TNT Magazine - Issue 1507

July 16-22 2012 Issue 1507 tntmagazine.com

WIN!

TICKETS TO AN EVENING OF BURLESQUE AT THE INDIGO2

BROLLIES AT THE READY The best outdoor cinemas in the capital

ABSOLUTELY AMAZON Venturing into the heart of the jungle

WATER COOL WAY TO LIVE We chat to Londoners sleeping in floating homes

S T R A M S T E E STR

life cover n a h t re g r la ur exclusive o d e n ig s e d o ti ar tists wh ffi a r g e h t t e Me

+ 48 HOURS IN NOVI SAD THE JURASSIC COAST LATE TRAVEL DEALS TOP 5 ENGLISH GARDENS

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CAROL DRIVER EDITOR carol.driver@tntmagazine.com

EDITOR’S LETTER I’ve had loads of emails recently from unhappy readers who can’t get their hands on the magazine as all the copies have usually gone by Tuesday (a good complaint to receive!). So, to make sure you can get your favourite mag every week, we’re offering everyone living in Greater London the chance to have TNT delivered to their door for free. It’s simple to subscribe. Visit tntmagazine.com/subscribe and never miss out again.

THIS WEEK LONDONDIARY

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LONDONNEWS

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MY LONDON DRINK & EATS

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@TNT

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SPOTTED

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LONDON SOUND

20-21

LISTINGS CLUB & GIGS

22+24

COMPETITIONS

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CHATROOM DAN KIERAN LONDON SCENE SPARE TIME

Photos: Getty; kk.dk Cover: graffitilife.co.uk /TNT. Model: Amie Conradine

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LIFESTYLE

37-45

SHOPPING

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FEATURES AL FRESCO MOVIES

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HEALTH & BEAUTY

38-39

The lowdown on watching top films outdoors in the capital this summer

CAREERS

40-41

MOVE OVER BANKSY

LIVING

44-45

NEWS & SPORT

46-59

The lads from Graffiti Life on street art, making cash and designing our cover

TRAVEL

61-88

DIARY

62

NEWS

65

LATE DEALS

68

HOTSHOTS

71

TOP FIVE

72-73

TIPS & STUFF

74+77

48 HOURS IN... NOVI SAD

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CLASSIFIEDS DESPERATELY SEEKING

89-113 114

FLOAT YOUR BOAT

76

26

44

Meet the Londoners who have given up bricks and mortar for a life on water

PREHISTORIC FUN

66

Head to the stunning 185-million-year-old Jurassic Coast for a first-rate adventure

ON YER BIKE

76

Get on two wheels and explore the best of Copenhagen for the ride of your life

JUNGLE FEVER

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We bravely ditch civilisation and head into the very heart of the Amazon

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EDITORIAL Editor Carol Driver Sub editor Jahn Vannisselroy Content editors: Acting Travel Laura Chubb Entertainment Alasdair Morton News & sport Tom Sturrock Web Oliver Jones Staff writer Clare Vooght Staff writer/editorial assistant Rebecca Kent

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Shhh... SECRET LONDON PHOTOBOOTH FESTIVAL EAST END

This is London’s first Photobooth festival – a day shaped around the little booths that used to be for people seeking passport photos and couples in American teen movies.

How things have changed. This event boasts six ‘star’ booths – Dinky Dub (The Campervan Booth), Toddlerbooth (the world’s smallest), Photostream Booth (retro with rivets), the Pop Art Booth (Warhol-esque), the Discobooth (self explanatory), and the 3D Booth (extradimensional) – as well as DJs and a BBQ amid the fun and photography. £10

Saturday, July 21. 10am-8pm Hoxton 7 Ezra Street, E2 7RH

photoboothfestival.com

MR BRAINWASH SUMMER SHOW

RICH MIX SNAPSHOTS PT 13

THE RED MARKET POP-UP

The street artist, who designed covers for the Chili Peppers and Madonna, brings a showboating two-parter to town. Stage 1 at the Opera Gallery exhibits stencils, canvasses, and brand new works. Stage 2: takes over three floors of The Old Sorting Office, for London’s biggest pop-up art show.

This festival in 13 parts, celebrating London’s East End in Olympics year, comes to a close this week. There are free exhibitions, workshops, performances and film, all showing why this iconic area of the capital is renowned for its ‘diversity, debate and disagreement’. Top choice?

Viva EastEnder! The Olympic Cabaret, for certain.

This 20,000sqft popup in east London has – deep breath – street food and cocktails from local traders, a stage, Olympic Games screenings, a summer house, a mini beach, table tennis, hammocks and petanque. It will also be the last chance to see two Banksy works, which feature on the site until it is renovated.

All thieves of TNT bins will be prosecuted.

FREE

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Reproduction in whole or part is forbidden, except with permission of the publishers.

Registered as a newspaper at the Post Office.

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July 13-Aug 15. Mon-Sat 10am7pm, Sun 1pm-7pm W1S 2TF Oxford Circus operagallery.com

VARIOUS

July 21. 12pm E1 6LA Shoreditch High Street richmix.org.uk

FREE

Daily til September 2. Noon-11pm 288-299 Old Street, EC1V 9DP Old Street redmarketlondon.com

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WHERE WOULD YOU GO TO... like us on

facebook/tntmagazine

glimpse a gorilla?

see equatorial snow?

Explore the city as you’ve never seen it before

eye up an elephant?

CONEY: AN ADVENTURE MAP

check out a chimp?

AND WHERE WOULD YOU STAY WHEN YOU GOT THERE..?

Across London

Part of the London International Festival of Theatre, this interactive project unveils adventure activities across the capital. First you have to attend a ‘departure’, which outlines the project’s principles (loveliness and curiosity, for example) before you get a map that unlocks a number of free events throughout the city that explore your relationship with it. Some can be shared, some need to be. Most of all, though, you best expect the unexpected here.

VARIOUS

Until Aug 12. Times vary Various youhavefoundconey.net; takemeonanadventure.net

LAUGHING BOY COMEDY CLUB

KARL HYDE ART EXHIBITION

Marcus Brigstocke and Phil Jupitus head on down to this subLondon Bridge comedy club for previews of their Edinburgh shows. Quickly establishing itself as one of the best comedy nights out there, it has other special guests lined up, too, so don’t miss out. Unless you don’t like laughing, that is.

Best known as the creative force in Underworld, Karl Hyde is also one component of art and design collective Tomato, and has exhibited his solo work across the world. This, his first collection on home turf, sees his abstract-influenced paintings on show, with pencil drawings as well.

July 19. 7pm Relay@Cable, SE1 3JW London Bridge laughingboycomedyclub.com

July 17-Aug 10. 10am-5pm Bernard Jacobson Gallery, W1S 3NX Piccadilly Circus jacobsongallery.com

£10

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FREE

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LONDONNEWS P-P-P-PICK UP A ... GHERKIN

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In a flap: what the Gherkin would look like

One of London’s iconic modern landmarks will be turned into a giant penguin by London Zoo. The Gherkin will look like a giant bird (pictured right) this summer to promote tourism at the attraction in Regent’s Park.

“We think ‘The Penguin’ would be a striking addition to the London skyline and serve as a perfect reminder to Londoners and tourists alike to visit ZSL London Zoo and Penguin Beach this summer,” a spokesman said.

Whether the suits in the building will be impressed, remains to be seen...

Please, please, please, please Footballer John Terry get confused in Westminster Magistrates Court when asked to repeat evidence that he’d been sent off four times in his career. “Can you say, please, four times?” his QC, George Carter-Stephenson, asked. Terry denies racism charges. The trial continues

CONTROVERSIAL MISSILES INSTALLED Surface-to-air missiles have been installed at six sites across London.

The dramatic move, which has fuelled protests from nearby residents, is to protect the Olympic Games from a terrorist attack.

Rapier and high-velocity missiles have been installed in Bow, Blackheath Common and Oxleas Wood, both in south east London, Enfield, Epping Forest, and on the roof of a 17-storey residential block Fred Wigg Tower, Leytonstone.

ON THE TUBE

Get ready for the Games ...

Just don’t wear political clothing, or bring brollies, hats, frisbees Wannabe revolutionaries will be disappointed to learn that they’re banned from wearing Che Guevara T-shirts in the Olympic Park.

Political items of clothing are no-nos, as are a long list of other things revealed by Games organisers.

Any spectators looking to start a rebellion against oppressive regimes whilst cheering on the javelin throwers will have to dress more conservatively.

Vuvuzelas – the noise we’ll all remember from the 2010 South Africa World Cup – are also not permitted, although we can kind of understand why.

That veto also applies to whistles, drums, klaxons and other fun-filled noisemakers.

Sports fans going to watch the Games

at the Stratford stadium in east London will also be restricted form taking in more than 100ml of liquids for security reasons.

Golf umbrellas, big hats, frisbees, longlens cameras, picnic hampers, tents and placards are also no-nos.

Organisers have said “any objects or clothing bearing political statements or overt commercial identification intended for ‘ambush marketing’,” are banned, according to the Daily Mail.

Twitter users expressed their outrage, with one tweeting: “Coming to the 2012 Olympics? No frisbees or picnic hampers.

It’s gonna rain and Heathrow sucks.”

Another wrote: “If it was the Beijing Olympics that were using the army to staff the Games and banning political clothing, there’d be outrage.”

THIS WEEK IN LONDON...

It’s a-coming: the torch

OLYMPIC HOTSPOTS Wondering which stations to avoid during the Olympics? Here’s a handy list. For full details visit getaheadofthegames.com

CENTRAL: Shepherd’s Bush, Marble Arch, Bond Street, Oxford Circus, Tottenham Court Road, Holborn, Chancery Lane, St Paul’s, Bank, Liverpool St, Stratford

DISTRICT: Southfields, Putney Bridge, Parsons Green, Fulham, West Brompton, Earl’s Court, South Kensington, Victoria

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Photos: Getty; ZSL

JUBILEE: West Ham, Canning Town, North Greenwich, Canary Wharf, Canada Water, Bermondsey, London Bridge, Southwark, Westminster, Green Park, Bond Street, St John’s Wood

The Olympics is getting closer – and this week marks the arrival of the torch in the capital.

Making its way from Greenwich Park to Waltham Forest on Saturday, July 21, the Olympic Flame will be carried by 101-year-old marathon runner Fauja Singh. The East End will be celebrating that night with an evening of fun planned at Chestnut Showground in Walthamstow.

The next day, the relay torch will pass through Redbridge, ending up in Bexley for a night of dancing and community entertainment. Over the following week, the Olympic Flame will make its way from Lewisham to the Olympic Stadium on Thursday, ending its 80-day journey and kicking off London 2012 proper. What are the chances of rain?

TNTMAGAZINE.COM

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Take that, multiplex: outdoor movies at Somerset House

S

Sunshine movies London comes alive in the summer as outdoor cinema screens pop up, turning the city into an al fresco cine-heaven WORDS ALASDAIR MORTON It may be the summer, but that doesn’t mean you have to suffer in a stuffy multiplex to sate your movie-craving.

Sitting indoors when the rest of the world is outside enjoying the sun (hopefully) is a fate skillfully avoided

by London’s dazzling array of outdoor cinema screenings in parks, atop the roofs of pubs and bars, and even in the grounds of stately homes.

Some of London’s most glamorous locations become movie havens, as Film4’s Somerset House Summer Screen shows. Taking up residence in the majestic courtyard of this 18th-century architectural wonder on the banks on the Thames, this season takes in a range of films, both new and old.

“Watching films outdoors in the beautiful courtyard of Somerset House gives people a chance to relax and watch a film informally with friends but still in an audience environment,” Summer Screen programmer David Cox says.

“Being outside and sitting on the ground instantly puts you in a different mood – your senses are more alive and the surroundings are ever changing.

It makes watching a film more of a live experience.”

8

There are all manner of established classics and cult films on the roster this year, from rom-coms and action to comedy, drama, thriller, sci-fi and more.

It all kicks off with the UK premiere of On The Road, starring Garrett Hedlund, Sam Riley and a post-Twilight Kristen Stewart, on August 16.

“Films get chosen through a combination of finding out which ones people feel passionately about – rather than just the ones that made the most money – imagining how a movie might look, sound and feel in this environment, and ultimately measuring the enthusiasm for each story within the team,” Cox says.

“This year, The Birds, Apocalypse Now, Drive and Indiana Jones And The Temple Of Doom instantly fulfilled our criteria. If we don’t really care about a movie, how will anyone else?”

Joining Indy and co will be the likes of French agent provocateur Gaspar Noe’s Enter The Void; Paul Thomas Anderson’s Dirk Diggler tale, Boogie Nights; and Molly Ringwald Eighties classic Pretty In Pink – all sure-fire crowdpleasers of vastly different styles.

The season is also proud to boast

a selection of brand new premieres, which won’t be in multiplexes until later in the year, such as Ben Stiller’s sci-fi alien invasion comedy The Watch, and the Prohibition-set Lawless, starring Shia LaBeouf and Tom Hardy, and directed by Aussie John Hillcoat; “It’s important to keep the season feeling fresh,” Cox says. “These films feature popular stars and promise plenty of surprises. It will be a lot of fun discovering them with everyone else.”

As well as the films in the main courtyard, there will also be a Behind The Screen series, featuring an eclectic collection of speakers, panels and screenings. “This year we’ll have Adam Smith talking about his Chemical Brothers concert film, Don’t Think, artists,” Cox says. “And musicians talking about [Wim Wenders’ cult classic] Paris, Texas, plus a programme of shorts, courtesy of BAFTA and Film4.”

Top films and fresh air: a win-win for all involved.

MORE CINEMATIC EVENTS ›› Film4 Summer Screen at Somerset House.

Aug 16-27. £14.50+ Strand, WC2R 1LA Temple somersethouse.org.uk/film

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Somerset House goes cinematic

On The Road: Sam Riley and Garrett Hedlund hit the road

‘What did you say about my cardie?’

Tom Hardy in John Hillcoat’s Lawless

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MIDSUMMER NIGHTS SCREEN DALSTON

THE LUNA CINEMA KENSINGTON From Casablanca to Ferris Bueller’s Day Off, this touring cinema project specialises in bringing the finest cineclassics to a number of special venues, chosen for their English heritage and picturesque surrounds, near you. The Luna Cinema pulls into luscious English locations such as Hampton Court Palace and Kew Gardens, as well as across the south east, too.

Our pick is Edward Scissorhands in Regent’s Park. £16.50

Dalston Roof Park, a little area of green atop a Dalston roof with stunning views of the city, hosts evening screenings, with a difference – the films are all chosen because of their cine-aceness and kickass soundtracks. Up next are Scarlett Johannson and Bill Murray in Tokyo dream Lost In Translation and Sixties classic The Graduate. £7

July 20 & Aug 30. 6.30pm Print House, E8 3DL Dalston Junction midsummernightscreen.com

POP UP SCREENS ACROSS LONDON ”I love movies but I got to the stage of hating going to the cinema,” Pop Up Screen’s founder David Leyton says of the inspiration behind his pop-up moviegoing. Taking to some of London’s biggest parks will be Derek Zoolander and Anchorman’s Ron Burgundy, with beers and wine and buffalo, ostrich, springbok, wild boar and wildebeest from Tuckers Exotic Meat Shack, too. £8+

July 19-Sept 22 Various Various thelunacinema.com

Friday July 20-Sept 16. Times vary Various popupscreens.co.uk

PICTUREHOUSE CINEMAS CLAPHAM

THE DARK KNIGHT RISES – IMAX WATERLOO

This indie-artstyled chain flirts with the mainstream, but focuses on leftfield, smaller-scale flicks. Recently, comedian Tony Hawks presented his film Playing The Moldovans At Tennis (it’s about exactly that).

Spike Lee’s Do The Right Thing screens this month, as does a filmed production of Danny Boyle’s stage version of Frankenstein.

This multi-arts centre has a full film programme, including art docos, indie flicks (Your Sister’s Keeper) and blockbusters, too.

Director Christopher Nolan, who has risen to become one of the most powerful filmmakers in Hollywood in the space of just 14 years, has so much clout right now that he opted not to shoot the forthcoming The Dark Knight Rises (right) in 3D, as studios wanted, and instead opted for the film format he prefers – IMAX. Boasting the biggest, clearest, most impressive and downright most cinematic image going, projected on a screen 20m tall, it’s a filmgoing experience unlike any other.

It’s the perfect venue to watch what is sure to be the movie event of the year: Nolan’s third – and final – Bat-outing, with Christian Bale back as the Caped Crusader facing off against Tom Hardy’s Bane.

Dates and times vary EC2Y 8DS Barbican barbican.org.uk

July 20-Aug 28 1 Charlie Chaplin Walk, SE1 8XR Waterloo bfi.org.uk

VARIOUS

ROOFTOP FILM CLUB QUEEN OF HOXTON SHOREDITCH The ace rooftop bar at the Queen in the East End plays host to a sterling roster of underthe-stars movies. Today (Mon) there’s Spinal Tap, followed by the likes of Bad Boys, Amelie, Indiana Jones And The Temple Of Doom and Bill Murray classic Groundhog Day. The programme at sister venue, The Kensington Roof Gardens, kicks off again in August, as well. £10

July 16-Aug 30 EC2A 3JX Old Street rooftopfilmclub.com

10

Dates and times vary W4 0AT Clapham Common picturehouses.co.uk

BARBICAN BARBICAN

£16+

SUGARHOUSE STUDIOS STRATFORD The Studios occupy an abandoned east London signwriters warehouse, the building itself scheduled for demolition in 2013. In the meantime, though, it’s an art and creative space putting on films, exhibitions and live events. Coming up is Utopia London, director Tom Cordell’s film journey through the city; London: Hidden City, featuring three newly commissioned short films about the capital, as well as midnight movies.

It’s a celebration of the city’s East End history, before it is lost forever.

VARIOUS

Dates and times vary 107 High Street, E15 2QQ Pudding Mill Lane (DLR) sugarhousestudios.co.uk

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KEW THE MOVIES KEW GARDENS See the season out with this Indian summer-timed movie fest.

It’s set in the extremely pleasant west London Kew Gardens, where you can picnic and relax while watching the likes of Colin Firth’s The King’s Speech and Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s.

There’s also a smattering of sing-along classics in Mama Mia! and John Travolta’s TBird stomping Grease.

CINEMA UNDER THE STARS – SYON HOUSE BRENTFORD

£12

Sept 14-30. Times vary 26 West Park Road, TW9 4DA Kew Gardens kew.org

Vegas nightmare The Hangover, Pink Panther sequel A Shot In The Dark and Brit-retirees-in Mumbai comedy drama The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel are the first three films to be announced for this outdoor movie season at the London home of the Duke of Northumberland. So not only do you get some top movies to make you laugh, cry and cheer, but you get to enjoy them in some truly royal surrounds, as well. £10

MORE LONDON FREE FILM FESTIVAL SOUTH BANK You don’t need to spend a fortune to enjoy al fresco movies in London. The Scoop, a large outdoor venue adjacent to Boris’s mayoral headquarters, showcases classic and cult flicks alike. New York musical classic West Side Story, racing documentary Senna and Dickens adaptation Great Expectations head up this year’s programme. The outdoors was never so great.

FREE

Sept 12-28. Times vary.

Queen’s Walk, SE1 2DB

London Bridge

INSTITUTE OF CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTRAL LONDON

Aug 9-12. 7.30pm Syon Park, Brentford, TW 8JF Gunnersby syonpark.co.uk

morelondon.com

BRITISH FILM INSTITUTE SOUTH BANK Film’s home on the banks of the Thames has Hitchcock and Warren Beatty seasons, and shows everthing from IMAX Hollywood flicks to obscure, unearthed-from-the archives art docos, and all in between. Something for cinemagoers of all tastes .

FREE

Rather than being locked down to one location, the NRC troupe beat a path from place to place, each film setting up camp somewhere new. Or, as the organisers explain, it’s “the roaming-est pop-up cinema experience in the world”, with immersive elements the icing on the cake. Up soon are The Goonies (above) and The Big Lebowski, in the likes of Queen’s Park and Fulham Palace. Top stuff.

VARIOUS As the name suggests, you’re not going to find SpiderMan swinging across New York’s skyline in threedimensions, or Christian Bale’s Batman. What you will find, though, are fascinating independent films, recent indie-scene hits and classics, as well as various film seasons, talks, discussions and events.

James Franco recently popped in to introduce a screening of Jack Nicholson’s Oscar-winning 1970 drama Five Easy Pieces. Coming up soon are the Rushes Soho Short Film Festival; the Artists Film Club, offering talks and workshops on moviemaking magic; and films and docs from around the world.

From July 29. Times vary.

Various whereisthenomad.com

Dates and times vary The Mall, SW1Y 5AH Charing Cross ica.org.uk

THE NOMAD ROAMING CINEMA VARIOUS £12.50+

Dates and times vary Belvedere Road, SE1 8XT Waterloo bfi.org.uk

SECRET CINEMA ACROSS LONDON This secretive film club has grown from oneoff immersive movie performances to month-long seasons, the latest being Ridley Scott’s Prometheus.

VARIOUS

Dates and times vary Various secretcinema.org

BP SUMMER SCREEN TRAFALGAR SQUARE Trafalgar Square becomes the setting for one of the biggest outdoor cinema events in town (10,000 people have been squeezed into this iconic London locale before).

The Opera House screens Metamorphosis: Titian 2012 productions from Covent Garden for opera and ballet fans to soak up in the – fingers crossed – warm and sunny city centre square.

The carnival vibe means you don’t have to be a die-hard ballet fan, either.

FREE

July 16. 7.30pm Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN Charing Cross roh.org.uk

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KEW KEW See mov Gard wat Aud sma stom July 26

K E E P MISSING YOUR

MYLONDON

TNT?

TYRONE WALKER-HEBBORN OWNER AND DIRECTOR, GENESIS CINEMA What baffles me about London is why Tube drivers wait just until a signal is about to change from red to make an announcement, even though you’ve been stuck on a train for 10 minutes ... is this a private TfL joke?

When I want to chill out I can usually be found around the rooftop pool at Shoreditch House, a stone’s throw from my cinema but like another world.

The most interesting person I’ve met is Danny Boyle, the man’s a legend.

He loves films and always talks so passionately about them. Genesis is his local cinema and he’s our favourite patron.

My favourite place for a drink Hmmm. Well, a Bloody Mary during the day by the pool is always good, or sipping a Bloody Mary on the roof of Century Shaftesbury Avenue in the evening.

DELIVERED STRAIGHT TO YOUR DOOR!

For when you’re hungover in London head down to G Kelly’s in Bethnal Green and order up a double pie and one mash for lunch.

What gets me up in the morning? My iPhone alarm at 5.30am playing the song heard just before “the kick” in Inception – Non, Je Ne Regrette Rien sung by Édith Piaf. Reminding me to get up for yoga, urgh!

SUBSCRIBE NOW FOR FREE! *

My perfect weekend would start with lunch on Friday with my brother and cousins which finishes at 2am. I wouldn’t have a hangover on Saturday, and would play golf in the sun, eat an English breakfast, watch Lewis Hamilton and Jenson Button qualify at the top of the grid, swim with the kids, then dinner and a movie with the missus. Sunday would be lunch with the family, a quick electric skateboard around Victoria Park, then home for a cuppa and a nice relaxing evening watching classic movies on TV. The last naughty thing I did was jump out of a car to abuse a driver who was having a go at me, then realised I was dressed as the King Of Hearts for a fancy dress ball at the Tower of London, tights and all ... D’oh!

Five words that sum up London ... Sunny, rainy, but uber cool. genesiscinema.co.uk 12

Photos: Niko Alajoki

What’s the biggest faux pas you’ve made? Telling a director a film he pitched to me before he made it was “rubbish but good luck”. The director was Danny Boyle and he was flying to Mumbai to make Slumdog Millionare!

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To book these TNT exclusive deals call us on 0207 394 5232 13/7/12 09:59:37

LONDONDRINKS

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THE CLAPTON HART

@tntmagazine

Miss-match heaven in the dining room

GASTRO PUB THE SCENE This former notorious boozer has been transformed into a gastro pub that reflects the recent influx of professionals and creative types. The walls look unfinished, mismatched tables and chairs stand alongside quirky chandaliers trapped inside bird cages with ornaments that would be more at home in your gran’s flat. There is a reason for the pub being rough around the edges; it isn’t finished yet, but this adds to its homemade charm. Expect to see families out for dinner, workers after a long day at the office, and the usual old men supping real ales. The staff are plentiful and chirpy, which means efficient and super-friendly service, although the bar is on the small size for such a large place. There are also picnic tables at the front and rear for soaking up the evening sun.

THE GRUB With a daily menu served from 4pm to 9.30pm including starters, mains and desserts, it is possible to have a full dining experience. Expect posh pub grub such as Cumberland sausage and mash, and whitebait with handcut chips.

BEHIND THE BAR There are the usual beers, wines and spirits with a regular turnover of popular real ales on draft.

BILL PLEASE Food from £4; mixers from £3.60; beers from £3.60; wine from £3.55.

VERDICT This new gem of a pub means the up-and-coming area of Clapton has finally arrived. Definitely worth a visit if you’re in the area. RUTH ROXANNE BOARD

231 Lower Clapton Road, E5 8EG

3 OF THE BEST OLYMPIC TREATS

14

claptonhart.com

Clapton

CAPITAL HOTEL

PARK PLAZA

ON CAFE

The chefs have fashioned treats into Olympics props as part of its Top London Afternoon Tea. There are dumbells made from passionfruit ganache and Valhrona chocolate, plus a lemon sponge podium. £25.

Raise a glass to sporting excellence with Gamesthemed cocktails and mocktails. They’ve got inspired names such as Finishing Line, False Start and Off With A Bang, and cost from £4.95.

Havenly macarons (£8.50), including the flavours English Pear, Ginger and Champagne, come with a hand-painted Olympic designs. Buy them at the Real Food Market Southbank Centre, July 26-Aug 12.

capitalhotel.co.uk

parkplaza.com

realfoodfestival.co.uk

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1507 drinks.indd 14

13/7/12 14:32:12

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BITE SIZE

Ambience: a taste of Turkey

DESIGNER MEAL Fancy a dinner with culture on the side? It’s a deal at Blueprint Cafe, where a two-course meal with wine comes with a free ticket to the Design Museum’s Designed To Win exhibition.

The show takes a close look at how everything from F1 cars to carbon fibre javelins are engineered for greatness.

The cafe is above the museum at Shad Thames, so just duck in to pick up your ticket, visit the exhibition before close at 7pm, then enjoy your meal. The offer runs from July 26 to August 12 and costs £28. blueprintcafe.co.uk

GO FOR GOURMET GOLD Gastropub group ETM invites punters to eat or drink at any four of its 10 London venues throughout the Olympics, having a ‘Gastro Race’ card stamped at each, and beating all other customers to win prizes. Gold gets a free meal for six people, silver four tickets to any wine event at The Jugged Hare in the City, and bronze scores a champagne afternoon tea for two at The Botanist, Sloane Square, or at the Chiswell Street Dining Rooms, Barbican. Everyone else gets a free drink for being a good sport. etmgroup.co.uk

BERRY BERRY NICE Dstrkt restaurant in Rupert Street, Soho is paying homage to the humble strawberry with a new, experimental tasting menu. On it are curious dishes such as avocado, chives, jamon and strawberries fluid gel; dehydrated strawberries dipped in nitrogen, and roasted bone marrow with strawberries and tomato jam. The menu costs £55. dstrkt-london.com

AMBIENCE TURKISH THE SCENE ‘Ambience’ is definitely the right word here. If you’re not put off by the slightly tacky exterior, this new Turkish restaurant, situated between Wimbledon and Wimbledon Park Tube stations, offers a great selection of treats, in a warm friendly atmosphere. It’s cheap and cheerful, and you can relive Turkish holidays with the varied, authentic cuisine, or get sloshed at the cocktail bar and enjoy belly dancer entertainment on Saturday nights. There’s also a comfy shisha lounge for those that enjoy a post-dinner smoke. Ambience caters for medium-sized parties who are after a bit of a celebration while wearing a fez hat, but also for smaller groups – expect a less excitable crowd on weekdays.

THE GRUB A wide selection of traditional mezes, most of which are big enough to share. The halloumi cheese is a particular delight. Set menus are available so you can get a taster of a wide variety of dishes with a mix of hot or cold Turkish mezes, including humus, cacik, tarator, calamari, borek and loads more. It’s well worth experimenting with a few different dishes and expanding your Mediterranean horizons. Main courses include lamb moussaka, zingy chicken shish kebabs cooked on a charcoal grill accompanied by a fresh salad and rice. There’s vegetable moussaka or stuffed peppers for vegetarians. My dining partner’s lamb kofte is a bit on the fatty side, but portions are generous – those with a healthy appetite will be more than happy. Ambience isn’t going to set the culinary world on fire, but it’s fresh, satisfying and a huge step up from the local kebab shop

Efes Turkish beer, wine and cocktails. Try the Pomegranate Mojito, deadly Melon Iced Tea or Sloe Comfort Screw With A Kiss. Delightful.

BILL PLEASE Starters from £3.95; mains from £11.95; beers from £3.50; cocktail pitchers to share £18.95.

VERDICT A decent local restaurant, particularly for groups and parties. Hidden away from Wimbledon’s more expensive high street options. DAN THORNE BEHIND THE BAR

12-14 Leopold Road, SW19 7BD

ambiencerestaurant.co.uk

Wimbledon

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FINAL 1507 food.indd 15

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@TNT GET IT OFF YOUR TEXT

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LETTER OF THE WEEK

Where it’s at: London

Text TNT and your message to

81707*

Tetra Pak Heir’s Wife ‘Was Addicted To Drugs’.

Duh. once she opened her stash, it only stayed fresh for 24 hours.

Nicolette My parents reckon I’m a sexist. I think my dad may be on to something there.

Georgie Boy bought a jacket from the Fire Service charity shop and the Bloody thing burst into flames.

Well, it was a blazer ...

Constance hit my head on a bridge in Belgium ... Now I have a massive Bruges.

Emma D Just bought my niece the latest barbie doll.

‘Divorce barbie’ ...

It Comes with all of ken’s accessories.

Shariva Pete, No, no, no. I really wasn’t insulting you. I was just describing you.

Bethany

Roland Mary, you’re the most gorgeous creature I’ve ever seen. Let’s go out!

Ravishing Rick Rude The news of Chris Moyles leaving Radio One reminds me of Michael Jackson’s death - I couldn’t give a fuck.

Oliver

I’m so excited about being in London for the Olympics. I’ve got Aussie mates coming over just for the month – we haven’t got tickets, we just want to be part of the vibe. Those haters complaining about the Tube and the rain should get a life – we’re in the city everyone else wants to be. So there might be a few extra bodies on the Tube, big deal! What matters more is being part of the biggest event in London for years.

J Logan, via email

WORK FOR IT

WE SOLDIER ON

Re: Tom Sturrock’s Sportview column (TNT 1506): I’m all for women’s rights, but until these women tennis players start playing five sets and are out on the court for more than an hour, they don’t get equal pay.

Julia, via email

The idiots that run the UK are cutting our armed forces again, but go into the job centre and you see ads to join the forces there.

Why? Cos it’s cheaper to train someone than to have someone already trained.

In Scotland, the Tory party told us there would be no cuts in the Scottish regiments, but now the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders are reduced to about 150 soldiers. No good.

David, via Facebook

Re: John Lydon on Question Time (tntmagazine.com): He was well out of his depth. The Sex Pistols were as manufactured as any boy band and Lydon played up to the cameras most of the time, but if he’s trying to kick start his career, it’s a bit late really. He came across as a loudmouth and didn’t really have anything to say, to be outsmarted by someone as dull as Louise Mensch says it all really.

Stick to flogging butter John, and leave waffling to politicians – at least they’re half decent at bluffing.

David, via tntmagazine.com

IT’S BULLSHIT! I don’t get Pamplona.

The bulls chase people along uneven cobble stone streets, sometimes breaking legs and horns when they fall over, and seriously harming some people, then they get slaughtered … all for fun.

Is there no compassion?

Rebecca, via Facebook NANNYING/40 NOVI SAD /82

Logan wins a three-day tour of Ireland with Shamrocker shamrockeradventures.com

YOUR TWEETS Tweet us @tntmagazine @BumpyRide: I wonder if the earth teases other planets for having no life. @tinytittays: I like to make intense eye contact with the person in the car next to me while I pick my nose. @FilthyRichmond: I know they don’t recommend ibuprofen during pregnancy but I needed something for the hangovers.

YOUR FACEBOOK Follow us on facebook/tntmagazine

Clint Heine: Re: Tubes during the Games: It will just be a massive clusterfuck and TfL will say it was a resounding success.

Prue Elmer: Re: food poisoning while travelling: Stay away from salad washed in local water which is most of everything, even pricey places and generally most Western dishes.

Victoria Buckland: And if your friend thinks her chicken pizza tastes of tuna, don’t test it!

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1507 @TNT.indd 16

13/7/12 11:30:08

Be part of London’s biggest FREE* gig this weekend

AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND AND THE PACIFIC ISLANDS OCEANIA STAGE AT

OLD ROYAL NAVAL COLLEGE, GREENWICH

SATURDAY 21 AND SUNDAY 22 JULY

THE BLACK ARM BAND COMPANY GREEN FIRE ISLANDS NARASIRATO FRANK YAMMA THE BARONS OF TANG WANTOK MUSIK SING SING DIRECTED BY DAVID BRIDIE

and many more For full details and information on how to get your FREE* tickets go to

www.btriverofmusic.com

*Tickets are free but there is a £3 per ticket booking fee

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DISCOVER JORDAN

ADVENTURE www.discoverjordan.com

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ARE YOU SPOTTED IN THE CIRCLE?

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Email us at marketing@ tntmagazine.com with ‘Spotted’ in the subject line, email must include a photo of yourself!

You’ve won a 13-week UK subscription to TNT Magazine

SPOTTED AT TNT’S SUMMER PARTY Kia Oval and Kennington Grand Union Friday, July 6 Photos by: Chiara Palazzo/TNT For more Spotted like us on facebook/tntmagazine

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FINAL 1507 Spotted.indd 19

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13/7/12 09:56:16

LONDONSOUND

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Nobody else was impressed with Jake’s new lining

festival

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READING FESTIVAL

The rock and indie blowout to the end of festival season, this bank holiday weekend extravaganza has, over the course of its history, welcomed Metallica, Nirvana and Smashing Pumpkins to its stages.

This year, it’s the turn of the nicest guy in rock, Dave Grohl, and his Foo Fighters to close out the Sunday night, with Kasabian headlining Saturday and The Cure bringing their gothindie-pop to Friday night.

Rock on!

Richfield Avenue, Reading, RG1 8BD. £197.50.

Aug 24-26.

Reading

readingfestival.com

BT RIVER OF MUSIC Various venues across the city JULY 21-22 | DOORS AT 11AM | FREE (registration required)

Featuring six stages stretching the length of the Thames in the city, this ambitious festival of sound and performance gives each of those stages a ‘continent of the world’ theme to create a truly eclectic, eccentric and globe-spanning experience.

Part of the London Festival 2012, the River Of Music showcases an Asia stage in Battersea Park; a Europe stage in Somerset House and Trafalgar Square; an Americas stage in the Tower of London; an Oceania stage at the Old Royal Navy College in Greenwich; and an Africa stage at the London Pleasure Gardens.

The Africa stage features a hugely diverse line-up of talent, such as The Noisettes, ace guitarist Justin Adams and veteran singer Angelique Kidjo, who has a full backing band to complement her staggering vocal performance.

Soul queen Beverley Knight, alongside saxophonist Andy Sheppard, Jools Holland And His Rhythm And Blues Orchestra and Guillemots frontman Fyfe Dangerfield take to the European stage. Folk-meets-alt-sters 9Bach, choral collective Coastal Voices and Australian muso Frank Yamma represent the Oceania stage, with the likes of Indian tabla player Zahir Hussein and Pakistani qawwali sensation Asif Ali Khan among the wealth of talent drawn from across Asia for its representative stage. New York glam-poppers Scissor Sisters (above), back this year with their fourth LP, Magic Hour, bring their glam-electro-pop to the Americas stage. Jazz legend Wynton Marsalis also performs.

Plus, it’s all part of the Olympics celebrations and all free. No excuses.

Various

FINAL 1507 Lon Sound.indd 20

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13/7/12 14:35:43

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NEW BAND

BLINK 182 GIG JULY 25-26. 7PM. £35

They started starring naked with porn stars in their videos, and singing songs called Dick Lips.

Now, though, back from a hiatus that saw them work on various other projects, the boys are men, with loftier lyrical themes and their punk roots infused with an emo-styled sensibility, and new album Neighborhood, too.

Photos: Getty

Brixton Academy 211 Stockwell Road, SW9 9SL Brixton o2academybrixton.co.uk

SNEAKY SOUND SYSTEM

UP ON THE ROOF

CLUB

CLUB

SAT, JULY 21. 10PM-6AM £10

SUN, JULY 22. 2PM-1AM £8+

Following the release of their critically lauded third LP, From Here To Anywhere, Aussie dance duo singer Miss Connie Mitchell and producing partner in crime Black Angus McDonald hit town for a night of electro-house-pop. They’ve a number of yet-to-be-announced special guests in tow, too.

Soul, disco, house, hip-hop and beyond – you can expect to hear everything at this eclectic south London party which honours the Notting Hill Carnival’s Good Times stage. GT mainman Norman Jay spins a three-hour set, with Sancho Panza following after, honouring the man and party that’s become a summertime institution.

Electric Brixton Town Hall Parade, SW2 1RJ Brixton electricbrixton.com

Brixton Clubhouse 476 Brixton Road, SW9 8HH Brixton brixtonclubhouse.com

ICE T + CHUCK D

WE FEAR SILENCE: BLACKOUT

CLAUDIA BRÜCKEN

GIG

CLUB

GIG

THURS, JULY 19. 7PM. £50

SAT, JULY 21. 10PM-6AM £10+

THURS, JULY 19. 7.30PM £25

Ice T and co headline this show as part of the premiere celebrations for his new history of rap documentary, Something From Nothing ... With legendary Public Enemy frontman Chuck D, and Melle Mel and Raekwon, along for the ride, this is set to be killer. Showing even T has embraced maturity, he’ll be doing a post-show Q&A, too.

Dutch trio Black Sun Empire have taken the continent by storm with their techno-infused drum ‘n’ bass, and they are bringing their muchlauded club night, Blackout, to the UK. D ‘n’ B god Dillinja, Ed Rush and Exit Records’ dBridge are just some of the names joining him to make this evening something special.

The synthpop seductress headlines the glam and plush Bush Hall, along with a host of former bandmates and collaborators, including Glenn Greggory and Martyn Ware from Heaven 17, Andy McCluskey from Orchestral Manoeuvres In The Dark (or OMD for short), and Susanne Freytag from Brücken’s old group Propaganda.

Hammersmith Apollo 45 Queen Caroline Street, W6 9QH Hammersmith hammersmithapollo.net

Cable Bermondsey Street Tunnel, SE1 3JW London Bridge cable-london.com

Bush Hall 310 Uxbridge Road, W12 7LJ Shepherd’s Bush bushhallmusic.co.uk

PLANT PLANTS THE BUZZ SO FAR This east London

duo released their debut, EP, last year, produced by Simian Mobile Disco’s Jas Shaw, shooting them straight to the top of the ‘making waves’ lists.

They’re back with a follow-up, which pulls together many diverse sounds – electronica, beats, samples, guitars, and pop-tastic vocals reminiscent of Robert Smith. And this eclectic soundscape is conjured live when the duo hit the stage – no laptop accompaniment here.

THE CRITICS SAY “They radiate sheer gleeful, party vibes.” Vice Noisey THE PLUG One To Adore and EP2 are out July 18 through This Is Music.

They play Birthdays 35 Stoke Newington Road, N16 8BJ Dalston Kingsland, July 17, £7 birthdaysdalston.com

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FINAL 1507 Lon Sound.indd 21

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13/7/12 14:36:07

CLUBLISTINGS Monday 16

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Gravity DJs Alan K and Fat Tony spin electro, house and disco, with hosts Mauricio and Danny Boyce. Fire, Arch, 39-43 Parry St, corner South Lambeth Rd, SW8 1RT (020 3242 0040).

2am-8am. £10, concs £5.

Afro-Cuban Lounge DJ Doctor Jim spins Latin, world and jazz, plus dance lessons. Buffalo Bar, Upper St, N1 1RU (020 7359 6191).

7.30pm-late. £4, club & lessons £7.

Cuban Hideaway DJ Rich plays Latin, house, funk and R‘n’B. The Hideaway, Stanthorpe Rd, SW16 2ED (020 8835 7070). 9.40pm-late. £7.

I Love Mondays DJ Victor and guests spin disco, dance, funky house, R‘n’B and reggae.

Moonlighting, Greek St, W1D 4DR (020 7437 5782/cc 020 7287 3727).

10pm-3.30am. £5, w/flyer £3, NUS £2, NHS staff free.

It’s Britney Bitch! DJ Tuomo Fox and special guests spin pop, R‘n’B and chart hits, with MC Patrick Lilley. The Shadow Lounge, Brewer St, W1F 0RF (020 7287 7988).

10pm-3am. £5, mems free.

The Jump Off DJ Manny Norte plays hip-hop, garage and R‘n’B, with hosts Rap 6 and Charlie Sloth. The Scala, Pentonville Rd, N1 9NL (020 7833 2022/ cc 0844 477 1000). 8pm-2am. £12, £10 before 9pm, adv £7.

Popcorn Adam Turner, Jamie Hammond, Terry Vietheer, Neroli, Harvey Adam, Terry T-Rex and Zach Burns play dance, electro, R‘n’B, pop and hip-hop. Heaven, Charing Cross Arches, Villiers St, WC2N 6NG (020 7930 2020). 11pm-5.30am. £8.

Stampede DJ Laurence Rene spins pop-punk, alternative, rock and ska, with hosts Oli Sandler and Matt Boland. Escape Bar, Brewer St, W1F 0SU (020 7734 3040).

9pm-3am. £5, £3 before 1am, £1 before 11pm, free before 10pm.

Tuesday 17 Balearic Amir Groove and Nick Tcherniak supply deep, vocal and Balearic house to evoke the spirit of Ibiza. The Shadow Lounge, Brewer St, W1F 0RF (020 7287 7988).

10pm-3am. £5, guestlist free.

Havana Club Resident DJs supply Cuban beats, with dance classes available. Club Colosseum, Nine Elms Ln, SW8 5NQ (020 7720 3609).

7.30pm-1pm. £4, mems £3, club & lessons £8, NUS £6.

MDNA Tour After Party DJs David Robson, Neil Prince and Kurt Hoffman spin chart, pop, dance and retro hits, with host Jonny Woo. The night includes a raffle of exclusive merchandise to raise funds for the St Stephen’s Aids charity. Punk, Soho St, W1D 3DN (020 7734 4004).

10.30pm-late. Adv £8.

White Heat Resident DJs spin pop and indie, plus live performances from Toy and Filthy Boy. Madame Jojo’s, Brewer St, W1F 0SE (020 7734 3040).

8pm-3am. £6, adv £4 & £5.

No Quarter Rock, indie and electro, with live performances from Old Man Diode, Laurie Nicoll, Emma Lauran and Lauren Aquilian.

Notting Hill Arts Club, Notting Hill Gate, W11 3JQ (020 7460 4459).

7pm-2am. £8, w/flyer £6.

22

White heat Madame JoJo’s. August 14. £7 Come ready for a mixture of electro, techno, indie hits spun by their resident DJ at the infamous Soho venue. Pictureplane and Labyrinth Ear play live.

W1F 0SE

Piccadilly Circus

Panic Max Panic, Gaz Panic and That Perfect Fumble spin indie, electro, retro and pop.

The Roxy, Rathbone Place, W1T 1HJ (020 7255 1098). 10pm-3am. £5, NUS/w/flyer £3, guestlist w/flyer free before 10.30pm.

Wednesday 18

madamejojos.com

Thursday 19 Bad Sex Mayton DJs, Fin Munro and The Darlingtons supply lo-fi, chillwave, noise and house. Proud Camden, The Horse Hospital, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AH (020 7482 3867).

7.30pm-2.30am. £7, £5 before 10pm, guestlist £5, NUS free before 10pm.

Clubbing London & Max Parties Resident DJs spin house and electro. The Den & Centro, West Central St, WC1A 1JJ (020 7240 1083). Midnight-6am. £10.

I Love Fwd Silkie And Quest, Swindle, Chef and Razor Rekta supply house, funk and electronica. Plastic People, Curtain Rd, EC2A 3QE (020 7739 6471). 9.30pm-2am. £7.

Death2Disco Danny Watson, Nigel Thomas and BlagSound DJs spin indie, punk and rock.

Notting Hill Arts Club, Notting Hill Gate, W11 3JQ (020 7460 4459).

7pm-2am. £3, free before 11pm.

Latin Krazy DJs spin salsa, merengue, bachata and reggaeton, plus salsa dance lessons. Salsa!, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JG (020 7379 3277).

6pm-2am, £4, free before 9pm.

Disco Paradise Jo Public plays rare groove, disco, soul and rock ‘n’ roll. Joiners Arms, Hackney Rd, E2 7QL (020 7739 9397). 11pm-2am. Free.

Prick Up Your Ears John Sizzle, Dave Kendrick, Juancho & Rob and Kevin Clash spin electro and robot rock on rotation. East Bloc, City Rd, EC1V 1JN (020 7253 0367).

11pm-4am. £5, free before midnight, w/flyer £3 after midnight.

Gigolo DJs supply house, pop and disco, hosted by international porn stars.

The Shadow Lounge, Brewer St, W1F 0RF (020 7287 7988).

10pm-3am. £8, concs £5, mems free.

Soundyoucansee Launch Party Iggy B supplies indie, dance beats and electronica. The Macbeth, Hoxton St, N1 6LP (020 7749 0600). 7pm-late. Free.

Stripped Back Soul Resident DJs play Motown and soul. The Blues Kitchen, Camden High St, NW1 7JN (020 7387 5277). 7pm-1am. Free.

Those That Know Resident DJs and guests spin hip-hop, postdubstep, electronica and R‘n’B. Catch, Kingsland Rd, E2 8DA (020 7729 6097). 8pm-midnight. Free.

Wednesday DJ Glenny supplies rap, salsa, calypso, garage and jungle beats. Barrio North, Essex Rd, N1 2SF (020 7688 2882).

5pm-midnight. Free.

XXL Wednesdays DJs Christian M and Alex Logan play funky house in the main room, while Joe Egg spins retro in the Fluff Bar. Pulse, Invicta Plaza, SE1 9UF (020 7403 9643). 9pm-3am. £3, mems free, annual m’ship £10.

tntMagazine.com

Roller Disco Funk and disco for a wheeled audience. Renaissance Rooms, opposite Arch 8, Arches, Miles St, SW8 1RZ (0844 736 5375). 8pmmidnight. £10 inc skates, £7.50 bring your own skates, NUS £6 inc skates.

Room Service Dance party in the company of Kris Di Angelis, Severino, Fat Tony, Steve Pitron, Matt Bogard and Ariel. Miabella, Greek St, W1D 4DL (020 7025 7844).

10pm-3am. £8, £5 before midnight.

Smashing Blouse Presents Olugbenga, Fearne Cotton, Willy Moon and I Dream In Colour provide indie, electro, dance.

XOYO, Cowper St, EC2A 4AP (020 7729 5959). 8.30pm-late, £8.

@tntmagazine

Friday 20

Defected In The House Junior Jack & Kid Creme, Shapeshifters, Frankie RIzardo, Flashmob, Solo, Andy Daniell, Delice Dephunk, No Agenda Music Showcase, Djoz, Claus Willhelm, Adam T, Si’ke DJs and Dave Gore spin electro, trance and techno across four rooms. The Ministry Of Sound, Gaunt St, SE1 6DP (0870 060 0010). 11pm-7am. £18.

Balkankan DJs Kobayashi, Shefitza and Fafa supply Balkan beats, folk, Gypsy ska and electro swing. Ginglik, Shepherd’s Bush Green, W12 8PH (020 8749 2310).

9pm-4am. £8, mems free, PAYG mems £6 before 10pm.

Fabric Craig Richards, Guy Gerber, Shaun Reeves, DJ Tennis and guests supply tech-house and electronica. Fabric, Charterhouse St, EC1M 6HJ (020 7336 8898). 11pm8am. £19, adv £18, adv £23 inc CD, £10 after 4am, mems £13, NUS £12.

Church Instra:mental, Lone, George Fitzgerald, Objekt, Behling & Simpson, Seb Wildblood, Apes, Versa and Reflec spin electro and dubstep. Corsica Studios, Elephant Rd, SE17 1LB (020 7703 4760).

10pm-6am. Adv £10 & £12.

Ideal Clubworld Radio DJ Bob Frisky spins house and dance.

Gigalum, Cavendish Parade, Clapham Common South Side, SW4 9DW (020 8772 0303). 4pm-7pm. Free.

Disco’s Deeper Resident DJs supply old school and club classics. Gigalum, Cavendish Parade, Clapham Common South Side, SW4 9DW (020 8772 0303). 7pm-late. Free.

Entail Records Presents Okie Dokie Warehouse Party DJs ThanksMate, Jack & I and Nathalia spin techno and electronica, plus a live performance from Malandra JR. Crucifix, Crucifix Ln, SE1 3JW 11pm-6am. Adv £10 & £12, see www.residentadvisor.net for details.

Fabriclive Hatcha And N-Type, Ez, Scratch Perverts and guests supply dubstep and electronica.

Fabric, Charterhouse St, EC1M 6HJ (020 7336 8898). 10pm-6am. £17, adv £16, adv £21 inc CD, £7 after 3am, mems £12, NUS £10 before midnight.

Future Boogie X Melbourne Deepcast X Wolf Joe 90, Myles Mar, Stu Clarke & Matt Neale, Yam Who and Capita provide dance beats and electronica.

The Queen Of Hoxton, Curtain Rd, EC2A 3JX (020 7422 0958).

8pm-2am. £5, free before 8pm.

The Gallery Umek, Manuel De La Mare, Paul Thomas, Paul Jackson, Melody Cane, Rachel Harvey, Night Life In London, Jay Deep, Diego Herrera, Steve Murrell, Jeff Souza, Dave Bowler, Bugaboh & Afrodite and Mike Injeti & Electum spin electro, house, trance and techno. The Ministry Of Sound, Gaunt St, SE1 6DP (0870 060 0010). 10.30pm-6am. £14.

Livin’ Proof Special Danny Brown, DJ Rags, DJ Khalil, Budgie, Snips and The Last Skeptik provide hiphop, dance beats and electronica.

XOYO, Cowper St, EC2A 4AP (020 7729 5959). 10.30pm-3am. £10.

Saturday 21

Society John Brooks plays funky and uplifting house and dance anthems. Lo-Profile, Wardour St, W1F 0TQ (020 7734 3444). 10pm3am. £8, £5 before midnight.

Africa Utopia: The Ultimate Afrobeats Utopia Edu, Neptizzle and Sef Kombo spin Afrobeat and world music. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX (020 7960 4200/cc 0844 875 0073).

8.30pm-late. £10, concs £5.

Yoyo Leo Greenslade, Seb Chew and guests supply hip-hop, dubstep, garage and grime.

Notting Hill Arts Club, Notting Hill Gate, W11 3JQ (020 7460 4459).

7.30pm-2am. £7, £5 before 11pm.

The Cock 10 Year Anniversary Party Mark Moore, Prince Julia, DJ Rokk and Jim Stanton supply dance beats and electronica.

XOYO, Cowper St, EC2A 4AP (020 7729 5959). 9pm-late. £8.

Moondance Camden Palace Reunion Micky Finn, DJ Sy, Ratpack, Randall And Kenny Ken and guests supply oldschool rave and dance beats.

Koko, Camden High St, NW1 7JE (0870 432 5527). 9pm-5am. £20.

Rising Label Party House night with Chris Lake, Marco Lys, Nelski, Rich Barnard and Dan Jackson in the main room, plus Jason Chance, Tobie Allen and Haran Delucas in room two. Fire, Arch, 39-43 Parry St, corner South Lambeth Rd, SW8 1RT (020 3242 0040).

10pm-6am. Adv £10.

Tempo Eterno Residents and Hemisphere DJs supply house, tech-house and progressive beats.

Gigalum, Cavendish Parade, Clapham Common South Side, SW4 9DW (020 8772 0303). 7pm-late. Free.

Tief Jus-Ed, Lawrence, Jay Shepheard, Iron Curtis, Toshiya Kawasaki, Tad Wily and Thick As Thieves provide house, electronica and disco. Corsica Studios, Elephant Rd, SE17 1LB (020 7703 4760).

10pm-6am. Adv £10-£15.

Viet Party DJs Red & Blue, T-One, Phuong Pharreal, D-Viant, Dr Grey and guests spin R‘n’B and Latin beats. Club Colosseum, Nine Elms Ln, SW8 5NQ (020 7720 3609). 11pm-6am. £20.

Sunday 22 Beyond 3am DJs Steve Pitron, Sharp Boys, Rob Sykes, Paul Heron, Fat Tony, HiFi Sean, Paul Christian, Jamie Head, The Oli, Jonny M and guests spin house, electro and techno across three rooms.

Area, Albert Embankment, SE1 7HD (020 7091 0080). 3am-noon. £10.

Horse Meat Disco Residents Jim Stanton, Luke Howard, James Hillard and Severino spin disco and house on rotation.

Eagle, Kennington Ln, SE11 5QY (020 7793 0903). 8pm-3am. £6.

Showtime DJ Phatman plays house, electro, R‘n’B and chart. Sound, Leicester Sq, WC2H 7NA (0333 240 1010).

10pm-3am. £10, £5 before 11pm.

Sunday Momentum DJs spin party tunes and dance anthems.

Gigalum, Cavendish Parade, Clapham Common South Side, SW4 9DW (020 8772 0303). 7pm-late. Free.

Give L ife to a family Many couples are unable to fall pregnant alone. As one of the UK’s leading fertility clinics, The Centre for Reproductive and Genetic Health brings new life to families.

But we need your help!

If you are a woman between the ages of 20 and 35 and may be interested in donating your eggs, we’d like to hear from you. All donors can be compensated for their time. &DOO -R\ *UHHQ RQ WR ¿QG RXW PRUH

The Centre for Reproductive & Genetic Health

e-mail: info@crgh.co.uk

Website: www.crgh.co.uk

The new food&wine experience FernandoWine and Winexplorer present “Taste&Match�, a new food&wine experience! After becoming famous in Italy in cities like Rome, Milan, Venice and Turin, Fernando choose London as the first city to start the european tour!

The 20th of July, at Divertimenti’s cookery school, the appointment involves 7 chefs (between supper clubs and food bloggers). They will cook 7 recipes for 7 italian wines.

Each visitor will taste 7 dishes with 7 glasses of wine.

The purpose of the evening is to make you understand how the right combinations of food and wine can bring out the full potential of both;

Food Bloggers + Supper Clubs Recipes

Friday, 20th July 2012 starting from 7pm

Wines + DJ Set

ONLY 100 TICKETS AVAILABLE

TICKETS: At desk: £60 GBP > SAVE 20% OFF > buy on-line for only £48 WHERE: Divertimenti’s cookery school, 227-229 Brompton Road London, Greater London SW3 2EP, UK BOOKING: Reservation required www.winexplorer.co.uk

Phone: +44 (0)20 8123 2307 / +44 7582866507 TNTMAGAZINE.COM

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HOW TO ENTER

Go to tntmagazine.com/competitions. See webpage for terms and conditions. Winners will be selected at random.

TICKETS TO AN EVENING OF BURLESQUE Direct from London’s West End, the UK’s first and only touring burlesque show is coming to THE INDIGO2 on Friday, October 26, 2012.

And TNT has teamed up with the producers of the superb An Evening Of Burlesque to give away 10 pairs of tickets to see the show.

Showcasing award-winning talent from across the country, it’s an opportunity to see some of the world’s biggest burlesque stars in the flesh.

Theatregoers are promised corsets, killer heels and stockings aplenty. An Evening Of Burlesque features an all-star cast of beautiful and elegant performers.

Sparkling with couture costumes recalling the golden eras of burlesque, it’s the most glamorous show on tour.

Prepare for a combination of sultry vocals, breathtaking choreography, mischief, magic, frivolity and fun.

It’s all tease, no sleaze, bringing variety back to the theatre, combining musical and theatrical parody, magic, comedy and dance with the art of striptease.

An Evening Of Burlesque comes to town fresh from an international tour at the beginning of 2012.

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PREVIOUS WINNERS TNT 1504: BESPOKE MILK PHOTO ALBUM: Ian Anthony Dowson, Wendy Harvey, Jasmin Hussain

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MONDAY 16

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Emma Davis The London-born singer-songwriter performs quirky and intimate folk-pop.

The Slaughtered Lamb, Great Sutton St, EC1V 0DX (020 7253 1516). £6.50.

Charlotte Gainsbourg And Connan Mockasin The Londonborn singer and actress performs indie-rock from the album Stage Whisper with the musician.

Somerset House, The Strand, WC2R 1LA (020 7845 4600). £25.

Lorraine Jordan Irish, Celtic and Welsh folk by the Londonbased singer-songwriter.

The Green Note Cafe, Parkway, NW1 7AN (020 7485 9899). Adv £8.

Knights Of The Realm, This Broadcast, From The Ashes, Narrow Plains Classic rock by the London-based band.

100 Club, Oxford St, W1D 1LL (020 7636 0933). £10, adv £8.

Lady Antebellum The countrypop three-piece from Nashville performs material from its album Own The Night. HMV Apollo, Queen Caroline St, W6 9QH (0843 221 0100). £30.

Geo Wyeth Experimental rock singer-songwriter from Brooklyn.

Soho Theatre, Dean St, W1D 3NE (020 7478 0100). £10-£15.

Lianne La Havas Soul and alt pop from the London-based singer-songwriter in support of the album Is Your Love Big Enough? Village Underground, Holywell Ln, EC2A 3PQ (020 7422 7505). £16.25. Also Tue. Dylan LeBlanc The American singer-songwriter performs country, folk and Americana.

The Lexington, Pentonville Rd, N1 9JB (020 7837 5371). Adv £12.

M83 Electronica and pop

by French musician Anthony Gonzalez and colleagues.

Somerset House, The Strand, WC2R 1LA (020 7845 4600). £25.

Needtobreathe, The Dunwells The American band plays Southern Christian rock from the album The Reckoning. O2 Academy Islington, Parkfield St, N1 0PS (020 7288 4400/ cc 0844 477 2000). £14.

Suis La Lune, Veils, We Came Out Like Tigers Screamo and hardcore by the Swedish band.

The Old Blue Last, Great Eastern St, EC2A 3ES (020 7739 7033). Adv £6.

TUESDAY 17 Bliss N Eso Hip-hop by the award-winning crew from Sydney. The Garage, Highbury Corner, N5 1RD (0870 060 3777/ cc 0844 847 1678). £17.50.

Cameo The American outfit plays funk, rock and soul.

The Jazz Cafe, Parkway, NW1 7PG (020 7485 6834/cc 0870 060 3777).

Adv £32.50. Also Wed to Fri. Paloma Faith The soul and pop singer-songwriter from London performs songs from the album Fall To Grace. Somerset House, The Strand, WC2R 1LA (020 7845 4600). £25. Also Wed. David Ford, Piney Gir Commercial Americana from the Eastbournebased singer-songwriter.

The Lexington, Pentonville Rd, N1 9JB (020 7837 5371). Adv £15.

The Golden Retrievers, Turnstile Junkpile The London-based band plays harmonious folk-pop. The Slaughtered Lamb, Great Sutton St, EC1V 0DX (020 7253 1516). £6.50.

Legendary Shack Shakers, The Dirt Daubers The Tennessee-based four-piece and self-proclaimed inventors of Southern Gothic plays hillbilly punk-rock. The Borderline, Orange Yard, Manette St, W1D 4JB (0870 060 3777/cc 0871 231 0842). £13.

EL-P Scala. Sept 12. £14+ It’s been five years since Jaime Meline released an album. Now his back with Cancer For Cure. Expect dark hip hop beats and sharp rhymes at this gig.

N1 9NL

King’s Cross

scala-london.co.uk

Madonna The multi-million selling American singersongwriter, actress, director and entrepreneur performs pop in support of her album MDNA. Hyde Park, W2 2UH (0300 061 2000). £70 & £125.

Mike And The Mechanics Rock from the London-based band formed by songwriter and Genesis guitarist Mike Rutherford. O2 Shepherd’s Bush Empire, Shepherd’s Bush Green, W12 8TT (020 8354 3300/ cc 0844 477 2000). £30.

Miss Hoodoo & The Delta Boys, Rhys Lewis The London-based band plays blues and soul.

Floridita, Wardour St, W1F 0TN (020 7314 4042). £10

Name Your Heroes, Goko, Hag, Echo’s In Vapor Pop-punk by the London-based band.

Buffalo Bar, Upper St, N1 1RU (020 7359 6191). £7, adv £5.

The Pharcyde Alt hip-hop collective based in South Central Los Angeles. Koko, Camden High St, NW1 7JE (0870 432 5527). Adv £20.

Nite Jewel, Magic Eye, Nicholas Krgovich Lo-fi electronic pop and alt dance from the American singer-songwriter and producer.

XOYO, Cowper St, EC2A 4AP (020 7729 5959). £9.

Sun Dogs Indie, punk and rock covers band featuring members of Beeker, The Rogueflys and Flat Stanley.

The Vortex Jazz Club, Dalston Culture House, Gillett St, N16 8JH (020 7254 4097). £12, adv £10.

Warbringer, Em Street, Necroriser The American band plays thrash metal from the album Worlds Torn Asunder. The Barfly, Camden, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AN (0844 847 2424). Adv £10.

WEDNESDAY 18 Africa Utopia: Oumou Sangare & Bela Fleck The singer and banjo player perform world music and folk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX (020 7960 4200/cc 0844 875 0073). £10-£27.50, concs £5-£13.75.

Dr John The veteran Grammy award-winning singer-songwriter and multi-instrumentalist performs blues from the album Locked Down. Under The Bridge, Fulham Rd, SW6 1HS (020 7957 8261). £30-£50. Also Thu. Glowhearts, Rachel Collins, Raast Indie-rock by the London-based band. The Good Ship, Kilburn High Rd, NW6 7JR (07949 008253). £6.

Las Kellies, Skinny Girl Diet, Keebo The Buenos Airesbased band plays post-punk.

The Windmill, Blenheim Gardens, SW2 5BZ (020 8671 0700). £7, adv £6.

Emily Portman, Blue Rose Code Contemporary folk from the Newcastle-based singersongwriter in support of the album Hatchling. The Slaughtered Lamb, Great Sutton St, EC1V 0DX (020 7253 1516). £12.50, adv £9.50.

Jonathan Wilson The American singer-songwriter performs folk-rock from the album Gentle Spirit. The Lexington, Pentonville Rd, N1 9JB (020 7837 5371). £15.

Geo Wyeth Experimental rock singer from Brooklyn. Soho Theatre, Dean St, W1D 3NE (020 7478 0100). £10-£15. Also Thu to Sat.

THURSDAY 19 Atlas Sound Dream pop and experimental indie from singersongwriter and Deerhunter frontman Bradford Cox. The Scala, Pentonville Rd, N1 9NL (020 7833 2022/ cc 0844 477 1000). Adv £12.50.

Claudia Brucken The German singer performs synthpop. With guest musicians Glenn Gregory, Martyn Ware, Andy McCluskey.

Paul Humphreys, Susanne Freytag and Andrew Poppy.

Bush Hall, Uxbridge Rd, W12 7LJ (020 8222 6955). £25.

Kimya Dawson The American anti-folk singer performs songs from the album Thunder Thighs.

St-Giles-In-The-Fields, St Giles High St, WC2H 8LG (020 7240 2532/ cc 020 7403 3331). £12.

Xtatic Soul and funk outfit fronted by Vanessa Haynes.

Dover St Restaurant And Bar, Dover St, W1S 4LQ (020 7629 9813). £12, free before 10pm.

Yndi Halda, John Chantler Postrock by the Canterbury-based band. Hoxton Hall, Hoxton St, N1 6SH (020 7684 0060). £14.

FRIDAY 20 Alonestar Alt hip-hop by the London-based artist. Roundhouse, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8EH (0844 482 8008). £12.50 & £16.

Francis And Boyd, The Isis, Joanna Vijaykumar, Innata The Londonbased band plays indie-folk.

The Troubadour, Old Brompton Rd, SW5 9JA (020 7370 1434). £7.

Mann The Los Angeles-based rapper performs hip-hop from the album Mann’s World.

Proud 2, Peninsula Sq, SE10 0DX (020 8463 3070). £22.50.

Ministry, Djerv The Chicagobased six-piece, featuring lead singer Al Jourgensen, plays industrial metal from the album Relapse. HMV Forum, Highgate Rd, NW5 1JY (020 7428 4099). £20.

Darrell Scott The Nashville-based singer-songwriter performs folk, roots-rock and Americana. Leicester Square Theatre, Leicester Place, WC2H 7BX (0844 873 3433). £17.50.

Skinny Machines The Londonbased quartet plays alt rock.

The Lexington, Pentonville Rd, N1 9JB (020 7837 5371). Adv £8.

Geo Wyeth Experimental rock singer-songwriter from Brooklyn.

Soho Theatre, Dean St, W1D 3NE (020 7478 0100). £10-£15.

SATURDAY 21 Africa Utopia: Muntu Valdo The Cameroonian singer-songwriter performs soulful world-pop, blues and jazz. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX (020 7960 4200/ cc 0844 875 0073). £12.50, concs £6.25.

Chelsea, The Duel, Max Splodge, The Phobics, The Mercanaries The London-based band plays classic punk. 100 Club, Oxford St, W1D 1LL (020 7636 0933). Adv £10.

Damage The R‘n’B boy band reunites to perform its hits including Wonderful Tonight and Ghetto Romance. The Jazz Cafe, Parkway, NW1 7PG (020 7485 6834/ cc 0870 060 3777). Adv £10.

London 2012 Cultural Olympiad: The Black Arm Band And 9Bach, Frank Yamma, Wantok Musik Sing Sing, Gurrumul The Australian indigenous arts collective unites with the folk group for a musical collaboration exploring place, identity, culture and the preservation of language.

Old Royal Naval College, King William Walk, SE10 9NN (0845 267 2012).

Free, ticketed, adv booking required at www.btriverofmusic.com.

London 2012 Cultural Olympiad: Scissor Sisters Pop and dance from the New York-based group as it plays songs from the album Magic Hour. Tower Of London, Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB (0845 267 2012/cc 0844 482 7799). Free, ticketed, adv booking required at www.btriverofmusic.com.

Billy Ocean R‘n’B, pop and soul from the Trinidad-born singer best known for the hits When The Going Gets Tough, The Tough Get Going and Love Really Hurts Without You. Under The Bridge, Fulham Rd, SW6 1HS (020 7957 8261). £27.50.

Geo Wyeth Experimental rock singer-songwriter from Brooklyn.

Soho Theatre, Dean St, W1D 3NE (020 7478 0100). £10-£15.

SUNDAY 22 Fernando’s Kitchen World, African and Latin music by the London-based band. Rich Mix, Bethnal Green Rd, E1 6LA (020 7613 7498). £13, adv £10.

London 2012 Cultural Olympiad: The Black Arm Band, The Barons Of Tang, Coastal Voices, Green Fire Islands The Australian indigenous arts collective performs folk and world music.

Old Royal Naval College, King William Walk, SE10 9NN (0845 267 2012).

Free, ticketed, adv booking required at www.btriverofmusic.com.

London 2012 Cultural Olympiad: Jools Holland & His Rhythm & Blues Orchestra, Saxophone Massive, Beverley Knight R‘n’B and jazz by the keyboard player and TV presenter with his colleagues.Somerset House, The Strand, WC2R 1LA (0845 267 2012). Free, ticketed, adv booking required at www.btriverofmusic.com.

London 2012 Cultural Olympiad: Krar Collective, Muntu Valdo, Staff Benda Bilili & Zao, The Noisettes World music outfit from Ethiopia.

London Pleasure Gardens, Caledonian Rd, N1 1BA (0845 267 2012). Free, ticketed, adv booking required at www.btriverofmusic.com.

Plug’d In showcase Featuring performances from JFXMusic, Zophia, Milly Mae, Richkids, Vibeadeliks, Interstellar Graffiti Artists, The Clef Truants, Next Time Natalie, Lady Gray, Artifacts, King Of Hearts, I Forgot and The Survival Code. O2 Academy Islington, Parkfield St, N1 0PS (020 7288 4400/ cc 0844 477 2000). £12.

The Tubes Satirical and shockrock by the San Franciscobased veterans. Leicester Square Theatre, Leicester Place, WC2H 7BX (0844 873 3433). £25.

TNTMAGAZINE.COM

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Spray it with love Street art has hit the mainstream. TNT delves into the world of graffiti, and the characters making London colourful WORDS CAROL DRIVER It’s early morning when the Graffiti Life artists get to work on the larger-than-life TNT Magazine painting. Something this detailed and of this proportion can take the lads hours to perfect, so, armed with various cans of coloured spray paint, Adam Brazier and David Speed are prepared for the long haul. They’ve located a just-waiting-to-be-graffitied white wall – the perfect blank canvas for their work of art. However, it appears that it might take longer than they expected – no sooner have they sprayed the first few marks, they’re interrupted by the screeches of a less-thanimpressed woman who lives nearby. She’s unhappy that they’re “vandalising“ a wall within view of her house. She doesn’t want to have to look at “rubbish graffiti“, she wails.

So the lads are forced to prove they’ll paint over the finished design by going to buy cans of emulsion.

Graffiti is illegal – despite the impression given by highprofile street art in the capital, and the numerous tours which are springing up, fuelled by the public’s desire to jump on the bandwagon the likes of Banksy have started. The illustrious artist has done wonders for putting what was once considered an eyesore on the agenda. But, for those not quite as famous, there’s still a way to go.

“Banksy works now get protected and covered with plexiglass, but if you’re a lesser-known name, you’ll be arrested,“ Speed, 29, explains. “This hypocrisy isn’t Banksy’s fault, but surely the law is the law, and he should be as accountable as a kid tagging a bus stop.“ Speed, known as ’B’, and Brazier are two of about 20 artists in the UK who form street art outfit Graffiti Life.

Brought together by a love of what they did – sometimes illegally – they started off in 2008, offering murals, painting home interiors and exteriors. Now, the company is riding a wave of interest. From hosting events, such as the one in Boxpark in Shoreditch on July 29 – giving away 100 pieces of unique urban art – to running workshops and being sought-after by global brands, they've come a long way since the days of spraying while trying not to get caught.

“We all took very different paths to get to where we are now,“ Brazier, 23, admits. “Some of our artists painted illegally for many years and had frequent brushes with the law. Some of the crew went to art school and gained degrees and master’s in fine art. Some did both. Some are tattooists, some are graphic designers but the one common bond

between us is graffiti art.“ B adds that despite the edgy, glamorous image associated with street art and the talent behind it today, as individual artists when Graffiti Life was first getting off the ground, they faced a crossroads.

“It got to the stage where we were seeing friends go to prison for graf – it was either carry on down that path or do something positive with the art,“ he says. “Graffiti is such a powerful medium, and it may sound dramatic, but I’ve seen it change people’s lives. It’s certainly changed mine.

“All of a sudden we were given the opportunity to make our living doing the same thing we’d been arrested for previously and promote graffiti as a positive artform along the way.“ The artists hit the ground running at the right time, coming to the fore just as public perception started to change. However, although Graffiti Life, which is based in trendy east London, is thriving, money can still be seen as a dirty word on the street art scene. Purists argue those who make cash from spraying are selling out. But B says he has “paid his dues“ by working illegally when he was younger, and has moved on – and is now approached by huge companies, wanting Graffiti Life to boost their brands with ››

Hard at work: Graffiti Life TNTMAGAZINE.COM

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Clockwise: Brazier and B working on the cover; model Amie Conradine; the finished design

28

cover, to come up with a concept that shows how street art is emerging into the mainstream, how it’s now more accepted.

They’ve chosen to paint their friend, Amie Conradine – a blue-haired model who has graced the cover of Bizarre magazine. “Rather than just a straight portrait, we thought it would be interesting to paint an artist in the foreground, as if the portrait was being finished by this character,“ B says.

In total, the lads work on the design for about 10 hours – so it’s almost heartbreaking when they have to paint over

“

Covering an artist’s work is declaring war

”

the final piece. Afterwards, to the naked eye, you’d never know it had been there. Brazier says it isn’t as bad as when an artist’s work is sprayed over by another ’writer’.

“Traditionally, covering another artist’s work is seen as a declaration of war,“ he explains.

It’s something Banksy must now be used to. Last year, one of his murals, said to be worth £100,000, was painted over by bungling council workers in Bristol, causing outrage.

However, that’s not something that would worry B, who admits the artist’s work isn’t to his personal taste. But he does acknowledge how the perception of street painting has changed thanks to the satirical artist – who has never revealed his real identity – but that doesn’t necessarily make him popular on the scene.

“Without Banksy we wouldn’t be doing this for a living,“ B says. “He is probably the most well-known artist in the world and made people pay attention to street art.

“Within graffiti he’s pretty universally hated, but a lot of that is probably jealousy. Most graffiti artists want fame, who is more famous than Banksy?“ ❚ For more info about Graffiti Life, see graffitilife.co.uk or like them on Facebook facebook.com/graffitilife

Photos: TNT; Graffit Life

a touch of street art cool. “As far as I’m concerned, I’d rather do what I love everyday than ’keeping it real’, working a job I hate and only painting at the weekend.“ And B believes his team have earned it. “People have been making money from graffiti since it was first popularised in the late Seventies. But people who get into street art just to get paid don’t make good work,“ he says.

“They will copy what’s made money before and their work won’t be credible or original.“ Brazier agrees: “You can spot it a mile away, pseudopolitical messages, Banksy rip offs, all following the same formula. If you’ve never actually made work in the streets and you use that title to sell paintings, then you’re a fraud!“ Although B admits to missing the adrenaline rush of painting illegally, he says he now gets his kicks from pushing the artform.

Brazier adds: “One day we could be painting a cartoon character in a kid’s bedroom, the next, we’re painting a huge billboard for a big brand. Highlights include working for companies such as Nike and Disney. We’ve also painted live at Glastonbury and made a few TV appearances.

“Our favourite projects are where we’re encouraged to just be creative and aren’t tied down to a specific a brief.“ And it’s not just homegrown talent which is thriving in London – the shift is being felt worldwide, with the capital the go-to for international artists.

US guerilla street artist Shepard Fairey has recently been in town painting a 42-metre-high stencil promoting free speech for the newly opened London Pleasure Gardens.

The 42-year-old, who was behind the Barack Obama ’Hope’ poster, called the capital a “great“ city for street art, because it’s so densely populated. While Numskull, from Sydney, is one of 39 international artists displaying his art as part of Bethnal Green-based High Roller Society’s Good Times Roll exhibition.

But, as our TNT cover shoot displays, despite the popularity of street art, there are some stragglers from a bygone era who see it as an eyesore, as vandalism which shouldn’t be celebrated. And, as well as that opposition, it’s also hard work. The lads have been given a brief for the TNT TNTMAGAZINE.COM

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Dan Kieran The author on the art of slow travel and why we need to change the way we think about our lives INTERVIEW ALASDAIR MORTON

How did your new book, The Idle Traveller, come about?

Mainly because of a fear of flying. It is something I’m not proud of, but everyone else feels they have to lecture me about it: ‘You have to get over this.’ I flew a lot when I was younger – to the US and Egypt – but I have had to do slow trips because of the fear. My best friend, who lives in Poland, asked me to be his best man, and I decided I wouldn’t fly, which, back then, wasn’t seen as an interesting thing to do.

How did the journey go?

I had a particularly long and painful trip – the IRA fired a mortar at the MI6 building by Waterloo on the day I left, so I missed that train and all my meticulously planned connections.

I got stranded at Cologne station at midnight and talked my way on to a train to Berlin. The convenience was taken out, but I really enjoyed it. When I got to the hotel, I saw my friends had moved to Poland but they hadn’t travelled. They were talking about bands and everything we talked about at home and I was talking about all the stuff I had seen.

What experiences did you have?

I gave an English lesson to a schoolkid on the train with his mum; I saw all these commuters who all looked like Fast Tony from The Fast Show; and I chatted to this Russian soldier who had just deserted his post and was on the run. All my friends laughed, though, as they would be home for the News At Ten, and I wouldn’t be home for another 24 hours.

It’s different to trying to do as much on holiday as you can ...

It’s a different concept. It got me away from box ticking – I didn’t see any of the sights. You approach holidays from a consumer standpoint, but I had this extraordinary experience that made my brain leap around and think about lots of different things.

How have people responded?

One guy said he had often slow travelled and had felt some of the things that I write about.

Lots have said that they think it is not really about travel, but more about philosophically considering life.

Hurry up and slow down!

How has your outlook on life changed?

When I did the best man speech in Poland, I didn’t speak Polish, so I got the bride to write the speech in Polish phonetically for me.

Everyone laughed, but I didn’t really understand what I was doing and I have this theory that we all live like that – we don’t do things properly, we do phonetic versions of activities and travel phonetically. We live our lives phonetically.

People have said they are applying what they read not just to travel, but to their lives, too. So it is a travel book of the mind.

Is it important to travel on your own?

It is a different experience – it is meditative. In 24 hours, you say only 100 words, and it’s where your mind goes that is interesting; you question your life and who you are. When people talk of finding themselves, it is because they are more conscious of inhabiting their life, and you are literally more conscious when you travel slowly.

When you do your job and the commute and the same shit everyday, you are just on autopilot.

Do you still do beach holidays?

Yes. We did one, we went to a Hilton hotel in the hills in Sorrento, with a swimming pool and on the face of it, it was a ghastly holiday. But we bookended it with two weekends, in Paris and Rome, so the poolside holiday just became one point of a travel experience.

What was the most memorable aspect of your book Three Men In A Float, in which you drive across the UK on a milkfloat?

You see the whole scene, not just part of it. When I told people about that idea, they all said: ‘Are you mad?’ But I thought: ‘What died in you that made you think this is not a brilliant idea?’

What do you miss through slow travel?

I would love to go to Tokyo, and America, but it is quite hard to carve out the time in your life to do these things. But that tells you more about our lives and trying to fit travel into them. It’s not that I need to fly, but that I need to make my life different. When you’re on your deathbed, are you going to be thinking about Marbella? No way.

I will be thinking about milk floats.

What else has slow travel taught you?

It’s only in the past few hundreds of thousand years that people have been as we are now, with languages, cooking and their behaviour.

Only in the last 5000 years have we stopped being nomadic. With farming in 2000 or 3000 BC, we began to see our lives as taking place in one location, prior to that we were hunter gatherers.

We are a travelling species.

The Idle Traveller by Dan Kieran is out now through AA Publishing dankieran.com

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‘You call this bodypaint? I’m gonna fuck you up’

I AM BRUCE LEE FILM review by Alasdair Morton STARRING: Bruce Lee, Linda Lee Cadwell | 15 | 95mins

THE ART OF RAP FILM STARRING: Ice-T, Dr Dre | TBC | 111mins

Rapper and former FBI scourge Ice T (above, with Eminem) tells a coast-tocoast tale of rap, from its roots through its Eighties and Nineties heyday and journey to mainstream acclaim. It covers the misogyny, those seeking to cast it as a cultural fall guy and the uptake by the white middle class. The European premiere is complemented with a London show featuring Ice T and Public Enemy’s Chuck D on Jul 19.

On general release from July 20.

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He was “the Elvis of martial arts,” according to actor and former boxer Mickey Rourke, just one of the many random talking heads in this doco. A martial artist first and foremost, but also a philosopher, Hollywood star and, not to mention, Hong Kong’s 1965 cha-cha champion, Lee was the man to give Chinese men balls, as one puts it here, yet Pete McCormack’s (2009’s Facing Ali) effort is more about Lee’s legacy than being a thorough biography.

I Am Bruce Lee instead considers his formative years, before shifting to examine Lee’s impact – on those around him, on martial arts and on those for whom his teachings are a blueprint for their lives (Manny Pacquiao models his hair after Lee).

I Am … shifts through his Lee’s younger years: his birth in San Francisco in 1940 before moving to Hong Kong at three months old and his trouble with the law and with gangs before returning to the US at 18, where he taught martial arts. MA was Lee’s focus – his means for expressing himself – and his move into film was never his intention. His interracial marriage – a rarity in 1964 – is only briefly touched upon, so, too, the ostracising he suffered on account of having Caucasian blood.

The film tells of Lee’s thirst for literature and philosophy, and his ‘no style’ form of wing chun, but the focus shifts more to his impact, with many debating his role as innovator and driving influence behind what would go on to become MMA. This drive, while interesting and informative, renders the doco more about what others think of Lee than what Lee himself thought. As a result, it’s not quite a knock out.

GOOD FOR: Diehard Bruce Lee and martial arts fans

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GIVE US A

RHYS DARBY – THIS WAY TO SPACESHIPS

GIGGLE!

COMEDY

Murray, the misguided band manager from Flight Of The Conchords, also known by his real-world name Rhys Darby, hits London with his first UK headline tour. Adapted from his surreal (semi) autobiography, this tells of Darby’s life as viewed from an escaping spaceship – for VIPs – come the end of the world. Of course.

Ha ha!

Shepherd’s Bush Empire Shepherd’s Bush Green, W12 8TT. July 20-23. £21.50 Shepherd’s Bush ticketweb.co.uk

CREATE 2012: DAVID BAILEY’S EAST END

THE WINTER’S TALE

EXHIBITION

THEATRE

Famed photographer and Londoner David Bailey presents this collection of photos of the East End in all its glory over the years. It examines the organised-crime days of the Sixties and the dilapidation of the Eighties through to the area’s rejuvenation as one of the capital’s hippest areas and, now, home to the Olympics.

Under the direction of Edward Hall, all-male touring theatre company Propeller tackles this, and Henry V, with speed, clarity and invention.

Its take on the Bard’s comedic romance has a lot going for it, especially when it leaves the formal King Leontes and the mood softens, but it is the latter production that impresses most.

Compressor House Royal Docks, E16 2QD. Until Aug 5. £6 Royal Albert DLR createlondon.org

Hampstead Theatre Eton Avenue, NW3 3EU. Until July 21. £22+ Swiss Cottage hampsteadtheatre.com

ROB DEERING What’s your new show, The One, about? I’m a 21st-century one-man band in search of the ultimate song, the ultimate high, the ultimate night out ... it’s exciting. And funny. And loud. I’ve put everything into it – it’s a big year for me.

What is it about authority that irks you? It’s innate; I just won’t be told. It doesn’t have to be a recognised authority – it’s as likely to be an advert or my mum as the police or, like, the government.

Photos: Manuel Harlan

Who’s your comedy idol? I don’t have one. I’m a magpie – Steve Martin, You’ve Been Framed – whatever’s making me laugh.

Early Steve Martin obviously.

SWANDOWN

HENRY V

FILM

THEATRE

Rather than the codename for some obscure, royal-themed special forces op, this is a documentary about oddball artist Andrew Kötting and writer/ psychogeographer Iain Sinclair, who decided to travel 160 miles from Hastings to Hackney on a pedalo shaped like a swan. Recounting their adventures, this is the most peculiar film to hit screens this week/ ever.

This second Shakespeare offering, with its testosterone-fuelled soldiers in battle-stained combats acting as participants and chorus, is a different affair. They sing and chant as they follow their king into battle against the French.

It’s a vibrant and powerful, capturing the rowdiness, camaraderie and sad waste of war.

On general release from July 20

Hampstead Theatre Eton Avenue, NW3 3EU. Until July 21. £22+ Swiss Cottage hampsteadtheatre.com

What event would you compete in at the Olympics? Distance running – I love it, like Forrest Gump, and I could run out of the stadium and far away to wherever the people that couldn’t give a monkey’s toss about the Olympics are hiding.

The One Edinburgh preview, Comedy Bunker. July 19. £12 HA4 7DQ West Ruislip robdeering.com The One, Pleasance Courtyard, 8.15pm.

Edinburgh Festival Fringe. Aug 1- 27

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SPARETIME

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The Sims 3 Diesel Stuff Pack

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Julia’s brother goes solo, and leaves the folk behind. £8.95 base.com

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Adam Lambert: Trespassing

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London 2012 Official Results App

Book

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Greatest Moments Of The Olympics

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The struggles, the tears and the triumph in one neat little disc. Do it. £4.00 amazon.co.uk

App of the Week London Official City Guide iPhone

Even astute city slickers will be confounded by this summer’s cultural overload, so here’s a helping hand from Boris Johnson.

Free visitlondon.com/apps

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£50 FOOTWEAR VOUCHER FROM RUBBERSOLE.CO.UK T and footwear site Rubbersole.co.uk have teamed up to give six lucky readers a £50 footwear voucher to spend online.

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Men’s skinny jeans Shake a leg in these turquoise babies.

Key West Blue Hawaiian shirt Flower prints are a blooming marvellous addition to any fashionista fella’s wardrobe.

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OPEN 10am-8pm daily, until September 1. hm.com St Martin’s Courtyard, 9 Mercer Street, WC2; Westfield Stratford City, E20 Covent Garden; Stratford

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LIFESTYLEHEALTH CLASS OF THE WEEK

BIKE2BASICS We all love festivals, but nothing is as miserable as the traffic-ridden, stuffy ride there. How about going with the wind in your hair, sunshine on your face, and music blasting from the stereo of the guide’s bike next to you? Much better.

Bike2basics is a new company run by Lucy Lynn-Evans, who became passionate about cycling after being run over by a truck left bikes as her only option for comfortable, efficient mobility.

Bike2basics organises biking trips to festivals around the UK and larger jaunts around Europe, with about 10 people per group. And, no, you don’t need to be a contender for the London Olympics cycling team to participate. The tours are conducted mostly on flat ground at a relaxed pace so that most everybody can handle it. You don’t even need to worry about your baggage, for £5 they will transport it in a van for you. You do need your own bike (although include a rental service will be available soon) and your own transportation back to London.

Three festival tours are already planned for this summer: Secret Garden Party on July 19. Playgroup Festival on August 3, and Wilderness Festival on August 10. trips cost about £20 each.

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High intensity Expect the unexpected as you take your strength and fitness to a new level with Crossfit London WORDS JAHN VANNISSELROY

It’s 7pm on a Wednesday evening and I’m lying on the sweat-splattered floor of a Bethnal Green gym. If I could get up, I’d be able to see the 10 other people in varying stages of exhaustion, but instead, as the lactic acid fills my muscles, I can only listen to their gasping and groaning. When that sound subsides, and my heartrate returns to normal, instead of self pity, I’m overcome with an immense feeling of achievement.

A Crossfit workout known as ‘Fight Gone Bad’ put me in this state. Designed to replicate the output needed in a mixed martial arts round, it consists of one minute of as many reps as I can manage of each of the following: hurling a 9kg medicine ball at target up a wall; a 35kg sumo deadlift high pull; a 35kg push-press; a jump on to a 20inch box; and a row sprint. Three times.

Extreme? A little, but it’s just another day at Crossfit London, the mirrorless, machineless gym owned and operated

by Andrew Stemler. Crossfit, a worldwide fitness phenomenon initially developed in 2000 by American Greg Glassman, is

a strength development and conditioning programme that employs “constantly varied, high intensity, functional movement”. And as I, and hundreds of other Londoners, have discovered, it works.

At Crossfit, rather than chasing fads, participants use tried-and-trusted exercises that engage the core – squats, deadlifts, pulls and presses. Skills sessions are followed by a 15-to-20-minute brutal workout (different each day) that will push Crossfitters both mentally and physically. No Zumba, no bullshit; just correct movements, conducted with weights, performed at top speed.

Thanks to the patient guidance of Stemler and his personal trainers, in six months, I manage to lift more than I ever could before – largely due to the expert coaching in relation to form I’m given – can run faster and for longer, jump higher, have a stronger core and an all-round feeling of strength and wellbeing.

Whichever day I turn up on, I’ve no idea what punishment I’m going to be subjected to. It keeps me guessing and keeps me interested. That, says Stemer, is part of

bike2basics.com

The writer put through his paces 38

No pain, no gain

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Puma Green for Men It’s the season to smell athletic £9.50 thefragranceshop.co.uk

Crossfit: are you man enough?

Crossfit’s success. “The modern plague, both in sport and in working life seems to be doing things repetitively. But there seems to be massive improvements made by varying what you do in a way that’s out of your control,” he says.

“If you choose your workouts, you get to pick what you like. With someone else, you get to train the area you don’t want to, but it’ll the one thing that will do you the most good.”

Crossfit attracts a mainly white-collar crowd, some athletes, but plenty of ‘normal’ citizens simply seeking an improvement in their health and strength.

“The average everyday person is sitting in the gym saying ‘god, this is boring. How do I make it interesting?” Stemler says. ”Crossfit offers out of the machines, out of the routine some disinterested person has written for you, and the chance to test yourself in some genuine ways.” He advises researching Crossfit

first and stresses not getting bullied into it.

“If you’re not motivated, you’ll probably do very badly with us,” he says. “If you’ve worked out you need to lose weight, or need more strength and power, if you’ve got to that mental stage, then you’re ready.”

Today, the memories of my time at Crossfit are present whenever I’m in the gym: that awareness of form I had drilled into me and the understanding that whenever I think I can’t do any more, there’s no doubt I can.

“It’s about work capacity: you’re knackered, but how many more times can you raise that bar while still maintaining quality form and movement?” Stemler says. “You soon develop some very useful benchmarks to judge NEXT WEEK yourself and others How to get by, in terms of fitness.” crossfitlondonuk.com

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Olympic fit

Photos: Thinkstock

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LIFESTYLECAREERS

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A walk in the park: you’ve got to keep the kids active

It’s child’s play A job in nannying is for the energetic and the enthusiastic WORDS REBECCA KENT

There’s a lot to be said for working with children, because nannies have job satisfaction in spades. Liking kids is obviously vital, and, of course, they have to like you, but once you’ve established that, all you need is the right attitude. TNT gets the lowdown.

Loving it, just loving it Nannying is like working in a school, but without the paperwork, says Ternille Dewey, 31, who arrived in the UK from Australia in September. She wanted a job that allowed her to be social, but gave up bar work after one month when she realised nannying paid better.

“I was a primary school teacher back home, so it was a natural progression, but I didn’t want to do the same thing,” Dewey says. “As 40

a nanny I can have one-on-one time with children, and instead of writing reports and doing activities written into a curriculum, we can do such things as bake a cake, just for the fun of it.”

Dewey is a ‘daily’ nanny, travelling Roehampton to Putney to work from 7.30am to 7pm, looking after three kids, aged eight, six and three.

Monday to Friday, she gets them to school, cooks and cleans, and picks them up in the afternoon, before getting them off to their after-school activities, or mucking around with them herself.

She feeds them and has them in bed by the time mum and dad get home.

“The parents don’t expect me to go above and beyond,” she says. “They just want me to make sure their kids are cared for, eating well and having

fun. I feel like I’m living in a home away from home, and I absolutely love it.”

Man up Between chores, and looking after three kids (15, 13 and nine) in Kensington, Richard Barclay, 31, runs the male nanny agency, Manny Poppins (mannypoppins.com).

Good male nannies are rare, he says.

“About one out of every 10 guys I see, I actually give a job to, and it’s the lads from New Zealand or Australia who get them,” he says. “It’s just the way they carry themselves in the interviews.

They’ve got the right attitude, and they’re confident and sporty.”

You don’t need qualifications to work as a nanny, but experience with kids is favoured.

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LIFESTYLECAREERS ON THE JOB CHARLOTTE KNIGHT CAREER Founder, G’NOSH gourmet dips AGE 38 LIVES Fulham FROM Auckland How did you get into your line of work?

I took time out of my demanding corporate job and combined my two favourite loves: food and business.

Cake time: cook up a storm

On yer bike: sporty antipodeans required

Photos: Thinkstock

A home abroad

You can work either NANNY TALES as a live-in or live-out Being a nanny is not all alphabet It’s best to sign with nanny, or work before spaghetti and picking toys up off an agency, which can and after school, during the floor. There’s a social side. negotiate holiday and holidays, ad-hoc, or Nannies in the same area regularly pay for you – about do proxy-parenting meet up, either alone in their £250-£400 net per – having 24-hour downtime, or with their kids in the week, or £9 an hour, responsibility for the park. Find others via meetup.com or working 50 hours kids when the parents cafenanny.com, or ask your agency a week, live-out. aren’t around. about other nannies in your area.

Karen Lynch, of “The hours can be Alternatively, earn extra KiwiOz Nannies long, but the pay is cash when the kids are out, like (kiwioznannies.co.uk), good,” Barclay says.

Windsor-based Kiwi au pair Anna says nannying is a “Some mannies can Kane, 23, who works in a village fulfilling occupation. get between £500 to pub. “Luckily, I work for a fantastic “It’s a nice £1000 a week. I know a family who are really supportive introduction to London guy who does just two – and working in the pub is quite if you’re new here,” hours each morning fun,” she says. she says. “I was a live-in and that’s his job.” for two years and my There are also the family really became perks that come from working with a my own. Sometimes you can use their wealthy family. Barclay, who has mannied car for your own use, and you go on for 10 years, once had a holiday for him holidays with them.” and his girlfriend paid for.

Lynch assures live-in nannies get Barclay says applicants must be almost the same freedoms as living in “sporty, adaptable, fun and energetic”, a houseshare. “OK, so you can’t come and “prepared to run random errands”. home smashing around the house They must also be flexible. drunk at 3am, but you get your own It’s a gruelling interview process. The bathroom and bedroom.” candidate will usually be interviewed Applicants must

by Barclay – or his PA, then the family’s have at least two NEXT WEEK PA. Then they get a grilling from the references, plus parents, and, finally, the kids must have a criminal Workers at the approve. Summer and Christmas are history check, which Olympic Games the best times to apply.

KiwiOz can arrange.

What do you do day-to-day?

Everything from ensuring the production line delivers top quality products, managing delivery logistics, negotiating terms with retailers, in-store sampling, managing shareholders and speaking to customers to get valuable feedback.

What’s the best part of your job?

Nothing beats watching the rewards of sales progress. It’s amazing to see the fruits of my labour coming to life, and seeing customers adoring this product. It’s incredibly satisfying.

What’s the most challenging?

Keeping on top of it all. I work harder and longer now than I did in my corporate career – and I don’t get paid for it yet. It’s all worth it, though. gnosh.co.uk

HOW TO... SURVIVE

THE OLYMPICS

Games tourists are already shoehorning themselves on to public transport. So going with the flow is your only option.

• This is your best excuse yet

to hit home via the pub, and bypass rush hour madness.

• Summer is fleeting in London,

so waking up early to beat the rush means you see more of it.

• Ask the hottie at work to join you for a picnic at the big screens showing the Games.

You might learn more about that ‘winning feeling’.

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tntjobs.co.uk SILVERBACK EVENTS T: 0844 5617939 07595 021939 www.silverbackuk.com Silverback is a provider of premium support crew to production and AV companies within the event sector.

JOB OF THE WEEK: Crew Member Location: London Salary: £8.00 -15.00 per hour Silverback is looking for fit, intelligent, good communicators who can take direction from senior crewmen and clients. You need good social skills and impeccable punctuality and be prepared to work long & sometimes unsocial hours. Typical Duties: Loading / Unloading of vehicles, Rigging of AV equipment, Setting up and dismantling stage and set, Ensuring health & safety requirements are met, Liaising with clients in a professional manner.

Jason@silverbackuk.com | 07712 829348

GALLOWGLASS T: 0845 300 2468 www.gallowglass.co.uk Gallowglass is UKs leading crewing company to the sporting and events industry, working for TV, theatre, film and outdoor production companies.

SKI JOBS FRANCE T: 07824 68 1228 www.skijobsfrance.com.au Ski Jobs France supports travellers to organise a working holiday in France. Guaranteed job or your money back.

SMITHS GORE T: 01356 660 295

JOB OF THE WEEK: Crew Location: London Salary: £8 - £11 per hour + skills payments Gallowglass is involved in many aspects of the 2012 Games as well as our on-going work, and has vacancies for friendly, enthusiastic and outgoing people to join our crew.

You will need to be physically fit, have excellent spoken English, be adaptable, happy to work anti-social hours and have a can-do attitude.

CV to hr@gallowglass.co.uk or fill in our on line form at www.gallowglass.co.uk

JOB OF THE WEEK: Ski Jobs in France Location: French Alps Salary: Competitive Package Ski jobs available in hotels, bars, restaurants, chalets, airport transfers & ski shops.

Dec to May. French speaking not essential, but helps. Assistance applying for French visa for Aussies & Kiwis. Escape the grey British winter. www.skijobsfrance.com.au | info@skijobsfrance.com.au

JOB OF THE WEEK: Grouse Beaters Location: Nr Edzell, Angus Glens, Scotland Salary: Day Rate GROUSE BEATERS REQUIRED on Scottish Sporting estate near Edzell, Angus Glens.

7 weeks from Sunday 12th August. Board and lodgings provided.

5 days per week on day rate.

Dave Donley | 01356 660295 | hunthill@live.com

OLD MILL INN T: 07841 135 190 www.theoldmillpitlochry.co.uk

JOB OF THE WEEK: Bar, Waiting, General Assistants, Reception Location: Pitlochry, Perthshire, Scotland Salary: Excelent rates for successful candidates

Busy bar & restaurant with rooms in rural tourist town highland Perthshire.

All bar work, general waiting duties and reception duties.

SWAN IT RECRUITMENT

JOB OF THE WEEK: Recruitment Consultant all levels Location: Watford Salary: Negotaible DOE

T: 01923 202 777 www.swanitrecruitment.com

Recruitment consultants competitive basic, monthly commission and flexible benefits.

Friendly fun and sociable team. Our SA team staffed mainly by South African nationals focus on South African clients and candidates.

Swan iT Recruitment is enjoying unprecedented success and growth and as a result, we are looking to grow our team at our office in Watford

ORIGIN T: 020 7617 7894 www.origincare.com Live-in roles typically of 2 weeks on and 1 week off. Free specialist training provided with Origin, a dedicated company established over 10 years.

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Call 07847 735 190

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JOB OF THE WEEK: Live-In Carers Location: London & South East Salary: £574 per week Our clients are young adults with a spinal injury. We need positive people to help them live independently. Free accommodation, food and refunded travel expenses!

Promotional prospects and higher rates of pay available.

John Hardy | 020 7617 7894 | johnhardy@origincare.com

13/7/12 14:44:07

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LIFESTYLEMONEY

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CASH-SAVING TIPS

HOW YOU SPEND IT!

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CODY NANCE, 22 JOB Intern FROM Florida, US LIVES Camden How do you budget?

I think about the week ahead of me and try to

Photos: Getty

figure out what I’ll need to pay for and how much I’ll need to pay for it.

Any money-saving tips for living in London?

Set aside a little bit of money each week or month to spend on

HOW THEY SPEND IT! Celebrity big tippers Whenever Dan Akroyd visits his fave Ontario eatery, he tips either US$100 or 50 per cent of the bill. Good bloke …

❚ When Russell Crowe interacts with the service industry, it usually involves a flying phone. However, while in Wales in 2009, he stopped by the Carew Inn in Tenby for a quick pint with friends, and left £600. ❚ Drew Carey dined at Arnie

britishgasswimming.co.uk NOVI SAD /74 COPENHAGEN /70

something you like, instead of just buying a bunch of small stuff regularly.

Last big blow-out?

I actually just bought every season of Full House on DVD. That’s sort of weird, I guess, but I grew up watching it and I’ve always liked it a lot. It cost more than I should have spent, but I caved.

What non-essential items do you spend money on?

You might call them ‘nonessential’, but I really can’t live without Doritos. I try to stay responsible, but I generally overspend on Doritos. They’re too good.

Akroyd: Generous fella

Morton steakhouse in LA in 2008, racking up a $250 (£160) tab and topped it off with a $400 (£255) tip.

❚ Johnny Depp struck up a friendship with a waiter at Gibson’s Steakhouse in Chicago in 2009. He showed his thanks by leaving an extra $4000 (£2555) tip on top of the $4400 (£2833) bill. ❚ David Beckham is living a posh life, but he shares the wealth. After racking up a $100 (£63) tab at an LA restaurant in 2008, he added a zero to the bill as a tip.

Need to send money between UK and home? r Cheapee than th banks*

*Source: 1st Contact survey of UK high street bank charges, April 2008.

0870-898 8996 tntforex.com TNTMAGAZINE.COM

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LIFESTYLELIVING HOME

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A home that floats

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Why be a landlubber when you can live on a houseboat?

WORDS REBECCA KENT

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Living on a houseboat is a romantic notion.

Being rocked to sleep, sipping wine on the deck, waking up to geese at your window – it’s the stuff holidays are made of. But you can have this without going anywhere.

Floating homes range from a central London houseboat with tidal Thames moorings, to pretty canalside garden docks. And, given the current state of the capital’s property market, maybe renting a room on the water is not a bad option. TNT speaks to some boat dwellers to find out what it’s like.

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“It’s very easy to get people to come to you if you’re trying to meet up,” says London showgirl Ophelia Bitz, of the perks of living on the water. The 26-year-old’s home is the World War Two torpedo boat MTB 219, built in 1942, and with the sinking of German ship the Sea Addler as a notable moment in its illustrious history.

“The history of the boat is wonderful, which obviously makes it a very cool place to live,” Bitz says. She is one of four people who each live in a cabin on the vessel, which is moored on Cheyne Walk in Chelsea. The cabins are a little on the pokey side, Bitz admits, but she’s often on the deck anyway.

“Everything is just so peaceful on the river,” she adds. “I love having that extra bit of privacy, and the ducks are always around.

It’s beautiful.”

Friends and neighbours It’s the community that boat-dwellers

Tranquility: boat living is peaceful and convenient appreciate the most, says Kiwi Nick Bibby, 36, who has lived on a boat for four of his 10 years in the UK. He resides in Shad Thames, on an old Dutch barge called Ilka, with the looming Tower Bridge in eyeshot and St Katherine’s docks across the way.

“Everyone on the moorings really looks out for each other; it’s quite a social little neighbourhood,” Bibby says. “I’ve lived in heaps of flats in London and never knew the people living around me. But boating life definitely attracts a certain kind of person.”

Bibby’s first experience of living on a boat was with an ex-girlfriend. The two rented out a 60ft narrow boat one summer and continuously cruised around London, spending weeks at a time moored by parks or in marinas.

“We didn’t need a licence, so I guess there’s a lot of trust involved when someone hands over the keys to their boat. But there’s not much to it, you just turn on the engine and go. Narrow boats are really heavy, though, and don’t stop quickly. We did

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LIFE ON THE WATER • Get rid of all the non-essentials.

Given the confined space, boat living is minimalist living, so downsize your possessions and pack what you’ve got neatly into the boat.

• Got some change to spare – and then some? The average price of a canal boat, which is the most common form of floating home, is between £60,000-£100,000, according to the National Association of Boat Owners.

And, if you are buying, it’s best that it comes with a mooring as they are very limited in London.

• A permanent mooring in Little Venice, with access to utilities, could cost about £7000 a year.

manage to smash plates and glasses on our first few trips.

Returning to bricks and mortar is difficult to fathom, Biddy says. “While I’m still in London, I can’t see myself living anywhere else. I’m in one of the best locations in the whole city,” he adds. “It’s amazing to set out on the deck and have breakfast, or sit out there in the evening when it’s calm and the sun’s going down. It’s a million-dollar view.”

• Approximately 6000 of the 34,000 licensed boats on British waterways are permanent residences.

Photos: Thinkstock, Getty

Environmentally speaking Boats are definitely not for the highly strung.

“You’ve got to be flexible, because every now and again you might have a power outage, or a pump in the shower might fail, and you have to accept that. If you easily get stressed, boating life is not for you,” Biddy says.

It’s a sentiment confirmed by Ivor Caplan, planning officer at the Residential Boat Owners Association.

“We get a lot of young people who are keen to try out boat living as an alternative lifestyle, but it really helps if you have an affinity with the country’s inland waterways system, and you understand the environment,” he says.

Cruising houseboats, as opposed to those that are permanently moored, require plenty of maintenance. “You have to think about things such as filling up your water tank, and the less pleasant jobs are emptying your toilet, and finding a way to hook up to electricity,” he says.

However, Caplan adds it’s a sustainable

lifestyle, as boat residents become more aware of the services they’re using.

Give it a burl The cost of renting a cabin on a boat can cost anything from £300 to £800 per month, and bills may, or may not be included.

“It’s less expensive than an unheated, uncarpeted warehouse in Shoreditch,” Bitz says.

The best way to find room to let is via the website apolloduck.co.uk or gumtree.com.

Generally speaking, they are safe to live in, as many are within gated moorings, or there are security guards on the pontoons.

Keep in mind, however, every few years, your boat might be taken into dry dock for several NEXT WEEK days at a time, so you’ll need to find Living close to the a temporary home.

Olympic Games Happy boating!

• It gets cold on a boat, and frozen taps/showers, etc are commonplace, so you’ll need to be hardy. And, if you’re the high-maintenance type with an appliance for all occasions, forget it – most of them use too much power.

• You need to be proactive when searching for a room to rent on a houseboat as they are in demand, so get snapped up quickly.

• You still have to pay council tax when living on a boat, however it is always set at Band A, which is the lowest band.

• Want to know where your toilet waste goes? No? We’ll tell you anyway. On tidal moorings, boats are generally fitted with macerators, which turn waste into clear, odourless liquid and spit it out into the river. Canal boats usually have a black-water tank, which can be pumped out at a station.

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WORLDVIEW

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“Hello?”

PHONES 4 SHEEP IS JUST BAAARMY SOUTH AFRICA A South African farmer has given his sheep mobile phones to keep tabs on the flock amid recent livestock thefts.

When the animals call, it’s always bad news for Erard Louw, of the Cape Town suburbs – the phones around their necks only switch on when the sheep run, a sign thieves have cut through the fences.

“As they run it gives me a phone call and says ‘sheep one’ or ‘sheep two’ and so on, so at least I know where to start looking because the farm is 750 hectares,” Louw said.

TWEETS OF THE WEEK @frankieboyle Driving through Milton Keynes. If you’re a teenager here thinking of getting into drugs, my advice is to really go for it @menshumor I wake up relatively happy every morning. Then I interact with people and things change quickly @thekeithchegwin New O2 app on sale – the telephone box locator

EXPAT ADMITS ASSAULT OVER AD AUSTRALIA Kiwi expat Max Barrett, who lost his cool over an Australian TV ad poking fun at the NZ accent, has admitted common assault and using offensive language.

Barrett, 44, took umbrage at a furniture retailer’s ad on the WIN regional network featuring two animated kookaburras saying “Yeah, bro”, “Sweet as, bro” and “Choice, bro” with New Zealand accents.

Police say Barrett abused Knockonwood furniture store staff over the phone 46

Christmas comes early: 215 Father Christmas-suited skating enthusiasts take to the ice on a pop-up rink at Sydney’s Bondi Beach. Raising cash for charity, they got together to break the world record for skating Santas, which was set at 142 and held by the UK

before turning up at WIN’s Griffith offices where he abused staff and assaulted an advertising executive.

Barrett also pleaded guilty to misusing a telecommunications service when he appeared in Griffith Local Court last week.

No pleas were entered on other charges – resisting arrest and intimidating police – and his case was adjourned until August 29.

TONY BLAIR BRIEFED ON ALIEN INVASION UNITED KINGDOM It’s not usually top of the agenda for politicians, but a former UK prime minister received a full briefing about UFOs during his time in office.

Tony Blair asked the Ministry of Defence

for its policy on alien attacks after receiving a letter from a member of the public afraid of a governmental alien cover-up. The MoD told the then PM it has “a limited interest in UFO matters, but remains open-minded about extraterrestrial life forms”.

The correspondence came from one of 6,700 pages of classified documents released last week by the National Archives.

Britain’s “UFO files” include government briefings, letters from UFO scientists and numerous alien sightings.

Perhaps Blair should have been more afraid the public would discover his home was on a planet far far away ...

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WORLDVIEW

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Posed by models

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THIS WEEK

IN NUMBERS 6

“He did what to her where?”

50 SHADES OF GREY? NOW THIS IS SAUCY...

One of a kind: a white kiwi

Age, in years, of a man who was eaten alive by tigers after breaking into Copenhagen Zoo’s big cat enclosure at night

UNITED KINGDOM A man has been charged with common assault after squirting brown sauce at his girlfriend, who refused to stop reading erotic novel 50 Shades Of Grey.

Raymond Hodgson, 31, and Emma McCormick began arguing after she started reading the book. Hodgson, from Carlisle, Cumbria, was annoyed, calling 50 Shades “pornographic”.

After days of rowing, Hodgson went to the home of his partner of five years, allegedly slapping her round the face, then squirting her with the sauce.

Hodgson pleaded guilty to the single charge at Carlisle Magistrates Court last week. However, he denies slapping McCormick.

District Judge Gerald Chalk ordered Hodgson to pay £100 compensation and £85 towards prosecution costs.

After the case, Hodgson reportedly said that he chose his weapon in order to show McCormick “what sauce really meant”.

‘SPEEDING GRANNY FACING TIME IN JAIL’

Photos: Getty; Thinkstock

AUSTRALIA An 81-year-old grandmother could go to prison after allegedly hitting a police officer with her car.

Ailsa May Locke, of the Gold Coast, was returning home from an 11-hour shift at Brisbane Hospital when she was pulled over. She allegedly struck the officer with her car, claiming she could not see him, then she verbally abused him.

Locke appeared at Southport Magistrate Court last week on charges of speeding,

Time, in months, Brit businessman Steven Sherriff has been jailed for after pinching a woman’s bum in Dubai

23

Compensation, in pence, given to Jean-Louise Bourdon almost a year after his £160 bike was stolen in Derby

Amount, in pounds, bronzed Trisha Paytas, a 25-year-old model from the US, has spent on tanning in 10 years

driving without due care and attention, failing to comply with a police direction and leaving the scene of an accident. Locke maintains the charges are “ridiculous”. The case was adjourned until September 19.

Outside court, Locke said she thought the officer flagging her down was a “hooligan with a stick”.

RARE WHITE KIWI FINALLY FINDS MATE NEW ZEALAND It’s not easy being different – that’s what the rare white kiwi would say if it could talk.

The 14-month-old animal, believed to be the first born in captivity, has been hunting for a mate in its home in Wairarapa, New Zealand, to no avail.

However, the kiwi has recently been introduced to a young brown male and seem to be “getting on OK”, according to officials.

“She’s certainly the one in charge, though,” a spokesman for Pukaha Mount Bruce National Wildlife Center said.

20

32,000

QUOTE OF THE WEEK I drank too much and took drugs.

I went mad really Rolling Stone Charlie Watts looks back at the band’s 50 years performing together

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TNT puts the world to rights

OURVIEW

COMMENT: OLI JONES

oliver.jones@tntmagazine.com

New breakfast show DJ, Nick Grimshaw

Nick Grimshaw right man to replace Chris Moyles

Photos: Getty

But the real question is: what is the long-term direction of Radio 1?

I haven’t spoken to my second cousin Clare for the best part of two years, but on Wednesday I got an email from her, with the subject line: Nick Grimshaw is replacing Chris Moyles on Radio 1.

I‘ve never told Clare I was a fan of Radio 1, or indeed, Nick Grimshaw or Chris Moyles.

She simply thought this news was of sufficient importance to share. Now, it’s easy to question the news sense of a person with, what one might diplomatically call a growing feline entourage, but within minutes of the announcement, ‘Radio 1’, ‘breakfast show’, ‘Nick Grimshaw’, ‘Grimmy’, and ‘Chris Moyles’ were all trending on Twitter in the UK. It’s amazing how big this news is, but it’s not difficult to understand why this is such an oddly controversial topic. Millions of people spend their day’s most tedious 30 minutes, commuting to work, sat in a traffic jam, with the Radio 1 breakfast show. I did exactly that, for six long months. And I’m not ashamed to say that Chris Moyles’s show became like a trusty friend, a friend you can do with facing another day of office tedium.

Criticism of Moyles often came from those who’d listened to one show, but Moyles’s style was built around a longstanding familiarity and in-jokes. For all his fairly minor gaffes, he did an incredible job and will be sorely missed. His replacement Nick Grimshaw is also certainly intelligent and funny enough to make a breakfast slot work. Meanwhile Greg James, the man much-touted as Moyles’s successor will hopefully realise his true calling and disappear to manage a Home Counties branch of Topshop.

The long-term direction of Radio 1 remains its biggest problem. Is a publicly funded radio station that so closely mirrors its commercial rivals really necessary? Perhaps not, but don’t listen to the sanctimonious criticsm that Radio 1 forms part of the BBC’s ‘dumbing down’. Jeremy Vine’s Radio 2 show, for example, gets away with being consistently the most moronic two hours of broadcasting on the entire BBC schedule. » Agree or disagree? Is Grimmy a worthy replacement? letters@tntmagazine.com

50 SHADES FOR MEN? IT’S CALLED PORN Peter Andre revealed this week that he wants to write a ‘male version’ of ‘mummy porn’ hit 50 Shades Of Grey.

Allow me to be so presumptuous as to speak for all men when I say, “no ta, Pete”. If the thought of Andre, sat at a keyboard, thinking “how can I give millions of men erections” doesn’t make you feel a bit strange, then you certainly have a formidable constitution.

Andre reckons men are “missing out” on raunchy prose. But what he seems to have forgotten is the male equivalent of 50 Shades already exists. It’s called porn.

It says something rather startling about

“

Allow me to speak for all men, no thanks Pete

”

gender politics in this country that a fairly tame piece of female erotic literature is so widely lambasted for being anti-feminist.

It is possible for a novel designed to be base titillation to be just that. Call me optimistic, but I credit everyone with the capacity to discern the difference between paperback fantasy and reality.

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The People’s Games?

Has the IOC become bloated and forgotten its core values?

WORDS OLI JONES

The Olympics are just around the corner, lurking, like a mugger, ready to deprive us of things we’re used to and otherwise inconvenience us. The corporate lockdown surrounding the Quadrennial International Sports Event has been making headlines all week. First, The Olympic Chip Embargo surfaced, after a letter leaked to the media informed caterers that, due to a deal with McDonald’s, individual portions of chips could not be sold in the Olympic Park, unless accompanied by a slab of fish (yes, really).

The Chip Embargo was later relaxed to allow staff working on the park to get their hit without having to enter between the golden arches. But the bad publicity didn’t stop there. On Thursday, the Daily Mail reported a perplexing list of items to be banned from the Olympic Park: bottled water, Che Guevara T-shirts, sports equipment, ‘excessive’ amounts of food, and DLSR cameras with disproportionate zoom.

Critics slammed the Games for “turning into a sponsored security show”. But are these actions a justifiable way of making sure the corporations backing the Games get a fair cut? Or are they indicative of an organisation which has lost its way and an event whose sense of importance has become completely disproportional?

Humble beginning Dr William Penny Brookes, a Victorian-era social reformer, and father of the modern Olympic movement, created the Much Wenlock Games “for the promotion of moral, physical and intellectual improvement” in 1850.

Sadly some of the more colourful events – the wheelbarrow race and the ‘old woman race for a pound of tea’ – haven’t survived to today’s iteration.

The Games as we know them, were created when Brookes met Frenchman Baron Pierre de Coubertin, who believed organised sport was a great tool for nation building. Together, Brooks and Coubertin created the 50

International Olympic Committee (IOC) and the first modern Olympics were held in Athens in 1886.

Revolution The transformation of the Games from a fairly modest, naive organisation, to a multinational making billions in tax-free yearly revenue, is largely credited to Spaniard Juan Antonio Samaranch.

A former fascist party member and a banker, whose only sporting experience came during a brief stint as a sports reporter for Spanish newspaper La Prensa, Samaranch was appointed head of the IOC in 1980. He revolutionised the organisation, taking on international sponsors and allowing professional athletes to compete, leading to a boom in the price of the Games’ TV rights.

Scandal Samaranch took the Olympics from a point in the Seventies when the Games were such a financial burden on the host country that bidders were few and far between, to the point where were cities so desperate to host the Olympics, they were willing to go to extreme, and dubious lengths, to woo delegates’ votes.

From Amsterdam’s bid committee allegedly enlisting the help of two prostitutes for IOC members, to Atlanta’s bid committee paying the tuition fees of a fictional daughter of a Sudanese general, the gifts lavished on IOC members by bid committees were as diverse as the sports at the Games.

A 2006 investigation discovered that the Nagano delegation spent £3.2m on entertainment alone for IOC delegates, and, perhaps most amusingly of all, The Salt Lake committee doled out ‘immense amounts’ of Viagra to two delegates, according to Michael Joseph Gross writing in Vanity Fair.

Samaranch denied any knowledge of the corruption and

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Clockwise: Juan Antonio Samaranch; Beijing Games; Londoners’ reaction when the bid was won in 2005

implemented new ethical guidelines, though he personally remained under fire for questionable IOC appointments, including the Idi Amin’s former defence minister.

Photos: Getty

London 2012 London has the luxury that its indiscretions will all appear minor relative to its predecessor, the Beijing Games, described by human rights groups as directly contradictory to the Olympics charter.

Many suggested that giving China the Olympics to an extent legitimised her continuing support of repressive and totalitarian regimes in North Korea, Zimbabwe and Sudan, and glossed over the ongoing dispute over Tibet.

A scandal over the age of China’s athletes and rumours of state-sponsored doping programmes continued during the Games. And it was even suggested that the recall of poisonous milk powder, which killed six children, was postponed until after the Games to avoid bad publicity.

However, London 2012 has been dogged by problems from the outset. The initial budget of £4bn has ballooned to more than £13bn, the cost of tickets and the proportion going to corporate buyers has been an ever-present issue.

The list of sponsors reads like a who’s-who of unpopular multinationals. From peddlers of fatty kid’s snacks, McDonald’s and Cadbury’s to Dow Chemical, the company responsible for the Bhopal disaster, one of the worst (and least atoned for) industrial catastrophes ever.

The activist group Counter Olympics Network has called the Games a “showcase of class privilege, corporate power and security wonkery,” inteneded to be little more than a corporate “branding exercise” for its sponsors.

London 2012 was sold on its legacy, but how many corporate types will be in attendance for every east London kid – the people this Games was supposed to inspire?

People’s Games? Or exploitative corporate jolly?

Ready, aim: rapier missile battery at Blackheath

FEELING SECURE? THE £1BN OPERATION With the Olympic security budget rumoured to be coming in at just less than £1bn, who and what will be guarding the public’s safety during the Games?

Undoubtedly, the surface-to-air missiles have garnered the most public controversy, but the reality is they are merely a back-up. Any errant jumbo jets must first outrun the Eurofighter Typhoon aircraft that will be continually patrolling the sky over the Home Counties for the entirety of the Games.

In addition to 13,000 private security guards and 12,500 extra police officers, 13,500 military personnel will be on security detail. SAS teams will be permanently based around London in order to quickly nullify the threat of Mumbai-style attacks.

The Royal Navy’s largest ship, HMS Ocean, will be moored in Greenwich, providing logistical support for Thames marine units and a base for helicopter teams.

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SPORTNEWS

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SHEEDY CONFIDENT OF RETAINING FOLAU AFL Greater Wester Sydney coach Kevin Sheedy was adamant league convert Isarel Folau (above) will still be with the Giants in 2013 despite continued speculation of a return to the NRL and his struggle to adapt to AFL. “He’ll probably play really well from here on until the end of the season and then absolutely brain them next year and David Parkin can go and have a cappuccino in Carlton and relax,” he added, in reference to the AFL legend who has been a vocal critic of Folau’s form.

Sheedy was able to smile about comments from former rugby league star Matthew Johns, urging Folau to return to the 13-a-side game. “I just can’t believe that he hasn’t written a letter saying ‘thanks for getting Izzy out of the Queensland State of Origin team’,” Sheedy said.

“If he had have thanked me, I might have got Johnathan Thurston or someone like that and really got NSW over the line.”

AUSTRALIA’S TIME AT NUMBER ONE LIMITED CRICKET Australia captain Michael Clarke has called for a thorough debrief of the team’s recent performances after they took another thumping against England for an embarrassing 4-0 series loss.

It was Australia’s worst ODI series in 40 years and Australia may now lose their top ranking, with England facing South Africa in a one-day series from next month.

“England have experience and have played a lot of cricket together,” Clarke said.

“It takes a long period of time to be No.1 in the world in the Test format and they’re heading that way in the ODI format.”

52

In a spin: Australia’s Jake Stein competes during the men’s discus in the decathlon on day two of the 14th IAAF World Junior Championships in Barcelona, Spain, last week.

Stein confirmed his place as the country’s most promising multi-event athlete by taking home the silver medal. “I wanted to win gold, but I am not disappointed,” he said.

BULLDOGS FAN BARKS FOR SBW’S BLOOD

BIG WEEK FOR ...

RUGBY LEAGUE

Aussie golfer Geoff Ogilvie will be wanting a big showing at the British Open after declaring that given Australia’s wealth of talent, the nation had an “unacceptable strike rate” at major tournaments. Ogilvie is the nation’s most recent major champion, taking out the US open in 2006, but has a poor record at the British Open. He’s played in nine, but missed seven cuts, with a fifth at St Andrews in 2005 his best result. He leads a field of Aussies that includes Robert Allenby, Aaron Baddeley, Greg Adam Scott, John Senden and Aaron Townsend.

“I want Cranky Frank Pritchard to shoulder charge him in the face, then take a dump on his lifeless body. I’ll pay Pritchard’s wages for the resulting suspension if he does that for me.”

Such were the sentiments of Bulldogs fan ‘Bad Billy’, who was posting on the NRL side’s The Kennel forum in the wake of news Kiwi footballer Sonny Bill Williams was returning to Australian rugby league.

Williams controversially left the Bulldogs in 2007, walking out mid-season to play rugby in France. He since played for NZ at the rugby world cup but has announced a return to the 13-man game next year.

Our View: P56

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Mate against mate: Vettel and Webber

QUOTES OF THE WEEK I say they’re just fucking wankers.

I cannot be doing with people like that British Tour de France cyclist Bradley Wiggins has a few choice words for those who suggest doping was taking place on this year’s race

PREVIEW Australia’s high hopes in Germany FORMULA ONE GERMAN GRAND PRIX SUNDAY, 11.30AM SKY SPORTS F1 Wasn’t it great to see Aussie Mark Webber sock it to the Poms on their own turf by winning at Silverstone a fortnight ago? It was his second victory of the season (after claiming Monaco in May) and he last week signed a confidence-boosting new contract with Red Bull, dousing speculation he would race for Ferrari next year.

Webber had a sensational drive in

England, overtaking championship leader Fernando Alonso with four laps to go and holding out for the win. The big Aussie’s still in second place overall, but has now cut Alonso’s lead to just 13 points All attention this week will be on the track at the Hockenheimring, where Webber’s German teammate, Sebastian Vettel, is the bookmaker’s favourite.

It’s the now halfway stage of the season and Vettel will be out to prove a point; he is Red Bull’s number one driver, after all.

Webber, though, has shown he doesn’t care about such things. He’s just out to win.

THE CHAT | BMX AT THE GAMES

He’s made me change to a non-fluoride toothpaste because apparently fluoride is dangerous, contains rat poison and can kill you British boxer Amir Kahn on the unusual methods of his new conditioning coach Ruben Tabares

I’m not really confident he’ll became a very, very good player until about maybe midOctober, November London Welsh rugby coach Lyn Jones doesn’t want to put too much pressure on new signing Gavin Henson

TV HIGHLIGHTS

Photos: Getty

CRICKET some big talk about Aussie BMX Q There’s exponent Sam Willoughby in the lead-up to the Olympics? What’s the deal with this guy? quite the athlete, ditching AFL at age 16 A Willoughby’s to focus on BMX, even though doubters dismissed it as ‘a hobby’. His determination has paid off, though; Willoughby, 20, is now ranked the world’s top BMX rider. He’s spoken openly of his aim to win gold in London and become the sport’s first superstar – the Sean White or Tony Hawk of BMX, if you will.

He’s in good company – fellow Australian Caroline Buchanan is the world time-trial champion and is ranked second overall in the world, while Lauren Reynolds is fifth. And a host of upWilloughby gets air and-comers means the nation as a whole sits at number one.

West Indies v New Zealand Another dubbing for the Kiwis?

Monday, 2.25pm. Sky Sports 2

CRICKET England v South Africa All the first-Test action Thursday, 10am. Sky Sports 1

RUGBY LEAGUE Catalans v St Helens A top Super League clash Friday, 7.30pm. SkySports 1 TNTMAGAZINE.COM

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SPORTVIEW

TNT puts the world to rights

Making hay: Williams

COMMENT: JAHN VANNISSELROY jahn.vannisselroy@tntmagazine.com

Don’t begrudge Williams for making hay while the sun shines Haters gonna hate, but, given the chance, they’d do the same

» Should Williams have stayed in New Zealand? letters@tntmagazine.com 56

Despite the roof being placed over Wimbledon during last week’s final, drops of moisture still landed on the precious grass at game’s end.

It was an embarrassing scene, those beads of liquid tumbling from the eyes of Andy Murray. Poor old Andy Murray, carrying the weight of a England, even though he’s from Scotland.

During Wimbledon, much was made of Murray’s transformation from skinny teen in 2005 to strong, solid player in 2012. He was now more mature, his fans said, his petulance and surliness a thing of the past.

Murray was now a man, the call rang out.

“

Those tears were an embarassing scene

”

Yeah … still a little way to go, people.

Perhaps, such was the cringeworthiness of his emotional little episode, he should have launched it at the game’s start.

Federer, known for his concentration, surely would not have been able stay composed at such a babyish display.

Man up, Murray. Maybe next year.

Photos: Getty

In 1990, when All Blacks deputy number 10 Frano Botica made the decision to switch to league, he spoke of his only talent being a football player. He had no trade to offer an employer, he said, other than an ability with a rugby ball, hence his decision to earn as much as he could, while he could. Sonny Bill Williams, who last week announced he was leaving New Zealand rugby, is, apart from being a handy boxer, in the same boat as Botica.

That’s why no one should begrudge his move back to the NRL, via a stint in Japanese rugby, next year. There’s perhaps another seven years for Williams to make as much as he can before being discarded on to the scrapheap of pro sportsman, probably with an aching body. If he’s lucky and develops a cultivated air with the media, a la David Beckham, he may have an ambassadorial role, but he won’t be counting on it.

New Zealand and Australia’s tall poppy brigade had their scythes sharpened and ready to go last week, reminding anyone who would listen that SBW walked out on the Bulldogs in 2007. It’s true – but we all made mistakes at 21 (probably made them yesterday), Williams’ biggest being to listen to advice to sign a long-term contract that was seriously underpaying him, and then to listen to advice not to see the 2007 season out.

He’s learnt, the NZRU saying all his dealings had been up-front and transparent. Being a football player since 16, until his fateful move to France when he left the Bulldogs, SBW’s life experience had consisted only of living in the NRL fishbowl. Now, he can further expand his horizons, soaking up culture in Japan, boxing in South Africa – all while setting himself up.

Those eager to slay a guy for wanting to do the best for himself are lying if they say they wouldn’t change jobs for a better paypacket and a more colourful future, and jealous if they continue to beat their drums of discontent. You can also bet that they’ll be among the first watching the exciting, more-fulfilled SBW ply his ever-improving trade next year.

BLUB SESSION ANDY’S BIG ERROR

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Winner takes all This summer, Test cricket will be top of the agenda again WORDS TOM STURROCK

Finally, the pleasantries having been dealt with, the West Indies and Australia brushed aside by an England side in buoyant form, the main event of this year’s Test cricket calendar is at hand. On Thursday, England and South Africa, the top sides in the longer form of the game, will begin their three-match series at The Oval in London. And, by the time the third match, beginning at Lord’s in the middle of August, concludes, Test cricket will have an undisputed heavyweight champ. Well, unless it’s a draw, in which case nothing much will be settled.

It is curious that a series of such consequence should be straitjacketed into just three matches but that is the nature of international cricket these days – there is, apparently, enough room for five ODIs and three T20s once the boring old Tests are done and dusted. That gripe aside, it promises to be a fascinating series with no shortage of talking points.

The English attack In recent years, England’s great strength, particularly on home soil, has been the consistency and variety of its pace bowling attack. It will, as usual, be led by James Anderson and Stuart Broad, who, in English conditions, have been nigh on unplayable over the past 12 months. The English selectors then have the luxury of choosing between Tim Bresnan and Steve Finn for the third seamer’s spot – Bresnan’s batting and durability appeals but Finn shapes as the bowler more likely to produce a spell that turns a match. Since Andy Flower took charge of this England side, over three years ago, there have been many triumphs and startling improvements. But the formation of this world-beating seam attack has been the most significant.

The only worry for England is in the form of Graeme Swann, who, at one point, would have been the first or second man picked. The 33-year-old’s overall record is still impressive and he was one of the few English cricketers to 58

emerge from a disastrous tour of the subcontinent with some decent numbers, but his last two series at home, against the West Indies and India, have been lean. And, certainly, the Proteas’ batsmen will not be in generous moods.

KP continues Any sense that Kevin Pietersen might arrive in the middle years of his life as an international cricketer having mellowed, was dispelled in May, when KP retired from limited-overs cricket, citing an inflexible schedule. The England board may have made a rod for their backs but it would not surprise if the situation brings out the combative best in KP, so often a lightning rod for criticism.

Pietersen, of course, has a strained relationship with South Africa – the country of his birth – and it will be fascinating to see whether the Proteas get stuck into him, sensing vulnerability, or leave him alone, lest they set his competitive juice flowing. Pietersen’s form over the past year has been impressive – the dodgy tour to Pakistan the only exception – but his Test performances against South Africa have been nothing special over the journey.

Pietersen, of course, is no longer the only gun in England’s arsenal, sandwiched instead between Alastair Cook, Jonathan Trott and Ian Bell, all capable of scoring heavily.

But it’s hard to shake the sense that if Pietersen, once more with something to prove, is allowed to settle, he could yet be the English batsman who shapes the series.

Philander the wildcard If England’s seam attack is impressive, run an eye over the Saffa unit. It’s led, of course, by Dale Steyn, who, since 2007, has been the world’s best fast bowler. For many years, he had Makhaya Ntini riding shotgun but, these days, he’s supported

by Morne Morkel, who troubled England last time these sides met, back at the end of 2009. But newcomer Vernon

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Clockwise: Vernon Philander; Graeme Smith; Kevin Pietersen

Philander has arrived in compelling style and could be the wildcard when comparing these two attacks.

In his first seven Tests, Philander has taken 51 wickets, at the miserly average of 14. Consider that, in the history of Test cricket, England’s Tom Richardson, who played at the end of the 19th century, holds the record for most wickets after seven Tests – he had 53 of them after as many Tests as Philander, who has already claimed six five-wicket hauls.

Cricket, by its nature, throws up the odd flash in the pan, a player who looks incredible for a year or so, only for opponents to figure them out. That may yet happen to Philander but, so far, he looks every inch a world-class firstchange bowler. This series will be the litmus test.

Photos: Getty

Smith to lead from the front The South African middle-order is just as stacked as England’s. Over the past couple of years, AB de Villiers deserves to be considered the world’s best batsman, while Jacques Kallis has enjoyed a late-career renaissance that has him scoring as heavily as ever. Throw in Hashim Amla, who experienced a slow start to the year in New Zealand, and there’s enough quality to bat anyone out of a Test match.

It’s likely JP Duminy will be preferred to Jacques Rudolph at No 6 and Alviro Petersen retained as opener. He scored a century in his last Test but he stands out as the weak link, increasing the pressure on his opening partner, Proteas skipper Graeme Smith, a man whose career has been defined by his performances against England.

Back in 2003, he belted back-to-back double-centuries against England at Edgbaston and Lord’s. He had played only a dozen Tests and, at 22, was the youngest ever South African captain but those performances demonstrated he was made of the right stuff. Then, in 2008, it was Smith’s century on the final day of the third Test that secured a series victory, the first by a Saffa side on English soil for 43 years.

LAST TIME AROUND ENGLAND OFF THE HOOK In many ways, England’s ascent to the top spot in the Test rankings began with their last series in South Africa, where they managed to eke out a draw in a four-match series they could easily have lost 3-1.

In the first Test, at Supersport Park, the last-wicket pair, Paul Collingwood and Graham Onions, hung on after England had lost five wickets for 13 runs. Then, in the third Test at Newlands, after another alarming collapse, it fell to Graeme Swann and Onions (pictured) to again stave off defeat.

In between those results, England had hammered South Africa to take a series lead, which South Africa duly overturned in the fourth and final Test of a bizarre, topsy-turvy series. If this year’s series is half as eventful, it will be one to remember.

TNTMAGAZINE.COM

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TRAVEL LATE DEALS | HOTSHOTS | TRAVEL TIPS | TOP FIVE | TOURS | BIG TRIP IMAGE OF THE WEEK

PEOPLE ARE STRANGE We’ve spotted perhaps the oddest attendee at the San Fermin festival in Pamplona this year, hanging out by the bins. Quite what he was thinking when he put this ensemble together is beyond us.

Photos: Getty / AFP; Studland Surf School; Troels Heien / kk.dk

INSIDE

JURASSIC PARK /66

TICKET TO RIDE /78

INTO THE AMAZON /84

England’s Jurassic Coast is a 185-millionyear-old adventure playground you can’t afford to miss.

The capital of Denmark’s love affair with cycling sees tens of thousands cramming the bike lanes. We tour the city with them.

One of the world’s most mysterious natural wonders, the Amazon is nature’s territory, untamed by man. We head into its heart.

TNTMAGAZINE.COM

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TRAVELDIARY Laura Chubb

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Celebratory coffin-carrying in Spain

ACTING TRAVEL EDITOR

JUST LOOK LIKE SHIT The news that the average woman changes her clothes four times a day on holiday (see p65) couldn’t be more at odds with my own travel habits.

For me, hitting the road is the perfect excuse for being as slovenly as public decency permits. Make-up melts in the heat; Balenciagas don’t mix with the beach. I could – nay, will – argue that knackered flip-flops and bed-hair are essential facets of backpacker cool.

Still, there are limits to my ‘just look like shit’ theory. Alternating a few tank tops and never so much as hovering a comb over your hair is one thing; men wearing harem pants is another. It never ceases to amaze me how many perfectly normal chaps go world wandering and resultantly think it acceptable to dress like Aladdin. No doubt they feel this fashion choice shows they are free from the shackles of the first world. Really, they might as well don a sandwich board that reads ‘berk’.

But it’s not just the boys who are guilty of misjudged globe-trotter ‘chic’. Think Monica getting her hair braided in Friends. I had a mate who indulged in similar folly; she came home resembling a sea urchin.

Further signs of ‘got carried away on holiday’ include anyone who starts sporting a conical hat or tiedye trousers. People who own ‘same same but different’ T-shirts: go stand in the corner and think about what you have done.

It’s great to get away and indulge in being liberated from your everyday self, but be sure to remember some simple rules.

No make-up or hair products = longer lie-ins and lighter bags. But harem pants = tool.

For those who have dodged death and wish to count their blessings, the Fiesta de Santa Marta de Ribarteme, named after the patron saint 29 of resurrection, offers an unlikely group therapy session. People who have had near-death experiences celebrate their survival by climbing into coffins, which are then carried through town and to a Santa Marta shrine.

JULY

WHY: The festival gives ‘survivors’ an opportunity to celebrate their second chances, making it an occasion that marks a love for life more than brooding over death. Offerings are usually made to Santa Marta, in thanks for helping the lucky folk scrape through their scary experiences.

MONDO CROQUET Portland, Oregon, US

Pack a bowling ball, a sledgehammer and a top 29 hat for this fancy dress festival, inspired by Alice in Wonderland. Taking English croquet and supersizing it, US-style, there are three pitches inviting non-stop play for six hours – so be sure to bring plenty of spirit to take with your tea.

JULY

mondocroquet.com

FETES DE BAYONNE

Bayonne, France

spain-holiday.com

CROP OVER FESTIVAL

Bridgetown, Barbados

This sweet summer festival celebrates the end of 22 the sugar cane crop. With a distinct Barbadian flavour, the fest bump ‘n’ grinds onwards until August 6, but it’s the heritage feast on July 22 that’s a don’t-miss. An explosion of colourful feathered headdresses and body paint, it’s a visual treat.

JULY

barbadoscropoverfestival.com

WORLD FOOTBAG CHAMPIONSHIPS Warsaw, Poland

Similar to San Fermin in Pamplona, this event is 25-29 characterised by bullfights, parades, fireworks and a sea of people dressed in white and waving red handkerchiefs swarming through town.

JULY

fetes.bayonne.fr

62

DO IT BECAUSE: Even though the festival is centred around cemeteries and coffins, it is treated as a celebration of life, with firework displays and brass bands revving up the party mood. Don’t miss the coffin parade to the cemetery after Mass.

Sort of a version of volleyball, but using your 29 feet and an array of flips to keep the ball in the air, this acrobatic sporting contest is sure to entertain.

JULY

footbag.org

Photos: Getty

Are harem pants acceptable? Email laura.chubb@tntmagazine.com

FESTIVAL OF NEAR-DEATH EXPERIENCE Las Nievas, Spain

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TIME FOR A CHANGE? The average woman changes her outfit four times a day on holiday, new research claims, while an incredulity-inspiring one in 10 show off seven different outfits in 24 hours. The study, commissioned by the F&F clothing line at Tesco, also found that a woman’s suitcase is likely to return home bulging even more than when it was first checked in, as fashion-conscious holidaymakers buy yet more clothes while abroad. Just in case that isn’t over-the-top enough for you, eight out of 10 ladies said despite their daily outfit changes, they still didn’t manage to wear every item they had packed. Good grief.

Photos: Thinkstock

WHEN TO ‘WHY AYE’ The likes of “Alright mush?” and “Why aye mate” are to feature in a free ‘regional greetings’ guide being handed out to foreign visitors who stay at Jurys Inn hotels over the Olympics.

No-doubt-bewildered tourists will be taught, among other lingo, how to say ‘hi’ in the southwest – “ello my lovely”, according to the guide – and ‘goodbye’ in Belfast – “take ‘er ‘andy”. Jurys Inn’s Suzanne Cannon said: “We are increasingly aware that, for overseas guests in particular, our array of regional accents can sometimes be difficult to grasp.”

BERLIN BARGAINS This summer, there’s never been a better time to bag a bargain break to Berlin, as Generator Hostels has slashed bed prices at its digs in the hip heart of Europe. Rates at the hostel, located a five-minute journey from central Alexanderplatz, will start from around £7.88 per night throughout August. And it’s a great month to go, with the much-loved Long Night of Museums on August 25, an after-dark cultural extravaganza, and the Berlin International Beer Festival on August 3-5. More on the August deals at generatorhostels.com/berlin.

LIFE IN THE FAST LANE A new queuing system for people who do not need visas to enter the UK is being trialled at Heathrow Airport. The system is good news for Aussie, Kiwi, Canadian and American travellers, who will be able to take their place in a (theoretically) faster-moving line at immigration.

The move comes after months of bad publicity over queuing times at the airport, with staff cuts at the Border Agency being blamed for a potential travel catastrophe come the Olympics.

A spokesman for Border Force confirmed: “We are trialling separate lanes for passengers.”

TNTMAGAZINE.COM

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Old Harry’s Rocks: paddle around the coast’s prehistoric treasures

EAT, DRINK, SLEEP

ENGLAND

Jurassic Coast DORSET & DEVON

LONDON

Swanage

GETTING THERE Trains from London Waterloo to Wareham cost from about £50.20 return. southwesttrains.co.uk Onward buses from Wareham to Swanage can be booked with the Wilts and Dorset bus company (bus no 40) wdbus.co.uk

holidays along Dorset’s spectacular Jurassic exclusive Thomas Hardy and Gardens tours.

Flexible walking distances suitable for walkers of all abilities, including children.

MORE INFO

01300 342140

www.footscape.co.uk 66

The Fish Plaice is one of the busiest of Swanage’s many fish and chip shops for good reason. Fish and chips costs about £5.50. fishplaice.co.uk The busy Square & Compass pub in Worth Matravers is popular with locals and visiting hikers, with pies, pasties and a good selection of local ales and ciders on offer.

Pints from about £3.10. squareandcompasspub.co.uk The food isn’t great at Bankes Arms Studland, but the view from the beer garden is, and it’s a good start or end point for hiking to Old Harry’s Rocks.

Pints from about £3.10. bankesarms.com

Independent and vehicle supported walking Coast and unspoilt countryside as well as

La Trattoria, a very friendly, cosy Italian restaurant close to Swanage’s seafront, has lots of local fish and seafood on the menu, and an experienced head chef who has worked there for 28 years.

Mains from about £8. latrattoria.co.uk

Diving packages cost £20 per person per dive kyarra.com swanagediveholidays.co.uk Kayaking trips cost £30-£50 per person studlandseaschool.co.uk Climbing and abseiling costs £40 cumulusoutdoorevents.com Half-day guided hikes with Jurassic Jaunts from £50 jurassicjaunts.co.uk

Buddies B&B specialises in accommodation and diving packages. Rooms from £50pn. buddies-b-and-b.co.uk Tom’s Field is a popular local campsite. Pitches from about £7pppn. tomsfieldcamping.co.uk

TNTMAGAZINE.COM

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UKTRIP

Jurassic Park England’s Jurassic Coast is a 185-million-year-old adventure playground you can’t afford to miss

Photos: Graeme Green, Thinkstock, Studland Sea School

WORDS GRAEME GREEN

I follow the rope down into the murky water. An object appears: a gun turret. My diving buddy, Sinbad, and I investigate the WW2 tank wreck, one of several that sank accidentally off the coast of Swanage during the British Army’s attempts to make tanks ‘float’ in preparation for the D-Day landings. A giant conga eel who makes his home here eyes us from a shaded spot.

We use a 100m-long rope along the ocean surface to guide us to another tank, this one exploded into two parts. We explore the site, moving carefully around crabs clambering on the wreck, so large they wouldn’t fit on a plate. “I love UK diving,” Sinbad exclaims back on the boat. The sea might be cold (we’re in semi-dry suits) and silty, a very different world for diving from tropical waters, but there are so many wrecks beneath the waves off this part of England’s south coast – mostly ships as well as tanks from WW1 and WW2 – that people like Sinbad prefer UK diving to going abroad.

This is my first day on England’s Jurassic Coast. Stretching 95 miles from Old Harry’s Rocks, just outside Swanage in East Dorset, all the way to Orcombe Point, near Exmouth in East Devon, it was England’s first region to become a Unesco World Heritage Site. The rocky landscape is a record of 185 million years of the earth’s history, a hotspot for geologists and fossil hunters, as well as adventurers who come to enjoy rugged cliffs, sea views and peaceful coastal villages.

Swanage, a two-hour drive from London, is a good base.

The town has a bit of a reputation for being a sedate place, filled with grey-haired visitors and residents, but, increasingly, young people are swinging by for more adventurous activities.

After a midday dive, I meet Dan on Studland Beach, just outside Swanage, for an afternoon of kayaking. We paddle out on the sheltered waters of Studland Bay to Old Harry’s Rocks, all-white stacks of chalk that erosion has separated from the cliffs, leaving them isolated out in the water. There are two versions of how the rocks got their name; either they’re named after an old pirate who lived and ‘worked’ in this area, or it comes from an old slang term for the devil, ‘Old Harry’. Dan leads me through archways and gaps in the rocks. “A lot of these caves were used for smuggling. Rum, tobacco …” he tells me.

It’s an easy paddle around the peninsula to a few clearwhite pinnacles of rock, one particularly pointed one called

Parson’s Nose or Witch’s Tit, depending on which you prefer.

As we make our way back to the beach, Dan points out the nudist beach further along the coast. “I’m always surprised that people are out – in all weathers,” he says.

Next day, I meet up with Tommo and spend the morning abseiling and climbing on Dancing Ledge, also a popular spot for coasteering. Tommo is right behind me as I scramble upwards and he supports me on the rope as I try more difficult climbs. There are plenty of footholds, cracks and ledges to haul and push myself up, but, still, this craggy rockface is challenging. “Climbing is a combination of chess and

“

A lot of the caves were used for smuggling

”

ballet,” Tommo says. “Chess is all about looking at the moves ahead and ballet has that skillfulness and gracefulness.”

Further along the coast, I meet Adam, a local walking guide. We hike to the iconic Durdle Door, an arch eroded by the ocean. “It’s the centrepiece of the Jurassic Coast,” Adam says. A field of buttercups and long grass, an impressive and very English sight, leads down to the famous arch and rocks, sunlight sparkling on the ocean behind it.

As we walk, Adam tells me about the wealth of fossils found in this area, including the recent discovery of a prehistoric crocodile-type creature on the Jurassic Coast that measured about 3.5m. The shifting of plates and other geological activity over millions of years has created a landscape of rock and cliffs that seem to tip, lean and jut out of the earth in all directions. The Jurassic Coast might be an oldie, but there’s plenty of life in Going bush: We brave it yet. ❚

NEXT WEEK

slug-filled sleeping bags in Oxfordshire

More on the Jurassic Coast at jurassiccoast.com

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HOTSHOTS

RUTH ROXANNE BOARD Talks travel photography

WINNER

HOT TIPS: From the hip Most of the time, we take photos straight on, as if we are looking out a window. Instead, experiment by shooting from different angles, avoiding being face-on. Varying your angle is easier than ever before, as most digital cameras now come with an LCD screen, so you can see how your frame is shaping up from a distance.

Try tilting your camera to shoot from above or below, and get nearer to your subject to capture the smaller details that will make your image stand out. The possibilities are huge. Start your new shooting technique by getting down on the floor and snapping a major monument from an ant’s view. It will look immense!

WINNER GOLDEN BODY, GOLDEN TEMPLE Stefan Bekker, South Africa

WHY IT WORKS Visitors to the holiest of Sikh shrines, the Golden Temple in Amritsar, pass in front of the lens in a flurry of bright tunics and scarves.

The area was one of the first gateways to India for travellers, and Sikhs continue to make the journey to sacred site. Usually, the temple will be the main point of interest with a straight-on shot. For this image, however, the lens is dropped and the unusual angle flips your attention from the shrine to the pilgrims.

RUNNER-UP FREEDOM Ashwini Kapoor, London, UK

RUNNER-UP

WHY IT WORKS Taken outside a hotel on the Isle of Skye, what would have been a bland, flat shot of the frontage has been transformed by pointing the lens at the sky. The hotel is still visible, but it serves as a backdrop to the seagulls gliding majestically above. The white of the clouds, birds and houses against the deep blue sky creates a feeling of tranquility.

A THREE-DAY TOUR OF SCOTLAND AND A PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE Upload your images to tntmagazine.com/hotshots First prize is a three-day tour of Scotland for two worth £218 from Haggis Adventures (haggisadventures.com).

Must be taken within three months of receiving prize letter. The runner-up wins a £60 photography course voucher from Nigel Wilson Photography (photographycourses.org.uk).

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TOP FIVE

1

ENGLISH COUNTRY GARDENS

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BELTON HOUSE, LINCOLNSHIRE

Ace York is conveniently located near York railway Station and situated in Micklegate, the oldest part of York. This grand Georgian 1752 Budget York hostel has many impressive features including stone-flagged entrance hall, a grand carved sweeping staircase, panelled rooms, vaulted cellar and a fabulous Rococo ceiling featuring Shakespeare’s head.

BOOK NOW Oak-beamed basement games room TV lounge Sauna Outside seating area

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Jolly picnics, strawberries and cream, Pimm’s and lemonade: when the sun consents to come out, these are the things that make a quintessential English summer. And, assuming that we get some sunshine, there’s no better place to soak up a healthy serving than an English country garden. With that in mind, we suggest you explore some of the National Trust’s best.

Start by getting lost in the 1300 acres of lush gardens surrounding Belton House. Built in the late 17th century, Belton House was designed to impress, with its elaborate reception rooms and marble floors. The sixth Lord Brownlow was Lord-inWaiting, friend and confidante to Edward VIII, and his home was the scene of lavish upper-class socialising. However, by the time of the death of the sixth Baron of Belton House in 1978, the Brownlow family had bad debts.

The seventh Baron attempted to retain the house, and the family name, by opening the grounds to the public. However, in 1984, the cost became too great for the Brownlow family, who turned

it over to the National Trust.

The Brownlows’ fall down the social ladder isn’t the only story behind the lavish manor. Giving historical ground to the drama in Downton Abbey, ‘Below Stairs’ tours give a glimpse into the daily lives of Belton’s staff. The stone walls and narrow corridors conjure the secrets of servants who were kept year round. Try to lift a coalscuttle (a heavy bucket used for storing coal) and, most difficult of all, discover if you could live off their daily beer rations.

Guests can take shade under the 21,400 ash trees, 9500 oak trees and 614 fruit trees. During World War II, Belton park was home to the Machine Gun Corps, who target practised across the now peaceful vista. Today, no guns are allowed, but you can let off some steam playing croquet on the sprawling lawn like a true aristocrat.

Bursting with green trees and flourishing flowers, Belton offers a romantic reminder of days when delays on the Underground didn’t exist. nationaltrust.org.uk/belton-house

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ENGLISH COUNTRY GARDENS

TOP FIVE CHECKING IN

2

BUCKLAND ABBEY, DEVON

Buckland Abbey’s Cider House Garden is newly opened to visitors for 2012.

Here, guests can help themselves to homegrown organic fruit and veg – how thoroughly splendid.

Meander through the espaliered fruit trees and berry bushes while admiring the abbey towering above.

There’s also a wild, flowery meadow, manicured hedges and even a hidden garden just perfect for contemplating your next voyage.

Photos: NTPL, Andrew Butler, Stepehn Robson; Edward Shorthouse; National Trust Images, John Millar

nationaltrust.org.uk/buckland-abbey

4

NYMANS, WEST SUSSEX

With a keen interest in theatrical pursuits, the Messel family, the former owners, turned Nymans into a stage set, and a playground for fantasy.

The pre-war paradise holds open-air theatres and photography workshops nestled in a 500ft valley. The house, transformed into a Gothic mansion in the 1920s, burnt down shortly afterwards, leaving romantic ruins filled with wildflowers. This garden has been designed to surprise and inspire all summer long. nationaltrust.org.uk/nymans

3

HIDCOTE MANOR, GLOUCS.

Inle Lake

This arts-and-crafts-style garden is divided into little ‘rooms’ surrounding a quaint manor house. It’s perfect for stealing yourself away and forgetting all about city living.

You can pick whichever little compartment of the garden matches your mood; there are ponds and fountains, brightly coloured flowerbeds, and elaborately sculpted hedgerows. It’s easy to see why 12 full-time gardeners are needed here. nationaltrust.org.uk/hidcote

5

BENINGBROUGH HALL, YORK

This imposing red-brick Georgian mansion is surrounded by sharply manicured lawns, perfect for lounging.

It was accepted by the government in lieu of death duties at the measly cost of £29,250 in 1958 and now holds 100 18th-century portraits for the National Portrait Gallery. The grounds are a living work of art, with a community orchard and exotic flowers unfolding along the gravel walkway. A stroll along the walled gardens makes for an ever-sospiffing afternoon in the sun.

FOUR SISTERS INN AND RESTAURANT OVERVIEW This simple, familyrun guesthouse is perfectly placed by a jetty that functions as a gateway to Myanmar’s (or Burma’s) stunning Inle Lake. Guests stay in bungalows set in a lush courtyard, while local food is served up by the sisters – well, two of them, as the other two have moved abroad – in the adjoining house.

WOW FACTOR The sisters are lovely ladies who can’t do enough for their guests.

A huge breakfast of pancakes, eggs, toast and coffee sets travellers up for the day, and you can enjoy a feast of traditional Burmese fare in the evenings.

ROOMS Basic, but comfy. The walls are paper-thin and the bungalows too dark to read in come nightfall, but everything is clean and, if you complain loudly enough, chances are you’ll get a hot shower. The fans rarely work, however, so don’t visit in summer if you can’t put up with the heat.

BILL PLEASE £10pn, including a big breakfast.

Nan Pan Qtr, Nyaungshwe, Myanmar (Burma)

nationaltrust.org.uk/beningbrough-hall

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YOU ASKED FOR IT...

LAURA LINDSAY FROM LONELY PLANET

a few years now I’ve been Q For interested in walking the Camino De Santiago pilgrimage. However, as a single female traveller, I’m concerned about safety and wondered if you could offer some advice in this respect.

Joanna Sargent, via email

74

end of the year and would like to use the opportunity to take as many weekend trips as possible. Can you suggest where to go? We haven’t seen much of Asia yet and would like to book flights with budget airlines and take ferries or trains.

M-Ch, via email Kong is fantastically located to enjoy A Hong a huge number of weekend breaks across Asia. The Philippines, Thailand, China, Singapore – you name it and you can most likely squeeze it in. Budget airline Air Asia provides a number of routes from Hong Kong, including Kuala Lumpur (3 hours, 45 mins) and Bangkok (3 hours) for cheap weekends away.

A popular break from Hong Kong is to the Las Vegas of the East, Macau. Like Hong Kong, Macau is a special administrative region of China and can be reached from Hong Kong by an hour-long ferry ride. Not only is Macau cheap and easy to get to from Hong Kong, it is fascinating. First established by the Portuguese, the area is distinctly Asian but with a European flare in the form of cobbled streets, baroque churches and Portuguese cuisine. One of Macau’s biggest attractions is its hundreds of casinos, huge emporiums of gambling and entertainment open 24 hours. Check out the British-royaltythemed Emperor Palace Casino.

All casinos provide a free shuttle service to and from the ferry terminal.

TIP

OF THE

FORGET MACHU PICCHU WEEK Go to Moray, a unique Inca archaeological site near Cusco, often missed due to focus on Machu Picchu. Also visit Huacachina, a stunning oasis in the Ica region.

Take a dune buggy and go sandboarding in the desert!

Olivia Johnson, via Twitter

STICKY FINGERS Watch your bags in Lima. Really. When I was there, two of my friends had their passports nicked just before we were set to fly to Cusco for the Inca Trail. Nightmare. Then, once they got new passports, another friend had her iPod and camera stolen at Lima airport.

Great city, great food, great pisco sours.

But also great thieves.

Elle Seaton, via email

A LONELY PLANET GUIDE

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If your question is answered, you’ll win a Lonely Planet guide of your choice.

This is a reader forum — TNT and Lonely Planet accepts no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by anyone using the information provided.

Photos: Getty

783km of the Camino de Santiago is A The a popular hiking route with both religious pilgrims and walkers alike. There are a number of versions of the route, but the most popular is the Camino Francés, which runs from Roncesvalles on the border with France across northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela in the far north west of Spain. The appeal of the hike stretches beyond its religious significance, as it is packed with highlights, including wandering through the vineyards of Rioja and León’s stunning gothic cathedral half way along the route.

In terms of safety, Spain is considered a very safe country to travel within. Specific to the Camino de Santiago, there have been reports of men exposing themselves to female hikers.

The best advice is simply not to walk at times when the route is particularly quiet (very early in the morning or late at night). You will find the route at its busiest in the summer months, when you will come across lots of other travellers like yourself and so are less likely to encounter such problems. More serious forms of sexual harassment are uncommon but if you would prefer to travel as a group, onfootinspain.com offer guided tours along the route.

boyfriend and I will be in Hong Q My Kong for a couple of months at the

READERS’ TIPS ON ... PERU

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Santa Croce 2160 - Venezia

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Send us a horizontal photo of yourself with a copy of TNT from anywhere around the world and, if we print it, you’ll win a trip for two to Bath and Stonehenge with Anderson Tours, valued at £104! » Email your pictures to ontheroad@ tntmagazine.com along with your name, where you’re from and where the photo was taken, or see tntmagazine.com/world.

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NAIROBI VILLAGE, EGYPT Megan Coonan and Chelsea Murray, from Australia

BEST / WORST TRIP

THE TRAVELLER

NERYS DAVIS, 31

ROB HOWARD, 27

Hay-On-Wye, Wales

London, England

BEST Berlin, because it feels like there are no boundaries. Everyone is always so nice to you, even if you are drunk and stumbling in the streets. I have never had a bad night there.

Weirdest travel experience?

I went to a war museum and they were demonstrating how the tanks worked. One of the tanks started rolling backwards and crashed into the car park.

Scariest travel experience?

On my honeymoon, my new wife and I decided to go for a hike up a mountain.

She didn’t know I was scared of heights.

It was a long walk down.

Best holiday memory?

Summers in Dorset when I was a kid.

WORST When I went to Vienna, I caught some kind of stomach sickness. I was vomiting all over the place. At the end of the trip I had to be carried off the plane because I couldn’t walk from the sickness. » Tell us your best/worst trips, email laura.chubb@tntmagazine.com

SPLASHING OUT

Photos: TNT, Thinkstock

LE TAHA’A, TAHITI Luxury Holidays Direct is offering savings of £960pp with this deal on a Tahitian island escape. Goodbye, grey London!

Seven nights is £2425pp (020 8774 7299; luxuryholidaysdirect.com). Includes B&B accommodation in a Taha’a Overwater Suite, flights and a three-course dinner for two with wine. Valid for travel between November 1 and December 20.

THE INSIDER

MICHAEL BALL London co-founder Travel Massive

My first ever big trip was when I was six years old. My dad got a job in Thailand, so our family moved to Bangkok for a year. It was a big thing for us to do then, as it would be now.

My most challenging travel experience was moving to Sydney in 2009 without knowing the city or anyone in it.

It ended up being the best thing I’ve ever done, though.

My favourite place in the world is hard to choose! Sarawak is amazing, one of the few places I have been that seems relatively untouched by tourists. Fraser Island is incredible as it feels completely unique. But if I had to choose one, maybe Byron Bay. I had an amazing month there in 2009.

The next trip on my travel wishlist is North Korea. I’d like to go there before it changes, as I can’t see it being the same in five years. Right now, it would be fascinating to visit.

My guilty travel pleasure is a good chilled beer, even though everyone seems to favour cheap booze when travelling.

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[Caption] Freewheelin’: there are 250 miles of bike lanes in Copenhagen SWEDEN

Copenhagen

DENMARK

DENMARK COPENHAGEN

GETTING THERE Direct flights from London Gatwick to Copenhagen start from about £91 return with easyJet. easyJet.com

GERMANY

[Caption] Sitting pretty: the bike is a symbol of the city 78

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Ticket to ride The capital of Denmark’s love affair with cycling sees tens of thousands cramming the bike lanes. We tour the city with them WORDS ANNA NORMAN

Copenhagen is now as synonymous with cycling as Paris is with café culture and Berlin is with nightlife; bikes are an inherent part of its identity, along with design, beer and fashion. Some 36 per cent of Copenhageners make their daily commute by bike, and there are 250 miles of cycle lanes within the city – pretty amazing for a compact place with a population of about 600,000.

That this chimes so well with contemporary ideals, such as ‘going green’ and urban community, has seen urban planners in cities including Vancouver, Melbourne and New York seeking to emulate the city’s integrated bike lanes (there’s even a verb for it: ‘Copenhagenise’). As a keen cyclist, I was excited by the prospect of using the city’s famous blue bike lanes when I first visited Copenhagen several years ago, but was still unprepared for how all-pervasive the cycling culture here is. The sheer number of bikes strewn around the place – many barely locked up – is a continual source of amazement; most residential streets have dozens stacked up outside each apartment block.

On a weekend trip back to Copenhagen to check out the city’s new ‘Bicycle Superhighways’ – new city-to-suburb bike routes, the first of which were completed in June – I’m reminded how well sightseeing and the bike combine in Copenhagen. This small city can be crossed, safely, in the space of an hour on two wheels, and yet the bike allows you to see the place at a leisurely pace, and with the ability to stop and start with ease.

Upon arrival, I head over to the Baisikeli bike-rental shop (baisikeli.com), in central Copenhagen, to hire my own green machine. The affable owner always gives strict instructions about local cycling etiquette: stay on the right-hand side of the bike lanes – which are separated from motorised traffic – to allow people to overtake; raise an arm in a sort of semisalute if you’re about to stop; and go with the pedestrians at traffic lights if turning left.

Water plays a big part in the Copenhagen experience, and cycling on the lakeside paths – shared with a multitude of joggers, and lined with beautiful terraced houses – is one of the great joys of this city. The lakes stretch from the trendy area of Vesterbro, in the south, to the more genteel neighbourhood of Østerbro in the north, passing beside Nørrebro, on the western side, on the way. I stop off in the latter for a spot of late-morning boutique browsing; as well

as being the most multicultural neighbourhood in this fairly homogenous society, it’s also the artiest district, and home to some of the hippest shops and bars.

The bridge that links Nørrebro to the city centre, Dronning Louises Bro, is the site of the busiest bike lane in the city. Some 35,000 cyclists cross it every day, and

“

The city is crossed in an hour on two wheels

”

the bicycle rush hour here is an exhilarating experience.

Heading eastwards, I reach tourist-saturated Nyhavn – a canalside street of colourful 17th-century buildings – that was once home to Hans Christian Andersen. This waterfront area has been getting a lot of attention over the past few ›› years, being the site of some exciting architectural

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projects, including the Henning Larsen-designed Opera House, the shiny new Royal Danish Playhouse, and, further down, the granite parallelogram that is the Black Diamond.

On the waterfront are the harbour baths of Islands Brygge – a popular spot for a summer dip. The chilly water isn’t beckoning me in today, though – Copenhagen’s summers are barely any better than London’s.

While I haven’t covered half of the city’s attractions, my humble bike has allowed me to do a near loop of a good part of the centre in a matter of hours, showing that there really is more to Copenhagen than the Little Mermaid and the royal palaces (though the latter are still worthy of a visit if you have more time). I finish the day back in Vesterbro, for some beers and Nordic grub in Kødbyen, the former meatpacking district that’s now the buzziest nightlife zone.

I’m not alone in heading to the bars by bike. Cycling is such a normal part of life here that people travel around on two wheels at all times of day and night. It’s this communityfriendly challenge to the dominance of the motor car that sees me planning my next trip back to Copenhagen every time I visit. ❚

Majesty: the pretty Royal Palace

NEXT WEEK Asturias, Spain: Cider, skinny dipping and landslides

MIDRANGE

LUXURY

Copenhagen’s ‘hippy district’, the Freetown of Christiania, is a popular attraction. The self-declared state is currently undergoing a ‘normalisation’ process, but its off-beat bars still attract weedsmokers in their dozens. Seek out Morgenstedet, a cheap, communityfocused veggie restaurant. Mains £8. morgenstedet.dk

The wood-fired oven pizzas at Mother are made with organic sourdough bases, and are tasty as hell. Situated in the city’s Meatpacking District, Kødbyen, it’s a great place to kick off an evening before heading to one of the many cool bars and clubs nearby. Mains £8-15. mother.dk

If you want to sample some muchhyped New Nordic cooking, head to Relae, which offers up one meat and one veggie three-course menu daily, both equally adventurous and locally sourced. What’s more, the place is located on one of Copenhagen’s buzziest streets. Daily menu £38. restaurant-relae.dk

DRINK

Café Bopa is a perennially popular bar known for its friendly atmosphere and cheap cocktails. Located in the gentrified neighbourhood of Østerbro (Copenhagen’s equivalent of Islington), it has late opening hours and DJs at weekends. Small beer from £3. cafebopa.dk

With an excellent range of local tipples, as well as a fine selection of homely Danish food, Dyrehaven is a retro-themed spot. Wooden walls are lined with mounted deer heads and vintage photos, while DJs pick up the pace in the evenings. Glass of wine from £4. dyrehavenkbh.dk

An exclusive lounge bar inside the Sofitel Plaza Hotel, The Library Bar is all about dark-wood panelling, dim lighting, Chesterfield-style chairs, live jazz music, and – as the name suggests – rows of leather-bound books. Serving up an excellent range of classic cocktails from £9. librarybar.dk

SLEEP

Europe’s largest five-star hostel, DanHostel Copenhagen City attracts all sorts of travellers, from backpackers to whole families, and even businessmen. With clean and stylish rooms and a central location on the waterfront, it’s no surprise it’s so popular. Beds from £14.50pn, rooms from £51pn. danhostelcopenhagencity.dk

In a central location near the waterfront and botanical gardens, and just a few blocks from the city’s new upmarket food market, Ibsens Hotel is a good bet for an affordable but comfortable stay. Doubles from £86.50pn. ibsenshotel.dk

Located in Copenhagen’s famous Tivoli amusement park, right in the centre of the city, Nimb’s Moorishinspired building houses one of the city’s most luxurious hotels. Doubles from £380pn. nimb.dk

EAT

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BUDGET

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Scanbalt Experience

The expert on budget travel in Scandinavia, The Baltics and Russia

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LAPLAND SPECIAL with JOKKMOKK MARKET from ¤400 This trip is partly the same as the 7 days Magic Lapland Adventure but it also includes the Jokkmokk market. That is a unique event where the sami people from all over Lapland come to participate in the festivities.

* * * f f o % 10 * * * E P O R U RUSSIA & EASTERN E 7 Days RUSSIAN NEW YEAR’S TOUR from ¤500 Helsinki-Petersburg-Moscow-Tallinn Have a great New Year’s tour in a wintry Russia and celebrate Sylvester on the Red Square in Moscow (This tour can be combinated with the Lapland Christmas Tour)

7 Days BALTIC CRUISER from ¤300 Helsinki-Petersburg-Moscow-Tallinn Visa Free Russia visit and only travel with overnight ferries between four top cities!

This trip will depart September-April (including Easter).

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Exit here This is Novi Sad in 48 hours WORDS KELLY GRIFFIN

DAY 1: 10:00 Annual music festival Exit has fast become one of the world’s top summer party destinations, not least because it’s held in the stunning 18th-century Petrovaradin Fortress which overlooks the blue Danube. But while Exit may have put Novi Sad on the map, this Serbian city has much more to offer the fun-loving traveller. Start your day by soaking up the atmosphere along one of Novi Sad’s oldest, and certainly most beautiful, streets, Dunavska Street. Meander through nearby Dunavski Park and along Zmaj Jovina, the city’s main shopping stretch. Be sure to stop at one of the many bakeries or food stalls and grab a burek, a favourite Balkan breakfast dish consisting of layers of crispy, oily dough and melting cheese – though it can be made with meat, potato or spinach.

12:00 The Petrovaradin Fortress is undoubtedly Novi Sad’s main attraction. It’s one of Europe’s oldest and bestpreserved fortresses and, proudly, has never been taken by the enemy. If the clock tower looks peculiar, it’s because the hands are reversed. The little hand, in fact, counts the minutes while the big hand tells the hours. Apparently this is so sailors can tell the time from farther away. It’s affectionately known as the ‘Drunken Clock’ because in cold temperatures, when the timepiece’s metal contracts, its time slows down, while in summer, when the mechanism relaxes, the time speeds up.

14:00 Boasting breathtaking panoramic views of the city across the Danube, the fortress also has a museum, Novi Sad City Museum (museumns.rs), which charts the development of the city from prehistory to present. Visitors 82

can also explore artist studios, cafes and a delicatessen.

The Serbians have a huge coffee culture, so grab a hit of caffeine on the terrace and take in the views.

17:00 A vast number of catacombs lie beneath the fortress, and while many are blocked off from tourists, you can explore a select few by joining a tour group. For maximum chills, go when the light is dimming at sunset.

19:00 If it’s a clear night, stick around the fortress until 7pm, when the observatory opens, and peer up into the night sky.

20:00 For dinner, head to the Balkan Express (Dr. Vase Savica 3a) for hearty Serbian dishes (try the calf’s head with entrails), plus ales and live music. Service is excellent, too.

The restaurant is made from wood and thatch, with musical instruments hanging from the ceiling.

21:00 Novi Sad is a university town, which we all know is code for ‘party town’, and, as such, the city comes alive when the sun goes down. High-tail it to Route 66 (Despot Stefan Boulevard 5) for live music – anything from rock, pop, blues, funk and ska to drum’n’bass, reggae, dub and electronic music.

23:00 Street Laze Teleckog is the go-to place for partying and you can stop off at any of the clubs here, such as Cuba Libre House (13 Laze Teleckog). Known for its Caribbean carnival atmosphere, prepare for strong cocktails.

00:00 For a truly memorable night out, you’ll want to go back towards the fortress to club Jelisavetin Bastion.

Entering along a dark and narrow hallway, you’ll hear music wafting through the air, getting louder and louder as you

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Danube days: stroll or boat along the river

approach the main area. Once inside, you’ll see the venue is laid out so that different music can be played in different parts of the club, including a large outdoor space where revellers dance until dawn.

DAY 2: 11:00 Nurse your pounding head with a gentle stroll along the iconic Danube. This stunning river landscape has inspired artists for centuries and it’s not hard to see why. Adding to the idyllic scene, it’s not unusual to see families sailing their boats along the river on weekends.

13:00 Follow the Danube to The Strand, one of the Danube’s finest beaches, where you can take your pick of coffee shops and restaurants along the sandy shore. It is possible to go swimming here, but be wary – the current is strong and the water surprisingly murky.

14:00 Literally translating as ‘time machine’, Vremeplov (vremeplov.net) is a 1920s-themed pastry shop, where the coffee is fantastic and the cakes are second to none. It boasts a charming garden, too, which is perfect on a summer’s day.

16:00 Kick back at Martha’s Pub (Laze Teleckog 3), a buzzing boozer with an upstairs bar and patio that serves the best honey rakija in town. A popular beverage throughout the Balkans, honey rakija is an alcoholic drink made from distilled fermented fruit – commonly peaches, apples, pears, cherry, figs, blackberry and quince. The alcohol content is normally 40 per cent, so take it easy.

Return tickets from London to Novi Sad, via Belgrade, start at about £220 with Wizz Air wizzair.com More on Novi Sad at visitnovisad.rs

Party town: Novi Sad’s nightlife is pumping

Colour and culture: the city has history galore TNTMAGAZINE.COM

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Amazon rainforest IQUITOS, PERU

ECUADOR

IQUITOS MAP

PERU REQUEST BRAZIL

GETTING THERE LAN Airlines fly from London Heathrow to Iquitos via Madrid three times weekly, with return fares starting from ÂŁ515. lan.com

PLEASE! LIMA

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Seeing red: spot scarlet macaws in Iquitos

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Welcome to the jungle One of the world’s most mysterious natural wonders, the Amazon is nature’s territory, untamed by man. We head deep into its heart WORDS JENNIFER CARR

WHEN TO GO: July to December tends to guarantee the I’m being ushered down a gangplank on swirl, and my tiredness dissipates at the least precipitation and consistent the darkest of nights, one devoid of stars thought of the wilderness that awaits. sunshine, which means better and surely impossible for even the most Hopping out on to an elevated gangway opportunities to spot wildlife. avid carrot-eater to adjust their eyes to. with stilts, I learn our rustic lodgings are My apprehension is captured in the gaze of perched immediately over a piranha-infested CURRENCY: £1 = PEN4 a torch-bearing boatman, who steadies my swamp. Sleep walking or taking a nighttime (Peruvian Nuevo Sol). stare as I clamber on to his 25-seater craft dip, therefore, is not advisable. Neither is ACCOMMODATION: In the in Leticia, Colombia’s most southerly city. jungle, Albergue Tacana Comunidad a preoccupation with technology; there’s A frontier settlement of sorts, Leticia sits not a wifi connection or phone signal to be Multietnica de Tacana is a tranquil on the border of Peru and Brazil to create found, just hammocks, books, games and the guesthouse with rooms from £7pn, South America’s Amazonian triangle. The ever-present rustlings of life in the jungle. It’s including breakfast. area is known as ‘the lungs of the earth’, strangely comforting, as confirmed by Jorge, alberguetacana.com thanks to its being responsible for 20 per who declares: “If the jungle is silent, be In Leticia, No-frills hostel Casa cent of the world’s total oxygen supply. cautious. It means an anaconda is nearby.”

Del Kurupira offers free wifi and The Amazon does trickle into Colombia, After we’re greeted by local Peruvian decent-sized dorm rooms. From £5 but I want to explore its upper tributaries so tour company Maniti Expeditions’ beaming, a night. maplandia.com I can delve deeper into the world’s most personable hosts, we head off to a small SEE: visitperu.com/loreto.htm species-rich tropical rainforest. Hence the boat estuary in a rowing boat in search of caimans trip – a necessary evil that’s taking me 10 hours southwards, (a sort of South American alligator) and one of the world’s towards the murky waters of Iquitos in Peru, the largest largest freshwater fish, the paiche. At more than five feet jungle-locked city in the world. I try and focus my excitement long and sporting devil-red scales, these bad boys look as if on Iquitos – the destination, not the journey – as our snug, they would gobble you up the second you slip overboard. petroleum-scented vessel speeds down river. As the first But they’re actually timid creatures that simply have a good streaks of a russet dawn stain the sky, I spot small communities appetite. “It’s the piranhas you need to look out for,” grins congregating on the roofs of their rain-soaked abodes. It’s the Jorge. At first glance, these small black fish, the Amazon’s worst Peruvian flooding in 22 years and I am in deep. best-known scavenger, don’t look like they’d put up much of a fight. On cue, Jorge wiggles his bamboo fishing rod Into the wild and a piece of bait in the dark waters around us. A frenzy Some cities I instantly fall in love with for their high-octane, of scales and flashes of razor-sharp teeth erupt in the 24-hour madness. New York, Bangkok, Cartagena and Buenos shallows. “If you’ve bloody cuts or it’s your ‘lady time’,” says Aires are up there with the best of them. Iquitos, sadly, is not.

Jorge a little awkwardly, “don’t fall in or put any body parts It’s got all the mayhem – thick blankets of smog roll into every in the water”. Got it. corner of town, while spluttering Latino-style tuk-tuks thunder Despite the warnings, we linger in this section of black past at frightening speeds all night long – but no soul. Like an water, primarily because piranhas have a reputation for overdose of Marmite, I just can’t stomach it. Fortunately, I’m tasting damn delicious. We sling old-school wooden rods not here to loiter. over the boat side, using raw chicken as bait; the dark waters I gratefully disembark and meet my guide, Jorge, a native explode once more. Lightning-fast scales divebomb the of the Yanamono region of Peru. We slip out of the smoghooks and I lift the rod from the water, unfortunately sans fest without looking back, and head 70km south to where lunch. These buggers are smart. I repeat the process, hooking the river meets Rio Yanayacu, a tributary on which our base more raw flesh on to my rod and plunging it deeper. I’m ›› camp sits. The ride is peaceful and pacifying after the urban about to give up when a sharp pull on the rod hints of TNTMAGAZINE.COM

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Clockwise from above left: cruise down river with the caimans; our writer meets local villagers; listen to the rustlings of the rainforest from your lodge success. I yank hard and a six-inch whiskered catfish comes flying out of the water, almost slapping Jorge clean in the face. It’s not razor-toothed or particularly terrifying, but it’s an edible start to my fishing career.

A tribal exchange After devouring our freshly barbecued catch back at base camp, we depart to visit a local indigenous tribe. The boat weaves silently between six-foot reeds and tall spiraling trees dangling vines – which I’m tempted to swing on – while others drip with bulbous red fruits pock-marked by peckish scarlet macaws. Everything is comically surreal in its hypercolour, as though I’ve stepped into a Disney movie.

Thirty minutes and not a single tourist later, we’re hiking through undergrowth and sliding along muddy paths laced with intricate spider webs. I’m not in any rush to see anything eight-legged. As if reading my mind, Jorge is quick to point out that “when you’re this deep into the jungle, there’s always an element of surprise”. Comforting words. I’m just happy I can still hear frogs belching in the undergrowth; the noise a reassurance that an anaconda isn’t close by. Five minutes and one near quick-mud fatality later, we spy a sleepy arachnoid shuffling up a tree trunk. Anyone who says furry animals are cute clearly hasn’t done a stint in the Amazon.

Continuing up a trail that’s now a virtual mud flow from recent precipitation, we’re led into a clearing where 18 indigenous locals and a tribal elder are gathered. Makeshift wooden shelters built into a concentric circle frame the space. The elder says nothing, but nods simply at us before smudging red splodges of pigment – squeezed from the local sumac berry – on to cheeks, foreheads and chins. “This 86

means you’re welcome, and signals to other tribes you’re friends of the Yaguas,” Jorge informs us.

We proceed into the clearing and watch as the tribe initiates a fertility dance, which we’re soon dragged into, boy-girl-boy-girl, conga-style. Chanting ensues. The elder then lets out what can best be described as a war cry. He makes a beeline for me, points to my retro Casio watch and smiles suggestively.

“Do you want to make an exchange?” Jorge interprets.

Beware of the piranhas

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The elder has already begun gesturing between his magnificent corona (crown) of red and blue macaw feathers and my well-worn eBay bargain. I have no clue what the time is anymore.

Animal encounters I sleep deep, waking once to check for tarantulas under my bed, then again to a sinister splash in the water beneath my cabin. Sometimes, in the Amazon, it’s best not to probe too far. We breakfast early on eggs and coffee, and enjoy the tranquil, ethereal light afforded by a morning storm, before leaving for a waterlogged Monkey Island. Home to 15 species of indigenous monkey, the island is a must-visit in this region.

Fifty minutes later and we’re re-enacting Noah and the Ark; large Amazonian howler monkeys, spider monkeys and a particularly pretty squirrel monkey fly into our boat from the branches above. They land without apology on our heads and

“

Ben Fogle: Peru enthusiast

Don’t put any body parts in the water

”

shoulders and attack the bags of bananas we’ve brought.

With 12 monkeys in the boat, plus a giant green, orangewinged Amazon parrot and three scarlet macaws, we feel like we’ve reached capacity. Then a longboat appears through the reeds beside us – it’s a local, his son and their catch of the day: a two-metre anaconda with a body wider than a rugby player’s thighs. The native offers it up to hold and I succumb, my eyes agog. The snake coils itself around my neck; I’m both terrified and awed. The beast is removed and a prehistoric mata mata turtle with Batman-esque armour popped in my lap. Its dart-shaped head disappears into its shell and I can’t blame it – what with squawking parrots, gargantuan snakes and an army of monkeys, the scene is a bit much for me too.

Buzzing from our run-in with some of Amazonia’s finest ›› specimens, we take a different route back through the

The Insider's guide TV presenter and adventurer Ben Fogle is such a fan of Peru, he named his beloved pet dog Inca.

(Unfortunately, poor Inca was laid to rest earlier this month.) After appearing in Covent Garden to unveil a Lego model of Machu Picchu, built from an incredible 250,000 bricks (pictured), he found time to share his top tips on the country with TNT. What a nice chap.

When did your love affair with Peru begin?

It was one of the first places I visited outside of Europe when I was 19 years old. I’ve been captivated ever since, and have visited a number of times over the years.

What’s your top tip for travellers visiting the country?

My top tip is to explore the diversity. What’s great about Peru is that you’ve got the Pacific Coast, you’ve got deserts, you’ve got jungle, and you’ve got mountains. So I’d advise you try to take in a little bit of all of it. It’s a big country, which means lots of travel, but it’s worth it.

Where’s good for an adventure?

The whole of Peru is great for adventure. One of my favourite places, however, is the Cotahuasi Canyon, the deepest in the world. I’ve been lucky enough to go out there and I found it an exciting place, slightly off the beaten track. But, really, anywhere in the Andes is perfect for those looking for adventure.

Where’s good to chill out?

My favourite place to chill out is Cusco, the Incan capital high up in the Andes and the gateway to Machu Picchu. It’s got lovely hotels, basic hotels, delicious restaurants, culture and lots of people. It’s a mixture of being an exciting, vibrant place, but also the perfect location to chill out.

Monkey Island is wild

Check out the video of our interview with Ben Fogle at tntmagazine.com/travel/iquitos

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river’s shimmering waterways. A pink freshwater dolphin appears beside the boat, extending its nose amicably like a human tipping their hat to say hello. We’d been warned that spotting pink dolphins when the water’s this high can be tricky, but it seems luck is on our side.

A final toast Jorge suggests we celebrate with a trip to the local ‘off licence’, a hut 30 minutes north that’s home to a local distiller of potent Amazonian sugar rum. Despite the fact it’s barely 11am, there’s a collective nodding of heads. We trek over muddy hills until we reach the hut and procure three bottles of 45 per cent proof liquor that’s less than a week old. It costs £1.

Our toast happens later that afternoon, all glasses facing towards the river. To the Amazon – a place of magic and madness. It’s the lungs of the earth, and I feel lucky to have seen it breathe. ❚ A four-day, three-night tour with Maniti Expeditions costs £310 including accommodation, three meals a day, snacks and transfers. manitiexpeditions.com

Mata mata: a predatory, prehistoric turtle

Keep your eyes peeled for the pink dolphin

WEIRD WILDLIFE THE AMAZON’S WACKIEST CREATURES

GIANT ANT EATER Looking like something from a cartoon, the giant ant eater flourishes in the Amazon because its body temperature sits between 32 and 35 degrees, so the humid conditions of the forest floor ensures it keeps warm. And, with a sense of smell that’s 40 times stronger than man’s, ant eaters can sniff out their lunch from miles away.

Photos: Jennifer Carr, Thinkstock, Getty

MATA MATA Looking like a bulletproof armoured car, this sedentary reptile has a horn on its tubular snout and can reach 18 inches in length. Unlike tortoises, the turtle is firmly carnivorous and devours Amazon fish with the effective aid of a camouflage that resembles fallen muddy leaves.

Close encounter: meet the locals

PINK FRESHWATER DOLPHINS This endangered freshwater species of dolphin has unfused neck vertebrae, enabling it to turn its head 180 degrees and effectively hunt the Amazon’s tree-trunk-riddled rivers for fish that hide in lesser reached places. Renowned for their resourcefulness, when water levels drop, pink freshwater dolphins move into areas where concentrated prey including crabs, piranha and small turtles can be found.

NEXT WEEK Oktoberfest: It’s stein time in Munich ...

Lodge life

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europe

we

2011 TRIPLE AWARD WINNERS BEST EUROPEAN TOUR OPERATOR AS VOTED BY YOU

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Book by 22 July. Enter promocode ‘getaway’

*

‘EVERY OTHER DAY’ SERVICE TO AND FROM EVERY DESTINATION ON OUR NETWORK DOOR-TO-DOOR PICK-UPS AND * DROP-OFFS AT THE BEST HOSTELS GUIDES ON THE * AWESOME COACH, FULL OF LOCAL

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KNOWLEDGE, TIPS AND ADVICE

LONDON INFO NIGHT THURSDAY 19 JULY FROM 6PM BUSABOUT, 258 VAUXHALL BRIDGE RD

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08450 267 514 TNT_1507_travel.indd 96

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info@busabout.com 13/7/12 10:44:33

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FETHIYE, KEKOVA’S SUNKEN CITY, OLOUDENIZ, BLUE LAGOON, KAS & KALKAN INCLUDES: 7 nights’ accommodation, breakfast, lunches and dinners, snorkels/masks/flippers and fishing lines, board games, on board sound system

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EGYPT

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WAS £653

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August bank holiday 4 DAYS Amsterdam August Bank Holiday 24-27 August 2012

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*Terms and conditions apply. Prices quoted are for specific departures only. All trips subject to availability. Discounts are off the base trip price only, and do not apply to food funds, sailing funds and local payments. Flights not included.

Egypt trip price includes local payment based on $1 = £0.642, which must be paid locally in USD. Discount taken from the trip price and doesn’t include local payments. Exchange rates correct at time of printing, and subject to currency fluctuations, depending when payment is made. See online for full terms and conditions.

TNT_1507_travel.indd 99

TNTMAGAZINE.COM

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TRAVEL

Travelling to Europe on a Walkabout?

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£

•£

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Valid on all 2012 departures. Book by 22 July. Enter promocode ‘summer’

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COMPASS BUSTER DAYS (WED) £415 NOW £355 (STUDENTS NOW £335) Orkney, Western Isles, Isle of Skye & Loch Ness

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WAS £215 NOW £175 (Students Now £165) GALWAY, INIS MÓR, GIANT’S CAUSEWAY, DERRY & BELFAST Includes FREE entry to: Cliffs of Moher, Giant’s Causeway & Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

WAS £315 NOW £255 (Students Now £239) BLARNEY CASTLE, CLIFFS OF MOHER, GALWAY, INIS MÓR, GIANT’S CAUSEWAY & BELFAST

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Includes FREE entry to: Blarney Castle, Cliffs of Moher, Giant’s Causeway & Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

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WAS £125 NOW £95 (Students Now £89) Includes FREE entry to: Blarney Castle & Cliffs of Moher

WAS £215 NOW £175 (Students Now £165)

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BLARNEY CASTLE, CLIFFS OF MOHER, KILLARNEY, INIS MÓR/CONNEMARA

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WWW.SHAMROCKERADVENTURES.COM TNTMAGAZINE.COM 101

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TRAVEL

WEEKEND BREAKS AND DAY TOURS WEEKEND BREAKS PARIS BY EUROSTAR from £225 Departs every week ( Friday - Sunday) throughout the summer.

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EGYPTIAN EXPRESS Ancient Egypt at its very best in 9 intoxicating days!

EDINBURGH BY RAIL from £170 7th September. Return train travel, guided sightseeing tour with a local Scottish guide, 2 nights B&B hotel accom & Tour Manager.

egypt

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from only

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BRILLIANT BANK HOLIDAY BREAKS Saturday 25th - Monday 27th August

PARIS BY EUROSTAR

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HOLLAND & BELGIUM

from

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Pyramids & Beache s fr £359 Ancient Egypt + Dahab by the Red Sea

DAY TRIPS

-15 days

¸ Sat 21st July A Day in Wales from £50 ¸ Sat 4th Aug Cambridge from £32 ¸ Sun 5th Aug Warwick Castle from £32 ¸ Sat 11th Aug York from £45

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Turkey - 12 day tour Croatia Sailing - 8 days Russia - 6 day tour Morocco - 15 day tour

from £449 from £319 from £449 from £799

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102 TNTMAGAZINE.COM

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al Travel First FCEes....tiTHv E DIFFERENCE

TRAVEL

Festivals and tours for 2012!

EXPERIEN

Galway Oyster Festival 28 - 30 SEPT Flight & Hotel Packages fr £329 Our newest tour for 2012! Join us at Irelands outstanding food festival to celebrate the start of the oyster season. Includes: Flights, Hotel Accommodation, Airport Transfers and more.....

La Tomatina 27-30 AUGUST

Hotel Packages

£149

3 or 4 day option. City Hotel with roof top bar & pool. Return transfer to Bunol, wine and water festival option, welcome party, walking tour & more

Wine & Water Festival Specialist!

Oktoberfest 27 SEPT - 7 OCT

Packages from

£259

We cover all weekends of the festival with our tours and you can choose from our coach options from London, weekend flight tours or Hostel or Hotel accommodation only packages. Don’t forget our 8 Day Coach COMBO which includes Amsterdam, Austria, Munich and Paris.

BeerHall reservations available for every Sunday Limited spots available

Rugby Tour NEW ZEALAND VS WALES 24 NOV

Packages from

£149

Day trip £149, coach transport, pre game party and match tickets.

Overnight Trip £179, coach transport, pre game party, match tickets and central hostel accommodation.

Contact us for details on New Zealand Vs Italy.

firstfestivaltravel.com

020 7471 6417

Full itineraries and tour information can be found on our website or by calling our office. First Festival Travel, 68 North End Rd, London W14 9EP Closest Tube: West Kensington

TNTMAGAZINE.COM 103

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TRAVEL

Get amongst it!

Next Stop?

With the African specialists Absolute Africa 30 years overlanding in Africa

CHEAPEST VACCINATIONS ONLINE VACCINATION SEARCH NO CONSULTATION FEE! Swapping the concrete jungle for the real thing?

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www.absoluteafrica.com Phone: 0208 742 0226 Email: absaf@absoluteafrica.com

0808 141 2324

www.1stcontact.com/clinic tntclinic@1stcontact.com Castlewood House, 77/91 New Oxford Street, London WC1A 1DG, Tottenham Court Road, direct: 020 7759 5437 41400

A whole range of trips incl. game drives in the Masai Mara and the Serengeti, gorilla trekking, guided game walks, rhino trekking, evening game drives and so much more.

1st Contact Travel Clinic is registered by the Care Quality Commission. Registration number: E010000632. 1st Contact Travel Clinic is a registered Yellow Fever Vaccination Centre by the National Travel Health Network and Centre. Registration number: UKYFVC2800.

h is l g n E h c a e T Combine travel & work 400_Clinic_TNT_qtr_ad.indd

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11

Perfect for readers looking to: ‹ Combine travel and work ‹ Teach during their gap year ‹ Have a career change ‹ Work part-time with flexible hours

} There are many job opportunities worldwide to teach English to children, teenagers or adults. } You could be in Eastern Europe, Italy, Spain, Costa Rica or Japan teaching English in a classroom, privately one-to-one, or even online.

DATE 18-19 Aug 12 TIME 9am - 6pm VENUE

Holland Park YHA Holland House, Holland Walk Kensington W8 7QU High St Kensington or Holland Park

Language School

se Weekend Intensive TEFL Cour

* Teaching English as a Foreign Language

For further info or to book your place see:

tntmagazine.com/tefl

ONLY

£150

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104 TNTMAGAZINE.COM

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13/7/12 14:42:04

TRAVEL

2 1 0 2 T S E F R E B OKTO is yours! ce oi ch e Th T? H IG FL L? TE O H COACH? CAMP?

ator to Munich We are the largest UK oper 2 Sept - 7 Oct) and cover the entire fest (2 29 ✔ Coach tours from £2 from £99 ✔ Accom only camping £219 ✔ Hotel packages from Join the

PERTS at Munich’s BEERFEST EX odation – coach tours and last accomm

famousThalkirchen camp 00 PP SEATS ALREADY SOLD! 20 ER OV – Y RR HU t. fas g llin places fi

2012

GREAT VALUE GREAT VALUE LONG WEEKEND TOURS - PLUS BREAKFAST DAILY! AUGUST BANK HOLIDAY (24-27 AUG 2012) ONLY

28 - 30 Aug - great val ue tours from just £145!

HURR

£169

✔ Red Light District ✔ Famous Bike Ride Tour ✔ Return coach to Amsterdam ✔ Canal Boat Cruise ERDAM TIME IN AMST IT’S PARTY PARTY TIME IN AMSTERDAM

✔ Excellent Central Accommodation ✔ Breakfast daily ✔ City tour

JOIN PP AT THE CRAZ IEST AN FOOD FIGHT IN THE W D LARGEST ORLD

IT’S

Y – PP’s 2012 La Tom tour has broken all sal es record!!

Contact asap for last places. ✔ 3 or 4* hotels in sup erb central Valencia position ✔ Great breakfasts ✔ Welcome party ✔ Transfer to tomato fi ght Bunol ✔ Fully escorted by exp erienced PP guides ✔ Souviner t-shirt

HOGMANaY 2012/2013

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EDINBURGH - EUROPE’S BIGGEST NEW YEARS EVE PARTY

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info@pptravel.com 020 7930 9999

Hostel Accommodation Only FROM £219 Hotel Accommodation Only FROM £249 Coach Tours FROM £269 Hi Speed Trains Tours FROM £319

OF THE YEAR.”

TOUR DATES: 30TH DEC 2ND JAN

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would all like a chance to crack your book. Ready Reader Birthday Boy: Let’s forget that we are living cheaply on pasta from Sainsbury’s and blow the rent money on what really matters ... beer! We are staying out all night until you nail the hottest girl in London, no exceptions. We will be dodging the landlord for another month but the memories of the revelry will keep us smiling even after the seventh scoop of Ramen

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noodles. Priorities, mate. Love from make it rain Ship Wrecked: To the girl in the green dress with one purple heel at the Ship Tavern in Holborn, you were a hot mess. The entire pub held their breath when you stumbled outside, but your quick cheer lightened the mood instantly.

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Stay classy London, this Aussie is out! J Want to be with Wimbledon: To the Federer fanatic fan on Murray Mound, flexing your muscles and shouting at the referee was arousing. Watching your triceps twitch with every serve made it hard to keep my eyes on the big screen. Your passion for Pimm’s and everything Wimbledon was endearing and the tight polo was white hot. Let’s play a game? Don’t feel like you need to hold back on the grunting. Tennis Tease Heel Raisers: Cheers to all the women on the District line train going to Monument. Although cobblestones are charming, they are crappy in heels. But you girls pull it off everyday from 9am5.30pm. No crutches so far this summer. You make it look easy and you mind the gap. Bobby Messy and Testy: To the man asking for a tissue outside Waxy’s pub on Saturday, I highly doubt that would be enough to clean up your mess. Maybe ask for a mop or a street cleaner? Might be best to just start praying for rain to clean the sticky sick off of you. Lulu

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Ever heard of Kings of Leon, Your Sex is on Fire? Bus Boy Fizzing Out: To the American students who were at Kensington Gardens near the bandstand July 4, yes congrats you won the war ... over 100 years ago. But we had a great fire, ever heard of it? I am all for putting a pint in my hand but not for double-fisting it with sparklers. Red White and Blue too Sand Man: To the man with the shovel and bucket on the South Bank beach who spent all afternoon shaping and sculpting sand into a perfect starfish. Your dedication and strong arms impress me. If you ever want to stop playing in the dirt and need a drink or a nude model for a merman sculpture I hope I am nearby. Muse Dedication in the Drizzle: Cheers to the family and friends who held up “Will you marry me?” signs in the freezing rain under the London Eye for the shaking man and his now fiancee. That was brilliant. So many people get engaged in and around the London Eye it is no longer unique, but your commitment to your crony was amazing to watch. Born-again Romantic All Lit Up: To the bystanders watching the Shard light up thanks

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