TRAVELIFE Magazine Bohol Issue: Special 8th Anniversary issue

VOL. 8

www.travelife.biz

ISSUE 1

Everywhere you want to be

th 8 Anniversary Issue

Art tripping in

PALAWAN

Giraffes by the beach in

Ghost-hunting in

NORTHERN LUZON

DAVAO Watching Wimbledon in

Bohol

CEBU

Discovering a royal paradise

+

KID-FRIENDLY ACTIVITIES IN SINGAPORE

ISSN 1908-7276

SPAIN’s DIVERSE LANDSCAPES

PhP US$ JP¥ HK$ SG$

STEPPING BACK IN TIME IN MYANMAR

190.00 5.00 600 40.00 8.00

72

Destinations 72 FOCUS ON

BOHOL

50

BEAUTIFUL BOUNTIES

58

RISING FROM RUINS

The City of Friendship brings more than breathtaking sites and natural wonders

Resilience and an indomitable spirit are putting Bohol on the global travelers’ map

78 84 94

2

United Kingdom

MURDER ON A LONDON EXPRESS

An exciting train ride through the English countryside, full of mystery and crime Thailand

PEACE, HAPPINESS & GOOD HEALTH

Going on detox at a multiawarded spa in Koh Samui Tasmania

10 REASONS TO VISIT TASMANIA NOW Thrilling activities and captivating views of nature the Australian wild China

THE HOUSE THAT PORCELAIN BUILT

The story of a merchant’s house covered in intricate porcelain

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ON THE COVER Photograph by: Bryan Arevalo Cover model: Christina Ann Chusuey Hair and make-up: Pepoy Tancinco Styling: Joana Carrasco Special thanks to Henann Resort Alona Beach, Bohol and Wow Bohol Tours.

vol.8 - issue 1

Features

36 40 42

4

Travelife Style PRUDENT PLANNERS

92

Practical tips on financial planning for a trip

TO CELEBRATE GOOD WRITING

Immersing in culture and art at the Guernsey Literary Festival

116

SOUTHERN FOOD FOR THOUGHT

A culinary adventure in one of America’s most charming cities

44

NATURE TRIPPING

46

LIGHTS OVER SYDNEY

122

The best adventure trails in Texas

An extravagant laser show in Darling Harbour

132

Festivals

A TALE OF MANY TRIBES Nueva Vizcaya’s annual celebration of diversity

126

Virtual Tourist

DISCOVERING ANCIENT SITES For the culture buff, 10 overlooked yet stunning Mayan sites to visit 36 Hours

ENCHANTED BY AN EXOTIC CITY

134 138

An art gallery owner shares her blackbook for colorful Marrakech Business Class

REDEFINING LANDSCAPES A prominent property developer continues the family legacy

www.travelife.biz

150

Embassy Row

VIVA ESPAÑA Spanish Ambassador Luis Calvo explains Spain’s attraction for thousands of travelers Travelife with Kids

FUN & GAMES @ SABI-SABI

A family-friendly game reserve that teaches young guests about wildlife

LESSONS IN LIFE South Africa’s largest Big Five game reserve with tailor-made programs for young safari-goers RSVP

A TASTE OF GOOD THINGS TO COME The successful launch of the L’Aperitivo Italiano cocktails

vol.8 - issue 1

In Every Issue 10

From the Publisher

14

Concierge Your Travel Information Help Desk

96 102

Check in: Sri Lanka

MAGIC AMONG THE MOUNTAINS

by Christine Cunanan Unparalleled views of lush tea plantations and the famous Knuckles mountain range

The Hungry Traveler: Chile

DELICIOUS SURPRISES IN AN EXOTIC CITY

22

Flight Club

Top airlines for frequent travelers

by Jerome Velasco Experimental cuisine in one of South America’s best restaurants

26

Calendar

Trigger Happy: Vancouver Island

124

Two months’ worth of events to check out

108

114

THE ROAD TO TOFINO

By Dondi Joseph A serendipitous drive through a quaint town on a remote island

124

152

Viajero Chronicles: Onuk Islandd

THE OUTER REACHES OF THE FINAL FRONTIER

By Gabby Malvar A solitary sojourn to the edge of the Philippines’ last frontier

The Frequent Flier: Iceland

FOOD FOR THE SOUL Stumbling upon the best lobsters, at the very edge of the world

Everywhere you want to be

CHRISTINE O. CUNANAN Publisher & Editor-in-Chief travelife@travelife.biz

editorial CEIA YLAGAN BRYAN AREVALO GABBY MALVAR DONDI JOSEPH DAVID LIM JEROME VELASCO PATRICIA CENDAÑA

BOARD OF DIRECTORS KEIICHI MIKI Chairman

Managing Editor ceia.ylagan@travelife.biz

Creative Director

LUIGI BERNAS MAJA OLIVARES-CO MARIVIC PUYAT-LIMCAOCO JOSEPH MADRID ANDREW MASIGAN JOSE ROSENDO SOLIS Directors

Domestic Editor-at-Large Contributing Editors

Contributing Columnist Editorial Assistant

PUBLISHING REPRESENTATIVES

Contributors Joana Carrasco, Pamela Del Prado, Ronith Jazel Dela Cruz, Mikaela Fajardo, Abby Maglaya, Teddy Pelaez, Pepoy Tancinco, Julia Wimmerlin, Fred Zeph

PUBLISHING ANGELICA D. BAYONA

General Manager angelica.bayona@travelife.biz

MARICEL DIOSANA

Finance Officer

IRYNN CONSTANTE

Director of Sales Marketing Manager aaronhernandez@travelife.biz

KEVIN LAPEÑA

India Mohammed Ahmedullah (91)(11) 223-75-398

Australia & New Zealand Shirley Wee (61) 403-579-315

Italy Roberta Kedzierski (39)(02) 7012-8679

China Wendy Shao (86)(21) 6417-6999

Japan Kuriko Miki (81)(80) 3457-9505

France Benjamin Bruneau (33)(6) 22-62-18-11

North America Carla Jaramillo (1)(201) 440-0605

Germany Susanne-Angela Kalus de Braganca (49)(172) 815-5966

Singapore Gina Jocson (65) 6348-8675

Hong Kong Jane Parry (852) 2857-9753

irynnconstante.travelife@gmail.com

AARON HERNANDEZ

Austria & United Kingdom Lori Taus (43)(650) 722-5452

Indonesia Zatni Arbi (62)(818) 838-044

Switzerland Markus Hoerl (43)(676) 306-6970 Taiwan Kelly Her (886)(919) 999-422

Business Development Manager kevinlapena@travelife.biz

MITOS LUSTERIO CARMELA PANTALEON RHODA RENTORIA

8

Advertising Managers

Traffic & Billings Manager

ELVIE BACOLONGAN

Circulations Officer

PAMELA DEL PRADO

Executive Assistant

JOSE ROSENDO SOLIS

Legal Counsel

VICTOR R. SANTOS, JR.

Web Developer

Published by TRIDEM ASIA PUBLISHING, INC. Suite 201, 2/F Alexander House, 132 Amorsolo Street, Legazpi Village, Makati City, 1229, Philippines. Copyright 2013 by Tridem Asia Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any manner without permission of the publisher, who reserves the right to accept or reject editorial or advertising material. Tridem Asia Publishing, Inc. does not authenticate any claim or guarantee offered by advertisers in this magazine.

Address all correspondences to Travelife Magazine, Tridem Asia Publishing, Inc. For comments, suggestions, or inquiries, call (632) 813-8400, (632) 892-2620, fax (632) 893-7539, or e-mail travelife@ travelife.biz. For new subscriptions, changes of address, or other services related to subscription, call (632) 892-2620. Requests for reprints may not be accommodated, unless the order is for 500 or more copies. Story proposals may be e-mailed to editorial@travelife.biz. Publication of such stories, however, is not guaranteed. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, and artworks will not be returned, unless accompanied by self-addressed stamped envelopes.

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vol.8 - issue 1

FROM THE PUBLISHER

BEAUTIFUL ISLANDS Loire Valley, France July 2015

They happily discovered a region staging a remarkable comeback for tourism after a series of unfortunate calamities, including a devastating earthquake and a terrible typhoon.

Bohol is indeed a gem of a destination for travelers seeking culture and adventure, as well as luxury, with all the new resorts in Panglao. Foremost among these is the Hennan Resort Alona Beach, Bohol, which formally opens this month on a splendid beachfront with the largest convention center in the province. Don’t leave home without our comprehensive guide to the best of Bohol.

MAKING FRIENDS IN CANADA (page 108) Ever the adventurer, DONDI JOSEPH rented a car in Vancouver, drove it onto a ferry and headed for a small town on a remote island that you have most likely never heard of. He found a charming B&B with a very friendly owner, a couple of great restaurants, and an excellent guide who took him to see black bears and introduced him to a local tribal chieftain.

NATURE-TRIPPING IN PALAWAN (page 114)

tiny private island with nothing but a nipa hut for shelter and sea turtles for company.

While such circumstances might make others uneasy – there’s no one else for miles, after all – he was ecstatic with the solitude and the untouched beauty around him, and reluctant to leave the his paradise found.

GLAMPING & AFTERNOON TEA (page 96) Meanwhile, I recently returned to Sri Lanka with a group of friends. One of the highlights of our adventure was a glamping holiday complete with afternoon tea and pre-dinner cocktails on a tea plantation at the foot of the UNESCO World Heritagelisted Knuckles Mountain Range.

Like many wonderful destinations off the beaten track, it was literally a pain to reach, and we were exhausted by the time we reached the lodge via a seemingly endless narrow mountain road in the pouring rain. But our troubles were worth it, as we discovered a retreat unlike any other, even for ladies who have been there and done that all over the world.

THE NOMA OF SOUTH AMERICA (page 102) Finally, as always, JEROME VELASCO has found another excellent restaurant to write about in an exotic locale. Just before boarding a cruise ship for the ends of the earth, he and his mother and sisters visited Borago in Santiago, Chile, one of South America’s best restaurants. In spite of having eaten everywhere good in this world, he came away from Borago raving about a creative, cutting-edge and delicious meal.

Indeed, no one travels like us.

Or writes like us.

CHRISTINE CUNANAN Publisher travelife@travelife.biz

AN UNFORGETTABLE LUNCH IN ICELAND (page 152) Then, soon after that, I was at the other end of the world in the surreal Arctic for the summer. One day, we drove for hours looking for nothing in particular, and instead we found a tiny wooden shack serving the best lobsters in the world.

Taking travel to the extreme, GABBY MALVAR went on an arduous voyage from Palawan’s capital of Puerto Princesa to a

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Read about some unforgettable holidays in amazing places

Breakfast on the way to Iceland, living a #Travelife www.travelife.biz

PHOTO BY christine cunanan.

F

or this eight anniversary issue, Travelife Managing Editor Ceia Ylagan and Creative Director Bryan Arevalo led the team that flew to Bohol for our cover shoot with businesswoman Christina Chusuey on Panglao island (page 50).

IN THE SUN

vol.8 - issue 1

CONTRIBUTORS PAGE

“This part of Palawan is less prominent than El Nido, Coron, or Sabang; yet it is no less spectacular.”

YOUR FAVORITE AIRPORT?

YOUR FAVORITE AIRLINE?

I like the Cebu Airport. I like eating

Singapore Airlines. I like the food and

there.

the service.

YOUR PRE-FLIGHT GO-TO FOOD?

THE BEST MEAL YOU’VE EVER HAD ON A PLANE?

A Coke.

Twenty years ago, I was still in the

THE FIRST THING YOU DO AS SOON AS YOU GET SETTLED IN YOUR SEAT IN THE PLANE?

corporate world and I was sent to Geneva by my company. I was upgraded to first class and I remember all the perks – the foie gras,

Grab the in-flight magazine.

the best wine and cheese, the truffles

YOUR FAVORITE AIRPORT? NAIA Terminal two YOUR PRE-FLIGHT GO-TO FOOD? Hot noodles.

YOUR AIRLINE PET PEEVE?

and the pampering. And they know

Crying babies. I just try to be

your name. Happened only once.

THE FIRST THING YOU DO AS SOON

THE BUMPIEST FLIGHT YOU’VE EVER HAD?

IN THE PLANE? Put on seat belt.

understanding though. There is no way you will come out as a decent person

GABBY MALVAR lounged on a hammock by his lonesome on an island in Palawan’s last frontier.

TEDDY PELAEZ aimed his lens at the 18 tribes who participated in Nueva Vizcaya’s Ammungan Festival.

if you call it out. You just deal with it.

Before you could only fly to El Nido via those small Anscor Aviation planes. It

WHAT’S THE WORST THING ABOUT A LAYOVER?

had been raining when we flew and

As long as there are good book

the whole flight was just an experience

stores or places to eat, layovers are

in turbulence. The pilot’s door swung

tolerable. That said, no bookstores or

open in the middle of the flight

restaurants would be the worst case.

and I could see what was beyond the cockpit. Nothing. Just grey. I wondered if we would make it. Ah, the power of prayer.

AS YOU GET SETTLED IN YOUR SEAT

THE WORST THING ABOUT A LAYOVER? It’s a waste of time.

WHAT AMENITY OR FACILITY WOULD BE IN AN IDEAL AIRPORT FOR YOU? Clean comfort room.

YOUR FAVORITE AIRLINE AND WHY? PAL, oldest airline in Asia.

“Bohol is u nderrated – to me, it has everything. Tagbilaran is a great city with good nightlife, cinemas, and lots of shopping options.”

YOUR FAVORITE AIRPORT?

THE WORST THING ABOUT A LAYOVER?

Changi Airport because of its easy accessibility

Sticky hair, melted make-up, and lack of sleep – and

and wide range of stores to visit.

trying to stay awake so I won’t end up rushing or getting left behind.

YOUR PRE-FLIGHT GO-TO FOOD? I love Filipino cuisine. Before I travel and when

THE BEST THING TO DO DURING A LONG LAYOVER?

I get back, I always make it a point to have

To eat and shop. It’s always nice to try out what a

Filipino food.

country has to offer. At the same time, I like posting my experiences all over my social media accounts.

THE FIRST THING YOU DO WHEN YOU GET ON

(IG: @tinchusuey | Snapchat: tinchusuey).

THE PLANE? I take out my earphones and phone so I can

YOUR FAVORITE AIRLINE AND WHY?

just doze off before the plane takes off.

When it comes to food and cost, I really like our very own, Philippine Airlines. But putting that aside and

YOUR AIRLINE PET PEEVE?

judging only on comfort, I really like Emirates, not

When the lavatory isn’t clean enough for my

only their planes, but their lounges too.

liking. I always want to be comfortable before I

Henann Resorts Group heiress CHRISTINA ANN CHUSUEY was our cover model for this Bohol special.

use the toilet.

THE BEST MEAL YOU’VE EVER HAD ON A PLANE? I remember a flight from the United States to Manila where I had a meal on Philippine Airlines composed of shrimps, scallops, and sushi rice dressed with a sweet sauce.

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vol.8 - issue 1

CONCIERGE

GALAPAGOS FOR A CAUSE Now travelers can make a personal impact on the conservation of the Galapagos while having an extraordinary time. Lindblad Expeditions will donate US$1,000 per person towards conservation efforts for any new reservation made for sailings from August 15 to September 26, 2015.

In the Galapagos, snorkel with sea turtles, penguins, and sea lions; hike among colonies of wildlife and birds; observe rare giant tortoises in the wild, and explore the waters of the Galápagos by boat. Lindblad guests will also have the opportunity to learn how to make beautiful beads out of paper for local artisans to turn into jewelry for sale, and to attend drawing classes in the field, in the only place on earth where wild animals will calmly pose for their portrait. www.expeditions.com

Travelife with us

TRAVELIFE ONLINE Follow us on Twitter and Facebook to keep track of the TRAVELIFE team’s adventures.

Visit www.travelife.biz and follow our blog at www.travelifemagazine.com to #Travelife with us around the globe.

VISIT

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READ

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FOLLOW

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TWITTER

@TravelifeMag

INSTAGRAM #travelife PINTEREST

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OHIO’S HIDDEN GEM Nestled in the heart of Amish country, is Wooster, Ohio’s unique European town . town down foot set you as evident as soon e, cultur tic eclec of ation lomer cong A green living, old-fashioned shops and original restaurants and cafes promise an unforgettable evening.

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CONCIERGE

NEW HEIGHTS OF LUXURY Henann Lagoon Resort in Boracay opened a new wing with 102 luxury rooms, a swimming pool, and a VIP lounge. Completely different from the main building in terms of design, the new wing also offers suites with a private plunge pool on its second floor for guests who prize privacy. www.henann.com

NOMA

RELOCATES TO SYDNEY Noma, one of the world’s best restaurants, is relocating to Sydney for 10 weeks in January 2016 to share the best of Australian produce as seen through the eyes of head chef René Redzepi and his team. Noma will temporarily close in Copenhagen, Denmark to open its new waterfront home in Barangaroo on Sydney Harbour.

“I have always been attracted to the incredible diversity you find in Australia’s landscapes and ingredients because they are like no other place I’ve seen before,” said Redzepi. “Australia combines strong influences from its Indigenous people with new communities from around the world. When you mix it all together, the result is something truly inspiring. It really is the perfect place to come and learn.” www.noma.dk

A LUXURIOUS COASTAL PLAYGROUND Opening this October, The Lind Boracay is a five-star hotel located along White Beach’s Station 1. Its stylish yet quirky furnishings and sprawling gardens along the exclusive beachfront make this lifestyle hotel perfect for an active and upbeat vacation. www.thelindhotels.com

A NEW RICHMONDE Richmonde Hotel Iloilo opens its doors to travelers with spacious guest rooms and first-class amenities.

The hotel’s design reflects Ilonggo culture and the friendly personality of the locals. www.richmondehotels.com.ph

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vol.8 - issue 1

Per DTI - FTEB SPD Permit No. 10316 Series of 2015

CONCIERGE HOTEL HOPPING DANCING IN ELEGANCE The Marriot Hotel Grand Ballroom,

currently the largest ballroom in the

Philippines, is the first in the cou ntry

to use 176 programmable pillow ceiling

lights that can set the atmosphere for an intimate gathering or a boisterous party.

The ballroom houses modern art pieces

by Impy Pilapil, Robert Robles, and Tony Twigg, reflecting the merging

of Philippine culture with Marriot’s international art concept. www.marriott.com

A TWO-WAY TEA PARTY The Shangri-la Mactan Resort & Spa offers tea with delicious scones and jam from the Classic High Tea selection in the lobby lounge. There’s also a local version called the Filipino Afternoon Tea, with pure hot chocolate in a batirol, served with sweetened sticky rice, and fresh mangoes with muscovado sugar and coconut sport. www.shangri-la.com

EPIC GASTRONOMIC ADVENTURES Hotel Jen offers new buffet deals at its Latitude restaurant. There’s a special theme with fresh seafood and flavorful meats as main courses everyday, while a family brunch buffet is offered on Sundays. www.hoteljen.com

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vol.8 - issue 1

CONCIERGE

TECH CHIC

ONE STYLISH CLICK Sony’s Xperia™ M4 Aqua has a capture mode that can take vivid photos with its 13MP camera, F2.0 aperture and superior auto mode.

With its minimalist design and long

FEASTS OF JAPAN

an-eat-teppanyaki Diamond Hotel’s Yurakuen Japanese Restaurant offers an all-you-c personal chef cooks A meat. of cuts premium and with u nlimited servings of fresh seafood com on the teppanyaki table in front of guests. www.diamondhotel.

battery life, this smartphone can be used anywhere and for anything. www.sonymobile.com

RESTORING THE BODY’S

NATURAL BALANCE

Our body operates 24/7, and like a machine, it requires tuning up once in a while to get it back to its original orientation. On the surface, shooting pain on the lower back, muscle aches, and a stiff neck might be signs of excessive fatigue and stress, but on a deeper level, it is our body’s way of telling us that something is off beam that needs to be corrected immediately. While our first instinct is to have a massage to ease the pain and discomfort, it actually takes more than simple kneading and pulling to fix the problem.

At KARADA, expert therapists focus on the proper alignment of the body while restoring its natural balance by applying precise

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pressure on various points of the human body. With roots from Japan, it employs ancient techniques known for therapeutic and wellness benefits. A Japanese term that translates to “body,” KARADA is the newest body therapy center in the Philippines with branches at the 3rd level of the new Glorietta Wing in Ayala Center Makati; Greenbelt Radissons, 106 Aguirre St., Legaspi Village, Makati City; 2/F Serendra Piazza, Mckinley Parkway, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig; Greenbelt 1, Ayala Center Makati; 2/F Alabang Westgate Hub, Muntinlupa City, and 2/F Fox Square Building, 53 Connecticut St., Northeast Greenhills, San Juan. www.travelife.biz

vol.8 - issue 1

CONCIERGE FLIGHT CLUB

LOUNGING LUXURIOUSLY The new Cathay Pacific Airways lounge in Manila’s Ninoy Aquino International Airport makes passengers feel more relaxed with its generous space and warm tones.

Travelers can now enjoy Cathay Pacific’s signature Noodle Bar, which offers sumptuous dishes such as dandan mien and wonton noodle soup. www.cathaypacific.com

KOREAN AIR FLIES TO BRAZIL Korean Air’s new partnership with GOL Linhas Aéreas Inteligentes, the largest airline in Latin America, takes passengers through Sao Paulo and onwards to 16 other cities within Brazil including Rio de Janeiro, Brasilia, and Manaus.

Korean Air currently operates an A330 aircraft from Incheon South Korea to Sao Paulo Brazil three times a week. www.koreanair.com

REJUVENATING SLEEP IN HELSINKI AIRPORT The “GoSleep Sleeping Pods” in Helsinki Airport, Finavia’s newest innovation, allows passengers to rest before traveling. Travelers can enjoy a spacious seat that converts into a bed, keep luggage underneath the seat, and separate themselves from airport noise by pulling the cover up. www.finavia.com

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vol.8 - issue 1

PERIPLUS

Stylish Remakes

The Korean Table

by Violette Room Retail Price: US$ 14.95

by Taekyung Chung, Debra Samuels Retail Price: US$ 18.95

Japanese clothing company

This book comprehensively

made fresh and stylish with a

Violette Room shows how old and boring clothing can be

discusses Korean cuisine

touch of sewing, altering, and

and includes both classic

proper pairing.

and new recipes that everyone will love.

EAT, Create, DESIGN Adorable Felted Animals

Tuttle Publishing offers new books on cuisine, arts and crafts, and innovative architectures. Available in leading bookstores nationwide.

by Gakken Handmade Series Retail Price: US$ 14.95

Perfect Gift Wrapping Ideas

by Hiroe Miyaoka Retail Price US$ 15.95

This do-it-yourself book presents innovative and creative ways to transform simple objects into gifts through origami and gift-wrapping techniques.

Create miniature animals using wool and a felted needle. This book’s techniques in felting tap the imagination and creativity.

Stylish Party Dresses

Designing SpaceS

by DP Architects Retail Price: US$ 49.95

by Yoshiko Tsukiori Retail Price: US$ 16.95 Japanese designer Yoshiko

This presents various architectural styles and approaches, including outstanding designs from noted establishments such as Treetop Lofts,

Tsukiori shows different ways to assemble a look for any kind of occasion. She offers easy and elegant styles in this must-have book for

The Dubai Mall, and

young women.

Singapore Sports Hub.

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vol.8 - issue 1

CALENDAR AUGUST

UNITED STATES BLUEGRASS FESTIVAL August 13 - 15 Arkansas, United States The annual Bluegrass Festival at Eureka Springs kicks off this August 2015 with a Watermelon Social and open jam for everyone. Free watermelon will be provided.

LONDON NOTTING HILL CARNIVAL August 30 – 31 London One of the world’s biggest street parties celebrates multi-generations in dress-up competitions and parades for kids and racy costume contests for adults with electrifying DJ performances and good music. www.thenottinghillcarnival.com

SINGAPORE

SCOTLAND JEAN-ÉTIENNE LIOTARD EXHIBIT Until September 13 Edinburgh, Scotland Traveler and artist Jean-Étienne Liotard’s masterpieces are on exhibit for the first time at the National Galleries of Scotland. He’s well-known for his hyper-realistic portraits and thoughtful self-portraits of famous clients. www.nationalgalleries.org

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TREASURES FROM ASIA’S OLDEST MUSEUM Until August 16 Asian Civilisations Museum, Singapore The evolution of Buddhism is depicted through sculptures and paintings from the Indian Museum in Kolkata, the oldest museum in Asia.

It traces the past life stories of the Buddha and depicts symbols used to represent Buddhist concepts. acm.org.sg

LONDON A ROYAL WELCOME Until September 27 Buckingham Palace, London Visitors are given full-access to the State rooms and a guided tour of the gardens at the Buckingham Palace while the Royal Family are in residence in Scotland. www.royalcollection.org.uk

SEPTEMBER PHILIPPINES 26TH PHILIPPINE TRAVEL MART September 4-6 SMX Halls, Pasay City This year’s travel mart highlights the Philippines as the “Fun Capital of Asia” and promises more international and domestic trips and tours. philtoa.com

SCOTLAND Braemar Royal Highland Gathering September 5 Braemar, Scotland Held every first Saturday of September in the quaint village of Braemar, this event is a premier cultural and sporting event with highland dance performances, national costume parades, and exciting games like the caber-tossing and tug-of-war. braemargathering.org

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BAGGAGE CHECK

Romack Stracktrip Two-Wheel Rolling Tote

La Habanack Starcktrip Four-Wheel Trolley

Style

meets

FUNCTION

Starcktrip by Delsey revives chic travel

Renowned French designer Philippe Starck creates the latest Delsey collection with sleek, sophisticated and timeless luggage designs that are ergonomic and innovative.

Portock Starcktrip Document Holder

Bogotack Starcktrip Backpack

Miamick Starcktrip Muffle Pouch

Osakack Starcktrip Cabin Trolley Duffle Bag

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vol.8 - issue 1

BAGGAGE CHECK

GO BOLDLY INTO THE

WORLD

Digital luggage scale, Euroo Travel & Lifestyle

Explore the world with heavy-duty travel bags and accessories in bright colors

Red Explorer II backpack, Euroo Travel & Lifestyle

Travelit 3-way search light, flashlight, and emergency flasher, Euroo Travel & Lifestyle

Green Explorer I backpack, Euroo Travel & Lifestyle

Dark berry classic light slim pouch, Travelon

Purple signature twin pocket hobo bag, Travelon

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vol.8 - issue 1

VANITY KIT

Flawless Skin IN ALL SENSES Achieve perfection with a new beauty regimen

A GARDEN OF FRAGRANCE Crabtree & Evelyn’s Pear and Pink Magnolia Collection rejuvenates and cleanses with the sweet scent of red pear and the zesty pink magnolia. For fragrances reminiscent of England, the Somerset Meadow Collection consists of soothing and revitalizing products inspired by flowers like water lilies and white blossoms. www.crabtree-evelyn.com

HEAD TO TOE

Zenutrients’ Argan Skin Salve-ation has a blend of soothing herbal oils that clean and moisturize. This organic oil-

FRESH-FACED

based salve can be applied to hair and skin, but without the greasy feel. www.zenutrients.com.ph

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For smooth and clear skin, Shiseido’s dermatologist-tested Ibuki Multi Solution Gel reduces breakouts and tightens pores over or underneath makeup. The White Lucent All Day Brightener is a multifunctional moisturizer that heals sun damage and prevents further skin discoloration. www.shiseido.com

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vol.8 - issue 1

WHAT TO WEAR

ONE STEP

AT A TIME

Look effortlessly stylish in this season’s​ latest shoe collections Kat Fringe shoes in chestnut, SANUK

Rounder Hobo shoes in blue chambray, SANUK

DC Trase Yours:

Make Your Mark DC SHOES hosts its first-ever regional graphic design competition

DC Shoes Philippines held a light and fun art exhibit last July to showcase the top design submissions for the Trase Yours Design Competition. Revolving around the lifestyle street culture theme, the chosen pieces were successful in translating these elements and combining it with the brand’s unique design aesthetic. Judith Ann Talania, the Philippines’ grand winner took home the bragging rights as the first-ever awardee of the DC Shoes design competition as well as P35,000 in cash and P35,000 worth of gift certificates.

Talania’s winning piece also took part in the DC Shoes Southeast Asia TRASE YOURS Design Competition. Entries were submitted online and winners were chosen on August 7, 2015. www.dcshoes.com.ph

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“Flock” by Judith Ann Talania

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TRAVELIFE STYLE EXPERIENCE

PRUDENT PLANNERS

These savvy travelers explore the world on a budget

MY FAMILY AND I ALWAYS TRAVEL WITH COMFORT IN MIND, so even though I prefer to travel economy, I choose airlines that offer good food and service, and enough entertainment like Cathay Pacific.

OUR TRIP TO THE HOLY LAND WAS MEMORABLE on so many levels. We started in Egypt where we saw how a city can deteriorate through the years, and then we saw the shift in Israel, which was so “alive” compared to Egypt.

A COST-EFFECTIVE WAY TO TRAVEL is to pick cities with public transportation and attractions that are

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FOR A VACATION ON A LIMITED BUDGET, I’D GO TO BALI. I’d look for promotions or off-season airfare, book a timeshare option for accommodations, and then enjoy the beach for free.

THE BEST WAY TO FINANCIALLY PREPARE FOR A MAJOR TRIP STARTS WITH PLANNING. You don’t need a travel agent to do things for you.

You can research online, look for lower fees, ask friends for recommendations, and book everything in advance.

It also helps to set up a budget in advance.

I regret those trips where I didn’t have a budget, and then I ended up being slapped with a huge credit card bill afterwards.

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EDRIC MENDOZA Financial advisor , TV anchor and host, ANC’s Money Talks

GROOMING BY ABBY MAGLAYA. PHOTO BY BRYAN AREVALO.

FLYING ECONOMY CLASS is fun. It allows me to go places without breaking the bank.

walking distance from your hotel. My wife and I liked Lucerne because our inn was near almost every major landmark, and trains and buses were convenient.

PHOTOs BY Xxxxxxx.

I BELIEVE IN BUDGET TRAVELING. We always start planning our trips by finding good deals, packing light, and looking for promos. I’m Ilocano and part Chinese, so I tend to be very frugal.

APRIL - MAY 2015

I’M A VALUE TRAVELER. I always want comfortable accommodations during trips because I consider that time spent in my resort or hotel as part of the vacation.

STAYCATIONS CAN BE FUN. It’s now a popular option, that’s why I made sure that our home is staycation-worthy. Most of the time, we’re just happy staying home, scheduling a swim together with the boys and enjoying a special meal.

I REALLY LIKE THE SEMINYAK RESORT & SPA IN BALI, INDONESIA. It has all the amenities of a luxury resort for a fraction of the price.

OUR RECENT EXPERIENCE IN TOKYO WAS VERY PLEASANT. The food was great and the Japanese were very polite. When people treat you with respect and fondness, you feel great and that’s what stays with you.

OUR FIRST “SPLURGE” TRIP WAS TO DISNEYWORLD IN FLORIDA. There were long-haul flights, accommodations, and tickets for Disney, Universal Studios, and other parks for our family of five – plus the mandatory souvenirs. We really planned for it, so no breaking the bank happened.

THE BEST WAY TO FINANCIALLY PREPARE YOURSELF FOR A MAJOR VACATION is to regularly set aside a specific amount of amount of money months before. Then ask family and friends who have been there for advice based on first-hand experiences.

HAIR AND MAKE-UP BY ABBY MAGLAYA. PHOTO BY BRYAN AREVALO.

ROSE FES FAUSTO Author and financial advisor

SPECIAL ADVERTISING FEATURE

EVERY BODY

is Beautiful UP PILATES STUDIO welcomes Kyria Sabin of Fletcher Pilates International

U

rbanites have gotten used to the frenetic and stressful lifestyle of the city. The demand to have an established workout program that addresses one’s health and wellness needs has become an important part of everyday life.

At UP PILATES STUDIO, Pilates practitioners develop a better physique by strengthening the core, relieving stress and tension in the body, and improving muscle flexibility. The 60-minute sessions relieve overall pain and reduce injury, but most importantly, pilates increases overall concentration, creates more joy in relationships and allows practitioners to enjoy a better quality of life.

12 Fletcher Pilates® Principles that focus precision, control, breath, oppositional energy and rhythm. These principles emphasize the quality of movement that results in better posture, tone, health, and energy without the strain or fatigue of some forms of exercise.

The studio practices Fletcher Pilates®, an organic, movement-based approach developed by Ron Fletcher, a 20-year student and protégé of Joseph and Clara Pilates. Fletcher Pilates® follows unique standing and centering cues which sets up body alignment. This is followed by the

The event starts with a five-day Advance Intensive workshop for Pilates teachers and finishes with The Fletcher Experience, a three-hour session open to anyone who is interested in experiencing Fletcher Pilates.

Besides being introduced to Fletcher Pilates, participants will be taught the

Brenda Lim, Fletcher Pilates Faculty member, will be presenting an educational event from January 27-31, 2016 entitled “Every Body is Beautiful,” based on Ron Fletcher’s 1978 book. The event, to be held at the Joya Lofts and Towers in Rockwell Center, Makati, will be lead by a guest teacher from the US, Kyria Sabin, Director of Fletcher Pilates International.

“percussive breathing” technique whilst learning the correct biomechanics in stretching and strengthening their bodies.

Fletcher pilates teachers from around the world are invited to participate in workshops devoted to continuing education under the guidance of Kyria Sabin, who is also a Duke University graduate, licensed massage therapist, and founder of Body Works Pilates in Tucson, Arizona. Teachers will learn new information about the latest developments in Pilates.

For more information on registration and other details visit Fletcher Pilates International at www.fletcherpilates.com. n

UP PILATES STUDIO Unit R-11 3/F Allegro Center, 2284 Pasong Tamo Ext., Makati City Tel. (63)(2) 551-7002 | (63) 9154895589 www.up-pilatesstudio.com

TRAVELIFE STYLE eXPeRieNCe

TO CELEBRATE

Good Writing The fourth Guernsey Literary Festival takes place from September 16 to 20, 2015 in St. Peter’s Port, Guernsey’s capital, bringing together major literary figures from around the world for creative talks, workshops, and film screenings. Some activities will be held at Hauteville House, where Victor Hugo penned “Les Misérables.” www.guernseyliteraryfestival.com

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TRAVELIFE STYLE EXPERIENCE

Southern Food

for

THOUGHT

Charleston in North Carolina was recently voted the most charming city in America and one of the most romantic cities in the world for 2015. The Chow Down Charleston Food Tours takes visitors on a culinary adventure of hidden gems and local favorites.

PHOTOs BY XXXXXXX.

www.chow-downcharleston.com

TRAVELIFE STYLE EXPERIENCE

Nature

TRIPPING

T

he 26,000-acre Palo Duro Canyon State Park in the United States, also known as the “Grand Canyon of Texas,” is a favorite recreation and camping area, full of picturesque hiking and biking trails. Over 500,000 visitors come to this park every year. www.traveltex.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING FEATURE

A TASTE OF BORACAY’S

Laidback Luxury THE DISTRICT BORACAY brings an irresistible blend of sophistication and tranquility

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chic island experience best sums up a stay at The District Boracay, one of Boracay’s newest boutique resorts nestled on a prime beachfront location that has successfully combined sleek facilities, spectacular views, and unrivaled service all within close proximity to the livelier side of Station 2.

Aside from its striking design, the resort boasts of 48 minimally-styled rooms that are equipped with luxurious amenities, an outdoor lap pool with Jacuzzi, a bar and events roof deck, a conference facility, serviced pool and beach loungers, and a beautiful beach that is literally right outside its doorstep. It has 2 restaurants – Star Lounge which is famous for serving the Best Brunch Buffet in Boracay and the luxurious Meduse shishas, and Caruso Ristorante Italiano which has raised the bar in an authentic Italian dining experience on the beach! By the end of 2015, the resort is set to open new facilities – a spa and a gym.

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A two-time (2014 and 2015) TripAdvisor’s Travellers Choice and Certificate of Excellence awardee, the resort is perfect for families, honeymooners, and for every modern traveler looking for the ultimate comfort in the perfect location. Standard rate for an overnight stay starts at PhP 12,900, inclusive of roundtrip airport transfers and breakfast/brunch buffet.

As a special treat, The District Boracay is bringing back its 3-day/2-night packages, for as low as PhP 7,710 per person, which will take every guest’s Boracay adventure, family bonding, romantic interlude, and happy hours to the next level with additional perks.

For bookings and inquiries, call (02) 2345917, (02) 2349058, or email reservations@ thedistrictboracay.com. For more information about the resort, please visit www.thedistrictboracay.com or follow its official social networking accounts: Facebook (facebook.com/TheDistrictBoracay), Twitter (@DistrictBoracay) and Instagram (@thedistrictboracay). n

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THE DISTRICT BORACAY Station 2, Barangay Balabag, Boracay Island, Malay, Aklan Tel. (63)(36) 234-9058 234-5917 www.thedistrictboracay.com

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TRAVELIFE STYLE EXPERIENCE

LIGHTS OVER

SYDNEY V

isitors to Sydney’s Darling Harbour recently enjoyed a spectacular laser show with water jets shooting 30 meters into the air and digital fireworks illuminating the sky with spirals, lasers and dancing flames. This was reportedly the world’s largest festival of light and music. www.vividsydney.com

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JUNE-JULY 2015

RENTAL LOCATIONS: CENTRAL OFFICE: 2326 Chino Roces Ave. Extension.

Makati City +632 8920274/ +632 8876651 +63 922-8229647/ +63 922-8229650 SOMERSET OLYMPIA Makati Ave. Urdaneta Vill.

Makati City +63 922-8229651 NAIA TERMINAL 1,2,3 Pasay City +63 922-8229652 +63 922-8229655 CRIMSON RESORT & SPA Mactan Island, Lapu-lapu City +63 (933) 3031777 QUEST HOTEL CEBU Archbishop Reyes Ave. Cebu City +63 (933) 3031777 CEBU BRANCH Bridges Town Square Commercial Complex Mandaue City +63 (032) 2362606 +63 (032) 2686228 WIDUS RESORT & CASINO Freeport Zone, Clark, Pampanga +63 (045) 4991000

PRODUCTS & SERVICES : • Self-drive Rental • Corporate Lease • Long Term Lease • Chauffer Driven Rental • Limousine Service • Hotel/ Airport Transfer

• Pick-up/ Drop-Off • Shuttle Service • Fleet Management Solution • Special Events Transport Needs

www.hertzphilippines.com / www.hertz.com

Destinations Volume 8

Issue 1

TEA ON NATURE’S BED Known for using solar energy in their African safaristyle tents, Madulkelle Tea & Eco Lodge is a lush tea plantation at the end a long winding road from Kandy, Sri Lanka’s cultural capital. It offers a quintessential Sri Lankan tea experience amidst spectacular views of the Knuckles Mountain Range, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2010.

Bohol London Koh Samui China Sri Lanka Chile Vancouver Tasmania

Mexico Marrakech Spain SabiSabi MalaMala Iceland Palawan Nueva Vizcaya

Photography BRYAN AREVALO Model CHRISTINA ANN CHUSUEY Text CEIA YLAGAN MIKA FAJARDO Styling JOANA ZANDRA CARRASCO MIKA FAJARDO Hair and makeup PEPOY TANCINCO Special thanks to Henann Resorts Alona Beach, Bohol

Moroa Jumpsuit, SeekTheUniq.com.

Beautiful Bounties BOHOL’S

With its heritage churches and natural wonders, this coastal paradise enchants at first visit

Bohol has long attracted visitors with its beautiful beaches and major attractions: the famous Chocolate Hills and the world’s smallest primate, the tarsier. Then a 7.2 magnitude earthquake struck in 2013, damaging infrastructure and affecting local businesses.

Tourism dwindled for a while thereafter, but Bohol is quietly regaining its spot as one of the country’s most sought after travel destinations.

In particular, Bohol’s Panglao Island is gaining attention for its excellent resort accommodations along a serene coastal escape.

Panglao Island’s most popular destination is Alona Beach, named after Alona Alegre, a Filipina star in the 1970s who starred in a film shot on the island’s pale sandy shores. The locals were so enamored by her creamywhite complexion that they named their beach after her. The movie star may have long been forgotten, but Alona Beach’s appeal continues to draw in beach lovers and sun-worshippers.

SACRED PLACES The neoclassical crucifix-shaped Santa Monica Church in Albuquerque, Bohol has a portico and a sequence of arches that distinguish it from other churches. It has two altars and several pillars made from large tree trunks that line the aisles, as well as an elegantly crafted ceiling designed by Ray Francia.

Connected to the church’s main structure is a two-level convent housing religious antiques.

White dress and vest, Vero Moda.

HENANN RESORTS ALONA BEACH, BOHOL Bohol’s latest luxury resort along Panglao Island’s Alona Beach has quickly attracted visitors from around the world. This 6.5 hectare property boasts of over 400 modern rooms, suites and villas, landscaped pools, a spa, a convention center, and seven restaurants that serve local and international cuisine. Alona Beach’s stunning beachfront rivals other wellknown islands in the Philippines, but without a throng of revelers, making it an ideal, tranquil tropical getaway.

Orange skirt, Josie Natori, Rustans Dept. Store; aquamarine necklace.

SeekTheUniq.com.

THE EMBODIMENT OF

Leisure and Luxury HENANN RESORT ALONA BEACH, BOHOL rises up as the perfect getaway in Panglao Island

S

ituated across the sandy shores of Alona Beach and located just 40 minutes away from Tagbilaran Airport, HENANN RESORT ALONA BEACH, BOHOL is a convenient and comfortable place to stay for those seeking to explore the sights of Bohol and enjoy the clear waters of the beach.

With over 400 rooms in its 6.5-hectare property, Henann Resort Alona Beach caters to the needs and desires of different guests. The deluxe room can accommodate two to three people and has an outdoor balcony that gives vacationers an opportunity to sunbathe without leaving their room. The family room is ideal for bigger groups as it has a master’s bedroom and a secondary bedroom for guests who want to stay together in one room. Henann Resort’s distinct and best features are the pool access rooms along the perimeter of the resort’s expansive main swimming pool.

These rooms have an outdoor veranda that allows guests to lounge by their room, while giving them direct and exclusive access to the pools and pool bars. vol.8 - issue 1

The pool bars, located at various spots within the resort’s three huge swimming pools, are great for a refreshing drink under the sun or a post-swim break. The pool bars serve an extensive list of alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails and shakes.

Coral Café, Henann Resort Alona Beach’s main dining outlet, serves sumptuous international fare in an all-day buffet that satisfies any craving. Opening soon is Christina’s, a fine dining restaurant that specializes in Western cuisine. Enjoy prime cuts of meat and fresh seafood alongside a well-curated wine selection. Also opening is Sea Breeze Beach Club, an all-day dining buffet with interactive buffet stations that changes themes every day.

Addressing the influx of tourists to Bohol, Henann Resort Alona Beach’s Convention Center is a three-storey, world-class facility that accommodates over 1,000 guests. A grand ballroom and several function rooms are fully equipped for various social and corporate events.

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Finally, complete a luxurious and rejuvenating stay in Henann Resort Alona Beach with Kai Spa’s assortment of body massages, scrubs, and wraps in its Southeast Asian Zen-inspired treatment rooms.

Henann Resort Alona Beach, Bohol creates a relaxing tropical paradise with its luxury accommodations, mouthwatering dining options, pampering packages, and beach lifestyle offerings. n

HENANN RESORT ALONA BEACH, BOHOL Beachfront, Alona Beach, Tawala, Panglao Island, Bohol Tel. (63)(38) 5029141 to 44 www.henann.com

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STEWARDS OF NATURE Mahogany Forest is a two-kilometer road lined with mahogany trees planted in the 1950s. The local government of Bohol developed the area into a lush forest to address the problem of erosion in the area.

The man-made forest was a collective effort, evidence of the strong sense of community of Boholeùos. The dense leaves and thick tree trunks create a serene tableau of man’s stewardship of nature.

EXPLORE BOHOL

RISINGRUINS FROM THE

PATRICIA CENDAĂ‘A discovers the different facets of quiet and unshakeable Bohol

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B

ohol may be the exception to the saying “the higher you rise, the harder you fall.” After Bohol endured a 7.2 magnitude earthquake – the strongest in 25 years – and Super Typhoon Haiyan back-to-back in 2013, tourism here should have declined to a level that would ordinarily have taken years to restore.

But in spite of the damages still evident in its many popular attractions, including in the Chocolate Hills and in its many heritage churches, visitors from around the country and from all over the world continue to pour in. Consequently, Bohol is being restored and reconstructed, and it is rebuilding itself into a stronger, more vibrant leisure destination.

Special thanks to Henann Group of Resorts and Wow Bohol Tours.

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THE HILLS ARE ALIVE

MAN-MADE MASTERPIECE

The viewing deck of the famed Chocolate Hills in Carmen clearly revealed the damage brought about by the 2013 earthquake that shook Bohol and surrounding areas. Panting from climbing over 200 steps to reach the top, I quickly recovered my breath upon reaching the summit and and marveled at the landscape before me. The hills stretched on forever, and some seemed so close that I could see the grass on the hilltops. Trees and shadows shrouded the dark green sloping silhouettes peeking from behind the impressive array of hills in front of us.

Meanwhile, the Mahogany Forest, just several kilometers from Chocolate Hills, is a stretch of serene landscape miraculously spared by the earthquake in 2013. The lush canopy of trees is a masterpiece of nature with sunlight piercing through the thick and dark leaves of the trees that seem to reach sky-high.

Only the occasional sounds of passing cars permeate its silence.

A part of the viewing deck is still cordoned off, with scattered debris on the ground and earth spilling out from under the cracked pavement. But these are now part of the adventure of discovering Bohol post-2013, and still magnificent views more than made up for the difficulties of getting there.

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Panting from climbing to the top, I quickly recovered my breath upon reaching the summit to marvel at the Chocolate Hills before me. The hills stretched on forever, and some seemed so close that I could see the grass on the hilltops.

This man-made forest, which stands amidst the naturally-grown and rich forests of Loboc and Bilar, was part of a government initiative in 1958 to prevent the frequent landslides that occurred because of the widespread slash-and-burn farming techniques then. Moreover, the mahogany tree is not endemic to either Bohol or the Philippines, but it was chosen because of its ability to absorb water well and to grow fast. “Many of the trees in the forest just grew from the original ones that were planted,� says Nathaniel, our local tour guide.

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ADDITIONAL TEXTS BY MIKA FAJARDO AND CEIA YLAGAN. BEACH PHOTO BY ROMMEL NATANAUAN.

EXPLORE BOHOL

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BOHOL This other-worldly forest, so dense and thick and bereft of native plants and animals that cannot thrive on the exotic mahogany tree, is truly a unique tourist destination in Bohol and a favorite amongst photographers.

EYES WIDE OPEN Then there’s the inevitable meeting with the tarsier, Bohol’s most famous primate.

Shy and fragile, these endangered animals are also extremely smart and sensitive, and they can become aggressive when threatened. Many conservation areas are now being developed in the province to protect and boost the number of tarsiers in Bohol.

Fortunately, most of Bohol’s tarsiers weren’t harmed during the catastrophic tremor. Locals say that just before the earthquake hit, many of the tarsiers in the Philippine Tarsier Sanctuary were noticeably restless, jumping from tree to tree in broad daylight, as if they knew that something big was going to happen.

After the earthquake, most of them were discovered still hiding away in their secret spots in the sanctuary.

The tarsiers were smaller than my hand, and seeing them huddled under the leaves made me suddenly feel protective of them.

As I aimed my camera at one of them, it opened its eyes and stared back at me, as if weary of having to pose for another photograph. When it was apparent that it had succeeded in instilling enough guilt in me, the tarsier turned its head away and grasped tighter onto the tree branch.

The lush canopy of trees at the Mahogany Forest is a masterpiece of nature, with sunlight piercing through the thick and dark leaves of the trees that seem to reach sky-high.

BOHOL’S MOST PRECIOUS PRIMATE

PHOTO BY JULIA WIMMERLIN.

The tarsier is a small nocturnal primate with large ears and a long tail used for balancing.

Their main habitat is the forest, favoring the roots of plants such as bamboo, and feeding on insects for nourishment. Hunting and illegal logging destroys their natural habitat, causing their numbers to dwindle. The local government and conservation groups are continuously initiating programs to protect tarsiers and their natural habitat.

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EXPLORE BOHOL

HISTORY OF THE CHOCOLATE HILLS There are many theories and legends on how these hills came to be. Nathaniel, our local guide from Wow Bohol Tours, told us that the Chocolate Hills originated from weathered formations of marine limestone with a layer of clay underneath.

However, unlike the rest of the green hills sprawled across the rice fields we passed on the way, the Chocolate Hills have an almost-uniform, cone-shape and limestone base that makes it difficult to cultivate trees and shrubbery.

Legend is that two giants fought and hurled stones at each other until the rocks they threw formed the Chocolate Hills.

BOHOL DELICACIES Don’t go home without bringing back some calamay, a simple yet well-loved delicacy made from rice, coconut milk, sugar, and peanuts. It is typically packaged in a coconut shell or in little plastic tubs. The best version is supposedly from Jagna, Bohol.

Peanut kisses are delicate local sweets shaped into small mounds shaped like the Chocolate Hills. These are cookies made of peanuts and egg, very crispy yet melts in the mouth with peanutty goodness.

Boholano tortas are different from the traditional omelette. These are fluffy, cake-like baked goodies with generous amounts of cheese and sugar on top, best paired with coffee or hot chocolate.

Buad is a local dish made of dried fish commonly sold in wet markets. It is an acquired taste, and is best paired with vinegar.

ABOUT TAGBILARAN Tagbilaran City is also known as the “City of Friendship” due to the pact struck between Datu Sikatuna and Miguel Lopez de Legazpi, when the Spaniards first came to the shores of Bohol in 1565. This treaty of friendship is honored with a memorial at the Blood Compact Site built to commemorate this peaceful meeting.

WHAT TO SEE • The President Carlos P. Garcia Memorial Park is an 11-hectare field of grass and trees with a life-sized bronze monument created by national artist Napoleon Abueva.

• The home of President Garcia, a beloved native of Bohol, has been converted into a museum. The Bohol Museum contains the family’s relics and furniture as well as a collection of shells found along Bohol’s beaches.

• If you’d like to see one of Bohol’s less touristy beaches, head for the Kaingit Beach, conveniently located along the coast of Tagbilaran.

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BOHOL

Bike zipping at Chocolate Hills Adventure Park

Baclayon Church

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Organic garden flower salad, Bohol Bee Farm

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EXPLORE BOHOL

AN ISLAND PARADISE Finally, there’s the latest jewel in Bohol’s crown, just a half-hour’s drive from Tagbilaran City, the capital. Panglao Island is now the most popular of Bohol’s surrounding islands, with the famous Alona Beach as its centerpiece. Considered by many as “Little Boracay” because of its strip of resorts, restaurants, bars and souvenir shops, it is nevertheless comparatively more serene and significantly less crowded, allowing a full appreciation of the surroundings.

Amidst this, the Henann Resort Alona Beach, Bohol was the perfect location to settle in, with its breathtaking beachfront view and relaxing resort amenities. This contemporary resort offers accommodations for everyone, from couples on honeymoon and families with young children, to business travelers keen on squeezing in some leisure time.

As a community, Bohol has historically been welcoming of foreign visitors, beginning with the “Sandugo,” a friendship forged in blood between Bohol chieftain Datu Sikatuna and Spanish explorer Miguel Lopez de Legazpi in 1565 that is considered the first official act of friendship between the Spaniards and the Filipinos. Now, several hundred years later, Boholanos are still upholding this tradition vis-à-vis modern tourists.

As it protects its natural and man-made bounties, Bohol also wears proudly the mementos of the past and faces the future, bravely embracing the progress brought about by a thriving tourism industry. n

BIG PLANS FOR BOHOL Barely three months old, Henann Resort Alona Beach, BOHOL boasts of over 400 rooms, suites, and villas, three massive swimming pools with pool bars, three restaurants, a spa, and a 1,000-person capacity convention center on a 6.5-hectare property, in anticipation of the opening of the new international airport on Panglao Island and the corresponding influx of tourists. www.henann.com

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BOHOL

WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT BOHOL? Bohol is underrated. To me, it has everything.

Tagbilaran is a great city with good nightlife, cinemas, and lots of shopping options. Panglao Island is for those seeking beautiful beaches, amazing dive locations, or some relaxation without the usual crowds that comes with established destinations. As for those wanting adventure or culture, don’t miss seeing the tarsier, the famous Chocolate Hills, the different centuries-old churches, Rajah Sikatuna National Park, and Lamanok Island.

Pink dress by Jun escario.

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE SPOTS IN BOHOL? I enjoy the Loboc River Cruise, a one-hour cruise that takes you through a river with lush forests on both sides. It’s a great way to experience the Bohol countryside. I also like going to Bohol Bee Farm as it’s quaint, cozy, and charming.

BEST OF BOHOL

WHAT BOHOL DELICACY OR FOOD DO YOU RECOMMEND? For those who are going to Bohol for the first time, I recommend the peanut kisses. They’re delicious and perfect as souvenirs, so almost everyone who visits Bohol leaves with one. Also have some broas. They have broas all over the Philippines, but the ones in Bohol literally melt in your mouth and are great with coffee or hot chocolate at any time of the day.

WHAT ACTIVITY DO YOU BEST ENJOY WHEN IN BOHOL? Just relaxing, whether it’s hanging out at the beach, going church-hopping, diving, hiking, spelunking, or enjoying food. I value the tranquility Bohol gives me when I have free time with my family.

WHICH IS YOUR FAVORITE SPOT IN HENANN RESORT ALONA BEACH? The pool by the beach because its color against the white sands gives me some tranquility. I dabble in photography, and the pool is a great place to take pictures. I’m also proud of our lobby, as we were very involved in its design. We felt it was important that we give our guests in Bohol something new and fresh upon arrival. I enjoy its bright and open atmosphere, as well as its feeling of warmth and elegance.

Check out Christina’s Instagram account @tinchusuey to see more of her food, travel, and shopping adventures.

PHOTOs BY pamela del prado.

CHRISTINA ANN CHUSUEY, of Henann Group of Resorts, shares her Bohol favorites

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT BOHOL? Late May or early June. Although this is peak season for tourists, Bohol is relatively less exposed than Boracay and other popular tourist spots. December is also a great time to visit as Bohol is as lively during Christmas as any other Philippine city. There are far less tourists here than in the summer months – just enough so you won’t get lonely.

COMMITMENTS IN BLOOD The SANDUGO FESTIVAL is a month-long festival in Tagbilaran City that celebrates the blood compact between Spanish explorer Miguel Lopez de Legazpi and Datu Sikatuna, which took place on March 16, 1565. Since 1989, this historical event, hailed as the first recorded treaty between Filipinos and other nations, has been re-enacted every month of July by specially chosen festival participants.

This year, thousands of locals and tourists gathered along the roads, waiting for the street dance participants from local schools and government offices who gaily showed off their colorful costumes and mardi gras dance moves.

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Belle Mama dress with belt, Rustans Dept. Store

NAVIGATE : YOURSELF

B oh o l

WHERE TO STAY

Bohol is composed of a group of islands in central Visayas, popular for its beaches and diving spots. It is also famous for the Chocolate Hills, and for being the home of the tarsier, one of the world’s smallest primates. It was also the venue for the first official friendship agreement between Filipinos and Spaniards in 1565.

A devastating 7.2 magnitude earthquake struck the Visayas in 2013. However, despite the human casualties and the damages this tragedy wrought, Bohol has continued to attract tourists locally and around the globe.

When to go The best time to visit Bohol is from December until April for its warm and sunny weather.

How to get there flies three times daily to Bohol, via Tagbilaran Airport.

Flight schedules are: Manila to Tagbilaran 7:30 am 11:35 am 1:40 pm Tagbilaran to Manila 9:35 am 1:40 pm 3:45 pm www.airasia.com

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Located right on the coast of Panglao Island, Henann Resort Alona Beach, BOHOL offers over 400 modern and spacious rooms and suites. This fullservice beachfront resort hotel has seven dining outlets, a spa, business centers, and a convention center. Guests at the resort also have easy access to 120 meters of Alona Beach’s powdery white sands, making it the perfect spot to relax in and appreciate the beauty of the island.

The hotel’s pool access rooms allow guests to head directly for the resort’s swimming pools right outside their door. Meanwhile, the villas and cabanas have private dipping pools and a balcony that opens up to a breathtaking view of Alona Beach. Kai Spa offers rejuvenating beauty and wellness treatments and special pampering packages.

The Henann Group of Resorts is well known for its sumptuous buffets and outstanding dining outlets, and Henann Resort Alona Beach is no exception. Coral Café and Sea Breeze Beach Club serve a comprehensive all-day dining buffet, while Christina’s offers fine dining options alongside an impressive wine selection. The Lobby Lounge features light snacks and bar specials, specially crafted cocktails, and an extensive wine and beer list that’s best enjoyed while listening to music and live performances. www.henann.com

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DEFY 123 Back in Action at The Bellevue Resort The third edition of DEFY 123 Triathlon spurs action and beautiful support for Bikes for the Philippines at the second-to-none facilities of The Bellevue Resort in Bohol.

Host Akiko Thompson, BH&R Assistant Marketing and Communication Manager Eunice Lodripas, defy123 3rd placer male open category Michael Acas

Timothy Joseph Isla of Tranko, Akiko Thompson, Mark Albert Almanzor of Tranko

BHotel Managing Director Ryan Chan and 2015 defy123 50 years old & above male category 1st placer Josef Gueta

Defy Organizer Teddy Tong, Janice Tanada of Salomon, Actress Ellen Adarna, winner ceepo bike frame mmanuel Francisco, Jerry Santos, Akiko Thompson

J APAN

Panglao Mayor Leonila Montero, B Hotel Managing Director Ryan Chan and The Bellevue Resort Manager Rommel Gonzales

2013 & 2014 Defy 123 champion Michael Murphy, B Hotel Managing Director Ryan Chan, 2015 Defy 123 Male open category champion Mitch Robins

Host Akiko Thompson, 2015 Defy 123 male open category 1st placer Mitch Robins, Janice Tanada Salomon Brand Manager

Delightful Memories beyond Expectation

The Government of Japan has substantially relaxed the issuance of

Multiple Entry Visa for Filipino Nationals as of September 30, 2014.

In addition, on November 20, 2014, a simpli�ied application

www.getreadytogojapan.com

procedure was introduced for issuance of single tourism visas for nationals of the Philippines who participate in package tours that are handled by registered travel agencies.

Escape to Japan We offer : - Group Departure Tour - Different Japan Land Arrangement Packages - Airfare Tickets - Japan Day Tours - Airport Transfer - Japan Rail Pass (JR Pass) - Assist in Japan Visa Processing - Passport Processing - Internet LTE SIM Card - Travel Insurance

ATTIC TOURS PHILS.,INC.

Address : Unit 203 Coko Bldg. 1, Patio Madrigal Compound, 2550 Roxas Blvd, Pasay City, Manila Tel : 02-556-6301 to 05 Email : (atticmnl01@attictours.asia) (attictraders01@attictours.asia) Web : http://www.attictours.asia/

EXPLORE BOHOL

THINGS TO DO IN BOHOL Bohol Coco Farm (www.facebook. com/boholcfarm) is a quaint and homey escape for travelers looking for a laidback provincial vibe. The farm offers cozy rooms and a restaurant that serves original dishes such as pancit buko, the farm’s vegetarian take on the Filipino favorite, pancit canton. Other local favorites include the eggplant fries, a delicious and nutritious alternative to French fries, and the refreshing camote tops iced tea. The farm also offers walking tours and coconut-inspired venues for fun such as the Coco Sky Walk, the Coco Hanging Bridge, and the Giant Coco Swings that scream fun and adventure.

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Pose in paradise.

The Yoga Barn Green Café (www.yogabarn-panglao.com) on Panglao Island offers multi-level yoga classes, meditation, and guided walks in their garden. The café serves a seasonal menu made from fresh organic produce harvested from their garden and from local farmers.

PHOTO courtesy of qi retreats.

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Go coco loco.

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Get buzzing.

Bohol Bee Farm is perfect for adventure-seekers and nature lovers who wish to experience a sustainable and healthy lifestyle, even for several days. The farm offers comfortable accommodations, as well as lessons in weaving, crafting, and sewing, diving and other water activities, organic farming, and spa treatments. The farm’s The Buzzz Café along Alona Beach also whips up a delicious selection of organic dishes. (www.boholbeefarm.com)

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FIND INNER PEACE & SELF-AWARENESS.

Qi Retreats (www.qiretreats.com) has created wellness and adventure programs that focuses on enjoying Bohol’s nature and marine life through diving courses, detoxifying spa and massage treatments, yoga sessions, and healthy organic meals. Try standup paddleboard yoga for a different healthy experience.

A FESTIVAL CALENDAR The Sandugo Festival commemorates the

ART IN THE SKY Cebuano artists Ray Francia and Canuto Avila have left their imprints on many of Bohol and Cebu’s heritage churches. Considered pillars of Visayan architectural design for their exemplary work in the frescoes and ceilings of the churches in Bohol, their masterpieces stand out because of the vibrancy of the colors and the liveliness of the designs, as well as the intricate details that enhance the beauty of the churches.

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signing of a treaty of friendship between Spaniards and Filipinos. Like a true Filipino fiesta, it has colorful parades, entertaining street dancing performances, a reenactment of the treaty signing, a beauty pageant, exotic costumes, and lively spirit all throughout.

The municipality of Loboc celebrates the Bolibongkingking Festival every May 23 and 24 with a presentation of classic folklore dances that feature the “gambaw,” an traditional local instrument used by devotees in their performance in front of the town’s patron saint, Our Lady of Guadalupe.

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LOVE FOUND IN AMORITA One-Of Collection’s Panglao Island beach resort is a cliffside tropical treasure

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tanding over a limestone cliff in Panglao Island, AMORITA RESORT is a luxurious boutique resort that has unprecedented views of Bohol Sea and the sandy shores of Alona Beach. Just an hour’s flight from Metro Manila and 40 minutes away from Tagbilaran Airport, Amorita Resort has a quiet atmosphere and an exclusive location that makes it the ideal venue for relaxation.

Embodying the natural treasures of the Central Visayas province – limestone, shimmering blue waters, stretches of white sand, and lush tracts of greenery - the resort offers a variety of guest rooms best described as organic modern, integrating key aspects of Panglao Island’s beautiful natural surroundings and the idyllic charm of the property.

Guests find delight in the lush garden view featured from windows of their Deluxe Garden Room. Amorita Resort’s Suites offers a luxurious retreat with its elegant and spacious living areas and private balconies that provide an exclusive feature of manicured green landscape. Couples and families looking for a private escape may indulge in the villas private plunge pools and patios, with a choice of the resort’s gardens or the ever-changing colors of the Bohol Sea. Each room highlights a perfect balance of exclusivity, luxury, and relaxation.

Amorita Resort further distinguishes itself by marrying the sublime resort features with world-class service, personalized touches, and pleasant little surprises. Passionate to provide memorable experiences to all its guests, Amorita Resort staff calls guests by their first names, nightly place thoughtful handwritten notes and home-baked cookies inside rooms and take time to create a lasting and caring impression.

Dining takes on new heights at Amorita Resort’s in-house restaurant, Saffron Restaurant.

Chef Raphael Ongchiong’s sumptuous reinterpretation of Boholano heritage cuisine and wide range of Continental and Asian food favorites feature only the best and freshest ingredients. Guests may enjoy these delicious dishes with the view of the Bohol Sea from the infinity pool near Saffron Restaurant or at the cliffside deck overlooking the Alona Beach.

Amorita Resort also offers various activities for guests who wish to go an adventure. The resort has an in-house dive center operated by Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) certified Sea Explorers Philippines, free kayaking and stand-up paddle boarding, and bike rentals.

For a relaxing and healing treat, the Sea Tree Spa offers a selection of massage treatments using locally sourced natural elements that soother the body, mind, and soul.

Amorita Resort truly is a serene enclave for relaxation and infinite delight.

The Sea Tree Spa uses locally sourced natural ingredients that soothe body, mind, and soulwith its Filipino massage therapies and beauty treatments. Amorita Resort is truly a great place to unwind and enjoy the natural beauty of Bohol.

AMORITA RESORT

1 Ester A. Lim Drive, Barangay Tawala, Alona Beach, Panglao Island, Bohol Tel (63)(38) 5029002 | (63) 9177264526 www.amoritaresort.com

PHOTOs BY Xxxxxxx.

TRAVEL UNITED KINGDOM

UNITED KINGDOM

MURDER on a

LONDON EXPRESS CHRISTINE CUNANAN helps solve a mystery on the historic BRITISH PULLMAN

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ictoria Station is cavernous and perpetually busy, and we were running late, so I was anxious about making it through the crowds to our train on time, departing at 1120 AM sharp.

This was not just any train, after all.

We were on a one-of-a-kind voyage on the British Pullman, a private luxury train consisting of 11 immaculately restored vintage carriages that would take us through England’s countryside the old-fashioned way, with white-gloved waiters serving champagne and a sixcourse gourmet lunch as we gazed at the passing scenery.

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Apart from taking guests back in time to the glorious age of travel, this train is also a favorite venue for milestone birthdays and anniversaries, and for special events like wedding proposals and celebrations.

It makes scheduled departures every month, and we were lucky enough to find ourselves in London on the day of one of these, which is why I booked a trip. We were celebrating nothing in particular – save for, as always, life itself – but I thought that this would be an excellent and most interesting way to enjoy the picturesque county of Kent.

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PICTURE PRETTY Fortunately, the train presented itself rather beautifully so that we did not have to strain to find it. Painted in pale yellow cream and chocolate brown, with brass hardware polished shiny as the buttons on a Buckingham Palace guard’s uniform, it stood out immediately on Platform 1 amidst the sea of tired grey commuter trains weaving noisily in and out of the station. Next to each carriage was a smiling attendant smartly attired in the uniform of old.

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The mystery on the British Pullman is a work in progress, with each passenger making it as real as he or she wants it to be. Luckily for us, we had a carriage full of enthusiastic murder theorists intent on solving it and having a wonderful time.

The British Pullman has its own lounge at one end of the station so it is not just a matter of boarding the train. After simple check-in procedures and a cup of tea here, we were escorted to our carriage, the Audrey.

ABOUT THE AUDREY The Audrey carriage of the British Pullman is one of the most beautiful, with 12 different marquetry panels of landscape scenes. She made her debut as a train carriage on New Year’s Day 1933 as part of the world’s first all-electric Pullman train. She has spent 40 years in service and traveled over 4.3 million kilometers, during which time she was used regularly by members of the British Royal Family.

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TRAIN WITH A PAST Each carriage of the British Pullman is decorated differently, and each has a storied past, if not a glorious pedigree. Ours was right at the top in terms of both. It was damaged in the air raids of World War II and it once formed part of another historic train called the Brighton Belle. In its years of service, it had the pleasure of transporting Queen Elizabeth II, Prince Philip, and Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, before welcoming us more ordinary mortals as passengers on that humid morning in June.

Inside, the Audrey was a craftsman’s dream.

Exotic art deco marquetry and veneered panels formed backdrops for elegant salons with velvet armchairs and tables with starched linen and gleaming silverware, framed by art deco light fixtures.

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We entered the carriage and walked past these lovely intimate tables to a private salon in the middle. Comfortably seating four but set for two in our case, it was like a perfectly formed cocoon of a jewel box with gilded doors that could shut the world out if we wanted to.

PARTNERS IN CRIME Within conversational distance from us were a lively group of executives who had taken the entire adjacent car and several couples. One of the couples looked like they were on their first date – and what an amazing first date idea this is, if you’re planning to impress – while the others were clearly celebrating special moments in their lives.

And yet another pair came in the form of two gentlemen from the same office who gave me the impression that they had taken the day off to do something wonderful and completely refreshing.

I only know this because they had taken the time to say hello to everyone in a very congenial way, clearly gearing up for the big task at hand.

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TRAVEL UNITED KINGDOM

GUESTS ON A MISSION Yes, we were not just out for a fine meal on a palace on wheels, we had a mystery to solve. Even before we left Victoria Station, an aristocrat with a fiancée, a mistress and a greedy butler would be murdered in the posh neighborhood of Kensington, and we were challenged to find the guilty party before the train rolled back into London and in between copious glasses of champagne.

This was part of the fun, giving this rail journey a reason for being apart from offering a nostalgic luxury experience.

Over the course of five hours, a series of personalities in period costumes sauntered, danced, glided or stomped their way through the carriages; each offered a short introduction, a primer on the murder, and

a vehement denial of his or her culpability.

A nurse and the aristocrat’s son even gave us their two pounds’ worth on the likely murderer – naming no one they liked, obviously.

the impoverished nurse, especially as the aristocrat’s former lover swanned about in pearls and silks declaring she was far too wealthy to fall in love with him, or to murder him, just for money.

Then we were encouraged to interrogate – or at least to make conversation – with each one, spontaneity being the fuel for this adventure-in-the-making. The story on each train journey is a work in progress, with each passenger making the experience as real as he or she wants it to be. Luckily for us, we had a carriage full of enthusiastic murder theorists intent on solving the mystery and having a wonderful time.

In the spirit of the drama unfolding before us, I then asked aloud, “Are you really as rich as you say you are?”

All of us thought the murder was likely to be about the money, so our instincts zoomed in on the butler and

The lady instantly put on a horrified face.

Then without missing a beat, she remarked in a very upper-class cutting accent, causing us all to break into laughter: “What a terribly rude question.”

In the end, it was the butler who did it, and the announcement was we espied London in the distance. And, for some reason, everyone was happy but none of us were terribly surprised. n

THE BELMOND BRITISH PULLMAN www.belmond.com

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TRAVELIFE REVIEW THAILAND

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THAILAND

Peace, Happiness & Good Health CHRISTINE CUNANAN spends six days at one of Thailand’s top detox resorts

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oh Samui may be a famous party town, but it certainly was getting ready for an early night when I flew in from Hong Kong just before sunset one Sunday and checked into the Absolute Sanctuary health resort, five minutes away from the airport.

The quiet might have been unnerving to visitors intent on getting a tan by day and painting the town red by night, but it was all well and good for me, as I’d come here mainly for rest and relaxation, and to experience one of the most serious detox programs in the world.

RESORT WITH A MISSION

The multi-awarded Absolute Sanctuary has become a by-word among fervent believers in detox therapy for its no-nonsense cleansing programs, its effective cocktail of juices and raw foods, and its variety of Pilates and yoga classes to complement the food and treatments.

Otherwise, life at this spa is confined to a modest property – modest, as far as luxury Thai resorts go, that is – with a busy treatment center and a Moroccan-inspired restaurant where most diners will probably be feasting on fruits and leaves, if they are eating at all.

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In fact, it’s so focused on its cleansing experiences that you won’t even see the beach on your stay unless you actually make a point of doing so. You’ve got to be up early for the 7 AM power walk with a guide who accompanies you there and back on foot, or else you take the shuttle to a designated area for a day in the sand. As for the sea – you are in one of Asia’s top beach destinations, after all – the resort is inland so you will only see a sliver of it from the top suites.

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“Almost everyone here has arrived with a mission: to detox, to lose weight, or to get a physical makeover.”

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BENEFITS OF DETOX • Safe and fast weight loss • Clearer and more radiant skin • Improved blood circulation • Improved energy levels • Healthier digestion • Brighter eyes

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GREAT EXPECTATIONS

The hub of activity is a large swimming pool with an adjacent bar that serves raw juices all day from 7 AM to 9 PM. This pool is really lovely especially at the end of the day, so that even I was enticed to do a few languid laps in the hopes of burning some calories.

But few guests have booked a stay here to holiday in a typical Thai beach resort.

Most are intent on getting on the fast track to good health, and they have done their due diligence, including searching online for phrases like “best detox” via Google, before settling on Absolute Serenity.

Meanwhile, the juice bar is Absolute Sanctuary’s main lifeline and social epicenter as most guests are on restricted diets that only allow coconut juice, raw juices and shots of wheatgrass mixed with enzymes and nutrients. So this is where everyone congregates to make small talk and to compare notes on kilos lost – because many do lose weight here.

So almost everyone here has arrived with a mission: to detox, to lose weight, or to get a physical makeover. For these purposes, this spa perhaps offers the most effective and best value packages within the international spa circuit.

This resort is not a pampering spa nor an especially luxurious haven, in spite of its name, but it’s succeeded in making its guests happy. The rooms are spacious and comfortable, with positively palatial bathrooms, and the service is warm and friendly. Moreover, the entire resort is designed with enough pretty and exotic touches – shades of Northern Africa and the Middle East, actually – to make you think of anywhere else but Thailand. www.travelife.biz

“I had two weeks of holiday,” revealed one lady from Jersey, in the English Channel.

“So instead of just spending it drinking by some beach, I thought I’d do something positive with my life for a change and lose weight. I’ve never felt better in my life.”

Meanwhile, another lady, this time from Dubai, was ecstatic with the kilos she’d already lost and the glow she had acquired from two weeks of raw food and exercise.

She said, “I shed four kilos in the first week alone, and my clothes fit so much better.”

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“My favorite meals included a delicious salad of watermelon cubes and mint leaves in a tangy dressing, and a healthy version of pad thai with bean sprouts instead of noodles.�

TRAVELIFE REVIEW THAILAND

ABSOLUTE SANCTUARY DETOX PROGRAMS ULTIMATE DETOX A powerful and effective program consisting of a structured fasting and colon hydrotherapy course, suited for those who wish to experience instant weight loss.

LIVING FOODS DETOX This program focuses on the myriad health benefits of eating raw, ‘living’ foods such as increased energy levels, improved complexion and weight loss. This program is suited for those who want to experience mild fasting combined with fresh, ‘raw food’ meals.

VEGETARIAN DETOX This is a standard ‘internal cleansing’ program with light, healthy vegetarian cuisine carefully prepared with organic ingredients. This program is suited for those who are new to detoxifying or who don’t wish to do total fasting.

A DAILY ROUTINE As for me, I’d pointedly gone solo on this holiday and signed up for the six-day detox program coupled with a rather ambitious Pilates boot camp.

My short-course meant no cooked food for five days. So upon waking up, I sauntered over to the pool bar for a shot of wheatgrass juice and a cleansing raw drink, downed in one shot as the sun shined down on me on a lounge chair by the pool. Then it was off for a consultation with Janelle Castle, an Australian glowing with good health and humor.

Together we plotted a personalized program that involved a daily Pilates session, good intentions to join the daily beach walk, and as many Thai massages as I could fit in – plus several exotic or esoteric treatments like Indian head massages and magnesium foot baths. I was up for anything if the results were clear skin, a better metabolism and a toned physique.

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Interestingly, the days literally flew by, although I never left the resort, opened a book, or turned on the television. I didn’t make it to all my Pilates classes either, as I just decided to sit in bed with the French windows open so that the sea breeze came in, on some mornings. This was probably part of the detox experience as well.

FOOD I CAN’T FORGET Twice a day, too, I walked over to the restaurant to choose a set of raw vegetables to munch on from a comprehensive menu of creativelyorchestrated uncooked dishes. I thought I would quickly tire of the food, but on Day 5 I was still on my diet and loving it.

By then I already had my firm favorites, including a delicious salad of watermelon cubes and mint leaves in a tangy dressing, and a healthy version of pad thai with bean sprouts instead of noodles.

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THAILAND

Many resorts have latched onto the health trend and began offering salads and vegan dishes on their menus. However, few have been able to do so with the success and seriousness of Absolute Sanctuary. Every dish I tasted here was appetizing enough to make me look forward to my next meal.

The rest of the time, I was happy to actually just stay in one place. I observed my fellow guests diligently working out with private trainers in the gym and doing laps by the pool; or joining in a healthy Thai curry cooking class. I waved happily as they embarked on their power walks, sunglasses, visors, bottled water and all; and jumped into the evening shuttles for a trip to the night market.

As for me, I was in bed by 9 PM, having had very little for dinner and virtually no contact with the outside world. And I never slept better in my life. n

ABSOLUTE SANCTUARY www.absolutesanctuary.com

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THE LIST TASMANIA

TASMANIA

10

REASONS

TO VISIT TASMANIA NOW

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asmania has long been an exotic destination that many travelers consider rather difficult to reach, in spite of its relative proximity to Asia. However, if you like nature and fancy an exhilarating combination of exciting experiences and good food, this rugged island of exceptional beauty should be on your bucket list. TRAVELIFE gives you the best new ideas to include for a holiday in Tasmania in 2015.

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Nature immersion at the Pumphouse Point

At the edge of Tasmania’s Wilderness World Heritage area, jutting 250 meters out from the shoreline of iconic Lake St Clair, is the Pumphouse building, an art deco throwback to pioneering hydro-electric days gone by. Opening early in January, the Pumphouse Point will be a complete boutique wilderness retreat where guests can walk, paddle, explore and enjoy the spectacular forests and lake. www.pumphousepoint.com

THE LIST TASMANIA

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Daredevil biking at Hollybank

Just outside Launceston sits Hollybank, a parcel of perfect Tasmanian wilderness, criss-crossed with brand new mountain bike tracks. With five cracking tracks for all abilities from absolute beginners through to highly-advanced adventurers – riders will barrel through creek crossings, over rock slabs and even up a timber wall. www.facebook.com/hollybankmountainbikepark

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Explore the coast by boat

Take an epic journey around the Tasmanian coast on the Lady Eugenie, a 23-meter luxury yacht that offers the new Wineglass Bay Sail Walk over a period four or six days. This cruise offers a wonderful itinerary that includes exploring the Bay, Maria Island and Tasman Island. www.wineglassbaysailwalk.com.au

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Learn to fish

Fly fishing in Tasmania is considered among the best in the world, whether you are a first-timer or a seasoned pro.

Appropriately, a pair of passionate fly fishers have just opened Driftwater, a stunning fishing lodge in Northern Tasmania, where guests can fish the Highland lakes in handcrafted timber drift boats, or simply enjoy walking, cycling or golf. www.driftwater.com.au

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THE LIST TASMANIA

TASMANIA’S GLORIOUS FOOD Tasmania now offers a vibrant dining scene. TRAVELIFE shortlists the best new foodie destinations on the island.

Ethos Food Precinct Ethos has created a mini food empire out of a 19th century building and its adjacent neighbors. Visitors can now enjoy a Vita frozen yogurt bar with premium gourmet toppings, a self-serve salad smorgasbord and sandwich deli, a providore, new cocktail bar and a Japanese grill. www.ethoseatdrink.com Kiss A Fish Cookery School Local cooking teacher and food writer Roz MacAllan shares her love of fresh food a group or via private lessons, enabling tourists to learn some new recipes and eat well at the same time.

Classes are held in a well-appointed commercial grade kitchen and all the food is heartily enjoyed after class. www.kissafishcookeryschool.com.au Bangor Wine & Oyster Shed The family-run Bangor Wine & Oyster Shed is only 45 minutes away from Hobart, right beside the vineyard, overlooking the sea where the oysters are harvested daily. Here you will experience the best of Tasmania, including its wonderful views, wine and fresh seafood. www.bangorshed.com.au Small Fry Promising a ‘touch of the irreverent, Small Fry is many things including big plates for dinner, small plates for snacking with a drink and coffee, and sweet treats for in-between. Don’t leave without trying one of their famous specialty doughnuts like the salted caramel doughnut with caramelized banana jam. www.facebook.com/smallfryhobart

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Experience golf with color

Only recently opened, Ratho Farm, an hour north of Hobart in historic Bothwell, is home to Australia’s oldest golf course. You can stay in former convict barns and stables or in the classic highland homestead, and learn about the colourful history of previous farm guests.

Bushrangers, 100-year-old gardeners, golfing royalty and one of England’s best known artists are among the notables who have stayed there. And while you’re there, visit nearby attractions like the Nant Distillery, Lake St. Clair and the Waddamana Hydro-power Museum. www.rathofarm.com

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DIY explorations

The Overland Track is one of Tasmania’s iconic, must-do activities. However, not everyone wants to join an organized group to share the walk, and it is precisely for this purpose that Tasmanian Expeditions has developed a new self-guided Overland Track itinerary for walkers who prefer to travel without a group and yet still enjoy having all the planning, food and logistics arranged in advance. Walkers receive a full briefing upon arrival in Launceston and then pick up food and other necessary logistics to head out and discover the World Heritage wilderness on their own pace. www.tasmanianexpeditions.com.au

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THE LIST TASMANIA

7

Walk with history

The new Stanley Heritage Walk makes use of the walker’s own smart phone or tablet to provide a comprehensive guide of the trail that also gives a behind-the-scenes look at Stanley’s rich heritage. As you proceed on your hour-long meander through spectacular scenery, you’ll learn about a treasured fishing village, the birthplace of the first Tasmanian prime minister, and a town full of incredible characters. www.stanleyheritagewalk.com.au

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The luxurious side of eco-tourism

The recently-opened Thalia Haven is quickly becoming a top attraction in Tasmania for upmarket environment lovers. Set overlooking Great Oyster Bay, the eco-friendly tenberth house is made from local stone, incorporating unique design perks such as an incredible outdoor bath with taps creeping out from a Huon Pine branch. The house comes stocked with a complimentary local pantry and a five kilometer private stretch of beach. www.thaliahaven.com.au

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Shutterbug Walkabouts new photography tours

Visitors can maximize their Tasmania experience by joining a Shutterbug Walkabouts photography tour with awardwinning photographer Roy Veith and his local history buff wife Coreena. Roy is up to speed on all the cameras out there and shares his extensive knowledge at a relaxed pace. They also run shore trips for cruise passengers and general sightseeing tours. www.shutterbugwalkabouts.com.au n

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FESTIVALS NORTHERN LUZON

18 indigenous groups live in peaceful

MANY TRIBES TEDDY PELAEZ captures Nueva Vizcaya’s celebration of diversity

Founded in 1839, Nueva Vizcaya’s colorful festivities showcase the twists and turns that the province has endured while paying respect to local culture and giving thanks to the land’s bountiful blessings amid calamities.

Each of the 15 municipalities display colorful décor and showcase their contemporary renditions of ethnic

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PHOTOs BY TEDDY PELAEZ.

A TALE OF

coexistence on the steep mountains and rolling hills of Nueva Vizcaya. These tribes gather every third week of May to celebrate the Ammungan Festival. The festival’s name comes from “ammungan,” a word from the local Gaddang tribe dialect that means “gathering.”

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NOTHERN LUZON

dances. The performances are beautiful reflections of the local way of life, and their traditional beliefs and practices.

Tribal games are revived in the “Ragragsak ti sangka ilyan,” where traditional games such as sunay, kadang kadang, and palo-sebo are played, bringing back fond childhood memories of a laid back provincial life.

The week-long celebration includes the Sky Lantern and Kite Festival, and the much-awaited “Paddek Ken Saniweng Iti Daldalan” streetdancing competition. However, the festival’s highlight is the Grand Ammungan Float Parade showcasing Nueva Vizcaya’s main attractions and local products. The Ammungan Festival closes with a beautiful fireworks display. n vol.8 - issue 1

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JOURNAL CHINA

THE HOUSE THAT

Porcelain Built An impressive collection of porcelain embedded onto a house creates a breathtaking attraction in China

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PHOTOs BY Xxxxxxx.

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PHOTOs BY Xchristine cunanan. text by ceia ylagan.

CHINA

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t the center of the port town of Tianjin in China, a French-inspired building catches the attention of passersby. The sun glints off the surface of thousands of porcelain vases lined along its outer wall, while four Chinese dragons stand guard. Aptly called the “Porcelain House,” it is owned by Zhang Lianzhi, a devoted collector of antiques and fine items.

The 3,000-square-meter, century-old house is covered from top to bottom with porcelain ware – from vases to bowls to plates to figurines. Bits of broken porcelain pieces have been put together seamlessly to look like brand new pieces. The artful and meticulously designed museum took Zhang four years to complete and cost an estimated two billion yuan.

The Porcelain House reportedly used 400 million porcelain pieces, 16,000 pieces of ancient china, 300 white marble carvings, and 20 tons of natural crystals.

njin was an For almost 600 years, Tia ff point for porcelain important por t and drop-o nsported to the made in southe rn China tra pieces we re nor the rn regions. Damaged in Tianjin, giving rise supposedl y secretly buried als. to its popularity with the loc

A true labor of love, this hou se showcases Zhang’s determ ination in sourcing porcelain pieces that carry much history , with pieces coming from the Tang, Song, Yuan, and Qing dynasties, sourced from all over China.

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SRI LANKA

Magic AMONG THE

PHOTOs BY christine cunanan.

MOUNTAINS

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CHRISTINE CUNANAN falls in love with the simple charms of a tea plantation in Sri Lanka

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he sleepy tea factory town of Madulkelle is not an easy destination, even for a hardy traveler like myself. Five hours into a bumpy ride out of Colombo, full of swerves and near collisions, we were still chugging up the hills of Kandy, Sri Lanka’s second largest city, at about the same pace as a worn bicycle.

Just reaching Kandy, the last outpost of civilization until our final destination, was enough to try anyone’s patience. But from here it was still a good 90-minute drive, mostly on narrow and breathlessly steep roads amidst truly amazing foliage and vistas that occasionally offered glimpses of the gold pot at the end of our long journey to the Madulkelle Tea and Eco Lodge, 1000 meters above sea level and right in the midst of a tea plantation in the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Knuckles mountain range.

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“The next day, we all woke to exhilarating views of tea plantations and the mountain ranges beyond.

We found complete peace and serenity on that almost perfect morning.”

Unfortunately, we arrived on a night best described as a perfect storm. We’d left Kandy in daylight but night soon set in and pouring rains and fog slowed us down further so that not a few of my companions began to wonder aloud why we had come at all to this place in the middle of absolutely nowhere.

By the time we eventually drove past the gates and up to the main colonial-style lodge, we were hungry and exhausted from a worrying journey in pitch darkness, and the palpable tension in the air could have easily sparked a bonfire.

“This place is absolutely beautiful, and tomorrow you’ll find that the drive was worth it,” I said, to calm their uneasiness, and also mine. No one could see further than a meter outside our vehicle, after all,

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SRI LANKA

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so everyone’s doubts were valid. It rightly seemed that we had traveled all day to the epicenter of nothing, and even I was starting to regret booking this lodge.

To further complicate logistics and encourage short tempers, it was a steep walk down a slippery ridge upon arrival, to sturdy canvas tents that were to be our homes for the next four days.

THE RIDE WAS WORTH IT The next day, though, we all woke to exhilarating views of tea plantations and mountain ranges beyond. The sun had made the tops of the trees golden, and finding complete peace and serenity on that almost perfect morning brought the smiles back to the faces of my companions. This is what we had traveled to what seemed like the ends of the earth for.

Fearing the cold, I’d been observing this wondrous world from the windows of my African safari-style tent, which was really more of a villa with windows all around. It had wooden floors, a king-sized bed, a large soaking tub, vintage

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furniture, and tasteful decor that almost seemed more Hollywood than Sri Lanka; but everything was set up in a very natural way that I found myself remembering the movie “Out of Africa,” half-expecting Robert Redford to enter in his safari clothes.

And just like in Africa, which is not for travelers short on endurance or meek for adventure, I realized this was not a moment for hesitation. I quickly unzipped the flaps and walked out onto the terrace to bask in the cool breeze.

A MEAL WITH A VIEW Then and there I decided that a setting like this required a room service breakfast. It was unthinkable to leave this tent in all its glory, with views I could find no words for. Fortunately, the staff at Madulkelle proved cooperative regarding this sudden inspiration, even if this required a precarious balancing act with a tray of warm food and hot drinks down the mountain.

It wasn’t long before a waiter arrived with tea, croissants, fruits and the ubiquitous curd and

SRI LANKA

treacle that had so far made its appearance at every meal in Sri Lanka. That day, and on every morning after that, I set this breakfast tray up on a table on my terrace, so that each time I enjoyed both a gustatory and a visual feast.

IT’S ALL IN THE DETAILS This is not to say that the normal dining experience at Madulkelle is less stellar, for everything about this lodge is truly unique. The main building, done up in the style of a tea planter’s house, is cleverly filled with arts and crafts, making it a photographer’s delight.

In the lobby, for instance, is a massive pool table enhanced on both sides by a deceivingly realistic trompe l’oeil of antique bookshelves that recall safari days in Kenya or Tanzania. Meanwhile, the restaurant on the lower level also includes comfortable seating for drinks, a very high workstation for computers, and a mix of long and round tables for dining that encourages socializing among guests, all aware of and eager to share their special experiences at Madulkelle.

And from up high, three giant portraits of Sri Lankan ladies in colorful sari stare

down at diners, providing both a beautiful backdrop to the delicious meals of organic produce and local cuisine, and a convenient conversation piece.

We found it difficult to tear ourselves away from Madulkelle, and especially to think about leaving this sanctuary to go sightseeing amidst the chaos of Kandy, so we tried to limit our forays out as much as possible.

It was wonderful to be soaking in the atmosphere of a stylish lodge on a tea plantation among mountains that so far had been little touched by civilization.

Breakfast via room service

One day, however, we decided to take a trip to the nearby tea factory, to observe the local ladies at work, processing Sri Lanka’s most famous export.

It was an eight-kilometer drive and a short visit but even just an hour was too long away from the peace we had found. On the ride back to Madulkelle, none of us said much; but when we finally sat down to a vegetable curry lunch on a long table next to the verandah with the French doors thrown wide open, we all felt that familiar happiness of finally being once again back home. n www.travelife.biz

MADULKELLE TEA AND ECO LODGE www.madulkelle.com

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THE HUNGRY TRAVELER

Delicious Surprises in an

EXOTIC CITY

PHOTOs BY JEROME VELASCO.

JEROME VELASCO recalls a dramatic evening at Borago in Chile

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CHILE

Borago is the NOMA of Chile.

Rodolfo Guzman, an alumnus of the legendary restaurant Mugaritz in Spain, is perhaps the most internationallyrecognized Chilean chef.

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must confess I didn’t know much about Chilean food when I headed to the capital of Santiago last year with my mother and sisters on a long trip that included a cruise to Antarctica.

I was familiar with Chilean wine, of course; as for food, Chilean sea bass was about the extent of my knowledge. Chilean sea bass, by the way, is technically not even sea bass; it’s really the commercial name given to a Patagonian toothfish that lives in the deep waters in the southern oceans near and around Antarctica.

So while some Chilean sea bass may indeed come from Chilean territorial waters, not all these come from Chile.

THE JOYS OF THE CHILEAN SEA BASS Nevertheless, I have enjoyed Chilean seabass over the years, but I stopped eating it when stocks became perilously low because of overfishing.

Fortunately, fishing methods have since improved and this is no longer an endangered species.

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This fish is coveted by many chefs because it is receptive to a wide variety of seasonings and preparations. It has a great, rich buttery flavor and it’s moist, firm, smooth and tender in texture, with large flakes. You can literally feel and taste its high omega 3 oil content – which is good for the health conscious – and it remains dewy even after cooking.

NOT QUITE EXTRAORDINARY Meanwhile, Chilean food is in a category all its own. It has neither the romance and glamour of the cuisine of its neighbor, Argentina, nor the complexity and exotic Japanese influences bestowed upon the contemporary dishes of its other neighbor, Peru. Argentina has that cult of meat, and Peru is so fluent in Asian and Andean flavors.

Chilean food does not have the “wild melting pot” of culture that fed the development of Brazilian cuisine, either. If those are your preferences, Chile doesn’t stand a chance in the gastronomy department, although it’s really beginning to come into its own. www.travelife.biz

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For now, I think it’s safe to say you will not return from a trip to Chile raving about their cuisine. It is still very much in a transformational stage. The food isn’t mediocre by any stretch, but it seems to lack creativity, especially given the bounty available.

SURPRISE, SURPRISE Or so I thought, until I discovered Borago, which is basically the NOMA of Chile. It is undoubtedly the country’s top eatery, and certainly the most creative, ranking #5 on San Pellegrino’s list of best restaurants in Latin America (and #42 in the list of the world’s best restaurants) and only one of two from Chile to have made it to the list. Rodolfo Guzman, Borago’s chef, an alumnus of the legendary restaurant Mugaritz in San Sebastian, Spain, is perhaps the most internationally recognized Chilean chef today.

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Borago basically offers an exhaustive exploration of what can be done with native cuisine and Chilean products. The chef here is on a mission, with complete dedication to using ingredients that are 100% Chilean. But it actually goes further than this, as a meal here will take you back in time to when natives used to cook with hot stones and smoke with native woods.

ADVENTURE ON A PLATE The chefs of Borago undertake endless trips around the country, foraging for the most amazing ingredients to put on a plate. Many of these were completely alien to me, including rare mushrooms from the most remote forests of Chile to seafood from the iciest Patagonian waters in the south. Occasionally, they even serve dishes with ingredients from Easter Island, guaranteeing that Borago’s menu truly encapsulates Chile’s wildest corners.

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Chef Rodolfo is a humble man, and I enjoyed meeting him. He even took me on a personal tour of his kitchen.

Interestingly, unlike so many kitchens of great restaurants that I have visited over the years, Borago’s kitchen was unusually quiet. There was no screaming and no flaring tempers; just whispers, focus, passion and concentration. But there was an unmistakable buzz, which I loved. Like Noma, the Borago chefs serve the dishes themselves, and this includes Guzman; and each one is therefore able to thoroughly explain each dish including techniques and inspiration.

AN EMPTY RESTAURANT AND A DRAMATIC START Our group arrived on time for our 8PM reservation. We were greeted politely and ushered to a table in the middle of the main dining room, in this sleek, sophisticated but casual restaurant in the upscale Vitacura district of Santiago.

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Borago’s kitchen was unusually quiet. There was no screaming and no flaring tempers; just whispers, focus, passion and concentration – and an unmistakable buzz I loved.

The place was nearly empty, as dining in this town, like in the rest of Latin America, is characteristically late. It was actually a great feeling to have Borago to ourselves, at least for the first half hour, which was about the time people started making a beeline for this restaurant.

CALL OF THE WILD As for the eight-course Endemic tasting menu itself, it reflected the flavors, smells and textures of the Chilean wilderness, and it was definitely bold from the start. We were handed five appetizers, including pork skins and a melon jelly with golden liqueur. Each appetizer was served atop rocks, wooden blocks or tin pails, and warm bread was served with a mild “soil” pesto made of dehydrated herbs and squid ink.

On the evening we dined at Borago, there were lots of lumps of dirt and rocks on our tasting menu, that were actually pieces of smoked fish or squid ink dust. These were intended to reflect the fertile soil of the central valley or the black rocks from Chile’s many active volcanoes.

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FRUITS OF NATURE The tasting menu was offered with a wine pairing, but I opted for the more interesting juice pairing, as this was the first time I had encountered such a combination. Many of the juices were from wild herbs I had never heard of, foraged from deep inside Chile. Others were infusions of evergreen shrubs or of herbs from salt marshes, while the rest were made from berries scoured from the Andes.

These were all served in appropriate wine glasses, so that the juices resembled fine wine in looks and color. All of them were very drinkable, and many seemed to have intersecting flavors with the food. The sommelier did a splendid job with these, as these juices added another dimension to the dishes.

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE EVENING There is not much point in discussing Borago’s individual dishes as these change almost daily.

However, for this evening, we had their newly foraged, unusual variety of purslane, served on the outer edge of a rock plate that was cooked straight from a grill, with yoghurt.

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We also enjoyed a dish called “cremoso de isla negra,” which turned out to be a squid ink cracker dotted with goat cheese sitting atop sea asparagus. It was a delight to look at.

Later we were served huevos a rescoldo, a perfectly slow cooked egg covered in ash, reportedly from some rare chicken that lays blue eggs that are silkier, smoother and richer than normal ones.

Borago also had an outstanding veal dish that night, cooked in its own milk for 40 hours. However, the standout dish of the evening for me was a congrio frito, which is basically a crispy fried fish fillet. At Borago, these came coated in ash, with a perfect seaweed dashi broth poured over it, resulting in a wonderful savory entreé.

SWEET ENDINGS

The end was equally dramatic and delicious. The chef ran from the kitchen with a plate containing several little pieces of mint meringue – which were aptly named frozen glaciers – still smoking from the infusion of liquid nitrogen. We were instructed to pop these into our mouths immediately, and not to even waste time taking photos (I did so anyway). These melted in my mouth and then turned my breath cold and white until smoke rolled out of my nostrils like a fire breathing dragon. Hilarious and certainly memorable.

Dining at Borago is so unique because you are actually able to sample food that cannot be found anywhere else in the world.

With its sophisticated and creative cuisine, Borago is typical of the new Santiago. It is certainly the ultimate out-of-the-box dining experience in Chile, if not in Latin America. n

The medley of desserts that night were inventive, starting off with something called the “rica rica de Atacama.” This was a cookie, served on top of rica rica-flavored ice cream and cracked to look like the parched earth of the Atacama dessert, but with a .soft and chewy texture. Rica rica is a strongly aromatic herb used as a local homeopathic remedy for an upset stomach. It is very citrusy, with an herbal hit that is almost like lemon verbena.

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BORAGO www.borago.cl

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TRIGGER HAPPY

VANCOUVER

THE ROAD TO

TOFINO DONDI JOSEPH drives to a quaint coastal town on Vancouver Island

Comments about Torino ranged from “beautiful, cozy, and romantic” to “better-dress-warm-because-it’s-always-windy.”

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PHOTOs BY Xdondi joseph.

hales, bears, wolves, bald eagles, and orcas in a pristine temperate island environment of old growth forests, sweeping beaches, snow-capped mountains, marshes and fish-filled lakes. A few years back, I saw a French documentary on the wilderness of Vancouver Island, and I immediately put this island on my travel list. Since I had more immediate opportunities, I jumped on flights whenever I could, following my suitcase around like a loyal puppy and completely forgetting about this island.

This year, finally, was the year of Vancouver (for business and pleasure) – and of course, Vancouver Island (for sheer pleasure). The wilderness has always been my poison, and yes, I do miss the days when places like Boracay, Puerto Galera, and Banaue were so remote and pristine that you could do whatever you felt like on the white sand or on pine needles without worrying about someone stepping on your face.

I knew Vancouver Island would be a bit too cold for that kind of buff stuff though,

but I was perfectly fine with that. There is nothing wrong with a rug in front of a cozy fireplace for an adventurous tickle and cuddle.

DOING MY HOMEWORK So I began my research. I typed “Vancouver Island” and within seconds of pressing the “enter” button, a gazillion options jumped screaming from the screen.

Within minutes I had a severe case of “analysis-paralysis” and so I retreated, tail between my legs, more confused than educated about it.

TRIGGER HAPPY VANCOUVER

A typical view on while on a bear watching expedition in the sound

A NORTH AMERICAN DISCOVERY

Tofino is on a relatively narrow peninsula in the central west coast of Vancouver Island. It fronts the Pacific Ocean and the Clayoquot Sou nd, and is composed of many unspoiled islands, islets, and inlets on the north and east. It is part of the Clayoquot UNESCO Reserve and the commu nity borders the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, undoubtedly one of the best national parks in the world.

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Still the bottom line was that I was going to rent a car and drive from Vancouver to Vancouver island – a road trip of 285 kilometers which would take me six to eight hours, including stops to take photographs and eat. I had four full days, which seemed long but in reality it was hardly enough time to explore an island with an area of over 12,400 square kilometers.

Vancouver Island is huge, and its wildest parts are accessible only if you have time, and only during the right season, with local guides who know how to deal with bears and cougars. Sadly, I was early for the midyear grizzly bear-watching safaris and three weeks early for the bird-watching season.

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WELCOME DISCOVERY I discovered Tofino after talking to people who lived in Vancouver, some of whom I had chatted up in stores and bars. Their comments ranged from “beautiful, cozy, and romantic” to “better-dress-warmbecause- it’s-always-windy.” Interestingly, “Tofino has its own Chefs Guild.” So it came to pass that I ended up in the little seaside town of Tofino, instead of meaninglessly driving all over the island chasing time and appreciating nothing.

Getting to the island was easy: it was a 30-minute drive from my hotel in Metrotown, Vancouver to the Twawwassen Terminal, where I loaded the car onto a ferry for a quiet 2.5 hour crossing to Nanaimo.

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A sculpture by Joe Martin, Nephew of Moses, and one of the most renowned First Nation sculptors in Canada

Aerial tours of Clayoquot Sound are a brilliant options for sightseeing

The 207-kilometer drive from Nanaimo to Tofino was spectacular: narrow, winding roads were flanked by lakes or the seashore and snow-streaked tree-covered mountains that rose precipitously to the clouds.

Clayoquot Sound

TRIGGER HAPPY VANCOUVER

A LOCAL DAVID VS. GOLIATH Chief Moses Martin achieved notoriety in 1984 when he led a group of 1,000 tribesmen and other volunteers in a movement to stop a major logging company from clearcutting the primal forests of Meares Island.

It was the first time that a local tribe worked together with nonnatives for a common purpose: the successful protection of what was still a near pristine environment with a very rich history of civilization, culture, and art. Thirty years later, the relationship between the Tla-o-qui-aht tribe and nonnative Canadians is stronger than ever, in what has been a profound story of redemption and reconciliation.

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On the island, the 207-kilometer drive from Nanaimo to Tofino was spectacular: narrow, winding roads were flanked by lakes or the seashore and snow-streaked tree-covered mountains that rose precipitously to the clouds.

The drive had ample opportunities to explore or picnic in small coves, lakes or parks, or even to pull over for a badly needed 20-minute snooze (the result of jetlag and insipid coffee). It was an unusually clear and mild 15째C with blue skies, and it was good to be on the road again in such a beautiful place as Vancouver Island.

All the comments I heard about Tofino were correct: (1) it is a culinary center with superb restaurants; (2) it is cozy, romantic, and peaceful, especially off-season; (3) it has an interesting and thriving art scene; and (4) it was happily cold and windy enough to be thoroughly enjoyable for a guy from the sweltering tropics.

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IDYLLIC HAVEN I booked a one-bedroom suite (with a fireplace, of course) at the Cobblewood Guest House & Bird Sanctuary (www.tofinovacation.com), a five-minute walk from the windswept cove of Cox Beach and a 30-minute walk into the bush through to the other side of the peninsula.

We spent a wonderful evening with owner Ken Sadler shooting the breeze over several bottles of excellent BC wine and a home-cooked dinner.

Cobblewood is also a five-minute drive into downtown Tofino, and within 20 to 60 kilometers from more reserves, beaches, and other small towns. It was perfect and quiet.

We wined, dined, and hiked to our hearts content, enjoying the quiet tranquility of the town and its seashore and forest trails.

To satisfy our wilderness lust, we booked a custom black bear- and whale-watching cruise

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with Clayoquot Wild Tours, which recommended by Ken. Our guide, company owner Moses Martin, was once the chief of the Tla-o-qui-aht, one of the two major historic tribes on the island.

Ken felt it would give us a deeper perspective to be with Chief Moses, who could talk to us about the culture and history of his people, and we did spend hours in conversation.

BLACK BEAUTY On a beautiful clear morning, we touched raw nature: a beach-foraging black bear that was literally 10 meters or less away, wily minks, and numerous mallards, gulls, and raptors.

We watched the black bear for over an hour, as it made its way across the beach, lifting stones with its powerful paws in search of fish and crustaceans. Sadly, we only had the briefest glimpse of two grey whales, but all in all, it was a wellspent serene morning in the thrall of the wild. Clayoquot Sound is amazing in its unspoiled natural beauty.

KEEPING HISTORY ALIVE Sensing our interest, Chief Moses stopped at the original 5,000-year-old settlement of his tribe on Meares Island, where he was born and also where he lived until he moved to the mainland.

From a peak population of over 30,000, less than 1,100 members of his tribe now remain – the result of the disease and wars that began when the island was first colonized in the late 1700s. Socio-cultural advocates like Chief Moses led their tribe to keep their history, traditions, and families alive and in harmony with progress and with the environment.

Unfortunately, theirs is not a happy history, but it is one of greatness, thence of great sadness, and now – perhaps in a pace still too slow – of rebuilding. n

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THE OUTER REACHES OF THE

FINAL FRONTIER GABBY MALVAR ticks off Onuk Island from his Palawan bucket list

I slumbered on a swinging hammock under a covered pavilion that is part of an austere wooden complex. Floorboards connect similarly standing structures elevated by spindly stilts over a sandy tongue protruding from an islet. And there I was, completely surrounded by seawater – a 360-degree world of sun, sand, and surf – on Onuk Island, one of the 30 or so islands that make up Balabac in the southwestern portion of Palawan. It’s a blissful escape with a profile that changes constantly, depending on the time of day and the rise and fall of the tides.

PHOTOs BY Gabby malvar.

This is its main draw. The sand and the water change color, shifting and evolving constantly, providing a dynamic visual treat throughout the day. Everything falls under the different shades of green, blue, and yellow. Nothing is completely pure, pretty much like life itself.

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PALAWAN

PARADISE UNCOVERED This part of Palawan is less prominent than its prestigious counterparts in the North like El Nido, Coron, or Sabang; yet it is no less spectacular. The long sandy powdery white stretch in San Vicente and the limestone karsts that shoot out to the sky in the Calamianes are noticeably absent but the place is not diminished one bit.

Onuk Island is hard to reach. Travelling here entails a six hour commute by bus or van from the provincial capital Puerto Princesa to the southern city of Rio Tuba, followed by another four hours by boat to Balabac island. The last leg is completed in less than an hour in a much smaller pumpboat. I consider the prospects of development and the influx of crowds.

There are no sites for a major airport.

The droves could be kept away by the inconvenience.

It also prompted the question, “Where is this place?” If Palawan is the final frontier, then what more of Onuk Island, one of its remotest offerings?

CORDON SANITAIRE Access to the island owned by the mayor – whose permission I had to obtain – is getting more difficult. The local government unit is trying to limit the number of visitors to give the ecosystem

The ever-changing hues are the main draw. The sand and the water shift and evolve constantly, providing a dynamic visual treat throughout the day.

This is a different proposition altogether.

Malaysia and Tawi-Tawi are hidden in the curvature of the horizon while the Balabac mountain range make up the backdrop on the opposite side.

There is no shortage of things to preoccupy the visitor. The waters are rich with marine life, and lobster and fish abound. There are numerous snorkeling sites. Coral gardens are tended; dead coral are cleared so that reefs recover unimpeded. Pawikan nest eggs near the shore.

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WHERE TIME STOOD STILL When George Tapan shot his prizewinning photograph here, a squall had just passed through Onuk Island and a rainbow contorted on the horizon. The mayor of Balabac was fishing on a boat on the water as George’s assistant Joyce strolled leisurely on the beach, her hair blown by the wind. George clicked the moment into permanence and the rest is history. That slice of tropical life made the rounds, and it quickly found a place on the radar of a global community hungry for pristine retreats.

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ample time to breathe and recover.

Such foresight and responsibility inspire confidence.

I contemplated walking to the shore to take a dip. But getting off the hammock was impossible. Sloth overcame me. I had the strength to get up but none of the desire or the urgency. Earlier that morning before dawn, the moon hovered above Balabac Island before it took its leave. Calmness had prevailed and I was one with the universe. Then and there I decided to return to this place soon. But that sentiment changed quickly. Suddenly, I didn’t even want to leave. n

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ANCIENT SITES VIRTUAL TOURIST explores the mysteries of top 10 less-crowded Mayan ruins

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While many travelers are satisfied with visiting the more accessible and well-known Chichén Itzá and Tikal, VirtualTourist.com strives for more off-the-beaten path and unique spots. Here’s a compiled list of the top 10 less crowded Mayan ruins and sites found in Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, Belize, and El Salvador.

illustration by fred zeph.

DISCOVERING

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hile there is little debate that the Mayans had an amazing knowledge of numbers and astronomy, their calculations regarding December 2012 was a bit off. However, one should still pay his respects to this ancient civilization.

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MEXICO

Calakmul Campeche, Mexico Calakmul, an important city of Mayan civilization, was once home to more than 50,000 inhabitants, as far back as the Preclassic period (300 B.C. to 240 A.D.).

Its golden age was in the Classic period (250 A.D. to 900 A.D.), when it served as Tikal’s main rival and battled for dominance of the central Mayan area.

There are over 6,000 structures within the city, but it’s important to experience the surrounding Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, which encompasses over 723,000 hectares of protected land and wildlife.

It is a paradise for bird-watching and a

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hotbed of stelae (stone monuments), often in the form of a high-relief sculpture, popular and characteristic of the Mayan civilization. So far, 117 stelae have been discovered at Calakmul, more than any other Mayan site, and all of them from the Classic period.

Palenque Chiapas, Mexico Palenque was the most important city of the low western lands during the late Classic period (peaking between 600 and 800 A.D.), and as a powerful Classic Mayan city, was seat of the distinguished Pakal dynasty.

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Much of the architecture with tilted facades on the buildings and stuccosections is unique and uncharacteristic of the time period; it has become a real hot spot for archeological research interested in architecture and written language.

A notable aspect of Palenque is Temple XIII, where the Tomb of the Red Queen was found in 1994. This tomb is significant because it shares the same platform as the Temple of the Inscriptions, suggesting nobility; the remains found are referred to as “the Red Queen” because the tomb was entirely covered in red cinnabar.

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Yaxchilán Chiapas, Mexico Located on the Usumacinta River, Yaxchilán is a great example of the Usumacinta style that dominated the Classic Mayan of the Low Lands from 250 – 900 A.D., with architecture adorned in epigraphic inscriptions and extensive relief sculpture.

The city exhibits strategic planning, as it was built on a peninsula formed by a bend in the Usumacinta River. Even today, Yaxchilán can only be accessed by lancha (small boat) up the river.

Edzná CAMPECHE, Mexico Edzná, a significant Mayan ruin, receives fewer visitors in a year than Chichén Itzá does in a day. The city’s architecture reflects an amalgamation of differing cities and influences, including roof styles and corbeled arches from Palenque and giant stone masks of the Petén style found in Tikal.

Founded around 400 B.C., the city reached its peak during the late Classic period, with a gradual decline beginning around

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1000 and its abandonment in 1450. Since the city was located in a valley, it had frequent flooding problems, causing the creation of a complex network of canals.

The canals were used for trade and transportation, as well as defense, and gave the city an agricultural edge over other cities in the region.

across the border from Honduras’ Copán. Strategically located on the Montagua River trade route important for the transport of jade and obsidian, it was originally a vassal of Copán. After Quiriguá rebelled and defeated Copán, it allied itself with Calakmul, and erected elaborate stone monuments in a style similar to that of Copán.

Ek Balam YUCATAN, MEXICO

One of the monuments at Quiriguá, known as “Stele E,” is the largest known quarried stone in the Maya world, standing 35 feet tall and depicting a Mayan lord over three times life size.

Ek Balam, which means “black jaguar” in the Yucatec Maya language, is one of the few Mayan settlements that remained occupied until the arrival of the Spaniards.

While not the hardest site to get to, it is under active restoration, so one can get a great overview of the entire archaeological process. One unique aspect of this site is the 100-foot El Torre (or Acropolis) pyramid, which easily surpasses Chichén Itza’s El Castillo.

Quiriguá Guatemala Quiriguá (pronounced as Kiri-gua) is a relatively small site, almost directly www.travelife.biz

El Mirador Guatemala Deep in Guatemala’s Petén jungle, El Mirador hides under 2,000 years’ worth of jungle overgrowth. Though the wellknown Classical Maya ruins in Tikal National Park are frequently visited, the largest Preclassic Mayan city is much more difficult to access. El Mirador is over twice the size of Tikal, with over 80,000 people residing at the site from 300 B.C. to 150 A.D.

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MEXICO The grandeur and size of the site suggest that there were already complex state societies in the Late Preclassic period, contrary to the popular thought that the Preclassic period was a formative period.

El Mirador is only accessible by foot, horse, mule, or helicopter, lying over 60 km from the nearest road.

Lamanai Orange Walk, Belize

Caracol Cayo District, Belize

Lamanai, the Mayan word for “submerged crocodile,” was aptly named because not only do crocodiles appear in the site’s effigies and decorations, but you are also likely to see crocodiles while trying to get there. To reach the site, take a small boat up the winding New River through the tropical rainforest of central Belize.

It takes over two hours by four-wheel drive from the main road to arrive at Caracol, but it is worth the trip. Despite its location along the Guatemalan border and about 80 km from the nearest town of San Ignacio, there are 11 causeways into Caracol, signifying the importance of transportation routes throughout the site.

The Danta Pyramid is the tallest pyramid in the Maya region and the largest in the world.

Unfortunately, despite the fact that the site is difficult to access, this does not protect it from being endangered – deforestation, looting, logging, and drug trafficking all threaten the site and its surrounding rainforest. The site’s main highlight is the Danta Pyramid, the tallest pyramid in the Maya region and the largest in the world, measuring 984 feet wide by 2,625 feet long and 236 feet high.

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Lamanai was one of the longest continuously occupied cities between 500 B.C. to 1675 A.D. due to its strategic location on the trade route of the New River. The most notable ruins is the Mask Temple at the northern end of the complex, built in five construction phases, lasting from 100 B.C. to 900 A.D.

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The excavation data collected in Caracol suggests that the social organization of the settlement included not only elites and specialists living in the urban centers with peasants living on the peripheral, but also a sizeable “middle class.” There is also evidence of artesian specialization, similar to the guilds found in the European Middle Ages, making this site a very unique find and of great anthropological significance.

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It takes over two hours by four-wheel drive from the main road to arrive at Caracol, but it is worth the trip.

Joya de Ceren La Libertad Dept, El Salvador Joya de Cerén is a Pre-Columbian site in El Salvador that preserves the daily life of the indigenous settlements prior to the Spanish conquest. Often referred to as the “Pompeii of the Americas,” Joya de Cerén was buried under ashes of a violent volcanic eruption, preserving evidence of the lifestyle and activities of a Mesoamerican farming community around 6th century A.D. While Chichén Itza and Tulum are the more famous Mayan sites, Mayan secrets can also be

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found among the lesser-known ruins preserved by volcanic ash and jungle overgrowth.

We hope our insights and the highlights from each site intrigue you enough to venture off the paved road and discover the Mayans while you still can!

VirtualTourist.com is the premier resource for travelers seeking an insider’s perspective. Real travel tips, reviews and photos from real people who have actually been there and done that. www.virtualtourist.com n

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MARRAKECH

One Enchanting Weekend

PHOTOs BY christine cunanan.

Art gallery owner NADIA ECHIGUER reveals her favorite hot spots in Morroco’s top tourist destination

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FEBRUARY-MARCH 2015

MARRAKECH

The delicious orange juice of Marrakech

I

GET AUTHENTIC MOROCCAN CUISINE at Le Salama (40 Rue de Banques), just off Djema el Fna Square, where I order the amazing selection of Moroccan salads with over 15 styles, caramelized lamb shank (mechoui), slow roast lamb and pre-dinner cocktails on the terrace.

THE MOST ROMANTIC PLACE IN MARRAKECH is the balcony of Caravanserai Hotel (www.hotelcaravanserai.net) overlooking the Palmeraie. It’s also the most amazing sunset views, which you can enjoy while having tea and listening to gnaoui music. Ask if Bob is still there.

MOROCCAN NIGHTLIFE IS BEST ENJOYED in the Hivernage district, enjoying good food and dancing.

BRING HOME some corne de gazelle briwates with almonds and other Moroccan delicacies from Patisserie Amandine (www.amandinemarrakech.com).

THE BEST WAY TO EXPLORE THE CITY is via a horse and carriage ride.

I GET MY CREATIVE INSPIRATION from Jardins Majorelle (jardinmajorelle.com).

FIRST TIME VISITORS should go to the Place Jmaa el-Fnaa and have a glass of fresh orange juice. www.travelife.biz

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MARRAKECH

THE BEST BEACH IN MOROCCO is in Agadir.

I SHOP FOR SHOES at Atika (34 Rue de La Liberté) in Geuliz because they have the best leather shoes in the city.

NATURE LOVERS SHOULD HEAD TO Ourika valley for some moment of purity and refreshness.

Don’t forget to also BRING HOME slippers, spices, and crockery for a memory of Morocco. When you’re through exploring and shopping, go to the tearoom Tchaba (www. tchabatea.com) to recharge and relax.

MY FAVORITE RESTAURANT is the L’Avenue at the corner of Angle Route de Targa and the Rue du Capitaine Arrigui in Gueliz. My favorite dish is called “Crying Tiger.” It’s a delicious, succulent beef dish with Asian fusion dressing. It is so delicate in flavor and texture that you will want more when you have finished.

GRAB A HAPPY HOUR BEER at Le Salama, with its 360-degree views of the Marrakech medina.

WHEN IT’S RAINING AND YOU DON’T WANT TO STAY IN YOUR HOTEL, head for the Grand Cafe de la Poste (www.grandcafedelaposte-marrakech.com) and sit by the fireplace.

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But if you want to go local, THE QUINTESSENTIAL MORROCAN DISHES are the tagine, mechoui (roasted lamb), and tanjia (meat stew).

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MARRAKECH

A LITTLE-KNOWN HOTEL for the fussy traveler is the Riad Dar Fakir (www.darfakir. co.uk) in the medina. Fatna, the chef, cooks amazingly well.

Start a day of traveling with a MOROCCAN BREAKFAST of meloui, harcha, and tea at Cafe La Flame.

ASIDE FROM MARRAKECH, I RECOMMEND VISITING Essaouira, a charming and vibrant port town on the Atlantic Ocean. It’s only two hours drive from Marrakech and it has beautiful Portuguese, French and Berber architecture framing its maze-like streets. n

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EMBASSY ROW SPAIN

VIVA

España!

AMBASSADOR LUIS CALVO revels in Spain’s vibrant culture and history

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HOW DOES ONE START PLANNING A VISIT TO SPAIN?

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT SPAIN?

13 Spanish towns are featured on UNESCO’s World Heritage List, so these are good starting points, no matter your point of entry in Spain. If you’re looking for nature, you can go to the Ordesa, Picos de Europa, and Timanfaya natural parks, among the many that are included in the Spanish Network of Protected Nature Reserves.

For summer weather all year round, you can always go to the Canary Islands.

Most of our tourists come in the summertime and go to the beaches of the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Coasts.

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We also receive visitors in the winter months headed for the Gold Coast in the southern shore or to ski at the winter stations of our main mountain ranges.

For strolling along the old villages and cities, I would recommend springtime and autumn because of the mild temperatures and the light.

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SPAIN

THE BEST WAY TO ENJOY TAPAS? “Tapas are an excuse to get together with friends and enjoy good company and conversation. They should always be accompanied by a good glass of wine.”

WHO ARE YOUR FAVORITE SPANISH AUTHORS?

WHAT ITINERARY WOULD YOU PLAN FOR A VISITOR’S FIRST VISIT TO SPAIN? If my guest is from the Philippines, I would first bring him to the Avenida de las Islas Filipinas in Madrid to show him the monument of Rizal, which is an exact replica of the one in the Luneta. After walking the length of the Castellana and The Alcala, I would recommend a visit to the cities close to Madrid that faithfully reflect our past and our history: Toledo, Segovia, Avila, and Salamanca.

In each of these cities you will be able to take tours that will give you a better understanding of Spanish culture, in the most practical and comfortable way

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WHAT ARE THE TOP 3 DISHES VISITORS MUST TRY? The most representative dishes would be rice in paella or abanda; gazpacho (cold soup) in its different variants; and the Castillian asados, whether lamb or cochinillo. Coming from the north of Spain, I would single out fabada (lentil soup) in its different forms: the traditional one or the fabes with clams and fabes with crabs.

“Miguel de Cervantes, naturally, and I hardly have to explain why as he is considered one of world’s top novelists.

I also like Antonio Machado for poetry, and Leopoldo Alas, a Spanish novelist of the 19th century who, with his critical eye, wrote about Spanish society at that time.”

SPANISH SOUVENIRS

Talavera pottery

WHAT’S THE BEST WAY TO ENJOY SPANISH WINES? All the provinces of Spain now produce their own good wines. I recommend visitors to try local wines at every stop in Spain to compare the qualities and flavors of the wines made in that region. Pair them with a plate of the best example of the local gastronomy.

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A leg of Spanish ham

A handpainted Spanish fan Cool decorative items from Barcelona

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EMBASSY ROW SPAIN

PLAZA de españa photo by kq quimpo.

Plaza de España

3 SPAIN’S THINGS TO DO

IN

TOP 5 CITIES

Barcelona

Seville

• Tour the Barrio Gótico and walk the Ramblas of Barcelona • See all the architectural masterpieces of Gaudi, including the Sagrada Familia • Visit the Picasso Museum

• Visit the Seville Cathedral (www.catedraldesevilla.es) • Walk around the Barrio de Triana neighborhood • Tour the Reales Alcazares (www.alcazarsevilla.org)

Madrid

Bilbao

• Visit the great museums including the Prado Museum (www.museodelprado.es) and the Reina Sofia (www.museoreinasofia.es).

• Sample the tapas in the Mercado San Miguel • Take a walking tour of Madrid that includes the Royal Palace and the old neighborhoods around the Puerta del Sol

SPANISH FESTIVALS YOU SHOULDN’T MISS

Valencia • Visit the futuristic section of the city, designed by controversial architect Santiago Calatrava • Try one of the many restaurants and bars in the Playa de Malvarrosa (playamalvarrosa.net) • Visit the Albufera National Park at El Saler

• Visit the Guggenheim Museum (www.guggenheim-bilbao.es) • Explore the Siete Calles, found in Casco Viejo, and their many bars and restaurants • Attend a game of the Athletic Club of Bilbao (www.athletic-club.eus) in the Estadio San Mamés (www.sanmames.org)

The bars of the Siete Calles of Bilbao (don’t miss their famous pintxos)

Barrio de Triana or Santa Fe in Sevilla

MARCH Las Fallas Festival (www.fallasfromvalencia.com) is a cathartic five-day long event when giant intricate painted papier-machè ninots (“puppets” or “dolls”) are set on fire to satirize political figures, issues, and current events.

AUGUST La Tomatina (www.latomatinatours.com) is a huge food fight involving thousands of people throwing overripe tomatoes at each other. Although this popular festival has been around since the 1940s, how it began remains a mystery.

Huertas district in Madrid

Semana Grande (www.astenagusia.com), which means “Big Week” in Spanish (or “Aste Nagusia” in Basque) has huge iconic puppets, rock, jazz, and pop concerts, and firework contests that light the sky each night of nine-day event.

A TASTE OF THE SPANISH NIGHTLIFE

The tapas bars in the old town of San Sebastian

SEPTEMBER San Sebastian Film Festival (www.sansebastianfestival.com) showcases films from varied genres such as movies by new directors, local films, and even animation made for audiences of all ages.

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING FEATURE

FLAVORS

of Home

GASPI’S brings to the table a taste of warm, cozy traditional Spanish dishes

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PHOTOs BY BRYAN AREVALO.

here’s a certain sense of familiarity that permeates throughout the room – like you’ve been here before. You feel welcome, as if you’ve been away and they’ve long awaited your return. There’s an undeniable sense of home, a return to familial warmth that makes you feel safe and cared for.

Fabada, Spanish white bean soup, or Potaje de Lentejas (lentils soup).

Dining at Gaspi’s in SM City BF in Paranaque is akin to coming home.

Pie Gaspar, owner, exudes motherliness and a commanding air. It’s almost as if she’ll scold you for eating bad, poor food, prompting her to serve you a hearty, home-cooked Spanish meal lovingly made in her kitchen.

Gaspi’s makes a lean, mean Paella Valenciana, with a generous serving of meat and seafood – a must-order at Gaspi’s. And since they’ve got their traditional paellas down pat, Pie and her daughter Pilar created unique and innovative paella dishes inspired by local favorites. The Paella Adobo makes you wonder why no one has ever tried combining a Filipino classic with paella flavors. The Paella Sisig has full-flavored pork pieces topped with fried egg, while Paella Catalan is an indulgent and rich rice dish generously mixed with creamy crab fat laden with meat and shellfish.

Whet your appetite with some tapas – garlicky Gambas al Ajillo, creamy Croquetas and full-flavored Chistorra.

Follow this with a comforting hot bowl of

Savor well-loved Spanish dishes such as Salpicado, Lengua with olives and mushrooms, and Callos, all lovingly made from family recipes passed on from

Gambas al ajillo

generation to generation. “These are dishes my family loves to eat,” says Pie, whose family used to own Gasparelli’s, a well-loved Spanish restaurant she owned with her late husband back in the 1990s.

Pair these delectable dishes with Gaspi’s homemade sangria for a truly authentic Spanish feast.

No meal is ever complete without dessert, and Gaspi’s has a temptingly wicked line up. Their Frozen Brazo is a hands down crowd pleaser, while the Brazo de Elena and Canonigo are light as feather sweet endings. The velvety sweet Flan de Carmen and Natilla Catalana are a taste of heaven on a plate. n

2/F SM City BF Paranaque City Tel. (63)(2) 887-0325 Mob. (63) 917 819-1090 gaspisfoodservices.com Salpicao

Canonigo

EMBASSY ROW SPAIN Plaza de toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballaria in Sevilla.

WHAT MAKES SPAIN A WELLSPRING OF ARTISTIC TALENT?

Barcelona Cathedral

Spain is the product of a long historical evolution in which, just like a melting pot, many different influences and identities merged together and which, eventually, produced geniuses capable of artistically expressing this process, like Salvador Dali, Pablo Picasso and Antoni Gaudi.

WHY DO SPANIARDS LOVE THE FLAMENCO? The flamenco is a faithful reflection of our mixed heritage, but it’s also about different kinds of music and not only “cante jondo” or “Sevillanas.”

WHAT ARE SPANISH FASHION BRANDS SO POPULAR THE WORLD OVER?

• Aside from Spanish, there are three co- official languages in Spain: Catalan, Basque and Galician • #1 in tourism competitiveness • #2 in Most Number of UNESCO World Heritage Site Monuments • “Don Quijote de la Mancha” by Miguel de Cervantes is the most widely read book in the world, after the Bible

WHAT THREE WORDS BEST DEFINE SPAIN AND SPANISH CULTURE? Diverse, versatile, and universal. n

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PHOTOs BY kq quimpo.

A LITTLE TRIVIA ON SPAIN

We all succumb to the temptation of the modern and youthful designs of the Spanish brands and their value for money. These are just a sample of the very advanced design industry of Spain, as we are on the cutting edge in many fields and capable of challenging other European countries that are traditionally identified as leaders in this sector.

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BUSINESS CLASS

A family trip in Lucerne, Switzerland

Terrazas de Punta Fuego, Nasugbu, Batangas

Landco President and CEO ALFRED XEREZ-BURGOS III continues to develop leisure properties inspired by traveling

HOW HAS TRAVELING INFLUENCED YOU? When I travel to places like Switzerland, San Francisco, or Fisher Island in Miami, Florida, I can’t help but dream and think, “If they can do it there, why can’t we here in the Philippines?” The challenge is to bridge the gap between where we are now and what our full potential can be.

This is what we have in mind when we develop our properties —to upgrade the standards and enhance the landscape so that these will be projects we can proudly hand over to the next generation.

I love to travel because I am able to recharge my batteries and be filled with new inspirations that challenge me to get back to work and apply what I have learned. The vision isn’t to simply replicate but rather to provide a higher quality of living.

This is my purpose and fulfillment.

WHERE ARE YOU GOING NEXT? My next travel destination is Hawaii. This is where my wife and I spent our honeymoon, and we plan to spend our 20th wedding anniversary there, this time with our kids.

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WHAT KIND OF TRAVELER ARE YOU? I love exploring new places, trying new dishes and appreciating the cuisine in each locale. Food and wine must be experienced. I love to explore new cultures and to bask in each of them. If I’m staying long enough, I love going to the market where everything is happening, to get the real flavor of the people and culture.

WHERE IS THE COMPANY HEADED AFTER 25 YEARS OF CREATING LEISURE AND LIFESTYLE EXPERIENCES? The company continues to strengthen its hold on the leisure market by developing mixed-use leisure tourism estates with the best, most accessible swimming beaches in the country, such as in Playa Calatagan, Playa Laiya, and Playa Azalea in Samal Island, Davao, while searching for new areas for growth. There is a lifestyle and leisure need in every one of us, as well as a need to spend quality time with loved ones. Landco would like to continue to do what it does best: to provide that venue and experience of leisure in every community it builds.

WHICH HAS BEEN YOUR MOST CHALLENGING PROPERTY SO FAR? Punta Fuego was challenging since we had no road access when we started developing that project, so we had to initially transport construction materials by boat. It took a lot of hard work. As our flagship project, it continues to be a challenge because the community has grown and we are committed to ensuring that Punta Fuego remains as the premier seaside community in the country in terms of quality and service. n

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The lesson that stands out most is adaptability to change—this sustains the success of a business. We’ve been in the industry of leisure development for 25 years now, and what worked 25 years ago might not be as relevant today. It is crucial to have the vision to anticipate what the market will need, years down the road. That vision should be clearest in the mind of the CEO, but it is necessary to constantly check if this vision is aligned across the company and clear to all employees down the line.

Second, to keep an open mind and to keep the communication channels open. Go out there, listen to new ideas, talk to employees on the ground, find out what your customers are experiencing, put yourself in your customers’ shoes.

HOW HAS THE EXPERIENCE OF LEISURE, THE CORNERSTONE OF YOUR BRAND, EVOLVED SINCE YOUR FATHER BEGAN THIS QUEST 25 YEARS AGO? Twenty-five years ago, my father Alfred XerezBurgos, Jr. had a vision to create outstanding lifestyle experiences that would revolutionize the way people live. Starting as a small company without any resources propelled us to veer away from where the competitors were at that time; so we ventured towards the countryside. Unlike other bigger companies, we offered something unique: weekend homes outside the city. We recognized the universal need for leisure, and the need for places where families can spend quality time together, away from the hustle and bustle, so that they can relax and rejuvenate, and then afterwards, be ready once again to face the everyday challenges of life in the city.

Now this need for leisure has increased even more so. As we become busier, our minds become more cluttered. The city has also become busier, noisier, more polluted. We are bombarded with these daily, resulting in more stress. The longing for leisure, therefore, greatly increases and this fuels Landco’s purpose for being.

Landco Pacific Corporation is the developer of high-end leisure communities, resort-inspired condominiums and luxury home communities.

As a purveyor of resort living experiences for 25 years, Landco is committed to creating innovative and outstanding lifestyle products that revolutionize the way people live.

profie photo by bryan arevalo.

REDEFINING LANDSCAPES

WHAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT LESSON YOU’VE LEARNED SO FAR AS PRESIDENT AND CEO OF LANDCO?

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PHOTOs BY christine cunanan.

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SAFARI SPECIAL

F UN & @ S E GA M

S A BI S A BI

“It’s a testament to the success of Sabi Sabi’s formula that the families wants to do a re-run next year”

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he Pilatus jet flew low over vast dusty plains and tin-roofed townships, on its way from Johannesburg to the air strip of the Sabi Sabi Game Reserve. In a little over an hour, we’d landed and our ranger Michael was driving us to Bush Lodge, our home for the next four days.

I knew this routine quite well as I’d already been at Sabi Sabi two years ago, on a wondrous and memorable safari at two of its other lodges. I still remember how we’d seen giraffe and zebra on this same drive from the airstrip, and from that instant, I’d become completely enamoured with the safari experience.

SO MUCH, SO SOON This time, we were even luckier. Within the first 15 minutes, we’d seen the Big 5, and this was such a shock to all of us that even Michael could not contain his surprise.

“We can go home now,” I’d teased him, for spotting the Big 5 is the ultimate objective of most safari goers.

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But, of course, we were here to stay. A group of us – all avid safari goers – had flown to Africa to bring our children on their first safari; and for this special trip consisting of a series of stays at some of South Africa’s most special places, I’d chosen two famous game reserves in the general area of world-famous Kruger National Park because they offered excellent programs for children.

ONE OF ITS KIND The Sabi Sabi Game Reserve is considered one of the best safari experiences in the world, and it has four specialty lodgings.

Among these, Earth Lodge is the most innovative and Bush Lodge is the only one that accepts young visitors.

Bush Lodge is a sprawling contemporary camp with spacious and well-designed public facilities, including a 1920s-inspired living room and a covered terrace where you can sit all day and watch animals approach a watering hole. There’s also a casual child-friendly dining restaurant that serves buffet meals. If the weather is fine, dinner is outdoors in an enclosed area with a big bonfire in the middle.

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As with Sabi Sabi’s more intimate adultsonly camps, service is conducted flawlessly and efficiently, and always with that friendly South African vibe.

LIFE MADE EASIER However, for families on safari, the piece de resistance of Bush Lodge is a large compound at one end of the camp, aptly named the Elefun Center. As of this writing, this is probably the most wellequipped and best-maintained children’s center in a safari camp. Complete with Sabi Sabi coloring books and personalized materials, it functions as a school, a daycare, and a creative place for young travelers all rolled into one – and it definitely offers parents significant and much-needed “me” time.

It also has its own dedicated “school” building, a secure outdoor play area and a large playground with the kind of equipment that makes little hearts beat faster. And its walls are filled with the happy scribblings and colorful handprints of the young travelers from all over the world who have visited Sabi Sabi.

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STARTING YOUNG Sabi Sabi offers the Ju nior Tracker program for children from ages 4 to 8, and the Ju nior Ranger program for ages 9 to 12. Bushveld-themed educational and entertainment activities can include specially-plan ned children’s games drives, games, contests, and walks and talks on animals, bugs and birds, tracking, and map-reading.

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SAFARI SPECIAL

Children can be dropped off after breakfast for a morning session, and then again after lunch for an afternoon session, to be picked up just in time for the late afternoon game drives.

WONDER WOMAN AT WORK When we were there, the Elefun Center was manned by an energetic young lady who taught the children to swing on a zipline, decorate bags, make animals out of paper cups, and even to spell correctly.

Single-handedly, she ticked off everything on the wish list of the kids and their parents, with a good balance of ageappropriate games, outdoor fun, crafts and school lessons.

The Elefun Center enables families to achieve an excellent balance of activities, including enough time for mom and dad to relax, enjoy a leisurely afternoon tea or a morning of spa treatments between meals and drives.

This is exactly what I did, taking advantage of several free mornings to sample the offerings at the spa of Bush Lodge just before sitting down to a long lunch of salads and kebabs with everyone.

It’s a testament to the success of Sabi Sabi’s formula for keeping families happy that everyone in our group wanted to do a re-run next year, at the end of it all – including the parents. With Elefun Center as an anchor – or perhaps more accurately, as a lifeline – we all realized that a safari with children need not be stressful after all.

There were long faces everywhere as we reluctantly said “See you again soon” – not goodbye – to our new friends at Sabi Sabi.

– Christine Cunanan n

SABI SABI GAME RESERVE www.sabisabi.com

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SOUTH AFRICA

LESSONS IN LIFE

PHOTOs BYchristine cunanan.

Recently shortlisted as the Best Family Educational Holiday for 2015, MalaMala offers activities for young safari-goers and its rangers are trained to customize the experience.

T WHAT’S IN THE MALA MALA KIDDIE KIT? Each ju nior ranger receives a backpack with safari coloring books, an interactive animal checklist, lip gloss and water. For game drives, there are also bags of sweets and candies.

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he main camp of the MalaMala Game Reserve is the grand dame of safari camps in South Africa, and it wears the distinction of being the country’s oldest and most historical private game reserve proudly and literally. Michael Rattray, founder of MalaMala, begun the concept of a luxury safari experience ahead of everyone else by improving on a camp established in 1927 by his father’s friend. This was in the 1960s, at a time when most other camps were nothing but tents and bush; and little has changed at Mala Mala over the past decades.

“We’ve kept this lounge pretty much as is,” explained Greg Baldwin, MalaMala’s head ranger and our host for our stay, as we walked past a cavernous room done up with leather chairs and animal skins. Each group at MalaMala is assigned a ranger who takes care of every detail of the stay, including menus, activities and transfers, and we were lucky to be assigned their best man. Greg was a master planner and also a mean 4WD driver, a great storyteller and a walking encyclopedia on the bush. www.travelife.biz

Greg added, as we stopped to inspect faded black-and-white photos of the camp on the walls, “If you look at these, you’ll find that much of it is still very recognizable.”

STEEPED IN NOSTALGIA Indeed, the camp layout is almost the same, as are the original cone-shaped lodgings from the 1930s. The structures have been rebuilt and upgraded since then but the rooms and suites at Mala Mala’s main camp nevertheless have simple native-inspired furniture and a comfortable old-fashioned atmosphere. Even the bougainvillea trees that line the pathways – providing a delightful shock of pink, when in bloom, to an otherwise typical green-and-brown safari landscape – were planted by an English aristocrat back in 1935.

Meanwhile, adjacent to the lounge is what is perhaps the camp’s most famous room: MalaMala’s bar is cozy, lined with vintage photos and its centerpiece is a masculine wooden counter made shiny from use that has been there ever since anyone can remember. The venue of vol.8 - issue 1

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perhaps a thousand stories, it still has the old score board on the wall on which safari goers used to tally their animal sightings for the day over rounds of drinks before dinner.

NOT FOR ADULTS ONLY However MalaMala is not only big on history but also literally in size. With over 13,000 hectares to its name, it is South Africa’s largest Big Five private game reserve and it enjoys the enviable asset of having a major river (and watering hole) running across it – thus practically ensuring the significant presence of animals on its property.

In South Africa for a family holiday, we’d thus chosen MalaMala because of its history, its size and for its tailor-made programs for children. Recently shortlisted as the Best Family Educational Holiday for 2015 by a major overseas publication, it offers activities for young safari-

goers depending on age, and its rangers are trained to customize the safari experience to their young charges to avoid boredom. MalaMala even prepares tuckboxes with chocolate chip cookies, candy and milk for the children to take on their game drives.

BREAKFAST IN THE BUSH In our case, apart from the personalized game drives, one of the highlights of our stay was a picnic breakfast in the bush with lots of cooking opportunities for the little

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ones. It was the ideal al fresco dining experience, too, even for adults who don’t have a knack for the kitchen.

We set out very early one morning on a game drive before finally stopping in front of a clearing by the river. Looking straight ahead from our seats, we espied in the distance an elaborate and picture-pretty set-up ready for us complete with a table for four, a buffet stand with cereals, fruit and yoghurt, and a makeshift barbecue pit for frying bacon and sausages.

One of the rangers had gone ahead and done the dirty work while we were still busy chasing lions and cheetah, so that all that was left to do was the fun part of cooking and eating. He would also be returning after breakfast to clear up. www.travelife.biz

KIDDIE ACTIVITIES AT MALAMALA • ANIMAL TRACKING

Tutorials on following and identifying various animals in the wild via their spoor markings.

• SURVIVOR CHALLENGE

Hands-on lessons on basic survival skills including water sourcing, plant identification and food foraging.

• “READ” THE BUSH

Ju nior rangers are taught the warning signs of dangerous animals, and first aid skills for emergency situations in the bush.

• GAME WALK

Learning more about the different rocks, trees, birds and nests in the wild via walks arou nd the camp escorted by an armed ranger.

• JUNIOR CHEFS IN THE WILD

The host ranger prepares a bush breakfast that enables children to learn how to make fire and how to prepare a meal outdoors.

• RADIO COMMUNICATION

Children are taught the skills and etiquette of radio commu nication, as practiced on drives and out in the bush by the MalaMala rangers.

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SOUTH AFRICA

“This is certainly living a Travelife,” I said, as we all happily tucked into scrambled eggs and bacon that the little ones had fried themselves. Nearby, about a dozen elephants, including three enchanting babies, strolled happily along the river banks. They’d initially attempted to navigate a path from the river that led straight to our breakfast area, causing a minor panic among those of us unused to having wild and potentially dangerous elephants drop by unexpectedly for a meal.

Smoothly and ever so calmly, Greg told us to stand out of sight by the trees while he walked over to the ledge with a stick.

Then he waved at the elephants and shouted something that sounded to us like a mixture of a greeting and a threat. And just like that, the elephants backtracked and then stayed away in their part of the bush for the rest of the morning.

We looked at him in amazement as he returned and resumed his cooking duties without missing a beat.

“How did you manage that?” I asked. He hadn’t even bothered to bring his rifle, after all. With the unmistakable air of experience – this is a man who has slept alone outdoors in some of the wildest parts of Africa, after all, making the Sabi Sands game reserve experience seem tame by comparison – he explained: “In this case, I just needed to let them know that we were here first so that they would keep away.”

And just like that, we were kept safe from the elephants and breakfast was perfect. In fact, our entire stay at the MalaMala Game Reserve was just perfect. n - Christine Cunanan

MALAMALA GAME RESERVE www.malamala.com

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UNIQUE CHARACTERS, EXCITING STORIES Read about Filipino children, Cambodian dancers, and mythical creatures in the latest children’s books

by Tuttle Publishing, available in bookstores nationwide.

All About the Philippines

by Gidget Roceles Jimenez Retail Price US$ 16.95

This book unveils the beauty of the Philippines and its diversity with the story of three cousins who set off on an adventure. Their journey leads them to discover that their countrymen have different beliefs, yet are bonded together as one race and one nation.

Once Upon a Time in Japan

The Cambodian Dancer

by Roger Pulvers and Juliet Carpenter Retail Price US$ 16.95

by Daryn Reicherter Retail Price US$ 14.95

Japanese classic folktales are retold, including stories

Based on the life of a Cambodian

about how a monkey learns to be honest and how the sea

dancer and teacher who created

became salty. These tales present mythical creatures and

a life of her own in the United States,

clever folk wisdom that have transcended generations.

this story shows the sufferings and hardships, as well as the joys and victories, of Cambodian-Americans through illustrations and simple

Pocket-Sized Solutions for Itching & Scratching Have a stress-free holiday when traveling with kids with these two fast-acting natural soothing creams from Tiny Buds.

Mosquito and Insect bites are no match for After Bites, while moms and dads don’t have to worry about rashes and minor skin irritations anymore with In a Rash. Keep them in your travel bag for an itch-free, scratch-free vacation! Find out more on www.tinybudsbaby.com

language.

The Peace Tree from Hiroshima

by Sandra Moore Retail Price US$ 14.95

This true story, uniquely narrated by a bonsai tree named Miyajima, recalls the travails and experiences of one family in Hiroshima after the dropping of the atomic bomb in 1945.

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NOTES

LAUNCHING INNOVATION In association with renowned French designer Philippe Starck, Delsey recently launched Starcktrip, a new luggage collection that has a durable and minimalist design, perfect for the chic traveler. www.delsey.com

A NEW BUZZ IN TOWN

Burt’s Bees, the maker of the iconic lip balm, opened its first brand store in Manila this year on the third floor of Estancia Mall. It now offers skincare collections like Daisy White for a brighter look and Intense Hydration for dry skin. www.burtsbees.com.ph

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TRAVELING SHOES Sanuk Philippines, in collaboration with Res|Toe|Run, recently launched the new fall and winter collection headlined by the Classic Sidewalk Surfer, identified by minimal stitching, subtle leather and Sanuk’s patented tabbed construction for unconventional comfort. www.sanuk.com

HOLIDAY RUNWAY

GRACE UNDER PRESSURE

Presenting new and cutting-edge collections, Philippine Fashion Week opened its catwalk on Independence Day. In partnership with Power Mac Center, each collection was paired with a sophisticated device or accessory.

After the shows, designers and fellow fashion lovers mingled in the nightly parties at the Raven Boutique Club. philippinefashionweeklive.com

A veteran of Manila’s five-star hotels and accustomed to serving a discerning clientele, Quest Hotel and Conference Center Executive Chef Jerry Montenegro Cruz specializes in cooking under pressure and finishing exquisite dishes for large crowds. His desire to keep cooking good food has brought him to the hotel’s main outlet, Pusô Bistro & Bar, where he promises to take the hotel’s well-loved international buffets to new heights at the same enticing prices. www.questhotels.com

LEGACY IN THE YOUTH This September, the Association of Filipino Franchisers (AFFI) is continuing its advocacy to help young entrepreneurs through the first EntrepRUN: A Run for Success. Designed to promote entrepreneurship throughout the country, this run begins at the Cultural Center of the Philippines and ends at Coastal Mall in Parañaque City. www.entreprun.com

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RSVP

A TASTE OF

GOOD THINGS TO COME

T

Sergio Boero, President, Italian Chamber of Commerce in the Philippines Inc. (ICCPI); Luca Vezzaro, ICCPI Vice President; Valentina Incognito ICCPI Communications and Business Development Manager

he Italian Chamber of Commerce, in partnership with TRAVELIFE Magazine, the Embassy of Italy and the Dante Alighieri Society, launched “L’Aperitivo Italiano” last July 22 at the Straight Up rooftop bar of Seda Hotel in BGC. The event, which showcased fine Italian cuisine as prepared by Seda Hotel, with wines from My Wine, attracted over 300 guests.

Major raffle prizes were donated by Qatar Airways and Flushing Meadows. n

Tommaso Giovacchini, Local Planning Specialist of Luntiang Buklod-Organic Far and friend.

Sandee and Andrew Masigan, Dr. Cecile Infantado and TRAVELIFE Magazine’s Publisher Christine Cunanan

Pino Rondini of My Wine, Geoffrey Baldwin of Heaven Financial Advisers with friends.

Luigi Bernas- Board member, TRAVELIFE Magazine

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CEO of Glamourbox Lia Ramos, Kevin Ross of 3NOVO, Angela McDonald of Manila Recruitment

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Chris Nelson, Chairman of the British Chamber of Commerce Philippines (BCCP) and Amb. Guy Ledoux of the Delegation of the European Union to the Philippines

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING FEATURE

Premium Sushi

Bibimbap & Kamameshi

U.S. Beef

Premium Seafood

PLATED BY

THE FIRE GOD SAMBO KOJIN combines the classical and the modern in this Japanese-Korean grill house

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amed after the Japanese kitchen god and fire-bearer who held dominion over home and hearth, the ultimate “grill all you can, eat all you can yakiniku” restaurant SAMBO KOJIN offers the best of Japanese barbecue and the charm of its Korean counterpart.

The most recent branch opened at the Level 3 Atrium of SM Megamall, bringing in the authentic yakiniku experience at the area.

Sambo Kojin modernizes its operations to provide comfort, efficiency, and pleasurable dining. In fact, the exhaust system eliminates smoke and minimizes odor so that guests may fully enjoy the experience of grilling their own food.

With this new branch, more Filipino foodies will get to savor the goodness of the restaurant’s top grade US beef and premium seafood features, which are all kept fresh in chillers,

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along with its complete line-up of Japanese and Korean specialties. Among Sambo Kojin’s signature offers are its US marbled and tender beef all spiced and sauced to please varying palates and prepared for grilling with the restaurant’s superior equipment.

Also unbeatable is their sushi bar selection.

Favorite sushi classics and exciting concoctions in the widest showcase of Japanese and Korean bite-size wonders. Delicious dining choices from Japan abound with tempura, katsu, furai, kamameshi, sukiyaki, gyoza, and takoyaki while Korean favorites such as bibimbap, chapchae, pajeon, and yongnyam dalg jin (Korean fried chicken) also take center stage.

Sambo Kojin also offers a delectable dessert menu filled with cakes and pastries, verrines, ice cream, and chocolate fondue.

From the kitchen god to the table, Sambo Kojin creates a dining experience to be relished, repeated, and remembered. n www.travelife.biz

Fraisier cake

SAMBO KOJIN Level 3 Atrium SM Megamall EDSA corner J. Vargas Avenue, Mandaluyong City Tel. (63)(2) 6961291 to 93 (63)9177056037 facebook.com/SamboKojin instagram.com/SamboKojin www.sambokojin.com

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THE FREQUENT FLIER

FOOD for the SOUL In the rugged hinterlands of Iceland, CHRISTINE CUNANAN finds crustacean nirvana

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n a manner so befitting a #Travelife, you might say that we traveled all the way to one end of the earth to sample the best lobsters in the world in a simple wooden shack in a tiny town.

Eager to explore the earth’s extreme countryside, we’d been driving for hours along a particularly desolate coastline of Iceland last July, made even more dramatic by endless craters and rugged bumps all over the horizon, created over time by the

would have to suffice as nourishment until a proper dinner back in Reykjavik.

SERENDIPITY AT WORK As luck would have it, however, instead we found ourselves driving through the Arctic version of a town. It was really just a quiet street with neat wooden houses in bright colors interspersed with storage outhouses and modest pocket gardens ringed with old-fashioned picket fences.

better than anything I could have wished for, but there was nothing to indicate a particularly significant dining experience.

UNFORGETTABLE LUNCH However that lunch will forever remain in my memory as the time I tasted the best lobsters I have ever had in my #Travelife.

Fresh off the fishing boat, these were cooked with a slap and a dash in butter,

“That lunch will forever remain in my memory, as the time I tasted the best lobsters I have ever had in my #Travelife.”

The result was a 360-degree landscape so surreal, with barren landscape that felt like the surface of the moon on one side and sharp gusty winds that created ripples on an otherwise calm sea the color of squid ink on the other, that I gazed out the window the entire drive, marveling at where I was and how I got there.

But hunger pangs eventually set in, and by then I was far from expecting a delicious meal in the middle of nowhere. With luck, I thought we might stumble upon a store selling the local equivalent of power bars and serving a decent cup of tea, and these

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In any other universe, this would be just a regular street in a slight time warp, in the 1960s; but in that part of Iceland, this was actually a significant outpost of civilization, and this restaurant we found looked like the hub of all social activity for miles.

NOTHING EXTRAORDINARY It was simple, clean and functional, with an extensive bar (which I understand is requisite for surviving Arctic winters), several long tables lined with wooden benches and a bright red wall adorned with token shells and a fisherman’s net. A menu handwritten in Icelandic on a chalkboard indicated only one dish, grilled lobster, and a couple of sides. At first glance, it was www.travelife.biz

garlic and chopped herbs, and then dished into a tin pail, accompanied by potatoes, a basket of bread and little plates of marinated cucumbers and tomatoes picked just that morning from the owner’s greenhouse.

The lobsters were small and sweet, and ever so tasty that all conversation at our table stopped while we pried the flesh off the shells. We needed no words between us, as we understood very clearly that this was a meal unlike any other in the world, to be savoured solo and slowly, so as to remember every morsel and every moment for a very long time. n

PHOTOs BY christine cunanan.

inflows of lava from one volcanic eruption after another.

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