Travel Ireland Magazine Volume 1 Issue 8 by Travel Ireland Magazine

Travelireland Volume 1 Issue 8 December 2014

magazine

Waterfords Wonderful Winterval Johnnie Foxâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the legend of Glencullen

Leaping into action at Leopardstown

Dublin Decoded

Derry Christmas market

contents... Welcome to our December issue, Whether this is your first time visiting these our shores, or whether you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. Whether it is myths and medieval castles, or craic and culture in the confines of a cozy pub and to the tune of a stray tin whistle, you are going to need a friendly hand to gently point you in the right direction. So from all of us here at Travel Ireland, a hefty and heart-felt Céad míle fáilte! And enjoy your stay!

Publisher/Managing Director John Carey Director Paul Daly Features Editor Anthony O’Keeffe Design and Art Direction Tim Evans Credit Control Manager Nichola Thomas nichola@ellenmediacom.ie Advertising John Carey john@ellenmediacom.ie 087 9113732 Bill Daly bill@ellenmediacom.ie 087 1533262 Sabrina Morris sabrina@travelirelandmagazine.ie Tel. 087 2020234 Contributors: Arran Henderson, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’Neill, Anthony O’Keeffe, Stephen Walker. We wish to record our thanks to Paula Sneyd, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht. And to the Northern Ireland Tourist Board, and The National TrustGiants Causeway (NI), for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. And to Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishe’rs prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.

04 - WELCOME TO LEINSTER 06 - EXPLORE LEINSTER 08 - Leopardstown Races 10 - Hidden Dublin 12 - THEATRE 14 - Newgrange 16 - LEINSTER RESTAURANTS 18 - LEINSTER PUBS 20 - Wexford Winterland 21 - The Ark 22 - St. Stephen’s Green 24 - Johnnie Fox’s Pub 26 - WELCOME TO MUNSTER 28 - MUNSTER PUBS 29 - MUNSTER RESTAURANTS 30 - EXPLORE MUNSTER 32 - Winterval 34 - Limerick Christmas Market 35 - WELCOME TO CONNAUGHT 37 - CONNAUGHT RESTAURANTS 38 - CONNAUGHT PUBS 40 - Westport House 41 - EXPLORE CONNAUGHT 42 - WELCOME TO ULSTER 43 - EXPLORE ULSTER 44 - Donegal One Act Drama Finals 46 - ULSTER PUBS 47 - ULSTER RESTAURANTS 48 - Derry Christmas 50 - Belfast Botanic Gardens

Leinster - The east coast province

Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital

Dublin city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city. If you want to escape to the country without actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country.

Hill of Tara

County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of 4 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014

the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone. Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ All-Ireland Drama Festival, Kilkenny Castle the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June. Laois is where you can try your hand at a range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls

stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum . Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor.

Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!

DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 5

Explore Leinster

The National Stud The Chester Beatty Library The Irish National Stud has been producing winners on the racecourse since they sent out Minoru to win the Epsom Derby in 1909. But it is far more than just a centre of equine excellence. It is also home to some of Ireland’s finest natural treasures, in particular the breathtakingly beautiful Japanese Gardens, the finest of their kind in Europe. The gardens trace the passage of a soul from birth to death and beyond, at the same time providing a meeting place for the cultures of East and West. You can also savour the serene and spiritual experience provided by one of the Stud’s more recent additions, St Fiachra’s Garden, a stunningly raw representation of our country’s singular landscape. There are guided tours, a gift shop and restaurant. Tel: 045 521 617

Glendalough

This beautiful glacial valley in County Wicklow is renowned as the place where Cistercian monks settled in the sixth century, and the remains of the monastic priory including a round tower can still be seen today. Known locally as “the valley of the two lakes” , the locals also say it will still your mind, inspire your heart and fill your soul. The early Christian monastic settlement was founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century and from this developed the “Monastic City”. Tel 0404 45325/45352. 6 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014

The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world. Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3 and 4pm. Opening hours, 10-5 Mon-Fri, Sat 11-5, Sun 1-5pm. Tel 01 407 0750

Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance. Tel: 01453 5984.

The Book of Kells

The Guinness Storehouse

Formerly known as the Hop Store, the Guinness Storehouse is laid out over seven floors surrounded by a glass atrium that rises up through its centre. You make your way up on a self-guided tour, where you learn all about the beer’s history, the central part that the Guinness family played in the development of the city, and of the world famous advertising campaigns that did so much to help promote it. Tours are 16.50 Euro, which includes your pint of Guinness in The Gravity Bar on the 7th floor. Which might sound a bit steep for a self-guided tour, but it’s all beautifully laid out and the whole experience is richly rewarding. Tel 01 408 4800

The Old Library and the Book of Kells Exhibition in Trinity College Dublin are the first things that all visitors gravitate to when first setting foot in Dublin. Located in the heart of the city, a walk through the cobbled stones of Trinity College will bring visitors back to the 18th century, when the magnificent Old Library building was constructed. And upstairs, you’ll find yourself in the magical environs of the justly famous Long Room. Inside the Book of Kells itself is a 9thcentury gospel manuscript famous throughout the world for its lavish decoration. The manuscript contains the four Gospels in Latin based on a Vulgate text, written on vellum (prepared calfskin), in a bold and expert version of the script known as “insular majuscule”. Guided tours of the campus, including the Old Library, The Books of Kells, and the magnificent Long Room upstairs are 12 Euro. Opening hours: 9:30-5:00 (4:30 Sun) Tel 01 896 1661

Explore Leinster

Jameson Visitors Centre

Bow St, Smithfield, Dublin 7 Experience the Jameson Distillery tour and let their expert guides take you back in time as they lead you through the fascinating story of Jameson. Set in a recreated distillery scene, all visitors learn how three ingredients make the number one Irish whiskey in the world. Guided tours last one hour and include a signature Jameson drink. Volunteers are selected to partake in a tutored whiskey tasting where each person receives a much coveted Irish Whiskey Taster Certificate. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. 01 807 2348

Cultural and Historical Walking Tours The streets of Dublin have been home to the Vikings, Normans, Elizabethans, Georgians and Victorians. What better way to explore its secret nooks and crannies than to take one of the many cultural and historical walking tours that the city has to offer. At Dublin Decoded, Arran Henderson provides a wide range of fascinating insights into Dublin’s history, with particular emphasis on its art and architecture. From “How To Read A Painting:symbols and meaning at the National Gallery” to Architecture of Georgian Splendour, and an historic Medieval Treasure Hunt. Alternatively you can talk to him about designing your own tour. See www.dublindecoded.com

The War Memorial Gardens

When you are visiting IMMA in Kilmainham, you should walk on over to Islandbridge about half a kilometer further on. The gardens there are dedicated to the memory of the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in the 1st World War. The names of all the soldiers are contained in the beautifully illustrated Harry Clarke manuscripts in the granite bookrooms in the gardens. Not merely a place of remembrance, they are also of great architectural interest and beauty. They are one of only four gardens in this country designed by the famous architect Sir Edwin Lutyens (1869-1944). The others being Heywood Gardens, Lambay Island and those in Howth Castle. The sunken rose gardens, herbaceous borders and extensive tree planting on view here make it well worth that extra bit of a walk. Open all year round. 01 475 7816

The National Museum of Ireland

The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. Admission to the museum is free and there are numerous exhibitions, talks and tours. Tel 01 6777444.

Avondale House and Forest Park

Avondale House was the birthplace and home of Charles Stewart Parnell (1846-1891), one of the greatest political leaders of Irish history. Set in a magnificent forest park of over 500 acres, there are tree trails and walks ranging in duration from one to five hours. Visitors are introduced to this wonderful historical house by a specially commissioned audio visual presentation. Other facilities include a licensed café, bookshop, picnic areas, children’s play area, three orienteering courses (maps can be downloaded at www. coillteoutdoors.ie) and a large car/coach park. 0404 46111 www.heritageisland.com

Casino Marino

The Casino was designed by Sir William Chambers as a pleasure house for James Caulfield, 1st Earl of Charlemont, and is one of the finest 18th century neo-classical buildings in Europe. The Casino, meaning “small house”, and notwithstanding its name, contains 16 finely decorated rooms, endlessly rich in subtlety and design. It is a remarkable building, both in terms of its structure and its history. The Casino is located at Marino, just off the Malahide Road and only three miles north of the centre of Dublin. Open 10-5pm, admission 3 Euro, 1 Euro for students and children. Tel 01 833 1618 DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 7

The Leopardstown Racing Festival at Christmas

ver the last few decades Ireland has established itself as one the most powerful forces in international horse racing. The training establishment at Ballydoyle in county Tipperary and its sister breeding operation next door at Coolmore are two of the most powerful centres in global racing. Set up my Vincent O’Brien in the 1940s, it was taken over by Aidan O’Brien after the former retired in the 1990s - though they are not actually related. Although both men are today associated with the flat, they each started out over the jumps. National Hunt racing, despite, or perhaps because it’s the less glamorous of the two, has always been the heart and soul of Irish racing. And the most

8 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014

important meeting over jumps every year is always the Christmas meeting at Leopardstown. Leopardstown is the only one of Dublin’s race courses to be situated on the outskirts of the actual city. In between Stillorgan and Sandyford as you head towards the coast, it enjoys the uniquely dry (for Ireland that is!) climate that the capital boasts at the expense of the rest of the country. For Dublin is essentially shielded by the hills that surround it. It gets half of the country’s average rainfall, compared to the West which gets double. So the West is effectively four times as wet. What this means in practical terms is that the meetings held at Leopardstown Racecourse are almost never cancelled. So it’s the perfect place to have one of the two most important meetings held

over the Christmas period. The other being the similarly seminal meeting held at Kempton, in England. All of which means that the very best horses in Ireland all make their way to Leopardstown every Christmas, where they are joined by many of the best from over in England, as the course at Kempton is considerably more exposed than Leopardstown and doesn’t enjoy the same protection from the elements. Unsurprisingly, given the time of the year, the Christmas meeting has become both the social and sporting event of the season. The four day festival kicks off every year on Stephen’s Day (or Boxing Day if you’re reading this in England). This is one of the highlights

The Leopardstown Racing Festival at Christmas

of the social calendar, and the place is inevitably mobbed. Day two is Paddy Power day, and for many people this is when the racing proper starts. But the highlight of the festival from a racing perspective is the Lexus Chase on day three. The Lexus has been won by the likes of

Imperial call (’97), Best Mate (’03) Denman (’07) and Bobsworth last year in 2013, all of whom were Cheltenham Gold Cup winners. It was also won in 1986 by a horse called Very Promising, who, for the record, was bred by an uncle of mine. Cheltenham is the annual festival held in the West of England every March, and is the Olympics of national hunt racing. And the Christmas meeting at Leopardstown is one of, if not the most important meeting for all of the owners and trainers hoping that their horse will graduate to Cheltenham. And the Lexus is the dress rehearsal for the most important race of all, the Gold Cup. In short, if you are in any way minded for a post Christmas stroll, or for the very best of Irish racing, Leopardstown is the place to be.

Go to www.leopardstown.com

Persian Cuisine

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Hidden Dublin

Liberties to St James.

Market Street Store House.

Writer and art historian Arran Henderson shares some insights taking you through the historic Liberties, Guinness works, a former Canal harbour to St James church.

St Francis of Myra.

An ancient wooden church on this site was rebuilt in stone as a monastery here by the Franciscan order, soon after their 12th century arrival in Ireland. Closed following the dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII, then destroyed, the site was later re-acquired by the Franciscans in the 17th century. But not until c1830 could they build a new church here, designed first by John Leeson, later improved by Patrick Byrne. Today called St Nicholas of Myra or “Nicholas Without”, meaning outside the old city walls, since there was formerly a “St Nicolas within”. But the original church title gives Francis St its name today.

Today’s visitors tend to focus on the visitor experience within the nowcalled Guinness StoreHouse, and neglect the building itself. That’s a shame since this vast 1904 industrial edifice, designed in best Chicago School style, is one of the first steel framed buildings in Britain and Ireland. Moreover it’s full of decorative detail, from the towering red brick pilasters to these incredible oriel windows on the East bays, with their extraordinary “jellymould’ stone frames.

Grand Canal Dock.

Reginald Street Pavilion.

Few visitors notice the name of this place, and if they do, it seems confusing, given there isn’t a drop of water to be seen! Yet once upon a time this was the original terminus for the Grand Canal Company. There was a huge harbour here, chock full of boats, barges, stevedores and warehouses. It wasn’t filled in until the 1950s. Today, you’d hardly know it had been here at all.

St James’ church, by two.

Just off bustling Meath Street, this iron monument marks the quiet intersection of Grey Street and Reginald Street. Those two streets divide the surrounding area into four, almost concealed squares of workers’ cottages, developed as philanthropic housing by the Victorian-era Artisan Dwelling Company. The squares are worth a discreet peek. Originally a drinking fountain, the pavilion was later remade into a shrine.

10 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014

There are two St James’ churches on the street of that name, one Catholic and one Church of Ireland (Anglican) on each side of the road. The C.o.I church (this picture) is now deconsecrated, but planned to be re-opened as a whiskey museum! The Catholic Church perseveres. Pilgrims’ passports have been issued here since at least 1220, for medieval travellers to Santiago de Compostella, the tomb of St James himself. Hence the name of the Dublin church, gate and street. Arran Henderson leads Dublin Decoded scheduled tours May-November and tours for private groups all year round. Tour menus, prices and contact details can be found on the site dublindecoded.com

www.winterval.ie

IRISH CRAFT SHOP C

Est. 1995 M

Specialists in Irish Knitwear, Tweeds and Wool Products

“ We Sell Traditional Aran Sweaters, GROGANS Wool & Tweed Products” Where time stands still MY

CMY

For further details and bookings go to www.winterval.ie Winterval Programme 16 pagesTEST.pdf

22/10/2014

17:10

Open 7 Days EE

Host to a continuous changing art exhibition

Horse Drawn Sleigh

LOCATION: The Mall, outside Waterford Crystal PRICE: Adults €7, Children €6. Group rates available on request 20+ DATES AND TIMES: Days as per calendar (page 3)

15 South William Street Telephone 677 9320

Toy Museum in the Large Room LOCATION: In the Large Room, City Hall, The Mall PRICE: FREE DATES AND TIMES: Monday to Thursday 9.30am - 2pm Friday 9.30am - 6pm Saturday 10am - 6pm, Sunday 12 - 6pm

Winterval Express Train LOCATION: Barronstrand Street PRICE: Adults €6, Children €5 (weekends) DATES AND TIMES: Days as per calendar (page 3)

Located on Top Floor of St. Stephens Green Centre MY

CMY

Our majestic Shire horses will take you on a magical tour of Waterford City taking in all the wonder of the Christmas market, the Viking Triangle and festivities at John Roberts Square.

Why not come and enjoy a beautiful display of toys from Christmas past and introduce your children to your childhood favorites.

Mention this Ad for a discount!

Pick up point at The Mall, Waterford Crystal.

As part of Action Man’s 50th anniversary we are delighted to showcase a stunning collection of Action Man figures!

Hop on board the magical “Winterval Express”, a road train that takes you on an enthralling half hour journey through the historic streets of Waterford. See the Winterval attractions; the Giant Postbox and Carousel, the Singing Christmas Tree, Santa’s Grotto, Reginald’s Tower, Winterval Christmas Market, Yule Viking Settlement and the Polish Christmas Village. Pick up at train station Barronstrand St.

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Theatre

The Abbey

She Stoops To Conquer by Oliver Goldsmith

Oliver Goldsmith’s delightful comedy of deception and seduction has been enthralling audiences for over two centuries. Marlow and Hastings, two well bred city gentlemen, arrive in the countryside in search of love. However, they become embroiled in confusion after they are tricked into believing their host, Mr. Hardcastle, is an innkeeper. Against a backdrop of mounting chaos they pursue their romantic intentions with escalating hilarity. Radiating charm and bursting with humour, this much-loved play is directed by Conall Morrison and will be the perfect Christmas treat. December 4th to January 31st Tel 01 878 722

The Gate

Wuthering Heights

by Emily Brontë, adapted by Anne-Marie Casey Emily Bronte’s novel of intense desire and impossible love has thrilled generations of readers since its first publication in 1847. Set in the magnificent and desolate landscape of the Yorkshire moors, it tells of the doomed relationship between the wild and beautiful Catherine Earnshaw and her adopted brother, the brooding, elusive Heathcliff, whom her father discovered as a mysterious foundling on the Liverpool docks and brought back to his home Wuthering Heights. Humiliated by his adopted family and spurned by the woman he loves, anger and resentment grow in Heathcliff. Will his all-consuming passions ultimately destroy both himself and those around him? Until Jan10th Tel: 01 874 4045

National Concert Hall The National Concert Hall is home to the RTÉ National Symphony Orchestra, Irish Baroque Orchestra, and the National Chamber Choir of Ireland. But its cultural brief extends across all musical genres from Classical and Irish Trad, to jazz, folk and world music. Highlights this December include Christmas with Palestrina Choir on December 4th at 8pm, Handel’s Messiah with the Irish Baroque Orchestra & Resurgam Choir on December 5th at 7:30pm, JS Bach Christmas Oratorio on December 8th at 8pm, Handel’s Messiah on December 10, 11 and 12th, Celine 12 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014

Byrne Christmas Gals on December 18th at 3:30 and 8pm and the Christmas Concert featuring The Snowman on the 19th at 2:30 and 5pm, and on the 20th and 21st at 12, 2:39, 5 and 7:30 pm. Tel: 01 417 0000 Or go to www.nch.ie

The Gaiety Peter Pan

Johnny Ward will play the lead character in this year’s Gaiety Christmas Panto – Peter Pan! A star of stage and screen, Johnny is no stranger to panto, having starred as Buttons in ‘Cinderella’ at the Gaiety Theatre in 2012. For the first time ever at the iconic Dublin theatre, soar to Neverland with Tinkerbell, Wendy, Captain Hook, Smee, Nana and all the crew at this year’s panto – Peter Pan! As they always like to say, this is no ordinary

panto, it’s the Gaiety Panto! Dec 1st to Jan11th Tel: 01 679 5622

Bord Gais Energy Theatre Elf the Musical! by Agatha Christie

The Mousetrap is celebrating the 62nd year of a record breaking run during which over 25,000 performances have been given, including a sellout run at the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre last year. An iconic piece of theatrical history, this is a classic whodunnit written by the greatest crime writer of all time. Dec 16th to Jan 10th Tel: 01 677 7999

Newgrange

very year, a handful of lucky people gather at Newgrange, about 40 minutes north of Dublin, for the Winter Solstice on December 21st. There they hope to see the sunlight seep into the chamber to illuminate the carefully positioned interior, just as they did 5,000 years ago when they were originally built.

The official name for the Neolistic complex just off of the River Boyne is Brú na Bóinne. And it comprises not just of the large mound at Newgrange, but of similarly large mounds at Knowth and Dowth, as well as scores of other smaller ones. But most people refer to it simply as Newgrange. Experts continue to differ as to precisely what it was the constructions there were built for. They are made up of large, circular mounds, with stone passageways and chambers within. And are surrounded by a series of large, carefully decorated stones without. But whether the intricately carved patterns are merely decorative or symbolic is unclear. However, all the time and effort that was put into their creation would strongly suggest that the site must surely have been built for religious reasons. What they do know though is that the buildings, if that’s what we can call them, date back to 3,200 BC. So they are more than 500 years older than Stonehenge, and nearly a thousand years older than the Pyramids in Egypt. The great archaeologist Colin Renfrew has said of Newgrange that it is “unhesitatingly regarded by the prehistorian as the great national monument of Ireland” and as one the most important megalithic sites in the whole of Europe. However, it is not possible to visit Newgrange other than by booking a tour at the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre. Which you can either drive out to by car, or get a bus from Dublin to. So be sure to organize your visit through the Visitor Centre. And if you’d like to be one of the lucky few who get to visit Newgrange for the Winter Solstice, you’ll need to apply to the centre to have your name added to the list. Every year, local schoolchildren draw 50 lucky names, each

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of whom can bring a friend. But be warned, last year nearly 30,000 people applied. And if that’s not bad enough, you’ll also be relying on our weather to produce a bright and sunny morning. There’s not very much to see there if it’s cloudy. Perhaps that’s why they are still standing. They’ve not had to cope with the wear and tear of daily sunshine. 041 982 3071 Or go to www.newgrange.com

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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster

777

7 Castle House, S George’s St., Dublin 2. tel 01 425 4052

Thornton’s Restaurant

Above the Fitzwilliam Hotel, Stephen’s Green. tel 01 478 7008

There’s been a huge influx of Chinese in Dublin of late, and the choice of Chinese food in the city has improved no end. But this is still the best place to find dim sum. And significantly, most of the people you’ll find eating here are other Chinese diners.

Super Miss Sue

Drury St, Dublin 2. tel 01 679 9009 One of the few places to get really great fresh fish in the centre of town, and surprisingly affordable. You can treat yourself to a full meal in the restaurant proper, or a traditional fish and chips of exceptional quality in the diner next door.

A little pricey for a Mexican restaurant, but well worth it. Beautifully decked out and effortlessly fashionable, you could comfortably skip the main courses and go instead for a selection of starters, which tend to be as generous as they are enticing.

Acapulco Mexican Restaurant

7 S George’s St, Dublin 2. tel 01 677 1085

Darwin’s Restaurant

80 Aungier St, Dublin 2. 01 475 7511

This one star Michelin restaurant is, as they say, reassuringly expensive. Which is only as it should be as the man in charge is Ireland’s finest chef, Kevin Thornton. If you have any intention of cementing a relationship, or of instigating a new one, this is the place to take them.

Yamamori

71-2 S. George’s St., Dublin 2. tel 01 475 5001

This family run restaurant caters to all possible tastes, whether carnivorous, coeliac or vegetarian. Their own in house butcher provides them with meats, game and poultry, they have fresh fish and a wide selection of dishes made from locally sourced vegetables. And you can finish it all off with their homemade desserts.

Fade Street Social

4 Fade St, Dublin 2. tel 01 604 0066 The latest venture from Dublin’s hottest hipster chef Dylan McGrath, this manages to be both screamingly fashionable and a really good restaurant, without being overpowering. It’s not quite as casual as it would have you believe, but it is really, really good.

This lively Mexican Restaurant offers the very best traditional Mexican cuisine, with sizzling fajitas, burritos, tacos and, best of all their famous deep fried icecream!

Ciao Bella Roma

24-5 Parliament St., Dublin 2. tel 01 677 0004

Café Topolis

37 Parliament St, Dublin 2. tel 01 670 4961 The original Yamamori on George’s Street still serves up the best and simplest Japanese food in Dublin. But Yamamori Sushi, their sushi bar on the quays, runs it a close second. And if you’re looking for something a bit more funky, there’s always Yamamori Izakaya.

The Good World

18 S George’s St, Dublin 2. tel 01 677 5373

These are the best pizzas you’ll find north of Naples, and are very much of the Neapolitan variety rather than the much thinner Roman sort. And their special lunch deal, which gives you a pizza and glass of wine for around a tenner is not just the best value lunch in town, it’s the best lunch full stop.

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Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster

Le Bon Crubeen

81-2 Talbot St., Dublin 1. tel 01 704 1026

Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value.

Peploe’s

16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2. 01 676 3144

KC Peaches

28-9 Nassau St, Dublin 2 01 633 6872 There are four KC Peaches (so far) in the centre of town, but the one opposite Trinity on Nassau Street is probably the best known of them. They specialise in giving you the freshest of ingredients with which to fashion your own lunch. Their salads are especially impressive.

The Elephant & Castle This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It won the Best Value Restaurant Dublin in “The Dubliner” Top 100 restaurants in 2012, having previously won the Irish Restaurant Awards’ Best Casual Dining Restaurant in Dublin in 2010. Value and quality.

Whitefriar Grill

16 Aungier St, Dublin 2. 01 475 9003

19 temple Bar, Dublin 2 01 679 3121

This stylish Bistro produces the very best quality food at relatively affordable prices. Plush yet comfortable, their 28 day dry aged steak is the best you’ll find anywhere in the city. And their 3 course dinner special for just 24,50 is the proverbial steal.

Il Primo

16 Montague St., Dublin 2. 01 478 3373

Dublin’s original American style casual diner, if you haven’t had their spicy chicken wings during your stay here, you really haven’t visited Dublin’s Temple Bar at all. But go early or in the middle of the afternoon, because it gets very busy at lunch.

Mao’s Restaurant Chatham Row, Dublin 2 01 670 4899

One of the best of the oriental fusion restaurants, there are actually four of them now out in Stillorgan, Dundrum and Dun Laoghaire as well as here in town. Thai and Asian flavoured noodles and rice, they offer an extensive menu at a reasonable price. And the food is top notch.

Zaytoon

14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel. 01 677 3595.

They pride themselves on putting brunch back on the menu, and in producing the best brunch in Dublin. But there’s a lot more than that going on at this superior smart casual restaurant. Their latest Ribs N Rump gives you a 14oz steak and a choice of ribs plus 2 sides for just €40 on Sunday nights.

Kafka Restaurant

236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6. 01 497 7057

“If you want to taste risotto made as it should be, you’ll need to go to Il Primo,.” So says Paolo Tullio of the Irish Independent. And this restaurant has been producing some of the best rustic, Italian food you’ll find anywhere in Dublin for over 20 years now.

Aqua Restaurant 1 West Pier, Howth 01 832 0690

One of the best places to get a bite to eat at the seaside village of Howth, Aqua is at the very end of the pier. So you get spectacular views of the sea, as you munch contentedly on creatures that were recently living there. And they’ve a good value early bird menu to take advantage of too.

Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.

DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 17

Recommended Pubs in Leinster

The Stag’s Head 1 Dame Court, Dublin 2 01 679 3687

This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming.

The Grave Diggers Hidden away just off of Dame Street, there’s been a tavern here on this corner for over 200 Years. And the Stags has long been a traditional haunt for Trinity students, and for the stars of film and television that they grow up to become. Whilst downstairs you can see comedy on Mondays or Irish Trad at the weekends.

Hourican’s Bar

7 Leeson St Lwr, Dublin 2 01 678 9030

Gravediggers

28 Parliament St, Kilkenny 056 776 2573

It reads “John Kavanagh” above the door outside, but everybody knows it as the Grave Diggers, as it’s just around the corner from Glasnevin Cemetery. Before Gunness became so efficiently corporate and the quality of a pint was far less predictable, this used to be where you’d go for the best pint in Dublin. It still is, and they haven’t changed a thing here for years. Happily.

Cleere’s pulls off that rare trick of successfully being two things at the same time. Out the front, it’s a classic, traditional Irish pub. And out back, it’s an exciting theatre that plays host to gigs and plays. And they are as serious about the acts that they allow perform there as they are about keeping the atmosphere exactly the same as it’s always been.

Johnnie Fox’s

Glencullen, Co Dublin. 01 295 5647 Set high up in the heart of the Dublin mountains, Fox’s is an institution. Superb food and a unique atmosphere, there’s Irish trad here every night, and at weekends in the afternoons as well. And there’s a shuttle bus that gets you there and back in 30 minutes for a fiver either way. But be sure to book, as it’s one of the most popular pubs in Leinster.

Situated at the Stephen’s Green end of Leeson Street, this is the perfect place to stop off for a quiet pint before heading off to some of the more glitzier venues in town proper, or on to the rest of the Leeson Street strip.

Grogan’s

15 S William St., Dublin 2 01 677 9320

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Cleere’s Bar and Theatre

1 Prospect Sq., Dublin 9 01 8307978

Recommended Pubs in Leinster

The Porterhouse

Temple Bar, 16-8 Parliament St, Dublin 2 01 679 8847

There are three now here in town, but the one on Parliament Street is the best known. part of the increasingly popular micro brewery scene, the Porterhouse produces its own choice of stouts, lagers and craft beers, as well as a choice of others from home and abroad. And they usually have live music playing on the mezzanine.

Sweeney’s Bar 32 dame St, Dublin 2 01 635 0056

One of the more recent additions to the Dublin pub scene, you can get to it either from Dame St or from the back of the Stag’s Head. And once inside, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d strayed into a Spanish or Greek taverna. The place is hopping at weekends with students and hipsters earnestly nodding their heads to the bands who play there. And out back, where Sweeneys meets the Stags is a veritable melting pot come the small hours of the morning.

Slattery’s of Rathmines

217-19 Lower Rathmines Rd, Dublin 6

There’s plenty to do in Dublin’s unofficial student quarter, but the only place to go drinking in Rathmines is really here at Slattery’s. No felt, carpet or neon in sight and only the odd television to stain this otherwise classic spit and sawdust pub. Enjoy it while you can as they seem to be going the way of the dodo.

The No Name Bar 3 Fade St, Dublin 2 01 648 0010

Officially it’s the bar above Kelly’s Hotel, opposite the Market Bar and next door to Hogan’s but locals only ever refer to it as the No Name bar. Up on the first floor they’ve taken a suite of elegant Victorian rooms and turned them into a laid back, fashionable bar, complete with a terraced smoking area. And, as you’d expect, they serve up a mean cocktail.

The Liquor Rooms 7 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2 087 339 3688

Situated under the Clarence Hotel on the quays, the Liquors Rooms offer up a heady mix of retro, vintage decor and a smart modern vibe that the too cool for school hipsters find hard to

Doheny & Nesbitt’s 5 Lower Baggot St, Dublin 2 01 676 2945

One of the oldest and more venerable pubs in Dublin, and traditionally the spot where politicians of old would juggle figures before swinging round the corner and into the Dail to present the next budget. It has now been extended both back and up, so that without sacrificing any of its illustrious history, it is now significantly roomier. resist. Once you get in, it’s actually a lot bigger than it seems, and there are all sorts of nooks and crannies for you to get up to who knows what kind of mischief.

DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 19

Rachel Murphy reports on the Wexford Winterland

he curtain has just gone down on the stage of the newly appointed National Opera House of Ireland after another successful Wexford Festival Opera and already the town is gearing up to launch its inaugural Wexford Winterland event. A full programme of festivities and events are planned for over 40 days, beginning on the 29th November right up to the 6th of January, to cater to the tastes of Christmas revellers of all ages. Luckily, the historic Viking town lends itself to a myriad of outdoor venues including Wexford Quay, Selskar Square and the Main Street. At night, Selskar Square will be transformed into “Selskar Under the Stars”, an outdoor venue playing host to Mick Flannery, Corner Boy and The Strypes amongst others. For younger Christmas fans it will double up as an outdoor cinema during the day, screening family movies such as “The Snowman”, “Home

Mick Flannery

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Alone” and many others. Hot chocolate and traditional roasted chestnuts will be on sale and visitors are advised to wrap up warm. A list of orchestral events have also been planned for this spectacular venue. Wexford Quay will boast an “Enchanting Christmas Tree Forest” including a carousel and

lighted path to a beautiful real ice rink where those more nimble revellers can show off their skating skills while taking in the view of Wexford Harbour. The ice rink will feature a state of the art Light and Sound display to entertain skaters as they glide across the ice and of course the onlookers who remain on terra firma. The world renowned Bui Bolg performers will star in the Winterland Parade, starting at South Main Street and walking down through the town, arriving at the Bull Ring for the official switching on of the Festive Lights. There are many other events planned all around the town, including Santa and his elves returning to the Irish National Heritage Park, a Christmas Craft Fair planned in Wexford Art Centre and The Bull Ring Market which will be packed with festive traders along with the usual traders. The festival will be run by Lantern Events, the company responsible for bringing the hugely popular Spiegel Tent to Wexford as part of the Fringe Festival programme which runs in tandem with the Wexford Festival Opera.

Phone the box office at 053 9122051 Or go to www. wexfordwinterland.com

A Most Peculiar Wintry Thing at the Ark

he Ark and Music Network are delighted to present A Most Peculiar Wintry Thing, a brand new family festive music show by the composer Brian Irvine. With a dynamic blend of original music, improvisation and audience interaction, this intimate and alternative festive show will explore the magic and mystery of all things snowy, with a host of favourite memories of winter old and new. The result is a heady atmosphere that’s part circus, part Tim Burton! Inspired by winter oddities, the show brings together four world class improvisation and classical musicians, with a live animator to make a musical snowball of wintery stuff. The result is a wild, rollicking ride filled with tangled up songs and abominable snowmen. It’s a musical adventure that’s been created especially for children and families, and is not to be missed! A Most Peculiar Thing is on at The Ark in Dublin’s Temple Bar, and at venues across the country in Castlebar, Sligo, Bray, Virginia, Letterkenny, Portlaoise, Tralee, Newbridge and Drogheda from the 22nd of November to the 22nd of December.

Go to www.musicnetwork.ie or www.ark.ie

St. Stephen’s Green

ome cities like Venice are designed to confuse the unsuspecting visitor. Others seem to have formed so quickly it’s hard to know where you are when you wander around the centre. But some seem designed to draw you into their very centre. All roads lead when you visit it to the Duomo at the heart of Milan. And similarly, all of Dublin’s principal arteries, at least all of those on the South side, bring you to St Stephen’s Green. From the Green, you can wander down the pedestrianised Grafton Street and then, either on over O’Connell Bridge and on to O’Connell street, or left into Temple Bar, or right into Trinity College. Moving down the Green from the top of Grafton Street towards Baggot Street you’ve Dawson Street and then Kildare Street (where you can visit the National Museum) to your left. And then, once on Baggot Street, you can turn left on to Merrion Square (and on to the National Gallery), or, a little further on, right on to Fitzwilliam Square, Dublin’s two most illustrious Georgian squares. At the opposite corner to Grafton Street, you can make your way up Leeson Street, a den of pleasingly salubrious iniquity at night, but which by day leads you on to the leafy walkways along the Canal. Where you can wander into the villages of Ranelagh and then Rathmines, which the students who have their digs there have turned into a haven of late night coffee shops and vintage clothing stores. Keep a particular eye out for The Third Policeman there. The Green is very much a creation of the 18th and 19th centuries, and its predominantly Georgian architecture compliment the Squares of Merrion and Fitzwilliam that flank it. And it’s very much a product of having been the second most important city in the British Empire. Nevertheless, its citizens balked when Queen Victoria suggested, strongly, that they agree to renaming it Albert Green after the death of her beloved husband. They declined, politely. This year, what with the season that’s in it, the Green is hosting a Christmas market. And around its four “walls” small stalls have been set up where you can get anything and everything that you could possible want to buy, either a gifts for others, or as a small reward for yourself for putting in all that effort. Where better to get that Christmas shopping done?

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The Legend that is

Johnnie Fox’s Pub

s far as capital cities go, Dublin is unquestionably on the small size. But although there is something undeniably thrilling about a metropolis like London or New York, there are one or two advantages to being on the compact size. Travel just 35 minutes by car either north or south from St Stephen’s Green in the centre of Dublin and you’ll find yourself in the middle of the country. Take the coast road north, through to the back of the village of Howth and up its back road and suddenly you’re wandering around on the magnificent Howth Head looking out to sea. Alternatively, drive south from the centre of town but inland, and you find yourself in the charming village of Enniskerry as the Dublin mountains merge into the Wicklow mountains. And as you make your way back into town, like so many before you, you’ll inevitably make the welcome discovery of Johnnie Fox’s, nestled in the sleepy village of Glencullen.

deserved reputation for serving up some of the best seafood in Leinster. And if you’ve time for nothing else, have a bowl of their seafood “mountain” chowder. Best of all however is the shuttle bus service that they provide. For just a fiver each way (ie 10 Euro return) you can get there and back from most of the principle hotels in the city centre. So if you’re anywhere near, say, the Gresham, the Shelbourne or the Burlington Hotels you can catch the bus from there. So however brief your stay here, an evening – or for that matter an afternoon – at the best country pub you’ll ever find (practically) in the heart of the city is not something you’ll want to miss.

Go to www.jfp.ie

As clichéd as it sounds, Fox’s really is a Dublin institution. It has all the charm of a genuine country pub despite being but a hop skip and a jump from the city centre. The reason being, it is a country pub. Its five or six once dingy rooms have been opened up and joined together to form one large space made up of various mini snugs

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that you get to as you cross the pub’s stone floor. And as you do so, its stone walls have all the sorts of centuries old photos and knick knacks that so many other would-be Oirish pubs try forlornly to replicate. Over the years, as is only right and proper for an out of the way country pub, Fox’s has developed a reputation for traditional Irish music. And there are sessions there every day, and all throughout the weekend. Unlike most country pubs though, it also has a justly

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Welcome to Munster

unster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.

Bunratty Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights

Limerick and sounds to suit all tastes. County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week 26 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014

for all to enjoy. One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings Fota Wildlife Park are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Contact : Telephone No: 062 61437. E-mail: rockofcashel@opw.ie. County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’ and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity

to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.

Christmas at Bunratty Castle

ead out of Limerick on the Ennis road towards Galway, and before you reach Shannon Airport, you’ll find yourself in the vicinity of the charming village of Bunratty. And as with any town of significance in days of old, as soon as the town grew into any significance, a castle was erected there to protect the area and to house the nobles whose job it was – as they saw it – to do the protecting. In exchange of course for a reasonable if not insignificant fee. The first settlement here was,

legend has it, destroyed by the bold Brian Boru in 977, a little over 35 years before his last hurrah at the battle of Clontarf in 1014. After which there were three official castles that were built, but which then each fell into disrepair and eventual ruin for all the usual reasons. The Castle that stands there today is the fourth to have been erected on the spot, and was built around 1425 by the MacNamara family. By the 1500s however it had come into the hands of the mighty O’Brien clan, and the famous

Munster men would soon become Earls of Thomond. So the Castle here in Bunratty has been at the very heart of Munster for centuries. And you’ve a clear sense when you visit its hallowed portals that you’re standing in an edifice that guards the rest of Munster against anyone and anything that might arrive to threaten it from the Atlantic Ocean beyond. A few minutes walk away, literally, and find yourself at the charming Bunratty Castle Hotel, where once again they’ll be celebrating Christmas and ringing in the New

Year in their Medieval manner. And once again, as they did last year, they’ll be welcoming back Rachel Allen for one of her famous cooking demonstrations on December 6th. It’s a wonderful part of the country to base yourself in for a few days holiday at any time of the year. With easy access to the Castle proper, Galway and Connemara to the North, Killarney and the rest of Kerry and Cork to the south, and the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher just around the corner. But at Christmas time, it’s an especially magical part of the world to visit.

DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 27

Recommended Pubs in Munster

The Bierhaus Pope’s Quay, Cork 021 455 1648

There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers.

An Brog

72-73 Oliver Plunkett St, Cork 021 4270074

kingdom there, or base themselves there for its duration.

Jack Meades (under the bridge) Dunmore Rd, Waterford 051 850 950

Set on 5 acres of impeccably kept lawns, this sprawling complex boasts a number of bars. The old world bar it has dates back to 1705, whilst its lime kiln and ice house were built around 1860. But there is also a modern bar, and an extensive beer garden looking down over the gardens and streams. And good quality food is served here throughout the day.

Dick Mack’s

Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry 066 915 1960

An Brog has been attending to fans of alternative and indie music for over 20 years now, and they’ve a constantly evolving roster of Djs and live bands catering to all and every musical taste. And best of all, they are open til 2 in the morning, seven days a week.

Buckley’s Bar

The Arbutus Hotel, College St, Killarney, Co Kerry. 064 6631037

Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub.

Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick 061 314 483 (ext 1)

The oak panelled walls and turf fire are the perfect accompaniment to the many musicians who drop in here for the impromptu sessions that seem to be forever going on here. Both bar and hotel have been welcoming visitors since it opened in 1926. And many people either begin their trip around the

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Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May.

Recommended Restaurants in Munster x

The Old Convent Clogheen, Co Tipperary 052 746 5565

The Lime Tree

Shelbourne St, Kenmare, Co Kerry 064 664 1225

Out of the Blue Dingle Harbour (066) 915 0811.

Hidden away in the village of Clogheen, with the possible exception of the Cashel Palace, this is the finest restaurant in the whole of county Tipperary. Only one sitting at 8pm, and a set tasting menu at 65 Euro, this is quite simply one of the finest dining experiences in Ireland.

Ballymaloe House Shanagarry, Co Cork 021 4652 531

Myrtle Allen bought Ballymaloe in 1948 and she and her extended families have been entertaining and educating the rest of the country ever since. Not cheap by any stretch of the imagination, but whether dining in the restaurant or staying on the grounds, this is about as luxurious as it gets.

Fishy Fishy Café

Crowley’s Quay, Kinsale, Co Cork. 01 470 0415

With the possible exception of Kinsale, Kenmare is Ireland’s unofficial culinary capital. And this is one of the town’s very best restaurants, specializing in wonderfully fresh fish and succulent lamb.

Dromoland Castle

Newmarket-on-Fergus, Co Clare 061 368 144 Quite simply one of the most imposing and impressive castles on these islands, it boasts rooms and a restaurant to match its imperious surroundings.

They serve only only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment.

An Canteen Dykgate st Dingle Tel 0866603778.

Ristorante Rossini 33-4 Princess St, Cork city. 021 427 5818 Kinsale is unquestionably the food capital of Ireland, and this by common consent is one of its finest restaurants. Impeccably fresh fish at reasonable prices.

Isaacs Restaurant McCurtain St, Cork city. 021 450 3805

Hidden away in a budget style hotel, Isaacs has always had a reputation with locals for being a considerably better quality restaurant than you might have expected. And as you’d expect, its very reasonably priced too.

Small quaint front room restaurant with locally sourced high quality ingredients making this little gem a must visit when in Dingle.

The Mustard Seed Ballingarry, Co Limerick 069 68508

About 40 minutes outside of Limerick City, off the Adare road, this is one of those roomy country houses that’s been transformed into a top class hotel and restaurant. One of the finest restaurants in Munster.

La Cucina Antonio Toscano opened this Italian restaurant in the heart of Cork City in 1994, and has always gone out of his way to staff it with his fellow country men and women, from both the North and the South of Italy. And it’s this, together with their extensive menu that makes eating here as close to actually dining in Italy as you could hope to find.

5 University Court, Castletroy, County Limerick. Tel 061 333980 Simply one of the best places for a pizza in the country.

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Explore Munster

Cliffs of Moher

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Blarney Castle

The Hunt Museum

The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore. 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com

Ring of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry ( Irish: Mórchuaird Chiarraí) is not a ring in the conventional sense but a 179-km-long circular tourist route in County Kerry. Clockwise from Killarney it follows the N71 to Kenmare, then the N70 around the Iveragh Peninsula to Killorglin, passing through Sneem, Waterville, Cahersiveen, and Glenbeigh, before returning to Killarney via the N72. The scenery along this route is spectacular to behold and the route takes you through the Gap of Dunloe, the Bog Village, past Rossbeigh Beach, Torc Waterfall, Muckross House, The Blue Pool, Ross Castle, the Ogham Stones, and many more visitor attractions.

Bunratty Castle The Burren

Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. And notwithstanding how impressive an example it is of a medieval castle, this is probably because of the famous stone you will there at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab. Which needless to say they duly receive. 021 438 5252 30 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014

The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again. To Begin to discover the secrets of the Burren, a walk through the Burren Centre Exhibition is essential.

Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past. You can explore at your own leisure or join in a guided tour with the experienced guides. At night time the castle is the impressive setting for the medieval castle banquets which are held all year round.

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The Winterval Festival in Waterford City

Keith Barry

he Winterval Festival returns to Waterford for its third year and runs from November 21st to December 23rd. The international illusionist Keith Barry, very much a Waterford man, is this year’s Festival Ambassador, but he is keeping characteristically tight lipped about the grand illusion he will be performing there on the 29th. Details of the very special illusion have been written down and will be kept under Christmas wrappings whilst they are stored in a tamper-proof exhibition case at the Waterford Museum of Treasures at Bishop’s Palace. Members of the public can guess the 32 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014

illusion in advance, with a chance to win a family prize star package to then attend the festival in style. This is the third year of the seasonal celebrations in Waterford, which have grown year on year to become one of, if not the largest Christmas Festival in Ireland. A festive market featuring 60 log cabins plus a trail of 32 different events, including many free-to-enter, are all available throughout the City for a period of 5 weeks. The list of 32 Christmas-inspired events set to take place during Winterval are featured across a specially devised trail which takes in much of the historical city centre. You can wander in and out of a huge variety of free events including a spectacular 3D lightshow at Palace Square, the spectacle of

a Viking Yuletide, or a trip to the Winterval Toy Museum. A first for this year’s Festival includes a free daily movie screening of Disney’s epic ‘Frozen’, where fans of all ages are invited to sing along to the score of the world conquering hit. Other free events include a giant Singing Christmas Tree filled with choirs and live music, and a trip to one of the Storytelling sessions at Reginald’s Tower. Whilst some of the ticketed events include; trips on Santa’s Horse Drawn Sleigh or the magical Winterval Express, the South Pole Enchanted Garden, a snow fantasy in the Snowglobe, and of course the chance to meet the main man himself with a magical visit to Santa’s Grotto at the city’s medieval undercrofts.

Christmas Shoppers will also get the chance to indulge in some good old-fashioned retail therapy at the Winterval Market, which will be mirroring the medieval tradition of the city of Waterford where end-of-year markets sprung up as social gatherings so that people could enjoy a little excess before the onset of the bitter weather to come. The Market features some 60 beautifully decorated traditional log cabins specially built for the festival, which will host an offering of the very best quality and range of goods in food and craft. For those of you looking to shed one or two of the many calories that are sure to be added, the best Ice Rink this side of the North Pole is back and it’s bigger and better than ever. Waterford on Ice returns for yet another year of great family fun and thanks to Waterford Crystal you’ll be able to skate around a spectacular display in the centre of the ice rink at the city’s Quayside. Alternatively, you could quote enjoy unquote a ride on our vintage Ferris wheel! This spectacular contraption will allow you to gaze down and take in all the historic landmarks and the

wonderful Winterval events as they go on about the place beneath you. Finally, Waterford has a vibrant and expansive Polish community that are going to bring Poland’s culture, traditions and food to life in a Polish Christmas Pop up Village at Michael Street. The Craft Market there

will offer a wide range of unique pieces of fashion and homeware, using techniques like crocheting, knitting, silk painting and decoupage, to produce soutache jewellery, beeswax candles, portraits, and illustrations.

Go to www.winterval.ie

DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 33

The Christmas Market at the Milk Market in Limerick

imerick, it has to be admitted, has suffered from something of a bad reputation. Which is a little unfair, as it’s really not that much worse than most bustling cities. Part of the problem is simply where it is situated. To its south, you have the wilds and vast expanse of the wonderful wilderness on display in counties Kerry and Cork. To its north, there’s Galway and the wilds of Connemara. And on your way there, there’s the prelapsarian moonscape that is the Burren, and the spectacular Cliffs of Moher. Every time you pass through Limerick you’ve a sense that all you are doing is just that, passing through, on your way to any one of its wonderful neighbouring scenic sites of delight. But over the last decade of so Limerick has enjoyed something of a transformation. Fashionable coffee houses have sprung up around the city centre, and a number of smart, cosmopolitan bars have opened up to compliment the more traditional pubs that the city is more usually associated with. And as with drink, so too with food. The city’s Milk Market has similarly been rejuvenated. And 34 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014

will be a huge boost to both the traders who’ve set up their stall there, as well to the city in general. And all and any manner of ware will be on show. Christmas crafts and gifts, quality festive and speciality foods, collectables, bric-a-brac, toys, books, vintage fashion, seasonal decorations and anything at all that might be deemed “unusual”. The Christmas Market will operate in Limerick every week from 5th to 12th December, 12th to 14th December and daily from December 17th to the 24th during Christmas week until Christmas Eve. It will feature up to 60 stalls and shops, all packed with a wide range of artisan food, craft and gift possibilities and all set within a wonderful, fun, festive environment. Not only that, but the Milk Market is an all-weather venue so all the shoppers gathered there will, happily, be spared from the elements. appropriately enough, given the season, they are holding a special Christmas Market there throughout most of the month of December. Thousands of shoppers are expected during the four weeks that the Market is on for, which

Go to www.MilkMarketLimerick.ie

Welcome To Connaught

Ancient stone walls in the Aran Islands

he province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran

Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Connaught has some of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the film ‘The Quiet The Claddagh by night Man ‘ was filmed, and the natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a must for all. For those interested in a religious experience Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist

are reputed to have appeared. The apparition was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged from six years to seventy-five and included men, women and children. The shrine has become so popular in modern times that the Ireland West International Airport was built especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to Connaught. The county also features the pilgrimage site known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to the present day without interruption. Croagh Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom of trekking up the mountain has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside with magnificent views of Clew Bay beneath. So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught has it all.

DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 35

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Recommended Restaurants in Connaught

Kai Café

Sea Rd. Galway city. 091 526 003

Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West.

The Cottage Restaurant Jamestown, Co. Leitrim. 071 962 5933

Head chef Sham Hanifa’s sauces are so well regarded, you can buy jars of them to take away with you after your meal. Originally from Malaysia, he’s been here in Leitrim for over 14 years and applies his culinary skills to the local Irish produce that are native to the West.

Ashford Castle

Cong, Co. Mayo. 094 954 6003 Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906.

Upstairs @ West Restaurant The Twelve, Barna, Galway city. 091 597000 David and Jessica Murphy’s restaurant in the heart of Galway has justly won a mountain of awards over the last couple of years, including Restaurant of the Year in 2012. Of the many, many who sing its praises, John McKenna wrote, “It’s vital food, packed with good energy, and it lifts you up to eat it because it’s so simple and elemental.”

Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit.

Waterfront House Restaurant Enniscrone, County Sligo. 096 37120

Eala Bhán

Rockwood Parade, Sligo town. 071 914 5823

If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell.

The Yew Tree Restaurant

Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon. 090 666 1255 Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food.

An Port Mór Restaurant

1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo. 098 26730

The Waterfront House Restaurant boasts one of the most outstanding sea views in Ireland. You can wine, dine and relax as you peer out over the 5km beach overlooking Killala Bay. Since it opened in 2011 the Seaview Restaurant and Wine Bar have become popular with locals and visitors alike. Fresh Seafood is a specialty. DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 37

Recommended Pubs in Connaught

Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons) 17 Cross st, Galway 091 568 820

Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.

The Quays

11 Quay St, Galway 091 568 347

Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now!

Furey’s Pub Bridge St, Sligo 087 958 3080

Furey’s is located in the centre of Sligo, and is your no nonsense, strictly Irish trad music only, Irish pub. And they are as keen on real beer as they are on serious music, offering up an impressive choice craft beers.

Bosh Bar and Restaurant Don’t be put off by the reams of tourists that flock here all year round, there’s a reason that this pub enjoys such a lofty reputation. It looks and feels exactly like an Irish pub should. And be sure to check out the back of the pub which has been decked out with stained glass and wooden pews borrowed from a Medieval French church!

Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo 094 925 0534

Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar.

Roísín Dubh

Matt Malloy’s

Lower Dominick St., Galway 091 586 540

Bridge St., Westport 098 26655

It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ

This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within.

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Fisherman Out of Ireland, Ballymoon, Kilcar, County Donegal, Ireland Tel.: +353 74 973 8233, Fax: +353 74 973 8236 E-mail: info@fishermanoutofireland.com, Web: www.fishermanoutofireland.com

Winter Wonderland at the historic Westport House

estport House is found just to the West of Castlebar, where it looks out over the Atlantic Ocean. It’s one of the finest country houses you will find anywhere on the West coast, and since it opened to the public in the 1960s over four million visitors have passed through its doors. Which is hardly surprising, as the house boasts a superb parkland setting with a lake, terraces, wonderful gardens and stunning views overlooking Clew Bay, the Atlantic Ocean, and beyond to Achill and Clare Island. Indeed, the 18th century house stands on the grounds of one of Grace O’Malley, the pirate Queen’s castles, from where she reigned two centuries earlier. There can hardly be a more spectacular backdrop against which to entertain the family, as the younger members of the household become increasingly fixated with meeting a certain jolly gentleman and his many helpers who make their way here, and indeed to every other house across the land, at this time of the year. The whole house and its grounds will be transformed into a veritable winter wonderland, as Mr Claus, his wife Mrs Claus and the many elves who

40 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014

will be there to help them are all there to greet you on your arrival, between Saturday November 29th, until Christmas Eve. Whether your little darlings have been naughty or nice, they will receive a special gift from Santa when they pay him a visit at his grotto which has been specially prepared for him in the magnificent house. And naturally there’ll be a glass or two of something warming for the parents as they do so. Plus there’ll be storytelling and sing-songs by the fireside, led by Mrs Claus as well as festive face painting with the resident cool-as-ice snow(wo)man. And if you’re looking for something a bit more energetic, you can always take the Westport House Express miniature railway around the lakeside and the grounds outside, to enjoy wonderful views of the house and its environs. As ever, Westport House will also be honouring the true spirit of Christmas by renewing their tradition of a Christmas Wish Tree, where families are invited to write their wishes, and for every family wish collected there they will donate €1 to the Mayo Roscommon Hospice.

Go to www.westporthouse.ie

Explore Connaught

Kylemore Abbey

Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic walled garden. The castle was bought by the Benedictine nuns in 1920. The Victorian walled garden was re-opened in 1999 and won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food. This is a gem and should definitely be at the top of any visitors list.

Glencar Waterfall

Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. As you reach Glencar which straddles the border between counties Sligo and Leitrim with its dramatic steep cliffs, you will notice a series of waterfalls cascading from the heights. Glencar waterfall is perhaps the most dramatic, descending from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.

Inishbofin Island

Inishbofin (island of the white cow) is situated seven miles off the Galway coastline and is an extremely popular tourist attraction.The island is 5.7km by 4km, and has three official looped walks of varying difficulties, each offering spectacular views of the island’s wild Atlantic scenery. The island also has several safe, award winning sandy beaches, and its clear waters make swimming, snorkelling and diving a joy. Two of the beaches on Inishbofin have been awarded the ‘Green Coast Award’, prized for their exceptional water quality and their natural, unspoilt environment.

Croagh Patrick

Connemara

Mullaghmore

Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Indeed, on 8 March 2012, surfers and windsurfers from all over the world rode waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable. And it is overlooked by the majestic Ben Bulbin mountain.

Connemara is one of God’s gifts to this world with unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the North through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean. Connemara’s land boundary with the rest of County Galway is marked by the Invermore River which flows into the north of Kilkieran Bay.

Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside. You get spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding Mayo countryside from all stages as you climb. Widely considered the holiest mountain in Ireland, pilgrimages date all the way back to the time of the pagans, when people are thought to have gathered here to celebrate the beginning of harvest season. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year. 098 64114

DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 41

Welcome to Ulster

Marble Arch Caves

he Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise.

is the most notable. The famous mountains or ‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland. Giants Causeway

Malin Head

County Donegal is in the northwest of the Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly 42 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014

County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the new

Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Belfast City Hall

Explore Ulster

Titanic Belfast

Since it opened in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, and over a million visitors went through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six story building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the very site where the famous ship was first built. Once you enter the building proper, you’re introduced to the building’s giant atrium surrounded by the four “ships”, hull shaped wings which act as the beginning of the Titanic experience. Your journey will then take you through the building’s nine galleries, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end. The story is brought up to the present with the discovery of the wreck, and into the future with live links to contemporary undersea exploration. And the galleries employ a variety of interactive media including CGI, film, audio, artefacts and full-scale replicas. Not only that, there’s an actual ride through the Titanic giving you a view of how the ship was physically put together. Tel 028 9076 6386

The Giant’s Causeway

The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast north of the town of Bushmills. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to the East to take on a giant who lived over there. Voted by BBC Radio listeners as the fourth greatest natural wonder in the UK, visitors flock here from all over the world to marvel at one of Europe’s most magnificent coastlines and its unique rock formations, which have stood as a natural rampart against the unbridled ferocity of Atlantic storms for millions of years. The rugged symmetry of the columns never fails to intrigue and inspire people. And to stroll along the Giants Causeway is to voyage back in time. In 1986 they opened the Giants Causeway Visitors centre, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its coveted list of sites, which are of exceptional interest and universal value. And the National Trust which oversees the Causeway provides the half million tourists who go there every year with any and all the information that they might need.

The Old Bushmills Distillery In 1608, King James I of England granted Sir Thomas Phillipps a license to distil whiskey, and Bushmills became the first ever distillery in the world to begin officially producing it. “Whiskey” with an “e” is Irish by the way, and without is Scotch. And the word itself originated from the Irish word for water, “uisce”. Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. In 2008, Bushmills celebrated the 400th anniversary of their original licence to distil whiskey. They marked the occasion with the release of a limited edition Irish whiskey of exceptional smoothness, Bushmills 1608. Today Bushmills Irish Whiskey is owned by Diageo, and over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens. Tel 028 2073 3218

Ulster American Folk Park

Situated at the base of the Sperrin mountain range just 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories. Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier. Meet an array of costumed characters on your way with traditional crafts to show, tales to tell and food to share. And you can also avail of the facilities at the residential centre and museum restaurant. They offer an array of ensuite rooms, and dorms that sleep up to 7 in bunk beds, with linen, laundry and drier rooms, plus kitchens, bathrooms, and TV, DVD and games rooms. Museum: +44 (0) 28 8224 3292 Residential centre: +44 (0)28 8224 0918

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The All Ireland One Act Drama Finals in Donegal

reland boasts one of the proudest literary traditions anywhere in the world, with a justly deserved reputation for producing novels and plays of outstanding and lasting value. And just as the novel has the less well known but frequently equally interesting short story as its sister form, so too the traditional play has the one act drama which can be every bit as challenging to write and produce, and can often result in works that are just as compelling to watch. This year’s One Act Finals are returning to Ballyshannon, in County Donegal. The last time there were held here was back in 1996, when the dozen or so one act dramas that made it to the finals that year were adjudicated by the late Patsy Croal. This year’s adjudicator is Martin Maguire, the accomplished actor, director and playwright. Maguire has acted on film, television, stage and 44 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014

radio, appearing regularly at the Abbey and the Gate theatres in Dublin, and on a host of RTE television programmes, including The Clinic, The Tudors, Fair City and Glenroe. Most recently, he performed in the Playboy of the Western World with Blue Raincoat Theatre Company in Sligo. The One Act Finals take place at the Abbey Centre in Ballyshannon between December 4th and the 7th. Eleven lucky groups will make their way to the Donegal town having qualified from a series of trials that began on October 24th, when the One Act Drama Festival began its competitive and much prized circuit at qualifying Festivals at Birr and Kilmallock. Nightly performances start in Ballyshannon at 8 pm on the Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, and at 1.30 pm on Sunday afternoon. But it won’t all be work there. The opening of the festival coincides with the turning on of the Christmas lights in the

town. And to mark the occasion, there will be a Mulled Wine and Mince Pies Reception with Carol Singing in the Abbey Centre at 7 pm. There will also be a Festival Club each night at the Dorrian’s Imperial Hotel, on Main Street, which is just around the corner from the Abbey Centre. But be prepared, you should try to come with your very own ‘Party Piece’, a song, poem, reading or joke of your own choice. The good news is, there will be prizes for the best ones. Plus, there are all sorts of fringe events, including Cartoon and Storytelling Workshops for Children, a Craft Fair with local artisans and demonstrations, Craft Beer Tasting and Sunday Morning Jazz.

Book tickets on 087 3420301 Or go to www.oneactfinals.ie

Ulster Recommended Pubs

The Crown Liquor Saloon 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast 028 9024 3187

Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin.

White’s Tavern

2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast 028 9024 3080 Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down.

Kelly’s Cellars 30-32 Bank St, Belfast 028 9024 6058

Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food.

The John Hewitt 51 Donegall St., Belfast 028 9023 3768

This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city.

The Duke Of York 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast 028 9024 1062

One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and

whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further.

Peadar O’Donnell’s 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry 028 7126 7295

There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore. Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry.

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Recommended Restaurants in Ulster

1 Oxford St, Belfast. 0044 28 9031 4121 Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.

spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

The Ginger Bistro

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast. 0044 28 9031 1150 Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining

7-8 Hope St, Belfast. 0044 28 9024 4421

55 Degrees North

1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim. 0044 28 7082 2811

experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers.

Vanilla Restaurant

The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger.

Deane’s Restaurant

36-40 Howard St, Belfast. 0044 28 9033 1134

67 Main St, Newcastle. 0044 28 4372 2268

Shu

253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast. 0044 28 9038 1655 They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table.

Telfords Restaurant

Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast. 0044 28 9043 4000 Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

Lough Erne Resort

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh. 0044 28 6632 3230

Sun Kee Restaurant

42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast. 0044 28 9031 2016 One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics.

Lusty Beg

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh. 0044 28 6863 3300

This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most

This island spa is set on a 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

Sakura, 82 Botanic Av, Belfast

0044 28 9043 9590 In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant.

Speranza Restaurant, 16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast 044 28 9023 0213 Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.

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Derry Joins in on the Christmas Fun

kay, well let’s first address the proverbial elephant in the room. Is it Derry, or Londonderry? Broadly speaking, nationalists call it Derry, and Unionists Londonderry. But on the one hand, it’s peopled predominantly by nationalists, who all call it Derry. But on the other, it’s officially part of the United Kingdom, hence, at least for the moment, very much part of the Union. But then again, this is a southern publication that you’re reading, and I’m a proudly lapsed Catholic, so naturally I and we think of it as Derry and take great pride in looking consciously confused when anyone aligns it with a capital city in a foreign country. And while we’re on the subject, just in case you’re confused, here in the South, we talk about the North. Whereas for Unionists in the six counties, they insist, quite rightly, on referring to us as being in the Republic, and to themselves as inhabiting Northern Ireland. Both of which are the legal designations of the two areas. But to quote Mr T, enough of this jibber jabber. Whatever you want to call it, Derry is a charming, compact city whose centre you can comfortable amble

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around on foot. And like everywhere else in the North (ie in Northern Ireland) it’s become significantly more relaxed since the Peace process began some two decades ago, and has enjoyed something of a cultural renaissance. The city is built on and around the river Foyle, but its most distinctive feature, indeed its defining characteristic are its city walls, which continue to this day to encircle it. Dating back to the early 17th century, they are over one and half kilometers long, and can be entered through any one of the seven gates that continue to stand guard over the city. Indeed, they are the only Medieval walls in any European city that have never been breached, and remain entirely intact. And that sense of defiance and pride is what defines the people who live here. Like many other of the larger cities on the island of Ireland, Derry has their Christmas Market for you to wander around as well. Which is just one more reason to make the effort to head up to one of the less well known corners of the island. But you won’t be disappointed by what you find here and by the welcome that they’ll give you, regardless of what you call it.

TOURS

EVENTS

GENEALOGY

EDUCATION

GLASNEVIN CEMETERY & MUSEUM

www.glasnevintrust.ie For further information contact T: +353 (0)1 882 6550 E: booking@glasnevinmuseum.ie

Belfast Botanic Gardens

stone’s throw away from Queen’s University in the heart of Belfast, the Botanic Gardens sit on 28 acres of perfectly tended lawns and gardens. You can call in to the Ulster Museum on your way in if you like, which is located at its main entrance. But most of the students, tourists and locals who visit tend to make their way in to the gardens proper, for a quiet lunch or a gentle stroll. At the heart of the Gardens is the Palm House conservatory, which was built by Richard Turner in 1840. It was one of the very earliest curvilinear, cast iron glasshouses built anywhere in the world. Turner would subsequently take what he had learnt from the buildings he had put up in Belfast when he then went on to construct the famous glasshouses that still stand at Kew in England, as well as the ones he also went on to build in Glasnevin in Dublin. The Palm House is made up of two wings, the cool wing, and the tropical wing which is where you’ll find the large dome which was added there in 1852. And just around the corner, you can visit the Tropical Ravine House, which was added by the then Head Gardener Charles McKimm in 1889. It was he who insisted on the sunken ravine that runs from one end to the other, allowing for that extra bit of height to further cultivate the exotic plants within. But a few years later the Gardens went bankrupt, and in 1895 they were taken over by the cIty Council who have been running them ever since. Technically speaking, you are not supposed to drink alcohol 50 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014

anywhere in the Gardens. But very occasionally, you can spot a stray student sneaking the odd can of something that they oughtn’t strictly to be drinking. And of late, the Gardens have been used as the venue for a series of highly successful gigs. U2 played here in 1997 as they took their PopMart Tour across the world, and were supported by local favourites Ash. And for a number of years, the ViTal Festival was held in the Gardens, which saw the likes of The White Stripes, the Kings Of Leon and The Coral as well as Belfast band Snow Patrol appear. But those are rare bursts of noise in what is generally an oasis of tranquility. So whether you are looking for somewhere to escape to for a quick lunchtime break, or for somewhere to retreat to for an entire afternoon of peace and quiet spent amongst the calm and fragrance of the beautiful Rose garden, which was added in 1932, the Botanic Gardens are the ideal spot to rest your weary limbs and recharge those batteries.

See www.belfastcity.gov.uk

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