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SENSORY (And Calorie)
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PHOTOS BY XXXXXXX. ADDITIONAL TEXT BY MIKAELA FAJARDO.
SANDEE SIYTANGCO-MASIGAN recalls a deliciously toxic 12 hours in Madrid
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VOL.8 - ISSUE 4
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VOL.8 - ISSUE 4
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The main event was a slow-cooked baby lamb, roasted for several hours until its meat was fallingoff-the-bones tender.
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M
y memories of Madrid go way back. Paz, my maternal grandmother and a frequent visitor, loved the intensity and color of the flamenco, the excitement of the bullfights, and the flavors of its cuisine, and I first discovered Madrid through her tales of wonder. However, I never fully realized how dangerously delicious Madrid can be until a recent trip that involved a half-day of almost nonstop food. Food is like an ongoing conversation in this city, and this too was how it was for us.
FIRST STOP: A LOCAL’S FAVORITE My friends and I walked to our first restaurant just two hours after landing. We wanted a nontourist place for lunch and were pointed in the direction of the Posada de la Villa (meaning “small town inn”), which is about as local as you can possibly get.
The medieval vibe was apparent the moment I stepped over the threshold of the three-storey restaurant. It had dark polished walls, tiled floors, and a wood-fired oven as big as an elephant dominating the ground floor. Meanwhile, up a flight of stairs was the second floor dining room clad in more dark wood and bricks. The seats were like old church pews with names engraved on the back. Here, we happily left our lunch choices to the maître who cheerfully returned with trays of dishes in quick succession: a fresh pimenton con atun, crisp and creamy croquetas de pescado, calamari, morcilla with fried onions, rebueltos and my favorite, chorizo chistora.
HIGHLIGHT OF THE DAY Delicious as all these were, the specialty of the house was lamb in various incarnations. The main event was a slow-cooked baby lamb, roasted for several hours until its meat was falling-off-the-bones tender. Succulent and juicy, it was a “never mind the jus dripping on my dress” type of food.
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TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE The lamb jamon was another ode to this delicious animal. We were given hand-sliced, paper-thin slivers of lamb so tasty and tender it easily eclipsed the pork version, in my opinion. We washed these down with a beautiful red from the restaurant’s own vineyard, falling so in love with it that we wanted to buy a few bottles to take back to our hotel. To think this was only the first meal of our trip.
FINDING A GOOD REASON FOR DINNER Three hours and two bottles of wine later, we headed for El Botin (www.botin.es), the oldest restaurant in Spain, for a second round of lunch. Pork is the specialty here, as evidenced by a row of pig heads prominently displayed on copper trays, and we just had to have some of their famous cochinillo asado in a tiny space crammed with about 30 other people, history bouncing off the walls.
Full but still enthusiastic to continue sampling the best of Madrid, we made our way to the Mercato de San Miguel (www.mercadodesanmiguel.es), a stylish covered market with about a thousand delicious things to eat, including hundreds of varieties of tapas, mile-long chorizos, luscious-looking dulces, nuts, spices, paellas as big as tires, and tubs of ice cream and gelato. Giant cookies stood at attention alongside fruited puff pastries, chocolate fountains, and towering croquembouche blanketed in golden caramel strings. We slowly made our way through each row of stalls, sampling whatever interested us. By the time we finished, it was already 7 PM, which was just about the right time to begin a long walk to Chef Paco Roncero’s Estado Puro Palacaio de Tepa.
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MUST-VISIT FOODIE PLACE The Gourmet Experience at El Corte Ingles (www.elcorteingles.es) is no ordinary food hall. Amidst carefully curated food from all over the world are small kitchens of well-k nown Madrid establishments serving freshly-made tapas, sweets, pizza, cured meats, and savoury dishes. There’s even a wine room at the center and tables for dining on-the-spot.
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FEARLESS IN THE KITCHEN Inspired by the revered Catalan chef Ferran Adria of El Bulli fame, Roncero takes tapas to another level at Estado Puro by making grown-up tapas that are truly over the top. At Estado Puro, the simple anchoas on thin slices of toast were pure nostalgia, familiar and tasty. I also enjoyed the croquetas de jamon which I nibbled on enthusiastically, the callos Madrilleña from Paco’s abuela, and my ultimate favorite, foie gras on toast. Estado Puro’s version of the latter was decadent and playful – thinly toasted brioche slices with a half-inch of cold foie gras pate and a drizzle of reduced dark and sticky balsamico holding the sandwich together on a cold black tile. After 12 hours of non-stop eating, you will be forgiven for expecting us to have but a few tapas each, if not to skip dinner altogether. But we wolfed down a very respectable 11 tapas each before calling it a day – and an especially delicious one at that. n
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HISTORICAL HOTSPOTS
Madrid Gastronomy Gran Via, the street that never sleeps, is an upscale shopping street, a place for theater lovers, and home of grand architectural buildings such as the Capitol and the Metropolis Building. The street is well known for its excellent examples of 20th century architecture.
Located a few blocks from Puerta Del Sol, the beautiful and busy Plaza Mayor is Madrid’s central plaza and the venue of municipal and cultural events such as markets, bullfights, and festivals.
The Plaza De Cebeles fountain has become one of Madrid’s most iconic landmarks. The fountain was originally believed to have provided water to the city in another location
Serving as Madrid’s main train station, the Estacion De Atocha is also a famous tourist attraction because of its beautiful design and postcard-perfect luminous lighting at night.
One of the city’s busiest spots, the Puerta Del Sol houses government buildings such as the main post office and the Madrid City Council. A statue of Charles III serves as a landmark.
SHOPPING IN THE CITY Rastro De Madrid is the city’s biggest flea market, with musical performances and hundreds of stalls selling everything from souvenirs to secondhand kitchen items. La Central De Callao (www.lacentral.com), a bookstore and café has a wide array of books about art, photography, history, and design. Curiosite (www.curiosite.es) is a souvenir shop with unusual and memorable products like Spanish tapas coasters. Rikkitikkitavi (camisetasecologicasonline.com) sells one-of-a-kind ecological T-shirts and products made of cotton and bamboo with unique designs for kids and adults.
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No visit to Madrid is ever complete without indulging in some CHURROS CON CHOCOLATE. This dessert and snack made of light and crispy fried batter partnered with a rich and thick chocolate dip gives the tastes buds a scrumptious feast.
Try the Chocolateria San Gines (www.chocolateriasangines.com), which has been serving this delicacy since 1894.
HUEVOS ROTOS, which means “broken eggs,” is made up of chorizo, egg, onions, and green peppers. This is typically served as a hearty breakfast or lunch meal for locals. One of the best versions can be sampled at El Mollete (www.tabernaelmollete.com)
CALLOS A LA MADRILLEÑA, Madrid’s celebrated dish, and is made of beef tripe, hooves and snout, and flavored with chorizo and blood sausages in a tomatobased sauce that is simmered for hours. Head for the La Tasquita de Enfrente (www.latasquitadeenfrente.com), highly recommended by locals.
Usually served in the winter, the COCIDO MADRILEÑO is made of garbanzos (chickpeas), meat, and vegetables. What makes this dish unique is its serving style: each ingredient of the cocido is served separately and known as a vuelco (“tipping” or “emptying out”), since the pot must be emptied for each ingredient. Casa Lhardy (www.lhardy.com) is among the most elegant specialty restaurants in Madrid.
COCHINILLO ASADO or roast suckling pig is a famous dish usually served during special events. The pig is seasoned with olive oil, garlic, salt and thyme, and then slow-cooked until the meat is tender and the skin is golden brown and crispy. Many restaurants do this local favorite well, but we recommend El Botin (www.botin.es), reportedly the oldest restaurant in Spain, for its history.
ADDITIONAL TEXT BY MIKAELA FAJARDO.
Known as one of the most beautiful in all of Europe, Palacio Real was previously burned in a fire during the Christmas of 1734. It was later rebuilt under King Felipe V. Although the King of Spain does not reside in this palace, official dinners and other important state ceremonies are still held here.
ARCHITECTURAL LANDMARKS
ADDITIONAL TEXT BY MIKAELA FAJARDO.
The centuries-old Palacio De Cibeles stands out because of its exquisite design. This architectural landmark offers the best view of the city from its restaurant on the top floor (www.adolfopalaciodecibeles.com), which is overseen by award-winning chef Adolfo Munoz of Toledo. Palacio De Cristal is a one-of-a-kind structure made of glass and metal in the city’s popular Buen Retiro Park. Modeled after London’s famous circa 19th century Crystal Palace, it is at its most beautiful when it is lit up at night. The Teatro Real (www.teatro-real.com) is Madrid’s premier opera house and the main venue for ballet performances. Formerly the office of the powerful bakers’ guild of Madrid, the Casa De La Panaderia is made of wood and bricks with two Flemish-style towers. Its ground floor contains beautifully designed porticos.
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ASTORIA HOTELS AND RESORTS unveils a water wonderland in Palawan
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STORIA HOTELS AND RESORTS has opened the Palawan Waterpark by Astoria, a 4,000 square meter facility adjacent to Astoria Palawan. The park’s Surf ’s Up wave pool has six wave settings for the whole family to enjoy while the peak of the Ascend Climbing Wall offers spectacular views of the island’s natural wonders. The Tumbling Buckets Kidzone is perfect for water babies with its pool, tube slides, tumbling bucket of water, and hoop spray tunnel.
The Palawan Waterpark by Astoria also offers plenty of places to relax and unwind with loved ones; from the filling dishes of Ark Seafood Restaurant to the natural beauty of the Marine Sanctuary Splash Pad. Astoria Palawan guests and walk-in visitors may access the Palawan Waterpark by Astoria via stand-alone passes or as part of Astoria Palawan’s accommodation packages. As summer draws nearer, watch out for the upcoming monthly and seasonal promotions and take advantage of this new Astoria facility. n
ASTORIA PALAWAN Km 62 North National Highway, Brgy. San Rafael, Puerto Princesa City www.astoriapalawan.com
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TRAVELLER’S CHECKLIST VISA REQUIREMENTS Most visitors to Spain are required to have a Schengen visa before entering. Please check at the nearest Spanish embassy or consulate. EXCHANGE RATE US$ 1 = 0.90 Euros
HOW TO GET THERE Flights from Southeast Asia to Madrid are available via Turkish Airlines and other major international carriers.
WHEN TO GO The best time to visit Madrid is in the fall (September to November) or during spring (March to May) because of pleasant temperatures. Tourist information is available at Madrid’s Barajas Airport.
LIVING LA VIDA LOCA One of Madrid’s oldest tapas bars, La Trucha (latrucha.es) stands out because of its fresh tapas and signature drinks. It’s particularly famous for its trout and pescaito frito. Marula Café (www.marulacafe.com) is a club widely-k nown for its distinct and lively music. Open u ntil su nrise, their repertoire includes genres of fu nk, soul, jazz, hip-hop, and even Southern music. Vinicola Mentridana is a tapas and wine bar with affordable prices and good music. (Calle San Eugenio, Madrid)
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WHERE TO STAY THE WESTIN PALACE HOTEL This 5-star hotel, known to many simply as the “Palace,” is within reach of cultural attractions and shopping areas. Enjoy an exquisite brunch at its restaurant La Rotonda (www.larotondapalace.com) as music swells under the beautiful stained glass dome of the hotel. www.westinpalacemadrid.com THE HOTEL RITZ Now under the Mandarin Oriental group, this luxurious old-style hotel in a central location boasts of elegant rooms and the highly acclaimed The Goya Restaurant, which offers delicious Spanish delicacies. www.ritzcarlton.com VILLA MAGNA One of Madrid’s leading hotels, this chic hotel is close to designer boutiques and known for its hospitable staff, stylish design, and terraces with great views of the city. www.villamagna.es ME MADRID REINA VICTORIA This old-fashioned hotel offers guests the best views from its rooftop. The building was constructed in the early 20th century but its interiors have been completely renovated to reflect a modern and innovative design. www.memadrid.com HOSPES MADRID This sophisticated and elegant hotel offers one of the best spa experiences in the city. www.hospes.com
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