Travel Ireland Volume 6 Issue 67

Travelireland ireland magazine

Volume 6 Issue 67 November 2019

Gaiety Panto to Take Audiences on

Magical Ride

Travel Through Time

with Armagh Georgian Festival Bord Gais Opera Set to be a Ball

Mayo Museum

is National Treasure

See 3 of This Year’s Best Films for Free New Waterford Gallery’s

Excellent Exhibition

Irishman Kayaks River Shannon for Charity Swan Lake to Pirouette Nationwide

Pat Liddy Talks

Jonathan Swift

Wicklow Festival Spins Some Yarns for 10th Year

CONTENTS

4 Welcome to Leinster 6 Aladdin – Gaiety Panto 8 Swan Lake 10 Theatre 12 Jonathan Swift by Pat Liddy 14 YARN Storytelling Festival 16 National Museum of Ireland 18 Explore Leinster 19 Leinster Bars 20 Leinster Restaurants 22 Cinderella 24 Welcome to Munster 26 Munster Restaurants 28 Munster Bars 30 Explore Munster 31 Cobh Heritage Centre 32 Shopping 34 Cork Film Festival – Lux Prize 35 Waterford Gallery of Art 36 Welcome to Connaught 38 Shannon 300 40 Connaught Restaurants 41 Connaught Bars 42 Explore Connaught 44 Welcome to Ulster 45 Ulster Bars 46 Ulster Restaurants 48 Explore Ulster 49 Armagh Georgian Festival 50 Great Irish Writers

Ellen Media Communications Ltd Suite 4, Talbot Business Centre, 19 Talbot St , Dublin 1.

Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag

Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome to our November issue!

Whether this is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here.

In our latest issue, we shine a spotlight on some fantastic events happening across the country. These include the YARN Storytelling Festival, the Armagh Georgian Festival, the Jonathan Swift Festival and how you can see some free movies at the Cork Film Festival, courtesy of the Lux Prize.

We also give readers the low down on the best theatre to see – including the Gaiety Theatre’s panto Aladdin and ballet Swan Lake and the Bord Gais’ opera Cinderella. Meanwhile, the magazine speaks to a man who kayaked 300km down the River Shannon for charity and highlights the new Waterford Gallery of Art and the National Museum of Ireland’s Country Life branch in Mayo.

Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heartfelt céad míle fáilte and hope you enjoy your stay.

Taisteal sásta (Happy Travels).

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Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Stephen Porzio (stephen@ellenmediacom.ie) Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Contributors: Pat Liddy, Angeline Le Mercier, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’ , Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin, Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael McLaughlin, Roma Keeley.

We wish to record our thanks to Michael Bates, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition.

We would also like to thank Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and 10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images.

Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.

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Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see.

County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife.

All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city.

If you want to escape to the country without

GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country.

County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible

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Phoenix Park, Dublin through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre.

The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach.

County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions.

Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland.

Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world.

Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College.

Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone.

Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ

St Kevin’s Church, Glendalough

All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land.

Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the

smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June.

Laois is where you can try your hand at a

Round Tower, Glendalough range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum.

Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor.

Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base.

Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula.

So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!

Are you free? so are we!

Free admission to the greatest collections of Irish heritage, culture and history in the world.

Kildare Street, Dublin 2.

Merrion Street, Dublin 2.

Benburb Street, Dublin 7.

Turlough Park, County Mayo.

Outreach Events, Guided Tours & Lectures.

Museum Shops & CafĂŠs.

Open: Sunday & Monday 1pm to 5pm.

Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 5pm.

Closed: Christmas Day & Good Friday.

For further information: Tel: +353 (0) 1 6777 444 Email: info@museum.ie Visit: www.museum.ie

Aladdin

Gaiety Panto to Take Audiences on a Magical Ride

It wouldn’t be Christmas without a visit to the Gaiety Panto. As such, the theatre is inviting people to take a magical carpet ride on this year’s pantomime, Aladdin, from November 24, 2019 until January 5, 2020.

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Based on a story from Middle Eastern folk tale compilation One Thousand and One Nights, Aladdin is an Arabian tale of true love, magic wishes and dastardly dealings that this year’s Panto organisers say will excite and delight all ages. According to them, the show boasts ‘the extra helping of song, dance, slapstick and laughter’ that you would come to expect from the Gaiety’s festive extravaganza.

The plot synopsis reads: “The mystical Cave of Desire holds the magic lamp that can only be recovered by one of true heart. Our hero Aladdin is tricked by his devious Uncle into retrieving the mysterious object.”

“From there, we

enter a world of wonder and awe as the Genie of the Lamp makes this young hero’s wishes come true. However, be careful what you wish for as you may end up with more than you bargained for...!”

With a stellar cast of returning favourites including Joe Conlan as Widow Twankey and Nicholas Grennell as Abanazer, the show will also introduce audiences to West End talent Julian Capolei as Aladdin and Suzie Seweify as Princess Jasmine. Meanwhile, Daryn Crosbie is back to direct.

This panto version of Aladdin is arriving hot on the heels of the Disney liveaction adaptation of the story which was released last summer. Directed by Guy Ritchie and starring Will Smith as the

genie, the film grossed over $1 billion dollars worldwide.

That said, kids may already be familiar with the tale through Disney’s 1992 animated take on Aladdin. Boasting a legendary voice performance from comedian Robin Williams as the genie, the film was a critical and commercial success.

For those visiting or newly arrived in Ireland, panto stands for pantomime and is a form of theatre developed in Western culture.

Aimed at children and often taking place during the Christmas and New Year season, it employs gender-crossing actors and combines topical humour with a story based on a well-known fairy tale, fable or folk tale.

Modern pantomime includes songs, gags, slapstick comedy and dancing and is a participatory form of theatre, in which the audience is expected to sing along with certain parts of the music and shout out phrases to the performers.

The Gaiety Theatre has hosted their Christmas Panto every year since 1873, cementing the show as an important part of Irish culture.

The event always generates plenty of publicity and interest. As the Gaiety note, families often come from far and wide to see it and for many the show has become as much of a family Christmas tradition as Santa himself.

Recent stories given the panto treatment by the theatre include Little Red Riding Hood, Peter Pan, Rapunzel and Robin Hood.

The Gaiety will have to work hard to top last year’s take on The Snow Queen which earned great reviews. The Irish Mail on Sunday called it a ‘visually spectacular display’ and ‘first-class performance’ Meanwhile, the Irish Times said: ‘sheer spectacle ... panto is not just for kids anymore’ and the Irish Mirror called it: “One you definitely won’t want to miss! ...

Exceptional” Tickets are on sale now and cost from €19.50, including the booking fee and restoration levy. They can be bought in person at the Gaiety Theatre box office and at Ticketmaster outlets, over the phone by calling 08 18 719 388 and online by visiting Ticketmaster.ie.

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e k a L n Swa to Pirouette Nationwide

T

As Ballet Ireland celebrates its 21st anniversary, the national ballet company will present their nationwide tour of Swan Lake, in association with EY.

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he iconic love story has captivated audiences for decades. It will tour 19 theatres throughout Ireland from Wednesday, November 6 to Sunday, December 22, including dates at Dublin’s Gaiety Theatre from November 13 – 16.

Fashioned from Russian and German folk tales, Swan Lake tells the story of Odette, a beautiful princess, who is turned into a swan by day by evil magician Von Rothbart, only to regain her human form at night. Out hunting by the lakeside, Prince Siegfried encounters her and falls madly in love with her. But will he be able to break Von Rothbart’s spell?

Composed by Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky, Swan Lake first premiered in 1877 at the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow. To this day, its legacy has endured, with the ballet’s tale of love and tragedy; good and evil, as well as Tchaikovsky’s majestic and romantic score, enthralling generations of audiences.

Accompanied by Swan Lake’s already iconic music, organisers say Ballet Ireland’s take on the show will boast classic technique and ethereal imagery. 22 international world class dancers will perform the breath-taking production which was beloved by audiences and critics alike when last produced by Ballet Ireland.

Speaking about the show, Frank O’Keeffe, managing partner of EY Ireland, said in a statement: “EY is delighted to be the official sponsor of Ballet Ireland’s nationwide tour of Swan Lake on the 21st anniversary of the national ballet company.”

“EY global has a long history of supporting the arts.

Our corporate purpose is to build a better working world. It’s at the core of all we do and the decisions we make. We are proud to support the arts and to help make world class productions like this more accessible to audiences right around Ireland.”

Tickets are on sale now for the Gaiety Theatre show and cost from €26. They can be bought in person at the Gaiety Theatre box office and at Ticketmaster outlets, over the phone by calling 08 18 719 388 and online by visiting Ticketmaster.ie.

For the full list of dates for the nationwide tour, see below. Prices vary depending on venues. See individual locations for details.

Tour Dates

arket Place Theatre, Armagh – Wednesday, November 6 M Theatre at the Mill, Newtownabbey - Thursday, November 7 n The Burnavon, Cookstown – Friday, November 8 n Millennium Forum, Derry - Saturday, November 9 n The Gaiety Theatre, Dublin - Wednesday, November 13 – Saturday, November 16 n Town Hall Theatre, Galway – Monday, November 18 – Tuesday, November 19 n Watergate Theatre, Kilkenny – Thursday, November 21 n n

raíocht, Blanchardstown – Friday, November 22 – Saturday, D November 23 n Backstage Theatre, Longford - Tuesday, November, 26 n National Opera House, Wexford – Friday, November 29 n The Source Arts Centre, Thurles - Sunday, December 1 n The Civic, Tallaght – Tuesday, December 3 – Wednesday, December 4 n L ime Tree Theatre, Limerick – Friday, December 6 – Saturday, December 7 n VISUAL, Carlow - Sunday, December 8 n Solstice Arts Centre, Navan – Tuesday, December 10 – Wednesday, December 11 n g lór, Ennis - Thursday, December 12 - Friday, December 13 n Siamsa Tíre, Tralee - Saturday, December 14 n An Grianán Theatre, Letterkenny - Wednesday, December 18 n Mermaid Arts Centre, Bray - Friday, December 20 – Sunday, December 22 n

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Theatre Mermaid Arts Centre

Also at the Gate this month: Faultline Sep 26 – Dec 1, Pale Sister by Colm Toibin Oct 31 – Nov 9

As part of the venue’s YARN Storytelling Festival (for more see page 14), join Niall de Búrca in Mermaid for an evening of traditional and contemporary stories including ‘The Tale of Mary McAteer’. Moving to County Wicklow to work at Dell, one day Mary uncovers an object while walking along the beach that sparks a series of decisions from which there is no return.

Pavilion Theatre

Hooley of Tales by Niall de Búrca

Dates: Nov 15 Tel: 01 272 4030 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie Also at the Mermaid Arts Centre this month: Guest Host Stranger Ghost Nov 8, Susie and the Story Shredder Nov 12, Crowman Nov 21

Bord Gáis Energy Theatre Cinderella | La Cenerentola

Irish National Opera are bringing Gioachino Rossini’s La Cenerentola, his operatic take on the classic fairy-tale Cinderella, to the Bord Gais stage.

Irish singer Tara Erraught will play the title figure, a signature role of hers which she has performed for over 13 years in cities like Hamburg, Munich, Vienna and Washington. When asked at a launch party for the show Travel Ireland attended if she ever tires of the part, the singer replied: “You can’t be sick of her. Our second show will be my 30th so it’s the right time to bring it home. You don’t bring things home until they are really ready.” For more information, see page 22.

Class by Iseult Golden and David Horan

Having received rave reviews and standing ovations, Class is going on tour across Ireland due to phenomenal demand. The play centres on a parentteacher meeting that goes very wrong. The synopsis reads: “Brian and Donna’s son is nine years old, and he’s struggling.

That’s what his teacher says. Says he should see a psychologist. But Brian and Donna – recently separated – never liked school, never liked teachers. So, are they going to trust this one? And should they?” As well as playing at the Pavilion Theatre in Dún Laoghaire, the show will tour across Ireland throughout November, including other Dublin venues Axis in Ballymun (Nov 20), Civic in Tallaght (Nov 25 – 26) and Draiocht in Blanchardstown (Nov 29 – 30) Dates: Nov 21 - 23 Tel: 01 231 2929 or visit www.paviliontheatre.ie Also at the Pavilion this month: Emigrants Nov 9, Out of Sight…Out of Murder Nov 13 – 16, Madhouse Nov 19 – 20, In the Window Nov 29

The Gaiety Theatre

Dates: Nov 10 - 16 Tel: 01 677 7999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie

shows. The first is The Haunted Host, the Irish premiere of this riotous comedy which - debuting a half decade before the Stonewall Riots of 1969 – is seen as one of many artistic catalysts that propelled the early Gay Rights Movement in the US. The second, meanwhile, is Belfast’s Bright Umbrella Drama Company’s fast paced, modern military dress version of Shakespeare classic Othello.

Dates: Nov 4 – 8 / Nov 13 Tel 01 6770014 or visit www.smockalley.com Also at Smock this month: NEWvember Nov 1 - 2, Hollow and Dead-Eyed Beasts Nov 10 - 16, Zandra, Queen of Jazz Nov 19 - 23.

The Everyman Theatre Much Ado About Nothing

Speaking of Shakespeare, the Bard’s festive comedy about deception and excess is given a vivid contemporary staging here. On the deck of a deluxe holiday home, a group of friends assemble for a week-long party full of cocktail-infused debauchery, pop music, and questionable gender politics. A screwball comedy of disguised affection and misguided love, the play charts the whiteknuckle ride of two volatile courtships.

Dates: Nov 12 – 13 Tel 021 450 1673 or visit www.everymancork.com Also at the Everyman this month: 3 Hail Marys Oct 31 – Nov 1, Madhouse Nov 2, Tall Tail Nov 23, Susie and the Story Shredder Nov 26, Jack and the Beanstalk Nov 30 – Jan 12

3Arena

Also at the Bord Gais this month: We Will Rock You Oct 28 – Nov 2, 9 To 5 The Musical Nov 19 – 23.

The Abbey Theatre Drama at Inish

A major new Abbey production of Lennox Robinson’s play, which first premiered at the theatre in 1933, the story follows the inhabitants of a small seaside town in Ireland. Inish has never been on the map but it has been making headlines lately, and for all the wrong reasons. Could the performances of the newly arrived De la Mare Repertory Theatre Company really be the cause of the town’s strange behaviour?

Dates: Nov 21 – Jan 24 Tel: 01 887 2200 or visit www.abbeytheatre.ie

The Gate Theatre A Christmas Carol

Charles Dickens’ classic novella about an elderly miser visited by the ghost of his former business partner and the spirits of Christmas Past, Present and Yet to Come is translated to the stage. This is in a new adaptation by acclaimed writer Jack Thorne (National Treasure, The Virtues).

Dates: Nov 15 – Jan 18 Tel 01 874 4045 or visit www.gatetheatre.ie 10

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Aladdin – Gaiety Theatre Panto

It wouldn’t be Christmas without a visit to the Gaiety Panto. As such, the theatre will be taking audiences on a magical carpet ride with this year’s show Aladdin. An Arabian tale of true love, magic wishes and dastardly dealings, organisers say this 2019/2020 panto will excite and delight all ages with the extra helping of song, dance, slapstick and laughter that people have come to expect from the Gaiety’s festive extravaganza. For more information, see page 6.

Dates: Nov 24 – Jan 5 Tel: 0818 719 388 or visit www.gaietytheatre.ie Also at the Gaiety this month: The Exorcist Oct 29 – Nov 2, The Matchmaker Nov 4 – 9, Swan Lake Nov 13 – 16 (for more see page 8)

Smock Alley Theatre

The Haunted Host / Othello

Because of Smock Alley’s packed November programme, Travel Ireland are spotlighting two

Marvel Universe LIVE!

Marvel fans will see over 25 of their favourite superheroes and villains come to life in this action-packed, legendary battle to defend the universe from evil. Spider-Man, The Avengers and the Guardians of the Galaxy join forces with Doctor Strange in a race against time to recover the Wand of Watoomb before it falls into Loki’s hands. The audience will witness cutting-edge special effects, pyrotechnics, and impressive 3D video projection mapping in this completely new adventure. With aerial stunts, martial arts and motorcycle skills, organisers say fans of all ages will be immersed in the Marvel universe in a show unlike anything they’ve seen before.

Dates: Nov 15 - 17 Tel 01 819 8888 or visit www.3arena.ie

The Jonathan Swift Festival

by Pat Liddy

Jonathan Swift is best known as the author of Gulliver’s Travels.

Thought by many to be just a book for children, this novel has a great deal more to say than describe the adventures of a shipwrecked sailor in various strange and topsy-turvy lands. But more about this later.

S

wift was born in 1667, almost under the shadow of Dublin’s St Patrick’s Cathedral, a church he would make famous in his later years. His life began as it would continue, dogged by misfortune and disappointment. His father died while he had six more months to wait in his mother’s womb. Upon his birth he was adopted by his uncle Godwin and soon his mother left Ireland altogether to go back to her own family in Leicester. He would not see her again until he was in his twenties. Educated first in a private school he entered Trinity College Dublin while still only fourteen. Four years later the college authorities reluctantly conferred a Bachelor of Arts degree on a person they considered lazy and dull.

His uncle Godwin had at this stage abandoned all interest in his nephew so Swift in turn abandoned his native land, went to visit his mother in England and shortly afterwards took a post as secretary to a famous retired diplomat, Sir William Temple, in 1689 at Moor Park in Surrey. Treated not much better than a servant with some privileges, Swift’s time at Moor Park did offer some engagement with people of high

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office and even on one occasion with King William III. This fuelled Swift‘s own ambition for career advancement. He was ordained into the Anglican Church and he set about nurturing political contacts so that he might one day get a bishopric or even archbishopric.

But his careful and, it must be said, often much-appreciated political work on behalf of, first the Whigs and then the Tories, actually led him nowhere and in 1713 he had to content himself with his appointment as Dean of St Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin, He described what he considered a virtual exile from the excitements of life in London as like “living like a rat in a hole” - not very flattering of his native city. But he soon settled in and became an indefatigable champion of the wretched poor of Dublin, especially the multitudes of indigent living in what were recognised as amongst Europe’s worst slums in the cathedral’s immediate catchment area.

His exceptional talents for withering satire were designed to slash at those in Government who had ultimate responsibility for the misery of so many and for their misrule. He wrote under a series of pseudonyms to hide (not

always effectively) his identity for if he ascribed his own name to his purposeful documents he might easily have been arrested and even tried for treason.

He became a hero to all the people of Dublin when in 1724/5, as M B Drapier, he wrote a series of pamphlets condemning the proposed introduction of a debased currency into Ireland by its British overlords. He gained the ultimate civic award of the Freedom of Dublin for his successful efforts.

Perhaps his most shocking work (he intended to shock), and this time written under his own name, was his Modest Proposal. Observing the unnecessary deaths of the poverty-stricken poor and especially of their vulnerable children he propounded that I have been assured by a very knowing American of my acquaintance in London, that a young healthy child well nursed is at a year old a most delicious, nourishing, and wholesome food, whether stewed, roasted, baked, or boiled. People recoiled at the very notion but that was exactly what he wanted.

In Gulliver’s Travels, supposedly written by Lemuel Gulliver, he creates an entertaining South Seas Travel fantasy but uses the escapades of Gulliver to expose the wickedness, as he saw it, of the cynical and cruel rule of the Britain of his time. On the land of giants Gulliver proudly explains how the British are beginning to rule much of the known world. After patiently

listening, the King of Brobdingnag indignantly declares I cannot but conclude that the bulk of your natives to be the most pernicious race of little odious vermin that nature ever suffered to crawl upon the surface of the earth. Seditious words indeed!

Swift’s personal life was always complicated and his romantic interludes were no exception. He had several liaisons, his most famous being Ester Johnson

(whom he called Stella and who is buried beside him in St Patrick’s Cathedral) and Hester Vanhomerigh (he named her Vanessa). Plagued all his life by illness he finally succumbed after three or four years of misery in 1745 to the merciful embrace of death. He left his considerable fortune to the foundation of a psychiatric hospital which still functions today.

In a short article I can but hint at just

a few of Jonathan’s Swift’s attributes. But if you are in Dublin for the Swift Festival (November 21 - 24) you can attend one of the many events which will help to bring Swift, his life, his work, his extraordinary genius and his legacy to life (https:// jonathanswiftfestival.ie/calendar-of-events).

During the festival this author also has a series of tours to present Swift and the Dublin of his time (www.walkingtours.ie).

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Wicklow Festival

Spins Some Yarns for 10th Year

Bray’s Mermaid Arts Centre is bringing YARN Storytelling Festival back for a tenth year from November 9 - 17.

YARN is a community based non-profit festival that strives to bring the artform of storytelling to as many people of all ages as possible.

This year’s programme is brimming with top storytellers and performers both from Ireland and abroad.

The festival kicks off Saturday, November 9 upstairs in the Town Hall with Irish language event Ó Bhotháin go Caisleáin from Cork storyteller Cillian Brennan. Admission is free and the event is suitable for kids aged 5+.

Brennan then moves up to the farm market in Killruddery for Shortening the Road, some tales in English before the fire in The Shoot Room at 2pm. Again, admission is free of charge and the event is suitable for ages 5+.

On that Saturday afternoon, storyteller Philip Byrne is holding a fun participatory workshop in aid of Greystones Cancer Support in The Martello. Meanwhile, on Saturday evening at 8pm join storyteller Helena Byrne upstairs in the Town Hall for Supernatural Ireland, an event not for the faint hearted. Tickets are on sale now and cost €12/10. The event is for adults 16+.

On Sunday, November 10 visit the People’s Park at noon for Poetry in the Park with a tale or two by Philip Byrne. Admission is free and all 14

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ages are welcome. Meanwhile, on Sunday afternoon Niall de Búrca is coming to Mermaid Arts Centre with his family show World Tales. Tickets cost €5 but are selling fast so don’t delay.

YARN will also welcome Moth and Butterfly from Galway to the Mermaid Arts Centre on Sunday, November 10 at 7pm. Described as ‘Galway’s most magical arts night’ and one with ‘huge heart’, the tellers combine short true personal stories, fiction/folk tales and improvisation, as well as inviting audiences to participate.

Each night of stories has a theme, and for YARN that is ‘The Connection’. Tellers are Órla McGovern, Catherine Brophy and Niceol Blue with a fourth to be confirmed. For more information see Mermaid’s website.

The venue will also welcome one of Iceland’s top storytellers Hjörleifur Stefánsson. Stefánsson has collected and shared tales for years with his kids, audiences and sheep. Giants, trolls, hidden people and ghosts are his companions as well as Icelanders of the past and their traditions of song and stories.

Stefánsson will be busy in schools and libraries all week but the public will have a chance to hear his tales in Frank Duff ’s Lounge on Wednesday, November 13 at 8pm (18+). He will also perform for kids in both Killruddery and Fassaroe Community Centre on Saturday, November 16.

The Maritime History of Bray will be presented in Mermaid on Tuesday, November 12 by Brian White of Bray Cualann Historical Society. Who knew that bathing goggles were invented in Bray? Come along for more interesting tidbits like this.

Two school shows will take place at the Mermaid during YARN week.

Children have the great opportunity to come and see Susie and the Story Shredder, presented by Bombinate Theatre. Meanwhile, secondary pupils have the unique chance to join Niall de Búrca for Sophies’ Tale set in World War II. On Thursday, November 14 the much-loved Candlelit Tales will be joined by Aindreas de Staic upstairs in The Harbour Bar at 8pm performing Setting Sail on a Voyage Tale. This event is kindly sponsored by its venue and the €5 payable on the door goes 100 per cent to the RNLI Lifeboats in Dun Laoghaire in order to help purchase new equipment.

Tony Doyle brings his show Weekend Warrior to Mermaid Arts Centre on Thursday 14 straight from the Dublin Fringe Festival. This powerful oneman performance based on a young man’s attempts to give up drink and drugs is not to be missed. Again, Niall de Búrca is back on the Mermaid stage on Friday, November 15 with his Hooley of Tales. For adults over 16+, tickets are on sale now and cost €12/10.

YARN will welcome Liz Weir MBE to Bray on Saturday, November 16 for a day-long workshop on telling stories for and with older people living with dementia. Organisers say this is a fantastic opportunity to learn from one of Ireland’s greatest experts in this field.

Kids will have mighty fun at Storytelling Yoga with Nicola Foxe in Mermaid on the same Saturday. Meanwhile, on Saturday evening in that venue join Colum Sands for his new show Song Bridge. Sands has spent much of his life travelling the world, crossing borders and building bridges with the power of his songs and stories.

Irish music for kids band The Speks will wrap up YARN on Sunday, November 17 in Mermaid at 2pm. Tickets are almost sold out so don’t delay.

Storyteller and artist Paul Timoney is Mermaid’s Storyteller in Residence for 2019. Timoney is working with secondary pupils in North Wicklow Educate Together.Visit the Mermaid Gallery during YARN to see the results of their work.

Full information on YARN can be found on Mermaid’s website at www.mermaidartscentre.ie or by calling box office on 01-2724030.

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Mayo Museum is

National Treasure The National Museum of Ireland - Country Life, at Turlough Park, Castlebar, Co. Mayo, is a must-see heritage experience for visitors touring the western region.

Striking contemporary architecture combines with Victorian Gothic design at this impressive museum site, which welcomes more than 100,000 visitors each year and is easily accessed from the nearby Wild Atlantic Way. The modern museum building is home to Ireland’s National Folklife Collection and sits alongside Turlough Park House, a historic home dating to 1865. All of this is set within a beautiful parkland with formal Victorian 16

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gardens, woodland sections, a river and an ornamental lake.

Admission to the museum and Turlough Park House and Gardens is free. In the museum itself, visitors can journey through four floors of award-winning exhibition galleries to learn about an almost vanished way of life from the relatively recent past. Audio and visual displays, objects, rare photography and archive film footage depict the rich heritage and fascinating cultural traditions of rural Ireland in the 19th and 20th centuries.

Next to the galleries,Turlough Park House provides a striking contrast, giving visitors an insight into how wealthy and influential landowners lived during the same era. There are three restored rooms open to the public.

Designed by a well-known architect of the era,Thomas Newenham Deane, the house is a beautiful example of High Victorian Gothic architecture. It was the ancestral home of the Fitzgerald family for more than 350 years before it became the site for a National Museum of Ireland.

The house overlooks a man-made lake with ‘picnic islands.’ Other garden features include a Victorian glasshouse, formal terraced lawns, a vinery, outdoor art installations and woodland walks and trails.

The Museum Café is located in the former stable block and service wing of Turlough Park House, looking out to an original cobbled courtyard. The Museum Shop next door offers a wide range of unique Irish

crafts, gifts and books.

Energetic visitors can opt to walk or cycle to the museum, via a spur of the famous Great Western Greenway. This 10-kilometre cycling and walking route links Castlebar to the museum grounds and passes through picturesque countryside along the way. Bicycle parking facilities are available at the museum and bike hire is available in Castlebar.

While admission to the museum is free, guided tours must be booked in advance.

Group tours with an experienced museum guide cost €40. The museum also offers a free programme of temporary exhibitions, activities and events year round and visitors can see what’s on at www.museum.ie.

Visitors who enjoy their time at Turlough

Park should be sure to visit the three other National Museum of Ireland sites, all located in Dublin City and all offering free admission.

The NMI - Decorative Arts & History at Collins Barracks, Dublin 7, displays silver, ceramics, glassware, furniture, clothing, jewellery and coins as well as a military history collection, which tells of Ireland’s military and revolutionary past.

The NMI - Natural History at Merrion Street in Dublin’s City Centre houses a comprehensive zoological collection while the nearby NMI - Archaeology displays some of Ireland’s most priceless and iconic treasures.

To plan your visit or for further information on upcoming events and exhibitions, see www.museum.ie.

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Explore Leinster

The Chester Beatty Library

The War Memorial Gardens When you are visiting IMMA in Kilmainham, you should walk on over to Islandbridge about half a kilometer further on. The gardens there are dedicated to the memory of the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in the 1st World War. The names of all the soldiers are contained in the beautifully illustrated Harry Clarke manuscripts in the granite bookrooms in the gardens. Not merely a place of remembrance, they are also of great architectural interest and beauty. They are one of only four gardens in this country designed by the famous architect Sir Edwin Lutyens (1869-1944). The others being Heywood Gardens, Lambay Island and those in Howth Castle. The sunken rose gardens, herbaceous borders and extensive tree planting on view here make it well worth that extra bit of a walk.

Open all year round. Tel: 01 475 7816

Glasnevin Cemetery Museum & Guided Tours Located 2.5km from Dublin city centre, Glasnevin Cemetery is one of Ireland’s most popular attractions - a breathtakingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery where over 1.6 million are buried. Guides are passionate about sharing their love of history and recount the stories of Ireland’s fascinating past through daily walking tours, resulting in history lessons made fun and memorable by professionals who know their stuff. Awarded TripAdvisor’s Travellers’ Choice Award 2018, Glasnevin is a cemetery of historic importance. Museum, genealogy, gift shop and café on site.

Open daily for guided tours, re-enactments and the O’Connell tower. museum@glasnevintrust.ie (01) 882 6550 www.glasnevinmuseum.ie

Pat Liddy Walking Tours of Dublin

If you really want to get to know the city, then walking around with an entertaining and professional guide is the best way to discover its history and hidden treasures. Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade. The tours are described as entertaining and full of history. Even for someone who lives in Dublin, the tours surprises with loads of hidden facts. You can choose from a wide range of scheduled tours (all year round), including three brand new tours designed to get you off the beaten path. Docklands – The New Old Dublin, Hidden Gems of the Northside and The Tempting Whiskey Trail around the historic Liberties. Private tours can be arranged at any time geared to the topic of your choice. Tours are offered in main European languages.

Find Out More Book at: www.walkingtours.ie Contact: Info@walkingtours.ie or 00353 10832 9406

The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world.

Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3pm and 4pm.

Opening hours: 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sat 11am-5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm.

Tel: 01 407 0750

The National Museum of Ireland

Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit.

Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance.

Tel: 01 453 5984

The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. With three locations in Dublin covering Archaeology, Natural History, Decorative Arts & History, and one location in Mayo covering Country Life, you can lose yourself for hours in the many exhibitions.

Free admission Tel +353 (0) 1 677 7444 www.museum.ie

Baggot Street welcomes a beautiful modern Italian restaurant!

Open for lunch from 12pm to 3pm, Dinner 5pm 'til late, Mon- Sat www.cirillos.ie

Phone | +353 1 676 6848 Location | No. 140, Baggot St., Dublin 2 18

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2019

Recommended Bars in Leinster

The Duke

Ideally situated close to Grafton Street, this old watering hole has been providing liquid refreshment and sustenance to the people of Dublin since 1822. They have a great selection of craft beers, whiskeys and gins for you to try, along with amazing food. The Duke is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of busy Grafton Street.

9 Duke St, Dublin 2 016799553

Sin É

Sin É on Ormond Quay is Dublin’s original late night alternative music venue. Whether it’s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic night’s that you’re looking for, Sin É caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If you’re looking for a great atmosphere and some of the best musicians in Dublin then Sin É is

ǧ

definitely the place to be. ĆĞnj ĎĒĊ ĊĚē ċėĔĒ ͕͖ ēĔĔē

Dingle Whiskey Bar

The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. And every strolling14 into-15 theOrmond celt is likeQuay taking a trip to the west, play boys and Tuesday they host a Whiskey Tasting Class from chailĂ­nĂ­ payfor attention and& dance along the way to the early light Tel: 01 555 4036 01 555 4037 7pm with whiskey guru FionnĂĄn O’Connor. www.sin-e.ie Learn everything you ever wanted to know about ÍœÍ•ÇŚÍœÍ– –ƒŽ„‘– •–”‡‡–ǥ †—„Ž‹Â? …‹–› …‡Â?–”‡ the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey. ™™™Ǥ–Š‡…‡Ž–Ǥ‹‡ –‡Žǣ ͔͕ ͛͜͜ ͚͙͙͜ Tickets available at the bar for â‚Ź18.

the celt

Grogan’s

44 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 677 4810 www.theporterhouse.ie

This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming.

15 S William St., Dublin 2.

Tel: 01 677 9320

The Confession Box JT Pim’s

The Celt

Located in the heart of the Dame District, JT Pim’s is styled as a local bar in the city centre.

They offer quality drinks in comfortable surrounds. From local craft beers such as the 5 Lamps and Galway Hooker ranges, to fine wines and signature cocktails such as their twist on the classic Old Fashioned, they have all tastes covered. Their bartenders are happy to take requests and guide you through the list. Relax in their bespoke armchairs or leather couches, or when the sun is shining, soak up the atmosphere in Dame Court.

Situated on Talbot Street in the heart of Dublin, The Celt Bar is always thronged with locals and visitors thanks to the authentic Irish experience that is on offer there. Visitors can sample the finest Irish whiskeys, beers, ales and stouts and enjoy live traditional music seven nights a week.

The Celt also offer traditional Irish food seven days a week. The classic bar menu includes beer battered haddock and traditional beef and Guinness stew. There’s no better place to go to for the full Irish experience than The Celt Bar.

4 South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2  (01) 672 4645

81 Talbot St, Dublin Tel: 01 878 8655 www.thecelt.ie

One of the smallest bars in Dublin, The Confession Box is situated in the heart of Dublin City near the Spire. During the War of Independence rebel volunteers sought refuge here and received the sacraments from local sympathetic clergy.

Recently, this iconic part of Dublin’s history was renovated. Now run by the capital’s friendliest bar staff, the spot offers great live music from Thursday to Sunday, as well as coverage of major TV sports events. Catering to all tastes, it’s no surprise The Confession Box has picked up much deserved awards.

88 Marlborough St, Dublin 1.

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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Corfu Greek Restaurant

Corfu Greek Restaurant is a hidden gem situated on Parliament Street. Here, the friendly and attentive staff will serve you some of the finest Greek food at incredibly reasonable prices. Choose from a range of starters, such as calamari and dolmadakia, and then tuck into some delicious traditional Greek main courses, including moussaka, kleftiko and stifado, all washed down with a nice glass of wine from their varied wine list.

12 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 675 0050

Le Bon Crubeen

Silken Thomas

Silken Thomas is a family operated business, established for over 40 years. Focussed on giving that warm Irish welcome, Silken Thomas has a proven record in quality and service. Silken Thomas is where you can eat, drink, dance and sleep.

Silken Thomas brings to you the traditional Irish Pub Lils, the more sports-orientated Squires and the contemporary Flanagan’s Lounge. For whatever occasion you are celebrating or a place to simply relax for a drink, Silken Thomas is the choice for you.

The Square Kildare Town Co. Kildare +353 (0) 45 522232 info@silkenthomas.com

Camden Kitchen This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin, with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes.

It has won Best Value Restaurant Dublin in the Dubliner, Best Pre-Theatre listing in Hot Press and Best Casual Dining in the Restaurant Awards Value and Quality.

Peploe’s

Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park.

16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com

Cliff Townhouse

Fine dining in Dublin city centre with seafood focused menus, including the innovative Afternoon Sea. The Cliff Townhouse restaurant serves brilliantly executed Dublin classics, menus are equally suited to a threecourse celebration or a light bite in the middle of the day. Staples include generous salads, eggs Benedict, Galway oysters, Irish lobsters, dressed Yawl Bay crabs, wild sea trout and 10oz Hereford rib eye steaks.

22 St Stephen's Green, Dublin 2 +35316383939 info@clifftownhouse.ie

81-2 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 0126 www.leboncrubeen.ie

Mexico to Rome

Zaytoon

20

Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.

A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff.

14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 3595 www.zaytoon.ie

3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 476 0125 www.camdenkitchen.ie

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Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value.

23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Kafka Restaurant

Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value. They serve lunch, brunch and dinner, offering a fresh healthy menu of delights including Spinach and Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Tiger Prawn Risotto and as they’re just a short walk from the City Centre, it’s the perfect place to start your night out.

236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6 01 497 7057 www.kafka.ie

ASADOR

Café Topolis

The Left Bank Bistro is 23 years in business, a true testament to its popularity. This modern restaurant is situated in the heart of Old Athlone, a stone's throw from the Athlone Lock on the River Shannon with views of the Norman Castle and its ancient architecture.

The food is exciting and innovative. You can savour fresh fish and dishes such as beef carpaccio, chicken satay and an array of decadent, delicious desserts.

Fry Place, High St, Athlone, Co. Westmeath Call (090) 649 4446 Email: info@leftbankbistro.com Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine.

Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.

ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food.

1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4.

Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie

La Ruelle Wine Bar

37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961

Cirillo’s

‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’.

ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food.

The Left Bank Bistro

Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers.

Perfect for the festive season or any events.

3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie

Salamanca

Cirillo’s have gone to great lengths to ensure that their customers enjoy an authentic Italian meal.

All of their pizzas are made to the traditional Vera Pizza Napoletana standards, using San Marzano tomatoes, 00 flour and fresh mozzarella all finished in a wood fire oven that they imported from Naples. All of their pasta, bread, pizza dough and ice creams are made in-house every day and they offer a wide variety of Italian wines, craft beers and aperitifs that beautifully compliment their seriously tasty meals.

Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City.

140 Baggot Street, Dublin 2 +353 1 6766848 www.cirillos.ie

1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie NOVEMBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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a l l e r e C ind Bord Gais Opera

Photo Ros Kavanagh

Set to Be a Ball

G

ioachino Rossini’s La Cenerentola, his operatic take on the classic fairytale Cinderella, is coming to the Bord Gais Energy Theatre from November 10 – 16.

A select few were given a taster at The Old Library in Trinity College Dublin last month (Oct 16) of what to expect – the venue chosen because of the fairy-tale book motif of the new production’s set.

Stars Tara Erraught and Graeme Danby were present, performing spine-tingling renditions of the opera’s arias ‘Non Piu Mesta’ and ‘Miei Rampolli Femminini.’

The Irish Erraught will play the title figure, a signature role of hers which she has performed for over 13 years in cities like Hamburg, Munich, Vienna and Washington. When asked at the Trinity event by Fergus Sheil, artistic director of the Irish National Opera, if she ever tires of the part, the singer replied: “You can’t be sick of her. Our second show will be my 30th so it’s the right time to bring it home. You don’t bring things home until they are really ready.”

Having performed in other Irish National Opera productions Aida

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and The Marriage of Figaro, English singer Danby will play the role of Don Magnifico, Cinderella’s stepfather.

Speaking about their relationship, Sheil said: “La Cenerentola has this awful relationship with her father where she’s just heaped with abuse. But she’s like one of those yo-yo things that no matter how you knock her over, she just comes upright and smiles.”

“She’s this incredible character that really can’t see the bad in anything and constantly looks on the bright side. At the end, she has the opportunity to ascend to this position of being married to the prince. Many of us might think: ‘now this is my chance to get even with those people who’ve been making my life a misery’. Instead she uses it to forgive and ask Don Magnifico to embrace her. It’s really beautiful and poignant.”

The Irish National Opera was founded in January 2018. Since then, they have already presented 12 full productions of operas and three revivals and have performed in 30 venues across Ireland.

Diego Fasciati, executive director of the Irish National Opera, said at the

event: “We place a lot of emphasis on championing Irish talent – directors, designers and of course opera singers. To date we have employed 32 Irish opera singers in principal roles. We’re very proud of that and we will continue.”

Sheil, meanwhile, discussed his first experience with opera and his delight that the Irish National Opera is now founded to stage productions like La Cenerentola: “I remember my own first engagement with opera was working as an assistant conductor at the Wexford Opera Festival. Hearing those singers was a transformative experience. I had no idea singing could be such a powerful thing that really goes to your core and gets inside you.”

“Over the last few weeks, it has been remarkable to work with this incredible cast of singers – each one, absolutely virtuosic in what they are doing. I’m so excited to be able to present this quality in the Bord Gais Energy Theatre in a few weeks time.”

For more information and to purchase tickets, visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre. ie. Tickets for the show cost from €15 – 95.

Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.

Cork at night

Lismore Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times.

Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture.

From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes.

County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world.

The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles Reginald’s Tower

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you would expect from a truly Irish experience.

The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy.

One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral.

Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and

there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore.

Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’ and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production.

County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.

Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Munster Room Restaurant

The Lobster Bar and Restaurant

options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City.

Open Monday - Saturday 5.30pm until late (Open Bank Holiday Sundays) 2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie

The Smuggler’s Inn The 2-AA Rosette Munster Room Restaurant is located on the idyllic private island of Waterford Castle Hotel and Golf Resort. The Island is just minutes by car from Waterford city centre and accessible by complimentary Resort ferry.

The Castle culinary team work passionately to create dishes with sublime flavour using high quality produce sourced from local suppliers, the kitchen’s vegetable patch and by foraging for what grows naturally on the 310-acre Island. The menu changes seasonally so guests can always savour the freshest ingredients.

The Munster Room Restaurant’s oak-panelled walls, Waterford Crystal chandeliers and ornate ceilings match the luxurious surroundings of the 16th Century Castle hotel. Home to a fine Irish whiskey collection, an impressive wine cellar and signature cocktails, the elegant Fitzgerald Room bar is perfect for an aperitif or post-dinner drink.

During the day, the Castle serves Afternoon Tea in the bright conservatory overlooking the lawns, with homemade pastries and desserts prepared by dedicated pastry chefs.

The restaurant and hotel have made the lists for both McKennas’ Guides 100 Best Places to Stay 2019 and 101 Great Irish Restaurants 2019.

They have also won Luxury Hotel of the Year 2019 and Munster Fine Dining Hotel of the Year 2019.

Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort The Island, Ballinakill, Co Waterford X91 Y722 info@waterfordcastleresort.com 00353 (0)51 878 203 www.waterfordcastleresort.com

The Strand Inn

Delicious food and friendly service are what makes The Lobster a must visit on the Ring of Kerry. Established over 60 years ago, it’s a family run business steeped in history. On the front of the restaurant is a giant lobster holding a pint of Guinness which can’t be missed.

Inside a warm welcome, a relaxing atmosphere and award-winning food awaits. The restaurant prides itself on its seafood, with whole poached lobster, beetroot cured salmon, local mussels and seafood chowder some of their signature dishes.

Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 947 4629 www.thelobsterwaterville.com

Out of the Blue

Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330, www.thesmugglersinn.ie

Momo They serve only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment.

Dingle Harbour. Tel: 066 915 0811

La Boheme

Overlooking Hook Head, The Strand Inn is the perfect place to enjoy lingering breakfasts, relax over a long lunch or enjoy intimate, romantic suppers. Diners can look forward to the finest Irish beef, lobster and line caught seafood in a luxurious setting, characterised by beamed ceilings, original stone walls and planked floors.

Dunmore East, Co.Waterford.

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This ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. It’s not hard to see why as the Chef/Proprietor, Henry Hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. Panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience.

For total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms.

La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu

Momo is a multi-award-winning restaurant in Waterford City, Ireland. They pride themselves on their fresh and healthy menu featuring ingredients from the local food producers of Waterford County. You will enjoy a wide range of international dishes including lots of vegetarian/vegan options as well as delicious meat and fish dishes. Momo featured in the McKennas’ Guides Top 100 Restaurants in Ireland 2018, 2017 and 2016, and won ‘Best Casual Dining’ in Munster at the Irish Restaurant Awards 2017.

47 Patrick Street, Waterford, Ireland.

Call (051) 581 509 kamila@momorestaurant.ie

Recommended Bars in Munster

Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder, Irish Whiskey Experience

Ryans Bar

Developed by whiskey lovers as a first class destination for whiskey enthusiasts and novices alike. Guests will be amazed by shelf upon shelf of Irish, Scottish & international whiskies and a wide variety of Irish craft gin & vodka, craft beer and cider, eclectic wine list, and creative cocktail menu. Fresh, locally sourced food served daily. Irish Whiskey Experience offers the chance to discover more about the history, production & renaissance of Irish whiskey, with 10 masterclasses to choose from, running every day.

93 New Street Killarney, Co. Kerry Tel: +353646635700 www.celticwhiskeybar.com www.irishwhiskeyexperience.net

The Roaring Donkey

Perched up on “Top of The Hill” the Roaring Donkey is Cobh’s oldest traditional pub. Still original and oozing charm and authenticity the pub has been operating since 1880. It is known locally as the rugby pub but they do their best to accommodate most sports. A traditional music session has been running for nearly 40 years and is on every Wednesday night. Great craic guaranteed or enjoy a quiet pint in one of the finest beer gardens in town.

The Roaring Donkey Tiknock, Cobh, Co. Cork Phone: (021) 481 1739

The Friary

Located by the river on the corner of Cork’s historic Shandon Street and North Mall, The Friary is a unique combination of old, new and eccentric. It's a homely craft beer bar with delicious gins and tonics.

Look out for its astonishing range of special events; music, art, quizzes, the famous Drunk Spelling Bee, weird films, Penguin parties (really) and more!

62 Shandon St, Cork Tel: 087 668 0941

The Bierhaus

There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers.

Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648 A friendly, family-run traditional Irish spot, Ryans Bar is one of Cobh’s most popular pubs, located right in the heart of town. Owned

by Paul and Gemma O’Halloran for the last 21 years, the venue shows all live sports and features live music on the weekends, as well as occasional sessions midweek. On top of this, it boasts a real cozy feel in the Winter. This is thanks to its gorgeous, rustic open fire.

12 Casement Square, Cobh, Co. Cork (021) 481 1539

Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant

Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May. 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1)

The Original Durty Nelly’s

Durty Nelly’s can truly be described as one of Ireland’s landmark pubs. Nestling in the shadow of the magnificent Bunratty Castle, it is the first stopping off point for generations of visitors to Ireland arriving at nearby Shannon Airport. Apart from the warm Irish welcome that you’ll find at Nelly’s, you’ll also enjoy the finest, freshest local produce – whether you’re just dropping in for a snack or staying for a fine dining experience.

The Original Durty Nelly's Bunratty West, Bunratty, Co. Clare +353 61 364 861 info@durtynellys.ie

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2019

An Unmissable Experience!

Cobh, The Queenstown Story An informative and emotive story of Irish emigration.

Learn about Cobh’s connection with Titanic and the Lusitania.

Cobh Heritage Centre, Cobh, Co. Cork, Ireland.

Open 7 days 9.30 – 5.30 (Sundays 11am) Tel 353 (21) 4 813591 Find Cobh the Queenstown Story on Facebook 237664_Cobh Heritage_AC_SCIT.indd 1

Email: info@cobhheritage.com Web: www.cobhheritage.com 01/12/2015 14:08

Explore Munster

The Hunt Museum Cliffs of Moher Loop Head Lighthouse This popular tourist attraction is located at the mouth of the Shannon Estuary on the Loop Head Peninsula, which is one of two “Signature Discovery Points” in County Clare along the route of the Wild Atlantic Way. It also is a landmark location on the Loop Head Heritage Trail and is one of 12 Great Lighthouses of Ireland. The lighthouse is steeped in history and rich in maritime heritage with its origins dating back to the 1670s. The existing tower style lighthouse was constructed in 1854 and was operated and maintained by a keeper who lived within the lighthouse compound. In January 1991, the lighthouse was converted to automatic operation, and today is monitored by the CIL.Open daily (10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.) until 5 November.

The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art.

One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry.

When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Bunratty Castle

Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com

Titanic Experience Cobh

The Burren

Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.

Blarney Castle

The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again.

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2019

Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912. The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.

Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.

www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie

Tel: 021 438 5252

Cobh Heritage Centre

The Queenstown Story

Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events.

T

he exhibition at Cobh Heritage Centre, known as The Queenstown Story, is inventively situated within Cobh’s restored Victorian railway station, a building with its own historic story.

The Queenstown Story will engage the visitor in a journey through time, recalling Irish emigration with real stories about real people. From the indentured servants of Virginia and the West Indies plantations in the 17th century, the early settlers in upper Canada, the famine victims of the 1840s to the large-scale emigration of the 19th and 20th centuries. The visitor will also discover the hardships endured by the convicts who were transported to Australia.

The present town of Cobh has its origins as a small village nestled in the hillside on the southern shores. The village was known as Cove, being situated in the cove, or harbour, of Cork.

The town did not begin to grow until the early nineteenth century, but its strategic importance was realised in the late eighteenth century during the American War of Independence. Vital shiploads of troops and supplies were needed by the British forces fighting in America between 1775 and

1781. The entry of France into the war in 1778 heightened the danger of these ships being attacked at sea. This large and safe harbour provided ideal conditions in which the ships could assemble and be protected.

The wars against France from the 1790s to 1815 were to prove the catalyst which led to the future prosperity of the town as Cove and its harbour played an important role in this war at sea.

Cove went on to become a major port with both naval and merchant shipping and was one of the major ports of emigration.

Cobh, or Queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, The Titanic and The Lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events.

The exhibition is a self-guided tour with audio tours available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, Dutch, Polish and Chinese.

It is not just interesting and educational, but very emotive and thought-provoking.

“Take a glimpse into our storied past and walk in the footsteps of our emigrant ancestors”.

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Recommended Shopping Powerscourt Centre

Located in Dublin’s Creative Quarter on the bustling South William Street is the Powerscourt Centre. Housed in a stunning Georgian townhouse, the Powerscourt Centre has over 40 shops and restaurants and offers shoppers a wonderful city centre shopping experience.

The centre offers a range of fashion stores, such as All Saints, French Connection and Mary Grant and if antiques are your thing then the Powerscourt Centre is the place to go. There are a number of antique stores in the centre, including Courtville Antiques, Delphi Antiques, Lilly Fine Art, The Silver Shop and Monte Cristo. If you’re planning a wedding in the near future, the Centre also offers a number of superb wedding outlets www.powerscourtcentre.ie

Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre Located at the top of Grafton Street, in the heart of Dublin city centre, Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre hosts a wide variety of top retailers. Household names such as Dunnes Stores, Argos, Boots, Eason, United Colors of Benetton, Mothercare, Elverys, Golden Discs and TK Maxx can be found here. When you’re finished shopping, you can relax in one of the many lovely cafes, head for a pint in one of the many nearby pubs, or take a stroll across the road in St Stephen’s Green. www.stephensgreen.com

Jam Art Factory

Courtville: Antique & Vintage Jewellers

Courtville is a traditional Dublin shop with a friendly atmosphere, in business over 50 years and based in the Antique Gallery within the Historic Powerscourt Townhouse. Their collection of vintage, antique and estate jewellery are sure to capture your imagination.

They are envisioning a more personal, accessible and enjoyable world to trade fine jewellery and engagement rings. Authenticity is guaranteed on every piece.

Instagram: @matthew.weldons Antique Gallery - Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, 59 South William Street, Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (1) 6794042

Tights Department Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear.

They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks.

Celtic Whiskey Shop

Ireland’s premier Irish whiskey specialists with a remarkable selection of beloved, rare and hard to find bottlings and shop exclusives. It boasts a knowledgeable and friendly staff who are proud and passionate about products, and are always on hand to offer advice. Feel free to pop in where we serve up in-store whiskey tastings all day everyday! If you're travelling, our staff can either wrap your purchases in protective wrapping or arrange shipping to national and international destinations.

27 – 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6759744 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com

Mourne Antiques

Unit 108, 1st Floor, Stephen's Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2, Ireland D02 VF67 Shop online: www.tightsdepartment.ie (deliver worldwide)

Designer Exchange

Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row.

64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 www.JamArtFactory.com and www.JamArtPrints.com 32

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2019

Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vuitton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands.

53 Dawnson Street, Dublin 2.

35 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2.

Tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd

Mourne Antiques have been operating in the thriving town of Letterkenny for 25 years.

They offer a range of beautiful antiques, such as ceramics, silver, furniture and collectables, all with their own particular history and charm. You could find anything from a rare book to a mink coat!

They specialise in a wide range of jewellery.

From Victorian gold and precious stone pieces to Contemporary diamond and Engagement rings to 1940’s costume jewellery, their stock is sure to please.

38 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny, Co. Donegal 074 9126457 www.mourneantiques.com

Recommended Shopping The Donegal Shop

The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products. The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists.

Mention Travel Ireland to get a 10% discount 2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com

James Fox

Puro

Puro offers innovative collections of contemporary urban-wear and luxury sneakers from emerging talents as well as world renowned designers. Brands include Pal Zileri, Joop!, Baldessarini, Guess, Philippe Model, Gold Brothers, Android Homme, Mallet and many more.

Puro is the only Irish stockist of many of these brands and while we feel a visit to this beautiful store is a must to truly appreciate the collections, you can also shop or browse first online at puromenswear.com 34 Wicklow Street, Dublin, Ireland info@puro.ie Call (01) 558 1406

The Kilkenny Shop

Amelia’s is home to a selection of beautiful gallery pieces that are perfect for the home or a present for someone special. They stock a range of art and studio ceramics lovingly handcrafted by makers from all over the country, specialising in local makers from the North-West of Ireland.

There are little gifts and keepsakes for the everyday too! All pieces are handpicked by owner Frances Spears. She has over 20 years experience in the design and antiques business so you know you’re in good hands when you pay a visit to Amelia’s Irish Design.

29 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny Co. Donegal 087 2434060 www.amelias.ie

Mackintosh by Francis Campelli

Mackintoshes were first produced in Ireland in 1889 and Francis Campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the most experienced hands The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium when you visit this store. for Irish designed products; from fashion and They offer the finest quality, waterproof jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. For over five decades, the Kilkenny Shop has Mackintoshes for men and women from stock or made to measure been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen from €485, as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories.

Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce.

6 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 6777066 www.kilkennyshop.com

Irish Linen House

For over 135 years, James Fox Cigar and Whiskey Store has been Dublin’s focal point for lovers of Irish whiskey and premium Cuban cigars. Here you will find Ireland’s largest selection of handmade Cuban cigars, including rare and vintage stock.

James Fox also stock a large range of premium Irish whiskeys and spirits to satisfy the most discerning palates. Tax-Free shopping available in-store and online.

119 Grafton Street, Dublin 2, Ireland.

Tel: (01) 677 0533 Email: info@jamesfox.ie Website: www.jamesfox.ie

Amelia’s Irish Design

Irish Linen House create handmade tablerunners, placemats and napkins made from the finest Irish linen. Each piece of the collection is uniquely made, fusing historical elements with a modern, contemporary edge and has caught the attention of worldwide stores including Barneys of New York. Just up the road from the Jameson Distillery, their Smithfield store is the perfect place to pick up a unique piece of Ireland.

Nr. Jameson Distillery, Bow Street Smithfield Village, Dublin 7 www.irishlinenhouse.com 01-5329572 / 083-3010502 01 820 8774

46 South William Street, Dublin 2 01 6088608 www.franciscampelli.com

Article

This charming store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland.

They stock homeware from around the world, including Irish designers - with everything from Irish woollen throws, glass vases and stationery on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice.

Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2 01 679 9268 www.articledublin.com NOVEMBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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See Three of the Years

Best Films T For Free

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he three finalists for the Lux Film Prize - Cold Case Hammarskjold; God Exists, Her Name is Petrunya; and The Realm - will each have a free screening from November 8 - 12 in Cork cinemas.

Introduced in 2007, the Lux Prize is an award given out by the European Parliament. Its goal is to spotlight films exploring contemporary Europe’s social and political issues and help them find an audience beyond their national market.

This year, the European Parliament continues their partnership with Cork Film Festival (November 7 – 17) with the free Lux Prize screenings happening amidst the film event. The first movie to screen is Cold Case Hammarskjold, a Scandi documentary.

Cold Case Hammarskjold centres on Danish journalist Mads Brugger and Swedish aid worker Goran Bjorkdahl as they look with fresh eyes into the death of UN Secretary General Dag Hammarskjold in 1961. It follows the two as they uncover a dark sinister plot with global consequences.

Cold Case Hammarskjold will be shown on Friday, November 8 in the Triskel Arts Centre at 7pm as part of a simultaneous screening across Europe. It will be followed by a Q&A with director Brugger connecting all EU audiences in one conversation.

Screening on Tuesday, November 12

is The Realm, a fiercely contemporary political thriller from Spain. Dropping viewers into a shady world of backdoor deals and secret power plays, anti-hero Manuel is a corrupt politician caught with his hand in the cookie jar.

When held up as a scapegoat by his equally bent party members, he decides to turn whistle-blower. As his testimony could bring down the country’s whole political system, the fight for Manuel to speak out turns into a fight for his life.

Thrilling and terrifying in equal measure, The Realm screens at the Gate Cinema at 3.30pm.

Also to be screened at the Gate Cinema on the same Tuesday is God Exists, Her Name is Petrunya, a Macedonian comedy-drama based on true events. Single jobless woman Petrunya causes havoc in her small town when she takes part in a religious competition for men and wins.

Upsetting the male competitors’ fragile egos, as well as the local church who stipulate Petrunya is not the true winner because she is a woman, events soon escalate into a police standoff. Part winning farce, part dissection of gender norms and the relationship between church and state, the film will be shown at 6.15pm.

While the showings are free to attend, they are ticketed. Be sure to visit corkfilmfest.org to claim your spot.

Waterford Gallery Opens with an

Excellent Exhibition

T

he brand-new Waterford Gallery of Art has announced its inaugural exhibition – ‘Highlights of the Waterford Gallery of Art’ – to commemorate the venue’s opening.

Curated by Dr Éimear O’Connor, an honorary member of the Royal Hibernian Academy, the exhibition will encompass landscape, still life, portraiture, and figurative work. It will also celebrate all painterly styles from classical to abstract.

Legendary Irish artists featured in the exhibition include Camille Souter, Dan O’Neill, Dermod O’Brien, Evie Hone, Jack B. Yeats, John Butler Yeats, Letitia Hamilton, Louis Le Brocquy, Martin Gale, Mary Swanzy, May Guinness, Norah McGuinness and William J. Leech.

The Waterford Art Collection was first founded in 1939 and comprised of 17 works from mostly wellknown contemporary figures. In the years that have passed, it has grown to feature many of Ireland’s most renowned visual artists. This is the first time that the collection will be housed together.

Organisers say the display at the Waterford Gallery of Art’s first exhibition is a source of civic pride. They call it ‘a local and national treasure,’ one of which the people of Waterford are ‘justifiably proud.’

The ‘Highlights of the Waterford Gallery of Art’ exhibition is open to the public now and will remain so until the beginning of May 2020.

The Waterford Gallery of Art is located at 31 & 32 O’Connell Street having opened its doors on October 26 as part of the county’s Imagine Arts Festival last month. It’s opening hours are Thursdays and Fridays from 11am to 5pm.

For booking and tours, email waterfordgallery@waterfordcouincil.ie.

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Welcome to Connaught

Macnas Festival Parade This Fierce Beauty

The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000.

Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht.

The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right.

Galway city

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2019

Connaught has some Carrick on Shannon of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim.

Couple these with the beautiful Ashford the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park the present day without interruption. Croagh in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician must for all.

Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, For those interested in a religious experience Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist custom of trekking up the mountain has been are reputed to have appeared. The apparition faithfully handed down from generation to was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the from six years to seventy-five and included picturesque town of Westport, and its conical men, women and children. The shrine has shape soars majestically above the surrounding become so popular in modern times that the countryside with magnificent views of Clew Ireland West International Airport was built Bay beneath. especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, Connaught. religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst The county also features the pilgrimage site an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered has it all.

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Irishman

Kayaks River Shannon for Charity

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ruised ribs, stormy weather and a capsized kayak - Irishman Garry McGovern faced it all when he undertook a gruelling week-long paddle trip down Ireland’s River Shannon.

All in the name of charity, reflecting on the experience two weeks later McGovern tells Travel Ireland: “Every experience in the average lifetime of a kayaker, I managed to squeeze into a week.”

This is particularly impressive given the 47-year-old has described himself as a ‘total newbie’ when it comes to the sport.

Speaking about where the idea came from to kayak from Dowra, Co Cavan to Killimer, Co Clare via 300km of the country’s largest river, McGovern says: “I’m into endurance sports like marathons. I’ve done three Ironmans [long-distance triathlon races]. Last year, 11 days before the Dublin Marathon, I got a severe groin injury – an adductor avulsion. It meant I couldn’t run.”

“Around Christmas time, I’m like: ‘What the hell do I do now? I can’t use my legs. I need something to occupy my time. I thought: ‘Well, the upper body still works.’ ” Shannon 300 was not McGovern’s first adventure for the greater good this year. Last July, he raised over €6,000 for mental health charities in his family home’s area of Blacklion/Belcoo. This was by becoming the first person to swim the 4.2km length of Lough Macnean.

While that swim lasted about an hour and forty minutes, the River Shannon kayaking journey was an entirely different kettle of fish, one originally intended to happen over five days. “I don’t do things by halves,” says McGovern. “When I get an idea, it has to be the biggest and maddest. I couldn’t think of anything madder.”

As soon as the kayaker set sail, however, adverse conditions 38

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2019

turned five days into seven. “We weren’t really planning on Hurricane Lorenzo making an appearance. The weather was against me from the very beginning.”

“The plan was to get started at 8.00 am on the Monday morning but I couldn’t hit the water until 11.30 am because of flooding. Then, I got caught up in trees after only just a few kilometers.”

The turn of events gave McGovern a scare: “It was pretty hairy.

I was on my own. A friend of a friend died in very similar circumstances, getting caught in flood water and being pinned against a tree. That flashed in my mind. Luckily, I managed to free myself. It was one of the scariest things of my life.”

That wasn’t the first issue which affected McGovern’s journey, which consisted of eight hours of paddling a day: “On the Thursday, I was trying to make Portumna before Lorenzo really kicked in. But the winds started picking up big time. I had to change my stroke and lean forward and really start digging to power through the waves. I was battling against them.”

“I pulled a muscle in my ribs at that stage. There was not much I could do. It was painful but

I had to get through it. I was taking Ibuprofen and whatever else to dull the pain. I’m still strapped up.”

Meanwhile, on the second last day – after travelling 220 kilometers - McGovern’s kayak capsized. “It was a tough battle to get to Killaloe. For four hours, I was pounding through wind and waves. By the time, I got there it was all calm. I was like: ‘Okay, I can relax a little bit. I’ll get out somewhere down here. I’ll get something to eat and shake the legs before I start again.”

“I wasn’t paying attention to which arch I was meant to go through under a bridge.

I went into one that was the closest to the shore. That’s where the fastest water is and where a pier was.

By the time I noticed, I was like an idiot talking to the camera [posting a Facebook live video for his page @theshannon300].”

McGovern jokes about the incident: “Don’t talk on the phone while driving. Don’t talk on your phone when paddling in fast waters.” However, he notes it could have been more serious: “I wasn’t wearing a helmet. It was a steel and wood pier. I could have gone the other way and easily banged my head.”

On top of the above, McGovern cites the isolation as being another reason why Shannon 300 was the toughest thing he’s ever done: “The solitude was like nothing else I’ve known. For hours upon hours, the only living creature you see is the odd swan or maybe a cow in the field. That was day after day after day.”

However, there was some upsides to the adventure.

McGovern relished the opportunity to set up camp for the evenings wherever he wanted along the Shannon. “It ended up being a case of wherever I lay my canoe, that’s my home. It turned out to be the best.”

“I’d pitch up my tent, blow up my bed, put on music and cook up coffee, noodles, soup – whatever I was eating. I had sunsets every evening. I was cut off from the world. I didn’t have to worry about anything. The feeling of freedom was immense.”

As well as this, McGovern raised over €3,500 for three Irish charities (Irish Cancer Society, ISPCA and Samaritans Ireland) and three British charities (Cancer Research UK, RSPCA and Samaritans UK). This combined with his July swim means he gathered nearly €10k for great causes this year.

If those reading in the Republic of Ireland would like to donate to McGovern’s selected charities, visit www.justgiving. com/teams/TheShannon300-IRL. Those living in the UK and Northern Ireland can visit www.justgiving.com/teams/ TheShannon300. Meanwhile, to see videos McGovern captured of his Shannon adventure, check out www.youtube.com/user/ garrymcgovern/videos.

NOVEMBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Venice Italian Restaurant

This is somewhere special to spend the evening, with a relaxing atmosphere and fine dining at its best. Experience Venice’s fine Italian cuisine, with their distinctive taste and beautiful aromas you’ll be sure to have those tastebuds tickled. With stylish facilities, they offer an elegant dining experience that their attention to detail and exceptional service will ensure. Venice is the best Italian restaurant in Galway City Centre and boasts a wide range of tasty Italian dishes.

11 Lower Abbeygate St, Galway City Phone: 091 530-751. Email: restaurantvenice@yahoo.ie

Eala Bhán

Péarla na Mara offer Irish-inspired cuisine with a Mediterranean touch in their restaurant in Oranmore. Using only the finest ingredients, locally sourced in the West and delivered daily specialising in fish, seafood, meat and poultry dishes, along with mouth-watering vegetarian dishes. Pair your meal with wines chosen from the carefully selected wine list. You are welcome to bring your own bottle of wine for a nominal corkage fee of €5 for any amount of wine bottles.

Unit 10, Howley Square, Dublin Road, Oranmore Tel: 091 483900 Email: info@pearlanamara.ie

Brasserie on the Corner

Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823

Brasserie on the Corner on Galway’s Eglinton Street specialises in delectable seafood and steak dishes. They serve lunch and dinner and both menus are created with local, seasonal produce at their heart. These delicious offerings are created using produce from local suppliers. You will also be treated to an extensive and delicious wine and cocktail menu.

You will truly find pride and passion on the plate!

The Yew Tree Restaurant

Brasserie On The Corner, Eglinton Street, Galway, Ireland Tel: +353 91 530333

If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell.

Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food.

Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255

An Port Mór Restaurant

Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West.

1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730

Ashford Castle

Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906.

Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003

Upstairs @ West Restaurant

Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit.

The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000 40

Péarla na Mara

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2019

Recommended Bars in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)

Monroe's

Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.

This famous venue in the heart of Galway city is renowned as one of the best live music venues in the city. Across two stages, they host regular National & International acts. The friendly staff will assure you of a warm welcome and they serve great food in the Tavern along with free live music seven days a week.

17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820

The Front Door

Dominick Street, Galway 091 583397 www.monroes.ie

Bosh Bar and Restaurant

Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar.

Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534

Matt Malloy’s One of Galway city’s most popular watering holes, The Front Door is a contemporary Irish bar with a late bar, live music and an extensive drinks menu. Located in Galway’s bustling Latin Quarter and spread across two floors The Front Door features five bars, including a stylish cocktail lounge and Sonny Molloy’s Whiskey Bar. The Front Door is the perfect spot to sample Galway’s nightlife.

8 Cross Street Upper, Galway, H91 YY06 Tel: (091) 563 757

This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within.

Bridge St., Westport Tel: 098 26655

The Quays Bar Galway

Roísín Dubh

It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now!

Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540

Located in the city centre in Galway’s vibrant ‘Latin Quarter’ The Quays Bar Galway is one of Galway’s most famous and historic drinking establishments. For close on 400 years The Quays has catered to both Galwegians and visitors to the city of Galway. The restaurant offers a carvery lunch and evening a la carte dinner. The Quays was awarded IMRO Connacht Live Music Venue of the year 2017.

11 Quay St, Galway Tel: (091) 568 347 NOVEMBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Explore Connaught

Westport House

Kylemore Abbey Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic Victorian walled garden, which won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food.

Glencar Waterfall Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. The most dramatic waterfall descends from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.

Arigna Mining Experience Discover what coal mining life was like for coal miners in the Arigna Valley in Roscommon from the 1700’s until its closure in 1990. Visit the exhibition area to discover the history of the mine and then take an underground tour of the mine, where the methods used to extract coal are demonstrated, with lighting and sound effects added for authenticity.

Mullaghmore

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2019

www.WestportHouse.ie

Dún Aonghasa National Museum of Ireland - Country Life The National Museum of Ireland - Country Life in Turlough Park, Castlebar houses exhibits showing how rural people in Ireland lived from the time of the Great Famine right up until the 1950s. The museum features four levels of interactive displays and exhibitions that offer a fascinating insight into the lives of the rural Irish people in years gone by.

Connemara Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Surfers and windsurfers from all over the world have ridden waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable.

Westport House is one of the finest country houses in Ireland and since it opened to the public in the 1960s, over four million visitors have passed through its doors.

There are over 30 rooms on show, where visitors can immerse themselves in over 500 years of history, going back to the time when the Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley ruled the estate. There is loads for the whole family to enjoy on the estate, including the Pirate Adventure Park, the Birds of Prey Centre and the Westport Train Tour.

Connemara is a world of unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the north through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean.

Located on Inismór in the Aran Islands, Dún Aonghasa is one of the best examples of a semi-circular stone fort in Europe.

Located on the 300ft cliffside on the south of the island, it is one of Ireland’s most visited attractions and offers stunning views that stretch the length of the island.

Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside, offering spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding countryside. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year.

Welcome to Ulster

The Giants Causway Photo: @storytravelers The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone.

The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland.

County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise.

County Donegal is in the northwest of the

‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak.

The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.

new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Mount Errigal

Belfast Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or 44

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2019

County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well.

Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the

Linsfort Church, Co. Donegal

Recommended Bars in Ulster The Crown Liquor Saloon

Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace!

Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin. 51 Donegall St., Belfast Tel: 028 9023 3768

White’s Tavern

Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down.

2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3080

Kelly’s Cellars Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food.

46 Great Victoria St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3187

This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city.

30-32 Bank St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 6058

The Duke Of York

The John Hewitt

One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further.

7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 1062

Peadar O’Donnell’s

There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore.

Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry.

59-63 Waterloo St., Derry Tel: 028 7126 7295 NOVEMBER 2019 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox

Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014.

Chic, smart and very good.

The Ginger Bistro

Coco

1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121

55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers.

1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811

The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger.

7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421

Deane’s Restaurant

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150

Shu

They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table.

253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655

Vanilla Restaurant

Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.

Telfords Restaurant

Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268

Lough Erne Resort

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000

Sun Kee Restaurant

One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years.

42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics.

36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134

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Sakura

In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant.

82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590

Speranza Restaurant

This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

Lusty Beg

This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300

16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - NOVEMBER 2019

MATTHEW WELDON

Antique, vintage and estate jewellery

Matthew.weldons Courtville - Matthew Weldon Antique Gallery, Powerscourt Townhouse, 59 South William Street, Dublin 2 Website - www.matthewweldon.ie | Telephone 00353 (1) 6794042

Explore Ulster

Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end.

The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast.

Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there.

In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value.

Dunluce Castle With a rich history, in a stunning, location, Dunluce Castle on the coast of Antrim is just waiting to be explored. Visitor information includes an audio visual tour of the castle, with a ‘treasure hunt’ encouraging younger visitors to explore.

You can also download a Dunluce Castle app for iPhone and Android devices, available free of charge from the App Store and Google Play.

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The Old Bushmills Distillery Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness.

Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens.

Ulster American Folk Park Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories.

Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier.

Down County Museum Situated next to the Down Cathedral, the Down County Museum houses modern galleries telling the stories of the area and fantastic temporary exhibitions. Learn about the museum’s history as a gaol and see the Downpatrick High Cross before relaxing in their new Cathedral View Tea Room.

Belleek Pottery One of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages.

Glenveagh National Park The second largest national park in Ireland, Glenveagh is a remote and beautiful wilderness in the north-west of Donegal.

Full of rugged mountains, pristine lakes and tumbling waterfalls. Visitors can also take a tour of Glenveagh Castle on the banks of Lough Veagh and take a walk through the beautiful walled gardens, which boast a multitude of exotic plant.

Florence Court Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours.

Travel Through Time with

Armagh Georgian Festival

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orthern Ireland’s much loved Armagh Georgian Festival is returning from Wednesday, November 27 until Sunday, December 1 - marking the beginning of the county’s Christmas festive season.

Gorgeous historic buildings will open their doors, as well as remember Richard Robinson. The latter was enthroned as Archbishop of Armagh in 1765 and is the person responsible for transforming the county into a place of stunning Georgian architecture.

Whether delving into the era’s literature and fashion; arts and food, this period of history is still intriguing today. With this in mind, organisers say Armagh Georgian Festival will give visitors a true insight into life in its city during these past times.

The event includes a Georgian Banquet at Archbishop Robinson’s Palace. There, guests will travel through the mists of time to Georgian Armagh where an evening like no other awaits. Built in 1770, the beautiful palace will be made available for attendees to enjoy the lavish surroundings and experience a flavour of Georgian high society.

Meanwhile, on Georgian Day itself, Saturday November 30, Armagh’s ancient streets will be buzzing with evocative Georgian costumed figures, street entertainment and festive market stalls. The latter will be hosted by traders in traditional dress, offering high quality gifts perfect for stocking stuffers and locally produced artisan food and drink.

Other celebrations include a themed Christmas children’s market, horse and carriage rides, live music, as well as various talks and tours. On top of this, as darkness falls over the festival on the Saturday a dramatic light show will burst to life. Titled ‘A Christmas Cracker’, it will illuminate the backdrop of the Georgian Market House, creating a festive atmosphere with contemporary and seasonal music.

For further information and updates regarding the Armagh Georgian Festival, visit www.visitarmagh.com/georgian. You can also check the Visit Armagh Facebook page @visitarmagh.

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Great Irish Writers KEVIN BARRY

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escribed as a blend of Roddy Doyle and Nick Cave, acclaimed writer Kevin Barry was born in Limerick in 1969. According to interviews, he spent much of his youth travelling, living in 17 addresses by the time he was 36, including places in Cork, Santa Barbara, Barcelona, and Liverpool before settling in Sligo. There he purchased and renovated a run-down Royal Irish Constabulary barracks. The desire to settle down was reportedly driven primarily by Barry’s difficulty moving his large number of books from house to house.

Described as a blend of Roddy Doyle and Nick Cave, acclaimed writer Kevin Barry was born in Limerick in 1969. According to interviews, he spent much of his youth travelling, living in 17 addresses by the time he was 36, including places in Cork, Santa Barbara, Barcelona, and Liverpool before settling in Sligo. There he purchased and renovated a run-down Royal Irish Constabulary barracks. The desire to settle down was reportedly driven primarily by Barry’s difficulty moving his large number of books from house to house.

During his time in Cork, Barry worked as a freelance journalist, contributing a regular column to the Irish Examiner. Keen to become an author, he purchased a ‘Father Ted’ style caravan and parked it

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in a field out West in the county, spending the next six months writing what he later described as ‘a great bulk of pastiche’.

Since then Barry has earned a vast amount of acclaim with novels City of Bohane (2011) and Beatlebone (2015), as well as short story collections There Are Little Kingdoms (2007) and Dark Lies the Island (2012). For his debut novel – a dystopian thriller set in West Ireland in 2053 – Barry won the International Dublin Literary Award, receiving €100,000. Lord Mayor of Dublin at the time Naoise Ó Muirí said he was “thrilled” that someone of “such immense talent’ took home the award,” calling Barry’s characters “flamboyant and malevolent, speaking in a vernacular like no other.”

In 2015, his follow up Beatlebone, a fictionalised account of John Lennon’s time in County Mayo,

won the £10,000 Goldsmith’s Prize.

The award aims to reward British and Irish fiction that breaks the mould or extends the possibilities of the novel form.

2019 may be Barry’s biggest year to date. Not only was his third novel Night Boat to Tangier – focusing on two aging criminals at the tail ends of their damagefilled careers - shortlisted for the coveted Booker Prize, he made the transition to screenwriting with new Irish film Dark Lies the Island.

Adapting one of his own short stories, it centres on a family feud in a small Irish town over the course of a week. Featuring an impressive cast of Irish stars – Charlie Murphy, Moe Dunford, Pat Shortt, Peter Coonan and Tommy Tiernan – the movie was released in cinemas last month on October 18, after receiving positive reviews on the film festival circuit.