Issue 2: Eat Like a Tokyoite

INSIDE! Japanese Food 101 The best beers, bars and hangover cures Hanami hunt Behold the cherry blossoms!

APR - JUN 2014 NO.2 TIMEOUT.COM/TOKYO

WIN!

An elegant dinner for two, p40

A E K I L T EA

TOKYOITE

Kyary Pamyu Pamyu kicks off our food odyssey FREE

In this issue

www.timeout.com/tokyo

April – June2013 2014– November January 2014

Hello Tokyo…

Hello Tokyo…

Welcome to the first ever Time Out Tokyo magazine.

You’ll have noticed we’re kicking things off with a modest little claim: that this city outshines any After very successful first issue, weit’s asked you otherour metropolis on the planet – and not only what you would to seefireworks more of in the magazine. because of the like nonstop (although we do Your answer? A resounding So we’ve like fireworks).

Turn to p24‘we andwant we’llfood!’ give you 49 gone all out and dedicated our second issue other incontestable reasons. And in the resttoofthe the culinary wonders of Tokyo.

Which, you’llfrom agree, take magazine you’ll find hundreds more: proof on even more wondrous appeal in the midst of Kyary that the world will see the greatest Games ever in Pamyu Pamyu’s pretty-in-pink cover shot. Turn to p24 2020 (p10) to our tips on such quintessential for 10 pages of ‘howas toGolden-gai eat like a Tokyoite’.

Andfrom then Tokyo experiences (p68) – and pack a picnic and go on a hanami hunt (p72) for a the capital’s music, style and art to the savviest double ofever Tokyo’s top(p82). traits.Tokyo is beyond city catsdose you’ll meet compare. Use this mag to make the most of it.

Food odyssey With Japan’s On top of the world… traditional making the With the bidcuisine in the bag, Intangible Cultural Heritage this is Tokyo’s moment… list, how could you not want to Discover why you’re in the journey p24p24 best cityforth? on earth,

Inside

OLYMPICS: GETTY IMAGES KYARY PAMYU PAMYU: TAKESHI HANZAWA; STREET STYLE: KISA TOYOSHIMA; ROCK BARS: KEISUKE TANIGAWA; CHERRY BLOSSOMS: LUKASZ PALKA

06 06 Tokyo TokyoUpdate Update

City City news, news, city city views views 13 13 Tokyo TokyoDiary Diary

Essential Essential events events 17 21 Tokyo-Ga Courtesy calls

Exclusive Tokyo for sumo

wrestler portraits beginners 20 23 Fukushima Road to update recovery

Looking for the light One town’s post23 Courtesy calls tsunami comeback 24 How to keep Tokyo: bestacity

poker in theface world 24 Eat like a Need a reason?

Tokyoite We’ll give you 50!

What, where and how

40 40 Drinkopoly They shoot Tokyo

Take on the city with One amazing city,

the best bar game 100 photographers 42 44 Eating Eating& & Drinking Drinking 50 52 Shopping Shopping& & Style Style 56 60 LGBT LGBT 58 62 Art Art & & Culture Culture 62 66 Music Music 66 68 Nightlife Nightlife 70 71 Film Film 72 72 Travel Travel & & Hotels Hotels 76 76 Getting GettingAround Around 81 update 82 Olympics Cats 82 City charms

Cover Editors Cover Photography Jun Igarashi Art direction:by Steve Nakamura Taishi Hirokawa Hidetaka Furuya Photography: Takeshi Hanzawa Styling: Kumiko Iijima Tokyo Hair and make-up: Masayoshi Okudaira Time Out Tokyo Inc. 5-9-9-101 Hiroo, 5-9-9-101 Hiroo,Shibuya, Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0012 www.timeout.jp +81 (0)3 5792 5721 Advertising and general enquiries: www.timeout.jp info@timeout.jp Advertising and general enquiries: info@timeout.jp

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The best street style GetLose fashion nightlife tips straight yourself in lasers from stylish with aTokyo’s round-up of the residents, p50 best clubs in town, p70

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The Thebest bestin insider music 2014 a tips Discover From idol TokyoJapan’s you didn’t culture to TimeOur Out’s know existed. guide top band picks,p68 p62 to Golden-gai,

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The Thebest bestrock in bars Fancymusic a little Japanese Led Zeppelin From Perfume to karaoke?

Here’s where Aragehonji: find out who to go, p66our world, p66 is rocking

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The The best best hanami new Hunt down restaurants Tokyo’s most Which new food impressive places to trycherry in 2014? blossoms, p72 We’ll tell you! p48

J O I N T H E C O N V E R S AATT I O N O N FFAA C E B O O K , T W I T T E RR AANNDD TTHHEE TTOOKKYYOOIITTEE BBLLOOGG facebook.com/TimeOutTokyo

Editorial Assistants IliDesigner Saarinen Editors Eri Igarashi Ito Rebecca Morice Jun Yuki Masuko Masako Matsuzaki Staff Photographers jun@timeout.jp Editorial Assistants Misaki Kawaguchi Keisuke Annemarie Luck Eri Ito Tanigawa Ryo Harada Kenta Hoshino annemarieluck@timeout.jp Masako Matsuzaki Ryo Koshirakawa Kisa Toyoshima Production Assistants Ikuko Hirahara Takuroh Toyama IliYasuhisa SaarinenShimbo Ryo Harada Yuka Yamazaki Sales Assistants ilisaarinen@timeout.jp Yasuhisa Shimbo Yu Miyakoshi Daiki Reiko Kuwabara YukaMasuda Yamazaki Annemarie Luck Ikuko Hirahara reiko@timeout.jp Kunihiro Miki

Chief Content Producer Staff Photographers Atsushi Tonosaki Keisuke Tanigawa Content Director Kenta Hoshino Commercial & Kisa Toyoshima Marketing Takuroh Toyama Akiko ToyaAssistants Sales President/Publisher Daiki Masuda Hiroyuki Fushitani Momo Ando Chairman Yuka Tamura Hiroshi Hasegawa

@TimeOutTokyo

Business Development Producer Atsushi Tonosaki Content Director Commercial & Marketing Time Out Digital Akiko Toya Universal House, President/Publisher 251 Tottenham Road, London, HiroyukiCourt Fushitani W1T 7AB www.timeout.com, Chairman +44 (0)20 7813 3000 Hiroshi Hasegawa

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Editor International ContentContent International Managing International CEO Tim Arthur Becky Lucas DirectorDirector DirectorChairman-Founder Sub Editor Tayna Jackson MarcusMarcus Webb Webb David Woodley Tony Elliott Writer Flo Wales Bonner International Editor Editor Chief Technical Officer International Contributing Editor Chris Bourn David Cook Chris Bourn James International Art Director Group Marketing Director International Art Director TimeHadfield Out Digital Designers Patrick AnthonyAnthony HugginsHuggins Carolyn Sims Universal House, McNamee, Tom Court Havell Production CEO Tim Arthur International Managing 251 Tottenham Road, London, Picture Researcher Dave Chairman-Founder Director W1T 7AB www.timeout.com, Katie Mulhern--Bhudia, Isidora O’Neill Faulkner, Adam Lee Davies Tony Elliott David Woodley +44 (0)20 7813 3000

App a vailab for fre le throu e g iTune h the s stor e.

Foryour yourfull, full, up-to-the-minute up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 5 For

CITY FAQ

Why can’t we dance?

Police have been raiding clubs for the ‘crime’ of dancing and in lieu of a Footloose-esque angry warehouse dance, we created a survey to let you vent. Here’s a summary of the law and what you said about it (see right)

W

henever anyone finds out for the first time that dancing in Japan is regulated, the shock is tangible.

Because how, in the 21st century and in one of the clubbing capitals of the world, is it possible that we’re not allowed to dance after midnight?

The short answer is that under the Law on Control and Improvement of Amusement Business (known as fueiho in Japanese), any establishment that permits dancing must obtain a licence. But to get the licence there are of course a number of requirements, for example the main room must have at least 66m2 of unobstructed floor space and, depending on location, the club must close by either midnight or 1am. Since 2010, the police have been busting all-night parties and shutting down clubs that are permitting dancing without this licence – resulting in some very unhappy club owners, DJs and people who just wanna have fun.

Some people believe there’s an ulterior motive behind this police crackdown. For example, there’s a recurring argument about the authorities’ desire to get rid of perceived ‘grey areas’ in Japanese society. Others claim that the police aren’t interested in dancing at all: they’re simply using the fueiho law as cover for other investigations.

For full city listings, go to www.timeout.com/tokyo

TOKYO LOVES… Interesting lingerie Fashion label Wish Room Men’s recently brought out a range of frilly floral bras and knickers for men.

Apparently customers are saying it’s what they’ve ‘been waiting for’.

WHAT YOU SAID

Kit-Kat It might be because it’s seen as a good-luck charm (‘Kit-Kat’ sounds like ‘kitto katsu’, which means ‘you will surely win’), but so dedicated are locals to the wafer choc that the brand has opened a Kit-Kat Chocolatory with tastes for all.

Wasabi flavour, anyone?

6 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo, visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

‘Fresh’ breath Bored of your standard white ’n’ minty toothpaste? No problem, pick up a black ’n’ eggplanty one

by Binotomo. Actually made with Japanese eggplant, which apparently tightens gums.

To find out what our readers think about the fueiho law, we posted a World Nightclub Survey on our website. Nearly 50 percent of you told us you go clubbing one to two times per month, and here are your thoughts on the no dancing law and the Tokyo scene in general:

‘The no-dancing law seems to be unenforced in the clubs I frequent.

Presumably it is just there to be used arbitrarily by law enforcement when they need to crack down on other problems like drugs or crime gangs (which I have never witnessed).’

‘World-class music at Womb and a great international crowd at Feria.’

‘Clubs need to be deregulated. Let people, including tourists, have fun.’

‘For sound and atmosphere, you can’t beat Unit, Module and Bonobo.’

‘People love to go clubbing here but it is becoming increasingly difficult with clubs closing down.

The law of no dancing is archaic.’

‘I don’t live in Japan but I have enjoyed DJing at clubs like Womb, Milk and Bullets. These days I rarely hear much about the Japanese club scene, and as a huge fan of electronic music from Japan I feel that this [law] is possibly detrimental to young people’s creativity and release.’

FOOTLOOSE: PICTORIAL PRESS LTD/ALAMY

Tokyo update

TOKYO TALK Residents reveal their favourite food spots

Where in Tokyo is this?

Every month we’ll show you a picture of a Tokyo location that you may or may not recognise. We’ll reveal where this photograph was taken in our Photo of the Day series at www.timeout.com/tokyo. This week’s clue: Just beyond this pretty gravel drawing of birds and trees you’ll find real birds and trees, plus some interesting characters including an Elvis impersonator or two.

Tijmen Visser, artist, Shimokitazawa How long have you lived here?

Six years.

Favourite place to eat in Tokyo?

Mama Luli because it is splendid and healthy. www.mamaluli.com Let us in on your top secret café?

Biotop in Shirokanedai – great clothing store on the ground floor and upstairs you can eat brunch on the terrace of Irving Place, which has a very cool treehouse in the garden. www.biotop.jp/irvingplace/ Best picnic spot in the city?

Komaba Park at the former residence of the late Japanese general Marquis Toshinari Maeda.

Strangest food you’ve eaten here?

Natto!

Three apps to Superstitious city make life better Get in touch with the

WHERE IN TOKYO IS THIS?: ANNEMARIE LUCK; TAIRA NO MASAKADO GRAVE: SHIKINA/PIXTA

YOUR DAILY ZEN The app: Undo What’s it for? Anywhere, anytime Zazen (a kind of seated meditation popular in Zen Buddhism).

How does it work? Tap the screen and a voice will guide you to that thoughtless place. You can choose the length of meditation and the app is linked to Twitter so you can set it to automatically tell your followers you have begun meditating (because, you know, they might wonder why you haven’t tweeted in the last 10 minutes).

Get it: Free at the App Store and Google Play.

TOILET SPOTTING The app: @Toilet What’s it for? Finding a loo in the city.

How does it work? Provides info on bathrooms near main train stations and a map of stores that are likely to let you use their bathroom.

Get it: Free at the App Store and Google Play.

SEXY WHISKERS The app: Cat Selfshot Camera What’s it for? Cat selfies.

How does it work? Connect paw to screen and, voilà, the camera will automatically trigger. The app comes with a variety of settings including a social media sharing function.

Get it: ¥100 at the App Store.

capital’s ‘scary’ side

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Curse of the samurai 10th-century samurai Taira no Masakado was beheaded for rebelling against the emperor and his noggin was buried in what is now the Otemachi business district. All attempts to build on this prime piece of real estate have resulted in mysterious deaths and accidents, leading locals to form an association to ensure the ‘cursed’ site remains untouched.

1-2 Otemachi, Chiyoda.

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Oiwa’s grave Myogyoji Temple in Sugamo is the final resting place of Oiwa, protagonist of the legendary ghost story ‘Yotsuya Kaidan’. Oiwa committed suicide after being betrayed by her best friend and husband and her spirit is said to return from the afterlife to haunt anyone associated with her fate.

4-8-28, Nishi-Sugamo, Toshima.

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The PM’s haunted (?) residence Shinzo Abe has so far refused to move into the Kantei, the prime minister’s official residence in Nagatacho. Everything from the family dog to the desire for privacy has been cited as a reason, but rumours about the vengeful onryo spirits that populate the grounds continue to circulate.

2-3-1 Nagatacho, Chiyoda.

Laerke Melgaard Hansen, fashion designer, Hatagaya How long have you lived here?

Four years.

Favourite food to eat in Tokyo?

I don’t know if it’s my favourite, but konbini onigiri is definitely one of the things I eat most often – it’s perfect for when you don’t have time for some proper food but need something filling and savoury.

Let us in on your top secret café?

I like Be a Good Neighbor in Sendagaya – it’s close to were I work, the coffee is good and the staff are super sweet; I always leave there in a good mood. tinyurl.com/TOTgoodneighbor Best picnic spot in the city?

The tiny park in Shoto, Shibuya – when I lived close by, I often used to go there by myself with a bit of lunch and watch the turtles in the pond. If I’m with friends, any balcony, rooftop or green spot will do.

Strangest food you’ve eaten here?

Raw chicken – I have this inbuilt fear that it will either kill me or make me crazy sick.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo, visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 7

Local legends #2

Tokyo’s Green Lantern Miso in a minute As if miso soup wasn’t already simple enough to throw together at the last minute, we now have the One-shot Kiwami, a miso soup dispenser for your home.

Launched in January by miso paste manufacturer Marukome, the espresso-style appliance readies your soup in just one minute. All you have to do is insert one of the miso paste-filled canisters, made especially for the machine, and add water. Fill a bowl or cup with wakame (edible seaweed), green onion or other ingredients, place it under the dispenser tap and press go. Buy the One-shot Kiwami for ¥12,800 at electronic retail stores.

pram-pushing commuters complaining about the fact the station has no lift, which means many of them have to walk to the next station to use the lift there. When asked about his motive, he simply says, ‘It’s about helping others.’ And what does he love most about Tokyo? ‘The people. Everyone is so warm and kind.’ Ah, if only there were more people like you in the world. Schedule a trip to Honancho between 10am and noon to witness Babycar Orosunjya flex his green muscles.

In praise of the phallus

Even the most prudish of festivalgoers won’t be able to help chuckling at the giant pink and steel male organs being paraded through the streets during the Kanamara Festival. Held every year on the first Sunday of April at Kanayama shrine in Kawasaki, this unusual ceremony began in the Edo era as a way of praying for protection from sexual diseases and, even though the two seem completely unrelated, for business prosperity. The festival is also said to help in matters of pregnancy, marriage and harmony between couples, and recently gained attention for its HIV/AIDS fund-raising efforts.

8 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo, visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

BABYCAR OROSUNJA: KISA TOYOSHIMA

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ho says superheroes don’t exist?

Certainly not the residents of Honancho, who regularly witness the heroic efforts of Babycar Orosunjya (meaning ‘let me help carry your pram down the stairs’). Working at a nearby organic store by day, the green-masked helper, who prefers to keep his identity secret, swoops down to Honancho Station’s east exit and jumps in to help moms carry their prams up the stairs.

His good-deed alter ego was born after he heard

TOKYO TALK Residents reveal what they love most about their capital

Japan family wagon No helmets, unless it’s the 10th of the month

Does ‘Bicycle Manners’ Day’ really exist?

‘It’s true, on the 10th of every month the police emerge from their kobans and go about enforcing cycling laws to the very last letter,’ says Byron Kidd, who runs www.tokyobybike.com and has been cycling the streets of Tokyo since 1996. If you’re as confused as we are about what exactly those laws are (is sidewalk cycling legal? How come no-one wears a helmet? Will we get fined for copying deft Japanese mums and holding our umbrellas in one hand?), Kidd has the answers…

‘Japan’s cycling rules are more like guidelines than laws, but essentially cyclists are supposed to stay on the road unless riding on marked sidewalks; you’re only required to wear a helmet if you’re under-13; and, yes, you can be fined up to ¥50,000 for cycling with an umbrella!’

So what’s being done about it? ‘In 2012 police announced a plan to remove 10,000 bicycle crossings from Tokyo intersections by 2014 to encourage cyclists to use streets. But even when they were in place, the bicycle crossings were largely ignored, so it’s likely most cyclists won’t even notice they’re gone.’

Kidd’s conclusion? ‘Cycling in Japan is more about getting the groceries than getting fit, and the truth is most cycling laws in Japan go unenforced until there is an accident. Love it or hate it, cycling rules in Japan have been moulded by society and evolved into what is accepted by society, not that which is dictated to them by disconnected, chauffeur-driven, bureaucrats.

I love that.’

Japan’s favourite bobtail cat has reached the big 4-0, and the country is celebrating with apt events like a hugathon (where you get to put your arms around a life-sized version), and by launching Hello Kitty-themed products like Mitsubishi’s Mirage Hello Kitty-edition pink vehicle, Bandai’s Chogokin Transformer Hello Kitty Robot, and the extravagant pearl and diamond Mikimoto x Hello Kitty jewellery collection (pictured right). So we’re joining in and thought we’d pay homage with a list of six things you didn’t know about the cute cat:

1 2 3

Her real name is Kitty White.

She is five apples in height and three apples in weight.

Has a twin sister called Mimmy (Mom Kitty uses different coloured hair ribbons to tell them apart).

WHITE GOLD AND AKOYA PEARL EARRINGS, ¥70,000, SILVER AND AKOYA PEARL BANGLE, ¥55,000, BOTH PART OF THE MIKIMOTO X HELLO KITTY COLLECTION.

BICYCLE: BYRON KIDD; HELLO KITTY JEWELLERY: © 2014 MIKIMOTO, ©1976, 2014 SANRIO CO LTD. TOKYO, JAPAN

Hello Kitty turns 40

4 5

She has been the US children’s ambassador for UNICEF since 1983.

Dear Daniel is her first love but since he’s so often away from home (globetrotter that he is), there are rumours she is having an affair with Tippy the bear.

6

She promotes almost every product you can think of, except alcohol and cigarettes (Beaujolais nouveau and Zippo lighters are the exception).

Haruhisa Tanaka, sound artist, gallery and bar manager, Nakano How long have you lived in Tokyo?

I came here from Shizuoka 10 years ago, when I was 18. I frequented Koenji’s live houses at that time.

What do you like most about Tokyo?

It’s a great environment for artists and shop owners because it’s easy to connect with each other. Also, I love to admire the urban landscape at night. The area around my house in Nakano-Sakaue has mostly low buildings, so I have a good view of the skyscrapers beyond.

Advice for tourists?

My friends from overseas really like it when I take them to Shinjuku’s Golden Gai. Soba places are nice too. I also want people to learn about Japanese culture, and there are many foreigners who appreciate Japanese music like art, drone and noise music, but hardly anyone here knows about that stuff. It would be great for Japanese people to see how positively foreigners react to things like that.

Noraneko, student, Ebisu How long have you lived in Tokyo?

Four years.

Favourite café in the city?

Manga cafés on the top of tall buildings.

Favourite place to hang out?

Ebisu on Sunday nights.

What do you like most about Tokyo?

Even if you get lost, you’re never really lost.

There is always a train station close by.

Where would you take a friend from abroad?

I’d get them to wear a school uniform, take Purikura (photo booth) pictures, and visit the Skytree!

How would you describe Tokyo?

A place where I can hang out with the people I love!

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo, visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 9

How Tokyo compares...

PARIS Hottest band of 2013: Fauve (who also style themselves with the symbol ≠) are a shady, amorphous collective of musicians and video artists who sprang their corrosive slam-inspired wordplay on an unsuspecting French public last year. Check their brilliant EP ‘Blizzard’.

Biggest culinary trend right now: Street food – prepared and/or sold on the city’s pavements (to the extent permitted by the law), and designed to be easily eaten on the fly, this notso-haute cuisine runs the gamut from empañadas to dim sum. Parisians are going wild for it.

We asked Time Out editors from around the globe to weigh in on their city trends so we could see how ours match up

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Most talked-about local cultural piece last year: The film ‘Blue is the Warmest Colour’, the searingly erotic, Palme d’Or-winning lesbian drama that launched the careers of its two leads and bogged that of its director down in needless controversy.

Best bar or club: Nüba, a club perched on the roof of the über-hip new riverside fashion development Docks en Seine. The wooden DJ booth and chillout world music make for about as exotic a clubbing experience as you’ll find in the capital.

Alex Dudok de Wit, assistant editor, Time Out Paris

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Hottest band of 2013: Factory Floor – industrial techno with a disco twist.

Biggest culinary trend right now: Baking things. Pastry has puffed up from nowhere and taken over the culinary agenda in a big way this year. Blame for this can be levelled at a TV show called ‘The Great British Bake-Off’, in which contestants bake cakes in a tent in a garden somewhere in Surrey, to please a man with a beard and a very old lady.

Most talked-about local cultural piece last year: David Bowie’s glorious comeback to mark his 50th anniversary in the music business. A decent brand new album, a blockbuster Bowie exhibition at the V&A museum, and even a cameo on the World’s Best Album of the Year, Arcade Fire’s ‘Reflektor’. Good on you Dave.

Best bar or club: Birthdays – a hipster-heavy basement bar in Dalston where people go to dance with serious faces.

Chris Bourn, international editor, Time Out London 10 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

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Hottest band of 2013: P.K.14, the massively influential post-punk band who recently released 1984, their first album since City Weather Sailing in 2008 – the same year that Time magazine declared them one of Asia’s best bands.

Biggest culinary trend right now: No major culinary trends to note, unless ‘opening passable but unexciting Mexican joints’ counts. The quality of burgers in the capital has shot up dramatically in the past year, though, as the increasing number of microbreweries mean a more competitive pub-grub market.

Most talked-about local cultural piece last year: Florentijn Hofman’s giant, inflatable ‘Rubber Duck’. Five feet taller than the duck exhibited in Hong Kong (of course). Beijing’s edition nevertheless suffered a terrible mallard-y when its beak was incorrectly sewn on, leaving it looking like a chicken.

Best bar or club: The Beijing branch of Shanghai underground club Dada. A bit less grungy than its sister venue, but still lacking in pretension and packed out with quality international DJs at low, low ticket prices.

James Wilkinson, editor, Time Out Beijing

NOTE: ALL PRICES QUOTED ARE APPROXIMATE AND MAY FLUCTUATE ACCORDING TO LOCATION

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Biggest culinary trend right now: Crossbred eats, the prime examples being the cronut and the ramen burger – both come with resolve-testing lines.

a TV series about a young girl who moves to Iwate Prefecture to become a diver, but ends up making it big as an ‘idol’. Aside from a new dialect, it inspired food trends, including the curious mamebu dumpling soup.

Most talked-about local cultural piece last year: ‘The Rain Room’ by architects Random International at MoMA. The piece was essentially an indoor rain shower that turned on and off depending on the presence of viewers. Because there was a strict limit on capacity, lines to enter the room could stretch to eight hours (or more).

Best bar or club: Mogra – an underground, anime-inspired club, complete with game songs and manga vocaloid Hatsune Miku, takes top spot as the Akihabara-kei (fantasy world) DJ movement gathers.

Time Out Tokyo editors

Best bar or club: Output – this multiroom Billyburg boîte may not be a scene-defining venue like Berlin’s Panorama Bar or London’s Fabric, but it’s a great addition to Gotham’s nightlife tapestry.

Jonathan Shannon, acting editor, Time Out New York

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Sydney

¥500 ¥600 Hottest band of 2013: Blood Orange – yearning soul-pop with heavy ’80s overtones, courtesy of buzzy NYC-via-London It producer Devonté Hynes.

Tokyo Most talked-about local cultural piece last year: ‘Ama-chan’ –

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Biggest culinary trend right now: The American pancake, a trend led by Portland’s Original Pancake House in Kichijoji.

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Hottest band of 2013: With their soaring choruses and smart, Macbook-enhanced electro rock, Sakanaction could be seen as descendants of New Order, though compatriots Supercar would be a better point of reference. In March 2013 they released a self-titled sixth album and then played a sold-out nationwide tour.

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SYDNEY Hottest band of 2013: The Preatures, the band behind one of the catchiest alt-pop songs Australians have heard recently: ‘Is This How You Feel?’.

Biggest culinary trend right now: Locally foraged food.

Most talked-about local cultural piece last year: The 13 Rooms public art project – 13 artists and over 70 performers took over Pier 2/3 in Walsh Bay for a human-body exhibition described as ‘like a sculpture gallery where all the sculptures go home at 6pm’.

‘The Rain Room’ I VI RG

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Best bar or club: Lobo Plantation – a Caribbean summer house in a basement in the most concrete part of the city.

Time Out Sydney editors For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 11

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Tokyo Diary What’s on in town April – June 2014 Make the most of the city with our editor’s picks of the best things to do over the next three months

Earth and art Go eco in the afternoon and then stay awake all night in Roppongi (below) on April 19

Apr 19 & 20 Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizounocho, Shibuya. 03 5315 4405. tinyurl.com/TOTearthday. Free.

April FOOD & DRINK AKIHABARA OKTOBERFEST 2014 Why wait until October for your Bavarian beer festival when you can have it in April? Head to Akihabara’s Belle Salle for German brews, savoury snacks and typically Bavarian musical performances.

Mar 28-Apr 6 Belle Salle Akihabara, 3-12-8 Sotokanda, Chiyoda. 03 5733 6773. tinyurl.com/TOToktoberfest.

Free entry.

SHOPPING & STYLE PLARAIL EXPO 2014 Fans of Tomy’s plastic trains won’t want to miss this yearly bash, which features giant dioramas, fun games and the chance to shop for limitededition merchandise that’ll make your friends back home green with envy.

Apr 26-May 6 Makuhari Messe, 2-1

IMAGE FROM ROPPONGI ART NIGHT 2013

Nakase, Mihama, Chiba. 03 5435 0604. www.m-messe.co.jp/en/. Adults ¥900, children ¥700 adv; adults ¥1,000, children ¥800 on the day.

ART & CULTURE TOKYO ART & ANTIQUES Over 70 galleries and art shops in the Kyobashi-Nihonbashi area join forces for this three-day celebration.

Stroll the streets in search for new artistic discoveries and take part in the myriad events.

Apr 24-26 Around 70 art galleries and shops in the area. www. tokyoartantiques.com. Free.

AROUND TOWN EARTH DAY TOKYO 2014 Globe-straddling eco event Earth Day has found a particularly receptive audience in Japan, where the two-day gathering in Yoyogi Park consistently draws over 100,000 people each year. Join in for great vegetarian food, free music and good vibes.

ART & CULTURE ROPPONGI ART NIGHT 2014 Roppongi stays awake for this nightlong celebration of art that includes a diverse array of exhibitions, installations, performances and so on. Area museums and galleries keep their doors open until dawn.

Apr 19-20 Area around Roppongi Hills. www.roppongiartnight.com/2014/en/.

ART & CULTURE SHINOBAZU BOOK STREET WEEK 2014 The many curious bookstores along Shinobazu-dori put on a show that includes talks, exhibitions, film screenings, gigs and much more. Grab a free map at one of the participating shops and start your stroll.

Apr 19-May 6 Shinobazu-dori in the Nezu-Sendagi area. tinyurl.com/ TOTbookstreet14. Free.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 13

Tokyo Diary

Mix it up Mexican, rock (right) or classical (below)…

The choice is yours

MUSIC RAINBOW DISCO CLUB TOKYO Last year’s incarnation marked a revival for this combo event that unites art and dance music, and this year’s version promises to take things one step further. The lineup includes Detroit’s techno guru Moodymann and Norwegian spaceman Prins Thomas.

Apr 29 Harumi Port Terminal, 5-7-1 Harumi, Chuo. rainbowdiscoclub. com. ¥6,500 adv, ¥8,000 on the door.

May AROUND TOWN CINCO DE MAYO FESTIVAL 2014 Originating in Mexico, this Latinflavoured festival is a celebration of both South and North American culture. It includes dance, music and food from countries such as Mexico, Peru, Brazil, Cuba, Chile and the US, as well as fun workshops.

May 3 & 4 Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizounocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTcinco. Free.

MUSIC LA FOLLE JOURNÉE AU JAPON 2014 Populist in the best sense of the word, La Folle Journée has been bringing concise, cheap classical music to the masses in Tokyo since 2005. This year’s edition features works by masters like Beethoven and Mozart.

May 3-5 Tokyo International Forum, 3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda. 03 5221 9000. tinyurl.com/TOTlafolle. Prices vary.

ART & CULTURE KANDA MATSURI One of the city’s top festivals, consisting of a week-long succession of ceremonial rituals and parades, centring around Kanda Shrine. Catch the processions featuring mikoshi (portable) shrines and Shinto priests on horseback.

May 14 & 15 Kanda Shrine, 2-16-2 Sotokanda, Chiyoda (and surrounding area). tinyurl.com/TOTkanda. Free.

ART & CULTURE SANJA MATSURI Tokyo’s biggest and best traditional celebration has been going on for over 700 years, and draws over a

May 17-Jun 2 Showa Kinen Park, 3173 Midoricho, Tachikawa. tinyurl. com/TOTmanpaku. Prices TBD.

million visitors. Brave the crowds for a glimpse at the enormous mikoshi (portable) shrines that are carried through the streets of Asakusa.

May 16-18 Asakusa Shrine, 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito. tinyurl.com/ TOTsanja. Free.

AROUND TOWN SHIBUYA KAGOSHIMA OHARA MATSURI The Ohara festival makes you feel like you’ve travelled to Kyushu’s Kagoshima – the food’s authentic, the atmosphere is very laid-back, and the dance performances are captivating.

May 17 & 18 Area around Shibuya Station and Dogenzaka. tinyurl.com/ TOTohara. Free.

AROUND TOWN THAI FESTIVAL 2014 Two days of dancing, music, martial arts and generously spiced grub are what’s in store at this annual festa in Yoyogi Park. You can also look forward to the usual array of stalls selling handicrafts, clothing and Singha beer.

May 17 & 18 Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizounocho, Shibuya. tinyurl. com/TOTthaifest.

Free.

FOOD & DRINK ROCKIN’ ON PRESENTS MANPAKU 2014 Feast on fast food treats like ramen, gyoza dumplings and more at this massive gourmand get-together organised by Rockin’ On magazine. The beer selection is also worth exploring.

MUSIC BRAINFEEDER 4 LA-based record label Brainfeeder, led by the innovative Steve ‘Flying Lotus’ Ellison, takes over Tokyo with this bonanza of a party that will also see appearances by bassist Thundercat and ‘beat artist’ Teebs.

May 23 Ageha, 2-210 Shin-Kiba, Koto.

03 5534 2525. www.beatink. com/Events/ Brainfeeder4/. ¥5,500 adv.

MUSIC TOKYO METROPOLITAN ROCK FESTIVAL Take the free shuttle bus from ShinKiba Station to the seaside festival site and rock out to the tunes of Sakanaction, Kyary Pamyu Pamyu,

Matsuri madness Join the Kanda and Sanja (right) festivals

Dance and dumplings At the Ohara festival and Rockin’ On Presents Manpaku 2014 (above)

14 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

KANDA MATSURI: TCVB; SANJA MATSURI: JAMES HADFIELD

Tokyo Diary

FILM ZUSHI BEACH FILM FESTIVAL Head down south for 10 days of movies on the beach, complemented by gigs, talks and spontaneous parties. How about enjoying a quality indie flick while the last rays of the sun are still visible on the horizon?

Apr 26-May 6 Zushi Beach, Kanagawa. tinyurl.com/TOTzushifilm.

Prices vary.

The Cro-Magnons, Androp, Perfume and more.

May 24 & 25 Wakasu Seaside Park, 3-2-1 Wakasu, Koto. tinyurl.com/ TOTmetrock. One-day pass ¥9,800.

June MUSIC TAICO CLUB ’14 Long one of Japan’s better dance festivals, this big-time outdoor bash has been picking up speed in recent years, and will once again see a great many fans make the pilgrimage to the forests of Nagano.

May 31-Jun 1 Kodama no Mori, Nagano. tinyurl.com/TOTtaico. ¥12,500 adv, ¥13,000 on the door.

Takao’s beer garden, 500m above sea level, while feasting on buffet fare and enjoying the open bar. How much do you think you can fit in over two hours? Note that the last cable car leaves at 9.15pm sharp!

Jun 22 - early Oct Next to Takao-san cable car station, 2205 Takao-machi, Hachioji. tinyurl.com/TOTtakaobeer. ¥3,500 men, ¥3,300 women, ¥2,500 junior high students, ¥1,500 elementary students, ¥500 children.

Permission to go wild Whether atop a mountain, at a dance fest (left, top) or in the Torigoe Matsuri mosh pit

ART & CULTURE TORIGOE MATSURI See the huge four-ton mikoshi (portable) shrine being shuttled through the streets near Asakusabashi at this festival, known for the intense fights that invariably break out over who gets to carry the monster.

Jun 7 & 8 Torigoe Shrine, 2-4-1 Torigoe, Taito. tinyurl.com/ TOTtorimat. Free.

Tokyo Diary

FOOD & DRINK MT TAKAO BEER MOUNT Gaze out over the city from Mt

TAICO CLUB ’14: JAMES HADFIELD

Want more upcoming events? Go online to timeout.com/tokyo

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Time Out + TOKYO-GA

IF SUMO WAS A CITY,

IT WOULD BE

TOKYO

Renowned Japanese photographer Yoshihiko Ueda joins the TOKYO-GA project to capture the spirit of the country’s national sport with exclusive portraits of champion wrestler Yokozuna Hakuho

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hotographing a sumo wrestler is a delicate affair. It requires a deep understanding of the sanctity of the tradition and adherence to very specific restrictions. This is why, aside from tournament action snaps, it is incredibly rare to see staged portraits of the sportsmen – even though plenty of photographers have tried their luck. Now, the founders of TOKYO-GA have worked to pair up photographer and sumo wrestler for a series of unprecedented portraits.

The idea came about when TOKYO-GA’s founder Naoko Ohta was brainstorming a way to express Tokyo’s unique combination of qualities to a global audience in the run up to the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. TOKYO-GA is an art project that seeks to portray the city through the images of 100 photographers from Japan and around the world.

Believing that ‘photography captures a moment as well as the spirit of today’, Ohta and her colleagues were originally inspired to launch the art project after the gigantic Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011. ‘We were so moved by the heart-breaking images of bereaved survivors wandering around the rubble looking for remaining pictures of their loved ones. This tragic event made us realise the power of photographs and their ability to prove one’s existence, while passing our memories on to the future.’

TOKYO-GA was launched in April 2011 with the aim of presenting a large-scale narrative image of

Tokyo through the eyes of different photographers.

‘By doing so, we hope to create an opportunity to rethink the value of the city,’ says Ohta. After three years, the group began to develop and change their approach. They started to consider focusing on certain themes in order to mirror the distinctive layers and textures of the city. ‘This is where the sumo project came into play.’ They chose Yoshihiko Ueda, acclaimed for the spiritual nature of this photographs, to capture the spirit of the sport and hence the city, through portraits of Yokozuna Hakuho (yokozuna refers to the highest rank in sumo). Twenty-nine-year-old Hakuho made his debut in 2001 and has won an astounding 28 championships.

The history of sumo stretches back to the time of the Kojiki, the country’s oldest existing chronicle, dating from the early 8th century.

Associated with elements including Shinto ritual, martial arts and even industrial enterprise, sumo preserves the traditional Japanese kata (form) and shikitari (rules and customs), most notable in the ooicho topknot hairdo and formal mawashi dress code. Although sumo still bans women from stepping onto the wrestling mound, it opened up the dohyo (ring) to non-Japanese wrestlers after World War II. Incidentally, Hakuho is from Mongolia – he is the second native of Mongolia to be promoted to the highest rank in sumo. Turn the page to view Hakuho in traditional sumo style.

SEE MORE SUMO

TOKYO-GA and Yoshihiko Ueda are holding an exhibition at Gallery 916 until April 12 in which they will showcase the full portrait series of cultural icon Yokozuna Hakuho.

The exhibition portrays Hakuho, a foreign champion in a highly protected world of tradition, as a representative of the contradictory and multi-layered character of Tokyo. Gallery 916 is curated by Ueda and is housed in a converted warehouse on the edge of Tokyo Bay. TOKYO-GA Presents: Yokozuna Hakuho Mar 21-Apr 12 (closed Sun-Mon) ¥800 adults, ¥500 students Gallery 916, 916small 6F No. 3 Suzue Bldg, 1-14-24 Kaigan, Minato Takeshiba Station (Yurikamome line), Hamamatsucho Station (JR line) 03 5403 9161 www.gallery916.com, www.tokyo-ga.org 11am-8pm (Sat & hol until 6.30pm)

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 17

Time Out + TOKYO-GA

18 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 19

LOOKING FOR TH [FUKUSHIMA UPDATE]

MAKING NEW MEMORIES

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Picture the future Photohoku helps create new albums

20 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

THE COTTON BABE BIZ

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roduce farmers in the Fukushima area suffered dearly after the nuclear power plants were damaged from the 3/11 tsunami, emitting radiation into the atmosphere and tainting the soil. Volunteers for the Fukushima Organic Cotton Project have stepped in to bring production back to the land and set up a means of income for refugees. They began bringing groups of volunteers to plant cotton seeds in fields that once grew fruits and vegetables. The volunteers returned to cultivate the plants and use the cotton to make ‘cotton babes’ – dolls that can be sold as souvenirs.

In 2013, the organisation cultivated three hectares of land and produced a yield of 800

WORDS AND IMAGES: NICK NARIGON

aori Kikuchi swipes through the photos on her cell phone until she finds a picture of her former house reduced to a pile of kindling. She says she can’t afford to buy a new home and she has lived in temporary housing ever since the 3/11 tsunami wiped away her worldly possessions. ‘I couldn’t even think about the future [at the time],’ she says.

Since then, she has married (she met her husband at the evacuation site) and given birth to a son, Kosei, now one year old. On January 26, she and her family travelled to Iwaki to sit for portraits with the professional photographers of Photohoku, a volunteer organisation determined to help families replace the photo albums they lost during the tsunami. Kikuchi says the pictures are the first portraits she has of her son, and the album they started with the assistance of Photohoku’s graphic designers is the only photo album she and her new family have.

Photohoku began when Yuko Yoshikawa, proprietor of a family photography business, wanted to do more to support 3/11 victims. She enlisted her lead photographer Brian Peterson and with a group of like-minded volunteers they made 30 trips to Fukushima. Since September 2011, Photohoku has taken nearly 10,000 photos for over 600 families. ‘We never had a goal, but we’ve been asked if we are going to continue Photohoku,’ says Peterson, adding that they have also sent a team to Oklahoma and are helping set up a team in the Philippines. ‘After three years, we’ve been adopted by these communities and we’ve followed the stories of these people. We’ve seen how their photo albums have grown. Because we’ve made these friends, I don’t think we’ll ever stop our work.’ www.facebook.com/photohoku

HE LIGHT Helping hands The Fukushima Organic Cotton Project is helping produce farmers find work again

In each issue of Time Out Tokyo magazine, we bring you news of recovery in the areas that were devastated by March 2011’s earthquake and tsunami.

Over the next three pages, we look at some of the people taking positive steps to help those affected

KNIGHTS IN WHITE LYCRA

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n late 2012, members of a monthly lunch club of British expats extended their lunch longer than usual, and as the wine kept flowing, they decided to combine their common love for cycling with their desire to help victims of the 3/11 tragedy. Thus the Tokyo Brits were born.

‘Many of us have lived in Japan for years, so we wanted to give back to the country we call home,’ says member Robert Williams. The group decided to ride 340km from Tokyo to Minamisoma in April 2013 in order to raise funds for the Save Minamisoma Project, which provides regular deliveries of fresh food and water for residents in temporary housing. They raised funds via sponsorships with activities including a pub night, which brought in ¥200,000, and by selling space on their cycling jerseys. One sponsor even paid to have its logo planted on or near their backsides.

kilograms of cotton, says Emiko Yoshida, president of the non-profit organisation The People, which presides over the Fukushima Organic Cotton Project. The People also raised money to open a community salon in the Onahama District of Iwaki, which has 500 to 600 visitors a month. In addition to using the facility to host workshops, training seminars and exhibitions, they teach refugees how to make the cotton dolls.

‘Slowly but steadily we are seeing the impact of our community space activities,’ says Yoshida. ‘Since we introduced our visitors to the “Making Cotton Babes” workshop we were able to pay some of the participants to make these ornaments for sale elsewhere. We are considering adding other workshops and activities like this, which will promote the financial independence of evacuees.’ www.iwaki-j.com/people/ (only in Japanese)

‘In spite of a blizzard wiping out one of our days, we eventually arrived in Minamisoma having raised ¥2.7 million,’ says Williams. ‘The elation of having completed the ride and the pure emotion of meeting the grateful local residents, together with the sadness of seeing the devastated coastline with our own eyes, inspired us to make the charity cycle ride an annual event.’

On May 15 this year the Tokyo Brits begin a fourday, 465km ride to Minamisanriku. Their aim is to raise ¥5 million for OGA For Aid Japan, a Japanese registered NPO, whose goal is to build a vegetable processing factory. www.facebook. com/cycle4tohoku, www.ogaforaid.org/ en/kiwl.html

Cycling for change Tokyo Brits on the road

YOU CAN HELP

One of the most essential aspects of recovery is rebuilding the numerous buildings that were destroyed.

ArchiAid is comprised of a group of Japanese architects who have stepped in to support revival and reconstruction, including the rebirth of the region’s architectural culture and education. To find out how you can help, by way of donations or expertise, visit archiaid.org/english.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 21

[FUKUSHIMA UPDATE]

THE LOST ONES While the government continues to push for power plant restarts, the evacuated residents of Iitate continue to live in limbo. Many of them had to leave their pets behind and are unable to return. Izumi Sakurai meets one of the heroic volunteers taking care of these animals

Support system Teruo Hibi (bottom) looks after the abandoned pets of Iitate. Below right: a Geiger counter shows the high level of radiation in the area

the village twice a month, for two days at a time, when he would patrol 50 to 60 houses each day between 5am and 9pm and feed the stranded animals. Often unable to contain his emotion on the trip home, he would sometimes burst into tears while on the Shinkansen. In July 2012, Hibi decided to move to Fukushima and he now does his round nearly every day.

Compiled in cooperation with other volunteers and with information gathered on the ground, the constantly changing list of 210 households in Iitate includes 198 dogs and 314 cats. Hibi realised the precarious state of the domestic cats in the village after observing one of them tending to its young. Even if the cat brought its offspring inside the house, there was nobody to feed it. Leaving food supply is also not without its problems – the volunteers have to get permission from every homeowner and improvise in order to keep the food hidden away from crows and other animals. One day in 2012, Hibi was visiting a house deep in the mountains and he came across a dog so ragged he thought it was dead. He ended up spending 10 months with Chibi (above), helping the dog to recover. Light finally returned to Chibi’s eyes, but sadly old age began to take its toll

Residents must demand improvements in living conditions

22 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

and he died last year. From then on, Hibi began to work harder to involve the pets’ owners. He felt it was important to help reduce the feelings of guilt some of these people had about leaving their pets behind.

Hibi says his volunteering is most of all about supporting people. His blog entries reveal how hard he tries to reduce the indebtedness and loneliness that many of the pet owners feel after having been forced to part with their companions. The work of Hibi and fellow volunteers has made it possible for some pets to return to their evacuee families or be adopted by others. Hibi keeps hoping for more support, but would also like the situation to be resolved so that there is no longer a need for his work. He stresses that, to recover what they have lost, the residents have to stand up for themselves and demand improvements in their living conditions.

All around the village, giant black lumps of contaminated soil are being dug up to be relocated, and there are plans to build incinerators in order to dispose of the radioactive waste from surrounding areas. There is no end in sight for such post-disaster struggles, and the invisible threat of radiation continues to engulf the village. Yet Hibi continues to venture into even the most contaminated areas: ‘Our generation was responsible for building the “nuclear society”, so most of all I feel sorry. I want to make sure that there’s a conclusion to this story, be it five or 10 years down the road.’

To read more about the volunteers, visit tinyurl.com/TOTvolunteers.

Song Sync

To show appreciation to the countries who have helped in Japan’s recovery after the Great East Japan Earthquake, Peach Aviation, the Miyagi prefectural government and Time Out Tokyo jointly founded Song Sync in late 2013. The project gathers together residents of the affected areas to sing songs dedicated to the assisting countries. Each song will be sung in the country’s home language.

Kicking off the project are the people of Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture, who recorded ‘Gan En De Xin’ (‘Grateful Heart’), a well-known Chinese song for expressing gratitude, in Mandarin to thank Taiwan for its generous donations. Included in the choir of singers are Miyagi's prefectural governor, students, chefs, barbers and more. Visit songsync.com for more information.

IMAGES: YUTAKA KAMIMURA, TERUO HIBI

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lessed with lush hills and plains, Iitate in Fukushima Prefecture used to be a prosperous farming region. After the March 2011 disaster at the Fukushima Dai-ichi nuclear power plant, this area, located 30km from the power station, was designated a Deliberate Evacuation Area due to severe radioactive contamination that exceeded 20 millisieverts per year. The 6,000-plus residents of Iitate remain displaced today, and as pets are not allowed in the temporary housing units, residents had to leave them behind. The mainly elderly evacuees have lived in this limbo for three years now, and very few are able to regularly make the almost hour-long journey back to their former homes to take care of their animal companions.

Every day, Teruo Hibi, 70, travels 65km from the city of Koriyama, Fukushima to take care of these pets. He’s been doing it for almost 400 days in a row now – a dramatic turnaround from the quiet life of retirement this amateur mountaineer had imagined.

His life changed in February 2012, almost a year after the Great East Japan Earthquake. Living in Kobe at the time, Hibi had just started using Twitter, via which he heard about the plight of the Iitate pets. He began volunteering at an animal shelter and started visiting

Courtesy calls Etiquette made easy

No 2 How to keep a poker face When navigating the stranger side of Japanese cuisine, one must try to maintain an air of ‘I’m not at all bothered by this raw, moving thing on my plate.’

By Matt Schley. Illustrations by Bunny Bissoux

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o you’ve had a great holiday in Japan. You’ve seen the sights, made a few Japanese friends, and eaten foods like ramen, gyoza and the ubiquitous curry rice, all of which have generally agreed with you.

Now, on the last night before heading home, your new friends want to take you out for... raw horse. Here are our tips for surviving (and enjoying!) some of Japan’s oddest delicacies.

DO HOLD YOUR NOSE Natto, or fermented soybeans, are frequently employed to test foreigners’ mettle – the stringy, slimy goop between the beans and the pungent odour are enough to turn off even the most intrepid palate (Japanese included).

But get past that and natto is a cheap, protein-packed meal that contains nattokinase, an enzyme (which, incidentally, you can buy in pill form) that’s effective against heart disease and Alzheimer’s. For a truly immersive natto experience (the odour hits you like a wave as you enter) check out Sendaiya where they serve natto-infused soba, udon, taco rice and even doughnuts.

Sendaiya: 2-27-8 Kitazawa, Setagayaya. 03 3481 2611. tinyurl. com/TOTsendaiya.

DO DEEP-FRY ’EM, SMOTHER ’EM, STICK ’EM IN A STEW Japan has less disinclination than the West when it comes to eating raw foods – sushi is the most common example, but raw eggs are also aplenty, as is raw meat. Japan also

Itchome Ichibanchi: 1-1-13 NishiAsakusa, Taito. tinyurl.com/ TOTitchome.

DON’T LOOK NOW Inago (grasshopper) used to appear more frequently in the Japanese diet than it does now, but it’s still available – we found 100g of the critters for about ¥500 at Yasuiya.

The scary part definitely comes from holding one of these crispy guys in front of your face – once you’re chomping on it, the sweet sauce means you might as well be eating chips. Just don’t get a leg stuck in your teeth.

Yasuiya: 1-15-14 Minami-Senju, Arakawa. tinyurl.com/TOTyasuiya.

serves up two animals the West generally considers more friend than food: horse and whale (it should be noted, though, that the whaling industry is now a loss-making venture due to low demand). If you’re invited for a sampling of either of these beasts and your hesitation stems from the raw factor rather than the moral implications, there’s good news: raw isn’t your only option.

Dojokko specialises in whale meat, and aside from sashimi they also offer a fried version that brings the meat closer to that old phrase, ‘Tastes just

like chicken.’ If you do go the raw route, though, the meat comes with a pretty delicious, slightly tangy sauce.

Horse meat comes in all forms, the most well-known being basashi, thin sashimi strips served with soy sauce (basashi ice cream is also a thing, apparently). But in addition to the raw stuff – which is pretty good – Itchome Ichibanchi in tourist-packed Asakusa serves up a stew you’d be hard-pressed to guess is horsebased. Which, we suppose, is how Ikea got away with it.

Dojokko: 1-17-6 Machiya, Arakawa.

03 3895 0003. tinyurl.com/ TOTdojokko.

DO BE BRAVE Want to one-up your iron-gutted Japanese buddies? Take a trip to Asadachi in Shinjuku’s Piss Alley. Sounding appetising already, isn’t it? At this holein-the-wall spot – whose name, by the way, translates as ‘morning wood’ – they serve up such delights as grilled salamander, snake liquor, and raw pig penis.

Itadakimasu.

Asadachi: 1-2-14 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku. tinyurl.com/TOTasadachi.

DON’T SPIT IT OUT Seriously though, if you have a real objection to eating what’s on your plate, just let your dinner taunters know. There are very few Japanese people who would be anything but understanding if you (politely!) refuse a dish.

For more on city life news and culture, see blogs.timeout.jp/en

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 23

The washoku ‘dress’ Kyary even makes food look cute

24 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

EAT LIKE A TOKYOITE

It’s official. Tokyo is the unofficial culinary capital of the world.

It consistently beats all other cities in terms of Michelin stars (currently 14 restaurants boast the top star rating) and in December 2013, washoku – the traditional cuisine of Japan – was recognised as an Intangible Cultural Heritage asset

by UNESCO. But that’s enough fact. All it takes to believe us is one bowl of ramen or a yakitori nibble. Over the next few pages, we bring you all you need to know about eating and drinking in Tokyo – including how to survive those monster highball hangovers. For starters, we’re serving up a slice of Kyary Pamyu Pamyu, the most talked-about Tokyoite right now

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he’s been called Japan’s Lady Gaga. And despite wishing the media would stop their incessant comparisons of stars with other stars, they are right. Kyary Pamyu Pamyu is every bit as compelling as her American counterpart.

Which probably explains why she has been one of the few Japanese artists to break into the international market – and in less than two years.

Famed for her kawaii-cum-kooky dress sense and weirdo facial expressions, 21-year-old Kyary started off as a model and blogger, before releasing her first single ‘PonPonPon’ in 2011.

She has since brought out two albums, ‘Pamyu Pamyu Revolution’ (2012) and ‘Nanda Collection’ (2013), written an autobiography titled ‘Oh! My God!! Harajuku Girl’ (2011), and been featured on the cover of ‘Dazed and Confused’. Right now she’s on her second world tour, but we managed to corner her for a quick Q&A.

What do you most love about food in Tokyo?

While I was on my first world tour, I enjoyed trying cuisines from different countries, but it did make me realise just how good Japanese food is. I think it’s pretty amazing you can get any kind of food in Tokyo. Personally, I have huge cravings for ramen.

What food can’t you live without?

Ume [Japanese plums, which are more like apricots], especially karikari ume [a sweet, crunchy, pickled version]. I always take them with me on tour and make sure I never run out of stock.

What’s the first thing you eat every morning?

I usually eat fruit for breakfast. Strawberries are my favourite.

You have been called the Queen of J-Pop. What has been the most exciting thing about your career so far?

I will always remember the thrill I experienced when performing my first concert overseas. The audience was so warm and energetic, all in a completely different way from the Japanese crowd, and I enjoyed every bit of it. I was also happy to know that there are so many fans across the ocean who enjoy my music.

You are known for your very decorated clothes and fashion shoots. Did you enjoy being ‘decorated’ with washoku for this shoot?

I loved it! I’ve dressed in some very unique styles before but never in pink against the unexpected backdrop of a traditional Japanese sushi restaurant.

Art direction Steve Nakamura Portrait Takeshi Hanzawa Styling Kumiko Iijima Hair and make-up Masayoshi Okudaira

Catch Kyary Pamyu Pamyu in concert in Tokyo on May 17-18. Visit www.timeout.com/tokyo for more details.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 25

[EAT LIKE A TOKYOITE]

Officially brilliant

When UNESCO registered traditional Japanese cuisine (washoku) on its Intangible Cultural Heritage list last December, it was cause for widespread celebration among the country’s restaurateurs, diners and apparatchiks. Washoku was praised not only for its more obvious selling points – including its reliance on healthy, seasonal produce – but also its role in promoting social cohesion. Yet while it may be booming overseas, where there are now more than 55,000 Japanese restaurants (and counting), it’s been struggling at home, as diets grow increasingly Westernised and youngsters balk at the lengthy apprenticeships required to become a sushi or soba chef. It’s hoped that the UNESCO designation will help towards addressing both problems, though some fear it will have unfortunate side effects too: writing in The New York Times, Gwen Robinson worried that it might end up ‘encouraging chefs to oversimplify and over-commercialise their traditions’.

JAPA FOOD

WHAT KIND OF RESTAURANT MAKES YOU COOK YOUR OWN FOOD? We answer Bill Murray’s memorable character quip from 'Lost in Translation'…

Okonomiyaki

（お好み焼き）

Is it a pancake? Is it a pizza? Osaka’s greatest culinary claim to fame, okonomiyaki is a mixture of batter, cabbage and various other ingredients – anything from thinly sliced pork to mochi rice cakes – that’s cooked up on a teppan hot-plate and smothered with a savoury-sweet sauce. Some restaurants will make it for you, but most prefer to let diners cook their own at their tables. There’s also Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, where the ingredients (including a layer of fried yakisoba noodles) are piled on a thin base of batter, and Tokyo’s own monjayaki (see page 29).

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A beginner’s guide to eating in Tokyo.

Words James Hadfield

Yakiniku（焼き肉）

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When the carnivore cravings kick in, there’s only one thing for it: yakiniku. The Japanese version of Korean barbecue (think bulgogi and galbi) invites diners to cook slices of meat and vegetables on a griddle in the centre of their table, then dunk them in a rich, pungent sauce before scoffing the lot.

Beef and offal are the most popular options at yakiniku restaurants, though you’ll also often find pork, chicken and seafood on the menu. If you’re feeling really gluttonous, look out for places that offer a tabehodai (all-you-can-eat) deal, and get ready to stuff yourself silly.

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26 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Shabu-shabu（しゃぶしゃぶ） Osaka restaurant Suehiro first coined the name shabu-shabu in 1952 (derived from the sound made as the meat is swished to and fro in the broth), though the dish itself is clearly derived from the traditional Chinese hot pot, shuàn yáng ròu. Thin slices of meat – usually beef – and vegetables are cooked quickly in a communal cauldron, then dunked in a dipping sauce and eaten with rice. The fanciest restaurants use premium wagyu and can cost more than ¥10,000 per head.

[EAT LIKE A TOKYOITE]

THE CULT OF RAMEN（ラーメン）

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Sure, it’s basically just noodles in soup, but ramen is so much more than that too. This popular fast food has developed a cult-like following in Japan: the staunchest devotees will slurp hundreds of bowls each year in search of their personal noodle nirvana. Born in the nation’s Chinatowns during the Meiji period (1868-1912), ramen was originally known as shina soba (Chinese noodles) before acquiring its current name, derived from the Chinese lā miān.

The most common soup bases are shoyu (soy sauce), shio (salt), tonkotsu (made with pork bones) and miso, though chicken and seafood-based broths are becoming increasingly common. And while it tastes great at lunchtime, it’s even better at the end of a hard night of boozing.

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JAPAN’S ANSWER TO THE BRITISH PUB: Izakaya（居酒屋） As another busy workday draws to a close, who wouldn’t want to kick back with a few drinks and some tasty grub? While the name gets awkwardly translated as ‘Japanese pub’, the izakaya is more like a cross between a tavern and a tapas bar: a place for drinking and eating, usually from shared dishes. They range from cheap chain restaurants to ultra-chic joints with eye-watering prices, while the cuisine is equally varied: expect everything from classic drinking fodder such as kara-age (fried chicken pieces) and kushiyaki (grilled skewers) to more sophisticated sashimi and tempura, or even cosmopolitan fusion food.

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For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 27

PITBALL23/SHUTTERSTOCK

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You can thank the Portuguese for this one: it was Jesuit missionaries in Nagasaki who first introduced Japan to the art of batter frying in the 16th century. Though the Tokugawa shogunate would later kick all the foreigners out, they couldn’t resist this particular culinary import (Tokugawa Ieyasu was a particular fan, leading to the apocryphal story that he died after contracting food poisoning from sea bream tempura). Chunks of seafood and vegetables are dipped in a light batter and cooked in canola or sesame oil, though the end results are far less stodgy than you’d expect from deep-fried food. Eat them one morsel at a time, or served atop a bowl of rice as tempura donburi.

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DEEP-FRIED COMFORT FOOD: Tempura（天ぷら）

[EAT LIKE A TOKYOITE]

In praise of honest grub

The power of ‘sumimasen!’

SAVE You won’t have to spend MONEY, EAT any time making awkward attempts to catch your OUT FOR LUNCH waiter’s eye in Tokyo. In

‘Hearty’ and ‘rib-sticking’ probably aren’t the first words that come to In Tokyo, there’s a simple way to eat well without keeping with Japanese mind when most bankrupting yourself: go out to lunch instead of tradition, a Westerners think of dinner. Rare is the restaurant that doesn’t offer simple cry of Japanese food. But some kind of lunchtime set, especially on weekdays, 'sumimasen!'

Tadashi Ono and Harris Salat are out to and there are often considerable savings to be had. (‘excuse change that with 'Japanese Soul Cooking'.

At popular office-worker haunts, you might expect to me!’) is all In their new recipe book, the New York-based get a full set – including rice, side dishes, drink and it takes to duo celebrates a style of cooking that’s far dessert – for the price of a dish from the regular à bring staff removed from traditional washoku. We’re la carte menu. But why stop there? You can eat scurrying to talking tonkatsu (deep-fried pork cutlet), curryfor under ¥5,000 per head at two-starred your table. and-rice, kara-age (fried chicken piece) and Michelin restaurants such as Édition Just be sure ramen: the kinds of dishes most school kids are Koji Shimomura, Yunke and Tateru to adjust the probably hoping to find on the dinner table when Yoshino Shiba. Go on: live volume accordingly: they get home. The authors note that many of these it up a little. a hearty bellow is the foods developed as a result of Japan’s opening to the norm if you’re in a busy Western world after the 1868 Meiji Restoration, and they’ve izakaya (they probably won’t hear you included some of the country’s best ersatz international crossotherwise), but you’ll want to keep things sotto breeds, including ebi (prawn) gratin and omurice. voce in more high-end restaurants. Come now, don’t 'Japanese Soul Cooking' (Ten Speed Press) by Tadashi Ono and Harris be shy.

Salat is out now.

RICE Japan’s staple food is part of the national psyche – so much so that the government goes to great lengths to support domestic farmers.

Traditionally, meals were designed to accompany rice, rather than other way around. Yet rice consumption has dropped by 17 percent over the past 15 years, while a recent survey found that nearly half of the population was happy to get through the day without having a bowlful.

TSUKEMONO

THE ESSENTIAL TABLE While the Brits have their meat and two veg, the classic Japanese meal is built around the principle of ichiju sansei. The phrase literally means ‘one soup, three dishes’, and it translates into an exceptionally well-balanced meal. In practice, you’d expect a bowl of miso soup accompanied by a main dish of meat, fish or tofu, and two side dishes, each of which should use different ingredients or preparation methods. (Tellingly, they don’t even bother to mention the rice: that part is a given.) But whatever the spread, there are a few basic elements that you can pretty much always expect to find…

MISO SOUP Where there’s rice, there’s usually miso soup. This nourishing broth, made from fermented soybean paste, comes in many varieties: sweet and light in Kyoto, dark and smoky in Nagoya, pungent but not too salty in Sendai. The soup itself usually contains tofu, wakame seaweed and negi spring onions, but you can also expect to find a range of seasonal ingredients, from shellfish to root vegetables.

5 WAYS TO RAISE EYEBROWS (and not in a good way)

❶ Pass food between chopsticks, or stick chopsticks upright in your food. Both actions resemble Japanese funeral rites. ❷ Pour soy sauce over your rice. Yeah, we know it tastes good, but the locals will probably be appalled. ❸ Wave your chopsticks around or point them at other people. You’re not Harry Potter. ❹ Use the wet towel (oshibori) to wipe your face and neck, unless you want to be taken for an unsophisticated hick. ❺ Give tips. Some restaurants will levy a service charge, but tipping just causes confusion.

28 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

SUMIMASEN: CRIXTINA/SHUTTERSTOCK; ESSENTIAL TABLE: EVERETT COLLECTION/SHUTTERSTOCK; RAISE EYEBROWS: KAZOKA/SHUTTERSTOCK

Though the word usually gets translated as ‘pickles’, tsukemono bear little relationship to the vinegary, heavily preserved varieties found in the West. Used as appetisers, condiments and palate cleansers, they run the gamut from mouth-puckering umeboshi plums to vibrant yellow takuan (made from dried daikon radish) and sweet, thinly sliced gari (ginger), a familiar presence at sushi restaurants.

[EAT LIKE A TOKYOITE]

FILMS FOR FOODIES

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（もんじゃ焼き）

Fukagawa-meshi

（深川飯）

Although often dismissed as a poor imitation of Back when the Fukagawa district was still on Tokyo Bay, Osaka’s okonomiyaki, Tokyo’s monjayaki was the area’s fishermen used to subsist on this nourishing actually created earlier. Main point of difference? dish. The eponymous Fukugawa-meshi consists of asari The latter uses more water in the batter, to clams and negi, cooked in miso soup and then predictably sloppy effect. Where to eat it poured over a bowl of rice. It’s recently Tsukishima’s famous Monja Street been revived by local restaurants is the place to go, with more than eager to reclaim a piece of Tokyo’s 50 restaurants to choose from. culinary heritage. Where to eat it Popular stops include Monja Try Fukagawajuku (1-6-7 Miyoshi, Kura (3-9-9 Tsukishima, Chuo) Koto), an old-school eatery and Monja Kondo (3-12-10 that specialises in the local Rich in heritage and famous in their town Tsukishima, Chuo). staple. of origin, that is. Once you’ve graduated

RICH AND FAMOUS

from ‘Japanese Food 101’, be sure to venture deeper into local cuisines. Every city, town and village in Japan seems to have its own speciality, known as meibutsu (literally, ‘famous thing’). You can eat just about all of them in Tokyo – but the capital also has a few homegrown dishes that it can call its own. Here are four to get you started…

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Soba

（そば）

Tokyo didn’t invent soba, but these grey-hued buckwheat noodles are the capital’s favourite.

Their popularity dates back to the Edo period (16031868), when the samurai class’s preference for eating polished white rice had left them susceptible to beriberi – something that the thiamine-rich soba could prevent. Where to eat it Kanda is the prime pilgrimage destination for soba aficionados, but the neighbourhood’s most famous restaurant, the wonderfully atmospheric Kanda Yabu Soba, is under reconstruction after a devastating fire last year.

Thankfully, you can still get a taste of tradition at the nearby Kanda Matsuya (1-13 Kanda-Sudacho, Chiyoda).

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Ningyo-yaki

（人形焼き）

Nowadays, there are all kinds of delicacies vying for attention in the average Tokyo souvenir shop, but a century ago one cake reigned supreme. Ningyo-yaki are made from fluffy batter filled with sweet bean paste, though their appeal comes from the huge range of shapes on offer, from traditional deities to Hello Kitty. Where to eat it Ningyocho is the birthplace of ningyo-yaki, but Asakusa has become the most popular spot to pick up some of these sweet treats. The bustling Nakamise Street is full of shops selling the cakes – the most famous of which, Kimuraya Honten (2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito), has been open for more than 140 years.

KAMOME DINER (2006) There’s been a glut of films recently devoted to the joys of home-style cooking, but none hit the mark quite like this gentle charmer from Naoko Ogigami. A Japanese woman running a café in Helsinki gradually wins over the locals with her lovingly prepared grub – though her cinnamon rolls look just as mouth-watering as the more typically Japanese shogayaki (pork and ginger) and onigiri.

TAMPOPO (1985) Juzo Itami’s free-wheeling comedy is without doubt the greatest Japanese food movie of all time. Centring around a pair of truck drivers who help the eponymous Tampopo turn her struggling ramen joint into the ultimate noodle shop, it finds time for all kinds of culinary detours, ranging from some hilariously kinky food play to an etiquette class in eating spaghetti.

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1 AND 3: TAKURO TOYAMA; 2 AND 4: YASUHISA SHIMBO; JIRO DREAMS OF SUSHI (DISTRIBUTED BY AMUSE SOFT, DVD ¥3,800+TAX) © 2011 SUSHI MOVIE, LLC; KAMOME DINER COURTESY OF VAP INC (DVD ¥4,800+TAX)

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Monjayaki

JIRO DREAMS OF SUSHI (2011) David Gelb’s documentary is a fascinating portrait of culinary obsession, as personified by octogenarian sushi master Jiro Ono, the oldest chef to have been awarded three Michelin stars.

Though it delves deep into Ono’s philosophy, the film also works as grade-A food porn – the next best thing for anyone unable to afford the ¥30,000plus bill at Sukiyabashi Jiro.

[EAT LIKE A TOKYOITE]

THE EVOLUTION OF

SUSHI

How long does it take to become a sushi chef?

4th century BC Where it all began

Like all good stories, this one begins with something fermented. Back in BC times, people in the mountainous regions of Southeast Asia realised their diet needed a protein kick. So they devised a way to preserve fish. They gutted it, sprinkled it with salt and then encased it in rice. The natural fermentation of the rice helped to preserve the fish, which meant it could still be eaten several months later (the rice was tossed out). This form of sushi was called narezushi (‘fermented sushi’). Incidentally, this preservation method is similar to the process of sake brewing.

8th century Japan gets a taste

Narezushi eventually found its way to Japan and by the Nara period (710-794), even the commoners had cottoned on to the trend. In the Kamakura period (1192-1333), narezushi mostly consisted of freshwater fish – you can still find some varieties in regional cuisine, including funazushi (crucian carp), hatahatazushi (sailfin sandfish), and nishinzushi (Pacific herring).

14th-18th century

WORDS: MARIKO KANAMORI JTCL.CO.JP. ILLUSTRATIONS: MASAHIRO FUKAZAWA. SUSHI CHEF: DATACRAFT CO., LTD. BAREFOOT MERMAID: MITSURU MARUYAMA

Sushi has a makeover

In the Muromachi period (1333-1573), sushi enthusiasts realised that, since there was no longer any need to preserve the fish for months on end, and the fermenting rice was edible for up to two weeks, why not eat the grain too? As the Edo period began in the 1600s, vinegar began to be used for preservation and seasoning, which led to the creation of izushi, oshizushi and the uniquely Japanese hayazushi. As you can imagine, these types of 'fast-food' pressed rice sushi became popular because there was no need to wait for fermentation – chefs could simply mix vinegar into rice and serve. It became the model for Edomae nigirizushi (Tokyo-style hand-moulded sushi), which took sushi from a preserved food to a cuisine that is singularly Japanese.

19th century

The star of Tokyo Nigirizushi was the star of the late Edo era. Its lipsmacking flavour and fast-food status caused a sensation throughout Tokyo and later the entire country.

Upper-class restaurants boasting the cuisine popped up everywhere, with rich merchants and sophisticated Tokyoites basking in the trend.

Early 20th century

Is it a delicacy or is it takeout?

After World War II, sushi became a delicacy because of the food rationing system. As a result, conveyor belt sushi restaurants and take-out sushi shops began appearing, offering a cheaper product and making sushi a fast-food once again.

1960s-1980s

Sushi goes to Hollywood Once Los Angeles caught wind of this healthy, low-fat food option, sushi bars started cropping up all over the city and beyond. American chefs put their own spin on the dish, inventing new styles like the California Roll.

By the late 1980s, sushi had spread to Europe, Central and South America, the Middle East, Asia and Australia.

When the New York sushi restaurant Hatsuhana was awarded a four-star rating by the New York Times in 1983, sushi restaurants were finally recognised as rivals to world-renowned French restaurants.

An extraordinarily long time. About three years just to learn how to cook rice properly. Eight years to learn how to do this: place some rice in your hand and shape it into a block; apply wasabi paste; place fish on top of the rice and shape into a bite-sized package. Sushi preparation looks very simple at a glance but the real artisan finds ingenious methods of making the freshest seasonal fish taste as delicious as humanely possible, with the moulding of rice for nigirizushi being the best demonstration of a sushi artisan's skill. How about the conveyor belt kind? Chances are, if you can’t see the chef doing his thing, your sushi is getting shaped by a moulding machine.

SUSHI AS ART Tokyo artist Takayo Kiyota, known as Tama-chan, takes the art of sushi to new levels by using maki rolls as a canvas.

She places an assortment of ingredients on the rice, rolls it and then slices it up to reveal a pattern in the rice. ‘You don't know how the images will come out until you cut the roll open, and the thrill of that moment is almost unbearable,’ she writes on her blog. Considering she can’t completely control the outcome of the image, it’s pretty impressive that she’s managed to design things such as her 'Barefoot Mermaid' (above), The Mona Lisa, and even a developing feotus inside a womb. Kiyota calls her creations Nikkori-zushi (Smile Sushi) and gives workshops where you can learn how to make your very own. Visit smilingsushiroll.com.

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[EAT LIKE A TOKYOITE]

What’s in a drink?

JAPANESE HANGOVER CURES Had one too many?

Here are six ways to beat the next-day blues

James Hadfield gets a lesson in perfect pairings from a veteran boozehound ● Shijimi fresh-water clams are rich in

I

t’s one of the most refined cuisines on the planet, famed for its elegant presentation and subtle flavours. So when you’re looking for something to wash down your washoku, only the most exquisite tipple will do, right?

‘I always start from cheap booze, people’s booze,’ says Tatsu Mizuno, a veteran drinks writer who’s been plying the Tokyo bar circuit since the Bubble era. We’re starting our evening at Yana in Daikanyama, a swish izakaya with a particularly fine menu of seafood.

But apparently there’s no need to get all highfalutin with the alcohol.

Tatsu starts me off with a glass of Yamabuki, a mugi (barley) shochu from Shiga Prefecture that’s aged for five years to give it a remarkably mellow taste. ‘When I first drank that stuff, I thought it was like a cross between shochu and Scotch,’ he says, as he knocks back a glass of awamori, a fiery Okinawan liquor best enjoyed alongside a plate of southern-style goya chanpuru (a stir-fry of bitter melon, tofu, pork and egg).

As the staff bring out an impeccably presented platter of sashimi, Tatsu orders me a glass of ultra-dry Senchu Hassaku nihonshu (sake) from Tosa in Kochi Prefecture.

Nothing but the good stuff, eh?

taurine, known to restore liver function, and also contain plenty of vital amino acids and minerals. Eat them in miso soup for added restorative effect.

The people’s boozer Tatsu Mizuno takes no prisoners

‘Basically, I think any nihonshu works with sashimi,’ he says, instantly deflating my newfound sense of sake snobbery.

‘After five glasses, you won’t be able to taste the difference.’

A few drinks later, we’re putting that theory to the test at a backstreet Shibuya izakaya called Samurai.

Tatsu opts for a plate of kara-age (fried chicken pieces), a staple of any serious Tokyo bar crawl, and orders a whisky highball to go with it.

‘Highballs should always be made with cheap whisky,’ he muses. ‘It goes well with all this fried shit.’ While Suntory Kakubin is the most popular choice, Samurai opts for something a little more esoteric, from the

TATSU MIZUNO AND FOOD IMAGES: JAMES HADFIELD. HANGOVER CURE: YASUHISA SHIMBO

Highballs should always be made with cheap whisky

● Marketed as a sports drink, Pocari Sweat helps rehydrate the body and replenish minerals – perfect at the end of a lengthy binge. You might want to opt for a two-litre bottle, just to be on the safe side. ● Ukon (turmeric) contains curcumin, believed to have antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties, and has the ability to restore liver function.

If you want to ward off a hangover, try necking a bottle of Ukon no Chikara before you go out.

Mars distillery in Nagano Prefecture.

‘That’s people’s whisky!’ proclaims Tatsu as he orders up another round.

We’re on track to getting pleasantly sozzled at this point, but there’s still time to consider a few other pairings. Deep-fried kushikatsu skewers apparently go well with Hoppy – Japan’s retro low-alcohol beer substitute – and shochu. (‘That’s a fantastic combination,’ comments Tatsu, approvingly.)

And we’d be remiss not to mention another classic dish: pan-fried gyoza dumplings. ‘If you come to Japan, try gyoza,’ says Tatsu, recommending that you order them with a typical Japanese lager such as Asahi Super Dry. ‘It probably wouldn’t match with Guinness.’ Well, of course not.

Yana: 12-10 Sarugakucho, Shibuya.

03 3464 0227. tinyurl.com/TOTyana.

Samurai: 2-4-6 Shibuya. 03 3407 3601. tinyurl.com/TOTsamurai.

● Hepalyse, also available at convenience stores, ups the stakes by using both turmeric and liver extract. If Ukon no Chikara isn’t doing the trick, try some of this instead – either before, during or after a night of drinking. ● When you’ve really overindulged, Solmac – a vile-tasting mixture of grass and leaf extracts, liquorice, turmeric and ginseng – can help calm even the most violently upset of stomachs. ● Umeboshi (pickled plums) are said to fortify the stomach’s mucous membranes. Eat a few before drinking in order to reduce alcohol absorption, or to bring stomach relief the morning after.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 33

[EAT LIKE A TOKYOITE]

KITCHEN COOL As spring inspires fresh dishes, we thought it was time to add some refined Japanese form to our cooking tools and tableware

Crane power

I’m like a bird

A better bento

Japanese legend holds that anyone who folds 1,000 origami cranes will be granted one wish by a crane. We’re not sure if grating 1,000 carrots with this crane-inspired oroshigane (grater) holds the same benefits, but it’ll at least make this particular chore effortless. If you prefer turtles to cranes, there’s a version to suit you too.

An indispensable part of a Japanese table setting, the soy sauce cruet doesn’t get cuter than this bird-shaped version designed by Kutani (Japanese porcelain) ware master Kamide Choemon and Spanish artist Jaime Hayón.

This ain’t no ordinary lunch box: crafted from Japanese cypress wood and layers of lacquer, this superb container reveals the quality of craftsmanship in Kiso lacquerware from Nagano Prefecture. It protects your lunch from the flavour-reducing effects of humidity (a Tokyo summer essential!) and will last forever. Literally.

Soy sauce cruet

¥1,420 Crane copper grater. Kamaasa Shoten, 2-24-1 Matsugaya, Taito. 03 3841 9355. www.kama-asa.co.jp/en.

9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5.30pm Sun & pub hol.

Wooden lunch box

¥31,500 (price varies with pattern) Jaime Hayón Kutani Choemon Soy Pot Bird (sauce dish included). Akomeya Tokyo, 2-2-6 Ginza, Chuo. 03 6758 0270. tinyurl.com/TOTakomeya. 11am-9pm daily.

¥8,100 (small), ¥8,856 (medium), ¥9,396 (large) Suri-urushi oval lunch box. Yanaka Matsunoya, 3-14-14 Nishi-Nippori, Arakawa. 03 3823 7441. tinyurl.com/TOTyanaka. 11am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat, Sun & pub hol (closed Tue).

For elegant scrubbing

It’s the simple things

Branded breakfast

Do away with those miserable greenand-yellow scourers and add some tawashi tenacity to your dish washing.

Kamenoko Tawashi’s scrubbing brushes are found in most Japanese homes, but our favourite kind has to be this miniature brush made from broomsedge grass.

Works wonders on teacup stains.

The northern part of Iwate Prefecture is known for its nanbu-tekki ironware, and with this bottle opener designed

by Jurgen Lehl of Babaghuri, the tradition gets a modern makeover. It’s coloured with black lacquer and iron oxide, and small enough to carry with you for spontaneous openings. No more fumbling with that lighter, then.

Customise your home-made pancakes and pastries with images of birds, Chinese characters and other cool designs – simply heat up your branding iron until slightly red and then press it onto the food in question.

Tawashi brush

¥1,050 (small), ¥1,260 (large) Broomsedge tawashi brush. Kamenoko Tawashi Nishio Shoten, 6-14-8 Takinogawa, Kita. 03 3916 3231. tinyurl.com/ TOTtawashi. 9am-5pm Mon-Fri.

Bottle opener

¥3,675 Babaghuri nanbu-tekki bottle opener

by Jurgen Lehl. Designshop, Shiro Bldg.

1F, 2-1-17 Minami-Azabu, Minato.

03 5791 9790. designshop.japanshops.com. 11am-7pm Mon-Sat.

Food branding iron

¥2,850 Branding iron. Majimaya Kashidouguten, 2-5-4 Nishi-Asakusa, Taito.

03 3844 3850. tinyurl.com/TOTmajimaya.

9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun.

Snow-capped sundowners Mount Fuji glass

The products at Sugawara Glassworks are all handmade and designed with contemporary flair. Making the unique shape of their Mount Fuji glass extra special is the fact that it depicts the sacred peak when filled with beer. Only question is, which brew deserves to be enjoyed World Heritage-style? ¥3,965 Sugawara Glassworks Sghr Sugawara Mount Fuji Glass. SGHR Shop Aoyama, Kita-Aoyama Honda Bldg.

1F, 3-10-18 Kita-Aoyama, Minato. 03 5468 8131. www.sugahara.com/ english. 10.30am-7.30pm daily.

NOTE: PRICES WERE CORRECT AT THE TIME OF GOING TO PRINT BUT MAY CHANGE ACCORDING TO TAX INCREASES.

34 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

WORDS: MASAKO MATSUZAKI. IMAGES: YASUHISA SHIMBO

Copper grater

[EAT LIKE A TOKYOITE]

Food-craze fever

Tokyo loves a culinary fad, and right now it just can’t get enough of hotcakes. But why, asks James Hadfield?

L

ast weekend, I did something I swore I’d never do: I queued for over an hour just for a plate of pancakes. Only a day after Tokyo had experienced its heaviest snowfall in decades, the prospect of a little winter chill wasn’t enough to deter customers from Eggs ’n Things in Harajuku, where a line stretched along the side of the restaurant and across the pavement.

It’s been four years since this Tokyo incarnation of the popular Hawaiian breakfast spot first opened, fuelling a pancake boom that’s since swept the capital in a tide of batter and maple syrup.

And it isn’t just pancakes. To walk the avenue between Harajuku and Omotesando stations is to run a gauntlet of queues of drooling shoppers, eager to get a taste of the latest culinary fad. If hotcakes aren’t your thing, you could always join the long lines outside gourmet popcorn shops Garrett and KuKuRuZa, or wait patiently for a chance to sample the chocolate fondue at Max Brenner.

Yet it’s the pancakes that confuse me the most. How did Tokyo manage to become so besotted with a food that’s so, well, unremarkable? The signature dish at Eggs ’n Things, a platter of five small rounds of batter suffocating under a zaftig mound of whipped cream strewn with strawberries and chopped nuts, is notable mostly for its excess.

Eating the whole thing by yourself

would be practically obscene.

How could a dish like this inspire people to queue for hours outside on a chilly Sunday afternoon – let alone ignite a citywide boom in one of the world’s least sensational breakfast foods?

When I put the question to Tomomi Nakagawa, a writer with a background in food and drink PR, she reminds me that pancakes were hardly the first edible import to drive Harajuku’s fashionable shoppers wild. Back in the ’80s, it was all about crêpes – specifically the cloying, cream-clogged creations churned out by local shop Marion Crêpes. Sure, she says, the people waiting outside Eggs ’n Things might be there to satisfy a genuine pancake craving or perhaps just their curiosity, but the ritual also ‘makes them feel that they’re up to date with the latest trend’.

There’s more to it than that, though. When it first opened, Eggs ’n Things had the good fortune to coincide with a wider boom in morning activities, known in Japanese as asakatsu. As Tokyoites warmed to the idea of squeezing in a yoga session or language class before heading to work, the media focus also fell on viable breakfast spots. And, well, there

weren’t that many to choose from.

‘It was never in our culture to go out for breakfast,’ says Tomomi.

‘Even the bakeries open after 10am – unlike the ones in France, which start from 6am.’ By offering breakfastappropriate fare at breakfastappropriate times, Eggs ’n Things and its legion of fellow pancake purveyors were onto something good.

But what about the gourmet popcorn, the chocolate fondues, the fancy burgers, the artisanal coffee, the authentically Neapolitan pizzas, or any of the other food crazes that have swept through Tokyo in the past few years? Tomomi warns against trying to draw too many general conclusions from my plate of pancakes, but she insists that the overall trend is a positive one.

‘What I can say in general is that the bar is definitely getting raised,’ she says. ‘On top of pancakes, popcorn and gourmet burgers, we’ve also had booms for drip coffee at convenience stores and craft beer. Consumers are becoming food critics, and everything has to be better quality than before.’

Oh, and if you’re wondering what the next trend is going to be, Tomomi has two words for you: French toast. Bring on the bacon.

How could a dish like this inspire people to queue for hours?

WHERE TO EAT PANCAKES If you can’t beat ’em, join ’em ...

Eggs ’n Things 4-30-2 Jingumae, Shibuya.

03 5775 5735. tinyurl.com/TOTeggsnthings.

Bills Tokyu Plaza Omotesando Harajuku 7F, 4-30-3 Jingumae, Shibuya.

03 5772 1133. bills-jp.net.

Cafe Kaila Gyre B1F, 5-10-1 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 6427 1310. tinyurl.com/ TOTkaila.

Rainbow Pancake Ares Garden Ares Garden Omotesando 2F, 4-28-4 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03-6434-0466. tinyurl.com/TOTrainbow Sunday Jam Lucessimo Bldg. 2F, 4-2828 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 3478 5707. tinyurl.com/TOTsundayjam.

Brooklyn Pancake House 6-14-12 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03-3409-2018. tinyurl.com/TOTbrooklyn.

Slappy Cakes Lumine Est 7F, 3-38-1 Shinjuku. 03-6457-4155. tinyurl.com/TOTslappycakes.

Sarabeth’s T-Site Station 2F, 1-35-17 Ebisu-Nishi,Shibuya. 03 5428 6358. www.sarabethsrestaurants.jp/en/.

Clinton St Baking Company YHT MinamiAoyama Bldg, 5-17-1 Minami-Aoyama, Minato. 03 6450 5944. tinyurl.com/ TOTclinton.

PANCAKE TOP RIGHT: JAMES HADFIELD

The Original Pancake House Marui Kichijoji 1F, 1-7-1 Kichijoji-Minamicho, Musashino. 042 226 6378. tinyurl.com/ TOTtoph.

VoiVoi 1-35-15 Sangenjaya, Setagaya.

03 3411 1214. tinyurl.com/TOTvoivoi.

Kyushu Pancake Cafe Southern Daikanyama 1-C, 20-9 Daikanyamacho, Shibuya. 03 6427 8272. tinyurl.com/ TOTkyushu.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 35

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Sophisticated shopping Tokyo’s oldest neighbourhood gets a flash of new stores and restaurants LOCAL INSIGHT

Naka-dori Street

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Edosakura-dori

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erhaps most famous for its main bridge – which was once the starting point for all forms of trade between Tokyo and other prefectures – the thriving business district of Nihonbashi has been quietly undergoing a makeover since 2004. Although it has retained plenty of the traditional stores and buildings, the area has seen 83 new shops opening, adding colour and energy to the neighbourhood. You need only visit the 1,000-year-old Fukutoku Shrine resting peacefully next to the gleaming department store of Coredo Muromachi to witness this wonderful combination of old and new. And if you visit in spring 2014, you’ll be treated to even more shopping pleasure, as Coredo 2 and Coredo 3 are set to open their doors then.

The second branch of Coredo Muromachi offers a wide range of restaurants including cook-to-order and takeaway options, as well as Toho Cinemas Nihonbashi which is the first cinema complex to ever open in Nihonbashi. The third branch is geared more towards the modern businessperson, with a focus on sophisticated craftsmanship and contemporary lifestyle products. Make sure you visit Claska Gallery & Shop ‘DO’ for specifically Japanese crafts, products and exhibitions.

Inbetween shopping, browse the stoned street of Naka-dori, where you’ll come across Fukutoku Shrine set inbetween rows of shops selling things like traditional Japanese sweets (at some of these stores you can actually see the pastry chef in action), and restaurants serving quality wine and craft beer till late at night.

Coredo Muromachi 2

Also stroll down the sakura tree-lined boulevard of Edosakura-dori Street, which comes alive in springtime, and enjoy a cappuccino at one of the outdoor terrace cafés.

For a spot of lunch, hop down to the basement floor of Nihonbashi Mitsui Tower where you you’ll find anything from Japanese oyakodon (rice with chicken and egg) to American-style burgers. If you’re there for dinner, you can order from multiple restaurants at the same time.

If you’re struggling to find a specific shop or restaurant, or you just want more information about the area, visit the tourist information centre in Coredo Muromachi where English-speaking guides are on hand to help.

Stroll down the sakura tree-lined boulevard of Edosakuradori

Nihonbashi

Mitsui Tower

NIHONBASHI TREKKING

Make the perfect soup

Nihonbashi Dashi Bar: Coredo Muromachi 1F, 2-2-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo.

Fancy yourself a chef

Kanda Sta.

Nihonbashi Kiya: Coredo Muromachi 1F, 2-2-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo.

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Savour true Tokyo sushi Janoichi Sushi: 1-6-7 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo.

NihonbashiKobunacho

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Mitsukoshi New Building Mikado-coffee

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Ibasen: 4-1 Nihonbashi Kobunacho, Chuo.

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NihonbashiMuromachi 3 Indulge in chocolate pastry

Watch Japanese comedy

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Queue up... Your tastebuds will thank you

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Kaneko Hannosuke: 1-11-15 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo.

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Nihonbashi- seaweed snacks Kabutocho Yamamoto Noriten: 1-6-3 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo.

Kayabacho Sta.

CHECK POINTS 1 COREDO MUROMACHI The first of the Coredo Muromachi store series opened in 2010 and holds a mixture of restaurants and shops selling traditional products. 2-2-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo.

2 COREDO MUROMACHI 2 A new shopping hot spot featuring cuisine from all around Japan. 2-3 Muromachi, Nihonbashi, Chuo.

6 FUKUTOKU SHRINE One of the oldest shrines in Nihonbashi, set to be moved to its new location in autumn 2014. 2-4-14 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo.

7 NIHONBASHI MITSUI TOWER This multi-facility complex features the

Mandarin Oriental Hotel on its top floors and a must-visit restaurant floor on the basement level. 2-1-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo.

3 COREDO MUROMACHI 3 Bringing you modern goodies blended with

8 NIHONBASHI BRIDGE This iconic bridge must have many stories to tell,

4 COREDO NIHONBASHI Directly connected to Nihonbashi Station,

9 NIHONBASHI BOAT TOUR This one-hour boat tour takes you under

5 MITSUI MEMORIAL MUSEUM See Japanese and Oriental artworks on

10 TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Pop in for guidance and free Wi-Fi at

traditional Japanese designs. 1-5 Muromachi, Nihonbashi, Chuo.

this shopping centre makes an elegant start to your neighbourhood exploration. 1-4-1 Nihonbashi, Chuo.

the 7th floor of Mitsui Honkan, which made the list of ‘important cultural properties of Japan’ in 1998. 2-1-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo.

having heard the chatter of people from all over Japan since 1603.

Nihonbashi Bridge to Sumida River. E-mail info@edo-tokyo.info for more information and to make a reservation.

the café, and pick up Time Out’s new Nihonbashi guide map while you’re at it. Coredo Muromachi B1, 2-2-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo

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Hal Yamashita Tokyo

Suju Dining Rokkaku

Teppanyaki Steak Kisentei

Tempura Yamanoue Roppongi

The art of gastronomy

LOCAL INSIGHT

For a taste of true Japanese cuisine, you need not venture further than trendy, skyscraper-filled Tokyo Midtown craftsmanship. This vision is also reflected through our restaurants.’

Another restaurant that pays tribute to traditional Japanese cooking is Tempura Yamanoue Roppongi. Its history goes back to 1954, when tempura specialist Yamanoue first opened inside Yamanoue (Hilltop) Hotel in Surugadai of Kanda. Staying true to its roots, the restaurant focuses on preserving and passing on its much-loved cuisine to the generations to come. Its Edo-style tempura makes full use of the master’s skilled cooking techniques and fresh ingredients get delivered each morning from the markets.

The sweet and refreshing aroma of sesame oil is bound to boost your appetite.

A more contemporary take on Japanese cuisine can be enjoyed at the Hal Yamashita Tokyo restaurant.

Described as a ‘Japanese fusion’ chef, Yamashita aims to infuse a Zen spirit in all his dishes by showing respect to the ingredients. ‘At the heart of fine dining is the necessity of working with absolutely the finest ingredients. I am extremely fortunate and happy to be able to provide all of the wonderful flavours of local ingredients from Kobe and its surrounding areas for my guests,’ says Yamashita.

The fusion of old and new is quite evident here in dishes such as ‘sea urchin roll by Kobe beef topped with smoked caviar’, ‘Kobe beef stew with akamiso’ and ‘grill of miso-marinated

A restaurant is a place to express the beauty of fresh ingredients

brand pork Meishan-ton’. When asked about his unique culinary style, he says, ‘A key underlying element to my style is the use of Japanese culinary aspects and ingredients. For example, I use eight different soy sauces, ten different salts (mainly sea salt) and six different types of miso.’ But his explorations don’t stop there as he also uses ‘organic vegetables from specially contracted farms’ and Rokko Kobe Water. ‘A restaurant is not just a place to cook. It is a place to express the beauty of fresh ingredients,’ says Yamashita.

Japanese cuisine is not only about the food, but also about the whole experience. At Kisentei, a teppanyaki steak speciality store opened by the long-established sukiyaki restaurant Imahan, you can indulge in Imahan Wagyu while enjoying the fantastic view of the parkland from your perch on the third floor of Tokyo Midtown’s Garden Terrace.

Chef Masao Watanabe explains how patrons are treated to a display of skilled culinary technique as food preparation takes place before your very eyes. ‘By doing so, we will be sure to serve the food at its best.’

WORDS: FRANCES BRITTLE-MATSUKI

J

apanese culture has always held a certain fascination for people in other parts of the world, with the country’s cuisine being just one of the many aspects to capture an international audience. It’s no surprise, really, what with the beautiful, detailed presentation and subtle flavours created by Japanese chefs.

Today, Japanese cuisine continues to express the importance of ingredients. This is because living a healthy lifestyle plays an important role in people’s lives and is an inherent part of the Japanese culture. Suju Dining Rokkaku in Tokyo Midtown is just one of the outstanding traditional restaurants that continues to explore depth of flavours, particularly in terms of condiments and locally produced seasonal vegetables. The owner, a miso and shoyu (soy sauce) producer from Karuizawa, Nagano, goes back to the root of where Japanese food comes from. His menus are based around authentic Japanese homestyle dishes of rice with miso soup, main dish and various side dishes – although his dishes of course far surpass the look and taste of home-cooked meals.

‘We feature the traditional Japanese miso and shoyu as the core of our product line-up. There is nothing fancy about them but they are produced to maximise the flavours of the food,’ he says.

‘Our hope is to offer carefully considered products made from quality ingredients and guaranteed

POST-SAKURA EVENTS

Kome: The Art of Rice Until Jun 15 It’s no secret that rice (kome) plays an important role in Japanese people’s lives, and this exhibition – staged by 21_21 Design Sight director/graphic designer Taku Satoh and cultural anthropologist Shinichi Takemura – aims to compel visitors to look at ‘kome as an exemplar for design’ and ‘rediscover kome as a global food’.

21_21 Design Sight, 9-7-6 Akasaka, Minato. www.2121designsight.jp/ en/. 11am-8pm Wed-Mon.

In full bloom

‘ONE HUNDRED FAMOUS VIEWS OF EDO: SURUGA-CHO’ IMAGE: UTAGAWA HIROSHIGE, OBAN POLYCHROME PRINT (NISHIKI-E), ANSEI 3 (1856), PRIVATE COLLECTION

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his year’s Midtown Blossom 2014, held between March 20 and April 20, invites you to enjoy an upscale spring in the city. In flavourfull springtime, 150 different kinds of cherry blossom trees – such as Somei-Yoshino and Yae-Benishidare – decorate the gardens and streets of Tokyo Midtown. To enhance the celebration, there will be various events and exclusive services designed to keep visitors entertained.

Key events include the Martini Blossom Lounge, which opens from 12-8pm during this period.

Inspired by the iconic Martini Terrazza bars, the small space is stylishly

set in an open-air environment.

Located in Midtown Garden, the event offers a fantastic view of the sakura namiki (line of cherry blossoms). As the sun sets, the cherry trees are lit up, showing off their more dramatic side. Light-ups start from 5pm and end at 11pm.

Certain restaurants are lucky enough to enjoy an exceptionally beautiful view overlooking the city full of blooming cherry trees.

Silin/Fuan Long Yuen, Tan-etsu, Hal Yamashita Tokyo, Suju Dining Rokkaku, Teppanyaki Steak Kisentei, Nirvana New York, Union Square Tokyo and Canoviano Cafe are among the best places to visit.

Additionally, special spring menus, influenced by the cherry blossoms, will also be served at many restaurants and cafés.

Why not capture this memorable moment by having your picture taken by a professional photographer?

Photostudio Hollyhock will be offering photo services at discounted prices.

Smile!

SAKURA NIBBLES The world’s No.1 Italian sparkling wine, according to the 2012 IWSR survey, Martini Rose will welcome spring in great taste, along with these spring-themed dishes by The Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo.

The Scientific Eye and Visual Wonders in Edo Mar 29-May 11 Suntory Museum of Art highlights the latter half of the Edo period, when microscopes, telescopes and other devices were imported from abroad and overturned the conventional thinking of vision in Japan. This exhibition introduces the new visual culture that flourished through the works of Katsushika Hokusai, Utagawa Hiroshige and other artists.

Suntory Museum of Art, 3F Galleria Tokyo Midtown, 9-7-4 Akasaka, Minato. www.suntory.co.jp/sma/. 10am-6pm Sun-Thur, Fri-Sat until 8pm.

Flower Art Award Pre-exhibition April 17-20 Showcasing the beauty of nature in full expression, including the work of 2007 Flower Art award winner Shuu Onodera who will exhibit his work titled ‘La Lumière Vivante’ (‘The Powerful Light’).

1F Galleria Tokyo Midtown, 9-7-4 Akasaka, Minato. 11am-9pm daily.

Also at other Tokyo Midtown venues, www.tokyo-midtown.com/en/ events_news/

CELEBRATE WITH A FREE DRINK! Cherry-infused cream cheese, served with slices of bread.

Fresh spring vegetable sticks with cherry blossom dip.

The perfect Aperitivo plate to pair with a drink.

Macarons, éclairs and other sakura-coloured sweets.

Enjoy hanami at Tokyo Midtown with a drink in the ideal setting of Martini Blossom Lounge. Cut out this coupon and take it along with you to receive your complimentary glass of rosé or soft drink*.Valid until April 20, 2014. *One drink per coupon

BI Scottish brews and quality eats in Ikebukuro.

To buy: four sips.

To rent: two sips.

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40 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

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Disclaimer Please make sure you drink responsibly. Victory is sweet, but hangovers are not.

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Take on Tokyo in a city-wide game of Drinkopoly for a chance to win dinner for two at Conrad Tokyo. Here’s how: Hop on the Yamanote line and Instagram a photo of yourself with a drink at the bar of each establishment on the board (don’t do them all in one night!). Make sure to hashtag your photos #timeouttokyo.

When you’re done, email us at competition@timeout.jp with your Instagram username. The closing date is June 30, 2014; winner will be chosen on July 6, 2014 , and you must book for dinner before December 31, 2014. For competition terms and conditions visit www. timeout.com/tokyo.

Take two sips of water.

Take on the city!

Pay ¥100 into the winner’s pot.

The number of spaces moved is determined by rolling a single die (in lieu of a physical die, use a free app such as 3D Dice, available for Android and Apple devices).

Properties are acquired by completing the specified drinking challenge using beer or mixed drinks unless otherwise noted. If you land on a space that has been acquired by another player, you must pay double in rent. Players do not have to pay rent on their own properties.

The game ends when all opposing players tap out. The winner takes the pot!

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Moto in Shinjuku

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Bar Ku Kon

Get an introduction to sake while snacking on tasty seafood.

To buy: three sips.

To rent: a sip and a half.

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Comfy and stylish, but very reasonably priced happy-hour hot spot.

To buy: three sips.

To rent: a sip and a half.

Play at home!

Daitoryo in Ueno

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Created by Jared Cline Edited by Ili Saarinen

Game on!

Start drinking with the locals from 10am.

To buy: four sips.

To rent: two sips.

KE P A RK I NG

Eating & Drinking

Goodbeer Faucets

Fujiya Honten

Friendly ale house with impressive beer selection.

To buy: two sips.

To rent: half a sip.

Dirt-cheap salaryman paradise, complete with wine bar.

To buy: two sips.

To rent: one sip.

OK A R A K

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Tatsuya in Ebisu

Meguro Tavern

Down-to-earth Ebisu yakitori eatery and pub.

To buy: one sip.

To rent: half a sip.

Above-average, unthreatening expat hangout.

To buy: one sip.

To rent: half a sip.

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Waterline Canalside brewery and floating lounge at Tennozu Isle To buy: two sips.

To rent: one sip.

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Pay ¥100 into the winner’s pot.

Sip on a cocktail high above Hibiya.

To buy: a shot.

To rent: half a shot.

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DevilCraft Hamamatsucho Wash down your deep dish pizza with a pint.

To buy: a shot.

To rent: half a shot.

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For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 41

Eating & Drinking

Y L O P O K N I R

Eating & Drinking The best new spots for celebrating the warmer weather

Masuda dreams of sushi Rei Masuda (below) used to be a star apprentice of Jiro Ono

RESTAURANT OF THE SEASON Since the documentary ‘Jiro Dreams of Sushi’ garnered worldwide attention in 2011, it’s nearly impossible to talk about sushi restaurants in Tokyo without making a comparison with Jiro Ono’s renowned eatery. In the case of Rei Masuda’s new restaurant, though, the comparison is apt, since Masuda was once a star apprentice of Jiro

and featured in the documentary.

At just 34 years old, this dedicated chef, originally from the city of Kokura in Kyushu, opened Sushi Masuda in MinamiAoyama on January 31.

Having moved to Tokyo after gaining experience at several famous sushi shops on his home island, Masuda spent nine years at Ginza’s Sukiyabashi Jiro, known as the pinnacle of the Japanese sushi world and the first restaurant in the country to be awarded three Michelin stars. Now, he has made his dream of opening his own sushi restaurant come true, saying that he still continuously strives to reach Jiro’s level of sophisticated skill in his own craft.

Sushi Masuda is an elegant and welcoming space that has room for 12 customers – six at the counter and six tucked away in the back room. All décor and tableware, including the black Wajima-nuri

lacquered dishes, were carefully selected by Masuda, who ensures the restaurant is temperaturecontrolled to maintain the quality of the ingredients. The menu, which is the same for both lunch and dinner, centres on the chef’s menu (¥18,000) – a selection of 17 to 19 sushi pieces. It can be upgraded with five or six appetisers, including sashimi and broiled fish (at a total of ¥23,000).

Upholding a Jiro tradition, Masuda personally selects the fish every morning at Tsukiji fish market, making sure he adds his unique touch by serving up rare specimens like kisu (Japanese whiting) and kasugo (baby snapper). And there’s no need to feel intimidated by sushi etiquette here – the engaging, talkative chef says he is happy to tailor his menu to suit preferences and enjoys making his customers feel at home. When he’s not shaping rice, Masuda visits art museums to ‘refine his sense of beauty’. And the proof is in the pudding – you’ll be sampling true Jiro-class sushi here, with no end to the attention to detail and flavour.

BC Minami-Aoyama Property B1F, 5-8-11 Minami-Aoyama, Minato.

03 6418 1334.

Masuda personally selects fish from Tsukiji market

42 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Top takeaways

AND THE FRIET After setting up shop in Hiroo in December last year, And The Friet has captivated Tokyoites with its seasonally changing selection of six kinds of fried potatoes, including authentic Belgian ones and delicious Japanese sweet potatoes. Pick a dip from 10 alternatives such as homemade mayonnaise, ‘three cheese mousse’ and anchovy cream.

5-16-1 Hiroo, Shibuya. 03 6409 6916. andthefriet.com. 10am-9pm daily.

Closest cherry blossom-viewing spot: Arisugawa-no-miya Memorial Park (www.arisugawa-park.jp/index.php).

POTATO CREAM Craving potato salad? You’ll find Potato Cream near Kumano Shrine in Jiyugaoka and you’ll love their irresistible cream creations. The popular eggplant- and minced meat-topped version with tomato cream is a sure bet at ¥525.

Both eat-in and take-out options are available.

1-25-2 Jiyugaoka, Meguro. 03 3725 0222. tinyurl.com/ TOTpotatocream.

11.30am-8pm (Thur-Tue).

Closest cherry blossom-viewing spot: Komazawa Olympic Park (www.tef.or.jp/ en_index.jsp).

365 JOURS All the bakery goodies are made from organic ingredients, including the popular curry bread. Their fluffy, thick bagel-like breads also come highly recommended.

1-6-12 Tomigaya, Shibuya. 03-68047357. tinyurl.com/TOT365jours.

9am-7pm (closed Wed).

Closest cherry blossom-viewing spot: Yoyogi Park (tinyurl.com/TOTyoyogipark).

WORDS: MARIKO KANAMORI JTCL.CO.JP. MASUDA: YASUHISA SHIMBO

Spring is in the fare

HANAMI PICNIC PICKS

WINE, ICE CREAM AND OYSTERS… ANIS Opened in August 2013 by a restaurant exec and chef who brings his experience at a French Michelin three-star to the table, Anis is possibly most notable for its extensive wine list. The dinner menu consists of à la carte choices and two prix fixe meals. Served on modern Japanese-style plates, the offerings include a range of creative appetisers, excellent seafood choices, expertly cooked meats, and a beautifully presented vegetable- and truffle-based hot pot. Round off the experience with a light and perfectly sized dessert.

1-9-7 Hatsudai, Shibuya. 03 6276 0026.

11.30am-2.30pm, 6-11.30pm Tues-Sun (closed Mon and 2nd Sun of every month).

GLACIEL Specialising in French-style ice cream, this Omotesando café opened in July 2013. The ground-floor shop is where to pick up some of their creamy wares, all hand-made on the premises, while shoppers in need of a sugar spike will enjoy the upstairs café, fully decked out in candy colours. If you’re overwhelmed by the extensive selection of sweets on offer, go for the ‘entremets glacé’ platter, a set of two or three glazed mousse cakes topped with seasonal fruits. Otherwise, the fresh sorbets are always a treat.

5-2-23 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 6427 4666. tinyurl. com/TOTglaciel. 11am-8pm Wed-Mon (open on Tues if pub hol).

WORDS: SACHIKO MINOU AND SAYAKA KAWABE

TOYOSU YAKIKAKIYA Kick back and while away a few carefree hours at Toyosu’s bayside oyster shack. It serves up the freshest seasonal oysters, scallops, clams and other kinds of shellfish, all for your grilling pleasure. Combine the lip-smacking food with beer (¥500) or hot wine (¥400) for a perfect spring day by the sea.

6-9-1 Toyosu, Koto. 070 6567 3474. yakikakiya. com/index.html (only in Japanese). 11am-11pm daily.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 43

Promotional feature

A tower of good taste Combine music, books and delicious food at Tower Records’ cool café and new diner

LOCAL INSIGHT

DRINK TO THE BEAT OF… The Tower Records team pairs top tracks with delicious drinks TOWER DINING EBISU

‘Beat! Beat! Beat!’

by The Bohemians Listen to it While eating Yaki-ton and sipping on Beat’s appropriately named bottled beer, Beat Beat.

ON THE BEAT Cacti, industrial metal work, checkerboard patterns and a good ol’ diner experience. The distinctive feel of West Coast Americana oozes from the newly launched Tower Dining Ebisu, which opened its doors on February 12 this year.

It’s not until you start to spot the music references – menus designed to look like vinyl album sleeves, record-inspired coasters, musical film footage – that you make the

connection with its parent company Tower Records.

Whether you’re stopping by for a tapas-style dish, which start from a surprisingly reasonable ¥300, or a healthy ‘carrot salad with orange’, served up in stylish glass jars with tin caps, this is a wonderful option for lunchtime meetings or late-night musings. Main dishes include the scrumptious TD Buffalo Chicken Wings and voluminous Asian-fusion Yaki-ton that gets served with an

original sauce of your choice. Spot on with Tokyo’s current craft beer movement, the drinks menu includes the exclusive Sankt Gallen and Tower Dining’s collaboration craft beer, Beat.

Teetotallers will relish the freshly squeezed fruit cocktails; perfect for warm spring and summer nights.

Tower Dining Ebisu, 1-17-17 Ebisu-Minami, Shibuya. 03 3760 0131. tower.jp/store/kanto/ towerdiningebisu. 11.30am-midnight daily.

‘She Does It Right’ by Dr.Feelgood Listen to it At the bar space while drinking Beat’s bottled beer Feelgood.

‘Beach Baby’ by First Class Listen to it On the outside terrace while tasting the kiwi ginger punch cocktail.

TOWER RECORDS CAFE

Power sockets and Walkmans are available for your convenience.

Choose from popular dishes including omurice (rice omelette) and loco moco (rice, egg and burger patty) – so tasty and beautifully presented with plenty of colours on the plate.

Sip on a cappuccino (take-away also available), a Newton apple beer or an American lemonade cocktail.

The café doubles up as a space

for pop-up events often linked to new album releases and live events, when you’ll find the décor transformed and special menus on offer. Check their Facebook page for upcoming events.

Tower Records Cafe, Tower Records Shibuya store 2F, 1-22-14 Jinnan, Shibuya. 03 3496 3672. tower.jp/store/kanto/shibuya.

10am-11.30pm daily.

‘Crash’ by The Primitives Listen to it While tucking into omurice and a fruity Newton beer.

WORDS: REIKO KUWABARA. IMAGES: YASUHISA SHIMBO

INDULGE ALL SENSES Fancy listening to your new CD while tucking into taco rice and flicking through the latest ‘W’ magazine?

Tower Records Cafe, inside Tokyo’s mega music powerhouse, is where to go.

You’ll find the café on the second floor of Tower Records, offering the ultimate one-stop-shop experience for music and book lovers alike.

‘Cape Cod Kwassa Kwassa’ by Vampire Weekend Listen to it While drinking a refreshing American lemonade cocktail.

Eating & Drinking

Cheap beer (and fauxbeer) taste test Ili Saarinen puts konbini brews through their paces

Y

THE FAUX BEER (HAPPOSHU) NODOGOSHI NAMA Known as the eternal favourite of Tokyo street-dwellers, the stupefyingly watery Nodogoshi features an unfortunately juice-like flavour and a hint of industrial metal in the aftertaste. An ocean of grey mediocrity; a weak showing on every level.

KIRIN SUMIKIRI The slightly sweet and noticeably bitter Sumikiri isn’t the worst choice out there, but the utter lack of character makes it difficult to recommend. The can’s deep silver colour and stylish design promised so much more…

BEST HAPPOSHU KINMUGI Fresh, almost flowery, this highly food-compatible fellow goes down effortlessly. The only happoshu here that can compete with actual beers. Exudes an exciting smell of petrol when poured – can’t be healthy, but who are we kidding here anyway?

MUGI & HOP ‘It’s beer to me’ – the advert slogan for this golden goon doesn’t exactly invoke confidence, and the soapy taste confirms all doubts.

Then there’s the brutally bitter aftertaste that reveals a mysterious, coriander-like smell. It’ll never be beer to me.

THE REAL BEER ASAHI SUPER DRY Japan’s best-selling beer was introduced in 1987 as a brew that would complement any meal and it promptly started a craze for dry beer.

It’s unabashedly neutral, except for the ickily lingering kick. Dry, sure, but less in terms of taste than attitude – picture an immigration clerk or an NHK news presenter.

ORION Okinawa’s contribution to the world of mediocre beverages starts off strong with its harmonious combo of kick and softness, but fizzles out pretty quickly with a disappointingly flat aftertaste. It can only be recommended as a sidekick to some bitter goya champuru.

AND THE WINNER IS...

KIRIN LAGER The sweet but unmistakably malty smell is promising and this honest, no-frills lager delivers. The ultimate cheap beer – nothing fancy, and a taste that remains utterly unchanged from the first sip to the ninth can of the night. Approval granted to one of Japan’s oldest beer brands.

IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

All beers five percent, 350ml, ¥210220/can, happoshu ¥110-130/can.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 45

Eating & Drinking

ou’re looking to have a good time without splurging on a bar night, and have made your way down to the local convenience store to pick up a few cold ones.

A dilemma emerges: you’re spoilt for choice. On top of the numerous regular beers, you’ve got a shelf full of cheaper but suspicious faux beers. These posers are known as happoshu, a kind of malt liquor created by ever-resourceful Japanese breweries for tax-evasion purposes (drinks with less than 67 percent malt content are not classified as beer, and are thus more leniently taxed). So, which will make your night in worthwhile?

We’ve done the research, putting four happoshu and three real beers to the test, and choosing one winner…

Promotional feature

E

verybody knows Japan is a shopper’s paradise. Go to the centre of any Japanese city and you will almost certainly find a department store overflowing with every kind of clothing, gift and necessity imaginable. The quality, of course, is impeccable, especially when it comes to food. But what you might not know is where to find this incredible cuisine. Two words: go below.

The underground floors of Japanese department stores are dedicated to the latest food trends. Referred to as depachika (‘depa’ means department store and ‘chika’ means underground), these hidden treasure troves deal in everything from fresh ingredients to luxurious sweets and gift items, mixing Japanese and Western styles and catering to every possible occasion. Positioning them in the basement is said to be a way of saving on water and electricity expenses, as well as avoiding the trouble of carrying supplies upstairs.

Known as the hub for heritage food stores from all over Japan, Shibuya lays claim to the first depachika and is now nicknamed ‘depachika heaven’ thanks to its high concentration of underground food stores. Three of Shibuya’s top depachika are directly connected to Shibuya Station. First of all, there’s Shibuya Hikarie ShinQs Food, which lures the ladies with designer sweets – including traditional Japanese creations, exquisite cakes, and Japanese pastries – and also holds the outposts of world-class brands like Pierre Marcolini and Joël Robuchon. Fatigued shoppers can take a breather and sip on a baristamade latte at the store’s stylish café.

Secondly, if you’re into exploring the most up-to-date Japanese deli choices, there’s Tokyu Food Show.

Around 80 shops cater to the bento (lunch box) and deli needs of hungry lunch hunters and those seeking a quick dinner fix after work. The extensive selection of world cuisines allows you to mix and match freely.

The third depachika is for those more interested in traditional Japanese flavours. Toyoko Noren-Gai was established in 1951 as a gallery for famed food shops from all over the country and hosts tried and tested old-timers like confectionery makers Toraya. It caters mainly to a mature crowd looking for special gifts.

Last but not least is Tokyu Plaza Shibuya’s Marusen Ichiba. Although not directly connected to the station, it’s just a hop-skip away from the southern exit. It boasts energetic fishmongers, veggie-stacked shelves, and fine butcher shops. Pop in here for daily necessities, kitchen supplies and reasonably priced deli dishes.

Next time you’re passing through Shibuya, come and discover this secret food heaven for a truly worldclass gourmet experience.

Tokyu Food Show

Shibuya’s

SECRET FO

Shibuya Marusen Ichiba

1

Shibuya Hikarie ShinQs Food

Shibuya Hikarie B2 and B3F, 2-21-1 Shibuya, Shibuya.

03 3461 1090. www.tokyu-dept. co.jp/shinqs. 10am-9pm daily.

2 Toyoko Noren-Gai

Shibuya Mark City B1F, 1-12-1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya.

03 3477 3111. www.tokyu-dept.co.jp/ toyoko/norengai. 10am-9pm daily.

Toyoko Noren-Gai

OD HEAVEN

Tokyu Food Show

3

Tokyu Toyoko Store B1F, 2-24-1, Shibuya, Shibuya. 03 3477 3111. www.tokyu-dept.co.jp/toyoko/ foodshow. 10am-9pm daily.

Your ticket to a whole new culinary world

Shibuya Marusen Ichiba

4

Tokyu Plaza Shibuya B1F, 1-2-2 Dogenzaka, Shibuya.

03 3770 3681. shibuya.tokyu-plaza. com/floormap/b1f/.

10am-8.30pm daily.

De

nen tos hi

109

Shibuya Tokyu Plaza

4

2 3

To Harajuku

Toy o

Shibuya Hikarie ShinQs Food

To Daikanyama

To Omotesando

on line line Ginza

ko l

1

JR Yamanote line

Hanzom

ine

Shibuya Station

WORDS: JUN IGARASHI. IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

46

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Rou

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Inok

Tokyu Honten Store

line

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A

J

is for… AFTERNOON TEA Stock up on a variety of flavourful tea leaves or tea bags, including the highest grade green tea from Kyoto by Ippodo (at Toyoko Noren-Gai). Then pick a pretty coloured teapot to make your afternoon-tea experience an occasion.

is for… JUICE BLENDED WHILE YOU WAIT Venture beyond your comfort zone and try a five-veg juice, or stick to the smoothie kind and go for strawberry and banana. Either way, you can’t beat a madeon-the-spot juice for a healthy tummy filler.

La Terre, Tokyu Food Show

Tsuruya Yoshinobu, Toyoko Noren-Gai

E

B

is for… BAKERY You’ll find plenty of baker goods here, each store having its own character and unique take on the perfect pastry. We recommend the cheeky beef stew peeking out of brioche or the lipsmacking chai scones.

is for… EVERY KIND OF JAPANESE SWEET If you’ve been in Tokyo for a while, you’ll be well acquainted with the azuki bean confection.

Depachika takes the tradition to the next level by offering an eye-popping plethora of styles, designs, colours and flavours. Ideal if you’re looking for an omiyage (obligation gift) to impress.

F

is for… FUSION Although there are plenty of traditional Japanese foods to be found here, you’ll find hints of Western inspiration, reflecting the country’s trend of ‘transcreating’ foods. So right next to a stall of gyoza you might find a delicatessen selling pasta and potato salad.

It’s a wonderful blend of foreign and familiar.

G

is for… GROCERIES ON THE RUN One of the standout points about depachika is that they are usually directly connected with a train station, making supermarket shopping in the heart of the city a convenient and simple task. Passing through Shibuya Station on your way home from work? Pop downstairs to Tokyu Food Show and pick up some fresh fish and an Italian salad, and hey, dinner’s done.

Kagafu Fumuroya, ShinQs Food B2F

C

is for… CLEVER LITTLE SOUP PACK Japanese food producers are kings of convenience, and they do what they do best with innovative products like a ready-made pack of ingredients that, when added to a bowl of hot water, miraculously turn into delicious fu (made from gluten of wheat flour) soup. Perfect for a quick office lunch inbetween meetings. Find it at ShinQs Food B2F.

D

is for… DECADENCE Even chocolate cake devotees will be seduced by the swirls of white cream and icing decorated with ruby red strawberries.

There are plenty of other sculptural masterpieces to choose from too, including the most lavish cupcakes you’ve ever seen.

H

is for… HACHIKO Tokyo’s most famous dog is well-represented in this subterranean food mecca, with Hachiko-themed products popping up at several different shop stalls – all exclusively sold at the depachika branches of these stores. So cute you could eat him.

THE A-Z OF

DEPAC Daidokoroya Zakkaten, Shibuya Marusen Ichiba

K

is for… KITCHEN Update your cooking equipment with tools and tricks in a tucked-away corner at Daidokoroya Zakkaten. Select from a range of exceptionally pretty traditional Japanese china crockery while you’re at it.

L

is for… LESS IS MORE With so much food on offer, you may wonder what happens to it all if it doesn’t get sold.

Well, there’s not much chance of that since an hour before closing, there are massive reductions on bento, deli and supermarket items. Get there around 7pm to take full advantage.

Hachiko Sauce from Shokoku Meisan, Tokyu Food Show

I

is for… IMPECCABLE QUALITY No need to trek all the way to Tsukiji fish market; you can get the freshest fish right here. You’ll also find premium beef, chicken and pork, and the best quality, blemish-free vegetables.

Hayashi Fruits Juice Stand, Tokyu Food Show

Shibuya Hormon, Shibuya Marusen Ichiba

M

is for… MEAT YOU THOUGHT YOU’D NEVER EAT Intestines, pigs’ feet, ears and tongue.

At Shibuya Hormon you’ll find all the weird and wonderful meat you have to try at least once while you’re in Japan.

Far East Bazaar, ShinQs Food B2F

N

is for… NUTS ‘N’ THINGS Stock up on sugar- and additive-free snacks at Far East Bazaar, including Arabian dates and Ugandan pineapple, which is said to be the best pineapple in the world. Great as a gift or just to enjoy at home with a glass of wine.

CHIKA

Le Chocolat de H x Paul Bassett, ShinQs Food B2F

R

is for… REST AND RECHARGE You may be surprised at the length of time you end up browsing this underground emporium, but with plenty of eat-in restaurant and café options, you can stop for a quick spot of sushi or tiramisu and coffee – and then keep going!

V

is for… VINEGAR FOR DRINKING Here’s a new kind of shot to try. Osuya’s fruit vinegar comes in various flavours, even chocolate, and is revered as a health-giving drink. Find it at ShinQs Food B2F.

W

is for… WAFFLE WAFFLE Acai berry is one of the latest superfood trends to take Tokyo, and the world, by storm. Eat the fruit in dessert form at Acai Café by Fruta Fruta (ShinQs Food B3F), which serves probably the most delicious acai waffles you’ve ever tasted.

O

is for… OCCASIONS With regular pop-up shops and goods designed specifically for special holidays, birthdays, Christmas, Valentine’s Day and other occasions are easy to shop for at depachika.

Kanazawa Asadaya, Toyoko Noren-Gai

S

is for… SUSHI It wouldn’t be Japan is there wasn’t expertly made sushi on offer. Choose from a variety of renowned restaurants that have stalls here selling a selection of their best fish.

We especially love the little leaf-wrapped parcels.

X

is for… X MARKS THE SPOT You can’t even begin to imagine the world that lies beneath Shibuya Station, and when you finally descend into the food haven, you’ll feel like you’ve discovered the pot of gold at the end of a treasure hunt. Go armed with a full wallet and the word ‘oishi’ (delicious) and you’ll feel like the biggest winner by far.

T

P

is for… PICK YOUR TIPPLE Pair your delicious dinner with your favourite wine or sake from one of the wellstocked liquor stores. They often offer tastings, so you can keep up to date with what’s trending too.

is for… TRADITIONAL VS MODERN Of the four depachika stores in the Shibuya Station area, Toyoko Noren-Gai is the most traditional. Here you’ll find an older crowd, shopping for things like miso and nori. But hop over to Tokyu Food Show and you’ll be mingling with working women, young moms and students all queuing up for a new product they caught wind of at www.depachika.com. It’s truly the best of both worlds.

WORDS: ANNEMARIE LUCK. IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Y Antonio’s Deli, Tokyu Food Show

Q

is for… QUICK FIX No time to cook for tonight’s dinner party?

No problem. The rows of ready-made meals seem to go on and on with temptations such as saucy yakitori (chicken skewers), rich avo and shrimp salad, crispy tempura, Chinese bento meals, dumplings and more.

Pariya, Tokyu Food Show

U

is for… UNBELIEVABLY DELICIOUS GELATO Avocado ice cream? Indeed. Gelato fans will be in their element trying out the imaginative flavours and combinations.

is for… YAY FOR FINDING CHEESE IN TOKYO! If you’re a cheese lover, you may have a hard time finding anything more adventurous than mozzarella at your local supermarket. Tokyu Food Show, however, is renowned for its remarkable selection of cheeses. Enjoy!

Z

is for… ZING Spice fans are not forgotten with options such as Mumbai Marche Indian foods and Mango Tree Thai curry satisfying palates that like an extra kick in their dish. Find them at ShinQs Food B3F.

Shopping & Style Street runway With Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo having taken the capital by storm in March, all eyes are on fashion. But while the shows offer designers’ dreams, some of the best looks are often catwalked in real life. We went in search of Tokyo’s best streetstyle in the city’s top fashion meccas

Shopping & Style

Yui & Natsuki Matching coats, shirts and hats, Bodyline.

Skirts, And Romeo.

Handbags, Burberry and Disney Store.

Accessories, Disney Store.

Ei-chan Jacket and skirt, One Spo. Socks, Shimamura.

Boots, Fint.

Maomaro Coat, Peace Now. Dress, Dangerous Nude.

AKIHABARA Subculture signatures

50 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Makoto Dress, Taka no Tsume.

IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA, KISA TOYOSHIMA, KENTA HOSHINO

Juri Jacket, Momoiro Clover Z official merchandise.

Polka-dot dress, Galaxxxy.

Sneakers, Nike.

KOENJI Vintage hipster

Shiho Tasaki Army jacket and dress, vintage.

Clutch bag, Alice McCall.

Yuta Sato Blouson, Second Street.

Tops, Grimoire.

Trousers, Kinji.

Necklace, Mad Tea Party.

Maashii Robe, Haight & Ashbury.

Dress and trousers, Mad Tea Party.

Kosuke Miyata Poncho, 50/50.

Sneakers, Nike.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 51

Shopping & Style

Yuki Akai Biker jacket and trousers, Dog. Handbag, vintage Chanel.

Sneakers, Chapter.

Shopping & Style Mayu Manson Biker jacket and trousers, Stylenanda.

Hat, New Era. Sneakers, Nike.

Yuri Nakagawa Coat, Kye. T-shirt, Daniel Palillo.

Trousers, lilLilly.

Boots, Ulula.

Accessories, MYOB.

SHIBUYA

Yuto Yashige Sunglasses, Inari.

Earmuffs, Yves Salomon.

Shoes, Prada.

Cutting-edge cool

Ryohei Kan Jacket, Yohji Yamamoto.

Shirt, Issey Miyake.

52 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Sally Izawa Blouson, Yokosuka.

Bag, Nakano Ropeway.

Earrings, Dorothy Vacance.

Shoes, Getta Grip.

HARAJUKU Anything-goes eccentric

Noa Sakurai Blouson, Adidas.

Skirt, H&M. Shoes, Yru.

Li Lium Jacket, KTZ. Jeans, vintage.

Hat, Labrat.

Necklace, Chanel.

Iidatchi All clothing, secondhand.

Kyararu Yurameru (left), A-pon (right) Dresses, bags, rings, all Angelic Pretty.

Riko Fukunaga Baseball jacket, Kinsella.

Top, WIA. Beret, Kangol.

Shoes, Wego.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 53

Shopping & Style

Made in Tokyo Shopping & Style

Japanese fashion is well represented on the world stage, but don’t overlook the burgeoning talent right here at home, says Reiko Kuwabara

‘W

hat I like most about Tokyo fashion is its street culture. There is no other city in the world where the youth have so much power and influence over society,’ says Masanori Morikawa, the creative behind one of Japan’s most talked-about young brands, Christian Dada. ‘Being Japanese, my identity is reflected through my designs quite naturally. I probably wouldn’t be designing if it weren’t for this city.’

After working for French designer Charles Anastase in London in 2007, Morikawa returned to Japan to co-launch the fashion label Livraison.

He then moved on to establish his own label, Christian Dada, launching for autumn/winter 2010. A year later his range made its catwalk debut, and he has since designed costumes for the likes of Lady Gaga – including the gold-studded sleeveless leather jacket she wore (with pretty much nothing underneath) to the 2011 MTV Aid Japan Awards, and the pink Origami Crane Dress she wore during her 2012 world tour. At the end of last year he opened his flagship store in Harajuku.

Morikawa’s signature style is a monochromatic palette with handcrafted surface textures and gothic undertones, usually presented on androgynous silhouettes. For his spring/summer 2014 collection, entitled Defective, he took inspiration from the Japanese subcultures including the bosozoku biker gang and their tokkofuku (battle uniforms). Although he didn’t show at this season’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo, Morikawa has been popular among the critics since he launched Dada. At Fashion Week Tokyo’s autumn/ winter 2013 show, he won the DHL Designer Award, which recognizes up-and-coming talent.

No doubt Morikawa is headed for the bright lights, following in the footsteps of designers such as Kenzo Takada, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo – all of whom have helped Japanese fashion make its mark on the West.

Takada was the first to hit the headlines when he debuted in Paris in the ‘70s. Miyake followed shortly afterwards. Next Yamamoto and Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons made themselves known, creating a global craze for their deconstructed

MAME

style, which the fashion industry dubbed ‘avantgarde’. Takada and co are still very much on the frontline and their success is encouraging for up-andcoming style stars such AKANE UTSUNOMIYA as Morikawa, as well as his peers Shueh Jen-Fang, Maiko Kurogouchi, Akane Hasui, Keiko Miyakoshi and Hitoshi Korogi.

‘Japanese fashion is all about freedom; even people on the streets look so free and happy,’ says Shueh Jen-Fang, who launched her brand Jenny Fax in spring/summer 2011.

Jen-Fang was born in Taiwan and studied at Esmod International Paris and La Cambre in Belgium before moving to Tokyo in 2006. Jen-Fang’s unique ROGGYKEI approach to fashion has won her a strong fan base. She says she draws inspiration from her childhood part, because isn’t it always these ‘hidden gems’ memories and unexpected places: that turn out to be not only the most interesting but ‘I love Nakano Broadway; the culture also the most talked about? and atmosphere. And even the Mame designer Maiko Kurogouchi takes a Indian restaurant near my house is similar approach, preferring to organise invitevery inspiring.’ only showroom presentations instead of catwalk Her latest collection shows off her trademark shows. ‘The communication with the people femininity and childlike innocence in its frill involved is very important. It’s what makes the overload and exaggerated proportions – all brand stronger,’ says the designer, who studied patterned with motifs of her favourite Asian idols. at Bunka Fashion College and honed her skills at When she presented it at Shibuya Fashion Festival Issey Miyake’s Design Studio in Tokyo. You may in 2013, a huge crowd gathered – no surprise be more familiar with her iconic sculptural PVC there, but what is interesting is that she presented accessories than her womenswear range, but the it off-schedule. Meaning, she chose not to be latter is equally impressive. ‘Mame is all about listed on the official schedule, instead positioning traditional Japanese techniques, mostCafé notable Kitsunéin herself as non-mainstream. A clever move on her the fabrics and embroidery,’ she says. Launched

Japanese fashion is about freedom

54 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

NEW STORES Where to shop for Tokyo-born brands

trend much into of range

has evolved so that it’s developed a distinctive style its own.’ Her latest is based on the word ‘domestic’ and features references to CHRISTIAN DADA aprons, tin cans, linen, curtains, and even floral textiles belonging to her mother. Hasui’s trademark knitwear designs are still very much a part of this range and as always, she strikes the right balance between style and wearability. ‘When designing clothes, I consider climate and landscape, so the Japanese influences are definitely there,’ she says. But its also her global perspective that brings a new sense of modernism to the Japanese market.

Tokyo is not the only city in Japan with a vibrant youth culture and fashion scene. Cool new brands are also emerging from Osaka, and we’re especially enamoured with Keiko Miyakoshi and Hitoshi Korogi’s Roggykei, which offers an edgy in 2010, the brand’s look is timeless take on feminine silhouettes and street casuals. yet modern with subtle textile twists.

Based on the concept of ‘clothes as accessories, Kurogouchi says her latest collection accessories as clothes’, Roggykei came into is influenced by ‘memories like visiting being in 2006 and has since been spotted on my grandmother’s house up in the fashionable bods both in Japan and abroad. mountains of Nagano’.

In Tokyo, you can find the range at stores like Also choosing showroom over catwalk Xanadu and Midwest Tokyo. And the brand’s main is Akane Hasui, designer of Akane store, Roggykei Gallery Shop, is set to reopen in Utsunomiya, which debuted in autumn/ Fukushima, Osaka in late April 2014. winter 2010. After studying textile and ‘We don’t worry too much about where we are knitwear at Central Saint Martins in based,’ says Korogi, ‘We feel very lucky to be London, Hasui returned to Tokyo able to work with the local factories and weavers to launch her label. When asked here in Osaka; they have been very supportive. what she likes most about Tokyo Essentially, though, a Japanese identity is always she says, ‘I like the way Japanese in the DNA of the brand.’ people mix formal with casual. This

JUN OKAMOTO The best place to indulge in Jun Okamoto’s poetic world of ‘innocent colours and feminine detailing’ is at this Daikanyama store. Offering the brand’s latest collection and its semibespoke line, Wallflower by Jun Okamoto (for those who wish to re-create from archival styles), the store is the brand’s Tokyo home, so Okamoto himself often pops in. Check the website for in-store events.

12-3 Daikanyamacho, Shibuya. 03 6455 3466. www.junokamoto.com.

11.30am-8pm daily.

2[NI] Not only does this unique store offer the latest streetwear from Alexander Lee Chang, but it’s also a pitstop for skaters who come here to hang out, watch films and do kickflips on the (tight) mini ramp. Dreamt up by the pro skater-turned-designer, the store originally opened in Sendagaya in 2012 but reopened in Matsumizaka at the beginning of this year. Chang’s designs combine West Coast skater style with Japanese aesthetics – think laid-back unisex designs with a focus on detailing.

Kawabata Bldg. 1F , 2-6-14 Ohashi, Meguro.

03 6804 7704. www. alexanderleechang. com. 3pm-8pm weekdays, 1pm-6pm Sat, Sun & pub hol (closed Mon and Thu).

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 55

Shopping & Style

JENNY FAX

T6M Here you’ll find Japanese sportsluxe footwear brand The Daughters, brought to life by shoe design extraordinaires Yoichiro Kitadate (known for his involvement in the Nike Air Jordan and Reebok Pump Fury projects) and Noritaka Tatehana (creator of Lady Gaga’s infamous heel-less heels). T6M also sells a mix of fashion, food and lifestyle products, and also hosts an art space curated by Tatehana.

1-20-3 Ebisu-Minami, Shibuya.

03 6451 2666. www.t6m.jp.

1pm-8pm Mon-Sat.

LGBT TOKYO RAINBOW WEEK The LGBT cousin of Golden Week combines awareness and entertainment

LGBT

Love conquers the law Yuki Keiser (right) and her bride

Same-sex marriage in Japan?

Not yet. But Yuki Keiser, who has been a key player in the Japanese lesbian community and recently married her girlfriend in the US, reckons ‘it’s only a matter of time’. Words Reiko Kuwabara. Portrait Cody T Williams

A

s Thailand prepares to become the first Asian country to legalise civil partnerships for same-sex couples, Tokyoites are wondering if there’s any chance Japan will make a similar move. In Japan, same-sex couples are denied the legal rights and benefits that heterosexual couples acquire through legal unions. ‘So even though I am legally married in the US, I am still treated as single in Japan,’ says freelance writer and PR agent Yuki Keiser. ‘This means that, should I decide to live in Japan, my wife cannot move with me because she is not eligible for a spousal visa.’

Last December, Keiser, who is Swiss-Japanese, and her American wife tied the knot in California after the Defense of Marriage Act

(DOMA) was abolished.

They have since applied for a spouse visa. ‘We also considered legal partnership in my home country of Switzerland, but this doesn’t offer the same benefits as marriage.

For example, couples registered as being in a partnership are not allowed to adopt,’ she explains.

‘So with all this in mind, getting married in the US made more sense.’

Before relocating to the US in December 2013, Keiser was instrumental in helping to create awareness of the LGBT community in Tokyo through her creative ventures.

She founded the web magazine TokyoWrestling.com in 2007 and edited ‘Tokyo BOIS!’ in 2011, a photo interview book that portrays Japan’s boyish lesbians and FtM transgenders, and also the lesbian fashion journal Tokyo Finger Bang Style which was launched in 2012.

All three projects were the first of their kind in Japan and garnered international attention. Keiser says, ‘Compared with the growing support of same-sex marriage in Europe and

Tokyo Disneyland hosted its first gay wedding

56 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

the US, Japan is still lacking when it comes to providing public awareness, visibility, discussion opportunities and knowledge about LGBT rights.’

That said, Tokyo Disneyland hosted its first same-sex wedding last year and there is an increasing number of Japanese nationals getting legally married to same-sex partners and obtaining their spouse visa abroad.

Recently, there was a groundbreaking case in which an American military person living in Japan had his husband acknowledged as a spouse. This means his husband was allowed to stay in Japan, which is exceptional considering the law.

So awareness is gradually increasing in Japan, and Keiser believes things are changing.

‘Even in Switzerland, 15 years ago, there was a lot of prejudice against LGBT people. But now same-sex couples enjoy partnership rights and are generally viewed with a more positive attitude. So Japan may not be too far away; it’s only a matter of time, I hope.’

For more LGBT listings and reviews, go to timeout.com/tokyo

WHEN: April 26-May 6 (Golden Week) WHERE: Various venues around Tokyo WHAT: Launched last year, Tokyo Rainbow Week celebrates LGBT pride with a host of events including a riproaring parade, which last year saw more than 12,000 people gathering in Yoyogi Park and taking to the streets alongside floats and fancy dress.

WHY: It is estimated that 5.2 percent of Japan’s population is LGBT. ‘Our aim is to raise awareness of sexual minorities… Our hope is that people will understand them better as a result,’ says Tokyo Rainbow Week leader Fumino Sugiyama.

WHO: For last year’s event, seven LGBT organisations, including Tokyo Rainbow Pride, joined forces to host the event. Several embassies collaborated to launch ‘The World Supports You’ Embassy Project, which saw representatives from countries including the UK, the US, the Netherlands, France and Sweden setting up booths and handing out information on LGBT news and events in their countries. Even Japanese politicians got involved, with Taiga Ishikawa, a Tokyo politician and LGBT activist, delivering a speech about improving living conditions for gay people in Tokyo.

For more information and the full schedule of events visit www. tokyorainbowweek.jp.

Art & Culture WHO’S WHO

EIMI

Art & Culture

Born in 1986, associated with artist collectives Digmeout, Shibuya Girls Pop and Sweet Streets. Goods available at Nakano Broadway bookstore Tacoche.

Mannequin-v.hippy.jp

Art by Lie Fujishiro, F*Kaori (right) and Eimi (below)

Anime meets art A new generation of Japanese artists are using Photoshop as their canvas, the internet as their gallery and anime as their inspiration.

Matt Schley browses the movement

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ong relegated to subcultural status, the art of anime and manga is starting to gather respect in its country of origin, with artists like Katsuhiro Otomo (writer and illustrator of ‘Akira’) celebrated at exhibitions and profiled in lifestyle magazines. But the latest development in this movement is an emerging generation of young artists for whom the anime aesthetic is simply a part of life.

‘I grew up trying to mimic my favourite anime and manga artists,’ says F*Kaori, whose distinctly kawaii art uses a poppy, colourful palette. ‘I think that’s why I naturally adopted my style.’ Lie Fujishiro, whose multilayered art has been featured at Takashi Murakami’s Hidari Zingaro (see opposite page), became frustrated when his peers, who grew up reading and doodling manga, switched to a realistic style as soon as they entered art school. ‘I became interested in bridging that gap,’ he says.

This genre of young artists is linked by their emergence via the internet, where social media gives direct access to fans – and idols. Osaka-based MEMO says she garnered a lot of attention after ‘Yasuhiro

Nightow [creator of the manga series “Trigun”] praised some of my art on Twitter’.

The aesthetics of ’80s anime, specifically, are another thread between them: F*Kaori, MEMO and fellow artist Eimi were part of a ‘back to the ’80s’ event held by Shibuya fashion brand Galaxxxy last year. But, you might ask, why are a group of artists under 30 interested in ’80s anime? ‘Since I didn’t experience the ’80s firsthand, the atmosphere, fashion, colours and slang feel really fresh,’ says Eimi.

Though they’ve all made the jump to real-life galleries, they all continue to use their internet handles. ‘When I first started, I was embarrassed to use my real name,’ says Eimi, ‘But now it helps keep the “real me” and “artist me” separate.’ F*Kaori says ten years ago society thought of anime as trashy. So ‘it was a good idea to adopt a pen name’. But, she continues, though most people still have a negative association with the word ‘otaku’, ‘I’ve gained self-confidence.

These days I don’t think drawing anime style art is anything to be ashamed of’.

58 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

F*KAORI

Born in 1985, illustrates for fashion brand Galaxxxy. fkaorism.main.jp

LIE FUJISHIRO

Born in 1990, co-founder of Pixiv-based artist collective Chaos*Lounge. Most recent solo exhibition, ‘Charactronica’, was an examination of the meaning of character.

MEMO

Born in 1990, style is based on ’80s and ’90s pop culture, fashion and manga. momep1ct.web.fc2.com

Pixiv Zingaro. Below: Hidari Zingaro.

Right: Oz Zingaro. Far right: Bar Zingaro

Get your nerd on

IMAGES: MATT SCHLEY. © KAIKAI KIKI CO. LTD. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

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uilt in the ’60s as a posh shopping hotspot, Broadway underwent a transformation over the years into a mecca for anime, manga and subculture obsessives as hobby shops took over its labyrinthine halls. Now Broadway is experiencing a second transformation – into an art space – thanks to Takashi Murakami, who has opened several galleries there. Like Murakami’s work itself, the galleries mark an intersection between the low- and high-brow worlds of anime and fine art.

The idea came to Murakami and his company Kaikai Kiki a few years ago when, instead of standard anime hotspot Akihabara, they took some visiting clients on a tour of Broadway. The clients’ response to the overwhelming sights and sounds of the nerd paradise was extremely enthusiastic, prompting Kaikai Kiki to set up an office in the mall. The idea was to bring clients to Broadway, show them around, then get down to business. But it wasn’t too long before Murakami and crew started to get more ambitious. They

conceived of a small gallery close to the office where they could – unlike with their main gallery in upscale Moto-Azabu – take chances with young, upcoming, non-commercial artists. Thus was born gallery Hidari Zingaro, named after Edo-era ‘punk sculptor’ Hidari Zingoro. More galleries focused on Murakami’s various interests shortly followed, as did as Bar Zingaro, a café/bar that opened in November last year.

Since setting up shop in Broadway five years ago, Kaikai Kiki have seen the mall jump in popularity, both with foreigners and more casual shoppers, all while retaining its inherent quirkiness. If anything, the addition of the Zingaro galleries has added to that: while there’s a commercial component to them, their primary mission is to seek out and promote new, hungry artists.

Pop art, anime, crafts, coffee and beer: in the weird, ever-changing space called Nakano Broadway, the Zingaro galleries are a perfect fit.

PIXIV ZINGARO A collaboration between Kaikai Kiki and Pixiv, the popular anime-themed art-sharing website, Pixiv Zingaro features artists who’ve come up not through traditional avenues, but through Pixiv’s rankings. pixiv-zingaro.jp/

BAR ZINGARO Produced by Norwegian café experts Fuglen, Bar Zingaro was opened in November 2013 to better facilitate a sense of unity between the various galleries. The artwork on display rotates along with the galleries’ exhibitions. The perfect place to catch your breath and have a chat, Bar Zingaro serves craft beers from Japanese brewers Baird and Hitachino, Aeropress coffee, and something called a ‘corny vanilla bourbon milkshake’. bar-zingaro.jp/ Nakano Broadway: 5-52-15 Nakano. 03 3387 1610. www.nbw.jp. Opening hours vary between stores.

HIDARI ZINGARO Hidari Zingaro, opened in 2010, has hosted exhibitions by promising young artists as well as creators from a variety of fields including Shin Suzuki and Yoshio Suzuki.

Hidari Zingaro also regularly displays works from prize winners at Geisai, a festival for artists that’s sponsored by Kaikai Kiki. Between shows, it serves as a permanent display of Murakami prints. tinyurl.com/TOThidari For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 59

Art & Culture

Just west of Shinjuku, in a neighbourhood called Nakano, lies an anime mecca inside an ageing mall

OZ ZINGARO Named not after the Wizard, but the internet shorthand for ‘otsukaresama’ (‘good work today!’), Oz Zingaro was opened to showcase another one of Murakami’s major passions: ceramics. Though a few of the items are antiques, most of the pots, dishes and other ceramic artworks are made by contemporary artists. oz-zingaro.jp/

Art & Culture

Essential exhibitions ‘ANDY WARHOL: 15 MINUTES ETERNAL’

‘Andy Warhol: 15 Minutes Eternal’ Mori Art Museum, until May 6 The Mori Art Museum collaborates with Pittsburgh’s Andy Warhol Museum for this extensive retrospective, presenting the pop art king’s life and work through nearly 700 pieces, ranging from drawings and paintings to films and sculptures, and including many of Warhol’s most recognisable artworks. The largest ever exhibition of its kind in Japan, the show aims to serve as an allencompassing introduction to the artist’s work.

Roppongi Hills Mori Tower 53F, 6-101 Roppongi, Minato. 03 5777 8600. www.mori.art.museum/eng/.

10am-10pm Wed-Mon, 10am-5pm Tue.

‘Mt Fuji, Cherry Blossoms, and Flowers in Spring’ Yamatane Museum of Art, until May 11 Commemorating the registration of Mt Fuji as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site, this exhibition looks at the sacred mountain through pieces by Nihonga artists Taikan Yokoyama and Togyu Okumura, as well as through ukiyo-e works by masters like Hokusai and Hiroshige.

Complementing the mountain theme are paintings depicting the colourful flowers that herald spring in Japan.

3-12-36 Hiroo, Shibuya. 03 5777 8600. www.yamatane-museum.jp/ english/. 10am-5pm Tue-Sun (closed Mon and May 7, but open on April 28 and May 5).

‘The Marvelous Real’ Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo, until May 11 This commemorative exhibition provides an in-depth look at contemporary Spanish painting, sculptures and spatial art. Seen through the work of 27 artists, the focus here is on what counts as ‘real’, and how the boundaries between the real and the fantastical have been and are blurred.

4-1-1 Miyoshi, Koto. 03 5245 4111. www.mot-art-museum.jp/eng/.

10am-6pm Tue-Sun (Closed Mon and May 7, but open on May 5).

‘Questioning the Concept of Fashion’ Art Tower Mito Contemporary Art Gallery, until May 18 Based on fashion editor Nakako Hayashi’s book ‘Expanded Fashion’, this show looks at clothing as a reflection of our lifestyle and values.

A selection of works by artists, including photographer Takashi Homma, film director and novelist Miranda July, and contemporary artist Ryoko Aoki, questions the consumerist ideology prevalent in the fashion industry.

1-6-8 Gokencho, Mito, Ibaraki.

029 227 8111. arttowermito.or.jp 60 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

9.30am-6pm Tue-Sun (Closed Mon but open on May 5).

‘Japan Avantgarde’ Poster Haris Gallery and Atsukobarouh Arts Drinks Talk, Apr 23-May 19 Japanese underground theatre blossomed between the ’60s and ’80s, and the creative energy that fuelled this success was also captured in the advertisement material of the era. Designed by renowned creators like Tadanori Yokoo and Aquirax Uno, these ‘un-gra’ theatre posters retain great artistic value. See them now at this rare exhibition.

Poster Haris Gallery: Asaka Bldg.

Room 103, 2-26-18 Dogenzaka, Shibuya. 03 5456 7218. tinyurl.com/ TOTharis. Opening hours vary.

Atsukobarouh Arts Drinks Talk: Crossroad Bldg 5F, 1-29-1 Shoto, Shibuya. 03 6427 8048. tinyurl.com/ TOTatsukobarouh. 2pm-9pm WedSat, 11am-6pm Sun-Tue.

‘Hiroshige Blue’ Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial Museum of Art, Apr 1-May 28 The beautiful shade used by ukiyo-e artist Utagawa Hiroshige is not just any blue – it’s Prussian blue, the kind used on Dutch ships. Enter the world Hiroshige created using this special colour in the series ‘One Hundred Famous Views of Edo’ and ‘Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido’, and check out works from renowned artists like Katsushika Hokusai and Utagawa Kuniyoshi too.

1-10-10 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 3403 0880. www.ukiyoe-ota-muse. jp/index-E.html. 10.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun (Closed Mon, Apr 29-30 and May 7, but open May 5).

‘ANDY WARHOL: 15 MINUTES ETERNAL’ INSTALLATION VIEW: MORI ART MUSEUM 2014/2/1-5/6 – IMAGE BY WATANABE OSAMU, COURTESY OF MORI ART MUSEUM, © 2014 THE ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION FOR THE VISUAL ARTS, INC, ARS, NEW YORK; ‘MT FUJI, THE SACRED MOUNTAIN’: IMAGE BY YOKOYAMA TAIKAN, COURTESY OF YAMATANE MUSEUM OF ART; ‘THE MARVELOUS REAL’: ‘UNTITLED’ IMAGE BY VICENTE BLANCO, FROM THE SERIES ‘PAISAJE NEVADO, 2002’, MUSAC COLLECTION, © VICENTE BLANCO; ‘HIROSHIGE THE FIFTY-THREE STATIONS OF THE TOKAIDO’: ART

BY UTAGAWA, IMAGE BY NUMAZU, COURTESTY OF MUSAC

Art & Culture

From a fitting tribute to spring’s cherry blossoms to the impact underground Japanese theatre had on the ‘mad men’ of the ’60s, ’70s and ’80s, here’s our pick of this season’s top art shows

We know what women want

Oh Romeo Reon Yuzuki (third from left) is one of Takarazuka’s top ‘male stars’

Art & Culture

The perfect man (played by a woman) Takarazuka, the all-female musical troupe, celebrates 100 years of a very unique form of traditional theatre. Words and photographs Mark Buckton

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sk the average person on a Tokyo street to name a traditional form of theatre and no doubt they’ll mention kabuki or noh, or possibly bunraku. Few would think to include Takarazuka Revue in their answer, even though over the past few decades this all-female Broadway-style show has been by far the nation’s most popular form of theatre when it comes to putting bums on seats.

Get over the stereotype Some people view Takarazuka as too glitzy-glam, as little more than a hollowed out romantic plot played out by a horde of heavily made-up women running around in plumes of ostrich feathers. But, while the troupe might be decked out in costumes that’d cause even Liberace to raise an eyebrow, Takarazuka and its massive repertoire of plays is just as deep and varied as the performances put on by the male-only kabuki and noh actors.

‘Romeo & Juliet’, ‘For Whom the Bell Tolls’ and ‘Wuthering Heights’ have all formed part of the mixed bag of more serious Takarazuka plays in recent years, while ‘An Officer and a Gentleman’ and ‘Shall We Dance’ have entertained audiences both in Tokyo and in its spiritual home of Takarazuka city, Hyogo prefecture, over the past year.

The female advantage Reon Yuzuki is arguably Takarazuka’s top actress and she describes the art form as ‘an integral part of Japanese culture’.

Its distinctive feature is that women play male roles, and in so doing they represent the ‘ideal form of masculinity’. But what exactly is it about their portrayals that, every year, bring in audiences of around 2.5 million (mostly female and some of whom are fanatic supporters of the leading otokoyaku or ‘male star’)? ‘As a result of [our] long, thoughtful and in-depth

analysis of what makes a “man”, we can portray that perfect guy,’ says Yuzuki. ‘The fact that we are female is actually an advantage. We know what women want and how they wish to be treated by men. Japanese guys are usually shy about following the “ladies first” rule of etiquette, so female audiences like to watch us, the otokoyaku, acting in this way without a second thought.’

100 years of non-cut action Dating back to 1913, this unique acting group was the brainchild of Ichizo Kobayashi. As the thenpresident of Hankyu Railway, Kobayashi was out to attract tourists to the resort town of Takarazuka, which would in turn increase the use of his train line. And he succeeded big time. Thousands of performances later and the five troupes (Flower, Moon, Snow, Star, Cosmos) of modern-day Takarazuka are now marking their centenary with plays showing all over Japan. So it’s the ideal time to catch the kind of non-cut, do-it-again stage action that makes Takarazuka Japan’s leading form of ‘traditional’ theatre.

For more dance and performing arts, go to timeout.com/tokyo

Where to watch Takarazuka The Tokyo Takarazuka Theatre is in Hibiya, not far from the Imperial Palace and The Imperial Hotel.

Tickets sell out quickly and are a bit tricky to get your hands on, so you need to reserve well in advance. Check the website to see what’s showing and then call the theatre to book (if your Japanese is not up to scratch, you might need to ask a local to help). You can also go to the theatre and book in person. If you’re booking from abroad, you can ask your hotel concierge staff to help ahead of time. Otherwise, opt for the ‘same day’ standing tickets for the rear of the second floor, but this does involve getting in line early.

1-1-3 Yurakucho, Chiyoda (Yurakucho, Hibiya Stations). 03 5251 2001 (closed Mon). kageki.hankyu.co.jp/ english/.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 61

Music

Music

Solo mission Ayami Muto goes it alone

Japanese idol Although Simon Fuller hasn’t found his way into the music market over here, the term ‘pop idol’ has. Meet the latest local sensation, 17-year-old Ayami Muto, who’s making her solo debut this spring. Words Jun Igarashi

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he Japanese ‘idol’ scene today mainly conjures up images of pop groups performing choreographed song-and-dance routines. But rewind a few decades – to when idol culture first surfaced in the early ’70s and then really peaked in the ’80s with performers like Seiko Matsuda becoming national phenomena – and anyone living in Japan at the time will remember that, back then, almost all the stars were solo acts. Now, as Ayami Muto steps up to take her leading spot in the idol category, things have come full circle.

Even though she hasn’t hit 18 yet, Muto has been performing for almost a decade now. Growing up in the countryside, surrounded by horses tended to by her father, a former jockey and now a horse trainer, young Muto had no interest in becoming an artist at first. ‘I was a simple kid. I didn’t even like to have my picture taken, but I decided to do some modelling for a kids’ clothing catalogue, just because it was fun.

I never dreamed of becoming a singer!’

But after that first modelling stint, she began appearing in TV commercials and shows, and then entered her first idol group, Karen Girl’s, at the age

of 11. A year later she joined Sakura Gakuin, a combo of teen girls aspiring to become actresses, singers or models. ‘It was all about absorbing as many things as we could while we were growing up.

We worked hard every day and it was during this time that I learnt to love singing.’

After graduating from junior high school at 15, it was also time for Muto to ‘graduate’ (the term is often used when an idol leaves a group) from Sakura Gakuin. She has spent the last two years as a solo idol, with the stage all to herself for the first time. Although she admits this has its challenges, like having to quickly improve her singing and dancing skills, she says there are benefits to performing solo: ‘Everyone’s looking at me! In the past, I was on stage with the team, so the audience’s attention was divided. Now I’m the only one they focus on, which makes me happy.’

Muto is lucky enough to have top talent from the music, art direction and fashion industries working ceaselessly to help her realise her full potential.

How does she feel about the fact that most of the people she’s working with are old enough to be her parents? ‘I feel like I need to keep up! For example,

I was a simple kid; I didn’t even like to have my picture taken

62 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

I’m impressed with the musicians who show me how they record their music, and I understand how committed they are to their craft. My voice is my instrument, so I have realised that I need to feel as strongly about it as my colleagues do about their instruments. I guess that shows how much I hate losing!’

With her cute features, slight frame and 150cm stature, Muto looks like the stereotypical idol. But what kind of image does she want to project? ‘I want to cheer people up. I recognise that people do idolise me, to an extent that goes beyond my singing or dancing, so I can only hope that as both an artist and an idol, I am able to inspire them in some way.’ And when she’s not on stage? ‘I enjoy strolling around by myself, so if given the time, I’d like to travel alone. I often take the train and go to Kamakura, just by myself!’ A fitting reply from a solo idol, we think.

Ayami Muto’s debut album, ‘Eternal and Moment’, will be on sale from April 23.

For gigs, festivals and more music interviews, go to timeout. com/tokyo

Talent scout There’s more to the idol industry than pop and frivolity. Metal groups, emo indie kids, and singing, dancing waitresses for starters…

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idols such as Izukoneko, who turns the standard recipe of a cheery, uplifting message on its head with negative lyrics and a clingy electro-pop sound.

Yet somehow, her shows still put a smile on your face.

Cashing in on the trend are stage-equipped ‘idol cafés’ featuring female staff who sing and dance while serving customers. Dempagumi. inc, who have been scheduling shows beyond the shores of Japan since last year, started out singing at Akihabara’s idol café Dear Stage. The appeal of these cafés is, of course, the fact that you get to meet the performers in person. They may not be famous yet, but there’s a good chance they might be one day soon. And once they take to the real stage, there goes your chance of having them serve you a cappuccino.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 63

Music

he idol concept has existed in Japan for almost half a century now. Although some argue that the scene has been in a state of saturation since AKB48 hit the motherlode in 2009, new talents continue to sprout. Recent years have seen major record labels getting involved too, making performances slicker and audience applause louder.

And it’s not only pop groups reaching idol status. Take idol group Babymetal, for example.

The members are all girls between 14 and 16 who combine speedy guitar riffs with thick bass, synths and drum beats for prog rockstyle melodies, accompanied by meaningless lyrics that actually sound quite appropriate when sung by the band’s teen members. The atmosphere at their gigs is on par with any hard-rock concert. Then there are indie

Hard rock idols Babymetal and Izukoneko (left) turn the idol stereotype on its head

Music

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JESSY LANZA: THE FUTURE OF FUTURE R&B Genuine word-of-mouth buzz is a precious commodity, but this Canadian singer’s name was whispered more last year than those ‘Star Wars Episode VII’ rumours about Benedict Cumberbatch. A graduate in jazz and a music teacher in her hometown of Ontario, Canada, Lanza put her encyclopedic knowledge of R&B to stunning use on her breathtaking debut LP ‘Pull My Hair Back’.

Like a woozier Jessie Ware or a less arch Grimes, her crystalline vocals and deal-with-it sense of sexuality should make J-Lan’s name go from whispered to roared over 2014. Oliver Keens Key track: ‘Kathy Lee’

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COURTNEY BARNETT: LIKE A YOUNG, FEMALE, AUSTRALIAN KURT VILE – BUT FUNNIER Think nothing can touch you when you’re 25? Not so for panic attack-sufferer Courtney Barnett, who hyperventilates while gardening at her home in Melbourne. At least her strained, stoner existence makes for some fine charming indie-rock yarns (that last episode crops up on the excellent ‘Avant Gardener’), accompanied by lazily brilliant guitar riffs and delivered in Barnett’s half-awake purr. After last year’s ‘A Sea of Split Peas’ double EP, we’re sure that 2014 will bring plenty more wit and wist. Jonny Ensall Key track: ‘History Eraser’

10

to watch in 2014

LOCAL ACT

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DOTSUI TARUNEN: CRAZY CROWD-PLEASERS Tokyo’s most OTT punk band was formed in 2007 and boasts countless YouTube videos and riotous live shows that keep their young audience coming back for more. Their latest album, released in March 2014, was a painstaking effort on their part but the result is an unbelievable 6008 tracks! Watch them on a night you’re feeling daring and unpredictable.

Kunihiro Miki Key track: ‘Boys on the Rap’

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LOCAL ACT

ATSUHIRO ITO: THE LUKE SKYWALKER OF MUSIC This improvising artist has actually been around since the late ’90s when he began experimenting with sound performances and created his own personal instrument, the optron – made even cooler by the fact it’s reminiscent of a Jedi laser sword. To ‘play’ it, he plugs the lightsaber into various effects pedals. These days, his solo approach to performing is more like contemporary art, but in March you can see him playing the optron on stage with three musical outfits: ‘extreme optical noise core band’ Optrum; renowned German electronic musician Carsten Nicolai; and artists from the Japanese hip-hop label Black Smoker. Kunihiro Miki Key track: Sony Walkman Commercial (Atsuhiro Ito & Fuyuki Yamakawa) 64 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

ICHIKO AOBA: ANGELIC SONGBIRD Although barely into her twenties, this singer-songwriter has been charming audiences with her classical guitar work and tranquil soprano voice since debuting in 2010. Music execs quickly sat up and took notice of her talent – she has even attracted the attention of heavyweights such as Ryuichi Sakamoto, Harry Hosono and Keigo Oyamada. Last year she brought out her fourth album, ‘O’ and you can catch one of her national tour shows throughout 2014. Kunihiro Miki Key track: ‘Tooi Akogare’

LOCAL ACT

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TELEMAN: ODDBALL POP THAT’S ALREADY SWAYED SUEDE Plenty of bands have indie-rock skeletons in their closets, though that doesn’t mean they can’t start anew, and be genuinely great. Teleman have history as another group: three of them used to strum for middling Reading crew Pete And The Pirates. Now, however, they’ve shed the spiky guitars and have hit upon a more eccentric, driving and elastic take on indie whimsy, with songs that tend to stick firmly in your head. Fans include Suede guitarist Bernard Butler, who likes them so much he produced their upcoming debut album. James Manning Key track: ‘Steam Train Girl’

Don’t let the year skip by without getting in touch with these new or renewed acts, hand-picked by the global Time Out Music Team

MUTUAL BENEFIT: DANNY DORSA; FKA TWIGS: JAMIE JAMES MEDINA

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FEBB: JAPANESE HIP-HOP AT ITS BEST This DJ, rapper and trackmaker leapt into the limelight in 2013 when he debuted as lead for the group Flashbacks at the age of 16. He’s now gone solo, with his first album released in January this year, and has been described as the ‘best Japanese rapper of LOCAL the last 10 years’. His skill ACT and style has attracted attention from beyond the hip-hop scene too and he’s become a poster boy for prodigies. His DJing skills are also pretty impressive and he’s performed at underground events, mega clubs and on video streaming site www.dommune.com.

Kunihiro Miki Key track: ‘No. Musik’

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MUTUAL BENEFIT: LOG CABIN MUSIC FOR BEARD WEARERS AND ADMIRERS Mutual Benefit is Jordan Lee, a songwriter who produces tender, generous and richly orchestrated tunes, and who is undoubtedly the new star of the US alt folk movement. Last year’s debut album, ‘Love’s Crushing Diamond’, had the same, ‘Whoa – where did that come from?’ sense of awestruck enjoyment attached to it as Bon Iver’s seminal ‘For Emma, Forever Ago’ LP. It also shared much of that record’s sense of wonder at the vastness of the whole wide world, and quivering anticipation at the sheer range of emotions that can be bestowed upon the humble singer-songwriter. Rousingly beautiful.

Jonny Ensall Key track: ‘Advanced Falconry’

LOCAL ACT

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OKAMOTO’S: ENERGYPACKED ART ROCK Named after abstract artist Taro Okamoto and taking inspiration from the Ramones, these rock ’n’ rollers turn back the clock with their fresh blend of psychedelic garage rock. They made their debut in 2009 and, amazingly, performed the following year at South

by Southwest (SXSW) in Texas. They’ve just released their fifth album, ‘Let It V’.

Probably the most energetic band in the country right now. Kunihiro Miki Key track: ‘Love Song’

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FKA TWIGS: TRIP-HOP IN SLOW-MO To say that FKA Twigs made waves with her video for ‘Water Me’ is a bit cheesy, but we can’t resist. The London singersongwriter garnered as much attention for her clips – gorgeous, challenging and at times outright disturbing – as for her pragmatically named EP2, released on influential London imprint Young Turks in September 2013. Her debut LP is expected to surface this year, and we can’t wait to hear what this dynamic young artist has in store. Kristen Zwicker Key track: ‘Water Me’ For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 65

Nightlife

Nightlife

Some like it rock

There are many layers to the allure of Kabukicho, and you might be surprised to discover that old-school rock is one of them. Here’s where to go when you’re craving Led Zeppelin.

Words Annemarie Luck

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ften referred to as Tokyo’s red-light district, Shinjuku’s infamous suburb of Kabukicho has something of a seedy reputation. Although it’s not ‘red light’ in the way, say, Amsterdam’s notorious brothel scene is, it is peppered with host and hostess bars, love hotels and yakuza members, who allegedly control hundreds of businesses in the area.

To walk the streets at night gives one a very stereotypical view of Tokyo – bright billboards shout from every corner; endless rows of stores, bars and restaurants line the streets; eccentric fashion abounds; and very pretty Japanese boys hurry by, most likely making their way to their nightly business of showering single women with champagne and compliments. So it’s interesting to know that the area was once a swamp that was developed into a quiet residential area after

the Meiji era. The bombing of Tokyo in World War II saw the area being completely destroyed, and after the war there were plans to build a kabuki theatre here, hence the name. Although the theatre never materialised, rows of eateries were developed during the ’60s and slowly it turned into the capital’s largest entertainment district – and Asia’s largest red-light district.

But there is more to ‘The Sleepless Town’ than sex and yakuza.

There’s also rock ’n’ roll. And satisfying the rock subculture’s nostalgia for a bygone era is a host of authentic prog-rock bars that look and sound the part. You can rest assured there’s no Bieber here.

I want to live in the ’80s Crawdaddy Club is like a time machine - even owner Mikiya Miyamoto (above) looks like he just stepped out of an Iron Maiden music video. Top: Gravity’s moody blues

66 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

GRAVITY With moody indigo lighting, a stage set with drums and keyboard, the owner’s 50-odd personal guitar collection displayed on the walls,

IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

You can rest assured there’s no Bieber here

and even a Picasso print or two, this out-of-sight bar attracts ’80s music lovers and mingling singles.

Opened seven years ago by 33-yearold Nobuyoshi Doi, Gravity favours hard rock – although the occasional Michael Jackson track has been known to creep in – and hosts bimonthly live band events. It’s a little off the beaten path – the only bar on our list that’s in Nishi-Shinjuku as opposed to Kabukicho, and a bit of a walk from Shinjuku Station – but that’s the way Doi wants it, saying he likes the fact that his bar has become known in rock circles primarily through word of mouth.

Seiwa Building 2F, 7-4-9 Shinjuku, Nishi-Shinjuku. 03 3366 6669. for. fem.jp/gravity. 6pm-2am Mon-Sat, 6pm-12am Sun & pub hol.

Cover charge ¥700.

CRAWDADDY CLUB Long-haired, guitarplaying Mikiya Miyamoto fits the part as owner of this live music bar.

He opened it in 2003, choosing Shinjuku because it’s a ‘core area’ for the rock genre and focuses on British rock from the ’70s and ’80s. His personal favourite is Led Zeppelin – notice the Zeppelin incense and red wine on show at the bar – but the bands that play here do a mix of covers as well as original Japanese rock. Find a seat at the bar or at one of the tables that line the wallspace in front of the stage and enjoy a snack dinner while the band plays from 7pm to 9.30pm (on weekends), after which you are free to request your favourite song from the rows of CDs lining the walls. At the end of every month the club holds ‘Furu-ten Night’, when the music is turned up full volume for a night of total rock immersion.

K Building B1F, 2-28-15 Kabukicho, Shinjuku. 03 5155 5253. sound. jp/crawdaddy.

7pm-2am Tue-Fri, 7pm-12pm Sat, Sun & pub hol. Cover charge ¥1,000.

HAMMOND ORGASM This is one of those bars you’d never find unless someone told you it existed, although funnily enough the owners were in the process of making a sign to go outside when we visited. It’s a small space upstairs in a nondescript building, and its tiny size and haphazard interior – which includes an organ, piano and drum set squeezed into one corner – give it an intimate atmosphere. Owners George and Atsuko Oya are big fans of Okinawan rock music, which they say has a special quality to it, and if the album covers displayed on every surface are anything to go by (Keith

Emerson, Lenny Dee, Attila, Miklagard), you won’t hear the standard rock set during a night spent at Hammond Orgasm. You might even be treated to George playing some classical piano.

Yashio Assembly Hall 4F unit B2, 2-388 Kabukicho, Shinjuku. 03 6273 9877. progbar.jp. 6pm-5am daily.

Cover charge ¥1,000.

ROCK’N KITCHEN JANIS Janis Joplin fans will feel right at home at this cosy spot opened in 2011 by former professional singer Ruby who puts Joplin at the top of her favourite-artist list and so dedicates much of the wall space and set list to the raspy-voiced performer. You’ll find Ruby behind the bar serving delicious omurice and ¥500 shots of Southern Comfort (Joplin’s favourite tipple), and even a bit of relationship advice should you be in need. Besides Joplin, the music ranges from hard to pop rock, and there are guitars in the corner that

you’re welcome to pick up for an impromptu ‘performance’.

Nakayoshi Bldg. 2F, 1-4-12 Kabukicho, Shinjuku. 03 6233 8215.

6pm-1am (closed Sun & pub hol).

Cover charge ¥1,500.

HIMAWARI BAR Here’s where things get really interesting. If you haven’t tried karaoke in Japan, this should be your first port of call. Not only do you get to choose tracks like Journey’s ‘Don’t Stop Believin’, but the owners, Takuya and Mimi Tachibana, play live guitar and saxophone with you while you sing. With four big TV screens dotted around the room, guitars stacked randomly, black-curtained walls and artworks by customers hung up in any available space, Himawari feels more like a recording studio than a bar. Fridays and Saturdays are busiest, with the bar staying open until 7am (or later if the mood dictates), and you’ll be mixing with pro wrestlers, manga artists and motor sports fans.

5F-B, 1-4-12 Kabukicho, Shinjuku.

03 3207 5292. tinyurl/TOThimawari.

7.30pm-7am (closed Tues). Cover charge ¥3,000.

Don’t go breakin’ my heart You can also choose more upbeat karaoke songs at Himawari Bar. Above, from top: Rock’n Kitchen Janis, Hammond Orgasm

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Promotional feature

Only inTokyo LOCAL INSIGHT

Robo tackle Ili Saarinen gets up close and personal with a pair of ’bots and waves his glowsticks like he just don’t care (left)

Even the neon-lit maze that is Shinjuku’s Kabukicho entertainment district cannot possibly prepare you for what awaits at Robot Restaurant. Ili Saarinen enters the madness

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glittering combination of over-the-top luxury, mechanical monstrosities and bikini babes, this unique establishment (allegedly built at a cost of ¥10 billion) has become one of Tokyo’s most talkedabout spots – no mean feat in a city that is hardly lacking in jaw-dropping entertainment. I went along to see just what all the fuss is about, and the robot action hit me from the minute I arrived. It began with a welcome by a Power Rangers (or is it Daft Punk?) inspired band playing evergreens while massive girl-borgs roamed the dance floor. And it only got crazier from there…

THE SHOW Always wanted to see a Predator-style space warrior get crushed by a giant mechanical shark, or see an authentic net launcher in action? These are only a few of the wonders that took place during the hour-long show, which features everything from aggressive taiko drumming to move-busting machinery and motorcycle fighting, all ‘narrated’ on huge LED screens that line the show area.

THE LOUNGE Arriving early? Charge up for the main event at the impressive upstairs lounge, complete with decor that’s more Vegas than Tokyo, very affordable drinks, your personal robot dinosaur, and all-gold dictator-style washrooms.

Bring this issue of Time MAKE A BOOKING Out Tokyo magazine Robot Restaurant is open for three shows daily (four on with you to Robot Saturdays), starting at 6.40pm, 8.20pm and 10pm.

Make a reservation a couple of days in advance by calling Restaurant and get ¥1,000 off the number below between 9am and 10pm. The ¥6,000 your bill. entrance fee includes a light meal and a drink, while beer and other alcoholic beverages are available for purchase before and during the show. Note that show contents are changed every few months.

Shinjuku Robot Bldg B2F, 1-7-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku. 03 3200 5500. www.shinjuku-robot.com. 6pm-11pm daily.

IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

THE ROBOTS The iconic ladybots are only the beginning – you can expect appearances by the friendly Real Steel-style King Robota Brothers, machine-powered mammals, and surprisingly smooth dancing robos shaking it to moderately recent club hits. Towards the end of the show, you’ll get a chance to pose for pictures with the robots.

THE GIRLS The adorable and multi-talented girls of Robot Restaurant are just as comfortable fighting off alien invaders as they are doing Dreamgirls impressions. On-duty performers are introduced one by one during every show.

bar. Here are five spots, all with no cover charge, that will make you want to stay the night.

BONOBO This experimental DJ bar, tucked away in the area between Sendagaya, Harajuku and Gaien, has a distinct underground feel to it. It boasts high-grade audio equipment (breathtaking even for audiophiles), an interior reminiscent of the caves of Cappadocia and a music-loving crowd. Tune-wise, they play a wide range from house music to jazz and deep electro.

There is also a Japanese-style tatami space on the second floor, which acts as a kind of chill room.

2-23-4 Jingumae, Shibuya.

03 6804 5542. bonobo.jp.

Harajuku Station. Times vary.

There’s something about a DJ That guy spinning tunes in the corner has a special kind of power. Track down your favourite with our pick of five top DJ bars. Words Ryo Harada

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DJ can turn a humdrum Friday night into one that stays in your step for days. But there’s a fine line between one who ‘saves your life’ and one who makes you want to get your coat. Plus, in Tokyo, we have the added problem of that pesky fueiho law (see ‘Tokyo Update’ on page 6), which has been bad news for the nightclub industry. Filling the gap are small-scale clubs and bars that are attracting crowds with no entrance fee and DJs tailoring their set towards a core audience. Unlike the party-hard mega clubs, these more low-key spots score added points for high quality sound systems that make even audio geeks sit up and take notice. So no more nights spent chasing the music from bar to

BAR MUSIC Although it has become quite common for cafés and bars in Tokyo to feature lounge space and live DJs, Bar Music was one of the pioneers.

It’s owned by Tomoaki Nakamura, who is well-known as a songwriter and the DJ who introduced Brazilian music to the Tokyo club scene. It features jazz and Brazilian music, along with a selection of wine, beer and coffee. On certain nights you’ll find Japanese trackmaker and music connoisseur Calm behind the decks.

Ideal if you’re looking for a place to enjoy a relaxed pint and good music.

5F, 1-6-7 Dogenzaka, Shibuya.

03 6416 3307. www.musicaanossa. com/bar_music/. Shibuya Station.

6pm-midnight (closed Sun & pub hol).

ZUBAR Midway between Ebisu and Shibuya, Zubar is a hideaway that features different music every day, including techno, jazz, disco and rock. It’s more of a bar than a dance club and on the second floor you’ll find a zashiki-style (floor seating) space with tatami mats and traditional chabudai (shortlegged) tables, making it a good option for parties of two or three people. If you’re lucky you might end up catching a guerilla DJ show, like the one hosted by British dub and EDM producer Adrian Sherwood when he visited Japan recently.

2-24-1 Higashi, Shibuya.

03 5774 4708. www.zubar.jp. Ebisu, Shibuya Stations. Times vary.

OIRAN Run by lyricist/DJ Venus Kawamura Yuki and situated at the entrance of Maruyama-cho, near to big-

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Nightlife

Clockwise from this picture: Bonobo, Oiran, Oath, Zubar, Bar Music

OATH The Tokyo mecca of the house DJ scene is located just behind Aoyama Gakuin University and offers drinks for ¥500 and a highquality sound system powered with subwoofer, so the dancefloor is always packed with young foreigners.

With a closing time of 8am on weekends, it caters for those with club stamina – a good place to end the night after visiting other clubs in Shibuya (such as Koara and Air).

DJs include deep house stars like Masanori Ikeda, who play techno and dance classics. On the basement level you’ll find the bar Tunnel, for tequila interludes, if you will.

Aoyama Bldg. 1F, 4-5-9 Shibuya.

03 5888 5847. bar-oath.com.

Shibuya Station. 9pm-5pm Mon-Thu, 9pm-8am Fri-Sat.

name clubs Womb and Asia, this bar features a distinctive mood of Japonism. The ground floor is an all-standing bar while the second floor has seating. A good spot for pre-club drinks.

2-22-6 Dogenzaka, Shibuya.

03 5456 8782. tinyurl.com/TOToiran.

Shibuya Station. 6pm till late.

Film Movies in the sky like diamonds As the weather warms up, escape to the rooftops for a unique film-viewing experience. Nick Narigon takes a look at the outdoor, up-high cinema trend

2014’S MUSTWATCH FILMS

New heights Get starryeyed in Tokyo

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ooftop bars, gardens and even golf courses can be found perched on top of buildings in space-shy Tokyo. So why not movie theatres too? The cinema, after all, has always symbolised escape from the real world. As spring shifts into summer, sky-high film screenings pop up all over Tokyo, offering respite from the cramped, hot city.

The aim of rooftop cinema organisers is not only to provide a sanctuary for city dwellers, but to pair film with location, kind of how a sommelier might pair a merlot with a sirloin steak. For example, guerilla film outfit Kino Iglu – which has hosted films outdoors, in a tunnel, and even on an uninhabited island – is in the throws of planning a screening of the 2008 tightrope documentary ‘Man on Wire’ on two adjacent rooftops. While their 2014 schedule has not yet been finalised, you can look forward to a similar line-up to last year when they organised rooftop film events in every corner of Japan, including atop a retro printing plant in Akita Prefecture.

They held rooftop screenings west of Tokyo at the nine-storey Lumine

Tachikawa, which features the Sky Garden Coterie and an outdoor futsal court, and at the nine-storey Lumine building north of Tokyo in Kitasenju. They also held a screening on the roof of the Takashimaya building in Setagaya.

The rooftop terrace of Claska store complex and hotel in Meguro is another hotspot for film screenings.

At the top of the eight-storey designer

The aim of organisers is to pair film with location

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hotel lies a creative space with a vast view of Tokyo (even Mount Fuji shows herself on very clear days). The space is predominantly used by art studios and for photo and film shoots, but the hotel began holding rooftop cinema events here in 2009. With a capacity of 100, the screenings are held every year between July and August, selecting three films to be shown over three days.

Trendy department store Ikebukuro Parco holds free movie screenings too – last year showing classics such as ‘(500) Days of Summer’, the animated movie ‘Summer Wars’, ‘Trainspotting’ and the Japanese zombie romance film ‘Warm Bodies’.

Also look out for more independent groups such as Rooftop Cinema, who often pair their screenings with flea markets and home-cooked dinners.

Kino Iglu: kinoiglu.cocolog-nifty. com (only available in Japanese).

Claska: 1-3-18 Chuo-cho, Meguro. www.claska.com/en.

Parco Ikebukuro: 1-28-2 MinamiIkebukuro, Toshima. www.parco.co.jp.

Rooftop Cinema: midori.so.

For upcoming events and movie reviews see timeout.com/tokyo

THE REMAKE Godzilla Let’s face it, Roland Emmerich’s 1998 reboot of the Japanese monster series didn’t exactly set the world on fire (in either sense). So here’s a chance to get back to the roots of what Godzilla is all about: less chatty-chatty, more smashy-smashy.

THE THRILLER Gone Girl Director David Fincher (‘The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo’, ‘Benjamin Button’) adapts Gillian Flynn’s rip-roaring novel in which a husband (Ben Affleck) goes in search of his missing wife (Rosamund Pike), and turns up a lot more than he bargained for.

THE (CRAZY) SCI-FI Jupiter Ascending A new spin on the old ‘ordinary Joe discovers they’re the saviour of the galaxy’ idea. This time, Jupiter Jones (Mila Kunis) is a Russian janitor who turns out to be the Queen of the Universe for some reason. Yes, it sounds silly, but if Cloud Atlas proved anything it’s that the Wachowskis can approach ludicrous material with a straight face and make it magnificently entertaining.

THE FANTASY NOIR How to Catch a Monster Ryan Gosling has proven his mettle as an actor, so we’re keen to see what he does with his directorial debut in which a single mother (Christina Hendricks) is led into a fantasy underworld while her son (Iain De Caestecker) discovers the road to an underwater utopia. Believe it!

MAIN IMAGE: MARTIN HOLTKAMP; ROOFTOP CINEMA IMAGES: COURTESY OF CLASKA HOTEL; WHEN MARNIE WAS THERE: © 2014 GNDHDDTK

Film

THE ANIME When Marnie Was There We always get excited when Studio Ghibli announces a new film. This time they’re adapting Joan G Robinson’s classic English children’s novel ‘When Marnie Was There’, which tells the story of misfit Anna who befriends a strange (read: ghostly) little girl called Marnie.

Due for release this summer.

Travel & Hotels Hanami hunt

THE RELAXED HUNT: SHINJUKU GYOEN Here things are a bit more subdued.

Alcohol is not allowed, security guards check bags at the gate and there is a ¥200 fee to keep out the riff-raff. This does mean that you’ll probably be strolling alongside most of Tokyo’s senior citizen population (and be elbowed aside by one of them fighting for the perfect photo) but with 1,500 cherry trees it is well worth the trip. This is possibly Tokyo’s most beautiful green space, complete with teahouse for thirsty explorers.

11 Naitocho, Shinjuku (ShinjukuGyoenmae, Shinjuku Stations).

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he sakura, or cherry blossom, is revered in Japan not only for its elegance but also for its impermanence. As spring arrives, Tokyo is awash with the delicate pink and white blossoms for little more than a week before the ground is littered with the fallen petals. This fleeting existence is considered a metaphor for life, which should be cherished before it’s gone. Tens of thousands of visitors are expected to swarm to Tokyo for the holiday weekend of March 21-23 (last year the cherry blossoms were in full bloom by March 20), though generally hanami season begins late March to early April. Hunting down the perfect location to enjoy a peaceful, or wildly rambunctious, hanami experience can be a tad overwhelming, which is why we’ve done it for you…

The sakura trail You don’t have to go far to find the cherry blossoms, and some of the prettiest spots are Roppongi Hills (bottom) and Shinjuku Gyoen (opposite, top)

THE PARTY HUNT: UENO PARK AND YOYOGI PARK With more than 1,000 cherry trees lining its walkways, Ueno Park is the Bourbon Street of hanami season.

Expect the park to be packed elbowto-elbow with inebriated revellers who aren’t necessarily there to see the cherry blossoms, but to see and be seen. Kind of like a sorority mixer. Bring your blue tarp early if you want to ‘book’ a spot. Alternatively, join the hipsters at Yoyogi Park.

Thanks to the gathering throngs, cellphone service is spotty at best and the bathroom queues stretch to the National Stadium, so don’t be surprised if you stumble upon a young co-ed squatting behind a tree.

Ueno Park: 5-20 Ueno Koen, Taito (Ueno Station, park exit).

Yoyogi Park: 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizounocho, Shibuya (Harajuku, Meiji-Jingumae, Yoyogi-Koen Stations).

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THE SKIFF HUNT: CHIDORIGAFUCHI Visited by more than one million people every year, Chidorigafuchi Park offers a one-of-a-kind hanami experience. Enthusiasts can rent a paddle boat at the refurbished boathouse and drift along the moat adjacent to the Imperial Palace. With the trees lit up at night, seafarers can float through a magical tunnel of illuminated sakura. The park’s Yoshino cherry trees were originally a gift from British diplomat Ernest Satow, who planted them here as a gift to the people of Tokyo.

1-2 Kojimachi, Chiyoda (Hanzomon Station, exit 3). Boat rental ¥800 for 30 mins.

THE TWILIGHT HUNT: RIKUGIEN GARDENS North of Tokyo in the Komagome area, Rikugien Garden is a pleasant traditional Japanese garden that stays open until 9pm. The weeping cherry blossoms are illuminated with floodlights so visitors can enjoy yozakura (night sakura). The blossoms here bloom a few days earlier than most parks, so it’s worth stopping by before the crowds descend.

6 Honkomagome, Bunkyo (Komagome Station).

THE ROMANTIC HUNT: KIYOSUMI GARDENS This little spot is on the east side of the Sumida River. An artificial pond, hill and river were built during the Meiji period to entertain employees and guests of the Mitsubishi Corporation. Today couples and small groups enjoy this tranquil park, which provides numerous benches parked beneath the cherry trees.

3-9 Kiyosumi, Koto (KiyosumiShirakawa Station).

TOP AND ABOVE FAR LEFT: LUKASZ PALKA; ABOVE LEFT: CHERRY5926/PIXTA; LEFT: NICK NARIGON

Travel & Hotels

With cherry blossom season comes a vibrant change in Tokyo’s urban landscape as pockets of wooded oases explode with colour and tourists.

Nick Narigon tracks the top viewing spots

THE WEEKEND HUNT

See the sakura outside of Tokyo and enjoy a mini getaway while you’re at it THE HISTORIC HUNT: KAMAKURA Enjoy a daytrip to view the 300 cherry trees at Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine in Kamakura. The tree-lined approach that leads from the station to the shrine is one of Kamakura’s most popular hanami spots. While sightseers can escape Tokyo, don’t expect to escape the crowds as thousands flock to this ancient capital city.

2-1-31 Yukinoshita, Kamakura, Kanagawa (Kamakura Station, approx. 50 mins from Tokyo).

4015-1 Yanokuchi, Inagi (KeioYomiuri-Land Station).

THE BICYCLE HUNT: INOKASHIRA PARK To see the cherry blossoms on two wheels, head out from Hamadayama and bike along the Kanda River to Inokashira Park in Kichijoji. While the river itself features patches of sakura, Inokashira Park is a favourite place for hanami, especially among young families.

With a petting zoo, boats to paddle around the spring-fed pond and the softserve ice cream at Mizuki, the 250 cherry trees aren’t the only drawcard.

1-18-31 Gotenyama, Musashino (Kichijoji Station, park exit, InokashiraKoen Station).

The Bandit rollercoaster set the record for the fastest hanami experience

TOP AND BOTTOM LEFT: NICK NARIGON; TOP RIGHT: COURTESY OF ODAWARA CITY TOURISM SECTION

THE ADVENTURE HUNT: YOMIURI LAND Not everybody gets to experience hanami from a roller coaster. Yomiuri Land has no less than 1,000 cherry trees and is still unheralded.

Relatively few people attend the amusement park for the sakura despite the fact the Bandit roller coaster set the record for the fastest hanami experience.

For more sakura viewing spots, go to timeout.com/tokyo

THE HIKERS’ HUNT: MT KOBO Strap on your hiking boots and head out to Mt Kobo, just an hour southwest from Shinjuku. This twoand-a-half hour hike to the peak (235m) can be strenuous, but the view is worth the trouble. Mount Fuji and Sagami Bay are visible from the sakura-ringed summit.

Hadano, Kanagawa (30-min walk from Hadano Station, approx. 80 mins from Tokyo).

Stay overnight Jinya Ryokan offers a soothing onsen. Guest houses from ¥40,950 per night.

2-8-24 Tsurumaki-Kita, Hadano, Kanagawa. 0463 77 1300. www. jinya-ryokan.jp.

THE MEDIEVAL HUNT: ODAWARA CASTLE This is one of the best hanami spots in Japan with 350 cherry trees surrounding the main keep and moat. Originally built in the 15th century, the reconstructed castle is a refurbishment of the former home of the prestigious Hojo family.

Don’t miss the Sakura Festival (late March/early April), which features traditional dance and music.

6-1 Jonai, Odawara, Kanagawa (Odawara Station: Tokaido line, approx. 100 mins from Tokyo; JR Tokaido Shinkansen, approx. 35 mins from Tokyo).

Stay overnight Just 20 minutes from the castle by train, Yumoto Fujiya Hotel offers a comfortable bed for those looking to extend their visit.

Rooms from ¥7,500 per night.

256-1 Yumoto, Hakonemachi, Ashigarashimo, Kanagawa.

0460 85 6111. www.yumotofujiya.jp.

THE LATE BLOOMER HUNT: HAKONE If you missed hanami season in Tokyo, or if you just didn’t get your fill, take the train to Hakone where the cherry blossoms bloom a week or two later. Stroll down the Hayakawa River bank, stop by Gora Park or head over to Hakone-en on the eastern shore of Lake Ashinoko. The trees here are over 80 years old and the Sakura Festival starts in early April. Hakone-Yumoto Station (take the Odakyu line’s ‘Romance Car’ from Shinjuku Station, approx. 85 mins from Tokyo).

Stay overnight Try the historic rooms of Mikawaya Ryokan, from ¥17,500 per person.

503 Kowakidani, Hakone, Ashigarashimo, Kanagawa. 0460 82 2231. www.hakone-mikawaya.com.

T H E A R T Y H U N T:

TAKESHI HANZAWA ‘HI-LITE’ EXHIBITION Take a stroll along Meguro River – which winds its way through Nakameguro and is lined with about 800 cherry trees – and end up at Takeshi Hanzawa’s ‘Hi-Lite’ exhibition. The artist plans to use the exhibition space like a garden, with sakura motifs throughout.

The exhibition will showcase images from his ‘Hi-Lite’ series, which documents the array of abandoned cars found all over Japan. He’ll be giving a talk on April 5, too.

‘Takeshi Hanzawa: Hi-Lite’: Mar 29-Apr 13, 104 Rmond (Sakamoto Bldg Garage, 1-6-4 Ohashi, Meguro). 11am-8pm. www.takeshihanzawa.com.

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Travel & Hotels

THE SWANKY HUNT: ROPPONGI HILLS High-end shopping. Upscale restaurants. Five-star hotels.

Roppongi Hills is where the rich and richer spend their free time, and hanami season is no different. The garden behind Roppongi Hills Mori Tower claims 75 cherry blossoms and Keyakizaka Street (just behind the tower) is lined with sakura, all of which are illuminated at night.

6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station, exit 1).

Odawara Castle

Travel & Hotels

Ferried away

Somewhere over the ocean There’s Niijima, dolphins in Mikurashima (right) and a Godzilla statue on Izu Oshima (below). Bottom: Hop on a ferry to get there

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epending on who you ask, Japan has between four and 6,000 islands. The big four being, from north to south, Hokkaido, Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu. The thousands of others consist of a handful of well-known and highly populated chains such as Okinawa, the Izu Islands and, unbelievably, almost 1,000 islands in the Seto Inland Sea. Hopping on a ferry to one of these little pieces of paradise is a wonderful way

to explore Japan – and is also a cheaper, albeit slower, form of transport.

Despite the fact that many of Japan’s ferry services are modern and luxurious affairs, they have remained surprisingly off the radar for foreigners and locals alike – perhaps something to do with the latter’s passion for getting from A to B in the fastest possible time. Nowadays, the majority do make relatively short, high-speed crossings all over the archipelago, while several that depart Tokyo on a daily or weekly basis offer a combination of affordable and

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relaxed long-distance travel. Whether you’re looking for beaches (with actual waves), the chance to dive with dolphins, or walk a pilgrim trail, there’s a ferry to take you there.

SURFING, DOLPHIN DIVES AND EATING ASHITABA If the idea of a morning spent on one of the best surfing beaches in Japan (Niijima), or swimming with Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins (Mikurashima) whets your appetite for adventure, then head towards the Izu Island chain, which stretches from Izu Oshima in the north to Sofugan (Lot’s Wife). The nine main islands in the chain offer up some excellent swimming opportunities, regional delicacies such as the herb ashitaba (tomorrow’s leaf), and a local firewater that you should approach with caution (unless you want to spend the next day’s sailing hanging overboard). Life on these islands is so detached from Tokyo that it’s hard to believe you are technically still in the Japanese capital.

How to get there: Take one of the overnight Tokai Kisen ferries (www.

tokaikisen.co.jp/english/) from Takeshiba port near Hamamatsucho Station in central Tokyo. Two ferries, the Salvia Maru and the Camellia Maru, make runs between the islands almost daily. If you’re on a budget and don’t mind sleeping in a large communal tatami room, these are your best bets. Otherwise you can opt for a trio of high-speed jet ferries.

HOKKAIDO’S UNSPOILT BEAUTY Japan’s second largest island is known for its fascinating, untouched nature, and is a top destination for anyone living in or visiting the country. But if the thought of a cramped overnight bus or overpriced train journey has been putting you off making the trip, then we have good news. An overnight ferry offers a comfortable trip and will save you oodles of yen.

How to get there: Check out www. sunflower.co.jp/english/index.shtml

FROM TOP: Y.H-TO /PIXTA; TNKU/PIXTA; MARK BUCKTON; JAVA/PIXTA

Travel & Hotels

Travelling Japan? Skip the shinkansen and go island-hopping instead. Words Mark Buckton

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: SIHUZAHU/PIXTA; KAZENIFUKARETE/PIXTA; IJIN/PIXTA; JUN/PIXTA

for prices on the ferry from Oarai in Ibaraki Prefecture, north of Tokyo, to Tomakomai on the southern coast of Hokkaido.

Even though the departure point is a little out of Tokyo, the savings will more than make up for this.

The journey, on either the Sunflower Furano or the Sunflower Sapporo, takes roughly 19 hours.

It departs in the evening (times vary depending on the season) and arrives around lunchtime the following day. Most passengers are families returning to Hokkaido with their cars and looking to avoid excessive toll charges. On board, a range of sleeping options can be booked in advance, many right up to departure as few ferries ever really sell out. Note that in the summer months mass bookings of school parties can make things a little busier than usual.

Once you arrive in Hokkaido, head for the main ferry terminal and hop onto one of the waiting buses that will whizz you into Tomakomai within 20 minutes or so. If you’re going straight to Sapporo, the capital of Hokkaido, the train journey will take you about an hour. If you’re short on time, you won’t be missing out on much if you skip Tomakomai in favour of Sapporo as the latter is by far the better choice in terms of culture, history, restaurants and entertainment.

Also, signs in Tomakomai are limited

to Japanese, Russian, Korean and Chinese.

A PILGRIMAGE AND A DANCE FESTIVAL Shikoku is home to the world-renowned 88 Temple Pilgrimage (covering 1,200km and taking 30 to 60 days to complete) that begins in Tokushima, a bus ride from the port, and ends in Kagawa. Within the city limits are the ruins of an old castle, a museum dedicated to indigo dying – which made the city famous in the Edo era – and also a hall in which performances from the annual Awa Odori (dance) festival can be seen throughout the year. The festival itself takes place from August 12-15.

How to get there: Visit the Ocean Tokyu Ferry site www.otf.jp/ (Japanese only) for details of this long-distance ferry that links Tokyo with the city of Kitakyushu in Kyushu. It travels via Tokushima on the east coast of Shikoku before following a route through the beautiful Seto Inland Sea. It saves you one night’s accommodation if you’re travelling to Tokushima (19 hours of travel time) and two nights’ accommodation if you’re going to Kitakyushu (a day and a half travel time), and is a great way to see the coastal scenery along the way.

Beds and various dining options are available onboard – including frozen food from a vending machine (complete with a microwave to revive it, of course).

See the Awa Odori (dance) festival in Shikoku

From top: Try Hokkaido cuisine, enjoy udon in Kagawa, go on the 88 Temple Pilgrimage

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Getting Around

Travel tips Go budget sightseeing with the Seishun 18 Kippu

P

ublic transport in Tokyo is very convenient but the cost can add up if you’re sightseeing and travelling further afield. So it helps to know that three times a year, during school holidays, you can take advantage of the Seishun Juhachi Kippu – even though this translates as ‘Youth 18 Ticket’, you can purchase it no matter what year you were born. In theory, this discounted ticket lets you get from Tokyo as far as Kyushu, and any point inbetween, for as little as ¥2,300 per day.

What’s the deal? ¥11,500 gets you five days of

unlimited travel on most JR trains.

Simply purchase a ticket at any JR station (very small stations may not sell it) before you plan to travel and you’re good to go. The five days of travel don’t have to be consecutive and one day’s usage extends from midnight to midnight (although in Tokyo and Osaka it is valid up until the last train). The only JR trains you won’t be able to use it on are shinkansen (bullet trains), express and limited express trains, so you’ll be travelling on either local or rapid trains. You can also use it on the JR ferry to Miyajima.

Note that instead of passing through the automated gates at the station,

76 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

you will need to get your ticket stamped by the station staff. The only real snag is that the period of validity coincides with school holidays (read: busy trains). But the savings are worth it, especially if you’re travelling long distance.

Make the most of it If you’re travelling beyond Tokyo, plan an early start as travelling on a local train to places like Kyoto or Osaka will take around nine hours. More realistic for most are journeys of up to five or six hours, to places such as Nagano and Matsumoto, so that you can get in a few hours of sightseeing at your destination before an onward or return trip the next day.

If you’re looking to do a round trip in one day, make www.hyperdia.com/en your friend so you can stay on top of

Top tip All seats are reserved on board the Moonlight Nagara so be sure to book your ticket as early as possible – tickets go on sale one month ahead of departure and are far cheaper on the first day of sale.

When to buy Take advantage of the Seishun 18 Kippu during the following periods: Spring Until April 10 – ticket sales Until March 31.

Summer End July to end September.

Winter Early December to early January.

Please note that the summer and winter time periods are still being confirmed, so be sure to check this website for updated info: www.jreast. co.jp/e/pass/seishun18.html.

For more essential city info go to timeout.com/tokyo

WORDS: MARK BUCKTON. IMAGE: MIYUKI39/PIXTA

Getting Around

schedules and arrival and departure platforms.

Those heading west can catch an overnight Moonlight Nagara (rapid train) from Tokyo Station. Departure times vary but are usually just after 11pm, so if you first buy a ticket to Odawara, this will take you to just past midnight, and from there on you’ll get by on your Seishun 18 Kippu. You will arrive in the Chubu Tokai region at around 6am and from there be able to get as far west as Kumamoto in Kyushu just before midnight rolls around again (provided schedules hold and connections are met).

Going underground?

Welcometo tothe theworld’s world’smost mostefficient efficienttransport transport system Welcome

Getting Around Foryour yourfull, full,up-to-the-minute up-to-the-minuteguide guideto toTokyo Tokyovisit visit www.timeout.com/tokyo www.timeout.com/tokyo 77 77 For

Getting Around

Golden Week watch

What to do from April 29 to May 6 – for socialites and solitude seekers JOIN THE CROWD 1. Book a staycation If time and budget don’t allow for an out-of-town holiday, round up a group of friends for a mini break right here in Tokyo. Odaiba’s faux-Edo spa theme park, Oedo Onsen Monogatari, houses natural hot spring baths, open-air baths, saunas, restaurants and more.

2-6-3 Aomi, Koto. 03 5500 1126. tinyurl.com/ TOTonsen.

Getting Around

2. Shop in Harajuku Japan’s most crowded shopping destination gets even busier during this time, but the festive mood makes up for long queues. Various events take place in the area and help to keep shoppers entertained.

3. Go on a bargain hunt Yoyogi Park’s flea market, held this year on April 29 and May 6, features approximately 800 vendors, usually a range of mostly youthful car-boot lovers with a recycling bent, and is Tokyo’s hippest (and first official) flea market.

2-1 Yoyogi Kamizounocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTyoyogi.

4. Pack a picnic One of Tokyo’s most beautiful oases, Shinjuku Gyoen drops its ¥200 entrance fee on April 29. The park is split into a French formal, English landscape and Japanese garden, complete with a teahouse, and provides a stunning contrast to the surrounding high-rise landscape.

11 Naitocho, Shinjuku. tinyurl.com/TOTshinjukugyoen.

5. Walk the new Anime Street The new mecca of anime, Asagaya Anime Street, recently opened under the railway tracks between Asagaya and Koenji. Shops here specialise in everything from made-to-order cosplay costumes to all kinds of character-themed merchandise, and the street also houses motion capture studios and an exhibition space.

Under the railway between Asagaya and Koenji Station (JR Chiyoda line). tinyurl.com/ TOTanimestreet.

BEAT THE CROWD 1. Go Buddhist for a day Held on April 29, the annual Kohgen event stages around 40 workshops related to Buddhism, including yoga and a journey through a ‘near-death experience’.

4-7-35 Shiba-koen, Minato. 03 3432 1431. tinyurl. com/TOTkohgen.

2. Make a photo album Take time out to sort through your photos and then visit Fuji Film’s new store, Wonder Photo Shop, to print them directly from your smartphone. You can also take selfies in their photo studio and test the latest photo apps.

6-29-4 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 6427 9703. tinyurl. com/TOTwonderphoto.

3. Join the bicycle club The Palace Cycling Course runs from the north of Hibiya Park to the northern moat skirting the Imperial Palace. Every Sunday, 250 bikes are farmed out – take your pick from regular bicycles, kids’ bikes, tandems and baby trikes.

Pick up your bike next to the Kokyo-mae koban (police box), Nijubashimae Station, exit 2. 10am-3pm Sun. tinyurl.com/TOTpalacecycling.

4. Go fishing Ichigaya Fishing Centre offers a variety of packages for the inner city angler. It has two dedicated pools, one for amateurs and the other for more experienced fishermen. The catch is carp, and all fish are returned to the pond once your haul has been weighed.

1-1 Ichigaya Tamachi, Shinjuku. 03 3260 1324. tinyurl.com/TOTfishing.

5. Learn a new skill While everyone else is off finding the party, why not book a lesson in martial arts? Most private schools stay open during Golden Week. If kung fu appeals, try a class at Chien Wing Chun Kung Fu. Kato Building 6F, 8-18-3, Ginza, Chuo. 090 9966 7728. tinyurl.com/TOTkungfu.

78 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

5

Getting Around

4 4 3

2 3

5

2 1 FREE WI-FI!

From March 25, Tokyu Corporation is offering free Wi-Fi for foreign tourists in Shibuya. Present your passport at one of the following venues to receive your ID and password: Shibuya 109, Shibuya Hikarie, Tokyu Department Store Toyoko Store, Tokyu Department Store and Shibuya Station.

1

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 79

Come say konnichiwa at the…

Time Out Café & Diner

Missing us between issues? Come to our place and hang out!

T

he physical outpost of Time Out Tokyo brings a dash of cosmopolitan class to Ebisu – and it’s a great place to while away a few hours.

Housed in the upstairs floor of key live venue Liquidroom, the Time Out Café & Diner offers an ideal spot for lazy lunches, coffee sessions and meetings. The interior is styled like a New York loft eatery with skylights, exposed brickwork, an eclectic mix of seating and a large central table that’s ideal for bigger gatherings.

Order up some international food from the open-plan kitchen – specialities include the hearty pastrami sandwich and the mouthwatering Yatsugatake Premium Burger – and browse the library of Time Out books and magazines from around the globe. Alternatively, slurp a cappuccino, Chimay beer or cocktail, then check out the latest exhibition in the adjacent Kata gallery. And did we mention we have free Wi-Fi? Because we’re nice like that.

2F Liquidroom, 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya. 03 5774 0440. www.tinyurl.com/TOTcafe. Ebisu Station.

11.30am-11.30pm Mon-Thu, 11.30-5am Fri, 1pm-5am Sat, 1-10pm Sun & public hols.

Introducing Time Out Tokyo maps Keep us in your pocket to get more out of the city

You can now get your copy of Time Out Tokyo magazine delivered – we ship internationally too!

Please visit time-outtokyo.myshopify. com.

Pick up our maps and magazine at one of these venues: Stations: Shinjuku Station, Tokyo Metro Meiji-Jingumae Station, Tokyo Metro Roppongi Station, Tokyo Metro Shinjuku Station, Toei Oedo line Tochomae Station, Toei Oedo line Roppongi Station, Toei Oedo line Daimon Station, Toei Oedo line Tsukijishijo Station, Toei Oedo line Asakusa Station, Toei Asakusa line Daimon Station, Toei Asakusa line Tourist information centres: Tokyo Metropolitan Goverment Headquarters Shibuya Station Tourist Infomation Centre Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Centre Haneda Airport

R

egular Time Out readers will know about our popular series of free maps: pocket-sized guides to the multifarious delights this city has to offer. They’re hard to miss these days – as well as our popular ‘101 Things to Do in Shibuya’ edition (as featured on TV’s ‘Sekai Fushigi Hakken’, if we do say so ourselves), we’ve produced a special tie-in map with Roppongi Hills, gone for broke

with the latest: ‘88 Things to Do in Tokyo’, and launched ‘101 Things to do in Shinjuku’, all out now.

Each edition squeezes the best of the capital into a compact pamphlet, complete with city map. We’ve included everything from offbeat art galleries to otaku meccas, and from ancient shrines to hipster hangouts.

That’s not all, though. Download the Time Out Tokyo Map Viewer app for

80 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

iPhone and iPad, and you can bring up detailed maps and listings for all the places featured, simply by pointing your phone at the page. Plus, our ‘101 Things to Do in Nihonbashi’ has just arrived, out since March 2014. All maps are available to pick up at Time Out Café, Shibuya Station Tourist Information, Haneda and Narita Airports, or, even easier, to download online, if you go to: https://map.stores.jp/#!/.

Hotels that have Les Clefs d’Or Japan member concierge: ANA Intercontinental Tokyo The Peninsula Tokyo Palace Hotel Tokyo Park Hyatt Tokyo Grand Pacific Le Daiba Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel Grand Hyatt Tokyo Conrad Tokyo Hotel Okura Tokyo The Ritz Carlton Tokyo Tokyo Prince Hotel Park Tower Note: If you can’t find the map you’re looking for, this probably means we’ve temporarily run out of stock. Please be patient while we work on the next print run.

Please direct any advertising queries to sales@timeout.jp.

TIME OUT CAFÉ: KISA TOYOSHIMA; TIME OUT TOKYO MAPS: YASUHISA SHIMBO

Shops: Tokyu Hands Shibuya Daikanyama Tsutaya Books Tower Records Shibuya

Protecting the past?

The moat surrounding the Imperial Palace

Transcreating Tokyo

Cultural anthropologist Takeo Funabiki takes us on a tour of the city’s layered eras via Asakusa and the Imperial Palace

T

MAIN IMAGE: SATOSHI ASAKAWA. RUNNER IMAGE: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

o know the history of Tokyo, you need only remember two particular years: 1600 and 1868. 1600 was the year in which Tokugawa Ieyasu defeated his rival warlords at the Battle of Sekigahara, which marked the beginning of a new Japanese socio-political system, centred around Edo, which later became known as Tokyo. 1868 was the year in which Ieyasu’s Edo-based political system was replaced by a new, modern regime that restored imperial rule. The time before 1600 was the pre-Edo era. The Edo era lasted from 1600 to 1868, and modern Japan dates from 1868 to the present.

HOW ASAKUSA EMBODIES THE ERAS To demonstrate how the three different eras overlap, let’s look at Asakusa. This district is where nori (seaweed) was first produced, thanks to the area’s abundant natural resources that date from before the Edo period (this Asakusa nori is widely used for sushi).

Asakusa prospered during the Edo era, which saw the founding of the district’s famous Sensoji Temple. As Edo culture developed, the temple environs became a place of entertainment. Asakusa continued to develop as a thriving neighbourhood during the modern

era as people were attracted by its cinemas. But after the war Tokyo’s entertainment moved to areas like Shinjuku and Shibuya. Asakusa gradually became obsolete, but precisely because it was left behind as times changed, it exudes a nostalgic retro atmosphere. This has made it a popular destination for foreign tourists, to the extent that now, when you say Tokyo, they respond with ‘Asakusa’.

THE EMPTINESS OF THE IMPERIAL PALACE Turning to the Imperial Palace, we can again see the layers of Tokyo’s three eras. French critic Roland Barthes called the Imperial Palace ‘the empty centre’. True – there is an area in the middle of Tokyo, five kilometres in circumference, that is not used for anything and merely causes a hindrance to traffic.

Sure, the Imperial family lives there, but its scale is dozens of times larger than London’s Buckingham Palace, making it highly inefficient as a residence for just one family. However, I do not think most Japanese find this particularly odd.

That is because, as Mr Barthes likes to say, the Japanese people do not

think anything in particular about only one family living there because they regard the Imperial Palace itself as an emptiness, an absence.

If you stare intently to the other side, across the still water of the moat, there is an almost black hole-like place, a place that you can see but cannot see. This place is composed of the three elements of Tokyo – the nature that existed before Edo, the castle structure from the Edo period, and the residence of the Emperor of modern Japan. I particularly enjoy the seasonally changing landscape, stretching between the 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock points, where one can view the vast moat’s wide waters.

The moat protected the castle as a fortress during the Edo period, but as the need for fortifications has long since dissipated, the stone walls and moats are now in effect huge ruins, too big to break down. One could say that in the same way as Rome has relics like the Colosseum, Tokyo now too boasts a majestic relic. Ruins exist in any civilised city, increasing its historical depth. Although not reaching the heights of Kyoto just yet, Tokyo has started its journey as a city that mixes layers of old and new.

Asakusa now exudes a nostalgic retro atmosphere

VIST THE IMPERIAL PALACE As the Imperial family does live there, no tours are available but you can visit the surrounding park. See the whole area by circling the park: a five-kilometre running course, devoid of traffic lights, takes you all the way around. If you imagine the Imperial Palace periphery as a clock with hours positioned around it, you can look towards 10 o'clock to find a lush carpet of cherry blossom petals at Chidorigafuchi (‘cliff of 1,000 birds’) during the cherry blossom season. The Sakurada Gate, which sits at 6 o’clock, offers a show of magnificent golden leaves in autumn.

One never gets tired of this course as the landscape is so varied. Amazingly, you can even catch a whiff of the horses stabled within the Palace.

1-1 Chiyoda, Tokyo. 03 3213 1111. sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/english/index. html.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 81

You know you’re in Tokyo when…

F

There’s an amulet for your dog

Get shot by Cupid For: Love and marriage From: Tokyo Daijingu (Grand Shrine), 2-4-1 Fujimi, Chiyoda, Tokyo. Iidabashi Station.

Price: ¥700 With its lily of the valley design, this amulet is especially popular with women and considered a good charm for marriage. The two flowers on the amulet have bells attached to them and as the sound of the two bells jingling becomes one sound, a prayer for two hearts to join as one will be heard.

Erect a heavenly firewall For: Cybersecurity From: Kanda Myojin, 2-16-12 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda. Ochanomizu Station.

Price: ¥800 Stick this seal on your computer and enjoy improved protection from viruses, malware and spam, at a price no software can provide!

Customer complaints not accepted.

Protect your pooch For: Pets From: Ichigaya Kamegaoka Hachimangu, 15 Ichigaya-Hachimancho, Shinjuku. Ichigaya Station.

Price: ¥2,000 Ensure a long and happy life for your trusted animal companion with this capsule-style charm that doubles as an ID tag. Disaster-proofing your doggy can even mean a step-up in style – both gold and silver talismans are available.

Raise the grade

Ditch the Botox

For: Academic success From: Yushima Tenjin, 3-30-1 Yushima, Bunkyo.

Yushima Station.

Price: ¥800 All that studying not paying off? Shaped like a ‘randoseru’ backpack worn by Japan’s elementary schoolchildren, this charm will surely help your kid pick up a gold star or two. Comes in red and black.

For: Enhancing beauty From: Kanda Myojin, 2-16-12 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda. Ochanomizu Station.

Price: ¥800 Like a fountain of youth, this rabbit-themed amulet is also commonly worn by insecure estheticians, make-up artists and nail technicians. Has no effect on inner beauty.

In the next issue of Time Out Tokyo…

The Style Issue Who’s wearing it, making it and selling it

Summer lovin’ Go on a music festival odyssey (if you can stand the heat)

82 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Available across Tokyo from June 2014!

IMAGES: KISA TOYOSHIMA

Charm city

orget wishing upon a star. Just attach one of these omamori (charms) accessories to your backpack, phone, wallet or the like and you’ll be afforded luck and riches and love and safety in traffic. So they say. Usually, these elaborately decorated amulets offer umbrella protection, but you can also find ones that are more specific – you can even request to get one made just for you (or your pooch, if you feel he’s in some sort of danger). Pick up one of these curious Tokyo talismans from a temple or shrine near you.