Travel Ireland Volume 6 Issue 70

Travelireland ireland magazine

Volume 6 Issue 70 February 2020

Irish Wars 1919 – 1923 The National Museum’s Excellent Exhibition

Cork’s Quality Quarter Block Party

Follow in the Footsteps of Giants at Antrim’s World Class Causeway

Free Celtic Imbolc Festival

Ireland’s Pilgrim Paths A Unique Look into Irish History

at Hook Lighthouse

Full Steam Ahead on Casino Model Railway Museum

The Lieutenant of Inishmore at the Gaiety

Pat Liddy

Tells the Story of the Great Famine

Cork’s Crawford Art Gallery to Host Some Perfect Portraits

CONTENTS

4 Welcome to Leinster 6 National Museum Exhibition 8 Theatre – Dublin 10 The Lieutenant of Inishmore 12 The Great Famine by Pat Liddy 14 Hook Lighthouse 16 Casino Model Railway Museum 18 Explore Leinster 20 Leinster Restaurants 22 Leinster Bars 24 Welcome to Munster 26 Theatre – Rest of Ireland 27 Cobh Heritage Centre 28 Quarter Block Party 30 Crawford Art Gallery Exhibition 32 Munster Bars 33 Munster Restaurants 34 Explore Munster 36 Welcome to Connaught 37 Connaught Bars 38 Shopping 40 Explore Connaught 41 Connaught Restaurants 42 Ireland’s Pilgrim Paths 44 Welcome to Ulster 45 Ulster Bars 46 Ulster Restaurants 47 Explore Ulster 48 Giant’s Causeway 50 Great Irish Writers

Ellen Media Communications Ltd Suite 4, Talbot Business Centre, 19 Talbot St , Dublin 1.

Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag

Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome to our February issue!

Whether this is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here.

In our latest issue, we shine a spotlight on some fantastic attractions and events on offer across the country. These include Hook Lighthouse’s Celtic Imbolc Festival in Wexford, Cork City’s Quarter Block Party, two terrific exhibitions in the National Museum of Ireland and the Crawford Art Gallery and the newly opened Casino Model Railway Museum in Malahide, Dublin.

We also give readers the low down on the best theatre to see, including The Lieutenant of Inishmore at the Gaiety. Meanwhile, Pat Liddy tells the story of the Great Famine as the magazine spotlights the natural wonder that is the Giant’s Causeway, as well as Ireland’s many pilgrim paths.

Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heartfelt céad míle fáilte and hope you enjoy your stay.

Taisteal sásta (Happy Travels).

48 6

30

Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Stephen Porzio (stephen@ellenmediacom.ie) Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Contributors: Pat Liddy, Angeline Le Mercier, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’ , Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin, Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael McLaughlin, Roma Keeley.

We wish to record our thanks to Michael Bates, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition.

We would also like to thank Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and 10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images.

Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.

FEBRUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

3

Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see.

County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife.

All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city.

If you want to escape to the country without

GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country.

County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre.

The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach.

County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically

4

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

Phoenix Park, Dublin over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions.

Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland.

Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world.

Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College.

Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone.

Laois is where you can try your hand at a range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum.

Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor.

St Kevin’s Church, Glendalough

Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land.

Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June.

Round Tower, Glendalough Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base.

Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula.

So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!

MATTHEW WELDON

Antique, vintage and estate jewellery

Matthew.weldons Courtville - Matthew Weldon Antique Gallery, Powerscourt Townhouse, 59 South William Street, Dublin 2 Website - www.matthewweldon.ie | Telephone 00353 (1) 6794042

‘E Coy A.S.U 3RD Batt., Dublin Brigade IRA patrolling on Grafton Street, July 1921’

IRISH WARS 1919 – 1923

The National Museum’s Excellent Exhibition The refurbished Irish Wars 1919 – 1923 exhibition is currently on display at the National Museum of Ireland – Decorative Arts & History in Collins Barracks.

T

he collection forms part of the permanent exhibition Soldiers and Chiefs. Yet, it has been substantially reimagined in conjunction with the museum’s Decade of Centenaries Commemorations.

Visitors to the exhibition will see more than 50 newly displayed objects, new graphics and AV elements, as well as some new topics of discussion including civil disobedience, imprisonment, hunger strike, propaganda, women in warfare and the effects of the conflict on civilian populations. The probing of these subject matters aims to increase public understanding of this complex period in Ireland’s history.

6

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

Items returning to display from the National Museum of Ireland’s reserve collection after 15 years include the death masks of Arthur Griffith, Michael Collins, Cathal Brugha and Terence MacSwiney. The exhibition will also feature two key artefacts on loan from private family collections. One of these is an IRA Intelligence File which has been digitised and shown publicly for the first time. The other is hair shorn from a woman in a ‘bobbing’ or ‘punishment shearing’, found in the possession of Michael Barry when he was arrested in 1920.

Other objects new to the exhibition include the note written by Arthur

Griffith on the signing of the AngloIrish Treaty declaring ‘The end of the conflict of centuries is at hand’; the RIC handcuffs worn by Seán Hogan when he was rescued by the Tipperary Brigade IRA at Knocklong in 1919; experimental weapons made by the IRA; items used in escapes from Lincoln, Mountjoy and Kilmainham prisons; and the propeller of the British aeroplane destroyed at Kilfinane, Co. Tipperary in 1921.

The exhibition is supported by a wide range of multi-media. This includes contemporary newsreel film provided by the Irish Film Institute. The footage features stop and searches, funerals, IRA captures and destruction from the period between 1919 and 1923.

Dr Maurice Manning, Chair of the Expert Advisory Group on Centenary Commemorations said of the exhibition in a statement: “There are many different perspectives and views as to how these

very complex events, and all whose lives were affected during this period, should be remembered. Throughout the Decade of Centenaries, as a people, we have shown great maturity and understanding in exploring our past, embracing its complexities and nuances in an inclusive and respectful manner.”

“Our National Cultural Institutions have a very important role in this process as custodians of our history and culture. They create opportunities for people of all ages and traditions to explore and reflect upon this divisive period in our history. The National Museum has delivered on this in this exhibition by presenting our history in that measured tone which is so essential.”

Catherine Heaney, Chair of the National Museum of Ireland, added: “As a National Cultural Institution, the museum’s role in the Decade of Centenaries is to explore important themes and elements of the centenaries through the objects and material heritage in our collection. In putting these objects on display, we intend to provide a contemplative and considered space for our visitors to remember and engage in conversation and to increase their understanding of our history.”

Also speaking about the exhibition,

All Photographs Courtesy National Museum of Ireland

‘Pistol Hidden in Book’ Discover the fight for Ireland’s independence through both military action and civil disobedience

‘Michael Collins’ Rosary’ The Irish Civil War divided former comrades on the future of the Irish State

Lynn Scarff, Director of the National Museum of Ireland, said: “This exhibition explores a very sensitive time in our history, one that we are all still learning about as a country and coming to terms with. We are particularly grateful to the donors who have generously loaned the National Museum of Ireland the IRA intelligence file and the shorn hair found in the possession of Michael Barry.”

Brenda Malone, Curator of the Irish Wars 1919 – 1923, added: “A distinct aspect of the reimagined exhibition is the focus on the personal stories of ordinary people, involved in atrocities and tragedies on both sides of the conflict. In developing it, we had the opportunity to expand and develop traditionally underrepresented stories, like the role of women in the conflict.”

The Soldiers and Chiefs exhibition opened in 2006 to the acclaim of both

the public and the museum sector. It has attracted in excess of 2 million visitors since opening and won the Irish Heritage Council and Northern Ireland Museums Council best exhibition award. It remains the largest single exhibition to be created in Ireland, featuring over a thousand objects displayed and interpreted over eight galleries, covering 1700m2 of space in both the old barracks dormitory block and a newer state-of-the-art two-storey build – the Military Annex.

Like all the museum’s exhibitions, entry to the Irish Wars 1919 – 1923 collection is free. For more information about it, see www.museum.ie/ Decorative-Arts-History/Exhibitions/ Current-Exhibitions/Irish-Wars-1919%E2%80%93-1923. Meanwhile, visit www.museum.ie for details of the National Museum’s other ongoing events and activities.

FEBRUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

7

Theatre Bord Gáis Energy Theatre Priscilla Queen of the Desert

Iconic musical Priscilla Queen of the Desert – adapted from the acclaimed 1994 film - comes to the Bord Gáis as part of its tour of the UK and Ireland. Starring Strictly Come Dancing winner Joe McFadden (Holby City, Casualty, Heartbeat), Priscilla is the adventure of three friends who hop aboard a battered old bus bound for the Outback to put on the show of a lifetime. With more glitter than ever before, this smash-hit show features a dazzling array of stunning costumes, fabulous feathers and a non-stop parade of dance-floor classics including ‘Hot Stuff ’, ‘I Will Survive’, ‘I Love the Nightlife’ and ‘Finally’.

psychological drama. Focusing on an upmarket London family, a plastic surgeon has embarked on his latest charitable mission, leaving his wife alone with their troubled 8-year-old son. An Irish nanny arrives on the scene with her own agenda, leading to a climactic ending where tensions boil over.

Dates: Feb 27 – Mar 21 Tel 01 874 4045 or visit www.gatetheatre.ie Also at the Gate this month: Medea Jan 30 – Feb 22

The Olympia Theatre

David McSavage / The Night Joe Dolan’s Car Broke Down

Ireland. He loves his cat more than life itself, and someone is going to pay. Set in the 1990s, The Lieutenant of Inishmore is a clever satire on terrorism, the beautification of violence in contemporary culture and a hilarious farce in true Martin McDonagh (In Bruges; Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri) fashion.

For more information, see page 10.

Dates: Jan 27 – Mar 14 Tel: 0818 719 388 or visit www.gaietytheatre.ie

Smock Alley Theatre Scene + Heard Festival

Also at the Bord Gais this month: Swan Lake Feb 10 - 15, The Sleeping Beauty Feb 12, The Nutcracker Feb 13, Blood Brothers Feb 18 - 29

Scene + Heard is a Dublin 8 based festival that showcases the best tasters of never before seen theatre, comedy and music from all over Ireland.

Programming a variety of wild and wonderful performances within an hour at very happy prices, the public then chooses which they like best and are able to give feedback in a myriad of ways.

The Abbey Theatre

Dates: Feb 12 - 29 Tel 01 677 0014 or visit www.smockalley.com

Dates: Feb 3 - 8 Tel: 01 677 7999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie

Hansel and Gretel

The lure of a gingerbread house, the frightening hocus pocus of the predatory witch and the smarts of the children who triumph in the end … all are wrapped up in the delicious sounds of Engelbert Humperdinck’s operatic masterpiece.

One of the greatest operas about children, Hansel and Gretel is sweet and beguiling, combining childlike simplicity with heartaching beauty. Irish National Opera, Theatre Lovett and the Abbey Theatre collaborate on this compelling production, reimagined in a mysterious modern setting. Don’t be fooled.

This is a story of greed and starvation, mouthwateringly sugar-coated.

Dates: Feb 8 – 15 Tel: 01 887 2200 or visit www.abbeytheatre.ie Also at the Abbey this month: What I (Don’t) Know About Autism Feb 1 – 8, The Fall of the Second Republic Feb 24 – Mar 14

The Gate Theatre Our New Girl

As part of the Olympia’s packed February programme, Irish comedian David McSavage (The Savage Eye) is back with his brand new stand up show Poor Me and the Bastards.

Focusing on topics like online dating, poor life choices and self-improvement, it sees McSavage at his most brilliantly funny while walking happily towards his inevitable doom.

Meanwhile, hit music and comedy show The Night Joe Dolan’s Car Broke Down is returning to the venue. It tells the story of a rural pub in Cavan that unexpectedly receives a knock on its door from legendary Irish singer Joe Dolan, bringing the night’s entertainment to a whole new level.

Dates: Feb 13 / Feb 18 - 23 Tel: 01 679 3323 or visit www.olympia.ie Also at the Olympia this month: Billionaire Boy Feb 5 – 9, Keith Barry – Insanity Mar 5 - 7

The Gaiety Theatre

The Lieutenant of Inishmore

Also at Smock Alley this month: Zandra, Queen of Jazz Feb 2 – 3, Grimm Tales Feb 5 – 8,

Dlr Mill Theatre Eclipsed

Eclipsed by Patricia Burke Brogan is set in a Magdalene laundry during the 1960’s, one inspired by the playwright’s own experience as a young novitiate. The show highlights the plight of four women who struggle to bear the austerity of their existence and desire to break the shackles of this landmark of societal repression. Described as poignant, funny, moving and sad, the play is said to starkly remind audiences of the brutal intolerance of ‘female deviance’ in our country’s not so distant past, while also detailing a journey of friendship, love, hope and survival.

Dates: Feb 4 - 8 Tel 01 296 9340 or visit www.milltheatre.ie

Irish writer Nancy Harris (The Red Shoes and The Beacon) returns to the Gate stage with the national premiere of her new startling 8

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

On a lonely road on the island of Inishmore, someone killed Mad Padraic’s cat. He’ll want to know who when he gets back from a stint of torture and chip-shop bombing in Northern

Also at the Mill Theatre this month: All My Sons Feb 11 – 15, Alone it Stands Feb 19 – 22, Romeo and Juliet Feb 27 – Mar 13, The Complete Works of Shakespeare (Abridged) Feb 27 – 29, Schmidt Happens Feb 27 - 28, Baz Ashmawy’s Family Matters Feb 29 – Mar 1.

Stars to Meet

The Lieutenant Of Inishmore at the Gaiety

An ensemble cast including Alex Murphy (one half of The Young Offenders), Aisling Kearns (Asking for It, Darklands), Cillian O’Gairbhi (Blood), Don Wycherley (Bachelors Walk, Sing Street) and Paul Mescal (lead of the upcoming TV series Normal People) are currently starring in the Gaiety Theatre’s production of Martin McDonagh’s The Lieutenant of Inishmore.

D

irected by frequent McDonagh collaborator Andrew Flynn, the play is running now until March 14. While the Gaiety has a long history of co-producing plays, this is the second adaptation of the playwright the theatre has produced on their own, following early 2019 smash hit The Cripple of Inishmaan.

“The Cripple of Inishmaan did incredibly well,” said Caroline Downey, owner of the Gaiety, at the cast announcement on October 21 of last year. “It was a remarkable piece of theatre. It was beautifully directed and acted. The staging alone got an applause on opening night. So, we thought to continue on in the Gaiety producing our own plays.”

Summing up the plot of the 90s set The

10

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

Lieutenant of Inishmore, director Andrew Flynn said: “It’s a hilarious savagely funny play about Mad Padraic who has left Inishmore to become one of the head men in the IRA. But he’s too mad for the IRA and the one thing in the world he loves most is his cat. When his cat gets ill, Padraic makes a return to Inishmore and, in typical Martin fashion, everything goes kind of wild.”

Newcomer Paul Mescal stars as Mad Padraic. Director Andrew Flynn was effusive in his praise for his leading man, an actor who just recently finished filming with Oscar-nominated director Lenny Abrahamson. Mescal will star in the filmmaker’s TV adaptation of Sally Rooney’s acclaimed novel Normal People.

“Martin wrote Mad Padraic as a 21-yearold man. Somewhere along the line, the

role seemed to be played by people in their thirties,” said Flynn. “When we started, we said: ‘Let’s go back to where Martin started.’ Luckily, this young man [Mescal] came into the room and blew us apart. He’s a fantastic actor. I can’t wait to work with him.”

Joining Mescal is Aisling Kearns, another star on the rise. She plays Mairead, a feisty teenage girl in love with Padraic. Kearns appeared on the Gaiety stage in the leading role for Asking for It and in Virgin Media One’s TV series Darklands in 2019. On top of the actors mentioned above, Cillian Lenaghan, Desmond Eastwood and Padraig O’Grady round out the cast.

Tickets cost from €18.50 and are on sale now. They can be bought in person at the Gaiety Theatre box office and at Ticketmaster outlets, over the phone by calling 08 18 719 388 and online by visiting Ticketmaster.ie.

For more information on The Lieutenant of Inishmore playwright Martin McDonagh, see our Great Irish Writers section on page 50.

The Story of the Great Famine

by Pat Liddy

Ireland is probably the only country in the world with less population today than it had 175 years ago. In 1845, thanks to advances in medical science, the population had risen to around 8.5 million on the whole island. Then in the late 1840s, the disastrous Great Famine, also known as the Irish Potato Famine, struck down the more vulnerable, deprived sectors of Irish society and within a few years resulted in well over a million deaths followed by vast numbers leaving mostly rural Ireland for the distant shores of America, Canada, South America and Australia - around 40 million Americans today claim Irish descent. Many more left for England, the county then seen as the oppressors of the emigrants’ native country.

T

he numbers on the island of Ireland sunk to about four million by the 1950s. Since then, thanks to net immigration and a higher than European-average birthrate, the population is now close to 7 million and still rising. However, if we compare ourselves to England we still have a lot of ground to make up! In 1845 the population of our neighbour was about 16 million (double Ireland’s) but is now around 56 million (8 times that of Ireland!). So what then was this awful famine that had such a

12

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

profound and devastating effect on our demographics?

Following its eventual conquest of the whole of Ireland, a process which began in the late 12th century, England dispossessed the majority of the native Irish from their own landholdings. By the 18th century the Irish peasantry, especially in the west and south of the country, were reduced to the status of impoverished tenant farmers, wandering craftsmen or unemployed beggars.

Large families, whose able-bodied male members worked as little better than

slaves on the vast estates of the rich gentry, lived in atrocious conditions in mud cabins or tiny thatched cottages on the periphery of the great properties.

They were given a tiny acreage to grow what crops might sustain them and the staple food of choice was the potato. Originally imported from Peru in the 16th century the potato is one of the richest sources of vitamins, fibre, minerals and carbohydrates. But this very dependency on mostly a single crop was what led to the downfall of this very fragile society.

In 1845, a plant disease called potato blight spread from South America and then North America and across the Atlantic to Europe. It spread rapidly destroying both leaves and the edible tubers of the growing and stored potatoes and wiped out people’s main sustenance within weeks. To make matters worse the blight reappeared with ferocious intensity over the next six years. People died in their hundreds of thousands from hunger and resultant illnesses such as typhus and cholera. All

this happened when there was ample food in the county such as meat and cereals but unless you had the money to buy the alternative sources of nourishment you literally starved! It took several years for the authorities and the various charities to come to grips with the situation. In the meantime, many of the poor tenant farmers and their stricken families were evicted from their hovels to often die on the side of the road or to be forcibly sent to the notorious Poor Houses which were virtual death sentences for the inmates anyway.

The only alternative was to emigrate and the floodgates opened to the Americas and further afield. The money for their fares came from relatives already living abroad or people clubbing together to provide enough cash for the young generation to find new lives. Indeed, landlords cynically paid the fares to get rid of unwanted peasants when new laws made the former responsible for their tenants. Often the ships carrying these unfortunates to North America were grossly overcrowded thus causing many deaths on the voyages. These ships quickly became known as ‘coffin ships’.

You can visit three places in Dublin, all close to each other, which will bring home the horror of the Famine and then the resilience and unquenchable spirit of the Irish who made good of their initial misfortunes in their new and not always welcoming lands. The first is the impressive

but gruesome Famine Memorial on Custom House Quay (just before the Sean O’Casey Bridge). There is an explanatory plaque nearby. Then visit the replica famine ship, the Jeannie Johnston, and take a tour on board to see what it might have been like to travel for at least six weeks under sail across a seemingly unending ocean with your life hanging on a thread. On its 14 voyages to the New World not one soul was ever lost, an exceptional record – www. jeaniejohnston.ie. Finally, cross the road to

EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum in the wonderful CHQ building, an outstanding example of 1820s warehouse architecture.

This is a fantastic, interactive exhibition displaying the desperate times of famine and how the Irish, against all the odds, have since made such outstanding contributions to society, arts, politics, science, business and sport all over the world (www.epicchq.com).

dodublintours

TED VO

R

O

TR

IP

Whether you want to sit back and soak up the culture at Dublin’s historic sites or get out there and explore the streets, meet the people and sample the Guinness, our guides can help you make the most of your holiday and see the city like a local.

ON

AS

Dublin’s No.1 Bus Tour A D VIS

FREE Kids FREE Hotel Shuttle FREE Walking Tour FREE Little Museum of Dublin

Book a Tour

The Dubliner’s Guide to Dublin

Book online dodublin.ie

Buy in person at Dublin Bus Head Office 59 Upper O’Connell St, Dublin 1 Hop on and pay driver

dodublin.ie FEBRUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

13

FREE CELTIC IMBOLC FESTIVAL ON OFFER AT

Hook Lighthouse

Hook Lighthouse in Co Wexford – the oldest working lighthouse in the world – is set to mark the beginning of Spring with a traditional Imbolc festival on February 1 - 2.

C

elebrated annually by the ancient Celts, Imbolc was one of several important festivals in the Celtic calendar. February 1, meanwhile, is also the feast of Saint Brigid. The Christian saint shares her name and many attributes with a figure in ancient Irish mythology. The latter was believed to be a fire goddess, as well as the patron saint of boatmen, mariners and sailors.

Opening the festival weekend on the morning of Saturday, February 1 is a sunrise tour of the ancient lighthouse at 7am. Guests will be treated to dawn breaking over the spectacular South-East coast of the Hook Peninsula. This is all the while savouring bucks fizz, prosecco, tea and coffee along with a selection of breakfast canapés made from the finest local produce.

14

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

The latter includes Ballyhack Smokehouse smoked salmon served on homemade brown bread.

During the weekend visitors to the lighthouse can also enjoy a tasting table filled with local foods and hosted by an award-winning in-house kitchen team. Along with this there will be art workshops - including a St Brigid Cross making tutorial with Hook Lighthouse’s resident artist - and a talk on the meaning of Imbolc with storyteller Baya SalmonHawk followed by a visualization.

The Hook Lighthouse Eco Sheriff, meanwhile, will host a talk on sustainability and recycling at the landmark’s newly established Eco-Education Station.

Founded in August 2019, the exhibition was set up to promote critical action around climate change,

educating visitors about the water cycle, along with the wider aspects of pollution, human interaction and individual responsibility.

Hook Lighthouse has had an environmental strategy in place since 2012. This strategy focuses on waste and energy reduction. The lighthouse recycles all paper, cardboard, tin cans, aluminium cans, plastic, glass, electrical waste and clothes. Where possible only local suppliers are used at the on-site cafe and the site also has a zero-plastic policy in place.

On Saturday and Sunday afternoon from 12 to 4 pm, fun and games for children will be on offer with Pirate Pat. Cafe specials during this time will include tasty treats like pancakes filled with seasonal berries and sweet sharing plates. On top of this, during the festival weekend visitors can also place wishes on an Imbolc wishing tree.

All Imbolc Festival events at Hook Lighthouse are available to enjoy free of charge apart from the sunrise tour and art workshops. The sunrise tour is adults only and tickets are €45 per person. Meanwhile, to take part in the art workshops costs €5.

The existing Hook Lighthouse dates back as far as the 12th century, though tradition states that Dubhán, a missionary to the Wexford area, established a form of beacon as early as the 5th century. The headland is known in Irish as Rinn Dubháin, St. Dubhán’s Head. However, the similar-sounding Irish word ‘duán’ means a fishhook, thus leading to the English name ‘Hook Lighthouse’.

For further details on the Imbolc festival, as well as ticket booking, visit Hook Lighthouse’s website at www. hookheritage.ie or call via 051 397 055.

FEBRUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

15

Full Steam Ahead on

Malahide’s Casino Model Railway Museum

T

he new Casino Model Railway Museum in Malahide is now open to the public. This is following restoration work on the historic Casino building and the conservation of the Fry Model Railway Collection.

The Casino building is located next to Malahide Dart Station and is also in close proximity to a bus stop. It is the only cottage orné of its type in Fingal and is of significant historical importance to the area’s architectural heritage.

For the past eight years, it has been carefully conserved, restored and extended by Fingal County Council. Now it’s set to become a visitor attraction, being the permanent home of the Fry Model Railway collection. Previously housed in Malahide Castle, the exhibition is of great historical importance not only to Malahide but to model train enthusiasts worldwide – containing models of every single piece of rolling stock that ever ran on a railway in Ireland.

Speaking to Travel Ireland at a special preview of the new museum to press on January 20, Mayor of Fingal Cllr Eoghan O’Brien said: “I grew up in Malahide myself. This house is an iconic landmark locally. The Fry Model Collection - then housed in Malahide Castle – was something I visited myself as a child very regularly. So, it’s great to see those two pieces of Malahide history coming together as one.”

On top of housing the Fry Model collection, the museum also exhibits some other gems for model train enthusiasts.

Speaking about this, County Architect at Fingal County Council

16

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

Fionnuala May said: “We have the collection which was made

by Cyril Fry [a former railway engineer and draughtsman].

Those models are not for running. They’re museum pieces. So, in order to animate the exhibition, we have made a running model which is completely brand new.”

This new addition sees various small-scale replicas of Irish trains chugging through models of recognisable sights including the River Liffey, Malahide, Bray and Mallow. As well as this, the museum includes an education room for attending school groups, a collection of Irish railway memorabilia, an interactive table providing history on train services in the country and an area devoted to models related to the circus in Ireland.

The project, which has cost approximately €4m to deliver, has been funded through Fingal County Council’s capital programme and a generous donation of €1.5m from the late Mr Micheál Gaffney of Malahide. O’Brien told Travel Ireland: “It really has been a labour of love for our architect department as well as a number of the local councillors, myself included, to get this from the inception stage to being open to the public.

It’s absolutely world class and I think it will stretch far beyond model train enthusiasts.”

Speaking on this, Fingal County Council Chief Executive AnnMarie Farrelly told Travel Ireland: “I think the model railway that’s on display here will be popular with both young and old.

Those who have familiarity with the old railway in Ireland will appreciate the unique work that went into developing the

models. In addition, we have some attractions for younger children who will be interested in seeing the railway at work.”

Regarding the new attraction, Director of Economic, Enterprise and Tourism Development Emer O’Gorman said in a statement: “The Casino Model Railway Museum is a wonderful addition to Fingal County Council’s heritage property portfolio, which includes Malahide Castle and Gardens, Newbridge House and Ardgillan Castle. Tourism development is a vital element of our department’s work and this new property will be a great addition to our offerings for residents as well as visitors from both home and abroad.”

Speaking on the impact the museum will have on its community, O’Brien said: “For local small businesses, anything that’s different and attracts people is a positive. It’s right beside the railway station. The bus stop is just up the road.

So, it’s easily accessible and very much something that will bring people from far and wide but that the locals will enjoy immensely.”

Farrelly added: “The Casino Model Railway Museum is going to be a really important asset to Malahide. We already have an established tourism offering at Malahide Castle and Demesne.

That’s one of the most popular attractions in Dublin. So, the fact that this casino is closer to the village I think is going to provide an integrated tourism offering. People will travel to the castle, to the demesne and then walk to the village to see the offering here.”

Fingal County Council has awarded the contract for the operation of the Casino Model Railway Museum to Shannon Heritage who, by worki ng closely with Fingal County Council, are committed to ensuring the museum’s success as an attraction for domestic and international visitors. Six people will be employed at the new museum.

All visitor information can be found on the museum’s official website at www.modelrailwaymuseum.ie.

FEBRUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

17

Explore Leinster

The Chester Beatty Library

EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum You won’t find leprechauns or pots of gold here, but you’ll discover what it means to be Irish expands far beyond the island through the emigrants who became scientists, politicians, poets, artists and even outlaws all over the world. At EPIC, awarded Europe’s Leading Tourist Attraction at the World Travel Awards, discover why saying “I’m Irish” is one of the biggest conversation starters, no matter where. EPIC tells the moving, unforgettable stories of those who left the island and changed the world. A fully digital museum, experience state-of-the-art interactive galleries complete with touch screens, motion sensor quizzes and powerful audio and video. Watch characters from the past tell tales of adventure and perseverance, conflict and discovery, belief and community.

Tel: +353 (0)1 906 0861 Email: info@epicchq.com Book at www.tickets.epicchq.com.

Open year-round. 10.00 – last entry at 17.00.

Entrance fees (standard): Adult €16.50; Senior/ Student €15.00; Child (6-15) €8.00; Child (U5) Free; Family (2A+2C) €40.

Glasnevin Cemetery Museum & Guided Tours Located 2.5km from Dublin city centre, Glasnevin Cemetery is one of Ireland’s most popular attractions - a breathtakingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery where over 1.6 million are buried. Guides are passionate about sharing their love of history and recount the stories of Ireland’s fascinating past through daily walking tours, resulting in history lessons made fun and memorable by professionals who know their stuff. Awarded TripAdvisor’s Travellers’ Choice Award 2018, Glasnevin is a cemetery of historic importance.

Museum, genealogy, gift shop and café on site.

Open daily for guided tours, re-enactments and the O’Connell tower. museum@glasnevintrust.ie (01) 882 6550 www.glasnevinmuseum.ie

Pat Liddy Walking Tours of Dublin

If you really want to get to know the city, then walking around with an entertaining and professional guide is the best way to discover its history and hidden treasures. Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade. The tours are described as entertaining and full of history. Even for someone who lives in Dublin, the tours surprises with loads of hidden facts. You can choose from a wide range of scheduled tours (all year round), including three brand new tours designed to get you off the beaten path. Docklands – The New Old Dublin, Hidden Gems of the Northside and The Tempting Whiskey Trail around the historic Liberties. Private tours can be arranged at any time geared to the topic of your choice. Tours are offered in main European languages.

Find Out More Book at: www.walkingtours.ie Contact: Info@walkingtours.ie or 00353 10832 9406

Kilmainham Gaol (Jail)

The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world.

Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3pm and 4pm.

Opening hours: 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat 11am-5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm.

Tel: 01 407 0750

The National Museum of Ireland

Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show.

Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance.

Tel: 01 453 5984

The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. With three locations in Dublin covering Archaeology, Natural History, Decorative Arts & History, and one location in Mayo covering Country Life, you can lose yourself for hours in the many exhibitions.

Free admission Tel +353 (0) 1 677 7444 www.museum.ie

Baggot Street welcomes a beautiful modern Italian restaurant!

Open for lunch from 12pm to 3pm, Dinner 5pm 'til late, Mon- Sat www.cirillos.ie

Phone | +353 1 676 6848 Location | No. 140, Baggot St., Dublin 2 18

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Camden Kitchen

A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff.

3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 476 0125 www.camdenkitchen.ie

Silken Thomas

Silken Thomas is a family operated business, established for over 40 years. Focussed on giving that warm Irish welcome, Silken Thomas has a proven record in quality and service. Silken Thomas is where you can eat, drink, dance and sleep.

Silken Thomas brings to you the traditional Irish Pub Lils, the more sports-orientated Squires and the contemporary Flanagan’s Lounge. For whatever occasion you are celebrating or a place to simply relax for a drink, Silken Thomas is the choice for you.

The Square Kildare Town Co. Kildare +353 (0) 45 522232 info@silkenthomas.com

PRADO

Zaytoon

Peploe’s

Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park.

16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com

Cliff Townhouse

Fine dining in Dublin city centre with seafood focused menus, including the innovative Afternoon Sea. The Cliff Townhouse restaurant serves brilliantly executed Dublin classics, menus are equally suited to a threecourse celebration or a light bite in the middle of the day. Staples include generous salads, eggs Benedict, Galway oysters, Irish lobsters, dressed Yawl Bay crabs, wild sea trout and 10oz Hereford rib eye steaks.

22 St Stephen's Green, Dublin 2 +35316383939 info@clifftownhouse.ie

Located by the gorgeous coastal area of Clontarf, Prado offers locally sourced food, cooked in a Mediterranean style over an open fire of Irish hardwoods. With its smart yet relaxed dining spaces, the restaurant is perfect for everything from a casual lunch or brunch to a night out with friends. A warm welcome is guaranteed in this beautiful restaurant by the sea.

This restaurant chain gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, Zaytoon offer the very best of Persian cuisine. On top of their famous location on Parliament Street in Temple Bar, they have spots in Camden Street, Dublin 2; Swords Pavilions; and Ranelagh, Dublin 6. www.zaytoon.ie 20

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

Opening Times: Mon: CLOSED Tues - Fri: Lunch12:00 - 15:00 Dinner17:00 - Close Sat: Brunch 10:00 - 15:00 Dinner17:00 - Close Sun: Brunch10:00 - 12:45 All Day Menu Address: 9 Vernon Ave Clontarf Dublin 3 Tel: 01 6932299 Email: bookings@prado.ie Web: www.prado.ie

Mexico to Rome

Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value.

23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Le Bon Crubeen

This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin, with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes.

It has won Best Value Restaurant Dublin in the Dubliner, Best Pre-Theatre listing in Hot Press and Best Casual Dining in the Restaurant Awards Value and Quality.

81-2 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 0126 www.leboncrubeen.ie

ASADOR

Café Topolis

The Left Bank Bistro is 23 years in business, a true testament to its popularity. This modern restaurant is situated in the heart of Old Athlone, a stone's throw from the Athlone Lock on the River Shannon with views of the Norman Castle and its ancient architecture.

The food is exciting and innovative. You can savour fresh fish and dishes such as beef carpaccio, chicken satay and an array of decadent, delicious desserts.

Fry Place, High St, Athlone, Co. Westmeath Call (090) 649 4446 Email: info@leftbankbistro.com Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine.

Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.

ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food.

1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4.

Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie

La Ruelle Wine Bar

37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961

Cirillo’s

‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’.

ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food.

The Left Bank Bistro

Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers.

Perfect for the festive season or any events.

3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie

Salamanca

Cirillo’s have gone to great lengths to ensure that their customers enjoy an authentic Italian meal.

All of their pizzas are made to the traditional Vera Pizza Napoletana standards, using San Marzano tomatoes, 00 flour and fresh mozzarella all finished in a wood fire oven that they imported from Naples. All of their pasta, bread, pizza dough and ice creams are made in-house every day and they offer a wide variety of Italian wines, craft beers and aperitifs that beautifully compliment their seriously tasty meals.

Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City.

140 Baggot Street, Dublin 2 +353 1 6766848 www.cirillos.ie

1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie FEBRUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

21

Recommended Bars in Leinster

The Duke

Sin É

Sin É on Ormond Quay is Dublin’s original late night alternative music venue. Whether it’s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic night’s that you’re looking for, Sin É caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If you’re looking for a great atmosphere and some of the best musicians in Dublin then Sin É is definitely the place to be.

14 -15 Ormond Quay Tel: 01 555 4036 & 01 555 4037 www.sin-e.ie

Grogan’s

Dingle Whiskey Bar

The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. And every Tuesday they host a Whiskey Tasting Class from 7pm with whiskey guru Fionnán O’Connor.

Learn everything you ever wanted to know about the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey.

Tickets available at the bar for €18.

Photo Ros Kavanagh

Ideally situated close to Grafton Street, this old watering hole has been providing liquid refreshment and sustenance to the people of Dublin since 1822. They have a great selection of craft beers, whiskeys and gins for you to try, along with amazing food. The Duke is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of busy Grafton Street.

9 Duke St, Dublin 2 016799553

44 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 677 4810 www.theporterhouse.ie

This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming.

15 S William St., Dublin 2.

Tel: 01 677 9320

J.P. Mooney’s JT Pim’s

Located in the heart of the Dame District, JT Pim’s is styled as a local bar in the city centre.

They offer quality drinks in comfortable surrounds. From local craft beers such as the 5 Lamps and Galway Hooker ranges, to fine wines and signature cocktails such as their twist on the classic Old Fashioned, they have all tastes covered. Their bartenders are happy to take requests and guide you through the list. Relax in their bespoke armchairs or leather couches, or when the sun is shining, soak up the atmosphere in Dame Court.

4 South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2 (01) 672 4645 22

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

On the historical corner of Nassau and Kildare Street, directly opposite Trinity College, you will find J.P. Mooney’s, a traditional Irish pub with a modern twist.

Boasting a vast selection of whiskeys and gins, a wide range of Irish and international craft beer and one of the creamiest pints of Guinness around - you will surely find something to tickle your fancy.

Big screens to watch the sport, live traditional music several nights a week, and a cosy snug in which to relax and enjoy the atmosphere.

Traditional Irish food served all day long.

2 Nassau Street Dublin 2 (01) 551 3725

The Confession Box

One of the smallest bars in Dublin, The Confession Box is situated in the heart of Dublin City near the Spire. During the War of Independence rebel volunteers sought refuge here and received the sacraments from local sympathetic clergy.

Recently, this iconic part of Dublin’s history was renovated. Now run by the capital’s friendliest bar staff, the spot offers great live music from Thursday to Sunday, as well as coverage of major TV sports events. Catering to all tastes, it’s no surprise The Confession Box has picked up much deserved awards.

88 Marlborough St, Dublin 1.

01 828 0028

Opening Hours Monday-Thursday, Sunday 12PM - 4.30AM Friday - Saturday 12PM - 5AM

Established in 2000 Zaytoon now have another two Restaurants in Ranelagh and Swords alongside our Flagship Stores on Parliament St. and Camden St.

Here at Zaytoon we pride ourselves on sourcing and providing the highest quality products. All our meat and poultry are Irish and fully traceable.

Offering even more casual diners the experience of eating what is often referred to as the best Kebabs in Ireland and also offering new additions to our menu.

By day Zaytoon is full of tourists and business people, by night it’s packed to the gills with midnight revellers jostling to get one of our famous kebabs!

TEMPLE BAR 14/15 Parliament Street Temple Bar, Dublin 2

RANELAGH 64 Ranelagh Dublin 6

CAMDEN STREET 44 - 45 Lwr Camden Street, Dublin 2

+353 (0)1 677 3595

+353 (0)1 567 4266

+353 (0)1 400 5006

SWORDS PAVILIONS Malahide Road, Swords Pavilions, Swords, Co. Dublin +353 (0)1 515 5039

Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.

Cork at night

Lismore Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times.

Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture.

From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes.

County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world.

The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles Reginald’s Tower

24

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

you would expect from a truly Irish experience.

The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy.

One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral.

Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and

there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore.

Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’ and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production.

County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.

Theatre Cork Opera House

Gift Grub 2020 Featuring Mario Rosenstock

Ireland’s most successful impressionist and satirist, Mario Rosenstock is celebrating 20 years of Gift Grub by taking a brand spanking new stage show on the road. Featuring the best sketches from the comedy series plus bang up-to-date topical material, Rosenstock’s latest promises to be unmissable. Touring from February until April, for the full list of dates and venues see www.mcd.ie/artists/the-very-best-ofgift-grub-live.

Dates: Feb 25 - 29 Tel: 353 21 427 0022 or visit www.corkoperahouse.ie Also at Cork Opera House this month: Under the Hawthorn Tree Feb 19

The MAC, Belfast A Holy Show

Mermaid Arts Centre, Wicklow

Sandra is looking for love. Gordon is seeking acceptance. Simon just needs these parents to be quiet for two minutes so he can get on with teaching their kids. And Casper? Casper is not here. What I (Don’t) Know About Autism is a sometimes comic, sometimes heartbreaking look at the world of autism. It uses narrative, song and dance in an exploration of this often misunderstood subject matter.

Dates: Feb 15 Tel: 01 272 4030 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie

The Everyman, Cork Keith Barry - Insanity

Dates: Feb 27 - 29 Tel: 028 9023 5053 or visit www.themaclive.com Also at The MAC this month: Under the Hawthorn Tree Jan 30 – Feb 9, Poet in da Corner Feb 26 – Mar 1

Lime Tree Theatre, Limerick Trad

Written by the award-winning Mark Doherty, Trad is a hilarious, absurd and poignant tale of a 100-year-old Irishman … and his father.

Together they set out to discover the son they never knew he had.

Dates: Feb 8 Tel: 061 953 400 or visit www.limetreetheatre.ie Also at Lime Tree this month: Grounds for Concern Feb 12, Heather Feb 15, Queen of Technicolor Feb 21, Maura Laverty – This Was Your Life Feb 29 26

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

I Hear You and Rejoice

What I (Don’t) Know About Autism

Also at the Mermaid Arts Centre this month: A Holy Show Feb 5

A Holy Show is a nostalgic comedy based on the 1981 hijacking of an Aer Lingus plane. This was by an ex-Trappist monk with a bottle of water as his weapon, the Pope as his nemesis, and a burning desire to know The Third Secret of Fatima. Touring across Ireland in February and March, for the full list of A Holy Show’s dates and venues visit verdant.ie/portfolio/a-holyshow-by-janet-moran.

Town Hall Theatre, Galway

Acclaimed playwright and stage actor Mikel Murfi returns with a one-man show. Late in his life, Pat Farnon, a cobbler and all-round contented man, embarks on a journey he had not quite planned. In doing so, he finds that every twist in the road can bring its own surprises. The play has garnered rave reviews with the New York Times calling it ‘a manytongued wonder of Irish storytelling.’

Dates: Feb 6 Tel: 091 569 777 or visit www.tht.ie Also at the Town Hall this month: Bosco’s Once Upon a Time Tour Feb 2, My Father, My Son Feb 3 – 6, The Man in the Woman’s Shoes Feb 5, Do Fish Sleep? Feb 12 – 15, Dirty Dusting Feb 15, The 10 Dark Secrets of 1798 Feb 18, The Cherry Orchard Feb 22 – Mar 7, Tintown Feb 24, Theatre Room Galway Feb 24

Watergate Theatre, Kilkenny The Legend of Luke Kelly

Keith Barry, the world’s leading TV hypnotist, mentalist and brain hacker, is currently touring across Ireland with his brand new show Insanity.

Billed as his most daring and audacious work to date, it features crazy and insane mind-reading, escapology and magic experiments designed to shock, amuse and amaze. Speaking about Insanity to Travel Ireland, Barry said about nonbelievers attending his show: “I quite like seeing the transition of them being sceptics at the start to not necessarily believers at the end but knowing what they’ve seen is as genuine as it can get. There’s no stooges, actors, plants or camera tricks.” Touring across Ireland until March, for the full list of dates and venues see keithbarry. com/insanity-tour-2020/.

Dates: Feb 15 – 16, Mar 13 Tel: 021 450 1673 or visit www.everymancork.com Also at the Everyman this month: Crowman Feb 4 – 6, Tintown Feb 9, What I (Don’t) Know About Autism Feb 11 – 13, A Holy Show Feb 17 – 20, Hansel and Gretel Feb 25, Revolting Rhymes Feb 27 - 29

Celebrating the memory and music of one of the greatest folk artists of the 20th century and Ireland’s cultural treasures, The Legend of Luke Kelly sees singer and multi-instrumentalist Chris Kavanagh and his band perform renditions of The Dubliners band member’s songs.

Dates: Feb 28 Tel: 056 7761674 or visit www.watergatetheatre.ie Also at the Watergate this month: Take Off Your Cornflakes Feb 15, Hansel and Gretel Feb 20, Dirty Dusting Feb 22, The Gingerbread Man Feb 23

Cobh Heritage Centre

The Queenstown Story

Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events.

T

he exhibition at Cobh Heritage Centre, known as The Queenstown Story, is inventively situated within Cobh’s restored Victorian railway station, a building with its own historic story.

The Queenstown Story will engage the visitor in a journey through time, recalling Irish emigration with real stories about real people. From the indentured servants of Virginia and the West Indies plantations in the 17th century, the early settlers in upper Canada, the famine victims of the 1840s to the large-scale emigration of the 19th and 20th centuries. The visitor will also discover the hardships endured by the convicts who were transported to Australia.

The present town of Cobh has its origins as a small village nestled in the hillside on the southern shores. The village was known as Cove, being situated in the cove, or harbour, of Cork.

The town did not begin to grow until the early nineteenth century, but its strategic importance was realised in the late eighteenth century during the American War of Independence. Vital shiploads of troops and supplies were needed by the British forces fighting in America between 1775 and

1781. The entry of France into the war in 1778 heightened the danger of these ships being attacked at sea. This large and safe harbour provided ideal conditions in which the ships could assemble and be protected.

The wars against France from the 1790s to 1815 were to prove the catalyst which led to the future prosperity of the town as Cove and its harbour played an important role in this war at sea.

Cove went on to become a major port with both naval and merchant shipping and was one of the major ports of emigration.

Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events.

The exhibition is a self-guided tour with audio tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Dutch, Polish and Chinese.

It is not just interesting and educational, but very emotive and thought-provoking.

“Take a glimpse into our storied past and walk in the footsteps of our emigrant ancestors”.

FEBRUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

27

Cork’s Quality Quarter Block Party The sixth edition of the Quarter Block Party festival, in association with Jameson Irish Whiskey, is gearing up to inject life and colour into Cork City from Thursday, February 6 to Sunday, February 9.

The event will sprawl through the city’s streets and venues with over 50 music, art and theatre performances. Amble through a weekend wonderland of pop-up shows, public events, and creative discussion to discover some of the freshest high-calibre Irish and International artists.

As ever, the festival programme features a superbly eclectic Live Art Programme, curated by Ruairí Ó’Donnabháin. Commenting on this year’s edition, Ó’Donnabháin says, “This year’s festival will bring the voices of some incredible artists to Cork, these performances and installations all about finding the light in these dark times.”

“We have gathered together our neighbours from Newfoundland, Iceland, Norway and Portugal and even a few Dubs. Radically political and poetic, I think it will be the right tonic for us and as always the people we bring really know how to throw a party.”

Opening the Live Art Programme on Thursday, Andre Uerba visits the Triskel from Portugal bringing the performance-installation Burn Time. In Uerba’s choreography, delicate threads are gradually set on fire one after the other and sometimes simultaneously, creating a space in slow motion constantly changing and fading. The strength of the burning threads unfolds in the darkness. In a time of perpetual wars between the present and

28

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

future, the tempo decelerates, becoming quiet and calm.

Later that night in Kino, there is Dead by Beauty and the Beast. For more than two decades the duo, Amanda Apetrea from Sweden and Halla Ólafsdóttir from Iceland, have remained a mythical force, creating new lyrical expressions with their gravelly voices and poetic dances.

Their new show is a dystopian performance that merges dance, poetry, music and the beauty of darkness.

Friday night welcomes the bright and brilliant drag show Queent all the way San Francisco. It features Monique Jenkinson (and her drag queen alter-ego Fauxnique) and Mica Sigourney (also known as VivvyAnne ForeverMORE) serving killer moves at Firkin Crane.

On the Saturday of the festival, Quarter Block Party will partner with Crawford Art Gallery and Tonnta to present a free lunchtime performance titled Their Chorus.

Simultaneously playful, bleak and revealing, the piece is a blend of performance art and music using quotes and reactions to Facebook feeds that unfold over two hours.

Later on that day more performers from over the pond join the party. Flying in from St. John’s Newfoundland, Lois Brown and James O’Callaghan invite the audience into a playful investigation of memory, patience, boredom, democratization and relationality in I am A Genius Does Anybody Know Me? The show is part of a double bill in the Triskel also featuring Sarah Stoker’s Fort/ress. The latter is about women - strong and not so strong women; forceful powerful women; injured dismantled women; manipulated oppressed women; women and sex. Fort/ress treads

a thin and tenuous line between submission, repression, misogyny, aggression, power, pain, control and pleasure.

International talents will continue to wow as Norwegian trio Ingeleiv Berstad, Ida Wigdel and Kristin Helgebostad bring Spoiler to Firkin Crane. The three have developed an intuitive way of working where no idea is too hysterical, vulgar, provocative, or childish to probe. In Spoiler, they explore outer and inner noise and enter into an unknown universe

that seeks the distorted, dark and playful.

Sunday is all about getting wet and wild with Fluids by Wauhaus. The show creates an impossibly slippery stage for the Finnish and Estonian performers to the extent that they cannot fully control their own bodies. Fluids then invites the audience to encounter empathy, intimacy, and failure in these times when individualism, perfectionism, and mistrust prevail in society.

Topping off the weekend is Irish

comedy duo Lords of Strut with Ping Pong at Kino. The show is part-club, part-art space - all dance floor. The whole party is a performance so get involved in this all-day event running from 2.30pm - 11pm.

Gain access to events through single event tickets, or with Live Art Bundle Passes (â‚Ź60 + booking fee for all dance/theatre shows). There is also a limited amount of Full Festival Passes (â‚Ź100 for entry to every show at Quarter Block Party). Tickets on sale now from quarterblockparty.com.

FEBRUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

29

Cork’s

Crawford Art Gallery

C

ork’s Crawford Art Gallery is hosting the Zurich Portrait Prize 2019 exhibition, in partnership with the National Gallery of Ireland.

Sponsored by Zurich Insurance, this is the first time the exhibition will travel outside of Dublin, with the goal of creating a greater awareness of the national talent on display. The showing will feature the competition shortlist as chosen by an esteemed judging panel.

Enda Bowe’s photo ‘Cybil McCaddy with Daughter Lulu’ was 2019’s overall winner of the prize. He is an Irish artist who lives and works in London. His work is concerned with storytelling and the search for light and beauty in the ordinary.

For the first time ever in 2019, meanwhile, a special competition for younger artists – the Zurich Young Portrait Prize – was introduced. The shortlisted works from creatives

30

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

between the ages of 3 and 18, will be on display with the main prize exhibition in Crawford Art Gallery’s historic Gibson Galleries from February 1 until April 13.

This is after a public preview on January 31 at 5pm.

The first winner of the Zurich Young Portrait Prize is the photograph “The new age” by Mabel Forsyth and Mary O’Carroll. The 12-year-old cousins from Dublin said in a statement, “This photo, which was a joint effort, is meant to show that most people have both good qualities and bad qualities.”

“Crawford Art Gallery is delighted to partner for the first time with the National Gallery of Ireland on the hugely anticipated Zurich Portrait Prize exhibition,” said Mary McCarthy, Director of Crawford Art Gallery, in a statement.

“Annually the exhibition and prize-giving generates excitement and presents audiences with fresh perspectives on portraiture. We believe it will enable our

© Mabel Forsyth & Mary O’Carroll, The New Age Winner of the Zurich Young Portrait Prize 2019

© Enda Bowe, Cybil McCaddy with Daughter Lulu (2018) Overall winner of the Zurich Portrait Prize 2019

to Host Some Perfect Portraits

audiences to make connections with our wider collection and supports our deeper ongoing collaboration with the National Gallery of Ireland.”

Sean Rainbird, Director of the National Gallery of Ireland, added: “As the National Gallery of Ireland continues to grow its national footprint, we’re thrilled to bring the Zurich Portrait Prize to Cork.

Showcasing portraiture to new audiences at Crawford Art Gallery is a wonderful development for the competition.”

The 26 works shortlisted for the Zurich Portrait Prize are said to demonstrate the exceptional breadth of contemporary portraiture in Ireland and reflect the huge interest in image and identity. According to the galleries, the artists have embraced a wide variety of media, from painting and photography to video and mixed media, making for an exciting, sometimes unexpected experience for visitors.

Their second year sponsoring the prize, Neil Freshwater, CEO of Zurich

Insurance plc, said in a statement: “Zurich is proud to celebrate portraiture with the National Gallery of Ireland and Crawford Art Gallery. It’s been wonderful to introduce a second prize this year and showcase work by artists of all ages.”

The National Gallery of Ireland’s Zurich Portrait Prize, now in its sixth year, is open to Irish artists aged 19 and over and aims to create newfound intrigue and exploration of contemporary portraiture and the possibilities of the medium. The winning artist received a cash prize of €15,000, and a commission worth €5,000 to create a work for inclusion in the National Portrait Collection at the National Gallery of Ireland.

Meanwhile, the artists behind two other highly commended works – Joe Dunne with ‘And Their World of Far and Near Things’ and Salvatore of Lucan with ‘Lucy with 3 hands and me holding onto her leg’ - each collected €1,500.

The Zurich Young Portrait Prize winners also received a cash prize of €500.

For more information about Crawford Art Gallery’s latest exhibitions, visit the gallery’s website at www.crawfordartgallery.ie.

FEBRUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

31

Recommended Bars in Munster

Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder, Irish Whiskey Experience

Ryans Bar

Developed by whiskey lovers as a first class destination for whiskey enthusiasts and novices alike. Guests will be amazed by shelf upon shelf of Irish, Scottish & international whiskies and a wide variety of Irish craft gin & vodka, craft beer and cider, eclectic wine list, and creative cocktail menu. Fresh, locally sourced food served daily. Irish Whiskey Experience offers the chance to discover more about the history, production & renaissance of Irish whiskey, with 10 masterclasses to choose from, running every day.

93 New Street Killarney, Co. Kerry Tel: +353646635700 www.celticwhiskeybar.com www.irishwhiskeyexperience.net

The Roaring Donkey

Perched up on “Top of The Hill” the Roaring Donkey is Cobh’s oldest traditional pub. Still original and oozing charm and authenticity the pub has been operating since 1880. It is known locally as the rugby pub but they do their best to accommodate most sports. A traditional music session has been running for nearly 40 years and is on every Wednesday night. Great craic guaranteed or enjoy a quiet pint in one of the finest beer gardens in town.

The Roaring Donkey Tiknock, Cobh, Co. Cork Phone: (021) 481 1739

The Friary

Located by the river on the corner of Cork’s historic Shandon Street and North Mall, The Friary is a unique combination of old, new and eccentric. It's a homely craft beer bar with delicious gins and tonics.

Look out for its astonishing range of special events; music, art, quizzes, the famous Drunk Spelling Bee, weird films, Penguin parties (really) and more!

62 Shandon St, Cork Tel: 087 668 0941

The Bierhaus

There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers.

Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648 A friendly, family-run traditional Irish spot, Ryans Bar is one of Cobh’s most popular pubs, located right in the heart of town. Owned

by Paul and Gemma O’Halloran for the last 21 years, the venue shows all live sports and features live music on the weekends, as well as occasional sessions midweek. On top of this, it boasts a real cozy feel in the Winter. This is thanks to its gorgeous, rustic open fire.

12 Casement Square, Cobh, Co. Cork (021) 481 1539

Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant

Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May. 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1)

The Original Durty Nelly’s

Durty Nelly’s can truly be described as one of Ireland’s landmark pubs. Nestling in the shadow of the magnificent Bunratty Castle, it is the first stopping off point for generations of visitors to Ireland arriving at nearby Shannon Airport. Apart from the warm Irish welcome that you’ll find at Nelly’s, you’ll also enjoy the finest, freshest local produce – whether you’re just dropping in for a snack or staying for a fine dining experience.

The Original Durty Nelly's Bunratty West, Bunratty, Co. Clare +353 61 364 861 info@durtynellys.ie

32

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Munster Room Restaurant

The Lobster Bar and Restaurant

options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City.

Open Monday - Saturday 5.30pm until late (Open Bank Holiday Sundays) 2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie

The Smuggler’s Inn The 2-AA Rosette Munster Room Restaurant is located on the idyllic private island of Waterford Castle Hotel and Golf Resort. The Island is just minutes by car from Waterford city centre and accessible by complimentary Resort ferry.

The Castle culinary team work passionately to create dishes with sublime flavour using high quality produce sourced from local suppliers, the kitchen’s vegetable patch and by foraging for what grows naturally on the 310-acre Island. The menu changes seasonally so guests can always savour the freshest ingredients.

The Munster Room Restaurant’s oak-panelled walls, Waterford Crystal chandeliers and ornate ceilings match the luxurious surroundings of the 16th Century Castle hotel. Home to a fine Irish whiskey collection, an impressive wine cellar and signature cocktails, the elegant Fitzgerald Room bar is perfect for an aperitif or post-dinner drink.

During the day, the Castle serves Afternoon Tea in the bright conservatory overlooking the lawns, with homemade pastries and desserts prepared by dedicated pastry chefs.

The restaurant and hotel have made the lists for both McKennas’ Guides 100 Best Places to Stay 2019 and 101 Great Irish Restaurants 2019.

They have also won Luxury Hotel of the Year 2019 and Munster Fine Dining Hotel of the Year 2019.

Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort The Island, Ballinakill, Co Waterford X91 Y722 info@waterfordcastleresort.com 00353 (0)51 878 203 www.waterfordcastleresort.com

The Strand Inn

Delicious food and friendly service are what makes The Lobster a must visit on the Ring of Kerry. Established over 60 years ago, it’s a family run business steeped in history. On the front of the restaurant is a giant lobster holding a pint of Guinness which can’t be missed.

Inside a warm welcome, a relaxing atmosphere and award-winning food awaits. The restaurant prides itself on its seafood, with whole poached lobster, beetroot cured salmon, local mussels and seafood chowder some of their signature dishes.

Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 947 4629 www.thelobsterwaterville.com

Out of the Blue

Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330, www.thesmugglersinn.ie

Momo They serve only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment.

Dingle Harbour. Tel: 066 915 0811

La Boheme

Overlooking Hook Head, The Strand Inn is the perfect place to enjoy lingering breakfasts, relax over a long lunch or enjoy intimate, romantic suppers. Diners can look forward to the finest Irish beef, lobster and line caught seafood in a luxurious setting, characterised by beamed ceilings, original stone walls and planked floors.

Dunmore East, Co.Waterford.

Tel: 051 383 174 www.thestrandinn.com

This ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. It’s not hard to see why as the Chef/Proprietor, Henry Hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. Panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience.

For total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms.

La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu

Momo is a multi-award-winning restaurant in Waterford City, Ireland. They pride themselves on their fresh and healthy menu featuring ingredients from the local food producers of Waterford County. You will enjoy a wide range of international dishes including lots of vegetarian/vegan options as well as delicious meat and fish dishes. Momo featured in the McKennas’ Guides Top 100 Restaurants in Ireland 2018, 2017 and 2016, and won ‘Best Casual Dining’ in Munster at the Irish Restaurant Awards 2017.

47 Patrick Street, Waterford, Ireland.

Call (051) 581 509 kamila@momorestaurant.ie

FEBRUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

33

Explore Explore Munster Munster

The Hunt Museum Cliffs of Moher Loop Head Lighthouse This popular tourist attraction is located at the mouth of the Shannon Estuary on the Loop Head Peninsula, which is one of two “Signature Discovery Points” in County Clare along the route of the Wild Atlantic Way. It also is a landmark location on the Loop Head Heritage Trail and is one of 12 Great Lighthouses of Ireland. The lighthouse is steeped in history and rich in maritime heritage with its origins dating back to the 1670s. The existing tower style lighthouse was constructed in 1854 and was operated and maintained by a keeper who lived within the lighthouse compound. In January 1991, the lighthouse was converted to automatic operation, and today is monitored by the CIL.Open daily (10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.) until 5 November.

The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art.

One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry.

When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Bunratty Castle

Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com

Titanic Experience Cobh

The Burren

Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.

Blarney Castle

The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again.

34

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912. The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.

Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.

www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie

Tel: 021 438 5252

An Unmissable Experience!

Cobh, The Queenstown Story An informative and emotive story of Irish emigration.

Learn about Cobh’s connection with Titanic and the Lusitania.

Cobh Heritage Centre, Cobh, Co. Cork, Ireland.

Open 7 days 9.30 – 5.30 (Sundays 11am) Tel 353 (21) 4 813591 Find Cobh the Queenstown Story on Facebook

Email: info@cobhheritage.com Web: www.cobhheritage.com

Welcome to Connaught

Macnas Festival Parade This Fierce Beauty

The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000.

Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht.

The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right.

Galway city

36

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

Connaught has some Carrick on Shannon of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim.

Couple these with the beautiful Ashford the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park the present day without interruption. Croagh in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician must for all.

Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, For those interested in a religious experience Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist custom of trekking up the mountain has been are reputed to have appeared. The apparition faithfully handed down from generation to was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the from six years to seventy-five and included picturesque town of Westport, and its conical men, women and children. The shrine has shape soars majestically above the surrounding become so popular in modern times that the countryside with magnificent views of Clew Ireland West International Airport was built Bay beneath. especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, Connaught. religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst The county also features the pilgrimage site an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered has it all.

Recommended Bars in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)

Monroe's

Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.

This famous venue in the heart of Galway city is renowned as one of the best live music venues in the city. Across two stages, they host regular National & International acts. The friendly staff will assure you of a warm welcome and they serve great food in the Tavern along with free live music seven days a week.

17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820

The Front Door

Dominick Street, Galway 091 583397 www.monroes.ie

Bosh Bar and Restaurant

Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar.

Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534

Matt Malloy’s One of Galway city’s most popular watering holes, The Front Door is a contemporary Irish bar with a late bar, live music and an extensive drinks menu. Located in Galway’s bustling Latin Quarter and spread across two floors The Front Door features five bars, including a stylish cocktail lounge and Sonny Molloy’s Whiskey Bar. The Front Door is the perfect spot to sample Galway’s nightlife.

8 Cross Street Upper, Galway, H91 YY06 Tel: (091) 563 757

This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within.

Bridge St., Westport Tel: 098 26655

The Quays Bar Galway

Roísín Dubh

It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now!

Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540

Located in the city centre in Galway’s vibrant ‘Latin Quarter’ The Quays Bar Galway is one of Galway’s most famous and historic drinking establishments. For close on 400 years The Quays has catered to both Galwegians and visitors to the city of Galway. The restaurant offers a carvery lunch and evening a la carte dinner. The Quays was awarded IMRO Connacht Live Music Venue of the year 2017.

11 Quay St, Galway Tel: (091) 568 347 FEBRUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

37

Recommended Shopping Powerscourt Centre

Located in Dublin’s Creative Quarter on the bustling South William Street is the Powerscourt Centre. Housed in a stunning Georgian townhouse, the Powerscourt Centre has over 40 shops and restaurants and offers shoppers a wonderful city centre shopping experience.

The centre offers a range of fashion stores, such as All Saints, French Connection and Mary Grant and if antiques are your thing then the Powerscourt Centre is the place to go. There are a number of antique stores in the centre, including Courtville Antiques, Delphi Antiques, Lilly Fine Art, The Silver Shop and Monte Cristo. If you’re planning a wedding in the near future, the Centre also offers a number of superb wedding outlets www.powerscourtcentre.ie

Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre Located at the top of Grafton Street, in the heart of Dublin city centre, Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre hosts a wide variety of top retailers. Household names such as Dunnes Stores, Argos, Boots, Eason, United Colors of Benetton, Mothercare, Elverys, Golden Discs and TK Maxx can be found here. When you’re finished shopping, you can relax in one of the many lovely cafes, head for a pint in one of the many nearby pubs, or take a stroll across the road in St Stephen’s Green. www.stephensgreen.com

Jam Art Factory

Courtville: Antique & Vintage Jewellers

Courtville is a traditional Dublin shop with a friendly atmosphere, in business over 50 years and based in the Antique Gallery within the Historic Powerscourt Townhouse. Their collection of vintage, antique and estate jewellery are sure to capture your imagination.

They are envisioning a more personal, accessible and enjoyable world to trade fine jewellery and engagement rings. Authenticity is guaranteed on every piece.

Instagram: @matthew.weldons Antique Gallery - Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, 59 South William Street, Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (1) 6794042

Tights Department Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear.

They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks.

Celtic Whiskey Shop

Ireland’s premier Irish whiskey specialists with a remarkable selection of beloved, rare and hard to find bottlings and shop exclusives. It boasts a knowledgeable and friendly staff who are proud and passionate about products, and are always on hand to offer advice. Feel free to pop in where we serve up in-store whiskey tastings all day everyday! If you're travelling, our staff can either wrap your purchases in protective wrapping or arrange shipping to national and international destinations.

27 – 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6759744 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com

Mourne Antiques

Unit 108, 1st Floor, Stephen's Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2, Ireland D02 VF67 Shop online: www.tightsdepartment.ie (deliver worldwide)

Designer Exchange

Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row.

64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 www.JamArtFactory.com and www.JamArtPrints.com 38

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vuitton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands.

53 Dawnson Street, Dublin 2.

35 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2.

Tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd

Mourne Antiques have been operating in the thriving town of Letterkenny for 25 years.

They offer a range of beautiful antiques, such as ceramics, silver, furniture and collectables, all with their own particular history and charm. You could find anything from a rare book to a mink coat!

They specialise in a wide range of jewellery.

From Victorian gold and precious stone pieces to Contemporary diamond and Engagement rings to 1940’s costume jewellery, their stock is sure to please.

38 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny, Co. Donegal 074 9126457 www.mourneantiques.com

Recommended Shopping The Donegal Shop

The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products. The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists.

Mention Travel Ireland to get a 10% discount 2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com

James Fox

Puro

Puro offers innovative collections of contemporary urban-wear and luxury sneakers from emerging talents as well as world renowned designers. Brands include Pal Zileri, Joop!, Baldessarini, Guess, Philippe Model, Gold Brothers, Android Homme, Mallet and many more.

Puro is the only Irish stockist of many of these brands and while we feel a visit to this beautiful store is a must to truly appreciate the collections, you can also shop or browse first online at puromenswear.com 34 Wicklow Street, Dublin, Ireland info@puro.ie Call (01) 558 1406

The Kilkenny Shop

Amelia’s Irish Design

Amelia’s is home to a selection of beautiful gallery pieces that are perfect for the home or a present for someone special. They stock a range of art and studio ceramics lovingly handcrafted by makers from all over the country, specialising in local makers from the North-West of Ireland.

There are little gifts and keepsakes for the everyday too! All pieces are handpicked by owner Frances Spears. She has over 20 years experience in the design and antiques business so you know you’re in good hands when you pay a visit to Amelia’s Irish Design.

29 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny Co. Donegal 087 2434060 www.amelias.ie

Mackintosh by Francis Campelli

Mackintoshes were first produced in Ireland in 1889 and Francis Campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium most experienced hands for Irish designed products; from fashion and when you visit this store. jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and They offer the finest crystal. For over five decades, the Kilkenny Shop has quality, waterproof been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top Mackintoshes for men designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen and women from stock or made to measure Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce. from €485, as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories.

6 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 6777066 www.kilkennyshop.com 46 South William Street, Dublin 2 01 6088608 Irish Linen House www.franciscampelli.com

Article

For over 135 years, James Fox Cigar and Whiskey Store has been Dublin’s focal point for lovers of Irish whiskey and premium Cuban cigars. Here you will find Ireland’s largest selection of handmade Cuban cigars, including rare and vintage stock.

James Fox also stock a large range of premium Irish whiskeys and spirits to satisfy the most discerning palates. Tax-Free shopping available in-store and online.

119 Grafton Street, Dublin 2, Ireland.

Tel: (01) 677 0533 Email: info@jamesfox.ie Website: www.jamesfox.ie

Irish Linen House is a family-run brand creating tableware from the finest sustainable Irish linen and telling stories through intricately embroidered designs. Handcrafted in Dublin, the collection celebrates Irish roots with hand-drawn artwork inspired by Ireland’s natural beauty and heritage.

Shop the collection on www.irishlinenhouse. com or visit the Irish Linen House studio and gift shop located beside the Jameson Distillery in Smithfield.

This charming store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland.

They stock homeware from around the world, including Irish designers - with everything from Irish woollen throws, glass vases and stationery on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice.

Irish Linen House, Bow St, Smithfield, Dublin D07 AY86 +353 86 033 9979

Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2 01 679 9268 www.articledublin.com FEBRUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

39

Explore Connaught

Westport House

Kylemore Abbey Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic Victorian walled garden, which won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food.

Glencar Waterfall Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. The most dramatic waterfall descends from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.

Arigna Mining Experience Discover what coal mining life was like for coal miners in the Arigna Valley in Roscommon from the 1700’s until its closure in 1990. Visit the exhibition area to discover the history of the mine and then take an underground tour of the mine, where the methods used to extract coal are demonstrated, with lighting and sound effects added for authenticity.

Mullaghmore

40

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

www.WestportHouse.ie

Dún Aonghasa National Museum of Ireland - Country Life The National Museum of Ireland - Country Life in Turlough Park, Castlebar houses exhibits showing how rural people in Ireland lived from the time of the Great Famine right up until the 1950s. The museum features four levels of interactive displays and exhibitions that offer a fascinating insight into the lives of the rural Irish people in years gone by.

Connemara Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Surfers and windsurfers from all over the world have ridden waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable.

Westport House is one of the finest country houses in Ireland and since it opened to the public in the 1960s, over four million visitors have passed through its doors.

There are over 30 rooms on show, where visitors can immerse themselves in over 500 years of history, going back to the time when the Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley ruled the estate. There is loads for the whole family to enjoy on the estate, including the Pirate Adventure Park, the Birds of Prey Centre and the Westport Train Tour.

Connemara is a world of unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the north through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean.

Located on Inismór in the Aran Islands, Dún Aonghasa is one of the best examples of a semi-circular stone fort in Europe.

Located on the 300ft cliffside on the south of the island, it is one of Ireland’s most visited attractions and offers stunning views that stretch the length of the island.

Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside, offering spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding countryside. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year.

Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Venice Italian Restaurant

This is somewhere special to spend the evening, with a relaxing atmosphere and fine dining at its best. Experience Venice’s fine Italian cuisine, with their distinctive taste and beautiful aromas you’ll be sure to have those tastebuds tickled. With stylish facilities, they offer an elegant dining experience that their attention to detail and exceptional service will ensure. Venice is the best Italian restaurant in Galway City Centre and boasts a wide range of tasty Italian dishes.

11 Lower Abbeygate St, Galway City Phone: 091 530-751. Email: restaurantvenice@yahoo.ie

Eala Bhán

Péarla na Mara

Péarla na Mara offer Irish-inspired cuisine with a Mediterranean touch in their restaurant in Oranmore. Using only the finest ingredients, locally sourced in the West and delivered daily specialising in fish, seafood, meat and poultry dishes, along with mouth-watering vegetarian dishes. Pair your meal with wines chosen from the carefully selected wine list. You are welcome to bring your own bottle of wine for a nominal corkage fee of €5 for any amount of wine bottles.

Unit 10, Howley Square, Dublin Road, Oranmore Tel: 091 483900 Email: info@pearlanamara.ie

Brasserie on the Corner

Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823

Brasserie on the Corner on Galway’s Eglinton Street specialises in delectable seafood and steak dishes. They serve lunch and dinner and both menus are created with local, seasonal produce at their heart. These delicious offerings are created using produce from local suppliers. You will also be treated to an extensive and delicious wine and cocktail menu.

You will truly find pride and passion on the plate!

The Yew Tree Restaurant

Brasserie On The Corner, Eglinton Street, Galway, Ireland Tel: +353 91 530333

If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell.

Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food.

Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255

An Port Mór Restaurant

Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West.

1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730

Ashford Castle

Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906.

Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003

Upstairs @ West Restaurant

Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit.

The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000 FEBRUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

41

Ireland’s Pilgrim Paths

A Unique Look into Ireland’s History In response to the recent revival of interest in walking Ireland’s pilgrim paths, Pilgrim Paths Ireland are planning a host of big events for 2020.

The first is Pilgrim Paths Week, an Eastertime festival celebrating Ireland’s pilgrim inheritance. Taking place from April 10 – 19, over the coming Easter period thousands will retrace their ancestral heritage as they take to Ireland’s ancient paths.

These walking trails include Tochar Phadraig in Co Mayo, St Kevin’s Way in Co Wicklow, Scattery Island Pilgrim Path in Co Clare, Cosán na Naomh and Cnoc na dTobar in Co Kerry, St Finbarr’s Pilgrim Path in Co. Cork and Kilcommon Pilgrim Loop and St Declan’s Way in Co Tipperary.

As well as a nationwide series of walks, Pilgrim Paths Ireland’s Eastertime festival will see guides from local communities lead these pilgrimages where return transport will be organised from the endpoint of the path.

According to organisers, Pilgrim

42

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

Paths Week provides a warm welcome for participants of all religious backgrounds and those without religious affiliations. It is planned as a unifying time emphasising Ireland’s common Christian heritage and is designed

to facilitate a deeper understanding of the country’s history.

Organisers say every effort will be made to facilitate the participation of families, the less fit, and in so far as possible, those with special needs. Most of the walks will be single day events while a few will be multi-day outings. To find out more about National Pilgrim Paths Week and to see the full

week-long programme of events go to www.pilgrimpath.ie or email info@pilgrimpath.ie.

Meanwhile, from August 22 – 29, the fourth annual Irish Pilgrim Journey 2020 will be taking place.

Proving increasingly popular with both Irish people and overseas visitors, the event sees pilgrims embark on five ancient penitential trails - St Finbarr’s Pilgrim Path in Co. Cork; Cnoc na dTobar in Co Kerry; Cosán na Naomh in Co Kerry; St Kevin’s Way in Co Wicklow and Tóchar Phádraig in Co Mayo. This is in order to complete the Irish Pilgrim Passport.

Prior to the walks, pilgrims can purchase the passport for the cost of €5 from various locations including the Camino Information Centre at St. James’s Church on James Street in Dublin (for the full list of places, see www.pilgrimpath.ie/pilgrimpassport/). Then participants will collect a stamp after completing each of the walks listed above. This is before being awarded a Teastas (a completion certificate) when they

arrive at Ballintubber Abbey in Co Mayo after finishing all five paths.

Speaking about Ireland’s fourth annual pilgrim journey, Chairman of Pilgrim Paths Ireland, John G, O’Dwyer said in a statement: “The medieval pilgrimage was originally a journey combining prayer and sacrifice - with an element of physical discomfort.

Recently, there has been a renewed interest in following the footsteps of these pilgrims past and over the last number of years Ireland’s penitential trails have echoed to ever-increasing footfall.”

Knowledgeable local guides will lead each walk of the Irish Pilgrim Journey. They will also allow time for personal contemplation, outline the story of the route and explain how medieval penitents coped with their arduous journeys.

Many of the paths are of historical significance to Ireland. For example, St Kevin’s Way reputedly follows the journey of St Kevin to found a monastic settlement in the heart of the Wicklow Mountains. Meanwhile,

Tóchar Phádraig follows the route of the ancient royal road from Cruachán, the seat of the Kings of Connaught, to Croagh Patrick – one later Christianised as a penitential route by St Patrick himself.

Speaking about why people embark on these pilgrimages, O’Dwyer added: “The Irish Pilgrim Journey is not just for those who enjoy exploring Ireland’s ancient tracks, but also the growing numbers seeking to escape the daily grind of life and take time out to reflect and meditate a little while enjoying the outdoors. But for those who cannot make it for the organised pilgrim walks in 2020, it is important to remember that the pilgrim paths of Ireland are open for walkers all year round and are fully waymarked. They can, therefore, be completed alone or as part of a private group.”

Advance booking is essential and must be made individually to each path. Information on how to book can be found at www.pilgrimpath.ie.

FEBRUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

43

Welcome to Ulster

The Giants Causway Photo: @storytravelers The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone.

The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland.

County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise.

County Donegal is in the northwest of the

‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak.

The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.

new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Mount Errigal

Belfast Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or 44

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well.

Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the

Linsfort Church, Co. Donegal

Recommended Bars in Ulster The Crown Liquor Saloon

Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace!

Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin. 51 Donegall St., Belfast Tel: 028 9023 3768

White’s Tavern

Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down.

2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3080

Kelly’s Cellars Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food.

46 Great Victoria St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3187

This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city.

30-32 Bank St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 6058

The Duke Of York

The John Hewitt

One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further.

7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 1062

Peadar O’Donnell’s

There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore.

Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry.

59-63 Waterloo St., Derry Tel: 028 7126 7295 FEBRUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

45

Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox

Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014.

Chic, smart and very good.

The Ginger Bistro

Coco

1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121

55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers.

1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811

The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger.

7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421

Deane’s Restaurant

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150

Shu

They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table.

253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655

Vanilla Restaurant

Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.

Telfords Restaurant

Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268

Lough Erne Resort

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000

Sun Kee Restaurant

One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years.

42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics.

36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134

46

Sakura

In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant.

82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590

Speranza Restaurant

This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

Lusty Beg

This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300

16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

Explore Ulster

Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end.

The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast.

Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there.

In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value.

Dunluce Castle With a rich history, in a stunning, location, Dunluce Castle on the coast of Antrim is just waiting to be explored. Visitor information includes an audio visual tour of the castle, with a ‘treasure hunt’ encouraging younger visitors to explore.

You can also download a Dunluce Castle app for iPhone and Android devices, available free of charge from the App Store and Google Play.

The Old Bushmills Distillery Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness.

Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens.

Ulster American Folk Park Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories.

Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier.

Down County Museum Situated next to the Down Cathedral, the Down County Museum houses modern galleries telling the stories of the area and fantastic temporary exhibitions. Learn about the museum’s history as a gaol and see the Downpatrick High Cross before relaxing in their new Cathedral View Tea Room.

Belleek Pottery One of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages.

Glenveagh National Park The second largest national park in Ireland, Glenveagh is a remote and beautiful wilderness in the north-west of Donegal.

Full of rugged mountains, pristine lakes and tumbling waterfalls. Visitors can also take a tour of Glenveagh Castle on the banks of Lough Veagh and take a walk through the beautiful walled gardens, which boast a multitude of exotic plant.

Florence Court Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours.

Follow in the

Footsteps of

GIANTS The Giant’s Causeway in Co Antrim is a place that really needs to be seen to be believed.

The natural wonder is flanked by the wild North Atlantic Ocean and a landscape of dramatic cliffs. For centuries, it has inspired artists, stirred scientific debate and captured the imagination of all those who gaze upon its treasures.

Along the Atlantic Ocean coast, thousands of basalt columns lay alongside and in the sea.

Staring at these 40,000 hexagonal-shaped pillars, it seems impossible such symmetry, such design could occur naturally in nature. In fact, legend has it the Giant’s Causeway was the work of a mythical Irish hunter-warrior.

According to folklore, the columns are the remains of a causeway built by a giant – hence the name.The story goes that the Irish giant Fionn mac Cumhaill (or Finn MacCool), from the Fenian Cycle of Gaelic mythology, was challenged to a fight by the Scottish giant Benandonner. Fionn accepted the challenge and built the causeway across the North Channel so that the two giants could meet.

In one version of the story, Fionn defeats Benandonner. In another, Fionn hides from Benandonner when he realises that his foe is much bigger than he is. Fionn’s wife, Oonagh, disguises Fionn as a baby and tucks him in a cradle.

48

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

In the second version, when Benandonner sees the size of the ‘baby’, he reckons that its father, Fionn, must be a giant among giants.

He flees back to Scotland in fright, destroying the causeway behind him so that Fionn would be unable to chase him down. Across the sea, there are identical basalt columns at Fingal’s Cave on the Scottish isle of Staffa. It is possible that this take on the story of Fionn was influenced by this.

There is, however, a more scientific explanation for the natural wonder. Between 66 and 100 million years ago, there was the Cretaceous period. This was a time of significant global tectonic change, resulting in the breakup of the supercontinents Gondwana and Laurasia and the formation of the Atlantic Ocean.

Around 50 to 60 million years ago, this rifting continued. Extensive fissures opened up in the earth’s crust, resembling those seen in Iceland or Hawaii today. They allowed highly fluid molten basalt to intrude through the crust to form a massive lava plateau.

The Giant’s Causeway is comprised of these basalts. Successive lava flows erupted onto the surface, pooling in natural hollows in the landscape. The renowned hexagonal

pillars of the Causeway were then formed from the cooling of these immense pools of lava.

As they cooled, they lost heat to the atmosphere at their top, and to the colder country rock through their base. These cooling fronts moved towards each other to the centre as the lava solidified. As it did, the resulting basalt contracted laterally and cracked into mostly five and six-sided columns.

Nowadays, you can walk to the stones for free. However, the best way to experience The Giant’s Causeway is through The Giant’s Causeway Visitor Experience. Costing £11 for adults and £5.50 for children online, tickets include an official guided tour, outdoor audio guides helping to explain how the Causeway was formed in 11 languages and an audio guide available for visually impaired visitors.

Guests, meanwhile, also have access to a grab and go café, local and unique gifts for sale in the on-site gift shop. a Tourist Information Centre, a Bureau de Change and three car parks.

For the month of February, The Giant’s Causeway Visitor Centre is open from 9am to 5pm, with last admission one hour before closing. See www.nationaltrust.org.uk/giantscauseway for more details.

FEBRUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

49

Great Irish Writers

MARTIN MCDONAGH

B

orn in London, 1970, to a mother from Sligo and a father from Galway, Martin McDonagh originally wanted to work in film. Following failed projects in that field, he began sending unsolicited copies of plays he had written to various theatres until the Druid Theatre in Galway took note.

His reputation quickly grew thanks to his Leenane Trilogy, featuring The Beauty Queen of Leenane (1996), A Skull in Connemara (1997) and The Lonesome West (1997). First reception to these dark comictragic tales about psychopaths in rural Ireland was polarized, with many criticising their profanity and extreme violence, as well as McDonagh’s disregard for theatre in favour of cinema. However, as his works continued to be performed – in 1997, he had four plays in production at once in London – his anarchic taboo shattering plots, twisty scripts, depiction of familial dysfunction and exploration of contemporary issues earned acclaim.

McDonagh is renowned for his blend of influences, drawing upon the fast-paced dialogue of Quentin Tarantino, the absurdity of Samuel Beckett and the

50

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - FEBRUARY 2020

violence of the Grand Guignol.

While some have criticised the playwright for being derivative, McDonagh credits the Irish settings of his early plays – inspired by summers spent in Connemara – as helping him find his own distinct voice.

McDonagh then wrote two more Irish set plays The Cripple of Inishmaan (1997) and The Lieutenant of Inishmore (2001), as well as his most ambitious theatre work The Pillowman (2003), a dark fairytale set in a police state. He achieved his dream of working in cinema, writing and directing the short film Six Shooter in 2004. Produced by the Irish Film Board, it centres on a grieving widower stuck on a train with a sociopathic teen. The film won the Academy Award for Best Live Action Short.

Next came his debut full length film In Bruges (2008), featuring Six Shooter star Brendan Gleeson and Colin Farrell as hitmen laying low in the Belgian capital. He followed this with Seven Psychopaths (2012), a selfreflexive crime comedy about a struggling writer named Martin (Farrell again), who gets in over his head researching a script.

His last film Three Billboards

Outside Ebbing, Missouri (2017) starred Frances McDormand as a mother trying to get justice for her daughter’s unsolved murder.

The drama won Best Motion Picture – Drama and Best Screenplay at the Golden Globes, while McDormand won Best Actress at the Oscars.

He continues to work in theatre with later plays Hangmen (2015) and A Very Very Very Dark Matter (2018) premiering in London. Meanwhile 2011’s A Behanding in Spokane opened on Broadway starring Christopher Walken as a man searching for his missing hand.

Currently running at the Gaiety until March 14 is a production of The Lieutenant of Inishmore, his 90s set play about an IRA man named Mad Padraic who returns home for revenge when his beloved cat is killed. Its ensemble cast includes Alex Murphy (one half of The Young Offenders), Aisling Kearns (Asking for It, Darklands), Cillian O’Gairbhi (Blood), Don Wycherley (Bachelors Walk, Sing Street) and Paul Mescal (lead of the upcoming TV series Normal People). See it to witness McDonagh’s acerbic wit and crackling dialogue first-hand.