Travel Ireland Volume 6 Issue 71 by Travel Ireland Magazine

Travelireland ireland magazine

Volume 6 Issue 71 March 2020

ST. PATRICK’S FESTIVAL

Returns for 5 Great Days and Nights

Cork to Put on Perfect Poetry Festival

Crawford Art Gallery Hosts Cracking Exhibition

Kilkenny City’s Class Tradfest is Back

Irish Wars 1919 – 1923

The National Museum’s Excellent Exhibition

Pat Liddy

Franco-Irish Literary Festival to be a Page Turner

Tells the Tale of Ireland’s Patron Saint

Discover the Wonders of

Cobh

Cork’s Fantastic French Film Festival Returns

Belfast Film Festival Turns 20

Aidan Gillen Stars in Abbey Theatre’s Faith Healer

CONTENTS

4 Welcome to Leinster 6 St. Patrick’s Festival 8 Theatre – Dublin 10 Faith Healer – Abbey Theatre 12 St. Patrick by Pat Liddy 14 Kilkenny Tradfest 17 Franco-Irish Literary Festival 18 Explore Leinster 20 Leinster Restaurants 22 Leinster Bars 23 National Museum Exhibition 24 Welcome to Munster 26 Crawford Art Gallery Exhibition 27 Cobh Heritage Centre 28 Explore Munster 30 Cobh 32 Munster Bars 33 Munster Restaurants 34 Cork International Poetry Festival 36 Cork French Film Festival 37 Welcome to Connaught 38 Theatre – Rest of Ireland 39 East Asia Film Festival Ireland 40 Connaught Restaurants 41 Connaught Bars 42 Shopping 44 Explore Connaught 45 Welcome to Ulster 46 Ulster Bars 47 Ulster Restaurants 48 Belfast Film Festival 49 Explore Ulster 50 Great Irish Writers

Ellen Media Communications Ltd Suite 4, Talbot Business Centre, 19 Talbot St , Dublin 1. Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag

Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome to our March issue! Whether this is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. In our latest issue, we shine a spotlight on some fantastic attractions and events on offer across the country. These include the massive St. Patrick’s Festival taking place over five days and nights, as well as Belfast Film Festival, Cork French Film Festival, Cork International Poetry Festival, the Franco-Irish Literary Festival, Kilkenny Tradfest and exhibitions at Crawford Art Gallery and the National Museum of Ireland. We also give readers the low down on the best theatre to see, including Faith Healer at the Abbey. Meanwhile, Pat Liddy tells the story of Saint Patrick as the magazine spotlights Cobh as a top tourist destination. Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heartfelt céad míle fáilte and hope you enjoy your stay. Taisteal sásta (Happy Travels).

Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Stephen Porzio (stephen@ellenmediacom.ie) Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Contributors: Pat Liddy, Angeline Le Mercier, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’ , Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin, Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael McLaughlin, Roma Keeley. We wish to record our thanks to Michael Bates, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. We would also like to thank Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and 10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.

MARCH 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city. If you want to escape to the country without

GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country. County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - MARCH 2020

Phoenix Park, Dublin over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone.

Laois is where you can try your hand at a range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum. Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor.

St Kevin’s Church, Glendalough

Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June.

Round Tower, Glendalough Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!

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ST. PATRICK’S FESTIVAL A national civic celebration, St. Patrick’s Festival returns on March 13 - 17 for five great days and nights with a diverse programme of events.

his year’s theme is SEODA – Treasures from Ireland. The festival will be celebrating Ireland’s rich heritage. It will feature a host of fun-filled family experiences, large-scale outdoor events, newly commissioned collaborative performances, a myriad of musical treats, the magnificent National St. Patrick’s Festival Parade, an expanded four-day Festival Village and Food Market at Merrion Square and more. More than half a million revellers will take to the streets of Dublin for one of the biggest, most vibrant parade spectacles in the world on Tuesday, March 17. The National St. Patrick’s Festival Parade is a whirlwind of glittering colours, entrancing choreography and breath-taking feats of design and engineering. Six of Ireland’s world-class street theatre companies and over 3000 performers, actors, dancers, musicians, makers and creators will join with 11 bombastic marching bands from Ireland, Scotland, France and the USA to create a heady Irish carnival atmosphere like no other.

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - MARCH 2020

This year sees the Festival Village at Merrion Square expand to four days of fantastic events, fun adventures and glorious food from Saturday, March 14 to Tuesday, March 17. A jam-packed programme will be on offer including a Gaeltacht area, Céilí Mór, dynamic science shows, breath-taking circus performances, children’s readings, live music, street theatre, world food stalls and much more. Dublin UNESCO City of Literature’s Citywide read, Boot by Shane Hegarty, will come to life as the author tells the story of a robot who wakes up in a rubbish dump with only two-and-a half memories. Children can get their game face on at Actual Reality Arcade, a lifesized interactive game zone for all ages, and stop by Friends of Crusoe with their giant wooden automata. They can also join the Whistleberries for mesmerising melodies on whistles, uilleann pipes, guitars, keyboards and fiddles. Visitors can also laugh their socks off at the hilarious trio Le P’Opera, marvel at the absurd and extraordinary Tumble Circus or catch Irish legends Kíla in the

flesh for two special shows. In regards the latter, the first is a screening and score performance with award winning animation studio Cartoon Saloon. This will then be followed by a more traditional live show. This year there’s also ABAIR, a strand of traditional singing and storytelling events exploring the oral folk traditions of Ireland, bringing old-hands and newcomers together to share and create. Taking place from March 13 – 16 at various locations across the city, it is curated by traditional singer Macdara Yeates. ABAIR will spotlight artists and performers including Traveller singer Thomas McCarthy, storytellers Liz Weir, Nuala Hayes, Eddie Lenihan and Jack Lynch, traditional harmonists Landless, poets Annemarie Ní Churreáin and Dermot Bolger, sean-nós singer Doireann Glackin, singer-songwriter Steo Wall, singer and bouzouki player Daoirí Farrell, flautist, tin whistle player and singer Cathal Mc Connell and traditional singers Rosie Stewart, Dáibhidh Stiúbhaird and Len Graham. Every event in the strand is open to all ages, with some specific family ones in the schedule. The festival will also host various talks and discussions. ‘A Treasury of

Irish Voices’ takes place at the Chapel Royal in Dublin Castle and will focus on broadcaster and historian Brendan Balfe in conversation with Dave Fanning, introducing historic recordings of Irish writers, poets, performers and public figures. ‘Finest Minds’, meanwhile, sees renowned RTÉ producer and broadcaster Marian Richardson delve into the thoughts, life and career of award-winning comedian, actress and presenter Deirdre O’Kane at the Pepper Canister Church, with a special guest performance from Loah. St. Patrick’s Festival 2020’s music programme includes two world premieres. Acclaimed contemporary folk group This is How We Fly will collaborate on a new show with Irish singer Iarla Ó Lionáird at Liberty Hall Theatre, while Matthew Nolan and Adrian Crowley re-imagine James Joyce’s Pomes Penyeach with Lisa Hannigan and guests at the National Concert Hall. Award-winning broadcaster, presenter and DJ Annie Mac will curate a sold-out show at the iconic Guinness Storehouse, featuring the fresh Irish sounds of Kojaque, Soulé and Denise Chaila. One of Ireland’s greatest contemporary musicians, Colm Mac Con Iomaire meanwhile will perform with his full band and guests ConTempo Quartet at Vicar Street. Dublin duo Mount Alaska are set to bring their euphoric sounds to the Pepper Canister Church, with guests

Slow Moving Clouds. Meanwhile Dublin Gospel Choir are to be joined by special guests Kitt Philippa and U.M.A.N. at the same venue for two uplifting shows. Over at Christchurch Cathedral, Welsh and Irish favourites, Gruff Rhys and Richard Egan will come together for a sold-out gig. New to the St. Patrick’s Festival in 2020 is Festival After Dark, a new latenight series running throughout the five nights of the event. It includes live performances and club nights across the city in some of the capital’s best venues Lost Lane, Bow Lane, The Sugar Club and Yamamori Tengu. Theatre and events company THISISPOPBABY will team up with the St. Patrick’s Festival to present festivalwithin-a-festival Where We Live 2020 at the Project Arts Centre from March 11 – 21. The event will interrogate and celebrate what it means and how it feels to live in Dublin and Ireland right now. St. Patrick’s Festival 2020 is inviting the world to discover a vibrant, dynamic, contemporary Ireland, where heritage and tradition are proudly embraced. Through its vast, eclectic line-up, there’s a great bounty of treasures on offer.

Further event details, tickets, news, information and accessibility information can be found at www.stpatricksfestival.ie. Meanwhile, to learn more about Saint Patrick himself and the activities Travel Ireland’s own Pat Liddy will be involved in during the festival, see page 12.

MARCH 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Theatre Bord Gáis Energy Theatre Irish National Opera: Carmen

up-to-date topical material, Rosenstock’s latest promises to be unmissable. Touring until April, for the full list of dates and venues see www. mcd.ie/artists/the-very-best-of-gift-grub-live. Dates: Mar 31 – Apr 4 Tel: 01 679 3323 or visit www.olympia.ie Also at the Olympia this month: Rock Against Homelessness Mar 3, Keith Barry – Insanity Mar 5 – 7, Peppa Pig’s Best Day Ever Mar 28 – 29.

An upright soldier on duty far from home, the femme fatale from the wrong side of the tracks, love at first sight, a walk on the wild side, criminality, a handsome rival and a breaking point that leads to tragedy in the scorching Spanish sun - the colourful arias and choruses of Bizet’s Carmen tell it all with irresistible, unforgettable musical panache.

The Gate Theatre Our New Girl

longest running show of any kind in the history of theatre, Agatha Christie’s The Mousetrap comes to the Gaiety with an extra matinee show on Thursday, April 2 now added due to overwhelming demand. Dates: Mar 30 – Apr 4 Tel: 0818 719 388 or visit www.gaietytheatre.ie Also at the Gaiety this month: The Lieutenant of Inishmore Jan 27 – Mar 14, The Mai Mar 24 - 28

Smock Alley Theatre Catch of the Day

Dates: Mar 22 - 28 Tel: 01 677 7999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie Also at the Bord Gais this month: An Evening with Whitney: The Whitney Houston Hologram Tour Mar 3, Sasha Velour: Smoke and Mirrors Mar 11

The Abbey Theatre Faith Healer

Travelling through remote and isolated areas in Scotland and Wales, Frank Hardy offers his unique cure to the most desperate and hopeless of people. Does he actually possess a gift? Or are these rare and miracle healings only tricks of the mind? 40 years since directing the Irish premiere of Faith Healer at the Abbey Theatre, Joe Dowling returns with a new production of Brian Friel’s masterpiece starring Game of Thrones and Peaky Blinders’ Aidan Gillen. For more information, see page 10.

Irish writer Nancy Harris (The Red Shoes and The Beacon) returns to the Gate stage with the national premiere of her new startling psychological drama. Focusing on an upmarket London family, a plastic surgeon has embarked on his latest charitable mission, leaving his wife alone with their troubled 8-year-old son. An Irish nanny arrives on the scene with her own agenda, leading to a climactic ending where tensions boil over. Dates: Feb 27 – Mar 21 Tel 01 874 4045 or visit www.gatetheatre.ie Also at the Gate this month: The Little Foxes Mar 26 – May 9

The Gaiety Theatre The Mousetrap

Jon Kenny (d’Unbelievables, Father Ted) plays numerous characters but primarily Dan, a man in his 50s who is living alone. He feels himself an outsider looking in on the community. When he hears about the passing of a dear friend, he is forced to look back on his own troubled youth and face up to his demons.

The Olympia Theatre

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - MARCH 2020

Also at Smock Alley this month: Masterpieces Mar 2 - 7, The Marxist in Heaven Mar 7, The King’s Dark Secret Mar 12 – 13, The Londsdale Project Mar 18 - 28

Crowman

Also at the Abbey this month: The Fall of the Second Republic Feb 24 – Mar 14, Opera Briefs Mar 24 – 28, Ireland’s Call Apr 1 – 11

Ireland’s most successful impressionist and satirist, Mario Rosenstock is celebrating 20 years of Gift Grub by taking a brand spanking new stage show on the road. Featuring the best sketches from the comedy series plus bang

Dates: Mar 30 – Apr 4 Tel 01 677 0014 or visit www.smockalley.com

Dlr Mill Theatre

Dates: Mar 30 – May 16 Tel: 01 887 2200 or visit www.abbeytheatre.ie

Gift Grub 2020 Featuring Mario Rosenstock

In Ireland 1966, Joe Welch, a skipper, sails into Dingle Bay with a very unusual catch. What follows is a ridiculous series of events, involving Eamon De Valera, Queen Elizabeth and a whole lot of nuns. A true story, Catch of the Day is a raucous and little-bit-political play with a lot of heart, laughs and live trad-inspired music, all set in a Dingle pub.

When a group of people gathered in a country house cut off by the snow discover, to their horror, that there is a murderer in their midst, who can it be? One by one the suspicious characters reveal their sordid pasts until the last nerve-shredding moment where the identity and the motive are finally uncovered. The

Dates: Mar 27 Tel 01 296 9340 or visit www.milltheatre.ie Also at the dlr Mill Theatre this month: Romeo and Juliet Mar 12, Chess - The Musical Mar 17 – 21, God Has No Country Mar 25, Letting Go Mar 28 Thoroughly Modern Millie Mar 31 – Apr 4

Aidan Gillen Stars in Abbey Theatre’s

FaithHealer 40 years since directing the Irish premiere of Faith Healer at the Abbey, Joe Dowling returns to the theatre with a new production of Brian Friel’s masterpiece from March 30 to May 16, recruiting a stellar cast to join him.

his new Abbey Theatre production will feature in her Abbey debut Niamh Cusack, Olivier Award nominee Nigel Lindsay and Tony Award nominee Aidan Gillen. The latter is also renowned for his parts in iconic TV shows like Game of Thrones, Love/Hate, Peaky Blinders and

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - MARCH 2020

The Wire and movies such as Bohemian Rhapsody, Calvary, Sing Street and The Dark Knight Rises. First produced in 1979, Friel’s play is about the life of the faith healer Frank Hardy (Gillen). This is as monologued through the shifting memories of Frank, his wife Grace and stage manager Teddy –

each character offering new perspective and revelations on their momentous lives together. Travelling through remote and isolated areas in Scotland and Wales, Frank offers his unique cure to the most desperate and hopeless of people. Does he actually possess a gift ? Or are these rare and miracle healings only tricks of the mind? “Faith Healer is Friel’s masterpiece,” said Dowling in a statement, speaking about revisiting the work. “The complex storytelling, the powerful language and characters and its unique form make it one of the great plays in Abbey history. I am honored to direct it again after all these years with a superb cast and design team.” Directors of the Abbey Theatre Graham McLaren and Neil Murray added: “Faith Healer is one of our favourite plays. The chance to be in this building producing it is a real thrill of a lifetime. As we begin to see a new National Theatre on the horizon for Ireland, we want to honour some of the historic moments of our current building.” “The Abbey’s production of Brian Friel’s spectacular play in 1980 was a moment of great significance. Who better to revisit the play than the director of that lauded production and one of our predecessors – the wonderful Joe Dowling. We are

genuinely excited to see what his brand-new staging will conjure for our audience.” Faith Healer was Friel’s 12th play. The dramatist, who died in October 2015, was also a short story writer and co-founder of the Field Day Theatre Company. He was considered one of the greatest living English-language dramatists, described often as an ‘Irish Chekhov’ and compared to the likes of Samuel Beckett, Arthur Miller, Harold Pinter and Tennessee Williams. Faith Healer runs at the Abbey from Monday, March 30 to Saturday, May 16. Tickets cost €13 – 45 and can be purchased online via www.abbeytheatre.ie. Theatregoers can also see the play for free on March 30 as part of the venue’s Free First Preview scheme. Set up to encourage more to attend the theatre, tickets are only available on the night, limited to one person and issued on a first come first served basis. They will be handed out from 6:30pm. However, the Abbey encourages those interested to arrive earlier as queues will form outside the building. For more information, visit www.abbeytheatre.ie/freefirst-previews. As Faith Healer runs on the Abbey Stage, the theatre will also feature another former Love/Hate cast member monologuing. John Connors, of Cardboard Gangsters fame, will take to the venue’s Peacock Stage from April 1 – 11 for his one man show Ireland’s Call. It follows the lives and family histories of three young men as they grow up in Coolock on Dublin’s Northside. MARCH 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

St. Patrick

by Pat Liddy

St. Patrick, whose feast day on March 17 has become an almost international event, is the main Patron Saint of Ireland. Less well known is the fact that he shares this honour with two other Irish people of the early Christian period (5th/6th centuries); the missionary St Columba (also called Colmcille) and the abbess Brigid (known as Bride in England).

long with these three, there are at least 300 other saints in the Irish religious calendar. But, of all of them, only five have been formally canonised. Surprisingly, this official ‘approval’ does not apply to the three luminaries mentioned above. In fact, the first officially canonised Irish saint was St Malachy, Archbishop of Armagh, who was only elevated in 1199. St. Patrick’s origins are very obscure. He was born in Roman Britain but exactly where cannot be ascertained. In his own writings he called his birthplace Bannavem Taberniae, which doesn’t appear on any old maps or medieval references. Some say this location may be near Dunbarton in Western Scotland or, maybe more likely, in Wales. So he is a Briton and not an Irishman which may come as a surprise to some people. The Latinised version of his name was Magonus Sucatus. He only became known as ‘Patrick’ after his consecration as a bishop around 431 when Pope Celestine conferred on him the title 12

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Patricius (meaning ‘Father of the People’ or ‘Noble One’, terms deriving from the Roman days). According to Patrick’s own account in his famous Confessio, he was abducted by Irish pirates from his home when he was 16 years old and served as a slave on what is believed to be Slemish Mountain in County Antrim in Northern Ireland. He escaped after 6 years taking a ship back home by a convoluted route. Eventually pursuing the life of his grandfather, Potitus, who was a priest and his father Calpurnius, who was a deacon, Patrick was himself ordained, possibly in France. Priests were allowed to be married then so if they had not been we would have had no St. Patrick! Patrick was not the first missionary to come to Ireland. Indeed, there were probably already some Christian settlements along Ireland’s east coast which would have been influenced by traders from other lands. This is why, in 431, the Pope sent a bishop called Palladius to establish the first diocese

for existing Christians. Unfortunately, Palladius died a year later and Patrick, who had a deep knowledge of the Gaelic language and of the Irish people from his days as a slave, was then chosen to replace the deceased bishop. Patrick decided not to come to the eastern province of Leinster as Palladius had done but rather to go back to Ulster where he was familiar with the people and the countryside. Thus began his outstanding missionary work which, in a relatively short time and against many odds and hardships, converted much of the northern half of Ireland to Christianity. It is hard to grasp how he could be so successful at a time of heavily forested landscapes, with rivers and rudimentary roads the only connections between scattered communities. The population of Ireland then is reckoned to have been around half a million. Knowing the language was a huge asset but familiarity with the governing structures was his main advantage. Patrick knew that first converting a chieftain meant that his people would follow almost automatically. It was dangerous work. His life was threatened continuously especially by the pagan druid priestly class. They saw their power dwindling with the introduction of

Christianity and didn’t give up easily. In fact, the often-misquoted fact that St. Patrick banished snakes from Ireland (there were never any snakes in the country) actually refers to serpents and not snakes. The serpents alluded to here were the druids who were considered evil and serpent-like by the common folk. His later years were a life of hard labour, frustrations and jealous accusations. His autobiography, the Confessio, was really a defence to show that he had not abused his position to gain wealth and favours from the aristocracy but that instead he remained poor and at the total service of the Irish people. He finally died around 462 (typically, even that date is disputed) and is reputedly buried at Downpatrick Cathedral, just south of Belfast. What then was Patrick’s legacy (apart from the iconic shamrock which legend says he used to explain the three persons of the Trinity)? For one thing, his work was continued by his energetic disciples in Ireland until the whole land was Christianised. Then his monk-followers gradually spread across Great Britain, France, Northern Italy, Germany, Switzerland and Austria, opening monasteries that became renowned as centres of learning. The famous Book of Kells is a prime example of this flowering of scholarship. Some claim that these foundations became the proto-universities of Europe

and helped to enlighten the so-called Dark Ages after the fall of the Roman Empire. In Dublin, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, the largest church in Ireland, is situated on a site where a wooden church stood from the mid-5th century when St. Patrick came to this area and baptised the locals. The location of the well he possibly drew the water from is indicated just inside the main gate of the adjoining St. Patrick’s Park. For the Irish today, even those who don’t subscribe to Christian belief, St. Patrick is

somehow the embodiment of the nation, the connection that has united us and has informed the rest of the world on who we are for many centuries, especially on St. Patrick’s Day, and will hopefully continue do so into the far future. Join Pat Liddy’s walking tours In the Footsteps of St. Patrick from March 13 to 18, part of the St. Patrick’s Festival. See www. walkingtours.ie. For information on the St. Patrick’s Festival see www.stpatricksfestival.ie (www.epicchq.com).

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KILKENNY CITY’S CLASS TRADFEST IS BACK Kilkenny City is again due to be hopping and lepping to the sounds of the best traditional music on St. Patrick’s weekend thanks to Kilkenny Tradfest.

he festival returns from March 12 – 17 for its 8th edition. Headliners this year include 70s trad rock ground-breakers Horslips; Andy Irvine and Paul Brady on the anniversary tour of their seminal self-titled album from the same era; Donal Lunny as part of ZoDoMo; and Iarla Ó Lionáird and Steve Cooney performing at the event’s closing night gig in The Set Theatre. Over the years, Kilkenny Tradfest has developed into one of Ireland’s leading festivals. Its commitment to attracting the highest-quality acts to the stages of the city’s venues has ensured that the crowds keep coming. On top of this, the festival is popular with musicians, offering many masterclasses and the chance for attendees to improve their musical skills. Learn more about playing the accordion with Máirtín O’ Connor, the fiddle with Zoe Conway or Declan Folan, the bouzouki with Donal

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - MARCH 2020

Lunny, the bodhrán with local legend Tommy Lanigan and the pipes with former long-time local resident Leonard Barry. Speaking about this year’s Kilkenny Tradfest, festival director Marian Flannery said in a statement: “In terms of the live gigs, we are thrilled with the calibre of acts. We are particularly delighted to have Horslips coming to Kilkenny for the first time since their heyday when they rocked out venues like the Carlton and the Mayfair ballrooms.” “The band changed the face of traditional music, introducing it to young people. They laid the ground for the likes of Moving Hearts, Stockton’s Wing and modern groups like Kila - who also appear live and free in Paris Texas as part of the Bulmers Trad Trail. Horslips appearance in Langton’s Ballroom on March 16 will be nostalgic and full of energy.”

To see the full line-up for Kilkenny Tradfest and for more information, visit www.kilkennytradfest.com.

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FRANCO-IRISH LITERARY FESTIVAL SET TO BE A PAGE TURNER

Now a significant date in Dublin’s literary calendar, the Franco-Irish Literary Festival is preparing for its 21st edition – set to take place between Friday, April 3 and Sunday, April 5.

ince its inception, the Franco-Irish Literary Festival’s aim has been to widen and enhance the long-standing friendship that exists between Ireland, France and other French-speaking countries around the globe. It welcomes writers in both the English and Irish languages, together with writers of the wider francophone world. Each year the festival presents a central theme and 15 to 20 writers, professionals and artists of the English, Irish or French language are given the opportunity to exchange experiences and ideas in an informal setting. Panel discussions, interviews, readings and signings take

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place over the event’s three days. This year’s theme ‘Making a Better World’ reﬂects on literature that echoes the growing concerns of the human race: the environment in which we live, climate emergency, the decline of animal species and our Earth in transformation. Invited Irish and French-speaking writers will discuss these crucial questions, and in the context of this growing awareness, their exchanges are sure to provide food for thought both at a collective and individual level. The prominent guests of the 2020 edition of the Franco-Irish Literary Festival include documentarist

Nicolas Hulot, poet Michael Longley, editor Sarah DavisGoff, journalist Aymeric Caron, writers Natacha Kanapé Fontaine and Éilís Ní Dhuibhne, vocalist Siobhra Quinlan, and many more. The Franco-Irish Literary Festival’s opening night will kick off on Friday evening at the multimedia French library located within Alliance Française Dublin’s city headquarters. Situated at the corner of Nassau and Kildare Street in the heart of the capital, the first day will centre around a special performance. This will then be followed on Saturday at Dublin Castle with the main events, book sales and various exhibitions taking place. The festival will then come to an end with a literary brunch on Sunday back at Alliance Française HQ. The Franco-Irish Literary Festival is organised every year by Alliance Française Dublin and the French Embassy with the support of the Arts Council, Literature Ireland, Foras na Gaeilge and various partners from Ireland and France. The festival also has been awarded the prestigious Dublin

UNESCO City of Literature label. All events are free of charge and are open to the public with simultaneous translation provided. For more information about this truly unique event in Dublin’s cultural calendar, visit the Franco-Irish Literary Festival’s website at francoirishliteraryfestival.com. Meanwhile, be sure to visit Alliance Française Dublin’s site at www.alliance-francaise.ie to discover all the upcoming events the French language and cultural centre have to offer. Located in a listed Irish Heritage site, the non-profit organisation and registered charity seek to promote French culture, along with providing a place for intercultural exchanges. Their venue hosts a multimedia library aimed at francophiles, a café serving hot and cold meals and an exhibition space for an ever-changing array of interesting contemporary artworks. alliance-francaise.ie.

MARCH 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Explore Leinster

The Chester Beatty Library

EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum You won’t find leprechauns or pots of gold here, but you’ll discover what it means to be Irish expands far beyond the island through the emigrants who became scientists, politicians, poets, artists and even outlaws all over the world. At EPIC, awarded Europe’s Leading Tourist Attraction at the World Travel Awards, discover why saying “I’m Irish” is one of the biggest conversation starters, no matter where. EPIC tells the moving, unforgettable stories of those who left the island and changed the world. A fully digital museum, experience state-of-the-art interactive galleries complete with touch screens, motion sensor quizzes and powerful audio and video. Watch characters from the past tell tales of adventure and perseverance, conflict and discovery, belief and community. Tel: +353 (0)1 906 0861 Email: info@epicchq.com Book at www.tickets.epicchq.com. Open year-round. 10.00 – last entry at 17.00. Entrance fees (standard): Adult €16.50; Senior/ Student €15.00; Child (6-15) €8.00; Child (U5) Free; Family (2A+2C) €40.

Glasnevin Cemetery Museum & Guided Tours Located 2.5km from Dublin city centre, Glasnevin Cemetery is one of Ireland’s most popular attractions - a breathtakingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery where over 1.6 million are buried. Guides are passionate about sharing their love of history and recount the stories of Ireland’s fascinating past through daily walking tours, resulting in history lessons made fun and memorable by professionals who know their stuff. Awarded TripAdvisor’s Travellers’ Choice Award 2018, Glasnevin is a cemetery of historic importance. Museum, genealogy, gift shop and café on site. Open daily for guided tours, re-enactments and the O’Connell tower. museum@glasnevintrust.ie (01) 882 6550 www.glasnevinmuseum.ie

Pat Liddy Walking Tours of Dublin

If you really want to get to know the city, then walking around with an entertaining and professional guide is the best way to discover its history and hidden treasures. Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade. The tours are described as entertaining and full of history. Even for someone who lives in Dublin, the tours surprises with loads of hidden facts. You can choose from a wide range of scheduled tours (all year round), including three brand new tours designed to get you off the beaten path. Docklands – The New Old Dublin, Hidden Gems of the Northside and The Tempting Whiskey Trail around the historic Liberties. Private tours can be arranged at any time geared to the topic of your choice. Tours are offered in main European languages. Find Out More Book at: www.walkingtours.ie Contact: Info@walkingtours.ie or 00353 10832 9406

Kilmainham Gaol (Jail)

The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world. Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3pm and 4pm. Opening hours: 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat 11am-5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm. Tel: 01 407 0750

The National Museum of Ireland

Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance. Tel: 01 453 5984

The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. With three locations in Dublin covering Archaeology, Natural History, Decorative Arts & History, and one location in Mayo covering Country Life, you can lose yourself for hours in the many exhibitions. Free admission Tel +353 (0) 1 677 7444 www.museum.ie

Baggot Street welcomes a beautiful modern Italian restaurant! Open for lunch from 12pm to 3pm, Dinner 5pm 'til late, Mon- Sat www.cirillos.ie

Phone | +353 1 676 6848 Location | No. 140, Baggot St., Dublin 2 18

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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Camden Kitchen

A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff. 3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 476 0125 www.camdenkitchen.ie

Silken Thomas

Silken Thomas is a family operated business, established for over 40 years. Focussed on giving that warm Irish welcome, Silken Thomas has a proven record in quality and service. Silken Thomas is where you can eat, drink, dance and sleep. Silken Thomas brings to you the traditional Irish Pub Lils, the more sports-orientated Squires and the contemporary Flanagan’s Lounge. For whatever occasion you are celebrating or a place to simply relax for a drink, Silken Thomas is the choice for you. The Square Kildare Town Co. Kildare +353 (0) 45 522232 info@silkenthomas.com

PRADO

Zaytoon

Peploe’s

Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park. 16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com

Cliff Townhouse

Fine dining in Dublin city centre with seafood focused menus, including the innovative Afternoon Sea. The Cliff Townhouse restaurant serves brilliantly executed Dublin classics, menus are equally suited to a threecourse celebration or a light bite in the middle of the day. Staples include generous salads, eggs Benedict, Galway oysters, Irish lobsters, dressed Yawl Bay crabs, wild sea trout and 10oz Hereford rib eye steaks. 22 St Stephen's Green, Dublin 2 +35316383939 info@clifftownhouse.ie

Located by the gorgeous coastal area of Clontarf, Prado offers locally sourced food, cooked in a Mediterranean style over an open fire of Irish hardwoods. With its smart yet relaxed dining spaces, the restaurant is perfect for everything from a casual lunch or brunch to a night out with friends. A warm welcome is guaranteed in this beautiful restaurant by the sea. This restaurant chain gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, Zaytoon offer the very best of Persian cuisine. On top of their famous location on Parliament Street in Temple Bar, they have spots in Camden Street, Dublin 2; Swords Pavilions; and Ranelagh, Dublin 6. www.zaytoon.ie 20

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Opening Times: Mon: CLOSED Tues - Fri: Lunch12:00 - 15:00 Dinner17:00 - Close Sat: Brunch 10:00 - 15:00 Dinner17:00 - Close Sun: Brunch10:00 - 12:45 All Day Menu Address: 9 Vernon Ave Clontarf Dublin 3 Tel: 01 6932299 Email: bookings@prado.ie Web: www.prado.ie

Mexico to Rome

Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value. 23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Le Bon Crubeen

This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin, with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It has won Best Value Restaurant Dublin in the Dubliner, Best Pre-Theatre listing in Hot Press and Best Casual Dining in the Restaurant Awards Value and Quality. 81-2 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 0126 www.leboncrubeen.ie

ASADOR

Café Topolis

The Left Bank Bistro is 23 years in business, a true testament to its popularity. This modern restaurant is situated in the heart of Old Athlone, a stone's throw from the Athlone Lock on the River Shannon with views of the Norman Castle and its ancient architecture. The food is exciting and innovative. You can savour fresh fish and dishes such as beef carpaccio, chicken satay and an array of decadent, delicious desserts. Fry Place, High St, Athlone, Co. Westmeath Call (090) 649 4446 Email: info@leftbankbistro.com Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.

ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food. 1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4. Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie

La Ruelle Wine Bar

37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961

Cirillo’s

‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’. ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food.

The Left Bank Bistro

Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers. Perfect for the festive season or any events. 3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie

Salamanca

Cirillo’s have gone to great lengths to ensure that their customers enjoy an authentic Italian meal. All of their pizzas are made to the traditional Vera Pizza Napoletana standards, using San Marzano tomatoes, 00 flour and fresh mozzarella all finished in a wood fire oven that they imported from Naples. All of their pasta, bread, pizza dough and ice creams are made in-house every day and they offer a wide variety of Italian wines, craft beers and aperitifs that beautifully compliment their seriously tasty meals.

Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City.

140 Baggot Street, Dublin 2 +353 1 6766848 www.cirillos.ie

1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie MARCH 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Bars in Leinster

The Duke

Sin É

Sin É on Ormond Quay is Dublin’s original late night alternative music venue. Whether it’s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic night’s that you’re looking for, Sin É caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If you’re looking for a great atmosphere and some of the best musicians in Dublin then Sin É is definitely the place to be. 14 -15 Ormond Quay Tel: 01 555 4036 & 01 555 4037 www.sin-e.ie

Grogan’s

Dingle Whiskey Bar

The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. And every Tuesday they host a Whiskey Tasting Class from 7pm with whiskey guru Fionnán O’Connor. Learn everything you ever wanted to know about the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey. Tickets available at the bar for €18.

Photo Ros Kavanagh

Ideally situated close to Grafton Street, this old watering hole has been providing liquid refreshment and sustenance to the people of Dublin since 1822. They have a great selection of craft beers, whiskeys and gins for you to try, along with amazing food. The Duke is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of busy Grafton Street. 9 Duke St, Dublin 2 016799553

44 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 677 4810 www.theporterhouse.ie

This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming. 15 S William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 9320

J.P. Mooney’s JT Pim’s

Located in the heart of the Dame District, JT Pim’s is styled as a local bar in the city centre. They offer quality drinks in comfortable surrounds. From local craft beers such as the 5 Lamps and Galway Hooker ranges, to fine wines and signature cocktails such as their twist on the classic Old Fashioned, they have all tastes covered. Their bartenders are happy to take requests and guide you through the list. Relax in their bespoke armchairs or leather couches, or when the sun is shining, soak up the atmosphere in Dame Court. 4 South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2 (01) 672 4645 22

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On the historical corner of Nassau and Kildare Street, directly opposite Trinity College, you will find J.P. Mooney’s, a traditional Irish pub with a modern twist. Boasting a vast selection of whiskeys and gins, a wide range of Irish and international craft beer and one of the creamiest pints of Guinness around - you will surely find something to tickle your fancy. Big screens to watch the sport, live traditional music several nights a week, and a cosy snug in which to relax and enjoy the atmosphere. Traditional Irish food served all day long. 2 Nassau Street Dublin 2 (01) 551 3725

The Confession Box

One of the smallest bars in Dublin, The Confession Box is situated in the heart of Dublin City near the Spire. During the War of Independence rebel volunteers sought refuge here and received the sacraments from local sympathetic clergy. Recently, this iconic part of Dublin’s history was renovated. Now run by the capital’s friendliest bar staff, the spot offers great live music from Thursday to Sunday, as well as coverage of major TV sports events. Catering to all tastes, it’s no surprise The Confession Box has picked up much deserved awards. 88 Marlborough St, Dublin 1. 01 828 0028

‘Pistol Hidden in Book’ Discover the fight for Ireland’s independence through both military action and civil disobedience

‘E Coy A.S.U 3RD Batt., Dublin Brigade IRA patrolling on Grafton Street, July 1921’

IRISH WARS 1919 – 1923

The National Museum’s Excellent Exhibition The refurbished Irish Wars 1919 – 1923 exhibition is currently on display at the National Museum of Ireland – Decorative Arts & History in Collins Barracks.

he collection forms part of the permanent exhibition Soldiers and Chiefs. Yet, it has been substantially reimagined in conjunction with the museum’s Decade of Centenaries Commemorations. Visitors will see more than 50 newly displayed objects, new graphics and AV elements, as well as some new topics of discussion including civil disobedience, imprisonment, hunger strikes, propaganda, women in warfare and the effects of the conflict on civilian populations. The probing of these subject matters aims to increase public understanding of this complex period in Ireland’s history. Items returning to display from the National Museum of Ireland’s reserve collection after 15 years include the death masks of Arthur Griffith, Michael Collins, Cathal Brugha and Terence MacSwiney. The exhibition will also feature two key artefacts on loan from private family collections. One of these is an IRA Intelligence File which has been digitised and shown publicly for the first time. The other is hair shorn from a woman in a ‘bobbing’ or ‘punishment shearing’, found in the possession of

Michael Barry when he was arrested in 1920. Other objects new to the exhibition include the note written by Arthur Griffith on the signing of the AngloIrish Treaty declaring ‘The end of the conflict of centuries is at hand’; the RIC handcuffs worn by Seán Hogan when he was rescued by the Tipperary Brigade IRA at Knocklong in 1919; experimental weapons made by the IRA; items used in escapes from the Lincoln, Mountjoy and Kilmainham prisons; and the propeller of the British airplane destroyed at Kilfinane, Co. Tipperary in 1921. The exhibition is supported by a wide range of multi-media. This includes contemporary newsreel film provided by the Irish Film Institute. The footage features stop and searches, funerals, IRA captures and destruction from the period between 1919 and 1923. Dr Maurice Manning, Chair of the Expert Advisory Group on Centenary Commemorations, said of the exhibition in a statement: “There are many different perspectives and views as to how these very complex events, and all whose lives were affected during this period, should be remembered. Throughout

‘Michael Collins’ Rosary’ The Irish Civil War divided former comrades on the future of the Irish State

the Decade of Centenaries, as a people, we have shown great maturity and understanding in exploring our past, embracing its complexities and nuances in an inclusive and respectful manner.” “Our National Cultural Institutions have a very important role in this process as custodians of our history and culture. They create opportunities for people of all ages and traditions to explore and reflect upon this divisive period in our history. The National Museum has delivered on this in this exhibition by presenting our history in that measured tone which is so essential.” Like all the museum’s exhibitions, entry to the Irish Wars 1919 – 1923 collection is free. For more information, visit www.museum.ie. MARCH 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.

Cork at night

Lismore Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes. County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles Reginald’s Tower

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you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy. One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and

there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’ and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.

IN TRANSIT

CRAWFORD ART GALLERY TO HOST A CRACKING NEW EXHIBITION

unning at the Crawford Art Gallery from March 6 to May 4, In Transit is a new exhibition exploring the stories of immigrants who traverse the no-man’s land that exists between home and hope. The exhibition spotlights various artists from around the world including Daniel Castro Garcia (UK), George Awde (US / Lebanon), Gohar Dashti (Iran), Stefanie Zofia Schulz (Germany) and Tanya Habjouqa (Jordan). A blend of photography and filmmaking, it focuses on the tentative limbo-like experience of living between different cultures. Curated by Peggy Sue Amison (former artistic director of the Sirius Arts Centre in Cobh) and in partnership with German museum Stadtgalerie Saarbrücken, In Transit is said to powerfully illustrate the physical and psychological challenges faced when fleeing from unsafe or economically depressed homelands, towards dreams of a more secure future. It looks at the deeper discussion of what constitutes citizenship in the 26

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wake of the enormous migrations into Europe. Through their narratives, the artists mentioned above strive to disrupt accepted misconceptions about immigration and otherness to tell a more accurate story. By collaborating with their subjects, they give voice to those who must endure mountains of dead time - filled with boredom, sadness, fear and apathy - while tangled up in bureaucracy in order to become more than merely ‘registered aliens’ or ‘tolerated’ people. The photography and video works of In Transit were created in Germany, Iran, Italy, Jordan and Lebanon. They are testimonies to day-to-day survival alongside the struggle to find a sense of normalcy, stability and a place to call home. The exhibition was initially showcased at Galleri Image in Aarhus, Denmark in 2016. It has since toured the US, visiting cities like Cambridge, Portland, San Diego and San Francisco. In Transit opens Friday, March 6 and runs until Monday, May 4 at the Crawford Art Gallery, after a preview

on Thursday, March 5 at 5.30pm where all are welcome to attend. A catalogue of the exhibition is available through Blue Sky Books and the Cork gallery during its run. For more information about In Transit, visit www.crawfordartgallery.ie/ in-transit-6-march.

Cobh Heritage Centre

The Queenstown Story Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events.

he exhibition at Cobh Heritage Centre, known as The Queenstown Story, is inventively situated within Cobh’s restored Victorian railway station, a building with its own historic story. The Queenstown Story will engage the visitor in a journey through time, recalling Irish emigration with real stories about real people. From the indentured servants of Virginia and the West Indies plantations in the 17th century, the early settlers in upper Canada, the famine victims of the 1840s to the large-scale emigration of the 19th and 20th centuries. The visitor will also discover the hardships endured by the convicts who were transported to Australia. The present town of Cobh has its origins as a small village nestled in the hillside on the southern shores. The village was known as Cove, being situated in the cove, or harbour, of Cork. The town did not begin to grow until the early nineteenth century, but its strategic importance was realised in the late eighteenth century during the American War of Independence. Vital shiploads of troops and supplies were needed by the British forces fighting in

America between 1775 and 1781. The entry of France into the war in 1778 heightened the danger of these ships being attacked at sea. This large and safe harbour provided ideal conditions in which the ships could assemble and be protected. The wars against France from the 1790s to 1815 were to prove the catalyst which led to the future prosperity of the town as Cove and its harbour played an important role in this war at sea. Cove went on to become a major port with both naval and merchant shipping and was one of the major ports of emigration. Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania discover the human stories behind these tragic events. The exhibition is a self-guided tour with audio tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Dutch, Polish and Chinese. It is not just interesting and educational, but very emotive and thought-provoking. “Take a glimpse into our storied past and walk in the footsteps of our emigrant ancestors”.

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Explore Explore Munster Munster

The Hunt Museum Cliffs of Moher Loop Head Lighthouse This popular tourist attraction is located at the mouth of the Shannon Estuary on the Loop Head Peninsula, which is one of two “Signature Discovery Points” in County Clare along the route of the Wild Atlantic Way. It also is a landmark location on the Loop Head Heritage Trail and is one of 12 Great Lighthouses of Ireland. The lighthouse is steeped in history and rich in maritime heritage with its origins dating back to the 1670s. The existing tower style lighthouse was constructed in 1854 and was operated and maintained by a keeper who lived within the lighthouse compound. In January 1991, the lighthouse was converted to automatic operation, and today is monitored by the CIL.Open daily (10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.) until 5 November.

The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Bunratty Castle

Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com

Titanic Experience Cobh

The Burren

Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.

Blarney Castle

The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again. 28

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Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912. The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.

Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.

www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie

Tel: 021 438 5252

Discover the Wonders of

Situated on the shores of the second largest natural harbour in the world, the tourist town of Cobh is only 25 minutes by car or train from Cork City. The town is steeped in history and culture, where every person, every pier and even the stunning architecture has a story to tell.

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - MARCH 2020

he Titanic’s last port of call before embarking on her fatal maiden voyage, Cobh is situated in the coastal playground that is Cork Harbour. Backed by rolling hills, it is a destination of choice for anyone who just loves to be by the sea. An abundance of tourist attractions and activities make Cobh the ideal spot for your next getaway; be it a day trip, overnight, weekend or longer break. There is plenty to see and do whatever your interests. Part of the beauty of visiting Cobh is that it is an all-weather destination. Ireland’s spring may be unpredictable, but the town has a great choice of

Cobh indoor activities so that showers can’t dampen your spirits. Amazing attractions such as Cobh Heritage Centre, Cobh Museum, Cobh Pastimes and the Coral Leisure Centre allow for year-round tourism in a dry and warm environment. The Titanic Trail Walking tour is also a must do activity when in Cobh. Nestled under the magnificent St. Colman’s Cathedral with its 49-bell carillon, Cobh looks out onto Spike Island. Accessed via ferry from Cobh, Spike Island was voted Europe’s Leading Tourist Attraction in the 2017 World Travel Awards. It has a long and compelling history with some great stories to be told during guided tours

around the island, fort, prison and newly constructed visitor centre. Just five minutes from Fota Island which contains Fota House & Gardens, Fota Wildlife Park and Fota Island Resort, Cobh and its surroundings will keep visitors busy throughout the year. Cobh has three hotels all boasting uninterrupted sea views, plenty of homely B&Bs and even a waterfront campervan park. There is plenty to choose from, catering to all needs and party sizes. Be you a lone traveller, an exploring couple, a fun-loving family or an adventure seeking group, there is accommodation and activities to suit everyone.

A myriad of festivals and events complement the views, scenery, attractions and activities. Cobh and Cork Harbour play host to the Sonia O’Sullivan Cobh 10 Mile Road Race on April 5 and the Jailbreak Triathlon on June 27. Meanwhile, the Cobh People’s Regatta takes place on the weekend of August 14 - 16, offering a feast of both water activities and landbased entertainment. The hills of Cobh may seem daunting but the houses of the “Deck of Cards” are worth seeking out for a unique photo opportunity. They are the most photographed feature of the town apart from the Cathedral and the town’s prolific summer flower displays.

Cobh may be steeped in history but there are also fun and unusual things to do there. Get on the water in a self-drive boat from Cork Harbour Boat Hire or dress up like in the olden days and be photographed in Cobh Pastimes Photography studio. You may come across ladies and gentlemen dressed in Victorian costumes from that era, they will be delighted to pose for photographs with visitors. Their warm welcome is just one of many awaiting visitors in Cobh. For more information about Cobh, visit www.visitcobh.com.

MARCH 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Bars in Munster

Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder, Irish Whiskey Experience

Ryans Bar

Developed by whiskey lovers as a first class destination for whiskey enthusiasts and novices alike. Guests will be amazed by shelf upon shelf of Irish, Scottish & international whiskies and a wide variety of Irish craft gin & vodka, craft beer and cider, eclectic wine list, and creative cocktail menu. Fresh, locally sourced food served daily. Irish Whiskey Experience offers the chance to discover more about the history, production & renaissance of Irish whiskey, with 10 masterclasses to choose from, running every day. 93 New Street Killarney, Co. Kerry Tel: +353646635700 www.celticwhiskeybar.com www.irishwhiskeyexperience.net

The Roaring Donkey

Perched up on “Top of The Hill” the Roaring Donkey is Cobh’s oldest traditional pub. Still original and oozing charm and authenticity the pub has been operating since 1880. It is known locally as the rugby pub but they do their best to accommodate most sports. A traditional music session has been running for nearly 40 years and is on every Wednesday night. Great craic guaranteed or enjoy a quiet pint in one of the finest beer gardens in town. The Roaring Donkey Tiknock, Cobh, Co. Cork Phone: (021) 481 1739

The Friary

Located by the river on the corner of Cork’s historic Shandon Street and North Mall, The Friary is a unique combination of old, new and eccentric. It's a homely craft beer bar with delicious gins and tonics. Look out for its astonishing range of special events; music, art, quizzes, the famous Drunk Spelling Bee, weird films, Penguin parties (really) and more! 62 Shandon St, Cork Tel: 087 668 0941

The Bierhaus

There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers. Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648 A friendly, family-run traditional Irish spot, Ryans Bar is one of Cobh’s most popular pubs, located right in the heart of town. Owned by Paul and Gemma O’Halloran for the last 21 years, the venue shows all live sports and features live music on the weekends, as well as occasional sessions midweek. On top of this, it boasts a real cozy feel in the Winter. This is thanks to its gorgeous, rustic open fire. 12 Casement Square, Cobh, Co. Cork (021) 481 1539

Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant

Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May. 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1)

The Original Durty Nelly’s

Durty Nelly’s can truly be described as one of Ireland’s landmark pubs. Nestling in the shadow of the magnificent Bunratty Castle, it is the first stopping off point for generations of visitors to Ireland arriving at nearby Shannon Airport. Apart from the warm Irish welcome that you’ll find at Nelly’s, you’ll also enjoy the finest, freshest local produce – whether you’re just dropping in for a snack or staying for a fine dining experience. The Original Durty Nelly's Bunratty West, Bunratty, Co. Clare +353 61 364 861 info@durtynellys.ie

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - MARCH 2020

Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Munster Room Restaurant

The Lobster Bar and Restaurant

options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City. Open Monday - Saturday 5.30pm until late (Open Bank Holiday Sundays) 2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie

The Smuggler’s Inn The 2-AA Rosette Munster Room Restaurant is located on the idyllic private island of Waterford Castle Hotel and Golf Resort. The Island is just minutes by car from Waterford city centre and accessible by complimentary Resort ferry. The Castle culinary team work passionately to create dishes with sublime flavour using high quality produce sourced from local suppliers, the kitchen’s vegetable patch and by foraging for what grows naturally on the 310-acre Island. The menu changes seasonally so guests can always savour the freshest ingredients. The Munster Room Restaurant’s oak-panelled walls, Waterford Crystal chandeliers and ornate ceilings match the luxurious surroundings of the 16th Century Castle hotel. Home to a fine Irish whiskey collection, an impressive wine cellar and signature cocktails, the elegant Fitzgerald Room bar is perfect for an aperitif or post-dinner drink. During the day, the Castle serves Afternoon Tea in the bright conservatory overlooking the lawns, with homemade pastries and desserts prepared by dedicated pastry chefs. The restaurant and hotel have made the lists for both McKennas’ Guides 100 Best Places to Stay 2019 and 101 Great Irish Restaurants 2019. They have also won Luxury Hotel of the Year 2019 and Munster Fine Dining Hotel of the Year 2019. Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort The Island, Ballinakill, Co Waterford X91 Y722 info@waterfordcastleresort.com 00353 (0)51 878 203 www.waterfordcastleresort.com

The Strand Inn

Delicious food and friendly service are what makes The Lobster a must visit on the Ring of Kerry. Established over 60 years ago, it’s a family run business steeped in history. On the front of the restaurant is a giant lobster holding a pint of Guinness which can’t be missed. Inside a warm welcome, a relaxing atmosphere and award-winning food awaits. The restaurant prides itself on its seafood, with whole poached lobster, beetroot cured salmon, local mussels and seafood chowder some of their signature dishes. Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 947 4629 www.thelobsterwaterville.com

Out of the Blue

Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330, www.thesmugglersinn.ie

Momo They serve only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment. Dingle Harbour. Tel: 066 915 0811

La Boheme

Overlooking Hook Head, The Strand Inn is the perfect place to enjoy lingering breakfasts, relax over a long lunch or enjoy intimate, romantic suppers. Diners can look forward to the finest Irish beef, lobster and line caught seafood in a luxurious setting, characterised by beamed ceilings, original stone walls and planked floors. Dunmore East, Co.Waterford. Tel: 051 383 174 www.thestrandinn.com

This ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. It’s not hard to see why as the Chef/Proprietor, Henry Hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. Panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience. For total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms.

La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu

Momo is a multi-award-winning restaurant in Waterford City, Ireland. They pride themselves on their fresh and healthy menu featuring ingredients from the local food producers of Waterford County. You will enjoy a wide range of international dishes including lots of vegetarian/vegan options as well as delicious meat and fish dishes. Momo featured in the McKennas’ Guides Top 100 Restaurants in Ireland 2018, 2017 and 2016, and won ‘Best Casual Dining’ in Munster at the Irish Restaurant Awards 2017. 47 Patrick Street, Waterford, Ireland. Call (051) 581 509 kamila@momorestaurant.ie

MARCH 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Cork to Host a Perfect Poetry Festival

Ireland’s largest annual festival dedicated to poetry, the 9th Cork International Poetry Festival will take place from March 24 - 28.

s part of the diverse programme, over 60 poets will partake in readings, including emerging talents and well-established writers from around the globe. As well as in English, there will be readings in Catalan, Chinese, German, Irish and Lithuanian. Many events are free, and none cost more than €5 to attend. All participating venues, meanwhile, are within walking distance from one another. During the festival, there will be workshops for aspiring poets who want to hone their craft and shape their work into a more publishable form. There will also be manuscript consultation sessions, awards presentations and new publication launches. To mark the centenary of Romanian-born German language poet Paul Celan, there will be a special event honouring him at the 2020 festival. It will feature the presentation of the first book of the writer’s poetry translated into Irish. One of the distinctions of the Cork International Poetry Festival is that it has presented for the first time in Europe North American writers who would later go on to establish international reputations. Keeping up with this tradition, guests this year include Catherine Barnett, Rigoberto Gonzalez and Carmen Gimenez Smith. There will also be a strong showing by Irish and British poets. Writers scheduled to make an appearance in 2020 at the festival include Griffin Prize winner Eilean Ni Chuilleanain, Forward Poetry Prize winner Jamie McKendrick and rising stars on the poetry scene Rachael Allen and Will Harris. This year for the first time, meanwhile, the event will see many young poets from Ireland’s recently established immigrant communities take part too. Another guest is Lithuanian poet Marius Burokas. The writer will present a reading of his poems in English translation to the general festival audience and a reading in his own language to the Cork Lithuanian community. 34

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The event has also commissioned some of the best poets writing in the Irish language to translate a selection of Marius’s work. The resulting dual-language chapbook will be distributed for free to the Lithuanian community in Ireland and to Irish language cafes and university departments. For more information on this year’s Cork International Poetry Festival, go to www.corkpoetryfest.net.

An Unmissable Experience! Cobh, The Queenstown Story An informative and emotive story of Irish emigration. Learn about Cobh’s connection with Titanic and the Lusitania. Cobh Heritage Centre, Cobh, Co. Cork, Ireland. Open 7 days 9.30 – 5.30 (Sundays 11am) Tel 353 (21) 4 813591 Find Cobh the Queenstown Story on Facebook

Email: info@cobhheritage.com Web: www.cobhheritage.com

CORK FRENCH Film Festival Returns

One of Cork’s longest running events, the 31st Cork French Film Festival will run from Wednesday, March 4 to Sunday, March 8 at The Gate Cinema. The festival will showcase some of the best movies France has to offer. It also features a highly anticipated programme for schools, an animated film aimed at children titled A Minuscule Adventure and some special postscreening social events. Cork French Film Festival’s opening night film is Proxima. From on-the-rise writer-director Alice Winocour, it stars Eva Green as an astronaut preparing for a potential mission to Mars and struggling to align single motherhood with the intense training schedule involved. Matt Dillon and Toni Erdmann actress Sandra Huller play supporting roles and much of the film was shot in real-life training facilities at the

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European Space Agency. The closing night film is The Truth, a 2019 French Japanese drama film written and directed by the acclaimed Hirokazu Koreeda. Centring on the problematic relationship between a famous actress (Catherine Deneuve) and her screenwriter daughter (Juliette Binoche), Ethan Hawke also stars in the filmmaker’s first film set outside of Japan and not in his native language. Speaking about the festival, the Ambassador of France in Ireland, H.E. Stéphane Crouzat, said in a statement: “In 1897, the Lumière brothers recorded the first ever images from Ireland. This footage marked the beginning of vibrant cinematographic ties between the

country and France.” “I’m delighted that the Alliance Française of Cork perpetuates this common history with its annual Cork French Film Festival, now in its 31st edition. The selection of films presented this year will showcase the diversity of a French cinema in tune with the times.” Other noteworthy films screening at the festival include comedy-drama Someone, Somewhere, ingenious thriller Only the Animals, Venice Film Festival prize-winning drama Gloria Mundi, dark comedy Deerskin starring Oscar-winner Jean Dujardin, 2020 Oscar nominee for best international feature Les Misérables and Jean-Luc Godard’s 1965 classic Pierrot le Fou. For more information about the Cork French Film Festival, visit www. corkfrenchfilmfestival.com.

Welcome to Connaught

Macnas Festival Parade This Fierce Beauty

The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Galway city

Connaught has some Carrick on Shannon of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park the present day without interruption. Croagh in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician must for all. Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, For those interested in a religious experience Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist custom of trekking up the mountain has been are reputed to have appeared. The apparition faithfully handed down from generation to was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the from six years to seventy-five and included picturesque town of Westport, and its conical men, women and children. The shrine has shape soars majestically above the surrounding become so popular in modern times that the countryside with magnificent views of Clew Ireland West International Airport was built Bay beneath. especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, Connaught. religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst The county also features the pilgrimage site an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered has it all. MARCH 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Theatre Cork Arts Theatre Julia

Presented by the Polish Arts Festival, Julia is the story of a women’s journey into her inner self through her life experiences. Her emotions on stage are presented in the form of a dancer and the voice of the soul is revealed by singing and music. The performance is bilingual (Polish – English).

Also at Lime Tree this month: What’s Just Happened Mar 4 – 5, Lost in Yonkers Mar 10 – 14, Creative Show Mar 12 – 13, #Whodunnit? Mar 26 – 27

Town Hall Theatre, Galway 3 Hail Marys

Mermaid Arts Centre, Wicklow One Love

Dates: Mar 22 Tel: 021 450 5624 or visit www.corkartstheatre.com Also at the Cork Arts Theatre: Beyond the Curtain Mar 13 – 21, Fxxx You Tyler Durden Mar 30 – Apr 1

Lyric Theatre, Belfast In the Name of the Son

This play charts the wrongly imprisoned Gerry Conlon’s remarkable journey into ‘freedom’ as he received and spent over £1million pounds and ran in the same circles as Johnny Depp, Shane McGowan and Daniel Day Lewis. But away from the glamour, his life was spiralling out of control. Plagued with the guilt of believing he was responsible for the death of his father in prison, Conlon struggled with powerful self-loathing. What emerges though from this darkness is the Belfast man’s resilience and eventual life-changing recovery to beat his demons and become a world-renowned Human Rights campaigner against miscarriages of justice, similar to his own.

One Love is a joyous exploration of friendship and what it’s like to be in love and have a learning disability. Paul and Orla are engaged and making plans for their future. The play charts their journey towards their big day. Dates: Mar 7 Tel: 01 272 4030 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie Also at the Mermaid Arts Centre this month: The Writing Life: Richie Sadlier Mar 6, The Ginger Ale Boy Mar 19 - 20

A rip-roaring comedy taking Ireland by storm, 3 Hail Marys centres on three characters named Mary who have lived in a nursing home together for over 10 years and have become great friends. However, due to circumstances beyond their control, they are being moved to three separate nursing homes. The play is set around their last few hours together as they decide to celebrate them in style. Dates: Mar 19 - 21 Tel: 091 569 777 or visit www.tht.ie Also at the Town Hall this month: The Cherry Orchard Feb 22 – Mar 7, Hansel and Gretel Mar 3, Queen of Technicolor – The Story of Maureen O’Hara Mar 4, Farmer Michael and Kathleen Mar 6, 9 to 5 Mar 10 – 15, The Mai Mar 18, Seminar Mar 19 – 21, Peppa Pig – Best Day Ever Mar 30 - 31

The Everyman, Cork

Watergate Theatre, Kilkenny

A wide-eyed stranger alights from a country train. The destination: Mr Knott’s house. The mission: to serve. The story of a nomadic manservant in the home of his unseen master, Samuel Beckett’s 1953 novel comes to the stage in a one-man production starring one of the greatest interpreters of the legendary writer in the world – Barry McGovern.

This one-woman show marks the centenary of legendary Irish actress Maureen O’Hara who was born in 1920. Star of Hollywood’s golden age, she played roles that often mirrored her true persona as a tough, feisty and courageous woman. Written and performed by Elaine O’ Dwyer, this is an intimate journey with Maureen, revealing the person she was behind the limelight.

Dates: Mar 10 - 12 Tel: 021 450 1673 or visit www.everymancork.com

Dates: Mar 21 Tel: 056 7761674 or visit www.watergatetheatre.ie

Also at the Everyman this month: Keith Barry – Insanity Mar 13, The Crucible Mar 18 – 19, The Morning After the Life Before Mar 24 – 25, Lords of Strut: Absolute Legends Mar 28, Faulty Towers The Dining Experience Mar 31 – Apr 4

Also at the Watergate this month: Alice and the Wolf Mar 4 – 9, Innit Mar 27

Watt

Dates: Mar 17 - 29

Queen of Technicolour – The Story of Maureen O’Hara

Tel: +44 (0)28 9038 1081 or visit www.lyrictheatre.co.uk Also at the Lyric Theatre this month: Shirley Valentine Feb 27 – Mar 15, The Untold Truth of Captain Hook Mar 6 – 8, The Right Twig Mar 9, Wonders of the Wake Mar 14 – 15, Sauce Mar 27 - 28

Lime Tree Theatre, Limerick Circle of Friends

Adapted from the 1990 coming-of-age novel by Maeve Binchy, big-hearted Benny Hogan, an adored only daughter, and little orphan Eve Malone, are best friends in the small rural town of Knockglen. On their first day at University College Dublin, their lives are turned upside down when they are introduced to the beautiful and sophisticated, Nan Mahon, and the handsome, Jack Foley. Dates: Mar 31 – Apr 3 Tel: 061 953 400 or visit www.limetreetheatre.ie 38

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - MARCH 2020

East Asia Film Festival Ireland Returns to the IFI

eturning for its fourth edition, the East Asia Film Festival Ireland (EAFFI) once again celebrates the artistry and variety of filmmaking from East Asia over four days from March 26 – 29. Following the historic success of Bong Joon Ho’s Parasite at this year’s Oscars, interest in cinema from the region has never been stronger. This year’s programme includes new films from prominent filmmakers Wang Xiaoshuai, Kôji Fukada and Hong Khaou and a 35mm screening of Bong’s 2006 blockbuster The Host. Eight theatrical Irish premieres will screen throughout the festival, which opens with Fukada’s latest A Girl Missing. It tells the story of a care-worker who becomes embroiled in the case of a missing girl. Part of the programme is touching drama Heavy Craving from director Hsieh Pei-Ju. It centres on the burgeoning friendship between an overweight school cook, a young deliveryman and a crossdressing primary school student. Another film to be screened is crime

drama The Wild Goose Lake. Set on the outskirts of Wuhan, it follows a smalltime gang leader who must flee when he accidentally kills a police officer. Hong Khaou’s English-Vietnamese Monsoon, starring Henry Golding of Crazy Rich Asians fame, sees a man return to Ho Chi Minh City for the first time since he was six. There, romance sparks when he meets an American fashion designer whose father fought in the Vietnam War. Finishing out the festival will be Pema Tseden’s acclaimed tale of a truck driver and a vengeful hitchhiker, Jinpa, produced by Wong Kar-Wai, and Liang Ming’s Wisdom Tooth, a complex drama centred on a brother and sister whose livelihoods are upended by an environmental disaster. Tickets for the East Asia Film Festival Ireland are available now at www.ifi.ie/ eaffi-2020, where you can see the full programme, or by calling the IFI Box Office on 01-6793477. A multi-film pass, 5 films for €50, is also available directly from the IFI Box Office. More information can also be found from www.eaffi.ie. MARCH 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Venice Italian Restaurant

This is somewhere special to spend the evening, with a relaxing atmosphere and fine dining at its best. Experience Venice’s fine Italian cuisine, with their distinctive taste and beautiful aromas you’ll be sure to have those tastebuds tickled. With stylish facilities, they offer an elegant dining experience that their attention to detail and exceptional service will ensure. Venice is the best Italian restaurant in Galway City Centre and boasts a wide range of tasty Italian dishes. 11 Lower Abbeygate St, Galway City Phone: 091 530-751. Email: restaurantvenice@yahoo.ie

Eala Bhán

Péarla na Mara offer Irish-inspired cuisine with a Mediterranean touch in their restaurant in Oranmore. Using only the finest ingredients, locally sourced in the West and delivered daily specialising in fish, seafood, meat and poultry dishes, along with mouth-watering vegetarian dishes. Pair your meal with wines chosen from the carefully selected wine list. You are welcome to bring your own bottle of wine for a nominal corkage fee of €5 for any amount of wine bottles. Unit 10, Howley Square, Dublin Road, Oranmore Tel: 091 483900 Email: info@pearlanamara.ie

Brasserie on the Corner

Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823

Brasserie on the Corner on Galway’s Eglinton Street specialises in delectable seafood and steak dishes. They serve lunch and dinner and both menus are created with local, seasonal produce at their heart. These delicious offerings are created using produce from local suppliers. You will also be treated to an extensive and delicious wine and cocktail menu. You will truly find pride and passion on the plate!

The Yew Tree Restaurant

Brasserie On The Corner, Eglinton Street, Galway, Ireland Tel: +353 91 530333

If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell.

Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food. Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255

An Port Mór Restaurant

Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West. 1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730

Ashford Castle

Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906. Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003

Upstairs @ West Restaurant

Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit. The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000 40

Péarla na Mara

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - MARCH 2020

Recommended Bars in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)

Monroe's

Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.

This famous venue in the heart of Galway city is renowned as one of the best live music venues in the city. Across two stages, they host regular National & International acts. The friendly staff will assure you of a warm welcome and they serve great food in the Tavern along with free live music seven days a week.

17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820

The Front Door

Dominick Street, Galway 091 583397 www.monroes.ie

Bosh Bar and Restaurant

Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar. Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534

Matt Malloy’s One of Galway city’s most popular watering holes, The Front Door is a contemporary Irish bar with a late bar, live music and an extensive drinks menu. Located in Galway’s bustling Latin Quarter and spread across two floors The Front Door features five bars, including a stylish cocktail lounge and Sonny Molloy’s Whiskey Bar. The Front Door is the perfect spot to sample Galway’s nightlife. 8 Cross Street Upper, Galway, H91 YY06 Tel: (091) 563 757

This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within. Bridge St., Westport Tel: 098 26655

The Quays Bar Galway

Roísín Dubh

It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now! Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540

Located in the city centre in Galway’s vibrant ‘Latin Quarter’ The Quays Bar Galway is one of Galway’s most famous and historic drinking establishments. For close on 400 years The Quays has catered to both Galwegians and visitors to the city of Galway. The restaurant offers a carvery lunch and evening a la carte dinner. The Quays was awarded IMRO Connacht Live Music Venue of the year 2017. 11 Quay St, Galway Tel: (091) 568 347 MARCH 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Shopping Powerscourt Centre

Located in Dublin’s Creative Quarter on the bustling South William Street is the Powerscourt Centre. Housed in a stunning Georgian townhouse, the Powerscourt Centre has over 40 shops and restaurants and offers shoppers a wonderful city centre shopping experience. The centre offers a range of fashion stores, such as All Saints, French Connection and Mary Grant and if antiques are your thing then the Powerscourt Centre is the place to go. There are a number of antique stores in the centre, including Courtville Antiques, Delphi Antiques, Lilly Fine Art, The Silver Shop and Monte Cristo. If you’re planning a wedding in the near future, the Centre also offers a number of superb wedding outlets www.powerscourtcentre.ie

Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre Located at the top of Grafton Street, in the heart of Dublin city centre, Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre hosts a wide variety of top retailers. Household names such as Dunnes Stores, Argos, Boots, Eason, United Colors of Benetton, Mothercare, Elverys, Golden Discs and TK Maxx can be found here. When you’re finished shopping, you can relax in one of the many lovely cafes, head for a pint in one of the many nearby pubs, or take a stroll across the road in St Stephen’s Green. www.stephensgreen.com

Jam Art Factory

Courtville: Antique & Vintage Jewellers

Courtville is a traditional Dublin shop with a friendly atmosphere, in business over 50 years and based in the Antique Gallery within the Historic Powerscourt Townhouse. Their collection of vintage, antique and estate jewellery are sure to capture your imagination. They are envisioning a more personal, accessible and enjoyable world to trade fine jewellery and engagement rings. Authenticity is guaranteed on every piece. Instagram: @matthew.weldons Antique Gallery - Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, 59 South William Street, Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (1) 6794042

Tights Department Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear. They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks.

Celtic Whiskey Shop

Ireland’s premier Irish whiskey specialists with a remarkable selection of beloved, rare and hard to find bottlings and shop exclusives. It boasts a knowledgeable and friendly staff who are proud and passionate about products, and are always on hand to offer advice. Feel free to pop in where we serve up in-store whiskey tastings all day everyday! If you're travelling, our staff can either wrap your purchases in protective wrapping or arrange shipping to national and international destinations. 27 – 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6759744 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com

Mourne Antiques

Unit 108, 1st Floor, Stephen's Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2, Ireland D02 VF67 Shop online: www.tightsdepartment.ie (deliver worldwide)

Designer Exchange

Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row. 64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 www.JamArtFactory.com and www.JamArtPrints.com 42

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Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vuitton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands. 53 Dawnson Street, Dublin 2. 35 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd

Mourne Antiques have been operating in the thriving town of Letterkenny for 25 years. They offer a range of beautiful antiques, such as ceramics, silver, furniture and collectables, all with their own particular history and charm. You could find anything from a rare book to a mink coat! They specialise in a wide range of jewellery. From Victorian gold and precious stone pieces to Contemporary diamond and Engagement rings to 1940’s costume jewellery, their stock is sure to please. 38 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny, Co. Donegal 074 9126457 www.mourneantiques.com

Recommended Shopping The Donegal Shop

The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products. The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists. Mention Travel Ireland to get a 10% discount 2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com

James Fox

Puro

Puro offers innovative collections of contemporary urban-wear and luxury sneakers from emerging talents as well as world renowned designers. Brands include Pal Zileri, Joop!, Baldessarini, Guess, Philippe Model, Gold Brothers, Android Homme, Mallet and many more. Puro is the only Irish stockist of many of these brands and while we feel a visit to this beautiful store is a must to truly appreciate the collections, you can also shop or browse first online at puromenswear.com 34 Wicklow Street, Dublin, Ireland info@puro.ie Call (01) 558 1406

The Kilkenny Shop

Amelia’s Irish Design

Amelia’s is home to a selection of beautiful gallery pieces that are perfect for the home or a present for someone special. They stock a range of art and studio ceramics lovingly handcrafted by makers from all over the country, specialising in local makers from the North-West of Ireland. There are little gifts and keepsakes for the everyday too! All pieces are handpicked by owner Frances Spears. She has over 20 years experience in the design and antiques business so you know you’re in good hands when you pay a visit to Amelia’s Irish Design. 29 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny Co. Donegal 087 2434060 www.amelias.ie

Mackintosh by Francis Campelli

Mackintoshes were first produced in Ireland in 1889 and Francis Campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium most experienced hands for Irish designed products; from fashion and when you visit this store. jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and They offer the finest crystal. For over five decades, the Kilkenny Shop has quality, waterproof been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top Mackintoshes for men designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen and women from stock or made to measure Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce. from €485, as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories. 6 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 6777066 www.kilkennyshop.com 46 South William Street, Dublin 2 01 6088608 Irish Linen House www.franciscampelli.com

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For over 135 years, James Fox Cigar and Whiskey Store has been Dublin’s focal point for lovers of Irish whiskey and premium Cuban cigars. Here you will find Ireland’s largest selection of handmade Cuban cigars, including rare and vintage stock. James Fox also stock a large range of premium Irish whiskeys and spirits to satisfy the most discerning palates. Tax-Free shopping available in-store and online. 119 Grafton Street, Dublin 2, Ireland. Tel: (01) 677 0533 Email: info@jamesfox.ie Website: www.jamesfox.ie

Irish Linen House is a family-run brand creating tableware from the finest sustainable Irish linen and telling stories through intricately embroidered designs. Handcrafted in Dublin, the collection celebrates Irish roots with hand-drawn artwork inspired by Ireland’s natural beauty and heritage. Shop the collection on www.irishlinenhouse. com or visit the Irish Linen House studio and gift shop located beside the Jameson Distillery in Smithfield.

This charming store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland. They stock homeware from around the world, including Irish designers - with everything from Irish woollen throws, glass vases and stationery on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice.

Irish Linen House, Bow St, Smithfield, Dublin D07 AY86 +353 86 033 9979

Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2 01 679 9268 www.articledublin.com MARCH 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Explore Connaught

Dún Aonghasa

Westport House

Kylemore Abbey Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic Victorian walled garden, which won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food.

Located on Inismór in the Aran Islands, Dún Aonghasa is one of the best examples of a semi-circular stone fort in Europe. Located on the 300ft cliffside on the south of the island, it is one of Ireland’s most visited attractions and offers stunning views that stretch the length of the island.

Arigna Mining Experience Discover what coal mining life was like for coal miners in the Arigna Valley in Roscommon from the 1700’s until its closure in 1990. Visit the exhibition area to discover the history of the mine and then take an underground tour of the mine, where the methods used to extract coal are demonstrated, with lighting and sound effects added for authenticity.

Mullaghmore

National Museum of Ireland - Country Life The National Museum of Ireland - Country Life in Turlough Park, Castlebar houses exhibits showing how rural people in Ireland lived from the time of the Great Famine right up until the 1950s. The museum features four levels of interactive displays and exhibitions that offer a fascinating insight into the lives of the rural Irish people in years gone by.

Connemara Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Surfers and windsurfers from all over the world have ridden waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable. 44

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Connemara is a world of unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the north through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean.

Westport House is one of the finest country houses in Ireland. Since it opened to the public in the 1960s, over 4 million have passed through its doors. Today it has over 30 rooms on show and six excellent exhibitions. Visitors can immerse themselves in over 500 years of history, going back to when the Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley ruled the estate. There is loads for the whole family to enjoy at Westport House including the Pirate Adventure Park and the beauty and grandeur of the surrounding 400 acres of gardens. www.westporthouse.ie.

Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside, offering spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding countryside. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year.

Welcome to Ulster

The Giants Causway Photo: @storytravelers The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise. County Donegal is in the northwest of the

‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.

new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Mount Errigal

Belfast Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or

County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the

Linsfort Church, Co. Donegal MARCH 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox

Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.

The Ginger Bistro

Coco

1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121

55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers. 1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811

The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger. 7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421

Deane’s Restaurant

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150

Shu

They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table. 253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655

Vanilla Restaurant

Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.

Telfords Restaurant

Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268

Lough Erne Resort

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000

Sun Kee Restaurant

One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. 42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics. 36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134

Sakura

In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant. 82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590

Speranza Restaurant

This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

Lusty Beg

This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300

16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213

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Recommended Bars in Ulster The Crown Liquor Saloon

Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin. 51 Donegall St., Belfast Tel: 028 9023 3768

White’s Tavern

Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down. 2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3080

Kelly’s Cellars Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food. 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3187

This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city. 30-32 Bank St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 6058

The Duke Of York

The John Hewitt

One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further. 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 1062

Peadar O’Donnell’s

There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore. Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry. 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry Tel: 028 7126 7295 MARCH 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

BELFAST Film Festival turns

This April, Belfast Film Festival celebrates its 20th anniversary with nine days packed full of new international film, special guests and film inspired events in venues across the Northern Irish capital. Kicking off on Wednesday, April 1 until Thursday, April 9, Belfast Film Festival will play host to an array of films including the Irish premiere of the hotly anticipated Our Ladies. This is an infectious 1990s-set comedy drama that finds six teenage choirgirls cutting loose in Edinburgh, in a loving adaptation of Alan Warner’s novel The Sopranos. The programme will showcase new feature films from around the world. Examples of these are Mark Cousins’ epic

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14-hour Women Make Film, an exploration of cinema history through the lens of some of the world’s greatest directors - all women; Arracht, a tense Irish drama/thriller set in 1845 on the eve of The Great Hunger from director Tom Sullivan; and Adam, Moroccan director Maryam Touzani’s impressive first feature which made its international debut at last year’s Cannes Film Festival. Movie fans can expect the usual range of the weird and wonderful in the popular Altered States

strand and live and interactive film inspired events including Footloose in the Titanic Ballroom and Flash Gordon at 40. The programme is brimming with special guests. One of these is John Lloyd, the BAFTA winning producer behind Blackadder and The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy. Many more names are to be announced in the coming days. With Northern Ireland’s film industry booming at the moment, Belfast Film Festival is the top event in the diary for movie enthusiasts and industry experts to join and celebrate film in all its genres. The full programme is available at www. belfastfilmfestival.org from Thursday, March 5.

Explore Ulster

Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end.

The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there. In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value.

Dunluce Castle With a rich history, in a stunning, location, Dunluce Castle on the coast of Antrim is just waiting to be explored. Visitor information includes an audio visual tour of the castle, with a ‘treasure hunt’ encouraging younger visitors to explore. You can also download a Dunluce Castle app for iPhone and Android devices, available free of charge from the App Store and Google Play.

The Old Bushmills Distillery Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens.

Ulster American Folk Park Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories. Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier.

Down County Museum Situated next to the Down Cathedral, the Down County Museum houses modern galleries telling the stories of the area and fantastic temporary exhibitions. Learn about the museum’s history as a gaol and see the Downpatrick High Cross before relaxing in their new Cathedral View Tea Room.

Belleek Pottery One of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages.

Glenveagh National Park The second largest national park in Ireland, Glenveagh is a remote and beautiful wilderness in the north-west of Donegal. Full of rugged mountains, pristine lakes and tumbling waterfalls. Visitors can also take a tour of Glenveagh Castle on the banks of Lough Veagh and take a walk through the beautiful walled gardens, which boast a multitude of exotic plant.

Florence Court Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours. MARCH 2020 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

Great Irish Writers

BRENDAN BEHAN

rendan Behan was a colourful character, renowned almost as much for his drinking exploits as his writing. He even once described himself as “a drinker with writing problems.” While this may have helped him gain a degree of notoriety, it should not take away from his legacy as one of Ireland’s greatest writers and poets. Born into a staunchly Republican family in Dublin in 1923, the young Brendan was exposed to great literature from an early age. His father Stephen, a house painter, used to read the works of Zola, Galsworthy and Maupassant among others to his children. Stephen had also taken part in the Irish War of Independence, as did his wife and Brendan’s mother Kathleen. She was a close friend of Michael Collins and remained politically active throughout her life. Coming from such a background, it is perhaps not surprising that Brendan joined the IRA’s youth wing Fianna Éireann at 14, before going on to join the IRA at 16. His first poems were published in Fianna Éireann’s magazine Fianna: The Voice of Young Ireland. Yet his involvement with the IRA would lead to his incarceration when he was caught on an unauthorised solo mission to blow up the Liverpool docks. He was sentenced to three years in Hollesley Bay Borstal and would not return to Ireland until 1941. His experiences during this time would serve as the inspiration for his famous memoir Borstal Boy. This was not Behan’s last brush

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with prison. In 1942, he was tried for the attempted murder of two Garda detectives and sent to Mountjoy Prison and the Curragh Camp. Behan was released under a general amnesty in 1946 and once again his time in prison would have an influence on his writing. His first play The Landlady was penned while he was in Mountjoy. It was also there Behan became fluent in the Irish language. He would later write in both Irish and English. Following his release from prison, Behan spent time in Galway and Kerry, as well as Paris, where legend has it he earned a living from writing pornography. Although he still drank heavily, he was disciplined in his writing and woke at 7am every morning and wrote until noon when the pubs opened. His breakthrough came with the release of his play The Quare Fellow in 1954. It was a huge success, running in Dublin and the West End in London. Behan managed to generate publicity for the play with a drunken appearance on the Malcolm

Muggeridge television show in the UK, which cemented his image as the drunken rebellious Irish writer. Unfortunately, Behan would only live for 10 more years after this. His heavy drinking led to him developing diabetes and he regularly suffered diabetic seizures and comas. This affected his work and although Borstal Boy was released to great acclaim in 1958, his later work was not as well received. In March 1964, he collapsed in the Harbour Lights and died at the age of just 41. Despite his short life, Behan left a large body of influential books, plays, poetry, as well as music. The latter includes the iconic song ‘The Auld Triangle’ which featured in The Quare Fellow and has regularly been performed by artists, such as Once star Glen Hansard. His work has also influenced artists as diverse as The Pogues, the Dropkick Murphys, Dexys Midnight Runners and Morrissey. To this day, Behan is remembered as one of the greatest and most colourful writers of the 20th century.

Travel Ireland Volume 6 Issue 71

Articles inside

Great Irish Writers

Explore Ulster

Ulster Restaurants

Belfast Film Festival

Ulster Bars

Explore Connaught

Welcome to Ulster

Shopping

Connaught Bars

Welcome to Connaught

Connaught Restaurants

East Asia Film Festival Ireland

Theatre – Rest of Ireland

Cork International Poetry Festival

Munster Restaurants

Munster Bars

Cobh

Explore Munster

Welcome to Munster

Leinster Restaurants

Crawford Art Gallery Exhibition

National Museum Exhibition

Leinster Bars

Explore Leinster

Franco-Irish Literary Festival

Welcome to Leinster

Kilkenny Tradfest

Faith Healer – Abbey Theatre

Theatre – Dublin

St. Patrick by Pat Liddy

St. Patrick’s Festival