Travelireland Volume 2 Issue 13 May 2015
magazine
International Literature Festival Dublin
International Dublin Gay Theatre Festival is here OH YES! Rory Gallagher we salute you!
VLM airlines winging their way to Waterford!
Wexford in all its Sun filled Glory Wexford Food & Wine Festival Waterford Writers weekend
187 Performances Comedy - Drama - Music - Dance
It‘s for YOU! 12
The
th
- annual -
May 4th – 17th Check out our programme or book tickets online at gaytheatre.ie ............................ Tickets 10€/13€/15€. Nightly Venue tickets 25€ ............................ Box Office opens 27th April Mon-Fri | 12:00-15:00 The Grattan Café, 6A Ormond Quay Lwr., Dublin 1 (+353 85 129 8158) Dublin Gay Theatre Festival
@gaytheatre
contents...
www.travelirelandmagazine.com Twitter: @traveliremag Facebook: Travel Ireland Magazine
Welcome to our May issue, Whether this is your first time visiting these our shores, or whether you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. Whether it is myths and medieval castles, or craic and culture in the confines of a cozy pub and to the tune of a stray tin whistle, you are going to need a friendly hand to gently point you in the right direction. So from all of us here at Travel Ireland, a hefty and heart-felt Céad míle fáilte! And enjoy your stay!
Publisher John Carey Director Paul Daly Features Writer Mark O Brien Design and Art Direction Tim Evans Credit Control Manager Nichola Thomas nichola@ellenmediacom.ie Advertising John Carey john@ellenmediacom.ie 01 5612431, 087 9113732 Bill Daly bill@travelirelandmagazine.ie 087 1533262 Aran Sheehan 085 7110826 aran@travelirelandmagazine.ie Contributors: Adam Patterson Photograhy, Arran Henderson, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’Neill, Stephen Walker, Emma Brereton, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael Mc Laughlin, We wish to record our thanks to Paula Sneyd, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht. And to the Northern Ireland Tourist Board, and The National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI), for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. And to Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images. Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishe’rs prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.
04 - WELCOME TO LEINSTER 06 - EXPLORE LEINSTER 08 - International Dublin Gay Theatre Festival
10 - THEATRE 12 - LEINSTER SHOPPING 14 - Internationl Literature Festival Dublin
16 - LEINSTER RESTAURANTS 18 - LEINSTER PUBS 20 - Visit Wexford 22 - Canalaphonic 24 - Wexford Food & Wine Festival 26 - WELCOME TO MUNSTER 28 - MUNSTER PUBS 29 - MUNSTER RESTAURANTS 30 - EXPLORE MUNSTER 32 - Waterford Airport 34 - Kerrygold Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food & Wine
36 - Waterford Writers Weekend 38 - WELCOME TO CONNAUGHT 39 - Gospel Rising Music Festival 40 - EXPLORE CONNAUGHT 41 - The Lady Sligo Letters 42 - CONNAUGHT RESTAURANTS 43 - CONNAUGHT PUBS 44 - WELCOME TO ULSTER 48 - Donegal 50 - EXPLORE ULSTER
Leinster - The east coast province
L
Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city.
Four Courts, Dublin
If you want to escape to the country without actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country. County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and 4 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
Hill of Tara restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach. County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone.Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of
the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June. Laois is where you can try your hand at a range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls
Kilkenny Castle
stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum . Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor. Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!
Explore Leinster
The James Joyce Museum The Chester Beatty Library In 1904, James Joyce stayed in the Martello Tower in Sandycove as a guest of Oliver St. John Gogarty. Although his stay was short, the Martello Tower became the setting for the opening of Joyce’s masterpiece Ulysses. The Martello Tower is now the home of the James Joyce Museum, dedicated to the life and work of one of Ireland’s greatest writers. Open all year round with free admission, the James Joyce Museum has many first editions of Joyce’s work on display. Visitors can also view pictures inspired by Joyce and his work, photographs of the author, his family and his friends, and one of two plaster death masks made by the sculptor Paul Speck. The James Joyce Museum is a must visit for lovers of literature. www.joycetower.ie
Glendalough
This beautiful glacial valley in County Wicklow is renowned as the place where Cistercian monks settled in the sixth century, and the remains of the monastic priory including a round tower can still be seen today. Known locally as “the valley of the two lakes” , the locals also say it will still your mind, inspire your heart and fill your soul. The early Christian monastic settlement was founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century and from this developed the “Monastic City”. Tel 0404 45325/45352. 6 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world. Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3 and 4pm. Opening hours, 10-5 Mon-Fri, Sat 11-5, Sun 1-5pm. Tel 01 407 0750
Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance. Tel: 01453 5984.
The Book of Kells
The Guinness Storehouse
Formerly known as the Hop Store, the Guinness Storehouse is laid out over seven floors surrounded by a glass atrium that rises up through its centre. You make your way up on a self-guided tour, where you learn all about the beer’s history, the central part that the Guinness family played in the development of the city, and of the world famous advertising campaigns that did so much to help promote it. Tours are 16.50 Euro, which includes your pint of Guinness in The Gravity Bar on the 7th floor. Which might sound a bit steep for a self-guided tour, but it’s all beautifully laid out and the whole experience is richly rewarding. Tel 01 408 4800
The Old Library and the Book of Kells Exhibition in Trinity College Dublin are the first things that all visitors gravitate to when first setting foot in Dublin. Located in the heart of the city, a walk through the cobbled stones of Trinity College will bring visitors back to the 18th century, when the magnificent Old Library building was constructed. And upstairs, you’ll find yourself in the magical environs of the justly famous Long Room. Inside the Book of Kells itself is a 9thcentury gospel manuscript famous throughout the world for its lavish decoration. The manuscript contains the four Gospels in Latin based on a Vulgate text, written on vellum (prepared calfskin), in a bold and expert version of the script known as “insular majuscule”. Guided tours of the campus, including the Old Library, The Books of Kells, and the magnificent Long Room upstairs are 12 Euro. Opening hours: 9:30-5:00 (4:30 Sun) Tel 01 896 1661
Explore Leinster
The War Memorial Gardens
Avondale House and Forest Park
The Old Jameson Distillery Experience the Old Jameson Distillery whiskey tour and let expert guides take you back in time as they lead you through the fascinating story of Jameson Irish Whiskey. At the end of the tour, all visitors are rewarded with a complimentary dram of whiskey at the Jameson Bar and partake in a comparison whiskey tasting session where you will learn how to tell the differences between Scotch, Irish, and American whiskey. The tour finishes at the exclusive gift store where people may choose to buy a personalised bottle or a memento of their visit. Dublin is a city famous for its whiskey and a visit to the Old Jameson Distillery is essential for any person looking to explore, sightsee or even just enjoy themselves and have a drink. Open Daily from 9am-6pm Tel: 01 8072348/ 2316
Cultural and Historical Walking Tours The streets of Dublin have been home to the Vikings, Normans, Elizabethans, Georgians and Victorians. What better way to explore its secret nooks and crannies than to take one of the many cultural and historical walking tours that the city has to offer. At Dublin Decoded, Arran Henderson provides a wide range of fascinating insights into Dublin’s history, with particular emphasis on its art and architecture. From “How To Read A Painting:symbols and meaning at the National Gallery” to Architecture of Georgian Splendour, and an historic Medieval Treasure Hunt. Alternatively you can talk to him about designing your own tour. See www.dublindecoded.com
When you are visiting IMMA in Kilmainham, you should walk on over to Islandbridge about half a kilometer further on. The gardens there are dedicated to the memory of the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in the 1st World War. The names of all the soldiers are contained in the beautifully illustrated Harry Clarke manuscripts in the granite bookrooms in the gardens. Not merely a place of remembrance, they are also of great architectural interest and beauty. They are one of only four gardens in this country designed by the famous architect Sir Edwin Lutyens (1869-1944). The others being Heywood Gardens, Lambay Island and those in Howth Castle. The sunken rose gardens, herbaceous borders and extensive tree planting on view here make it well worth that extra bit of a walk. Open all year round. 01 475 7816
The National Museum of Ireland
The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. Admission to the museum is free and there are numerous exhibitions, talks and tours. Tel 01 6777444.
Avondale House was the birthplace and home of Charles Stewart Parnell (1846-1891), one of the greatest political leaders of Irish history. Set in a magnificent forest park of over 500 acres, there are tree trails and walks ranging in duration from one to five hours. Visitors are introduced to this wonderful historical house by a specially commissioned audio visual presentation. Other facilities include a licensed café, bookshop, picnic areas, children’s play area, three orienteering courses (maps can be downloaded at www. coillteoutdoors.ie) and a large car/coach park. 0404 46111 www.heritageisland.com
Gallery Zozimus
Gallery Zozimus, art gallery, in the centre of Dublin’s Arts and Antiques Quarter of Francis Street, is ideally situated in the centre of a triangle that comprises Christchurch, St. Patrick’s Cathedral and the Visitor Centre at the Guinness Hop Store. They hold a collection of Paintings, Sculptures in Bronze, Ceramic, Glass and Wood, Photography and more recently have exhibited Street or Urban art.Their’s is the largest Ceramic Gallery in Dublin exhibiting over 75 artists work Their aim is to ensure that you have an exciting array of artworks to choose from so they have created this very special place where you can view a mix of contemporary and traditional works. Gallery Zozimus represents over 120 artists, some well established and some just starting out. Opening hours: Mon - Sat 10.00 – 5.30…. Sunday’s by appointment. TEL: 353 1 4539057. WEB: www.galleryzozimus.ie, info@ galleryzozimus.ie Gallery Zozimus, 56 Francis St, Dublin 8
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International Dublin Gay Theatre Festival
Blazing Change Players By The Bi
N
ow in its twelfth year, the International Dublin Gay Theatre Festival offers a unique take on LGBT culture and is the largest festival of its kind anywhere in the world. Originally founded by Brian Merriman in 2004 to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the birth of Oscar Wilde, this year’s festival runs from 4th to 17th May and features theatre companies from Ireland, the UK, USA, Canada, South Africa, Iceland and Russia, making it a truly international celebration of LGBT theatre and culture. But as Brian explains, the festival isn’t just for the LGBT community, it’s for everybody. “This Festival is for you, about you, your family, friends and communities,” he says. “We are all part of the arts, part of Dublin and part of a new inclusive Ireland. We are staging this diverse programme to dialogue with and to appeal to everyone, regardless of their sexual identity.” There is certainly something for everyone, with an entirely new programme beginning on each Monday of the festival. There will be 10 performances each night in theatres all over Dublin, totalling a staggering 183 performances of 27 plays, music, comedy and dance - a veritable feast for lovers of the arts.
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Acoustical The Musical Tiny Top Hat Productions
Graham J. does Cabaret Some highlights of the festival include; Lady K and Ruby Noir’s Acoustical The Musical, where the duo perform hits from the likes of Hedwig and the Angry Itch and the Rocky Horror Picture Show, I’m Going Through Something which examines LGBT life in Putin’s Russia and Bird, a story about love and self-discovery. There is also Stella Full of Storms, a play about a Wexford teenager named Stella as she falls in love for the first time, and Adam and Eva, a play about Adam, who wants to be a nun, and Eva, who wants to be a boy, and their adventures in Southampton. And these are just some of the fantastic pieces of theatre that will be on offer over the festival fortnight before the event closes with a Gala Awards Night on 17th May. “This is a live theatrical celebration of all the stories that make up Ireland and link us to our international communities. In launching this wonderful diverse programme of accessible theatre, we are confident that once again we have programmed great and unique theatre,” says Brian Merriman. “Festival 2015 presents a great value programme of love, laughter, politics, history, music and dance. It is for everyone to enjoy, but especially you!”
I’m Going Through Something - The Dean Kriel
http://www.gaytheatre.ie/
Tickets are from €10-15 with a new nightly venue ticket of €25 for two plays in the same venue (7.30pm/9.00pm) being launched this year. Matinees are on Bank Holiday Monday (May 4th) and each Saturday (May 9th/16th). Box office opens April 28th from 12 noon to 3pm daily in the Grattan Coffee Shop/Boteca Brazil on 6 Ormond Quay Lower, Dublin 1 (Tel: 0851298158)
Bird - MVD Entertainment
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Theatre
The Abbey Deadly
Paddy Cunneen’s play Deadly tells the story of a young man who is drawn into the clutches of a bloodthirsty gang in a quest for revenge after his friend is stabbed. Before he knows it, a knife is thrust into his hand and his life is changed forever. Originally staged as Fleeto, writer and director Paddy Cunneen has adapted this modern take on a Greek tragedy for the Dublin stage, with the action transported from the streets of Glasgow to the streets of Dublin. Starring Sean Doyle, Joe Hanley, Fionn Walton and Ali White.
The Manhattan Transfer on 2nd May, DIT Traditional Music Ensemble on 8th May, Music of the Night on 11th May, Pierce Turner on 12th May, The Merry Widow by Franz Lehar on 16th, 17th and 19th May and the Dublin International Piano Competition from 23rd to 26th May. Tel: 01 417 0000 Or go to www.nch.ie
The Gaiety The Field
Bray Jazz Festival
Bray Jazz Festival returns to the Mermaid Arts Centre this May Bank Holiday weekend with a stellar lineup. One of America’s hottest young trumpeters Ambrose Akinmusire is set to make his Irish concert debut while a giant of Brazilian soul and RnB, Ed Motta, is also set to appear along with some of the finest talents in Irish contemporary jazz. Tickets for each headline show are €25 or three headline shows for €60. There are also special offers of one headline show and one Town Hall show for €30, one headline show, one Town Hall show and late night Sunday show at Martello for €35.
The Gate
Romeo and Juliet Shakespeare’s timeless tragedy of teenage passions and civil strife comes to The Gate this month. Romeo and Juliet, from two rival families, turn their back on their parent’s ancient feud and embark on a secret love affair, that ignites within them a depth of feeling that explodes in some of the most memorable writing to ever be uttered on stage. With their families at war, the lovers risk everything to be together. Directed by Wayne Jordan, this production of Shakespeare’s immortal tale is not to be missed.
National Concert Hall The National Concert Hall is home to the RTE National Symphony Orchestra, Irish Baroque Orchestra, and the National Chamber Choir of Ireland. But its cultural brief extends across all musical genres from Classical to Irish Trad, to jazz, folk and world music. Highlights this May include Music of Ireland on 1st May, The RTE National Symphony Orchestra performing the works of Tchaikovsky, Mozart, Strauss and Shostakovich on 1st May, 10 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
Tel: 01 6777999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie
Mermaid County Wicklow Arts Centre
11th - 15th May Tel 01 878 722
26th March - 16 May Tel: 01 8744045 / 01 8746042
the story of Scout Finch, a young girl growing up in Maycomb, Alabama in the 1930’s. Scout’s innocence is shattered when her father, the upstanding and moral lawyer Atticus Finch, defends a black man accused of rape. Directed by Timothy Sheader and starring Daniel Betts as Atticus Finch, Zackary Momoh as Tom Robinson and Christopher Akrill as Boo Radley. 4th - 9th May
1st - 3rd May
To mark the 50th anniversary of its first staging, The Gaiety Theatre present a special production of John B. Keane’s The Field. Written by one of Ireland’s best known playwrights, The Field has captivated audiences for half a century with its dark portrayal of life in North Kerry in the late 1950’s. Directed by Padraic McIntyre, who has previously directed productions of The Beauty Queen of Leenane, The Tinker’s Curse and Conversations on a Homecoming, it stars renowned playwright and actor Michael Harding as The Bull McCabe. The production also stars Aidan McArdle as William Dee, Ian Lloyd Anderson as Tadhg and Mark O’Regan as The Bird. 23rd April - 16th May Tel: 0818 719 388
Bord Gais Energy Theatre To Kill A Mockingbird
Harper Lee’s iconic, Pulitzer Prize winning novel To Kill A Mockingbird comes to the Bord Gais Energy Theatre stage this month. The novel, and subsequent Oscar winning film, tells
Other highlights at the Mermaid Arts Centre this month include The April Verch Band on 16th May, Sean AKA Doctor Millar on 15th May, MESH (Dance) on 21st May, Maeve’s House on 22nd and 23rd May and dance theatre Jockey on 28th May. Tel: 01 2724043 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ieTel: 01 2724043 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie
The Sugar Club Big Shot
Before it heads to the San Diego Fringe Festival for a five day slot later in the summer, Big Shot comes to the Sugar Club for a special one off performance. Written by 22 year old Dubliner Lauryn Gaffney, Big Shot tells the story of Jeremy Crocker, a hot shot New York lawyer who falls for an Irish girl named Carrie, a struggling artist who works in Crocker’s favourite cafe. But there’s trouble in store when the romance threatens to derail Jeremy’s career when he takes on a dubious new defence case. With a blend of energetic and poignant songs, Big Shot is a Broadway style musical that is not to be missed. 14th May www.thesugarclub.com
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Recommended Shopping
Kildare Village
every Thursday and Friday.
www.powerscourtcentre.ie
Brown Thomas
Less than an hours drive from Dublin Airport and the city centre, Kildare Village offers a unique shopping experience. One of a collection of nine Chic Outlet Shopping Villages that are situated near major European cities, Kildare Village offers an unrivalled luxury shopping experience. The outlet is characterised by its charming open air setting, welcoming service and luxury brands. There is a calendar of events all year round and you will find massive discounts on world leading brands, with discounts of up to 60% offered on some of the world’s leading brands. Some of the brands that can be found at the outlet include Calvin Klein, DKNY, Clarks, French Connection, Hugo Boss, Karen Millen and Tommy Hilfiger. There are also an excellent range of services offered to shoppers, such as a Tourist Information Centre, Hands Free Shopping, dog kennels, a childrens play area and a Frequent Flyer Programme.
Kilkenny Shop has been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce. There are currently eleven Kilkenny Shops nationwide, including locations in Dublin (3 locations), Meath, Kildare, Tipperary, Cork, Killarney and Galway, as well as two sister Christy’s stores in Killarney and Cobh, Co Cork. You can also shop online at kilkennyshop.com with delivery available nationwide and around the world.
Opening hours: Mon/Tues/Wed/Fri and Sat 8.30am – 7pm Thurs 8.30am – 8pm Sunday 10am – 6pm www.kilkennyshop.com
Powerscourt Centre
www.kildarevillage.com
The Kilkenny Shop
The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium for Irish designed products, from fashion and jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. For over five decades, the 12 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
Located in Dublin’s Creative Quarter on the bustling South William Street is the Powerscourt Centre. Housed in a stunning Georgian townhouse, the Powerscourt Centre has over 40 shops and restaurants and offers shoppers a wonderful city centre shopping experience. The centre offers a range of fashion stores, such as All Saints, French Connection and Mary Grant and if antiques are your thing then the Powerscourt Centre is the place to go. There are a number of antique stores in the centre, including Courtville Antiques, Delphi Antiques, Lilly Fine Art, The Silver Shop and Monte Cristo. If you’re planning a wedding in the near future, the Centre offers a number of superb wedding outlets. There are a range of eclectic restaurants and cafes in the Centre committed to providing fresh, quality cuisine and there are lots of entertaining events on throughout the year, you will even find the centre’s resident pianist playing at lunchtime
If it’s a high end shopping experience that you’re after, then Brown Thomas is the place to go. Brown Thomas offers unrivalled service and a wide range of the world’s leading brands. From the moment you are welcomed into the store by the top-hatted doorman, you will know that you are in for a wonderful shopping experience. There are stores in Cork, Galway and Limerick but the iconic flagship store is situated on Dublin’s main shopping thoroughfare of Grafton Street. In this store you can find some of the world’s finest brands, including Armani, Baker, Chanel, Dior, Elizabeth Arden and Yves Saint Laurent to name just a few. The Dublin store also has a restaurant on the third floor which recently relaunched with a menu inspired by Patrick Guilbaud, a 2 Star Michelin Restaurateur, and Brown’s Bar and Cafe on the first floor. The store offers personal shopping services and an unrivalled range of corporate gifts and there is tax free shopping available for non-EU residents.
www.brownthomas.com
Welcome to Zaragoza, where you’ll find deliciously fresh Mediterranean tapas served with the warmest Irish welcome. A contemporary fusion of modern, authentic cuisine presented in a convivial atmosphere, Zaragoza is not just a place, it’s a destination.
South William Street, Dublin 2 Ph: 01 6794020 Opening hours: Monday - Sunday - 12noon - Midnight (last orders 11pm)
A
udiences are invited to ‘Complete The Story’ at this year’s International Literature Festival in Dublin, which takes place from 16th to 24th May. Now in its 17th year, the Festival is one of the most prestigious in Ireland’s literary calendar and will feature a host of big names taking part in 90 events which will take place in 19 venues over 9 days. Some of the guests from the world of poetry, literature, journalism and beyond include Alexander McCall Smith, Jon Ronson, Irvine Welsh, Anne Enright, Peter Carey, John Grey, Christine Dwyer Hickey, Paul Muldoon, Dermot Bolger, Deirdre Madden, Eoin McNamee and Lisa McInerney. This year’s festival will also mark a number of anniversaries. Fiona Shaw will be among those celebrating the 150th anniversary of Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures In Wonderland while there will be a number of events celebrating the 150th birthday of WB Yeats, inspired by his words “Bodies That Can Never Tire”. There will also be a tribute to the late writer Dermot Healy, with contributions from Martin Hayes, Neil Jordan, Pat McCabe, Anne Haverty and Roddy Doyle. There will be a range of childrens programmes throughout the Festival curated by Sinead Connolly and featuring authors Chris Haughton, Anne Fine, Sarah Ardizzone, Nicola Davies, Bali Rai and Sarah Webb. On top of all this there will be a chance to hear some of Ireland’s most exciting poets in collaboration with Poetry Ireland, discussions on writing about Ireland’s political history with Diarmaid Ferriter and Maurice Walsh, and a chance to hear from great international authors such as Sepideh Jodeyri and Man Booker nominee Alain Mabanckou.
www.ilfdublin.com Tel: +353 (0) 1 687 7977 14 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
Top: Irvine Welsh Bottom L to R: Anne Enright, Paul Muldoon, Yeats
236 Lower rathmines road, dubLin 6 teL: 01-4977057
GROGANS Where time stands still Host to a continuous changing art exhibition
15 South William Street Telephone 677 9320 APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 15
Recommended Restaurants in Leinster
777
7 Castle House, S George’s St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 425 4052 A little pricey for a Mexican restaurant, but well worth it. Beautifully decked out and effortlessly fashionable, you could comfortably skip the main courses and go instead for a selection of starters, which tend to be as generous as they are enticing.
Acapulco Mexican Restaurant
This one star Michelin restaurant is, as they say, reassuringly expensive. Which is only as it should be as the man in charge is Ireland’s finest chef, Kevin Thornton. If you have any intention of cementing a relationship, or of instigating a new one, this is the place to take them.
Yamamori
71-2 S. George’s St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 475 5001
The original Yamamori on George’s Street still serves up the best and simplest Japanese food in Dublin. But Yamamori Sushi, their sushi bar on the quays, runs it a close second. And if you’re looking for something a bit more funky, there’s always Yamamori Izakaya.
The Good World
18 S George’s St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 5373
Above the Fitzwilliam Hotel, Stephen’s Green. Tel: 01 478 7008
www.theblindpig.ie, Tel: 0858747901 reservations@theblindpig.ie
There’s been a huge influx of Chinese in Dublin of late, and the choice of Chinese food in the city has improved no end. But this is still the best place to find dim sum. And significantly, most of the people you’ll find eating here are other Chinese diners.
Super Miss Sue
Drury St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 679 9009 One of the few places to get really great fresh fish in the centre of town, and surprisingly affordable. You can treat yourself to a full meal in the restaurant proper, or a traditional fish and chips of exceptional quality in the diner next door.
Darwin’s Restaurant
80 Aungier St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 475 7511 This family run restaurant caters to all possible tastes, whether carnivorous, coeliac or vegetarian. Their own in house butcher provides them with meats, game and poultry, they have fresh fish and a wide selection of dishes made from locally sourced vegetables. And you can finish it all off 16 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.
The Blind Pig
24-5 Parliament St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 0004
Thornton’s Restaurant
4 Fade St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 604 0066 The latest venture from Dublin’s hottest hipster chef Dylan McGrath, this manages to be both screamingly fashionable and a really good restaurant, without being overpowering. It’s not quite as casual as it would have you believe, but it is really, really good.
37 Parliament St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 670 4961
Ciao Bella Roma
These are the best pizzas you’ll find north of Naples, and are very much of the Neapolitan variety rather than the much thinner Roman sort. And their special lunch deal, which gives you a pizza and glass of wine for around a tenner is not just the best value lunch in town, it’s the best lunch full stop.
Fade Street Social
Café Topolis
7 S George’s St, Dublin 2. Tel 01 677 1085
This lively Mexican Restaurant offers the very best traditional Mexican cuisine, with sizzling fajitas, burritos, tacos and, best of all their famous deep fried icecream!
with their homemade desserts.
Want to know where to find the best cocktails in Dublin? We know the place but you have to keep it secret. The brainchild of award winning mixologist Paul Lambert and named after the police who turned a blind eye to speakeasies in the prohibition era in the US, The Blind Pig is Dublin’s best kept secret and the perfect place to go to enjoy the finest cocktails and the best food that Dublin has to offer. Originally a pop-up speakeasy bar, The Blind Pig is now in permanent residence and has developed a loyal fanbase thanks to the unique experience that this venue offers. So how do you find them? Give them a call, book through their website, and await further instructions.
Recommended Restaurants in Leinster
Le Bon Crubeen
81-2 Talbot St., Dublin 1. tel 01 704 1026
Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value.
Peploe’s
16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2. 01 676 3144
This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It won the Best Value Restaurant Dublin in “The Dubliner” Top 100 restaurants in 2012, having previously won the Irish Restaurant Awards’ Best Casual Dining Restaurant in Dublin in 2010. Value and quality.
Whitefriar Grill
16 Aungier St, Dublin 2. 01 475 9003
Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park.
Zaragoza
18 William St., Dublin 2. 01 6794020
They pride themselves on putting brunch back on the menu, and in producing the best brunch in Dublin. But there’s a lot more than that going on at this superior smart casual restaurant. Their latest Ribs N Rump gives you a 14oz steak and a choice of ribs plus 2 sides for just €40 on Sunday nights.
Kafka Restaurant
236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6. 01 497 7057
of the pier. So you get spectacular views of the sea, as you munch contentedly on creatures that were recently living there. And they’ve a good value early bird menu to take advantage of too.
Chez Max
133 Lower Baggot St, Dublin 2 (01) 661 8899
Feel the spirit of France right here in Dublin! Chez Max Baggot Street is renowned for its outside seating area. There is smart garden at restaurant level as well as sizable terrace on the upper level. The outside areas are well-heated and covered to allow customers to dine outside all year round! In summer diners flock Chez Max baggot Street to enjoy lunch in the sunshine.
Mao’s Restaurant Chatham Row, Dublin 2 01 670 4899
One of the best of the oriental fusion restaurants, there are actually four of them now out in Stillorgan, Dundrum and Dun Laoghaire as well as here in town. Thai and Asian flavoured noodles and rice, they offer an extensive menu at a reasonable price. And the food is top notch.
Zaytoon
14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel. 01 677 3595.
The Spanish city of Zaragoza is any food lover’s idea of paradise. Zaragoza have taken some local delicacies along with some of Spain’s authentic specialties to create a unique dining experience.... seasoned with a generous helping of the homegrown hospitality they are famous for. So come down, sit back and explore the tantalizing recipes created by their chef and enjoy with friends a glass or two of their exquisite handpicked wines. Open Mon-Sun 12noon Midnight (last orders Tel: 01 6794020
Aqua Restaurant 1 West Pier, Howth 01 832 0690
One of the best places to get a bite to eat at the seaside village of Howth, Aqua is at the very end
Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.
APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 17
Recommended Pubs in Leinster
The Stag’s Head 1 Dame Court, Dublin 2 01 679 3687
This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming.
John Kavanagh The Gravediggers
The Gravediggers Hidden away just off of Dame Street, there’s been a tavern here on this corner for over 200 Years. And the Stags has long been a traditional haunt for Trinity students, and for the stars of film and television that they grow up to become. Whilst downstairs you can see comedy on Mondays or Irish Trad at the weekends.
Hourican’s Bar
7 Leeson St Lwr, Dublin 2 01 678 9030
1 Prospect Sq., Dublin 9 01 8307978
“John Kavanagh The Gravediggers, established in 1833 and still run by the Kavanagh Family today. One of Dublin’s finest bars and best pint of Plain. No music no TV, but fine pints and fine food served. Beside the old cemetery gate hence our local name The Gravediggers”
Johnnie Fox’s
Glencullen, Co Dublin. 01 295 5647 Set high up in the heart of the Dublin mountains, Fox’s is an institution. Superb food and a unique atmosphere, there’s Irish trad here every night, and at weekends in the afternoons as well. And there’s a shuttle bus that gets you there and back in 30 minutes for a fiver either way. But be sure to book, as it’s one of the most popular pubs in Leinster.
Situated at the Stephen’s Green end of Leeson Street, this is the perfect place to stop off for a quiet pint before heading off to some of the more glitzier venues in town proper, or on to the rest of the Leeson Street strip.
Grogan’s
15 S William St., Dublin 2 01 677 9320
18 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
Cleere’s Bar and Theatre 28 Parliament St, Kilkenny 056 776 2573
Cleere’s pulls off that rare trick of successfully being two things at the same time. Out the front, it’s a classic, traditional Irish pub. And out back, it’s an exciting theatre that plays host to gigs and plays. And they are as serious about the acts that they allow perform there as they are about keeping the atmosphere exactly the same as it’s always been.
Recommended Pubs in Leinster
The Porterhouse
Temple Bar, 16-8 Parliament St, Dublin 2 01 679 8847
There are three now here in town, but the one on Parliament Street is the best known. part of the increasingly popular micro brewery scene, the Porterhouse produces its own choice of stouts, lagers and craft beers, as well as a choice of others from home and abroad. And they usually have live music playing on the mezzanine.
to be going the way of the dodo.
Sweeney’s Bar 32 dame St, Dublin 2 01 635 0056
One of the more recent additions to the Dublin pub scene, you can get to it either from Dame St or from the back of the Stag’s Head. And once inside, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d strayed into a Spanish or Greek taverna. The place is hopping at weekends with students and hipsters earnestly nodding their heads to the bands who play there. And out back, where Sweeneys meets the Stags is a veritable melting pot come the small hours of the morning.
Slattery’s of Rathmines
217-19 Lower Rathmines Rd, Dublin 6
Doheny & Nesbitt’s 5 Lower Baggot St, Dublin 2 01 676 2945
One of the oldest and more venerable pubs in Dublin, and traditionally the spot where politicians of old would juggle figures before swinging round the corner and into the Dail to present the next budget. It has now been extended both back and up, so that without sacrificing any of its illustrious history, it is now significantly roomier.
JJ Smyth’s
12 Aungier St, Dublin 2 (01) 475 2565
With live music six nights a week, JJ Smyth’s is the home of jazz and blues in Dublin. The family run pub is steeped in history and the welcoming atmosphere keeps the loyal regulars coming back for the finest service and some of the best music that Dublin has to offer. JJ’s started out as a family owned grocery store and public house in the 1730’s and is one of the city’s oldest continuous licensed premises. It was also the birthplace of the famous Irish lyrical poet Thomas Moore, who was born there in 1779. If you love jazz and blues, then you’ll love JJ Smyth’s.
The Liquor Rooms There’s plenty to do in Dublin’s unofficial student quarter, but the only place to go drinking in Rathmines is really here at Slattery’s. No felt, carpet or neon in sight and only the odd television to stain this otherwise classic spit and sawdust pub. Enjoy it while you can as they seem
7 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2 087 339 3688
Situated under the Clarence Hotel on the quays, the Liquors Rooms offer up a heady mix of retro, vintage decor and a smart modern vibe that the too cool for school hipsters find hard to resist. Once you get in, it’s actually a lot bigger than it seems, and there are all sorts of nooks and crannies for you to get up to who knows what kind of mischief.
APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 19
T
he beautiful, historic and diverse county of Wexford boasts 221 kilometres of coastline featuring golden sandy beaches, rocky headlands, cliffs and nature preserves. Wexford’s historic towns offer an unparalleled cultural life and give visitors an insight to the foundation of Ireland’s ancient heritage and traditions. Wexford town was founded over 1,000 years ago and has retained its historic links with its Viking and Norman past. It was those Viking ‘visitors’ who first laid out the narrow and picturesque streets and lanes, which today form a vibrant town centre that has become famous as one of the most attractive towns in Ireland. There is probably no better place to begin exploring in Wexford than with its rich and varied history. Experience a day in the life of ancient Ireland at Ireland’s National Heritage Park. Visit the world’s oldest working lighthouse at the Hook Peninsula, or centuries-old Abbeys, Castles and Forts. With an ancient ruin around every bend on the road, Wexford is the historic gem of Ireland where the foundations of the country’s heritage and culture were formed.
20 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
...visit Wexford
In Wexford, the word “vibrant” only begins to describe the area’s cultural life and contribution to the world of arts with over 40 annual festivals. From May 1 to 4 enjoy JestFest, a weekend of street theatre performances and comedy shows. Maritime Matters takes place at the world’s oldest working lighthouse at Hook Head and in Wexford town there’s ZorroFest, a festival celebrating the Irish roots of the swashbuckling righter of wrongs. From May 21 to 24 the Wexford Food and Wine Festival takes to the streets of the town with a range of culinary delights for all tastes. In June some of the many festivals on offer include the Street Rhythm and Dance Festival and the annual Strawberry Food Festival, both in Enniscorthy, and the Wexford Maritime Festival which celebrates Wexford’s U.S. link as the ancestral home to the ‘Father of the American Navy’ Commodore John Barry. Over July and August visitors are spoiled for choice, from joining an American tea party at the Irish America Day July fourth celebrations in
New Ross, ancestral home of President John F. Kennedy, to tasting the freshest of seafood at this years 30 year old Kilmore Quay Seafood Festival, to joining in at the annual Battle of Vinegar Hill re-enactment or enjoying a ‘paint-out’ at the Art in the Open Festival. Later in the year the multi-award-winning Wexford Festival Opera offers an array of musical treats, in an awe-inspiring venue, which was recently named Ireland’s National Opera House. There is also much for lovers of the outdoors to enjoy in Wexford. From Surfing to Sailing and Fishing to Quad Biking and Archery there is a fun challenge for all enthusiasts. Wexford also offers an expansive Garden Trail with 20 attractions to visit, The Wexford Heritage Trail with 32 historic sites to visit, and the Wexford Walking Trails. The Wexford Craft Trail offers visitors the opportunity to learn how Irish craft is created from one of nineteen expert crafters. The Emigrant Trail offers visitors a unique journey
telling the story of many Irish emigrants and the Kennedy story whilst visiting key heritage sites in the vicinity of New Ross. Wexford has something for everyone and offers a wonderful selection of accommodation, from pretty cottage rentals, bed and breakfasts to top class hotels and a five-star Destination Spa.
www.visitwexford.ie APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 21
E
very pub, art space and coffee shop around the Rathmines and Portobello areas will be taken over by Ireland’s newest music festival, Canalaphonic, on 8th and 9th May. Featuring some of Ireland’s best unsigned and independent acts, Canalaphonic is a free festival that will appeal to the whole family. Some of the acts taking part include The Hot Sprockets, Gavin Glass and the New Shakers, Sinead White, Buffalo Sunn and Corner Boy. On Friday evening and all day Saturday, bands will play on the ‘Making Waves Stage’, a barge at Portobello Harbour. There will be gigs in 22 other venues around the area, with many of the venues being family-friendly alcohol free venues. Lovers of traditional music can head to the second stage at Rathmines Plaza between 12 and 5pm on the Saturday where trad musicians from Ballyfermot College will be playing. There will also be art and craft exhibitions, children’s activity areas, outdoor markets, pop up acoustic sets, drama, comedy and guerilla spoken word sets throughout the duration of the festival. Ireland has a wealth of musical talent and Canalaphonic promises to be the biggest showcase of unsigned and independent acts this year. If you want the chance to spot the next big thing while enjoying a beautiful part of Dublin then Canalaphonic is the place to be.
http://canalaphonic.com/
22 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
Top to Bottom: Gig For Homeless, The Hot Sprockets, Gavin Glass
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APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 23
Su F
O
ver 20,000 visitors are expected to attend the 7th annual Wexford Food and Wine Festival, which takes place from 21st to 25th May. There will be over 20 events in over a dozen locations celebrating the county’s thriving food scene. The Food Producers Market at Selskar Square on South Main Street in Wexford will offer local, regional and Welsh artisan produce and admission is free of charge. The festival will also see the heats for RTE’s “Taste of Success” in Redmond Square on 23rd May. The prize is a guaranteed contract with Lidl Ireland meaning the overall winner’s product will be stocked in over 140 supermarkets all over Ireland so competition is sure to be fierce. The festival will be topped off on Sunday with the inaugural Wexford South Main Ale Trail. This will see Simon Lambert and Sons launch Yellow Belly Beers, their new range of craft beers which are brewed in their own brewery located underneath their establishment. The festival is a must for those who appreciate high quality local food and there will be a wide range of family entertainment on offer including foraging in Curracloe, pop up restaurants and composting and beekeeping workshops.
www.wexfordfoodfestival.ie
24 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
Wexford
Explore this ancient corner of Ireland… on Ireland’s Ancient East Visit some of Ireland’s most historic attractions, adventure across more than 200km of coastline or immerse yourself in Wexford’s natural beauty
www.visitwexford.ie APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 25
Welcome to Munster
M
unster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.
Bunratty Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights
for all to enjoy. One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings Fota Wildlife Park are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral. Contact : Telephone No: 062 61437. E-mail: rockofcashel@opw.ie. County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’ and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity
Limerick and sounds to suit all tastes. County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world. The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week 26 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
Blarney Castle
to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.
R
unning from 27th to 31st May, Listowel Writers’ Week is famous for attracting some of the biggest Irish and international literary names as well as world-renowned celebrities. This year is arguably one of the best and most diverse line-ups in the history of the festival, with an evening with Graham Norton one of the star attractions. Graham is well known as the presenter of his eponymous BBC1 TV show and his BBC Radio 2 show is the highest rated single show in Europe. Graham will discuss his memoir The Life and Loves of a He-Devil with Rick O’Shea, taking the audience on a journey from his Irish childhood through to his massive present day success. Graham will share memories that promise to swing from the tear jerkingly sad to the uproariously funny. The festival will be opened by 2007 Man Booker Prize winner and inaugural Laurette for Irish Fiction Anne Enright.
Top: Graham Norton Bottom Right: In the footsteps of John B. The opening night will see the awarding of writing awards worth a total of €35,000. This includes The Pigott Poetry Prize and The Kerry Group Irish Novel of the Year Award, an award that Anne has previously won herself. Other leading names set to appear include Colm Tóibín, Paul Durcan, Dennis Lehane, Neel Mukherjee and Per Petterson. The festival will present a range of book launches, art exhibitions, bus and walking tours and literary pub trails. The pub trails promise to be drama filled tours of the pubs of Listowel and could even end up in John B. Keane’s pub. Still run by his family, the pub is where Keane wrote all of his famous works, including Big Maggie and Sive. The National Children’s Literary Festival runs at the same time as Writers’ Week with over 30 events to attend, making Listowel Writers’ Week an event that the whole family can enjoy.
http://writersweek.ie/
APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 27
Recommended Pubs in Munster
The Bierhaus Pope’s Quay, Cork 021 455 1648
There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers.
An Brog
72-73 Oliver Plunkett St, Cork 021 4270074
kingdom there, or base themselves there for its duration.
Jack Meades (under the bridge) Dunmore Rd, Waterford 051 850 950
Set on 5 acres of impeccably kept lawns, this sprawling complex boasts a number of bars. The old world bar it has dates back to 1705, whilst its lime kiln and ice house were built around 1860. But there is also a modern bar, and an extensive beer garden looking down over the gardens and streams. And good quality food is served here throughout the day.
Dick Mack’s
Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry 066 915 1960
An Brog has been attending to fans of alternative and indie music for over 20 years now, and they’ve a constantly evolving roster of Djs and live bands catering to all and every musical taste. And best of all, they are open til 2 in the morning, seven days a week.
Buckley’s Bar
The Arbutus Hotel, College St, Killarney, Co Kerry. 064 6631037
Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub.
Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick 061 314 483 (ext 1)
The oak panelled walls and turf fire are the perfect accompaniment to the many musicians who drop in here for the impromptu sessions that seem to be forever going on here. Both bar and hotel have been welcoming visitors since it opened in 1926. And many people either begin their trip around the
28 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May.
Recommended Restaurants in Munster x
The Old Convent
Clogheen, Co Tipperary. Tel: 052 746 5565 Hidden away in the village of Clogheen, with the possible exception of the Cashel Palace, this is the finest restaurant in the whole of county Tipperary. Only one sitting at 8pm, and a set tasting menu at 65 Euro, this is quite simply one of the finest dining experiences in Ireland.
Out of the Blue
Dingle Harbour. Tel: (066) 915 0811
Greg O’Mahonny took over as head chef here in 2010 after spells at some of the best restaurants in Spain and Dublin, including the Mugaritz in San Sebastian and L’Ecrivain in Dublin. And he takes the very best of local Kerry produce and gives them some wonderfully sophisticated flavours.
Isaacs Restaurant
McCurtain St., Cork City. Tel: 021 450 3805 Hidden away in a budget style hotel, Isaacs has always had a reputation with locals for being a considerably better quality restaurant than you might have expected. And as you’d expect, its very reasonably priced too.
The Mustard Seed
Ballingarry, Co Limerick. Tel: 069 68508 About 40 minutes outside of Limerick City, off the Adare road, this is one of those roomy country houses that’s been transformed into a top class hotel and restaurant. One of the finest restaurants in Munster. They serve only only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment.
Ristorante Rossini
33-4 Princess St., Cork City. Tel: 021 427 5818 Antonio Toscano opened this Italian restaurant in the heart of Cork City in 1994, and has always gone out of his way to staff it with his fellow country men and women, from both the North and the South of Italy. And it’s this, together with their extensive menu that makes eating here as close to actually dining in Italy as you could hope to find.
An Canteen
Dykgate St., Dingle. Tel 0866603778
La Bohéme Restaurant & Wine Bar
2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875 645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie
Ballymaloe House
Shanagarry, Co Cork. Tel: 021 4652 531 Myrtle Allen bought Ballymaloe in 1948 and she and her extended families have been entertaining and educating the rest of the country ever since. Not cheap by any stretch of the imagination, but whether dining in the restaurant or staying on the grounds, this is about as luxurious as it gets.
Milesian
Mail St., Castlegregory, Co Kerry Tel: 087 979 4337
Small quaint front room restaurant with locally sourced high quality ingredients making this little gem a must visit when in Dingle. La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City. Hours: Tues - Sat 17:30 until late Open bank holiday Sunday.
Dromoland Castle
Newmarket-on-Fergus, Co Clare Tel: 061 368 144 Quite simply one of the most imposing and impressive castles on these islands, it boasts rooms and a restaurant to match its imperious surroundings.
La Cucina
5 University Court, Castletroy, County Limerick. Tel 061 333980 Simply one of the best places for a pizza in the country.
Fishy Fishy Café
Crowley’s Quay, Kinsale, Co Cork. Tel: 01 470 0415 Kinsale is unquestionably the food capital of Ireland, and this by common consent is one of its finest restaurants. Impeccably fresh fish at reasonable prices.
The Ventry Skipper
Ventry, Co Kerry Tel 066 9159853 This little gem is just what the weary traveller needs after a day of sight seeing-with amazing views accompanied by great seafood and an extensive wine list you really cant go wrong. APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 29
Explore Munster
Cliffs of Moher
Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.
Blarney Castle
The Hunt Museum
The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art. One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore. 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com
Ring of Kerry
The Ring of Kerry ( Irish: Mórchuaird Chiarraí) is not a ring in the conventional sense but a 179-km-long circular tourist route in County Kerry. Clockwise from Killarney it follows the N71 to Kenmare, then the N70 around the Iveragh Peninsula to Killorglin, passing through Sneem, Waterville, Cahersiveen, and Glenbeigh, before returning to Killarney via the N72. The scenery along this route is spectacular to behold and the route takes you through the Gap of Dunloe, the Bog Village, past Rossbeigh Beach, Torc Waterfall, Muckross House, The Blue Pool, Ross Castle, the Ogham Stones, and many more visitor attractions.
Bunratty Castle The Burren
Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. And notwithstanding how impressive an example it is of a medieval castle, this is probably because of the famous stone you will there at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab. Which needless to say they duly receive. 021 438 5252 30 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again. To Begin to discover the secrets of the Burren, a walk through the Burren Centre Exhibition is essential.
Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past. You can explore at your own leisure or join in a guided tour with the experienced guides. At night time the castle is the impressive setting for the medieval castle banquets which are held all year round.
CashmereIreland.com by Sue Designer Knits 20 Henry Street, Kenmare, Ireland Email: info@cashmereireland.com Tel: 064 6648986
French Seafood Restaurant Seaside Views Outdoor Terrace Menu Du Jour A La Carte Available 12am to 9.30pm 20 Henry Street, Kenmare, Ireland Email: info@cashmereireland.com Tel: 064 6648986
ventryskipper@hotmail.com www.theskipperventry.com Ventry Village Dingle Peninsula Co Kerry +353 (0)66 91 59 853 , +353 (0)85 27 87 958
APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 31
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lights on the WaterfordLondon Luton and Birmingham routes have just commenced at Waterford Airport with Belgianbased VLM Airlines. On the London Luton route, VLM Airlines offer a 12 times a week service in each direction with twice-daily flights Monday-Friday, as well as a Saturday and a Sunday service. On the Birmingham route, VLM offer a four times a week service in each direction with flights operating on
32 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays. VLM Airlines has flown in Europe since 1993 with its first service on the Antwerp-London City route. Previously named Regional Airline of the Year, VLM Airlines currently operates a range of passenger services at Antwerp, Rotterdam and Liege to Avignon, Bologna, Geneva, Hamburg, Nice and Venice. Waterford Airport offer a convenient and hassle-free option for passengers, including a friendly and easy check-in
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Visitors can enjoy pop-up dinner on Saturday 16th from Belfast’s OX restaurant in the Catering School and brunch by Honey & Co. on Saturday and Mark Hix on Sunday in Ballymaloe House. On top of these main events, the Big Shed will host a programme of great free events including food markets, children’s activities, craft stalls, live music and much more. With equal time billing given to chefs, drinks experts, writers and food producers, there’s a whole host of delectable delights to take in at this year’s Kerrygold Ballymaloe Literary Festival.
www.litfest.ie
S
umptuous food, fine wine and the wonderful written word will all be celebrated in east Cork from 15th to 17th May at the third annual Kerrygold Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine. Taking place in the beautiful settings of Ballymaloe House, Ballymaloe Cookery School, the Grainstore and the Big Shed, some stellar names from the culinary world are set to attend this year’s festival. Two of the biggest names in attendance will be Alice Waters, American culinary pioneer and author of ‘The Art of Simple Food’ and ‘40 Years of Chez Panisse: The Power of Gathering’, and April Bloomfield, superstar chef from New York’s Michelin-starred The Spotted Pig, as well as The Breslin, The John Dory Oyster Bar and Salvation Taco. April is also the author of the cookbook/memoir ‘A Girl and Her Pig’ and has recently released her new book ‘A Girl and Her Greens’.
There will also be appearances from Sam and Sam Clark of Moro and Morito tapas bar, drinks writer David Broom, master of wine Janis Robinson, mixology legend Nick Strangeway, Jack Monroe of A Girl Called Jack, and David Tanis, author of ‘A Platter of Figs and Other Recipes’, which was named by the Guardian/Observer as one of the 50 best cookbooks ever.
34 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
Top Left: The Big Shed Left: “Beer in a wine writer’s glass” with some of Ireland’s best known wine writers each giving a talk and tasting on beer. Right: Rachel Allen, Darina Allen, David Kirby and Rory O’Connell
APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 35
W
riters of all levels and abilities as well as lovers of literature are sure to find something to love about the Waterford Writers Weekend. Events run for four days all across Waterford city from 7 to 10 May. The festival evolved from the Sean Dunne Writers Festival and celebrates creativity of all ages. Sean Dunne was a prominent poet from Waterford and to mark twenty years since his passing there will be a number of events to commemorate him over the course of the weekend. These will include readings of his work by poets and family members, as well as a screening of Words into Silence, a documentary about his life, which will be shown in Greyfriars Gallery on Thursday 7 May. There will also be a dance performance inspired by Dunne’s poetry and a conversation with his contemporaries and friends, which will feature Peter Fallon, Thomas McCarthy and Harry Flynn. Throughout the weekend there will be a range of workshops aimed at beginning and
36 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
advanced writers as well as young people who wish to enter the exciting world of writing. Vanessa O’Rourke, the founder of www. writing.ie will present a workshop that will tell you all that you need to know about getting published, while Karen Power will tell the story of how she self-published her incredibly successful novel Butterfly Barn. Local writer K.S. Moore will present a flash fiction workshop and Niall Williams, the Man Booker longlisted author, will present an advanced writing workshop in the Coastguard Cultural Centre in Tramore. Children and teenagers can learn from the wisdom and experience of bestselling and award winning children’s and teenage authors such as David McNiven, Sarah Webb and Sheena Wilkinson, who will all be running workshops over the course of the weekend. There will also be an evening with Róisín Ingle and Natasha Fennell, who will tell Orla Shanaghy the story of how their book The Daughterhood came into being. From a call out in Róisín’s Irish Times column to an impromptu monthly self-help club, The Daughterhood is a funny, poignant and
occasionally heart-breaking tale that will strike a chord with mothers and daughters the world over. “We are very much looking forward to the 2015 festival which will include something for everyone and for all ages; from best selling local authors to authors of international acclaim including Niall Williams, Donal Ryan, Mary Costello, Sarah Webb and Sheila Wilkinson,” says Jane Cantwell, Waterford City and County Librarian. “There will be an opportunity to hear first hand from these successful authors.” Whether you’re someone with a burning ambition to write, have a masterpiece gathering dust with no idea how to get it out into the world, or you just wish to get into the mind of some of the best contemporary writers around, Waterford Writers Weekend will have something for you.
www.waterfordwritersweekend.ie Festival Box Office, 23 Lady Lane, Mon – Fri, 11am - 5pm Tel: 051 856516.
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Welcome To Connaught
Ancient stone walls in the Aran Islands
T
he province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran
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Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht. The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. Connaught has some of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the film ‘The Quiet The Claddagh by night Man ‘ was filmed, and the natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a must for all. For those interested in a religious experience Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist
are reputed to have appeared. The apparition was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged from six years to seventy-five and included men, women and children. The shrine has become so popular in modern times that the Ireland West International Airport was built especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to Connaught. The county also features the pilgrimage site known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to the present day without interruption. Croagh Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom of trekking up the mountain has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside with magnificent views of Clew Bay beneath. So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught has it all.
The 6th annual Gospel Rising Music Festival will take place in Ennis, County Clare, from 8th to 10th May 2015. Choirs from all around Ireland and beyond will perform in venues throughout the Clare County capital, while leading Irish and international choral experts will facilitate workshops in gospel music, performance and singing for choir and non-choir members. This year’s Gospel Rising Music Festival is hosted by The Really Truly Joyful Ennis Gospel Choir, and is supported by the Shannon Region Conference and Sports Bureau.
I
reland’s biggest gospel music festival, Gospel Rising Music Festival, returns to Ennis in County Clare from 8th to 10th May. The first festival was held in Ennis in 2010 and has since grown following stagings in Limerick, Bray and Portlaoise over the last five years. Choirs from all over Ireland and beyond will perform in venues across the town over the course of the weekend and this festival is a must for lovers of gospel music. This year’s festival is hosted by The Really Truly Joyful Ennis Gospel Choir and is supported by Failte Ireland and the Shannon Region Conference and Sports Bureau. As well as the numerous performances from a wide range of gospel choirs, there will also be a number of workshops, where
leading Irish and international choral experts will share their expertise in gospel music and performance with both choir and nonchoir members. Some of the facilitators taking part in this year’s workshops include Bazil Meade (founder of the world famous London Community Gospel Choir), Karen Gibson (one of the UK’s most respected gospel tutors), Kathleen Turner (singer/ songwriter and vocal tutor at the Irish World Academy of Music and Dance) and Aisling McKenna (Soloist and member of the Gardiner Street Gospel Choir and Valley Gospel Singers). With such great line up, there’s no better place to have your spirits soar and your heart lifted than Gospel Rising this May.
www.gospelrising.com
Shannon & Gardiner St Gospel Choirs perform as part of RTEs Religious service on Bray Bandstand during the Gospel Rising Music Festival.
Explore Connaught
Kylemore Abbey
Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic walled garden. The castle was bought by the Benedictine nuns in 1920. The Victorian walled garden was re-opened in 1999 and won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food. This is a gem and should definitely be at the top of any visitors list.
Glencar Waterfall
Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. As you reach Glencar which straddles the border between counties Sligo and Leitrim with its dramatic steep cliffs, you will notice a series of waterfalls cascading from the heights. Glencar waterfall is perhaps the most dramatic, descending from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.
Inishbofin Island
Inishbofin (island of the white cow) is situated seven miles off the Galway coastline and is an extremely popular tourist attraction.The island is 5.7km by 4km, and has three official looped walks of varying difficulties, each offering spectacular views of the island’s wild Atlantic scenery. The island also has several safe, award winning sandy beaches, and its clear waters make swimming, snorkelling and diving a joy. Two of the beaches on Inishbofin have been awarded the ‘Green Coast Award’, prized for their exceptional water quality and their natural, unspoilt environment.
Croagh Patrick
Connemara
Mullaghmore
Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Indeed, on 8 March 2012, surfers and windsurfers from all over the world rode waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable. And it is overlooked by the majestic Ben Bulbin mountain.
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Connemara is one of God’s gifts to this world with unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the North through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean. Connemara’s land boundary with the rest of County Galway is marked by the Invermore River which flows into the north of Kilkieran Bay.
Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside. You get spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding Mayo countryside from all stages as you climb. Widely considered the holiest mountain in Ireland, pilgrimages date all the way back to the time of the pagans, when people are thought to have gathered here to celebrate the beginning of harvest season. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year. 098 64114
The Lady Sligo Letters:
Westport House and the Great Hunger
Westport House
‘The ghastly smile which momentarily played on the countenances of these living skeletons’ James Hack Tuke.
T
he Great Hunger, The Famine, as it is known in Ireland, was a period of mass starvation, disease and emigration in Ireland between 1845 and 1852 resulting in the deaths of more than a million people and emigration of 1.5 million to North America and other countries. The letters of Hester Catherine Browne, second marchioness of Sligo, or Lady Sligo, tell the remarkable story of how her family responded to the catastrophe of the Great Hunger. Lady Sligo, who lived from 1800 to 1878, was the wife of Howe Peter Browne, the second Marquess of Sligo. The Brownes were members of the landed gentry, Ireland’s upper class. The family owned Westport House, a beautiful home in a poor area of County Mayo in the West of Ireland. They were the largest landowners in County Mayo with thousands of tenants living on their estates. As her husband’s health declined, Lady Sligo took over the day to day running of the Westport House working closely with George Hildebrand, the steward of the estate. When her 25 year old son, George John Browne, inherited the estate in 1845, Lady Sligo supported him through the difficult years of the Great Hunger.
Unlike many landlords, the third marquess assisted his poor tenants and spoke out against the harsh policies of the British government. The family borrowed money in order to help their tenants. About a third of Lady Sligo’s 200 letters relate to the Great Hunger period and detail her correspondence with Hildebrand. This Exhibition, based on the letters of Lady Sligo, tells the remarkable story of how one family, who were Protestants and members of the landed gentry, responded to the catastrophe of the famine years. The exhibition is on show in Westport House in Co. Mayo, Ireland. The partnership of Academic Advisor, Professor Christine Kinealy, Director of Ireland’s Great Hunger Institute at the Quinnipiac University in CT, USA, and the Browne family and team at Westport House have made this exhibition a reality. The Brownes, amazingly, continue to own the house and nowadays it is open as a visitor attraction welcoming 140,000 visitors each year. The beautiful historic house is the jewel in the crown and you can also enjoy a children’s adventure park with rides and activities for under twelve year olds or adventure activities such as
zorbing and high ropes, attend a big outdoor event or music concert in the grounds or pitch your tent or caravan in the onsite park. www.WestportHouse.ie www.quinnipiaqc.edu/great-hunger-institute Hester Catherine Browne
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Recommended Pubs in Connaught
Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons) 17 Cross st, Galway 091 568 820
Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.
The Quays
11 Quay St, Galway 091 568 347
Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now!
Furey’s Pub Bridge St, Sligo 087 958 3080
Furey’s is located in the centre of Sligo, and is your no nonsense, strictly Irish trad music only, Irish pub. And they are as keen on real beer as they are on serious music, offering up an impressive choice craft beers.
Bosh Bar and Restaurant Don’t be put off by the reams of tourists that flock here all year round, there’s a reason that this pub enjoys such a lofty reputation. It looks and feels exactly like an Irish pub should. And be sure to check out the back of the pub which has been decked out with stained glass and wooden pews borrowed from a Medieval French church!
Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo 094 925 0534
Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar.
Roísín Dubh
Matt Malloy’s
Lower Dominick St., Galway 091 586 540
Bridge St., Westport 098 26655
It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ
This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within.
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Recommended Restaurants in Connaught
Kai Café
Sea Rd. Galway city. 091 526 003
Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West.
The Cottage Restaurant Jamestown, Co. Leitrim. 071 962 5933
Head chef Sham Hanifa’s sauces are so well regarded, you can buy jars of them to take away with you after your meal. Originally from Malaysia, he’s been here in Leitrim for over 14 years and applies his culinary skills to the local Irish produce that are native to the West.
Ashford Castle
Cong, Co. Mayo. 094 954 6003 Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906.
Upstairs @ West Restaurant The Twelve, Barna, Galway city. 091 597000 David and Jessica Murphy’s restaurant in the heart of Galway has justly won a mountain of awards over the last couple of years, including Restaurant of the Year in 2012. Of the many, many who sing its praises, John McKenna wrote, “It’s vital food, packed with good energy, and it lifts you up to eat it because it’s so simple and elemental.”
Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit.
Waterfront House Restaurant Enniscrone, County Sligo. 096 37120
Eala Bhán
Rockwood Parade, Sligo town. 071 914 5823
If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell.
The Yew Tree Restaurant
Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon. 090 666 1255 Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food.
An Port Mór Restaurant
1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo. 098 26730
The Waterfront House Restaurant boasts one of the most outstanding sea views in Ireland. You can wine, dine and relax as you peer out over the 5km beach overlooking Killala Bay. Since it opened in 2011 the Seaview Restaurant and Wine Bar have become popular with locals and visitors alike. Fresh Seafood is a specialty. APRIL 2015-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 43
Welcome to Ulster
Marble Arch Caves
T
he Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland. County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise.
is the most notable. The famous mountains or ‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland. Giants Causeway
Malin Head
County Donegal is in the northwest of the Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly 44 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-APRIL 2015
County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well. Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the new
Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.
Belfast City Hall
You complete the story
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Ulster Recommended Pubs
The Crown Liquor Saloon 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast 028 9024 3187
Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin.
White’s Tavern
2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast 028 9024 3080 Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down.
Kelly’s Cellars 30-32 Bank St, Belfast 028 9024 6058
Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food.
The John Hewitt 51 Donegall St., Belfast 028 9023 3768
This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city.
The Duke Of York 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast 028 9024 1062
One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and
whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further.
Peadar O’Donnell’s 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry 028 7126 7295
There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore. Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry.
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Recommended Restaurants in Ulster
Ox
1 Oxford St, Belfast. 0044 28 9031 4121 Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.
spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.
The Ginger Bistro
7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast. 0044 28 9031 1150 Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining
7-8 Hope St, Belfast. 0044 28 9024 4421
55 Degrees North
1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim. 0044 28 7082 2811
experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.
This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers.
Vanilla Restaurant
The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger.
Deane’s Restaurant
36-40 Howard St, Belfast. 0044 28 9033 1134
67 Main St, Newcastle. 0044 28 4372 2268
Shu
253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast. 0044 28 9038 1655 They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table.
Telfords Restaurant
Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.
5 Donegall Quay, Belfast. 0044 28 9043 4000 Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.
Lough Erne Resort
Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh. 0044 28 6632 3230
Sun Kee Restaurant
42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast. 0044 28 9031 2016 One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years. Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics.
Lusty Beg
Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh. 0044 28 6863 3300
This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most
This island spa is set on a 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.
Sakura, 82 Botanic Av, Belfast
0044 28 9043 9590 In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant.
Speranza Restaurant, 16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast 044 28 9023 0213 Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.
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Donegal H
op into the car and follow the Wild Atlantic Way touring route to Donegal’s hidden gems of amazing holiday experiences, colourful people and outstanding natural beauty. Nestling as it does on the most north westerly point of the island of Ireland this county is rich in beaches,glens and mountains not to mention a people whose friendliness and Cead mile Failte (one hundred thousand welcomes) is legendary. Here are some of the outstanding attractions that make this county unique.
museum,which provides a thought-provoking look at the area from the tragedy of the Famine in the 1840s up to the present day.
Sliabh Liag
Drink in the best views in Europe
Malin Head
Dip into history or look up at the night sky from Ireland’s most northernly point A narrow road twists steeply up from Teelin to the dramatic Slieve Liag cliffs and mountains. From the viewing point, you look across one of the finest panoramas in Europe that will set your heart racing. The nearby cultural centre, Tí Linn, is run by Paddy Clarke, a rich source of information on the area and its archaeological heritage.
Golden sandy beaches and rolling farmland threaded by narrow roads set the scene in the secluded Fanad peninsula squeezed in between Lough Swilly and Mulroy Bay and leading to remote Fanad Head. Families can enjoy a day of watersports at picture-postcard resorts such as Rathmullan or Portsalon. Take your pick from spinning for mackerel off a pier, learning to fly-fish for rainbow trout, hire a pedalo or paddle a kayak. If you are feeling energetic, why not saddle up and gallop along the shores of Lough Swilly on the pristine Rathmullan Strand. As you drive around this thrilling peninsula be prepared for delays on single track roads; your path may be blocked by a herd of heifers and you will be reduced to cow-speed; don’t forget you are in north Donegal where the motto festina lente ‘hurry slowly’ applies and where life moves at an easy pace.
An Grianán Aileach Awaken your mystical spirit
Fanad Head
Hire a pedalo at Portsalon Catch a cloudless evening and you may be enchanted by a night sky display of the Aurora Borealis, the Northern Lights. The celestial light show, with its ghostly wispy rays of dancing colours has been seen hanging like a fluorescent curtain over Malin Head – what better reason to go than to witness this astonishing sight. As you make your way around the 100-mile circuit of the scenic Inishowen peninsula. Those with an interest in military history will want to see Fort Dunree Military Museum near Buncrana. Further along,you will find Doagh Famine Village, an outdoor
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Perched 800 ft. above sea level, on a spectacular hilltop in Inishowen, the Grianán of Aileach fort is a former home of the Irish High Kings. Sweeping views take in patchwork fields and lakes as well as the wider hilly countryside. At the nearby Old Church Visitor Centre you can enjoy the latest multimedia technological exhibits surrounding the mythical Tuatha De Danann Race of Gods and Warriors.
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Jewel of the Wild Atlantic Way
Glenveagh National Park Look out for golden eagles
The largest tract of land in the wildest part of Donegal, Glenveagh National Park incorporates moorland, mountain, lakes and woods within its 40,000 acres of wilderness. You may be lucky enough to catch sight of soaring golden eagles which have been reintroduced into the area or chance upon a shy red deer.
Donegal Garden Trail Donegal’s exposed coastline is home to many unusual plant species at over twenty gardens public and private - dotted along the coast.
Surfing in Bundoran Ride the Waves
as the top spot by the black-clad brigade, it is a place where wave-riding runs deep in the veins of some locals’ blood. Set against a backdrop of dramatic scenery and beaches, the reefs around Bundoran are world renowned, producing the optimal wave size. Donegal Adventure Centre in Bundoran -– the largest of its kind in Ireland – provides expert tuition from qualified instructors in the tricky art of staying up on your board. If you are new to surfing, a good place for beginners is Rossnowlagh, a few miles north.
Golfing
Outdoor tonic As a golf tourism destination, Donegal with premium seaside courses takes some beating. Many championship 18-hole courses are set in areas of natural beauty and Bundoran Golf Club, founded in 1894, co-hosts the West Coast Challenge each year. During the 1950s it was the home of the ‘Master Golfer’ Christy O’Connor Senior. At Murvagh, on the shores of Donegal Bay, Donegal Golf Club was named by Golf World as one of Ireland’s top 10 club.. With one of the longest courses in Europe, it suits the big hitters. In the north of the county, Ballyliffin Golf Club has two fine championship links and comprises 365 acres of dune land. In 2006 Sir Nick Faldo re-designed the Old Links course.
Glencolumbcille Folk Village Museum In the south of the county, Bundoran has become the unrivalled gung-ho centre of surf culture hosting world class competitions. Regarded
There are few better places better to delve into the past than at Glencolumbcille Folk Village. This clachan, or village, comprises eight thatched, whitewashed cottages showcasing three specific
years of Irish culture: 1720, 1820 and 1920. New exhibitions house a fisherman’s cottage and a traditional pub-grocery and shoemaker’s shop. Potter around this reflective place and you will find a sweat house (an early Irish sauna) replica lime kilns and mass rocks.
Rory Gallagher Festival Ballyshannon in Donegal is the birthplace of legendary guitarist Rory Gallagher and the home of the Rory Gallagher Festival, which takes place from 28th to 31st May. The festival has been running since 2002 and was named Irish Festival of the Year in 2010, 2011 and 2012 for festivals with attendances between 10,000 and 30,000 visitors. This year’s festival will be extra special as it will mark 20 years since Gallagher’s passing. There will be over 30 acts performing on 15 stages across the town, with 25 hours of free open air concerts and pub gigs. There will also be a range of gigs at the Festival Big Top over the four days of the festival. Some of the acts set to appear this year include Uli Jon Roth, Band of Friends, Wilko Johnson and His Band, Bernie Marsden Band, Pat McManus Band, Johnny Gallagher and Boxtie, Sinner Boy and Dave McHugh Band.
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Explore Ulster
Titanic Belfast
Since it opened in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, and over a million visitors went through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six story building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the very site where the famous ship was first built. Once you enter the building proper, you’re introduced to the building’s giant atrium surrounded by the four “ships”, hull shaped wings which act as the beginning of the Titanic experience. Your journey will then take you through the building’s nine galleries, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end. The story is brought up to the present with the discovery of the wreck, and into the future with live links to contemporary undersea exploration. And the galleries employ a variety of interactive media including CGI, film, audio, artefacts and full-scale replicas. Not only that, there’s an actual ride through the Titanic giving you a view of how the ship was physically put together. Tel 028 9076 6386
The Giant’s Causeway
The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast north of the town of Bushmills. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to the East to take on a giant who lived over there. Voted by BBC Radio listeners as the fourth greatest natural wonder in the UK, visitors flock here from all over the world to marvel at one of Europe’s most magnificent coastlines and its unique rock formations, which have stood as a natural rampart against the unbridled ferocity of Atlantic storms for millions of years. The rugged symmetry of the columns never fails to intrigue and inspire people. And to stroll along the Giants Causeway is to voyage back in time. In 1986 they opened the Giants Causeway Visitors centre, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its coveted list of sites, which are of exceptional interest and universal value. And the National Trust which oversees the Causeway provides the half million tourists who go there every year with any and all the information that they might need.
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The Old Bushmills Distillery In 1608, King James I of England granted Sir Thomas Phillipps a license to distil whiskey, and Bushmills became the first ever distillery in the world to begin officially producing it. “Whiskey” with an “e” is Irish by the way, and without is Scotch. And the word itself originated from the Irish word for water, “uisce”. Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness. In 2008, Bushmills celebrated the 400th anniversary of their original licence to distil whiskey. They marked the occasion with the release of a limited edition Irish whiskey of exceptional smoothness, Bushmills 1608. Today Bushmills Irish Whiskey is owned by Diageo, and over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens. Tel 028 2073 3218
Ulster American Folk Park
Situated at the base of the Sperrin mountain range just 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories. Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier. Meet an array of costumed characters on your way with traditional crafts to show, tales to tell and food to share. And you can also avail of the facilities at the residential centre and museum restaurant. They offer an array of ensuite rooms, and dorms that sleep up to 7 in bunk beds, with linen, laundry and drier rooms, plus kitchens, bathrooms, and TV, DVD and games rooms. Museum: +44 (0) 28 8224 3292 Residential centre: +44 (0)28 8224 0918
Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence Take the time to enjoy our magical CASTLE GARDENS
Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday- Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie