Travel Ireland Volume 6 Issue 66 by Travel Ireland Magazine

Travelireland ireland magazine

Volume 6 Issue 66 October 2019

A Taster of Dublin’s New Winter Food Fest Abbey Theatre’s Cool Winter Programme

A Marvel-lous New Arena Stunt Show Pat Liddy Takes a Stroll Around

Acclaimed Play

Asking for It

Dublin Castle

Returns

Richard Harris Film Festival Celebrates 7th Year

Dublin Theatre Festival’s Jam-Packed Programme Feast Your Eyes on Dingle Food Fest

Celebrate Halloween with

IFI’s Horrorthon

Kilkenny Food Festival is One to Savour

A Corker of a

Jazz Festival

A Decade of Dancing | Tipperary Dance Festival Returns

CONTENTS

4 Welcome to Leinster 5 IFI Horrorthon 6 Marvel Universe LIVE! 8 Asking for It 10 Theatre 12 Dublin Castle by Pat Liddy 14 Abbey Theatre Winter Programme 16 Dublin Theatre Festival 18 Explore Leinster 19 Taste of Dublin: Festive Edition 20 Leinster Restaurants 22 Leinster Bars 24 Welcome to Munster 26 Munster Restaurants 27 TDP International Dance Festival 28 Munster Bars 30 Cobh Heritage Centre 31 Explore Munster 32 Richard Harris International Film Festival 34 Guinness Cork Jazz Festival 36 Dingle Food Festival 38 Welcome to Connaught 40 Shopping 42 Explore Connaught 43 Connaught Bars 44 Connaught Restaurants 45 Welcome to Ulster 46 Ulster Bars 47 Savour Kilkenny 48 Explore Ulster 49 Ulster Restaurants 50 Great Irish Writers

Ellen Media Communications Ltd Suite 4, Talbot Business Centre, 19 Talbot St , Dublin 1. Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag

Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome to our October issue! Whether this is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. In our latest issue, we shine a spotlight on some fantastic events happening across the country. These include the Dingle Food Festival, Dublin Theatre Festival, the Guinness Cork Jazz Festival, IFI Horrorthon, the Richard Harris International Film Festival, Savour Kilkenny, Taste of Dublin: Festive Edition and the Tipperary Dance Platform International Dance Festival. We also give readers the low down on the best theatre to see – including the Abbey Theatre’s stellar Winter programme and the return of smash-hit play Asking for It to the Irish stage. Meanwhile, Pat Liddy explores the history of Dublin Castle and the magazine also highlights the great new arena event Marvel Universe LIVE! Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heartfelt céad míle fáilte and hope you enjoy your stay. Taisteal sásta (Happy Travels).

32 6

Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Stephen Porzio (stephen@ellenmediacom.ie) Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Contributors: Pat Liddy, Angeline Le Mercier, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’ , Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin, Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael McLaughlin, Roma Keeley. We wish to record our thanks to Michael Bates, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. We would also like to thank Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and 10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.

OCTOBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city. If you want to escape to the country without

GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country. County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

Phoenix Park, Dublin through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone. Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ

St Kevin’s Church, Glendalough

All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the

smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June. Laois is where you can try your hand at a

Round Tower, Glendalough range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum. Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor. Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!

Horrorthon Celebrate Halloween With IFI’s

IFI Horrorthon returns to the Irish Film Institute in Temple Bar this Halloween (October 24 – 28) with its usual mix of bloody madness and mayhem. Ireland’s first exclusively horror film festival, 2019’s programme is set to showcase the best international and homegrown work in the genre. One highlight being screened this year is Color Out of Space, a new H.P. Lovecraft adaptation starring Nicholas Cage and Joely Richardson. A struggling artist (Cage) tries his hand at gardening after his family inherit a rural family estate. While unsuccessful at first, when a small meteorite crashes in the yard and infects the water-supply, the effect on the crops is bountiful. However, the alien presence soon begins to take an ill-effect on he and his family The horror is co-writer and director Richard Stanley’s long-awaited return to filmmaking. Acclaimed in the 90s for cult movies Hardware and Dust Devil, this is his first feature-length picture since being fired from 1996’s The Island of Dr Moreau – a notoriously disastrous production recently detailed in the documentary Lost Soul. Critics are saying his latest is a welcome comeback. Color Out of Space earned rave reviews following its recent Toronto International Film Festival world premiere. Another acclaimed screening at Horrorthon 2019 is Australian horrorcomedy Little Monsters. Starring Oscar-

winner Lupita Nyong’o (12 Years a Slave, Us), a washed-up musician must team up with a teacher and kids-show personality to protect young children from a sudden outbreak of zombies. Hailing from Ireland, meanwhile, is The Perished which will receive its world premiere at this year’s event. Directed by Paddy Murphy, the film centres on a woman shunned by her family and unforgiving boyfriend after having a pregnancy terminated. Travelling to a sympathetic friend’s house in the country to recover, unbeknownst to her the house is the site of a mass baby grave. These lost, confused spirits want to be reborn. But they need a mother. Also noteworthy at Horrorthon this year is American horror Bliss. Already very wellreceived stateside, the thriller focuses upon a brilliant painter facing the worst creative block of her life. In order to overcome it and complete her masterpiece, she spirals into a hallucinatory hellscape of drugs and murder in the underbelly of LA. Another film from the US to look out for is Girl on the Third Floor. This horror centres on an ex-con who tries to renovate a rundown mansion with a sordid history for his growing family. However, the house has other plans. The full programme for Horrorthon 2019 will be unveiled closer to the festival at ifi. ie/. There you will be able to buy tickets including a special five-day pass for the event. OCTOBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Action packed

Arena Stunt Show Set to be a

MARVEL Are you an MCU fan struggling to ﬁll that post-Endgame and Far from Home void? Fear not, as Marvel Universe LIVE! – an action-packed live arena stunt show featuring 20 of your favourite Marvel superheroes and villains – is coming to Ireland. The live experience will be taking place at the SSE Arena in Belfast from November 8 – 10. This is before travelling down to Dublin’s 3Arena for shows between November 15 – 17. Playing in Dublin for the ﬁrst time ever, Marvel fans are expected to assemble for this all-new adventure, an epic battle of good versus evil. The show sees SpiderMan, The Avengers and the Guardians of the Galaxy join forces with Doctor

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

Strange, master of the mystic arts. This is in a race against time to recover the Wand of Watoomb before it falls into the villainous Loki’s hands. Helping Loki is the scheming Nebula and the conniving and loathsome Green Goblin. The incredible superhuman forces of Iron Man, Thor, Black Panther, Hulk and Black Widow will unite in clashes that pit student against mentor, sister against sister and brother against brother. Featuring superhero action, thrills and drama, the audience will witness cutting-edge special effects, pyrotechnics, and impressive 3D video projection mapping in this smashing and soaring new production. With aerial stunts, martial arts and daring motorcycle skills, fans of

all ages will be immersed in the Marvel universe in a show unlike anything they’ve ever seen before. Marvel Universe LIVE! arrives hot on the heels of both Avengers: Endgame and Spider-Man: Far from Home. The former grossed nearly $2.8 billion worldwide, breaking numerous box office records, including becoming the highest-grossing film of all time, overtaking 2009’s Avatar. Meanwhile, Spider-Man: Far from Home continued Marvel’s success. Centring on the famous web slinger as he gets caught up in an adventure while on a school trip across Europe, the movie grossed over $1.1 billion worldwide. This makes it the first Spider-Man film to pass the billiondollar mark, the fourth highest-grossing

film of 2019 and the 24th-highest-grossing film of all time. Marvel Universe LIVE! is brought to audiences by Feld Entertainment. They are the worldwide leader in producing and presenting live touring family experiences, entertaining millions across 75 countries and six continents. Their other properties include Monster Jam, Monster Energy Supercross, Disney on Ice, Disney Live!, Sesame Street Live!, DreamWorks Trolls the Experience and the upcoming Jurassic World Live. Speaking about Marvel Universe LIVE!, Juliette Feld, producer of the show, said in a statement: “Our tremendously talented creative team and a nearly super human cast, have created a show that brings Marvel to life. Marvel Universe LIVE! creates an experience that immerses families in non-stop action, creating movie-style thrills and jaw-dropping stunts that showcase the powers of your favourite superheroes right before your eyes.” On top of the Belfast and Dublin shows, Marvel Universe LIVE! will also be flying into arenas across the UK from September until December 2019. This includes cities Nottingham, London, Sheffield, Glasgow, Liverpool, Newcastle, Manchester and Birmingham. Tickets for the SSE Arena shows in Belfast cost from £24. Meanwhile, the 3Arena Dublin shows are priced from €29. 3Arena Dublin tickets can be purchased in person from Ticketmaster outlets nationwide, by telephone at 0818 719 300 or online via www.ticketmaster.ie. Meanwhile, stay current on the show’s latest developments by following Marvel Universe LIVE! on Facebook at www.facebook.com/ MarvelOnTour and on Twitter @MarvelOnTour.

OCTOBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

t I r o f g n i k As Acclaimed Play

Returns

Acclaimed play Asking for It is returning to the Irish stage at the Gaiety Theatre from October 9 – 26 for a limited run of 18 performances. A stage adaptation of Louise O’Neill’s devastating novel of the same name, the play shines an unflinching light on the experience of a young woman whose life is changed forever by a horrific act of violence. One night in a small town in Co. Cork, where everyone knows everyone, things spiral terrifyingly out of control. What will happen now? – To Emma? To her family? To the others? Audience response to Asking for It has been overwhelming. The initial run in Cork broke every box office record at The Everyman. Meanwhile, the following run at the Abbey Theatre also sold out well in advance of the production even opening. The play then went on to become the landslide winner of the Audience Choice Award at The Irish Times Irish Theatre Awards for 2018. O’Neill was stunned by the production too. Speaking to the Irish Examiner, she said: “Nothing could have prepared me for what I saw on that stage. The first act was a whirl of youthful energy and raw sexuality, cut through with an undercurrent of crackling tension. During the party scene, the music felt as if it was pulsating in my veins, my heart racing, and my throat closing up with dread.” “As the huge screen splintered into broken images, with Emma’s voice narrating the scene, I desperately wished for a way to save her from her inevitable fate. I could hear someone quietly sobbing and jolted when I realised it was me.”

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

Critics loved Asking for It on stage too. The Irish Examiner called it: “powerful, provocative, hard-hitting, shocking … a sharply observed and at times wincingly true-to-life portrayal of a family and its disintegration … funny, infuriating and unbearably sad,” while The Irish Times said: “striking production … excellent cast … fizzing with performed sexual confidence and aggression – an accomplished, poetic merging of technology and stagecraft.” Asking for It is O’Neill’s second novel (following her 2014 debut Only Ever Yours), which caused a sensation upon release in 2015. It won Book of the Year at the Irish Book Awards in 2015 and spent 52 weeks in the Irish top 10 bestseller list. O’Neill’s career since then has gone from strength to strength. Last year, she released two books. The first was Almost Love, a Dublin-set drama. The second was The Surface Breaks, a feminist retelling of The Little Mermaid.

Produced by Landmark Productions and The Everyman, Asking for It was adapted for the stage by Meadhbh McHugh (Helen and I), in collaboration with Annabelle Comyn (Artistic Director of Hatch Theatre Company), who also directs. The cast includes Venetia Bowe, Dawn Bradfield, Sean Doyle, Kwaku Fortune, Liam Heslin, Aisling Kearns, Shane Lennon, Sile Maguire, Amy McElhatton, Tiernan MessittGreen, Simon O’Gorman and Darragh Shannon. Those who missed Asking for It previously will have another chance to experience this timely production when it returns to the Gaiety Theatre this month. Tickets cost from €16. They can be purchased in person at the Gaiety Theatre box office and at Ticketmaster outlets, over the phone by calling 08 18 719 388 and online by visiting Ticketmaster.ie. Visit the Gaiety Theatre’s website at www.gaietytheatre.ie/ for more details.

OCTOBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Theatre Mermaid Arts Centre Before by Pat Kinevane

America in search of her brother Jeddo, a child soldier in the Confederate army. As Eliza and Jeddo’s stories unfold, they shine a light on the stark realities of war, its invisible rise, and what is left in its wake. Dates: Oct 9 - 19 Tel: 01 887 2200 or visit www.abbeytheatre.ie Also at the Abbey this month: Last Orders at the Dockside Sep 23 – Oct 26, Pasolini’s Salo Redubbed Sep 26 – Oct 5.

Taking place in Dublin’s Clery’s, Before is set on the last day of this iconic department store before it shuts for good. Pontius is inside, trying to choose a gift for his estranged daughter, whom he hasn’t seen for almost 20 years but will meet in an hour. Travelling from the isolation of his Midlands home to the madness of O’Connell Street, this father will learn some folk are impossible to buy for.

The Gate Theatre

The Beacon by Nancy Harris

This worldwide smash-hit jukebox musical by Queen and Ben Elton returns to Ireland. Guaranteed to blow your mind, it tells the story of a group of Bohemians who struggle to restore the free exchange of thought, fashion, and live music in a distant future where everyone dresses, thinks and acts the same. Since 2002 over 16 million theatregoers in 19 countries have been thrilled by this production, featuring 24 of Queen’s biggest hits. Dates: Oct 28 – Nov 2 Tel: 01 677 7999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie Also at the Bord Gais this month: Cabaret Oct 1 – 5, Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat Oct 8 – 12, Swan Lake Oct 22 – 26.

The Abbey Theatre Redemption Falls

A re-imagining of Joseph O’Connor’s novel of the same name, the Abbey Theatre describe Redemption Song as ‘a bleak and beautiful story, told through the folk music of Ireland and America.’ In, 1865, Eliza Duane Mooney, daughter of an Irish emigrant, walks across 10

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

The best-selling novel, the Oscarwinning film, and now the spine-tingling live production - the new stage adaptation of The Exorcist will travel from the West End to Dublin for the week of Halloween. Inspired by true events, the story centres on young girl Regan and her increasingly strange sickness. When the medical profession fails to provide answers, her desperate mother Chris turns to a local priest for help. But before Father Damien can tackle what’s before him, he must overcome his own shaken beliefs, as this fight is for more than just one girl’s soul. This new stage adaptation features the voice of Ian McKellen (Lord of the Rings, X-Men) as the Demon.

Also at the Gaiety this month: The Playboy of the Western World Sep 25 – Oct 5, Asking For It Oct 9 – 26 (see page 8).

Also at the Mermaid Arts Centre this month: BigKidLittleKid Oct 8 – 10, The Dig Oct 15

We Will Rock You

The Exorcist

Dates: Oct 29 – Nov 2 Tel: 0818 719 388 or visit www.gaietytheatre.ie

Dates: Oct 11 Tel: 01 272 4030 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie

Bord Gáis Energy Theatre

The Gaiety Theatre

Smock Alley Theatre In The Beacon, Beiv, a celebrated artist, has moved from suburban Dublin to her holiday cottage on an island off the coast of West Cork. But a dark shadow from the past hangs over her. When her estranged son and his new young wife arrive to stay, she is faced with some difficult questions.

Grey Matter

Dates: Oct 2 - 26 Tel 01 874 4045 or visit www.gatetheatre.ie Also at the Gate this month: Faultline Sep 26 – Dec 1, Pale Sister by Colm Toibin Oct 31 – Nov 9

The Olympia Theatre

Tina - What’s Love Got to Do with It?

What’s Love Got to Do with It? is a joyous new show celebrating the music of the incredible Tina Turner. Brought to audiences by the awardwinning producers behind the hugely successful Whitney - Queen of the Night, What’s Love Got to Do with It? is the ultimate tribute concert to one of the most iconic and loved musical artists of our generation. Dates: Oct 26 Tel: 01 679 3323 or visit www.olympia.ie

Professional dance company Ballet Project[d] presents two new and original works choreographed by Lauren Speirs at the Smock Alley Theatre this month. Made up of two smaller shows titled ‘Rational Creatures’ and ‘Ensnared’, organisers describe Grey Matter as ‘an abstract look at how our world shapes us’ and ‘an exploration of the grey area between negative and positive persuasion.’ Dates: Oct 24 - 26 Tel 01 677 0014 or visit www.smockalley.com Also at Smock Alley this month: Pike St. Oct 2 – 6, Burgerz Oct 9 – 12, New Fish A Musical Oct 15 – 19.

Dublin Castle by Pat Liddy

During the Middle Ages, the first thing conquerors did when they won a territory was to build a strong castle to defend their newly acquired land. From the late 12th century, when the Normans, and later the English, began their gradual annexation of Ireland they were no different. Castles, both large and small were thrown up all over Ireland with many still existing on the Irish landscape.

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

ublin Castle was begun in 1204 on the orders of Prince John of England to house a strong garrison to protect (from the native Irish, it must be said) the English king’s newly conquered capital of Ireland and to provide an impregnable site for the storage of the taxes taken from an unwilling population. The castle was built as a square-walled enclosure with four circular corner towers and a strongly fortified gateway. The walls of the towers were over four and a half metres thick (which can still be ascertained from the one surviving south-east bastion, known as the Record Tower). The first reaction that many visitors to Dublin Castle have today when they first enter through the gateway is a hint of puzzlement. After all, they came to see a castle so where is the castle? Well, if you are looking for a romantic medieval fortress you are nearly 340 years too late! You see, the original castle was substantially burnt to the ground after a near apocalyptic fire in 1684, I say a ‘near apocalyptic’ fire because, had it spread to the Gunpowder Tower, where it was rapidly heading, it would have not only shattered the whole castle but would have taken much of the old city with it. But instead, some quick-minded officials bravely removed part of the very gunpowder in the tower to demolish the structures connecting the tower with the burning sections of the castle and thus created a very effective fire break. The day was saved but not the castle. When the fire was extinguished nearly half of the buildings lay in ruins. This was a period in Dublin’s history when

urban regeneration was starting to take place to lift the city out of its cramped medieval past and so it was determined that a structure suitable for a noble viceroy and his staff would take the place of the former dank and dreary fortress. What they then constructed is the magnificent palace of today. The purpose of the original castle and its 18th century successor was to provide accommodation for the Viceroy, also known as the Lord Lieutenant, the British monarch’s representative in Ireland and essentially this country’s ruler. So for over seven hundred years Ireland was governed on behalf of Britain from Dublin Castle. When the 26 counties of Ireland achieved independence in 1922 (the remaining 6 counties of the Province of Ulster becoming Northern Ireland) Dublin Castle was handed over to the new Irish Free State. Now Dublin Castle is a State-run complex. When Ireland hosts the presidency of the European Union for six months (which currently happens every 14 years) the primary location for the ensuing EU meetings is Dublin Castle (you can see the 28 ﬂagpoles, one for each EU nation in the Upper Courtyard). If you have the time a guided visit around the castle is a must. You will see the State Apartments which were once the gloriously appointed 18th and 19th century rooms occupied by the Viceroy, his family, his staff and, indeed, sometimes by the reigning British monarch. You will be taken to the Throne Room, the Drawing and Dining Rooms, the bedrooms and St Patrick’s Hall, the outstanding ballroom. Today this room is used for the inauguration ceremony for

every newly elected Irish President. Note that the carpet here is blue, which is the official state colour of Ireland, not green as most people imagine. The guided tour also visits the Chapel Royal, once the church set aside for the household and staff of the castle. What comes as a surprise here is that the evident stone pillars and vaulted ceilings in the chapel, while appearing to be made of stone, are actually constructed from wood. This is to lessen the overall weight of the chapel as it stands over the culverted

medieval moat of the castle. To cap the tour participants are taken underground to view uncovered parts of the ancient castle which lie about 6 to 7 metres below present surface levels. Revealed are the base of the Gunpowder Tower, a narrow postern gate, some of the original Viking wall and part of the stone City Wall which once crossed the moat. Water from the moat is allowed to enter part of this subterranean undercroft and the whole scene is highly atmospheric. The circular gardens on the south side

of the castle provide the helipad for the castle. But a thousand years ago this was a site for a small lake. Here the Vikings once parked their longboats. The lake in the Irish language was called the Dubh Linn or Dark Pool, which gave rise to the city’s modern name; Dublin! Today, visitors can simply wander around the courtyards and gardens or take the official tour. www.heritageireland.ie/en/dublin/ dublincastle

dodublintours

TED VO

Whether you want to sit back and soak up the culture at Dublin’s historic sites or get out there and explore the streets, meet the people and sample the Guinness, our guides can help you make the most of your holiday and see the city like a local.

Dublin’s No.1 Bus Tour A D VIS

FREE Kids FREE Hotel Shuttle FREE Walking Tour FREE Little Museum of Dublin

Book a Tour

The Dubliner’s Guide to Dublin

Book online dodublin.ie

Buy in person at Dublin Bus Head Office 59 Upper O’Connell St, Dublin 1 Hop on and pay driver

dodublin.ie OCTOBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

The Abbey Theatre’s

Cool Winter Programme

The Abbey Theatre have announced two productions set to delight audiences this Winter season – Drama at Inish and A Very Old Man with Enormous Wings. The first is a major new Abbey production of Lennox Robinson’s play, which first premiered at the theatre in 1933. Running from November 21 until January 25, this new staging takes the acclaimed farce and transplants it into 1960’s Ireland. The story follows the inhabitants of a small seaside town in Ireland. Inish has never been on the map but it has been making headlines lately, and for all the wrong reasons. Could the performances of the newly arrived De la Mare Repertory Theatre Company really be the cause of the town’s strange behaviour? The show features some of Ireland’s best loved actors. These include Nick Dunning, Breffni Holahan, Marcus Lamb, Aoibhinn McGinnity, Anthony Moriarty, Helen Norton, Marion O’Dwyer, and Mark O’Regan. It is to be helmed by Belfast-born director Cal McCrystal in his Abbey Theatre debut. McCrystal is the acclaimed comedy director for the National Theatre’s West End

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

and Broadway hit show One Man, Two Guvnors. He also directs productions for English National Opera, Gifford’s Circus and large-scale cabaret shows in Las Vegas. On top of this, he has created comedy sequences for Cirque du Soleil and for various films including Paddington, Paddington 2, The Amazing Spider-Man 2 and the forthcoming film adaptation of Cats. Joining up behind-the-scenes is a strong line-up of leading Irish creative talent including Sarah Bacon (Set and Costume), Sinead McKenna (Lighting Design) and Carl Kennedy (Sound Design). Graham McLaren and Neil Murray, directors of the Abbey Theatre, said in a statement of Drama at Inish: “The renowned literary tradition of the Abbey Theatre is a symbol of Ireland’s strength within the performing arts and on the world stage. For the past two years we have paid homage to the Irish canon with productions such as Teresa Deevy’s Katie Roche and Marina Carr’s On Raftery’s Hill.”

“This winter, we’re delivering the work of another master Irish playwright with a new production of Drama at Inish, Lennox Robinson’s hysterical riot that proves its endurance across the decades. We invite audiences to see some of Ireland’s finest comedic actors perform in this unique Abbey Theatre collaboration with the brilliant comedic director Cal McCrystal.” On the Peacock Stage, the Abbey Theatre presents A Very Old Man with Enormous Wings. This recently premiered at Dublin Fringe Festival to a rapturous audience and critical reaction, winning the festival’s award for Best Design. In a kitchen, in a theatre, two storytellers and their audience ﬁnd something remarkable — a very old man with enormous wings. The wise neighbour woman tells us he’s an angel. The priest says he’s an imposter. Pilgrims ﬂock to see him, hoping to be healed by him, hoping for a gawp. They leave with something different than what they expected. Adapted from Gabriel García Márquez’s tale of the same name, Collapsing Horse,

one of Ireland’s most exciting theatre companies, brings a classic piece of magical realism to the stage in search of its beautiful, strange, emotional richness. Running from December 10 - 28, this production is one for the family to enjoy and is suitable for ages 8+. McLaren and Murray added: “Showcasing bold new creative voices and local performers is key to the mission of the Abbey Theatre, and this presentation of A Very Old Man with Enormous Wings is a thrilling example of the fresh and exciting talent within Irish theatre.” “This show will captivate Abbey audiences, building further upon its recent successes at the 2019 Dublin Fringe Festival. It made a huge impression on us and we were keen to extend its reach as quickly as possible. We hope to see both young and old(er) theatre lovers join us for what will be a highlight of our winter season.” To book tickets to these shows, visit abbeytheatre.ie or call 01 87 87 222.

OCTOBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Dublin Theatre Festival’s

Jam-Packed Programme

Dublin Theatre Festival continues this month with exceptional Irish and international work being performed across the capital until October 13. In terms of homegrown shows, one highlight is a new take on JM Synge’s controversial masterpiece The Playboy of the Western World in the Gaiety (from Sep 24). The classic play tells the story of Christy Mahon, a young man who runs away from his farm, claiming he killed his father. The Abbey Theatre will present the world premiere of a new work by Dermot Bolger. Titled Last Orders at the Dockside, it centres around a reunion of dockers (from Sep 26). Also at the venue from Oct 9 is Redemption Falls, an adaptation of a Joseph O’Connor novel. Hecuba, by Marina Carr, will have its Irish premiere in the Projects Arts Centre (from Sep 25). The play is a passionate re-imaging of the aftermath of the Trojan War. Meanwhile, The Alternative by Michael Patrick and Oisín Kearney (being performed at Draiocht from Oct 4) asks: what if Ireland was still part of the UK? Coming to the Gate from Oct 2 is the world premiere of The Beacon, a new play from Nancy Harris. Beiv, a celebrated artist, has moved to a holiday cottage on an island off the coast of West Cork. But a dark shadow from the past hangs over her. Following his acclaimed re-imagining of the

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

famous ballet, Swan Lake/Loch na hEala, Michael Keegan Dolan and Tea� Da�sa return with the world premiere of a new mythic yet timely production – Mám. It brings together concertina player Cormac Begley, the European classical contemporary collective Stargaze and 12 international dancers at O’Reilly Theatre (from Sep 25). Actor, musician and now writer Ray Scannell will debut The Bluffer’s Guide to Suburbia at the Project Arts Centre (from Sep 26). A new apocalyptic black comedy with live music and original songs, the show lovingly exposes a generation of adult children struggling to fit into the nuclear family ideal and trying to make art in the face of rental crises and global catastrophe. There’s also a host of noteworthy shows coming from overseas. After someone threw a burger at them and shouted a transphobic slur, performance artist Travis Alabanza became obsessed with the food. One of the UK’s most prominent trans voices, Alabanza presents a performance in Burgerz (from Oct 9) at Smock Alley that festival organisers say is timely, unsettling and powerful. Following sell-out runs at Edinburgh Festival Fringe and London’s National Theatre, Us/ Them comes to the Pavilion Theatre from Oct 8. Organisers say the show is a thrilling piece of theatre which retells, from the perspective of a child, three days when 1,200

people were held hostage by terrorists in Beslan, Russia. Portuguese show Sopro tells the story of a prompter at a theatre. After 40 years, she reluctantly steps out of the shadows and shares stories from her decades of working. The play comes to the O’Reilly Theatre from Oct 11. Booking for festival shows can be done online at dublintheatrefestival.ie, over the phone at +353 1 677 8899 and in person at the DTF box office. The latter is located at Festival House on 12 Essex Street East, Temple Bar, Dublin 2.

Explore Leinster

The Chester Beatty Library

The War Memorial Gardens When you are visiting IMMA in Kilmainham, you should walk on over to Islandbridge about half a kilometer further on. The gardens there are dedicated to the memory of the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in the 1st World War. The names of all the soldiers are contained in the beautifully illustrated Harry Clarke manuscripts in the granite bookrooms in the gardens. Not merely a place of remembrance, they are also of great architectural interest and beauty. They are one of only four gardens in this country designed by the famous architect Sir Edwin Lutyens (1869-1944). The others being Heywood Gardens, Lambay Island and those in Howth Castle. The sunken rose gardens, herbaceous borders and extensive tree planting on view here make it well worth that extra bit of a walk. Open all year round. Tel: 01 475 7816

Glasnevin Cemetery Museum & Guided Tours Located 2.5km from Dublin city centre, Glasnevin Cemetery is one of Ireland’s most popular attractions - a breathtakingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery where over 1.6 million are buried. Guides are passionate about sharing their love of history and recount the stories of Ireland’s fascinating past through daily walking tours, resulting in history lessons made fun and memorable by professionals who know their stuff. Awarded TripAdvisor’s Travellers’ Choice Award 2018, Glasnevin is a cemetery of historic importance. Museum, genealogy, gift shop and café on site. Open daily for guided tours, re-enactments and the O’Connell tower. museum@glasnevintrust.ie (01) 882 6550 www.glasnevinmuseum.ie

Pat Liddy Walking Tours of Dublin

If you really want to get to know the city, then walking around with an entertaining and professional guide is the best way to discover its history and hidden treasures. Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade. The tours are described as entertaining and full of history. Even for someone who lives in Dublin, the tours surprises with loads of hidden facts. You can choose from a wide range of scheduled tours (all year round), including three brand new tours designed to get you off the beaten path. Docklands – The New Old Dublin, Hidden Gems of the Northside and The Tempting Whiskey Trail around the historic Liberties. Private tours can be arranged at any time geared to the topic of your choice. Tours are offered in main European languages. Find Out More Book at: www.walkingtours.ie Contact: Info@walkingtours.ie or 00353 10832 9406

The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world. Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3pm and 4pm. Opening hours: 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat 11am-5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm. Tel: 01 407 0750

The National Museum of Ireland

Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance. Tel: 01 453 5984

The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. With three locations in Dublin covering Archaeology, Natural History, Decorative Arts & History, and one location in Mayo covering Country Life, you can lose yourself for hours in the many exhibitions. Free admission Tel +353 (0) 1 677 7444 www.museum.ie

Baggot Street welcomes a beautiful modern Italian restaurant! Open for lunch from 12pm to 3pm, Dinner 5pm 'til late, Mon- Sat www.cirillos.ie

Phone | +353 1 676 6848 Location | No. 140, Baggot St., Dublin 2 18

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

A TASTER OF DUBLIN’S NEW WINTER FOOD FEST Taste of Dublin: Festive Edition is coming to the RDS this November 28 to December 1 and is gearing up to be Ireland’s ultimate winter food festival.

he four-day event is brought to foodies by the team behind the popular Taste of Dublin summer festival that has taken place in the capital for the past 14 years. The latter has played a vital role in progressing Dublin’s food revolution, showcasing the range of eclectic restaurants, producers and chefs that make up the city’s vibrant culinary scene. Building on their summer successes, Taste of Dublin are now launching their very own festive edition here which has run in London for many years. The new event will be a winter celebration of food, entertainment and so much more. The RDS Main Hall, Industry and Serpentine in Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 will be transformed into an indoor feast for the senses. Visitors can soak up the gourmet atmosphere, celebrate the season and

explore the latest food trends in a stylish and cosy setting. 15 of Ireland’s top restaurants and food experiences and 30 amazing chefs will be transported to this winter wonderland. Together they will serve up a selection of over 50 dishes to choose from. A packed line up of festive cooking and baking demos; hands-on masterclasses and workshops; food and drink sampling; and live entertainment also make this an event not to be missed. Organisers say the festival is the perfect way to kick off the festive season, providing an opportunity to be indulged, inspired and entertained by all things food. Book tickets now at Taste of Dublin’s website www.tasteofdublin.ie. You can follow the event on Facebook @TasteofDub, on Instagram @tasteofdublin_ and on Twitter @TasteDublin.

OCTOBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Corfu Greek Restaurant

Corfu Greek Restaurant is a hidden gem situated on Parliament Street. Here, the friendly and attentive staff will serve you some of the finest Greek food at incredibly reasonable prices. Choose from a range of starters, such as calamari and dolmadakia, and then tuck into some delicious traditional Greek main courses, including moussaka, kleftiko and stifado, all washed down with a nice glass of wine from their varied wine list. 12 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 0050

Le Bon Crubeen

Silken Thomas

Silken Thomas is a family operated business, established for over 40 years. Focussed on giving that warm Irish welcome, Silken Thomas has a proven record in quality and service. Silken Thomas is where you can eat, drink, dance and sleep. Silken Thomas brings to you the traditional Irish Pub Lils, the more sports-orientated Squires and the contemporary Flanagan’s Lounge. For whatever occasion you are celebrating or a place to simply relax for a drink, Silken Thomas is the choice for you. The Square Kildare Town Co. Kildare +353 (0) 45 522232 info@silkenthomas.com

Camden Kitchen This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin, with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It has won Best Value Restaurant Dublin in the Dubliner, Best Pre-Theatre listing in Hot Press and Best Casual Dining in the Restaurant Awards Value and Quality.

Peploe’s

Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park. 16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com

Cliff Townhouse

Fine dining in Dublin city centre with seafood focused menus, including the innovative Afternoon Sea. The Cliff Townhouse restaurant serves brilliantly executed Dublin classics, menus are equally suited to a threecourse celebration or a light bite in the middle of the day. Staples include generous salads, eggs Benedict, Galway oysters, Irish lobsters, dressed Yawl Bay crabs, wild sea trout and 10oz Hereford rib eye steaks. 22 St Stephen's Green, Dublin 2 +35316383939 info@clifftownhouse.ie

81-2 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 0126 www.leboncrubeen.ie

Mexico to Rome

Zaytoon

Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.

A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff.

14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 3595 www.zaytoon.ie

3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 476 0125 www.camdenkitchen.ie

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value. 23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Kafka Restaurant

Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value. They serve lunch, brunch and dinner, offering a fresh healthy menu of delights including Spinach and Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Tiger Prawn Risotto and as they’re just a short walk from the City Centre, it’s the perfect place to start your night out. 236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6 01 497 7057 www.kafka.ie

ASADOR

Café Topolis

The Left Bank Bistro is 23 years in business, a true testament to its popularity. This modern restaurant is situated in the heart of Old Athlone, a stone's throw from the Athlone Lock on the River Shannon with views of the Norman Castle and its ancient architecture. The food is exciting and innovative. You can savour fresh fish and dishes such as beef carpaccio, chicken satay and an array of decadent, delicious desserts. Fry Place, High St, Athlone, Co. Westmeath Call (090) 649 4446 Email: info@leftbankbistro.com Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.

ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food. 1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4. Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie

La Ruelle Wine Bar

37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961

Cirillo’s

‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’. ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food.

The Left Bank Bistro

Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers. Perfect for the festive season or any events. 3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie

Salamanca

Cirillo’s have gone to great lengths to ensure that their customers enjoy an authentic Italian meal. All of their pizzas are made to the traditional Vera Pizza Napoletana standards, using San Marzano tomatoes, 00 flour and fresh mozzarella all finished in a wood fire oven that they imported from Naples. All of their pasta, bread, pizza dough and ice creams are made in-house every day and they offer a wide variety of Italian wines, craft beers and aperitifs that beautifully compliment their seriously tasty meals.

Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City.

140 Baggot Street, Dublin 2 +353 1 6766848 www.cirillos.ie

1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie OCTOBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Bars in Leinster

The Duke

Ideally situated close to Grafton Street, this old watering hole has been providing liquid refreshment and sustenance to the people of Dublin since 1822. They have a great selection of craft beers, whiskeys and gins for you to try, along with amazing food. The Duke is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of busy Grafton Street. 9 Duke St, Dublin 2 016799553

Sin Ă&#x2030;

Sin Ă&#x2030; on Ormond Quay is Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s original late night alternative music venue. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for, Sin Ă&#x2030; caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for a great atmosphere and some of the best musicians in Dublin then Sin Ă&#x2030; is

Ç§ definitely the place to be. Ä&#x2020;Ä&#x17E;ÇŚ Ä&#x17D;Ä&#x2019;Ä&#x160; Ä&#x160;Ä&#x161;Ä&#x201C; Ä&#x2039;Ä&#x2014;Ä&#x201D;Ä&#x2019; Í&#x2022;Í&#x2013; Ä&#x201C;Ä&#x201D;Ä&#x201D;Ä&#x201C;

Dingle Whiskey Bar

The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. And every strolling14 into-15 theOrmond celt is likeQuay taking a trip to the west, play boys and Tuesday they host a Whiskey Tasting Class from chailĂnĂ payfor attention and& dance along the way to the early light Tel: 01 555 4036 01 555 4037 7pm with whiskey guru FionnĂĄn Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Connor. www.sin-e.ie Learn everything you ever wanted to know about Í&#x153;Í&#x2022;ÇŚÍ&#x153;Í&#x2013; Â&#x2013;Â&#x192;Â&#x17D;Â&#x201E;Â&#x2018;Â&#x2013; Â&#x2022;Â&#x2013;Â&#x201D;Â&#x2021;Â&#x2021;Â&#x2013;ÇĄ Â&#x2020;Â&#x2014;Â&#x201E;Â&#x17D;Â&#x2039;Â? Â&#x2026;Â&#x2039;Â&#x2013;Â&#x203A; Â&#x2026;Â&#x2021;Â?Â&#x2013;Â&#x201D;Â&#x2021; the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey. Â&#x2122;Â&#x2122;Â&#x2122;Ç¤Â&#x2013;Â&#x160;Â&#x2021;Â&#x2026;Â&#x2021;Â&#x17D;Â&#x2013;Ç¤Â&#x2039;Â&#x2021; Â&#x2013;Â&#x2021;Â&#x17D;ÇŁ Í&#x201D;Í&#x2022; Í&#x153;Í&#x203A;Í&#x153; Í&#x153;Í&#x161;Í&#x2122;Í&#x2122; Tickets available at the bar for â&#x201A;Ź18.

the celt

Groganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

44 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 677 4810 www.theporterhouse.ie

This is the regular hang-out for Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming. 15 S William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 9320

The Confession Box JT Pimâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

The Celt

Located in the heart of the Dame District, JT Pimâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is styled as a local bar in the city centre. They offer quality drinks in comfortable surrounds. From local craft beers such as the 5 Lamps and Galway Hooker ranges, to fine wines and signature cocktails such as their twist on the classic Old Fashioned, they have all tastes covered. Their bartenders are happy to take requests and guide you through the list. Relax in their bespoke armchairs or leather couches, or when the sun is shining, soak up the atmosphere in Dame Court.

Situated on Talbot Street in the heart of Dublin, The Celt Bar is always thronged with locals and visitors thanks to the authentic Irish experience that is on offer there. Visitors can sample the finest Irish whiskeys, beers, ales and stouts and enjoy live traditional music seven nights a week. The Celt also offer traditional Irish food seven days a week. The classic bar menu includes beer battered haddock and traditional beef and Guinness stew. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no better place to go to for the full Irish experience than The Celt Bar.

4 South Great Georgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Street, Dublin 2Â Â (01) 672 4645

81 Talbot St, Dublin Tel: 01 878 8655 www.thecelt.ie

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

One of the smallest bars in Dublin, The Confession Box is situated in the heart of Dublin City near the Spire. During the War of Independence rebel volunteers sought refuge here and received the sacraments from local sympathetic clergy. Recently, this iconic part of Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history was renovated. Now run by the capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s friendliest bar staff, the spot offers great live music from Thursday to Sunday, as well as coverage of major TV sports events. Catering to all tastes, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no surprise The Confession Box has picked up much deserved awards. 88 Marlborough St, Dublin 1. 01 828 0028

Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.

Cork at night

Lismore Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes. County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles Reginald’s Tower

you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy. One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and

there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’ and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.

Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Munster Room Restaurant

The Lobster Bar and Restaurant

options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City. Open Monday - Saturday 5.30pm until late (Open Bank Holiday Sundays) 2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie

The Smuggler’s Inn The 2-AA Rosette Munster Room Restaurant is located on the idyllic private island of Waterford Castle Hotel and Golf Resort. The Island is just minutes by car from Waterford city centre and accessible by complimentary Resort ferry. The Castle culinary team work passionately to create dishes with sublime flavour using high quality produce sourced from local suppliers, the kitchen’s vegetable patch and by foraging for what grows naturally on the 310-acre Island. The menu changes seasonally so guests can always savour the freshest ingredients. The Munster Room Restaurant’s oak-panelled walls, Waterford Crystal chandeliers and ornate ceilings match the luxurious surroundings of the 16th Century Castle hotel. Home to a fine Irish whiskey collection, an impressive wine cellar and signature cocktails, the elegant Fitzgerald Room bar is perfect for an aperitif or post-dinner drink. During the day, the Castle serves Afternoon Tea in the bright conservatory overlooking the lawns, with homemade pastries and desserts prepared by dedicated pastry chefs. The restaurant and hotel have made the lists for both McKennas’ Guides 100 Best Places to Stay 2019 and 101 Great Irish Restaurants 2019. They have also won Luxury Hotel of the Year 2019 and Munster Fine Dining Hotel of the Year 2019. Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort The Island, Ballinakill, Co Waterford X91 Y722 info@waterfordcastleresort.com 00353 (0)51 878 203 www.waterfordcastleresort.com

The Strand Inn

Delicious food and friendly service are what makes The Lobster a must visit on the Ring of Kerry. Established over 60 years ago, it’s a family run business steeped in history. On the front of the restaurant is a giant lobster holding a pint of Guinness which can’t be missed. Inside a warm welcome, a relaxing atmosphere and award-winning food awaits. The restaurant prides itself on its seafood, with whole poached lobster, beetroot cured salmon, local mussels and seafood chowder some of their signature dishes. Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 947 4629 www.thelobsterwaterville.com

Out of the Blue

Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330, www.thesmugglersinn.ie

Momo They serve only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment. Dingle Harbour. Tel: 066 915 0811

La Boheme

Overlooking Hook Head, The Strand Inn is the perfect place to enjoy lingering breakfasts, relax over a long lunch or enjoy intimate, romantic suppers. Diners can look forward to the finest Irish beef, lobster and line caught seafood in a luxurious setting, characterised by beamed ceilings, original stone walls and planked floors. Dunmore East, Co.Waterford. Tel: 051 383 174 www.thestrandinn.com 26

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

This ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. It’s not hard to see why as the Chef/Proprietor, Henry Hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. Panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience. For total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms.

La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu

Momo is a multi-award-winning restaurant in Waterford City, Ireland. They pride themselves on their fresh and healthy menu featuring ingredients from the local food producers of Waterford County. You will enjoy a wide range of international dishes including lots of vegetarian/vegan options as well as delicious meat and fish dishes. Momo featured in the McKennas’ Guides Top 100 Restaurants in Ireland 2018, 2017 and 2016, and won ‘Best Casual Dining’ in Munster at the Irish Restaurant Awards 2017. 47 Patrick Street, Waterford, Ireland. Call (051) 581 509 kamila@momorestaurant.ie

A Decade of Dancing

•

Tipperary Dance Festival Returns

ith the theme Dance & Tradition, Dance & Community the 10th edition of the Tipperary Dance Platform (TDP) International Dance Festival will return from Monday, October 7 to Sunday, October 13. The event will take place in venues throughout the county. Organisers describe it as ‘an energetic yet subtle mix of discovery, artistic relevance, networks of support, and the kind of loyalty that builds over time amongst artists and partners who are trying to achieve similar goals.’ In October 2010, Spanish choreographer and dancer Roberto Torres was the first guest artist to perform at the festival. Since then, dozens and dozens of dancers, choreographers and film makers have performed or shown their work at TDP. This year, though, Torres returns for the 2019 festival to present ‘Una Vez Mas’, described as a delicate, bittersweet, and humorous piece depicting the relationship of an ageing couple.

Performed by Torres and Carmen Werner on Thursday, October 10 in The Source Arts Centre in Thurles, the guest will also on the same day conduct a masterclass in the Excel Arts Centre. Other international guests expected at this year’s festival include choreographer Karine Ponties, founder of the Belgium Dance Company Dame de Pic, Greek choreographer Polina Kremasta, Portuguese dancer and choreographer Tania Carvalho and French

choreographer Marie Lenfant. Audiences are invited to enjoy the wide range of performances, exhibitions, live installations and masterclasses in a programme that will take place in venues, galleries, libraries and cinemas in Tipperary, Cashel, Clonmel, Lisvernane, Thurles and Nenagh. For more information about the TDP International Dance Festival and to view the full programme, visit the event’s website at www.tdp-danceplatform.ie.

OCTOBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Bars in Munster

Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder, Irish Whiskey Experience

Dick Mack’s

Developed by whiskey lovers as a first class destination for whiskey enthusiasts and novices alike. Guests will be amazed by shelf upon shelf of Irish, Scottish & international whiskies and a wide variety of Irish craft gin & vodka, craft beer and cider, eclectic wine list, and creative cocktail menu. Fresh, locally sourced food served daily. Irish Whiskey Experience offers the chance to discover more about the history, production & renaissance of Irish whiskey, with 10 masterclasses to choose from, running every day. 93 New Street Killarney, Co. Kerry Tel: +353646635700 www.celticwhiskeybar.com www.irishwhiskeyexperience.net

The Roaring Donkey

Perched up on “Top of The Hill” the Roaring Donkey is Cobh’s oldest traditional pub. Still original and oozing charm and authenticity the pub has been operating since 1880. It is known locally as the rugby pub but they do their best to accommodate most sports. A traditional music session has been running for nearly 40 years and is on every Wednesday night. Great craic guaranteed or enjoy a quiet pint in one of the finest beer gardens in town. The Roaring Donkey Tiknock, Cobh, Co. Cork Phone: (021) 481 1739

The Friary

Located by the river on the corner of Cork’s historic Shandon Street and North Mall, The Friary is a unique combination of old, new and eccentric. It's a homely craft beer bar with delicious gins and tonics. Look out for its astonishing range of special events; music, art, quizzes, the famous Drunk Spelling Bee, weird films, Penguin parties (really) and more! 62 Shandon St, Cork Tel: 087 668 0941

The Bierhaus

There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers. Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648 Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub. Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry Tel: 066 915 1960

Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant

Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May. 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1)

The Original Durty Nelly’s

Durty Nelly’s can truly be described as one of Ireland’s landmark pubs. Nestling in the shadow of the magnificent Bunratty Castle, it is the first stopping off point for generations of visitors to Ireland arriving at nearby Shannon Airport. Apart from the warm Irish welcome that you’ll find at Nelly’s, you’ll also enjoy the finest, freshest local produce – whether you’re just dropping in for a snack or staying for a fine dining experience. The Original Durty Nelly's Bunratty West, Bunratty, Co. Clare +353 61 364 861 info@durtynellys.ie

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

An Unmissable Experience! Cobh, The Queenstown Story An informative and emotive story of Irish emigration. Learn about Cobhâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s connection with Titanic and the Lusitania. Cobh Heritage Centre, Cobh, Co. Cork, Ireland. Open 7 days 9.30 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 5.30 (Sundays 11am) Tel 353 (21) 4 813591 Find Cobh the Queenstown Story on Facebook 237664_Cobh Heritage_AC_SCIT.indd 1

Email: info@cobhheritage.com Web: www.cobhheritage.com 01/12/2015 14:08

Take the spirit of Ireland home with you Explore The Loop at Dublin Airport where you will find premium brands at low prices. Discover the true taste of Ireland and visit The Irish Whiskey Collection, home to 125 different types of Irish whiskeys. Our superb range offers signature names, unique collectable items and is the perfect way to bring a taste of Ireland home with you.

shop online at theloop.ie

22569_LOOP_WHISKEY_210X150.indd 1

19/08/2014 17:28

Cobh Heritage Centre

The Queenstown Story

he exhibition at Cobh Heritage Centre, known as The Queenstown Story, is inventively situated within Cobh’s restored Victorian railway station, a building with its own historic story. The Queenstown Story will engage the visitor in a journey through time, recalling Irish emigration with real stories about real people. From the indentured servants of Virginia and the West Indies plantations in the 17th century, the early settlers in upper Canada, the famine victims of the 1840s to the large-scale emigration of the 19th and 20th centuries. The visitor will also discover the hardships endured by the convicts who were transported to Australia. The present town of Cobh has its origins as a small village nestled in the hillside on the southern shores. The village was known as Cove, being situated in the cove, or harbour, of Cork. The town did not begin to grow until the early nineteenth century, but its strategic importance was realised in the late eighteenth century during the American War of Independence. Vital shiploads of troops and supplies were needed by the British forces fighting in America between 1775 and

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

1781. The entry of France into the war in 1778 heightened the danger of these ships being attacked at sea. This large and safe harbour provided ideal conditions in which the ships could assemble and be protected. The wars against France from the 1790s to 1815 were to prove the catalyst which led to the future prosperity of the town as Cove and its harbour played an important role in this war at sea. Cove went on to become a major port with both naval and merchant shipping and was one of the major ports of emigration.

Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events. The exhibition is a self-guided tour with audio tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Dutch, Polish and Chinese. It is not just interesting and educational, but very emotive and thought-provoking. “Take a glimpse into our storied past and walk in the footsteps of our emigrant ancestors”.

Explore Munster

The Hunt Museum Cliffs of Moher Loop Head Lighthouse This popular tourist attraction is located at the mouth of the Shannon Estuary on the Loop Head Peninsula, which is one of two “Signature Discovery Points” in County Clare along the route of the Wild Atlantic Way. It also is a landmark location on the Loop Head Heritage Trail and is one of 12 Great Lighthouses of Ireland. The lighthouse is steeped in history and rich in maritime heritage with its origins dating back to the 1670s. The existing tower style lighthouse was constructed in 1854 and was operated and maintained by a keeper who lived within the lighthouse compound. In January 1991, the lighthouse was converted to automatic operation, and today is monitored by the CIL.Open daily (10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.) until 5 November.

The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Bunratty Castle

Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com

Titanic Experience Cobh

The Burren

Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.

Blarney Castle

The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again.

Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912. The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.

Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.

www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie

Tel: 021 438 5252 OCTOBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

s i r r a H d r a h c i R l a iv t s e F m il F l a n Internatio to Celebrate 7th year

he Richard Harris International Film Festival (RHIFF) is returning to Limerick from October 22 - 28 for its seventh year with its biggest and most expansive programme yet. The event will take place in multiple locations across Limerick city and county. Organisers announced the highlights of its 2019 programme in June during the launch of the Global Irish Festival Series in the Irish Consulate in New York. The Global Festival Series runs along the Wild Atlantic Way in October, incorporating other festivals, iNY in Limerick and Donegal Connect. Speaking about RHIFF, festival director Zeb Moore said in a statement: “From humble beginnings in 2013, when we screened 10 films to screening 150 films last year, the festival continues to grow. We are the only festival to have a live script read of a feature in development. Our awards night will also be the only formal black-tie awards night for the Irish film industry to take place this year.” The latter is happening in the Millennium Theatre,

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

LIT on October 27. The festival will have a strong line-up of World, European and Irish premieres. As always, the Richard Harris retrospective will feature prominently. In this year’s selection is a screening of 1996 Irish crimedrama Trojan Eddie starring Stephen Rea, alongside the legendary Harris. Among many highlights in this year’s

festival is the world premiere of Brian Reddin’s documentary on Richard Harris, followed by a Q&A with the director and documentary participants. The film features Jim Sheridan, Tom Berenger, Robert Duvall among many others. There will also be a world premiere of Terry McMahon’s Prizefighter - a searing documentary on the life of Middleweight

boxing contender ‘Spike’ O’Sullivan. The screening will be followed by a Q&A with the director and subject. Other premieres will be announced closer to the time of the event. As always, stars from the big screen are expected to descend on Limerick. The 2019 programme will also see the launch of the iMET (Interactive Media Entertainment Technology) Summit by Emerald Giant Productions - the people behind RHIFF. Running October 22 – 23, iMET is a new stand-alone media technology event that will precede the Harris festival, exploring disruption in the industry. This year, the theme will be ‘The Post-Truth World’. The event will feature a screening of the documentary Belling-Cat: Truth in a Post-Truth World. iMET will also include exciting and innovative VR/AR experiences, in association with a number of Ireland’s leading virtual reality content providers and creators. Examples include VR recreations of the Apollo 11 Lunar landing and WWII air-raids from Immersive VR Education and Simmotion. Festival chair Rob Gill said in a statement: “iMET is part of our efforts to remain innovative and offer visitors to the city - both industry people and consumers another exciting experience. We work to position Limerick as a tech hub and premier destination for investment and business tourism.” Another highlight at RHIFF is the screening of animation studio Brown Bag’s documentary on the making of their 2017

Netflix short film Angela’s Christmas. The showing will be followed by a Q&A with star Malachy McCourt and director Damien O’Connor on Tuesday, October 22. This will kick off the week of cinematic and tech events, giving audiences a great insight into the creative process behind animation. RHIFF wouldn’t be the same without its famous afterparties. The modern speakeasy cocktail bar 101 is the festival after-party hub. It will offer a great opportunity for attendees to network, unwind and meet stars from the silver screen. One of the fastestgrowing film festivals in Europe, RHIFF was launched to encourage the Irish filmmaking community to showcase their work and to honour Ireland’s first Hollywood leading man Richard Harris. The actor rose to prominence in the 1960s and in a career spanning over four decades starred in acclaimed films Red Dessert, Camelot, The Field, Patriot Games, Unforgiven and Gladiator. He also played Albus Dumbledore

in the Harry Potter franchise before his death in 2002. For more information about the festival, visit its website at www.richardharrisfilmfestival.com

OCTOBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

A Corker of a Jazz Festival Guinness has launched the full programme of events for the 42nd Guinness Cork Jazz Festival, which takes place over the bank holiday weekend from October 24 – 28. The Guinness Cork Jazz Festival is one of the biggest and longest running events on the Irish music calendar. Every nook and cranny of Cork City will come alive across the weekend to the sounds of over 1,000 musicians and creative artists from more than 20 countries. This year’s festival will host a fantastic array of top international headline jazz acts. Friday will see British soul queen and platinum selling artist Mica Paris singing Ella Fitzgerald at The Everyman. Meanwhile, over at the Cork Opera House, there will be gigs from Booka Brass Band, Ireland’s first New Orleans style brass band; prize-winning saxophonist and composer Paul Booth; and celebration of Brazilian music Tudo Bem. On Saturday, there will be the Big Brass Band Explosion at The Everyman. Three amazing brass bands - The OhnO! Jazzband, Hyde Park Brass, and Les FanFlures - will play back to back in a gig guaranteed to knock your socks off. Later in the day, 14-time Grammy nominee Kurt Elling will pay tribute to jazz 34

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

legends in Cork City Hall, while American jazz fusion band Spyro Gyra will perform at The Everyman and renowned ECM artist John Surman will play a special concert alongside pianist Vigleik Storaas at Triskel Christchurch. Sunday will see Northern Ireland’s famous trumpeter Linley Hamilton perform at The Everyman, as the Arielle Besson, Sebastian Sternal & Jonas Bergwinkel Trio grace the Triskel Arts Centre stage. Following these gigs, Motown diva and Grammy Hall of Famer, Martha Reeves and The Vandellas - listed among Rolling Stone magazine’s “100 Immortal Artists” – will gift Cork City Hall with her presence. At the same time, 14-time Grammy nominee and 2018 Jazz Pianist of the Year Fred Hersh will play The Everyman. There’s also a great line up at the Metropole Festival Club, where a host of fresh new international talents will perform from the UK, France, Canada and Ireland. Entry is just €30 per person and will give you access to the entire hotel with jazz acts in four rooms including New York Brass, Pixie & The Gypsies, NC Grey and the Hyde Park Brass Band. The Metropole is also hosting a Jazz

Platinum VIP Lounge this year. There you can experience smooth purist jazz in an intimate setting with champagne and charcuterie boards, tapas and oysters for €75 per person. This year, there will also be the Blaze of Jazz Parade, which will kick off the weekend on Friday, 24 in spectacular ‘flare’. This family-friendly parade will feature a mix of red-hot jazz bands with fiery Cork characters in a dramatic musical march full of flaming antics. Other highlights include the Jazz Jamboree, Jazz Food Fair, and The Artistry of Frank Sinatra audio-visual event with more to be announced soon. On top of all this, there will be an exciting fringe programme of free gigs and entertainment in over 70 venues across the city. Also, to mark ECM record label’s 50th anniversary, Triskel Arts Centre has curated a weekend of concerts and cinema during the festival. At this year’s programme launch event, Councillor John Sheehan, Lord Mayor of Cork, welcomed the continued support of local businesses in 2019, “The Guinness Cork Jazz Festival attracts more than 40,000 people to Cork annually and is worth millions to the local economy. Its continued success is a testament

to the fantastic team ethos that has evolved over the years between Guinness, the festival committee, local government and the local business community. I wish it every success once again in 2019.” Michael Lyons, on-trade sales manager at Diageo Ireland, also said in a statement; “The festival has always boasted a line-up of music for the soul and we are thrilled to welcome some of the greatest musicians from the Jazz, RnB, Soul and Motown genres again this year. Those looking for a unique party atmosphere emanating from every part of the city have lots to look forward to with free gigs and fringe events for every palette.” Fiona Collins, Chairperson of the Guinness Cork Jazz Committee commented, “The festival committee is delighted to work in partnership with Diageo Ireland, Cork City Council, Cork Business Association, Cork Chamber and businesses all over the city to create another fantastic weekend programme to be proud of. It’s a great opportunity to showcase the city and its welcoming vibe to thousands of Irish and overseas visitors.” For Guinness Cork Jazz Festival updates and tickets, visit www.guinnessjazzfestival.com. OCTOBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Feast Your Eyes on Dingle Food Fest Kerry is set to host Ireland’s largest waste free food festival with the 2019 Dingle Food Festival aiming to go entirely green and plastic free over October 4 – 6. The 13th Dingle Food Festival will include cookery demonstrations, markets, workshops, street entertainment, children’s activities and the famous taste trail which sees over 70 outlets offering samples of local produce from the Dingle Peninsula. There’s wine, whiskey, and gin tastings, together with cider and craft beer trails. Visitors can also enjoy live entertainment, children’s events, cookery demos and food workshops. 2019 highlights include the annual Great Dingle Bake Off, a charity demonstration by TV Chef Nevin Maguire, a plant-based tricks and treats event for kids and a bi-lingual cookery demonstration as Gaeilge and in English. Festival chairman Matthew Griffin said visitors are encouraged to bring their own cutlery and plate/bowl to this year’s festival or to purchase an eco-friendly bamboo festival pack. The latter will be available at various taste trail outlets, with numerous rinse stations located around the town for cleaning dishes between tastings. 36

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

“We’re delighted with the huge interest once again in the 2019 Dingle Food Festival and we’re particularly pleased that all food vendors have committed to using compostable containers which can be reused or disposed at trail outlets,” said Griffin in a statement. “The aim is to be 100 per cent waste free by 2020 and this ensures we’re well on our way to reaching that goal. We’re also working with local sustainability group, Transition Corca Dhuibhne (TCD) to promote the simple message of reducing, reusing and recycling. We’re encouraging all visitors to the Dingle Food Festival to use the waste segregation stations which will be conveniently located around the town - all attended by volunteers who will help people make the right choice.” Thanks to funding from Kerry County Council, visitors can also re-fill their water bottles for free at the five rinse stations in the town centre. Or they can buy a Dingle Cupán keep cup made entirely from used coffee grounds and bound with natural resins. The Dingle Food Festival was set up to highlight the vast range of locally produced food on the Peninsula, to showcase Dingle’s

award-winning restaurants and to offer a platform for other Irish producers and chefs to showcase their products. Full details of all events including times and locations can be found at Dingle Food Festival’s website at www.dinglefood.com

OOTB

Out of the Blue

Seafood

Dinner daily from 5.30pm and Sunday Lunch Reservations +353-6691-50811 www.outoftheblue.ie Dingle

Welcome to Connaught

Macnas Festival Parade This Fierce Beauty

The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Galway city

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

Connaught has some Carrick on Shannon of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park the present day without interruption. Croagh in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician must for all. Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, For those interested in a religious experience Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist custom of trekking up the mountain has been are reputed to have appeared. The apparition faithfully handed down from generation to was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the from six years to seventy-five and included picturesque town of Westport, and its conical men, women and children. The shrine has shape soars majestically above the surrounding become so popular in modern times that the countryside with magnificent views of Clew Ireland West International Airport was built Bay beneath. especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, Connaught. religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst The county also features the pilgrimage site an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered has it all.

Recommended Shopping Powerscourt Centre

Located in Dublin’s Creative Quarter on the bustling South William Street is the Powerscourt Centre. Housed in a stunning Georgian townhouse, the Powerscourt Centre has over 40 shops and restaurants and offers shoppers a wonderful city centre shopping experience. The centre offers a range of fashion stores, such as All Saints, French Connection and Mary Grant and if antiques are your thing then the Powerscourt Centre is the place to go. There are a number of antique stores in the centre, including Courtville Antiques, Delphi Antiques, Lilly Fine Art, The Silver Shop and Monte Cristo. If you’re planning a wedding in the near future, the Centre also offers a number of superb wedding outlets www.powerscourtcentre.ie

Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre Located at the top of Grafton Street, in the heart of Dublin city centre, Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre hosts a wide variety of top retailers. Household names such as Dunnes Stores, Argos, Boots, Eason, United Colors of Benetton, Mothercare, Elverys, Golden Discs and TK Maxx can be found here. When you’re finished shopping, you can relax in one of the many lovely cafes, head for a pint in one of the many nearby pubs, or take a stroll across the road in St Stephen’s Green. www.stephensgreen.com

Jam Art Factory

Courtville: Antique & Vintage Jewellers

Courtville is a traditional Dublin shop with a friendly atmosphere, in business over 50 years and based in the Antique Gallery within the Historic Powerscourt Townhouse. Their collection of vintage, antique and estate jewellery are sure to capture your imagination. They are envisioning a more personal, accessible and enjoyable world to trade fine jewellery and engagement rings. Authenticity is guaranteed on every piece. Instagram: @matthew.weldons Antique Gallery - Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, 59 South William Street, Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (1) 6794042

Tights Department Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear. They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks.

Celtic Whiskey Shop

Ireland’s premier Irish whiskey specialists with a remarkable selection of beloved, rare and hard to find bottlings and shop exclusives. It boasts a knowledgeable and friendly staff who are proud and passionate about products, and are always on hand to offer advice. Feel free to pop in where we serve up in-store whiskey tastings all day everyday! If you're travelling, our staff can either wrap your purchases in protective wrapping or arrange shipping to national and international destinations. 27 – 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6759744 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com

Mourne Antiques

Unit 108, 1st Floor, Stephen's Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2, Ireland D02 VF67 Shop online: www.tightsdepartment.ie (deliver worldwide)

Designer Exchange

Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row. 64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 www.JamArtFactory.com and www.JamArtPrints.com

Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vuitton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands. 53 Dawnson Street, Dublin 2. 35 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd

Mourne Antiques have been operating in the thriving town of Letterkenny for 25 years. They offer a range of beautiful antiques, such as ceramics, silver, furniture and collectables, all with their own particular history and charm. You could find anything from a rare book to a mink coat! They specialise in a wide range of jewellery. From Victorian gold and precious stone pieces to Contemporary diamond and Engagement rings to 1940’s costume jewellery, their stock is sure to please. 38 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny, Co. Donegal 074 9126457 www.mourneantiques.com

Recommended Shopping The Donegal Shop

The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products. The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists. Mention Travel Ireland to get a 10% discount 2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com

James Fox

Puro

Puro offers innovative collections of contemporary urban-wear and luxury sneakers from emerging talents as well as world renowned designers. Brands include Pal Zileri, Joop!, Baldessarini, Guess, Philippe Model, Gold Brothers, Android Homme, Mallet and many more. Puro is the only Irish stockist of many of these brands and while we feel a visit to this beautiful store is a must to truly appreciate the collections, you can also shop or browse first online at puromenswear.com 34 Wicklow Street, Dublin, Ireland info@puro.ie Call (01) 558 1406

The Kilkenny Shop

Amelia’s is home to a selection of beautiful gallery pieces that are perfect for the home or a present for someone special. They stock a range of art and studio ceramics lovingly handcrafted by makers from all over the country, specialising in local makers from the North-West of Ireland. There are little gifts and keepsakes for the everyday too! All pieces are handpicked by owner Frances Spears. She has over 20 years experience in the design and antiques business so you know you’re in good hands when you pay a visit to Amelia’s Irish Design. 29 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny Co. Donegal 087 2434060 www.amelias.ie

Mackintosh by Francis Campelli

Mackintoshes were first produced in Ireland in 1889 and Francis Campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the most experienced hands The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium when you visit this store. for Irish designed products; from fashion and They offer the finest quality, waterproof jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. For over five decades, the Kilkenny Shop has Mackintoshes for men and women from stock or made to measure been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen from €485, as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories. Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce. 6 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 6777066 www.kilkennyshop.com

Irish Linen House

For over 135 years, James Fox Cigar and Whiskey Store has been Dublin’s focal point for lovers of Irish whiskey and premium Cuban cigars. Here you will find Ireland’s largest selection of handmade Cuban cigars, including rare and vintage stock. James Fox also stock a large range of premium Irish whiskeys and spirits to satisfy the most discerning palates. Tax-Free shopping available in-store and online. 119 Grafton Street, Dublin 2, Ireland. Tel: (01) 677 0533 Email: info@jamesfox.ie Website: www.jamesfox.ie

Amelia’s Irish Design

Irish Linen House create handmade tablerunners, placemats and napkins made from the finest Irish linen. Each piece of the collection is uniquely made, fusing historical elements with a modern, contemporary edge and has caught the attention of worldwide stores including Barneys of New York. Just up the road from the Jameson Distillery, their Smithfield store is the perfect place to pick up a unique piece of Ireland. Nr. Jameson Distillery, Bow Street Smithfield Village, Dublin 7 www.irishlinenhouse.com 01-5329572 / 083-3010502 01 820 8774

46 South William Street, Dublin 2 01 6088608 www.franciscampelli.com

Article

This charming store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland. They stock homeware from around the world, including Irish designers - with everything from Irish woollen throws, glass vases and stationery on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice. Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2 01 679 9268 www.articledublin.com OCTOBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Explore Connaught

Westport House

Kylemore Abbey Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic Victorian walled garden, which won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food.

Glencar Waterfall Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. The most dramatic waterfall descends from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.

Arigna Mining Experience Discover what coal mining life was like for coal miners in the Arigna Valley in Roscommon from the 1700’s until its closure in 1990. Visit the exhibition area to discover the history of the mine and then take an underground tour of the mine, where the methods used to extract coal are demonstrated, with lighting and sound effects added for authenticity.

Mullaghmore

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

www.WestportHouse.ie

Dún Aonghasa National Museum of Ireland - Country Life The National Museum of Ireland - Country Life in Turlough Park, Castlebar houses exhibits showing how rural people in Ireland lived from the time of the Great Famine right up until the 1950s. The museum features four levels of interactive displays and exhibitions that offer a fascinating insight into the lives of the rural Irish people in years gone by.

Connemara Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Surfers and windsurfers from all over the world have ridden waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable.

Westport House is one of the finest country houses in Ireland and since it opened to the public in the 1960s, over four million visitors have passed through its doors. There are over 30 rooms on show, where visitors can immerse themselves in over 500 years of history, going back to the time when the Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley ruled the estate. There is loads for the whole family to enjoy on the estate, including the Pirate Adventure Park, the Birds of Prey Centre and the Westport Train Tour.

Connemara is a world of unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the north through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean.

Located on Inismór in the Aran Islands, Dún Aonghasa is one of the best examples of a semi-circular stone fort in Europe. Located on the 300ft cliffside on the south of the island, it is one of Ireland’s most visited attractions and offers stunning views that stretch the length of the island.

Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside, offering spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding countryside. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year.

Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Venice Italian Restaurant

This is somewhere special to spend the evening, with a relaxing atmosphere and fine dining at its best. Experience Venice’s fine Italian cuisine, with their distinctive taste and beautiful aromas you’ll be sure to have those tastebuds tickled. With stylish facilities, they offer an elegant dining experience that their attention to detail and exceptional service will ensure. Venice is the best Italian restaurant in Galway City Centre and boasts a wide range of tasty Italian dishes. 11 Lower Abbeygate St, Galway City Phone: 091 530-751. Email: restaurantvenice@yahoo.ie

Eala Bhán

Péarla na Mara

Péarla na Mara offer Irish-inspired cuisine with a Mediterranean touch in their restaurant in Oranmore. Using only the finest ingredients, locally sourced in the West and delivered daily specialising in fish, seafood, meat and poultry dishes, along with mouth-watering vegetarian dishes. Pair your meal with wines chosen from the carefully selected wine list. You are welcome to bring your own bottle of wine for a nominal corkage fee of €5 for any amount of wine bottles. Unit 10, Howley Square, Dublin Road, Oranmore Tel: 091 483900 Email: info@pearlanamara.ie

Brasserie on the Corner

Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823

Brasserie on the Corner on Galway’s Eglinton Street specialises in delectable seafood and steak dishes. They serve lunch and dinner and both menus are created with local, seasonal produce at their heart. These delicious offerings are created using produce from local suppliers. You will also be treated to an extensive and delicious wine and cocktail menu. You will truly find pride and passion on the plate!

The Yew Tree Restaurant

Brasserie On The Corner, Eglinton Street, Galway, Ireland Tel: +353 91 530333

If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell.

Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food. Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255

An Port Mór Restaurant

Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West. 1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730

Ashford Castle

Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906. Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003

Upstairs @ West Restaurant

Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit. The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000 OCTOBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Bars in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)

Monroe's

Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.

This famous venue in the heart of Galway city is renowned as one of the best live music venues in the city. Across two stages, they host regular National & International acts. The friendly staff will assure you of a warm welcome and they serve great food in the Tavern along with free live music seven days a week.

17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820

The Front Door

Dominick Street, Galway 091 583397 www.monroes.ie

Bosh Bar and Restaurant

Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar. Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534

Matt Malloy’s One of Galway city’s most popular watering holes, The Front Door is a contemporary Irish bar with a late bar, live music and an extensive drinks menu. Located in Galway’s bustling Latin Quarter and spread across two floors The Front Door features five bars, including a stylish cocktail lounge and Sonny Molloy’s Whiskey Bar. The Front Door is the perfect spot to sample Galway’s nightlife. 8 Cross Street Upper, Galway, H91 YY06 Tel: (091) 563 757

This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within. Bridge St., Westport Tel: 098 26655

The Quays Bar Galway

Roísín Dubh

It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now! Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540 44

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

Located in the city centre in Galway’s vibrant ‘Latin Quarter’ The Quays Bar Galway is one of Galway’s most famous and historic drinking establishments. For close on 400 years The Quays has catered to both Galwegians and visitors to the city of Galway. The restaurant offers a carvery lunch and evening a la carte dinner. The Quays was awarded IMRO Connacht Live Music Venue of the year 2017. 11 Quay St, Galway Tel: (091) 568 347

Welcome to Ulster

The Giants Causway Photo: @storytravelers The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise. County Donegal is in the northwest of the

‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.

new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Mount Errigal

Belfast Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or

County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the

Linsfort Church, Co. Donegal OCTOBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Bars in Ulster The Crown Liquor Saloon

Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin. 51 Donegall St., Belfast Tel: 028 9023 3768

White’s Tavern

Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down. 2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3080

Kelly’s Cellars Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food. 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3187

This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city. 30-32 Bank St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 6058

The Duke Of York

The John Hewitt

One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further. 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 1062

Peadar O’Donnell’s

There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore. Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry. 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry Tel: 028 7126 7295 46

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

Kilkenny Food Festival

is One to Savour Savour Kilkenny is celebrating its 13th year this October bank holiday weekend.

ne of Ireland’s largest and most popular food festivals, the event will be showcasing local culture and produce. Savour Kilkenny will also welcome a host of the most innovative celebrities and opinion makers in the world of gastronomy to the medieval city in Ireland’s Ancient East.

International visitors for this year’s festival include best-selling Australian author and national TV star Kim McCosker. She will be bringing the 4 Ingredients thinking she is known for to the Savour Stage. Other familiar faces attending the event are Edward Hayden & Anne Neary and other homegrown Irish stars such as Paul Flynn, Clodagh McKenna, Catherine Fulvio, Rory O’ Connell, Darren Kennedy and Mount Juliet’s Ken Harker & John Kelly. As well as the Savour Stage, there are some great events taking place across the city including a food and fitness bootcamp with Kathryn Thomas in Kilkenny Castle. On the KBC Bank Wellness Stage, with host Aveen Bannon, visitors can expect healthy cooking demonstrations and informative talks and workshops with top experts, discussing a range of topics from early childhood to old age. Other festival highlights include the bustling food market with over 100 delicious stalls, Australian Beach BBQ with Kim McCosker, a Vegan Night with Roz Purcell at Harper’s Restaurant, a Medieval Banquet at the Medieval Mile Museum, the Culinary Ability Awards Gala Dinner at The Kilkenny Rivercourt Hotel and an afternoon of top tips,

advice and tastings for Entertaining at Home in Hunters Yard Mount Juliet. Looking forward to this year’s festival, Savour Kilkenny director Marian Flannery said in a statement: “We’ve put together a jam-packed programme for the 13th Savour Kilkenny festival with something for people of all ages to enjoy. Kilkenny is at the forefront of an exciting time on the food scene in Ireland and we’re delighted that the festival shines a light on local businesses who are doing great things with local produce.” “As well as cookery demonstrations, workshops, expert talks and advice, visitors can expect special food events in local hotels, restaurants and eateries as well as a great selection of food and drinks stalls on The Parade. Each year, the event draws thousands of visitors to Kilkenny and Ireland’s Ancient East. Tickets are already selling fast for 2019. We recommend booking early to avoid disappointment.” Other not-to-be-missed events include an Organic Wines Talk and Tasting with Owen Murphy from Wines Direct, Brian O’Toole’s Introduction to Beekeeping, Tom Coleman’s Overcoming Sleeping Problems and a workshop on essential oils with Sharon Hearne Smith. This year will also see the introduction of the new Food Provenance award. Local eateries will be recognised for the focus they place on regional producers and seasonal cooking. For more information on Savour Kilkenny, visit savourkilkenny.com. OCTOBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Explore Ulster

Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end.

The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there. In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value.

Dunluce Castle With a rich history, in a stunning, location, Dunluce Castle on the coast of Antrim is just waiting to be explored. Visitor information includes an audio visual tour of the castle, with a ‘treasure hunt’ encouraging younger visitors to explore. You can also download a Dunluce Castle app for iPhone and Android devices, available free of charge from the App Store and Google Play. 48

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

The Old Bushmills Distillery Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens.

Ulster American Folk Park Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories. Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier.

Down County Museum Situated next to the Down Cathedral, the Down County Museum houses modern galleries telling the stories of the area and fantastic temporary exhibitions. Learn about the museum’s history as a gaol and see the Downpatrick High Cross before relaxing in their new Cathedral View Tea Room.

Belleek Pottery One of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages.

Glenveagh National Park The second largest national park in Ireland, Glenveagh is a remote and beautiful wilderness in the north-west of Donegal. Full of rugged mountains, pristine lakes and tumbling waterfalls. Visitors can also take a tour of Glenveagh Castle on the banks of Lough Veagh and take a walk through the beautiful walled gardens, which boast a multitude of exotic plant.

Florence Court Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours.

Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox

Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.

The Ginger Bistro

Coco

1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121

55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers. 1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811

The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger. 7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421

Deane’s Restaurant

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150

Shu

They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table. 253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655

Vanilla Restaurant

Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.

Telfords Restaurant

Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268

Lough Erne Resort

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000

Sun Kee Restaurant

One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. 42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics. 36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134

Sakura

In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant. 82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590

Speranza Restaurant

This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

Lusty Beg

This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300

16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213 OCTOBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Great Irish Writers JONATHAN SWIFT

ften regarded as one of the greatest satirists the English language has ever produced, Jonathan Swift is an Irish writer who left a lasting legacy. Gulliver’s Travels, his best-known work, is the most widely read book ever written in Ireland or by an Irish writer. On top of this, Swift too was a great supporter of Irish causes and left the country’s people something important upon his death. Born in November 1667 in Dublin, Swift spent his childhood in the care of his uncle Godwin. He was sent to one of the most prestigious schools in the country at the time, Kilkenny College, before attending Trinity College in Dublin. Having achieved his BA in 1686, Swift was forced to leave Ireland three years later when war broke out between the Catholic King James II and the Protestant William of Orange. Many Protestants of the time feared reprisals from the displaced and disadvantaged Catholics. This would inspire Swift to write one of his first known compositions To the King: On his Irish Expedition and the Success of his Arms in General. While in England, Swift became secretary to Sir William Temple, who became a patron and mentor to him. He would continue to write throughout the 1690s. Swift also returned to Ireland to become a priest in the Church of Ireland during this period. When Temple died in 1700, Swift completed the editing of his mentor’s memoirs. However,

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2019

members of Temple’s family objected to indiscretions included in the writings and Swift returned to Ireland, taking up residence in Trim in Co. Meath. It was around this time that he began to gain a reputation as a writer, publishing A Tale of a Tub and The Battle of the Books. Swift published these works anonymously as they proved to be controversial. He would continue this practice for most of his life. Swift had hoped to secure a position at a church in England but Queen Anne considered A Tale of a Tub to be blasphemous and would not grant him a position in the country. Instead, he became Dean of St Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin in 1713. Having gained a reputation as a pamphleteer in England, Swift would use these skills to promote Irish causes. After the Declaratory Act of 1720, which insisted that the Kingdom of Ireland was dependent on Great Britain, was passed, Swift responded by anonymously publishing A Proposal for the Universal Use of Irish Manufacture. This encouraged Irish people to use only home-produced goods and reject English imports. This pamphlet enraged the English parliament and a reward was offered for the identity of the writer. Although it was an open secret in Dublin that Swift was the culprit, no one identified him to the authorities, who instead unsuccessfully attempted to try the author’s publisher for the crime. When the English iron-master

William Wood was granted a patent to produce £100,000 of copper currency for Ireland, Swift responded with the first of his celebrated Drapier’s Letters. These pamphlets appealed to the Irish people, asking them to reject ‘Wood’s Halfpence’ on moral and political grounds and those of economic self-interest. Wood’s patent was later withdrawn and Swift was hailed as a national hero by the Irish Protestant ruling classes. A year later, in 1726, Swift first published Travels into Several Remote Nations of the World, in Four Parts, by Lemuel Gulliver, first a surgeon, and then a captain of several ships - better known as Gulliver’s Travels. The novel was an immediate hit, with three printings selling out that year, followed by another print in early 1727. The book is separated into four voyages, each with a different theme but all satirising human pride and the political climate of the time. To this day, it is regarded as a masterpiece of the English language and has been adapted many times for film and theatre. Swift would write prolifically for years but he became increasingly plagued by ill health and died in October 1745. Throughout his life, Swift was concerned about his mental health and the bulk of his fortune was left to found a psychiatric hospital in Dublin. This hospital, St Patrick’s Hospital in Kilmainham, is still open to this day and offers a wide range of treatment programmes to those suffering with mental health issues.