Travelireland Volume 2 Issue 11 March 2015
Subtle Tones at ESB Feis Ceoil
A Fine blend of old and new at The Jameson Dublin International Film Festival
Ennis Book Club Festival
magazine
St Patrick’s Festival sure you’d be mad not to!
Bushmills Visitor Centre a guided tour
STEP INSIDE THE HOME OF
JAMESON BOOK YOUR TOUR AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM
www.travelirelandmagazine.com Twitter: @traveliremag Facebook: Travel Ireland Magazine
Welcome to our March issue, Whether this is your first time visiting these our shores, or whether you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. Whether it is myths and medieval castles, or craic and culture in the confines of a cozy pub and to the tune of a stray tin whistle, you are going to need a friendly hand to gently point you in the right direction. So from all of us here at Travel Ireland, a hefty and heart-felt Céad míle fáilte! And enjoy your stay!
Publisher/Managing Director John Carey Director Paul Daly Design and Art Direction Tim Evans Credit Control Manager Nichola Thomas nichola@ellenmediacom.ie Advertising John Carey john@ellenmediacom.ie 087 9113732 Bill Daly bill@travelirelandmagazine.ie 087 1533262 Sabrina Morris sabrina@travelirelandmagazine.ie Tel. 087 2020234 Contributors: Adam Patterson Photograhy, Arran Henderson, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’Neill, Stephen Walker. We wish to record our thanks to Paula Sneyd, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht. And to the Northern Ireland Tourist Board, and The National TrustGiants Causeway (NI), for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. And to Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images.
Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishe’rs prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.
contents... 04 - WELCOME TO LEINSTER 06 - EXPLORE LEINSTER 08 - Jameson Film Festival 10 - THEATRE 12 - Jameson Distillery 14 - Newgrange 16 - LEINSTER RESTAURANTS 18 - LEINSTER PUBS 21 - Glasnevin Cemetery 22 - ESB Feis Ceoil 24 - St. Patrick’s Day Festival 26 - WELCOME TO MUNSTER 28 - MUNSTER PUBS 29 - MUNSTER RESTAURANTS 30 - EXPLORE MUNSTER 32 - Dingle Film Festival 34 - WELCOME TO CONNAUGHT 35 - Ennis Book Club Festival 37 - CONNAUGHT RESTAURANTS 38 - CONNAUGHT PUBS 40 - EXPLORE CONNAUGHT 42 - WELCOME TO ULSTER 43 - EXPLORE ULSTER 44 - Donegal 46 - ULSTER PUBS 47 - ULSTER RESTAURANTS 48 - Fermanagh 50 - Bushmills Distillery
Leinster - The east coast province
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Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital
Dublin city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city. If you want to escape to the country without actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country.
Hill of Tara
County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of 4 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone. Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ All-Ireland Drama Festival, Kilkenny Castle the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June. Laois is where you can try your hand at a range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls
stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum . Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor.
Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!
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Explore Leinster
The National Stud The Chester Beatty Library The Irish National Stud has been producing winners on the racecourse since they sent out Minoru to win the Epsom Derby in 1909. But it is far more than just a centre of equine excellence. It is also home to some of Ireland’s finest natural treasures, in particular the breathtakingly beautiful Japanese Gardens, the finest of their kind in Europe. The gardens trace the passage of a soul from birth to death and beyond, at the same time providing a meeting place for the cultures of East and West. You can also savour the serene and spiritual experience provided by one of the Stud’s more recent additions, St Fiachra’s Garden, a stunningly raw representation of our country’s singular landscape. There are guided tours, a gift shop and restaurant. Tel: 045 521 617
Glendalough
This beautiful glacial valley in County Wicklow is renowned as the place where Cistercian monks settled in the sixth century, and the remains of the monastic priory including a round tower can still be seen today. Known locally as “the valley of the two lakes” , the locals also say it will still your mind, inspire your heart and fill your soul. The early Christian monastic settlement was founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century and from this developed the “Monastic City”. Tel 0404 45325/45352. 6 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world. Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3 and 4pm. Opening hours, 10-5 Mon-Fri, Sat 11-5, Sun 1-5pm. Tel 01 407 0750
Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance. Tel: 01453 5984.
The Book of Kells
The Guinness Storehouse
Formerly known as the Hop Store, the Guinness Storehouse is laid out over seven floors surrounded by a glass atrium that rises up through its centre. You make your way up on a self-guided tour, where you learn all about the beer’s history, the central part that the Guinness family played in the development of the city, and of the world famous advertising campaigns that did so much to help promote it. Tours are 16.50 Euro, which includes your pint of Guinness in The Gravity Bar on the 7th floor. Which might sound a bit steep for a self-guided tour, but it’s all beautifully laid out and the whole experience is richly rewarding. Tel 01 408 4800
The Old Library and the Book of Kells Exhibition in Trinity College Dublin are the first things that all visitors gravitate to when first setting foot in Dublin. Located in the heart of the city, a walk through the cobbled stones of Trinity College will bring visitors back to the 18th century, when the magnificent Old Library building was constructed. And upstairs, you’ll find yourself in the magical environs of the justly famous Long Room. Inside the Book of Kells itself is a 9thcentury gospel manuscript famous throughout the world for its lavish decoration. The manuscript contains the four Gospels in Latin based on a Vulgate text, written on vellum (prepared calfskin), in a bold and expert version of the script known as “insular majuscule”. Guided tours of the campus, including the Old Library, The Books of Kells, and the magnificent Long Room upstairs are 12 Euro. Opening hours: 9:30-5:00 (4:30 Sun) Tel 01 896 1661
Explore Leinster
Jameson Visitors Centre
Bow St, Smithfield, Dublin 7 Experience the Jameson Distillery tour and let their expert guides take you back in time as they lead you through the fascinating story of Jameson. Set in a recreated distillery scene, all visitors learn how three ingredients make the number one Irish whiskey in the world. Guided tours last one hour and include a signature Jameson drink. Volunteers are selected to partake in a tutored whiskey tasting where each person receives a much coveted Irish Whiskey Taster Certificate. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. 01 807 2348
Cultural and Historical Walking Tours The streets of Dublin have been home to the Vikings, Normans, Elizabethans, Georgians and Victorians. What better way to explore its secret nooks and crannies than to take one of the many cultural and historical walking tours that the city has to offer. At Dublin Decoded, Arran Henderson provides a wide range of fascinating insights into Dublin’s history, with particular emphasis on its art and architecture. From “How To Read A Painting:symbols and meaning at the National Gallery” to Architecture of Georgian Splendour, and an historic Medieval Treasure Hunt. Alternatively you can talk to him about designing your own tour. See www.dublindecoded.com
The War Memorial Gardens
When you are visiting IMMA in Kilmainham, you should walk on over to Islandbridge about half a kilometer further on. The gardens there are dedicated to the memory of the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in the 1st World War. The names of all the soldiers are contained in the beautifully illustrated Harry Clarke manuscripts in the granite bookrooms in the gardens. Not merely a place of remembrance, they are also of great architectural interest and beauty. They are one of only four gardens in this country designed by the famous architect Sir Edwin Lutyens (1869-1944). The others being Heywood Gardens, Lambay Island and those in Howth Castle. The sunken rose gardens, herbaceous borders and extensive tree planting on view here make it well worth that extra bit of a walk. Open all year round. 01 475 7816
The National Museum of Ireland
The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. Admission to the museum is free and there are numerous exhibitions, talks and tours. Tel 01 6777444.
Avondale House and Forest Park
Avondale House was the birthplace and home of Charles Stewart Parnell (1846-1891), one of the greatest political leaders of Irish history. Set in a magnificent forest park of over 500 acres, there are tree trails and walks ranging in duration from one to five hours. Visitors are introduced to this wonderful historical house by a specially commissioned audio visual presentation. Other facilities include a licensed café, bookshop, picnic areas, children’s play area, three orienteering courses (maps can be downloaded at www. coillteoutdoors.ie) and a large car/coach park. 0404 46111 www.heritageisland.com
Casino Marino
The Casino was designed by Sir William Chambers as a pleasure house for James Caulfield, 1st Earl of Charlemont, and is one of the finest 18th century neo-classical buildings in Europe. The Casino, meaning “small house”, and notwithstanding its name, contains 16 finely decorated rooms, endlessly rich in subtlety and design. It is a remarkable building, both in terms of its structure and its history. The Casino is located at Marino, just off the Malahide Road and only three miles north of the centre of Dublin. Open 10-5pm, admission 3 Euro, 1 Euro for students and children. Tel 01 833 1618 DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 7
Jameson Dublin International Film Festival
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stablished in 2003, The Jameson Dublin International Film Festival (JDIFF) is Ireland’s premier film festival, bringing a whole array of outstanding Irish and international talent to these shores. This year’s festival runs from 19th to 29th of March and will see over 120 films screened in cinemas across Dublin City Centre; including Cineworld, The Savoy, Screen Cinema, The Irish Film Institute and The Light House. Most of the films on show will be Irish premieres and some films will receive their only Irish public screening at the festival. Irish talent will also be celebrated; with Irish film, from documentary to the latest releases, shown during the festival. Another great feature of JDIFF over the years has been the Q&A sessions with well known Irish and international figures. Daniel Day Lewis, Brendan Gleeson, Al Pacino, Danny DeVito and Joss Whedon have attended in previous years and this year sees more stellar names set to appear.
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The Water Diviner
Sex And The City’s Kim Cattrall will attend a screening of exclusive episodes of her new Sky Arts series, Sensitive Skin, in Movies@Dundrum. She will also participate in an elite master class at The Lir National Academy of Dramatic Art. Also attending JDIFF will be Academy Award winner Russell Crowe, who will attend a screening of his directorial debut The Water Diviner in The Savoy on 20th March. He will also participate in a post screening Q&A which should give a fascinating insight into one of Hollywood’s most intriguing characters. Closing out the festival will be the legendary Julie Andrews. The Academy Award winning actress will take part in a public interview in The Bord Gáis Energy Theatre and this will be followed by a gala screening of the perennial family favourite The Sound of Music in the Savoy to mark the 50th anniversary of the film.
Miss Julie
DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 9
Theatre
BWV 1051 and Symphony in G minor, opus 6 no. 6 WC 12. Sun 1st Feb Tel: 01 417 0000 Or go to www.nch.ie
The Gaiety
Gina Moxley (Helena) _ Barry McGovern (Demetrius) in Abbey Theatre’s new production of A Midsummer Night’s Dream by William Shakespeare Pic Ros Kavanagh
The Abbey For the first time in 35 years, the Abbey Theatre is proud to present A Midsummer Night’s Dream. This magical comedy continues their exploration of Shakespeare following the critically acclaimed Twelfth Night. True to Shakespeare’s original text, this contemporary interpretation of A Midsummer Night’s Dream centres on the residents of a nursing home. The vitality and timelessness of love come to the fore in this production immersed with beautiful verse and original music. 11 February – 28 March Tel 01 878 722
The Gate
The Caretaker By Harold Pinter
Building on the long-established and close relationship between Harold Pinter and The Gate Theatre, The Caretaker will be presented for the first time. This was the first of Pinter’s plays to bring him recognition and artistic success. It explores relationships and the struggle for power using comedy and tragedy to create a play that elicits complex reactions in the audience. Tuesday 10th February - 26th March Tel: 01 874 4045
National Concert Hall Masterworks : Essential Bach
The IBO explores the extended Bach family in this very enjoyable Dublin concert series. This Sunday afternoon concert delves into the wonderful works of Bach, including ; Concertante for flute oboe and bassoon in E flat major, WC37, Brandenburg Concerto No 6,
Winner of two Tony Awards and the Olivier Award for Best Play, Martin McDonagh’s The Pillowman opens in a prison cell where a young writer is being questioned about the childrens tales he has written – grim tales which have inspired copycat killings in the streets outside. Two interrogators tease out the resemblance between real and fictional worlds while probing the personal responsibility of the writer. 2nd – 14th March Tel: 01 679 5622
Bord Gais Energy Theatre Twelve Angry Men
Direct from the West End, Olivier Award Winner, Tony Award Winner, Variety Award Winner, and Academy Award and Golden Globe nominee TOM CONTI stars as juror number 8 (the role made famous by Henry Fonda) in TWELVE ANGRY MEN, following its recordbreaking run at London’s Garrick Theatre. Tom Conti is one of the most respected and celebrated actors of his generation. Unforgettable as the leading man in Merry Christmas Mr Lawrence and Shirley Valentine, he has also appeared as myriad characters on screen and stage. He was recently voted Most Popular Actor in the West End alongside Dame Judi Dench. 16th - 21st March Tel: 01 677 7999
Mermaid County Wicklow Arts Centre The Silver Tassie
Opening the BIFE Arts Festival in Bray and celebrating 20 years of actor training, the student actors at the Bray Institute for Further Education will perform Sean O’Casey’s huge, powerful, 1928 anti-war play The Silver Tassie. Tue 3rd - 6th March
The Albiez Trio with Theo Dorgan
Michael Feast, Garrett Lombard and Marty Rea in The Caretaker by Harold Pinter at the Gate Theatre. Photo Pat Redmond
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Laoise Kelly (harp), Tola Custy (fiddle) and Cormac Breatnach (whistle), known as Albiez Trio bring their unique style of Irish trad music to the Mermaid. Watch the Trio come alive as they take to the stage this March. Sat 7th March, Tel: 01 677 7999
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ocated on the original site of John Jameson’s first distillery on Bow Street, Dublin, is the Old Jameson Distillery. The distillery was founded in 1780, and until 1971 for almost 200 years it was Ireland’s most famous distillery. In 1971 the distilling of Jameson Irish Whiskey was transferred to the Midleton Distillery in County Cork. Following the transition the Bow Street Distillery lay unused and abandoned. Following this period of disuse the distillery reopened as a much celebrated Visitors Centre. The Smithfield based visitor centre has now won several awards for its service to tourists and whiskey enthusiasts alike. It is located only three minutes walk from the Smithfield Luas tram stop on the north side of the city. Throughout the day guided tours are given to visitors. The tour begins with a fascinating audio visual presentation which details the history of the John Jameson Distillery throughout the ages and also gives an interesting look into the history of Irish Whiskey. Distilling no longer takes place on the site but the Old Jameson Distillery has
been recreated, in smaller scale, so as to give a revealing inside view of the fascinating production of Jameson Whiskey and the journey it goes through. Each step of the distilling process is shown, from the beginnings of the malting and storing of barley, to fermentation and finally maturation and distilling. At the end of the tour each visitor is given a complimentary glass of Jameson or a Jameson Ginger & Lime cocktail, or a soft drink for those not partaking in alcohol. If you have a meal within the centre’s stunning 3rd Still restaurant you are treated to a view of the original foundations of the Jameson Old Distillery. There are also two bars on site, the JJ’s Bar and the Jameson Reserve Bar. The Old Jameson Distillery also has a gift shop where you can buy the Jameson Distillery Reserve, a 12 year old whiskey which is exclusively sold there and each bottle purchased can be personalised. From April to October, the Old Jameson Distillery hosts the highly popular Barrelman’s Feast, which is a wonderful taste of Irish music, food and of course the craic! DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 11
Fitzwilliam Card Club
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he Fitzwilliam Casino opened in Dublin in 2003, and is situated between Merrion and Fitzwilliam Square in the heart of the capital. There are basically five different games there for you to try your luck at. Probably the most iconic game on offer at pretty much any casino you care to visit is Roulette. Very simply, the dealer spins the wheel in one direction, and throws the ball in the other, and you bet on a variety of possible outcomes. Blackjack is reasonably straightforward, and most people will be familiar with the battle between you and the dealer as you both try to get as close as you can to the magic number of 21. Punto Banco is the most exotic of the games on offer, and is a version of Baccarat the game of choice for one Bond, James Bond. The dealer deals two hands, and you have to either bet on the player’s hand, the punto, or the dealer’s, the banco, or on a draw. The dealer then reveals which of the hands come closest to totalling 9, with pictures cards equal to 0, and aces equalling 1. Brit Brag, or Brag is a recent edition, and is basically 3 card poker. But the game that has really taken off, both here at the Fitzwilliam and across the globe is of course Poker. Texas Hold’em is by far and away the most popular form of poker played here, as indeed it is at most places. And viewers of late night television will be pretty familiar with how it’s played. There are nightly cash games (ie winner takes all) held at the Fitzwilliam beginning at 25 Euro a man. But the star attraction is the End of the Month Frieze Out which attracts around 130 regulars every month. Players buy in for 270 Euro, which produces a regular prize pool of 30,000 Euro and upwards which one lucky player gets to walk away with. And for the next few months there’s a special prize of a his and hers Rolex watches worth over 16 grand. Anyone who spends 100 Euro or more will be automatically included in the draw, which will take place the week before Christmas. And don’t worry if you’ll have gone back home to your own country by then. The Fitzwilliam has a long history of rewarding its foreign patrons. They’ll get your prize out to you wherever you live! Membership is free and can be done on the door or online.
01 6114677
www. Fitzwilliamcardclub.com
12 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
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Newgrange
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ewgrange in County Meath is one of the wonders of our land which was constructed over 5,000 years ago (about 3,200 B.C.), making it older than Stonehenge in England and the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt. Newgrange was built during the Neolithic or New Stone Age by a farming community that prospered on the rich lands of the Boyne Valley. Knowth (the largest) and Dowth are similar mounds that together with Newgrange have been designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. However throughout the region there are as many as 35 smaller mounds. Newgrange is a large kidney shaped mound covering an area of over one acre, retained at the base by 97 kerbstones, some of which are richly decorated with megalithic art. The 19 metre long inner passage leads to a cruciform chamber with a corbelled roof. The amount of time and labour invested in construction of Newgrange suggests a well-organized society with specialised groups responsible for different aspects of construction. For many years Archaeologists classified Newgrange as a passage tomb, however it is now recognised to be much more than a passage tomb and the term ‘Ancient Temple’ is now seen as a more fitting classification. It is a place of astrological, spiritual, religious and ceremonial importance, much as present day cathedrals are places of prestige and worship where dignitaries may be laid to rest.
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5,000 YEAR OLD NEWGRANGE Our World Heritage Site
Winter Solstice Newgrange is best known for the illumination of its passage and chamber by the winter solstice sun. Above the entrance to the passage at Newgrange there is a opening called a roof-box. This baffling orifice held a great surprise for those who unearthed it. Its purpose is to allow sunlight to penetrate the chamber on the shortest days of the year, around December 21st, otherwise known as ‘The Winter Solstice’. At dawn, from December 19th to 23rd, a narrow beam of light penetrates the roof-box and reaches the floor of the inner chamber, gradually extending to the rear of the chamber. As the sun rises higher, the beam widens within the chamber so that the whole room becomes dramatically illuminated. This event lasts for 17 minutes, beginning around 9am. The accuracy of Newgrange as a time-telling device is remarkable when one considers that it was built 500 years before the Great Pyramids of Egypt and more than 1,000 years before Stonehenge in England. The intent of its builders was undoubtedly to mark the beginning of the New Year. In addition, it may have served as a powerful symbol of the victory of life over death. Each year the winter solstice event attracts great attention at Newgrange. Many gather at the ancient tomb to wait for dawn, as people did 5,000 years ago. So much is the demand to be one of the few inside the chamber during the solstice that there is a free annual lottery (application forms are available at the Visitor Centre). Unfortunately, as with many Irish events that depend upon sunshine, if the skies are overcast, there is not much to be seen. However all who have been at Newgrange on ‘Solstice Morning’ agree that it is an extraordinary feeling to wait in the darkness, as people did so long ago, for the longest night of the year to end.
For further information contact: 041 988 0300
Recommended Restaurants in Leinster
777
7 Castle House, S George’s St., Dublin 2. tel 01 425 4052
Thornton’s Restaurant
Above the Fitzwilliam Hotel, Stephen’s Green. tel 01 478 7008
There’s been a huge influx of Chinese in Dublin of late, and the choice of Chinese food in the city has improved no end. But this is still the best place to find dim sum. And significantly, most of the people you’ll find eating here are other Chinese diners.
Super Miss Sue
Drury St, Dublin 2. tel 01 679 9009 One of the few places to get really great fresh fish in the centre of town, and surprisingly affordable. You can treat yourself to a full meal in the restaurant proper, or a traditional fish and chips of exceptional quality in the diner next door.
A little pricey for a Mexican restaurant, but well worth it. Beautifully decked out and effortlessly fashionable, you could comfortably skip the main courses and go instead for a selection of starters, which tend to be as generous as they are enticing.
Acapulco Mexican Restaurant
7 S George’s St, Dublin 2. tel 01 677 1085
Darwin’s Restaurant
80 Aungier St, Dublin 2. 01 475 7511
This one star Michelin restaurant is, as they say, reassuringly expensive. Which is only as it should be as the man in charge is Ireland’s finest chef, Kevin Thornton. If you have any intention of cementing a relationship, or of instigating a new one, this is the place to take them.
Yamamori
71-2 S. George’s St., Dublin 2. tel 01 475 5001
This family run restaurant caters to all possible tastes, whether carnivorous, coeliac or vegetarian. Their own in house butcher provides them with meats, game and poultry, they have fresh fish and a wide selection of dishes made from locally sourced vegetables. And you can finish it all off with their homemade desserts.
Fade Street Social
4 Fade St, Dublin 2. tel 01 604 0066 The latest venture from Dublin’s hottest hipster chef Dylan McGrath, this manages to be both screamingly fashionable and a really good restaurant, without being overpowering. It’s not quite as casual as it would have you believe, but it is really, really good.
This lively Mexican Restaurant offers the very best traditional Mexican cuisine, with sizzling fajitas, burritos, tacos and, best of all their famous deep fried icecream!
Ciao Bella Roma
24-5 Parliament St., Dublin 2. tel 01 677 0004
Café Topolis
37 Parliament St, Dublin 2. tel 01 670 4961 The original Yamamori on George’s Street still serves up the best and simplest Japanese food in Dublin. But Yamamori Sushi, their sushi bar on the quays, runs it a close second. And if you’re looking for something a bit more funky, there’s always Yamamori Izakaya.
The Good World
18 S George’s St, Dublin 2. tel 01 677 5373
These are the best pizzas you’ll find north of Naples, and are very much of the Neapolitan variety rather than the much thinner Roman sort. And their special lunch deal, which gives you a pizza and glass of wine for around a tenner is not just the best value lunch in town, it’s the best lunch full stop.
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Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.
Recommended Restaurants in Leinster
Le Bon Crubeen
81-2 Talbot St., Dublin 1. tel 01 704 1026
Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value.
Peploe’s
16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2. 01 676 3144
This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It won the Best Value Restaurant Dublin in “The Dubliner” Top 100 restaurants in 2012, having previously won the Irish Restaurant Awards’ Best Casual Dining Restaurant in Dublin in 2010. Value and quality.
Whitefriar Grill
16 Aungier St, Dublin 2. 01 475 9003
of the pier. So you get spectacular views of the sea, as you munch contentedly on creatures that were recently living there. And they’ve a good value early bird menu to take advantage of too.
KC Peaches
28-9 Nassau St, Dublin 2 01 633 6872 There are four KC Peaches (so far) in the centre of town, but the one opposite Trinity on Nassau Street is probably the best known of them. They specialise in giving you the freshest of ingredients with which to fashion your own lunch. Their salads are especially impressive.
The Elephant & Castle 19 temple Bar, Dublin 2 01 679 3121 Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park.
Zaragoza
18 William St., Dublin 2. 01 6794020
Dublin’s original American style casual diner, if you haven’t had their spicy chicken wings during your stay here, you really haven’t visited Dublin’s Temple Bar at all. But go early or in the middle of the afternoon, because it gets very busy at lunch.
Mao’s Restaurant Chatham Row, Dublin 2 01 670 4899
One of the best of the oriental fusion restaurants, there are actually four of them now out in Stillorgan, Dundrum and Dun Laoghaire as well as here in town. Thai and Asian flavoured noodles and rice, they offer an extensive menu at a reasonable price. And the food is top notch.
Zaytoon
14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel. 01 677 3595.
They pride themselves on putting brunch back on the menu, and in producing the best brunch in Dublin. But there’s a lot more than that going on at this superior smart casual restaurant. Their latest Ribs N Rump gives you a 14oz steak and a choice of ribs plus 2 sides for just €40 on Sunday nights.
Kafka Restaurant
236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6. 01 497 7057
The Spanish city of Zaragoza is any food lover’s idea of paradise. Zaragoza have taken some local delicacies along with some of Spain’s authentic specialties to create a unique dining experience.... seasoned with a generous helping of the homegrown hospitality they are famous for. So come down, sit back and explore the tantalizing recipes created by their chef and enjoy with friends a glass or two of their exquisite handpicked wines. Open Mon-Sun 12noon Midnight (last orders Tel: 01 6794020
Aqua Restaurant 1 West Pier, Howth 01 832 0690
One of the best places to get a bite to eat at the seaside village of Howth, Aqua is at the very end
Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.
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Recommended Pubs in Leinster
The Stag’s Head 1 Dame Court, Dublin 2 01 679 3687
This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming.
The Grave Diggers Hidden away just off of Dame Street, there’s been a tavern here on this corner for over 200 Years. And the Stags has long been a traditional haunt for Trinity students, and for the stars of film and television that they grow up to become. Whilst downstairs you can see comedy on Mondays or Irish Trad at the weekends.
Hourican’s Bar
7 Leeson St Lwr, Dublin 2 01 678 9030
Gravediggers
28 Parliament St, Kilkenny 056 776 2573
It reads “John Kavanagh” above the door outside, but everybody knows it as the Grave Diggers, as it’s just around the corner from Glasnevin Cemetery. Before Gunness became so efficiently corporate and the quality of a pint was far less predictable, this used to be where you’d go for the best pint in Dublin. It still is, and they haven’t changed a thing here for years. Happily.
Cleere’s pulls off that rare trick of successfully being two things at the same time. Out the front, it’s a classic, traditional Irish pub. And out back, it’s an exciting theatre that plays host to gigs and plays. And they are as serious about the acts that they allow perform there as they are about keeping the atmosphere exactly the same as it’s always been.
Johnnie Fox’s
Glencullen, Co Dublin. 01 295 5647 Set high up in the heart of the Dublin mountains, Fox’s is an institution. Superb food and a unique atmosphere, there’s Irish trad here every night, and at weekends in the afternoons as well. And there’s a shuttle bus that gets you there and back in 30 minutes for a fiver either way. But be sure to book, as it’s one of the most popular pubs in Leinster.
Situated at the Stephen’s Green end of Leeson Street, this is the perfect place to stop off for a quiet pint before heading off to some of the more glitzier venues in town proper, or on to the rest of the Leeson Street strip.
Grogan’s
15 S William St., Dublin 2 01 677 9320
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Cleere’s Bar and Theatre
1 Prospect Sq., Dublin 9 01 8307978
Recommended Pubs in Leinster
The Porterhouse
Temple Bar, 16-8 Parliament St, Dublin 2 01 679 8847
There are three now here in town, but the one on Parliament Street is the best known. part of the increasingly popular micro brewery scene, the Porterhouse produces its own choice of stouts, lagers and craft beers, as well as a choice of others from home and abroad. And they usually have live music playing on the mezzanine.
Sweeney’s Bar 32 dame St, Dublin 2 01 635 0056
One of the more recent additions to the Dublin pub scene, you can get to it either from Dame St or from the back of the Stag’s Head. And once inside, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d strayed into a Spanish or Greek taverna. The place is hopping at weekends with students and hipsters earnestly nodding their heads to the bands who play there. And out back, where Sweeneys meets the Stags is a veritable melting pot come the small hours of the morning.
Slattery’s of Rathmines
217-19 Lower Rathmines Rd, Dublin 6
There’s plenty to do in Dublin’s unofficial student quarter, but the only place to go drinking in Rathmines is really here at Slattery’s. No felt, carpet or neon in sight and only the odd television to stain this otherwise classic spit and sawdust pub. Enjoy it while you can as they seem to be going the way of the dodo.
The No Name Bar 3 Fade St, Dublin 2 01 648 0010
Officially it’s the bar above Kelly’s Hotel, opposite the Market Bar and next door to Hogan’s but locals only ever refer to it as the No Name bar. Up on the first floor they’ve taken a suite of elegant Victorian rooms and turned them into a laid back, fashionable bar, complete with a terraced smoking area. And, as you’d expect, they serve up a mean cocktail.
The Liquor Rooms 7 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2 087 339 3688
Situated under the Clarence Hotel on the quays, the Liquors Rooms offer up a heady mix of retro, vintage decor and a smart modern vibe that the too cool for school hipsters find hard to
Doheny & Nesbitt’s 5 Lower Baggot St, Dublin 2 01 676 2945
One of the oldest and more venerable pubs in Dublin, and traditionally the spot where politicians of old would juggle figures before swinging round the corner and into the Dail to present the next budget. It has now been extended both back and up, so that without sacrificing any of its illustrious history, it is now significantly roomier. resist. Once you get in, it’s actually a lot bigger than it seems, and there are all sorts of nooks and crannies for you to get up to who knows what kind of mischief.
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Glasnevin Cemetery Museum & Guided Tours
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elcome to Glasnevin! This unique location is Ireland’s largest cemetery, a grand and impressive Necropolis. Since 1828, more than 1.5 million people have been interred in Glasnevin - rich and famous, paupers and politicians, artists, warriors and heroes, all resting side by side in this renowned Victorian Garden Cemetery. Established by Daniel O’Connell as a place where people of “all religions and none” could bury their dead with dignity; the cemetery has grown to become a national monument and is a vital part of the Irish Heritage story. The exhibitions show the social, historical, political and artistic development of modern Ireland through the lives of the generations buried there. Glasnevin is now listed at # 1 on Tripadvisor of all ‘things to do’ in Dublin and receives excellent reviews, as well as the Travellers choice Award two years running. Key to that popularity is the tour guides whose enthusiasm is compelling. Brimming with banter and charm each guide is passionate about sharing their love of heritage and history. No two tours are the same with each guide giving their own personal interpretation. There is inspiration around every corner and at every grave, and with one and a half million stories buried in Glasnevin, there’s no shortage of tales to tell. Visitors gain a heightened sense of understanding of Irish history, and a deeper appreciation of Glasnevin’s never forgotten residents. Both the award-winning museum and the guided tours chart the fascinating history of this hallowed place, telling the stories of grave diggers and grave robbers, cholera epidemics, and world wars. Interactive exhibitions, dramatic
re-enactments, lectures and daily walking tours visiting many of the renowned iconic figures that shaped the country we live in today including Charles Stewart Parnell, Roger Casement, Eamon De Valera, Michael Collins, Constance Markievicz, Brendan Behan, Luke Kelly and Daniel O’ Connell. This is a unique opportunity to gain an understanding of Ireland’s complex and fascinating history. A visit inside Daniel O’Connell’s Celtic Romantic designed Crypt and tower, the tallest in Ireland, forms part of the tour.
Trace Your Ancestors
A genealogy research area, where access to the extensive online records can be accessed is a must for those researching their ancestry. Not only have the records been digitised, but images of the original hand written entries are attached to each record. Glasnevin honours the centuries old tradition of continuing to enter all records manually into giant leather bound tomes, which are kept in temperature and humidity controlled archive rooms in the museum building, thereby preserving the past for future generations. It is this meticulous record-keeping, coupled with advances in technology, that enables you to research your family history so thoroughly. Visit the museum shop, home to a terrific collection of Irish crafts, jewellery, mementos, historical books, and other interesting gift items or stop for a cuppa in The Tower Café - a popular pit stop for locals and visitors alike. The world famous National Botanic Gardens adjoins the cemetery and can be accessed via pedestrian gateway. Witness the incredible collection of rare plants housed in massive
conservatories, including the spectacular Palm House – combined with Glasnevin it’s now the second largest green space in Dublin with over 200 acres of mature parkland home to over 17,000 plants. Celebrating history, heritage and culture, join this intriguing journey through Ireland’s past, a visit to Glasnevin is a must for anyone interested in the rich cultural texture of Dublin.
Glasnevin Cemetery - Guided Tours
Private and public guided tours available daily. Private tours at 1130 and 1430 daily with Additional tours at 13.00 in June – Sept Additional summer tours; re-enactments, and special events – see website. Winner 2013 & 2014, Tripadvisor Travellers Choice Award and Certificate of Excellence City Sightseeing Bus tours provide hop on hop off service from the city centre.
Open year round. Mon-Fri 10.00-17.00 Sat, Sun & Bank Holidays 11.00-17.00. Tours daily at 1130 and 1430 with additional 1300 in summer Public Rates: Museum & Tour: Adult €12; Child €8; OAP €8; Student €8 Museum only: Adult €6; Child €4; OAP €4; Student €4 Tel: +353 (0)1 882 6550 museum@glasnevintrust.ie www.glasnevincemetery.ie DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 21
ESB Feis Ceoil
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reland has a rich musical history and the ESB Feis Ceoil which takes place from 16th to 27th March aims to preserve that heritage and cultivate the talent of tomorrow. With almost 200 competitions attracting over 5000 participants from all over Ireland, the festival covers all ages from seven upwards and can act as a springboard for the career of young musicians. The festival has run since 1897 and is notable for launching the career of the famous tenor John McCormack, who won the Gold Medal in the Tenor Competition in 1903. Ulysses author James Joyce won the Bronze Medal in the same category in 1904. Feis Ceoil takes place in venues all across Dublin city and categories include Choir, Vocal Ensemble, Solo Singing, Strings, Pianoforte, Organ, Woodwind, Brass and Conducting. This is an excellent chance to enjoy some wonderful music and get a glimpse of the stars of tomorrow.
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TOURS
EVENTS
GENEALOGY
EDUCATION
GLASNEVIN CEMETERY & MUSEUM
www.glasnevintrust.ie For further information contact T: +353 (0)1 882 6550 E: booking@glasnevinmuseum.ie
DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 23
St Patrick’s Festival 2015
S
t Patrick’s Day is a celebration of Irishness that is marked all over the world, but there’s no better place to be to celebrate than Dublin, where the St. Patrick’s Festival will take place between 14th and 17th March. As ever, there will be some fantastic free events that can be enjoyed by the whole family. In 2014 the festival kicked off a three year theme of ‘Past, Present and Future’. Last year’s theme was ‘Let’s Make History’, celebrating Ireland’s past and this year the theme is ‘Celebrate Now’, which will focus on present day Ireland. This will be the theme that artists, poets, dancers, filmmakers and musicians will present during the ‘I Love My City’ cultural programme that will take part in some of the most historical and culturally significant locations of Dublin. Other events that will take place over the four days include the Festival Treasure Hunt through Dublin’s landmark buildings, The Festival Big Day out in Merrion Square and a ceili on Stephen’s Green. The festival will culminate with the St. Patrick’s Festival Parade on 17th March. As ever, the parade will feature bands and floats from all over the world and the Grand Marshall of this year’s parade is a man who is Dublin to the core - Mrs Brown’s Boys writer and star Brendan O’Carroll. Brendan is delighted to have been chosen as the Grand Marshall of the parade, saying: “In asking me to be Grand Marshal of the Dublin Parade, St. Patrick’s Festival have honoured my family and honoured all of us working in Mrs. Brown’s Boys who try to bring a little piece of Dublin humour around the world. I attended the Dublin Parade in all weathers for over 50 years. From sitting on my sisters’ shoulders to having my own children sitting on mine.” 24 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
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Welcome to Munster
M
unster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.
Bunratty Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights
Limerick and sounds to suit all tastes. County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week 26 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
for all to enjoy. One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings Fota Wildlife Park are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Contact : Telephone No: 062 61437. E-mail: rockofcashel@opw.ie. County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’ and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity
to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.
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Recommended Pubs in Munster
The Bierhaus Pope’s Quay, Cork 021 455 1648
There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers.
An Brog
72-73 Oliver Plunkett St, Cork 021 4270074
kingdom there, or base themselves there for its duration.
Jack Meades (under the bridge) Dunmore Rd, Waterford 051 850 950
Set on 5 acres of impeccably kept lawns, this sprawling complex boasts a number of bars. The old world bar it has dates back to 1705, whilst its lime kiln and ice house were built around 1860. But there is also a modern bar, and an extensive beer garden looking down over the gardens and streams. And good quality food is served here throughout the day.
Dick Mack’s
Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry 066 915 1960
An Brog has been attending to fans of alternative and indie music for over 20 years now, and they’ve a constantly evolving roster of Djs and live bands catering to all and every musical taste. And best of all, they are open til 2 in the morning, seven days a week.
Buckley’s Bar
The Arbutus Hotel, College St, Killarney, Co Kerry. 064 6631037
Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub.
Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick 061 314 483 (ext 1)
The oak panelled walls and turf fire are the perfect accompaniment to the many musicians who drop in here for the impromptu sessions that seem to be forever going on here. Both bar and hotel have been welcoming visitors since it opened in 1926. And many people either begin their trip around the
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Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May.
Recommended Restaurants in Munster x
The Old Convent Clogheen, Co Tipperary 052 746 5565
The Lime Tree
Shelbourne St, Kenmare, Co Kerry 064 664 1225
Out of the Blue Dingle Harbour (066) 915 0811.
Hidden away in the village of Clogheen, with the possible exception of the Cashel Palace, this is the finest restaurant in the whole of county Tipperary. Only one sitting at 8pm, and a set tasting menu at 65 Euro, this is quite simply one of the finest dining experiences in Ireland.
Ballymaloe House Shanagarry, Co Cork 021 4652 531
Myrtle Allen bought Ballymaloe in 1948 and she and her extended families have been entertaining and educating the rest of the country ever since. Not cheap by any stretch of the imagination, but whether dining in the restaurant or staying on the grounds, this is about as luxurious as it gets.
Fishy Fishy Café
Crowley’s Quay, Kinsale, Co Cork. 01 470 0415
With the possible exception of Kinsale, Kenmare is Ireland’s unofficial culinary capital. And this is one of the town’s very best restaurants, specializing in wonderfully fresh fish and succulent lamb.
Dromoland Castle
Newmarket-on-Fergus, Co Clare 061 368 144 Quite simply one of the most imposing and impressive castles on these islands, it boasts rooms and a restaurant to match its imperious surroundings.
They serve only only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment.
An Canteen Dykgate st Dingle Tel 0866603778.
Ristorante Rossini 33-4 Princess St, Cork city. 021 427 5818 Kinsale is unquestionably the food capital of Ireland, and this by common consent is one of its finest restaurants. Impeccably fresh fish at reasonable prices.
Isaacs Restaurant McCurtain St, Cork city. 021 450 3805
Hidden away in a budget style hotel, Isaacs has always had a reputation with locals for being a considerably better quality restaurant than you might have expected. And as you’d expect, its very reasonably priced too.
Small quaint front room restaurant with locally sourced high quality ingredients making this little gem a must visit when in Dingle.
The Mustard Seed Ballingarry, Co Limerick 069 68508
About 40 minutes outside of Limerick City, off the Adare road, this is one of those roomy country houses that’s been transformed into a top class hotel and restaurant. One of the finest restaurants in Munster.
La Cucina Antonio Toscano opened this Italian restaurant in the heart of Cork City in 1994, and has always gone out of his way to staff it with his fellow country men and women, from both the North and the South of Italy. And it’s this, together with their extensive menu that makes eating here as close to actually dining in Italy as you could hope to find.
5 University Court, Castletroy, County Limerick. Tel 061 333980 Simply one of the best places for a pizza in the country.
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Explore Munster
Cliffs of Moher
Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.
Blarney Castle
The Hunt Museum
The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore. 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com
Ring of Kerry
The Ring of Kerry ( Irish: Mórchuaird Chiarraí) is not a ring in the conventional sense but a 179-km-long circular tourist route in County Kerry. Clockwise from Killarney it follows the N71 to Kenmare, then the N70 around the Iveragh Peninsula to Killorglin, passing through Sneem, Waterville, Cahersiveen, and Glenbeigh, before returning to Killarney via the N72. The scenery along this route is spectacular to behold and the route takes you through the Gap of Dunloe, the Bog Village, past Rossbeigh Beach, Torc Waterfall, Muckross House, The Blue Pool, Ross Castle, the Ogham Stones, and many more visitor attractions.
Bunratty Castle The Burren
Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. And notwithstanding how impressive an example it is of a medieval castle, this is probably because of the famous stone you will there at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab. Which needless to say they duly receive. 021 438 5252 30 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again. To Begin to discover the secrets of the Burren, a walk through the Burren Centre Exhibition is essential.
Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past. You can explore at your own leisure or join in a guided tour with the experienced guides. At night time the castle is the impressive setting for the medieval castle banquets which are held all year round.
Kenmare Antiques IRISH CRAFT SHOP Est. 1995
in Irish Knitwear, “ We SellSpecialists Traditional Aran Sweaters, Tweeds and Wool Products Wool & Tweed Products”
Open 7 Days A wonderful place to pick up unique items from times past! 14 Henry Street, Kenmare, Co. Kerry 064 6642788, 086 3150923 www.kenmareantiques.com kenmare.antiques@gmail.com
CashmereIreland.com by Sue Designer Knits 20 Henry Street, Kenmare, Ireland Email: info@cashmereireland.com Tel: 064 6648986
20 Henry Street, Kenmare, Ireland Email: info@cashmereireland.com Tel: 064 6648986
Located on Top Floor of St. Stephens Green Centre
www.donegalshop.ie
Top Floor, St. Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 Phone: 014754621 Website: www.donegalshop.ie
Nick Roeg Documentary
T
he picturesque town of Dingle in Co. Kerry is the setting for the Dingle International Film Festival which runs from 12th to 15th March. The festival screens new movies along with some old classics, and this year includes a screening of Who Framed Roger Rabbit and the Oscar nominated Song of The Sea. Animation plays an important part of the festival, with Animation Dingle running on 12th and 13th March. This gives animation students from all over Ireland the chance to meet industry leaders. This year’s 32 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
Keynote Presentation will be made by Nickelodean UK’s Tim Paterson. There will also be an outdoor Sketching Masterclass around the Dingle Peninsula hosted by JAM Media’s Chris Dicker and the Oscar nominated Tomm Moore. The Dingle Peninsula was the setting that inspired Tomm Moore when he was making Song of The Sea. The Dingle International Film Festival is also the home of Ireland’s first ever animation awards. The Animation Ireland Awards take place in The Dingle Skellig Hotel during the festival. But it’s not just animation that’s celebrated during the festival. There will be a range of excellent short films shown, with Q&A’s with most of the filmmakers before and after the screenings. Irish film will also be celebrated, with Mark McLoughlin’s The Outsiders due to be shown. There will also be a Q&A with producer Brenda Ni Shuilleabhain following the lunchtime premiere of her new film Subs. There are some great events to keep kids entertained, including Nico and Martin presenting SPACE, an interactive music workshop for kids, and also Lá Na Óg in An Lab where Físín winner Niamh Lawlor will present Béirín Beag Buí. The Dingle International Film Festival offers something for everyone, from film students to families, in one of the most beautiful parts of the country.
Robert Altman
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Welcome To Connaught
Ancient stone walls in the Aran Islands
T
he province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran
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Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Connaught has some of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the film ‘The Quiet The Claddagh by night Man ‘ was filmed, and the natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a must for all. For those interested in a religious experience Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist
are reputed to have appeared. The apparition was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged from six years to seventy-five and included men, women and children. The shrine has become so popular in modern times that the Ireland West International Airport was built especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to Connaught. The county also features the pilgrimage site known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to the present day without interruption. Croagh Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom of trekking up the mountain has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside with magnificent views of Clew Bay beneath. So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught has it all.
Ennis Book Club Festival
L
overs of literature, poetry and politics should head for the Ennis Book Club Festival, which runs from 6th to 8th March. Book clubs from all over Ireland and beyond are invited to come along to share in the joy of reading and meet authors to discuss their work. You don’t have to be in a book club to take part though as there’s something there for everyone. Taking place in venues across the town, guests include poets Eiléan Ní Chuilleanáin and Peter Fallon and author Denis Sampson, who will read from his memoir The Migrant Heart, which tells the story of his journey from East Clare to Canada. There will also be a ‘Ones to Watch’ session featuring up and coming authors, including Hennessy New Irish Writer 2015 Sara Baume, and that’s just a taste of the stellar line up for a festival that offers so much to lovers of the written word.
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Recommended Restaurants in Connaught
Kai Café
Sea Rd. Galway city. 091 526 003
Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West.
The Cottage Restaurant Jamestown, Co. Leitrim. 071 962 5933
Head chef Sham Hanifa’s sauces are so well regarded, you can buy jars of them to take away with you after your meal. Originally from Malaysia, he’s been here in Leitrim for over 14 years and applies his culinary skills to the local Irish produce that are native to the West.
Ashford Castle
Cong, Co. Mayo. 094 954 6003 Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906.
Upstairs @ West Restaurant The Twelve, Barna, Galway city. 091 597000 David and Jessica Murphy’s restaurant in the heart of Galway has justly won a mountain of awards over the last couple of years, including Restaurant of the Year in 2012. Of the many, many who sing its praises, John McKenna wrote, “It’s vital food, packed with good energy, and it lifts you up to eat it because it’s so simple and elemental.”
Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit.
Waterfront House Restaurant Enniscrone, County Sligo. 096 37120
Eala Bhán
Rockwood Parade, Sligo town. 071 914 5823
If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell.
The Yew Tree Restaurant
Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon. 090 666 1255 Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food.
An Port Mór Restaurant
1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo. 098 26730
The Waterfront House Restaurant boasts one of the most outstanding sea views in Ireland. You can wine, dine and relax as you peer out over the 5km beach overlooking Killala Bay. Since it opened in 2011 the Seaview Restaurant and Wine Bar have become popular with locals and visitors alike. Fresh Seafood is a specialty. DECEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 37
Recommended Pubs in Connaught
Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons) 17 Cross st, Galway 091 568 820
Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.
The Quays
11 Quay St, Galway 091 568 347
Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now!
Furey’s Pub Bridge St, Sligo 087 958 3080
Furey’s is located in the centre of Sligo, and is your no nonsense, strictly Irish trad music only, Irish pub. And they are as keen on real beer as they are on serious music, offering up an impressive choice craft beers.
Bosh Bar and Restaurant Don’t be put off by the reams of tourists that flock here all year round, there’s a reason that this pub enjoys such a lofty reputation. It looks and feels exactly like an Irish pub should. And be sure to check out the back of the pub which has been decked out with stained glass and wooden pews borrowed from a Medieval French church!
Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo 094 925 0534
Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar.
Roísín Dubh
Matt Malloy’s
Lower Dominick St., Galway 091 586 540
Bridge St., Westport 098 26655
It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ
This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within.
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Explore Connaught
Kylemore Abbey
Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic walled garden. The castle was bought by the Benedictine nuns in 1920. The Victorian walled garden was re-opened in 1999 and won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food. This is a gem and should definitely be at the top of any visitors list.
Glencar Waterfall
Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. As you reach Glencar which straddles the border between counties Sligo and Leitrim with its dramatic steep cliffs, you will notice a series of waterfalls cascading from the heights. Glencar waterfall is perhaps the most dramatic, descending from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.
Inishbofin Island
Inishbofin (island of the white cow) is situated seven miles off the Galway coastline and is an extremely popular tourist attraction.The island is 5.7km by 4km, and has three official looped walks of varying difficulties, each offering spectacular views of the island’s wild Atlantic scenery. The island also has several safe, award winning sandy beaches, and its clear waters make swimming, snorkelling and diving a joy. Two of the beaches on Inishbofin have been awarded the ‘Green Coast Award’, prized for their exceptional water quality and their natural, unspoilt environment.
Croagh Patrick
Connemara
Mullaghmore
Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Indeed, on 8 March 2012, surfers and windsurfers from all over the world rode waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable. And it is overlooked by the majestic Ben Bulbin mountain.
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Connemara is one of God’s gifts to this world with unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the North through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean. Connemara’s land boundary with the rest of County Galway is marked by the Invermore River which flows into the north of Kilkieran Bay.
Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside. You get spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding Mayo countryside from all stages as you climb. Widely considered the holiest mountain in Ireland, pilgrimages date all the way back to the time of the pagans, when people are thought to have gathered here to celebrate the beginning of harvest season. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year. 098 64114
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Welcome to Ulster
Marble Arch Caves
T
he Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise.
is the most notable. The famous mountains or ‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland. Giants Causeway
Malin Head
County Donegal is in the northwest of the Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly 42 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the new
Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.
Belfast City Hall
Explore Ulster
Titanic Belfast
Since it opened in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, and over a million visitors went through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six story building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the very site where the famous ship was first built. Once you enter the building proper, you’re introduced to the building’s giant atrium surrounded by the four “ships”, hull shaped wings which act as the beginning of the Titanic experience. Your journey will then take you through the building’s nine galleries, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end. The story is brought up to the present with the discovery of the wreck, and into the future with live links to contemporary undersea exploration. And the galleries employ a variety of interactive media including CGI, film, audio, artefacts and full-scale replicas. Not only that, there’s an actual ride through the Titanic giving you a view of how the ship was physically put together. Tel 028 9076 6386
The Giant’s Causeway
The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast north of the town of Bushmills. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to the East to take on a giant who lived over there. Voted by BBC Radio listeners as the fourth greatest natural wonder in the UK, visitors flock here from all over the world to marvel at one of Europe’s most magnificent coastlines and its unique rock formations, which have stood as a natural rampart against the unbridled ferocity of Atlantic storms for millions of years. The rugged symmetry of the columns never fails to intrigue and inspire people. And to stroll along the Giants Causeway is to voyage back in time. In 1986 they opened the Giants Causeway Visitors centre, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its coveted list of sites, which are of exceptional interest and universal value. And the National Trust which oversees the Causeway provides the half million tourists who go there every year with any and all the information that they might need.
The Old Bushmills Distillery In 1608, King James I of England granted Sir Thomas Phillipps a license to distil whiskey, and Bushmills became the first ever distillery in the world to begin officially producing it. “Whiskey” with an “e” is Irish by the way, and without is Scotch. And the word itself originated from the Irish word for water, “uisce”. Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. In 2008, Bushmills celebrated the 400th anniversary of their original licence to distil whiskey. They marked the occasion with the release of a limited edition Irish whiskey of exceptional smoothness, Bushmills 1608. Today Bushmills Irish Whiskey is owned by Diageo, and over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens. Tel 028 2073 3218
Ulster American Folk Park
Situated at the base of the Sperrin mountain range just 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories. Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier. Meet an array of costumed characters on your way with traditional crafts to show, tales to tell and food to share. And you can also avail of the facilities at the residential centre and museum restaurant. They offer an array of ensuite rooms, and dorms that sleep up to 7 in bunk beds, with linen, laundry and drier rooms, plus kitchens, bathrooms, and TV, DVD and games rooms. Museum: +44 (0) 28 8224 3292 Residential centre: +44 (0)28 8224 0918
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Donegal H
op into the car and follow scenic Inishowen peninsula. Those with an interest Hire a pedalo at Portsalon military history will want to see Fort Dunree Golden sandy beaches and rolling farmland the Wild Atlantic Way in Military Museum near Buncrana. Further along,you threaded by narrow roads set the scene in the touring route to Donegal’s will find Doagh Famine Village, an outdoor secluded Fanad peninsula squeezed in between hidden gems of amazing holiday museum,which provides a thought-provoking look Lough Swilly and Mulroy Bay and leading to the area from the tragedy of the Famine in the remote Fanad Head. Families can enjoy a day of experiences, colourful people and at 1840s up to the present day. watersports at picture-postcard resorts such as outstanding natural beauty. Rathmullan or Portsalon. Take your pick from Nestling as it does on the most spinning for mackerel off a pier, learning to fly-fish for rainbow trout, hire a pedalo or paddle a kayak. north westerly point of the island Drink in the best views in Europe If you are feeling energetic, why not saddle up and of Ireland this county is rich in gallop along the shores beaches,glens and mountains of Lough Swilly on the pristine Rathmullan Strand. As you drive around this thrilling peninsula be not to mention a people whose prepared for delays on single track roads; your friendliness and Cead mile Failte path may be blocked by a herd of heifers and you (one hundred thousand welcomes) will be reduced to cow-speed; don’t forget you are in north Donegal where the motto festina lente is legendary. Here are some of the ‘hurry slowly’ applies and where life moves at an outstanding attractions that make easy pace. this county unique.
Sliabh Liag
An Grianán
Malin Head
Dip into history or look up at the night sky from Ireland’s most northernly point
A narrow road twists steeply up from Teelin to the dramatic Slieve Liag cliffs and mountains. From the viewing point, you look across one of the finest panoramas in Europe that will set your heart racing. The nearby cultural centre, Tí Linn, is run by Paddy Clarke, a rich source of information on the area and its archaeological heritage.
Fanad Head Aileach
Awaken your mystical spirit
Catch a cloudless evening and you may be enchanted by a night sky display of the Aurora Borealis, the Northern Lights. The celestial light show, with its ghostly wispy rays of dancing colours has been seen hanging like a fluorescent curtain over Malin Head – what better reason to go than to witness this astonishing sight. As you make your way around the 100-mile circuit of the
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Perched 800 ft. above sea level, on a spectacular hilltop in Inishowen, the Grianán of Aileach fort is a former home of the Irish High Kings. Sweeping views take in patchwork fields and lakes as well as the wider hilly countryside. At the nearby Old Church Visitor Centre you can enjoy the latest multimedia technological exhibits surrounding the mythical Tuatha De Danann Race of Gods and Warriors.
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Jewel of the Wild Atlantic Way
Glenveagh National Park Look out for golden eagles
The largest tract of land in the wildest part of Donegal, Glenveagh National Park incorporates moorland, mountain, lakes and woods within its 40,000 acres of wilderness. You may be lucky enough to catch sight of soaring golden eagles which have been reintroduced into the area or chance upon a shy red deer.
In the south of the county, Bundoran has become the unrivalled gung-ho centre of surf culture hosting world class competitions. Regarded as the top spot by the black-clad brigade, it is a place where wave-riding runs deep in the veins of some locals’ blood. Set against a backdrop of dramatic scenery and beaches, the reefs around Bundoran are world renowned, producing the optimal wave size. Donegal Adventure Centre in Bundoran -– the largest of its kind in Ireland – provides expert tuition from qualified instructors in the tricky art of staying up on your board. If you are new to surfing, a good place for beginners is Rossnowlagh, a few miles north.
Donegal Garden Golfing Trail Outdoor tonic
Donegal’s exposed coastline is home to many unusual plant species at over twenty gardens public and private - dotted along the coast.
Surfing in Bundoran Ride the Waves
As a golf tourism destination, Donegal with premium seaside courses takes some beating. Many championship 18-hole courses are set in areas of natural beauty and Bundoran Golf Club, founded in 1894, co-hosts the West Coast Challenge each year. During the 1950s it was the home of the ‘Master Golfer’ Christy O’Connor Senior. At Murvagh, on the shores of Donegal Bay, Donegal Golf Club was named by Golf World as one of
Ireland’s top 10 club.. With one of the longest courses in Europe, it suits the big hitters. In the north of the county, Ballyliffin Golf Club has two fine championship links and comprises 365 acres of dune land. In 2006 Sir Nick Faldo re-designed the Old Links course.
Glencolumbcille Folk Village Museum
There are few better places better to delve into the past than at Glencolumbcille Folk Village. This clachan, or village, comprises eight thatched, whitewashed cottages showcasing three specific years of Irish culture: 1720, 1820 and 1920. New exhibitions house a fisherman’s cottage and a traditional pub-grocery and shoemaker’s shop. Potter around this reflective place and you will find a sweat house (an early Irish sauna) replica lime kilns and mass rocks.
Festivals
For a truly memorable holiday experience attend any of Donegal’s many festivals which include cultural, activity and special interests. Renowned for their hospitality, natural curiosity and friendship the people of Donegal would love you to spend sometime in the county they love so well.
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Ulster Recommended Pubs
The Crown Liquor Saloon 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast 028 9024 3187
Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin.
White’s Tavern
2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast 028 9024 3080 Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down.
Kelly’s Cellars 30-32 Bank St, Belfast 028 9024 6058
Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food.
The John Hewitt 51 Donegall St., Belfast 028 9023 3768
This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city.
The Duke Of York 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast 028 9024 1062
One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and
whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further.
Peadar O’Donnell’s 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry 028 7126 7295
There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore. Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry.
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Recommended Restaurants in Ulster
Ox
1 Oxford St, Belfast. 0044 28 9031 4121 Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.
spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.
The Ginger Bistro
7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast. 0044 28 9031 1150 Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining
7-8 Hope St, Belfast. 0044 28 9024 4421
55 Degrees North
1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim. 0044 28 7082 2811
experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.
This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers.
Vanilla Restaurant
The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger.
Deane’s Restaurant
36-40 Howard St, Belfast. 0044 28 9033 1134
67 Main St, Newcastle. 0044 28 4372 2268
Shu
253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast. 0044 28 9038 1655 They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table.
Telfords Restaurant
Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.
5 Donegall Quay, Belfast. 0044 28 9043 4000 Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.
Lough Erne Resort
Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh. 0044 28 6632 3230
Sun Kee Restaurant
42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast. 0044 28 9031 2016 One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics.
Lusty Beg
Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh. 0044 28 6863 3300
This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most
This island spa is set on a 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.
Sakura, 82 Botanic Av, Belfast
0044 28 9043 9590 In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant.
Speranza Restaurant, 16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast 044 28 9023 0213 Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.
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County Fermanagh - A Lakeland Paradise
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ith over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise.
Fishermen and water based activities line the shore of Lough Erne throughout the summer as it meanders its way through Fermanagh. The Lough rises in the Shannon Pot in County Cavan and travels in two parts, the Upper Lough and the Lower Lough which meet in the middle of Fermanagh at Ireland’s only island town Enniskillen. The Upper Lough(which stretches from Belturbet in County Cavan to Enniskillen) is considered to be one of the best pike fishing lakes in Europe with common catches reaching 20 to 30lbs weight. Meanwhile Lower Lough Erne (which runs from Enniskillen to Ballyshannon in Donegal) is famous for its Mayfly Fishing. World Coarse fishing records have also been broken many times on Lough Erne. For further information contact: Fermanaghlakelands.com
the pagan and early Christian times and up to the present day. There are a number of privately operated pleasure cruisers which take tourists through Lower Lough Erne stopping off at such historic sites as Devenish Island with its Monastic settlement and completely intact Round Tower Belleek Pottery
Ardowen Theatre
Enniskillen nestles in the heart of the county and has everything a large town should have such as a Theatre, two museums, beautiful Churches, large shopping areas and well maintained banks leading to Lough Erne which completely surrounds the town. This ancient town was the headquarters of the Maguire Clan the Chieftains of Fermanagh and indeed the name in Irish is ‘Fear manach’ which roughly translates as ‘the place of the men of Manach’. The town has an historic castle which has in its complex not just the Fermanagh County Museum but the Inniskillings (old spelling) Museum. The Inniskilling Museum is dedicated to the two British Army regiments, the Royal Inniskilling Fusiliers and the 5th Royal Inniskilling Dragoon Guards. The town has the distinction of being the only town in the UK to have given its name to two regiments. The County Museum meanwhile traces the early history of Fermanagh back to 48 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2014
which dates back to the 6th century AD. Fermanagh has always been famous for its crafts and the Buttermarket in the centre of Enniskillen is still thriving today with artisans carefully making their wares. Perhaps the best known Fermanagh craft is the world renowned handcrafted Belleek Pottery, The pottery itself lies 26 miles south west of Enniskillen along a road
Marble Arch Caves Global Geopark
which follows the route of Lough Erne and the scenery along that route is breathtaking. Having reached Belleek you cannot miss the pottery as the huge building dominates the southern part of the village. The pottery is rightly proud of its unique place at the top of the world gift market and the site has a Visitors Centre which has a four star rating. There are also guided tours of the factory which can be arranged by contacting visitorcentre@belleek.ie. Having gazed in awe at the beauty of the lakeland and all that can be seen above ground in Fermanagh, the visitor should not go away without a trip to the Marble Arch Caves Global Geopark. Located near the village of Florencecourt the caves are a wonder of nature rarely seen. They are amongst the finest show caves in Europe. This is a place where visitors are guided through a natural underworld of rivers, waterfalls, winding passages and lofty chambers. Visitors can take a boat trip on the subterranean river, or walk through the caves and marvel at the colours which the reflection from the underground lighting system throws up when they pass stalactites. This is nature at its finest, most fascinating, most glorious and an experience visitors will never forget. Contact the Marble Arch Caves at 0044 28 6634 8855 before travelling .
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Bushmills Distillery
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ushmills Irish Whiskey Distillery is Ireland’s oldest working distillery and is based in the scenic heart of County Antrim, Northern Ireland. It is believed to have first begun operating as early as 1608 and was appointed to do so by King James 1st. Bushmills Distillery has been distilling it’s world famous Whiskey ever since. The distillery is commended for and unique in that they use the water from their private fresh stream and Irish barley. For those who wish to visit the distillery and learn about its history, there is The Bushmills Brand Experience. The Bushmills Brand Experience involves guided tours through the working distillery, where visitors can take in all sights, sounds and smells of a working distillery. Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland that creates triple-distilled single malt whiskey. Throughout the tour visitors will see the copper pot stills used to distil this beloved spirit. Triple-distillation is seen as one of the most famous qualities of Bushmills whiskeys. Included in the tour is also whiskey tastings and upon completing the tour, visitors can go to Bushmills specialist whiskey shop. A complimentary whiskey or soft drink is then offered in their impeccably furnished 1608 Bar. The Distillery Tour Centre is open 7 days a week. The Bushmills Whiskey Distillery is renowned for creating five awardwinning whiskeys: Bushmills Original, Black Bush, Bushmills 10 Year Single Malt, Bushmills 16 Year Single Malt and Bushmills 21 Year Single Malt. The newest new addition to their range is Bushmills Irish Honey. They also create their Distillery Reserve, a 12 Year Single Malt that is only available to taste and buy from the Distillery and the label on this whiskey can be personalised within the Gift Shop. The Distillery Tour Centre is open 7 days a week.
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