April 15-21 2013 Issue 1546 tntmagazine.com
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WIRE-FREE GROOVEZ HEADPHONES, WIRELESS SPEAKERS & AN IPAD CASE
GUTS, GORE AND MORE Behind the scenes of the new Evil Dead
PREPARING FOR PAMPS A guide to running with the bulls
GREAT GREEK ISLANDS Where to party, sightsee and get naked
L A V I V E R D RECOR hops s ic s u m ie d don’s in n o L & y a D e d Stor Best of Recor
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+ CRICKET’S CHRIS ROGERS TRAVEL DEALS CYCLING CORSICA MOTHER’S DAY GIFT GUIDE
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LAURA CHUBB EDITOR laura.chubb@tntmagazine.com
EDITOR’S LETTER We’ve gone a bit retro at TNT this week, inspired by the upcoming Record Store Day, which celebrates the city’s independent retailers with a bunch of free gigs and one-off releases on Saturday. Flick to P8 to find out what not to miss, then discover a catalogue of cool stores and eccentric characters with our list of London’s best indie music shops (P10). We’re also celebrating the Eighties’ most shocking movie, Evil Dead, by meeting its star Bruce Campbell (P24), a producer on the remake out this week.
THIS WEEK
LONDONDIARY
4
LONDONNEWS
6
DRINK & EATS
12+13
@TNT
14
SPOTTED
17
LONDON SOUND
18
COMPETITION
20
CHATROOM TIFFANY STEVENSON 21 LONDON SCENE
22
LONDON FOCUS
24
SPARE TIME
28
LIFESTYLE
30-33
MOTHER’S DAY GIFT GUIDE 30
Photos: Getty
HEALTH & BEAUTY
32
64
FEATURES LONG LIVE THE LP
8
We honour legends who make and sell great indie music for Record Store Day
NEWS
36-41
DEAD RISES AGAIN
SPORT
42-46
Horror legend Bruce Campbell takes TNT behind the scenes of the new Evil Dead
TRAVEL
49-69
THATCHER DIVIDES
40
DIARY
50
NEWS
51
UK TRIP
52
LATE DEALS
54
HOTSHOTS
55
On-fire Middlesex captain, Aussie Chris Rogers, on Lord’s and his Ashes hopes
TOP FIVE
56
CORSICA ON WHEELS
TIPS
58
SHORT BREAK
60
A cyclist’s view of the rugged French island, home of Tour de France’s first leg
BIG TRIP
64
CLASSIFIEDS DESPERATELY SEEKING
87-89 90
40
24
In death, as in life, the ‘Iron Lady’ splits opinion in the UK and around the world
JOLLY ROGERS
FEELING HORNY
44
60
64
How to survive Pamplona’s Running of the Bulls festival and the best of Basque
8 TNTMAGAZINE.COM
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Editorial Group editor Carol Driver Editor Laura Chubb Content editors: Sub/ Sport Michael Gadd Travel Helen Elfer Entertainment Alasdair Morton Web Oliver Jones Social media Dan Thorne Contributors Daisy Carrington; Charlotte Maguire
LONDONDIARY
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Popera: catch L’elisir d’amore and Don Pasquale where you’d least expect it
Design and production Head of design and production Jon Cooke Design / picture editor Patricia Montenegro Sales Commercial director David Alstin Sales manager Jaqui Ward Sales administrator Abby Nightingale marketing & events Marketing and events executive Phoebe Cherrill ACCOUNTS Margaret Roberts | Suzanne Welsh tnt MULTIMEDIA LTD CEO Kevin Ellis Chairman Ken Hurst Publisher TNT Multimedia Limited Distribution Emblem Direct Ltd Printed by Wyndeham Peterborough Limited News AAP SAPA NZPA Pictures Getty Images, TNT Images, Thinkstock TNT Magazine , 111 Cannon Street, London EC4N 5AR tntmagazine.com General enquiries Phone 020 3011 1066 Fax 020 7953 7957 Email enquiries@tntmagazine.com sales enquiries
Phone 020 7989 0567 Email sales@tntmagazine.com Where to get TNT
cover price: £1.95 where sold See tntmagazine.com/findtnt for pick-up points or tntmagazine.com/emag to read TNT online Subscriptions and Distribution Caroline Penn 01603 559004
Shhh... SECRET LONDON pop-up opera Soho and more
Think opera is all about fat ladies and stuck-up audiences looking down their nose towards the stage? Think again. This highly inventive collective take opera and stages it in ways and places you’ve not seen before. Churches, barns, pubs – all have housed pop-up opera shows that involve a wealth of props and audience participation, even. It’s no gimmick though, with the quality of the ‘fat ladies’ as much a focus as the novel presentation. The spring tour features Gaetano Donizetti’s L’elisir d’amore and Don Pasquale across London. £14
Apr 16, 7.30pm, and other London locations until May 20. See website for more details 67 Dean St, Soho, W1D 4QH Tottenham Court Road popupopera.co.uk
All thieves of TNT bins will be prosecuted.
cirque du cabaret
post-apocalyptic spoken nerd: book club technobabble
Cirque du Cabaret have had various cabaret and burlesque residencies across town but now hole up in the Leicester Square Theatre with a focus on comedy. Veteran David Armand (La Soiree) and up-and-coming talent to watch Elliott Mason feature alongside Banbury Cross, Sophia St Villier and sword swallower Jewels Good.
This book club meets on Mondays and rather than leafing through The Kite Runner and some old Austen – as most do – they look at post-apocalyptic fiction in which it has all gone spectacularly tits up for the world. To get your week off to a literary start, get down and discuss George R Stewart’s Earth Abides.
£20
TNT Magazine is printed on paper from sustainable forests. There is no business connection between the proprietors of this magazine and TNT Ltd, the worldwide transportation group. Copyright here and abroad of all original materials is held by TNT Magazine. Reproduction in whole or part is forbidden, except with permission of the publishers. Registered as a newspaper at the Post Office.
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April 20, 8.30pm WC2H 7BX Leicester Square cirqueducabaret.com
FREE
April 15, 7pm 126 York Way, N1 0AX King’s Cross post-apocalypticbookclub.co.uk
The Festival Of The Spoken Nerd folk – stand-up mathematician Matt Parker, science guy Steve Mould and geeky songstress Helen Arney – bring their new show to the Bloomsbury to take on computers, IT and our fumbling ways with ever-changing technology. It’s supposed to make our lives easier, you know! £14+
April 16-18, 7.30pm WC1H 0AH Euston Square thebloomsbury.com
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WIN a West End weekend Wotif you won a weekend at the fabulous
Radisson Blu Edwardian, Covent Garden
Bugged: Nordic Food Lab’s Ben Reade has concocted creepy crawly cuisine
for you and a special someone, including tickets to a West End show of your choice, to the value of £100?
pestival Euston
Sick of eating the same thing? Struggling to find something new to surprise your palette with? Look no further. Culinary research institute Nordic Food Lab – as part of the Wellcome’s festival of insects Pestival – lays on a feast of creepy crawlies, using scientific methods that would even make Heston gulp. Insect canapés and talks about “the diversity of deliciousness” combine in this quirky evening. For the brave only. £50
Apr 30 & May 1, 7.30pm Wellcome Collection, NW1 2BE
PICK ME UP festival
Ilya & Emilia Kabakov’s cinema installation posits you as ‘the happy man’, although it’s a tad misleading. Sitting down in an empty cinema seat or in one of the four empty chairs round a dining room table, the difference between Soviet propaganda and the real world experience is explored.
This festival celebrates graphic art, design and illustration in an 11-day show. At Pick Me Up you can peruse, purchase as well as pick the minds of your favourite visual artists. Satirical stars including Modern Toss and Aardman (brains behind Wallace And Gromit: The Curse of the Were-Rabbit) will be in attendance.
Until April 24, 11am-7pm University of Westminster, NW1 5LS Baker Street p3exhibitions.com
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wellcomecollection.org
the happiest man FREE
Photos: Cameron Swan
Euston Square
Enter at
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April 11-28, 10am-6pm Strand, WC2R 1LA Temple somersethouse.org.uk
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12/04/2013 13:11:10
LONDONNEWS
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WHAT A TWEET: MET OFFICER RESIGNS A Metropolitan Police officer who posted offensive tweets about Margaret Thatcher following the former PM’s death has resigned. Sergeant Jeremy Scott quit after he was told he could be suspended for posting the messages on Twitter, one of which read: “The world is a better place today now that c*** is dead. Now for Cameron, May and Osborne.” Charming. Allan Gibson, head of the Met’s Department for Professional Standards, said: “This officer’s behaviour is ... unacceptable and it is right that he has resigned.”
It was wonderful London-based special needs teacher Craig Parr describes the Margaret Thatcher ‘death party’ he helped arrange in Brixton
WESTMINSTER SEX WORKERS AT RISK Sex workers in Westminster are today at a greater risk of violence because of a fall in demand, a new study has found. The report by Westminster Council showed recession led prostitutes to take greater risks to make ends meet, and are travelling further afield to find clients, which can make it difficult for police and charities to keep track of them and offer help. Councillor Ian Rowley, chairman of the task group set up to research sex work in Westminster, said: “The risk of violence has increased substantially.” However, local sex work projects blamed the closure of brothels in Westminster, the BBC reported.
ON THE TUBE THIS WEEKEND’S CLOSURES/WORKS
CIRCLE: No service between Hammersmith and Moorgate on Saturday.
HAMMERSMITH & CITY: No service between King’s Cross St Pancras and Barking on Saturday.
METROPOLITAN: No service between
Harrow-on-the-Hill and Uxbridge on Sat and until 9pm on Sun; also no service between Baker Street and Aldgate on Sat.
NORTHERN: No service between High Barnet, Mill Hill East and Archway all wknd. PICCADILLY: : No service between
Acton Town and Uxbridge all weekend.
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Man in uniform: London cyclists are taking to wearing Equisafety’s ‘polite notice’ high-vis vests in order to trick motorists into slowing down
Central London at a standstill Funeral procession for Margaret Thatcher to stop public transport
There’ll be major disruption to traffic and public transport this Wednesday as Margaret Thatcher’s funeral looks set to bring central London to a standstill. Roads and bridges along the funeral procession route from Westminster to St Paul’s Cathedral will be closed from 7am, which Transport for London said would disrupt at least 30 bus routes from 6am. TfL added that further road closures and bus diversions were possible as the route is being finalised, adding that it would make details available to the city’s commuters as soon as possible. The Tube, DLR and London Overground will run as normal – although stations are likely to be busier than usual. Boris bike docking stations within the road closure area will be suspended.
There’s also scope for disruption not accounted for by TfL thanks to the protesters who have vowed to line the route and turn their backs on the casket. Police have said peaceful demonstrations in London will be permitted, but urged organisers to contact the Metropolitan Police in advance and make their plans known. Read more on the potential for protests on P39. The former British prime minister died aged 87 last week, sparking an outpouring of fierce and opposing opinion from politicians and the public alike. While many praised her legacy of making Britain “great” again, the song Ding Dong! The Witch Is Dead was headed for number one in the UK music charts as TNT went to press.
THIS WEEK IN LONDON... An alternative to ogling Margaret Thatcher’s funeral procession on Wednesday this week is the Thatcheristic exhibition at Gallery Different in Fitzrovia, which features 10 artists’ depictions of the Iron Lady. Officially opening on the day of Thatcher’s funeral, the exhibit will run for 10 days to tie in with a ‘number 10’ theme (referencing the Downing Street address at which the British prime minister lives). Ben Moore, director of public art organisation Art Below, which is putting on the show, said: “Thatcher’s death has highlighted the divide in people’s thoughts and feelings towards her and I hope this exhibition reflects this in a visual way.” Find out more at gallerydifferent.co.uk.
Maggie: a work of art
TNTMAGAZINE.COM
12/04/2013 17:19:52
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12/04/2013 12:17:28
Legendary: Soho’s Berwick Street, famed for its indie record shops, hosts a festival marking Record Store Day on Saturday
For the record Record Store Day hits town this week, championing London’s best indie shops and staging one-off gigs Words alasdAir morton & LAURA CHUBB In the Eighties there were 2200 independent record stores in the UK. By 2009 this number had fallen to just 269. The music industry’s changing as the digital world takes over. And that’s why this year’s seventh Record Store Day, on April 20, is so important. RSD is an annual global event in which independent record stores come together to champion music with a shedload of exclusive releases and gigs. Berwick Street in Soho, home to the capital’s densest concentration of indie record stores, is the centre of the capital’s RSD events with stores Sister Ray, The Music and Video Exchange and Reckless Records leading the party. “The street will be closed off for the day and a stage built,” Charles Taylor, Reckless Records owner, tell us of the special event taking place on the famous street. “It’s the first ever festival to take place in Berwick Street!” Cult rock band Wire will be playing at the event, as will folk-rock troubadour Frank Turner and rising star singer-songwriter Gabrielle Alpin, in what is one of many gigs taking place across the city. As much a part of RSD though are 8
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exclusive, one-day-only releases, and this year has no fewer than 500 special records, DVDs and books from the likes of David Bowie, Paul Weller and Nick Cave set to hit. “I’m looking forward to hearing Frank Freeman’s Dance Club by Captain Beefheart and Change Becomes Us by Wire,” Taylor says of the records he’s most anticipating. Record Store Day’s official film, Last Shop Standing: The Rise, Fall And Rebirth Of The Independent Record Shop, based on Graham Jones’ book, will screen on a loop on the street between 12pm and 7pm. Brit Jones will also be on hand for a Q&A at 5pm. “[Record Stores] have had to diversify and make themselves a meeting place again,” Jones tells us, explaining how London’s indies have had to adapt and what is key to their future prosperity. “Many now put on events every week, normally a new or local band, and they support the local music scene and local non-music community, too. They also stock more vinyl and stick to products you’re not going to get in the supermarket.”
Today, with multinationals and chains claiming so much of our high streets, independent record stores, and their knowledgeable, enthusiastic staff, are something not just to be cherished, but to be supported, and Record Store Day is an integral part of this. “There’s a huge amount of extra publicity for record stores,” Taylor says of the impact the day has. “We’ll see a lot of unfamiliar customers [on the day] who hopefully will keep returning. It’s also an affirmation of the wonderfulness of music and vinyl in particular.” Or, as Record Store Day’s UK coordinator Spencer Hickman says: “April 20th will be a real celebration of culture – and there’s no better place to celebrate than inside an independent record store!” So get down, catch some bands, snag a rare release, and check out our list of London’s best indies. LONDON’S BEST RECORD SHOPS ›› Record Store Day. Saturday, April 20. Berwick Street, W1F 8RH Tott Crt Rd recordstoreday.co.uk Also visit reckless.co.uk; berwickstreetlondon.co.uk
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12/04/2013 17:33:47
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WIN HOW TO ENTER
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Old-timer: Reckless is one of Soho’s most famous stores
Turn it up: folkster Frank Turner will play live
A SUMMER OF STOKE TRAVEL TNT has teamed up with Stoke Travel to offer you and a friend the summer experience of a lifetime. You could get your hands on a combo trip including two nights at the Running of the Bulls, two nights at the San Sebastian surf camp and one night at Bilbao BBK Live festival (valued at more than £260). All inclusive of drinks, meals, transport and camping accommodation (with tents, mats and sleeping bag set up for the winner’s arrival).
Icon: Berwick Street featured on Oasis’ famous (What’s The Story) Morning Glory? album cover
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SISTER RAY soho
PHONICA RECORDS soho
This West End indie record store had been going strong for almost 30 years, stocking new and second-hand vinyl, CDs and rarities, spanning modern material to classics. Caters to all crowds, is easily navigable and has some absolute bargains to boot.
One for dance heads, there’s vinyl and CDs here, with a focus on edgier club music (think nu jazz, exotica), but enough krautrock and French electro thrown in for good measure. Staff seems happy to help, too. Mon-Wed, 11.30am-7.30pm; ThurFri, 11.30am-8pm; Sat, 11.30am7.30pm; Sun, 12pm-6pm 51 Poland Street, W1F 7LZ Oxford Circus phonicarecords.com
Mon-Sat, 10am-8pm; Sun, 12pm-6pm 34-35 Berwick Street, W1F 8RP Oxford Circus sisterray.co.uk
ROUGH TRADE EAST BRICK LANE This indie institution – the first Rough Trade shop was opened in Ladbroke Grove in 1976 and spawned the legendary Rough Trade Records (see Buzzcocks, The Smiths, The Strokes) – is one hell of an ambassador for the longevity of the record store. The eastern outpost has a stage for instore gigs and ace Monmouth Coffee. It hosts a number of free shows for Record Store Day. More deets online. Mon-Thur, 8am-9pm; Fri, 8am-8pm; Sat, 10am-8pm; Sun, 11am-7pm 91 Brick Lane, E1 6QL Shoreditch High Street roughtrade.com
HONEST JON’S west london This legendary store first opened in 1974 and specialises in funk, jazz, reggae and soul. Today, Honest Jon’s also runs a record label of the same name with Blur and Gorillaz star Damon Albarn, releasing compilation albums that dig into geographical enclaves of musical history (the tunes of young black London postWorld War II; Afro-Cuban jazz from the Bronx). The eclectic style of both label and shop is matched by past customers – in the early years, it was a favourite of both Johnny Rotten and Courtney Pine. Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm; Sun, 11am-5pm 278 Portobello Road, W10 5TE Ladbroke Grove honestjons.com
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SOUL BROTHER EAST PUTNEY
KRISTINA RECORDS dalston
A must for fans of soul and jazz, the selection here takes in both independent and major labels, plus rare original vinyl and special anthologies from the Soul Brother label.
New and second-hand vinyl from a comprehensive range of genres – Brazilian, minimal wave and spiritual jazz are examples – with a decidedly underground bent.
Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm; Sun, 11am-5pm 1 Keswick Road, SW15 2HL East Putney soulbrother.com
SOUNDS OF THE UNIVERSE soho Sounds of the Universe does what it says on the tin, offering up what the owners reckon is the largest selection of world music available in the UK. Mon-Sat, 11am-7.30pm; Sun, 11.30am-5.30pm 7 Broadwick Street, W1F 0DA Oxford Circus soundsoftheuniverse.com
Mon-Fri, 12pm-8pm; Sat-Sun, 11am-8pm 44 Stoke Newington Road, N16 7XJ Dalston Kingsland kristinarecords.com
ALL AGES RECORDS CAMDEN Perfect your mohawk before hitting up this punk, ska and hardcore specialist, which started life at Camden Market before moving into a permanent space to flog CDs, vinyl, DVDs and zines. Sells gig tickets, too. Mon-Sun, 11.30am-6.30pm 27A Pratt Street, NW1 0BG Camden Town allagesrecords.com
FLASHBACK north london Proving the record store is far from dead, this Islington gem launched in 1997 and garnered enough of a rep to open a second branch in Crouch End a decade later. Its second-hand stock is well-respected, while the Flashback ethos is to replace “an intimidating run-in with surly cooler-than-thou members of staff” with “an enjoyable way to spend some time, knowing that the staff will be happy to assist you, whether your interest is Frank Sinatra or the WuTang”. Think the opposite of Jack Black in High Fidelity. Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm; Sun, 12pm-6pm 50 Essex Road, N1 8LR Angel Essex Road flashback.co.uk
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12/04/2013 17:33:57
MUSIC & VIDEO EXCHANGE west london
BRILL RECORDS clerkenwell This cute bolthole on Exmouth Market doubles as a cafe, with staff serving up a double whammy of great coffee and top tunes over the speakers. You can pick up CDs and second-hand vinyl or just browse while you wait for the beans.
With a constantly rotating stock thanks to the hundreds of records and CDs that exchange hands in this Notting Hill mainstay each day, there’s a formidable collection to browse, covering all genres.
Mon-Fri, 10.30am-6.30pm; Sat, 10.30am-5.30pm; closed Sun 27 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QL Farringdon clerkenwellmusic.co.uk
Mon-Sun, 10am-8pm 38 Notting Hill Gate, W11 3HX Notting Hill Gate mgeshops.com
vinyl pimp HACKNEY Get face-to-face with this east London up-and-comer’s ‘Great Wall of Vinyl’, which comprises a 12ft-high record collection spanning genres from drum ‘n’ bass to reggae, via pop, rock, techno, jazz, Latin and even more in between. On Record Store Day, acts from labels Planet Mu and Erased Tapes will play in store from 1pm until 10pm. Entry is free, it’s BYOB, and there’ll be burgers on the barbie. We’re sold. Mon-Fri, 12pm-8pm; Sat, 11am-8pm; Sun, 12pm-6pm 14 Felstead Street, E9 5LT Hackney Wick vinylpimp.co.uk
BM SOHO CENTRAL LONDON
Photos: Getty; Roman Skyva
London’s longest-running independent dance music store, BM Soho (above) is staffed by DJs, producers, label owners and club night promoters on the cutting edge of the scene, so you know what you’re getting here is good. It’s a cult spot for a reason, receiving new stock daily, and specialising in deep, soulful, minimal, tech, funky, electro and Jackin’ house, plus drum ‘n’ bass and dubstep. Yep, it’s all about the club music here, so not so much the place to seek out your new favourite chill-out tracks. But anyone with more than a passing interest needs to pay a visit. Mon-Wed & Sat, 11am-7pm; ThurFri, 11am-8pm; Sun, 12pm-6pm 25 D’Arblay Street, W1F 8EJ Oxford Circus bm-soho.com
LUCKY SEVEN STOKE NEWINGTON
DIRECT IMPACT MUSIC walthamstow
This ramshackle little spot (no website) extends the brightness of its post-boxred shop front to the friendly folks behind the counter, and is a treasure trove of cheap vinyl from just £2.
Worth seeking out for finds across reggae, ska, soul, R&B, rocksteady, gospel, soca, hip-hop, bashment, ragga and dancehall genres, on vinyl, audio and video cassettes, CDs and DVDs.
Mon-Sun, 11am-7pm 127 Stoke Newington Church Street, N16 0UH Dalston Kingsland Stoke Newington
Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm; some Sundays (call to confirm) 158 Hoe Street, E17 4QH Walthamstow Central directimpactmusic.co.uk
RESURRECTION RECORDS CAMDEN
SUPERTONE RECORDS & CDS BRIXTON
Have a penchant for black and corpse paint? Then check out this basement den of all things industrial, gothic, punk and metal.
Bring some sunshine into your life with this long-established reggae specialist. It started out in 1984 and, as a result, the collection is massive.
Mon-Fri, 10.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 10.30am-6pm 228 Camden High Street, NW1 8QS Camden Town resurrectionmusic.com
Mon-Fri, 11am-10pm; Sun, 1pm-7pm 110 Acre Lane, SW2 5RA Brixton supertonerecords.co.uk
HAGGLE VINYL NORTH LONDON This vinyl-only independent (above) is the sort of place that demands you set some time aside for a proper rummage – there’s a chaotic assemblage of rare records representing everything from acid to opera. Come in here with your heart set on anything in particular and you’re likely to go home empty-handed, but arrive with an open mind and you could find yourself leaving with an armful of unexpected gems. The staff gets some varied reviews, too, but all seem to agree on “eccentric”. And, yes, you can haggle on price. Mon-Sat, 9am-7pm; Sun, 9.30am-4pm 114-116 Essex Rd, N1 8LX Angel Essex Road hagglevinyl.com
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LONDONDRINKS
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Trolley dolly: be at the mercy of the mixologist
BAR
Arriving at BYOC is confusing. My drinking buddy and I are sure we’ve got the right address, but find ourselves standing in front of a bright-orange juice bar, as opposed to the low-lit trendy-fest guarded by a sneering doorman that the “extremely long” waiting list for bookings warned of on the website suggests. After a bit of embarrassed shuffling, we pluck up the courage to ask if we’re in the right place and are promptly guided down to the basement. A tiny, near pitchdark space, there are just six tables, a few candles, bare-brick walls and no bar. Instead, punters bring their own booze, and have their spirit(s) of choice blended by an impossibly good-looking barman who makes his way around the room pushing a trolley loaded with mixers – everything from bitters to home-made chilli syrup. You can make requests or put yourself entirely at the hot mixologist’s mercy. We do the latter. But having brought Havana Club 7, we want to mount a challenge and ask him to stay away from the Caribbean. Over the course of the evening, we’re poured an Old Fashioned, a rum sour, and something he spontaneously decides to call a Havana Buck, which serves up a serious chilli kick.
THE SCENE
A two-hour sitting costs £20pp, plus whatever you spent on the booze. We’re not entirely sure it’s cost effective – we had three (admittedly strong) drinks over two hours – but as one-off experiences go, it’s big fun. LC
BILL PLEASE VERDICT
28 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BJ
byoc.co.uk
LIVE MUSIC BARS
RONNIE SCOTT’S
BLUES KITCHEN
MAHOGANY BAR
A Soho institution since 1959, this hoppin’ joint has hosted some of the greatest jazz legends to ever hit the stage. The tiny venue was refurb’d to pack in more people in 2006 but the acts remain top-notch.
This much-loved Camden venue has got soul, and not just thanks to the music (there’s live blues and soul most nights of the week), but also the food (ribs, pulled pork) and grog (it specialises in southern bourbon).
A cute nook in east London’s maze-like Wilton’s Music Hall, there’s an eclectic roster of free live music every Monday night, and even a free buffet of Italian light bites. Extra cool points: the bar was first built in the 1700s.
ronniescotts.co.uk
theblueskitchen.com
themahoganybar.tumblr.com
Photos: James Perry; Getty
3 OF THE BEST
Covent Garden
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BITE SIZE
Ra-mania: super noodles in Soho
new chapter There are two new openings for foodies to get excited about this week, both of which have risen from pop-up popularity to become permanent spaces. First up is a swanky affair from one of the UK’s most promising new chefs, Tom Sellers, who cut his teeth at classic venues such as The French Laundry and alongside celebrated chefs including Tom Aikens. After hosting pop-up Foreword in Bethnal Green in 2011, Sellers’ first restaurant, Story, opens in Tooley Street on April 16, serving up a six-course (£45) and a 10-course (£65) menu rooted in British fare (think bread and dripping or beef cheek with stout and cauliflower yeast). The next big booking? Get in there early. restaurantstory.co.uk
bone daddies JAPANESE
As we leave newly opened noodle bar Bone Daddies around 8.30pm on a mid-week evening, having thoroughly enjoyed our meal for two, there is a queue snaking down the street and around the corner. Inside, it’s three deep at the bar with those waiting for tables. When it opened last November, a buzz quickly built around this restaurant from Aussie Ross Shonhan. And it’s well deserved for the chef with more than a decade of experience in Japanese restaurants the world over. With high tables and stools, packed in enough to give you a great vibe without it being too squished, it is a bustling new establishment where its popularity is matched only by the sterling cuisine. The menu is clear and simple – eight snack and ramen options, all made entirely from scratch on site and from only the freshest ingredients. It is a winning combination all round. The grub Our appetites are whet with a couple of starters – the fried chicken and salmon sashimi, which are both right little palette-pleasers. I’m feeling adventurous so ask for some recommendations. “Which is the hottest?” I ask before plumping for the tantanmen (sesame, chilli, pork mince, bok choy, with extra chilli). It’s an excitable bowl and incredibly satisfying, but one that is too spiced for my partner who goes for the equally as impressive, if slightly less fiery, miso ramen (corn, wakame, chicken, butter and chicken broth). Bone Daddies’ goal is simple – ramen done properly and with panache. It pulls this off wonderfully. THE SCENE
New launch: high-end eats at Story
experimental pizza The second serving of excitement is a rather different beast. Wood-fire pizza street food outfit Homeslice has just opened its debut restaurant in Seven Dials, with almost everything on the menu – from slices to glasses of wine and pints – priced at just £4. Hello bargain. Plus you can get experimental with pizzas boasting the likes of a spicy pumpkin base or sliced bone marrow. homeslicepizza.co.uk
cheese + wine, feel fine If you’re a fan of fromage, get down to the Cheese and Wine Festival at Southbank Centre Square, on from April 26-28. As well as offering handson workshops and demonstrations, there’ll be ample opportunity to nibble and neck some samples. We also recommend the cheese and beer pairing with Meantime for just £2.
Red and white wines (three of each from £4/ £16 per glass/ bottle) sit alongside lagers and ales (from £3), a selection of Japanese whiskies (from £7.20) and a range of cocktails, from alco-free fruit choices to ‘harder’ shochu variants (both from £7.80). Bill please Snacks from £3.50; ramen from £8. verdict This bustling restaurant is a must visit. The food is outstanding, the drinks refreshingly different and the vibrant buzz inside is addictive. alasdair morton Behind the bar
cheesewinefestival.com 31 Peter Street, W1F 0AR
bonedaddiesramen.com
Leicester Square
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I’m shocked so many people bought “Ding Dong The Witch Is Dead” when Thatcher died. who buys music these days?
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Why’d the chicken cross the road? To escape north Korean missiles
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not saying i don’t trust the internet, but there’s a discrepancy between the number of ipads I’ve won and the ipads I own
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Margaret Thatcher’s wish was to be cremated, but there was no coal
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a stunning turn of events: there was drinking on the streets of Glasgow
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LETTER OF THE WEEK Re: Julian Assange running for a seat in the Australian senate (TNT 1545): This latest stunt by a man hiding in London’s Ecuador embassy to avoid sexual assault claims in Sweden – and potential extradition to the US – shows contempt for the political process in his home country. Whatever you think of his Wikileaks efforts, the guy is hardly in a position to represent any constituency and insults them if he thinks he is. Christy Fowler, via email
UAE LAW RULES
Re: News view: It’s not Qantas’s job to inform fliers of the laws in Dubai (TNT 1544): It is the responsibility of the travel agents who are put on this planet to advise hapless tourists on the dos and don’ts of places they are going to. But since many travellers do not go through a travel agent these days, it is the airline that should present them with the necessary information. Do you know how irritating it is living here in Dubai and seeing these boiled tourists (no sunscreen), walking around in strappy little numbers (hello – you are in the Middle East bitches) and kissing in public? Insane! It gives all us Westerners living here a bad name because we’re tarnished with the same brush. Cheryl Rob, via email
‘IRON LADY’ RAGE Re: Death of former British PM Margaret Thatcher (tntmagazine.com): I don’t understand all this hate
for Margaret Thatcher. The so-called ‘Iron Lady’ was elected three times, so she must have done something right. And most of the people who partied in Brixton were not old enough or even born when she was in power. Aaron Wally Peardon, via Facebook
MAGGIE’S LEGACY Re: Thatcher: I grew up in the 1980s. Thatcher not only made a lot of working people unemployed, she also trapped those same people on benefits. Many of the problems that Britain is dealing with today, from housing to banking, were made when she was in power. Indeed, Thatcherism is about the only thing that was made in Britain in the 1980s. Shaun Bebbington, via Google+ EVIL DEAD /24 DARK SIDE OF ENGLAND /52
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Tweet us @tntmagazine @PyreSeal Re: Parties celebrating death of Thatcher: Okay, I get that Margaret Thatcher was kind of shady but celebrating anyone’s death is extremely shitty and gross. @TRGTALP Blair condemns Thatcher death parties: As if the man who led us into an illegal war has the right to advise the British public what is poor taste #pious #Bliar
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Gwyneth Lloyd: Re: London cyclists dressing as police to slow drivers down: If cyclists obeyed the Highway code maybe there would be less accidents, they are not just caused by car drivers. Zuzana Kovacova: Being a cyclist and commuting on Fulham Rd, I could tell you stories how drivers – cars, taxis, buses – think I am “a live target”. I obey the rules too. The difference for cyclists is if I have an accident we might die.
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walkabout closing Covent Garden Saturday, March 30, 2013 Photos by: Patricia Montenegro/ TNT More pics and tag yourself at facebook.com/tntmag
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Sister act: US band Haim defied their critics by actually being really good
festival
watch
super bock super rock
haim Heaven, WC2N 6NG April 24 | Doors at 7pm | £10
Super Bock Super Rock is one of the longest-running festivals in Europe, celebrating its 19th birthday this year, and is just 20 minutes from the centre of Lisbon in the beachy Portuguese coastal town of Meco. Headliners Arctic Monkeys, Queens Of The Stone Age and The Killers are joined by Azealia Banks (pictured), Johnny Marr, Kaiser Chiefs and Ash, with loads more still to be confirmed. If you fancy getting out to a big fest with top acts that is a little off the beaten track for most UK festival goers, this is the one for you. Meco, Portugal. July 18-20. £77. superbocksuperrock.pt
Impossibly hyped but deserving of the adoration that has been bestowed upon them, Californian sisters Haim – Este, Danielle and Aluna – set about proving all that ‘Hot Stuff in 2013’ press was more than unjustified hyperbole this week. It’s easy to mock those who’ve found fame – or at least critical attention – so soon into their career. Style over substance. A product rather than artists. It’s even easier to do this with Haim, the photogenic siblings from the sunny climes of La-La Land, tans and sunnies in place, who swept to the top of the BBC’s Sound Of 2013 poll. But check out last autumn’s single Don’t Save Me for proof of their merits. A chart-smashing, impossibly infectious slice of pop, it embodied all of Haim’s talents in one – it had that indie-folk-rock vibe, plenty of pop stylings and a touch of an R‘n’B vibe to its rhythm – and it silenced any critics. It was the sort of song that captured the Radio 1 teen crowd as much as it did the XFM musos. Haim have been playing together and in other groups for many years, counting Californian all-girl group the Valli Girls and The Strokes’ frontman Julian Casablancas’ solo tour among their numerous pre-Haim projects. It was coming together under their familial banner, however, that saw their talents coalesce. Since their triumph on the ‘Sound Of’ poll, their star has risen exponentially. They’ve a debut album in the works for later this year, one of 2013’s most hotly anticipated, and after this small show on the banks of the Thames, they’ll be back in London for an even bigger show at Koko next month. Get in at the start! Embankment
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NEW BAND
converse get dirty GIG April 17-19. 7pm FREE
The scruffed-up sneaker company synonymous with rock (see The Ramones for proof) put on this trio of gigs with indie-punks The Cribs (right) up first, then Ghostface Killah, followed by the retooled and gingerless Gallows on the final night. Pre-registration has closed for tickets though, so best hunt and cross your fingers.
Photos: Matt Barnes; Getty
The 100 Club 100 Oxford Street, W1D 1LL Oxford Circus the100club.co.uk
supernova ibiza send off
Soltek with The Upfront Project
CLUB
CLUB
sat, apr 20. 10pm-11am £15+
fri, apr 19. 10pm-6am £10+
Edwin Oosterwal (Rejected), Andrea Oliva (Cadenza/Be At One) and Anton Pieete (Rejected/Drumcode/Sci+Tec) hit up room one, with Neverdogs, Alex Flatner (Circle Music) and Patrick Podage (Noir) next door, and S/H/E Collective taking the reins of room three for the send-off for this season’s Balearic hedonism.
Two decades of house and techno come together for this genre-frying, era-defying bash. Acid house pioneer A Guy Called Gerald heads up a line-up including Milton Jackson, Glimpse, Trikk, Bobby Champs and Seldom Cinq, with a host more in tow for this new night in the Upfront Project’s acclaimed series.
Egg 200 York Way, Kings Cross, N7 9AX King’s Cross egglondon.net
The Lightbox 6a South Lambeth Road, SW8 1SP Vauxhall theupfrontproject.com
dear reader The buzz so far South African Cheri MacNeil takes a homespun approach to her third album, Rivonia, which takes its name from the suburb outside Johannesburg near where she grew up and where 19 members of the African National Congress were arrested in 1963. Her songs, fusing her charming voice, propulsive rhythms and heartfelt, piano-driven pop, take a personal and reflective approach over an overtly political one and are winning on their own, but given a more stark, human spin by the events that inspired them. The Critics say “You will seldom hear an album as genuinely heartfelt as this” David Long, Kyeo.tv the plug Rivonia is out now through City Slang. dearreadermusic.com
pink
the date
james + echo and the bunnymen
GIG
CLUB
GIG
Apr 24-28. 6.30pm £40+
sat, apr 20. 9.30pm-5am £17.50+
Apr 19 & 20. 7.30pm £38.40
The punk-popper plays not one but four dates here as part of her The Truth About Love Tour. After a brief stint as an ill-conceived R’n’B artist, Pink was reborn as a rocky, punky, solo pop star, and has found legions of fans with her stridently independent tunes and lyrics. She’s the pop minx with credibility, and attitude to burn.
Danny Krivit and Greg Wilson (above) both drop in to play three-hour sets in the disco lounge, with Date resident Tim Keenoy in support. The downstairs of The Loft will be turned into a full-on house room, as well, with Zepherin Saint, Master K, Dave Jarvis and Stuart Patterson kicking out the tunes at this sixth in the series.
It’s like the Nineties never left with this ace indie double-header. Ian McCulloch’s Bunnymen, whose last album, The Fountain, was out in 2009, support Tim Booth’s boys, who are sure to be offering up hits She’s A Star and Sit Down amidst cuts from 2009 and 2010’s mini-albums, The Night Before and The Morning After.
The O2 Peninsula Square, Greenwich, SE10 0DX North Greenwich theo2.co.uk
The Loft 77-81 Scrubs Lane, NW10 6QU Kensal Green residentadvisor.net
Brixton Academy 211 Stockwell Road, SW9 9SL Brixton o2academybrixton.co.uk
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Tiffany Stevenson The stand-up on what it’s like being a woman in a maledominated profession, Margaret Thatcher and ‘racist’ pens INTERVIEW alasdair morton
Tells us about Uncomfortably Numb... It is about getting older and what happens when we get older – do we become more like our parents, more right-wing and more middle class? Are you becoming more like your mum? Not like my mum but more like my dad, probably, with all the nasal hair! And the penchant for gambling. You also talk about the sexual inequality when it comes to ageing... It’s about women being under pressure to look 20 years old forever. All this Botox never looks better; we’re losing our humanity. I imagine a dystopian future where babies are injected at birth and women walk around with these baby heads on them. If that’s not scary I don’t know what is! Are we deluding ourselves into thinking we’re far more progressive than we really are? Definitely. We think we are, until something happens that makes you think. Being a woman in comedy, it can sometimes be like, “I thought I was in 2013 but actually it’s 1975 again.” How does class feature in your show? It’s about what the working class is credited with. In comedy, as working class you are never gifted with irony or satire, people think you probably just think it’s a fragrance from Calvin Klein. Whereas if you are an Oxbridge comedian people will assume you are being ironic, but everything we say is taken at face value.
Photo: Ashley Maile
Do a lot of people on the comedy scene come from that background? Definitely Edinburgh-wise. I didn’t realise this whole arts festival existed until my late 20s. Etonians take shows up there and some of the venues are run by old Etonians, too. The opportunities are more accessible if you have a privileged background. Have you found this to be the case throughout your career? I used to have a story in a show about a Cambridge comedian and a pen I have with the Union Jack on. I lent it to them and they gave it
Double standards: Tiffany tackles sexism, politics and nasal hair back saying, “There’s your racist pen back.” And I said, “How have you anthropomorphised a pen?” There was an assumption that if I had this pen I must be racist. Do you think Margaret Thatcher should have been given a state funeral? Absolutely not. The front page of The Daily Mail said, “The woman who saved our country.” She didn’t – she ruined our country. The destruction of the unions, the miners. I am all for funerals being more like weddings with more balance. Where they have a bride and groom, at funerals you should have for and against! We should be realistic about who she was. What made you decide to go from acting into stand-up? I started writing due to a lack of roles as an actor – you’re always waiting for the phone to ring. The beautiful thing about stand-up is you can have an idea in the morning and perform it on stage that evening. The instant gratification is amazing. How did you get a role in Stewart Lee’s 2006 production of Eric Bogosian’s 1987 play Talk Radio? That was my first role in Edinburgh. Stewart was directing, Tony Law was in it, so too Phil Nichol and Mike McShane. The only thing was that
we performed it in a giant upside down purple cow. Quite often, usually when I was doing my monologue, you’d be guaranteed a samba band would go past. To this day I still have not seen [Oliver Stone’s 1988] movie [version], as I didn’t want my performance to be influenced. Is this an approach you carry into your stand-up work? I am very about keeping my thoughts clear. Someone was saying the other day when we were talking about the Philpotts, “You should read Grace Dent’s column [in The Independent]”. And I said, “Not while I am writing this.” I don’t want it muddied by another’s opinion. What’s been your best on-stage moment? I had this show last November for Stand Up To Sexism and it was fantastic. I did my set and at the end did a little bit about what it’s like to be a woman in comedy. I prefixed it with “I don’t know if you want to hear this…” I was just honest about what it’s like being a woman in a job that doesn’t have many. People, equally as much men and women, got up and applauded. For me, in that moment, it felt, “This is my audience and my voice.” It was amazing. Tiffany Stevenson. Uncomfortably Numb. April 17-20. £10. Soho Theatre 21 Dean Street, W1D 3NE sohotheatre.com Tott Crt Rd
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Scream time: a remake that actually matches the original
evil dead FILM review by Alasdair Morton Starring: Jane Levy, Shiloh Fernandez | 18 | 91mins | Out April 18
promised land FILM Starring: Matt Damon, Rosemarie DeWitt | 15 | 106mins
Matt Damon reteams with his Good Will Hunting director Gus Van Sant for this life-affirming drama about a big company oil man who tries to convince a local community to sell their profitable land only to find his values put to the test. The duo won Oscars with their last outing alongside Ben Affleck – this time Damon collaborates with actor John Krasinski on the script. On general release April 19
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Remaking classic movies is risky. John Carpenter’s The Fog got an awful postmillennial treatment; The Omen became an abomination. Horror fans are tough to convince, too, but this video nasty retooling should appease fans of Sam Raimi’s original while bringing the ‘cabin in the woods’ set-up to a new generation. Uruguayan filmmaker Fede Alvarez makes his feature debut – with original team Raimi and Bruce Campbell on board as producers – for what is a new story with many similar elements. Jane Levy (TV’s Suburgatory) is a junkified twentysomething, out at the remote cabin with brother David (Shiloh Fernandez) and mates to kick her habit once and for all. Only one friend finds a human-skinbound ‘Book Of The Dead’ in the cabin, speaks aloud its words, and unleashes all manner of demonic nastiness that quite literally rips their precious plan to shreds. Alvarez may be short of big screen time, but he is a ferocious talent behind the camera, putting his leads through a procession of boundary-pushing gory sequences. The infamous tree rape is back, with chainsaws, nail guns and all kinds of sharp instrumentation put to flesh-slicing, scarlet-spraying effect. And it is proper scary too, as the dread and foreboding relentlessly builds en route to an unforgettable climax as an initially grim weekend turns full-on wretched. Alvarez manages that oft-missed tone of being both horrific and hilarious (in only the way that someone slicing off their own arm can be) without sacrificing either. In an era when remakes are all too common, this is one you shouldn’t miss. Good for: Horror fans, The Evil Dead fans, and those who want to be full-on shocked
tntMagazine.com
12/04/2013 13:08:33
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GIVE US A
angelos epithemiou and friends
GIGGLE!
COMEDY
You may not recognise him by name, but Angelos (aka Renton Skinner) is the plastic bag-carrying burger van owner who replaced George Dawes as the score keeper on Shooting Stars and has generally menaced panel shows and his own chat show audience since. A madcap character comedy creation unleashes new material. Pleasance Theatre Carpenters Mews, N7 9EF. Apr 18. £10 Caledonian Road pleasancetheatre.co.uk
chuck close prints
third finger left hand
EXHIBITION
THEATRE
Chuck Close’s blown-up photos look like someone forgot to get the hi-res copy before the exhibition opened, but in actual fact, his handmade portraits of his mates and collaborators in New York date back to the Seventies, in a weird case of art imitating life, only for ‘life’ to come 35 years down the line. Intriguing.
Rummaging through old photos, Grace (Amanda Daniels) and estranged sister Niamh (Imogen Stubbs) flash back to their childhood to find out where and why their relationship foundered. Based on his life in Seventies Preston, Dermot Canavan’s touching two-hander blends sadness and disappointment with unfulfilled optimism. LK
White Cube 144-152 Bermondsey St, SE1 3TQ. Until Apr 21. FREE London Bridge whitecube.com
Trafalgar Studios Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. Until Apr 27. £15+ Charing Cross trafalgar-studios.co.uk
Terina Denny Who are the highlights at this week’s show? We have [former CBeebies presenter turned stand-up] Dan Wright, [comedy MC turned stand-up] Paul Ricketts and top Swedish comedian Fredrik Andersson with his dark, observational humour. Where was your first show and how did it go? It was after completing the London Comedy Course in Greenwich. It was a packed audience and I was a little nervous. When I got on stage the lights were so bright I couldn’t see the audience – it was my best gig ever!
Photos: Andrew Billington
What’s the funniest thing you’ve ever seen? Once I was asked by an audience member if I could get her tattoo of her boyfriend removed – he looked like a strange little puppy.
olympus has fallen
the thrill of love
FILM
THEATRE
If you thought Air Force One was gung-ho US chest-thumping, then get a load of this. The White House is overrun by terrorists, the president (Aaron Eckhart) is taken hostage, and all manner of bullet-riddled carnage then ensues as Gerard Butler’s disgraced former Secret Service agent is the only one still inside the building who can help save the Stars and Stripes. Brilliant nonsense.
Ruth Ellis (played by Faye Castelow, above) was the last woman to be hanged in the UK in 1955 – she shot her abusive partner only for one bullet to ricochet off and kill an innocent bystander. Amanda Whittington’s play, drawn from psychiatric and official reports from the time, tells her story compellingly. LK
On general release April 17
St James Theatre 21 Palace Street, SW1E 5JA. Until May 4. £15+ Victoria stjamestheatre.co.uk
Who is your favourite stand-up? Sara Pascoe. She’s a surreal comedian who always make me think and she never does the same set. What’s your favourite joke? From a 10-year-old boy: why is Pinocchio called Pinocchio? Fuck knows! Comedy Punch Broadway House (Brasa), SW6 1BY. May 1. £5+ Fulham Broadway comedypunch.co.uk
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Horror legend: Bruce Campbell made his name with the Evil Dead series
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[Caption]
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12/04/2013 13:58:09
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The dead shall rise again Evil Dead is the hotly anticipated new movie in the iconic series. Horror legend Bruce Campbell tells us about cranking up the gore Words Alasdair morton
Remaking old movies is Hollywood’s favoured pastime. But it’s a risky business, particularly when the revisited movie is a cult, fanatically adored horror film like The Evil Dead. So how do you retool it for a new audience? By getting the original star and director on board with a hotshot new filmmaker, and an Oscar-winning scriptwriter, that’s how. This was the approach favoured for the new version of Evil Dead: original star Bruce Campbell and director Sam Raimi are back as producers, Uruguayan Fede Alvarez is the man behind the lens, and Golden Baldie-winning screenwriter Diablo Cody polished the script. As Campbell explains when we catch up with him ahead of the film’s release: “Academy awards don’t hurt – and Cody allowed us middle-aged men to have a voice for younger people and to make these characters believable.” Campbell has been synonymous with the franchise since, as a 21-year old, he and friend Raimi made what was then – and still is – one of the most notorious horror debuts ever. Two films followed, and a million questions since third franchise outing, 1992’s Army Of Darkness, as to when they’d make another. “They’ll never stop asking about when you’re making another Evil Dead movie,” Campbell reckons. The time for a new entry is now, however, with this retooling favouring a sequel approach rather than merely redoing the original. “None of us wanted a remake,” Campbell says of this new, ultra-horrific addition’s birth. “Sam was busy making Hollywood movies [Oz The Great And Powerful, most recently], I’d been busy making [TV show] Burn Notice for the last seven years and that’s how decades slip away. “Then Fede Alvarez came to Sam’s attention with his short Panic Attack, a clever effects-filled story. He was the one who started to put ideas into Sam’s head, and Sam then shared them with me and [producer] Rob Tapert. We started to get interested, floating ideas about, and it all fell into place.” The ideas pitched to the group were reshaping the film with a new story, a new group of characters and recasting the central role – Campbell’s Ash 30 years ago – as a female. “There were bits we wanted to keep – the creepy cabin, the evil book, and this group of youngsters trapped all night,” he adds. “These are the hallmarks of the Evil Dead movies.” Jane Levy (TV’s Suburgatory) was cast as lead Mia, a smacked-out twentysomething who goes out to a cabin she
and her brother (Shiloh Fernandez) went to as kids to shake loose the demons that have plagued her, with the help of a couple of friends (Jessica Lucas, Elizabeth Blackmore and Lou Taylor Pucci). Only, one of their number finds a human-skinbound book amidst the animal sacrifices in a basement that would make Leatherface shit himself, decides to read aloud its occult passages (obviously never seen a horror movie) and inadvertently unleashes a monstrous abomination that puts paid to their plans for a weekend escape in the woods.
“
You need the tools to torment people
”
Times have changed since 1982. Horror moved through that decade’s slasher cycle, then onto Nineties post-modern spins like Scream and the Noughties fascination with drilling holes in kneecaps à la Eli Roth-fuelled torture porn. “Movies have certainly gotten more extreme,” Campbell somewhat surprisingly proclaims of the genre with which he ››
Demonic: the film will delight fans tntMagazine.com
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Visionary: new director Fede Alvarez co-ordinates a rather bruised and bloody Jane Levy (Mia) on set is so readily associated. “Torture porn’s part of that, and I hope it ends swiftly. It dragged horror down to where people think it should be. There is room for all kinds of horror but it’s had an impact on how extreme some gore has been.” Campbell is clearly not a fan of the indefensible, but before we think he’s gone all soft on us in his middle-age, he adds: “But The Evil Dead was always ultra-gory for its day and this new one is ultra-gory for its day too. We are making an Evil Dead movie here folks – it’s not a documentary!” So while the original is famous for boundary-pushing scenes – a tree encounter unlike that usually found on a rambling excursion for one – this new episode hardly shies away from what you’d expect from the series. “In the casting sessions we asked everyone, ‘Have you ever had this done to you? Have you ever been buried alive?’ We wanted to know if they could handle this stuff.” The ‘stuff’ they had to handle was pretty full on, even for this franchise. “They were all great,” Campbell says of his young wards who went to hell and pretty much stayed there for the duration of the film’s New Zealand shoot. “Especially Pucci, who’s pretty much the punchbag for the movie,” Campbell recalls, with either pride or malicious satisfaction at seeing someone else endure this time round. “He had more things done to him than any of the others: crowbars, nail guns, you name it. And Jessica Lucas has a great scene in the bathroom where she cuts off half her face, and Elizabeth Blackmore has a scene without one of her arms (it’ll make you look at kitchen appliances in a new light, we’ll
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“
This new Evil Dead is ultra-gory for its day
”
Alvarez, who runs a special effects company in his native Uruguay, was responsible for keeping the pedal pressed to the bloody, entrails-covered floor, keeping much of the gore ‘in camera’. CGI may be ever-flashier these days, but it’s still too easily differentiated from reality by the human eye. Our optical lenses know what’s real and what’s not. “He wanted the film to have an old-school look,” Campbell explains. “It was a good call, because to the guy who saw this movie back in ‘82, it will look better than back then, but still has an old-fashioned feel.” As you can gather, it’s not for the faint-hearted, or for those of a nervous disposition, or anyone who has an easily affected upchuck reflex. But where it makes good on Dead fans’ long-held desires for a truly demonic new movie, it hasn’t given in to the clamouring for a Campbell cameo, a role he has frequently filled in recent Raimi movies (Spider-Man; Oz). “I didn’t want to throw people out of the movie,” he says of what is understandable but surely likely to disappoint some Dead-heads out there. “We wanted the movie to stand on its own; we didn’t want people to think that we were trying to be cute or clever.” Campbell needn’t worry. ‘Cute’ is not the word you would associate with a film in which a chainsaw makes a particularly close encounter with someone’s face, for an extended, claretsplattering period of time. You have been warned. ❚ Evil Dead is out April 18 through StudioCanal. Review on P22
Photos: Getty
Got wood: the tree rape scene is back in the new Evil Dead
tell you that much). They were all pushed to the limit and we appreciate the fact that they are still all talking to us.” Director Alvarez was the one who brought up the nail gun as a weapon of choice. “You need tools to torment people and nail guns are pretty nasty if you’ve ever played around with one,” Campbell says, perhaps overestimating our familiarity with both power tools and demon-fighting paraphernalia. We haven’t played around with a nail gun, and are disinclined to do so at any point in the near future.
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12/04/2013 13:58:19
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24/01/2013 14:49 12/04/2013 12:17:30
SPARETIME
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Dragon’s Dogma: Dark Arisen
The Thermals: Desperate Ground
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The Portland three-piece get back to their punky earlier works on their sixth LP. £8.99 play.com
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Hotly anticipated fourth album from the New York art-punk stars. £9.99 play.com
Thirteenth instalment in the tactical role-playing series. £32.99 play.com
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A race against time thriller in which a terror group threatens London. £7.99 play.com
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Send your ninjas out to war in this strategy battler. £2.99 play.google.com
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The story of the New Yorkbased Federal Bureau of Narcotic’s battle against organised crime and drugs. £8.57 play.com
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Act out your Dennis the Menace fantasies and piss off your housemates with style. £2.95
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Portable and sun-powered. £19.99 iwantoneofthose.com
Pitch Perfect DVD
Anna Kendrick and Rebel Wilson star in this whipsmart musical comedy. A big screen Glee with a sharper script. £11.99 amazon.co.uk
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App of the Week Favourit App
The social sports betting network lets you gamble on sports for fun, or up the ante using real cash with their bookmaker partners. FREE favourit.com
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20/03/2012 14:51 12/04/2013 12:17:30
MOTHER’S DAY
DON’T GE T CAUGHT OUT!
DOWN UNDER
In Australia and New Zealand, Mother’s Day is less than a month away (May 12). With the handy help of our gift guide, you can put in your overseas order today (you know she’s worth it).
MOTHER’S DAY GIFT GUIDE £10 OR LESS 59
£9.
.50
00
£6.
99
£6.
£8
Teething bangles Part jewellery, part baby chew toy
Gold-speckled Blue Nun 22-carat gold flakes add class
gumigem.co.uk
Receipts tin Does what it says on the ...
drinksdirect.co.uk
99
find-me-a-gift.co.uk
aplaceforeverything.co.uk
99
£8.
Eggling flowers She can hatch her own plant
99
£4.
.50
£7.
£5
Indian Superspices Cookbook meets home remedies
Barry M’s Wow Brow Pen Give ‘em some serious shape
amazon.co.uk
Lush Honey Trap lip balm For sweet white chocolate lips lush.co.uk
barrym.com
H&M straw hat Protect mum from the sun hm.com
MOTHER’S DAY GIFT GUIDE £25 OR LESS .00
.00
£15
£12
Customised stuffed animal Record a personal voice message
White truffle oil An award-winning blend
buildabear.co.uk
.99
£19
Organic Golden Camellia Oil Good at healing damaged skin
cotswoldgold.co.uk
.99
camellia-oil.org
.99
£24
Vodka zinger Make your own infused spirits menkind.co.uk
.50
£13
£21
.95
£24 .99
£19
Special mum mug A cutesy cup for her favourite brew gallerythea.co.uk
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Ceramic pans Add some colour to her kitchen jmldirect.com
Absolut Unique Vodka in a designer bottle harveynichols.com
iGuy iPad holder Look ma, no hands! o2.co.uk
TNTMAGAZINE.COM
12/04/2013 14:34:34
MOTHER’S DAY GIFT GUIDE £50 OR LESS .99
.00
£39
£30
Retro watches Give mum a taste of the Eighties
Diva sunglasses She’ll never know they’re from Tesco
timex.co.uk
.00
£32
Brown sugar body polish For a smooth (and organic) body
tescosopticians.com
.00
£30
26 38.
organicsurge.com
.00
.50
£46
Gamila secret House of Fraser bath products, yum! houseoffraser.co.uk
.30
£29
£25
£
Topshop leather purse Adds a touch of boho style
Zoku quick pop maker For a cool summer treat
topshop.com
Pizza stone Perfect oven pizza, every time pamperedchef.co.uk
williams-sonoma.com
Heaven bee venom mask Just like a facelift in a jar heavenskincare.com
MOTHER’S DAY GIFT GUIDE £100 OR LESS .00
0
0.0
£55
£10
.00
£95
.00
£69
Darcy teapot Hot has never been so cool alisonappleton.com
.00
£75
Union Jack KIndle Send a slice of Blighty back
Leather satchel In this season’s colours
amazon.co.uk
nat-nin.pr
.00
Cashmere teddy bears For a super-soft cuddle scarletandargent.co.uk
.00
£79
£75 .00
£95
Radley watch Help her keep your Skype date watchshop.com
Egyptian robe Like a terry cloth cloud christy-towels.com
Carvela Kurt Geiger – Lorena She’ll be current in cool kicks kurtgeiger.com
Crochet smock dress Lacy attire for day or night missselfridge.com
CRITICS’ PICKS
.99
£25
Owl jug Show her that you give a hoot hannahturner.co.uk
.00
£65
Liberty mini suitcase Now she can holiday in style liberty.co.uk
.99
£13
Cupcake teapot Tea and cake, rolled into one wayfair.co.uk
.00
£15
Marmite apron She’ll either love it or hate it johnlewis.com
TNTMAGAZINE.COM
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LifestyleHEALTH CLASS OF THE WEEK
Running club Sweatshop, the sports shoe and gear retail chain, has outlets throughout the city, and each hosts weekly 5km running sessions with trained coaches. I was drawn to the club because … well, it’s free. Also because I’ve often heard that running is one of the best methods for losing weight fast. But the truth is, I’m not a fan of running. It doesn’t take long for me to feel an unpleasant burn deep inside my lungs and, moreover, it’s boring. I thought perhaps running with a group would feel different. As I entered my local Sweatshop, I grew nervous at the stream of lean, sporty men that gathered around. I knew I’d never manage to keep up with them, and I feared slowing down the group as a whole. Then I spotted the running club’s other contingent; decidedly non-sporty females with designs and anxieties similar to mine. For each run, one coach runs at the front and another at the rear. I can’t answer for the one who takes the lead, but the coach in back was gently encouraging. He spurred us along and acted as a cheerleader for those flagging behind. By the end, I was red as a beet and drenched in sweat, but I ran my very first 5km, and it felt like a tremendous achievement. DC FREE Various
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School of life Feel like your life lacks direction? TNT tries out a life coaching session in London’s great outdoors Words DAISY CARRINGTON
“Something funny happens when I take people off the path,” says Karen Liebenguth, founder of Green Space Life Coaching. “People slow down. I’ve noticed you’ve done the same.” As you’ll have gathered from the name of her business, Liebenguth is a life coach, which is kind of like a therapist, except the focus is less on analysis and introspection, and more on setting up a blueprint to achieve one’s goals. Although she is not a typical life coach. For starters, hers is a walking practice, and her ‘office’ spans London’s many public parks. “When you’re sat in one place, your mind can go on a loop – it makes it hard to see new solutions to a problem,” she explains. “When you get a change of scenery, and you go out in nature, something wonderful happens; you start to have epiphanies.” For my session, we met up in Victoria Park on what thankfully turns out to be one of the few warm days of this year. I wonder what she and her clients do during the
winter months, but she assures me that her practice continues as usual: “We just don’t stop as much.” She gives me the option to choose my path, but I let her lead me, as she clearly knows the park better than I do. For my session, I decide to focus on an issue that’s plagued me incessantly for the last year; the fact I’ve yet to complete the book I’ve always dreamed of writing. I tell her that for a while I was diligent, but lately I tend to let life get in the way. We do a bit of gentle digging into my past and ultimately come to the conclusion that by not finishing projects, I get to curry the compliment from those nearest to me about how much potential I have. Finish the product, and I risk that perceived potential being unveiled as an untruth should the book bomb. During our conversation, we never stop walking, and something about undergoing what is essentially ‘therapy on the go’ in such a (thankfully) tranquil setting makes the whole experience seem surreal, almost as if
sweatshop.co.uk
‘Therapy on the go’: walking and talking helps you to find answers
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tntMagazine.com
12/04/2013 12:32:21
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WHAT’S NEW
Glotan – Tan In A Can Let’s pretend it’s sunny out £21.99 glotan.co.uk
Thai Lime & Ginger Body Butter Smell great, get smooth £28 janjira.co.uk
Inspired: life coach Karen Liebenguth’s office is the peaceful parks of London I’m traversing a dreamscape. Perhaps that’s why, when Liebenguth asks me how I’m going to find time in my days to write, and what I’ll do to make myself feel supported and rewarded when I’m doing it, the ideas start to flow. “What will you say to yourself when you’ve written for so many hours a week?” she asks. I start off slow. “Er ... I’ll say, well done!” “And what else will you do?” “Er, give myself a treat. Like chocolate.” “Good, and what else?” The ideas keep coming. I’ll make a bar graph to chart my progress. I’ll pay myself £25 for every hour I work on it. I’ll give myself the same advice
I’ve given friends in similar predicaments: “You’re not writing in blood. Just get down the words. If it’s shit, you can change it later; no one will know, no one’s reading over your shoulder while you write.” “How do you feel?” she asks. I must admit, I feel pretty good; optimistic for the first time in months, and also pleasantly drained – I’ve just got in an hour’s exercise to boot. NEXT WEEK Single sessions are £65. A free 30-minute taster session is also available. greenspacecoaching.com
Groomer has it: TNT’s men get super-spiffy
SPF 30 Brush On Block This powder packs protection £23 johnbellcroyden.co.uk
Photos: Green Space Coaching
top treatment: The Tailor Made ‘Tailor’ rhymes with ‘sailor’ – that might be why during this quickie custom massage the spa plays a seafaring soundtrack. We don’t really know, but Lush Spa treatments are always ‘inventive’. Though short (the massage only lasts 30 minutes), the masseuse will make sure you get exactly what you’re looking for. Point to a nigglesome knot or stiff neck, and she’ll do everything in her nimble-handed power to get it sorted in no time. £40 for 30 minutes.
Bespoke: tailor your massage
123 Kings Road, SW3 4PL
lush.co.uk
Sloane Square
Eve Taylor Candles Moisturise with this candle wax – really! £12.59 eve-taylor.com
tntMagazine.com
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tntjobs.co.uk www.broadwaybandg.co.uk
JOB OF THE WEEK: Bartenders & Waiting Staff Location: Fulham Broadway Salary: Competitive
We are a high street bar specialising in great beer, classic cocktails and Southern American inspired food.
You will be professional and personable with a passion for good food, excellent service and great customer care. You will have a passion for the industry and a strong work ethic.
BROADWAY GROUP T: 07710 640922
Ciara Hipwell | 07710 640922 | ciara@broadway-house.com
PRIVATE EMPLOYER T: 07962481104 Disabled female ex-designer/retired lecturer requires team of carers to support her in own home
JOB OF THE WEEK: Live in carer Location: Brighton Salary: £550-600 per week Duties will involve full personal care, light housework, shopping, cooking, assistance going out (using a wheelchair) and looking after 3 cats. Full training provided, free accommodation, 2 week on/off shift pattern. Lucy or Laura | asherah6@gmail.com
THE PHEASANT INN T: 017687 76234 www.the-pheasant.co.uk
JOB OF THE WEEK: Couple Location: Sous Chef and GA/duty manager Salary: £18000 & £15000 (live In)
Small luxury hotel in the Lake District. Unique bar, fine dining and Bistro operation. Rural location.
Experienced sous chef (rosette standard) to work in a team of 6 – all fresh produce. Outgoing GA/duty manager – front of house, dining room and duty management.
CYCLE SURGERY
JOB OF THE WEEK: Part Time Sales Assistants & Mechanics Location: Throughout London Salary: Per hour
www.cyclesurgery.com
Matthew Wylie | 017687 76234 | wylie@the-pheasant.co.uk uk
Fast-growing chain of specialist bke shops that sells bikes, clothing and accessories.
WE are looking for enthusiastic, friendly sales associates and bike mechanics who are passionate about bikes and cycling. Ideally, you should have previous retail and customer service experience. Mechanics with a Cytech qualification preferred.
MANE CONTRACT SERVICES
JOB OF THE WEEK: CNC Turners and CNC Millers Location: Byfleet, Surrey Salary: £18.50 per hour
T: 01923 470710 www.mane.co.uk
Please send your CV to hr@cyclesurgery.com
Mane provides Technical Recruitment solutions worldwide, specialising in the Aerospace, Automotive, Construction, Engineering, Manufacturing, Oil & Gas and Rail sectors.
CNC Turners and CNC Millers for aerospace engineering company located close to byfleet train station on the line from waterloo. Programming CNC machines using mazatrol controls. 6 Month contracts on night shifts.
MANUEL MOVES
JOB OF THE WEEK: HGV (Class 2 drivers) & removal porters Location: Earlsfield Salary: Competitive rates of pay
T: 020 8947 6506 www.manuelmoves.com Family run removal company, offering a range of services including home moves and furniture deliveries across London, the home counties and Europe.
Ricki Doyle | 01923 470 710 | eng@mane.co.uk
Duties to include packing and wrapping of goods for export, loading and unloading shipping containers, plus driving to and from job locations. The ideal candidate would have previous experience working for a removal company (although this is not essential) and be proficient in packing household goods. Must be fit, well presented, speak good English and be able to work as part of a team. info@manuelmoves.com
Looking for your next job? NEW JOBS ONLINE EVERY DAY To advertise your job of the week contact Jaqui Ward | 020 3137 5950 | jaqui.ward@tntmultimedia.com
TNT_1546_034 34
JOBS 12/04/2013 14:42:41
We are hiring! London Shared provide fully furnished rooms to young professionals living and working in London. We are currently on the look-out for a lettings negotiator to come and join our office in Parsons Green, Fulham. We need you to have a full clean driver’s license, valid work permit and it helps to be dog friendly (we have office dogs). £16 – 18K basic, £25 - £35 OTE. You will also receive a laptop, company car, smart phone, Friday night drinks, free dog walks (e.g. you will walk our dogs... for free!) and a great team to work with who will show you that working in an office doesn’t need to be boring and stuffy.
info@londonshared.co.uk | 020 7610 9004
TNT_1546_035 35
12/04/2013 17:03:34
WORLDVIEW
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Dangerous: a quiche
woman attacks officer with quiche Australia
A Broken Hill woman is due to be sentenced after allegedly throwing a quiche at a police officer in Australia. Constable James Wheatley told the Local Court in New South Wales he had approached the woman to hand over an apprehended violence order when he claimed Franklin Jane Bugmy rammed him with a pram and threw the savoury pastry pie at him. “The quiche was thrown down to save my baby from tipping out of the pram,” Bugmy said, protesting innocence. She’s due to return to court in two weeks. tweets of the week
@emsykay Rip Margaret Thatcher. Iron Man is now a widower @Charlies_HRH Text from Mr Clegg: “Sad to hear about death of Margaret Thatcher. I loved her in Mamma Mia!” Not replying @IntrepidDeviant Being an Iron Lady, does that mean MT will Rust In Peace?
study reveals odd boss requests united states
Buying a rifle and being hooked up with drugs are just some of the random requests employees have reported being asked by their bosses. Some 23 per cent of workers have been asked to perform tasks that fall outside of their job descriptions, according to a survey by US site CareerBuilder. Other requests include bosses asking employees to: remove their stitches; clip a dog’s nails; be a surrogate mother; and spy on senior management. 36
TNT_1546_036 36
Life is tweet: Dannii Minogue model scouts on the beaches of Barbados while soaking up the sun. The Aussie singer posted this photo on Twitter, calling the man pictured an “aspiring model, 23”. Seems like a tough job...
However, CareerBuilder reported 66 per cent of workers in the survey gave their bosses top marks. However, “if your boss is asking you to do something outside of your scope of work responsibilities, it’s important to have open communications around what is appropriate,” said Rosemary Haefner, vice president of human resources at CareerBuilder.
baariliant new advert for beer new zealand
A flock of sheep on a Kapiti Coast farm have been taught how to spell and will appear in a Japanese beer commercial. More than 140 animals were trained to form the word
‘peace’ by Caroline Girdlestone and partner James Delaney from Hero Animals for the shoot in Moonshine Valley near Wellington. In the ad for Kirin Brewery, the sheep run past members of the popular Japanese boy band Arashi and form the word in a nearby paddock. “It was a huge buzz when it all worked, and then we got to thinking, where else could we make words out of sheep?” Girdlestone revealed. “But it was a lot of hard work getting them trained for it.” Girdlestone and Delaney, who spent about 900 hours training the sheep, both worked as head trainers on films Babe and Racing Stripes as well as several New Zealand and international adverts.
tntMagazine.com
12/04/2013 13:40:41
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Bottoms up: a cheeky wave to Google camera
THIS WEEK
IN NUMBERS 104
Age, in years, of Ralph Hoare, a gardener from Edinburgh giving tips on horticulture on Twitter after buying an iPad
Number of hours Tink the ‘dead’ hamster was buried for at Easter in Gloucester before ‘rising from his grave’
62
PRANKSTERS’ STREET ‘SEX’ GOES VIRAL
24
Time, in millions of hours, Brits spend checking feeds and posting on Facebook and Twitter every day
AUSTRALIA
A couple have shot to internet fame after being spotted on Google Street View pretending to have sex by the side of a road in South Australia. The jokers can be seen playing up for the camera with the mystery girl bent over the bonnet of a silver BMW waving in a friendly fashion, whilst the man standing behind her appears to be guzzling a beer. The image has since been blurred out by Google – but screen grabs had already been shared online. Reddit user benxology claimed to be the man in the image, explaining it was “me and the missus”. “We saw the Google car on the way to Adelaide a couple of years ago. I sped up, overtook the car then posed with a Corona in hand,” he said. “Hilarious!!”
WE KNEW IT! PENIS SIZE DOES MATTER
Photos: AAP; Twitter; Getty; Thinkstock
AUSTRALIA
Stop the press! Apparently women prefer big penises. Science says so. So do women. How well-endowed a man is relates to how attractive the opposite sex find him, according to a research by Australian National University in Canberra. When 105 women in the capital assessed 53 life-sized, 3D video images of naked men, they showed a preference for
Cost, in pounds, of a 0-60-in-three-seconds Lamborghini police in Dubai have added to their fleet to catch crims
‘I hope you’re just pleased to see me’ willies in excess of 13cm in their flaccid state. This is, in case you’re starting to panic, beyond the measurements of 95 per cent of men. Professor Michael Jennions said: “We may debate whether a man is attractive when he has kind eyes or a good sense of humour. Now at least we know the truth.”
STUDENT INVENTS GIRLFRIEND COAT JAPAN
Craving a pair of arms wrapped round you? A new ‘girlfriend coat’ could solve all your problems. Students from the University of Tsukuba in Japan developed a coat with a belt that simulates the feeling of being hugged from behind. To complete the experience, users can also don headphones, which call out phrases such as “I’m sorry! I’m late!” “The concept is everyone can get the feeling [of] having a girlfriend,” hardware engineer Hikaru Sugiura said. Really?
300,000
QUOTE OF THE WEEK Before I could say anything Russell Crowe told me to fuck off Aussie actress Rebel Wilson on approaching Nicole Kidman in a restaurant with fellow Aussie Crowe to say thanks after being awarded a Nicole Kidman Scholarship at the Australian Theatre for Young People
TNTMAGAZINE.COM
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TNT doesn’t just stop at the magazine, our sterling website is chock-full of travel features, great deals, competitions and more. Check out what’s been happening on tntmagazine.com this week...
O O T E N I L N O TRY TNT What’s on
e
lines all in one plac
eas and news head in London, travel id
WEIRD NEWS Look, we all know there’s a time and a place for serious news, in the intervals between the buckets of weird and hilarious news at TNT online
RANDY AUSSIE COUPLE CAUGHT BONING ROADSIDE
A couple of Aussie pranksters were pictured simulating sex on the side of the road by Google Street View
MY TNT – YOUR TNT
STUDENTS INVENT HUG COAT TO SIMULATE GIRLFRIEND
Some lonely boffins in Japan have developed a coat with an in-built hug mechanism that feels like cuddles
tntmagazine.com/yeti AND QUIZZES COMPETITIONS tntmagazine.com/apes
MISSED A MAG? FIND OUT WHAT COMPETITIONS YOU’VE MISSED
TNT’s competitions section is always chock-full of giveaways, including festival and gig tickets
tntmagazine.com/competitions
TAKE ON TNT’S INFAMOUSLY TRICKY WEEKLY NEWS QUIZ
You could be in with a chance of winning all sorts of TNT goodies and merchandise
Meet fellow Aussies and Kiwis, blog, enter competitions and share travel tips on our forum
my.tntmagazine.com
tntmagazine.com/quizitup
MAGAZINE.COM TNT_1546_038 38
12/04/2013 17:36:23
TNT puts the world to rights
OURVIEW
COMMENT: OLI JONES
carol.driver@tntmagazine.com
The Iron Lady: a reviled leader
Respect her funeral and respect our right to protest
Photos: Getty
The news police plan to use preemptive arrests should worry us all The fall of the Berlin wall, JFK’s assassination, 9/11, Cantona’s flying kick: to these you’ll-always-remember-where-you-were-when-you-heard events, we can now add the death of Margaret Thatcher. The wry smile that’ll break over my lips in the years to come when I think about it won’t be out of animosity for The Iron Lady, it’ll be because when I found out I was mid-shit in Berlin airport. I took off from a country whose top news story was ‘it’s cold’ and landed back in the midst of a shitstorm of headline slinging, as the papers, politicians and commentariat fought to define how history would remember Thatcher. Former Tory MP Louise Mensch led the charge for the Right: her weeklong blitzkrieg of adulation was beyond parody. However, it served to exemplify the shadeless approach that Thatcher employed in her leading style – a leading style built on division and the fostering of enemies. Let’s be clear about this: Thatcher wasn’t a feminist, she wasn’t a great leader and she didn’t want a meritocracy. She was an elitest who destroyed the unions when they needed reform, destroyed mental health services when they needed reform, and destroyed northern industry when all it needed was support. And while the attempts to revise history are unnerving, the most worrying news has been that the police will continue their abhorrent use of ‘preemptive arrests’ in the run up to Thatcher’s funeral. There’s no statute that says police have this power, it’s just something they reckon they can get away with, and the high court supports them. If police have evidence that people are conspiring to cause a public order offence, that’s a possible crime. But arresting people because they might express an opinion is genuinely scary. Protests should be allowed during her funeral, but protesters must not seek to disrupt proceedings. While they may be witnessing the burying of a reviled leader, others are burying a family member and a mother. » Agree or disagree? Should protests be allowed on the day of the funeral? letters@tntmagazine.com
WHO KNEW NUCLEAR WAR WAS SO DULL? North Korea’s baffling, almost avantgarde new foreign policy continued apace last week as all-out nuclear war edged closer on the Korean peninsula. It was all quite entertaining at first: the threats of destruction, the mocked-up video of a missile attack on the US that looked a bit like the school project of a precocious 8-year-old with a copy of After Effects. Then it all got a bit serious. The US were all like, “Hey, that’s enough North Korea.” Ban Ki Moon was all: “Chill guys, don’t anyone say something they’ll regret.” And even Russia was totally like, “Woah!”
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Then Russia were totally like, ‘Woah!’
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Then it all got a bit boring, the same old threats, the same missed deadlines. All of a sudden it felt as if we were pawns in some opaque North Korean politicking. The one thing you thought you could say about nuclear war is that the build up would be fraught and terrifying, but no, like everything else, it’s just dull and sad. TNTMAGAZINE.COM
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A world divided
Divis left) That in B Bob
In death as in life, Margaret Thatcher has split opinions WORDS CAROL DRIVER
It’s not only the country she divided. When Margaret Thatcher died aged 87 last week, a wide chasm in public opinion about Britain’s longest-serving prime minister formed across the globe. World leaders fell over themselves to pay tribute to the Iron Lady, and the list of attendees to her funeral at St Paul’s in London on Wednesday reads like a Who’s Who of the planet’s political landscape over the past 30 years. Within hours of the news of Thatcher’s death breaking on Monday, #nowthatchersdead was trending on Twitter (leading many to believe Cher the singer had died), macabre celebratory parties were taking place, sparking outrage, and Ding Dong! The Witch Is Dead was hurtling towards number one in the UK charts. One news reporter described the former Conservative leader as ‘Marmite’ – she was either considered by her critics as the devil incarnate who ruined lives with uncompromising economic reforms, or she was the woman who made Britain ‘Great’ again. For those alive during Britain’s first woman premier’s 11-year reign, no one sits on the fence. She transformed the economy, sold off council houses to their occupants, marched the country into war against Argentina over the Falklands, and branded Nelson Mandela’s African National Congress (ANC) “a typical terrorist organisation”. She also deregulated markets, pushed forwards privatisation by selling off public-owned services, neutered the power of trade unions, democratised capitalism and backed the influence of the state. Thatcher, who was ousted by her own party in 1990, built a “special relationship” with US president Ronald Reagan which helped bring the curtain down on Soviet Communism and the Cold War. She opposed closer ties with Europe, introduced the Poll Tax and presided over the closing of 150 coal mines. She also abolished the right of kids to get free milk at school, earning her the slogan, “Thatcher the milk snatcher”. And that’s a brief, by-no-means-exhaustive list. 40
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But while Brits celebrated, got angry at those celebrating, which in turn pissed off the celebrators, here’s how some of the rest of the world marked her passing.
Australia Australia’s first woman prime minister Julia Gillard said Thatcher created history with her stronger leadership. “Her service as the first female prime minister of the United Kingdom was a history-making achievement,” Gillard said. “Her strength of conviction was recognised by her closest supporters and her strongest opponents.” John Howard, Australia’s last Liberal prime minister who was leader of the opposition when the Iron Lady was in power, called Baroness Thatcher Britain’s most renowned premier since wartime leader Winston Churchill. He said her greatest legacy was her work with Reagan and the late Pope John Paul II to exert military, political and moral pressure to bring about the end of the Soviet empire. “In terms of the political framework in which the world lives, it was the biggest single event that I experienced in my lifetime,” he added. Aaron Wally Peardon told TNT on its Facebook page: “I don’t understand all this hate for MT, she was elected three times, so she must have done something right and most of the people that partied in Brixton were not old enough or even born when she was in power.”
New Zealand Prime minister John Key said he was an admirer of Thatcher. “She will be remembered as a very strong and determined leader that faced some real challenges. She stood up for what she believed in, she was fiercely determined all the way through. I was somewhat in awe of her as a person, who was such a well-recognised and well-known world leader.” Bryan Gould, who served as a Labour MP in the UK when
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In a statement, Jackson Mthembu, spokesman for the African National Congress, said the party had been on the “receiving end” of Thatcher’s policies in her “refusing to recognise the ANC as the representatives of South Africans” and her “failure to isolate apartheid after it had been described as a crime against humanity”. He added: “However, we acknowledge she was one of the strong leaders in Britain and Europe to an extent that some of her policies dominate discourse in the public service structures of the world. Long after her passing on, her impact will still be felt and her views [will remain] a subject of discussion.” Pallo Jordan, the ANC’s chief propagandist in exile during the apartheid era, told the Guardian: “I’ve just sent a letter of congratulations. I say good riddance. She was a staunch supporter of the apartheid regime. She was part of the right-wing alliance with Ronald Reagan that led to a lot of avoidable deaths.”
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Thatcher was PM, said the Iron Lady always had a higher reputation overseas than in Britain, where she remained a “divisive figure”. He added: “I don’t think she spared more than a second or two thinking about New Zealand. She was pretty preoccupied with the relationship with America, and she had big issues with Europe.” Clint Heine, founder of the Kiwis In London Facebook page, said: “Anybody celebrating the death of her ... speaks volumes about what sort of people you are. [She was a] role model that broke ground for females in politics in the UK and worldwide, a woman that stood up to bullying unions that were crippling the economy (look it up) and while she polarised opinion, she made the UK a better place to be.”
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Divisive: (clockwise from left) how UK papers marked Thatcher’s death; celebrations in Brixton; with Aussie PM Bob Hawke in Sydney in 1988
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Was Margaret Thatcher a good or bad leader? Write and tell us your views – letters@tntmagazine.com
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There’s rough terrain and there’s the 251km Marathon des Sables, a six-day ultramarathon held last week that crosses blistering hot desert and rocky ranges like this
Year’s best: Michael Clarke
pup’s big year wins top wisden honour cricket
Australian Test captain Michael Clarke has added Wisden Cricketer of the Year to his packed 2012 trophy cabinet. The year’s stand-out batsman joins Ricky Ponting (2003) and Shane Warne (2004) as the only Aussies to win the honour after scoring 1595 runs in the calendar year. His haul, including four double centuries, put him nearly 350 runs ahead of nearest rival, England captain Alastair Cook. “It began with 329 not out against India, the biggest Test innings ever played at the SCG, curtailed only by his own declaration,” said the respected almanac. “He rounded off the year with his first century in a Boxing Day Test. His score, 106, was also his calendar-year average; only Bradman, (Sir Garfield) Sobers and Ponting before him had reached New Year’s Eve on such a plane.”
broncos cop tough knock-out draw rugby league
Struggling London Broncos face a difficult task as they begin their knockout Challenge Cup campaign against Championship high-flyers Featherstone Rovers on Saturday. Tony Rea’s Broncos are at the wrong end of the Super League ladder, despite some promising moments so far this season, and they’ll face a rampant Rovers side, who won their third round clash 76-6 against Thatto Heath. Although from the second-tier, the Yorkshire side are in the top four and topped the regular season table for the past three seasons. They’ve also won the Cup three times in 1967, 1973 and 1983. Kick-off is 3pm at Twickenham Stoop. 42
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London sevens set to smash record sevens rugby
Twickenham Stadium is preparing for its biggest ever Sevens World Series finale with ticket sales already up 20 per cent and set to break last year’s record 70,000 attendance. The London Sevens on May 11 and 12 will be the final tournament in the worldwide competition, which New Zealand lead. The growth of the shortened form of the game follows its introduction as an Olympic sport for Rio 2016 and ahead of this year’s World Cup in Moscow. TNT has five double passes to give away to the London Sevens on May 11 and 12 at England’s rugby hub. Pay a visit to tntmagazine.com/competitions to enter.
BIG WEEK FOR ... The only genuine international rivalry in rugby league reignites on Friday with the annual Anzac Test. Cameron Smith’s Australian Kangaroos have dominated the fixture, with the New Zealanders winning just once in 13 editions since 1997. But the last three have been tight, with the widest margin just 10 points. The Kiwis’ side due to be named yesterday was expected to be bolstered by the return of now Roosters enforcer Sonny Bill Williams. Catch the game at 10.30am on Friday on Premier Sports.
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QUOTES OF THE WEEK I would probably do the same. Mark didn’t deserve [to win]. The bottom line is I was racing, I was faster, I passed him, I won So Sebastian Vettel’s sorry after ignoring team orders to not pass Mark Webber in Malaysia wasn’t exactly genuine
Bale force: City will have to keep a close eye on Gareth
PREVIEW SKETCHY SPURS’ CHAMPIONS DREAM TOTTENHAM V MANCHESTER CITY
SUN, 1.30PM, SKY SPORTS 1 For a team with designs on escaping the second-tier Europa League to take on the big guns in the Champions edition, Tottenham aren’t acting like it. The Gareth Bale-led north Londoners host last year’s title holders in a key matchup as they battle for a top four finish. Roberto Mancini’s lads have found a bit of form, and recently proved they are as talented as their list suggests with a win over their rivals United.
Spurs on the other hand have been sketchy, with a recent loss to Fulham among the blots on their impressive season record – although take away late winners and equalisers plucked from nowhere by superstar Bale and their place on the ladder would read quite differently. Last time they met at White Hart Lane, in August 2011, Edin Dzeko was in rude form for City, slotting four in a 5-1 thrashing. Spurs are now a much tighter unit and look promising under Andre Villas Boas, but games like this are must-win with Arsenal closing in behind them.
THE CHAT | Cooper’s still on the outer
[Messi] is the best player in the world. He came on … we were 1-0 up and they scored. A player like him, 100 per cent fit or not, will always make the difference David Beckham after his Champions League dream ended with a 1-1 draw putting Barcelona through past his PSG
Thanks so much for all the messages. I’m grand Awesomely named jockey Ryan Mania after he won the Grand National then fell and broke his back in a race the next day
TV HIGHLIGHTS
Photos: Getty
FOOTBALL Quade Cooper’s behaved himself and is in Q form for the Queensland Reds, so how was he not picked for 30-man Wallabies camp last week? Australia’s coach Robbie Deans said Cooper was given A a clean slate this season after he called the Wallabies environment “toxic” and threatened to quit rugby. He’s also returned to Super Rugby and is “improving with every game”, says his coach Ewan McKenzie. Yet when 30 top Aussies met at a camp this weekend, he wasn’t there. Cooper still has time to break into Deans’ 25-member squad, which is being named on June 1, or the five more spots he’ll fill soon after, to take on the British Lions. Maybe the coach is making a point to the prodigious rogue, or he just prefers James O’Connor at 10.
Liverpool v Chelsea Euro hopefuls in Premier League action Sun, 4pm, Sky Sports 1
RUGBY Queensland Reds v ACT Brumbies Super Rugby clash of top Aussie sides Sun, 10.40am, Sky Sports 1
FORMULA 1 Left out: Quade Cooper
Bahrain Grand Prix The big show heats up the Middle East Sun, 1pm, Sky Sports F1 (Highlights on BBC) TNTMAGAZINE.COM
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Above average Middlesex captain Chris ‘Buck’ Rogers is a star without his name in lights WORDS MICHAEL GADD
The numbers don’t lie. In any other era, Chris Rogers would in all likelihood be a Test legend by now, up there with the great top-order toilers to have donned a baggy green. Yet despite being Mr Consistent for Western Australia and Victoria in the Sheffield Shield, the 35-year-old has just one cap for the national side. If he’s overlooked again for the upcoming Ashes series, his international record at his career’s end will read: one Test, 19 runs at an average of 9.5. His teammates at Middlesex know a different story, though. Having played impressively for five previous counties, perhaps Rogers’ most significant contribution has been as the captain of Middlesex, who play their first home game of season 2013 at Lord’s this week. The side’s turn of fortune coincided with the arrival of the Sydney-born journeyman in 2011. First they won promotion to Division One. Last year, they finished third, the club’s best finish since 1995. This year, they’re considered by many to be contenders for the title. “I’m quite excited about the year,” said Rogers before last week’s season opener at Trent Bridge. “We finished off well last year and showed we’ve got a good side. It’s going to come down now to putting good performances on the board.” The left-hander would be the last to say, with his plucky, no fuss persona at the crease much the same off it, but a massive part of his young side’s success last year was thanks to him. Club coach Richard Scott called on his players last week to follow the skipper’s lead after he was the only batsman to make over 1000 runs (a feat he’s achieved six times in county cricket) and averaged over 40 runs in 2012. “Chris is a consistent performer, day in, day out, and it’s up to the rest of them to show what they can do,” Scott said. While flattered, Rogers is sure his back-up is on the way. “There are a lot of guys developing their game here, and are quite inexperienced,” he tells TNT. “But they’ve all got another year under their belt and if a few can have a big season, and with our pace attack [which includes Tim 44
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Murtagh, Toby Roland-Jones, Corey Collymore, Gareth Berg and Steven Finn when he’s not with England], we can do well.” After 15 years in the top domestic leagues in Australia and England, Rogers has an impressive average a whisker from 50. Last week, with 50 in the first innings against Nottingham, he passed the 19,000-run mark. Remarkably, his numbers on Aussie pitches and in England’s County Championship are much the same. “It’s tough to compare, both have their own challenges,” he says of the ever-present comparison of the two. “The
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I’m very privileged to live my lifestyle
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wickets can be difficult in their own right and they’re always hard cricket. The older guys say Sheffield Shield is harder, but my performances are about the same in both, so it might be on a par now.” A gun for hire in both countries, the guy nicknamed ‘Buck’ will of course not label one better than the other. But his form on English soil is impossible for Australia’s selectors to ignore, especially with the national team’s top order at its lowest ebb for decades (Michael Clarke excepted). The opening two matches of the county season couldn’t be a better challenge for Rogers to confirm his worthiness. Trent Bridge will host the opening Test of this year’s Ashes on July 10. This Wednesday (April 17) Rogers takes on Derbyshire at Lord’s, the home of cricket and where the second Test is to be played on July 18. Two weeks, two iconic grounds. “I know I’m very privileged to live my lifestyle,” Rogers admits. “My two home grounds are the Melbourne Cricket
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Clockwise: Rogers celebrates another milestone for Victoria; playing straight last week; and hitting out for Middlesex
Photos: Getty
Ground and Lord’s … two of the best places to play in the world, whoever you’re playing for.” While there may be a feeling of injustice that he could retire as a one-Test wonder, Rogers just goes about his business. When he played against India in 2008, he replaced an injured Matthew Hayden. Rogers gave selectors no choice but to give him a shot when Hayden was ruled out, having scored 1202 Pura Cup runs at 70.71 the season before. But two low scores in the Aussie loss, and he was out. Hayden was fit for the next Test and got 103. If there’s a sense of unfinished business, he doesn’t let on. If the phone rings to dust off the green cap he barely wore in, he’d “be honoured”, but if not… “There’s always the thing there that I would have liked to play more Test cricket, but I don’t feel sorry for myself,” he says. “I get to do what lots of people would love to do and I have a huge amount to look forward to this year.” One reason Rogers is so chipper may be that he escaped the England pre-season. He tells us “from all reports it was a good one” in the knowledge that while he was playing for the Bushrangers Down Under, his teammates were training in gloves and beanies. He arrived a week before last week’s season opener against Nottingham (which featured the man he must depose for an Ashes spot, Ed Cowan). When they played a warm-up match at Northampton, it snowed. Using a captain’s prerogative to avoid such an absurd situation, he didn’t field. “It was a friendly, so I didn’t have to,” he laughs. “And I wasn’t too keen to be honest. Batting was as cold as I’ve ever been on a cricket field. Having frozen fingers, even with gloves on – that was another experience to the list.” Could the next one be a county title or a call to arms from his country? That he’ll be ready is the only guarantee. County Championship: Middlesex v Derbyshire, April 17-20. Tickets are £16 for day one to three; £5 for day four. Lord’s, NW8 8QN lords.org St John’s Wood
Super signing: Ricky Ponting
countdown to punter Ricky will inspire surrey When Ricky Ponting arrives to take over the captaincy of Surrey while Graeme Smith is on duty for South Africa, The Oval-based side get more than just a world class batsman, says compatriot Chris Rogers. Former Aussie skipper Ponting will be at London’s Oval, the scene of the fifth Ashes Test from August 21, as a wildcard signing to replace the Proteas leader in all forms of the game. Middlesex captain Rogers said the Surrey team will be “lucky to play with” the man who retired from international cricket and proceeded to win the Sheffield Shield player of the year prize. Rogers played Ponting’s Tasmania in the last round of the Shield and witnessed him score a second century in a row: “You could just see how inspired the guys were to be playing with him. What a player and he’s naturally going to improve that group on and off the field.”
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SPORTVIEW
TNT puts the world to rights
COMMENT: MICHAEL GADD michael.gadd@tntmagazine.com
Not a goal: German keeper Manuel Neuer’s helpless as Frank Lampard’s World Cup cracker for England beats him, goes over the line – and play continues
Technology to decide on goals: where does it end?
Gadgets making decisions means we no longer play the same game
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What a story! First time head coach’s first season team in the heartland of a code-war makes their first grand final. You can’t write a story like the Western Sydney Wanderers, who beat the Brisbane Road 2-0 on Friday to go through to this week’s A-League grand final. They’d already won their way to the Asian Champions League finishing on top of the table, but anyone who knows Australian sport knows that for some bizarre reason the last few weeks matter heaps more than the previous 20-odd. Tony Popovic’s lads may have been assembled by the league to bring a derby
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They’re heroes of Oz football’s heartland
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to Australia’s biggest city and represent what is probably football’s heartland, but they’re the working class heroes of the league. Their marquee isn’t an Italian international or former Premier League star, but Shinji Ono, a quietly spoken midfielder who was more or less unwanted in Japan – so of course he scored the clincher.
Photo: Getty
When City and United or Gunners and Spurs are nil-nil with a minute to go next season, in a match that decides the Premiership or a Champions League spot, I hope one of them scores a goal but it isn’t allowed due to some sort of stuff-up from the fancy pants goal line technology. I wish no ill to Hawk-Eye, the company entrusted with the close line calls in the Premier League next year. Nor am I opposed to the right decision being made when it comes to goals. What I am against is “the world game” losing the thing that sets it apart from every other professional code in the world – that a barefoot kid in an outer suburb of Timbuktu or a toffee-nosed twat from Chelsea can play the exact same game in the exact same way. Football requires a ball, feet are helpful and somewhere that can form a space between two goals. With the exception of retrospective suspensions if an incident isn’t dealt with on the field, what happens on a Premier League field this year is basically what happens between kids in Brazil or over-35s with a barbie on the sideline in Sydney. A bloke with a whistle does his best to keep things fair (his decisions will include ones that are right, wrong and debatable) and the team to score more goals wins. The incidents of the whole of the ball going slightly over the whole of the line and not being given are slim given the millions of games played by the hundreds of millions of people each year. Sure, England were screwed in the World Cup but who complained at the Euros? If we use technology to decide on the goal line, what about the six challenges in the air from a corner (any one could have been a foul) or the 6.01 seconds the keeper may have spent with the ball before knocking it to the striker who may or may not have been in his own half when the ball was played? I like the romantic notion that my nieces can play the same game as Lionel Messi, that you make your own luck, and sport isn’t always fair but we can sort it out at the pub afterwards. And it’s not like Hawk-Eye doesn’t have a margin for error anyway.
WESTERN SYDNEY’S FAIRYTALE FINAL
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Commemorate with Elk Bar, Fulham Thursday, April 25 12noon till Late EVENT DEATILS Two Up Tournament AFL Screening Live Music DJ Entertainment Anzac biscuits and BBQ food Drink specials Prize Giveaways FREE VB ON ARRIVAL WHEN YOU PRE-REGISTER AT
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WETTER THE BETTER A costumed keeper throws water on an elephant in Bangkok’s Dusit Zoo to celebrate Songkran, the Thai New Year
DEEP SCOTTISH LOVE WE DON’T NEED TO SAY ANYTHING. OUR CUSTOMERS SPEAK FOR US
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Drinko de Mayo: a battle reenacter taking a cheeky celebratory swig
HELL IS OTHER PEOPLE... When you’re on holiday, that is. If there’s one way to truly test friendship, it’s to take an extended trip with your buddies, preferably a long, low-budget one. After a few days of sharing rooms, sinks, meals, hangovers and, well, every waking minute, it would be an easygoing bunch who didn’t start driving each other round the bend.
According to a survey by carhiremarket.com, the top five habits that piss off fellow travellers are disorganisation, fussy eating, control freakery, listening to loud music and money scrounging. Personally, I can’t stand when I’m travelling with people who spend hours fussing about putting makeup on before we can go out (you know who you are!) or freaking out about running behind schedule. What schedule? We’re on holiday! The know-it-alls are pretty bad too – you know, the ones that chip in to correct tour guides, or can’t pass a crumbly old building without giving you its entire yawnsome history. Worst of all are the people who refuse to be impressed by anything, though. One guy I met had taken a year off to travel the world with his girlfriend. They had been through South America, Europe and Asia, and China. “How was it?” I asked enviously. “Pretty shit so far really, waste of money.“ “Really? Even Shanghai? Even Madrid? Even Machu Picchu?” I was baffled. “Meh,” he said. Now there’s a man who should never be allowed to set foot on a plane again. I bet his long-suffering girlfriend would have killed to be travelling with any money-scrounging, disorganised fussy eater rather than him. What are your pet travel buddy hates? Write
Affectionately known as “drinko-de-mayo” by sombrero-wearing, maraca-shaking celebrators, this traditional Mexican holiday is the 5 country’s biggest annual celebration. Following on the success of last year’s 150th anniversary, this year’s festival is sure to be bigger and brighter, with plenty of beer and tacos for all. MAY
WHY: The festival takes place each year to commemorate the 1862 Battle of Puebla when a small Mexican army defeated the invading French colonial army. The parades feature traditional dancers and local military regiments who celebrate Mexico’s heritage, and plenty of battle reenactments are held.
MULLET TOSS US
No, it’s not a free-for-all where Eighties wigs are 25-28 flung about, but it is equally weird. Slippery mullet fish are hurled from Alabama across the state line to Florida. Each fish sold raises money for local charities, so there is a purpose. The main event, though, is getting sloshed enough to think throwing a fish across a beach is a good time. APRIL
florabama.com
SNAKE FESTIVAL Italy
This procession honours St Domenic, with a statue 2 that is carried through Cocull, covered with four different types of fangless snakes. MAY
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DO IT BECAUSE: Just like everyone’s Irish on St Paddy’s Day and German during Oktoberfest, everyone is Mexican on Cinco de Mayo. So join in the fun by munching on tacos from the street stalls, salsa dancing and, of course, slamming tequila shots. visitmexico.com
AEROWAVES
Switzerland
This three-day festival brings together loads 3-5 of up-and-coming dancers and choreographers from across the world to showcase their work in one place. Expect contemporary and classical performances. MAY
aerowaves-springforward.org
GOLDEN WEEK
Japan
Japan’s Golden Week is its busiest time for tourism, as 29-6 four national holidays are celebrated within the 10-day stretch. While prices will rise and sightseeing spots get busy over the 10 days, the atmosphere will be relaxed and celebratory across the whole country. APR-MAY
jnto.go.jp
Photo: Getty
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CINCO DE MAYO Mexico
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Wild waters Brit Will Millard has just set off on a wild solo rafting jaunt down a remote West African river after receiving a £5000 “Journey of a Lifetime” grant from the Royal Geographical Society. Millard, a geographer, will raft the Mano River, where Sierra Leone meets Liberia – a region which until recently was in the grip of a brutal civil war. His expedition is expected to take six weeks. Ahead of his trip, he said: “I’ll be forced into the jungle to cut paths, there will be bad weather, potentially dangerous wildlife and many exhausting days of paddling, but this near silent method will offer an intimate and discreet insight into a rarely seen world.”
Photos: Getty
india stabbing
Disputed islands
A British backpacker was stabbed around 40 times on a houseboat near Kashmir’s capital Srinagar last week. Sarah Groves, 24, had been staying with her boyfriend Saeed Ahmed Shoda, 25, whom she met in the Indian resort of Goa earlier in the year. Prime suspect Richard de Wit, 43, a Dutch tourist, has reportedly admitted the crime and told Mr Shoda: “I killed her – that’s it. The devil took over my body.” Groves’ brother Tom has said there are conflicting witness accounts of what had happened on the houseboat, and wants government support in his efforts to find out the truth.
The Paracel islands in the South China Sea have long been the focus of a territorial dispute between Vietnam, Taiwan and China – as recently as last month Hanoi accused a Chinese vessel of firing on one of its fishing boats which had sailed in nearby waters. Now in a move likely to infuriate its neighbours, China has opened up the Paracel islands to tourists ahead of the national May Day holiday. One cruise company has already said it’s ready to take 2000 passengers to visit the islands, which are rich with coral reefs, marine life and pristine tropical beaches.
More turbulence Anxious flier? Look away now – climate change could result in flights getting much bumpier in the future. Scientists from East Anglia and Reading universities have analysed the atmospheric jet stream over the North Atlantic and are predicting that climate change will increase the chance of air turbulence on flights by 40 to 170 per cent. The more CO2 there is in the air, the rougher the flights over this region will be. Want more good news? The increased risks, route detours and repairs to damage caused by bumps will probably increase airfares, too.
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[Caption] Doomed: explore the depths of Oxford Castle
Hang out: a woman awaits her final fate in Nottingham
Horrid histories England
Clockwise: Galleries of Justice Museum; witch way on the Lancashire Trail; Derby Castle
Ghostly: a themed walk in Derby; (right) Oxford Castle 52
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England’s dark side
UKTRIP
Horrible hangings, haunted houses and headless horses – here’s where you can go for the most fearsome frights in the country EDITED BY HELEN ELFER
This month marks the 125th anniversary of the notorious Jack the Ripper murders in east London in 1888. The identity of one of England’s most notorious serial killers has always remained a mystery, but horrifying as his slayings were, he’s just one in a long tradition of evil characters in England’s often bloody history. VisitEngland shares with TNT some of the more gruesome parts of the country’s past and reveals its most haunted hotspots. The Pendle Witches, Lancashire More than 400 years ago, in August 1612, 10 people were found guilty of witchcraft at Lancaster Castle and executed on the moors. Were the Pendle Witches malevolent people possessed by supernatural powers, or innocent victims of a time obsessed with the pursuit and punishment of witchcraft? Intrigued visitors can walk the Lancashire witches trail, which starts in the shadow of Pendle Hill and follows the route the witches took through the Ribble Valley to Lancaster Castle where they stood trial. Once at the castle, visitors can take a guided tour to see the dungeons where they were imprisoned, and the courtroom in which their cases were heard. lancastercastle.com
Photos: Visit England, Visit Derby, Experience Nottinghamshire, Getty
A hair-pulling monk, Oxford Oxford Castle has a history of murder, witchcraft, imprisonment and execution, and is reported to be one of the most haunted locations in the country. The castle is said to be stalked by a number of ghosts, including a 12thcentury monk who pulls the hair of visitors to the crypt, and a man who hanged himself at the castle in 1761 and can now occasionally be seen in Debtor’s Tower wearing an expensive waistcoat, cape and tricorn hat. Visitors can explore the castle’s many frightening areas including the well chamber, prison cells and the 900-year-old crypt beneath the building. Or book a terrifying ghost tour and take part in vigils and séances in the dead of night. oxfordcastleunlocked.co.uk Haunted city, Derby A city famous for England’s final hanging, drawing and quartering, and the venue for the very last pressing to death
in the country (eek), a trip to Derby could haunt you for a lifetime. The city lays claim to some terrible tales: the spirit of executioner John Crossland, a criminal who earned a pardon for carrying out the death sentence on his own father and brother, roams restlessly around Derby Cathedral; poor Alice Wheeldon, accused of plotting to murder prime minister David Lloyd, is said to haunt the Guildhall; and victims of the Black Death were buried alive at St Peter’s Churchyard in the 14th century. You can join a guided ghost walk of the city with Most Haunted’s Richard Felix, or hold an overnight vigil in Derby Gaol, which dates back to the 18th century. derbycathedral.org Ghostly Galleries of Justice, Nottingham Nottingham’s Galleries of Justice Museum tells some of the sinister stories behind the city’s own outlaws, which are brought to life in the very building where they were judged, imprisoned and executed. The setting for this historic visitor attraction is Nottingham’s old courthouse and jail, voted ‘the most haunted building in the UK’ by paranormal investigators Fright Nights (frightnights.co.uk). Take a ghost tour to hear tales of the Shire Hall’s dark past and be led around the haunted corridors, cells and dungeons. galleriesofjustice.org.uk Anne Boleyn’s headless horses, Norfolk Blickling Hall, a 16th-century estate near Aylsham in north Norfolk, is a treasure trove of romantic buildings, beautiful gardens and landscaped park. However, it is believed to be haunted by the ghost of Anne Boleyn who appears every year on May 19, the anniversary of her execution. The short-lived queen consort’s ghost is said to draw up to the door of the stately home in a carriage pulled by headless horses and driven by a decapitated coachman. The house, now a National Trust property open to Bookish break: visitors, was built on the Take a tour of Jane site on which her manor Austen’s Bath home once stood. nationaltrust.org.uk
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A seven-night stay in Orlando costs £599pp with lowcostholidays.com
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A seven-night break with easyJet Holidays. Includes five-star, B&B accommodation at the Agua Hotels Riverside Resort & Spa. Departs from London Gatwick on April 24.
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Spain A nine-day tour costs £449pp (save 25 per cent) with Travel Talk (0208 0998852; traveltalktours.com). Includes three- and four-star accommodation, some meals, tours and visits to Madrid, Barcelona and more. Excludes flights and local payment. Book by April 30. Departs June 15. Morocco An eight-day Mount Toubkal trek costs £297pp with The Adventure Company (0845 287 1198; adventurecompany.co.uk). Includes hotel, gites and camping accommodation, guides and most meals. Excludes flights. Book by April 30. Departs on May 10. Croatia An eight-day cruising holiday costs £480pp (save £319) with STA Travel (0800 9880390; statravel.co.uk). Includes twin-cabin accommodation on a small yacht and visits to Dubrovnik and Korcula. Departs from Split on May 4, 11, 18 and June 8.
> £500 Orlando A seven-night stay costs from £599pp with lowcostholidays.com (0800 111 6271). Includes four-star, room-only accommodation at the Holiday Inn Resort Lake Buena Vista. Prices based on two people sharing. Departs from London Gatwick on June 8. india A 14-day tour of southern India costs £600pp (save 20 per cent) with G Adventures (0844 272 2040; gadventures.co.uk). Includes wildlife spotting, temple tour and tea plantations. Departs Kochi on May 19. Egypt and JOrdan A 16-day tour is £539 (save 40 per cent) with Travel Talk (0208 0998852; traveltalktours.com). Includes fourand five-star accommodation, felucca cruise, some meals and visits to Cairo, Giza, Pyramids, Wadi Rum, Petra and more. Excludes flights and local payment. Departs May 4 and 18. Book by April 30.
DAILY TRAVEL DEALS Go to tntmagazine.com/travel/latedeals where new travel deals are updated daily. There are more than 30 deals live at any time. Also sign up for TNT’s weekly travel newsletter, which will be emailed to you every Wednesday with the most up-to-date deals and guides to over 170 destinations. Sign up at tntmagazine.com/travelemail
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Croatia An eight-day cruising holiday costs £220pp (save 50 per cent) with STA Travel (0800 988 0390; statravel.co.uk). Includes twin-cabin, half-board accommodation on board a vintage ship and tours of Split and Dubrovnik. Prices based on cabin sharing. Excludes flights. Departs from Split on May 18, 25 and June 1. Budapest A two-night stay in Budapest costs from £111pp with lowcostholidays.com (0800 111 6271). Includes direct return flights and four-star, B&B accommodation at the centrally located Royal Park Boutique hotel. Prices are based on two adults sharing. Departs from London Stansted on April 23. Croatia and greece A sevenday tour is £179pp (save 40 per cent) with Travel Talk (0208 099 8852; traveltalktours.com). Includes three- and four-star accommodation, some meals, tours, visits to Dubrovnik, Corfu and more. Excludes flights and local payment. Departs July 14. Book by April 30. Marbella A seven-night stay costs £181pp with easyJet Holidays (easyJet.com/holidays; 0843 104 1000). Includes direct return flights and four-star, all-inclusive accommodation at the Las Chapas Palacio del Sol. Prices based on two adults sharing. Departs from London Luton on May 7.
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PATRICIA MONTENEGRO Talks travel photography
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FLOATING ISLAND, PUNO, PERU Sabryna Pitch, from England
MARKET GIRL, ZANZIBAR, TANZANIA Marc Andrews, from Australia
WHY IT WORKS Sabryna took this wonderfully colourful picture as she departed a reed island in Puno for the mainland. “The island is home to three different families and we got to spend the afternoon seeing how they live,” Sabryna tells us. “I took this photo as I was on a dragon boat crossing the river and the children and parents came to wave us off. The clothes they are wearing are traditional Peruvian garments.” This ‘last look back’ shot captures the spirit of the locals and a lovely moment in time.
WHY IT WORKS This image garners its power from juxtaposition. “It was taken, rather surreptitiously, at a local market on the island of Zanzibar,” Marc says. “I loved the contrast of the local man, allowed to wear a brightly coloured T-shirt, with the woman next to him fully covered in traditional Islamic garb, yet still clinging to her designer handbag. Perhaps it can be read as a quiet display of female resistance in a regressive, if not oppressive, misogynist society.”
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TOP FIVE
1
greek islands
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Crete
It’s been a long, tumultuous and, uh, possibly one-sided love affair between Brits and the Greek islands. In fact, even as early as 1878, comic poet Edward Lear complained that Paleokastritsa in Corfu had been overrun by badly behaved English tourists. And over two centuries later they’re still returning in droves, and still every bit as unable to judge when they’ve had too much sun or too many glasses of retsina. The Greek islands or islets, on the other hand, are just as alluring as they ever were. And there’s no better time to visit one of the 6000 of them than now, when you can provide a boost to the local economy and reap the benefits of reduced prices (cheap wine, anyone?). While some spots are admittedly completely swamped with holidaymaking families, there are just as many secluded beaches, party island getaways and knock-your-socks-off views to keep anyone happy. One of the most popular islands is Crete, which is Greece’s largest. It has its own distinctive culture, history and 56 00
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cuisine (snails in tomato sauce sound good to you?), so much so that at times it seems like a separate country. Visitors can spend their vacations admiring the remnants of ancient civilisations, such as the Minoan ruin complex Knossos, exploring gorges that spill out to the sea and hiking up whitewashed mountains. Of course no Greek island holiday would be complete without a little lazing on a pristine, sun-soaked beach, and the southern coast is the best place for this, with its clean sands and isolated coves, along with smaller and slower-paced villages. Meanwhile, over on the north side, is where the nightlife gets more raucous. Malia is still the place to go for the biggest selection of tavernas, bars, nightclubs, lounges and discos – here’s where the serious drinking and partying is done. It may not be classy, but you will certainly meet a lot of people having a good time. But it’s safe to say Edward Lear probably wouldn’t have been one of them. visitgreece.gr
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mykonos
Blissed-out wanderers on the Sixties hippy trail put Mykonos on the map as a hedonistic hotspot for free love. Today a few dogged old free spirits try and keep the vibe alive by going about their business in the nude on Paradise Beach. For the most part, everyone else opts for coatings of Factor Zero sun oil and teeny swimsuits instead. By night there’s a decent party scene with plenty of fashionable bars and clubs open late. mykonos-web.com
Photos: Thinkstock; Getty
4
Corfu
This Ioanian paradise inspired both Shakespeare (most agree it’s the setting for The Tempest) and Homer (it appears in The Odyssey as ‘Scheria’). Check out the pretty, Venetianstyle old quarters of the east coast capital, Corfu Town, which has been designated a Unesco World Heritage Site. Or if what you really want is a few beers, a lot of vodka jelly shots and a night spent in a sweaty blur of drinking and dancing, head to the southern town of Kávos. allcorfu.com
3
samos
Convenient comfort
Mountain villages, ancient sites, tropical beaches and sweet local wines. What more could you want from an idyllic island getaway? It’s no surprise that one of Greece’s most scenic stops was supposed to be fit for the gods – Samos was apparently the birthplace of Zeus’s wife Hera. If you’re craving heavenly peace and quiet, and sensational views, take a long walk along the curving coastline and over the island’s hills. travel-to-samos.com
5
santorini
The locals who believe their island is the site of the lost Atlantis might not be too far off. Stunning Santorini is perched on the edge of an extinct volcano, whose massive eruption 4000 years ago created a deep, sea-flooded caldera. Whitewashed villages resting on multicoloured cliffs now line the coast and tourists flock in each night to watch some of the world’s most famous sunsets over a glass of wine. In our book, this is definitely Greece’s most romantic island. santorini.net
JACKSON COURT HOTEL overview You’d do well to find a better location to crash in Dublin than this joint in the Village Quarter across from St Stephen’s Green, which is an easy walk to the Grafton Street shopping precinct and pub hub Temple Bar. The Luas Tram line (light rail) is also on the same road, so all of this cracking city is within striking distance. The reason you can get a room so cheap in this quaint Georgian building could be seen as a positive or a negative – downstairs is notorious nightclub Copper Face Jacks, a loud and debauched late-night boozefest (the hotel makes no secret of it and offers free ear plugs). No problem if you’re out on the town anyway. Wow factor Location, a proper full Irish brekkie in the dining room and guests get to skip the queue for Copper Face Jacks. Bonus? rooms Best efforts have been made to sound-proof the rooms, which have all you’d need, including king-sized beds and cable TV. bill please Double rooms start from £34pn (Sat from £80pn).
29/30 Harcourt Street, Saint Stephen’s Green, Dublin, D2 jackson-court.ie
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THE INSIDER:
Glacial: visit Lake Bled in Julian Alps, Slovenia
SOUTH AMERICA KATE ARCHER Travel Consultant Geckos Adventures
YOU ASKED FOR IT... LAURA LINDSAY FROM LONELY PLANET
Q My partner and I are off to Slovenia for the May bank holiday. We plan to hire a car for three days and I wondered what the must-see attractions of the country are, given we are only there for a short time? Jane Little, via email A Three days isn’t long but as Slovenia is a
READERS’ TIPS RUNNING OF THE BULLS DEAD MAN’S CORNER There’s a place called Dead Man’s Corner on the bull run route – if you’re a first-time runner, start there (not right at the beginning) as it’s much safer. Don Jupp, via email TRAIN UP I saw people last year running with the bulls that obviously weren’t fit enough to cope. You need to be fast! Hit the gym before you leave! Sally Simmons, via email 58
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relatively compact country you will be able to fit in a good selection of its highlights in this time. The capital Ljubljana is where most travellers will arrive, and is an attractive city perched on the banks of the Ljubljanica River. Get your bearings by taking a stroll along the riverbank and people-watch from one of the city’s riverside hotspots, such as the popular coffeehouse and cocktail bar Café Macek (sobe-macek.si). Stop at the open-air market to sample some of
Slovenia’s gourmet delights and then hike up to the castle, on the aptly named Castle Hill, which towers over the city. On your second day drive 40 minutes northwest to Lake Bled, spending the morning admiring the serene waters beneath the Julian Alps before continuing north to the Triglav National Park, home to Slovenia’s highest mountain Mount Triglav. Begin your third day with an adrenalinefuelled morning of rafting on the Soca River. It’s just a one-hour drive from Bohinj (near Mount Triglav) to Bovec, the starting point for rafting trips. Trips go for between one or three hours and are between £30-£40. From here drive two hours south to the mythical-looking Predjama Castle, which is built into a cliff face. Nearby is also the stalagmite- and stalactite-filled caves at Postojna.
What are the top spots for backpackers this year? Galapagos islands off the coast of Ecuador is really popular. Everyone wants to see the boobies ... the red and blue footed ones, though! What’s your personal favourite place in the region? I really loved visiting the salt flats in Bolivia. Unbelievable landscape. What are your top tips on making the most of South America? Definitely learning a bit of Spanish before you go! A recommendation for somewhere we won’t find in the guidebooks? Visit the San Pedro Prison in La Paz, Bolivia – very interesting. geckosadventures.com
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Pulling power: Corsica’s draws include lush forest biking roads and a rich history thanks to its most famous son, Napoleon (below) [Caption]
Corsica France
CORSICA Piana AJACCIO
GETTING THERE From late April, easyJet is offering return fares from London Gatwick to Corsica from £105pp (Sundays only). easyjet.com Scenic: the Calanques de Piana; and (above) Corsica’s coastline 60
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Tour de Corsica We explore where cycling’s most famous race, the Tour de France, starts this summer on the rugged, sunny French island of Corsica Words Tamara Thiessen
With its cliff-hanging coastal bends, lush forest roads and small rural paths linking village to village, Corsica, a French island that sits above Sardinia off the coast of Italy, has a reputation for being one of the world’s most heart-inmouth beautiful places to cycle. However, it’s also up there with the toughest. This is one of the main reasons why in June this year, the centenary edition of the Tour de France will kick off here. So when the route that Bradley Wiggins and co. will be taking was revealed a few months ago, bikers familiar with the terrain began drooling in anticipation. I was among them having already seen these sharp drops and lung-punishing hills first-hand. A few years ago, I made my way up the convoluted, crinkle-cut west coast by bus, from Ajaccio to the famous Unesco World Heritage Sites around the Gulf of Porto. Now I’m returning to tackle the same journey by bike. It’s to take a full week and I’ve got a feeling it’s going to be one hell of a ride. I’m enjoying my last moment of relaxation before I begin my journey, soaking up the sunshine as I breakfast on pain au chocolat and adrenaline-firing espresso near the market of Ajaccio in Corsica. I’m seated alongside a colossal statue of the Emperor Napolean in full Roman garb – the so-called “petit Corse” and “avenger of Corsica” was born here, and he obviously still stirs quite the passion in the hearts of the locals. “Vive Napolean!” a woman calls out to me from a nearby bus stop. Indeed. Looking up at the Corsican hero, I realise I’m going to have to try and absorb at least a little of his steely determination if I’m to complete the challenge I’m here for, and decide to get going. The first stretch of my journey gives me a thigh-burning taste of just how tough the ride could get, as I cover the 65km from Ajaccio to Piana. At times I’m teetering by steep drops over the Mediterranean, with no barrier whatsoever between me and the deep blue sea. But my reward comes near sunset as I peddle my way to the Unesco-listed Calanques de Piana. Sandwiching the narrow coastal road, these 300m-high red granite cliffs have been sculptured by the elements into a series of incredible shapes and forms: beautiful, bizarre and grotesque, human, animal and monster-like, they are stacked along the coast over the silvery-blue expanse of the Gulf of Porto. Right now they are bathed in pinky orange light, casting their tooth-edged shadows over the water.
The next day I’m excited to be tracing a stretch of the official Tour de France route, as I start my descent from Piana towards the Gulf. As I cycle, I keep my eyes fixed on the picture-perfect blue sea ahead, speckled with white boat masts, and check out the quadrangular stone Genoese watchtower on Sanguinaires island, built in the 16th century so islanders could keep look-out for pirates. I take a turn
“
I teeter by steep drops over the deep blue sea
”
inland, and a little while later arrive in the village of Ota, where large stone-walled houses and a crumbling church tower are perched among the mountains. The only sign of life is coming from the bar of Chez Fèlix, where a small lively crowd of men are drinking, and ››
On course: the scene for cycling’s biggest show tntMagazine.com
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tucking into huge mounds of paella. At the neighbouring walker’s lodge (or gîte d’etape) it’s blissfully quiet – here I soon sink into a well-earned sleep. Over the next few days I slug my way back south, through the Regional Natural Park of Corsica, which accounts for almost 40 per cent of the island. The smell of eucalyptus plants in the warm breeze reminds me of my home in Australia and perks me up as I peddle on, along with the perfumes and bright colours of the chestnut, pine and myrtle trees, and the dense carpet of bottle-green maquis shrubland, which dominates much of the island’s landscape. Getting to the final part of my route, I again find myself inadvertently prepping for the second stage of the Tour de France. On June 30, cycling’s most famous racers will also swoop down the final 154km from Bastia to Ajaccio – although unlike me, they probably won’t have to worry about the risk of cows wandering onto the road while they’re flying down jaw-dropping slopes. In all, I’ve sweated out 350km on my circuit from Ajaccio and the spring weather made for perfect riding conditions. I hope the pros enjoy it as much as me when they hit the roads this summer – I'll certainly be watching with envy. ❚
Pirate-free: Sanguinaires island’s watchtower
next week Luxembourg: Tough trekking in the hills of the Ardennes
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MIDRANGE
LUXURY
eat
In the village of Ota, 5km from the coast around Piana and Porto, Chez Félix is an institution for locals and visitors looking for rustic Corsican specialties. A la carte dishes from £12 to £15. (Capo Sottano, Ota, tel. +334 9526 1292)
A Nepita is a small restaurant with a daily-changing menu (above), based on local market produce. There are just a couple of main dishes to choose between. Threecourse set menu from £23. (4 Rue San Lazaro, Ajaccio, tel. +334 9526 7568)
On the marina of Porto, between mountain and sea, Restaurant Le Sud (above) is a long-established eatery specialising in seafood and Mediterranean mains. A la carte dishes from £20. There is also a takeout ‘sandwicherie’. restaurant-le-sud.com
drink
On the terrace of Gîte Chez Marie (above) in Ota, resting walkers and cyclists can enjoy panoramic views over the valley and mountains while they sink an early evening aperitif or two. From £2 each. gite-chez-marie.com
Toast to the emblematic French emperor himself when you have a drink in Grand Café Napoleon, a Corsican café in Ajaccio that’s decked out in 1870s ‘Second Empire’ style. A glass of wine is about £3. grandcafenapoleon.com
Shade yourself under a parasol as you get stuck into a little afternoon drinking at the outdoor lounge of Piana’s Le Café de la Plage (left). The soft chairs look out onto the beach. Bottles of wine from £18. lecafedelaplage.com
sleep
A simple walker’s lodge, Gîte d’étape Chez Felix has a homesweet-home vibe. This popular crashpad for those on a budget offers a bed and food at low prices, as well as kitchen facilities. Dorm beds cost from £15pn. (Capo Sottano, Ota, tel. +334 9526 1292)
Hotel Dominique Colonna (left) is a colour-splashed, riverside abode in the Restonica Valley near Corte. The hotel has picturesque garden and river-facing patio rooms and does an outstanding breakfast. Double rooms cost from £90pn. dominique-colonna.com
With sensational views over the Calanches de Piana and Bay of Scandola, Hotel Capo Rosso also has a mountain-framed swimming pool and balconied rooms. Doubles cost from £150pn. caporosso.com
Photos: Getty; Thinkstock
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BIGTRIP
Take the bull by the horns Feeling bullish? Take part in Spain’s famed Running of the Bulls festival, where tensions run high and it’s every man for himself Words Helen Elfer
WHEN TO GO: The Running of the Bulls is on from July 7-14. If Thundering hooves, pounding feet, the bulls are beaten and drugged pre-fight to you’re planning to visit outside the scent of sweat and fear in the air, screaming weaken them (stopbullfighting.org.uk) and onlookers, cobbled streets sticky with sangria festival, remember temperatures many animal rights campaigners are calling are most comfortable in spring and ... all in the name of fun? It can only be the for an end to the blood sport element of the autumn (between 20-25°C). festival of San Fermín, also referred to by festival altogether. CURRENCY: £1 = ¤1.18 Aussies and Kiwis as ‘Pamps’ after its host As it is, many festival-goers prefer to avoid city Pamplona, but best known for its famous ACCOMMODATION: Hotel the bullfights and spend the rest of the week Avenida has spacious, basic rooms Running of the Bulls. merrily chugging sangria or red wine in the near Old Town from £45pn. Book This amped-up festival in northern Spain’s streets and squares of Pamplona, and the early to get one during the festival. Basque Country is a riot of colour, tradition, area around the bullring. All in all, it’s drama, danger and controversy, with critics a thoroughly hedonistic, primal week. hotelavenida.biz calling the treatment of bulls ‘barbaric’ and If you want to avoid the crowds, The near-death experience the life-threatening risk to runners, well, you can rent space on a balcony nothing short of lunacy. along the route from £65pp from Brit Oliver Myles, 29, is completely hooked. But has that put off the crowds that flock Pamplona Balconies. After taking on the bull run twice, once here in their thousands each year? Not a in 2011 and once in 2012, he’s written an pamplonabalconies.com bit. In fact the highly charged atmosphere ebook about his experience. He says despite SEE: bullrunpamplona.com for many is one of the biggest draws. Fancy the danger, the rush is every bit as heartseeing what it’s all about this year? Here’s what you need stopping as it sounds. This is the encierro through his eyes: “Most first-time runners end up along the wall or by a to know to make the most of the festival – and come out fence, gripped with fear as the herd stampedes past. This is the other side of it in one piece. exactly what happened to me when I tried to run with the The fest: encierro to party time bulls. I had felt both mentally and physically prepared for the run, but that quickly changed once the panic of the crowd, The tradition of the man and bovine run was born from the the deafening noise of feet, hooves, screams and shouting need to get bulls from outside the city into the bullring for took over. It was total chaos, mass human hysteria, grown fighting, so their minders would shout and prod them to men literally running for their lives. I was overwhelmed by make them run the route. This bull run, or encierro, turned my own survival instincts that had overridden my desire to into a festival to honour St Fermín, the patron saint of Pamplona. In the 1800s, runners began to join the herd along get near to the animals. “My first run was still incredible. Not because I ran with the way. Ernest Hemingway’s classic 1926 novel The Sun Also or in front of the herd but just because I had done it. Just Rises made the tradition famous outside Spain, and now being in those streets when the bulls pass, even if you shelter thousands of people descend on the city for a week to party, in a doorway, is a risk. Anything can happen. Those people run, watch and generally try not to get themselves gored. that hide in doorways or put themselves flat against walls Runs take place every morning between July 7 and 14, beginning at the corral in Calle Santo Domingo at 8am sharp. can still find themselves looking death in the eye – if a bull is separated from the herd and switches into survival mode Two rockets are launched to signal the release of the bulls, it might attack anything it sees as a threat, even including and they charge behind anyone brave enough to run the nervous people cowering. half-mile, which usually takes about four minutes. “When I got home after the first run my fascination had Later on, around 6.30pm, bullfighting takes place in the deepened so I returned the next year. I had been told by ring, and the sport continues until the bulls are killed. It’s a an experienced runner that it’s better not to wait until ›› violent scene, and not for the weak-stomached. It’s said the tntMagazine.com
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On the run: the encierro packs Pamplona’s streets
Ole!: a matador dances with death
Hands up if you’re nuts: smiling faces precede the mass mayhem I saw the bulls because that would be too late to run with them. But when that rocket went off and the run started, everything changed. Tactics and plans quickly evaporated and fear took over. I waited for too long in my spot and suddenly the bulls were right on top of me. There were so many people running up the street at such speed that I became pinned to the wall and unable to move. I managed to turn and take a few paces before seeing an open spot on the fencing. I threw myself onto it and turned to see nobody between myself and the herd. I watched the bulls pass only a few feet away. Although my plan to actually run with them had failed again, this was still an incredible experience for me. I will never forget the beautiful sight of one black bull in particular and the sound of his hooves on the cobblestones as he and his brothers ran together for the last time.”
expect. Experienced runners have techniques for getting the most out of their dash, so chat to people who clearly know the score and watch what they do. Finally, there’s a good chance you’ll fall over, since the narrow streets are packed. If you do take a tumble, stay down, keep still and don’t move until the bulls have passed. Cover your face and just lie there until police or onlookers let you know it’s safe to get up again. And if you need to stop running at any point, move off to the side immediately. ››
Running wild: a bull enters the arena
Staying safe
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Photos: Getty, Thinkstock
So by now you’re either shaking your head in mystification, or your appetite is well and truly whetted. If it’s the latter, there are some important safety measures you must take. After all, 15 people have died at the Pamplona event over the past century and countless have been injured. The first precaution should be pretty obvious – don’t get too drunk. Sure, the runs take place at 8am, but since the festival seems like one big piss-up at times, there’s every chance you might be wobbly in the morning, whether still drunk or nastily hungover. This is not the time to take on a herd of stampeding bulls. Police say excessive drinking by tourists has caused safety concerns in the past and the official website forbids any form of intoxication while taking part. It’s best to spend the first morning watching how it’s done and walking the route yourself so you’ll know what to tntMagazine.com
12/04/2013 12:34:25
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BEST OF THE BASQUE COUNTRY San Sebastian After a mad week of boozing and bull running in Pamplona, many travellers take the chance to decompress in some of the less manic hotspots of the Basque Country. San Sebastian is just over an hour’s drive away, so before you know it, you could be lying on the hot sands of La Concha beach or surfing the waves of Zurriola. The best views of the coastline are from the top of Monte Igueldo, which you can reach by taking a scenic ride on the 100-year-old funicular. When you’re not beach bumming, spend your time in the bars of the Parte Vieja (Old Town), with a mouthful of pintxos, the Basque take on tapas. sansebastianturismo.com Bilbao Bilbao is best known for its arty side – the shiny titanium wonder of the Guggenheim Museum is at the top of everyone’s must-see list when they get here. The Fine Arts Museum is a treasure trove, too, with contemporary works by Paul Gauguin and Francis Bacon, and influential Basque pieces. But it’s not all high-brow culture – there are plenty of outdoorsy activities on offer. The Gorbeia and Urkiola hills just outside the city are great for hiking, cycling and horseriding. And there’s the three-day Bilbao BBK Live music festival, where Green Day and Kings of Leon headline this year. It’s perfectly timed to coincide with Pamps on July 11-13. visitbilbao.info; bilbaobbklive.com
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