Travel Ireland Volume 6 Issue 65 by Travel Ireland Magazine

Travelireland ireland magazine

Volume 6 Issue 65 September 2019

Cork Folk Festival to Celebrate 40 Years in Style Dublin Theatre Festival’s Jam-Packed Programme

The Miami Showband Story

and the Gaiety’s Stellar End-of-Year Line-Up

The Low Down on Gallery Zozimus’ New Great Exhibition New Ross Piano Festival’s Fabulous Fourteenth Year

TG4 All-Ireland Finals Day to Kick-Off

Cobh Blues ‘n’ Roots Fest is Back

Wicklow Film Festival

Pat Liddy Marvels at the

Oscar Wilde Memorial Sculpture

The Wonderful

The Spooktacular Ghostbus Kids Tour

Ireland’s Biggest History Festival Returns – and It’s All Free!

MCD PRESENTS

THE SURPRISES AND DELIGHTS OF ABBEY ROAD THE BEATLES’ FINAL ALBUM – 50 YEARS ON WITH ACCLAIMED, AWARD-WINNING TUNE IN WRITER

MARK LEWISOHN

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CONTENTS 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 19 20 22 23 24 25 26 28 30 32 34 36 37 38 41 42 44 45 46 47 48 49 50

Welcome to Leinster Gaiety Theatre TG4 All-Ireland Finals Day Theatre Oscar Wilde by Pat Liddy Dublin Theatre Festival Shopping Explore Leinster Ghostbus Kids Tour Leinster Restaurants Leinster Bars Dublin Festival of History Wicklow Film Festival Welcome to Munster Explore Munster Munster Restaurants Munster Bars Cobh Heritage Centre Cobh Blues n Roots Fest Cork Folk Festival Welcome to Connaught Explore Connaught Connaught Bars Connaught Restaurants New Ross Piano Festival Gallery Zozimus Exhibition Welcome to Ulster Ulster Bars Explore Ulster Ulster Restaurants Great Irish Writers

Ellen Media Communications Ltd Suite 4, Talbot Business Centre, 19 Talbot St , Dublin 1. Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag

Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome to our September issue! Whether this is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. In our latest issue, we shine a spotlight on some fantastic events happening across the country. These include the Cork Folk Festival, Cobh Blues ‘n’ Roots Fest, the Dublin Festival of History, the Dublin Theatre Festival, the New Ross Piano Festival, the TG4 All-Ireland Ladies Football Finals and the Wicklow Film Festival. We also give readers the low-down on the best theatre to see – including the stellar programme the Gaiety Theatre have in store for the rest of the year – as well as the new DoDublin Ghostbus Tour aimed at children. Meanwhile, Pat Liddy discusses the Oscar Wilde Memorial Sculpture in Merrion Square and the magazine also highlights a great new exhibition at Gallery Zozimus. Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heartfelt céad míle fáilte and hope you enjoy your stay. Taisteal sásta (Happy Travels).

Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Stephen Porzio (stephen@ellenmediacom.ie) Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Contributors: Pat Liddy, Angeline Le Mercier, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’ , Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin, Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael McLaughlin, Roma Keeley. We wish to record our thanks to Michael Bates, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. We would also like to thank Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and 10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.

SEPTEMBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city. If you want to escape to the country without

GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country. County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - SEPTEMBER 2019

Phoenix Park, Dublin through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone. Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ

St Kevin’s Church, Glendalough

All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the

smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June. Laois is where you can try your hand at a

Round Tower, Glendalough range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum. Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor. Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!

ALL-IRELAND

L ADIES FOOTBALL FINALS Croke Park

Sunday, 15th of September, 2019

TICKETS ON SALE NOW!

lgfa.tickets.ie All usual GAA ticket outlets LGFA Office: 01-836 3156 or info@lgfa.ie

n a f r e p o r #p

The

Gaiety Theatre s Stellar End of

Photo from previous run © Pat Redmond

Year Line-Up

The Miami Showband Story – Sep 17 – 21

The Miami Showband Story is a new stage musical about the iconic act once hailed as ‘the Irish Beatles’. The group’s hay day was in the 60’s and 70’s where they entertained both Catholics and Protestants throughout all of Ireland. However, in 1975 tragedy befell The Miami Showband as they were attacked by loyalist paramilitaries travelling home from a concert. Three members of the group were murdered. The musical will deal with the killings of 1975. However, surviving band mate and sax player Des Lee told Travel Ireland the show will put a greater emphasis on the joy the Miami Showband brought to audiences of the time. “We didn’t want the play to be leaning heavily on the massacre,” says Lee. “Instead, we wanted it to explore what the Miami Showband was all about – how successful they were and what they meant to their fans. They were heroes of the time. This is a show that will bring smiles, laughter, tears and joy. It’s got everything. I can envisage people hearing ‘Clap Your Hands and Stomp Your Feet’ and dancing in the isles.” Tickets cost from €20.

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - SEPTEMBER 2019

Asking for It – Oct 9 – 26

A stage adaptation of Louise O’Neill’s devastating novel of the same name, Asking for It shines an unﬂinching light on the experience of a young woman whose life is changed forever by a horrific act of violence. One night in a small town in Co. Cork, where everyone knows everyone, things spiral terrifyingly out of control. What will happen now? – to Emma? To her family? To the others? Audience response to Asking for It has been overwhelming. The initial run in Cork broke every box office record at the Everyman. Meanwhile, the following run at the Abbey Theatre also sold out well in advance of the production even opening. Those who missed Asking for It previously will have another chance to experience this timely production when it returns to the Gaiety Theatre next month. Tickets cost from €16.

The Exorcist – Oct 29 – Nov 2 The best-selling novel, the Oscar-winning film, and now the spine-tingling live production - the new stage adaptation of The Exorcist will travel from the West End to Dublin for the week of Halloween. Inspired by true events, the story centres on young girl Regan and her increasingly strange sickness. When the medical profession fails to provide answers, her desperate mother Chris turns to a local priest for help. But before Father Damien can tackle what’s before him, he must overcome his own shaken

beliefs, as this fight is for more than just one girl’s soul. This new stage adaptation features the voice of Ian McKellen (Lord of the Rings, X-Men) as the Demon. Tickets cost from €21.

The Matchmaker – Nov 4 – 9

John B. Keane’s The Matchmaker is returning to the Gaiety stage for the last time. Based on the legendary Irish writer’s novella Letters of a Country Matchmaker, the play follows the efforts of Dicky Mick Dicky O’Connor to make matches for the

lonely and lovelorn. Keane (who died in 2002) was acclaimed for his well-observed depictions of Irish life. The Matchmaker serves as an exploration of rural loneliness, focusing on the generations of people who only began to look for companionship and love late in life, once their duties as minder of aging parents were concluded. Comedian Jon Kenny (d’Unbelievables, Father Ted) stars in the production, alongside actress Mary McEvoy (long running RTE series Glenroe). Tickets cost from €20.

Aladdin – Gaiety Theatre Panto - Nov 24 – Jan 5 It wouldn’t be Christmas without a visit to the Gaiety Panto. The Gaiety Theatre has hosted the annual Christmas Panto each year since 1873. Today, families come from far and wide to experience the show. For many it has become as much a family Christmas tradition as Santa himself. Following on from last year’s panto The Snow Queen is the magical and ever popular Aladdin. Telling the story of the titular young thief who with the help of a magic genie tries to woo the beautiful wealthy Princess Jasmine, tickets cost from €19.50.

The Lieutenant of Inishmore – From Jan 27, 2020 Directed by Andrew Flynn, The Lieutenant of Inishmore is set in Ireland in 1993. It revolves around the killing of INLA man Mad Padraic’s cat, which occurs while the owner is out “chip-shop bombing in Northern Ireland”. Loving his pet more than life itself, when Padraig returns he is hell bent on revenge. The play was written by Oscar Award-winning director and playwright Martin McDonagh, whose work is known and loved by both theatre and film audiences alike (In Bruges, Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri). Audiences ﬂocked to see The Gaiety Theatre production of The Cripple of Inishmaan last spring. Tickets for The Lieutenant of Inishmore cost from €21. Tickets for all these shows can be bought in person at the Gaiety Theatre box office and at Ticketmaster outlets, over the phone by calling 08 18 719 388 and online by visiting Ticketmaster.ie

SEPTEMBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

TG4 All-Ireland Finals Day to Kick-Oﬀ September 15 “A feeling like no other.” That’s what it’s like to play at Croke Park on TG4 All-Ireland Final Day, according to Dublin star Carla Rowe.

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - SEPTEMBER 2019

In front of a record 50,141 attendance at Croke Park last September, Rowe scored two goals as Dublin retained the All-Ireland Senior title and the Brendan Martin Cup. “Playing at Croke Park on All-Ireland Final day is a feeling like no other,” says the GAA player. “The excitement and nerves are unbelievable – and to be able to go out and play in front of so many people is just brilliant.” “I started playing football when I was 13. From the age of 14, I realised this was something I could do one day and I made that my goal – to one day play at Croke Park.” Dublin experienced the heartbreak of losing senior finals in 2014, 2015 and 2016, all against Cork, before defeating Mayo in the 2017 decider, and Cork in 2018. Now, Dublin are back for a

crack at a third successive TG4 All-Ireland Senior title win. The Sky Blues defeated Cork at the semi-final stage and will now face Galway at Croke Park on Sunday, September 15, for the game’s biggest prize. For Dublin, this will be a sixth successive Final appearance, while Galway are preparing for their first Final since 2005. The Tribeswomen defeated Connacht rivals and neighbours Mayo at the semi-final stage, as the last-four ties were played at Croke Park for the first time in LGFA history. Supporters turned out in their droves for two entertaining games, with an attendance of 10,886 descending on the Drumcondra venue as Dublin and Galway made sure of Final slots. TG4 All-Ireland Finals Day is the annual highlight of the Ladies Gaelic Football

Association calendar, and the day when the AllIreland Junior, Intermediate and Senior champions are crowned. The action will get underway at 11.45am, when Fermanagh, the 2017 Champions, take on Louth, who were runners-up last year. Fermanagh came through the challenge of London at the semi-final stage, as Louth accounted for Antrim. Having experienced the heartbreak of losing out to Limerick in the 2018 decider, Louth will be determined to go one step better and get their hands on the West County Hotel Cup. But Fermanagh will hope that their previous winning experience from two years ago will stand to them, as they look to win the coveted silverware again and return to the Intermediate ranks. Another recent winner, Tipperary, will contest the TG4 All-Ireland Intermediate Final at 1.45pm.

Tipperary were winners two years ago, and they now find themselves up against Meath, who were the 2018 runners-up. The question is: will Tipp make it two TG4 AllIreland Intermediate title wins in three seasons? Or can Meath make up for last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s loss and land the Mary Quinn Memorial Cup? All will be revealed over the course of what promises to be a spectacular afternoon at Croke Park on Sunday, September 15, with Dublin and Galway set to do battle at 4pm. You can be part of the action by getting your tickets for the Finals on Sunday, September 15, NOW. Tickets are available online at lgfa.tickets.ie, at all usual GAA outlets, and by contacting the Ladies Gaelic Football Association office on 01-8363156 or at info@lgfa.ie.

SEPTEMBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Theatre Mermaid Arts Centre

Defending the Caveman by Rob Becker

Have you ever wondered why men can’t multitask, or why women can’t change a tyre? Wonder no more as the longest running one-person show in Broadway and Las Vegas history is here to challenge and demystify the differences between the sexes. Starring stand-up comedian Tom O’Mahony, the Olivier Award winning show, Defending the Caveman has won the hearts of millions across the globe and now tours Ireland for the first time.

Dates: Sep 2 - 14 Tel: 01 887 2200 or visit www.abbeytheatre.ie Also at the Abbey this month: Black Jam Sep 7, Champions of Dance Sep 7 - 14, Notions Eleven Sep 7 – 14, Collapsible Sep 17 – 21, On Ice Sep 18 – 21, Last Orders at the Dockside Sep 23 – Oct 26, Pasolini’s Salò Redubbed Sep 26 – Oct 5

The Gate Theatre Beckett’s Room

Dates: Sep 27 Tel: 01 272 4030 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie Also at the Mermaid Arts Centre this month: What I (Don’t) Know About Autism Sep 6, Pasolini’s Salò Redubbed Sep 13

Bord Gáis Energy Theatre Angela’s Ashes The Musical

As his parents struggle to provide for him and his brothers in 1940’s Ireland, we follow young Frank’s escapades and experiences in a Dickensian landscape populated by a drunken father, a helpless mother, pompous priests, bullying schoolmasters, money-lenders and dancing-teachers. Based on the Pulitzer prize-winning memoir from Frank McCourt, Angela’s Ashes is brought to the stage featuring unforgettable songs and melodies. Dates: Sep 9 - 14 Tel: 01 677 7999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie Also at the Bord Gais this month: Grease Sep 17 – 28, Cabaret Oct 1 – 5

The Abbey Theatre

This Beautiful Village by Lisa Tierney-Keogh

On a quiet street in leafy, suburban Dublin, local residents meet about a piece of graffiti. Who did it? What does it mean? And what’s to be done about it? The Abbey say This Beautiful Village is a razor-sharp new play that exposes every side of what it means to co-exist in Ireland today. Set over one night, six people will confront their pride, prejudice and privilege.

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - SEPTEMBER 2019

A play without performers, Beckett’s Room tells the story of the apartment in Paris where Samuel Beckett lived with his partner Suzanne during WWII. A story of art and resistance, the audience listen through headphones and gaze upon a spectacle of absence. This lack of bodies on stage focuses viewers more intently on their stories, on the world changing around us, and changed by us. From the makers of LIPPY, Chekhov’s First Play and Hamnet, this is the biography of a room, and an invitation to bear witness to a world as it disappears.

The Miami Showband Story is a new stage musical about the iconic act once hailed as ‘the Irish Beatles’. The group’s hay day was in the 60s and 70s when they entertained both Catholics and Protestants throughout all of Ireland. However, in 1975 tragedy befell The Miami Showband as they were attacked by loyalist paramilitaries travelling home from a concert. Three members of the group were murdered. The musical will deal with the killings of 1975. However, surviving bandmate and sax player Des Lee told Travel Ireland the show will put a greater emphasis on the joy the Miami Showband brought to audiences of the time. “We didn’t want the play to be leaning heavily on the massacre,” says Lee. “Instead, we wanted it to explore what the Miami Showband was all about – how successful they were and what they meant to their fans. They were heroes of the time. This is a show that will bring smiles, laughter, tears and joy. It’s got everything. I can envisage people hearing ‘Clap Your Hands and Stomp Your Feet’ and dancing in the isles.” Dates: Sep 17 - 21 Tel: 0818 719 388 or visit www.gaietytheatre.ie Also at the Gaiety this month: Riverdance Jun 11 – Sep 15, The Playboy of the Western World Sep 25 – Oct 5

Smock Alley Theatre

Dreamgun Film Reads Strikes Back

Dates: Sep 19 – 28 Tel 01 874 4045 or visit www.gatetheatre.ie Also at the Gate this month: Incantata Sep 4 – 14, Faultline Sep 26 – Dec 1

The Olympia Theatre Crowman by Katie Holly

Jon Kenny (d’Unbelievables, Father Ted) plays numerous characters but primarily Dan, a man in his 50s who is living alone. He feels himself an outsider looking in on the community. When he hears about the passing of a dear friend, he is © Richard H. Smith forced to look back on his own troubled youth and face up to his demons. Dates: Sep 4 - 7 Tel: 01 679 3323 or visit www.olympia.ie

After their sell-out, award-winning and critically acclaimed run last year, Dreamgun strike back with a whole new line-up of film reads for you to binge. Expect classic film scripts, rewritten with jokes and nonsense, read by unprepared comedians.

The Gaiety Theatre

Dates: Sep 17 - 21 Tel 01 677 0014 or visit www.smockalley.com

The Miami Showband Story

Also at Smock Alley this month: Ordinary Days Sep 5 – 7, Moop Sep 7 – 22, Symphony of Worms Sep 9 – 15, LIVE Feed Sep 10 – 15, Sink Sep 10 – 15, Nine Weeks Sep 10 – 15, Birthright Sep 13 – 15, Afloat Sep 17 – 22, Vespertilio Sep 17 – 22, Minefield Sep 17 – 22, GirlPlay Sep 17 - 22, Starlet Sep 17 – 22, 48 Sep 24 – 28

Oscar Wilde by Pat Liddy

If you want your child to be noticed, then give him or her a series of names that stand out from the crowd. Such was the case for Oscar Fingal O’Flahertie Wills Wilde, but he turned out not to need his long-winded nomenclature to achieve everlasting fame. His own genius did that for him in ample measure. To really appreciate the man and his work this writer feels that no visit to Dublin is complete without making a courtesy call to his great statue which sits, almost arrogantly, aloft a thirty-tonne quartz rock in Merrion Square Park. It’s appropriately placed opposite to his childhood home at Number One, Merrion Square (now the American College). Very rarely does a city have a commemorative statue that stands so much out of the ordinary that it becomes a ‘must-see’ for visitors and citizens alike. Copenhagen has its Mermaid and Brussels its Manneken Pis. However, I believe this one stands head and shoulders above all the others, both literally and metaphorically.

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - SEPTEMBER 2019

scar Wilde was born in 1854 in nearby 21 Westland Row to remarkable parents. His mother, Lady Jane Francesca Elgee (1821-1896) was a patriot and poet in her own right and in her early years frequently got herself noticed by the authorities for her politically seditious poems and articles. Settling down she married Sir William Wilde (1815-1876) a renowned eye and ear physician, archaeologist and collector of Irish folklore. Oscar received his first name in honour conjointly from an Irish mythological hero and of the then King of Sweden on whose cataract William Wilde successfully operated. The family moved to a more splendid house on Merrion Square in 1855 where many notables in the field of writing and art frequented their salon. Oscar himself attended Portora Royal School in Enniskillen before spending a glittering few years in Dublin’s Trinity College followed by an equally successful time in Oxford University. He spent the next twenty or so years dazzling British

society with his wit, plays, poems and lifestyle. But tragedy soon loomed and then crashed over this genius of words. In 1864, Sir William was sued successfully for allegedly seducing a colleague’s daughter, which wrecked his reputation and led to more or less bankrupting him. He died twelve years later and left his wife penniless. Then in 1867 Oscar lost his nine-year-old sister, Isola, to fever. He forever carried a lock of her hair on his person. In 1871 a fire claimed the lives of his two half-sisters. Oscars’ marriage of 1884 to Constance Mary Lloyd virtually ends in 1895 when he is imprisoned following a charge of gross indecency. This was at a time when acts of homosexuality were illegal. Over the next few years both his mother and his wife would die. His two years of hard labour in prison are followed, on his release, by the rejection of society and personal poverty. He wandered Europe for a couple of years before dying, possibly from cerebral meningitis, at the age of only 46 in a low-grade Paris hotel and was buried in a pauper’s grave. He was later reburied

wine, fertility and theatre Dionysus and Constance, Oscar’s wife, Osborne says that he depicted her as around 6 months pregnant with their first child which was supposedly the time when Oscar had his first homosexual encounter with Robbie Ross. Constance is looking across the path in his general direction but not directly at her husband. Partly funded by a sponsorship from Guinness the statue group was unveiled by Wilde’s only grandson, Merlin Holland, in 1997 (Constance changed the family name from Wilde to Holland when he was sentenced to jail to avoid scandal for her children). Behind the statue of Oscar is a children’s playground which is themed to one of Oscar’s children’s stories, The Selfish Giant. Oscar memorably once noted that “The only thing worse than being talked about, is not being talked about”. He needn’t have worried. Wilde doesn’t need a statue to attain his rightful place among the immortals, but he would surely approve of Danny Osborne’s work as equal to and wonderfully reﬂecting his own exceptional genius. Dublin is the winner on both accounts.

in Père Lachaise Cemetery where his monument and grave can be visited today. So back to his statue! Oscar Wilde was a colourful and ﬂamboyant character and loved to dress as a dandy. So the talented sculptor, Danny Osborne, created an exceptional statue using different exotically coloured rocks. The shoes and socks are made from black Indian granite. The jacket is crafted from green jade and its pink cuffs and collar are from a rare Norwegian stone called thulite. The trousers are cut from larvikite, also from Norway. For the head and hands, a pale-coloured jade from Guatemala was used. This jade was so hard that it took weeks to just polish each section. Jade represents immortality in many cultures, but Wilde has achieved this anyway. Fronting the statue of Wilde are “the pillar of life” and “the pillar of art”. A number of memorable quotations from Oscar’s writings are cut into the four stone sides of each pillar. These quotes were chosen by various people associated with Irish cultural life and are written out in each individual’s own handwriting style. On the top of the pillars are two bronzes: the torso of the Greek god of

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s l’ a v ti s e F e tr a e h T n li b Du Jam-Packed Programme Dublin Theatre Festival returns for 18 days and nights of exceptional Irish and international work from September 26 until October 13 taking place across the Irish capital.

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - SEPTEMBER 2019

The packed programme features everything from world premieres of new work to reimagined classic texts, and from inspiring international projects to an expanded season of theatre for children. According to organisers, the works of this year’s festival deal with many contemporary topics but “also reach beyond those to a poetic enquiry about the times we live in.” In terms of homegrown shows, one highlight is a new take on JM Synge’s controversial masterpiece The Playboy of the Western World in the Gaiety (from Sep 24). The classic play tells the story of Christy Mahon, a young man who runs away from his farm, claiming he killed his father. The Abbey Theatre will present the world premiere of a new work by Dermot Bolger. Titled Last Orders at the Dockside, it centres around a reunion of dockers. Over the course of an evening, hidden tensions expose fault lines in their complex relationships (from Sep 26). Also at the venue from Oct 9 is Redemption Falls, an adaptation of the novel of the same name by Joseph O’Connor. Hecuba, by Marina Carr, will have its Irish premiere in the Projects Arts Centre (from Sep 25). The play is a passionate re-imaging of the aftermath of the Trojan War and the events surrounding its iconic characters. The Alternative by Michael Patrick and Oisín Kearney (being performed at the Pavilion Theatre and Draiocht over the festival) asks: what if Ireland was still part of the UK? Based in 2019, it is the eve of the Referendum and British Prime Minister Ursula Lysaght is returning to her hometown of Dublin to convince voters to remain. Coming to the Gate from Oct 2 is the world premiere of The Beacon, a new play from Nancy Harris. Beiv, a celebrated artist, has moved from suburban Dublin to her holiday cottage on an island off the coast of West Cork. But a dark shadow from the past hangs over her. When her estranged son and his new young wife arrive to stay, she is faced with some difficult questions. Also at the Gate is the world premiere of Beckett’s Room (from Sep 24). A play without performers, it tells the story of the apartment in Paris where Samuel Beckett lived with his partner Suzanne during WWII. Following his acclaimed re-imagining of the famous ballet, Swan Lake/Loch na hEala, Michael Keegan Dolan and Teaċ Daṁsa return with the world premiere of a new mythic yet timely production – Mám. A meeting place between soloist and ensemble, classical and traditional, the local

and universal – it brings together concertina player Cormac Begley, the European classical contemporary collective Stargaze and 12 international dancers at O’Reilly Theatre (from Sep 25). Actor, musician and now writer Ray Scannell will debut The Bluffer’s Guide to Suburbia at the Project Arts Centre (from Sep 26). A new apocalyptic black comedy with live music and original songs, the show lovingly exposes a generation of adult children struggling to fit into the nuclear family ideal, and trying to make art in the face of rental crises and global catastrophe. There’s also a whole host of noteworthy shows coming from overseas. After someone threw a burger at them and shouted a transphobic slur, performance artist Travis Alabanza became obsessed with the food. Carving out a place for themselves as one of the UK’s most prominent trans voices, Alabanza presents a performance in Burgerz (from Oct 9) at Smock Alley that festival organisers say is timely, unsettling and powerful. Also from the UK is the multiaward-winning How to Win Against History. Coming to the Civic from Sep 25, it is a frothy glossy costume drama about the 5th Marquis of Anglesey who burned brightly, briefly and transvestitely at the end of the 19th Century before he died at 29 and

his family burned every record of him. Following sell out runs at Edinburgh Festival Fringe and London’s National Theatre, Us/Them comes to the Pavilion Theatre from Oct 8. Organisers say the show is a thrilling piece of theatre which retells, from the perspective of a child, three days when 1,200 people were held hostage by terrorists in Beslan, Russia. The Australian Nicola Gunn returns to Dublin Theatre Festival with a simple premise – what do you do if you see someone throw stones at a duck. Shifting from anecdotes to comedy to the unexpectedly profound she dissects the excruciating realms of human behaviour and navigates the moral and ethical complexities of intervention in Piece for Person and Ghetto Blaster (from Sep 26 at the Samuel Beckett Theatre). Portuguese show Sopro tells the story of a prompter at a theatre. After 40 years, she reluctantly steps out of the shadows and shares stories from her decades of working. The play comes to the O’Reilly Theatre from Oct 11. Booking for festival shows can be done online at dublintheatrefestival.ie, over the phone at +353 1 677 8899 and in person at the DTF box office. The latter is located at Festival House on 12 East Essex Street East, Temple Bar, Dublin 2.

SEPTEMBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Shopping Powerscourt Centre

Located in Dublin’s Creative Quarter on the bustling South William Street is the Powerscourt Centre. Housed in a stunning Georgian townhouse, the Powerscourt Centre has over 40 shops and restaurants and offers shoppers a wonderful city centre shopping experience. The centre offers a range of fashion stores, such as All Saints, French Connection and Mary Grant and if antiques are your thing then the Powerscourt Centre is the place to go. There are a number of antique stores in the centre, including Courtville Antiques, Delphi Antiques, Lilly Fine Art, The Silver Shop and Monte Cristo. If you’re planning a wedding in the near future, the Centre also offers a number of superb wedding outlets www.powerscourtcentre.ie

Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre Located at the top of Grafton Street, in the heart of Dublin city centre, Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre hosts a wide variety of top retailers. Household names such as Dunnes Stores, Argos, Boots, Eason, United Colors of Benetton, Mothercare, Elverys, Golden Discs and TK Maxx can be found here. When you’re finished shopping, you can relax in one of the many lovely cafes, head for a pint in one of the many nearby pubs, or take a stroll across the road in St Stephen’s Green. www.stephensgreen.com

Jam Art Factory

Courtville: Antique & Vintage Jewellers

Courtville is a traditional Dublin shop with a friendly atmosphere, in business over 50 years and based in the Antique Gallery within the Historic Powerscourt Townhouse. Their collection of vintage, antique and estate jewellery are sure to capture your imagination. They are envisioning a more personal, accessible and enjoyable world to trade fine jewellery and engagement rings. Authenticity is guaranteed on every piece. Instagram: @matthew.weldons Antique Gallery - Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, 59 South William Street, Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (1) 6794042

Tights Department Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear. They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks.

Celtic Whiskey Shop

Ireland’s premier Irish whiskey specialists with a remarkable selection of beloved, rare and hard to find bottlings and shop exclusives. It boasts a knowledgeable and friendly staff who are proud and passionate about products, and are always on hand to offer advice. Feel free to pop in where we serve up in-store whiskey tastings all day everyday! If you're travelling, our staff can either wrap your purchases in protective wrapping or arrange shipping to national and international destinations. 27 – 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6759744 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com

Mourne Antiques

Unit 108, 1st Floor, Stephen's Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2, Ireland D02 VF67 Shop online: www.tightsdepartment.ie (deliver worldwide)

Designer Exchange

Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row. 64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 www.JamArtFactory.com and www.JamArtPrints.com 16

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - SEPTEMBER 2019

Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vuitton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands. 53 Dawnson Street, Dublin 2. 35 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd

Mourne Antiques have been operating in the thriving town of Letterkenny for 25 years. They offer a range of beautiful antiques, such as ceramics, silver, furniture and collectables, all with their own particular history and charm. You could find anything from a rare book to a mink coat! They specialise in a wide range of jewellery. From Victorian gold and precious stone pieces to Contemporary diamond and Engagement rings to 1940’s costume jewellery, their stock is sure to please. 38 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny, Co. Donegal 074 9126457 www.mourneantiques.com

Recommended Shopping The Donegal Shop

The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products. The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists. Mention Travel Ireland to get a 10% discount 2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com

James Fox

Puro

Puro offers innovative collections of contemporary urban-wear and luxury sneakers from emerging talents as well as world renowned designers. Brands include Pal Zileri, Joop!, Baldessarini, Guess, Philippe Model, Gold Brothers, Android Homme, Mallet and many more. Puro is the only Irish stockist of many of these brands and while we feel a visit to this beautiful store is a must to truly appreciate the collections, you can also shop or browse first online at puromenswear.com 34 Wicklow Street, Dublin, Ireland info@puro.ie Call (01) 558 1406

The Kilkenny Shop

Amelia’s is home to a selection of beautiful gallery pieces that are perfect for the home or a present for someone special. They stock a range of art and studio ceramics lovingly handcrafted by makers from all over the country, specialising in local makers from the North-West of Ireland. There are little gifts and keepsakes for the everyday too! All pieces are handpicked by owner Frances Spears. She has over 20 years experience in the design and antiques business so you know you’re in good hands when you pay a visit to Amelia’s Irish Design. 29 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny Co. Donegal 087 2434060 www.amelias.ie

Mackintosh by Francis Campelli

Mackintoshes were first produced in Ireland in 1889 and Francis Campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the most experienced hands The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium when you visit this store. for Irish designed products; from fashion and They offer the finest quality, waterproof jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. For over five decades, the Kilkenny Shop has Mackintoshes for men and women from stock or made to measure been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen from €485, as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories. Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce. 6 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 6777066 www.kilkennyshop.com

Irish Linen House

For over 135 years, James Fox Cigar and Whiskey Store has been Dublin’s focal point for lovers of Irish whiskey and premium Cuban cigars. Here you will find Ireland’s largest selection of handmade Cuban cigars, including rare and vintage stock. James Fox also stock a large range of premium Irish whiskeys and spirits to satisfy the most discerning palates. Tax-Free shopping available in-store and online. 119 Grafton Street, Dublin 2, Ireland. Tel: (01) 677 0533 Email: info@jamesfox.ie Website: www.jamesfox.ie

Amelia’s Irish Design

Irish Linen House create handmade tablerunners, placemats and napkins made from the finest Irish linen. Each piece of the collection is uniquely made, fusing historical elements with a modern, contemporary edge and has caught the attention of worldwide stores including Barneys of New York. Just up the road from the Jameson Distillery, their Smithfield store is the perfect place to pick up a unique piece of Ireland. Nr. Jameson Distillery, Bow Street Smithfield Village, Dublin 7 www.irishlinenhouse.com 01-5329572 / 083-3010502 01 820 8774

46 South William Street, Dublin 2 01 6088608 www.franciscampelli.com

Article

This charming store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland. They stock homeware from around the world, including Irish designers - with everything from Irish woollen throws, glass vases and stationery on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice. Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2 01 679 9268 www.articledublin.com SEPTEMBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Explore Leinster

The Chester Beatty Library

The War Memorial Gardens When you are visiting IMMA in Kilmainham, you should walk on over to Islandbridge about half a kilometer further on. The gardens there are dedicated to the memory of the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in the 1st World War. The names of all the soldiers are contained in the beautifully illustrated Harry Clarke manuscripts in the granite bookrooms in the gardens. Not merely a place of remembrance, they are also of great architectural interest and beauty. They are one of only four gardens in this country designed by the famous architect Sir Edwin Lutyens (1869-1944). The others being Heywood Gardens, Lambay Island and those in Howth Castle. The sunken rose gardens, herbaceous borders and extensive tree planting on view here make it well worth that extra bit of a walk. Open all year round. Tel: 01 475 7816

Glasnevin Cemetery Museum & Guided Tours Located 2.5km from Dublin city centre, Glasnevin Cemetery is one of Ireland’s most popular attractions - a breathtakingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery where over 1.6 million are buried. Guides are passionate about sharing their love of history and recount the stories of Ireland’s fascinating past through daily walking tours, resulting in history lessons made fun and memorable by professionals who know their stuff. Awarded TripAdvisor’s Travellers’ Choice Award 2018, Glasnevin is a cemetery of historic importance. Museum, genealogy, gift shop and café on site. Open daily for guided tours, re-enactments and the O’Connell tower. museum@glasnevintrust.ie (01) 882 6550 www.glasnevinmuseum.ie

Pat Liddy Walking Tours of Dublin

If you really want to get to know the city, then walking around with an entertaining and professional guide is the best way to discover its history and hidden treasures. Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade. The tours are described as entertaining and full of history. Even for someone who lives in Dublin, the tours surprises with loads of hidden facts. You can choose from a wide range of scheduled tours (all year round), including three brand new tours designed to get you off the beaten path. Docklands – The New Old Dublin, Hidden Gems of the Northside and The Tempting Whiskey Trail around the historic Liberties. Private tours can be arranged at any time geared to the topic of your choice. Tours are offered in main European languages. Find Out More Book at: www.walkingtours.ie Contact: Info@walkingtours.ie or 00353 10832 9406

The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world. Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3pm and 4pm. Opening hours: 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat 11am-5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm. Tel: 01 407 0750

The National Museum of Ireland

Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance. Tel: 01 453 5984

The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. With three locations in Dublin covering Archaeology, Natural History, Decorative Arts & History, and one location in Mayo covering Country Life, you can lose yourself for hours in the many exhibitions. Free admission Tel +353 (0) 1 677 7444 www.museum.ie

Baggot Street welcomes a beautiful modern Italian restaurant! Open for lunch from 12pm to 3pm, Dinner 5pm 'til late, Mon- Sat www.cirillos.ie

Phone | +353 1 676 6848 Location | No. 140, Baggot St., Dublin 2 18

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - SEPTEMBER 2019

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SEPTEMBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Corfu Greek Restaurant

Corfu Greek Restaurant is a hidden gem situated on Parliament Street. Here, the friendly and attentive staff will serve you some of the finest Greek food at incredibly reasonable prices. Choose from a range of starters, such as calamari and dolmadakia, and then tuck into some delicious traditional Greek main courses, including moussaka, kleftiko and stifado, all washed down with a nice glass of wine from their varied wine list. 12 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 0050

Le Bon Crubeen

Silken Thomas

Silken Thomas is a family operated business, established for over 40 years. Focussed on giving that warm Irish welcome, Silken Thomas has a proven record in quality and service. Silken Thomas is where you can eat, drink, dance and sleep. Silken Thomas brings to you the traditional Irish Pub Lils, the more sports-orientated Squires and the contemporary Flanagan’s Lounge. For whatever occasion you are celebrating or a place to simply relax for a drink, Silken Thomas is the choice for you. The Square Kildare Town Co. Kildare +353 (0) 45 522232 info@silkenthomas.com

Camden Kitchen This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin, with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It has won Best Value Restaurant Dublin in the Dubliner, Best Pre-Theatre listing in Hot Press and Best Casual Dining in the Restaurant Awards Value and Quality.

Peploe’s

Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park. 16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com

Cliff Townhouse

Fine dining in Dublin city centre with seafood focused menus, including the innovative Afternoon Sea. The Cliff Townhouse restaurant serves brilliantly executed Dublin classics, menus are equally suited to a threecourse celebration or a light bite in the middle of the day. Staples include generous salads, eggs Benedict, Galway oysters, Irish lobsters, dressed Yawl Bay crabs, wild sea trout and 10oz Hereford rib eye steaks. 22 St Stephen's Green, Dublin 2 +35316383939 info@clifftownhouse.ie

81-2 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 0126 www.leboncrubeen.ie

Mexico to Rome

Zaytoon

Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.

A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff.

14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 3595 www.zaytoon.ie

3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 476 0125 www.camdenkitchen.ie

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - SEPTEMBER 2019

Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value. 23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Kafka Restaurant

Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value. They serve lunch, brunch and dinner, offering a fresh healthy menu of delights including Spinach and Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Tiger Prawn Risotto and as they’re just a short walk from the City Centre, it’s the perfect place to start your night out. 236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6 01 497 7057 www.kafka.ie

ASADOR

Café Topolis

The Left Bank Bistro is 23 years in business, a true testament to its popularity. This modern restaurant is situated in the heart of Old Athlone, a stone's throw from the Athlone Lock on the River Shannon with views of the Norman Castle and its ancient architecture. The food is exciting and innovative. You can savour fresh fish and dishes such as beef carpaccio, chicken satay and an array of decadent, delicious desserts. Fry Place, High St, Athlone, Co. Westmeath Call (090) 649 4446 Email: info@leftbankbistro.com Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.

ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food. 1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4. Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie

La Ruelle Wine Bar

37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961

Cirillo’s

‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’. ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food.

The Left Bank Bistro

Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers. Perfect for the festive season or any events. 3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie

Salamanca

Cirillo’s have gone to great lengths to ensure that their customers enjoy an authentic Italian meal. All of their pizzas are made to the traditional Vera Pizza Napoletana standards, using San Marzano tomatoes, 00 flour and fresh mozzarella all finished in a wood fire oven that they imported from Naples. All of their pasta, bread, pizza dough and ice creams are made in-house every day and they offer a wide variety of Italian wines, craft beers and aperitifs that beautifully compliment their seriously tasty meals.

Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City.

140 Baggot Street, Dublin 2 +353 1 6766848 www.cirillos.ie

1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie SEPTEMBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Bars in Leinster

The Duke

Ideally situated close to Grafton Street, this old watering hole has been providing liquid refreshment and sustenance to the people of Dublin since 1822. They have a great selection of craft beers, whiskeys and gins for you to try, along with amazing food. The Duke is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of busy Grafton Street. 9 Duke St, Dublin 2 016799553

Sin Ă&#x2030;

Sin Ă&#x2030; on Ormond Quay is Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s original late night alternative music venue. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for, Sin Ă&#x2030; caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for a great atmosphere and some of the best musicians in Dublin then Sin Ă&#x2030; is

Ç§ definitely the place to be. Ä&#x2020;Ä&#x17E;ÇŚ Ä&#x17D;Ä&#x2019;Ä&#x160; Ä&#x160;Ä&#x161;Ä&#x201C; Ä&#x2039;Ä&#x2014;Ä&#x201D;Ä&#x2019; Í&#x2022;Í&#x2013; Ä&#x201C;Ä&#x201D;Ä&#x201D;Ä&#x201C;

Dingle Whiskey Bar

The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. And every strolling14 into-15 theOrmond celt is likeQuay taking a trip to the west, play boys and Tuesday they host a Whiskey Tasting Class from chailĂnĂ payfor attention and& dance along the way to the early light Tel: 01 555 4036 01 555 4037 7pm with whiskey guru FionnĂĄn Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Connor. www.sin-e.ie Learn everything you ever wanted to know about Í&#x153;Í&#x2022;ÇŚÍ&#x153;Í&#x2013; Â&#x2013;Â&#x192;Â&#x17D;Â&#x201E;Â&#x2018;Â&#x2013; Â&#x2022;Â&#x2013;Â&#x201D;Â&#x2021;Â&#x2021;Â&#x2013;ÇĄ Â&#x2020;Â&#x2014;Â&#x201E;Â&#x17D;Â&#x2039;Â? Â&#x2026;Â&#x2039;Â&#x2013;Â&#x203A; Â&#x2026;Â&#x2021;Â?Â&#x2013;Â&#x201D;Â&#x2021; the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey. Â&#x2122;Â&#x2122;Â&#x2122;Ç¤Â&#x2013;Â&#x160;Â&#x2021;Â&#x2026;Â&#x2021;Â&#x17D;Â&#x2013;Ç¤Â&#x2039;Â&#x2021; Â&#x2013;Â&#x2021;Â&#x17D;ÇŁ Í&#x201D;Í&#x2022; Í&#x153;Í&#x203A;Í&#x153; Í&#x153;Í&#x161;Í&#x2122;Í&#x2122; Tickets available at the bar for â&#x201A;Ź18.

the celt

Groganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

44 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 677 4810 www.theporterhouse.ie

This is the regular hang-out for Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming. 15 S William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 9320

The Confession Box JT Pimâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

The Celt

Located in the heart of the Dame District, JT Pimâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is styled as a local bar in the city centre. They offer quality drinks in comfortable surrounds. From local craft beers such as the 5 Lamps and Galway Hooker ranges, to fine wines and signature cocktails such as their twist on the classic Old Fashioned, they have all tastes covered. Their bartenders are happy to take requests and guide you through the list. Relax in their bespoke armchairs or leather couches, or when the sun is shining, soak up the atmosphere in Dame Court.

Situated on Talbot Street in the heart of Dublin, The Celt Bar is always thronged with locals and visitors thanks to the authentic Irish experience that is on offer there. Visitors can sample the finest Irish whiskeys, beers, ales and stouts and enjoy live traditional music seven nights a week. The Celt also offer traditional Irish food seven days a week. The classic bar menu includes beer battered haddock and traditional beef and Guinness stew. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no better place to go to for the full Irish experience than The Celt Bar.

4 South Great Georgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Street, Dublin 2Â Â (01) 672 4645

81 Talbot St, Dublin Tel: 01 878 8655 www.thecelt.ie

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One of the smallest bars in Dublin, The Confession Box is situated in the heart of Dublin City near the Spire. During the War of Independence rebel volunteers sought refuge here and received the sacraments from local sympathetic clergy. Recently, this iconic part of Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history was renovated. Now run by the capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s friendliest bar staff, the spot offers great live music from Thursday to Sunday, as well as coverage of major TV sports events. Catering to all tastes, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no surprise The Confession Box has picked up much deserved awards. 88 Marlborough St, Dublin 1. 01 828 0028

IRELAND’S BIGGEST HISTORY FESTIVAL RETURNS

– AND IT’S ALL FREE!

The 2019 Dublin Festival of History will take place from October 1 - 20, with its “Big Weekend” happening in Printworks, Dublin Castle from the 18 – 20. The event’s dates have been extended in order to make extra room for its packed schedule. There are over 150 free talks, walks, seminars, exhibitions and film screenings focusing on a range of history topics. These include the Decade of Commemoration’s anniversaries like the meeting of the First Dail, the outbreak of the War of Independence and the Versailles Treaty. Other anniversaries remembered in the programme include the moon landings of 1969, the outbreak of the Troubles, the Amritsar massacre in India, and the disestablishment of the Church of Ireland. One major highlight of the festival will be English writer and popular historian Tom Holland. Returning to the event for the third time, he will be discussing his latest book Dominion: How Christianity Shaped the Western World on Saturday, October 19 in Dublin Castle. Christianity is the most enduring legacy of the ancient world, and its emergence the single most transformative development in Western history. Even the increasing number in the West today who have abandoned the faith of their forebears, and dismiss all religion as pointless superstition, remain recognisably its

heirs. Dominion places the story of how we came to be what we are and how we think the way that we do in the broadest historical context. Acclaimed writer Jung Chang will also return to the festival to talk about her latest work: Big Sister, Little Sister, Red Sister on Sunday, October 20 in Dublin Castle. The book tells the true story of three sisters from Shanghai, who for most of the twentieth century were at the

centre of power in China and left an indelible mark on history. Other authors in attendance at the festival include Joe Duffy and Freya McClements. The pair will be discussing on October 20 in Dublin Castle their upcoming book Children of the Troubles. Nine-year-old Patrick Rooney loved horror movies and Halloween and wanted to be a priest when he grew up. Instead, on August 15, 1969, he became the first child killed as a result of the Troubles - one of approximately 190 children who would die in the conflict in Northern Ireland. Children of the Troubles tells the previously untold story of these lost children and the lives that might have been. On top of the events highlighted above, there will be seminars on fashion history, the flour and corn mills of Dublin, the Irish War of Independence, the weaving industry in the Liberties and Viking history. There will also be the festival’s popular Decade of Commemorations Quiz. The full programme is available at www.dublinfestivalofhistory.ie where you can also sign-up for the festival’s mailing list.You can follow the festival as well on Twitter and Facebook @HistFest

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The Wonderful Wicklow Film Festival intimate portrayal of two inner-city teenagers pursuing their dreams of NBA glory; and The Fall, a tale of five mythical heroes told by an injured stuntman to his fellow hospital patient. legendary sci-fi starring Harrison Ford. He plays a All screenings will take place at the Mermaid detective tasked with hunting down rogue replicant Arts Centre. Speaking about the festival, artistic androids (fronted by the late Rutger Hauer) in a director for the venue Niamh O’Donnell said in a dystopian future. statement: “With the glamour of the film industry Other cult classics being shown at the festival it’s easy to be distracted and forget the intense are Tim Burton’s Mars Attacks!, the acclaimed power of film. Film holds the possibility not just director’s star-studded tribute to 50s and 60s to transport us to other worlds but also to have an science-fiction films, as well as Cameron Crowe’s intensely transformative effect.” Almost Famous, a coming-of-age story about a “Almost all of us have seen a film that young American music journalist navigating the fundamentally changed and altered our outlook rock and roll scene of the 70s. and opinions. Films tell us a story, but it can be Rounding out the screenings are Persepolis, a those stories that shed light on issues, narrate French-Iranian adult animated film that follows a history, expose injustices and initiate social change.” young girl as she comes of age against the backdrop To purchase tickets for the screenings and for of the Iranian Revolution; Hoop Dreams, an more information, visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie/

The Wicklow Film Festival is back at the Mermaid Arts Centre for a weekend of screenings and discussions between September 19 - 21. Originally founded by Wicklow artist Brigid O’Brien, this year’s festival is a collaboration between the Mermaid Arts Centre and Noel Mac Aoidh, Head of the Film Department at BIFE (Bray Institute of Further Education). The theme for this year’s festival is Turning Points. Six filmmakers and experts of cinema – Mac Aoidh, Janna Kemperman (Fair City), Karla Healion (Lost in France) Kate McCoullough (The Farthest), Michael Donnelly (Dublin Oldschool) and Sal Stapleton (Through the Storm) will each present a movie that affected their lives and helped fashion their careers. Screenings will include Blade Runner: The Final Cut, the definitive edition of Ridley Scott’s

Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.

Cork at night

Lismore Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes. County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles

you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy. One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie

there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’ and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.

County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and

Reginald’s Tower

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Explore Munster

The Hunt Museum Cliffs of Moher Loop Head Lighthouse This popular tourist attraction is located at the mouth of the Shannon Estuary on the Loop Head Peninsula, which is one of two “Signature Discovery Points” in County Clare along the route of the Wild Atlantic Way. It also is a landmark location on the Loop Head Heritage Trail and is one of 12 Great Lighthouses of Ireland. The lighthouse is steeped in history and rich in maritime heritage with its origins dating back to the 1670s. The existing tower style lighthouse was constructed in 1854 and was operated and maintained by a keeper who lived within the lighthouse compound. In January 1991, the lighthouse was converted to automatic operation, and today is monitored by the CIL.Open daily (10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.) until 5 November.

The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Bunratty Castle

Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com

Titanic Experience Cobh

The Burren

Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.

Blarney Castle

The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again. 26

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Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912. The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.

Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.

www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie

Tel: 021 438 5252

Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Munster Room Restaurant

The Lobster Bar and Restaurant

options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City. Open Monday - Saturday 5.30pm until late (Open Bank Holiday Sundays) 2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie

The Smuggler’s Inn The 2-AA Rosette Munster Room Restaurant is located on the idyllic private island of Waterford Castle Hotel and Golf Resort. The Island is just minutes by car from Waterford city centre and accessible by complimentary Resort ferry. The Castle culinary team work passionately to create dishes with sublime flavour using high quality produce sourced from local suppliers, the kitchen’s vegetable patch and by foraging for what grows naturally on the 310-acre Island. The menu changes seasonally so guests can always savour the freshest ingredients. The Munster Room Restaurant’s oak-panelled walls, Waterford Crystal chandeliers and ornate ceilings match the luxurious surroundings of the 16th Century Castle hotel. Home to a fine Irish whiskey collection, an impressive wine cellar and signature cocktails, the elegant Fitzgerald Room bar is perfect for an aperitif or post-dinner drink. During the day, the Castle serves Afternoon Tea in the bright conservatory overlooking the lawns, with homemade pastries and desserts prepared by dedicated pastry chefs. The restaurant and hotel have made the lists for both McKennas’ Guides 100 Best Places to Stay 2019 and 101 Great Irish Restaurants 2019. They have also won Luxury Hotel of the Year 2019 and Munster Fine Dining Hotel of the Year 2019. Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort The Island, Ballinakill, Co Waterford X91 Y722 info@waterfordcastleresort.com 00353 (0)51 878 203 www.waterfordcastleresort.com

The Strand Inn

Delicious food and friendly service are what makes The Lobster a must visit on the Ring of Kerry. Established over 60 years ago, it’s a family run business steeped in history. On the front of the restaurant is a giant lobster holding a pint of Guinness which can’t be missed. Inside a warm welcome, a relaxing atmosphere and award-winning food awaits. The restaurant prides itself on its seafood, with whole poached lobster, beetroot cured salmon, local mussels and seafood chowder some of their signature dishes. Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 947 4629 www.thelobsterwaterville.com

Out of the Blue

Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330, www.thesmugglersinn.ie

Momo They serve only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment. Dingle Harbour. Tel: 066 915 0811

La Boheme

Overlooking Hook Head, The Strand Inn is the perfect place to enjoy lingering breakfasts, relax over a long lunch or enjoy intimate, romantic suppers. Diners can look forward to the finest Irish beef, lobster and line caught seafood in a luxurious setting, characterised by beamed ceilings, original stone walls and planked floors. Dunmore East, Co.Waterford. Tel: 051 383 174 www.thestrandinn.com 28

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This ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. It’s not hard to see why as the Chef/Proprietor, Henry Hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. Panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience. For total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms.

La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu

Momo is a multi-award-winning restaurant in Waterford City, Ireland. They pride themselves on their fresh and healthy menu featuring ingredients from the local food producers of Waterford County. You will enjoy a wide range of international dishes including lots of vegetarian/vegan options as well as delicious meat and fish dishes. Momo featured in the McKennas’ Guides Top 100 Restaurants in Ireland 2018, 2017 and 2016, and won ‘Best Casual Dining’ in Munster at the Irish Restaurant Awards 2017. 47 Patrick Street, Waterford, Ireland. Call (051) 581 509 kamila@momorestaurant.ie

French Tuition, Cultural Events, Library & CafĂŠ

New courses for all ages & levels starting in September!

The French Language & Cultural Centre 1 Kildare Street, Dublin D02KW52 (01) 676 1732 / alliance-francaise.ie

Dublin

Free placement test every Monday, Tuesday & Wednesday 5pm-7pm

Recommended Bars in Munster

Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder, Irish Whiskey Experience

Dick Mack’s

Developed by whiskey lovers as a first class destination for whiskey enthusiasts and novices alike. Guests will be amazed by shelf upon shelf of Irish, Scottish & international whiskies and a wide variety of Irish craft gin & vodka, craft beer and cider, eclectic wine list, and creative cocktail menu. Fresh, locally sourced food served daily. Irish Whiskey Experience offers the chance to discover more about the history, production & renaissance of Irish whiskey, with 10 masterclasses to choose from, running every day. 93 New Street Killarney, Co. Kerry Tel: +353646635700 www.celticwhiskeybar.com www.irishwhiskeyexperience.net

The Roaring Donkey

Perched up on “Top of The Hill” the Roaring Donkey is Cobh’s oldest traditional pub. Still original and oozing charm and authenticity the pub has been operating since 1880. It is known locally as the rugby pub but they do their best to accommodate most sports. A traditional music session has been running for nearly 40 years and is on every Wednesday night. Great craic guaranteed or enjoy a quiet pint in one of the finest beer gardens in town. The Roaring Donkey Tiknock, Cobh, Co. Cork Phone: (021) 481 1739

The Friary

Located by the river on the corner of Cork’s historic Shandon Street and North Mall, The Friary is a unique combination of old, new and eccentric. It's a homely craft beer bar with delicious gins and tonics. Look out for its astonishing range of special events; music, art, quizzes, the famous Drunk Spelling Bee, weird films, Penguin parties (really) and more! 62 Shandon St, Cork Tel: 087 668 0941

The Bierhaus

There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers. Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648 Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub. Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry Tel: 066 915 1960

Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant

Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May. 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1)

The Original Durty Nelly’s

Durty Nelly’s can truly be described as one of Ireland’s landmark pubs. Nestling in the shadow of the magnificent Bunratty Castle, it is the first stopping off point for generations of visitors to Ireland arriving at nearby Shannon Airport. Apart from the warm Irish welcome that you’ll find at Nelly’s, you’ll also enjoy the finest, freshest local produce – whether you’re just dropping in for a snack or staying for a fine dining experience. The Original Durty Nelly's Bunratty West, Bunratty, Co. Clare +353 61 364 861 info@durtynellys.ie

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An Unmissable Experience! Cobh, The Queenstown Story An informative and emotive story of Irish emigration. Learn about Cobh’s connection with Titanic and the Lusitania. Cobh Heritage Centre, Cobh, Co. Cork, Ireland. Open 7 days 9.30 – 5.30 (Sundays 11am) Tel 353 (21) 4 813591 Find Cobh the Queenstown Story on Facebook 237664_Cobh Heritage_AC_SCIT.indd 1

Email: info@cobhheritage.com Web: www.cobhheritage.com 01/12/2015 14:08

The GUINNESS word and associated logos are trade marks © Guinness & Co. 2019

Cobh Heritage Centre

The Queenstown Story

he exhibition at Cobh Heritage Centre, known as The Queenstown Story, is inventively situated within Cobh’s restored Victorian railway station, a building with its own historic story. The Queenstown Story will engage the visitor in a journey through time, recalling Irish emigration with real stories about real people. From the indentured servants of Virginia and the West Indies plantations in the 17th century, the early settlers in upper Canada, the famine victims of the 1840s to the large-scale emigration of the 19th and 20th centuries. The visitor will also discover the hardships endured by the convicts who were transported to Australia. The present town of Cobh has its origins as a small village nestled in the hillside on the southern shores. The village was known as Cove, being situated in the cove, or harbour, of Cork. The town did not begin to grow until the early nineteenth century, but its strategic importance was realised in the late eighteenth century during the American War of Independence. Vital shiploads of troops and supplies were needed by the British forces fighting in America between 1775 and

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1781. The entry of France into the war in 1778 heightened the danger of these ships being attacked at sea. This large and safe harbour provided ideal conditions in which the ships could assemble and be protected. The wars against France from the 1790s to 1815 were to prove the catalyst which led to the future prosperity of the town as Cove and its harbour played an important role in this war at sea. Cove went on to become a major port with both naval and merchant shipping and was one of the major ports of emigration.

Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events. The exhibition is a self-guided tour with audio tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Dutch, Polish and Chinese. It is not just interesting and educational, but very emotive and thought-provoking. “Take a glimpse into our storied past and walk in the footsteps of our emigrant ancestors”.

BLUES ‘N’ ROOTS FESTIVAL

“

On the Saturday afternoon, there will be a family fun afternoon in the Promenade with Cobh based multiinstrumentalist and Voice of Ireland finalist Jamie Stanton

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - SEPTEMBER 2019

”

COBH’S BLUES

BLUES ‘N’ ROOTS FESTIVAL IS BACK

Every year in September, the beautiful tourist town of Cobh in Co Cork hosts a gathering of international, national and local blues musicians for the annual Cobh Blues ‘n’ Roots Festival. With concerts and performances both outdoor and indoor, including in many of the town’s pubs and hotels, the festival was founded by publican Paul O'Halloran in 2007. Since, it’s inception it’s grown in size, going from strength to strength. This year will be no different, with the 13th edition of the event returning over the weekend of September 20 – 22.

The festival was first founded with the goal to bring more business and life into the town at a traditionally quieter time of the year. Yet it’s grown so much in popularity that it is now one of Cobh’s musical highlights, bringing returning groups of visitors and performers each year to experience some top-quality music. Anyone with an interest in blues should not miss out on this great weekend. All are invited to attend the free concerts. Meanwhile, local hotels and B&Bs are delighted to put up festival goers for a night or the full weekend so they can enjoy the music without the hassle of getting home afterwards. Sponsored by Diageo with the support of Cobh Tourism - as well as local businesses - the event will provide over a hundred hours of free music. More than 20 acts will perform in 11 indoor and

outdoor venues around the seaside town. The festival begins on Friday with gigs taking place across Cobh. Over the course of the weekend the times of these vary from day and night in order to cater for attendees of all age groups. This year sees the return of the very popular midnight blues sessions on Friday and Saturday night in The Bellavista Hotel. On the Saturday afternoon, there will be a family fun afternoon in the Promenade with Cobh based multiinstrumentalist and Voice of Ireland finalist Jamie Stanton – along with other special guests -providing the music. Stanton’s rock and country style – inflected with choral tribal influences – led him to top the Irish iTunes Charts with his debut record Flying Colours.The waterfront location for his gig is the perfect scenic setting for festival goers to take in some open air electric

and acoustic blues. Other performers over the weekend include The All-Star Blues Band, Dr Dec & The Side Effects, Gerry Quigley & The Muddy Blues Trio, Paul Hannon & Freight Train, Sofisikates, Street Talk and Will Killeen. Meanwhile, the aforementioned local hero Stanton will be making more appearances across the three days too with his band Roadkill Revival. He and his group are sure to draw a large crowd as always. On top of all this, the Cobh Blues Club will be the backbone of the festival with several performances taking place there from festival regulars Karl & Sean Long. To see the full line-up, gig times and more information about this year’s Cobh Blues ‘n’ Roots Festival, visit the event’s website over at cobhbluesnrootsfest.ie. SEPTEMBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Cork

Folk Festival

to Celebrate 40 Years in Style

When the Cork Folk Festival launched in 1979, few believed it would span four decades. As such to celebrate the impressive milestone, the 2019 programme has assembled an all-star line-up.

hen the Cork Folk Festival launched in 1979, few believed it would span four decades. As such to celebrate the impressive milestone, the 2019 programme has assembled an all-star line-up. Taking place from October 3 – 6, the event’s programme will see over 200 acts take part in 40 events over 20 venues. The festival features some amazing Cork and Ireland based musicians, alongside a host of international folk stars. Headline acts include Andy Irvine of Sweeney’s Men and Planxty fame and winner of the 2018 Folk Awards, as well as Scotland’s Dougie McLean, writer of the popular folk song ‘Caledonia’. Joining them as headliners is legendary UK singer and guitarist Martin Carthy. Since he emerged as a young musician in the early days of the 60’s folk revival, he inspired many of his contemporaries including most notably

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Bob Dylan and Paul Simon. He will be joined in Cork by his daughter and acclaimed singer and fiddle player in her own right, Eliza Carthy. To celebrate the event’s 40th year an AllStar Folk Concert will be held at the Cork Opera House. The line-up includes many of the artists who featured at the festival over the years including Freddie White, Iarla O Lionaird & Steve Cooney, ZoDoMo (featuring Zoe Conway, Donal Lunny & Mairtín O’Connor), Nollaig Casey & Arty McGlynn and Jackie Daly. Other top acts performing this year include Brendan Mulvihill, Ger Wolfe, Granny’s Attic, Karan Casey with Niall Vallely, the Lee Valley String Band, Liz Doherty, Luke Daniels, Neil Toner, Niamh Dunne & Sean Óg Graham (Beoga), Pat Speight, Session Americana, Steve Turner, Tom Baxter, Two Time Polka, and Yvonne Casey & Dermot Byrne.

On top of all the artists mentioned above, many other big names in folk will take part in special concerts, sessions and events happening across the festival this year. Meanwhile, there will also be the Noel Brazil Songwriting Competition – where budding songsmiths can compete for €450 worth of prizes – as well as céilís, classes, CD launches, open-air events, children’s events and more. A season ticket for the festival costs €98. They can be purchased via www.proc. ie and on tickets.ie. Meanwhile for more information about the festival, visit www.corkfolkfestival.com.

Welcome to Connaught

Macnas Festival Parade This Fierce Beauty

The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Galway city

Connaught has some Carrick on Shannon of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park the present day without interruption. Croagh in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician must for all. Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, For those interested in a religious experience Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist custom of trekking up the mountain has been are reputed to have appeared. The apparition faithfully handed down from generation to was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the from six years to seventy-five and included picturesque town of Westport, and its conical men, women and children. The shrine has shape soars majestically above the surrounding become so popular in modern times that the countryside with magnificent views of Clew Ireland West International Airport was built Bay beneath. especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, Connaught. religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst The county also features the pilgrimage site an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered has it all. SEPTEMBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Explore Connaught

Westport House

Kylemore Abbey Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic Victorian walled garden, which won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food.

Glencar Waterfall Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. The most dramatic waterfall descends from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.

Arigna Mining Experience Discover what coal mining life was like for coal miners in the Arigna Valley in Roscommon from the 1700’s until its closure in 1990. Visit the exhibition area to discover the history of the mine and then take an underground tour of the mine, where the methods used to extract coal are demonstrated, with lighting and sound effects added for authenticity.

Mullaghmore

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www.WestportHouse.ie

Dún Aonghasa National Museum of Ireland - Country Life The National Museum of Ireland - Country Life in Turlough Park, Castlebar houses exhibits showing how rural people in Ireland lived from the time of the Great Famine right up until the 1950s. The museum features four levels of interactive displays and exhibitions that offer a fascinating insight into the lives of the rural Irish people in years gone by.

Connemara Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Surfers and windsurfers from all over the world have ridden waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable.

Westport House is one of the finest country houses in Ireland and since it opened to the public in the 1960s, over four million visitors have passed through its doors. There are over 30 rooms on show, where visitors can immerse themselves in over 500 years of history, going back to the time when the Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley ruled the estate. There is loads for the whole family to enjoy on the estate, including the Pirate Adventure Park, the Birds of Prey Centre and the Westport Train Tour.

Connemara is a world of unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the north through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean.

Located on Inismór in the Aran Islands, Dún Aonghasa is one of the best examples of a semi-circular stone fort in Europe. Located on the 300ft cliffside on the south of the island, it is one of Ireland’s most visited attractions and offers stunning views that stretch the length of the island.

Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside, offering spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding countryside. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year.

Traverse the iconic Carlingford Lough on Carlingford Lough Ferry, Ireland’s newest must-do visitor experience, and revel at the outstandingly beautiful landscape that surrounds you. Sailing between Greencastle Co. Down and Greenore Co. Louth on the North East coast of Ireland, Carlingford Lough Ferry links the ancient and mythical Cooley Peninsula at the beginning of Ireland’s Ancient East and the majestic and stunning Kingdom of Mourne, the gateway to Northern Ireland. The ferry is a 44-car capacity vessel which holds up to 265 passengers and operates every day of the year except Christmas Day. Situated within 1 hour’s drive from Belfast, and 1 hour from Dublin, Carlingford Lough Ferry is your passage to discovery and adventure in the Carlingford Lough Area.

The Scenic Lough Foyle Ferry connects the Causeway Coastal Route at Magilligan Point in Northern Ireland to the Wild Atlantic Way at Greencastle in County Donegal. Sailing everyday in June, July and August. www.loughfoyleferry.com facebook: @scenicloughfoyleferry

FOR LIVE SAILING STATUS & TICKET OPTIONS VISIT WWW.CARLINGFORDFERRY.COM

Recommended Bars in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)

Monroe's

Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.

This famous venue in the heart of Galway city is renowned as one of the best live music venues in the city. Across two stages, they host regular National & International acts. The friendly staff will assure you of a warm welcome and they serve great food in the Tavern along with free live music seven days a week.

17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820

The Front Door

Dominick Street, Galway 091 583397 www.monroes.ie

Bosh Bar and Restaurant

Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar. Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534

Matt Malloy’s One of Galway city’s most popular watering holes, The Front Door is a contemporary Irish bar with a late bar, live music and an extensive drinks menu. Located in Galway’s bustling Latin Quarter and spread across two floors The Front Door features five bars, including a stylish cocktail lounge and Sonny Molloy’s Whiskey Bar. The Front Door is the perfect spot to sample Galway’s nightlife. 8 Cross Street Upper, Galway, H91 YY06 Tel: (091) 563 757

This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within. Bridge St., Westport Tel: 098 26655

The Quays Bar Galway

Roísín Dubh

It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now! Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540

Located in the city centre in Galway’s vibrant ‘Latin Quarter’ The Quays Bar Galway is one of Galway’s most famous and historic drinking establishments. For close on 400 years The Quays has catered to both Galwegians and visitors to the city of Galway. The restaurant offers a carvery lunch and evening a la carte dinner. The Quays was awarded IMRO Connacht Live Music Venue of the year 2017. 11 Quay St, Galway Tel: (091) 568 347 SEPTEMBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Venice Italian Restaurant

This is somewhere special to spend the evening, with a relaxing atmosphere and fine dining at its best. Experience Venice’s fine Italian cuisine, with their distinctive taste and beautiful aromas you’ll be sure to have those tastebuds tickled. With stylish facilities, they offer an elegant dining experience that their attention to detail and exceptional service will ensure. Venice is the best Italian restaurant in Galway City Centre and boasts a wide range of tasty Italian dishes. 11 Lower Abbeygate St, Galway City Phone: 091 530-751. Email: restaurantvenice@yahoo.ie

Eala Bhán

Péarla na Mara offer Irish-inspired cuisine with a Mediterranean touch in their restaurant in Oranmore. Using only the finest ingredients, locally sourced in the West and delivered daily specialising in fish, seafood, meat and poultry dishes, along with mouth-watering vegetarian dishes. Pair your meal with wines chosen from the carefully selected wine list. You are welcome to bring your own bottle of wine for a nominal corkage fee of €5 for any amount of wine bottles. Unit 10, Howley Square, Dublin Road, Oranmore Tel: 091 483900 Email: info@pearlanamara.ie

Brasserie on the Corner

Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823

Brasserie on the Corner on Galway’s Eglinton Street specialises in delectable seafood and steak dishes. They serve lunch and dinner and both menus are created with local, seasonal produce at their heart. These delicious offerings are created using produce from local suppliers. You will also be treated to an extensive and delicious wine and cocktail menu. You will truly find pride and passion on the plate!

The Yew Tree Restaurant

Brasserie On The Corner, Eglinton Street, Galway, Ireland Tel: +353 91 530333

If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell.

Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food. Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255

An Port Mór Restaurant

Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West. 1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730

Ashford Castle

Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906. Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003

Upstairs @ West Restaurant

Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit. The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000 42

Péarla na Mara

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - SEPTEMBER 2019

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Dublin Theatre Festival and Lyric Theatre, Ireland and UK

The Playboy of the Western World by J.M. Synge â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 24 Sept â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 5 Oct Gaiety Theatre

Tickets on sale now dublintheatrefestival.ie

+353 1 677 8899

NEW ROSS PIANO FESTIVAL

FABULOUS FOURTEENTH YEAR

The New Ross Piano Festival returns to Co Wexford from September 25 – 29 and its programme is packed with pianists and other musicians from Ireland and around the world. Barry Douglas, one of Ireland’s finest musical ambassadors, makes his debut at the festival with his Camerata Orchestra. He has established a major international solo career, performing worldwide with the most prestigious orchestras and conductors. This is since winning the Gold Medal at the 1986 Tchaikovsky International Piano Competition in Moscow, where he became the first non-Russian pianist to do so since Van Cliburn in 1958. In addition to his solo career, he has formed Camerata Ireland from the finest Irish musicians. The orchestra brings together these players to celebrate the wealth of musical talent from within the Emerald Isle. Another special guest is charismatic Welsh pianist Gwilym Simcock. He has carved out a career as one of the most gifted pianists and imaginative composers on the European scene, moving effortlessly between jazz and classical music. Simcock has frequently appeared on British television and radio, having presented Saturday Classics on BBC Radio 3. His debut LP Perception was also nominated for Best Album at the BBC Jazz Awards. Festival favourites Phil Ware and his Trio

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will be returning this year. The UK-born Ware made the transition from blues to jazz in his early twenties. After moving to Ireland, he established himself as a major player on the scene and has been in demand from both Irish and international musicians. His career has taken him throughout Europe, America, Asia and the Middle East. Matan Porat will be performing twice at the festival. The innovative Israeli pianist and composer will play Brahms Ballades No 1 and 4 at Friday’s opening concert. Meanwhile, on Saturday his late-night solo

recital titled LUX will feature music spanning 12 centuries, following the course of a day from dawn to nightfall. Other international guest pianists include Maurizio Baglini, founder and artistic director of the Amiata Piano Festival in Italy; Sae Yoon Chon, the South Korean winner of the 2018 Dublin International Piano Competition; and Daria van den Bercken, the Dutch-Russian musician renowned for performing in extraordinary spaces (like hanging from a crane at a festival in Rio). It should be noted Bercken will be performing in New Ross in a more conventional setting, playing the Brandenburg Concerto No 5 alongside Camerata Ireland. Artistic director of The New Ross Piano Festival, Finghin Collins, will also be performing throughout the five-day event. Meanwhile, in addition to the guest pianists’ concerts, there will be other special music events taking place across the town. To see the full festival line-up and ﬁnd out more information, visit www.newrosspianofestival.com.

Gallery Zozimus

Acclaimed Artist Markto Revisit O’Neill Dublin

interpretation, as many subjects featuring in this exhibition are found “back to my” home in County Wexford. Animals, landscapes and still lifes depicted can be found in my local environs. Flowers and vegetables featured in the still lifes have been grown in my garden, sheep and cattle can be seen in neighbouring fields. Pathways and lanes travelled during my dog walks.”

10 years since Mark O’Neill’s last exhibitions in Dublin – a sell out series of shows in Adams Auction Saleroom on Stephen’s Green – the acclaimed painter returns with new exhibition ‘Back to Mine’, hosted by Gallery Zozimus. Born in Lancashire in 1963 to Irish parents, O’Neill obtained a first-class honours degree in Art from Kingston College in London. Taking a position as a graphic designer and illustrator, he built a reputation working with very highprofile corporate clients and well-known authors. He even produced posters for classic film Back to the Future. 1988 saw O’Neill move to Ireland where he concentrated more on painting. Quickly, he built up a following. His beautiful but recognisable rural scenes stirred a nostalgic warmth - showcasing dappled light on sheep and cattle in the fields, the comradery of farmers at the markets, as well as the subtlety of still life lemons and oranges.

Winning the Adams Artist of the Future award in the Royal Hibernian Academy in 1991 established O’Neill as one of the most sought-after artists in the country. This, in turn, led to exposure on the international stage. In 1998, half a dozen of Mark’s works were included in “Ireland: Crossing Borders”, an exhibition of Irish art at Gallery Revel in New York. All his paintings sold.

“On a more expansive interpretation, ‘Back to Mine’ refers to a return in style to a more painterly fashion that I used in my work several years ago. My artistic influences at the moment include William Nicholson, Edward Seago and John Singer Sargent amongst others. All of these artists painted with a wonderful bravado, some small amount of which, I dare to hope will creep into my work.”

According to O’Neill, the title of his upcoming exhibition ‘Back to Mine’ can be taken on two different levels: “[There’s] a literal

‘Back to Mine’ will open at the Gallery Zozimus at 56 Francis Street, Dublin 8 on October 3 from 6-8 pm. There it will be exhibited until October 31. SEPTEMBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Welcome to Ulster

The Giants Causway Photo: @storytravelers The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise. County Donegal is in the northwest of the

‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.

new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Mount Errigal

Belfast Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or 46

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County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the

Linsfort Church, Co. Donegal

Recommended Bars in Ulster The Crown Liquor Saloon

Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin. 51 Donegall St., Belfast Tel: 028 9023 3768

White’s Tavern

Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down. 2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3080

Kelly’s Cellars Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food. 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3187

This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city. 30-32 Bank St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 6058

The Duke Of York

The John Hewitt

One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further. 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 1062

Peadar O’Donnell’s

There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore. Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry. 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry Tel: 028 7126 7295 SEPTEMBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Explore Ulster

Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end.

The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there. In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value.

Dunluce Castle With a rich history, in a stunning, location, Dunluce Castle on the coast of Antrim is just waiting to be explored. Visitor information includes an audio visual tour of the castle, with a ‘treasure hunt’ encouraging younger visitors to explore. You can also download a Dunluce Castle app for iPhone and Android devices, available free of charge from the App Store and Google Play. 48

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The Old Bushmills Distillery Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens.

Ulster American Folk Park Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories. Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier.

Down County Museum Situated next to the Down Cathedral, the Down County Museum houses modern galleries telling the stories of the area and fantastic temporary exhibitions. Learn about the museum’s history as a gaol and see the Downpatrick High Cross before relaxing in their new Cathedral View Tea Room.

Belleek Pottery One of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages.

Glenveagh National Park The second largest national park in Ireland, Glenveagh is a remote and beautiful wilderness in the north-west of Donegal. Full of rugged mountains, pristine lakes and tumbling waterfalls. Visitors can also take a tour of Glenveagh Castle on the banks of Lough Veagh and take a walk through the beautiful walled gardens, which boast a multitude of exotic plant.

Florence Court Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours.

Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox

Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.

The Ginger Bistro

Coco

1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121

55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers. 1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811

The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger. 7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421

Deane’s Restaurant

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150

Shu

They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table. 253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655

Vanilla Restaurant

Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.

Telfords Restaurant

Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268

Lough Erne Resort

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000

Sun Kee Restaurant

One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. 42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics. 36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134

Sakura

In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant. 82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590

Speranza Restaurant

This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

Lusty Beg

This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300

16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213 SEPTEMBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Great Irish Writers SAMUEL BECKETT

amuel Beckett was one of the most influential figures in 20th-century literature. A prolific writer in both French and English, Beckett was a poet, playwright and novelist whose darkly comic and absurdist work has influenced many. He was born in 1906 in Foxrock, Dublin. He attended Earlsfort House School until the age of 14 when he moved to the Portora Royal School in Fermanagh, which is the same school that another great Irish writer, Oscar Wilde, attended. Beckett once said of his childhood: “I had little talent for happiness.” He suffered from severe bouts of depression and these episodes would later influence his writing. He studied English, Italian and French at Trinity College, graduating in 1927. A year later he moved to Paris, a city that he would spend most of the rest of his life in. He became a devoted student of James Joyce before leaving the French capital in 1931. For the next few years, he travelled through Britain, France and Germany, writing poems and short stories to support himself. It was during this time that he met many interesting people who would prove the inspiration for characters in his later work.

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - SEPTEMBER 2019

Beckett returned to Paris in 1937 and met piano student Suzanne Dechevaux-Dumesnil, who he would later marry. When World War II broke out, he chose to remain in the capital and joined the French Resistance. For his work with the Resistance, he was awarded the Croix de Guerre for bravery. After the war, he entered into the most prolific period of his career – writing plays like Endgame, Happy Days, Krapp’s Last Tape and Waiting for Godot and novels such as Molloy, Malone Dies and The Unnamable. This work brought Beckett great acclaim. His unique style didn’t focus so much on plot but more on the elements of the human condition. He explored these in dark, strange and humorous ways - an approach famously described by Martin Esslin as “Theatre of the Absurd”. From the 1950s onwards, he also wrote for radio, television and cinema and was eventually awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1969. As he was never fond of the spotlight, Beckett didn’t attend the ceremony and gave the prize money away. While this action may make Beckett seem somewhat of a recluse, he was actually quite generous with his time, often visiting other writers. One story, involving the most unlikely

person, highlights that generosity. In 1953, Beckett bought some land outside of Paris and asked the locals to help him build a cottage there. One of the locals who helped him was a man named Boris Roussimoff, whose son was having trouble getting to school because he was too big to fit on the school bus, standing at 6 ft 3 and weighing 240Ib at the age of twelve. As a thank you to Boris for helping build the cottage, Beckett drove the boy to school every day in his truck. That boy would eventually grow up to be renowned WWE wrestler and star of The Princess Bride - André The Giant. Beckett remained in France for the rest of his life and died on December 22, 1989, at the age of 83. He left behind a tremendous body of work that continues to be revered. This month, the Gate will run a play titled Beckett’s Room telling the story of the apartment in Paris where the writer lived with his partner. In keeping with the experimental works of the legend, the show features no performers, with audiences listening to disembodied voices through earphones. It will run from September 19 – 28.

BLARNEY CASTLE

GARDENS

Renowned for Bestowing the Gift of Eloquence Each visit to the gardens at Blarney Castle is always a unique experience. The grounds change remarkably with the seasons and new surprises await you around every corner. The 70 acres of gardens are a must see destination, and the estate boasts one of Ireland’s finest collections of trees and plants from all corners of the world. As Ireland’s first Wildlife Estate, it stands to reason that this haven so close to the city is a wonderful location to be close to nature. A stealthy visitor may spot an elusive kingfisher along the riverside walks or a red squirrel in the arboretum. It’s no surprise that Blarney’s gardens are the most visited in Ireland. There is something for everyone, from the amateur gardener to the seasoned plantsman or the family out to explore. Follow the map to find the historic and magical Rock Close with it’s Wishing Steps and Witch’s Kitchen; or the deadly Poison Garden, the Jurassic Fern Garden or the hidden Himalayan Valley.

Visiting gardens just got so much more exciting!

September 9am – 6.30pm (last admission 5.30pm) www.blarneycastle.ie | info@blarneycastle.ie (Only 5 miles from Cork)