Travel Ireland Volume 6 Issue 69 by Travel Ireland Magazine

Travelireland ireland Volume 6 Issue 69 January 2020

magazine

Stars to Meet

The Lieutenant Of Inishmore at the Gaiety

Bray One Act Drama Festival

– Bray to Host Some Terrific Theatre

Brilliant Bowie Festival Returns to the Capital

Shannonside Music Festival

to Showcase Super Sounds

‘A Holy Show’

to Tour Nationwide

Keith Barry’s

Insane New Show

Out to Lunch

Belfast’s Bespoke Boutique Winter Festival

Pat Liddy Takes a Stroll in St Stephen’s Green

CONTENTS

4 Welcome to Leinster 6 The Lieutenant of Inishmore 8 Dublin Bowie Festival 10 Theatre – Dublin 12 St Stephen’s Green by Pat Liddy 14 Bray One Act Drama Festival 16 Shopping 18 Explore Leinster 20 Leinster Restaurants 22 Leinster Bars 24 Welcome to Munster 26 Theatre – Rest of Ireland 27 Cobh Heritage Centre 28 Waterford Crystal 30 Explore Munster 32 Munster Bars 33 Munster Restaurants 34 Keith Barry – Insanity 36 Welcome to Connaught 37 Connaught Bars 38 Shannonside Winter Music Festival 40 Explore Connaught 41 Connaught Restaurants 42 A Holy Show 44 Welcome to Ulster 45 Ulster Bars 46 Ulster Restaurants 47 Explore Ulster 48 Out to Lunch Festival 50 Great Irish Writers

Ellen Media Communications Ltd Suite 4, Talbot Business Centre, 19 Talbot St , Dublin 1. Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag

Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome to our January issue! Whether this is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. In our latest issue, we shine a spotlight on some fantastic events happening across the country. These include magician and mentalist Keith Barry’s touring show Insanity, the Bray One Act Drama Festival, Dublin Bowie Festival, Belfast’s Out to Lunch Festival and the Shannonside Winter Music Festival in Co. Clare. We also give readers the low down on the best theatre to see across the country – including the Gaiety’s star-studded The Lieutenant of Inishmore and the touring play A Holy Show. Meanwhile, Pat Liddy writes about the history of St Stephen’s Green. Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heartfelt céad míle fáilte and hope you enjoy your stay. Taisteal sásta (Happy Travels).

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Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Stephen Porzio (stephen@ellenmediacom.ie) Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Contributors: Pat Liddy, Angeline Le Mercier, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’ , Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin, Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael McLaughlin, Roma Keeley. We wish to record our thanks to Michael Bates, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. We would also like to thank Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and 10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.

JANUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city. If you want to escape to the country without

GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country. County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible

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Phoenix Park, Dublin through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone. Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ

St Kevin’s Church, Glendalough

All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the

smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June. Laois is where you can try your hand at a

Round Tower, Glendalough range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum. Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor. Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!

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Matthew.weldons Courtville - Matthew Weldon Antique Gallery, Powerscourt Townhouse, 59 South William Street, Dublin 2 Website - www.matthewweldon.ie | Telephone 00353 (1) 6794042

Stars to Meet

The Lieutenant Of Inishmore at the Gaiety An ensemble cast including Alex Murphy (one half of The Young Oﬀenders), Aisling Kearns (Asking for It, Darklands), Cillian O’Gairbhi (Blood), Don Wycherley (Bachelors Walk, Sing Street) and Paul Mescal (lead of the upcoming TV series Normal People) will star in the Gaiety Theatre’s production of Martin McDonagh’s The Lieutenant of Inishmore.

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - JANUARY 2020

irected by frequent McDonagh collaborator Andrew Flynn, the play will run from January 27 until March 14. While the Gaiety have a long history of co-producing plays, this is the second adaptation of the playwright the theatre will produce on their own, following early 2019 smash hit The Cripple of Inishmaan. “The Cripple of Inishmaan did incredibly well,” said Caroline Downey, owner of the Gaiety, at the cast announcement on October 21 of last year. “It was a remarkable piece of theatre. It was beautifully directed

and acted. The staging alone got an applause on opening night. So, we thought to continue on in the Gaiety producing our own plays.” McDonagh began his career as a playwright with a series of plays set in and around Galway including The Beauty Queen of Leenane (1996), A Skull in Connemara (1997) and The Lonesome West (1997). Having earned acclaim for his Irish work, he transitioned into screenwriting and directing with short film Six Shooter (2004) which picked up an Academy Award. Since then, McDonagh directed movies In Bruges (2008) and Seven Psychopaths (2012). His latest Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri (2017) picked up many awards including Best Motion Picture – Drama and Best Screenplay at the Golden Globes. The writer still works in theatre. His most recent plays Hangmen (2015) and A Very Very Very Dark Matter (2018) premiered in London, while 2011’s A Behanding in Spokane opened on Broadway. Summing up the plot of the 90s set The Lieutenant of Inishmore, director Andrew Flynn said: “It’s a hilarious savagely funny play about Mad Padraic who has left

Inishmore to become one of the head men in the IRA. But he’s too mad for the IRA and the one thing in the world he loves most is his cat. When his cat gets ill, Padraic makes a return to Inishmore and, in typical Martin fashion, everything goes kind of wild.” Flynn told attendees at the cast announcement that McDonagh himself is involved in this production. “He was involved on the casting. Part of our journey was to try and bring a cast together that honoured the play and suited the ages of the characters. He’s excited about this because it’s the first hugely major Irish production that will play Dublin.” The play was not performed for many years in the capital due to its controversial topic and violence. Newcomer Paul Mescal will star as Mad Padraic. Director Andrew Flynn was effusive in his praise for his leading man, an actor who just recently finished filming with Oscar-nominated director Lenny Abrahamson. Mescal will star in the filmmaker’s TV adaptation of Sally Rooney’s acclaimed novel Normal People. “Martin wrote Mad Padraic as a 21-yearold man. Somewhere along the line, the role seemed to be played by people in their

thirties,” said Flynn. “When we started, we said: ‘Let’s go back to where Martin started.’ Luckily, this young man [Mescal] came into the room and blew us apart. He’s a fantastic actor. I can’t wait to work with him.” Joining Mescal is Aisling Kearns, another star on the rise. She will play Mairead, a feisty teenage girl in love with Padraic. Kearns appeared on the Gaiety stage in the leading role for Asking for It and in Virgin Media One’s TV series Darklands in 2019. On top of the actors mentioned above – Cillian Lenaghan, Desmond Eastwood and Padraig O’Grady will round out the cast. Flynn also revealed that on the play over 35 Irish theatre makers will be employed. Most of these have carried on from last year’s The Cripple of Inishmaan with the addition of ‘a special effects person and a prop maker’ due to the enhanced technical requirements of Inishmore. “We’re relishing the challenge,” Flynn said on the matter. Tickets cost from €18.50 and are on sale now. They can be bought in person at the Gaiety Theatre box oﬃce and at Ticketmaster outlets, over the phone by calling 08 18 719 388 and online by visiting Ticketmaster.ie.

JANUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Brilliant

Bowie

Festival

Returns to the Capital The annual Dublin Bowie Festival returns for its ﬁfth edition from January 8 – 12.

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - JANUARY 2020

ans of the legendary singer are in for a treat, with five days celebrating both the 50th anniversary of seminal record The Man Who Sold the World and the great Starman himself. Special guests at the upcoming festival include drummer Woody Woodmansey and producer Tony Visconti who both worked on Bowie’s 1970 masterpiece.. The two will be performing with their six-piece band Holy Holy at the Olympia on January 11 together with Heaven 17 main man Glenn Gregory on vocals. The group will cover the Man Who Sold the World and Ziggy Stardust records in their entirety as well as a selection of 70’s Bowie rock n roll classics. “The festival programme has worked out perfectly because we have Tony

Visconti and Woody Woodmansey who played on The Man Who Sold the World and of course produced it,” said John Brereton, founder and director of Dublin Bowie Festival, at the event’s launch in Whelan’s on October 11 of last year. “I know it’s one of Tony’s favourite albums in his Bowie canon. I think their Olympia gig is going to be amazing. They’ve got a brilliant band, featuring members [James Stevenson] who’ve played with Scott Walker and The Cult.” Visconti and Woodmansey will also take part in a Q&A event in the Royal College of Surgeons on January 12. Chaired by Tony Clayton Lea of the Irish Times, the pair will discuss the making of The Man Who Sold the World. The two lived with Bowie at his Edwardian mansion in Haddon Hall,

Beckenham while recording the record. Another highlight is The Birth of Bowie in The Sugar Club on January 10 which sees a Q&A with Phil Lancaster, Bowie’s drummer with his mid-60’s mod group The Lower Third and a live set from cover band The London Boys. The latter plays exclusively songs from the singer’s 60’s period. During the event, Lancaster’s recent book At the Birth of Bowie will be profiled by guest host Pat Carty of Hot Press. Meanwhile, Brereton encourages people to see other cover act Art Crime Inc, who will perform all of Bowie’s underrated classic 1. Outside from 1995 at The Workman’s Club on January 11: “They played at the Grand Social last year and everyone’s jaws were dropping. It was the highlight of the festival.” Other special events include the Glasshouse ensemble playing The Sugar Club on January 9. Renowned for their

classical interpretations of famous albums, they will be reimagining tracks from Bowie’s acclaimed Berlin Trilogy. Throughout the festival there will also be podcast recordings, various exhibitions and lectures, a Bowie themed silent disco in Whelan’s (January 8) and a great family event entitled Let All the Children Boogie. The latter will take place on Saturday, January 11 at The Church Bar on Mary Street from midday until 5pm with free entry for all. This landmark building (Arthur Guinness was baptised there) will host kids art workshops, face painting, a live performance from Bowie tribute act Heroes from Mars and, to cap it all, a choral performance by the No Commitment Choir at 5pm. Another family highlight will be the appearance of esteemed children’s author Maria Isabel Sanchez Vegara. She will be reading from her stunning Little

People Big Dreams series in Hodges Figgis at 11am on the same Saturday and at the family event above at 3pm. The festival will then culminate with a closing party in Whelan’s on January 12 featuring live performances from special guests. To see the full range of Dublin Bowie Festival events and for more information and ticket links visit www. dublinbowiefestival.ie/.

JANUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Theatre Bord Gáis Energy Theatre The Sound of Music

Based on Baroness Maria von Trapp’s 1949 autobiography, this lavish staging of The Sound of Music tells the true story of the world-famous singing family, from their romantic beginnings and search for happiness, to their thrilling escape to freedom as their beloved Austria becomes part of the Third Reich at the start of WWII. The unforgettable score features some of the most memorable songs ever performed on stage, including ‘Edelweiss’, ‘My Favorite Things’, ‘DoRe-Mi’ and of course, the title song ‘The Sound of Music’.

show delivers a peculiar take on modern life that only the unique imagination of Ireland’s best loved comedian could conjure up.

The Gate Theatre A Christmas Carol

Also at the Bord Gais this month: Mamma Mia! Dec 10 – Jan 5

Drama at Inish

Admin

Dates: Jan 30 – Feb 1 Tel: 01 679 3323 or visit www.olympia.ie

Dates: Jan 10 – Feb 1 Tel: 01 677 7999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie

The Abbey Theatre

Smock Alley Theatre

Charles Dickens’ classic novella about an elderly miser visited by the ghost of his former business partner and the spirits of Christmas Past, Present and Yet to Come is translated to the stage. This is in a new adaptation by acclaimed writer Jack Thorne (National Treasure, The Virtues).

Oisín left Dublin to pursue his dream of becoming socially mobile. Now, he is having an existential crisis in the canned goods aisle at Aldi, trying to remember his mindfulness techniques. Exploring the relationship between class, capitalism and health, organisers say Admin is about being poor, precarious and lonely, and adding items to your Watched List on eBay in the hopes of feeling better. Dates: Jan 7 - 11 Tel 01 677 0014 or visit www.smockalley.com

Dates: Nov 15 – Jan 18 Tel 01 874 4045 or visit www.gatetheatre.ie

Also at Smock Alley this month: In One Eye, Out the Other Jan 6 – 11; Sophie, Ben and Other Problems Jan 27 – Feb 1, Mad Forest Jan 30 – Feb 1

Also at the Gate this month: Medea Jan 30 – Feb 22

Dlr Mill Theatre Eclipsed

The Gaiety Theatre

The Lieutenant of Inishmore

A major new Abbey production of Lennox Robinson’s play, which first premiered at the theatre in 1933, the story follows the inhabitants of a small seaside town in Ireland. Inish has never been on the map but it has been making headlines lately, and for all the wrong reasons. Could the performances of the newly arrived De la Mare Repertory Theatre Company really be the cause of the town’s strange behaviour? Dates: Nov 21 – Jan 24 Tel: 01 887 2200 or visit www.abbeytheatre.ie Also at the Abbey this month: RTÉ Radio 1 - Nollaig na mBan Jan 5, The 24 Hour Plays: Dublin Jan 19

The Olympia Theatre Pat Shortt – Hey!

Following rave reviews and sold out performances up and down the country in 2019, Pat Shortt’s Hey! returns to the Olympia. The 10

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On a lonely road on the island of Inishmore, someone killed Mad Padraic’s cat. He’ll want to know who when he gets back from a stint of torture and chip-shop bombing in Northern Ireland. He loves his cat more than life itself, and someone is going to pay. Set in the 1990s, The Lieutenant of Inishmore is a clever satire on terrorism, the beautification of violence in contemporary culture and a hilarious farce in true Martin McDonagh (In Bruges; Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri) fashion. For more information, see page 6.

Eclipsed by Patricia Burke Brogan is set in a Magdalene laundry during the 1960’s, one inspired by the playwright’s own experience as a young novitiate. The show highlights the plight of four women who struggle to bear the austerity of their existence and desire to break the shackles of this landmark of societal repression. Described as poignant, funny, moving and sad, the play is said to starkly remind audiences of the brutal intolerance of ‘female deviance’ in our country’s not so distant past while also detailing a journey of friendship, love, hope and survival.

Dates: Jan 27 – Mar 14 Tel: 0818 719 388 or visit www.gaietytheatre.ie

Dates: Feb 4 - 8 Tel 01 296 9340 or visit www.milltheatre.ie

Also at the Gaiety this month: Aladdin Nov 24 – Jan 19

Also at the Mill Theatre this month: Robin Hood Dec 7 – Jan 5

St Stephen’s Green by Pat Liddy

One of the loveliest parks of Dublin is right in the heart of the city and is literally a place of serenity and refreshment from the surrounding busy shopping and business streets. Even in mid-winter St Stephen’s Green has a special charm and wonderment. The architecture of bare trees reveals perspectives that are not so easily perceived in the full flush of the summer.

his park is a direct link with our distant medieval past. In the 13th century, a religious community ran a nearby leper hospital dedicated to St Stephen and over time this institution gave its name to a marshy tract of land that stretched across the south-east outskirts of the old walled town. The City Council of the time designated this wild area as a common grazing ground for the citizens (only the English were citizens – the subjugated Irish could not access this privilege). By the 17th century, the expansion of the city began to sweep up towards St Stephen’s Green, so the Council decided to expel the grazing cows in favour of the cash cow. In 1663, tracts of this land were apportioned into ninety building

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lots and set around a grand square. The remaining grassed space in the middle, amounting to 11 hectares (27 acres), was set aside as a public amenity. The new park was then surrounded by a stone wall and formal paths were laid out around the boundary. Each tenant of the encircling development had to pay for the planting of six sycamore trees alongside the boundary wall to ensure a sense of privacy within the park. With the opening of the posh residential Grafton and Dawson Streets in the early 1700s, St Stephen’s Green became a very fashionable place of resort. The Beaux Walk, situated along the northern perimeter of the park, became a popular promenade to show off one’s latest fashions from London or Paris to the admiring or jealous glances

from other aristocratic gentlemen and ladies of high society. The western perimeter boasted the equally elegant French Walk and it led to Leeson’s Walk and Monk’s Walk. In 1758, a lofty statue to King George ll was erected in the centre of the arrangement (it was badly damaged by a bomb in 1937 and removed!). After the Act of Union with Great Britain came into effect in January 1801, the aristocracy and gentry gradually abandoned Dublin for London and the park went into decline. To arrest the decay the green was handed in 1814 to a body representing the local home owners. The stone wall was replaced by ornate railings and new internal landscaping was carried out but, much to the resentment of the general public, the park was solely restricted to the local resident key-holders. Sir Arthur Edward Guinness, a member of the famed Guinness brewing family, had lived in the family mansion overlooking the green. He determined to resolve this festering issue about accessibility

so when the park eventually ran into debt he persuaded parliament to pass an act allowing the purchase of the park by the state. He personally paid off all the park’s debts in addition to the radical new landscaping and layout that we see today. The main features of the redeveloped park include a 1.2-hectare (3-acre) lake served by a waterfall and stocked with ducks. This work was followed by ornate shelters, a stone bridge, fountains, formal flower beds and a Victorian-styled superintendent’s lodge. Without any formal ceremony the park reopened its gates to the general public in July 1880. The gratitude widely felt towards Guinness (by now known as Lord Ardilaun) was expressed in 1892 when a statue to him was unveiled on the western boundary opposite to the Royal College of Surgeons. From the time Lord Ardilaun first sat on his granite pedestal many more statues and memorials have been introduced into the

park and have made St Stephen’s Green a window onto Irish history particularly of the last two centuries. The Wolfe Tone statue, standing opposite to the Shelbourne Hotel, honours a doomed leader of the abortive 1798 Rebellion. Robert Emmet (situated close to Lord Ardilaun) was also executed for leading the failed revolution of 1803. The Great Famine of the 1840s is commemorated by a bronze group to the rear of Wolfe Tone and the fatal casualties of the Royal Dublin Fusiliers in the Boer War are remembered by the magnificent archway forming the entrance from the top of Grafton Street. Close by this archway is a memorial bronze to another revolutionary, O’Donovan Rossa, who died in 1915. He provided an inspiration to ignite the Easter Rising of 1916 in which St Stephen’s Green played a role during its short occupation by the rebels. Busts of writers like James Joyce and James Clarence Mangan line footpaths.

Women are not forgotten either. Feminists, trade unionists and suffragettes like Anna Haslam, Louie Bennett and Helen Chevenix have their places in the green as does Constance Gore Booth, otherwise more famously known as Countess Markievicz (after her ex-husband). Markiewicz was prominent in the struggle for Irish freedom in the early 20th century and was the first woman to be elected to the British parliament. There are many other statues and memorials, too many to mention in this short article. There are plenty of explanatory signs throughout the park. St Stephen’s Green is easily accessible by walking up to the top of Grafton Street or by taking the Luas Green Line tram. Maintained by the Office of Public Works to an extremely high standard, the park remains open during daylight hours so is obviously open for longer in the summer than in the winter.

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OneAct Bray

Drama Festival

Returns for More Terrific Theatre The Bray One Act Drama Festival is returning from Tuesday, January 28 to Saturday, Feb 1 for its 43rd year, bringing a wonderful mix of comedy and drama to the Mermaid Arts Centre stage in Co. Wicklow.

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - JANUARY 2020

he event was founded in 1977 by the late Fred Lee. This was initially to raise money to purchase show curtains and stage lighting so that performances could be put on in the Parochial Hall which belonged to Christ Church Bray. However, the first festival was such a success it was decided to run it on an annual basis. Drama groups from all over Leinster were invited to take part in the event and a professional adjudicator was brought in to judge the merits of the

plays, with awards being given for different aspects of the theatrical shows. Since then, the Bray One Act Drama Festival has gone from strength to strength. A dedicated committee has resulted in, not only the continuation of the event over 42 years, but its development into one of the top amateur one act festivals in all of Ireland. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also become an important part of many drama groupsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; annual programme of productions. Having spent 28 years in the Parochial

Photography: © Paul Tierney

Hall, the festival moved to the wonderful venue of the Mermaid Arts Centre in Bray where it still resides to this day. The event has staged nearly 600 plays and has raised close to €100,000 to mainly local charities. These include Bray Cancer Support, Bray Stroke Club, W.H. Five Loaves, Bray Lakers, Our Lady’s Hospital for Sick Children, The Irish Heart Foundation and many, many more Most importantly, with packed houses on each day of the five-night event, the Bray One Act Drama Festival has brightened many a cold and dark January evening for the hundreds of audience members that support it. Organisers say it is particularly gratifying to see a number of people who attend each night, giving their own view on who should be the winners of the different categories. These are then compared to the actual winners of the festival. In a statement, the organisers of the Bray One Act Drama Festival also said: “The festival takes place thanks to a wonderful community which gets behind it every year and the many volunteers who give up their time to ensure that each year is better than the previous one. As other festivals are struggling we can be so proud here in Bray to have our own one act drama festival which is thriving and in which drama groups from all over Leinster queue up to take part in every year.” As always, the committee of the Bray One Act Drama Festival has the future of amateur drama firmly to the fore, with the event boasting performances from both newcomers and seasoned actors. With that in mind the decision was taken three years ago to dedicate the opening night of the festival to youth groups only, from whom a winner is chosen on the night. As mentioned previously, the 43rd Bray One Act Drama Festival will run from Tuesday, January 28 to Saturday, February 1. Adult tickets cost €16, while students and senior citizens pay €13. Tickets are available now from the Mermaid Arts Centre’s website at mermaidartscentre.ie or their box office at 01 2724030. For more information about the Bray One Act Drama Festival, meanwhile, visit its website at www.brayoneact.squarespace.com/.

JANUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Shopping Powerscourt Centre

Located in Dublin’s Creative Quarter on the bustling South William Street is the Powerscourt Centre. Housed in a stunning Georgian townhouse, the Powerscourt Centre has over 40 shops and restaurants and offers shoppers a wonderful city centre shopping experience. The centre offers a range of fashion stores, such as All Saints, French Connection and Mary Grant and if antiques are your thing then the Powerscourt Centre is the place to go. There are a number of antique stores in the centre, including Courtville Antiques, Delphi Antiques, Lilly Fine Art, The Silver Shop and Monte Cristo. If you’re planning a wedding in the near future, the Centre also offers a number of superb wedding outlets www.powerscourtcentre.ie

Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre Located at the top of Grafton Street, in the heart of Dublin city centre, Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre hosts a wide variety of top retailers. Household names such as Dunnes Stores, Argos, Boots, Eason, United Colors of Benetton, Mothercare, Elverys, Golden Discs and TK Maxx can be found here. When you’re finished shopping, you can relax in one of the many lovely cafes, head for a pint in one of the many nearby pubs, or take a stroll across the road in St Stephen’s Green. www.stephensgreen.com

Jam Art Factory

Courtville: Antique & Vintage Jewellers

Courtville is a traditional Dublin shop with a friendly atmosphere, in business over 50 years and based in the Antique Gallery within the Historic Powerscourt Townhouse. Their collection of vintage, antique and estate jewellery are sure to capture your imagination. They are envisioning a more personal, accessible and enjoyable world to trade fine jewellery and engagement rings. Authenticity is guaranteed on every piece. Instagram: @matthew.weldons Antique Gallery - Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, 59 South William Street, Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (1) 6794042

Tights Department Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear. They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks.

Celtic Whiskey Shop

Ireland’s premier Irish whiskey specialists with a remarkable selection of beloved, rare and hard to find bottlings and shop exclusives. It boasts a knowledgeable and friendly staff who are proud and passionate about products, and are always on hand to offer advice. Feel free to pop in where we serve up in-store whiskey tastings all day everyday! If you're travelling, our staff can either wrap your purchases in protective wrapping or arrange shipping to national and international destinations. 27 – 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6759744 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com

Mourne Antiques

Unit 108, 1st Floor, Stephen's Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2, Ireland D02 VF67 Shop online: www.tightsdepartment.ie (deliver worldwide)

Designer Exchange

Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row. 64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 www.JamArtFactory.com and www.JamArtPrints.com 16

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Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vuitton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands. 53 Dawnson Street, Dublin 2. 35 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd

Mourne Antiques have been operating in the thriving town of Letterkenny for 25 years. They offer a range of beautiful antiques, such as ceramics, silver, furniture and collectables, all with their own particular history and charm. You could find anything from a rare book to a mink coat! They specialise in a wide range of jewellery. From Victorian gold and precious stone pieces to Contemporary diamond and Engagement rings to 1940’s costume jewellery, their stock is sure to please. 38 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny, Co. Donegal 074 9126457 www.mourneantiques.com

Recommended Shopping The Donegal Shop

The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products. The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists. Mention Travel Ireland to get a 10% discount 2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com

James Fox

Puro

Puro offers innovative collections of contemporary urban-wear and luxury sneakers from emerging talents as well as world renowned designers. Brands include Pal Zileri, Joop!, Baldessarini, Guess, Philippe Model, Gold Brothers, Android Homme, Mallet and many more. Puro is the only Irish stockist of many of these brands and while we feel a visit to this beautiful store is a must to truly appreciate the collections, you can also shop or browse first online at puromenswear.com 34 Wicklow Street, Dublin, Ireland info@puro.ie Call (01) 558 1406

The Kilkenny Shop

Amelia’s is home to a selection of beautiful gallery pieces that are perfect for the home or a present for someone special. They stock a range of art and studio ceramics lovingly handcrafted by makers from all over the country, specialising in local makers from the North-West of Ireland. There are little gifts and keepsakes for the everyday too! All pieces are handpicked by owner Frances Spears. She has over 20 years experience in the design and antiques business so you know you’re in good hands when you pay a visit to Amelia’s Irish Design. 29 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny Co. Donegal 087 2434060 www.amelias.ie

Mackintosh by Francis Campelli

Mackintoshes were first produced in Ireland in 1889 and Francis Campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the most experienced hands The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium when you visit this store. for Irish designed products; from fashion and They offer the finest quality, waterproof jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. For over five decades, the Kilkenny Shop has Mackintoshes for men and women from stock or made to measure been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen from €485, as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories. Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce. 6 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 6777066 www.kilkennyshop.com

Irish Linen House

For over 135 years, James Fox Cigar and Whiskey Store has been Dublin’s focal point for lovers of Irish whiskey and premium Cuban cigars. Here you will find Ireland’s largest selection of handmade Cuban cigars, including rare and vintage stock. James Fox also stock a large range of premium Irish whiskeys and spirits to satisfy the most discerning palates. Tax-Free shopping available in-store and online. 119 Grafton Street, Dublin 2, Ireland. Tel: (01) 677 0533 Email: info@jamesfox.ie Website: www.jamesfox.ie

Amelia’s Irish Design

Irish Linen House create handmade tablerunners, placemats and napkins made from the finest Irish linen. Each piece of the collection is uniquely made, fusing historical elements with a modern, contemporary edge and has caught the attention of worldwide stores including Barneys of New York. Just up the road from the Jameson Distillery, their Smithfield store is the perfect place to pick up a unique piece of Ireland. Nr. Jameson Distillery, Bow Street Smithfield Village, Dublin 7 www.irishlinenhouse.com 01-5329572 / 083-3010502 01 820 8774

46 South William Street, Dublin 2 01 6088608 www.franciscampelli.com

Article

This charming store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland. They stock homeware from around the world, including Irish designers - with everything from Irish woollen throws, glass vases and stationery on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice. Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2 01 679 9268 www.articledublin.com JANUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Explore Leinster

The Chester Beatty Library

EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum EPIC is an interactive journey about how a small island made a big impact on the world. It is located in the CHQ building at one of Dublin’s most historic locations by the banks of the River Liffey in the capital’s Docklands, the original departure point for so many of Ireland’s emigrants. See Ireland from the outside in through the stories of the men and women who left and the Irish culture they brought with them. To truly understand what it means to be Irish, you need to discover how Ireland has influenced the world. The touchscreen technology in the museum makes the EPIC experience an accessible, fun and educational way for visitors to learn about Irish history, culture and people. Described as one of Ireland’s national treasures, EPIC was named Europe’s Leading Tourist Attraction in the 2019 World Travel Awards. Open daily 10am to 6:45pm (last entry 5pm) Tel +353 (0)1 906 0861 Email: info@epicchq.com www.epicchq.com

Glasnevin Cemetery Museum & Guided Tours Located 2.5km from Dublin city centre, Glasnevin Cemetery is one of Ireland’s most popular attractions - a breathtakingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery where over 1.6 million are buried. Guides are passionate about sharing their love of history and recount the stories of Ireland’s fascinating past through daily walking tours, resulting in history lessons made fun and memorable by professionals who know their stuff. Awarded TripAdvisor’s Travellers’ Choice Award 2018, Glasnevin is a cemetery of historic importance. Museum, genealogy, gift shop and café on site. Open daily for guided tours, re-enactments and the O’Connell tower. museum@glasnevintrust.ie (01) 882 6550 www.glasnevinmuseum.ie

Pat Liddy Walking Tours of Dublin

If you really want to get to know the city, then walking around with an entertaining and professional guide is the best way to discover its history and hidden treasures. Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade. The tours are described as entertaining and full of history. Even for someone who lives in Dublin, the tours surprises with loads of hidden facts. You can choose from a wide range of scheduled tours (all year round), including three brand new tours designed to get you off the beaten path. Docklands – The New Old Dublin, Hidden Gems of the Northside and The Tempting Whiskey Trail around the historic Liberties. Private tours can be arranged at any time geared to the topic of your choice. Tours are offered in main European languages. Find Out More Book at: www.walkingtours.ie Contact: Info@walkingtours.ie or 00353 10832 9406

Kilmainham Gaol (Jail)

The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world. Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3pm and 4pm. Opening hours: 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat 11am-5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm. Tel: 01 407 0750

The National Museum of Ireland

Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance. Tel: 01 453 5984

The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. With three locations in Dublin covering Archaeology, Natural History, Decorative Arts & History, and one location in Mayo covering Country Life, you can lose yourself for hours in the many exhibitions. Free admission Tel +353 (0) 1 677 7444 www.museum.ie

Baggot Street welcomes a beautiful modern Italian restaurant! Open for lunch from 12pm to 3pm, Dinner 5pm 'til late, Mon- Sat www.cirillos.ie

Phone | +353 1 676 6848 Location | No. 140, Baggot St., Dublin 2 18

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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Camden Kitchen

A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff. 3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 476 0125 www.camdenkitchen.ie

Le Bon Crubeen

Silken Thomas

Silken Thomas is a family operated business, established for over 40 years. Focussed on giving that warm Irish welcome, Silken Thomas has a proven record in quality and service. Silken Thomas is where you can eat, drink, dance and sleep. Silken Thomas brings to you the traditional Irish Pub Lils, the more sports-orientated Squires and the contemporary Flanagan’s Lounge. For whatever occasion you are celebrating or a place to simply relax for a drink, Silken Thomas is the choice for you. The Square Kildare Town Co. Kildare +353 (0) 45 522232 info@silkenthomas.com

PRADO This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin, with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It has won Best Value Restaurant Dublin in the Dubliner, Best Pre-Theatre listing in Hot Press and Best Casual Dining in the Restaurant Awards Value and Quality. 81-2 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 0126 www.leboncrubeen.ie

Zaytoon

Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street. 14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 3595 www.zaytoon.ie 20

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Peploe’s

Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park. 16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com

Cliff Townhouse

Fine dining in Dublin city centre with seafood focused menus, including the innovative Afternoon Sea. The Cliff Townhouse restaurant serves brilliantly executed Dublin classics, menus are equally suited to a threecourse celebration or a light bite in the middle of the day. Staples include generous salads, eggs Benedict, Galway oysters, Irish lobsters, dressed Yawl Bay crabs, wild sea trout and 10oz Hereford rib eye steaks. 22 St Stephen's Green, Dublin 2 +35316383939 info@clifftownhouse.ie

Located by the gorgeous coastal area of Clontarf, Prado offers locally sourced food, cooked in a Mediterranean style over an open fire of Irish hardwoods. With its smart yet relaxed dining spaces, the restaurant is perfect for everything from a casual lunch or brunch to a night out with friends. A warm welcome is guaranteed in this beautiful restaurant by the sea. Opening Times: Mon: CLOSED Tues - Fri: Lunch12:00 - 15:00 Dinner17:00 - Close Sat: Brunch 10:00 - 15:00 Dinner17:00 - Close Sun: Brunch10:00 - 12:45 All Day Menu Address: 9 Vernon Ave Clontarf Dublin 3 Tel: 01 6932299 Email: bookings@prado.ie Web: www.prado.ie

Mexico to Rome

Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value. 23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Kafka Restaurant

Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value. They serve lunch, brunch and dinner, offering a fresh healthy menu of delights including Spinach and Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Tiger Prawn Risotto and as they’re just a short walk from the City Centre, it’s the perfect place to start your night out. 236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6 01 497 7057 www.kafka.ie

ASADOR

Café Topolis

The Left Bank Bistro is 23 years in business, a true testament to its popularity. This modern restaurant is situated in the heart of Old Athlone, a stone's throw from the Athlone Lock on the River Shannon with views of the Norman Castle and its ancient architecture. The food is exciting and innovative. You can savour fresh fish and dishes such as beef carpaccio, chicken satay and an array of decadent, delicious desserts. Fry Place, High St, Athlone, Co. Westmeath Call (090) 649 4446 Email: info@leftbankbistro.com Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.

ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food. 1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4. Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie

La Ruelle Wine Bar

37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961

Cirillo’s

‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’. ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food.

The Left Bank Bistro

Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers. Perfect for the festive season or any events. 3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie

Salamanca

Cirillo’s have gone to great lengths to ensure that their customers enjoy an authentic Italian meal. All of their pizzas are made to the traditional Vera Pizza Napoletana standards, using San Marzano tomatoes, 00 flour and fresh mozzarella all finished in a wood fire oven that they imported from Naples. All of their pasta, bread, pizza dough and ice creams are made in-house every day and they offer a wide variety of Italian wines, craft beers and aperitifs that beautifully compliment their seriously tasty meals.

Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City.

140 Baggot Street, Dublin 2 +353 1 6766848 www.cirillos.ie

1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie JANUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Bars in Leinster

The Duke

Sin É

Sin É on Ormond Quay is Dublin’s original late night alternative music venue. Whether it’s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic night’s that you’re looking for, Sin É caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If you’re looking for a great atmosphere and some of the best musicians in Dublin then Sin É is definitely the place to be. 14 -15 Ormond Quay Tel: 01 555 4036 & 01 555 4037 www.sin-e.ie

Grogan’s

Dingle Whiskey Bar

The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. And every Tuesday they host a Whiskey Tasting Class from 7pm with whiskey guru Fionnán O’Connor. Learn everything you ever wanted to know about the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey. Tickets available at the bar for €18.

Photo Ros Kavanagh

Ideally situated close to Grafton Street, this old watering hole has been providing liquid refreshment and sustenance to the people of Dublin since 1822. They have a great selection of craft beers, whiskeys and gins for you to try, along with amazing food. The Duke is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of busy Grafton Street. 9 Duke St, Dublin 2 016799553

44 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 677 4810 www.theporterhouse.ie

This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming. 15 S William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 9320

J.P. Mooney’s JT Pim’s

Located in the heart of the Dame District, JT Pim’s is styled as a local bar in the city centre. They offer quality drinks in comfortable surrounds. From local craft beers such as the 5 Lamps and Galway Hooker ranges, to fine wines and signature cocktails such as their twist on the classic Old Fashioned, they have all tastes covered. Their bartenders are happy to take requests and guide you through the list. Relax in their bespoke armchairs or leather couches, or when the sun is shining, soak up the atmosphere in Dame Court. 4 South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2 (01) 672 4645 22

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On the historical corner of Nassau and Kildare Street, directly opposite Trinity College, you will find J.P. Mooney’s, a traditional Irish pub with a modern twist. Boasting a vast selection of whiskeys and gins, a wide range of Irish and international craft beer and one of the creamiest pints of Guinness around - you will surely find something to tickle your fancy. Big screens to watch the sport, live traditional music several nights a week, and a cosy snug in which to relax and enjoy the atmosphere. Traditional Irish food served all day long. 2 Nassau Street Dublin 2 (01) 551 3725

The Confession Box

One of the smallest bars in Dublin, The Confession Box is situated in the heart of Dublin City near the Spire. During the War of Independence rebel volunteers sought refuge here and received the sacraments from local sympathetic clergy. Recently, this iconic part of Dublin’s history was renovated. Now run by the capital’s friendliest bar staff, the spot offers great live music from Thursday to Sunday, as well as coverage of major TV sports events. Catering to all tastes, it’s no surprise The Confession Box has picked up much deserved awards. 88 Marlborough St, Dublin 1. 01 828 0028

Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.

Cork at night

Lismore Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes. County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles Reginald’s Tower

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - JANUARY 2020

you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy. One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and

there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’ and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.

Theatre Cork Arts Theatre

A Strange Bit of History – Omid Djalili

Grand Opera House, Belfast Beauty and the Beast

Dreaming of a happier life, the beautiful Belle finds herself transported to a cursed castle and held captive by a hideous beast. To her surprise, the castle is full of magical characters placed under a spell by an evil enchantress. Can Belle see beyond the monster and fall in love with her captor before the last petal falls from the enchanted rose? Or will the Beast’s selfishness cost him the world he once knew and the hand of the girl who has melted his heart? It wouldn’t be Christmas without a panto, so be sure to catch Northern Ireland’s biggest this festive season. Dates: Nov 30 – Jan 12 Tel: 028 9024 1919 or visit www.goh.co.uk

Lime Tree Theatre, Limerick Set against the backdrop of tumultuous expectation for a Promised One in Persia 1844, this enthralling and hilarious one-man play from actor and stand-up comedian Omid Djalili features mystical experiences, astonishing claims, adventures and tragedies. First performed at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival in 1993, where it won the Spirit of the Fringe Award, the show has been performed 109 times in 10 different countries. Dates: Jan 31 – Feb 1 Tel: 021 450 5624 or visit www.corkartstheatre.com Also at Cork Arts Theatre this month: Heal Your Hole Jan 3

The Everyman

Bosco’s Magical Garden and Sleeping Beauty Bosco is Bosco, not a boy, not a girl, just a Bosco: a cheeky, lovely, funny, slightly-cracked, irrepressible, eternal five-year-old who lives in a box and loves nothing more than to just be Bosco and meet all the boys and girls. A completely interactive live experience by Puppet Theatre, enjoy the enchanted story of Sleeping Beauty where an evil fairy-knight filled with jealousy tries to harm Beauty but luckily she has very good fairy friends. After starring on Irish TV for three decades, you’ll see why Bosco remains a firm favourite for each new generation. Dates: Jan 26 Tel: 021 450 1673 or visit www.everymancork.com Also at the Everyman this month: Jack and the Beanstalk Nov 30 – Jan 12, Blackwater Babble Jan 20 - 23 26

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A Holy Show

A Holy Show is a nostalgic comedy based on the 1981 hijacking of an Aer Lingus plane. This was by an ex-Trappist monk with a bottle of water as his weapon, the Pope as his nemesis, and a burning desire to know The Third Secret of Fatima. Touring across Ireland January, February and March, this month the play will also be performed at the Project Arts Centre in Dublin ( Jan 23 – 25) and the Town Hall Theatre in Galway ( Jan 29). For more information, see page 42. Dates: Jan 31 – Feb 1 Tel: 061 953 400 or visit www.limetreetheatre.ie Also at Lime Tree this month: Beauty and the Beast Panto Dec 27 – Jan 5, Heal Your Hole Jan 17, The Miller’s Story Jan 24.

Mermaid Arts Centre, Wicklow Restoration

In the wake of a violent outburst by a young person, the staff at a youth service in Dublin are attempting to move on. But healing is hard when you’re on the floor and out the door. Healing is hard when your wounds are still raw. Made in consultation with youth workers from the north inner-city, Restoration is a new play

from the award-winning Shaun Dunne (Rapids, Making a Mark), directed by Darren Thornton (A Date for Mad Mary), exploring the politics of restorative practice and garda youth diversion in Ireland. Dates: Jan 25 Tel: 01 272 4030 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie Also at the Mermaid Arts Centre this month: Bosco’s Magical Garden and Sleeping Beauty Jan 3, Street Art Operas “He Did What?” and “Two Angels Play I Spy” Double Bill Jan 25, Bray One Act Drama Festival Jan 28 – Feb 1 (more info on page 14)

Town Hall Theatre, Galway The Matchmaker

Based on legendary Irish writer John B. Keane’s novella Letters of a Country Matchmaker, The Matchmaker follows the efforts of Dicky Mick Dicky O’Connor to make matches for the lonely and lovelorn. Keane (who died in 2002) was acclaimed for his well-observed depictions of Irish life. The Matchmaker serves as an exploration of rural loneliness, focusing on the generations of people who only began to look for companionship and love late in life, once their duties as minder of aging parents were concluded. Comedian Jon Kenny (d’Unbelievables, Father Ted) stars in the production, alongside actress Mary McEvoy (Glenroe). Dates: Jan 31 Tel: 091 569 777 or visit www.tht.ie Also at the Town Hall this month: Aladdin Dec 29 – Jan 12, Keith Barry - Insanity Jan 3 – 4 (more info on page 34), A Holy Show Jan 29

Watergate Theatre, Kilkenny Three Hail Mary’s

A rip-roaring comedy taking Ireland by storm, 3 Hail Mary’s centres on three characters named Mary who have lived in a nursing home together for over 10 years and have become great friends. However, due to circumstances beyond their control, they are being moved to three separate nursing homes. The play is set around their last few hours together which they decide to celebrate in style. Dates: Jan 23 - 24 Tel: 056 7761674 or visit www.watergatetheatre.ie Also at the Watergate this month: Beauty and the Beast Jan 1 – 12, Blackwater Babble Jan 31

Cobh Heritage Centre

The Queenstown Story

he exhibition at Cobh Heritage Centre, known as The Queenstown Story, is inventively situated within Cobh’s restored Victorian railway station, a building with its own historic story. The Queenstown Story will engage the visitor in a journey through time, recalling Irish emigration with real stories about real people. From the indentured servants of Virginia and the West Indies plantations in the 17th century, the early settlers in upper Canada, the famine victims of the 1840s to the large-scale emigration of the 19th and 20th centuries. The visitor will also discover the hardships endured by the convicts who were transported to Australia. The present town of Cobh has its origins as a small village nestled in the hillside on the southern shores. The village was known as Cove, being situated in the cove, or harbour, of Cork. The town did not begin to grow until the early nineteenth century, but its strategic importance was realised in the late eighteenth century during the American War of Independence. Vital shiploads of troops and supplies were needed by the British forces fighting in America between 1775 and

1781. The entry of France into the war in 1778 heightened the danger of these ships being attacked at sea. This large and safe harbour provided ideal conditions in which the ships could assemble and be protected. The wars against France from the 1790s to 1815 were to prove the catalyst which led to the future prosperity of the town as Cove and its harbour played an important role in this war at sea. Cove went on to become a major port with both naval and merchant shipping and was one of the major ports of emigration.

Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events. The exhibition is a self-guided tour with audio tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Dutch, Polish and Chinese. It is not just interesting and educational, but very emotive and thought-provoking. “Take a glimpse into our storied past and walk in the footsteps of our emigrant ancestors”. JANUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Waterford Crystal

ince the reopening of Waterford Crystal in 2009 and the subsequent purchase by Fiskars, Waterford Crystal has re-established near its roots, on The Mall in Waterford City. Waterford Crystal is now thriving again and it’s a good news story for Ireland and, indeed, for the sporting world in general, given its connection with so many iconic tournaments. “A company that’s been around since 1783 is going to have difficult times and when we reorganised after 2009 and set up in the city, it was a proud day for all connected with Waterford Crystal. Those involved are so proud of the brand which is a product of the work of so many generations of local people over so many years. We have a manufacturing plant and brand experience in Waterford, where we produce a lot of crystal and give visitors an opportunity to visit the factory and see how we make our beautiful products,” explains David McCoy, Sales & Marketing Director of House of Waterford Crystal. “A lot of work goes into producing a one-off piece including the design and manufacturing. This is something that we have expertise in and it’s the reason why people come to us to design and produce their trophies, unique pieces and awards. We have a 12,000 sq. ft. showroom which represents everything we make in crystal, including a whole section on golf and sport, which is a major part of our business. The list of famous trophies produced by Waterford Crystal for the sports industry alone is simply staggering. Waterford Crystal also designs the pieces for the prestigious Peoples’ Choice Awards as well as the spectacular Times Square Ball – a crystal ball which forms a prominent part of a New Year’s Eve celebration in Times Square in New York, colloquially known as the ball drop. There is huge pride in Waterford Crystal throughout Ireland and it is little wonder that it is one of the most popular items used to mark special occasions. Even though our audience is beyond Ireland,

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namely in the US, Australia and the UK, everyone at home wants to be part of something that is part of the fabric of Ireland and our heritage. A lot of thought goes into our products, which are inspired by Irish heritage, by our landscape, our music and the arts. It is not just about the amazing shapes or the designs of the products but the stories behind those designs. “In many cases these designs reﬂect Irish culture in terms of castles, music and art. If you wish to recognise a special achievement or give a special gift for a celebration, Waterford Crystal is one of the first places people look. In the same way, Waterford Crystal is present in so many homes around the world – some very famous homes – it could be a fine wine glass, tumbler, a giftware piece or a chandelier.” The factory in Waterford City is home to a brand new continuous melt tank furnace that has been tailor-made for Waterford Crystal’s specifications and melts two tonnes of molten crystal every day. It uses leading edge technology to deliver molten crystal of the highest quality for their skilled master blowers to hand-shape and mouth-blow Waterford Crystal’s range of premium products. Thousands of visitors travel from around the world to see the famous Crystal being manufactured at the factory in Waterford. Waterford Crystal tours are available all year round waterfordvisitorcentre.com Email: houseofwaterfordcrystal@ﬁskars.com Tel: + 353 (0)51 317000

Explore Munster

The Hunt Museum Cliffs of Moher Loop Head Lighthouse This popular tourist attraction is located at the mouth of the Shannon Estuary on the Loop Head Peninsula, which is one of two “Signature Discovery Points” in County Clare along the route of the Wild Atlantic Way. It also is a landmark location on the Loop Head Heritage Trail and is one of 12 Great Lighthouses of Ireland. The lighthouse is steeped in history and rich in maritime heritage with its origins dating back to the 1670s. The existing tower style lighthouse was constructed in 1854 and was operated and maintained by a keeper who lived within the lighthouse compound. In January 1991, the lighthouse was converted to automatic operation, and today is monitored by the CIL.Open daily (10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.) until 5 November.

The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Bunratty Castle

Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com

Titanic Experience Cobh

The Burren

Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.

Blarney Castle

The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again. 30

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Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912. The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.

Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.

www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie

Tel: 021 438 5252

An Unmissable Experience! Cobh, The Queenstown Story An informative and emotive story of Irish emigration. Learn about Cobh’s connection with Titanic and the Lusitania. Cobh Heritage Centre, Cobh, Co. Cork, Ireland. Open 7 days 9.30 – 5.30 (Sundays 11am) Tel 353 (21) 4 813591 Find Cobh the Queenstown Story on Facebook

Email: info@cobhheritage.com Web: www.cobhheritage.com

Recommended Bars in Munster

Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder, Irish Whiskey Experience

Ryans Bar

Developed by whiskey lovers as a first class destination for whiskey enthusiasts and novices alike. Guests will be amazed by shelf upon shelf of Irish, Scottish & international whiskies and a wide variety of Irish craft gin & vodka, craft beer and cider, eclectic wine list, and creative cocktail menu. Fresh, locally sourced food served daily. Irish Whiskey Experience offers the chance to discover more about the history, production & renaissance of Irish whiskey, with 10 masterclasses to choose from, running every day. 93 New Street Killarney, Co. Kerry Tel: +353646635700 www.celticwhiskeybar.com www.irishwhiskeyexperience.net

The Roaring Donkey

Perched up on “Top of The Hill” the Roaring Donkey is Cobh’s oldest traditional pub. Still original and oozing charm and authenticity the pub has been operating since 1880. It is known locally as the rugby pub but they do their best to accommodate most sports. A traditional music session has been running for nearly 40 years and is on every Wednesday night. Great craic guaranteed or enjoy a quiet pint in one of the finest beer gardens in town. The Roaring Donkey Tiknock, Cobh, Co. Cork Phone: (021) 481 1739

The Friary

Located by the river on the corner of Cork’s historic Shandon Street and North Mall, The Friary is a unique combination of old, new and eccentric. It's a homely craft beer bar with delicious gins and tonics. Look out for its astonishing range of special events; music, art, quizzes, the famous Drunk Spelling Bee, weird films, Penguin parties (really) and more! 62 Shandon St, Cork Tel: 087 668 0941

The Bierhaus

There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers. Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648 A friendly, family-run traditional Irish spot, Ryans Bar is one of Cobh’s most popular pubs, located right in the heart of town. Owned by Paul and Gemma O’Halloran for the last 21 years, the venue shows all live sports and features live music on the weekends, as well as occasional sessions midweek. On top of this, it boasts a real cozy feel in the Winter. This is thanks to its gorgeous, rustic open fire. 12 Casement Square, Cobh, Co. Cork (021) 481 1539

Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant

Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May. 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1)

The Original Durty Nelly’s

Durty Nelly’s can truly be described as one of Ireland’s landmark pubs. Nestling in the shadow of the magnificent Bunratty Castle, it is the first stopping off point for generations of visitors to Ireland arriving at nearby Shannon Airport. Apart from the warm Irish welcome that you’ll find at Nelly’s, you’ll also enjoy the finest, freshest local produce – whether you’re just dropping in for a snack or staying for a fine dining experience. The Original Durty Nelly's Bunratty West, Bunratty, Co. Clare +353 61 364 861 info@durtynellys.ie

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Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Munster Room Restaurant

The Lobster Bar and Restaurant

options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City. Open Monday - Saturday 5.30pm until late (Open Bank Holiday Sundays) 2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie

The Smuggler’s Inn The 2-AA Rosette Munster Room Restaurant is located on the idyllic private island of Waterford Castle Hotel and Golf Resort. The Island is just minutes by car from Waterford city centre and accessible by complimentary Resort ferry. The Castle culinary team work passionately to create dishes with sublime flavour using high quality produce sourced from local suppliers, the kitchen’s vegetable patch and by foraging for what grows naturally on the 310-acre Island. The menu changes seasonally so guests can always savour the freshest ingredients. The Munster Room Restaurant’s oak-panelled walls, Waterford Crystal chandeliers and ornate ceilings match the luxurious surroundings of the 16th Century Castle hotel. Home to a fine Irish whiskey collection, an impressive wine cellar and signature cocktails, the elegant Fitzgerald Room bar is perfect for an aperitif or post-dinner drink. During the day, the Castle serves Afternoon Tea in the bright conservatory overlooking the lawns, with homemade pastries and desserts prepared by dedicated pastry chefs. The restaurant and hotel have made the lists for both McKennas’ Guides 100 Best Places to Stay 2019 and 101 Great Irish Restaurants 2019. They have also won Luxury Hotel of the Year 2019 and Munster Fine Dining Hotel of the Year 2019. Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort The Island, Ballinakill, Co Waterford X91 Y722 info@waterfordcastleresort.com 00353 (0)51 878 203 www.waterfordcastleresort.com

The Strand Inn

Delicious food and friendly service are what makes The Lobster a must visit on the Ring of Kerry. Established over 60 years ago, it’s a family run business steeped in history. On the front of the restaurant is a giant lobster holding a pint of Guinness which can’t be missed. Inside a warm welcome, a relaxing atmosphere and award-winning food awaits. The restaurant prides itself on its seafood, with whole poached lobster, beetroot cured salmon, local mussels and seafood chowder some of their signature dishes. Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 947 4629 www.thelobsterwaterville.com

Out of the Blue

Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330, www.thesmugglersinn.ie

Momo They serve only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment. Dingle Harbour. Tel: 066 915 0811

La Boheme

Overlooking Hook Head, The Strand Inn is the perfect place to enjoy lingering breakfasts, relax over a long lunch or enjoy intimate, romantic suppers. Diners can look forward to the finest Irish beef, lobster and line caught seafood in a luxurious setting, characterised by beamed ceilings, original stone walls and planked floors. Dunmore East, Co.Waterford. Tel: 051 383 174 www.thestrandinn.com

This ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. It’s not hard to see why as the Chef/Proprietor, Henry Hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. Panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience. For total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms.

La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu

Momo is a multi-award-winning restaurant in Waterford City, Ireland. They pride themselves on their fresh and healthy menu featuring ingredients from the local food producers of Waterford County. You will enjoy a wide range of international dishes including lots of vegetarian/vegan options as well as delicious meat and fish dishes. Momo featured in the McKennas’ Guides Top 100 Restaurants in Ireland 2018, 2017 and 2016, and won ‘Best Casual Dining’ in Munster at the Irish Restaurant Awards 2017. 47 Patrick Street, Waterford, Ireland. Call (051) 581 509 kamila@momorestaurant.ie

JANUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

arr y Keith B Talks Injuries,

Sceptics and

y t i n a s n I w o h S w e N

Keith Barry has hacked into my mind twice now. While priding myself as a person of logic, I believe in his brand of magic.

he first time was at a press event a couple of months ago. Barry asked me to think of something completely random. Then by just staring into my eyes and telling me to imagine further objects related to my first thought, he correctly intuited what was in my head. The second time was as Barry was promoting his show Insanity – touring across Ireland now until March 14. Heading into the interview, I assumed he would not remember

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me as our last encounter was only in passing. Instead, I’m greeted with: “We’ve met before. Come in.” A consummate showman, Barry has a magic trick ready for me. On the desk between us is a scrabble board. He asks me to spell a word with the letter tiles and to conceal it from him. “Focus on the word – the last letter,” Barry tells me. “Can you think of an animal starting with the last letter? Don’t tell me.”

Looking at me intensely, he says: “This animal has four legs. It’s a large land-based animal. It’s grey. Are you thinking of an elephant?” I am. “Now. Focus on the word again. The scrabble pieces have numbers on them because you get points when you add them up. Do you know what yours adds up to?” I do. Running through the numbers from one to ten quickly, Barry correctly lands on six. “Now in your mind say the word out loud

over and over again.” I comply. “More more more. Was it ‘more’?” It was. Flabbergasted once again by the mind hacker, I say: “Insane. That’s literally insanity,” to which I get reply: “Well in Insanity, I’m getting electrocuted and lobotomised. It’s a bit madder than that.” A household name on account of his frequent appearances on TV and his 20 years touring, Barry is a different kind of magician. Rather than play up the mystical element of his profession, he is logic driven. On this topic, Barry says: “There’s too many people willing to be deceitful for their own gain. I’m not one of those. I am an entertainer. I use a whole load of different techniques. I use magic techniques, deceptive techniques and real techniques – hypnosis, NLP (neuro linguistic programming) – to create an evening of entertainment. I’m telling you I’m going to fool you and then I fool you. I’m not telling you I’m using any mystical powers.” Speaking about how he developed Insanity, Barry says he landed on the concept thanks to a long-time fascination: “There’s a very thin line between genius and insanity. I investigated Edvard Munch, most famous for painting The Scream. He was in and out of mental institutions and asylums and was getting electric shock therapy. Some of his best paintings were born out of that. Your right hemisphere becomes ignited from the electricity.” “I’m a terrible artist which means I can never really figure out drawings or pictures that people are thinking. My right hemisphere needs to be ignited. So, every night, I’m going to electrocute it on stage – both sides of my brain, both temples. Trust me, it hurts. That’s to help me hack into people’s brains and figure out what images they are thinking of. I will be using an easel and paints, based around Munch.” The night of the interview, Barry debuted the above trick to a select number of press. It really needs to be seen to be believed, the uncomfortable squirms of the audience followed by their amazement at the successfully completed routine was practically palpable. Even sceptics were left dumbfounded. On non-believers, Barry says: “I quite like seeing the transition of them being sceptics at the start to not necessarily believers at the end but knowing what they’ve seen is as genuine as it can get. There’s no stooges, actors, plants or camera tricks.” Drawing inspiration from other historical figures such as Rasputin – known as ‘The Mad Monk’ – Barry will also perform a routine designed around lobotomies, an old controversial method of treating mental disorders. “They used to use ice picks. They’d drive them over people’s eyeballs into their brain. Every night I have an ice pick, a person on stage and me. I don’t want to say too much more. I want it to be a surprise. But you can figure out where that’s going,” he jokes. I ask has he ever been hurt performing. “I passed out one time in the Olympia with 1,000 people watching in the middle of an escape. I had my head wrapped in clingfilm. I got winded and when I went to breath, I inhaled a mouth full of clingfilm and passed out. Also, years ago I did a stunt on TV where I was frozen in a tub of ice for 47 minutes. I was really sick for three weeks after.” There’s also a current, contemporary edge to Barry’s new show, which he spent four months developing. “We’re in a more insane world than ever right now for a host of different reasons,” argues Barry. “I have a whole routine based around conspiracy theories. Every night we create one in the show.” Meanwhile, like many of Barry’s other

tours there will be lots of chances for participation. “In the second half, I explain that everyone has about 400 impulsive intrusive thoughts per day, insane thoughts we are not in control of. I get the audience consciously to think of weird wacky things that they’ve either done or they want to do or even dreams that they’ve had. Then I throw a catch box into the audience. Whoever catches it I must try and hack into their brain and figure out their crazy thought, much to the hilarity of everybody else.” Sensing my next question, Barry states: “I know from previous experience people will say: ‘That seems really interesting but I’m never going to that show for fear of landing on stage’. This is where the Insanity show differs from anything I’ve done in 20 years. We’re going to have 500 meters of tin foil outside the front door. If you want, you can grab a metre and create your own tin foil hat.” “Of course, that’s tongue-in-cheek. Tin foil hats don’t do anything. But it means that you opt out. I won’t go anywhere near you. But if you are not wearing a tin foil hat, I might use you in a demonstration. I quite like getting sceptics on-stage so I encourage them to come and not wear a hat.” For the full list of dates and to purchase tickets for Keith Barry’s show Insanity – touring across Ireland now until March 14, 2020 visit Ticketmaster.ie

JANUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Welcome to Connaught

Macnas Festival Parade This Fierce Beauty

The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Galway city

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Connaught has some Carrick on Shannon of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park the present day without interruption. Croagh in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician must for all. Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, For those interested in a religious experience Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist custom of trekking up the mountain has been are reputed to have appeared. The apparition faithfully handed down from generation to was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the from six years to seventy-five and included picturesque town of Westport, and its conical men, women and children. The shrine has shape soars majestically above the surrounding become so popular in modern times that the countryside with magnificent views of Clew Ireland West International Airport was built Bay beneath. especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, Connaught. religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst The county also features the pilgrimage site an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered has it all.

Recommended Bars in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)

Monroe's

Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.

This famous venue in the heart of Galway city is renowned as one of the best live music venues in the city. Across two stages, they host regular National & International acts. The friendly staff will assure you of a warm welcome and they serve great food in the Tavern along with free live music seven days a week.

17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820

The Front Door

Dominick Street, Galway 091 583397 www.monroes.ie

Bosh Bar and Restaurant

Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar. Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534

Matt Malloy’s One of Galway city’s most popular watering holes, The Front Door is a contemporary Irish bar with a late bar, live music and an extensive drinks menu. Located in Galway’s bustling Latin Quarter and spread across two floors The Front Door features five bars, including a stylish cocktail lounge and Sonny Molloy’s Whiskey Bar. The Front Door is the perfect spot to sample Galway’s nightlife. 8 Cross Street Upper, Galway, H91 YY06 Tel: (091) 563 757

This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within. Bridge St., Westport Tel: 098 26655

The Quays Bar Galway

Roísín Dubh

It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now! Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540

Located in the city centre in Galway’s vibrant ‘Latin Quarter’ The Quays Bar Galway is one of Galway’s most famous and historic drinking establishments. For close on 400 years The Quays has catered to both Galwegians and visitors to the city of Galway. The restaurant offers a carvery lunch and evening a la carte dinner. The Quays was awarded IMRO Connacht Live Music Venue of the year 2017. 11 Quay St, Galway Tel: (091) 568 347 JANUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Shannonside

Winter Music Festival to Showcase Some Super Sounds From modest beginnings as a concert and a session, the Shannonside Winter Music Festival has grown into a packed programme of over 80 events, delivered across 17 locations in Sixmilebridge and Bunratty, Co. Clare.

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he 21st iteration of the festival takes place from Thursday, January 16 to Monday, January 20. It includes an impressively eclectic mix of music styles - 10 different genres to be precise – the combination of which is set to brighten the dark Winter nights. Awarded the accolade of best festival in Clare earlier this year, the annual event is organised by Sixmilebridge Folk Club. It has become synonymous with delivering exceptional musical diversity and bringing visitors to the villages of Sixmilebridge and Bunratty at a time when tourists are normally sparse on the ground. Launching the 2020 programme, which can be found online at www. wmw.ie, festival director Michael Minihan said in a statement: “Taking the helm after the stewardship demonstrated by the festival founder,

Brendan Walsh, who directed the festival through its 20th anniversary has been daunting but exciting. Great thanks must be extended to Brendan for fostering an appreciation of musical diversity and bringing such unique talent to County Clare every year.” “The committee have worked hard to continue this tradition and will always be indebted to Brendan for his innovative endeavours. We can promise an equally enthralling schedule of music, song and dance as has been delivered over the past two decades. We were trained well by our founder to take the festival forward. We hope it will encourage people of all ages to appreciate and take up playing a musical instrument.” Delighted to be associated once again with the festival as a sponsor, Shannon Heritage managing director

Niall O’Callaghan, in welcoming the inclusion of the one-day music trail at Bunratty Castle and Folk Park as an element of the event, said: “We are proud to once again support the Shannonside Winter Music Festival at Bunratty Castle and Folk Park. The committee have done a terrific job over the years in making this event one of the highlights of the musical year. I would like to wish them every success again in 2020.” This music trail to be held on Saturday, January 18 is aimed at families. It gives every generation the opportunity to hear all Shannonside offers in one venue on the same day. Music changes on the hour, from noon until 5pm, at four venues in the Folk Park – two levels in Bunratty Castle, a concert-style theatre venue in the Corn Barn and the delightful Tea Room. The full line-up for the festival, meanwhile, will include a mix of international, national and local artists. They will be performing classical, traditional Irish, Cajun, blues, folk, bluegrass, Celtic funk, ragtime country blues, American jam and acapella vocals in local pubs, restaurants and concert

venues throughout Sixmilebridge and Bunratty. The headline traditional event this time around is the Metis Ireland Saturday concert in Bunratty Castle Hotel. This will feature Cherish the Ladies, Joanie Madden’s well-loved all female ensemble featuring Kate Purcell on vocals. Meanwhile, bluegrass fans can look forward to the Tennessee sounds of the Midnight Run (US). Led by Seth Mulder and supported by newcomers Sons of Navarone from Belgium, they will be playing at the Shannon Springs Bluegrass Concert on the Sunday. This will be held in the GAA Hall in Sixmilebridge. Back for a fourth visit to Clare are Kimber’s Men from England. Probably the best sea shanty group anywhere, they perform incredible four-part acapella vocals. Newcomers to the festival, meanwhile, include Le Llamas (Switzerland), the Cajun Roosters (from all over Europe) and Wood of O – a beautiful duo compromised of Breege Phelan and Will McLellan. The Fiddle Case, an amazing fourpiece trad/folk group from Doolin, are also making their festival debut in Bunratty Castle and Folk Park. Lovers

of rocking blues, meanwhile, will be keen to hear DD and the Delta Boys from Donegal. The festival always celebrates local talent. This year that will include acts like MEGA-Trad, who return after some amazing shows at the 20th anniversary festival in January 2019. On top of this, Ger O’Donnell and Trevor Sexton will be delivering some of the best vocal and guitar work in the country. Mark Donnellan from the Tulla Ceili Band, and Katie O’Sullivan will be among the top-class musicians leading sessions over the weekend.The Athenry Youth Orchestra will also be back, as are the familiar faces of Gael Force 4, members of Sixmilebridge Folk Club. Singers’ sessions in the pubs, and the set dancing in Bunratty Castle Hotel on the Sunday afternoon are always well supported. Sessions throughout both villages will feature the best of local and visiting talent. For full details on this year’s Shannonside Winter Music Festival 2020 or to book weekend tickets or tickets for the headline concerts, check out www.wmw.ie and www.facebook.com/ShannonsideWMW.

JANUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Explore Connaught

Westport House

Kylemore Abbey Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic Victorian walled garden, which won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food.

Glencar Waterfall Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. The most dramatic waterfall descends from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.

Arigna Mining Experience Discover what coal mining life was like for coal miners in the Arigna Valley in Roscommon from the 1700’s until its closure in 1990. Visit the exhibition area to discover the history of the mine and then take an underground tour of the mine, where the methods used to extract coal are demonstrated, with lighting and sound effects added for authenticity.

Mullaghmore

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www.WestportHouse.ie

Dún Aonghasa National Museum of Ireland - Country Life The National Museum of Ireland - Country Life in Turlough Park, Castlebar houses exhibits showing how rural people in Ireland lived from the time of the Great Famine right up until the 1950s. The museum features four levels of interactive displays and exhibitions that offer a fascinating insight into the lives of the rural Irish people in years gone by.

Connemara Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Surfers and windsurfers from all over the world have ridden waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable.

Westport House is one of the finest country houses in Ireland and since it opened to the public in the 1960s, over four million visitors have passed through its doors. There are over 30 rooms on show, where visitors can immerse themselves in over 500 years of history, going back to the time when the Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley ruled the estate. There is loads for the whole family to enjoy on the estate, including the Pirate Adventure Park, the Birds of Prey Centre and the Westport Train Tour.

Connemara is a world of unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the north through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean.

Located on Inismór in the Aran Islands, Dún Aonghasa is one of the best examples of a semi-circular stone fort in Europe. Located on the 300ft cliffside on the south of the island, it is one of Ireland’s most visited attractions and offers stunning views that stretch the length of the island.

Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside, offering spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding countryside. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year.

Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Venice Italian Restaurant

This is somewhere special to spend the evening, with a relaxing atmosphere and fine dining at its best. Experience Venice’s fine Italian cuisine, with their distinctive taste and beautiful aromas you’ll be sure to have those tastebuds tickled. With stylish facilities, they offer an elegant dining experience that their attention to detail and exceptional service will ensure. Venice is the best Italian restaurant in Galway City Centre and boasts a wide range of tasty Italian dishes. 11 Lower Abbeygate St, Galway City Phone: 091 530-751. Email: restaurantvenice@yahoo.ie

Eala Bhán

Péarla na Mara

Péarla na Mara offer Irish-inspired cuisine with a Mediterranean touch in their restaurant in Oranmore. Using only the finest ingredients, locally sourced in the West and delivered daily specialising in fish, seafood, meat and poultry dishes, along with mouth-watering vegetarian dishes. Pair your meal with wines chosen from the carefully selected wine list. You are welcome to bring your own bottle of wine for a nominal corkage fee of €5 for any amount of wine bottles. Unit 10, Howley Square, Dublin Road, Oranmore Tel: 091 483900 Email: info@pearlanamara.ie

Brasserie on the Corner

Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823

Brasserie on the Corner on Galway’s Eglinton Street specialises in delectable seafood and steak dishes. They serve lunch and dinner and both menus are created with local, seasonal produce at their heart. These delicious offerings are created using produce from local suppliers. You will also be treated to an extensive and delicious wine and cocktail menu. You will truly find pride and passion on the plate!

The Yew Tree Restaurant

Brasserie On The Corner, Eglinton Street, Galway, Ireland Tel: +353 91 530333

If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell.

Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food. Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255

An Port Mór Restaurant

Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West. 1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730

Ashford Castle

Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906. Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003

Upstairs @ West Restaurant

Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit. The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000 JANUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

‘A Holy Show’ To Tour Nationwide Hilarious hit comedy A Holy Show is going on tour across Ireland in January, February and March, as well as performing two dates in the Irish Cultural Centre in Paris, following on from critical success at the Edinburgh and Dublin Fringe Festivals. Written and directed by Janet Moran, it stars Roseanna Purcell (Copper Face Jacks: The Musical, Red Rock, Fair City) and Mark Fitzgerald (Copper Face Jacks: The Musical, Alone It Stands, Foxy). The play is a nostalgic comedy based on the very Irish hijacking of an Aer Lingus plane in 1981 by an ex-Trappist monk. He had a bottle of water as his weapon, the Pope as his nemesis, and a burning desire to know The Third Secret of Fatima. A Holy Show brings audiences on board that ill-fated Aer Lingus flight EI 164 from Dublin to London. The play follows the passengers and crew as the hijacking unfolds. Discussing taking her work on the

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road, Moran said in a statement: “I’m so thrilled to be bringing A Holy Show on tour throughout Ireland with the brilliant Verdant Productions.” “The show has played to standing ovations in Edinburgh Fringe and I hope audiences will laugh their heads off, fall in love with the superb actors and maybe ask themselves what should we really believe in now?” Organisers say this production of A Holy Show is high energy, taking audiences on a whirlwind of a comic journey with both actors playing multiple characters at breakneck speed. They also say the ‘sharp, insightful script delivers a laugh a minute alongside a revealing and probing understanding of faith in Ireland, both in the 80s and today.’ Critics seem to agree. Awarding A Holy Show four stars, The List called it: “Gloriously comic and unexpectedly thoughtful … it carries you off to places you didn’t think it would go,” while Britishtheatre.com wrote: “Full of

energy and insight, this is a delightful and entertaining show which is remarkable in being Moran’s solo writing and directing debut.” In another four-star rave, meanwhile, The Arts Review described the play as ‘Airplane meets Hall’s Pictorial Weekly’ and said: “It will have you cracking a rib with laughter … Only in Ireland could you get a hijacking this ridiculous. Or this hilarious. Or this much fun.’ From January 23, A Holy Show is going on a full nationwide tour, with dates announced for Belfast, Carlow, Cavan, Clare, Cork, Dublin, Galway, Laois, Limerick, Longford, Tipperary and Wicklow, along with the Paris dates. Tickets are on sale now. See local venues for booking details. Early booking is advised to avoid disappointment. For more information about A Holy Show, visit www.facebook. com/AHolyShowByJanetMoran/. Meanwhile, check out its touring dates below.

Nationwide Tour Dates:

23 - 25 January - Project Arts Centre, Dublin 29 January - Town Hall Theatre, Galway 31 January - 1 February: Belltable Arts Centre, Limerick 4 February - Dunamaise Arts Centre, Portlaoise 5 February - Mermaid Arts Centre, Bray 7 Feb - Ramor Theatre, Cavan 8 February - Visual, Carlow 11 - 12 February - Civic Theatre,Tallaght 14 - 15 February - Pavilion Theatre, DÃºn Laoghaire 17 - 20 February - Everyman Cork 21 February - Backstage, Longford 22 February - Draiocht, Blanchardstown 25 February - Glor, Ennis 27 - 29 February - The MAC, Belfast 4-5 March - Irish Cultural Centre, Paris 7 March - Source,Thurles JANUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Welcome to Ulster

The Giants Causway Photo: @storytravelers The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise. County Donegal is in the northwest of the

‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.

new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Mount Errigal

Belfast Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or 44

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County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the

Linsfort Church, Co. Donegal

Recommended Bars in Ulster The Crown Liquor Saloon

Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin. 51 Donegall St., Belfast Tel: 028 9023 3768

White’s Tavern

Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down. 2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3080

Kelly’s Cellars Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food. 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3187

This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city. 30-32 Bank St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 6058

The Duke Of York

The John Hewitt

One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further. 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 1062

Peadar O’Donnell’s

There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore. Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry. 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry Tel: 028 7126 7295 JANUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox

Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.

The Ginger Bistro

Coco

1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121

55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers. 1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811

The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger. 7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421

Deane’s Restaurant

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150

Shu

They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table. 253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655

Vanilla Restaurant

Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.

Telfords Restaurant

Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268

Lough Erne Resort

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000

Sun Kee Restaurant

One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. 42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics. 36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134

Sakura

In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant. 82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590

Speranza Restaurant

This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

Lusty Beg

This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300

16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213

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Explore Ulster

Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end.

The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there. In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value.

Dunluce Castle With a rich history, in a stunning, location, Dunluce Castle on the coast of Antrim is just waiting to be explored. Visitor information includes an audio visual tour of the castle, with a ‘treasure hunt’ encouraging younger visitors to explore. You can also download a Dunluce Castle app for iPhone and Android devices, available free of charge from the App Store and Google Play.

The Old Bushmills Distillery Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens.

Ulster American Folk Park Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories. Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier.

Down County Museum Situated next to the Down Cathedral, the Down County Museum houses modern galleries telling the stories of the area and fantastic temporary exhibitions. Learn about the museum’s history as a gaol and see the Downpatrick High Cross before relaxing in their new Cathedral View Tea Room.

Belleek Pottery One of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages.

Glenveagh National Park The second largest national park in Ireland, Glenveagh is a remote and beautiful wilderness in the north-west of Donegal. Full of rugged mountains, pristine lakes and tumbling waterfalls. Visitors can also take a tour of Glenveagh Castle on the banks of Lough Veagh and take a walk through the beautiful walled gardens, which boast a multitude of exotic plant.

Florence Court Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours.

h c n u L o t Out Much loved Belfast arts festival Out to Lunch is returning from January 3 – 26 this month.

elebrating its 15th year, the event is specially designed to banish post-holiday blues throughout the longest, darkest month of the year. Thanks to Out to Lunch, January will be illuminated with a dizzying dose of comedy, film, hot food, literature, live music, spoken word and theatre. Musical highlights from the lovingly crafted programme include the likes of Badly Drawn Boy, Dea Matrona, DJ Yoda, Deven Green & Ned Douglas, Jacqui Dankworth, Jane Weaver, Jonah Tolchin, Martin Stephenson and the Daintees, Nine Below Zero, Portico Quartet, Seth Lakeman, The Utopia Strong featuring Steve Davis, The 4 of Us, The Darkling Air, Turin Brakes and Xylouris White. There’s also a DJ set from The Charlatans frontman Tim Burgess, Something about Simon – an event honouring Paul Simon, a tribute to Julie Andrews, an evening of stories and songs with Oscar and Grammy winner Ryan Bingham,

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Glasshouse classical ensemble reinterpreting Bowie’s Berlin trilogy, a musical lunch-time hour with the NI Opera Studio and a performance from the Ulster Orchestra. In terms of comedy, there’s top entertainment from the likes of Abandonman, Cassetteboy, Craig Hill, Eleanor Conway, Emer Maguire, Gary Delaney, Ian Saville and The Delightful Sausage and Joanna Neary + Paul Currie. Crime fiction’s undisputed supremo Val McDermid will also be attending Out to Lunch, as is acclaimed Chocolat author Joanne Harris. Meanwhile, Cerys Matthews will be in town to discuss her new book Where the Wild Cooks Go. Moreover, there will be an afternoon of the best Irish poetry from Stephen Sexton and Leontia Flynn. Also, 15-year-old autistic naturalist, activist and writer Dara McAnulty will be in conversation with Marie-Louise Muir. Out to Lunch’s cinema season, meanwhile, will be focused this year on the topic of pioneers. It will feature a stop-motion

Belfast’s Bespoke Boutique Winter Festival

animation workshop and screening of classic Jason and the Argonauts, both in celebration of trailblazing visual effects creator Ray Harryhausen. To celebrate marriage equality in Northern Ireland, the festival will also be showing the little seen film adaptation of E.M. Forster’s powerful (and unpublished in his lifetime) gay love story Maurice. Made in 1984 and starring a young Hugh Grant, the movie is directed by Oscar-winning filmmaker James Ivory. There’s also plenty of documentaries geared towards music lovers. Inna Da Yard follows some of reggae’s most seminal musicians. Meanwhile, The Heart is a Drum is centred on the enigmatic brilliant Klaus Dinger, the genius behind krautrock legends Neu! and La Düsseldorf. The Sound of my Voice traces the story of the remarkable iconic Linda Ronstadt, as The Vinyl Revival explores the renaissance in all things vinyl.

Other Out to Lunch treats include a lecture on how to drink beer (beginners welcome!), as well as Speci/men by Davy and Kristin McGuire. The latter is a sprawling, ambitious exhibition of pocket-sized people in a witty anthropological study of the human species, presented by University of Ulster. Speaking about this year’s line-up, festival director Sean Kelly said in a statement: “The 15th Out to Lunch Festival is a landmark we’re determined to celebrate in style. In the current social and political gloom, we hope we can offer a shaft of light for people throughout the longest, darkest month of the year.” “I’m hugely proud of this programme, it’s loaded with all the usual Out to Lunch goodness, but with a little extra zing on the side. We’ll be standing by in January to help revive postholiday spirits and break you into 2020 ever so gently! See you at Out to Lunch!” Tickets and information can be found at www.cqaf.com.

JANUARY 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Great Irish Writers

WB YEATS

ecognised as one of the foremost figures of 20th century literature, William Butler Yeats is one of Ireland’s best known and influential writers. Although primarily known for his poetry, Yeats was also a prolific playwright and was a founder of one of the country’s best-known theatres - the Abbey Theatre in Dublin. He was also the first Irish winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature and served as a Senator after the establishment of the Irish Free State in 1922, where he acted as a passionate advocate for minority rights. Yeats was born into a highly artistic family in Dublin in 1865 but spent a lot of his childhood in Sligo, a part of the country that the writer is still closely associated with. Heavily influenced by mysticism and the work of Percy Bysshe Shelley, his first work was published when

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he was seventeen. In 1889, Yeats met the ardent Irish nationalist Maud Gonne. He fell in love with her, although she did not return his feelings and turned down several marriage proposals from him over the next few years. His work evolved around this time to focus on the theme of unrequited love, as well as social commentary. An example of the latter is the poem ‘Easter 1916’ about the Easter Rising. Meanwhile, in 1896, Yeats met Lady Gregory and along with a group of other writers opened the Abbey Theatre in 1904. He remained involved with the theatre for the rest of his life and wrote many plays that were staged there, starting with Cathleen Ní Houlihan, which was performed on the venue’s opening night. Remarkably, Yeats’ work is considered to have gotten better

after he won the Nobel Prize in 1923 and he wrote prolifically and to great acclaim in his later years. After his appointment to the Irish Senate he became a passionate advocate for divorce in Ireland and often spoke out against censorship. In 1917, he married Georgie Hyde-Lees, who was 27 years younger than him. In spite of the age difference and rumours of several affairs that Yeats had, the couple remained married for the rest of his life and had two children. Yeats spent much of his later years travelling and he died in France in January 1939. Yeats is still hugely influential today, with his work having a massive effect on a diverse range of artists and writers. There are many who consider him not just Ireland’s greatest poet but one of the world’s greatest poets and a man whose writings will live on for a very long time.