TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE: The Hidden Treasure of the Marianas

EXPLORE TRAVEL SAIPAN UNITED KINGDOM SILVERSEA

TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE

The Hidden

Treasure of the

PHOTOS BY TRACEY HEPNER.

Saipan answers every desire to become “wonderfully lost,” only to find your senses uncovered and revived, says MICHELLE BARRERA

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VOL. 9 - ISSUE 2

TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE

I

did not know what kinds of adventures lay ahead of me, as our airplane flew over ships docked out at sea, a pretty show of scattered lights contrasting with the dark landing strip beneath us.

Arriving in Saipan in the darkness of early dawn created an air of mystery around this second largest island of the Commonwealth of the Northern Marianas Islands, and one I knew little about prior to my visit.

Fortunately, I found in Saipan, an island with a population of 64,000, vibrant and beautiful tropical gem with all the makings of an ideal eco-tourism destination. It’s still quite under the radar for now, making it the place to visit before the rest of the world discovers its charms.

CHASING SUNRISE We checked into the Fiesta Resort, one of the island’s top resorts a hop and a skip from the main street of downtown Garapan and yet with a striking beachfront, just as the sun was about to rise. On the horizon, dawn was breaking silently yet hastily, prodding us eagerly to get our day started.

So instead of heading for bed, I made my way to the rental car company to take charge of a sleek and powerful yellow Mustang convertible, perfect for chasing the sunrise. With a zoom and a vroom, I sped down the wide-open Flame Tree road, Saipan’s main thoroughfare, and then made my way to the beach road which goes around the entire Saipan,

SAIPAN

giving travelers an easy opportunity to explore the entire coast of this 14 mile-long island in a day.

I was a little disappointed to have missed the peak of the flame tree blossoms by just a few weeks, but the easy breezy drive made up for it. The flame tree road gave a luxurious “lost-in-the-middle-of-abeautiful-nowhere” feel.

Along the way, I stopped by several landmarks recalling Saipan’s historic role in the Second World War. Banzai Cliff, with its magnificent views of the Pacific Ocean and vivid shades of sparkling blue waves crashing onto the cliffs and rock pools below, carries a tragic history with it. Thousands of Japanese soldiers and

SAIPAN’S SPANISH ROOTS AND A PHILIPPINE RELATIONSHIP It has been noted that perhaps the very first sighting of Europeans on the island was through the Magellan expedition; while the first clear indication of Europeans arriving was through the Manila Galleon, Santa Margarita, which got shipwrecked near the island, grounding the survivors for two years before they were rescued.

Having been colonized by the Spanish in 1668 before being sold to the German Empire in 1899, and then captured in 1914 by the Japanese, it is no wonder that Saipan is so culturally diverse.

This diversity is seen through its food, the architecture in different parts of the island, and the native dialects of her people. It has also become home to many Filipinos. In fact, Filipinos make up 35% of the population.

VOL. 9 - ISSUE 2

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TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE civilians leapt to their deaths from this cliff to avoid surrendering to American troops when the war ended. Not far from Banzai Cliff is Suicide Cliff, which also holds a similar gruesome tale.

The views from the cliffs were beautiful and filled with shades of green that crawled softly towards the sea’s gradient blues. In contrast, the tombstones and memorials at these spots were a bleak reminder of the war and its historic impact on this island.

LAST MEN STANDING See history unfold before your eyes at the LAST COMMAND POST, home to original cannons, tanks, anti-aircraft guns, and large artillery pieces. The renowned cliff side bunker housed the last remnants of an organized Japanese military defense during World War II.

Somewhere around the island, too, a submerged tank appears and disappears with the tide and a Japanese war plane is visible from beneath the water’s azure surface.

DEEP INTO THE UNKNOWN One of my main destinations in Saipan was The Grotto, 106 steps down into a picturesque cavern for cave diving and snorkelling with the most eye-popping shades of blue water to reward you at the bottom. The Grotto’s water conditions require a certain diver skill-level, though, and this isn’t much of a surprise as Saipan is located along the Marianas Trench, which form among the deepest oceans of the world.

I promised myself I would return to Saipan for a dive at the Grotto one day. For now, I opted to explore the other islands within the Northern Marianas Islands where I could enjoy relaxing by the sea and trying out a variety of water sports and activities.

The island is spotted with these remnants of war that tell stories of loss, strife and death. These pieces, important relics of history, are etched into my memory.

LOOKING OVER THE EDGE Bird’s Island

BANZAI CLIFF (Puntalan Sabaneta) is a historic landmark in Saipan so named after defeated Japanese soldiers and civilians shouted “Tenno heika, banzai” (“Long live the Emperor!”) before throwing themselves off the coastal cliff to die rather than to surrender to Americans. Monuments for the dead now line the cliff-top.

SUICIDE CLIFF (Laderan Banadero) has become a pilgrimage destination and a peace memorial to remind people of the atrocities of war and to offer wishes of world peace. Like the Banzai Cliff, defeated Japanese soldiers and families committed suicide by jumping off.

BIRD’S ISLAND (Isleta Maigo Fahang) translates as the island of sleeping seabirds. This is a protected sanctuary for a variety of bird species, making it the perfect spot for natural wildlife viewing. The marine area surrounding it is also a protected marine sanctuary where many sharks and manta rays have been sighted.

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ADDITIONAL TEXT BY TINE PIEDAD.

EXPLORE TRAVEL SAIPAN UNITED KINGDOM SILVERSEA

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CONQUERING FEARS Just a 7-minute boat ride from the main island’s port is the unassuming Managaha Island, a pretty 40-hectare islet which is one of the most beautiful I have ever seen.

Powdery white sand surrounds the island itself, and clear crystal blue waters with visibility as far as the eye can see are home to an array of marine species, coral reefs, and WWII wrecks, such as the Japanese fighter jet that crashed in nearby waters when it was shot down.

It is also the burial ground of Aghurubw, the famous Carolinian chief who is said to have established a Carolinian settlement in the area in 1815. This popular tourist spot is registered on the United States National Register for Historic Places as an historic district and does not house any permanent residents.

With its unspoiled natural habitat and history, Managaha Island offers a range of exciting water activities. Snorkelling is perhaps the most popular; but for those who are bucket listing like myself, the diving and parasailing options are very attractive. Since I had crossed diving off my bucket list in previous months, I decided it was time to conquer my fear of heights.

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UP IN THE AIR

In fact, the “flight” was actually very relaxing. It was extraordinary to be able to literally have a bird’s eye view of the entire island and still be able to see the ocean floor so clearly through the water while flying above it. The guides were wonderful and were excellent at handling first-timers from the very start of my parasail adventure.

Knowing I was ticking something off my bucket list must have made them excited, too. Once they noticed I was comfortable flying on top, they decided to add some “spice” to my adventure. I shrieked as they surprised me by playing tricks with the boat from the bottom, dipping me on occasion into the water just enough to get my legs wet before pulling me back up.

Nevertheless, I always felt safe, and it’s always a welcome surprise to realize that whatever I had once feared has finally been ticked off my bucket list. Admittedly, it brought out the daredevil in me and now makes me want to keep adding more to my list.

WONDERS BENEATH THE SEA THE GROTTO is known as one of Saipan’s best and most challenging diving spot. The collapsed limestone cavern has a blue pool connected to the ocean by three underwater passages. Below the surface is a wide array of sea creatures, such as white-tip reef sharks, barracudas, and octopi.

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ADDITIONAL TEXT BY TINE PIEDAD. PARASAILING PHOTO BY CEIA YLAGAN.

I jumped into a boat and decided I was finally going to conquer my fear of hanging without a platform under my feet by parasailing. What an amazing experience! It was nowhere near as scary as I expected—aside from the initial anxiety when I was being hooked on to the parasail rope.

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SAIPAN

I discovered the reasons for the inexplicable reaction of locals when asked about Forbidden Island. First, the island is quite difficult to get to. Second, the island is said to be “cursed”.

GETTING WONDERFULLY LOST Nothing whets my appetite for adventure more than a great challenge. In my search for activities to do while in Saipan, I came across the legendary Forbidden Island. It was Saipan’s “hidden” gem, and when I asked locals about it, I was often greeted with a wide-eyed “Oh!” followed by thoughtful looks that seemed to stop them as they recalled a memory. This piqued my interest even more and fuelled my adventurous spirit further.

Later, I discovered the reasons for the inexplicable reaction of locals when asked about Forbidden Island. First, the island is quite difficult to get to. One must take a trek down a steep hill to get to the island, and with Saipan’s tropical climate, the hike can be quite unforgiving on days when the sun is scorching. Second, the island is said to be “cursed” because it was once the place where terminally ill locals were brought to die. Of course no one wanted to go there because of this. Third, there have been several deaths on the island because some locations around it are dangerous even for skilled swimmers.

My excellent powers of persuasion worked overtime to convince my companions on the TRAVELIFE Magazine team to join me on a Forbidden Island adventure at the crack of dawn the next day.

WHAT LIES BENEATH We headed first to the Marianas Trekking Center for a briefing with our guides before our music and laughter-filled adventure began across the other side of the island.

We arrived at the start of the trekking trail, at the top of a hill, at the peak of sunrise. The trek down was an estimated 30 minutes with a little bit of rappelling on the side—but it took us a little longer than expected. Sure, there were some quick stops to catch our breath, but mostly it was due to our many photo-op stops to capture the breathtaking views on the way down.

Before we knew it we were at the bottom of the trail, where rock formations and rock pools that had trapped small fish during low tide awaited us. We were so taken by the amazing sight that we temporarily forgot our exhaustion. We happily jumped into the refreshing pools, and I made some new underwater friends in the process.

SALVAGING A DRESS I ended up crossing off three more items on my bucket list that morning: a trek, an [under]water shoot, and the trashing of my infamous “crazy” dress which our tour guide and driver Keoni gamely carried through the trek and back—and which actually makes it to the cover of this issue.

This “crazy” dress earned its moniker after I described to them what it looked like and how I had to deal with buyer’s remorse when I realized how “crazy” it was.

Well, the “crazy” dress turned out to be better suited for aquatic activities—even the fish loved it! As we played around with some water photography, the shots grew more and more exciting as the tide came in, bringing with it larger fish that crossed under the coves between the many pools to play with us.

Heading back up to the top of the trail in the midday sun after a very active morning was a bit of a challenge, but we took our time to enjoy the trek back up the nearly vertical mountainside. It was all well worth the effort, too, as we made some amazing memories and new friends along the way.

I knew I just had to go there.

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THE SUN SETS IN SAIPAN In need of a more relaxed activity after a physically demanding morning, I made my way to the beautiful, award-winning Lao Lao Bay Golf Course. The golf course, designed by Greg “the Shark” Norman in the mid 1990s, hosts two courses, East and West, with a signature par three 6th hole of the East course played over crashing waves into a green 136 yards away along the edge of a cliff.

It was this course that blew my mind and stole my heart. As I teed off into the sunset, Mother Nature gave me poetry. The mix of the golden setting sun hit the greens in the foreground surrounded by palm trees, and the pristine crystal blue waves of the ocean crashed into the cliffs below, while Kingfisher birds took flight to soak up the last of the sunset’s warm rays—it was an afternoon of pure poetic magic.

I soon discovered that sunsets in Saipan are always dramatic and these demand one’s full attention. I found this out the Travelife way, too, while aboard the Mariana Grand, a luxurious yacht equipped with everything one needs to go on a lavish oceanic adventure. It had state-of-the-art dining

areas, two sundecks, a jacuzzi, four VIP rooms, a presidential suite, and multiple lounging areas. The yacht comes with an excellent staff ready to assist and address any of the guests’ needs, too.

Our short but sweet island adventure came to a close with Saipan gifting me with an extraordinary sunset as I enjoyed every minute of my time living a Travelife. Then, as I leaned against the yacht’s deck, gazing longingly at the open sea, a sea turtle bobbed its head above water, as if seeing me off and wishing me a safe trip back home. n Special thanks to Marianas Visitors Authority and Tasi Tours.

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ENTRENCHED IN THE BATTLEFIELD Saipan was discovered by Ferdinand Magellan during his 1521 expedition, which lead to the colonization of the island.

During World War I in 1914, Saipan was overtaken by Japan, transforming the island into one the largest Japanese settlements. Under Japanese rule, Saipan developed large-scale sugar plantations, sugar refineries, infrastructures such as port facilities, power stations, and paved roads and schools.

The “Battle of Saipan” took place between June and July 1944, with Japan and the United States on opposing sides. The bloody battle led to thousands of dead American soldiers and Japanese soldiers and civilians committing suicide by jumping off of Suicide Cliff and Banzai Cliff.

At the end of World War II, Saipan became part of the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands, administered by the United States, while majority of surviving Japanese settlers were repatriated to Japan.

THE ISLANDER’S BUCKETLIST TO SAIPAN Dive deep into The Grotto and choose from three underwater pathways to witness the expanse of blue waters, corals, and the occasional white-tip reef sharks.

GOING BANANAS

For a taste of local art, try out banana stalk painting in a Chamorro village. This stamp painting technique uses various pieces of banana stems and parts of the banana trunk as a “paintbrush” for creating interesting patterns and designs.

Seek solitude on Managaha Island located at the Tanapag lagoon, a stretch of white sand and vividly clear waters perfect for snorkeling.

Hike up Mount Tapochao, the highest peak in Saipan, and discover a sweeping panorama of blue waters and lush greens.

Explore the rugged caves found in the rocky terrains of Forbidden Island and find its hidden pool for a refreshing dip.

ADDITIONAL TEXT BY TINE PIEDAD.

Visit the American Memorial Park, where American and Marianas soldiers from the Marianas Campaign of World War II are honored. The park has white beaches, picnic sites, and a protected wetland and mangrove forest.

Buy local delicacies, mountain apples, and other fresh crops at the Sabalu Farmers Market.

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TRAVEL UNITED KINGDOM SILVERSEA

TRAVELIFE MAGAZINE Saipan is the second largest island of the Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands in the western Pacific Ocean. The island is the embodiment of natural beauty, with sandy beaches on the western side and rocky cliffs on the eastern side. Tourists flock to the island for water sport activities such as diving, snorkelling, and parasailing, and to enjoy the slow-paced island living.

WHERE TO STAY

VISA REQUIREMENTS A valid United States visa is required when visiting Saipan, as it is considered a U.S. territory.

TIME DIFFERENCE Saipan is two hours ahead of most countries in Southeast Asia.

HOW TO GET THERE Philippine Airlines offers direct flights from Manila to Saipan.

WHEN TO GO Saipan is best visited during the dry season, from December to March, when the weather is clear and sunny. Typhoons and heavy rainfall typically occur from May to November.

FIESTA RESORT & SPA SAIPAN This beachfront resort is perfect for watersports and sunset viewing. It also offers the entertaining “Joyful Dinner Show” which showcases local indigenous culture at its best, replete with fire dancers and fire-eaters performing thrilling routines, while enjoying authentic barbeque dishes. fiestasaipan.com BEST SUNSHINE SAIPAN Saipan’s first casino has nearly 50 live and licensed table games and 106 state-of-the-art slot machines. Its soonto-open Grand Mariana resort promises luxury accommodations and exceptional dining outlets. bestsunshine.com

WHERE TO EAT Costa Terrace Restaurant, one of the many restaurants in the Aqua Resort Club Saipan (aquaresortsaipan.com), has an open terrace with views of the ocean that diners can enjoy while sampling dishes from its predominantly Italianthemed buffet. Take advantage of its pasta bar where diners can have their favorite pasta dishes made a la minute.

Country House Restaurant (countryhouse.co.jp) is a Wild West inspired steakhouse recognized as the best on the island, with generations of American farmers and ranchers selecting, raising, and feeding cattle that are later served in the restaurant.

Kanoa Resort’s (kanoaresort.com) Barefoot BBQ offers diners the option to choose between cooking their own selection of seafood and meat dishes or having one of the local chefs prepare an abundant feast of authentic Saipan flavors.

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FIESTA BOAT PHOTO BY CHRISTINE CUNANAN.

TRAVELER’S CHECKLIST

HYATT REGENCY SAIPAN This five-star hotel has a beachfront setting just minutes from the town center, and the i saguá spa, which offers relaxing and traditional treatments for the face and the body. The spa’s treatment menu is designed with four concepts in mind to provide the ultimate pampering experience: bula (nourish), tasi (restore), må’te (cleanse) and hafnot (energize). saipan.regency.hyatt.com