prefer your cushion man to dress in, say, a cosy jumper and skinny jeans. Worried about how you’ll explain him to Mum when she drops by unexpectedly? No problem, you can hang him in your wardrobe, neatly out of sight.

He deters burglars and watches rom-coms Watadanna is so much more than just a bed pillow. One of the benefits listed on Bibi Lab’s website is Watadanna’s imposing silhouette. Simply place him in front of your lounge window and burglars will walk on by. Also, he won’t complain if you sit him down on the couch and watch a box set of Nicholas Sparks movies. Watadanna is available on Amazon for around ¥8,000. For more info, go to www.bibilab.jp

Tokyo is a noisy city

LIKE A HOWLING BABY

SECRET CITY: JOYCE LAM

LIKE WHITE NOISE

LIKE MUSIC TO OUR EARS

But not all of it is noise pollution. See if you agree with our rating of the most commonly heard sounds around town.

Birdsong on train platforms The 5pm song You’ll hear it at the bottom of the Originally a bell to tell workers and kids staircase. Sometimes it’s a frog croak. it was time to return home, but it's now It’s meant for helping the visually become a way of checking that the impaired, but we just like pretending emergency announcement system there’s a tree underground. works. At least it’s a song not a siren.

Talking escalators Garbage trucks Again, it's for helping the visually impaired, We could do without this noisy so we feel a tad guilty for badmouthing wake-up call, but at least if you’ve it. But really, if you're wearing Crocs, you forgotten to take your garbage out, deserve to get your foot caught. you've got time to run downstairs.

Cicadas in summer So loud you have to shout to be heard over their ear-bleeding mating call.

Store promotions with BGM Hungover? Don't go near ABC Mart on sale days.

Railway crossing chimes One of the most commonly heard daily city sounds. See if you can pick it up in Japanese films (go to page 68 for recommended movies).

Ramen slurping You’ve probably been taught that slurping is rude, but here it’s polite and a sign you're enjoying your meal, so join in.

Campaign vans Their echoing protests and promotions make us feel neither fired up nor desperate to buy the album.

SECRET CITY Attractions off the beaten track

Nakagin Capsule Tower You might recognise this futuristic celllike building as the love hotel in ‘The Wolverine’. In real life, it is a rare remaining example of Metabolism – a post-war Japanese architectural movement that dreamed of cities filled with structures that would keep growing and evolving, like living organisms. Completed in 1972, Nakagin Capsule Tower has 140 apartments (although at 10㎡ each, you can hardly call them that), but only half of them are still used today, mostly as office or storage space. You can rent out a capsule on Airbnb for around ¥9,000 per night (tinyurl.com/ TOTnakagin-stay). 8-16-10 Ginza, Chuo. tinyurl.com/TOTnakagin Nakamise Dori (early AM or late PM) There’s actually nothing secret about this 250m-long shopping arcade that connects Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate) to Sensoji Temple. But if you pop by before or after the opening hours (8am-8pm), you’ll experience a colourful world of painted rolling doors instead of the stalls that normally bring this strip to life. Drawings of traditional festivals and ukiyo-e images line the street, which stays lit up until 11pm. Asakusa Station. tinyurl.com/TOTnakamisedori Izu Oshima Want to see where Godzilla was imprisoned in the ’80s? Izu Oshima (literally ‘big island’) forms part of a group of volcanic islands – collectively known as the Izu Islands – and is technically part of Tokyo. It makes a good exotic hiking and hot springs weekend trip as you can get there via an eight-hour overnight ferry or a two-hour high-speed jet ferry. Make it all the way to the dormant Mt Mihara volcano and you’ll get perfect sea views. Tokai Kisen ferry info: www.tokaikisen.co.jp/english

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 9

The world of dating in 2015

THE WORST THING ABOUT DATING IN… Tokyo, Japan: ‘So many of the beds are twin-sized.’ Female, 20-24

Shenzhen, China: ‘Marriage is talked about on date number three.’

We asked more than 11,000 people in 25 cities to take the Time Out global dating survey 2015. See how Tokyo compares…

Male, 30-34

THE BEST CITY IN THE WORLD FOR DATING IS…

PARIS

...which scores 83 out of 100 based on Parisians’ attitudes towards their dating scene and the proportion of Parisian singles who took part in the survey. Quelle surprise?

01. PARIS 02. MELBOURNE 03. KUALA LUMPUR 04. BEIJING 05. CHICAGO 06. LONDON 07. NEW YORK 08. SYDNEY 09. LOS ANGELES 10. TOKYO

83 81 74 59 58 55 52 50 50 49

Copenhagen, Denmark: ‘Dating feels like a job interview.’ Female, 35-39

THE BEST THING ABOUT DATING IN… Tokyo, Japan: ‘Japanese men are polite.’ Female, 25-29

Budapest, Hungary: ‘You can meet a lot of foreigners, who are an easy catch.’ Female, 25-29

Austin, Texas: ‘There are 137 people moving in every day.’ Male, 25-29

DO YOU RESEARCH YOUR DATES ONLINE?

MOST DESPERATE CITY

NEW YORKERS ARE THE LEAST HAPPY DATERS NYC respondents currently 45% ofdating describe themselves as

‘sad to be single’. Only 20% of Tokyo men and women daters said the same. 29% ofin Tokyo go Interpol (Sydney is the most single-minded city, on their dates before with 31% of Sydneysiders saying they’re meeting. Compare this ‘proudly single’.) to 73% in Paris. 10 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

DO PICK-UP LINES WORK?

WHAT’S DATING LIKE IN YOUR CITY?

TOKYO, LONDON AND PARIS ARE ‘A CORAL REEF…’ …swimming with exotic variety but patrolled by the odd hammerhead shark’ – according to both men and women in these cities, as well as women in Hong Kong and Kuala Lumpur. Dating in New York and Chicago is ‘a fertile orchard, brimming with opportunity’ – according to men. Women in these cities say it’s ‘a warzone’. (Cities most often likened to ‘Roman orgy’ were Hong Kong and New York, by more than 25% of locals in each. Just FYI.)

THE BIG QUESTIONS

AFTER HOW MANY DATES CAN YOU OFFICIALLY DECLARE YOURSELVES TO BE AN ITEM?

HOW DO YOU RATE AS A DATE? is the average score people all over the world award themselves (three hotties in Tokyo self-rated 10/10).

7.3 Out of 10

is what people worldwide give their average date. Ouch. (Tokyoites, however, are on average parading proudly with 7.3s on their arms.)

6.5 Out of 10

Definitive answers to eternal dating questions, averaged from more than 11,000 respondents in cities all over the world…

AFTER HOW MANY DATES SHOULD YOU STOP SEEING OTHER PEOPLE?

say a resounding 84% of respondents in Tokyo. Same goes for most other cities too – pick-up lines get little airplay and littler still response… Apart from in Paris, where they’re doing a roaring trade for 1 in 3 men and 1 in 4 women.

6 1 IN 10 9 3.53 AND AFTER HOW MANY DATES IS IT APPROPRIATE TO HAVE SEX?

ALL DATING IS SPEED-DATING

… people consider sex a reasonable request at the end of the first date. But the worldwide answer is…

2-3 MINS

That’s how far into a first date before they decide whether they want a second date – say 41% of respondents worldwide, (So that’s mid fourth date, after the mains have been and over half in London, cleared and just before the crème brûlée arrives.) Chicago and LA.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 11

THINGS TOKYO NEEDS TO GET RIGHT BEFORE THE 2020 OLYMPICS We ask the experts to weigh in. Words Cal Widdall

The new stadium

Mixed in with excitement for the 2020 Summer Olympics is some heated controversy over the design of the new national stadium. It’s been going on since Londonbased architect Zaha Hadid had her proposal selected in 2012. Pritzker Prize winners Fumihiko Maki and Toyo Ito ran a petition with fellow architects to protest against Hadid’s 70m-high structure. Although she downsized, the new design has still attracted criticism, including architect Arata Isozaki’s comment that it looks like a ‘turtle waiting for Japan to sink so that it can swim away’. With construction of the new stadium set to begin in October, we asked Hadid for a comment on her design, which will seat 80,000 people and boast a retractable roof. ‘Fans will demand and receive a spectator experience of the highest quality,’ she asserts. But what happens beyond 2020? Hadid assures us: ‘The Japanese Sports Council have ensured the New National Stadium will serve Japan’s many sporting communities for generations to come, with no construction works or redevelopment required for the stadium’s use after 2020.’ Onwards and upwards, then. Read more and view the new stadium design on our blog: tinyurl. com/TOTstadium.

that we won’t necessarily get better cycling infrastructure just ‘because of the Olympics’, but he believes the games can be used to demonstrate the positive effect such infrastructure can have on the city. ‘With Tokyo’s promise of a compact Olympics, one in which all Olympic venues are a mere eight kilometres from the athletes’ village, the inclusion of cycling at the core of Olympic transport policy is essential,’ he says.

Disaster preparation

Last year, Tokyo Governor Yoichi Masuzoe cited the possibility of a disaster as his highest priority for the games, and we assume he didn’t mean another Olympics without a gold medal in men’s judo. The Disaster Prevention Division of the Bureau of General Affairs has released an overview of its plans for the 2020 games: it aims to increase the city’s resilience through the regeneration of dense neighbourhoods of wooden houses, making structures earthquake resistant, building tsunami and rain countermeasures and securing road networks.

New emblems and mascot

This is one issue we expect to be handled with aplomb – if there

were an Olympic event for producing mascots, the rest of the world would simply be scrambling for silver. Details of the selection process and timeline for a new mascot have not yet been decided, but after inviting leading agencies to enter a design competition last year, a winning emblem for Tokyo 2020 has now been selected. Before being publicly unveiled, the trademark registration needs to be finalised, as well as making a few tweaks to maximise its ‘kawaii’-ness.

Foreign language assistance

Shuichi Kameyama, Executive Director of Marketing and Promotion at the Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO), says one of the most common complaints he hears from foreign visitors is a lack of English signage and the confusing address system. Digital signboards and a multilingual call centre will be set up in the city’s most popular areas, and all buses will have multilingual displays installed – though Kameyama believes a more effective solution lies in technology and, more specifically, free wi-fi. The address system, meanwhile, will continue to confound Japanese and non-Japanese alike.

Overcrowding

Japan received over 13 million foreign visitors in 2014 and the JNTO aims to increase this number to 20 million by 2020. But how to prevent this from hindering dayto-day life for the locals? The JNTO’s Shuichi Kameyama has the answer: by shifting the focus to Japan’s lesserknown areas. Over the next six years, a large part of his job will be convincing people to swap the temples of religion and commerce in Kyoto and Tokyo for the natural scenery of places like Hokkaido and Tohoku.

Torch relay

Discussions on the 2020 torch relay will begin next year. As Tokyo 2020 executive director of communications and engagement Hidetoshi Fujisawa explains, ‘The planning will take into account Japanese culture, history and the country’s geography, and it is hoped we will pass through the disasteraffected areas in Tohoku.’ Two issues that need to be considered are symbolism and international relations – when the Olympic torch last came to Tokyo in 1964, it skipped Mainland China, Russia and the Korean peninsula. With political tensions currently high in all three, the flame could be used to rekindle ties… or spark another controversy.

Cycling infrastructure

Tokyobybike.com founder Byron Kidd is quick to point out

NOTE: STADIUM ILLUSTRATION BY TIME OUT TOKYO. FOR OFFICIAL IMAGES, VISIT TINYURL.COM/TOTSTADIUM

12 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 13

Tokyo Diary

What’s on in town April-June 2015 Make the most of the city with our editors’ picks of the best things to do over the next three months April AROUND TOWN TECHNO UDON Asakusabashi’s Tensai Sansujuku is again dragging the kitchen on to the dancefloor at this unorthodox party, where revellers can knead udon with their feet while busting moves to tunes by artists like Daito Manabe, Yasuharu Konishi and Yuichi Kishino. The noodle-making will take place in the morning from 7am and in the evening from 5pm. Apr 4 Tokyo Tower Studio, 4-4-7 Shiba-Koen, Minato. tinyurl.com/ TOTtechnoudon. Advance ¥3,000, same-day ¥3,500. FILM NEW 10AM FILM FESTIVAL Toho’s popular 10am Film Festival – a season of morning movie screenings that revisits classics such as ‘Belle de Jour’ and ‘Back to the Future’ – continues with another year of screenings. The 2015 to 2016 programme features a total of 30 films, divided up into themes like ‘The Youth of Britain’ and ‘Eternal Love’. Apr 4-Mar 18, 2016 Toho Cinemas Nihonbashi (and other theatres), 3F Coredo Muromachi 2, 2-31 Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo. tinyurl.com/TOT10amfilm. Adults ¥1,000, students ¥500. MUSIC SYNCHRONICITY Celebrating its tenth birthday, clean energy-fuelled music fest

Synchronicity returns to Shibuya in April for an afternoon of sounds from the less abrasive corners of the alternative music scene. The first lineup includes ska sixtet Your Song Is Good, Rock in Japan regulars Analogfish, laidback jazz-rockers Fox Capture Plan and funky holiday jammers Toconoma. Apr 11 Tsutaya O-East, 2-14-8 Dogenzaka, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTsynchro. Advance tickets ¥4,800. MUSIC GEORGE CLINTON AND PARLIAMENT/FUNKADELIC At 71, Parliament/Funkadelic frontman George Clinton is still rocking out. Expect outlandish costumes and plenty of politicofunk from his last record, ‘George Clinton and His Gangsters of Love’, when he brings the show to Billboard Live, a sit-down supper venue that probably won’t know what hit it. Apr 12-13 Billboard Live, 4F Tokyo Midtown Garden Terrace, 9-7-4, Akasaka, Minato. tinyurl.com/ TOTfunkadelic. Service seats ¥14,000, casual seats ¥12,000 incl. one drink. ART TOKYO ART & ANTIQUES More than 80 galleries, art shops and other arty venues in the KyobashiNihonbashi area, which is known for its impressive concentration of exhibition spaces and art-connected businesses, join forces again for this three-day celebration that’s becoming something of a staple on the spring calendar. Just strolling

14 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

the streets in search of new artistic discoveries is highly recommended, while Japanese speakers may want to attend one of the many talks and other events taking place. Apr 16-18 Takashimaya Nihonbashi, 2-4-1 Nihonbashi, Chuo. tinyurl.com/ TOTartantiques. Free. MUSIC ADRIAN SHERWOOD London-based studio wonks Mad Professor and Adrian Sherwood pushed the dub reggae genre to the outer limits. Fans can look forward to a three-pronged evening of dub domination: Sherwood himself will be playing both ‘classic DJ’ and ‘new selection’ sets, before being joined by indomitable minimal techno rockers Nisennenmondai for the highlight of the night. Apr 18 Unit, Za House Bldg, 1-3417 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya. tinyurl. com/TOTadriansherwood. Advance ¥4,500, same-day ¥5,000. AROUND TOWN EARTH DAY TOKYO Two-day eco event, where charities, NPOs and eco-conscious businesses flaunt their wares and draw new recruits, but many people just go to enjoy the art, vibes and free music. If you’re one of the capital’s longsuffering vegetarians, too, you owe it to yourself to pay a visit to the Earth Day Kitchen zone for a good selection of herbivorous eats. Apr 18-19 Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTearthtokyo. Free.

AROUND TOWN NIKUFEST – JAPAN MEAT FESTIVAL – TOKYO 2015 Every Tokyo carnivore’s favourite bash takes over Komazawa Olympic Park in May, with hordes of meat lovers gathering to munch on a wide range of goodies from all over the world. This year’s edition will be divided into two consecutive parts, each one with different restaurants exhibiting, allowing for even more gourmet variety. Complementing all the meat-chewing are craft beers and decadent desserts. Apr 24-Apr 29, May 1-May 6 1-1 Komazawa-Koen, Setagaya. tinyurl.com/TOTmeatfestival. Free.

ART ROPPONGI ART NIGHT The time has come when Roppongi stays awake for a night-long celebration of art, including a variety of exhibitions, installations and performances, curated by veteran art director Katsuhiko Hibino, while media genius Seiichi Saito (of Rhizomatiks fame) will be in charge of the visuals – including a massive ‘art truck’ decorated with blinking LEDs. The area’s art museums and galleries will stay open until dawn.

AROUND TOWN TOKYO RAINBOW PRIDE Tokyo Rainbow Week is back to celebrate LGBT pride with a host of events, including a rip-roaring parade that last year saw more than 12,000 people gather and take to the streets in fancy dress alongside floats. This year’s parade is scheduled for April 26, with a variety of booths opened in Yoyogi Park by LGBT-friendly companies and artists on the day. Apr 25-May 6 Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTrainbowpride. Free.

FILM LATIN! LATIN! LATIN! Shinjuku theatre K’s Cinema looks back at the past decade of Latin films with this ambitious special programme, consisting of 16 movies including the Cuban documentary ‘Suite Habana’ (2003) and 1968 drama ‘Lucía’.

May AROUND TOWN KOHGEN Launched in 2011, this annual event stages around 100 workshops related to traditional Japanese culture and religion, including a Noh theatre experience and classes for calligraphy and zazen meditation, plus performances ranging from electronic music to sutra recitation. Stop by the Kyoto-themed market for a bite and steel yourself at the haunted house, which will supposedly be scary enough to give even stoic Buddhist monks the chills. May 2-3 Zojoji Temple, 4-7-35 Shiba-Koen, Minato. tinyurl.com/ TOTkohgen2015. Free. MUSIC RAINBOW DISCO CLUB Held in Tokyo three times since 2010, this combo event uniting music and art packs up and moves out to the Izu Peninsula for its 2015 edition. Formerly a one-day bash, Rainbow Disco Club will now take place over an entire weekend, which should allow for a more varied lineup than the techno- and disco-heavy lists seen in past years. May 2-4 Higashi-Izu Cross Country Course, Shizuoka Prefecture. tinyurl. com/TOTrainbowdisco. ¥15,000. AROUND TOWN CINCO DE MAYO Held annually in the US to commemorate Mexico’s historic victory over France at the Battle of Puebla in 1862, the Cinco de Mayo Festival will be heading to Tokyo again this year – though, as usual,

it’s arriving a couple of days ahead of schedule. Just like last year, the mariachi bands, rockabillies, tequila bars and Tex-Mex food stands will be complemented by non-Mexican gourmet and music contributions from more than ten countries. May 3-4 Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTcincodemayo. Free.

ART & CULTURE HATONOMORI TAKIGI-NOH Hatonomori-Hachiman shrine in Sendagaya holds its annual openair takigi-noh performance. During interval, they’ll also be staging a special kyogen performance. A great opportunity to watch traditional Japanese musical drama right in the centre of Tokyo. May 8 1-1-24 Sendagaya, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTtakigi-noh. Advance ¥3,000, same-day ¥3,500. AROUND TOWN ZOMBIE WALK IN YOYOGI PARK Even the walking dead need to get a little sunshine from time to time. Tokyo’s small but growing community of zombie enthusiasts will again be gathering in Yoyogi Park – bring your rotting corpse to the big clock near the park entrance at 2pm and wait for the spooky march to begin. Do remember to follow the rules, though: no running, no swooping down on the living and – especially – no leaving body parts after you.

May 16 Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTzombiewalk. Free. AROUND TOWN THAI FESTIVAL One of the largest of Yoyogi Park’s many ethnic celebrations, the Thai Festival always seems to take place in perfect weather. Join the crowds under the dazzling May sun, fill up on Thai delicacies, browse stalls selling everything from handicrafts to Singha beer, and catch stage performances like traditional dancing, Thai rock or martial arts demonstrations. May 16-17 Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTthaifestival. Free. AROUND TOWN DESIGN FESTA VOL 41 Taking place twice every year, Design Festa is a sprawling celebration of everything from painting to performance art, with up to 10,000 creatives participating in each event. The combination of performances, international cuisine, artistic expression, diversity and passion found here is uber inspiring. May 16-17 Tokyo Big Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake, Koto. tinyurl.com/ TOTdesignfesta. Advance ¥800, same-day ¥1,000.

Tokyo Diary

AROUND TOWN GRAND WAGYU FAIR Delightfully meaty offerings from Japan’s best beef areas, including Kobe and Matsusaka, will be served in gyudon (simmered beef over rice) form at this cattle farmer gettogether in Shinjuku. Deluxe gyudon is available between April 25 and May 2, while the remainder of the event period sees the stalls switch gears and cook up yakiniku-don (grilled beef over rice) instead. Apr 25-May 10 Shinjuku Central Park, 2-11 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku. tinyurl.com/TOTgrand-wagyu. ¥1,000/bowl.

Apr 25-May 15 K’s Cinema, 3F, 3-3513 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. tinyurl.com/ TOTlatin. Adults ¥1,500, students ¥1,300, seniors ¥1,000.

FILM QUALITE FANTASTIC! CINEMA COLLECTION Stuart Murdoch’s Sundance winner ‘God Help the Girl’ (2014) opens this spring film festival, while the closing role will be played by ‘Tusk’ (2014), a blast of extreme horror entertainment directed by Kevin Smith and starring Justin Long and Haley Joel Osment. In addition to the 40 or so screenings, the festival features events and talks with industry guests. May 16-Jun 26 Cinema Qualite, B1F Nowa Bldg, 3-37-12 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. tinyurl.com/ TOTqualitecinema. New movies ¥1,500, old movies ¥1,000. Tuk Tuk not for sale But the Thai Festival is still worth a visit

THAI FESTIVAL: ROYAL THAI EMBASSY

Apr 25-26 Roppongi Hills, 6-10 Roppongi, Minato. tinyurl.com/ TOTartnight. Free (some events have entry fees).

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 15

Tokyo Diary

Robert Glasper Experiment

Tokyo Diary

to witness this sacred performance that’s listed as an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property. Jun 21 176 Mt Mitake, Ome. tinyurl. com/TOTmusashi. Free. MUSIC GREENROOM FESTIVAL This surf-themed art-and-music jamboree offers a leisurely introduction to the summer music festival season, with movie screenings and yoga sessions adding to the relaxed vibe. This year, regulars like Lotus, Tommy Guerrero, Ray Barbee and Tomoyuki Tanaka will be joined by legendary reggae orchestra The Wailers and LA’s activist jammers Ozomatli. May 23-24 Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse, 1-1 Shinko, Naka, Yokohama, Kanagawa. tinyurl. com/TOTgreenroom. One-day pass ¥9,800, two-day pass ¥17,000. AROUND TOWN KOMAZAWA OKTOBERFEST One of the better-attended versions of Tokyo’s extra-seasonal Bavarian beer fests, this one in Setagaya’s Komazawa Park doesn’t really bring anything original to the table: you’ll find the familiar sausages, oompah music and quality German beer served from hefty glass tankards, plus contributions from Japanese craft breweries – exactly what the masses desire. May 29-Jun 7 1-1 KomazawaKoen, Setagaya. tinyurl.com/ TOTkomazawafest. Free.

June MUSIC ROBERT GLASPER EXPERIMENT Taking time out of his busy postTaico Club schedule for four nights of Tokyo gigs, innovative pianist and producer Robert Glasper brings his ‘Experiment’ to Roppongi’s Billboard Live in early June. Having made waves on the jazz scene with the Grammy-winning ‘Black Radio’ and its sequel ‘Black Radio 2’, the Houston native has a strong following in Japan. Jun 2-5 Billboard Live, 4F Tokyo Midtown Garden Terrace, 9-7-4, Akasaka, Minato. tinyurl.com/ TOTrobertglasper. Service seats ¥9,400, casual seats ¥7,400 incl. one drink. AROUND TOWN MUSASHI MITAKE-JINJA: MUSIC AND DANCE PERFORMANCE Musashi Mitake Shrine holds its triennial performance of traditional Japanese music and dance. Handed down through generations since the Edo period, this Shinto dance and music performance is a compelling ritual not usually open to the public, but this event gives us the chance

Komazawa Oktoberfest

16 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

AROUND TOWN CANDLE NIGHT @ ZOJOJI ‘Turn off the lights, take it slow’ is the motto of Candle Night, which first began back in 2003 and encourages people to relax and mellow out, turning off the lights and lighting candles instead. Zozoji Temple has always been at the heart of the event, hosting live music performances as part of the occasion. Jun 21 4-7-35 Shiba Koen, Minato. tinyurl.com/TOTcandlenight. Free.

Candle NIght @ Zojoji Temple

Courtesy calls Etiquette made easy

No 6 How to job hunt like a Tokyoite The rules are not meant to be broken, says Grace Buchele Mineta. Illustration Bunny Bissoux

t’s that time of year again. The streets of Tokyo are flooded with students in black suits. You see them everywhere, scribbling notes at train stations or carefully filling in ‘entry sheets’ for hours at cafés. Shukatsu (job hunting) in Japan is notoriously time-consuming and difficult, even for someone born and raised here. So you can imagine how hard it is for a foreign student to get the hang of the process, regardless of their level of Japanese. Shukatsu generally takes a year, with prime job-hunting candidates – ie. third- or fourth-year university students – beginning the application process in April (the start of the academic year), going through countless rounds of interviews, and then commencing work the following April. Several of my Japanese friends actually delayed their graduation after a failed season of job hunting because it’s easier to get a job offer as a ‘super senior’ than as a graduate. For me, it was stressful and degrading. I don’t handle rejection well, and job hunting in Tokyo, especially as a student, can make you feel like you are only worthy of respect if you get an employment offer from a large, well-known company. Here are my tips to help you avoid the pitfalls. DO ARM YOURSELF WITH KNOWLEDGE Walk into any bookstore and you will find dozens of titles on job hunting in Japan, covering topics such as proper attire, how to fill in an ‘entry sheet’, and the expected responses to commonly asked questions in group interviews. If your Japanese isn’t good enough or you don’t feel like shelling out the yen, you can also find countless free English resources online. Make sure you hand-write every entry sheet, affix a professional photo to the top of every CV, get your hair cut in an

approved style, and attend the presentations of every company you think might be a good fit. DON’T TRY TO STAND OUT IN A COLOURFUL SUIT If you want to score the ‘informal job offer’ that later becomes an ‘official offer of employment’, you have to look the part, down to the finest details. My (Japanese) husband, Ryosuke, swears recruiters can tell where you purchased your suit with a single glance. You are going to have to buy a proper Japanese jobhunting suit as well as the correct shoes, bag, belt, tie and white dress shirt. Some people might tell you Japan is changing and that you should show your originality by choosing a non-black suit. Unless you know for sure that the company you’re applying at is more casual, I think that’s a bad idea. When given

the option of choosing between someone who is interesting and someone who is safe, Japanese companies will almost always go with the latter. DON’T WING IT My husband is a special snowflake. He is outgoing with a unique sense of humour. He didn’t do too well in his first few months of job hunting. Finally, he decided to just answer each question as the job-hunting books advise, word for word. He received two offers of employment that month. To successfully job hunt in Japan, he tells me, you need to convince the company that you’re willing to give everything you’ve got for the sake of the firm, including putting up with unpaid overtime, mandatory drinking parties, and the stress of adopting the ‘salaryman’ lifestyle.

DON’T ACCEPT A POSITION THAT FEELS ‘OFF’ Before you say yes to a job offer, check the company’s reputation online. Be on the lookout for ‘black companies’ that hire students in large numbers and then weed out the weak ones through horrible working conditions and emotional stress. Type the company name + ブラック企業 into Google and see what comes up. If possible, talk to current (or previous) employees of the company. If your gut tells you something might not work out, walk away. Yes, it’s scary saying no to a sure thing, but you only get one chance to job hunt (as a prime candidate) in Tokyo. For more on city life news and culture, see blogs.timeout.jp/en

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 17

Promotional feature

Community manager at Gengo, 27

LOCAL INSIGHT

What does ‘community manager’ mean, actually? Gengo is a startup company that offers a translation platform. My role is to build, grow and manage our community of over 14,000 translators living and working all around the world. I am the ‘voice’ of the translator and ensure that their feedback and opinions are heard within the company so we can improve and build upon our product. How do you find working with different cultures? Over 12 different nationalities are represented in our Tokyo office. The diversity allows me to be more appreciative of our differences and open to learning from my colleagues. Diversity in a company helps us become more innovative. There are also plenty of funny moments when small misunderstandings happen. What has working in Tokyo taught you? Working in Tokyo is great! It has opened up many opportunities for me and I feel much more willing to take a risk and try something new. I have learnt how important communication skills are and how important work-life balance really is – it’s essential for success in a fast-paced city. What is it like working at a startup? Unlike other startups in Japan, Gengo is more global, diverse and open. Startups are fast-paced, which has pushed me to learn how to make decisions quickly and to complete tasks efficiently. I feel I’ve learned more within a few months here than I would at another company because you need to be able to juggle tasks. There is no hand holding. Recommended cheap eats in Tokyo? The Oreno chain of restaurants offers really cheap and delicious fresh food. They offer French, Italian and Japanese food, and only have a few seats so it’s kind of a standing restaurant. Have you ever tried cooking washoku? Yes! My boyfriend and I have cooked nabe, sukiyaki, nikujaga, curry and gyoza. We have even made our own umeshu (plum liqueur), which took months of patience! I always look forward to winter when I get my big pot out and make nabe for friends. Which programmes on NHK World do you find most helpful as a foreigner? I really like Cool Japan. It highlights interesting, and often funny, points about Japan. It taught me, for example, that crossing your legs in a business meeting is considered rude! Any survival tips for city visitors? Don’t be afraid to try new things, especially food. Japanese people will go out of their way to help you, so don’t be scared of the language barrier. You will realise it is actually very small after a few beers with locals in an izakaya!

IMAGE: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

I,TOKYO Megan Waters

When did you first feel like a Tokyoite? I have lived in Tokyo for almost four years but only bought a bicycle about eight months ago. I first felt like a Tokyoite after getting on my bicycle and cycling around the city – it helped me get to know street names and really experience the sights, sounds and smells of the city.

To find out how you can get NHK WORLD TV 24/7 in your country, on

Domo NHK mascot

©NHK-TYO

Cook like a I, GLOBAL Tokyoite

Domo tries his hand at rolled sushi

Tips for making washoku

o you dream of reproducing the superb flavours of renowned Tokyo restaurants or the homely flavours of a Tokyoite’s household? Besides being delicious, Japanese cuisine holds the bestkept secrets to longevity, but it’s not always that simple to make. Here, we’ll introduce the ABCs (and D) of Japanese cooking, from rolled sushi to tempura and udon noodles.

A ce the rice

your ook from B roaden C stock horizons scratch

You can’t go wrong with a Japanese rice cooker, but you can also cook rice to perfection in a pot. 1. Wash the rice gently three or four times. 2. Soak the rice for 30 minutes if it’s summer and one hour if it’s winter. 3. Place the soaked rice in a pot, cover it with water and cover with a lid. Cook for three minutes on high. 4. When the water boils, turn the heat down and cook for about 10 minutes on low. 5. Leaving the lid on, turn the heat off and let the rice ‘steam’ for 10 minutes. 6. Stir and serve. 7. Say ‘itadakimasu’ before digging in.

Dashi stock provides great depth to your dishes. The most basic dashi is made with dried bonito flakes and kelp. By taking the time to prepare this simple stock, you can make a versatile soup that can be used in a variety of dishes such as stews, miso soup, hotpots and the like. For a step-by-step guide, visit www.nhk. or.jp/dwc/recipes/detail/dashi.html

D inethewithchef Once you’ve mastered the ABCs, it’s time to learn how to prepare some specific dishes. Sound daunting? In fact, this is where it gets really easy. Just turn on the TV. ‘Dining with the Chef’ is a popular cooking programme on NHK World TV featuring Japanese cuisine experts who show you how to prepare casual, homemade dishes. The featured recipes are also available on the programme’s website, so you can refer back to them when you need to.

In the same way that the basic ingredients for Italian food are garlic and olive oil, the basic flavours of Japanese food are soy sauce, mirin (sweet sake) and sake. Mix dashi stock with soy sauce, mirin and sake, and season with salt and sugar to prepare stews, vegetable side dishes, fried dishes, and more. These ingredients serve as a basis for pretty much any dish. Although, of course, it’s also fun to get creative and experiment with different flavours to develop new dishes.

ing th is Try mak n er as a din i h s u s rolled Detailed r. e rt ta party s at vailable recipe a wc d / jp r. .o k www.nh

Shoews Fri 11.30pm, Sat 5.30am, 11.10am, 5.10pm (Japan Standard Time) tim

‘Dining with the Chef’ host Rika Yukimasa leading a travel cookery class in Thailand in February 2015 in which she showed viewers how to prepare rolled sushi using local ingredients.

More TV shows for aspiring washoku masters

This programme offers insights into what nine to fivers eat for lunch. Discover what the professionals of the world eat as they go about their jam-packed working days.

Focuses on the Japanese food found at Tokyo’s iconic Tsukiji market, where you’ll find every kind of fresh food from around the country.

your TV, computer or mobile device, visit www.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/

Japan boasts a wide variety of fresh produce and quality food. Find out how and where it’s all made. Plus: master chefs reveal their special recipes!

20 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Being thrifty doesn’t have to mean missing out on all the amazing food this city can offer. Time Out Group Food & Drink Editor Guy Dimond joins Time Out Tokyo in rounding up a top selection of affordable dishes and snacks from our favourite izakayas, Tsukiji fish market stalls, standing bars, ekiben and more. Just in time for spring’s brighter days and jovial nights. CONTRIBUTORS YASUHISA SHIMBO, KISA TOYOSHIMA

ART DIRECTION STEVE NAKAMURA SUSHI ARTISAN TAKASHI AOKI PHOTOGRAPHY SATOSHI MINAKAWA SUSHI BOWL SHOT AT: Sushi & Vege Japanese Cuisine Aoki Ginza There aren’t many sushi shops that boast their own in-house ‘vegetable sommelier’, but Takashi Aoki (who styled the sushi bowl featured here and on the cover) doesn’t aspire to be ordinary. This upmarket restaurant serves up high quality sushi shipped directly from Suruga Bay, while Aoki picks seasonal produce for the vegetable sushi and bagna càuda. 3-4-7 Ginza, Chuo. 03 6228 6436. sushiandvege.com

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 21

JAPANESE FOOD UNDER ¥1,000

[CHEAP EATS]

Ten-don at Kaneko Hannosuke, Nihonbashi

From ¥950

Nothing to do with sinews, ten-don is the shorthand way of saying tempura-don – battered morsels, deep-fried and served on rice. Freshly fried tempura is placed on top of the rice in a china bowl and doused with tentsuyu, a hot broth, and served with miso soup. The best tempura-ya we’ve found is Kaneko Hannosuke – so good, customers don’t mind the hour-long waits. 1-11-15 Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo (Mitsukoshimae, Shin-Nihonbashi stations). 03 3243 0707. Mon-Fri 11am-10pm (last order 9.30pm), Sat-Sun 10am-9pm (last order 8.30pm). Full review at tinyurl.com/TOTkaneko

Gyoza at Minmin, Akasaka From ¥540

Gyoza (aka Chinese dumplings) is normally eaten with soy sauce, but this family-run Chinese restaurant puts a twist on tradition by serving it with vinegar and pepper. It’s juicy on the inside and crispy golden brown on the outside. Perfect paired with a beer. 8-7-4 Akasaka, Minato (Nogizaka, Aoyama-itchome stations). 11.30am-1.55pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm (last order 9.30pm), closed Sun & hols. tinyurl. com/TOTminmin

Ramen at Kikanbo, Kanda From ¥800

Few dishes have such a fanatical following as ramen. Not a single dish, but a family of disparate approaches to cooking Chinese-style egg and wheat flour noodles, ramen can be served in a soup of pork or chicken stick flavoured with shoyu (soy sauce), miso, or in many variations of stock. Toppings might include slices of grilled pork, bamboo shoots, slices of boiled fish paste (naruto). Many ramen bars have hipster followings, such as the ‘devil ramen’ bar Kikanbo, known for its strong spicing. 2-10-10 Kajicho, Chiyoda (Kanda Station). 03 3256 2960. 11am-9.30pm, Sun 11am-4pm. Full review at tinyurl. com/TOTkikanbo 22 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

[CHEAP EATS]

Takoyaki at Gindaco, major stations From ¥550

These fried balls of dough are made in cast iron griddles indented like egg cartons, which allow the batter to be turned by hand into perfect spheres. Takoyaki originate from Osaka, but are now usually bought from yatai (street stalls) which cluster around parks, fairgrounds and shrines on festival days. The Gindaco chain have simply brought takoyaki indoors, developed a special crispy texture, and opened a branch near you (look out for it at major stations including Akihabara, Roppongi, Ueno, Harajuku, Shibuya and Shinagawa). Full review at tinyurl.com/TOTgindaco

Soba at Kanda Yabu Soba, Kanda From ¥670

Tokyoites love their ramen, but they also use their noodles and vary the ingredients and techniques when making pasta. Noodles made with buckwheat flour in the wheat flour mix are called soba, and have a browner colour and different texture. The delicately flavoured soba is often served cold, and ‘dry’; you then dip in a broth. Kanda Yabu Soba has traditional elegance and good soba. 2-10 Kanda-Awajicho, Chiyoda (Kanda Station). 03 3251 0287. 11.30am-9pm (last order 8pm), closed Wed (except for hols). Full review at tinyurl.com/TOTkanda-soba

Katsu kare at Kitchen Nankai, Jinbocho Curry, or more specifically ‘kare-raisu’ (curry rice) has a long tradition in Japan, and is sometimes served accompanying the breaded and deep-fried pork staple, tonkatsu. Together, they are called katsu kare. Kitchen Nankai makes an exemplar of its type. 1-5 KandaJinbocho, Chiyoda (Jinbocho Station). 03 3292 0036. 11.15am-4pm, 5pm-8pm, closed Sun & hols. Full review at tinyurl.com/TOTnankai

All of these dishes are described and the venues reviewed in more detail in our online feature, ‘The best cheap eats in Tokyo’, at www.timeout.com/tokyo.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 23

SOBA: KEISUKE TANIGAWA, ALL OTHER IMAGES: YASUHISA SHIMBO

¥750

[CHEAP EATS]

EKIBEN The most convenient lunch ever

kiben are takeaway bento boxes sold at railway stations, for both holidaymakers and long-distance commuters to enjoy on the journey. They are invariably pretty and varied, and are frequently works of art. First sold in the 1880s, when Japan’s railway system was established, they were created based on the long train trips people needed to take in those days. Buy just one box and you get a taste of special foods from around Japan.

Tohoku Seafood ‘Chirashi’ ¥1,080

In addition to salted salmon roe, scallop, mackerel and wakame (edible seaweed) from the Tohoku region sprinkled on top of sushi rice, this unusual, beautiful bowl of rice is also topped with sweet pickled shrimp and shredded crab meat.

Beef Box Lunch

¥1,050

Meat cravers will love this combo of sukiyakistyle salty sweet stewed beef (on the left) and soboro (minced) beef (on the right), which has been prepared in the Kanto style. Enjoy eating these with the thoughtful little side of egg and Japanese pickled vegetables.

24 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Makunouchi Bento ¥1,050

This traditional bento is a staple of Japanese lunchboxes with a range of side dishes served with white rice. There are various theories about the origin of the name, but a popular one holds that this bento was eaten during intermissions at a theatre performance when the curtain (maku) closed. The bed of rice is topped with a sour pickled plum, which is meant to represent the Japanese flag, the Hinomaru (‘Circle of the Sun’). The box includes a range of heavy-hitting favourites like salted king salmon, sweet omelette and chicken meatballs with teriyaki sauce. Each is packed with flavour and pairs well with the rice.

[CHEAP EATS]

Daruma Bento

¥1,000

This local box is sold at train stations in Takasaki, Gunma Prefecture and takes inspiration from the daruma doll, a well-known part of Japanese culture styled after the Buddhist monk Bodhidharma. The rice is boiled in soy sauce and topped with chicken, vegetables, mushrooms and bamboo shoots. It may not be the most showy of bento meals, but it offers delicate flavours of authentic Japanese cuisine. Once done, use the plastic container as a coin bank.

Chicken Bento

¥850

Gomoku Wappa Meshi ¥950

With ingredients such as grilled chicken and veg, egg slices and green dried seaweed, this bento brings together ‘food of the mountains’ and ‘food of the sea’. So you get the best of both worlds. Don’t you love the flower-shaped carrot?

The bento boxes featured here are available at Tokyo Station’s ekiben shops: Matsuri, Odori and Nippon no Ekiben. For more ekiben, go to tinyurl.com/TOTekiben

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WORDS: YASUHISA SHIMBO AND YUKAKO IZUMI. IMAGES: YASUHISA SHIMBO

The Chicken Bento had its start back in 1964 when the Tokaido Shinkansen opened for service. This was originally a lunch box that the train’s cook prepared for passengers. The fragrant fried chicken is delicious even if served cold, the pasta salad pairs well and the rice is lightly flavoured with tomato sauce, creating a Japanese classic that riffs off Western rice dishes.

[CHEAP EATS]

Tsukiji Yamacho Our shop has been here for six years. When the market relocates, we plan to open another store near the new fish market, but we hope that the stores remaining here will build themselves into a lively place that continues to attract customers. We think the commercial district outside the market should launch its own uniquely attractive brands. It’s important for people to know that Tsukiji will still offer the most delicious food. WHAT TO EAT ¥100 egg omelette on a skewer. 4-16-2 Tsukiji, Chuo (Tsukiji Station). 03 3248 6002. www.yamachou-matue.jp. 6am-3.30pm.

CATCH THEM WHILE YOU T CAN!

Tsukiji central market is relocating next year. But what’s going to happen to the people running the street stalls and restaurants in the outer market? We went round to ask them how they feel about the move he lively Tsukiji market has become one of Tokyo’s must-visit sites, attracting not only foreign tourists, but also visitors from within Japan, eager to get a glimpse – and perhaps taste – of the freshest seafood in the city. The crowds of visitors have brought plenty of changes to the market – beyond the piled-high stacks of tuna, jumbo crabs and other deep sea delicacies, you’ll now find an increasingly large number of shops selling street snacks to hungry tourists, eager to sample the enticing seafood on offer. As Tsukiji market is to close – the seafood market will relocate to Toyosu, a mile and a half away, in 2016 – the future of the street traders is still uncertain, so catch them while you can.

Sanoki-ya We’ve been at Tsukiji for six years and we’re planning to stay put even after the market relocates. WHAT TO EAT Their ‘Maguro’ (¥200), which is actually taiyaki (a fish-shaped dessert with sweet red bean paste), and ‘Toro’ (¥220), made from apricots and sweet red bean paste. 4-11-9 Tsukiji, Chuo (Tsukiji Station). 03 3543 3331. tinyurl.com/ TOTsanoki. Mon-Sat 7am-3pm, closed Sun & market hols.

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[CHEAP EATS]

Tsukugon, Monzeki Bridge I can’t predict what’s going to happen in the future, and I do feel anxious about it, but we’ve been open for business here since 1989 and we will get by one way or another. There are push over to fix spacing to open a new fish market here and my opinion is it will be better to keep the fish market and the outer market together. WHAT TO EAT The ‘Chiyoda’ (¥280), which is onion wrapped in bacon, and the ‘Bacon Cheese Single’ (¥230). 4-12-5 Tsukiji, Chuo (Tsukiji Station). 03 3542 0181. www.tsukugon.co.jp. 6am-3pm.

Kibun I would like this shop to be a place that customers keep visiting even when the fish market moves. I want to protect Tsukiji as a place where only truly delicious food is sold. I will continue to value our steady customers who visit over and over again. WHAT TO EAT Given an extra garnish at the shop, the freshly kneaded eats served here are all top quality and created with the aim of drawing out the original flavours of the ingredients. Try the ‘Tsukiji Fry (Isobe)’, crab-flavoured surimi seafood, for ¥230 or the ‘Tuna Katsu Burger’ for ¥300. 4-13-18 Tsukiji, Chuo (Tsukiji Station). 03 3541 3321. www.kibun.co.jp. 7am-3pm, Sun & market hols 8am-2pm.

Nisshin Tasuke

Tsukiji Sushiko I think it is ideal to be close to the fish market. When the market moves, the sushi shops might suffer, but this location still retains its value. That’s why we recently decided to open this shop here. WHAT TO EAT ‘Tsukiji’ (¥1,620), which includes eight nigiri and thin rolls. 4-13-7 Tsukiji, Chuo (Tsukiji Station). 03 5550 5585. tinyurl.com/ TOTsushiko. 8am-10.30pm, Sun & hols 10am-10pm.

WHAT TO EAT Shrimp, scallops, eel, eel liver, squid, squid tentacles, all ¥200. 4-13-18 Tsukiji, Chuo (Tsukijishijo Station). 03 3248 1291. www. nisshintasuke.co.jp. Sat-Mon 7.30am-3pm (outdoors), 8.30am-3pm (indoors).

For more Tsukiji street snacks, go to tinyurl.com/TOTtsukiji-street

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INTERVIEWS AND IMAGES: KISA TOYOSHIMA

This is our shop’s 15th year at Tsukiji and I think that nothing much will change, even when the fish market moves. I am not particularly worried. Instead, Tsukiji may become even livelier on account of something new that is built on the fish market’s site.

[CHEAP EATS]

Show me the monja

‘Monja m Luuvu’s aniac’ gu to mak ide in the dis g h

For a cheap night out that’s both thrilling and unique to Tokyo, follow the partying crowds to Tsukishima. (Then follow self-confessed monja geek Luuvu Hoang’s cooking tips, right)

sukishima is a small man-made island in Tokyo Bay, right next to Tsukiji on the mainland. For the bargain hunter, it’s Monja Town. Monjayaki (monja for short) is the uniquely Tokyo variation on okonomiyaki, a dish you cook yourself on a sizzling hotplate set into your table. There are around 80 places specialising in monja and okonomiyaki in the main street (called Nishinaka-dori), or in neighbouring lanes and alleys. The main street is closed to traffic in the early evening, allowing visitors to sanpo (stroll) and check out the rice cracker shop, the ‘melon pan’ bread bakery, the little shop selling cookery utensils, or the Mexican-themed bar. Eventually visitors gravitate towards one or other of the monja joints, or perhaps a yakitori joint, or one of the several other similarly priced alternatives. Most people settle on the monja, as it’s cheap and a novel dish that makes a good talking point. Don’t wear your best clothes – stash anything you don’t want to come out reeking of the grill in the plastic bag provided to keep your duds smelling fresh. Later in the evenings, taxis are permitted into the street to allow groups of partygoers to make their way home safely.

e o wn th Chop d k until o veg, co g it in soft, r d aroun

Don’t a d batter d all the a a dd o n t o n c e – e at a tim -third e

Monja Information Centre

Can’t decide which one of Tsukishima’s 60-plus monja eateries is the best one for you? Not to worry, the knowledgeable guides at the Monja Info Centre will provide you with a map of the restaurants, educate you on how to cook the sticky delicacy and answer any monja trivia questions you may have. They also sell recipe books, monja ingredients for home cooking, and monjathemed T-shirts. Unfortunately, they won’t tell you which place has the tastiest creations; you’ll have to find that out for yourself For a more detailed (although if you asked us, we’d recommend Monja Kura: tinyurl. step-by-step guide to com/TOTmonja-kura). 103 I Mark Tower, 1-8-1 Tsukishima, cooking monja, see our Chuo (Tsukishima Station). 03 3532 1990. www.monja.gr.jp. handy online guide at Open 12pm-8pm. tinyurl.com/ TOTmonja

Luuvu Hoang is a photographer and Tsukishima ‘monja maniac’. www.luuvu.com

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Cook it well, to ge t it nicely browne d. Now... enjoy!

MONJA: GUY DIMOND, TSUKISHIMA STREET: MANABU MOROOKA

t Once tha batter’s , cooked in r e add anoth d ir th

[CHEAP EATS]

Tateishi tour A gluttonous day out in the ’burbs

lthough only 15 minutes by subway from Asakusa, downtown Tateishi remains largely undiscovered by the masses. It’s packed with retro shopping streets, old-fashioned food stalls and shitamachi (old town) attitude – you’ll see plenty of locals heading for the watering holes from early noon and staying put for the remainder of the day. Cheap booze isn’t the only attraction: eateries here offer quality grub at seriously low prices, so gourmetbiased bar-hoppers can easily make it through three joints without spending more than ¥5,000 per head. Here are some choice spots to kick off your Tateishi tour (note that people may not understand English in this area, so it’s best to order using the romaji name of the dish, which we’ve provided in brackets where relevant).

Maruchu-kamabokoten

Before you even think about tackling the oden, take a moment to appreciate the drinks list, which boasts a selection of wines, sake and shochu. Next, work your way up to the impressive range of sides, such as odon (udon boiled in oden soup) and seafood dishes – there’s even a selection of cheeses to go with the wine. With all these fancy distractions for the chefs to worry about, you might think the quality of the oden would suffer, but no: it’s top-notch. Our favourite is the ‘Oden no Tomato’ (¥400), made by stewing a whole peeled tomato in oden soup before combining it with dried basil to create a rich herby flavour. 1-19-2 Tateishi, Katsushika (Keisei-Tateishi Station). tinyurl.com/TOTmaruchu. Mon-Wed 2pm-11pm, Fri 2pm-11pm, Sat 12pm-11pm, Sun & hols 1pm-9pm, closed Thu. Note: opening hours may change without notice.

Edokko

This atmospheric and laughably cheap bar is loved by the locals. First-timers will do well to order a highball (¥350), which here means a shochu-based mixture instead of the standard whisky variety – a nice match with the shop’s motsuyaki, which comes with a deliciously spicy garlic and red pepper sauce. What’s motsuyaki? Glad you asked. It’s Edokko’s speciality and includes grilled offal like rectum (‘teppo’, ¥360) and colon (‘jyo-shiro’, ¥400). The fun-loving staff will make you feel right at home, too. 7-1-9 Tateishi, Katsushika (Keisei-Tateishi Station). tinyurl.com/TOTedokko. Mon-Sat 4.30pm-9pm, closed Sun.

Kenken

Head over to inspect this old-fashioned ramen shop that churns out simple but delicious noodles in nostalgic surroundings. While you’re at it, make sure to order the Chinese rice porridge (‘Chuka-kayu’, ¥660), which goes nicely with the scallop soup. They also serve beer, making this a great spot for hanging out. 1-14-4 Tateishi, Katsushika (Keisei-Tateishi Station). tinyurl.com/TOTkenken. Mon-Sat 5.30pm-1am, closed Sun.

WORDS AND IMAGES: KISA TOYOSHIMA

Aburi

As you can probably tell from the photo (right), this open bar-style restaurant is always busy with locals longing for its original Italian dishes. People often drop by just for casual drinks, even with their dogs in tow (pets allowed on the patio). Popular dishes include chicken liver (¥500), homemade bread (¥100) and pizza (from ¥600), all of which pair well with the wines on offer. 4-25-1 Tateishi, Katsushika (Keisei-Tateishi Station). 03 3695 7731. tinyurl.com/TOTaburi. TueSat 6pm-1am, Sun & hols 6pm-11.30pm, closed Mon.

From top: Maruchukamabokoten, Edokko, Kenken, Aburi

For our full article on Tateishi eats, go to tinyurl.com/TOTtateishi

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[CHEAP EATS]

A Y A K A Z I

UB P E YL T S SE E N PA A J THE

TO SIT OR

This photo and below: Uomaru Honten

Iseya

As children, Tokyoites may have been taken to Kichijoji on the way to visit Inokashira Park, long popular for its boats, zoo and – in more recent times – the Ghibli Museum. Adults visit for the yakitori, every type at Iseya priced at a mere ¥80 per stick. If you’re playing safe, the chicken and meatballs skewers are both very satisfying; if you fancy something a little more challenging, the chicken skin and pork tongue were also good. Iseya has been on this site since 1928, but has changed a great deal; the present building was reconstructed in recent years and is pleasingly sleek, while at the same

time cleverly evocative of the Showa period, and even has bookable rooms (from 10 people) with tatami mats. Park Branch, 1-15-8 Kichijoji Minamicho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 43 2806. tinyurl.com/ TOTiseya. 12pm-10pm, closed Mon.

Kushiwaka

The best seats at this yakitori joint are at the counter overlooking the grill; a waitron will bring you the English menu if you ask. The skewers of meat include the soft minced chicken balls, and their polar opposites, chicken tendon – a texture food that tastes of little but feels like crunchy rubber. Be

sure to order some veggies too, such as the leek skewers or the ginkgo nuts. This is a good place to take advantage of the affordable sake list, which a group of salarymen was doing with great gusto on our visit. To our other side, two young women had ordered the raw chicken sashimi, which they assured us was ‘oishii’ (delicious), and even offered us some to try. Maybe next time. 2F Miyoshi Bldg, 5-29-2 Shiba, Minato (Tamachi, Mita stations). 03 3454 0147. tinyurl.com/ TOTkushiwaka. Mon-Fri lunch 11.30am-1.30pm, dinner 5pm-10.30pm, Sat 5pm-9.30pm, closed Sun & irregular hols.

Shimonya Honten

The Shimonya chain of izakayas operates multiple branches along the Seibu and Chuo lines, but this joint is where the story first started. Look for the yellow roof with the words yakiton (焼とん) and yakitori (焼とり) written on it, enter through the narrow door and grab a seat wherever – you’ll soon be requested to order a drink (perhaps a ¥350 highball) and some skewers (from ¥100). If you’re looking for something a little different, you can order ‘rare beef steak’, which 30 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

is actually closer to a blue steak. Former Pony Club members, be warned: the ‘basashi’ is raw horsemeat. 3-40-5 Kamitakada, Nakano (Araiyakushi-mae Station). 03 3228 4481. tinyurl.com/ TOTshimonya. 3pm-12am (last orders 11pm).

Uomaru Honten

‘Fish shack’ is the term sometimes used to describe the seafoodleaning izakayas that you can find all over town. This one is the most prominent of several such spots that huddle under the railway arches around Yurakucho Station. There’s a laminated English menu with the prices clearly shown. If you’re playing safe you can stick to a sashimi platter or some mixed tempura; plates tend to cost around ¥1,000 each, so order one per person and treat them as sharing plates. If you fancy something more adventurous there are plenty of options, such as cuttlefish marinated in its own gut with yuzu, or Korean-style spicy marinated crab. Revellers take note: it’s open 24 hours a day. International Arcade, 2-1-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda (Ginza, Hibiya stations). 03 5510 1278. tinyurl.com/TOTuomaru. Open 24 hours daily.

[CHEAP EATS]

TO STAND

TAC HIN OMI THE STA NDI NG B AR

This photo and below: Nihon Saisei Sakaba

IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Nihon Saisei Sakaba

How often do you get the chance to suck on some pig rectum? Probably not often enough, unless you frequent the backstreets of Shinjuku, in which case you’ll be squealing like a pig with delight at this motsuyaki stand-bar, which now has a menu available in English. Sink your lips around colon, spleen or womb, all for a mere ¥150 per skewer. The rectum was a surprise; delicately textured like soggy crackling, it gave little pops on the tongue with every bite. If that doesn’t sound like your kind of bag, the tongue or pork temple skewers can ease you in more gently. Despite the oddness of the ingredients, every dish we tried was remarkably delicious, perfectly chargrilled and seasoned, then enthusiastically presented by the beaming chef. The woodpanelled Showa interior is also a proper treat. 1F Marunaka Bldg, 3-7-3 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. (Shinjuku, Shinjuku-Sanchome stations.

03 3354 4829. tinyurl.com/ TOTnihon-saisei. 3pm-12am (last orders 11.30pm).

Akitaya

The venerable Akitaya is a great spot for enjoying a quiet beer while watching the hordes of busy-looking salarymen rushing by. The food’s also reasonable: try their refreshing signature stew (¥500; or the tofu version, same price) before moving on to the irresistible tataki dishes (lightly seared meat or fish, ¥220, limited to one serving per person). 2-1-2 Hamamatsucho, Minato (Daimon Station). 03 3432 0020. tinyurl.com/ TOTakitaya. Mon-Fri 3.30pm-9.30pm, Sat 3.30pm-8.30pm.

Fujiya Honten

From the rickety signage to the precipitous stairwell ending in some slumped beer kegs, there is nothing auspicious about this Shibuya basement bar. But persist, and you’ll appear in the corner of a stand bar that’s been on this site for around 130 years. Join the

salarymen crowded around the open kitchen and start off with a round of draft beer – at ¥450, one of the priciest things on the menu. Traditional bar food staples include tempura, tsukemono pickles and nimono (stewed) dishes. It’s an experience, and the rock-bottom dish prices make it irresistible. B1F, 2-3 Sakuragaokacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). tinyurl.com/TOTfujiyahonten. Mon-Fri 5pm-9.30pm, Sat 5pm-8.30pm, closed Sun, hols and 4th Sat of the month.

Nishiguchi Yakiton

Table seating can be found deep inside this simple eatery, but the front bar is where it’s at. Pair your beers (costing from a mere ¥300) with the famous cartilage plate, or snack on some original toasted bread on a stick. Among the ¥100 skewers, the soy sauceflavoured pork giblets are a sure bet. 4-10-2 Asakusabashi, Taito (Asakusabashi Station). 03 3864 4869. tinyurl. com/TOTnishiguchi. Mon-Fri 4.30pm-11pm, Sat 4.30pm-9pm, Sun 3pm-8pm, closed hols.

Maruken Suisan

Akabane’s Maruken Suisan is the place for piping hot Japanese oden stews and a glass of your favourite poison. Warm up with hot sake and a steaming bowl of oden on a cold day, or snack on a ‘Stamina Roll’ with garlic chives and satsuma-age (fried fishcake), coupled with a swig of cold beer, on a steamy summer night. Oden and one conveniencestore ‘cup’ of sake costs ¥800. 1-22-8 Akabane, Kita (Akabane Station). 03 3901 6676. tinyurl.com/ TOTmaruken. Mon-Fri 10.30am-9pm, Sat, Sun & hols 10.30am-8.30pm, closed third Wed of every month. For a full list of standing bars, go to tinyurl.com/ TOTstanding-bars

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LOCAL INSIGHT

10 top shoppers’ snacks SHIBUYA is a shopper’s paradise – you could spend an entire day browsing stores like Shibuya 109 and Tokyu Hands, not to mention the large department stores, vintage clothing and vinyl shops. There’s no need to go hungry while you’re at it, either, as most of the shopping malls have eat-in restaurants. Here are ten dishes that’ll boost your energy, whether you’re looking for a filling lunch, light snack or sweet treat.

Shibuya Hikarie

A mix of traditional and modern TOUR THE PREFECTURES

d47SHOKUDO/Nagasaki set meal, ¥1,520 A set-meal restaurant where you can enjoy a monthly Prefecture Set Meal, which uses Japan’s 47 prefectures as inspiration. Also enjoy local beer, wine and orange juice. The most popular special, the ‘Nagasaki set meal’, includes rich fried aji (horse mackerel) from Matsuura port and is simply superb. After lunch, pop by d47 Museum and d47 design travel store to pick up special goods and gifts sourced from all over Japan. 8F Shibuya Hikarie. 11am-11pm (last order 10pm).

TASTE ‘HOMEMADE’ TONKATSU

TONKATSU MAISEN/ Black Pork Fillet Katsu, ¥3,000 This tonkatsu (pork cutlet) restaurant has been around for 50 years, so it’s pretty well-known and loved by Tokyoites. People are usually surprised to hear it was founded by a housewife, but we think this is precisely what gives the food that extra touch. The Berkshire pork is crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside, and comes served with a homemade sauce and rice. Normally eaten with a mountain of shredded cabbage. 6F Shibuya Hikarie. 11am-11pm (last order 10pm).

GET YOUR (SWEET) GREENS

ZEN KASHOIN/Satei No Zen, ¥1,400 From the window seats of this confectionery café that’s originally from Kyoto, you’ll get a bird’s-eye view of the streets of Shibuya while enjoying matcha green tea and Castella sponge roll cakes. The ‘Satei No Zen’ menu features items limited to the Hikarie branch, and if you go down to the B2 floor, you’ll find a takeaway-only branch too. 5F Shibuya Hikarie ShinQs. 10am-9pm.

POUR GREEN TEA ON EEL

UNAGI TOKU/Ohitsu Unagi Chazuke, ¥3,450 Unadon is a dish consisting of sweet, baked eel on top of freshly cooked rice. At Unagi Toku you can try out a version of this dish called hitsumabushi, in which filleted eel is served with condiments and green tea. First, sample the eel with just the shop’s special house sauce, then try a bite with the condiments. Lastly, pour the green tea on the eel and enjoy all three tastes at once. It’s a favourite among Tokyoites. You can also opt for à la carte items such as shirayaki (plain grilled eel) with wine or sake. 6F Shibuya Hikarie. 11am-11pm (last order 10pm).

TO K N O W T E G

SHIBUYA

No. 1

The best place to open a restaurant right now Shibuya takes the top spot when it comes to opening a new restaurant. At least, that’s according to Tokyo’s purveyors of food and drink who believe there is no place better than trend-setting Shibuya to start up something new. Source: reviews by 飲食店 .com

The number of nationalities mixing at Shibuya restaurants People gather here from all over the world, possibly because this district has more international food than any other. If you’re yearning for the tastes of home, you’ll find anything from borscht soup to falafel to rare tequila. Source: Tokyo Restaurant Search

Tokyu Department Store Honten Store

Toyoko Noren-gai & Tokyu Foodshow

Calm and cultured SAMPLE THE FINEST TEMPURA

Souvenirs and takeaways PICK UP CUTE OMIYAGE

Cheap conveyor belt sushi is fun, but if you want to enjoy traditional sushi and sake in a calm space, this place is a better bet. This is high quality sushi made slowly and carefully, but without the pressure felt in ultra luxurious restaurants – so you get to add a little extravagance to a spontaneous lunch, dinner or shopping break. 8F Tokyu Department Store Honten Store. 11am-10.30pm (last order 9.45pm).

While the main branch of this tempura restaurant is in Ginza, attracting a cultured crowd, the Shibuya branch is a little more casual. But that doesn’t mean they sacrifice on flavour – you’ll be sampling some of the finest tempura in Tokyo here. Choose your own ingredients and watch as your meal gets fried up in front of you, or opt for the popular set menu. 8F Tokyu Department Store Honten Store. 11am-10.30pm (last order 9.45pm).

Tokyu Hands Shibuya

Tokyu Department Store Toyoko Store South

GINZA TEN-ICHI/ Monthly recommendation, ¥3,240

A quick escape

Gourmet on the run

Pressed for time but still need one more omiyage (souvenir gift)? Hurry down to Shibuya Station’s depachika (basement department store) and you’ll find a food heaven bustling with shoppers and foodies alike. You’ll also find carefully selected Japanese products, from cute cans of ToyokoHachiko-themed Japanese tea to individually wrapped sembei crackers that work well as small souvenirs. Be warned, it’s easy to get distracted and lose complete track of time. B1F Tokyu Department Store Toyoko Store. 10am-9pm.

109Men’s

STAND AND SLURP

HONKE SHIBUSOBA/Kakiage-soba, ¥480

HANDS CAFÉ/Combo set, ¥1,000

Shopping at Tokyu Hands can be a dizzying experience. Catch your breath at the top-floor café, which is markedly different from the rest of the store in terms of decor and atmosphere. Enjoy dim lighting and rustic decor while snacking on a tuna sandwich on sesame bread. The combo set is good value and comes with French fries, salad and a choice of coffee or soup. 7F Tokyu Hands Shibuya. 10am-8.30pm.

OKUSHIBUYA

HOSHINO COFFEE/Souffle Pancake (Double),¥700

Starbucks isn’t the only spot for having a snack while looking out over Shibuya’s scramble crossing. Those with a sweet tooth will enjoy the soufflé pancakes here – they’re an excellent combination of sweet, fluffy batter and maple syrup. Naturally, the café is generally packed with teenage girls who only have eyes for their pancakes. 2F 109Men’s. 10am-11pm (last order 10.30pm).

Tokyu Hands

To Okushibuya

To Harajuku

MUNCH A TUNA SNACKWICH

Tokyu Department Store Honten Store

nto

i li

Shibuya 109

Shibuya’s most up-and-coming area From Shibuya Station, bear right at Shibuya 109 and keep going, with the Tokyu Department Store Honten Store on your left. This is where Tokyo’s hippest gather to enjoy the many old and new eateries tucked away among the backstreets. Try Uoriki for its special plates of fresh fish, and Fuglen Tokyo for its coffee and unique decor.

Shinsen Station

Inok

ash

ne ira li

Lunch with a view

INDULGE IN A DOUBLE-DECKER PANCAKE

Long ago, people in Tokyo ate sushi standing up, since sushi was seen as fast-food. Honke Shibusoba keeps up this tradition as a standing soba shop (although they do have seats if your legs need a break). You’ll be impressed not only by the speed with which your soba dish is served but also by the speed with which Japanese businessmen slurp up their noodles. We recommend their most popular dish, kakiage-soba. 2F Tokyu Department Store Toyoko Store South. MonFri 7am-11pm, Sat, Sun & pub hol 7am-9pm.

109Men’s

Shibuya Excel Hotel Tokyu

Fukutoshin line

ISOSEI/Monthly recommendation, ¥3,240

JR Yamanote line

STOP FOR CASUAL, QUALITY SUSHI

ITOEN at Toyoko Noren-gai/ Ichibancha Horebore, ¥1,134 GINZA AKEBONO at Tokyu Foodshow/ Sorezore Futamusubi, ¥130

Shibuya

Tokyu Station Department Store Toyoko Store

6 Cerulean Tower oute 24 R Tokyu Hotel

To ndo Omotesa Hanzom

on line line Ginza

Shibuya Hikarie Toy ok o

lin e

To Da ika nya ma

MAP

LOCAL INSIGHT

1979 As Japan rides on the wave of rapid economic growth, the landmark Shibuya 109 building appears. Other largescale commercial buildings, such as Tokyu Hands are also erected. Shall we take a detour and buy some ’80s fashion?

1960

2015 Mid-1990s

Shibuya is suddenly teeming with tanned gals. It’s also become a favourite hangout for teenagers, and the birthplace of unique and enigmatic cultural phenomena such as Print Club machines, which let you design and print out stickers with a photo of your face on them.

1952

1945

©Teiji Akatsugu

Wow, the rush-hour commute has already started giving Tokyo it’s signature bustling atmosphere. We’re travelling on the old Toyoko line and we’re starting to think a packed train is a long-standing tradition of Japan. Where have those burnt fields gone? Now, there’s a cable car that travels between the roof of a department store in front of the station (the former Tokyu Department Store’s east building) and the roof of an adjacent building (Tokyu Department Store’s current west building). Although the cityscape is still empty in comparison to how it will look in years to come.

There are plenty of new shops to explore. For example, Log Road Daikanyama, the new shopping mall that opened its doors in spring. There’s already a queue forming outside the first Japan branch of San Francisco’s Tartine Bakery & Cafe.

Travel in t the futur o e

START!

BACK TO TH I Shibuya Station is currently used by three million people daily as they journey around the city. Choose your own journey through Shibuya now, by either going back in time, or forward into the future…

START! 1911

1934

k to bac st o G e pa th

©getnews.jp

Next we’re in Shibuya around the time of the end of World War II. The area is in ruins because of bombing. The black market is growing in the station forecourt; the fire-devastated area is used to grow vegetables.

That dog, could it be...? By 1934, the faithful Hachiko has already been waiting years for his master who would never return. The bronze statue outside the station gets built this year, and Hachiko will pass away in 1935.

The first thing we see is a boy in a kimono. We also see Shibuya Station as it looked more than a century ago. Established as a transit point mainly for industrial materials like raw silk thread and gravel, the station’s forecourt has the atmosphere of a rustic courtyard.

2017

THE TIME TRAVELLER’S GUIDE Would you believe there are ruins that are several thousand years old hidden among the streets of modern Shibuya? Take a trip through time by visiting these four spots.

The concrete jungle is still growing, but this new building, found on the way to Harajuku, provides some wonderful respite with its greenery and cafés. The upper level is home to a mix of international creatives who stay up all night exchanging new ideas. Did you hear they may have come up with a concept for a time machine that actually works?

HE FUTURE IN SHIBUYA Shibuya… the most outstanding shopping district in Tokyo, no, the world. Discover a different side to the famous neighbourhood by strolling off the beaten path and exploring its past, present and future – from the days when Hachiko waited faithfully for his owner outside the station to what the area is likely to look like by the time the 2020 Olympics roll around. (Note that some areas featured are out of cellphone range.)

2027

Shibuya Station’s passageways have been expanded and, taking advantage of the area’s basin-like terrain, there’s a Sky Deck that connects the 4th floor plaza with Dogenzaka or the top of Miyamasuzaka hill. Now that’s convenient. What, you want to travel back in time already?

2018 to 2019 l Love Letter Alley In the early ’50s,American Occupation troops began departing from Japan. Several entrepreneurs opened up shops on this street, offering a translation service for women who could not speak English very well but wished to pen love letters to their American boyfriends.All that remains now is a memorial behind the 109 building. 2-29, Dogenzaka, Shibuya

Shibuya Station South District has been built in an area surrounding a group of old train tracks. It’s a place where creative types gather; where hipsters sip coffee while tapping away on laptops. Also, there’s an airport bus stop at the west gate of the station and you can feel a distinct international atmosphere seeping into the city.

2020

The city is swept up in Olympics excitement. The east building, just in front of the station, is complete (but there’s more to come in 2027). It is Shibuya’s tallest and largest office and commercial complex. Overhearing the conversation of people walking by, it sounds like last night’s 100m Olympic gold winner was... whoops, can’t give that away, can we.

l Konno sumo ruins Within the grounds of Hikawa Shrine – the oldest shrine in Shibuya – lies the ruins of a sumo arena. Long ago, villagers would hold sumo events here and participants included not just wrestlers from Edo (the main sumo area) but also young laymen. Legend has it that great crowds would gather to cheer on the wrestlers – as they still do at today’s more modern arenas. 2-5-6, Higashi, Shibuya

l Yoyogi Hachiman ruins At a time when much of what is now Tokyo was below sea level, the people of Shibuya lived on the hilltops. Many remains of homes have been discovered within the precincts of Yoyogi Hachiman Shrine, 32m above sea level. Visit and get a feel for how Tokyoites lived 4,500 years ago. 5-1-1,Yoyogi, Shibuya

l Sarugakuzuka You’d probably be surprised to hear that ancient ruins can be found sandwiched between Shibuya’s chic shops, but it’s true. The ruins of a 6th to 7th century burial mound can be found on the grounds of the Hillside Terrace complex. In Tokyo, history can literally be found lying around. Hillside Terrace, 29-10, Sarugakucho, Shibuya

Eating & Drinking

l i a t ry k c Co emist ch Meet three Tokyo mixologists who are shaking up the city’s bar scene with drinks like foie gras vodka and tom yum liquor. Words and images James Hadfield

Shuzo Nagumo prepares his Gustro Chocola Martini at Mixology Laboratory

hen globetrotting bar hounds go in search of the perfect cocktail, they generally wash up in Tokyo. The capital’s top bartenders are renowned for their exacting approach to the art of preparing drinks: from precision-carved ice cubes to painstakingly mastered shaking techniques, they’ve finessed every stage of the process. At the hallowed cocktail temples of Ginza – places like Star Bar, Bar Tender and Bar High Five – it’s all about craftsmanship, not flair. Classic cocktails rule supreme, and trainees will sometimes spend years working behind the counter before they get a chance to make a drink for a paying customer. But what of the innovators and upstarts: the budding bartenders who’d rather create something new than spend years learning how to make a perfectly balanced gimlet? In the past decade, a growing number of cocktail makers in Tokyo have been bucking the traditionalist trend. Some have even embraced a term that’s practically considered an insult on the Ginza circuit: mixology.

Mixology Laboratory’s Gustro Chocola Martini, White Tomato Fizz and Tom Yum Cooler

cocktails; at its Popularised by most extreme, it New York’s Dale can look more like DeGroff in the late the bartending ’80s, the word equivalent (and its associated of molecular term, ‘mixologist’) gastronomy, seems to mean where muddlers something and shakers have different to been replaced with everyone who centrifuges and uses it, but it tends – Shuzo Nagumo dry ice. to conjure images But, as we discovered on a tour of bartenders who wield unorthodox of three of the city’s most cuttingtechniques and unusual ingredients edge bars, there are many different to further the ‘science’ of cocktail ways to rewrite the Tokyo cocktail making. At its most innocuous, this rulebook. might just mean using fresh fruit in

There aren’t many people making cocktails like this in Japan, so I had to work a lot of things out for myself

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MIXOLOGY LABORATORY ‘Washoku and Japanese bartending is all about subtraction,’ says Shuzo Nagumo. ‘But I like multiplication.’ He’s just prepared us the most outlandish martini we’ve ever tasted, made with foie gras vodka, chocolate reduction, fresh cream and nutmeg, then wrapped in a cellophane bag that’s pumped full of smoke. Nagumo’s business card bears the title ‘Grand Mixologist’, and on this evidence he’s more than earned it. At Mixology Laboratory, the newest addition to Nagumo’s expanding empire of high-tech cocktail dens, there’s a welter of expensive scientific equipment behind the bar. He uses a rotary evaporator to extract the aromatics from delicate ingredients that would be destroyed by conventional distillation, letting him create unlikely tipples such as basil gin, blue cheese cognac and – yes – foie gras vodka. One of his staple cocktails is made with a white tomato liquid produced in a centrifuge.

that his recipes are in constant flux. ‘I’m always conducting experiments with my customers,’ he says with a chortle. 9F, 1-13-7 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 6279 4223. ameblo.jp/kayama0927 (Japanese only)

Hiroyasu Kayama prepares his housemade amaro at Bar BenFiddich

version of amaro, the potent Italian digestif. When a regular customer comes in, Kayama whips out a vintage bottle of Suze that he just bought online – ‘it’s from the ’30s or ’40s’ – and invites him to do a taste test. A firsttime visitor’s question about making the perfect gin and tonic leads to a lengthy discussion about the surface temperature of ice cubes. He’s like the hippest chemistry teacher we never had. ‘Oh, I wasn’t into science at high school,’ he says. ‘I was too busy playing baseball.’ Kayama opened BenFiddich in 2013, after working for years as the head bartender at Nishi-Azabu mixology bar Amber. It’s given him free rein to pursue a longstanding interest in traditional elixirs and herbal liquors, often using ingredients – anise, fennel, wormwood – grown on his family’s plot in Chichibu, Saitama. The bar has an impressive whisky selection too, but Kayama’s apothecary-style cocktails are the main attraction. Jars of spices and housemade infusions line the shelves behind the counter, and he’s as likely to prepare your drink with a pestle and mortar as a cocktail shaker. He was even distilling his own absinthe, until a bureaucrat acquaintance warned him that he might get in legal trouble. There’s no menu at BenFiddich, and Kayama says

Hiroyasu Kayama is like the hippest chemistry teacher we never had

BAR BENFIDDICH The first time we visit Bar BenFiddich, Hiroyasu Kayama gives us an unusual souvenir: a bag of dried senburi root (pictured above on the left of the bar counter), a virulently bitter herb that’s normally used to relieve indigestion. ‘I’ve got loads of this stuff sitting around,’ he says, as he grinds a section of root with some red wine, brandy, orange peel and an array of spices to create his own

Bar Trench’s Never-Ending Hazy Talk

Bartender Hisatsugu Saito prepares drinks at Bar Trench

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Eating & Drinking

‘There aren’t many people making cocktails like this in Japan, so I had to work a lot of things out for myself,’ he says. After kitting out his lab, he headed to London to get advice from pioneering mixologist Tony Conigliaro, and he regularly exchanges ideas with forwardthinking bartender pals in other major Asian cities. But, says Nagumo, there’s nobody else making drinks like his Tom Yum Cooler, which turns the famous spicy-sour Thai soup into a refreshing long cocktail – the kind of thing you might drink in lieu of a mojito on a summer afternoon. Though the drink uses a labconcocted tom yum liquor as its base, the secret lay in finding the right balance of tart flavours: lime juice, tamarind syrup and balsamic vinegar. ‘Creating cocktails that combine Japanese bartending techniques with ideas that you won’t find anywhere else – that’s my style,’ he says. Oh, and overseas bartenders pining for a bottle of wasabi gin are in luck: Nagumo plans to start his own distillery next. 3F, 1-6-1 Yaesu, Chuo (Tokyo Station). 03 6262 3946. tinyurl.com/ TOTmixlab (Japanese only)

BAR TRENCH ‘The new generation right now are travelling more, seeing what’s going on outside the country, and they’re mixing what they knew before of the classic Japanese style,’ says Rogerio Igarashi Vaz, reflecting on recent trends in Japan’s bar scene. ‘Little by little it’s changing.’ As the co-owner of Ebisu’s Bar Tram and its sister shop, Bar Trench, Vaz has been well positioned to appreciate that change. Back when Tram (motto: ‘Get drunk different’) first opened in 2003, its aboveaverage absinthe selection and DIY aesthetic was enough to make it stand out from the crowd. But ‘things started to get a little more complex’ later in the decade, as the staff began to incorporate ideas that they’d picked up during visits to progressive cocktail bars overseas. At both Tram and Trench, which opened in 2009, the drinks menus are clearly in tune with Western trends – plenty of twists on classic

cocktails, lots of housemade bitters and infusions – without feeling derivative. With their retro decor conjuring a spirit of Prohibition-era bonhomie, these bars are also just a lot of fun. Vaz can usually be found behind the counter at Trench, where he says there’s more of an emphasis on boozy cocktails from the ’20s and ’30s. The Old Etonian (like ‘a strong gin and tonic, but without the bubbles’) is a long-running favourite, and the menu has an entire section devoted to absinthe cocktails. The most eye-catching drink, an original creation titled Never-Ending Hazy Talk (the recipe remains a closely guarded secret), is served with a glass bulb full of wood-chip smoke that you can pour over the top in between sips. But that’s the flashiest offering by far. Despite listing London’s Artesian and Copenhagen’s Ruby among his favourite bars, Vaz claims that he’s still mystified about what a mixologist even is – though he doesn’t think he’d qualify. ‘I think cocktails are just 20 percent of everything we do,’ he says. ‘All the rest would be serving or tending the customers.’ 1-5-8 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 03 3780 5291. small-axe. net/bar-trench

Eating & Drinking

FIND YOUR PERFECT SAKE Our highly unscientific guide is here to help you choose. Words Benjamin Boas

ARE YOU A TRADITIONALIST?

What’s more important: the purity of the sake’s flavour or the authenticity in how it’s stored?

Do you want something that will taste different from any other sake?

Authenticity

If it would enhance the sake’s flavour, do you think it’s okay to add a little distilled alcohol?

Definitely

So you’re a real purist. But are you willing to go all the way?

I want to look good

I like my drinks to have character

MARUSHIN MASAMUNE, KOYAMA BREWERY

KUROMATSU HAKUSHIKA, HAKUSHIKA

GOKA SENNENJU, HAKUSHIKA

Yes

Hmm, not quite

What’s most important to you when you drink?

Yes

Ginjo-shu

Junmai Daiginjo-shu

Junmai-shu

Taruzake

Nigori

Jizake

Uses traditional tools and methods to brew rice kernels that have been polished to at least 60% of their original size. Distilled alcohol is added to bring out the flavour, which tends to be light with a fruity aroma. Excellent if you want premium with a bit of variety.

It doesn’t get any purer than this. The premium of the premium, Junmai Daiginjo uses grains that are polished to at least 50% and prepared in a labour-intensive process that involves a long fermentation period.

Made with only rice, water and koji mould. The grains of rice must be polished to at least 70% of their original size, making for a full and solid profile, often with a karakuchi (dry) taste. No distilled alcohol added.

One for the old-school connoisseurs, Taru (barrel) sake is aged in wooden barrels after being brewed. In addition to giving a distinctive colour, the barrels add a rustic flavour and aroma. The best type is aged in cedar from Nara.

If you just want to have fun with your sake, then Nigori is what you’re looking for. Its cloudy appearance comes from the unfiltered solids still in the mix, which give it a creamy texture (really: try it as a sauce for your favourite dessert).

Jizake means ‘local sake’ and is the rice wine equivalent of a microbrew. You’ll have to look a little further than your local sake shop to find these, as there’s only one brewery left in central Tokyo: Koyama Shuzo in Kita-ku.

38 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

ILLUSTRATIONS: OLGA_ANGELIOZ/SHUTTERSTOCK, NIGORI: HOROMON/PIXTA

Purity

SHARAKU, MIYAIZUMI MEIJO

Eating & Drinking

Yes

For details about the Japanese Sake Information Centre, visit tinyurl.com/ TOTsake-centre

Where to taste sake Not sure where to start? Here are our recommendations Meishu Center

Yata

A good option for Junmai-shu fans, this standing bar keeps over 30 varieties of sake available at any time, rotating the offerings each season. Order the sake tasting option (kikizake) and for only ¥1,500 you can try as many varieties as you like for one hour. The bar offers snacks that have been expertly paired with each type of sake: dried fruits for sweet varieties and cheese for stronger flavours. 10F, 3-14-22 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 5341 4365. Mon-Fri 3pm-11pm, Sat & pub hol 2pm-10.30pm.

Yakitori Kushibeh

This is a yakitori restaurant, but a quick glance at the entrance will urge any sake lover to head inside – it’s plastered from top to bottom with sake labels. The ever-changing selection is so extensive, it often includes different varieties of the same brand of sake made with rice from different sources. If you really want to get into what makes sake tick, a tasting session here may be in order. B1F, 4-6-1 Koenji-Minami, Suginami (Koenji Station). 03 3318 7756. Mon-Sat 5pm-12am.

Sakana Bar Ippo

The English part of this bar’s sign says ‘Fish & Sake’ – and that’s exactly the combo to try here. The fish is delivered directly from Tsukiji fish market every day and the bilingual menu boasts over 50 varieties of sake. The selection is rotated from season to season and ranges from big-name brands to local specialities. If you want to pull up a seat with people who really know their stuff, this is the place to go. 1-22-10 Ebisu, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 03 3445 8418. Daily 6pm-3am.

P this lease pr e mag azin sent e to get all fo od a nd d rink orde rs!

10 % O

IMAGE: LAURAKICK/SHUTTERSTOCK

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Eating & Drinking

This beginner-friendly spot offers a selection of reasonably priced sake: 60ml servings start from ¥200 and sets of three get you a ¥100 discount. The staff speak English, so don’t be shy about asking for recommendations. It can be a little difficult to find if you can’t read its illuminated Japanese sign – look for a crowd of smokers and you’re probably there, since it’s smokefree inside. 2-3-29 Hamamatsucho, Minato (Daimon Station). 03 5405 4441. Mon-Fri 11am-9.30pm.

Keisuke Matsushima

In March, Time Out Tokyo co-hosted ‘L’art de Rosanjin’, an exhibition that paid homage to Japanese artist and culinary expert Kitaoji Rosanjin. Here, Guy Dimond reviews the four restaurants that took part

‘L

’art de Rosanjin’ was a unique experiment in participatory art that sought to express the fascinating world of Japanese cuisine, while highlighting the art and influence of Kitaoji Rosanjin (1883-1959). Renowned for being a leading gourmand in his day, Rosanjin had strong ties with Kioicho Fukudaya and Ginza Kyubey. The exhibition featured special dishes, both virtual and real, by these restaurants as well as by Keisuke Matsushima and Tenmo, creating a hi-tech interactive experience. If you missed the show, you can still experience the cuisine at these four top dining spots…

does still use original Rosanjin plates on occasion. The succession of tiny but exquisitely presented seasonal dishes is brought by a kimono-clad waitress. A tiny block of shirakoinfused tofu might be topped with uni (sea urchin) and served in an orange moat of ponzu sauce. Some textures challenge, but many dishes are only a bite or two big. Fukudaya is one of the most expensive restaurants in Tokyo, but if you’re eating here, you’re probably not paying with your own money anyway. 6-12 Kioicho, Chiyoda (Yotsuya Station). 03 3261 8577. tinyurl.com/TOTfukudaya. 11.30am-2.30pm, 5pm-10pm, closed Sun & hols, Sat once a month.

Kioicho Fukudaya

Ginza Kyubey

There are few places where you can find kaiseki ryori, Japan’s traditional haute cuisine, done as it should be done; Fukudaya is one of them. Although the present site now bears little resemblance to the inn Rosanjin used to frequent, the restaurant

Kioicho Fukudaya

Our lunch was still watching us as we took a bite; its head facing us, legs twitching. You have a choice of having your prawns raw (nama) or quickly boiled at Kyubey, and we’d chosen the former. The live prawn is filleted with the speed and efficiency

Ginza Kyubey

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Keisuke Matsushima

Chef Keisuke Matsushima earned his stripes working in Nice, France, where his restaurant still retains a Michelin star. At this Harajuku branch, every dish surprises with its mix of East and West. Heritage varieties of purple Japanese tubers are integrated into a warm salad of perfectly pert mizuna, pretty as a picture, the combination with deep, earthy and mustardy flavours. Pork is given a more conventional treatment, as a tidy cube of perfectly tender confit with a just-right jus, with a stuffed daikon as the vegetable interest. European flavours are evident in a dish containing roast lamb, or quail wrapped in kadaif (Mediterranean brittle noodles, like shredded wheat). A dessert of

Tenmo

frozen mascarpone cheese was encased in a mochi sleeve, with cream piping so tiny a seamstress would be proud of it. 1F Park Court Jingumae, 1-4-20 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku Station). 03 5772 2091. tinyurl.com/TOTkeisuke. Mon-Sat 11.30am-3pm (last orders 2pm), 6pm-11pm (last orders 9pm), Sun 11.30am-3pm, 5pm-10pm.

Tenmo

Sitting at the counter of this tempura shack, built in 1947, feels like a Yasujiro Ozu film. It’s a ‘theatre’ with few words, even fewer seats (six customers, all at the counter), and a no-choice menu. The succession of nibbles from the sesame oil fryer might start with shrimp, followed by less common seafood choices such as ayu (the disingenuouslynamed ‘sweetfish’ which tastes slightly bitter), and vegetables both familiar and unfamiliar (such as astringent fukinoto, ‘butterbur sprouts’). There are two sakes to choose from, both of them wellmatched to the food. Tenmo is very expensive for a tempura joint, but you’re paying to participate in living history for an hour. 4-1-3 NihonbashiHoncho, Chuo (Shin-Nihonbashi, Mitsukoshimae stations). 03 3241 7035. tinyurl.com/TOTtenmo. 12pm-2pm, 5pm-8pm (Sat 5pm-7pm, reservations required), closed Sun, hols, Sat in Aug.

IMAGES: XXXXXXXX

Eat like Rosanjin

that only comes from refining the technique over decades; the grey flesh glistened on the pad of warm rice while the rest of the body was still in motion. Most of the meals here are nigiri sets, graded by size and price. Considering the air of exclusivity the place embodies, we were surprised to find our set lunch cost under ¥6,000, which is outstanding value for both sushi and ambience of this impeccable standard. 8-7-6 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza, Shinbashi stations). 03 3571 6523. tinyurl.com/TOTkyubey. 11.30am-2pm, 5pm-10pm, closed Sun & hols.

Shopping & Style The new It bag Since Zooey Deschanel was snapped sporting a randoseru last year, the traditional school backpack has rocketed from Japanese classrooms to international high streets. Vivian Morelli dissects the trend

Shopping & Style

he latest trend to adorn the backs of celebrities wasn’t born on the runway, but rather in the halls of Japanese elementary schools. That’s right: the ubiquitous randoseru is now a coveted fashion item for the post-elementary school crowd. Usually found strapped to the backs of children, who use it to carry heavy textbooks, the practical item is now apparently a must-have for style mavens. But just how did this quintessential Japanese accessory make its way from schools to fashion blogs? The utilitarian knapsack has actually been around since the mid19th century, when soldiers started using imported rucksacks, called ‘ransel’ in Dutch. Several decades and a katakana update later, the bag was adopted by students in both cities and rural areas of Japan to carry their school supplies. Although not mandated by the education system or public schools, students were encouraged to use randoseru and somehow the tradition endured to the present day. Ranging from ¥30,000 to over ¥120,000, the hard-sided backpacks come with a steep price tag, but for good reason: not only are they extremely sturdy, but they are meant to be used throughout all six years of elementary school. Grandparents are usually the lucky candidates who get to shell out the money for this indispensable item, which is built to last for the first leg of a child’s educational path. Indeed, the rigid bags are strong enough to carry about three kilograms worth of books, papers and sundries (how many times have you spotted a tiny Japanese kid teetering about trying to balance the weight?). The lower scale of the price range gets you a tough, waterresistant artificial leather version, while a few more stacks of bills get you a premium handcrafted leather

piece worthy of the Imperial family. Randoseru are typically found at department stores, chain retail megastores and specialty boutiques, especially ahead of the new school year every spring. Girls traditionally carried red versions, while boys carried black. Although those classic hues are still used, randoseru now come in all shades of the rainbow, and girls tend to pick pink or baby blue, while boys opt for navy or brown. A few decades ago, choosing a colour other than red or black would have been considered unseemly, but times are changing and kids are selecting unique designs and accessorising with patterned covers and adorning charms. Long before actress and musician Zooey Deschanel was spotted sporting a bright red randoseru in New York, teen Lolitas were rocking the bags around the streets of Harajuku, complementing their tiered, frilly ensembles. Naturally, trends spotted in Japan easily make their way across the ocean, and the randoseru has now become a fixture of the Pinterest and Instagram worlds. Tourists have caught on too, and although celebs and models sporting the bag tend to stick to the traditional red or black varieties, kids (or their parents?) go nuts over brighter shades, contrasting stitching, embroidered names, sparkling appliques, scalloped edges, rhinestones, characters and two-toned models. Commercial brands such as Nike and Puma now make their own sporty versions, and Barbie even has her own – you guessed it – hot pink collection (available on eBay for around ¥100,000 each). While usually bulky on the frames of pint-sized schoolkids, the knapsacks look decidedly dwarfed when worn by fully-grown trendsetters, we have to say. But what’s good enough for Zooey…

42 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Promotional feature LOCAL INSIGHT

BACK TO SCHOOL Choo se rando your seru!

Your new favourite trainers

Shibuya Parco’s latest footwear stores As one of the leaders in street-style fashion, Shibuya Parco keeps its ear to the ground. Which is a good place to be when you’re scouting out new trainer fashions. The department store recently welcomed these three new footwear brands into the fold. Bound to put a literal spring in your step.

ASICS Tiger After relaunching their lifestyle brand as Asics Tiger, Japan’s leading sneaker company opened a pop-up shop in Parco for the first three months of this year. Now they have a dedicated Asics Tiger store on the B1 floor – the first of its kind in the world – where you’ll find the relaunched Gel-Lyte series, which first came out 25 years ago and has now evolved into something more casual, stylish and fit for everyday use. You’ll notice the trainers feature the original Asics logo designed by Herb Lubalin, aka the ‘god of typography’. PART 1, B1F

THE CLASSIC

You can’t go wrong with the traditional randoseru – these are still the most commonly seen school backpacks in Tokyo, and Zooey Deschanel followed suit by picking a red one. At least you know it’ll never go out of style. From ¥42,000 (black) and ¥55,000 (red) at Fit-chan, tinyurl.com/TOTfit-chan

THE GIRLY

A firm favourite among first-grader girls, this bright pink number has kept a simple design while featuring subtle white stitching. Also check out the other bags in the range with musical notes as a motif. ¥108,000 from Mezzo Piano, mezzopiano.narumiya-online.jp

SUPRA One of the hottest street footwear brands today, Supra recently opened its second Japan outlet in Parco. Since starting out in California in 2006, they’ve sponsored a considerable number of pro skateboarders and are favoured by celebrities such as Kanye West, Jay-Z and Lil Wayne. This shop carries a wide range of models, including a few available only in Japan, plus a selection of clothing. To commemorate the store’s opening, they’re currently selling the unique Supra Society II sneaker, sold only at this branch. PART 1, B1F

THE FRENCH FLAIR

With its sweet pup cutout, this ‘Petit Terrier Rond’ bag has the right dose of French flair while keeping things ‘kawaii’ with its pastel blue shade. The bag also comes in classic red and can be accessorised with a matching pup-shaped keychain. ¥70,200 from Pom Ponette, pomponette.narumiyaonline.jp

This statement number doesn’t go unnoticed amidst the sea of plain red and black backpacks, and the studs probably come in handy to ward off the crowds in packed rush hour trains. This particular bag is actually designed for adults (men too, if the shot below is anything to go by), and the price tag is lower than most designer handbags – we like! ¥118,800 from akujidou.com Note: if you have trouble finding the above randoseru on the store websites, most department stores sell a wide range just before April, otherwise check out global. rakuten.com/en/.

ZOOEY DESCHANEL: SPLASH/AFLO, GIRL WITH RANDOSERU: JESSIE/PIXTA

THE STUD

California Dept.

JUST OPENED!

This new lifestyle shop inspired by Californian living opened on March 14. You’ll find a range of clothing and trainers that combine California’s edgiest trends with its more casual lifestyle. Watch out for news of the launch date. PART 3, 1F

SHIBUYA PARCO 15-1 Udagawacho, Shibuya, Tokyo 03 3464 5111. shibuya.parco.jp Open 10am to 9pm daily

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Shopping & Style

Quirky people, creative spaces

Shopping & Style

Alma Reyes meets four Tokyoites who’ve turned their small apartments into some kinda wonderful

A SWINGIN’ SUCCESS

Sakurako Kuroda, photographer, Ogikubo Who says swings belong in parks? Sakurako Kuroda, a successful commercial photographer, has cleverly balanced work and leisure in a bright, compact one-room space where one part is devoted to her photo studio and the other to her personal and study corner, divided by a wooden swing hung from the ceiling. The workspace sits beneath a cosy bedroom loft, lined with interesting books, artworks, trinkets and other paraphernalia, such as her antique miniature car collection. On the other side of the apartment, there’s enough space for a living and dining room set, accented by striped cushions and a multicoloured coffee table that Sakurako painted herself. ‘I wanted my room to be all white and highlighted by single-tone colours such as blue, red, yellow, green, pink and orange,’ she says. ‘I painted these colours on my kitchen cabinets, bathroom tiles, low table, doors and shelves.’ Children who visit Sakurako’s unique apartment apparently jump with joy upon seeing the swing in the middle of the room. At the end of the day, it becomes her quiet cradle, where she dreams of more Mediterranean inspirations to liven up her luminous space. SHOP THE LOOK Home designed by Kitori (www. kitori.jp). We recommend 0fr. Tokyo for books and underground artworks (tinyurl.com/TOTofr), Alf in Nakano Broadway for collectible toy cars (tinyurl. com/TOTalf), and Tokyu Hands for wood and tools to build a swing (www.tokyu-hands.co.jp). 44 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

LOLITA GIRL

GREEN DREAMER

Hiromi Hoshino, green design planner, Shinagawa As a design planner of stainless steel and garden interiors, Hiromi Hoshino lives in a completely organic environment. Each morning she’s greeted by the playful squawk of her parrot, and each night she’s soothed with the cool breath of Schefflera evergreen, leopard plants, Elkhorn ferns, terrarium necklace plants, Rhipsalis cacti and other greens. Hiromi has always loved plants and animals, saying she finds them comforting. ‘Living with plants makes me experience small changes in things, just as there’s joy in seeing a bud grow into a beautiful flower,’ she explains. She chooses plants that are well suited to her apartment’s interior, taking into account factors such as sunlight, room temperature, humidity and wind direction. The art of matching greens with stainless steel is Hiromi’s speciality, and retro goods add an element of nostalgia to the rustic atmosphere. SHOP THE LOOK Stainless steel accent pieces and plants from Steor (steor.com), birdcage and hanging lamps from Shark Attack (www.sharkattack.jp), animal toys from Keep Left (www.keep-left.net).

Shopping & Style

PLUSH ARTIST

Yuji Machida, artist, Hiroo At first glance, Yuji Machida’s living room looks like a work of art in itself. Bold, contrasting hues spring up from all corners of his playground – a bright yellow table (which Yuji painted himself) with green and red Pop Art humidifiers on top; purple velvet chairs that complement the furry purple centre rug; and a red clock and mirror below a red plastic ’60s lamp against stark red drapes. Yuji’s canvases fill up the room, all depicting scenes of his time spent living in New York and travels through Europe. The colours in his paintings almost seem to transfer onto other objects in the room, as though they’ve flown from the canvas to land on the furniture. ‘I really wanted to have an all-white wall on which to paint a museum,’ he says. ‘But instead, my belongings have filled up the space and given it colour.’ Yuji also enjoys collecting intriguing figurines, including Star Wars characters, a Johnny Depp statue and classic dolls. He works both as a management consultant and as an artist – a contrasting lifestyle that surely contributes to his studio’s vibrancy. SHOP THE LOOK Yuji buys his art materials from Tools (www.tools-shop. jp), and we recommend Franc Franc for arty lampshades and other quirky interior decor (www.francfranc.com). For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 45

SAKI, SAKURAKO: KISA TOYOSHIMA; HIROMI, YUJI: MANABU MOROOKA WITH THANKS: LA DÉCO DES JEUNES JAPONAIS, MARKS/EDITIONS DE TOKYO PUBLISHER

Saki Kurumi, Lolita fashion boutique sales staff, Saitama ‘When you wish upon a star, makes no difference who you are.’ The Disney song written for ‘Pinocchio’ should rightfully belong to Saki Kurumi. Surrounded by lace, ribbons and frills, she lives out her dream-come-true fairy tale in an irresistibly charming, Lolita-themed apartment. For Saki, living the Loli life is simply about embracing the ‘kawaii’ (cute) fashion trend. By decorating her dainty room in pink and white – bedcover, pillows, mirror, cabinets, stuffed toys, birdcage, hair accessories, cosmetic cases and rows of ruffled, girlish dresses – Saki has fulfilled her childhood fantasy of embodying the fresh, adorable look she’s loved since she was little. ‘When I was a child, my mother used to dress me up in frills and laces and shower me with Jenny and Licca dolls, which I grew to adore,’ she says. ‘I learned to look at fashion as something fun. I’d like foreigners to appreciate the cuteness of princess fashion and decoration.’ SHOP THE LOOK Home decor and fashion (including dress, Usakumya character goods, hair accessories, jewellery box, gold hanger) from Baby, the Stars Shine Bright (www.babyssb.co.jp).

Promotional feature LOCAL INSIGHT

HOW TO SING LIKE A TOKYOITE

12 WAYS TO

Ah, the humble karaoke box. In Tokyo, the mecca of karaoke, this small space has the power to inspire even the shyest of singers to belt out tunes like no-one’s listening. Japan’s No.1 karaoke brand, DAM, offers a variety of unique functions that let you personalise your experience. In our first edition of ‘How to sing like a Tokyoite’, we invite you to try it out for yourself – and to help you on your way, allow us to introduce you to your guides, ‘kawaii’ girls Anna, Ayumi and Una...

ANNAartist?

AYUMI

ite ARS N ALL ST SOUTHER song? ure = Signat ge’ ‘Univer Pa Mimori by Suzuko e snack? raok = Top ka cumbers Pickled cu

= Favour

artist? The Birthday = Signature song? ‘Koko de Kiss Shite’ by Sheena Ringo = Top karaoke snack? Pocky

= Favourite

UNA

Favo u Beyoncé rite artist? = Sig nature song? ‘True Co by Cynd lors’ i Laupe r = To pk French araoke snack fries ? =

* Some of the services described here are not available at all stores. Please contact individual shops for details.

Feel inspired by your fave pop idol’s music vid

No need to watch those cheesy old ’80s made-for-karaoke videos while you sing along to Katy Perry. You can select to play your chosen song’s music video in the background while you sing along. It’s also worth browsing through some of the other videos on offer – you never know what gems you might come across.

Check your star quality

Already know all the songs on the list? Up the challenge, then, by using the karaoke machine’s scoring function. The computer will rate different aspects of your performance from pitch to rhythm to intonation. No blaming the machine if you don’t get top marks, though. This is not ‘American Idol’.

To select your song, either look for the icon (above), or type the Request No. (below) into the machine.

WE RECOMMEND No. Song 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15

Guren no Yumiya (Anime ver.) Zankoku na Tenshi no Teize GO!!! Moonlight Densetsu Senbonzakura Butter-Fly again the WORLD Sorairo Days The Beginning HONEY Polyrhythm Love Fortune Cookie CHA-LA HEAD-CHA-LA PONPONPON

Note: These 'Request' numbers are only available on DAM machines.

Artist

Request No.

Linked Horizon Yoko Takahashi FLOW DALI WhiteFlame feat. Hatsune Miku Koji Wada YUI NIGHTMARE Shoko Nakagawa ONE OK ROCK L’Arc-en-Ciel Perfume AKB48 Hironobu Kageyama Kyary Pamyu Pamyu

7318-76 1896-04 4472-19 2868-11 7609-91 5961-01 7305-66 4802-88 4139-45 6488-09 4105-29 7404-01 6572-52 2855-01 6539-02

Be someone else

If you’re embarrassed to sing in public, conquer the fear by dressing up and pretending you’re someone else for the night. Choose from a variety of costumes including anime characters or school uniforms (for Britney Spears fans, we presume). Karaoke is about letting go, remember?

Admit you’re not Mariah

As far as we know, no-one’s ever been thrown out of karaoke for having a terrible voice, but you never know. If you’re confident you can handle the songbird’s five octaves, be our guest and put Mariah, Whitney and Christina on your song list. For the rest, it’s probably wiser to select keys that match your vocal range. Your friends will thank us.

WIN AT KARAOKE 5

Call...

Play endless encores

Don’t underestimate the calories you burn while singing (seriously, it’s around 100 calories per hour, and that’s while sitting down). Refuelling is as easy as making a phone call – you can order from a wide variety of restaurant menus, and your edamame beans, French fries or fried chicken will be delivered to your karaoke box.

Choose the ‘no time limit’ option and you can keep singing all night long. This means you don’t have to worry about missing your last train home. Or about that friend who keeps hogging the microphone. The night remains a puppy.

Aim for No. 1

Fancy competing against a Tokyoite? In the ranking battle you select your favourite songs from a list, and then see if you can outdo the best performances of those songs by other challengers. Watch as your name moves up and down the rankings during the singing match, until you reach the number-one spot (hopefully).

Power up between songs

Cheers

Warble in comfort

Just to ensure you’re completely at ease, there are homely ‘concept rooms’ kitted out with couches and cushions. Kick off your shoes, put your feet up and relax like you’re just singing along to the radio at home.

Find your dream world

your (broken) 11 Sing heart out

This is where things get dreamy. Based on various themes that change on a regular basis, characters or idols are projected on to the walls around you. So you could end up singing in a room full of manga characters, or surrounded by your favourite K-pop stars.

Learn steps from a pro

Follow the instructional choreography videos that feature the musician teaching you their song’s dance steps. Alone in the karaoke box, you don’t have to worry about your two left feet – you can practise till perfect. YouTube, here we come.

Public transport doesn’t really allow for those ‘cry-singing with Adele’ moments. But inside the karaoke box you can enjoy hitori (solo) karaoke, letting out all your heartbreak or work frustrations in private. And don’t worry, the staff serving your drinks won’t bat an eyelid.

Set the mood

‘How does the lighting keep changing while we’re singing? Do you think someone’s watching us?’ Relax, there’s no Big Brother at work. It’s just some clever Japanese technology that lets the lights change along with the music. Enjoy.

Promotional feature LOCAL INSIGHT

DIAL IN TO THE LATEST MUSIC AND CULTURE FROM JAPAN

mtv81.com

SONGS TO TRY Not sure which Japanese tunes to choose at karaoke? Here are 25 of our favourites to get you started. Song

Artist

RequestNo.

1 Dream Fighter

Perfume

7404-54

2 The Beginning

ONE OK ROCK

6488-09

3 Beautiful World

Hikaru Utada

6972-20

4 Ikenai Taiyou

ORANGE RANGE

7308-24

5 Love so sweet

ARASHI

7444-41

6 SHIVER

the GazettE

7292-43

7 Heavy Rotation

AKB48

6939-85

8 READY STEADY GO L’Arc-en-Ciel

6946-05

WhiteFlame feat. Hatsune Miku

7609-91

GACKT

6042-49

Kyary Pamyu Pamyu

6539-40

12 Yuki no Hana

Mika Nakashima

6308-33

13 resonance

T.M.Revolution

7002-40

14 Haruka Kanata

ASIAN KUNG-FU GENERATION

4300-73

15 Kiseki

GReeeeN

7401-20

16 PEACH

Ai Otsuka

5517-62

17 Zetsubou Billy

MAXIMUM THE HORMONE

5024-17

9 Senbonzakura 10 Last Song 11

Ninja Re Bang Bang

18 Gimme Chocolate!! BABYMETAL 19

Monochrome no Kiss

2351-41

SID

7242-77

20 Born to be

nano

3691-51

21 Okaeri

Ayaka

7075-19

22 DAITE Senorita

Tomohisa Yamashita

5978-43

23 Gunjyo Biyori

Tokyo Jihen (Tokyo Incidents)

7100-02

24 RAINBOWS

Alice Nine

7066-60

25 Ai no Uta

Mai Fukui

4286-68

The songs listed above are only available in rooms featuring DAM karaoke machines. Please request one of these rooms at the reception. To select the song you want, type the Request No. into the machine.

WHAT’S THE DEAL WITH IDOLS?

apan boasts plenty of unique cultural quirks, but you can’t truly comprehend the country’s contemporary pop culture until you know about idols. A culture all of its own has blossomed around idol units over the decades, and has produced some of the country’s most popular acts of the new generation. But what makes idols something more than your average pop star? It’s how they dabble in almost everything they possibly can. Many appear on TV, model, host radio shows, star in movies and write articles for magazines, as well as of course having their own meticulously kept blog. The top ones do several, if not all, of the above at once. Idols first emerged in Japan during the early 1970s, and have been a staple of the Japanese music landscape ever since. Today, groups command the most attention, from big-name (and number) outfit AKB48 to smaller, more colourful units such as Momoiro Clover Z to niche-catering acts such as BABYMETAL, who merge cheery pop tunes with heavy metal. Whatever shape they take, idols are everywhere in Japan, and offer a unique world to explore.

CAITLIN BURNS

MARTIN JAUCH

Why idol music? ‘I just love to sing! Idol music is super fun to sing along to. The fashion and theatricality are a bonus.’

Favourite idols: Especia ‘Especia has a unique sound, mixing elements of 1980s synthesizers and the retro City Pop style. They also get big points for generous portions of saxophone and talkbox-affected guitar.’

FAN CLUB

85% This is how much physical music sales make up the Japanese music market. And that’s mainly because of idols, whose releases often include bonuses with physical single and album purchases, such as tickets to meet and greets. Hardcore supporters buy multiple copies to get as much time with their musical favourites as possible.

WHAT IS WOTAGEI?

SING THE HITS WHILE YOU SHOP

Dancing isn’t just for idols. A large chunk of the audience will probably be made up of wotagei – dancing fans who have developed specific moves (often involving glowsticks) for every song in a group’s catalogue. Just look for the people stretching before the show starts.

December 2014 saw a new attraction being born in Harajuku. Moshi Moshi Box is a one-of-a-kind information centre right in the heart of Tokyo’s most fashionable district. Far from being a simple tourist desk, it provides English-speaking assistance for those who need sightseeing information, wi-fi, currency exchange and hotel bookings. They’ll also direct you to the best spots for buying souvenirs and welcome you to try out their karaoke room that looks out at young Tokyoites passing by. Who knows, you might even attract an applauding crowd.

WHERE TO MEET YOUR IDOL

=Akushukai: That’s ‘handshake event’ in Japanese. Many singles and albums come with tickets to these happenings, where fans can meet idols for a few seconds of bliss. =Idol theatres: Many popular idol outfits – including AKB48 and their various sister groups – have theatres where they perform nightly. =Dear Stage: For those who prefer upand-coming idol acts, this small venue in Tokyo’s Akihabara neighbourhood features daily performances from fledgling units. =On the street: Take a stroll around Akihabara and you are likely to come across groups handing out flyers for upcoming shows or releases.

ESENTS MTV 81 PR

IDOL ORIGINS

Japan’s infatuation with idols owes a lot to a French film. In 1964, Sylvie Vartan’s movie ‘Cherchez l’idole’ (note the last word) became a hit in Japan, helping the Vartan-sung theme song sell over 1,000,000 copies. Even more French songs trickled into the country, and a wave of young Japanese women recorded covers of them to make the most of this boom. They paved the way for what would soon become idol culture.

TOP FIVE IDOL SONGS

1. Momoiro Clover Z ‘GOUNN’ 2. Dempagumi.inc ‘Denden Passion’ 3. Morning Musume。’14 ‘Beyond the Time and Space’ 4. Negicco ‘HIKARI no SPUR’ 5. AKB48 ‘Love Fortune Cookie’

HARAJUKU STATION

SHIBUYA

KEVIN HEGEDUS

SCOTT R. WHITE

Most unique group: NECRONOMIDOL ‘Their mood reminds me of witchcraft and evening rituals, and their songs sound like the synth-y aspects of Norwegian black metal music with female pop vocals.’

Most ‘kawaii’ group: AKB48 ‘They are basically an institution of kawaii.’

HARAJUKU POLICE SHINJUKU

MEIJI ST. TOKYU PLAZA FamilyMart

WORDS: PATRICK ST. MICHEL

We ask four idol fans about the top current trends

TAKESHITA ST.

OMOTESANDO

Laforet HARAJUKU

3-23-5 1F Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Tel 03-6447-2225 Open 10am-6pm／No regular holidays

Art & Culture Arty baths BUNKAYOKUSEN The art Recently restored by architect Kentaro Imai, Bunkayokusen (文化浴泉) is what’s known as a designer sento. Concerned about the survival of the sento tradition, Kentaro has become a specialist in renovating public baths, hoping to revive interest – and his efforts are paying off as younger people flock to these more modern baths. Kentaro gives each sento he works on a second life, integrating chic details while preserving the traditional atmosphere – in Bunkayokusen’s case, features such as its remarkable wooden ceiling, mosaic wall and mural of Mt Fuji. The mural was painted by Morio Nakajima, one of only three remaining sento mural painters in Japan, who usually focus on images of Mt Fuji because people like to bathe at the ‘foot’ of the mountain. The murals are called ‘penki-e’, named after the kind of paint used, and usually feature the mountain painted in blue on one side and red on the other. The facilities The men’s and women’s baths are slightly different, so they swap sides each day. There are three types of baths – massage,

nanobubble and cold water – and a sauna. The nanobubbles are so small that they penetrate deeply into skin pores and clean them out. Calcium and magnesium are removed from the water to make it softer on the skin. The lobby features a massage chair for extra relaxation. 3-6-8 Higashiyama, Meguro (IkejiriOhashi Station). 03 3792 4126. bunkayokusen.grupo.jp. Tue-Sat 3.30pm -1am, Sun 8am-12pm, 3.30pm-1am, closed Mon. ¥460 (extra ¥300 to use the sauna). KOHMEISEN The art Another designer sento overhauled by Kentaro Imai, Kohmeisen (光明泉) reopened in 2014 in the heart of Nakameguro’s trendy shopping area. Kentaro came up with a design that fits well with the surrounding cityscape – a soft white colour scheme and a mural of Mt Fuji created by graffiti artist Gravity Free. The facilities There are three baths – massage, carbonated and cold water – and a sauna. A rotenburo (outside bath) is available on only one side of the sento, so the men’s and women’s sides are swapped every Friday to allow everyone to experience

Yama no yu Onsen

Kohmeisen

rooftop bathing – a rare treat in central Tokyo. The radium-rich water is good for relieving pain and fatigue. 1-6-1 Kamimeguro, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). 03 3463 9793. kohmeisen.com. Daily 3pm- 1am. ¥460 (extra ¥200 to use the sauna).

Bunkayokusen

50 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

YAMA NO YU ONSEN The art A retro public bath from the mid-Showa period, Yama no yu Onsen (山の湯温泉) features a beautiful Mt Fuji painting by 79-year-old Kiyoto

Maruyama, the oldest of Japan’s three remaining sento painters. Besides the main mural, there are also many smaller paintings on the bathroom tiles as well as in the steam room. Adding an extra arty touch are the original posters by illustrator and regular customer Miho Tanaka. Undoubtedly one of the most picturesque sento we’ve been to. The facilities The round bath in the middle of the room is an unusual feature. It’s divided into two parts – one a jet massage bath

BUNKAYOKUSEN, KOHMEISEN: COURTESY OF KENTARO IMAI (IMAI88.JP), YAMA NO YU ONSEN: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Art & Culture

Sento are popular for their health and relaxation benefits, but did you know many of these public baths feature exquisite artwork too? From the 680 sento in Tokyo, Stephanie Crohin selects six of the prettiest

Kugahara-yu

DAIKOKU-YU: ROBERT KIRSCH, KUGAHARA-YU: KEISUKE TANIGAWA, AIZEN-YU: STEPHANIE CROHIN

Daikoku-yu

and the other an aroma bath that changes its scent every day. The steam sauna room with wormwood aroma is excellent for your skin and can be used at no extra charge. 1-47-12 Kanamecho, Toshima (Kanamecho Station). 03 3957 2679. Tue-Sun 3.30pm-midnight, closed Mon. ¥460. DAIKOKU-YU The art Antique pictures and celebrity autographs line the walls from entrance to locker rooms

and the whole place is filled with objects and souvenirs collected by the owner, making Daikoku-yu (大黒湯) feel almost like a museum. Inside the bathroom, a mosaic mural depicts a European landscape, which the owner tells us was ‘very trendy and new’ when it was first completed 40 years ago. The men’s shower wall features a painting of Kyoto’s famous Kinkakuji (Temple of the Golden Pavilion), while the women’s side is decorated with images of Nikko.

Aizen-yu

The facilities A comfortable massage bath, cold water bath, steam bath, electric bath and sauna. The men’s sauna features a spacious rest room with relaxation chairs. There are also a few fitness machines in the locker room. 3-24-5 Nishihara, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Uehara Station). 03 3485 1701. www.ueharaekimae. com/shop/daikokuyu. Mon-Sat 3.50pm-1.30am, Sun 1pm-1.30am, closed on the 1st and 3rd Wed of every month. ¥460 (extra ¥300 to use the sauna). KUGAHARA-YU The art Opened 60 years ago and recently renovated, Kugahara-yu (久が原湯) features a majestic Mt Fuji mosaic on its bathroom walls. The men’s and women’s sides are decorated with different colour schemes (representing the moon and the sun), but you’ll get a chance to experience both as they rotate the changing rooms every two weeks. The facilities A spacious bath with massage jets, warm carbonated bath (from where you can watch TV), hot bath, cold bath, outdoor bath with black onsen water, steam sauna (free) and dry sauna. 2-14-15 Kugahara, Ota (Kugahara Station). 03 3754 4452. Daily 3pm-midnight, closed on the 4th,

14th and 24th of each month. ¥460 (extra ¥200 to use the dry sauna). AIZEN-YU The art We just love the red carpet in the lobby, the big painting of a cherry blossom tree on a golden background, and the charming antique mirrors at the colourfully retro Aizen-yu (愛染湯). In the bathroom, there’s an impressive 40-year-old mosaic featuring angelic, floating nymphs playing flutes and tossing flowers into the air. Sweet dreams guaranteed. The facilities Five baths offering different types of massages, a nanobubble bath, ultrasound bath, and sauna available for men. Free wi-fi for 30 minutes per customer. Bath ducks on Sundays. 46-7 Yamatocho, Itabashi (Itabashi-Honcho Station). 03 3962 4576. Sat-Thu 3.30pm-11.45pm, closed Fri. For more sento images and info by Stephanie, visit instagram. com/_stephaniemelanie_ or www.tokyosento.com.

For more art and culture features, go to timeout.com/tokyo

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 51

Art & Culture

The mural was done by the oldest of Japan’s three remaining sento artists

Art & Culture

Essential exhibitions

‘Celebrating Two Contemporary Geniuses: Jakuchu and Buson’ Suntory Museum of Art, until May 10 Kyoto-based painters Ito Jakuchu and Yosa Buson made indelible marks on Japanese art history in the middle of the Edo period. Known for expressing traditional themes such as animals and flowers with an experimental style that mesmerised his contemporaries, Jakuchu lived a stable and prosperous life compared to Buson, whose pursuit of both painting and poetry took him on long and arduous travels all over Japan. Marking 300 years since their birth, the work of both of these masters is displayed throughout spring, providing an opportunity to get acquainted with the art of prosperous 18th-century Kyoto. Tokyo Midtown, 9-7-4 Akasaka, Minato. 03 3479 8600. www.suntory. co.jp/sma. 10am-6pm (Fri, Sat, May 3-5 until 8pm), closed Tue (except for May 5). ‘Yamaguchi Akira: Stepping Back to Seek the Underneath’ Art Tower Mito Contemporary Art Gallery, until May 17 Combining contemporary techniques with the traditional styles of ukiyo-e and yamato-e (a classical form of painting developed in the Heian era), Akira Yamaguchi is a master of fusing modern-day motifs with themes from Japanese history and myth. His humorous but often cynical

also became involved in the Japanese avant-garde art scene, collaborating with Shuji Terayama and the Sankai Juku troupe, as well as with next-generation luminaries like Fuyuki Yamakawa and Dommune founder Naohiro Ukawa. ‘Clothed in the Future’ looks back at her remarkable career, from the early modelling years all the way up to her death at age 57, and also features new installations by many of the artists named above. 4-1-1 Miyoshi, Koto. 03 5245 4111. www.mot-artmuseum.jp/eng/. 10am-6pm, closed Mon (except for May 4) & May 7.

take on modernity and repetition of the past is on full display this spring, with each exhibition room revealing a different aspect of his extraordinary artistic world. 1-6-8 Gokencho, Mito-shi, Ibaraki. 029 227 8111. arttowermito.or.jp/index_en.html. 9.30am-6pm, closed Mon (except for May 4).

anime fans will enjoy illustrations from ‘Wish Upon the Pleiades’, the space-themed series from ‘Evangelion’ creators Gainax. 6F Yellow Bldg, Tokyo Dome City, 1-3-61 Koraku, Bunkyo. 03 3814 0109. www.tokyo-dome.co.jp/e/. 11am-9pm (Sat, Sun & hols from 10am), last entry 8pm.

‘Depictions of Space’ Space Museum TeNQ, until Jun 28 Opened last summer, the TeNQ space museum inside Suidobashi’s Tokyo Dome City complex is one of the most visit-worthy new museums in the city. In addition to attractions like the super-HD Theatre Sora and the opportunity to drive a robot, TeNQ also hosts rotating exhibitions, such as this look at space in art from ancient times to modernity. A Meiji-era solar eclipse and Galileo’s sketches of the Moon are presented through historical materials, while

‘Sayoko Yamaguchi The Wearist, Clothed in the Future’ Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo, Apr 11-Jun 28 One of the first Asian supermodels, Sayoko Yamaguchi (1949-2007) got her break in the early ’70s, working with designers like Kansai Yamamoto and Kenzo Takada before making her Paris Fashion Week debut in 1972. This led to a flourishing modelling career in Europe’s fashion capitals, but it soon became clear that she was more than just a pretty face: she

52 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

‘Sou Fujimoto: Futures of the future’ TOTO Gallery Ma, Apr 17-Jun 13 Now widely recognised as part of the next generation of worldclass Japanese architects, Sou Fujimoto’s career so far has been dedicated to pondering what makes urban environments ‘liveable’ and attractive – a theme that runs through this exhibit, consisting of around 100 models of Fujimoto’s

‘CELEBRATING TWO CONTEMPORARY GENIUSES: JAKUCHU AND BUSON’: ELEPHANT AND WHALE SCREENS BY ITO JAKUCHU. PAIR OF SIX-FOLD SCREENS (RIGHT-HAND SCREEN), KANSEI 9 (1797), MIHO MUSEUM; ‘YAMAGUCHI AKIRA: STEPPING BACK TO SEEK THE UNDERNEATH’: THE NINE ASPECTS, 2003, OIL ON CANVAS, COLLECTION OF TAKAHASHI COLLECTION, PHOTO BY KIOKU KEIZO, ©YAMAGUCHI AKIRA, COURTESY MIZUMA ART GALLERY; ‘DEPICTIONS OF SPACE’: GALILEO’S THE PHASES OF THE MOON TELESCOPE DRAWINGS, ©STOCKTREK, IMAGES/GETTYIMAGES; ‘SAYOKO YAMAGUCHI THE WEARIST, CLOTHED IN THE FUTURE’: ISSEY MIYAKE, SAYOKO MODELLING ISSEY’S TRADITIONAL HORSE-REIN STRIPE KIMONO, MADE OF COTTON JERSEY, PRODUCED IN 1975, PHOTO: NORIAKI YOKOSUKA; ‘SOU FUJIMOTO: FUTURES OF THE FUTURE’: L’ARBRE BLANC (MONTPELLIER, FRANCE, UNDER CONSTRUCTION) / ©SFA+NLA+OXO+RSI

Art & Culture

Spring brings a wealth of shows exploring history, space, fashion, architecture and one very talented paper sculptor

recent and current projects. Pushing Japanese architecture into an exciting future, his work hints at the future of cities all around the world. 3F Toto Nogizaka Bldg, 1-24-3 Minami-Aoyama, Minato. 03 3402 1010. www.toto.co.jp/gallerma/. 11am-6pm, closed Mon & hols.

‘TAKAHASHI COLLECTION: MIRROR NEURON’: KATO MIKA, PANSIES, 2001, ©KATO MIKA/COURTESY OF TOMIO KOYAMA GALLERY; ‘EXPOSITION SUZANNE VALADON ET MAURICE UTRILLO’: SUZANNE VALADON ‘NUE DEBOUT ET LE CHAT’, 1919, OIL ON CANVAS, 61×50 PRIVATE COLLECTION; ‘SIMPLE FORMS: CONTEMPLATING BEAUTY’: HENRI MATISSE, FORMS FROM, 1947, STENCIL ON PAPER, 40.8×57.7CM, COLLECTION: THE MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, KAMAKURA & HAYAMA; ‘SU BLACKWELL: DWELLING’: SU BLACKWELL, ‘THE DARKNESS IS RISING’, 2014

3-20-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku. www.operacity.jp/en/ag. 11am-7pm (Fri & Sat until 8pm), closed Mon (except for May 4). ‘Exposition Suzanne Valadon et Maurice Utrillo’ Sompo Japan Nipponkoa Museum of Art, Apr 18-Jun 28 Suzanne Valadon (1865-1938) started her career in art modelling for painters like Lautrec, Renoir and Erik Satie, but was encouraged to pursue her own path by early Impressionist master Edgar Degas. She went on to have a remarkable career, creating powerful portraits and still-lifes, and eventually becoming the first woman admitted to the French Société Nationale des Beaux-Arts. Her son, Maurice Utrillo (1883-1955), also took up fine art and went on to find success with delicate landscape paintings. This exhibit, held to mark 150 years since Valadon’s birth, aims to look at the duo from new perspectives, highlighting the fact that Utrillo’s work bears little resemblance to his mother’s. 42F Sompo Japan Nipponkoa Headquarters Bldg, 1-26-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku. www.sjnk-museum.org/en. 10am-6pm (Fri until 8pm), closed Mon (except for May 4).

‘Su Blackwell: Dwelling’ Pola Museum Annex, Apr 29-Jun 14 London-based paper sculptor Su

Blackwell draws inspiration from fairy tales and folk stories for her delicate works, which will now be exhibited in Japan for the first time. By making intricate cuts on paper, she creates life-like scenes that make the story seem to jump off the pages into the real world. Check out 11 of her ‘living books’, including a new work inspired by the French philosopher Gaston Bachelard. 1-7-7 Ginza, Chuo. 03 5777 8600. www.po-holdings. co.jp/m-annex/. 11am-8pm. For more exhibitions, culture features and artist interviews, go to timeout.com/tokyo

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Art & Culture

‘Takahashi Collection: Mirror Neuron’ Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery, Apr 18-Jun 28 Collector extraordinaire Ryutaro Takahashi’s collection, which continues to play a major role in the Japanese contemporary art scene, is once again in the spotlight. A psychiatrist by trade, Takahashi started collecting art professionally during the ’90s, helping to raise the profiles of names like Takashi Murakami, Yoshitomo Nara, Makoto Aida and Kenji Yanobe, all of whom are now internationally recognised. Curated from more than 2,000 items, this exhibit displays around 140 pieces from 52 different artists, aiming to provide a holistic and historical look at the development of contemporary art in Japan.

‘Simple Forms: Contemplating Beauty’ Mori Art Museum, Apr 25-Jul 5 A splash on the spring art scene, this contemplation of simplicity is divided up into nine sections with themes like the pursuit of simple forms in early 20th-century European thought, the similarities between these ideas and the Zen-influenced views permeating Japanese arts and crafts, as well as the contemporary need for simplicity from the standpoints of sustainability and co-existence. Pieces on display range from folk crafts like tea ceremony utensils to large-scale installations and works of industrial design, giving visitors comprehensive tools to debate the pros and cons of the bare-bones aesthetic. Roppongi Hills, 53F Mori Tower, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato. 03 5777 8600. www.mori.art.museum/ eng. 10am-10pm (until 5pm on Tue except for May 5).

[TOHOKU UPDATE]

Change begins with a cardigan How knitting is helping the people of Kesennuma rebuild their dignity. Words Nick Narigon

amako Mitarai wears a deepblue, hand-knit sweater the colour of the furthest reaches of the ocean. It’s a beautiful garment, but also a poignant one: a vivid reminder of the communities still recovering from the devastation of the March 2011 disaster. We’re talking in a conference room at the office of renowned copywriter Shigesato Itoi, who collaborated with Mitarai three years ago to found the Kesennuma Knitting Co, a for-profit organisation that produces high-end cardigans and sweaters. Most of the knitters, who make sweaters like the one Mitarai is wearing, lost their homes during the earthquake, tsunami and subsequent fires, which levelled the seaport city of Kesennuma, lowering its elevation by almost two metres. Some have moved into new homes. Others are still living in temporary housing. ‘Kesennuma was heavily damaged,’ says Mitarai, 29. ‘Our main purpose is to create jobs for the people and bring back their sense of dignity through the work.’ Itoi and Mitarai first crossed paths because of their mutual interest in Bhutan, a tiny nation in the Himalayas. Mitarai was hired by the Bhutan government in 2010 to promote tourism as part of its Gross National Happiness Commission;

Itoi, who was already interested in the country’s unique culture, discovered her blog, and a bond was formed. After Mitarai returned to Japan in 2012, Itoi asked her to helm his brainchild, and the idea appealed to her entrepreneurial curiosity. ‘Even in a small country like Bhutan, we were able to build a new model that could be respected globally. That kind of can-do mindset is what I gained in Bhutan,’ she says. ‘Sometimes smallness is the advantage. We can work flexibly. It is easier to create something new. Business-wise, it could be done. That was my sense.’ Mitarai previously spent time helping a local government in Tohoku plan its industrial recovery strategy, so she had seen non-profit organisations being set up with

The city’s knitters are famous for their nimble fingers

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support and funding. However, no-one had been willing to move in and establish a business. In her mind, this is where the rebuilding has to start. ‘Industrial recovery is difficult, and a bottom-up approach is needed,’ she says. ‘To say, “Yes, we are recovered,” means people need to be able to live their lives: go to work, buy food, return to their houses and cook dinner. I believe daily life can come back, but the important thing is to ensure there are jobs, and the companies that provide jobs can survive.’ Famous for their nimble fingers, the knitters of Kesennuma are highly regarded, so Mitarai was able to bring in workers with superior skills. Tamako Mitarai has This meant she also learned how to knit

the sweaters herself

needed a superior design template, so she sought the assistance of knitwear designer Mariko Mikuni. Together, they also travelled to the Aran Islands off the coast of Ireland, famous for luxury sweaters, to study the knitting industry there. The Kesennuma Knitting Company was officially registered as a company in 2013 and the orders started to pour in. Production was limited, and demand was so high that customers were chosen by a lottery system for the first two years. Mitarai, who learned how to knit the sweaters herself and lives with a host family in Kesennuma, grew tired of turning down customers, some repeatedly, so she started a waiting list instead. The company now contracts 35 women and is earning a profit, but more importantly, Mitarai says families are returning to a sense of normalcy. ‘The highest point for the knitters was when I announced that for the first financial year, our profit was positive, so we can pay the tax to the city,’ she says. ‘One knitter told me, “Now I can walk the city with my head up proudly.” She felt happy because she can contribute to the city again.’ www.knitting.co.jp

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Music

MIYAVI Music

The rock star on working with Angelina Jolie, the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Unbrokenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; controversy, and the launch of his new album. Words Leslie Lee III

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It was a risk. I knew it could ruin my music career

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Music

IMAGE: MANABU MOROOKA

waiter at the restaurant was a better iyavi was already an singer than me.’ [Laughs] international rock star ‘The Others’ is Miyavi’s most when Angelina Jolie flew diverse album yet. While his to Tokyo to convince him to be in signature sing-along anthems are her next movie. The 33 year-old represented (‘Into the Red’ and ‘Let Osaka native, who is known both for Go’), they give way to atmospheric his solo albums and as a member funk (‘Come Alive’ and ‘Unite’) and of supergroup S.K.I.N., hesitated electro metal (‘Odyssey’ and ‘The before accepting her offer: ‘It was a Others’). He also traded his Taylor risk. I didn’t have any real experience guitar for a Telecaster: ‘Before, I was as an actor and it was a really trying hard to be distinct. I didn’t want controversial story. I knew it could the typical guitar sound, even if it ruin my music career.’ sounded good. Now I’m a little more The risk paid off. Miyavi’s relaxed.’ The album features plenty performance as sadistic prison of Miyavi’s trademark slap-guitar guard The Bird in ‘Unbroken’, style, but the standout track is R&B released Stateside in December tune ‘Alien Girl’. Listening to Miyavi 2014, was widely praised. ‘I knew talk about Angelina Jolie, we have to the more evil I was, the better wonder if the song wasn’t inspired by the story would be,’ he says. The her. He says: ‘She’s so passionate film, coupled with a move to Los and determined in her work. She has Angeles, helped Miyavi rise to major a mission to make the world better. celebrity status. He found himself It’s like she’s not human; she’s come at countless award shows and afterfrom outside of the planet to heal parties; Ellen Degeneres personally this world.’ requested him as a guest on her talk ‘Unbroken’ has caused an outcry show. in Japan because of its portrayal of But although Miyavi’s career the country’s wartime atrocities, and reached new heights, he struggled has yet to find a distributor here. But with his move to the US. ‘The Miyavi has strong words for those atmosphere was so different,’ he Japanese netizens who criticised the says. ‘I had no capacity to handle film before even seeing it: ‘Nobody everything in English. I lost my hates Germany after watching confidence.’ He toured the world but “Schindler’s List”. Everyone knows couldn’t get a car or apartment in the that’s the past and they overcame US: ‘I had no credibility.’ it. Nobody hates Japan after seeing So he decided to focus on what he “Unbroken”. I’m getting positive knows best. ‘When I first moved to comments from all over the world.’ Tokyo at 17, the guitar was the only Miyavi has no regrets about thing that allowed me to be myself. accepting the role or moving to Music saved me.’ LA. He’s already looking Miyavi began work on his forward to the next new album, ‘The Others’, challenge. ‘None of my fans with award-winning R&B thought I’d be acting producer team Drew in a film, especially and Shannon. ‘They speaking English,’ blew me away,’ he he says. ‘I want says of their first to prove to them writing session. ‘The Others’ is out on April 15. that everything ‘Music is their Miyavi’s ‘We Are The Others’ is possible. I try life. It wasn’t tour runs from April 30 in Hiroshima to May 16 at Studio to show my fans about signing Coast in Tokyo. For more info improvement, a contract, visit myv382tokyo.com or achievement and booking a studio, follow Miyavi on Twitter at excitement. then making @miyavi_official. I want to give fans music. They were that positive energy.’ writing lyrics over dinner.’ Miyavi recorded the album in Nashville, and he says he For more music felt a spiritual connection to Music interviews, go to City USA: ‘It was like rehab. Everyone timeout.com/tokyo in Nashville is so musical. Even the

Music

The pioneers Despite a 10-year hiatus, X Japan is still rocking

THE STORY OF

VISUAL KEI

The glories, the tragedies and how these glammed-up rockers have kept their fans coming back for more. Words Bunny Bissoux

icture the scene: the bass player is dressed in a silver crop top and hot pants paired with thigh-high, heeled boots. The drummer’s waist-length, rainbowcoloured hair flails around an outfit of leather bondage gear with every thumping beat. The guitarist plays a wild shredding solo in a Marie Antoinette-style ball gown complete with wig and feathers. The singer winks a fake eyelashed eye from behind wisps of striking white hair before launching into death shrieks and erotic moans. It would be easy to presume at least one of these band members we’re describing is a woman, or that they’re playing at a Halloween hair metal concert in 1987 – or even that this is some kind of performance art show. In fact, this is a fairly typical gig in the modern Japanese world of visual rock, with ‘visual’ being the

operative word. Every weekend, at venues across Shinjuku, Shibuya and Ikebukuro, bands like this entertain a giddy crowd of almost entirely female fans who express their adoration through furious, synchronised arm movements and co-ordinated hair thrashing. This, oh wide-eyed reader, is the intriguing world of visual kei.

Tangled roots

Heavy metal band X Japan, formed in 1982, are widely considered the pioneers of the genre and are also credited with originating the name, which was presumably adopted from their slogan, ‘Psychedelic violence crime of visual shock’. Notorious for their gravitydefying hairstyles, flamboyant clothes and outrageous make-up – which could be interpreted as both warrior-like and hyper-feminine – they predictably shocked parents whilst enthralling teenagers across the nation. Along with bands such as Buck-Tick and D’erlanger, X Japan introduced the country to shocking new visuals and sounds. They kickstarted a movement that saw musicians exploring the

X Japan shocked parents and enthralled teenagers

Visual kei (meaning ‘visual style’, with the ‘kei’ pronounced ‘k’) is a musical genre – and beyond that a subculture – which grew out of a tangled mix of glam rock, punk and new wave influences, combined with kabuki theatre and shojo (manga for young women).

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boundaries of excess, explicitness and androgyny while providing a unique take on Western music styles. Although the music is generally described as heavy rock or metal (including everything from punk to power metal, and later nu-metal, hip-hop, electro and pop), visual kei actually spans a vast array of genres and continues to evolve. A better defining factor is, perhaps, the aesthetics. Dark, gothic, historical and traditional influences are common, and large elements of the look are comparable to the Western rocker styles of yesteryear: big hair, matching leather outfits and elaborate stage costumes. While LA glam metal or the New York Dolls might have experimented with lipstick and lace, visual kei goes one step further in blurring the genders through cross-dressing

They’re a real-life representation of the unattainable princes in a girl’s comic book

Dir En Grey

Raphael’s memorial concert for band member Kazuki (on the screen)

The volatile ’90s

It was in the mid-’90s that the visual scene really took off, with the likes of cross-dressing Shazna (partly inspired by Boy George) and classically influenced Francophiles Malice Mizer, who along with La’cryma Christi and Fanatic Crisis earned themselves the combined nickname ‘The four heavenly kings’. The scene started to become known for its passionate fans who immersed themselves in the subculture, bringing gifts to concerts, cosplaying to look like the band members and establishing strict gig etiquette. However, at the same time, groups such as Luna Sea and Glay were toning down their look in order to appeal to a more mainstream market, and X Japan members had begun concentrating on solo careers. X Japan officially disbanded in 1997, and a year later, lead guitarist Hide, 33, was found dead in an apparent suicide, devastating his many fans. More than 50,000 people attended his funeral and numerous copycat suicides were reported. Further tragedies would occur with the early deaths of Raphael’s 19-year-old guitarist Kazuki, just as the band was rising to fame in 2000, and the 1999 death of Malice Mizer’s drummer Kami, 27, just a few months after the abrupt departure of singer Gackt. Despite the loss of these stars and the constantly changing lineups and break-ups, there was still

Pop goes the visual

Oshare kei band Sug

a regular stream of newcomers. Monthly visual kei magazines (many of which continue today) and TV shows helped to perpetuate the movement, whether underground or in the charts. As anime’s popularity grew overseas, so did visual kei’s, with groups like Dir En Grey, The Gazette and Versailles in particular garnering attention in Europe and

the US. Their main appeal? The uniqueness of the music, which features unusual chord progressions and timing, and of course their exotic visual aesthetic, which mirrors that of anime characters.

New genres

The scene continued to diversify throughout the 2000s with

Music

and androgyny. It’s a theme that works for many of the bands’ story concepts, and also supports the Japanese appetite for idols and appreciation of male beauty and youth. These musicians aren’t just ‘guys in a band’, they’re a real-life representation of the unattainable princes in a girl’s comic book, combined with something cool and exciting. Maybe an ageless bisexual vampire or a fantastical erotic space pirate or a dazzling rock angel… you get the idea.

wider musical crossovers and a constant push for visual innovation. Subgenres were defined – and debated. For example, angura kei (‘angura’ stems from ‘underground’) was the name given to bands that used traditional Japanese themes or uniforms, such as kimonos. Meanwhile, eroguro kei (taken from a combination of ‘erotic’ and ‘grotesque’) was for groups like Cali≠gari and early Dir En Grey, who incorporated disturbing horror themes and shock tactics into their stage shows, artwork and music videos. Kurofuku kei, on the other hand, was for groups who favoured classic but edgy all-black clothing. Many bands formed in the mid 2000s or later are described as neo visual kei, a label that perhaps marks the point at which the focus changed from the music to the marketability of the group. This period saw the introduction of oshare (‘fashionable’) kei, used to describe a new style of pop-influenced visual bands with lighter themes and more playful looks. Bands like An Cafe, LM.C and Sug introduced a friendlier side of visual kei and appealed to an increasingly mainstream audience. Sug frontman Takeru even launched his own fashion label, Million $ Orchestra, in 2010 – a clever move, since visual kei has always had a strong influence on Japanese street style as well as host club fashion.

The visual kei movement today is basically a parallel of the J-pop idol system, which encourages a kind of pseudo intimacy between artists and fans – for example, by giving rewards to the most loyal fans, or rather to those who spend the most money. Bands are expected to take a handson approach to marketing, engaging in ‘fan service’ – which could be anything from uploading photos and videos on social media to acting out homoerotic role-plays on stage. For a movement that originally prided itself on being different, it now attracts those who want to ‘look’ visual kei. Genuine originality (in the music, at least) seems to be dying out. But the fans are still screaming, Up-and-coming ba and that’s nd Kuroyuri to Kage’s ‘fan service what counts. ’ photo Isn’t it?

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Nightlife

If you miss your last train home… …there’s no need to camp out on the cold tiles of Shinjuku Station. William Bradbury spent a couple of sleepless nights hunting down things to do in Shinjuku, Shibuya and Roppongi in the hours before sunrise

o you go out for a few drinks but somehow 12.30am slips by without you noticing – and with it, your last train home. Your friends are nowhere to be found, a taxi costs too much, and you live too far from central Tokyo to even think about walking home. If you’re not inebriated enough to find the situation funny – or exciting – panic can set in as you wonder how you’re going to fill up those dark and lonely hours between 1am and dawn. Just remember, this is Tokyo, and your options are endless. Here are six late-night spots to choose from, whether you want to keep drinking, fill up on ramen or kick back in a capsule hotel… or all of the above. NAGI BUTAO Best for: those who skipped dinner Like that last train, dinnertime can also slip by without you noticing. And by the time you clock just how ravenous you are, most restaurants are closed. Nagi Butao in Shibuya, however, will serve you ramen until 3am. If you want something familiar and satisfying, they have tonkotsu (pork) ramen. If you’re feeling more adventurous, there’s a black version made with squid ink and garlic oil.

The ramen is customisable – you can choose the length of the noodles, as well as how long they’re cooked for – and there are signs written in English, so don’t worry if you have trouble reading the ticket machine at the entrance. We went to the Shibuya branch, but there are others in Shinjuku’s Golden Gai (open 24 hours) and Omiya if you find yourself stranded elsewhere. 1-3-1 Higashi, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03-34990390. tinyurl.com/TOTnagibutao. 11am-3am, last order 2.30am (until 9pm on Sun and hol). For more latenight ramen options, visit tinyurl.com/ TOTnight-ramen. EST Best for: darts till dawn If you’re the kind of person who needs to keep busy to stay awake, then EST is your best bet. This entertainment complex is just a short walk from Shibuya Station’s east exit, and has multiple floors offering darts, ping-pong, pool, karaoke, and UV-lit bowling. They serve snacks including sausages, fries and takoyaki (octopus balls), and if you want to have a beer while you bowl, you can buy one on the 8th floor (karaoke)

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and take it downstairs. When we visited, there was definitely more focus on beer drinking than bowling technique. Best of all, EST stays open until 5.30am, just in time for your first train home. 1-14-14 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). tinyurl.com/TOTestshibuya. Daily 10am-5.30am. TRUMP ROOM Best for: stylish dance floor fiends Just around the corner from Tower Records in Shibuya, Trump Room’s scruffy exterior tells nothing of the chandeliers, mirrors and wall-mounted deer heads you’ll find inside. In comparison to nearby behemoths such as Club Camelot, the tight rooms leading off a central staircase can seem claustrophobic when it’s packed, but at least you’ll never feel alone here. There isn’t really a dance floor as such; instead, there are small spaces where groups of revellers dance near the DJs. The multiple floors play music ranging from drum and bass and EDM to house and ’80s music. Most people are either locked in conversation or on the lookout for one, and there’s more focus on appreciating edgy fashion than engaging in the sort of primal activities

you would at other clubs in the area. 1-12-14 Jinnan, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3770 2325. tinyurl.com/ TOTtrumproom. 10pm-sunrise. TOHO CINEMAS ROPPONGI HILLS Best for: film fanatics Perhaps the best drawcard here for those looking for a soft landing is the comfy seating. But the main reason this Roppongi multiplex made our list is because it offers all-night screenings on Friday and Saturday nights. Most of the late-night shows start at midnight or 12.30am and cater to a broad variety of tastes: on a recent visit, we had choices ranging from Oscar fare such as ‘Boyhood’ to ‘Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles’. It takes around five minutes to get there from Roppongi Station’s exit 3. 6-10-2 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station). tinyurl.com/TOTtohoroppongi. 050 6868 5024. 8 BIT CAFÉ Best for: video-game geeks Whisky making you nostalgic? Bring those ’80s and ’90s memories to life by playing a game of Mario Kart on a Super Nintendo at 8 Bit Café. Everywhere you look,

TRUMP ROOM, 8 BIT CAFE: KEISUKE TANIGAWA, NAGI BUTAO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

Nightlife

Trump Room (left and above), EST (this photo), Nagi Butao (right)

Green Plaza’s capsule hotel (left and this photo), 8 Bit Café (below)

Play a game of Mario Kart on a Super Nintendo Nightlife

there are comics, figurines and posters, with plenty of video game consoles to keep you occupied. Drinks like Princess Peach’s Temptation and Dr Mario add to the experience, while the café serves up pasta and desserts such as custard or the curiously named ‘cake cheese’. Ideal for those wanting to mingle with Japanese otaku (geeks), and it’s just outside exit C5 of Shinjuku-

Sanchome Station, so the ‘walk of shame’ will be short. 5F Q Bldg, 3-8-9 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (ShinjukuSanchome Station). tinyurl.com/ TOT8bit. 03 3358 0407. 7pm-12am (until 5am Fri and Sat); closed Tue. GREEN PLAZA Best for: spa treatments and capsule sleeping Need to escape the Kabukicho madness? Green Plaza is a good

place to box yourself up for the night. And we do mean box – if you rent a room at this complex’s capsule hotel, you’ll have just enough space to sit up and read a book or watch TV (that said, the capsules here aren’t the coffin-like structures you see on the Net). While the website says check-in closes at midnight, they’ll let you in after this if there’s space. There’s also a restaurant and a spa with sento bath, saunas and massage treatments –

available 24 hours a day. Note they don’t accept guests who are under-18, have tattoos or can’t walk in a straight line. 1-29-2 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). www.hgpshinjuku. jp/en. 03 3207 5411. Hotel from 3pm-10am, spa 24 hours. For more nightlife, bars and clubs, go to timeout.com/tokyo

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Nightlife

Bars with a view Get a taste of the high life

okyo is undoubtedly prettiest when viewed from high up, and even more breathtaking when night falls and the city becomes a sea of lights. Most people have a favourite spot for viewing the spectacle, but it takes time choosing from the vast selection of rooftop restaurants and bars – and it can be expensive if you’re on a tight budget. Whether you’re looking to impress a Tokyo newbie, planning a very special date or just want to feel like a VIP for a few hours, check out the six top spots we’ve chosen here (and visit our website for more). All of these offer noteworthy night-time views, ranging from classic skyscraper vistas to offbeat perspectives, and are accessible even to thrifty drinkers on the hunt for a little luxury.

restaurant is open 24 hours a day to guests (6.30am until midnight for the rest of us) and boasts an outdoor terrace that’s become one of the most sought after in town. Those who can’t secure a spot will find comfort in the fact that most of the indoor seats still offer superb views of the Skytree and surrounds. 2-16-11 Kaminarimon, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 5826 3876. tinyurl. com/TOTr-bar. Dinner 5pm-9pm, bar open till 12am.

R’s outdoor terrace has become one of the most sought after in town

R Restaurant & Bar Found on the 13th floor of Asakusa’s Gate Hotel, this bistro-style 62 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Sky Lounge Stellar Garden Although the Skytree is taller, newer and fancier, many Tokyoites still prefer good old Tokyo Tower over its upstart challenger. If you agree that the city’s original symbol and beloved Eiffel Tower rip-off is still number one, you owe it to yourself to check out the Prince Park Tower’s 33rd-floor Sky Lounge and its eye-popping views of the orange-and-white mast. Especially stunning when lit up at

WORDS: TAMASABURAU AND TIME OUT TOKYO WRITERS

R Restaurant & Bar. Above: Sky Lounge Stellar Garden

From far left: Xex Daikanyama, Office, Star Road. Below: Deva

Road is the perfect place for impressing a dinner date. 30F Hotel Grand Pacific Le Daiba, 2-6-1 Daiba, Minato (Daiba Station). 03 5500 6605. tinyurl.com/TOTstar-road. Dinner 5.30pm-9pm daily (bar open till 11pm). Deva Press the intercom at the front entrance of one of the posh buildings overlooking Ebisu Park and you’ll

gain entrance to an elevator that’ll take you up to Deva, a stylish hideout bar with plum views of the entire Shibuya area. In business since the late ’90s, this spot is especially good for date nights and other special occasions – and the (relatively) fair prices don’t hurt either. 7F UN Park Bldg, 1-19-6 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 050 5789 9877. tinyurl.com/TOTdeva. Mon-Sat 7pm-4am. Cover charge ¥500.

Star Road There are plenty of bars claiming to offer the ‘best night-time view in Tokyo’, but the Grand Pacific’s 30th-floor showpiece sure gets at least a podium spot. With unimpeded views of the waterfront, Tokyo Tower, Rainbow Bridge, the Skytree and the towers along the mouth of the Sumida River, Star

DEVA: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Xex Daikanyama This restaurant/bar complex offers two great spots for red-blooded romantics. The bar is all sultry jazz ambience and quality cocktails, while outside on the terrace a pool surrounded by flickering lanterns creates a Balinese-style luxury. Note: while anyone is welcome to enter, Xex operates a membership system that reserves many of the best seats for those willing to shell out a ¥32,400 joining fee plus ¥7,560 per month. 3F La Fuente Daikanyama, 11-1 Sarugakucho, Shibuya (Daikanyama Station). 03 3476 0065. www.xexgroup.jp/daikanyama. 6pm-3am daily.

Office You’ll find that theme bars of all descriptions abound in Tokyo, but none has quite the same bizarrely unattractive concept as Office – there’s a photocopier by the window, power points for workaholics and bookshelves against the wall. So why did it make the cut for this list? The owners seem not to have noticed that their bar offers the best view in the area. Plus, DJs play mellow tunes most nights, and the crowd is made up of young, urban trendies. 5F Yamazaki Bldg, 2-7-18 Kita-Aoyama, Minato (Gaienmae Station). 03 5786 1052. tinyurl.com/TOTofficebar. Mon-Sat 7pm-3am.

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Nightlife

night, the tower is best viewed from the ‘pair seats’ by the windows. They offer a good selection of wines by the glass, too. 33F The Prince Park Tower Tokyo, 4-8-1 Shiba Koen, Minato (Akabanebashi Station). 03 5400 1154. tinyurl.com/ TOTskylounge. Mon-Sat 5pm-2am, Sun & hol 3pm-12am.

LGBT W

hen Shibuya Ward’s mayor Toshitake Kuwahara unexpectedly announced in February that the ward would be submitting a draft in the upcoming assembly to issue ‘marriage-status’ certificates to same-sex couples for the first time in Japanese history, the news made headlines. While this seems like a big leap forward for Japan, where basic rights of this nature have until now remained off the table at legislative meetings, many wondered what the proposed marriage certificate would actually mean, practically speaking. For an inside look at how Shibuya came to make such a revolutionary move, we asked writer Yuki Keiser, a specialist in LGBT issues, to interview Ken Hasebe, Shibuya council member

and the man behind the certificate initiative. Hasebe told Keiser that while he originally held some prejudice towards same-sex couples, he came to realise that they are no different from him. He also realised that Japan is lagging behind the rest of the world in this area and feels that if Tokyo, and Japan in general, is to become an attractive global destination, we must catch up. And he wanted Shibuya Ward to act as front-runner. At the time of going to print, the certification system had not yet been passed, but if it does get approved, it will be available to certified residents of Shibuya. Registered couples would be entitled to treatment equal to that of married heterosexual couples at Shibuya Ward-based facilities such as hospitals and real estate agencies, but it would not have any effect on nationally legislated matters such as inheritance. Hasebe says it will realistically be some time before major changes come into effect. But for now, it is intended to help those who have unfounded concerns about such policies ‘eroding the concept of marriage’ to ‘realise that nothing will change in their lives even after it is implemented’. MEANWHILE, GAY CEREMONIES ARE ON THE UP In 2013, actress Higashi Koyuki married her girlfriend at Tokyo Disneyland, tweeting afterwards: ‘My partner Hiroko and I just held a gay wedding at the Tokyo Disney Resort. Even Mickey and Minnie are here to celebrate with us!’ Since

then, other venues have begun offering their services to gay couples looking to hold a ceremony (although the marriage is only symbolic and grants the couple no legal standing). Kyoto’s Shunkoin Temple recently made headlines as the first temple in Japan to support gay weddings. The temple is a member of the Rinzai school of Buddhism and decided to start hosting ceremonies for samesex couples after a surge of interest from around the world. Vice abbot Zenryu Kawakami tells us, ‘We don’t give special treatment to samesex couples, nor do we make any unnecessary distinction between groups. All are welcome.’ As the stewards of tradition, has this temple and its progressive stance drawn criticism? ‘We have had no complaints from parishioners or those in the Buddhist practice. We occasionally get a complaint from some unrelated party, but it’s enough to tell them the story of Japan’s Izanagi and Izanami (two genderless gods), and they shut up.’ Although progress towards acceptance of same-sex couples is still slow in Japan, these small steps are encouraging and are helping the public to understand the process from a logical, rather than emotional, point of view. As Hasebe very logically points out: ‘Statistically, there are as many homosexuals in Japan as there are people with the top four surnames (Saito, Suzuki, Takahashi and Tanaka).’

CROSSING THE THRESHOLD So you had a gay wedding, but can you live together in Japan?

Even if Shibuya Ward’s marriage certification system gets passed, gay couples still face a few hurdles when it comes to renting an apartment together as some estate agencies or landlords are still prejudiced. Medirect, an LGBT-friendly realtor, is here to help. The process they offer is exactly the same as at any other realtor, but the difference is that they offer a place where couples can go without facing unnecessary questions and judgement that might come with walking into a mainstream realtor’s office. Medirect does not publicise that it is searching on behalf of same-sex couples, but some landlords do get suspicious and broach the subject. On these occasions, Medirect is honest with the client, but says they have never been turned down on the grounds of seeking a lease for same-sex couples. With regards to Shibuya Ward’s proposed new bill, one agent at Medirect comments: ‘We figure landlords are keeping their eyes peeled on this situation. At least for the short term, nothing is likely to change. But if the bill means that same-sex couples are recognised as being just like any other couple, this will be a change for the better.’ medirect.jp

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IMAGE: IPGGUTENBERGUKLTD/ISTOCK

LGBT

‘I do’

Good news for gay couples in Shibuya – plus, the first temple to support same-sex weddings. Words Kosuke Shimizu

Read Yuki Keiser’s full interview with Ken Hasebe at tinyurl. com/TOTgaymarriage

Promotional feature

LOCAL INSIGHT

THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS

At Robot Restaurant you get a mixture of Japan’s most traditional arts and most futuristic settings and performances Japan is famous for matsuri. These historic festivals happen everywhere throughout the year and are peppered with colourful traditions, costumes and floats. Although Robot Restaurant is a loud, glittery world of futuristic characters, you’ll notice there are hints at Japan’s most time-honoured customs. We like to think of it as the matsuri of the future. Here, we look at how the show combines traditions while also introducing glitz, glam and, of course, the all-important robots.

NAL O I T I D A THE TR

TAIKO Referred to as ‘the heartbeat of Japan’, taiko drumming is a significant part of many festivals in Japan. There is much speculation about its origins, but taiko is believed to have been around for over 2,000 years, and is said to be the first example of native Japanese music to have spread throughout the world. In the same way that the powerful drumbeat signals the beginning of a matsuri, the show at Robot Restaurant kicks off with a female troupe of wild taiko drummers who bang on their illuminated instruments with fierce energy.

WORDS: MAYUMI KOYAMA, IMAGES: MANABU MOROOKA

KIMONOS Japan’s omotenashi (spirit of hospitality) is said to be the best in the world. In the old days, geisha played an important role in omotenashi, welcoming and performing for guests while wearing elaborate kimonos and make-up. For this season’s show, Robot Restaurant introduces a new performance teeming with cheerful geishas. The stage is transformed into a huge platform with the kimono-wearing dancers holding traditional umbrellas and playing ear-splitting electric guitar.

Bring this issue of Time Out Tokyo magazine with you to Robot Restaurant and get ¥1,000 off your bill.

HOW TO BOOK

Robot Restaurant is open for three shows daily (four on weekends), starting at 5.55pm, 7.50pm and 9.45pm, and the format is changed every few months to keep things fresh. You can reserve your spot a couple of days ahead by calling the number below between 9am and 10pm. The entrance fee is ¥7,000, excluding food and drinks. Shinjuku Robot Bldg, 1-7-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 3200 5500. www.shinjuku-robot.com. 4pm-11pm daily.

THE FUT URISTIC JOSEN To describe their ‘girl power’ team, Robot Restaurant made up the word ‘Josen’, which translates as ‘fighting women’. You’ll see them throughout the show – singing, dancing, fighting off beasts – but they’re at their most impressive when performing alongside or on top of the array of imposing robots. You could also call them ‘Every man’s fantasy’. THE ROBOTS To make sure return guests are never left feeling bored, Robot Restaurant regularly introduces new robots to their lineup. They’ve even had to expand their storage space to make room for all the new ’bots. When we visited last month, the newest one to catch our attention was this massive snake that slithers around the stage. If you’re sitting in the front row, be sure to lean back when his gigantic head comes your way, or risk being smothered with his gaseous breath.

Sport A day at the races Leave that wide-brimmed hat at home – in Japan, horse racing (keiba) is cheap and casual, with gamblers aplenty. Here’s where to go, how to bet and who you’ll be shaking hands with. Words Benjamin Boas and Yoshitaka Munehiro

lthough Japanese keiba is far from the dressed-up affair most of us imagine when we think of a day at the races, the racehorses here are some of the strongest in the world. It’ll only cost you about ¥100 or ¥200 to get in, and you’ll quickly realise that the focus is on betting rather than who’s wearing the tallest top hat. Japan boasts 25 racing tracks, with two of them in Tokyo – Tokyo Racecourse in Fuchu and Ohi Racecourse (also known as Tokyo City Keiba) in Shinagawa. Most tracks are open from 9am to 5pm, but Ohi hosts ‘twinkle’ races at certain times during the year that go on until as late as 9pm.

Sport

THE THREE TYPES OF KEIBA

Jump racing: the obstacle course Rather than just speed, jump racing (also known as steeple chasing) puts an emphasis on a horse’s ability to navigate different obstacles. Horses generally run a longer distance, sometimes around 4,000m, and must traverse hedges, fences and water. What sets Japanese jump racing apart from the rest of the world is primarily its purse. The largest such event, the Nakayama Grand Jump, offers a prize pool of over ¥120 million. The horses that race are also unique in that few of them specialise in the steeplechase and virtually all of them have flat racing experience. In most other countries, horses run one or the other. Shake hands with The fun-seeking gyaru (gal). The steeplechase is a great place to see spills and thrills, and older horse-watchers tend to stay away from this type of race. Hold on to your, well, horses. Ban’ei: the power race Also known as draft racing, this is a whole different horse game. Held only in Obihiro, in the cold Tokachi region of the northern island of Hokkaido, Ban’ei is not so much a race as an equestrian endurance marathon. The horses run a comparatively shorter distance – 200m – but must do so while hauling a massively heavy sledge. Ban’ei horses are enormous compared to regular racing thoroughbreds, averaging roughly 1,000kg. That’s over double the average racing horse’s weight. Shake hands with The adventuring ojisan (old dude) – because only the most committed gamblers will stand around in temperatures as low as minus 20°C while jockeys coax and coach their horses over the track’s obstacles. 66 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

PLASTIC HORSES: FARA SPENCE/SHUTTERSTOCK, FLAT RACING: JRA, JUMP RACING: NEIL ROY JOHNSON/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM, BAN’EI: PHOTO@YOSHIDA/PIXTA

Flat racing: old favourite This is the type of sport most people think of when they picture conventional horse racing. Horses run around a flat track and whichever equine’s nose crosses the finish line first is the winner. Shake hands with Mr Everyman the Salaryman. Horses! Grass! The thrill of gambling! Who wouldn’t love it? Flat racing is for everyone.

JAPAN’S TOP RACE HORSES

PLACE YOUR BETS 馬単 (Exacta)

The picky older sister of the Quinella – you have to get the order right this time. Pick the first- and second-place horses.

３連複 (Trio)

If you want to pick three horses, this one’s for you. Wow, so indecisive! Order doesn’t matter.

単勝 (Win)

Simple enough – your horse wins, you get paid!

複勝 (Place)

A place ticket pays if your horse gets at least 3rd place, but the purse is smaller.

馬連 (Quinella)

Can’t make up your mind between two horses? Pick both the winner and 2nd place finisher and you still win. Order doesn’t matter.

３連単 (Trifecta)

This one’s for the psychics. Pick the first-, secondand third-place finishers in exact order.

WIN5

The powerball of keiba. Your ¥100 ticket could turn into as much as ¥600 million if you get this one right: pick the winner of five specially designated races.

DID YOU KNOW?

RACECOURSE: 301ASH/PIXTA, HORSES RACING: JRA

● Off-track betting institutions number around 100. You can often spot them near major stations with their horse insignia and Wins logo.

WINS

● Horse racing is not only the most popular

of Japan’s official forms of gambling, it also has a very international history. After US WINS Commodore Matthew Perry opened Japan to the world in the 19th century, horse racing was introduced by the Europeans who came to live in Yokohama – which explains why Japan favours European-style turf courses over American-style dirt tracks.

● In Japan, it is possible to watch – and bet on – horse races via the internet and your smartphone.

3. Hakusan Moon Perhaps a ballplayer in a previous life, Hakusan Moon is a superstitious horse who spins in circles before each game despite his jockey’s best efforts to make him stop. His method seems to work though – he has finished second in Japan’s G1 race. 4. Rouge Buck Only three years old, Rouge Buck is the strongest ranked female horse right now, with a reputation for being able to beat any male horse. It’s rumoured she might be able to win the Japanese Derby. 5. Kizuna With Deep Impact as his father, Kizuna was destined for big wins. Although already considered an ‘elder’ on the racing scene, he still excites fans. For more Sport & Fitness listings and features, go to timeout.com/tokyo

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Sport

Horse racing terminology can be difficult to understand, even in English. Here’s a brief guide to help you place your bets in Japan. Note that tickets can be purchased up until two minutes before post time. If your ticket wins, you can redeem it at one of the automated payoff machines.

1. Deep Impact His name is over the top, but this horse’s record is too. One of the most successful horses in Japan’s recent history, Deep Impact won 12 out of the 14 races he participated in. 2. Orfevre (French for ‘goldsmith’) Another strong horse in Japan’s racing history, Orfevre’s quirks may have kept him from reaching no. 1 – he once scampered off course during a race only to make an amazing comeback.

Film

PAPRIKA (2006) While research psychologist Dr Atsuko Chiba is involved in the development of a device to monitor people’s consciousness, she has two personas. She invents a device called the ‘DC mini’, which allows the user to view people’s dreams. And as dream detective ‘Paprika’, she helps her patients by entering their dreams to remove their trauma and heal mental illness. The film is based on Yasutaka Tsutsui’s 1993 novel.

Shinjuku Swan

An education Planning a trip to Tokyo? Here’s our pick of the top ten Japanese films you should watch to learn about the country’s history, culture and modern society TOKYO STORY (1953), DRAMA The plot When an old couple visit their children in Tokyo, their kids are too caught up with city life to spend time with them. Their widowed daughter-in-law, by contrast, takes them in. What you’ll learn See what Tokyo and Onomichi looked like during the golden Showa era in this Yasujiro Ozu masterpiece that questions what it means to be family. TETSUO: THE IRON MAN (1989), CULT HORROR, SCI-FI The plot A ‘metal fetishist’ gets knocked over by a car, then takes revenge by slowly turning the driver’s body into one big piece of metal. What you’ll learn Like Katsuhiro Otomo’s ‘Akira’, this film is said to be one of Japan’s representative cult classics. It’s a graphic, underground, black-and-white film that illustrates why Japanese horror out-spooks the rest. SONATINE (1993), CRIME DRAMA The plot One of Takeshi Kitano’s (aka Beat Takeshi) most praised films. He directs and stars as a Tokyo yakuza member who is sent to Okinawa to resolve a gang dispute. What you’ll learn Get insight into yakuza culture and the beauty of Okinawa, but also what an orthodox summer holiday is like in Japan. AIR DOLL (2009), FANTASY DRAMA The plot Inflatable sex doll comes to life, starts an adventure in the human world and

falls in love with the guy from the rental video shop, where she also starts working. What you’ll learn What happens behind closed doors in the lives of single salarymen as director Hirokazu Koreeda explores the loneliness of living in a modern, massive city. I GIVE MY FIRST LOVE TO YOU (2009), ROMANCE The plot Based on an eponymous manga, this was one of 2009’s highest grossing movies in Japan and follows the relationship between Takuma, who is told he won’t live past 20 because of a heart condition, and his childhood friend Mayu. What you’ll learn Although ‘Air Doll’ would have you think otherwise, innocent first love is alive and well in Japan. SHINJUKU SWAN (MAY 30, 2015), ACTION The plot This live-action film adaptation of Ken Wakui’s manga series sees penniless Tatsuhiko Shiratori take a job as a scout who recruits women for the adult entertainment business. What you’ll learn With many of Wakui’s own reallife experiences serving as inspiration, you’ll be getting a proper behind-the-scenes look at Japan’s infamous red-light district, Kabukicho. For upcoming events and movie reviews see timeout.com/tokyo

68 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

THE GIRL WHO LEAPT THROUGH TIME (2006) A high-school teen discovers she can time-hop and attempts to use her power to change things for the better. See a different style of Japanese animation that forgoes the usual cute, oversized facial features and also balances fantasy with daily life in Japan. PRINCESS MONONOKE (1997) Cursed by a demon, a tribal prince sets out on a quest for a cure, meets a girl raised by wolves and gets caught up in a struggle between nature and the forces of ‘progress’ in this most morally complex of Hayao Miyazaki masterpieces. The story portrays how respect for natural life and the environment forms the basis of the Japanese worldview. Take this lesson to heart – or prepare to face the wrath of ancient spirits and grumpy apes with questionable grammar. GRAVE OF THE FIREFLIES (1988) Young Seita and Setsuko struggle to survive World War II and end up living in a cave. Based on a semiautobiographical novel by Akiyuki Nosaka and animated by the famed Studio Ghibli, this is known as one of the best anti-war films, giving viewers a poignant look at the consequences of war.

Film

Paprika

THE ANIME CONTENDERS

Travel & Hotels

48 HOURS IN

From above: Kissa American, Osaka Osho

OSAKA

Easily accessible from Tokyo, western Japan’s largest city offers something entirely different. Jun Igarashi hunts down the best shops, restaurants, bars and hotels

tepping foot in Osaka feels almost as though you’ve landed in a different country, with its original character found in all corners. Visit any one of the many fashionable stores that litter the centre of the city and you’ll notice a bolder, friendlier attitude from sales assistants. Pop into any one of the almost absurd number of restaurants that jostle for space and you’ll quickly realise this city has an incredible appetite, with the biggest bonus being that Osaka is a champion of cheap (and delicious) eats. Come with us now as we take you on a two-day journey of non-stop exploration and discovery.

DAY 1 9am Eat breakfast at a jun-kissa Jun-kissa means ‘a pure and simple (junsui) café’. These kinds of eateries display retro plastic food samples at the front of the store and

offer light meals, dessert and coffee. Osaka’s city centre is dotted with jun-kissa, with Kissa American in the Dotonbori area (1-7-4 Dotonbori, Chuo, 06 6211 2100) being one of the best. The storefront food display, the chandeliers in the stairwell, the vintage sofas and decor: all of these convey the history of a shop that opened just after World War II and walked with Japan during its period of rapid development. Jun-kissa that open early in the morning are called moningu (‘morning’) by regulars, and their breakfast menus and coffee mark the start of these customers’ days. Another popular dish is the hot cakes – thick traditional pancakes cooked on an iron grill. For these, try Daiya in Fukushima

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(6-1-26 Fukushima, Fukushima, 06 6458 3688) – their three centimetrethick pancakes (¥550) are best eaten in big mouthfuls, smothered in lots of butter and maple syrup.

11am Explore Tennoji: Abeno Harukas shopping complex, Tennoji Zoo, Shitennoji Temple After our morning coffee break, we set off for a walk through Abeno and Tennoji. The Abeno Harukas complex (1-1-43 Abenosuji, Abeno, 06 6624 1111, www.abenoharukas-300.jp/ en/) is a new landmark here and, at 300m, is the tallest commercial high-rise in Japan. For a panoramic view of the city, head to Harukas 300, an observatory located on the 60th floor (admission ¥1,500).

Or, even better, splurge on a stay at the Osaka Marriott Miyako Hotel, located on the upper floors. A ten-minute walk from here takes you to Tennoji Zoo (1-108 Chausuyama, Tennoji, 06 6771 8401, www.tenzoo.jp/english/tennnouji. html) where you can see 200 animal species. The zoo is approaching its 100th anniversary, so it’s not in the newest condition, but this does lend a distinct retro atmosphere to the place. Walk another ten minutes from the zoo and you’ll come to Shitennoji (1-11-18 Shitennoji, Tennoji, 06 6771 0066), Japan’s first authentic Buddhist temple said to have been built by Prince Shotoku in 593 and featuring one of Japan’s oldest architectural styles and a number of important cultural artifacts.

1pm Have lunch at Jan-Jan Yokocho Visit Jan-Jan Yokocho (3 EbisuHigashi, Naniwa) and you’ll see just why Osaka is known as the city where you eat-till-you-drop. Stretching from

Clockwise from this photo: Misono (also right), Maishima Incineration Plant, takoyaki stall

MAIN IMAGE: KISA TOYOSHIMA, ALL OTHER IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

observation tower Tsutenkaku, a popular sightseeing spot, to Dobutsuen-mae Station, this alley is crowded with restaurants serving everyday fare such as kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers), Korean BBQ, sushi and udon (thick noodles). Kushikatsu is about ¥100 a skewer and comes with all-you-can-eat cabbage. Be warned: double-dipping in the sauce placed on the table is frowned upon.

3pm Stop by the arty incineration plant Think of this as a social studies field trip. Although the recently opened ‘Harry Potter’ attraction at nearby Universal Studios of Japan (USJ) is drawing in plenty of tourists, we think this garbage treatment plant is way more interesting. The Maishima Incineration Plant was designed in the late ’90s by Austrian artist and architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser, based on his philosophy that ‘straight lines and identical things do not exist in

nature’. It’s a phenomenal colourful, wave-like structure featuring vegetation sprouting from the windows to attract birds and other animals. To visit, you need to make a reservation one week in advance and be accompanied by someone who understands Japanese. 1-2-48 Hokukoshiratsu, Konohana. 06 6463 4153. tinyurl.com/TOTmaishima

7pm Tuck into sukiyaki or shabu-shabu for dinner Hariju Dotonbori is a legendary Osaka restaurant with a 100-year history that’s evident in the decor and atmospheric setting. Here, you can savour the melt-in-the-mouth texture of Japanese beef in sukiyaki or shabu-shabu dishes. All dinners are fixed courses with prices varying from ¥7,000 to ¥17,000 according

9pm Spend a night on the town Standard Bookstore in Shinsaibashi (2-2-12 Nishi-Shinsaibashi, Chuo, 06 6484 2239) is just the right place for some postprandial browsing of novels, magazines, photo tomes and art books. Afterwards, explore the backstreets of the Namba district, located on the east side of Namba Station and filled with shops and bars that have recently enjoyed a bit of a growth spurt. Check out the six-storey Misono (2-3-9 Sennichimae, Chuo, 06 6641 7777), built in 1956 and featuring a renovated basement that used to host cabaret shows, inexpensive lodging upstairs, a large banquet hall that seats 500, and one whole floor packed with snacks and bars, not unlike Shinjuku’s Golden Gai. Don’t be shy to strike up a conversation with locals; it’s sure to lead somewhere interesting. 1am End the night with a snack Dotonbori’s takoyaki (octopus balls) will satisfy your midnight cravings. The stalls here are open until the wee hours, with the most

popular being Atchichi Honpo (7-19 Soemon-cho, Chuo, 06 7860 6888, open until 2am weekdays, until 5am Fri and Sat). Also stop by Osaka Osho (1-6-13 Dotonbori, Chuo, 06 6213 0400) where a serving of freshly fried gyoza dumplings goes for around ¥200, or dig into a steaming bowl of ramen noodles for around ¥600 at the 24-hour Kinryu Ramen (1-7-26 Dotonbori, Chuo, 06 6211 6202).

WHERE TO STAY Rock Star Hotel You get to sleep with a giant image of David Bowie (or other rock stars) watching over you. All rooms are equipped with high quality sound systems and the suite, featuring a motif of The Beatles, even has a DJ booth. The hotel also has a stylish lounge and rooftop bar. 1-4-11 Awaza, Nishi. 06 6538 6909. rockstar-hotel.jp. From ¥8,000 per night. Hostel 64 Osaka This modern, stylish backpackers opened in 2010. Dormitory prices start at ¥3,500 per night, and while this is a shared room, they provide dividers for each guest’s space. Japanese-style rooms with tatami flooring start at ¥8,100 per night for two guests, while the Western-style room starts at ¥8,200 per night for two. Rent a bicycle from them for easy sightseeing. 3-11-20 Shinmachi, Nishi. 06 6556 6586. www.hostel64.com

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Travel & Hotels

to the choice of beef (available in five grades). 1-9-17 Dotonbori, Chuo. 06 6211 7777.

Travel & Hotels Oshi-zushi at Yoshino Sushi

DAY 2

Travel & Hotels

10am Browse modern art

Begin your day at the National Museum of Art, Osaka. It showcases modern art from both Japan and around the world. From April 7 to July 5, the museum is exhibiting the works of Jiro Takamatsu, a contemporary artist known for his paintings of shadows. 4-2-55 Nakanoshima, Kita. 06 6447 4680. www.nmao.go.jp/en

12pm Try Osakan sushi Oshi-zushi (pressed sushi) originated in Osaka and while there are of course plenty of restaurants serving up this traditional dish, Yoshino Sushi comes highly recommended. Founded in 1841, its refined atmosphere and sushi combine for a perfect meal. At its main location in Awajicho, you can enjoy a box lunch that includes colourful, rectangular hako-zushi (boxed sushi), pressed vinegartreated mackerel sushi, conger eel sushi and more. If you’re there for dinner, courses are from ¥6,000. 3-4-14 Awajicho, Chuo. 06 6231 7181. www.yoshino-sushi.co.jp 2pm Stroll around Nakanoshima This may be Osaka’s business district, but in recent years numerous stylish select shops and coffee stands have opened here too. Moto

Coffee (2-1-1 Kitahama, Chuo, 06 4706 3788) boasts outdoor riverside seating and coffee that’s roasted with the greatest care (choose between deep roasted, medium roasted and light roasted). A couple of floors above the coffee shop you’ll find Keybridge, a top quality clothing store with a focus on local brands. A ten-minute walk from here and you’ll arrive at the Shibakawa Building (3-3-3 Fushimicho, Chuo), originally opened in 1927 but renovated in 2012 to house shops and restaurants – although it retains its original façade and the combination of old and new is captivating.

Moto Coffee (also below)

5pm Shop and eat like

a local Not far from Nakanoshima lies Tenjinbashisuji Shotengai (1 to 7 Tenjinbashi, Kita), a street lined with around 600 shops selling all kinds of goods. At 2.6km, this is Japan’s longest covered shopping street and is a good place to pick up a bargain. Even in Osaka, a city rich in shopping streets, this one is the most vibrant and it still holds traces of the Taisei and Showa periods. For a taste of authentic okonomiyaki (Japanese pancake), stop by Sogetsu (3-9-9 Tenjinbashi, Kita, 06 6358 4509). Also try their negiyaki, a thinner version of okonomiyaki made with fried spring onion. You can cook it up yourself, but to ensure you

Keybridge clothing store

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Okonomiyaki at Kofuku Spa World

8pm Have dinner in yakiniku

heaven Right, it’s dinnertime. At Tsuruhashi, Osaka’s Korean town, there are myriad yakiniku restaurants to be found near the station. We recommend Sora (1-10 Shimoajiharacho, Tennoji, 06 6773 1300), where you’ll be served up every single part of the cow. If you’re not sure where to start, try ordering the dish with five types of offal (¥2,000) – go on, brave the intestines. Otherwise, go for one of their delicious soups. Note: your clothes will not smell great after dining here, so best not wear your fur.

Jigokudani Meido Bar

Stretch your legs with a walk around the mysterious Nodahanshin area. Here you will find a narrow alley nicknamed ‘Hell Valley’ and dotted with eating and drinking establishments. Chat to bartenders and customers at Kushikatsu Goemon (2-13-7 Yoshino, Fukushima), which offers kushiage (fried vegetable and meat skewers) for only ¥80 a piece. They may possibly be even better than the ones at Jan-Jan Yokocho. The owner, who is super friendly and speaks English well, used to be a chef at an upmarket restaurant so it’s no surprise they serve Western-style hors d’oeuvres. Another interesting spot is the unbelievably narrow okonomiyaki restaurant Kofuku (2-13-7 Yoshino, Fukushima). Order their famed

Okonomiyaki at Sogetsu

1am Wash away the tiredness With 16 types of public baths, eight types of ganbanyoku (stone saunas) and an inside pool, Spa World is one of Japan’s top urban spas. Amazingly, this huge facility is open almost 24 hours a day – and this includes the restaurant and massage facilities. We can’t imagine you’ll find anything like this anywhere else in the world. 3-4-24 Ebisu-Higashi, Naniwa. 06 6631 0001. www.spaworld.co.jp/english. 10am-8.45am. Check website for entrance fees.

Travel & Hotels

10pm Get lost in Hell Valley

‘hormon yaki udon’ (offal with udon). After a few drinks, this rich dish, served with a mix of raw egg and salty sweet sauce, hits the spot nicely. If you’ve had enough to eat and you’re just looking for a good drinking hole, then head to Jigokudani Meido Bar (2-13-2 Yoshino, Fukushima, 06 6444 2459). It’s a tiny bar with just seven seats, but the talkative owner and cosy atmosphere make it a winner.

HOW TO GET THERE By train The fastest and most comfortable way to reach Osaka is on the Nozomi bullet train, boarded either at Tokyo Station or Shinagawa Station. It takes roughly 2.5 hours to reach Shin Osaka Station. Reserved seats ¥14,250, unreserved seats ¥13,620. www.jreast.co.jp/e/charge By bus Most coach companies operate a service between Tokyo and Osaka, leaving from bus terminals situated next to Tokyo Station and Shinjuku Station. The journey time differs depending on the route taken, but it usually works out at around nine hours. Many buses run overnight, but some depart during the day too. Ticket price varies, but the cheapest ones are from ¥2,000 upwards. ‘Ultra luxurious highway buses’ have also recently been introduced and Willer Express offer ‘executive’ seats with only two seats per row, equipped with a TV screen. willerexpress.com/en, www.buschannel.com/English By plane Low-cost airlines such as Peach and Jetstar fly between Narita Airport and Kansai Airport. The flight takes roughly 1.5 hours and ticket prices are around ¥5,000 during offpeak times – although remember you’ll need to add the cost (and time) of travelling to out-of-town airports.

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IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

get the best version of the dish, it might be better to leave the cooking to the staff. Finally, don’t miss checking out the crazy exterior of the world’s gaudiest supermarket, Supertamade.

Yakiniku at Sora

HOTEL HOT LIST Six of the best new openings for 2015, from quirky to traditional to a whole lot of island luxury IF YOU’RE STAYING IN TOKYO

FIRST-CLASS CAPSULES First Cabin Tsukiji What’s with the name? The folks behind the First Cabin chain are all about making the most of limited space, which is why they’ve chosen to decorate their hotels in a style reminiscent of first-class seats in an aeroplane. The idea is budget accommodation with a hint of designer sophistication. This Tsukiji location opened in January 2015 (they also have branches in Haneda Airport and Akihabara) and features 160 cabins – divided up by gender, as is customary with capsule-style hotels, with 119 for men and 41 for women. Oh, and it’s close to Tsukiji fish market. The nitty gritty Security system, a large communal bath and a café and bar that’s open from 5am to 10am, and again from 5pm to midnight. From ¥4,500 per night, short stay ¥900 for one hour. 2-11-10 Tsukiji, Chuo (Tsukiji Station). 03 5148 1130. www.first-cabin.jp

IF YOU’RE STAYING IN TOKYO

THE GLAMPER Caravan Tokyo What if I don’t want to rough it? Parked inside Aoyama’s Commune 246 space since December 2014, Caravan Tokyo lets you camp out in one of Tokyo’s most fashionable neighbourhoods, but there’ll be no rubbing sticks together here. The stylish grey caravan was built from the ground up by local craftsmen, and each and every detail has been carefully thought out. This unique accommodation option is equipped with every convenience, including a double bed, bathroom and shower, iPhone-compatible audio system, air-conditioning, wi-fi and access to a shared office area in case you need to catch up on work emails. Space is limited, sure, but the location, right in the middle of Omotesando, suggests that you probably won’t be spending much time inside anyway. The nitty gritty The caravan can be booked through Airbnb, with rates starting from ¥17,000 per night. Commune 246, 3-13 Minami-Aoyama, Minato (Omotesando Station). caravantokyo.com

IF YOU’RE STAYING IN TOKYO

QUIRKY HOSTEL Khaosan Tokyo Origami What’s the main attraction? The Khaosan hostel chain is well-known among budget travellers for its excellent service and extensive network, but it’s the variety that really impresses: each branch is designed and decorated in a unique, creative way. Opened in October 2014, Origami is their latest Asakusa venture and is dubbed a ‘decorative hostel’, complete with an on-site gallery and a cosy common area. Catering to single travellers and large groups, Origami emphasises interaction among staff and guests, hosting regular workshops and events. And the location is great – just a few minutes’ walk through Asakusa and you’ll arrive at Sensoji temple. The nitty gritty There’s a communal kitchen, laundry and dryer space. Rooms range from singles and doubles to eight-bed dorms, available from ¥3,000. 3-4-12 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 3871 6678. www.khaosan-tokyo.com

74 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

COMPILED BY: MAYUMI KOYAMA AND ANNEMARIE LUCK

Travel & Hotels

THE RENOVATED RYOKAN Kai Kaga What’s new? The recent extension of the Hokuriku Shinkansen line is bringing an influx of visitors to what was once one of Japan’s least-explored IF YOU’RE regions. That might explain why this TRAVELLING venerable ryokan, located in the popular hot BEYOND TOKYO spring area of Yamashiro in Ishikawa Prefecture, is currently undergoing a major renovation. Hoshino Resorts Kai Kaga was originally established in 1624, not far from the Sea of Japan coast, and is a registered tangible cultural property. Due for completion this summer, the renovation will retain the ryokan’s traditional atmosphere while adding new open-air baths to 18 of the 48 rooms, and enhancing the decor with traditional Kaga crafts. Better yet, Kai Kaga will also be far more accessible now, with a journey of approximately 2.5 hours from Tokyo. The nitty gritty See website for room rates. 18-47 Yamashiro-onsen, Kaga, Ishikawa. 050 3786 0099 (reservation centre). kai-kaga.jp

IF YOU’RE TRAVELLING BEYOND HIGH-ROLLING IN KYOTO TOKYO

ISLAND LUXURY Hyatt Regency Naha, Okinawa What can I look forward to? High-end accommodation options have traditionally been in short supply in Okinawa, Japan’s southernmost prefecture. But that’s all starting to change: following the opening of the deluxe Hilton Okinawa Chatan Resort last year, the Hyatt hotel group is due to unveil its first property there in summer IF YOU’RE 2015. Located in Naha, the prefectural capital, the TRAVELLING hotel aims to attract business and leisure BEYOND TOKYO travellers alike, with 294 guest rooms, an outdoor swimming pool, fitness club and top-notch customer service. If you’re looking to splurge, it’s also within walking distance of popular shopping streets Kokusai-dori and Yachimun-dori. The nitty gritty Naha International Airport is only 6.5km away. Room rates still to be announced, please check the website. 3-6-20 Makishi, Naha, Okinawa. naha.regency.hyatt.com

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Travel & Hotels

Suiran What’s so special about it? It’s not often that you get to spend the night at a UNESCO World Heritage site. This opulent Japanese-style hotel is next to Tenryuji, a handsome 14th century temple located in the touristy Arashiyama district in western Kyoto. Opened on March 23 by Starwood Hotels and Mori Trust Co, Suiran might just be the classiest place to stay in the entire city. With just 39 rooms, and surrounded by the greenery of a traditional Japanese garden, the hotel should appeal to anyone looking for a luxury hideaway with a traditional feel. The nitty gritty From ¥65,000 per night.12 Saga-Tenryuji Susukinobaba-cho, Ukyo, Kyoto. www.suirankyoto.com

Getting Around Go local

MINATO LINE The modern graphics you’ll see at stations along this line in Ibaraki are unusual for a local train. They’re the result of a tie-up between railway operator Hitachinaka Seaside Railway and art project MMM (Minato Media Museum), which aims to improve the atmosphere of this under-populated area with modern art. The train runs through 14.3km of fields and tunnels, ending at Ajigaura Station, which is just a short walk from Ajigaura beach. It’s also close to Hitachi Seaside Park (en.hitachikaihin.jp), where you can catch the blooming of 4.5 million baby-blue Nemophila flowers in early May every year. Where to catch it Between Katsuta and Ajigaura stations in Ibaraki Prefecture. www.hitachinaka-rail.co.jp CHOSHI ELECTRIC RAILWAY From Choshi Station in Chiba, this train takes you to the eastern tip of the Kanto region, where you can enjoy a perfect view of the sunrise at Inubosaki Lighthouse. The railway nearly closed down after a decline in passengers, but since collaborating with a local soy-sauce factory to promote nure-senbei (soft rice crackers), profits are back up and the train is still going. Take a

Kominato Railway: even the train looks friendly

trip to Choshi fishing port for some fresh iwashi (sardines), one of the area’s best-known delicacies, and don’t miss the majestic bluffs of Byobugaura, Japan’s answer to the white cliffs of Dover. Where to catch it Between Choshi and Tokawa stations in Chiba Prefecture. www.choshi-dentetsu.jp AKITA NAIRIKU JUKAN RAILWAY Stretching almost 100km through the mountainous regions of Akita, Nairiku Jukan Railway is known for its special seasonal events. The ‘hotaru train’ in early summer takes you past swarms of fireflies (hotaru), while winter’s ‘Santa train’ comes filled with Christmas trees and decorations. Get off at Kakunodate and view the old samurai residences, or giggle at odd station names that only the locals can decipher (the kanji for Okashinai, for example, reads as ‘inner laugh’).

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Where to catch it Between Takanosu and Kakunodate stations in Akita Prefecture. www.akitanairiku.com KOMINATO RAILWAY Well known for its distinct red and egg-yolk-yellow carriages, Kominato Railway makes a good day trip from Tokyo. Stop off at Yoro Keikoku Okukiyosumi Prefectural Natural Park, where you can hike and take an onsen, or at Kazusa-Okubo Station to greet your friendly neighbour Totoro (painted on the walls of the station). From late March to early May, be prepared for mobs of photographers standing along the tracks to capture the fields of striking yellow nanohana (rapeseed) blossoms. Where to catch it Between Goi and Kazusa-Nakano stations in Chiba Prefecture. www.kominato.co.jp

GONO LINE Travel along the coastline of the Sea of Japan and enjoy storytelling in Aomori’s Tsugaru dialect between Mutsu-Tsuruda and Kawabe stations, or listen to shamisen (three-stringed lute) performances between Ajigasawa and Goshogawara stations (on designated trains). The railway provides easy access to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Shirakami-Sanchi, a virgin beech forest where you can see the famous Aoike pond and its enchanting shades of green and blue. Where to catch it Between HigashiNoshiro Station in Akita Prefecture and Kawabe Station in Aomori Prefecture. www.jreast.co.jp/akita/gonosen For more essential travel info go to timeout.com/tokyo

COMPILED BY: JOYCE LAM, TRAIN: YOCCHANHISSATSUSHIGOTONIN/PIXTA

Getting Around

Bullet trains may give you speed, but these oldfashioned local trains will let you see so much more when travelling around Japan

Going underground? Welcometo tothe theworldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;smost mostefficient efficienttransport transport system Welcome

Getting Around Around Foryour yourfull, full,up-to-the-minute up-to-the-minuteguide guideto toTokyo Tokyovisit visit www.timeout.com/tokyo www.timeout.com/tokyo 77 77 For

Getting Around

Hanami for all Pick your perfect cherry blossom viewing spot

1. Meguro River Stroll through the crowds lining the waterway that runs from Nakameguro all the way to Osaki in Shinagawa and you’re bound to run into people you know. Besides the 800 blooming trees, there are plenty of fashion and food stalls to keep you busy and well-fed into the early evening hours as you celebrate the festive spring atmosphere. Nakameguro, Meguro stations.

Getting Around

FOR PICNICKERS

3. Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden During the cherry blossom season (Mar 25-Apr 24), this lush garden opens every day for those who want to enjoy its approximately 65 kinds of sakura trees. Note that using toys, sports equipment and the like in the garden is prohibited, as is bringing along and drinking alcohol in the garden. Entrance fee: ¥200 per adult. 11 Naitomachi, Shinjuku (Sendagaya, Kokuritsu-Kyogijyo, Shinjuku Gyoenmae stations). tinyurl.com/TOTshinjuku-gyoen

FOR HISTORY BUFFS

5. Shiba Park Established in 1873, this is one of the first five parks in Japan and offers perfect views of Tokyo Tower. The park is built around Zojoji Temple (the one featured in ‘Wolverine’) and holds an ancient tomb built in the fifth century. There are around 200 cherry blossom trees, and at night when Tokyo Tower is lit up, the scenery takes on a magical feel. Shiba Koen, Minato (Shiba-Koen, Onarimon, Akabanebashi stations). tinyurl.com/TOTshiba-park

FOR WATER BABIES

7. Sumida Park Hop on the Sumida River Line ‘water bus’ boat from Asakusa and you’ll pass through this onekilometre stretch of 640 sakura trees. A one-way trip costs ¥780, takes approximately 40 minutes, and stops off at Hamarikyu Gardens (see above for more info) and Hinode Pier. You’ll also be able to spot the Skytree while onboard. Mukojima, Sumida (Asakusa Station). tinyurl. com/TOTsumida-park. Tokyo Cruise water bus: www.suijobus.co.jp

FOR NIGHT-TIME VIEWERS

9. Rikugien Garden Rikugien’s annual spring celebration sees the beautiful Japanese garden and its huge cherry trees lit up in the evenings, creating a magical atmosphere for sakura viewing. The park stays open until 9pm for the duration of the event. Until Apr 5. 6-16-3 Honkomagome, Bunkyo (Komagome Station). tinyurl.com/TOTrikugien-sakura

2. Ueno Park Known as the mecca of cherry blossom viewing in Tokyo, this large park is so popular that some diehards even camp overnight to ensure they get the best spot. The park and its surrounding pathways and food stall areas get packed with jovial sakura enthusiasts during the Ueno Sakura Festival (until Apr 12). (Also good for ‘history buffs’, below.) Ueno Station. tinyurl.com/TOTueno-park

4. Yoyogi Park Head for the central square to get the best view of the white and pink flowers set against a vast blue sky. Bring your blue plastic mat and join the hordes of happy picnickers, badminton players and dog walkers. Oh, and enjoy the interminable queues for the toilets. (Also good for ‘socialites’, above.) 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya (Harajuku, YoyogiKoen, Yoyogi-Hachiman stations). tinyurl.com/ TOTyoyogipark

6. Hamarikyu Detached Garden This tranquil garden, once a hunting ground for the Tokugawa shogunate, is surrounded by an ancient walled moat. The focal point is the pond, which contains two islands (one with a teahouse) connected to the shore by wooden bridges. (Also good for ‘water babies’ as you can catch a boat from Asakusa to access the park, see below.) 1-1 Hama-Rikyu Teien, Chuo (Shiodome Station). tinyurl.com/TOThamarikyu-garden

8. Chidorigafuchi Park Young couples take to the water in rented rowboats at this stretch of moat to the north of the Imperial Palace. It’s renowned for being one of the most photogenic hanami spots, with around 260 somei-yoshino and yama-zakura trees. Even after peak season, it’s still a treat to cruise through a sea of fallen petals. Boat rental 11am-5.30pm, ¥800 for 30 minutes. 2 Kudan-Minami, Chiyoda (Kudanshita, Hanzomon stations). tinyurl.com/ TOTchidori

10. Ark Hills The ‘cherry blossom street’ at Ark Hills is a minor Roppongi institution, stretching for 700m and featuring around 150 sakura trees, all of which are illuminated after dark during the Ark Hills Sakura Festival. Until Apr 5. 1-12-32 Akasaka, Minato (Roppongi-Itchome Station). tinyurl.com/ TOTarkhills

78 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

COMPILED BY: MAYUMI KOYAMA AND ANNEMARIE LUCK, HAMARIKYU GARDEN, RIKUGIEN GARDEN: TOKYO METROPOLITAN PARK ASSOCIATION, SHINJUKU-GYOEN: SHINJYUKU GYOEN NATIONAL GARDEN

FOR SOCIALITES

Getting Around

8 3

10 6

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When in Japan… Sing karaoke and win a free crepe

hen in Japan, do as the Japanese do. In this case, we’re talking about karaoke and one very new spot where you can put your singing skills to the test – for free. At the recently opened Moshi Moshi Box tourist information centre, you’ll find the Harajuku Kawaii Room ready and waiting. You simply need to sign up at the Box and then sing your heart out. When we visited, we took part in the singing challenge, which is a special offer available on Wednesdays and Sundays in which you can win a free crepe if you notch up more than 90 points on the karaoke machine (sadly, we didn’t make the cut). And don’t worry, the room is soundproof so even though passersby might stop and stare, they won’t be able to actually hear your rendition of Arctic Monkeys’ ‘Brianstorm’. Moshi Moshi Box opened on December 25 in the heart of Harajuku. It’s run by Asobisystem and provides sightseeing information for the entire Shibuya area, as well as essential information and services such as courier services, a foreign currency exchange machine and free Wi-Fi. For more information, visit tinyurl.com/TOTmoshibox. 3-23-5 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku and Meijijingumae stations). 03 6447 2225. moshimoshi-nippon.jp. 10am-6pm daily.

Get all of our maps in Shibuya Pay a visit to the Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre

Pick up our maps and magazine at one of these venues:

You can now get your copy of Time Out Tokyo magazine delivered – we ship internationally too! Please visit time-outtokyo.myshopify. com.

Stations: Select Tokyo Metro and Toei Subway stations Tourist information centres: Tokyo Metropolitan Goverment Headquarters Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre Tokyo City Air Terminal and more tourist information centres Airports: Haneda Airport Narita International Airport Shops: Daikanyama Tsutaya Books Books Kinokuniya Tokyo Tower Records Shibuya and more shops

egular Time Out readers will know about our popular series of free maps: pocketsized guides to the multifarious delights this city has to offer. They’re hard to miss these days – as well as our ever-popular ‘101 Things to Do in Shibuya’ edition and the comprehensive ’88 Things to Do in Tokyo’, we’ve come out with maps for Roppongi, Shinjuku and Nihonbashi,

in addition to the recent ‘50 Things to do in Tokyo for Business Travellers’, produced in collaboration with Japanese airline ANA. Each edition squeezes the best of the capital into a compact pamphlet, complete with a city map, and we’ve included everything from offbeat art galleries and otaku meccas to ancient shrines and hipster hangouts.

80 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

All of these publications, along with back issues of our magazine, are available to pick up at Shibuya Station’s tourist information centre, conveniently located in the underground passage on the second basement floor of Shibuya Station. The English-speaking guides will help you stock up, provide sightseeing tips, and assist you in navigating the bowels of the cavernous station itself.

Hotels that have Les Clefs d’Or Japan member concierge: ANA Intercontinental Tokyo The Peninsula Tokyo Palace Hotel Tokyo Park Hyatt Tokyo Grand Pacific Le Daiba Mandarin Oriental,Tokyo Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel Grand Hyatt Tokyo Conrad Tokyo Hotel Okura Tokyo The Ritz Carlton Tokyo Tokyo Prince Hotel Park Tower and more hotels Note: If you can’t find the map you’re looking for, this probably means we’ve temporarily run out of stock. Please be patient while we work on the next print run. Please direct any advertising queries to sales@timeout.jp.

KARAOKE: KISA TOYOSHIMA, SHIBUYA INFORMATION CENTER: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Restaurants: Time Out Cafe & Diner Hard Rock Cafe and more restaurants

A chef’s skill It’s got nothing to do with the sushi knife

Sushi secrets

Takeo Funabiki explores the mysteries of Japan’s best-known ‘fast food’

SUSHI: JPHOTO/PIXTA, TSUKIJI FISH MARKET: YASUHISA SHIMBO

hen my foreign friends ask me to name the best sushi shop in Tokyo, my usual answer is that they can go to pretty much any expensive place and the fish will be top class. I say ‘expensive’ because the bill at a restaurant like this usually comes to more than ¥15,000. Good sushi can be had for less than that, but the expensive places source directly from Tsukiji fish market and get really high-quality fish. The flip side, of course, is that the fish at all these shops comes from the same market, and as the taste matches the price, there’s little variation between the best restaurants. Therefore, when people say that this shop has great sushi but that shop’s stuff is lousy, they’re mostly just promoting their personal favourites. Tsukiji, the secret of Tokyo sushi So, could you say that the sushi chefs at all these shops are equally skilled and do the exact same thing? The answer is no – plenty of difference exists. Some of these ‘masters’ exert themselves to provide you with ample appetisers or amuse-bouche before they get to the nigiri. Make no mistake: it’s theoretically impossible to use a sushi knife to make fish more delicious than it already is. Hence, a chef’s skill comes down to whether or not they make the original ingredient taste worse than it originally did; in

never developed a corresponding culture surrounding the timeconsuming catching and tasting of small fish and shellfish. The reason why much New York sushi is subpar is that the people eating it aren’t acquainted with the natural taste of the kinds of fish and shellfish that usually feature in sushi. After President Obama dined with Prime Minister Abe at Sukiyabashi Jiro, he reportedly said it was ‘the best sushi I’ve ever had’, but ‘I ate real sushi for the first time today, and it was delicious’ would perhaps have been more accurate.

Tsukiji fish market

other words, it’s about minimising the negatives. What, then, is the secret behind Tokyo’s delicious sushi? It’s Tsukiji, Japan’s top fish market, and its highly sophisticated distribution system. As long as that system exists, Tokyo will remain the best place for sushi in Japan – and in the entire world. Some of my Japanese friends tell me that the sushi bars in New York serve delicious sushi, but I have a very hard time believing them. I grant them that some of New York’s finest places serve sushi that tastes like the stuff you get in Tokyo. However, at a typical NYC restaurant, you can pay around $50 for a plate of nigiri and what you get tastes

terrible – it’s not even worthy of the name. Still, I’m not singling out New York sushi shops to badmouth them. The exact same idea applies to, say, Chinese food in Japan, which is gutless when compared to the duck you get in Beijing or the turtle served in the Yangtze River basin. I think cuisine at a distance is like watching the Cirque du Soleil on DVD.

Cuisine at a distance is like watching Cirque du Soleil on DVD

Culinary traditions run deep Sushi developed as the people of Edo learned to take advantage of the many species of small fish and shellfish caught near the shallow shores of what is now Tokyo Bay. In North America, nutritional needs were met with large whitefish, so it

Local is best I argue that food tastes best when eaten close to where the ingredients were produced – local production for local consumption. Sushi, which can be referred to as ‘B-grade gourmet’ [meaning cheap, not lower grade], lives and dies by its ingredients. My hope is that both Japanese and New York fishermen will continue to explore the marine life that inhabits the niche ecosystems along their respective coasts, and try to refine their palates in order to create their own form of sushi, instead of attempting to recreate the ‘Edo style’. For our top ten (affordable) sushi restaurants in Tokyo, go to tinyurl.com/TOTsushi

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o casinos? No problem! Word is still out on whether the government will be legalising casinos in Japan, but don’t let this fool you. Japanese people love to wager, and if you know where to look, Tokyo offers plenty of ways to get your gambling on. In this sprawling metropolis you can find everything from government-sponsored motor-, horseand human-powered races to the fast and furious roar of pachinko machines and robotic mahjong tables.

There’s a pachinko on every corner By Benjamin Boas

A whale of a deal

Gambling games

Betting on bicycles

Keirin Bicycle races have been around for a long time, but did you know that the first cycle races designed for wagering began in Japan? Keirin was developed in the post-war period by the Japanese government and although it’s now an official Olympic sport, the gamblers you’ll be mingling with are more likely to be chain smoking than doing push-ups in the velodrome aisles. Intensity rating HHH They ain’t riding your grandma’s mama-chari: these cyclists top out at 70 km/hr.

Plinko on steroids

Lottery Kuu-chan the orange whale is the official mascot of the Japanese lottery and his smiling visage greets you from every one of the hundreds of lottery stalls that pepper the streets of Tokyo. Don’t let his smile mislead you though – the Japanese lottery is one of the toughest to win in the world, with a payout rate of only about 50 percent. Kuu-chan’s laughing all the way to the bank. Intensity rating H Buy the ticket, take the ride. Nothing too special here.

Pachinko You see it everywhere, from the suburbs to the centre of town, where it clusters around the major stations: pachinko is king in the land of Japanese gambling and it’s bigger than you think. Those loud, flashy, smoky parlours that look (and smell!) like Pleasure Island on steroids number nearly 12,000 nationwide and the industry has annual sales of almost 20 trillion yen. The most amazing thing about the game may be that it’s actually beatable. Professional pachinko players can make a consistent income – but they take quite a pounding to their senses in the process. Intensity rating HHH Most people can expect more damage to their hearing than their wallet, but pachinko’s sensory overload has been known to seduce patrons into full-blown addiction.

Competitive convenience

Mahjong In the mood for a board game but can’t find a foursome to play with? Walk into a mahjong parlour in Tokyo and the staff will match you up with a set of opponents the minute you step through the door. Originally from China, mahjong has become Japan’s most popular table game. The rules can take a little while to learn but the time is worth investing. You can meet some pretty interesting characters in these places – and walk away with their money! Intensity rating HHHH The games are action-packed but also surprisingly safe. Wagers are kept low by the parlours, which make money off the amount of time you play, not the money you lose.

Coming to Japan in… already?

Casinos Japan has no casinos – at least, none that are openly spoken about. Foreign investors have been speculating about the introduction of Vegas-style casinos for over a decade, but if you’re willing to venture off the beaten bath you may just chance upon one of the dozens of underground casinos rumoured to exist in Tokyo. Intensity rating HHHHH Be careful, you may find more than you bargained for.

In the next issue of Time Out Tokyo… What’s up, summer?

Embrace the heat, escape the heat, and other things to do when the sun is out to play. 82 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Available across Tokyo from June 2015

ILLUSTRATIONS: KENTO IIDA

You know you’re in Tokyo when…