Can Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai provide a change for good?
4 A PLACE OF POWER
How Hiroaki Miyata hopes his Expo 2025 pavilion can bring people from across the world together
Will autonomous buses signal a new direction for transport in Japan?
Can a single strand of hair show your stress levels?
The best things to do in Japan’s second city
How to make the most of Japan’s glorious northern island
How a new platform is helping visitors to experience Japan’s wild
How to fit in in Osaka, one of the country’s
Welcome to issue 10 of Unlock the Real Japan , a special collaboration between Nikkei Inc. and Time Out Tokyo created to help business leaders gain new insight into one of the most exciting countries on Earth. In Unlock you’ll find Nikkei Asia ’s renowned insight into the business world combined with Time Out Tokyo ’s knowledge of contemporary life in Japan, ensuring that visiting executives can experience all sides of life in the country.
This issue previews Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai. We start with Hiroaki Miyata, who has been entrusted with delivering one of the signature pavilions (p4), and find out about how self-driving buses will transport visitors around the Expo site (p6). We also guide you through the best things to do in the host city (p10) and how to fit in with our Osaka etiquette guide (p18). Elsewhere in the issue we have reports on a revolutionary new stress test (p8), an exciting adventure tourism platform (p16) and the highlights of Hokkaido, Japan’s northern gem (p14).
We hope you enjoy the issue.
Planned, produced and distributed by Nikkei Inc. Global Business
Edited by
Matthew Lee (Time Out Tokyo)
Rob Orchard (Time Out Tokyo)
Marcus Webb (Time Out Tokyo)
Designed by James Ladbury
Coordinated by Ili Saarinen (Time Out Tokyo/ORIGINAL Inc.)
Directed by Akiko Toya (Time Out Tokyo/ORIGINAL Inc.)
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A SPECIAL MAGAZINE BY N ikkei Asia
l A concept sketch for Miyata’s pavilion, “Better Co-Being”
Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai, Japan will feature eight signature themed pavilions. The organizers challenged their curators to aim high, bringing the most important ideas of our times to life in a physical space. Hiroaki Miyata, a data scientist, theorist of a communitybased future, and the Professor and Chair of the Department of Health Policy Management at the Faculty of Medicine at Keio University, was not one to shy away from the test. His project, which combines an open-plan pavilion with a forest containing unique artworks, will emphasize the importance of respecting and appreciating diverse forms of life in modern society. Visitors’ experiences will be tailored according to data they provide, creating a world in which all life forms coexist in harmony, but where
The challenge is to design experiences that move you regardless of who you are and where you come from
A PLACE OF power
When invited to curate one of the signature pavilions for Expo 2025, Hiroaki Miyata saw an opportunity to bring the world together in divided times. He discusses his ambitions with Io Kawauchi
everyone’s unique traits are valued. He discusses his vision for both the pavilion and a better future.
What are you trying to achieve with your pavilion?
The theme of my pavilion is “Better Co-Being,” which means living together consciously. The key question is, what
kind of future are we aiming for?
Reinventing how we live is a key theme in my thinking. Our current era is one of change and this transformation has progressed with the emergence of the internet, smartphones, and social media. These technologies have rewritten existing industries and created new data-based ones. We are entering a phase
where we are consciously creating new ways to live together.
How do the themes of the wider Expo tie in with that thinking?
The central question at the Expo is about the kind of future that can be envisioned when people from all over the world gather together. I believe that by each country [at Expo 2025] bringing and sharing its own vision of the future, being influenced by the visions of others, and discussing them, we can move toward a better future as a species.
How does that thinking translate into the architecture of your pavilion, without walls or a roof?
The building is made of stainless steel, but it floats like a cloud on this grid. It’s very strange, like the space itself is melting away, being sucked into the sky. As we’re all living under the same sky, I thought it would be best to have people draw their own connections, so I created a seamless space with a forest at the center of the Expo. My discussions with the two members of [the architectural group] SANAA, made me realize that traditional architecture tends toward delineated spaces, clear boundaries between ownership and non-ownership, and demonstrations of a certain kind of
power. But this time we are doing things differently.
How did you feel when you saw the finished building?
I actually didn’t think it would turn out this well until it was almost done [laughs]. It’s several times better than I imagined. When I first entered the structure, I didn’t feel intimidated, but rather as if I was floating—a feeling of openness. I have so much respect for the SANAA team, and I think they did a wonderful job.
Yuko Hasegawa, director of the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art in Kanazawa, serves as the pavilion’s artistic curator. Could you describe your collaborative relationship with her?
I’m working with Hasegawa not only on the pavilion, but also on the forest around it. So she and I will be discussing what kind of artists we want to feature and what we are going to create. We will be discussing these things in the context of art, but also in the context of history, society, and geopolitics, and ponder what kind of questions we should be asking today.
What role will the forest play?
Past Expos have all been based on placing an artificial object at the center, be it the Eiffel Tower, the Tower of the Sun in
Osaka or the Dubai Expo’s magnificent facade. This time, through our discussions with [architect and Expo 2025 site design producer] Sou Fujimoto, we decided to center an ecosystem rather than a specific man-made object. That’s because when we think about our future, we should not limit ourselves to human achievements and instead place our visions in the context of the global ecosystem. Part of our efforts to think about the future involve recreating a plant-based ecosystem at the Expo. We don’t want to transplant plants forcibly, but rather to start with what’s already at the site and grow this ecosystem from there. I hope to place works of art in the forest that will serve as a trigger for people to think about the future.
The experience for visitors will be tailored based on data such as age and fatigue level. Does this tie in with your idea of a society based on the sharing of data?
The pavilion should provide an experience that is connected to the future. Data is what’s behind it, and it supports people’s diverse experiences. Rather than having everyone dream the same dream and aim for a single goal, we want to highlight the fact that people have different values and interests, they react differently to things and exhibit different feelings, so the experiences we provide should take that into account. The challenge is to design experiences that stay with you and move you regardless of who you are and where you come from.
What can Japan contribute to the conversation over sustainability, which will be a major theme of the Expo?
The key is to present an attractive future that other countries can be convinced of. I believe our innovation needs to be based on that perspective. One thing we have learned over the past decade or so through efforts to achieve the [UN’s sustainable development goals] around the world is that providing support that gives people a sense of purpose in life is far more effective than sending aid only whenever an emergency arises. It is very important to keep the light of life burning, but it’s equally important to do this in a sustainable way, to make life worth living by protecting the conditions for culture. I hope that the Expo will offer an opportunity to share these ideas with the global community here in Japan.
l Hiroaki Miyata
DRIVING forces
Yasushi Kakimoto of Osaka Metro, and Yuichiro Taguchi of Kansai Electric Power, reveal how the ambitious plans for a fleet of self-driving buses for Expo 2025 are coming along...
The age of self-driving vehicles has truly arrived. After decades of development, driverless cars have leapt from the pages of science fiction to the streets of the U.S. and China, with autonomous taxis picking up passengers in cities such as San Francisco. Japan, of course, has some pedigree when it comes to robotics, and Level 4 autonomous driving— without human intervention but in controlled areas—has taken place in Fukui Prefecture. A big step forward is expected to take place in Osaka during the World Expo, when self-driving electric buses will transport visitors to, from, and around the site. We spoke to Yasushi Kakimoto of Osaka Metro and Yuichiro Taguchi of Kansai Electric Power about their plans.
How close are you to having fully automated vehicles in Osaka?
Kakimoto: We have been conducting tests of automated vehicles in Osaka since 2019, in places including Maishima and Grand Front. We’re working toward Level 4, although we’re currently still at Level 2—partially automated, with a human driver supervising the vehicle. Our current testing regimen is being conducted with the aim of being able to operate at Level 4 during Expo 2025. After the Expo, we’ll continue to improve the sophistication of our automated driving system with the aim of implementing it across the city.
How would implementing self-driving vehicles across the city help?
Kakimoto: Although Osaka is a big, dense
city by Japanese standards, we’re seeing a decrease in population on its periphery. Buses in these areas don’t run frequently, some routes only once an hour, and it’s becoming difficult to provide service in a sustained and sustainable manner because there are so few passengers… We’re also dealing with the issue of not having enough drivers, since it’s hard to recruit enough employees with Class 2 [commercial] driver’s licenses. If this situation doesn’t improve, it will be difficult to sustain public transportation in the city.
So for the sake of Osaka’s development, we’re aiming to not only maintain the public transportation network, but to introduce a variety of new mobility solutions to make transportation smoother, more convenient, and less stressful for our customers. One of these new initiatives is automated driving, which is a promising solution to problems including the driver shortage…
Lower labor costs will ease the strain on our finances and help ensure the provision of sustainable service. We’ll also be able to operate more flexibly since self-driving vehicles won’t be bound by labor restrictions.
Tell us about the innovative system for charging vehicles you’re developing… Kakimoto: It’s a system that allows electric vehicles to be charged wirelessly while in traffic. This requires the installation of charging equipment on the vehicles as well as charging coils that are inserted beneath the road surface. Vehicles are charged when they drive over these coils. We are preparing to test this system at the Expo site during the event and hope to implement it in the city in the future.
Is renewable energy a big part of this project?
Taguchi: Well, when you have vehicles that can charge themselves in transit, they can become a solution to the issue of excess renewable energy. Solar power has become mainstream in Japan, but solar often generates excess electricity during the day that can’t be incorporated into the grid [due to supply exceeding demand] and goes to waste. But in a future where roads are equipped with charger coils and not only buses but trucks, taxis, and private cars are fitted with the equipment needed to recharge while on the move, surplus solar power can be used for this purpose.
How is Japan as a whole faring with autonomous driving?
Kakimoto: We realize that the U.S. and China are well ahead. One good example is the taxi service operated by Waymo, a subsidiary of Google. In San Francisco, I was impressed to see that robot taxis are already being used completely autonomously, operating amid traffic. We’re working on catching up, most immediately with this test of Level 4 selfdriving buses and an associated remote monitoring system. Since buses carry so many passengers, the safety challenges are significant compared to private cars, and I don’t think Level 4 buses are being operated on public roads on a large scale anywhere around the world. So successfully testing autonomous buses on public roads [in Osaka] would be a significant step toward operating them in the city in the future.
l An autonomous bus
STRESS testing
Can a strand of hair show your stress levels?
Startup Evcare hopes its revolutionary assessment method can help Japan tackle the pressures of modern working life. Ili Saarinen meets the company’s CEO, Kei Isozumi
Feeling stressed out? You’re not alone. According to polling company Gallup’s 2024 State of the Global Workplace report, 41 percent of people around the world are, more often than not, experiencing “a lot of stress.”
Japan is often described as a “highstress” society and a 2021 government study revealed that the majority of Japan’s employees feel that work-related stress has a negative impact on their mental health. Even more alarmingly, 57 percent of working women in Japan rated their psychological state as “poor” in a 2022 Deloitte survey.
Recognizing mental health issues as a growing concern, the Japanese government has mandated annual stress checkups at all workplaces with 50 or more employees since 2015. ese assessments involve workers lling in a questionnaire on their mental state and include the opportunity to see a mental health professional.
But critics say that surveys aren’t always the ideal way to identify and tackle stress; not least because at some workplaces, employees may hesitate to respond honestly out of worry that the “wrong” answers could hinder their career development. What, then, might a kinder, gentler, and more e ective approach to
measuring and dealing with stress look like? One innovative potential answer to that question is o ered by Evcare, a startup launched out of Shiga University, where CEO Kei Isozumi completed a master’s degree in education with a focus on bullying and mental health.
Isozumi’s company bases its business on quantifying stress levels by analyzing hormone concentration in hair, a method developed by Evcare’s CTO and Shiga University professor Masako Ohira. By testing for cortisol, the hormone secreted when you feel stressed, and DHEA, which works to calm your body and set things right, this proprietary process gives a good indication not only of how stressed someone is right now, but of their “stress history” too—because the hormones accumulate in hair over time.
Head first
Evcare, however, has its sights set both above and beyond the hairline, so to speak. “Our service,” Isozumi says, “is about helping people develop a skillset for dealing with stress.” His rm accomplishes this by o ering a comprehensive stresstesting package for companies and organizations, one that combines scienti c analysis with counseling. “ ere’s no one right way to deal [with stress],” Isozumi says. “Stress isn’t all bad—it’s also what keeps you going—so responses to it [at workplaces] need to be exible.”
More ambitiously, Isozumi wants to alleviate the stress conundrum on a social level. “Since back when I studied bullying, a key concern of mine has been to raise awareness of stress and how it works in social contexts,” he says. “Having a framework for identifying high levels of stress in an organization can be useful. e data we currently collect [through stress checkups] could in the future be used to make workplaces less stressful on the whole, furthering wellbeing.”
Ultimately, Isozumi hopes that Evcare’s model of bringing together objective data and subjective therapy in the interest of psychological care can help nudge Japan—and the rest of Asia—toward a less stigmatized, more positive understanding of mental health. “I’d like people to think that taking care of your mental health, just like your physical health, is ‘cool’ and something anyone can do,” he says. “Becoming aware of stress and the fact that you can manage it yourself is a big step in the right direction.”
l Companies in Japan are required to offer employees an annual stress check
Osaka UNLOCK
The best things to do in Japan’s second city GUIDES: MARCUS WEBB AND ILI SAARINEN
Osaka is fast becoming one of Japan’s most exciting destinations. The country’s second largest city is packed with history, culture, arts, and nature, plus sensational food and plentiful shopping, with new venues popping up all the time. Here we’ve curated a mix of unmissable staples and exciting new openings.
Enjoy a uniquely Japanese theater experience
Shochikuza Theater
Established in 1923, Shochikuza Theater is Osaka’s main kabuki venue. Kabuki means “unusual” or “shocking,” and its mix of dance, drama, and colorful costumes has been exciting audiences since the seventeenth century. This grand Western-style building can hold about 1,000 people, and there are Englishlanguage headsets available, so tourists can
easily enjoy the riotous events on stage.
1-9-19 Dotonbori, Chuo shochiku.co.jp/play/theater/shochikuza
+81 662 14 2211
Hours and admission prices vary
Take in an ancient temple
Shitennoji Temple
One of Japan’s oldest Buddhist temples, Shitennoji has been reconstructed several times but it remains faithful to its original 6th-century design. You can enter the outer temple grounds for free, but it’s worth forking out to venture inside to see the impressive five-story pagoda, the Gokuraku-jodo Zen garden and the Treasure Hall, which showcases hundreds of Important Cultural Properties and artifacts.
1-11-18 Shitennoji, Tennoji shitennoji.or.jp
+81 667 71 0066
Apr-Sep 8.30am-4.30pm, Oct-Mar 8.30am4pm daily. Entry ¥300 to ¥500 (the grounds are free)
Refuel in a street of eats
Hozenji Yokocho
Just a short walk from the famous Dotonbori district, this atmospheric collection of yokocho (urban alleys) is filled with old-school izakaya, bars, and restaurants. There are about 60 restaurants
and shops here, including eateries specializing in Osaka-style okonomiyaki (savory pancakes). Don’t miss the beautiful Hozenji Temple located in the midst of it all.
Around 1-1-6 Nanba, Chuo Opening hours vary by store
Check out the city’s newest tower
Kitte Osaka and TIMC Osaka
One of the most ambitious new openings of the summer, Kitte Osaka is a shopping and restaurant complex. It will feature over 100 businesses housed across seven floors of the glistening JP Tower Osaka skyscraper adjacent to JR Osaka Station. Kitte Osaka aims to allow visitors to experience hidden gems from across the country via its “Unknown Japan” concept. Shoppers can browse a diverse selection of “antenna shops” selling local goodies from municipalities and regions across Japan.
Shochikuza Theater
TIMC Osaka
Those interested in food culture should head to the bustling Umeyoko zone, a modern interpretation of the country’s beloved yokocho, which will be lined with tiny eateries, pubs, and shops offering regional delicacies.
The tower also hopes to be a force for good. The complex is home to a new healthcare center, TIMC Osaka, which aims to bring preventative medicine to a wider audience. The facility is run by the Tokushukai medical group, established in 1973 and now the largest organization of its kind in Japan. TIMC will offer one-day checkups including upper endoscopy, colonoscopy, and cardiovascular screenings in one of its private rooms with advanced tests such as CT scans and whole-body MRIs. Dental checkups will also be available to offer peace of mind to Osakans and visitors alike.
cultural markets is set to open its very first location in Japan in 2025. Situated in the heart of Osaka, Time Out Market will showcase a curated mix of the city’s and region’s best chefs, renowned restaurateurs, drinks and cultural experiences. Spanning 31,000 sq ft, it will be powered by 17 kitchens, two bars, and an event space. As with other Time Out Markets from New York to Lisbon and Dubai to Cape Town, the Osaka opening will be a cultural and culinary hub that showcases local talents and enables people to connect with the city.
Time Out Market Osaka will be a part of the new Grand Green Osaka, a former cargo yard which has been transformed by real estate developer Hankyu Hanshin Properties Corporation into a multipurpose development designed to incorporate art, culture, and leisure into everyday city life.
2-2 Ofukacho, Kita timeoutmarket.com/osaka
Take in the best views in town
Kuchu Teien Observatory at Umeda Sky Building
It’s impossible not to notice the towering Umeda Sky Building when walking
around Osaka. This landmark, which looks like a spaceship, is arguably the city’s most unique work of architecture. The building is home to one of Osaka’s top attractions, the Kuchu Teien Observatory, which offers breathtaking views of the city skyline from the 40th floor and has an open-air rooftop. The trippy, vertiginous elevator tunnel leading to the observatory is an experience in itself.
1-1-88 Oyodonaka, Kita skybldg.co.jp/observatory
+81 66 440 3855 9.30am-10.30pm daily
Experience a video game brought to
life
Universal Studios Japan, Donkey Kong Country
Universal Studios Japan (USJ) is about to level up with yet another expansion. Modeled on one of Japan’s proudest video game franchises, the theme park’s super-popular Super Nintendo World is set to get even bigger in late 2024 with the opening of Donkey Kong Country,
Kuchu Teien Observatory
Universal Studios Japan
Time Out Market Lisbon
which will increase the size of Super Nintendo World by 70 percent. As you might expect for a place centered on a banana-loving character, Donkey Kong Country will be jungle-themed, with an abundance of tropical plants and trees around the attractions
The area is being conceptualized as a real-life video game, meaning that park visitors will have opportunities to interact with their surroundings and accumulate coins and digital stamps using the PowerUp Band, an accessory familiar to those who’ve been to Super Nintendo World.
The new area will also feature at least one wild ride. USJ has already announced “Mine-Cart Madness,” a high-speed attraction that offers a fresh twist on the traditional roller coaster. The ride will creatively simulate the experience of a mine cart bouncing across broken tracks, as seen in the Donkey Kong games.
2-1-33 Sakurajima, Konohana usj.co.jp
+81 664 65 4005
Opening hours vary.
General admission tickets from ¥8,600 (adults), from ¥5,600 (children)
Marvel at a museum that is a work of art
National Museum Of Art, Osaka
Architecturally one of the most interesting museums in Japan, the National Museum of Art, Osaka was designed by famed architect César Pelli. The avantgarde metal structure looks like an art installation itself, with a sail-like formation inspired by the movements of bamboo. The museum space proper sits largely underground and houses one of the country’s largest collections of Japanese and international contemporary art, with most of the pieces dating from the 1950s onwards. These works–which cover
a range of influential artists including Christian Boltanski, Chiharu Shiota, O Jun and Michio Fukuoka–are showcased on a rotating basis.
4-2-55 Nakanoshima, Kita
nmao.go.jp
+81 664 47 4680
Tue-Thu, Sun 10am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm), Fri-Sat 10am-8pm (7.30pm), closed on Mon (Tue if Mon is a holiday ), year-end and New Year holidays, during exhibition changeover. Prices vary by exhibition
Bask in a neon wonderland
Dotonbori
You can’t say you’ve seen Osaka until you’ve been to Dotonbori. The entertainment and nightlife district is perhaps Osaka’s most famous draw, known for its bright neon signs and array of street food. Here you’ll find the city’s iconic landmarks such as the Glico running man sign and the massive outlet of Don Quijote, the store that seemingly sells it all, complete with its own ferris wheel.
1 Dotonbori, Chuo
+81 662 11 4542
Open 24 hours
+81 667 71 0066
Dotonbori
National Museum of Art, Osaka
Hokkaido UNLOCK
How to make the most of a northern excursion this fall
GUIDES: MARCUS WEBB AND ILI SAARINEN
Hokkaido, the northernmost of Japan’s main islands, consistently ranks among the country’s most in-demand destinations for visitors. And no wonder: with a land area nearly as large as South Korea, immense natural diversity, and a plethora of attractions from worldclass ski resorts to a vibrant culinary scene in cities such as Sapporo, Hakodate, and Otaru, there’s enough to keep even the most intrepid of travelers busy. But since the abundance can get overwhelming, especially if you’re short on time, we’ve put together this quick hit list of things not to overlook in Hokkaido this season. Grab a warm coat and head north…
See samurai tombs
Matsumae-gun, Hokkaido
The city of Matsumae near the southernmost point on Hokkaido grew out of the first Japanese outposts on the island after the Matsumae samurai family was granted sovereignty over Hokkaido
in 1590. The Matsumae constructed the country’s northernmost castle to protect the town and today the reconstructed building stands as a symbol of the samurai past. In the adjacent temple district you can find other structures from the era and the graves of the Matsumae lords.
144 Matsushiro, Matsumae +81 13 942 2216
9am-5pm daily. ¥360
Go underground
Seikan Tunnel Museum, Fukushima
Another standout piece of architecture can be explored in the nearby town of Fukushima, where the Seikan Tunnel Museum details the construction of the 54km undersea passage between Honshu and Hokkaido. A tour offered at the museum takes visitors 140m below the
The Unkai Terrace is a stunning observation point designed to offer visitors high-altitude views of the “sea of clouds” (unkai) the area is famed for. Seven vantage points nearly 1,100m above sea level provide ethereal vistas of the seasonal phenomenon where soft white clouds appear to form an ocean with the peaks of surrounding mountains poking out like islands. It all makes for some memorable photo ops: from the right angle, the tall chairs at the Terrace’s Cloud Bar make
Matsumae castle
Cloud Bar at the Unkai Terrace
it look like you’re sipping a drink miles above the ground.
4.30am-8am until Sep 30, 5am-8am Oct 1-15. ¥1,900 (adults), ¥1,200 (children aged 7-11)
Paddle through nature
Kiritappu Wetlands, Hamanakacho
If you’re looking for a raw taste of Hokkaido’s wilderness and wildlife, it doesn’t get any better than canoeing through the marshes of the Kiritappu Peninsula on the far eastern end of the island. A great variety of birds, including cranes, sea eagles, and swans, as well as large mammals like deer, foxes, and even bears reside in or migrate through the 3,100-hectare wetlands, which are protected under the international Ramsar Convention. Tour operators in the area are required to adhere to strict sustainability requirements and are committed to safeguarding the natural environment. Canoe tours are offered until the wetlands freeze over, usually in mid-November.
Hamanakacho
Experience Ainu culture
Upopoy National Ainu Museum and Park, Shiraoi
It took until 2019 for the Japanese government to officially recognize the
Ainu of Hokkaido as an indigenous people, but efforts to safeguard and revive their endangered culture have picked up speed since then. Since 2020, the coastal town of Shiraoi—once the site of a significant Ainu settlement—hosts the Upopoy National Ainu Museum and Park, an engaging interactive museum that highlights Ainu heritage, language, culture, and daily life from historical and contemporary perspectives. Visitors can take part in activities such as wood carving, playing musical instruments like the mukkuri (a bamboo mouth harp), or watching traditional dance and song performances. The on-site Haru Ran Na restaurant serves innovative cuisine centered on local meats and vegetables roasted in traditional fashion over an open fire.
2-3 Wakakusacho, Shiraoi
ainu-upopoy.jp/en +81 14 482 3914
Opening hours vary between 9am-5pm and 9am-8pm depending on season. ¥1,200 (adults), ¥600 (16-18), children under 16 free
Enjoy incredible seafood
Sapporo
Hokkaido’s capital is a world-class food city, benefiting both from an abundant supply of excellent local seafood and a wealth of flavor-packed produce nourished by the great island’s fresh air, pristine mountain water, and crisp climate. To sample Sapporo’s bountiful seafood all at once and whatever the season, order kaisendon, a bowl of sushi rice topped with slices of raw seafood, at the Sapporo Central Wholesale Market. At restaurants and streetfood stalls across town look for a mix of local specialties like ikura (salmon roe), crab meat, salmon, botan ebi (prawn), uni (sea urchin roe), scallops, and squid. Diners in need of something warming on a chilly fall evening can pick from a steaming bowl of miso ramen (from the Yokochi ramen street), a serving of spicy soup curry (from any of the 200plus restaurants serving it in the city), and creamy Ishikari nabe hotpot with salmon, cabbage, potatoes, scallions, mushrooms, and tofu, all cooked together in a luscious broth of dashi and miso.
Sapporo Central Wholesale Market 20-2-1 Kita 12, Jonishi, Chuo, Sapporo +81 11 611 3111
Raise a glass to the history of J-whisky
Nikka Distillery, Yoichi
Japanese whisky has taken the world by storm over the past 15 years, so much so that many of the most wellregarded varieties are hard to find due to overwhelming demand. For insight into how the country’s whisky-making got off the ground, join a free tour of the Nikka distillery in Yoichi, near Sapporo. The facility was founded in 1934 by Masataka Taketsuru, the “father” of Japanese whisky who studied production techniques in Scotland, married his wife Rita there, and upon his return set up a distillery in Hokkaido because he thought its climate resembled that of the Scottish Lowlands. After touring the vast grounds and its many historic buildings, settle in for some free tasting—or splurge on some seriously rare malts at the in-house bar.
9.15am-3.30pm. Tours are free but reservations are essential
The Shiraoi Ainu Museum
Kaisendon
Kiritappu Wetlands
FORCE OF nature
Kammui founder Max Mackee tells Akiko Toya how the platform is helping visitors to experience Japan’s wild side
Max Mackee wants you to go wild. In 2022 the Japanese-British entrepreneur founded Kammui, a platform that encourages intrepid adventurers to explore Japan’s natural beauty. Kammui connects a curated roster of guides and experiences with those looking to get out and explore Japan’s less traveled corners. The platform was born out of Mackee’s love of backcountry snowboarding but has grown to offer activities from yoga to rock climbing, via surfing, kayaking, and farm experiences. Akiko Toya sat down with him to discuss connecting culture to the great outdoors.
What inspired you to start the company?
When I returned to Tokyo from London I fell in love with backcountry snowboarding [where you ride outside the boundaries of established ski resorts] and through this I realized the importance of nature for both my mental and physical health. This led me to learning about the unique way in which Japanese indigenous beliefs look at the natural world as well as reading more modern research on the importance of nature to people. This inspired me to start Kammui. The name reflects the Japanese idea that nature and spirituality are linked.
What are your most popular tours?
The most popular type of adventure tourism in Japan is still skiing and
l Backcountry snowboarding sees riders going off-piste
snowboarding, but we believe the country offers so much more. So in addition to offering these experiences, Kammui incorporates elements that are unique to Japan. For example, we could combine a day on the slopes with a Japanese whiskey tasting session, or a local guide taking you to a different hot spring every day between runs, and obviously offering delicious local food. Experiencing Japanese spirituality is also popular, and we offer opportunities to do so at places like shrines and temples. Combining
natural and cultural experiences is what sets our tours apart.
Do you mainly cater to international tourists, or do you also have many Japanese customers?
We are completely focused on international tourism. At the moment the U.S. is our largest source of customers with most reservations made through our website or through overseas online travel agencies. We only obtained our official travel agency license last December, so we have just begun to offer premium curated experiences that include accommodation. But we are adamant about partnering with top brands for our activities. For example, we have a partnership with ski brand Blackcrows and are working with them to create some truly exceptional and exciting experiences together.
What is special about adventure tourism in Japan?
Japan’s nature alone is fascinating enough, but this country also has such cultural depth. You see it in everything from design and the use of color to traditions such as the tea ceremony. We believe that by combining these aspects with naturebased experiences, we can create the best experiences in the world.
Are there any issues with the way adventure tourism is done in Japan?
I can think of a few. For example, ski resorts face the issue of having little connection with Japanese culture. Tourists may come all the way to Japan to ski or snowboard, but if they have few opportunities to meet Japanese people and experience Japanese culture, they are less likely to become repeat visitors. Also, even in attractive places such as [UNESCO World Heritage site] Kumano Kodo, there’s a lack of appropriate accommodation facilities.
Which of your tours are you most excited about?
We are currently working for the Ministry of Environment to help create experiences for Japan’s national parks. In Fukushima, we are working on an experience that combines Japanese bonsai culture with national parks. I am excited about this as a truly innovative way to access nature through a cultural lens, but also the potential positive impact on a region that was impacted by the nuclear disaster. kammui.com/en
DO: Relax
ETIQUETTE GUIDE: HOW TO ACT LIKE AN OSAKAN
Osaka has its own set of customs, quirks, and conventions. Here’s how to fit in in Japan’s second city Guide by Ili Saarinen and Marcus Webb
Osaka is generally louder, rowdier, and more laid-back than Tokyo. People are friendlier, less fussy about manners, and much more likely to strike up a conversation with total strangers. That’s not to say there aren’t social faux pas that you should avoid…
DON’T: Be afraid to gesticulate
Osakans talk as much with their hands as with their mouths, using hand gestures that tend to be far more flamboyant than in buttoned-up Tokyo. Some useful gestures to know are that thumping a closed fist into the opposite palm means “I agree,” crossing index fingers in an “X” symbol means “Can I have the bill?”; and, counterintuitively to Westerners, a downward wave means “Come here” rather than “Go away.” Pointing of any kind is considered rude.
DO: Stand on the right
In a place where trains leave to the second, metro escalator etiquette is
In a place where trains leave to the second, metro escalator etiquette is a very big deal indeed
a very big deal indeed, and blocking other travelers by standing where you are supposed to walk is a major no-no. Unlike in Tokyo, where you stand on the left, walk on the right, in Osaka it is reversed: right for standing still, left for go, go, go.
DON’T: Miss the local dishes
Osakans are very proud of their local eats, and you should prepare to fall in love yourself. Must-tries include oshizushi, vinegared sushi rice and toppings placed in a mold and pressed together into a tight stack, and konamon (flour-based foods) including takoyaki (battered balls of octopus), okonomiyaki (savory pancakes), and udon noodles.
DO: Shout at waiters
Well, maybe shouting is a bit much, but you’ll certainly need to raise your voice to call over someone to take your order. In Osaka, service staff don’t like to intrude and rarely approach a table unless beckoned over, so let them know if you want something.
DON’T: Double dip
There’s one big no-no while you’re eating out: if you’re having kushikatsu (deep-fried meat, fish, or vegetable skewers) remember never to dip them more than once in the thick, brown sauce provided. There’s even a giant statue of a snarling, stick-wielding chef, known as the Daruma Minister, in the Dotonbori area to remind people they only have one chance to sauce up.
DO: Talk Tigers
Want to make a fast friend in Osaka?
Talk to them about the local baseball team, the Hanshin Tigers. Want to get run out of town? Don a Tokyo Giants baseball jersey or cap. The rivalry between the two sides is deep-rooted, and Osakans won’t hold back if you are seen as supporting the “wrong” side.
DON’T: Forget to smile
Osaka is Japan’s comedy capital and being funny is one of the most treasured traits a local can possess. A good sense of humor can go a long way in interactions, even in a business setting. If you’re being told a story, prepare for the kicker, or ochi. The teller will be expecting a big reaction when it comes.
