Travel ireland magazine Volume 1 issue 3 by Travel Ireland Magazine

Travelireland Volume 1 Issue 3 July 2014

magazine

Skys the limit at the

Bray airshow

Make a wish at Blarney castle

Tribal Art Galway International Arts Festival Breathing under clay at the

bog snorkelling championships

Kerry Gems - Dingle and Kenmare

Composed by

BILL WHELAN

Produced by

MOYA DOHERTY

Directed by

JOHN McCOLGAN

24 June - 31 August

contents... Welcome to our July issue, Welcome to Travel Ireland magazine which we hope you will enjoy reading during your stay. We also hope you will visit the places we recommend and explore our beautiful island as a whole. Ireland is full of history, myth and legends. It is a place full of historic sites to visit including castles, monastic settlements and museums yet modern and forward looking in its present day facilities and ethos. We are a fun loving nation who bids everyone a ‘Céad míle fáilte ‘or one hundred thousand welcomes and we hope you enjoy your stay and come back again soon.

Publisher/Managing Director John Carey

Director Paul Daly

Features Editor Anthony O’Keeffe

Design and Art Direction Tim Evans

Credit Control Manager Nichola Thomas nichola@ellenmediacom.ie

Advertising

John Carey john@ellenmediacom.ie 0879113732 Contributors: John McCurdy, Stephen Walker, Anthony O’Keefe, Paula Moore, Patrick O’Neill, Pauric O’Donnell We wish to record our thanks to Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht. And to the Northern Ireland Tourist Board, and The National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI), for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishe’rs prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.

05 - WELCOME TO LEINSTER 06 - EXPLORE LEINSTER 08 - Stret Performance Championships 10 - THEATRE 12 - Riverdance 14 - Iveagh Gardens 16 - Kilkenny Castle 18 - Tayto Park 19 - Bray Air Display 21 - WELCOME TO MUNSTER 22 - Blarney Castle 25 - Dingle 27 - Kenmare 28 - EXPLORE MUNSTER 30 - Valentia Island 35 - WELCOME TO CONNAUGHT 36 - Galway International Arts Festival 39 - EXPLORE CONNAUGHT 40 - Galway Races 42 - Fisherman Out of Ireland 43 - WELCOME TO ULSTER 44 - EXPLORE ULSTER 46 - Earagail Arts Festival 47 - Medieval Festival Dunluce 48 - City of Derry 49 - Bog Snorkelling 50 - ULSTER RECOMMENDED

Leinster - The east coast province

einster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see.

Hill of Tara

High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitor’s attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was the last great battle fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach.

County Wicklow has several world

St. Stephen’s Green

County Dublin

is the home of the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife to rival London, Paris, Rome, or Amsterdam. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city. If you want to escape to the country without actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country.

County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the

famous sites and attractions from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attraction. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the west and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the east, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world.

RTÉ All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways –Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails. Carlow also hosts a wonderful arts festival every June.

Laois

is where you can try your hand at a range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Flyfishing and Game shooting Museum .

Kilkenny City was voted Irelands Top

Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor.

Kilkenny Castle

Longford is situated in the basin of the

Powerscourt Gardens

Kildare

is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone. Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the

River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base.

Wexford

Finally, is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster! JULY 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 5

Explore Leinster

Ardgillan Castle and Demesne

Phoenix Park The Phoenix Park in Dublin is one of the largest and most beautiful urban parks in any capital city in Europe. Stretching over 1, 752 acres the park hosts an eclectic mix of beautiful landscapes, historic buildings, the home of the President of Ireland and Dublin Zoo. It also has herds of elegant fallow deer roaming its pastures. The Phoenix Park Visitor Centre has a historical interpretation and an audio-visual presentation of the Phoenix Park throughout the ages. For details or bookings the centre can be contacted on 01 677 0095 or via email at phoenixparkvisitorcentre@opw.ie A truly remarkable place for a stroll during your stay in Dublin.

Ardgillan Castle and Demesne is situated in North County Dublin on an elevated coastline between Balbriggan and Skerries, 20 miles north of Dublin City. The demesne is well signposted off the M1 motorway.The park consists of 194 acres of rolling open grassland, mixed woodland and gardens..The gardens are in three main parts, the formal Rose Garden and the Potentilla collection to the west of the castle, and the walled garden to the north-west which contains herb, vegetable, fruit, and ornamental sections. To visit: email ardgillancastle@fingalcoco.ie or phone 01 849 2786.

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Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it is a very interesting place indeed to visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol situated at Inichicore Road, Kilmainham Dublin served as a prison for 128 years and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance. Tel: 01453 5984.

The National Museum of Ireland

Kilkenny City

Kilkenny City is definitely one of the finest arts centred places on our island. In June the city hosts the International Gospel Choir festival. This festival brings the best gospel choirs and musicians from all over the world to Ireland. This year, choirs from the US and Europe will gather in Kilkenny City and County and the South East for a feast of the best gospel music. However there are lots more sights to see in Kilkenny with its Castle, theatre, medieval cobbled streets and old world charm. Visit the 13th-century Black Abbey for a world of candlelit serenity, with the largest rosary window of its kind in Ireland. For more information contact the Kilkenny Tourism website.

Kilmainham Gaol (Jail)

Glendalough This beautiful glacial valley in County Wicklow is renowned as the place where Cistercian monks settled in the sixth century and the remains of the monastic priory including a round tower can still be seen today. Known locally as “the valley of the two lakes” , the locals also say it will still your mind, inspire your heart and fill your soul. The early Christian monastic settlement was founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century and from this developed the “Monastic City”. To book a tour of the Monastic Site – contact the Visitor Centre on 0404 45325/45352. Please note that bookings are only taken by telephone or fax – not by e-mail.

The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. Admission to the museum is free and there are numerous exhibitions talks and tours, visitors should contact the museum at Telephone Number 01 6777444.

Explore Leinster

The Guinness Storehouse

The Guinness Storehouse Formerly known as the Guinness Hop Store, the Guinness Storehouse is laid out over seven floors surrounded by a glass atrium that rises up through its centre. You make your way up on a self-guided tour, beginning on the first floor, where you are introduced to the beer’s principal ingredients of water, barley, hops and yeast. As you make your way up the various floors, you get to learn all about the beer’s history, the central part that the Guinness family played in the development of the city, and of the world famous advertising campaigns that did so much to help promote it. When you reach the seventh floor, you arrive at the Gravity Bar, where you get the chance to pour your own pint, and from where you can enjoy the spectacular 360 degree panoramic views of the city below. Tours are 16.50 Euro, which includes your pint of Guinness. Which might sound a bit steep for a self-guided tour, but it’s all beautifully laid out and the whole experience is richly rewarding.

The Chester Beatty Library

With free admission and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library is a must-see on any Dublin visitor’s itinerary. As the only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and rated at number 3 in TripAdvisor’s list of recommended Dublin cultural attractions, the library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world. Inside you will find exhibits from across the globe, from countries across Asia, the Middle East, North Africa and Europe. Manuscripts, miniature paintings, prints, drawings, rare books and decorative arts complete this amazing collection, and all the result of the collecting activities of just one man, Sir Alfred Chester Beatty (18751968). Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you will find on display herer. In its diversity, the collection captures much of the richness of human creative expression from about 2700 BC to the present day. Visitors are strongly advised to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3 and 4pm. But be warned, they are on a first come first served basis, and places are limited to 15 on each tour. Not to be missed. Opening hours, 10-5 Mon-Fri, Sat 11-5, Sun 1-5pm.

The Book of Kells The Old Library and the Book of Kells Exhibition in Trinity College Dublin are the first things that all visitors gravitate to when first setting foot in Dublin. Located in the heart of the city, a walk through the cobbled stones of Trinity College Dublin will bring visitors back to the 18th century, when the magnificent Old Library building was constructed. Inside the Book of Kells is housed, a 9th-century gospel manuscript famous throughout the world. And upstairs, you’ll find yourself in the magical environs of the justly famous Long Room. The Book of Kells itself is celebrated for its lavish decoration. The manuscript contains the four Gospels in Latin based on a Vulgate text, written on vellum (prepared calfskin), in a bold and expert version of the script known as “insular majuscule”. The place of origin of the Book of Kells is generally attributed to the scriptorium of the monastery founded around 561 by St Colum Cille on Iona, an island off the west coast of Scotland. In 806, following a Viking raid on the island which left 68 of the community dead, the Columban monks took refuge in a new monastery at Kells, County Meath. It must have been close to the year 800 that the Book of Kells was written, although there is no way of knowing if the book was produced wholly at Iona or at Kells, or partially at each location. It has been on display in the Old Library at Trinity College Dublin from the mid 19th century, and attracts over 500,000 visitors a year. Since 1953 it has been bound in four volumes. Two volumes are on public view, one opened to display a major decorated page, and one to show two pages of script. The volumes are changed at regular intervals. Guided tours of the campus, including the Old Library, The Books of Kells, and the magnificent Long Room upstairs are 12 Euro. Opening hours: 9:30-5:00 (4:30 Sun)

Cultural and Historical Walking Tours

The city of Dublin has been the beating heart of Ireland for over one and a half thousand years. The city streets have been home to the Vikings, the Normans, the Elizabethans, the Georgians and the Victorians. And there are hidden gems there to be discovered around every corner. What better way to explore its secret nooks and crannies than to take one of the many cultural and historical walking tours that the city has to offer. At Dublin Decoded, Arran Henderson provides a wide range of fascinating insights into Dublin’s history, with particular emphasis on its art and architecture. You can choose from one of the organized tours, whose themes include “How To Read A Painting” - symbols and meaning at the National Gallery; Architecture of Georgian Splendour, and an historic Medieval Treasure Hunt. Alternatively you can talk to him about designing your own, bespoke tour to meet your own particular interests. For more detail and pictures, see the full tour menu at dublindecoded. com.

JULY 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 7

The Street Performance World Championship

...becomes The City Spectacular

reland biggest and best-loved free family festival, the Laya Healthcare Street Performance World Championship, has undergone a full makeover and rebrand. It has been relaunched in 2014 as the Laya Healthcare City Spectacular. For two consecutive weekends in July, first in Dublin and then in Cork, the city streets and parks will be completely transformed, by day and by night. 8 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-JULY 2014

Aerial Manx

With over 300,000 attending last year’s events, this year’s City Spectacular looks set to attract an ever larger gathering of families from all around the country, whether they be locals or tourists in the midst of their summer holiday. Slap bang in the middle of the summer, both Dublin’s Merrion Square and Cork’s Fitzgerald Park will be home to the biggest street performance competition in the world.

Jack Wise

This first-of-its-kind festival is a true collaboration with those at the heart of these cities, which includes City Councils, local businesses, Irish arts organizations as well as internationally renowned performance artists, all coming together in a city celebration highlighting all the things that make our cities spectacular.

Rhythm Painter Come and witness Ireland’s largest family festival transforming Dublin and Cork this July, with free festivals in Dublin’s Merrion Square (July 11th – 13th), Cork’s Fitzgerald Park (July 19th and 20th) and a citywide program of events both day and night across Dublin City (July 11th – 27th).

Derek Derek This year, alongside the world’s best street performers, the festival is expanding throughout the cities to include concerts, family picnics, artisan food events and outdoor screenings, inviting hundreds of thousands of people to enjoy the best of what these famous cities have to offer.

Woody Woodman

Lords of Strut

See more at: www.cityspectacular.com JULY 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 9

Theatre

The Abbey

Aristocrats, by Brian Friel From Philadelphia, Here I Come! to Translations, Brian Friel’s plays have delighted generations of Irish theatre audiences. And now we have a chance to return once omre to the village of Ballybeg with the latest production of Friel’s Aristocrats. The once influential O’Donnells have gathered to celebrate a wedding in their crumbling home, Ballybeg Hall. The father, Justice O’Donnell is on his death-bed. His upper class family has survived wars and famine but the old order is collapsing. Can they forge a new life for themselves? First premiered at the Abbey Theatre in 1979, Aristocrats is a revealing family drama which subtly confronts a politically charged time in Ireland. Patrick Mason, the acclaimed director of Dancing at Lughnasa returns to direct one of Brian Friel’s finest plays.

BOOKING DETAILS

Throughout July. Times: Mon – Sat 7.30pm, Sat matinee 2pm Tickets: €13 – €45 / Conc. €13 – €25

The Gate

The Price, by Arthur Miller. Set in New York in the ‘60s in the attic room of a soon-tobe-demolished house, two brothers meet after a 16 year estrangement to dispose of their dead parents’ property. The first is a policeman who sacrificed his education and probably a career as a scientist to care for his ruined, invalid father. The other, who arrives late, is an eminent surgeon who walked out on the demands of family to concentrate on medicine and personal success. Their confrontation leads them to examine the events and qualities of their very different lives and the price each of them has had to pay.

BOOKING DETAILS Throughout July, 7:30pm.

10 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-JULY 2014

Previews €20 All Mondays €25 Tuesday to Thursday €32 Friday & Saturday €35 Saturday Matinees €25

National Concert Hall The National Concert Hall is home to the RTÉ National Symphony Orchestra, Irish Baroque Orchestra, and the National Chamber Choir of Ireland. But its cultural brief extends across all musical genres from Classical and Irish Trad, to jazz, folk and world music. Highlights this July include the north African desert nomads Tinariwen on July 1st, the Spirit of America on July 4th, its Independence Day, Nigel Kennedy:Bach Plus on the 12th, Kevin Fitzpatrick on July 25th at lunchtime, and Contemporary Japanese And Irish Piano Music that evening. And on August 2nd you can catch the Orquesta Buena Vista Social Club.

The Gaiety

Riverdance 20th. Anniversary. See article on page 12.

The Project

Timon of Athens, William Shakespeare. A new version of one of the most rarely performed plays of William Shakespeare. Timon is rich and overly generous. He lavishes gifts on his friends without care. His friends are the corrupt city leaders who flatter Timon and privately mock his generosity. When Timon finds that his wealth is exhausted, he sends requests to his friends for help. They callously turn him down. His faith in humanity destroyed , he rages against all mankind and goes to live alone in the wilderness. In the wilderness, the now misanthropic Timon discovers gold, and when news of his discovery gets out. The false friends and hangers-on seek him out in the hope of further generosity. This new abridged version, featuring nine talented actors, was last performed in Ireland at the Dublin theatre Festival 1978. Its tale of reckless spending and careless indulgence followed by betrayal contains some of Shakespeare’s most powerful language and speeches, and echo Ireland’s recent economic collapse.

BOOKING DETAILS July 4-19, 8:15pm 16 Euro

Bord Gais Energy Theatre Dirty Dancing, the musical.

The producers of the smash hit show Dirty Dancing – The Classic Story on Stage are delighted to announce that the show will once again set pulses racing at the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre Dublin when it returns in July 2014 as part of a brand new tour of the UK and Ireland. Over five million people worldwide have now seen this sensational production, with the London show alone having been seen by over one million people. Having opened in London in 2006, Dirty Dancing – The Classic Story On Stage was sold out six months in advance. The show played for five years at the Aldwych Theatre, breaking all box office records with advance ticket sales of over £15 million, which made it the fastest ever selling West End show.

BOOKING DETAILS July 8-26, 7:30pm 25-60 Euro

Mermaid Arts Centre

Wuthering Heights, presented by Chapterhouse Theatre Company. Chapterhouse Theatre Company is proud to present Emily Bronte’s classic love story set on the beautiful, mysterious wilderness of the Yorkshire moors. The play if being performed at Avondale House, the birthplace and home of Charles Stewart Parnell (1846-1891) one of the greatest political leaders of Irish history. Set in a magnificent forest park of over 500 acres with tree trails and walks ranging in duration from one to five hours. This treasured story of enduring love and passion has thrilled and entranced for generations and is now brought alive on stage in an adaptation by award winning writer Laura Turner and presented at some of the most beautiful open-air venues across the UK and Ireland. Performed on Saturday July 19th. 7pm, admission 16 Euro. To book contact Mermaid Arts Centre on 01/2724030 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie

Castleway Golden Lane, Dublin 2

236 Lower rathmines road, dubLin 6 teL: 01-49770

236 Lower rathmines road, dubLin 6 teL: 01-4977057

JULY 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 11

Riverdance 20 Years On

ichael Flatley is a remarkable man. And not just by his own account. A brilliant boxer, flautist and dancer, and, apparently an accomplished chess player. But much more importantly than any of that, he’s incredibly lucky. When he was booked to oversee the dance act that was to perform during the interval at the 1994 Eurovision Song Contest, which was being held that year in Dublin at the Point theatre (now the O2), he was about to turn 36. Which is, as any professional dancer will tell you, considerably past your peak at the best of times. For someone like Flatley, who’d put his body through so much punishment already, he really ought at that stage to have been concentrating exclusively on choreography. But if ever there were a man born to be centre stage, and in the spotlight, it’s Flatley. So the 1994 Eurovision came just in the nick of time. Those seven minutes were to transform not just his life, but the lives of scores of dancers who were to perform with or under him in Riverdance and in its various offshoots ever since. And this year, to marks its 20th anniversary, Riverdance is making a triumphant return to the city where it all began at the Gaiety Theatre. With its fusion of Irish and International music and dance, the show broke all box office records during its

12 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-JULY 2014

world première run in Dublin, with the original 10 performances being increased to 151 in subsequent months. Following on from which, they enjoyed a hugely successful tour to New York, Belfast and Cork. So successful in fact, that eventually they had to set up three separate companies. And it is these three sister companies that have been touring the world ever since, wowing audiences throughout North America, Australia, Asia, Europe, South Africa and most recently South America. All three of the touring companies are named after Irish rivers, with the Foyle Company performing in Dublin’s Gaiety Theatre, where they have been based for over ten years. The Liffey Company have been touring throughout Europe and are about to embark on a major return tour in the UK. While the Moy Company embarks on a groundbreaking 60 city tour of China. Each of the companies consists of up to 55 cast and crew members, drawn from the cream of Irish musicians in the Riverdance Band, together with a spectacular array of talent from Spain and America, The music and lyrics are by Bill Whelan, and the show is produced by Moya Doherty and directed by John McColgan, who together developed the original idea. And as for Mr. Flatley, who kicked the whole thing off. Thanks to Riverdance, he is now worth over 500 million Euro.

BOOKING DETAILS Throughout July Tues-Sat 7:30pm Sun 5:30pm Sat matinee 2:30pm Tickets 20-55 Euro

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The Iveagh Gardens

he Iveagh Gardens can be found in between Harcourt Street and the back of the National Concert Hall, just round the corner from St. Stephen’s Green in the heart of Dublin. They are among the finest and least known of Dublin’s parks and gardens, and were designed by Ninian Niven in 1865. The gardens are a wonderful example of the type of landscape architecture that comes between the ‘French Formal’ and the ‘English Landscape’ of the mid to late 19th century. And you will find a unique collection of landscape features within, which include rustic grottos and cascades, formal sunken panels of lawns and fountains, together with rockeries and rooteries, all in the midst of a small, hidden wooded wilderness in the heart of the city. More recently, the gardens have come to be used for a series of summer concerts that cover all sorts of musical genres, with a clear emphasis on multi-cultural events and on world music. There have for instance been a number of highly successful Africa Days held there, where families spend the day sampling exotic food, picking up brilliantly coloured pieces of clothing made of far away fabrics, and all to the backdrop of infectious rhythms and beguiling if unfamiliar harmonies. 14 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-JULY 2014

Africa Day

The Iveagh Gardens

Christie Moore

This July there are a number of summer concerts planned covering a wide variety of music. On Friday July 11th., national treasure and Ireland’s favourite troubadour Christie Moore will be making his Iveagh Gardens debut. He is set to be joined on stage with a veritable who’s who of Irish trad. There’s Máirtín O’Connor on accordion, Cathal Hayden on fiddle and the banjo, Seamie O’Dowd on guitar and Jimi Higgins backing them all up on percussion. The following day, on Saturday 12th, local new boys on the block, Little Green Cars get up to strut their stuff with their mix of amiable pop and the occasional flash of rock. The following weekend though, on Friday the 18th and Saturday the 19th the Gardens have something of a coup, when indie king pins The National play on two successive nights. Their 2010 album High Violet proved to be their breakthrough album for those who hadn’t already climbed on board. Matt Berninger’s elegiac lyrics are couched in his velvet baritone, and it’s all encased in the lush strings and guitars of Aaron and Bryce Dessner and the rest of the band. Not only that, but they’ve a cracking couple of support acts lined up on both nights. With fellow Brooklyn resident Phosphorescent joining them on the Friday, and retro 80s synth maestro Owen Pallett kicking the evening off on the Saturday. JULY 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 15

Kilkenny Castle

8 Centuries of History Opening hours 9-5:30pm, admission 6 Euro for adults, students and children 2,50 Euro.

The original Anglo-Norman stone castle was built for William Marshal, 4th Earl of Pembroke in 1195 and was completed in 1213. It was a symbol of Norman occupation and in its original thirteenth-century condition it would have formed a vital element of the defences of the town, with four large circular corner towers and a massive ditch, part of which can still be seen today on the Parade. This first stone castle was constructed on the site of an earlier timber structure. Recent excavations have revealed a sodbuilt structure and sections of a large earthen rampart beneath the garden and parade ranges, both pre-dating the stone building. The earliest description of the stone castle proper was recorded in 1307, when the buildings on the site were listed as, ‘a castle in which are a hall, four towers, a chapel, a mote (moat) and divers other houses’. This confirms that the form of the castle was similar to that used at the royal castles of Dublin and Limerick, in that it was a ‘keepless castle’. In other words, it was built without a massive tower, or keep, as its principal feature. Instead it had four towers, an encircling wall, and a moat. Features of particular interest from those earlier phases of construction that you should try to look out for when you visit are the wicker centering, used to support the vault, which is clearly visible in the lowest level of the west tower. And the fine medieval chamber in the Parade (South) Tower, that has deep “embrasures”, those thin gaps in the walls that are such a feature of medieval castles, allowing people within to look out, whilst 16 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-JULY 2014

in Kilkenny’s Majestic Castle

ILKENNY CASTLE towers over the medieval, cathedral city of Kilkenny. And as it does so, it commands a strategically vital crossing point over the Nore River, which meanders its way through the town. The eight centuries that it has stood there are reflected in the different architectural styles that are evident in its walls. This castle has history coursing through its corridors. protecting them from the winds without. Two centuries after its construction at the end of the 12th century, Kilkenny Castle became the principal Irish residence of the powerful Butler family, who lived there for almost 600 years. Their ownership began when James, 3rd Earl of Ormond purchased the castle in 1391. But it was Thomas, 10th Earl of Ormond, who made the most significant changes to the castle’s structure two hundred years later, converting it from a medieval fortress into a more modern and comfortable dwelling, though still within the stout, encircling walls. Having already transformed Ormond Castle in Carrick on Suir during the 1560s and 70s, it is recorded in 1580-81 that, ‘This year Thomas

Earl of Ormond began the great gallery and the roofing of the Tower over the Nore in the great Castle of Kilkenny’. This suggests that the imposing Long Gallery, which was situated on the second floor of the central block, was being built at this time. It is also probable that he made improvements to castle grounds similar to those that he made at Ormond Castle, where he is known to have extended his gardens and orchards. That historic association that the Butler family has always had with the Castle and with the town that it protected lasted all the way up until 1967, when Arthur, 6th Marquess of Ormonde presented the castle to the people of Kilkenny in return for a token payment of £50.

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Open 7 Days Located on Top Floor of St. Stephens Green Centre

www.donegalshop.ie

Top Floor, St. Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 Phone: 014754621 Website: www.donegalshop.ie JULY 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 17

Tayto Park Really is Great Fun!

very day we hear more and more about the dangers of obesity, and the need to wean our children off the diet of fast food and junk that so many of them have become increasingly addicted to. And which is having such a disastrous effect on their health. So the idea of yet another theme park promoting, of all things, crisps is bound to cause a certain degree of unease. On the other hand, the only thing as crucial to the health of children other than their diet, is the need to encourage them to get out and run around a bit, instead of spending every hour of their lives glued to some kind of a screen or other, in doleful isolation. Happily, Tayto Park does far more to facilitate and encourage exercise and activity than it does to promote crisps. And in any case, it’s just great fun! Tayto Park is situated just outside of Ashbourne, half an hour down the M2, and is set over 55 acres. There’s an excellent and extensive programme of activities for kids there and it really does provide an unforgettable day out for the whole family. For the slightly older kids, there are a number of activity playgrounds, with all sorts of equipment to climb up, swing on or slide down. And you’ll find a large number of adults gazing up in wonder at their 8 year olds swinging 15 feet up in the air, thinking rather you than me. There are plenty of swings and slides for the younger ones too, and a variety of animal sanctuaries to visit, where they can have a look at wild buffalo roaming the plains. While there are others with wolves, foxes and lynx, and another where they can catch a rare glimpse of lions, leopards and tigers nonchalantly ambling about the place. In between which, they can wander in and out of Indian tipi tents, have tea in a tree house, or make a wish at the dream catcher falls. And it is all impressively kitted out with restaurants, bathroom facilities and ample parking. Shameless advertising yes. But you’ll be delighted with the free packets of crisps you can give them each as you leave. Because after all that activity, they’ll be in need of a few calories. And it really is a great way to spend an afternoon with the kids. Opening hours, 10-5, 13 Euro per person, or 44 Euro for 2 adults and 2 children.

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The Bray Air Display Takes to the skies in the South of Dublin

reland’s largest free air show takes off at 3.30pm on Sunday, July 20th. Last year’s spectacle attracted a record-breaking 85,000 spectators, and there are even more people expected again this year. The ‘Flying Dentist’, former aerobatic champion Eddie Goggins, and the ‘Flying Farmer’, former RAF pilot Gerry Humphreys, are teaming up once again as ‘Aer Dynamics’. Their smoke-filled displays are set to fill the skies with crossover loops, synchronised hammerheads and split shamrocks. And once again, the show opens with the Aer Lingus A321. The Twister Team trio are also making a welcome return, in their Silence Twister aircraft. LIkewise the Pitts Trig Team and the Augusta Westland Aw 139 twin engine helicopter will similarly be entertaining the large crowds expected.

But the day’s highlight is likely to be the unique display by three vintage aircraft; the Iolar from Aer Lingus, along with two Chipmunks, and all flying in retro Irish Air Corps colours. Meanwhile, this year’s other headline acts include The Vampires of the Norwegian Air Force Historical Squadron, the Mig 15, the Hawker Hunter and The Sabre, which are all set to make their Bray debut. Sé Pardy, the Display Director from Simtech Aviation, said: “This year’s display programme is the most family-friendly yet, with lots of spectacular aerial action for visitors of all ages to enjoy. From vintage planes to high speed aerobic formations, we’re welcoming top pilots from Ireland and around the world to Bray, to showcase aviation at its very best.” For the first time this year, the three hour display will be streamed live through AerTv.ie,

helping the Bray Air Display reach international audiences online. The Bray Air Display is just one of the highlights in the annual Bray Summerfest programme, which runs over five themed weekends from July 5th until August 4th. The extensive programme includes free live music performances, over 60 free family events, a food and gardening weekend and an open air cinema. Due to the large crowds expected on July 20th, spectators are strongly advised to use the DART, Dublin Bus and other public transport services as parking restrictions will be in place throughout the town. More information around the Bray Air Display, which gets underway at 3.30pm, is available from http://www.brayairdisplay. com/ or http://www.braysummerfest.com/. JULY 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 19

hether it is for an evening meal, a light snack or just a lunch, Travel Ireland recommends the following eateries in the Leinster area for their value for money, quality of service and superb cuisine.

Juniors

Café Topolis

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster

2 Bath Ave., Dublin 4. This little Deli/Bistro is a gem…. if going at lunch time be prepared to queue.

38-9 Ormonde Quay, Dublin 1 tel 01 872 0003

71-2 S. George’s St., Dublin 2 tel 01 475 5001

Thornton’s Restaurant

14-15 Trinity St., Dublin 2, Tel 01 6771060. Classic Bistro food in the Modern style with Master Chef Ireland’s. Nick Munier at Front of House.

Above the Fitzwilliam Hotel, Stephen’s Green tel 01 478 7008 This one star Michelin restaurant is, as they say, reassuringly expensive. Which is only as it should be as the man in charge is Ireland’s finest chef, Kevin Thornton. If you have any intention of cementing a relationship, or of instigating a new one, this is the place to take them.

The Good World

18 S George’s St, Dublin 2 tel 01 677 5373 There’s been a huge influx of Chinese in Dublin of late, and the choice of Chinese food in the city has improved no end. But this is still the best place to find dim sum. And significantly, most of the people you’ll find eating here are other Chinese diners.

Peploes

16 St Stephens Green, Dublin 2, Tel 01 6763144. One of Dublin’s most popular eateries and great for those pre -Theatre meals.

777

Yamamori Izakaya “Raises the ceiling on Dublin dining” Tom Doorley

Dax

23 Pembroke St., Dublin 2, Tel 01 6761494. Beautiful French cuisine in Dublin’s Georgian quarter. Only 5mins walk from St Stephens Green.

Zaytoon

13 S. George’s St, Dublin 2 tel 01 645 8001 The original Yamamori on George’s Street still serves up the best and simplest Japanese food in Dublin. But their sushi bar on the quays, which is really more of a restaurant, runs it a close second. And if you’re looking for something a bit more funky, with a fusion vibe as opposed to strictly Japanese fair, then you can head across the road on George’s street to their latest venture at Izakaya.

Kafka

14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2, Tel. 01 677 3595. If you are looking for somewhere quick to sit and eat this place has the best kebabs in town, cooked in a clay oven.

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Yamamori Sushi Yamamori

Pichet

7 Castle House, S George’s St., Dublin 2, tel 01 425 4052 A little pricey for a Mexican restaurant, but well worth it. Beautifully decked out and effortlessly fashionable, you could comfortably skip the main courses and go instead for a selection of starters, which tend to be as generous as they are enticing. And they provide the perfect accompaniment to the cocktails they serve there.

Parliament St., Dublin 2, Tel. 01 6704961. The home to the best Pizza in Dublin.

236 Lower Rathmines Rd., Dublin 6, Tel: 01-4977057. This little gem cooks high quality bistro food at very affordable prices

23 Pembroke Street Upper, Dublin 2 01 676 1494 | olivier@dax.ie | www.dax.ie

Welcome to Munster

Bunratty Castle

unster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East and from Clare Limerick, Kerry and down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province; this coupled with the vast green countryside and three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) makes Munster a must see destination for tourists. Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past. You can explore at your own leisure or join in a guided tour with our experienced guides. At night time the castle is the impressive setting for the medieval castle banquets which are held all year round. Travelling down the coast and Limerick is the next port of call. This year Limerick has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture and it is all happening this year. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes. County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat

anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry this year and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August and culminates in the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent ‘dome’ four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for

City of Limerick

Sea Kayaking in Cork

all to enjoy. One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic scenes in all Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale including the 12th century round tower, High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, 13th century Gothic cathedral, 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Contact : Telephone No: 062 61437. Fax No: +353 62 62988..E-mail: rockofcashel@opw.ie. County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, The wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park, the world famous Fota Island Golf course, wonderful coastlines and a City nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from East to West or North to South in this sprawling county and there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Which although it may be the last county on the eastern seaboard, it certainly is well worth the visit. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’ and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains. Visit Munster- you know it makes sense!

JULY 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 21

Blarney Castle

Blarney Castle, Queen Elizabeth I and its Famous Stone.

Opening hours 9-7pm in the summer, 9-5 on Sundays.

larney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors to Munster ever since. People come from all over the world to kiss the Blarney Stone, only to leave with miraculous powers of eloquence. The castle that you visit today is actually the third to have been built there on the site. The first building was erected in the tenth century and was made of wood. Then around 1210 A.D. this was replaced by a stone structure which had the entrance some twenty feet above the ground on the north face. This building was subsequently demolished, leaving only the foundations. But in 1446, the castle we rebuilt by Dermot McCarthy, King of Munster. And it is this, the third castle to be built here, that you can visit today. Over the next 600 hundred years all sorts of illustrious visitors made their way to the famous castle. In the late 16th century, Queen Elizabeth I of England sent the Earl of Leicester over to take possession of the castle. But whenever he tried to negotiate with the Munster King, McCarthy always suggested they discuss it over a sumptuous banquet. What was the Earl to do? It would have been rude not to. So that when the queen asked him for progress reports, he sent her a series of long missives in which he carefully avoided answering the key question, and at the end of which, the castle remained in Irish hands. The queen became so irritated that eventually she remarked that the earl’s reports were all ‘Blarney’. So it is thanks to Elizabeth that Blarney became 22 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-JULY 2014

synonymous with eloquence, and that so many people flock there today to kiss its stone. The English did eventually succeed in taking the castle, when Cromwell’s General, Lord Broghill blasted his way through the tower walls. But when he got inside, everyone within had somehow disappeared, making their way through the three secret passageways hidden in the caves below the battlements, known as the Badgers Caves. One leads to Cork, one to the lake, and the third, according to legend, goes all the way to Kerry. At the beginning of the 18th. century Sir James St. John Jefferyes built a Georgian gothic house up against the keep of the castle, which was then the custom all over Ireland. At the same time the Jefferyes family laid out a landscape garden known as the Rock Close with a remarkable collection of massive boulders and rocks arranged around what seems to have been druid remains from prehistoric times. Certainly, many of the yew trees and evergreen oaks there are extremely ancient. In 1820 the house was accidently destroyed by fire, and the wings that remained now form a picturesque adjunct to the keep. These were subsequently rearranged in the 1980s so as to give a better view of the castle’s keep. Blarney Castle is a must for any visitor to Munster. And as you are hanging upside down, kissing its famous stone, think of Elizabeth. Like so many English before and after, she intended taking something away, but ended up enriching the local culture. Albeit unintentionally.

Admission 12 Euro, 5 Euro for children.

NOW OPEN FOR SUMMER!!

Open 7 days

www.Theskipperventry.com, Ventryskipper@hotmail.com

Tel: 085 27 87 958 / 066 91 59 853 Open 7 days a week From noon to 9h30ish SEAFOOD Specialist Meat & vegetarian options available Set menu 3 course meal (16.50â&#x201A;Ź) From noon to 18h30 A la carte available all day Teas, Coffees

Open 5pm - 10pm

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Out of the Blue - Half Page.indd 1

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24/04/2014 17:19:46

Dingle Dingle -- My My Kingdom Kingdom For For AA Dolphin Dolphin

Words: John Carey

t takes four and a half hours of driving from Dublin, but well worth every minute as the scenery is spectacular. The first thing that spreads across the horizon is the sheer gargantuan beauty that is the Magillacuddy Reeks, a mountain range that stretches into the Kerry terrain like a swan stretching out its wings upon a sleepy landscape. Every bend in the road heralds a new breathtaking scene change. We arrive in Dingle about tea time and promptly proceed to our lodgings, the popular Dingle Skelig Hotel on the edge of town and only a five minute walk to the Harbour. The view from the spacious room out on to the bay is nothing short of spectacular. After a nice relaxing jacuzzi in the leisure centre we put on our glad rags and head for the dining room. Dinner is a superb quality of fare to suit all tastes and great value. In Dingle there is a bar every ten yards you walk in any direction and these are no ordinary bars as they double up as grocery stores, so you can go do your food shopping and have a pint at the same time. After a nice leisurely stroll we happen upon Dick Macks pub, a quaint little watering hole with pictures of former Taoiseach Charles Haughey on the wall and old fiddles hanging from wood book cases. There is a guy on a tin whistle and another with an accordion belting out old Gaelic tunes while in the corner there are a group of Americans munching on pizza from one of the local takeaways and quaffing down creamy pints. The next day we head for the Slea Head Drive a ring road beginning and ending in Dingle. Taking the R559 south we arrive at Ventry harbour a beautiful horse shoe enclave with fantastic views and a long stretch of sandy beach very popular with windsurfers. Moving on from there we head west past Dunbeg Fort, with a steep cliff on one side and the roaring Atlantic on the other. We arrive at Slea Head peninsula which is marked by a stone crucifix and beautiful views of the Blasket Islands. We drive northwards passing Coumenoole Strand where part of the famous David Lean epic Ryan’s Daughter was filmed. At Dun Chaoin you can get the ferry to the Great Blasket Island but we decide to continue on to Ballyferriter. After a scrumptious lunch in the Ceann Sibeal Hotel we head east taking in a number of Neolithic sites including the early Christian site at Reasc. There are so many beauty spots on this drive and another must visit place is Ventry-a small village about 4 miles from Dingle. This quaint village has one pub and one shop. It also has a very nice restaurant called The Skipper and is well worth a look in-do try the mussels with a nice glass of white. Another great place along the drive is Ballydavid as it leads out to a cliff top drive

with dramatic views and crashing waves with beautiful seabirds hovering below. Turning south we head past the base of Mount Brandon – the second largest mountain in Ireland. This is where - if you are a keen rambler you can find a pilgrimage route to the mountain summit. We now turn onto the main road back to Dingle and a well earned drink in the town before dinner. If you are looking for seafood then you have to pay a visit to the famous”Out Of The Blue” seafood restaurant with its extensive seafood menu that is meticulously chosen by proprietor Tim Mason every morning from the local Fishing boats, making sure he gets only the freshest seafood just caught. A certain Paul Hewson aka “Bono” has been known to frequent this wonderful restaurant. The highlight of this trip for me was undoubtedly the 8th wonder of the world Conor Pass. The Conor Pass is the highest mountain pass in all of Ireland and is a must visit for anybody visiting the area. Driving up to the pass from Dingle you know you are in the lap of the Gods you might pass the odd cloud meandering around its many bends in the road. The views on the way up are simply amazing - watch out for a few dozen sheep feeding off the mossy hillsides as they sometimes tend to cross the road. When reaching the pass itself you are greeted with the most spectacular views of the corrie lakes and the glaciated landscapes. On a clear day you can see the Aran Islands off the coast of County Galway. Upon descending the other side of the pass you are greeted with a road so narrow that you can barely fit one car through and the sheer drop on the left hand side and cliff base on the other makes for a truely awesome adrenalin filled car journey you will never forget. One thing not to be missed on your visit to Dingle is the Dingle Dolphin -or Fungie, the name given to him by the fishermen. He is a fully grown, possibly middle aged, male bottlenose, Tursiops Truncatus. He weighs in at around onequarter tonne (500 lbs.) and measures in the region of four metres (13 feet). During the summer months Fungie is often seen taking fish in the harbour mouth. The Dingle Boatmen’s Association run regular trip out to meet Fungi all year round and he obliges with spectacular jumps and loops alongside the boats, a truly amazing sight. The Boatmen’s Association comprises 8 passenger boats fully licenced by the Department of the Marine and manned by experienced and qualified crews. The boats leave Dingle Pier at regular intervals during the day, every day, all year round (weather permitting) on a 1 hour trip to see Fungie wild and free in his natural habitat. Telephone: (066) 9152626 Email: info@dingledolphin.com JULY 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 25

Kenmare Antiques

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A wonderful place to pick up unique items from times past! 14 Henry Street, Kenmare, Co. Kerry 064 6642788, 086 3150923 www.kenmareantiques.com kenmare.antiques@gmail.com

The grown-up getaway a great escape .... This midweek offer includes dinner in Sika Restaurant, a luxurious overnight stay, a relaxing breakfast overlooking the Sugar Loaf Mountain and 20% off ESPA treatments. T&C’s apply.

t: +353 1 274 8888 www.powerscourthotel.com

CashmereIreland.com by Sue Designer Knits 20 Henry Street, Kenmare, Ireland Email: info@cashmereireland.com Tel: 064 6648986

Open 6.30pm -9.30pm

20 Henry Street, Kenmare, Ireland Email: info@cashmereireland.com Tel: 064 6648986 26 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-JULY 2014

Kenmare

Kenmare, the Jewel in Kerry’s Crown

ost people in Kerry will tell you that the reason that county is known throughout the rest of Ireland as “the kingdom” is because of the regal success they continually enjoy at Gaelic football. But for the tourists that flock there from all over the world every year, it is because of the royal welcome they receive on arriving there. And the jewel in Kerry’s crown is undoubtedly Kenmare. This picturesque town is the perfect location from which to discover the South West of Ireland, linking the internationally famous Ring of Kerry with the rugged Ring of Beara. And the historical, cultural and environmental significance of the town was officially acknowledged when the Irish Tourist Board made it the very first Heritage Town in the country. Kenmare town is a veritable haven of tranquility,

gourmet food, superb accommodation and breathtaking scenery in one of the most natural and unspoilt environments in Ireland. And it’s the perfect halting spot to rest and recuperate as you make your way around the justly famous Ring Of Kerry. This begins from the town of Killarney, which is the only place you should ever begin your trip around the ring from - though technically of course, you could come in the other direction via Killorglin. Once you’ve made your way into Kerry’s genuinely spectacular National Park from Killarney you’ll naturally need somewhere to sit down to take some refreshment. And there really is no better place to do so than at the Park Hotel Kenmare, in the town itself, about half an hour’s drive from Killarney. Though that of course will depend on how much time you’ve spent stopping

off on the way to take in the truly spectacular views you’ll be greeted with on your way there. There are any number of places to stop off at in Kenmare. But a bloody Mary at the Park Hotel, enjoyed the spectacular backdrop that it offers, with the equally famous hospitality that John and Francis Brennan provide there really is the only way to properly enjoy the RIng of Kerry. And if you wnat to justify that kind of indulgence, why take the walk along the old road from Killarney to Kenmare? It’s about 24 km, and will take you around five hours. But it’s a fantastic way to spend a day in Kerry. And you’ll really enjoy that drink once you arrive in Kenmare. Whether it is walking on the mountains, cruising on the bay, horse riding, golfing, fishing, touring or soaking up the best of music, all roads lead to Kenmare. JULY 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 27

Explore Munster

Cliffs of Moher

The Burren

The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again. To Begin to discover the secrets of the Burren, a walk through the Burren Centre Exhibition is essential.

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Cobh

Cobh (formerly Queenstown) is a pretty seaside town in County Cork, Ireland . It is steeped in history and is an ideal place in which to stay to explore all that the town, Cork Harbour and East Cork has to offer. Cobh was the departure point for 2.5 million of the six million Irish people who emigrated to North America between 1848 and 1950.Attractions for tourists include shore and lake fishing, sailing and water sports, bird watching and countless sites of historical interest and importance.The Sirius Arts Centre has free exhibitions throughout the year and shares the original home of the Royal Cork Yacht Club wit h the Cobh Tourist Office.

Fota Island Wildlife Park Fota Wildlife Park is a joint project between the Zoological Society of Ireland and University College Cork. It is an idea that was originally conceived in the 1970’s by the former Director of Dublin Zoo, Dr Terry Murphy, The park was originally opened in 1983. It has been listed as one of Ireland’s top ten visitor attractions. Fota is a not for profit organisation, limited by guarantee, and is also a registered charity.

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Ring of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry ( Irish: Mórchuaird Chiarraí)is not a ring in the conventional sense but a 179-km-long circular tourist route in County Kerry. Clockwise from Killarney it follows the N71 to Kenmare, then the N70 around the Iveragh Peninsula to Killorglin – passing through Sneem, Waterville, Cahersiveen, and Glenbeigh – before returning to Killarney via the N72. The scenery along this route is spectacular to behold and the route takes you through the Gap of Dunloe, the Bog Village, past Rossbeigh Beach, Torc Waterfall, Muckross House, The Blue Pool, Ross Castle, the Ogham Stones, and many more visitor attractions.

Bunratty Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past. You can explore at your own leisure or join in a guided tour with our experienced guides. At night time the castle is the impressive setting for the medieval castle banquets which are held all year round.

Fisherman Out of Ireland, Ballymoon, Kilcar, County Donegal, Ireland Tel.: +353 74 973 8233, Fax: +353 74 973 8236 E-mail: info@fishermanoutofireland.com, Web: www.fishermanoutofireland.com

The Valentia Island King Scallop Festival

alentia Island is situated at the far west of the Iveragh peninsula on the coast of Kerry. That’s the one immediately below the Dingle peninsula, and as such it’s far less likely to be overrun with tourists than its more glamorous neighbour. There’s an inevitable tendency towards hyperbole when writing about travel, but this is I confess my favourite corner of the universe. The area west of Waterville, with its statue of Charlie Chaplin which greets you as you arrive there, centred around the village of Ballinskelligs is as impressive a backdrop as you could hope to set eyes on. As the grass and stone of the hills roll down to the water, the rivers which flow out to the open sea are constantly clung to by fingers of land. When the waters do eventually reach the ocean proper they are met by a series of islands that break up their natural flow. So the view from the fields looking down to the water is one of a series of never ending layers of land and water in ever changing proportions. Until eventually, the last land mass can be seen poking up from Atlantic waves, the twin peaks of the Skelligs that jut up from below. This is as far west in Europe as it’s possible to go. It’s the edge of the Old World. Next stop New York. It was here that the monks came in the 7th and 8th centuries, when they went in search of the most barren and least hospitable corner of the Earth in order to do penance for the Dark Age

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that God had sentenced the West to. They clung desperately to the only certainty they had left; their faith. And they devoted their lives to copying out the New Testament in their brilliantly ornate if peculiar Latin, producing the kinds of books that would eventually result in the Book Of Kells. It’s impossible not to feel this sense of history and to be aware of the layers of culture it leaves behind as you roam this corner of Kerry. And it’s as evident on Valentia Island as it is on the mainland. Valentia is a surprisingly large island, easily the largest off the Kerry coast. You can get there by driving across the short bridge that leads to the town of Portmagee, or on the ferry that goes back and forth to the island’s other town, Knightstown. Valentia has the earliest evidence of human activity anywhere in Ireland, dating all the way back to 6000 BC. And there are all sorts of remains that provide evidence of the many different kinds of footprints that have been left there over the eight thousand years that have followed; Megalithic, Celtic, Monastic, Cromwellian, and Napoleonic. More recently the Island has played a crucial role in the development of international telegraph communications. It was here that the first commercially viable telegraph cable was laid in the 1850s and 60s. And it’s also been a crucial location for pioneering studies into meteorology, and to safety at sea. Whilst the combination of a mild, moist climate with contrasting terrains has produced an abundant variety and quantity of plant, animal, and

bird life. Just in case you needed any more reasons to make the trip from mainland county Kerry onto the island, the second weekend in July this year sees the 5th holding of the Valentia Island King Scallop Festival. Families and friends alike will congregate once more on the waterfront in Knightstown to feast on the region’s famous fresh Valentia Island King Scallops. Parents can listen to live music from the festival stage, while their kids enjoy the different activities that the organizers have lined up for them, which include scallop shell painting, and those all important bouncy castles. Sunday will kick off with the annual Children’s Duathlon, which begins with a swim, followed by a run. Whcih is always great fun, both to take part in and to watch. After which, there’s live music on the festival stage, and crafts and stalls on the waterfront where local foodies and artisans sell their ware. There will also be demonstrations from the Valentia Island RNLI Lifeboat, together with the Coast Guard Helicopter, which will be putting on a rescue demonstration in Valentia Harbour. But the main event of the weekend is the judging of the ‘Scallop Cook-Off ’. This is an opportunity for the more culinarily confident of the local men to take to the frying pan and cook it out to see who will be crowned Mr. King Scallop 2014. It all takes place on the festival stage on Sunday evening, with the official crowning taking place on Sunday night.

The Valentia Island King Scallop Festival

Scallop Festival Schedule 2014 New for 2014 - Scallop is being served on the waterfront in Knightstown both Saturday & Sunday afternoon.

Saturday 12th July

10am - Open Boat Angling Competition. Knightstown Pier. Suitable for all the family 11am - Cricket. Cracow Park. Open to all

2pm - Opening Parade lead by Mr. King Scallop 2013. Interview with Mr. King Scallop. Showcase of local musical talent with island/area children take to the stage. Local chefs start cooking the king scallops on the waterfront. Be part of the OPENING PARADE . All children are invited to partake in this year’s opening parade. NAUTICAL FANCY DRESS REQUIRED! Meeting Point: Peter Street, Knightstown, Valentia Island at 1.45pm, Saturday 12th July 2014. Parade Route - Peter Street to Town Clock. More information please email: valentiakingscallop@gmail.com.

3pm - Traditional musician Mike O’Brien AKA Fast Fingers takes to the festival stage 5.30pm - Festival Stage - Cook off competition to decide who will be crowned Mr. King Scallop 2014

Sunday 13th July

11am - Cricket. Cracow Park. Open to all 12.30 - Registration Children’s Aquathlon (Swim & Run) Age groups 8 - 16 2pm - Start Children’s Aquathlon Followed immediately by prizing giving 3pm - Jazz band & festival favourites Fusion Wave take to the stage & our wonderful chef start cooking again! (till the Scallop run out!) 3.30pm - Blessing of the boats & RNLI/ Coastguard Helicopter rescue demonstration Valentia Harbour 10pm - The Crowning of Mr. King Scallop 2014 & dancing with Jigabite in the Royal Knightstown Restaurants Participating (5 chefs cooking Sat / 4 cooking Sun) • Royal, Knightstown • Coffee Dock, Knightstown • Skellig Rock Steakhouse, Cahersiveen • Paul Duff (formally of the Lighthouse Café, Valentia Island) • John Casey, internationally renowned chef & the Valentia Island King Scallop Cook-off Judge! • POD Crepere, Knightstown • Knightstown Coffee Shop, Knightstown

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速

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hether your on a day trip or staying for longer in Munster, Travel Ireland recommends the following eateries and restaurants for their excellent cuisine , value for money and friendly efficient service.

Chez Hans Moor

Lane, Cashel, Co. Tipperary. Seafood at its best with that little extra that only Hans can bring to your palate...Tel: 062 61177

An Canteen

Small quaint front room restaurant with locally sourced high quality ingredients making this little gem a must visit when in Dingle. Dykgate st Dingle Tel 0866603778.

The Mustard Seed

Ballingarry, Co Limerick 069 68508 About 40 minutes outside of Limerick City, off the Adare road, this is one of those roomy country houses that’s been transformed into a top class hotel and restaurant. One of the finest restaurants in Munster.

Fishy Fishy Café

Crowley’s Quay, Kinsale, Co Cork. 01 470 0415 Kinsale is, unquestionably, the food capital of Ireland, and this by common consent is one of its finest restaurants. Impeccably fresh fish at reasonable prices.

Dromoland Castle

Newmarket-on-Fergus, Co Clare 061 368 144 Quite simply one of the most imposing and impressive castles on these islands, it boasts rooms and a restaurant to match its imperious surroundings.

The Ventry Skipper

Ventry, Co Kerry Tel 066 9159853 This little gem is just what the weary traveller needs after a day of sight seeing-with amazing views accompanied by great seafood and an extensive wine list you really cant go wrong.

Recommended Restaurants in Munster

Isaacs Restaurant

McCurtain St, Cork city. 021 450 3805 Hidden away in a budget style hotel, Isaacs has always had a reputation with locals for being a considerably better quality restaurant than you might have expected. And as you’d expect, its very reasonably priced too.

The Lime Tree Shelbourne St, Kenmare, Co Kerry 064 664 1225 With possibly exception of Kinsale, Kenmare is Ireland’s unofficial culinary capital. And this is one of the town’s very best restaurants, specializing in wonderfully fresh fish and succulent lamb.

Ballymaloe House

Shanagarry, Co Cork 021 4652 531 Myrtle Allen bought Ballymaloe in 1948 and she and her extended families have been entertaining and educating the rest of the country ever since. Not cheap by any stretch of the imagination, but whether dining in the restaurant or staying on the grounds, this is about as luxurious as it gets.

Out of the Blue Dingle Harbour, (066) 915 0811. The most popular seafood restaurant in Dingle even Bono is a fan.

La Cucina 5 University Court, Castleroy, County Limerick. Simply one of the best places for a pizza in the country.T el 061 333980.

Milesian

Mail St, Castlegregory, Co Kerry tel 087 979 4337 Greg O’Mahonny took over as head chef here in 2010 after spells at some of the best restaurants in Spain and Dublin, including the Mugaritz in San Sebastian and L’Ecrivain in Dublin. And he takes the very best of local Kerry produce and gives them some wonderfully sophisticated flavours. JULY 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 33

Dubarry Factory Shop Junction 14 off the M6 Motorway, Ballinasloe, County Galway

The Dubarry Collection

Dubarry Flagship Store 35 College Green, Dublin 2

Welcome To Connaught

he province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them but English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught, and most densely populated area, is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Connaught has some of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the film ‘The Quiet Man ‘ was enacted and the natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park in Roscommon and a tour of this region is a must for all. For those interested in a religious experience Mayo is famed for

Knock Shrine where on the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist are reputed to have appeared. The apparition was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged from six years to seventy-five and included men, women and children. The shrine has become so popular in modern times that the Ireland West International Airport was built especially in 1985 to cater for hundreds of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to Connaught. The county also features the pilgrimage site known as Croagh Patrick. Croagh Patrick, which overlooks Clew Bay in County Mayo, is considered the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to the present day without interruption. Croagh Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to have fasted for forty days in 441 AD and the custom of trekking up the mountain has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside with magnificent views of Clew Bay beneath. So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic coastline cruising on the Shannon Waterway, religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught has it all.

Benbulben

Inishboffin Cliff Ruin

Kylemore Abbey

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Galway International Arts Festival - 14-27 July

Irish artist John Kindness will exhibit his ‘Odysseus’ collection at Galway International Arts Festival’s Absolut Festival Gallery, Market Street, from the 14-27 July, 11am-6pm and late opening to 8pm Thursday-Saturday.

alway is a vibrant, thriving city full of energy and zeal where magic happens, not only on the many stages and galleries that are found there, but on pretty much each and every one of its medieval streets. The annual International Arts Festival that is held there every July is a creative collision of performance, music, visual art and discussion. And this is its 36th. year. It’s one of Ireland’s most vibrant and exciting Festivals, offering a wide range of experiences from world-class theatre to impromptu musical performances and much else besides. From the all-out party atmosphere at the Festival Big Top to the quiet contemplation in the Festival galleries, the Festival transforms the city through the arts. For two glorious weeks, worlds, cultures and dreams collide inspiring passion, creativity and new ways of thinking.

Galway International Arts Festival and Northlight Theatre present the European Premiere of Chapatti, written by Christian O’Reilly and starring John Mahoney and Penny Slusher. Chapatti runs at the Town Hall Theatre from the 15-27 July. 36 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-JULY 2014

The centrepiece of this year’s Festival is Enda Walsh’s new play, Ballyturk. Starring regular collaborator and international heartthrob Cillian Murphy, who’s joined on stage by Mikel Murfi and Stephen Rae, all performances are, alas, already sold out. But it will be touring nationally subsequently, so keep an eye out for it if you do want to catch it. Acclaimed writer Joseph O’Connor’s novel Star of the Sea is brought to the stage in an ambitious combination of words and music in Irish and English. But don’t worry if you are not a native Irish speaker, or indeed if you don’t have a word of Irish. Moonfish Theatre, the company that is presenting this intriguing world premier assure us that there is absolutely no need to have any Irish whatsoever in order to enjoy this unique theatrical experience.

Galway International Arts Festival - 14-27 July

Galway International Arts Festival and Róisín Dubh present The National. An American indie rock band to play at this year’s Festival Big Top, Wednesday 16 July, 7:30pm with support act Phosphorescent.

American artist Kurt Perschke will exhibit his sculptural installation ‘RedBall Galway’ at various city centre locations from the 17-23 July, 10am-7pm. Check www. giaf.ie and the Festival’s Social Media for updates and locations.

If you are looking for a little light relief, there are a number of comedy acts to to tickle your fancy. National treasure Panti, who was thrust so unceremoniously into the limelight courtesy of our national broadcaster presents his/her latest collaboration with THISISPOPBABY, with his/her first ever stand-up, High Heels In Low Places. Whilst fans of BBC comedy, both for radio and television with get the chance to one of its stalwarts Milton Jones on the 25th. As ever, there are any number of bands and musicians performing on stages and street corners throughout the course of the Festival. The Waterboys and Galway began their unofficial love affair a quarter of a century ago, and they have been performing here ever since. They are on on the 20th. Cathy Davey’s 2010 album The Nameless was one of the best Irish albums of the last few years, filtering traditional singer songwriter ballads through the world of Brecht and Weill. You can see her on the 27th. Plus Imelda May of the 18th and indie kings The National on the 16th. But probably what the Galway International Arts Festival is best known for are its street performances, and this year will be no different. On its second and third day, Wednesday 15th and Thursday 16th, the Festival kicks off with the Dance of The Lobsters. Then on the 16th and 17th Les Phiébulistes, one of France’s most exciting new circus companies present the Irish premier of Hallali, a grand-scale spectacular performed on a gigantic architectural structure. The French are back on the 19th and 20th with Dragonus, in which spectacular, acrobatic stilt-walkers perform to an electric rockopera score with live musicians, pyrotechnics and a monumental moving dragon! And if the dragon doesn’t get you, then The Invasion will, over the 25th and 26th, as the aliens from outer space that are due, apparently, to land then will be making their way ominously through the Galway streets. All the street performances are, as always, free. And the Festival takes place between the 14th and 27th of July. JULY 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 37

veryone likes good food at the right price and Travel Ireland recommends the following eateries in Connaught where you will experience culinary delicacies, great service and a wonderful atmosphere.

Kai Café

Sea Rd. Galway city. 091 526 003 David and Jessica Murphy restaurant in the heart of Galway has justly won a mountain of awards over the last couple of years, including Restaurant of the Year in 2012. Of the many, many who sing its praises, John McKenna wrote, “It’s vital food, packed with good energy, and it lifts you up to eat it because it’s so simple and elemental.”

Ard Bia

Long Walk, Spanish Arch, Galway City. This restaurant has gone from strength to strength since winning Food & Wine magazine’s Best Regional Restaurant Award a few years ago. The eclectic arty dining room overlooking the Corrib in the historic Spanish Arch area is renowned for its delicious food. The building also has a local gallery upstairs with some fabulous artwork to browse and chat about over coffee. Tel: +353(0)91 56111

Eala Bhán

Rockwood Parade, Sligo town 071 914 5823 If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell.

The Yew Tree Restaurant

Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon 090 666 1255 Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food.

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Recommended Restaurants in Connaught

An Port Mór Restaurant

1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo 098 26730 Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West.

Waterfront House Restaurant

Enniscrone, County Sligo. The Waterfront House Restaurant has not only excellent cuisine coupled with an extensive selection of wines but probably one of the most outstanding sea views in Ireland. Here you can wine, dine and relax as you peer out over a 5km beach, Killala Bay, with waves of the Atlantic Ocean breaking just yards away. “Quality, Sincerity, Friendliness and Relaxation” is the motto of this fine establishment which specializes in a Full A La Carte dining experience from 5pm daily. Opened in 2011 as an addition to Waterfront House, The Seaview Restaurant and Wine Bar have become popular with locals and visitors alike. Fresh Seafood is their specialty. Tel: 096 37120 for bookings.

The Cottage Restaurant

Jamestown, Co. Leitrim 071 962 5933 Head chef Sham Hanifa’s sauces are so well regarded, you buy jars of them to take away with after your meal. Originally from Malaysia, he’s been here in Leitrim for over 14 years and applies his culinary skills to the local Irish produce that are native to the West.

Ashford Castle

Cong, Co. Mayo 094 954 6003 Dating all the way back to 1228, this one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906.

Explore Connaught

Glencar Waterfall

Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. As you reach Glencar which straddles the border between counties Sligo and Leitrim with its dramatic steep cliffs, you will notice a series of waterfalls cascading from the heights. Glencar waterfall is perhaps the most dramatic descending from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.

Kylemore Abbey

Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic walled garden. The castle was bought by the Benedictine nuns in 1920.. The Victorian walled garden was re-opened in 1999 and won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses, the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food. This is a gem and should definitely be at the top of any visitors list.

Mullaghmore

Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline and recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Indeed, On 8 March 2012, surfers and windsurfers from all over the world rode waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable. Mullaghmore is overlooked by the majestic Ben Bulbin mountain.

Connemara

Inishbofin Island

Connemara is one of God’s gifts to this world with unspoilt natural beauty , rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel

Inish Bofin (island of the white cow) is situated seven miles off the Galway coastline and is an extremely popular tourist attraction.The island is 5.7km by 4km. Inishbofin has three official looped walks of varying difficulties, each offering spectacular views of the island’s wild Atlantic scenery. The island also has several safe award winning sandy beaches and its clear waters make swimming, snorkelling and diving a joy. Two of the beaches on Inishbofin have been awarded the ‘Green Coast Award’ prized for their exceptional water quality and their natural, unspoilt environment.

from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the north through lake-rich Roundstone Bog to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wonderous landscape is bounded on the

west, south and north by the Atlantic Ocean. Connemara’s land boundary with the rest of County Galway is marked by the Invermore River which flows into the north of Kilkieran Bay.

7 Days

Galway Races

of Horse Racing in

Galway

he last Monday in July sees the beginning of the seven day race meeting at the Ballybrit Racecourse in Galway. They have been hosting this meeting here now for 145 years. The busiest days of the week are traditionally the Wednesday, with the Galway Plate. And the Thursday, with the Galway Hurdle. Just as importantly, for at least some of the race goes, Thursday is also Ladies’ Day. The Plate is a steeple chase race run over two and three quarter miles, and these days it has a winning fund of some 200,000 Euro. The Galway Hurdle is worth even more. With winning fund of over 260, 000 Euro, and sponsored by Guinness, it’s the most valuable national hunt race in Ireland. But it’s not just the horses who can walk away with a valuable prize from the Ballybrit racecourse. There is a Best Dressed Person Award this year as well as a Best Hat award. Generously sponsored once again by Anthony Ryan of Shop Street, Galway, the Best Dressed Lady winner last year won prizes worth no less than 12,000 Euro! The lucky winner Rachelle Guiry walked away with a one carat diamond solitaire pendant valued at €8,500, a shopping spree worth €1500 in the sponsor’s shop in Galway, and €1000 cash. As well as a Lancôme Presentation Gift Hamper worth over €600, and a 40 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-JULY 2014

corporate hospitality package for Galway Races for the October Bank Holiday Racing Festival. On top of which, there was a prize of €1,500 for the Best Hat. But be warned, there is no way of officially entering the competition. The judges quietly mingle with the crowd, selecting those that they consider the best dressed to make up the finalists from whom the winners are picked. So get there early, and be sure to look your best! Then on the Sunday of the meeting, there’s the Family Day, including the popular Mad Hatters Competition. Fun and Colour is the theme for the afternoon on this spectacular day, and children are admitted free of charge. There is loads of entertainment for the young racegoers to enjoy, from bouncy castles, slides, and face painting as well as the chance of bumping into a host of crazy characters throughout the enclosure. The Mad Hatters competition is a hugely popular event, for parents and children alike, and the effort and creativity of the entrants is spectacular. Ireland West Airport together with their partners Ryanair generously sponsor the Mad Hatters Competition, providing prizes for both adults and children. All in all there are few better places to soak up the craic of a summer’s eve than at the Galway Races at the end of July.

GALWAY

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Louis Copeland and Sons 30 Lower Pembroke Street Dublin 2 Tel: 353 1 661 0110

Louis Copeland and Sons Merchants Road Galway Tel: 353 91 532 987

isherman Out of Ireland is based in the village of Kilcar, in county Donegal in the far North West of Ireland. And if ever there were a part of the world where quality knitwear would be appreciated, it is this particular corner of Ireland. Indeed, there is a long tradition here in south west Donegal of producing the kind of clothing that can stand up to the howling gales and driving rain that comes in to smother the land from the wilds of the Atlantic ocean. Fisherman Out of Ireland wanted to take that proud tradition and propel it into the modern world. Their range of knitwear was established here back in 1991, and from the very beginning they were determined to produce garments that were as stylish as they were durable. Without however losing sight of the central importance of producing garments of only the very highest quality. They use only 100% natural fibres, such as merino wool and cashmere to create their authentic knitwear. And the yarns they use provide a wonderfully soft feel, as well as providing wearers with their much needed insulating properties.They tend to favour the earthy, natural look which is entirely appropriate, and in keeping with their understandable concern for the environment, and for doing their best to preserve it just as it is. Happily, much of the yarn they use is spun by Donegal Yarns, a mill based in the same village as they are. Because of which, they are able to keep their carbon footprint down to a bare minimum. The village of Kilcar where they are located might be one of the more isolated, and therefore beautiful corners of the island, but they ship their ware from there to all four corners of the globe. Their extensive range of knitwear for gents and ladies is sold not only in Ireland, but in Europe, the United States and Asia. Indeed, the company has been so successful at taking a quintessentially local product and turning it into a global one, that they have won the coveted â&#x20AC;&#x153;Exporter of the yearâ&#x20AC;&#x153; from the Crafts Council of Ireland for two successive years, in both 2012 and 2013. With that quiet Donegal smile, they are, they like to say, the Kerrygold of the North. Each season since its launch the Fisherman range has grown and evolved, and today their range features something for everyone: hats, scarves, gloves, wraps and capelets made from luxurious quality yarns. From chunky wool and cashmere sweaters in ribs and stitches, inspired by the traditional Aran patterns, to merino wools, Lambwools and felted wools. And it all manages to look wonderfully traditional, unmistakably Irish and yet impressively stylish and contemporary.

Welcome to Ulster

he Ancient Irish province of Ulster (9 counties) was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone.the other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. In this edition we look at Fermanagh, Antrim and Belfast City in Northern Ireland and Donegal in the Republic of Ireland and what they have to offer. County Fermanagh: With over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise.

County Donegal (Irish: Contae Dhún na nGall) is a county in the northwest of the Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or ‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland. County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on

the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway.However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. All three counties are geared towards the visitor which is the trademark of our nation as a hospitable people and which is guaranteed in Ulster. Belfast City too has many features to behold including the grandeur of the City Hall, the new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Ulster........Antrim, Fermanagh, Donegal and Belfast City

Bonamargy

Fanad Head

Forest in Cavan

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Explore Ulster

Titanic Belfast

Since it opened in MArch 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland and over a million visitors went through its doors in its first year open. Housed in an iconic, six story building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the very site where the famous ship was first built. Once you enter the building proper, you’re

introduced to the building’s giant atrium surrounded by the four “ships”, hull shaped wings which act as the beginning of the Titanic experience. Your journey will then take you through the building’s nine galleries in this state-of-the-art visitor experience, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end. The story is brought up to the present with the discovery of the wreck, and into the future with live links to contemporary undersea exploration. And the galleries employ a variety of interactive media including CGI, film, audio, artefacts and fullscale replicas. Not only that, there’s an actual ride through the Titanic giving you a view of how the ship was physically put together.

The Giant’s Causeway

The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast north of the town of Bushmills. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he get get across to Scotland to the East to take on a giant who lived over there. Voted by BBC Radio listeners as the fourth greatest natural wonder in UK, visitors flock here from all over the world to marvel at of one of Europe’s most magnificent coastlines and its unique rock formations, which have stood as a natural rampart against the unbridled ferocity of Atlantic stormsf or millions of

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years. The rugged symmetry of the columns never fails to intrigue and inspire people who come here. To stroll along the Giants Causeway is to voyage back in time. In 1986 they opened the Giants Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its coveted list of sites, which are of exceptional interest and universal value. And the National Trust which oversees the Causeway provides the half million tourists who go there every year with any and all the information that they might need.

The Old Bushmills Distillery

In 1608 King James I of England granted Sir Thomas Phillipps a license to distil whiskey, and Bushmills became the first ever distillery in the world to begin officially producing whiskey. “Whiskey” with an E is Irish by the way, and without is Scottish. And the word itself originated from the Irish word for water, “uisce”. Bushmills itself is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. In 2008 Bushmills celebrated the 400th anniversary of their original licence to distil whiskey. They marked the occasion with the release of a limited edition Irish whiskey of exceptional smoothness, Bushmills 1608. Today Bushmills Irish Whiskey is owned by Diageo, and over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens.

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The Earagail Arts Festival - Letterkenny

ver the last 25 years the Earagail Arts Festival has brought a host of internationally recognised artists and companies from the world of music, theatre, visual arts, literature and outdoor spectacle. And this year’s festival takes place in a series of unique venues throughout Donegal over two weeks between July 12-26th. This bilingual (Irish and English) arts festival is a venue based music and arts festival that covers just about every conceivable corner of the arts. From movie screenings in forests and castles to innovative theatre, street arts and circus performances in gardens, parks and at state of the art venues, this unique programme reaches out across the whole county. Patrick Scott: Image Space Light One of this year’s highlights will be the celebration of the work of the internationally recognised Irish artist Patrick Scott. Patrick sadly died in February at the age of 93 on the eve of the opening of this major retrospective at IMMA in Dublin. The RCC and the Glebe Gallery will present a selection of the work shown at Visual Carlow and IMMA respectively, across the two venues as a single exhibition. An Gailearaí Gaoth Dobhair will present a further exhibition of Scott’s work from the Taylor Gallery Dublin. ‘Patrick Scott: Image Space Light’ is the most comprehensive representation of this remarkable artist’s 75 year-long career ever shown. Between them these exhibitions bring together more than 100 pieces that illustrated the breadth and longevity of Scott’s career as an architect, designer and artist. The Glebe will display Scott’s early works from the 1940s to the early 70s, while the exhibition at the RCC concentrates on works from the 1960s to the present. The focus at the RCC is on Scott’s mature

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style epitomised by his iconic gold leaf paintings. It will also feature a number of tapestries mainly from the late 70s and a series of ash tables from the early 90s. World Music Star Bombino. As ever, there is a wide choice of musical acts strutting their stuff from across the globe. Tuareg guitarist and singer Omara “Bombino” Moctar is a star guitarist and singer from the Sahara desert on a meteoric rise. Born and raised in Niger, in the northern city of Agadez, Bombino is a member of the Tuareg Ifoghas tribe, a nomadic people descended from the Berbers of North Africa; who for centuries have fought against colonialism and the imposition of strict Islamic rule. His new album, Nomad, was recorded with 2013 Grammy-winning Producer of the Year Dan Auerbach of The Black Keys. The album debuted at No.1 on the Billboard World Music Charts and iTunes World charts, and has collected rave reviews from around the world, including from the BBC’s World Service which called it ‘utterly, utterly fantastic”. And from Rolling Stone, which called Nomad “the most exciting blues album of the year”. And if you are serious about your music, you’ll not want to miss the opportunity to catch legendary DJ, artist and producer Donal Dineen who’s performing with two of Ireland’s finest emerging artists, Ambience Affair and SlowPlaceLikeHome. A musical pioneer since his early days as the presenter of RTE’s No Disco in the nineties, through to his long running late night radio show The Small Hours on Today FM, Dineen is currently back at RTE with his new series Radio Activity on 2FM. Dineen is quite simply to the Irish music scene what John Peel was to the UK’s in days of yore.

For more info go to www.eaf.ie

Medieval Fair - Dunluce Castle, Co. Antrim

hen you travel throughout Ulster you will eventually find yourself making your way to its dramatic coastline. And there are few more spectacular spots to end up in than on the White Rocks strand. This pristine expanse of blanched beach stretches from the town or Portrush to the famous not to say spectacular Dunluce Castle, that sits perched so precariously on the very edge of the cliffs, gazing down below at the Atlantic waves that pummell the rocks below. This historic castle, located impossibly close to a headland that plunges straight into the sea along the North Antrim coast, was the headquarters of the MacDonnell Clan. And there is archaeological evidence of a village that surrounded the castle, which was destroyed by fire in 1641. The site was also witness to the sinking of a colony ship that broke up on the rocks off Islay in 1857, with the loss of 240 lives. While there is evidence that parts of the castle date all the way back to the 14th century, the first official record of its existence comes from 1513 when it belonged to the MacQuillans. Most of the buildings on the rock though date to the 16th and 17th centuries. It was then that the mainland courtyard was built, which contains most of the domestic buildings. These lead down to a narrow crossing over the rock, which was formerly

protected by a drawbridge to the gatehouse. Constantly fought over, the castle eventually succumbed to the power of nature, when part of it fell into the sea one stormy night in 1639. It was abandoned shortly afterwards. What better way to mark you visit to the Antrim coast than an afternoon spent in the spectacular

castle grounds at the Medieval Fair that they hold there on Saturday July 19th. You can spend the day there mixing with minstrels, storytellers, craftsmen, soldiers and scoundrels! And thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be plenty of stalls and entertainers on hand to keep all the family entertained throughout the day.

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The Ancient City of Derry

erry, or Londonderry? And in any case, what’s in a name? Well, as a matter of fact, quite a lot, especially when you are talking about a city in one of the more tempestuous corner’s of the island. For Catholics and Nationalists, it’s always been Derry. After all, a with so many other place names in Ireland, it’s just an anglicisation of the Irish word for oak grove or wood, “daire”. For Protestants and Loyalists though, it will always be Londonderry after the city was granted a royal charter by James I of England in 1613. It was James of course who dreamt of unifying Scotland and England under one King of Great Britain, thereby sowing seeds for what would one day become the United Kingdom. So it’s hardly surprising that the people in the North would be divided about whether to call it Derry, after the old Irish word, or Londonderry, as decreed by the man who began the process for what would become Britain’s official attempt to legally incorporate Ireland as one of its dominions. Nevertheless, almost everybody who actually lives there, Catholics and Protestants alike call it Derry for short. And so shall we. Derry is pretty much the only completely walled city left anywhere in Ireland, and one of the best examples of a walled city anywhere in Europe. The walls were built between about 1613-1618, and make their way around the city centre for about one and half kilometres. They form a wonderful walkway around the inner city which provides a unique promenade from which to view the layout of the original town, which still preserves its Renaissance style street plan to this very day. The four original gates to the city are the Bishop’s Gate, the Ferryquay Gate, the Butcher Gate and the Shipquay Gate. And to these original four gates, three further were later added; the Magazine Gate, the Castle Gate and the New Gate. These gates were guarded by what the authorities claim is the largest collection of cannons in all of Europe. Twenty-four of the original cannon survive to this day and were meticulously restored in 2005, and are displayed throughout the CIty Walls. Recently, the city has enjoyed something of a cultural regeneration. In 2013 it became the first city to designated the UK’s official city of culture. As part of which the Tate Gallery’s prestigious Turner Award was held there in the autumn of 2013, when it was won by Laure Prouvost. But Derry has always been a culturally vibrant spot. The Nobel Prize winning poet Seamus Heaney hails from here, as does the brilliant dramatist Brian Friel. And it was from here that the Undertones emerged. Their breakthrough single, Teenage Kicks was so arresting that the BBC’s rock music guru John Peel played it twice, in a row! So whether it’s ancient history, or contemporary culture that tickles your fancy, the city of Derry is a must see on any tour of the North.

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International Bog Day at Peatlands Park

eatlands Park is about a 50 minute drive out of Belfast on the Dungannon road, on the other side of Lough Neagh. The peat has been forming there in that particular corner of county Armagh for over 10,000 years, and it was the first park in the British Isles established specifically to promote and facilitate awareness of peat. There are over 10 miles of paths and wooden walkways on which visitors can explore the 680 acres that have been set aside there. And there is plenty to do there too for the slightly less energetic, including a mini railway, and an outdoor turbary site where visitors can get the feel (and smell!) of cutting turf. And they’ll find a rich variety of wildlife from squirrels, badgers and hares to butterflies, moths, and dragonflies throughout the dry and wetlands.

Every July the Park hosts the Northern Ireland Bog Snorkelling Championships, which this year takes place on Sunday July 27th. And it’s likely to attract visitors, both competitors and spectators alike, from all over the country. The Northern Ireland Environment Agency (NIEA) is once again hosting the event, which is organized to help raise awareness of the importance of our bogs. Competitors have to swim two lengths of a 60-yard bog drain with the aid of a snorkel, mask and flippers, and they’ve to do so without using any conventional swimming strokes. Anyone over the age of 12 can have a go, it’s great fun, and it’s free to enter! But there is a serious side to all this dirty fun. The lowland raised bogs are home to many important species of birds, insects and a wealth of unusual plants. Unfortunately though, exploitation of the natural world to facilitate the

development of roads and general infrastructure has dramatically reduced the area once covered by peatlands to a level where, in Northern Ireland, only 9% of lowland raised bogs and 14% of upland blanket bogs are left. This annual event has been designed to celebrate the beauty of bogs and to help make people more aware of peatlands and the threats that they face. If however you don’t fancy spending your day up to your eyes in mud swimming in a bog drain, there’s plenty there to keep the whole family entertained with live music, face painting, arts and crafts, guided walks across the bog, traditional turf cutting demonstrations, and peat-free gardening advice. As well as walkabout characters, and delicious food and drinks. If you need any more information, you can call into the Visitors Centre when you arrive. JULY 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 49

Sakura

82 Botanic Av, Belfast 0044 28 9043 9590 In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant.

1 Oxford St, Belfast. 0044 28 9031 4121 Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 213, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.

Coco

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast 0044 28 9031 1150 Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

55 Degrees North

1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim. 0044 28 7082 2811 This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers.

The Ginger Bistro

7-8 Hope St, Belfast. 0044 28 9024 4421 The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger.

Lusty Beg

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh. 0044 28 6863 3300 This island spa is set on a 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

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Recommended Restaurants in Ulster

Telfords Restaurant

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast 0044 28 9043 4000 Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates in three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

Deane’s Restaurant

36-40 Howard St, Belfast. 0044 28 9033 1134 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has, he says, liberated him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics.

Sun Kee Restaurant

42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast 0044 28 9031 2016 One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years.

Shu

253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast 0044 28 9038 1655 They serve deliberately simple, French-influenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table.

Lough Erne Resort

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh. 0044 28 6632 3230 This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence Take the time to enjoy our magical CASTLE GARDENS

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday - Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie